Simple Workbench Plans

With this workbench plan even a beginner can build a workbench strong
enough to hold a V-8 engine!

Video: How to Build a Mit

Saw Table

How to Build a M

Overview: Design and

materials
Does your current workbench consis
two sawhorses and an old door slab?
Well, my friend, it’s time to upgrade.
Use this simple workbench plan to build a sturdy, tough workbench that'll last for There are hundreds of workbench pl
decades. It has drawers and shelves for tool storage. It's inexpensive. And even a
novice can build it in one day. out there, but not many of them call f
plywood. Plywood makes a flat, stab
By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine
work surface, and it doesn’t need to
clamped, glued or planed. And it can
TIME easily be replaced if it gets too beate
One day
after years of abuse. If the idea of
building drawers makes you break in
COMPLEXITY cold sweat, then build your workbenc
Simple
with two shelf sections and forget ab
the drawers. But if your mantra is, “T
COST more storage the better,” then get
$20 – $100
yourself an additional half sheet eac
3/4-in. and 1/4-in. plywood, and build
another two drawer sections to take the place of the lower shelf.

Simple, Sturdy Workbench

You get a workbench plan that’s:

Simple enough to build on a Saturday

Easy enough for a beginner
Strong enough to hold a V-8
Tough enough to last a lifetime

Simple Workbench Components

4 legs, 2 boxes and a top: That’s all there is to this workshop bench. The legs are
just 2x4s screwed together. The shelf and work surface could be constructed as
simple boxes or made with drawer components. It’s a perfect project for a beginner
but a great bench for even the most advanced DIYer.
Step 1: Cut out the workbench parts
Photo 1: Cut plywood
parts perfectly
straight

Cut the shelf top first and

use the factory-cut edge
as a guide for your other
cuts. Measure the
distance between the
saw blade and the edge
of the saw base plate,
and align the shelf top
that same distance away
from your cutting line.

It’s always nice to cut as many parts as possible before starting the assembly. That way, you can set aside the dust mask, sa
glasses and hearing protection for longer periods of time, and the air isn’t continually filled with sawdust. Cut everything exce
the lengths of the drawer components. In case things get a little out of whack during assembly, you’ll be able to measure and
the drawers to the actual openings.

Mark the cutting lines for your big sheets with a chalk line. Use a framing square to mark the lines for the smaller componen
but don’t forget that the blade will remove about 1/8 in. on every pass, so either add that space when you’re marking, or mar
and cut one at a time.
Start with the shelf top (C). Cut the whole length of the plywood. You’ll have to freehand this one, but don’t worry if your cut i
perfect. The cut edge will be down low and backed up against the wall. Use the factory edge of the shelf top as a guide to cu
three other larger pieces (A, B, D; Photo 1). Think you might have trouble lugging around full sheets of plywood? Some hom
centers will cut them up for you if you ask.

After cutting the big parts to length, you’ll have some medium-size chunks of plywood you can use as a guide to cut the sma
components, or you can clamp down your framing square as a guide. Next, cut the 2×4 legs (L). You can get two legs out of
each 8-ft. 2×4 with about a 2-ft. piece left over. Set aside the remaining four 2-ft. pieces for use later. Cut the 2x4s that make
the shelf and drawer compartment frames (M—Q), starting with the long boards first.

Workbench Plans

For the names of the parts and their dimensions, see the Cutting List in “Additional
Information” below. You can download and enlarge Fig. A Simple Workbench in
“Additional Information” below.

The Cutting Diagram shows how to cut one sheet of 3/4-in. plywood. The second
3/4-in. sheet is much simpler: just cut lengthwise to yield parts C and D. Cut the
drawer bottoms (J and K) from a 4 x 4-ft. sheet of 1/4-in. plywood.

You can download and enlarge the Cutting Diagram in “Additional Information”
below.

Step 2: Assemble the shelf section and drawer section

 Photo 2: Frame the
drawer compartment

Drill 1/8-in. pilot holes

through the frame back
and into the plywood
drawer dividers. If you
skip this step, you’re
guaranteed to split the
plywood.

Use the benchtop (D) as a temporary workbench (if you don’t have a door slab). Join the 2×4 frame with one 3-in. screw in t
middle of each corner. This will reduce the chances that screws will collide when you attach the legs. Secure the plywood sh
the frame using 1-5/8- in. screws about 12 in. apart. Use glue on every joint except the top sheet of plywood—you may want
replace it someday.

Assemble the three 2x4s that make up the drawer compartment frame (M, N) with one 3-in. screw at both corners. Center th
first drawer divider (E). Install the other two dividers 11-1/8-in. on-center on either side of the first. Driving screws into the en
grain of plywood can cause it to split. You can avoid this by predrilling holes with a 1/8-in. drill bit. Attach the plywood drawer
dividers to the frame using two 3-in. screws in each one (Photo 2).

Lay the drawer compartment bottom (B) on top of the frame, and mark lines on the front of the plywood to line up the front o
drawer dividers. Then mark lines across the top of the plywood for the location of the screws. Clamp the box down with the
drawer dividers aligned, then predrill holes for the dividers (Photo 3). You can often eliminate small warps and bows in the
plywood by starting at one end and working your way down the line. Screw the plywood down with 1-5/8- in. screws. Space
screws about 12 in. apart the long way and 8 in. the short.

Before you repeat the process to attach the top of the drawer compartment, install screen mold on each end of the drawer
compartment with 3d 1-1/4-in. brad nails. This will help the outside drawers slide in straight once the legs are installed.

Step 3: Attach the legs and shelf

 Photo 4: Screw on the
legs

Square up one side of

the leg and fasten it with
one screw, then square
up the other side of the
leg and fasten with two
screws. Double-check
the first side before
driving in the final screw.

Preassemble the legs with three 3-in. screws in each leg. Flip the drawer box upside down. Position the legs so the seams a
facing the ends of the workbench. Secure the legs with two 3-in. screws on each side of each leg. Use a framing square as
guide (Photo 4). Next, cut the four 2x4s you have left over from the legs to 16 in., and use them as temporary spacers for th
shelf. Secure the shelf to the legs with two 3-in. screws on each side (Photo 5).

Step 4: Install the top and trim molding

Photo 6: Cover the

plywood ends with
screen mold

Nail on the screen mold

with 1-1/4-in. brads. Start
with the long sections
first, and use the scraps
on the shorter ones.

Before you screw down the benchtop, predrill holes for the screw eyes that will act as drawer stops. Drill two 3/32-in. holes f
each drawer opening, 2 in. in from the sides and 1-1/2 in. from the front (see Figure A). Align the benchtop flush with the bac
legs and even on each side. Secure it with a row of 1-1/4-in. screws down the front, back and middle, spaced about every 16
Again, you’ll have more luck getting a flatter surface for your workshop bench by starting at one end and working your way d
the line.

Attach the screen mold to the end grain of the plywood. Don’t worry about the back side if your bench is going to sit against
wall. Nail on the screen mold pieces with 1-1/4-in. brads (Photo 6).

Step 5: Build the drawers

Photo 7: Build simple

drawers

Glue and clamp the front,

back and sides together
first. Then nail on the
bottom. Finally, nail the
sides to the front and
back.

Double-check the sizes of your drawer openings, and cut each drawer bottom width 1/4 in. smaller than its opening. Cut the
sides of the drawers (F) so they will be exposed at the front. This won’t look as nice, but it will make the drawer front stronge
and keep it from pulling off after you fill the drawer with heavy tools and hardware.

Glue and clamp the drawer sides together, but before you nail them, attach the bottom with 1-1/4-in. brads. Remove one cla
and set the drawer on edge with the other clamp hanging off the side of the workbench. Nail each corner together with three
1/4-in. brads. Remove the other clamp, and nail the remaining two corners together. Work fast so the glue doesn’t set up be
you get it all put together. Repeat the process for the other three drawers (Photo 7).

Step 6: Apply the finish

It’s hard to stain plywood without its looking blotchy, so after sanding down the rough and sharp edges, we finished our
workbench with Minwax PolyShade, a combination stain and polyurethane. It can be brushed on like regular polyurethane b
adds a little color in the process. We did one coat on the whole workshop bench and then added a couple more coats of reg
polyurethane to the work surfaces. Apply an extra coat or two to the bottom of the legs so they won’t wick up moisture from y
garage floor.