Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
City
SAPIENS: A Methodology
for Understanding
Cooking
Culture
Creativity Gastronomy. First explanation
Design
Environment
Decoding
Method
(work in progress)
Food Being as it is an everyday activity closely linked to our senses,
Process
Food designing
our appreciation of gastronomy is largely based on the
satisfaction and the pleasure it provides us, on subjective
Food product
considerations according to which we simply like what we have
Food safety eaten to a greater or lesser degree. In other words, besides
Health considering its objective values, creative contributions, novelties,
Intelligent labels and understanding its professionalism or savoir faire, its special
gustatory combinations, we take for granted that the criterion
of personal taste is the most important factor.
Packaging
Printed food
Ferran Adrià Josep Maria Pinto Arranging for Understanding ery as it is told in compilations and surveys by an-
When elBullirestaurante became elBullifoundation thropologists, archaeologists and historians; indirect
Products on 30 July 2011, one of our first intentions was to sources that describe everything related to cooking
Project “Arranging and understanding further our work classifying cookery in order to
come up with a methodology that would enable
before the invention of the printing press. Indeed,
up until the fourteenth century there are no books
Proteins the past is essential in order us to completely decode and arrange our gastro- that reveal the work of cooks, their recipes or any
nomic knowledge. Starting from the fact that our conception of cookery that stems from the contents
Refuse to move forward. Order is first purpose was to get to know and understand our and classification of their works. The second starting
discipline in order to educate and innovate, when point therefore is found in recipe books and thematic
Senses
the fundamental premise for it comes to judging the main contributions to gas- works drawn up by cooks and other agents to plainly
Society
understanding what we are tronomy over time, we soon realise the significant describe their cookery or their knowledge of specific
Sociocultural absence of data and of a unified taxonomy in the gastronomic aspects. A look at the contents and in-
Strategy
talking about and for working history of gastronomy informing of its characteris- dexes of these books reveals that no consensus has
tics and its evolution, as a result of which objectivity existed to codify cookery, and no agreement has been
Technology efficiently” is impossible. reached by the various agents. Gastronomic knowl-
Urban agriculture
So, in order to devise this decoding we decided to edge may abound yet it is quite heterogeneous.
Ferran Adrià has been chef and co-owner of elBulli
restaurant until 2011. In 2011 creates the elBulli
begin by studying how cookery had been classified So why is it necessary to classify this knowledge?
Urban design
Foundation and in 2014 opened the elBulli LAB, and over the course of history, i.e. whether it had been Why is this classification so important?
Urbanism
develops the gastronomy process decoding. Doctor subjected to any systematic coding. By coding we Arranging and understanding the past is essential
Honoris Causa from the University of Barcelona,
mean an agreed arrangement or logical classification in order to move forward. Order is the fundamental
Waste and Aberdeen University.
of all gastronomic elements. premise for understanding what we are talking about
Waste of resources Josep Maria Pinto is a freelancer in the field of The evolution of gastronomy may be studied from and for working efficiently. Confused knowledge hin-
writing and editing. Since 1985 carries out two starting points. The first is the history of cook- ders efficiency, preventing and a comprehensive under-
writing and translation in the publishing world.
He collaborates with Ferran Adrià since 1997, with
whom he has prepared the texts of all the books
of elBulli.
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31 ELISAVA Temes de Disseny Ferran Adrià - Josep Maria Pinto SAPIENS: A Methodology for Understanding Gastronomy
standing of the structures, processes and relationships discipline can be decoded to a great extent through tell us what has taken place in the story and how at different levels, ranging from the most general
of disciplines. Order is essential, especially for formu- these processes, moving from more to less, from the plot has developed, for which we need an evolu- (gastronomy in its broadest sense) to the most con-
lating complex ideas and tackling difficult processes. maximum to minimum, from general to concrete – tionary analysis that will contextualise each finding, crete (avant-garde restaurants, a chef ’s particular
Ordering means taking decisions, trying to un- a company, a service, a concept, a specific product. each contribution, that will be set within a specific style or a specific preparation).
derstand how the different elements of disciplines For instance, we may decode the processes involved time frame. For a start, it is a matter of knowing how to pose
are grouped together. Ordering implies reflecting, in mobile phone engineering as a discipline, but The understanding gleaned from processes and the right questions for identifying the processes of
grouping, classifying, distinguishing, establishing we may also decide to decode the processes of the from evolutionary analysis will then allow us to apply the discipline.
families—in short, forming categories that will al- Apple company, of the iPhone concept or even of a Sapiens in two main areas: education and innovation.
low us to understand the processes that define dis- specific generation of iPhone. In this sense, the cre- — Do we understand what we’re doing? We then go
ciplines. Ordering is a way of encouraging chaotic ative, productive, experiential and commercial pro- – Education: understanding a discipline will help us on to decode the reproductive process of gastron-
states that favour the flow of creativity. The Sapiens cesses of iPhone1, which were essentially disruptive, improve the quality of its teaching thanks to the omy in restaurants.
methodology is the tool that enables us to tackle have little in common with the more evolutionary creation of didactic material, a new propaedeutics
our objective of understanding gastronomy so as to processes of subsequent generations of iPhones. To that will structure curricula. — Why do we do it? We reflect on our degree of in-
create in different ways. In other words, we want to give another example, we may decode the processes volvement in our activity.
understand in order to create again. involved in the making of champagne in general, or – Innovation: understanding a discipline and what
those of a certain producer, Dom Pérignon, or even it has in common with others as regards pro- — What was the origin of gastronomic restau-
that of a specific vintage year. cesses will lead to creative solutions that imply a rants? What was the origin of gastronomy? We
The Sapiens Methodology Studying a discipline’s processes can be an ab- development from the point of view of creativity. study the reasons that triggered the appearance
We firmly believe that to maintain effectiveness and solutely boundless, infinite task—the fascination for In other words, in this case Sapiens is used as a of our discipline.
efficiency in the fields of innovation and education diversity. The processes involved in the making of creative technique.
it is absolutely necessary to understand the differ- a large-scale painting will necessarily differ from — When did our discipline emerge? We study the
ent stages of disciplines, and have therefore devel- those required to make a small painting or a series “Creating isn’t reproducing; origins of gastronomy.
oped a methodology that helps us decode the most of paintings. Those that are involved in filmmaking
important processes involved. Although our main can diverge considerably in the case of a commer- the action of the cook — How do we create? We decode our own creative
purpose is to decode and understand the genome cial blockbuster, an animated film or an educational doesn’t match the process and that of professional gastronomy in
of gastronomy, Sapiens hopes to use it to decode documentary. When we speak of disciplines in the general.
all other creative disciplines. This is why Elisava, in field of science we start from a common methodol-
perception of the diner.
collaboration with elBulliLab, is decoding design ogy, the scientific method, but even so the processes The processes must be — How is what we create and reproduce perceived?
following the parameters outlined in this text. involved in the work of biologists and physicists are the backbone of the entire We examine the perceptions and reactions of din-
To begin with it is indispensable to ascertain the completely different. ers and decode the experiential process.
questions raised by the discipline, which will enable Processes can be produced more or less simulta- discourse”
us to understand it: the what, how, when, where, who, neously. In performance art, for instance, experiences — How is it produced? We examine and apply the
for what and why of all its processes, how they are can be created, produced and perceived in parallel. decoding of professional gastronomy in the pro-
contextualised and how they interact. We call this A painting can be conceived and made at one and The Sapiens Methodology Applied cess of traditional reproduction.
methodology Sapiens. the same time, and experienced later. A menu can be to Gastronomy in Restaurants
created in one phase, produced in another and ex- We have already pointed out that our first intention — Where did gastronomy first appear? We study
perienced in a yet another. In the case of a complex was to apply the Sapiens methodology to gastronomy, the places in which it emerged and developed.
The Processes film production, successive processes can develop in and more specifically to gastronomy in restaurants,
The answers to the previous questions reveal that several phases. i.e. the professional restaurant industry that stems — Who has been or is still influential in our dis-
there are thousands of processes (that can vary The decoding of processes is the first premise for from the tradition of culinary art and therefore at- cipline? We study the past development and the
greatly according to the discipline in question), each approaching a discipline, for it helps us understand taches importance to the gastronomic element. As present of gastronomy in restaurants.
one of which brings its defining elements into play. A it as it is produced, as it works, although it doesn’t mentioned, the Sapiens methodology can be applied
12 13
31 ELISAVA Temes de Disseny
CONDICIONANTES CONDICIONANTES
AGRICULTORES
GANADEROS
PROFESIONALES PERSONALES
PROCESO AGRICULTORES
PESCADORES ... GANADEROS
GASTRONÓMICO PESCADORES ...
MENTAL Y EMOCIONAL
ELABORACIÓN QUE SE
PRODUCTORES CONVIERTE EN UN
The answers to these questions enable us to iden- Creative Process Traditional Gastronomic Experiential Process
PRODUCTO ELABORADO
TECNOLOGÍA PARA
PREELABORACIONES
BÚSQUEDA PROPIA
EN LA NATURALEZA
Reproduction Process
PROVEEDORES DIRECTOS PROVEEDORES DIRECTOS
GASTRONÓMICO
of gastronomic reproduction, FÍSICO
is the creative process, which during which what has been who receive the result of PRODUCTOS
ELABORADOS
PRODUCTOS NO
ELABORADOS
PRIMARIOS DERIVADOS
cesses must be the backbone of the entire discourse. we must learn in order to created is prepared. All those previous processes and SECUNDARIOS
TERCIARIOS
PRODUCTOS
improve creative efficiency. consequently have certain
TECNOLOGÍA PARA
PREELABORACIONES
They are so closely related that the connections that who reproduce do not
CUATERNARIOS
processes.
HUMANOS
RECURSOS
to follow a number of steps
ACTITUDES
Actors to reach a result that can ELABORACIONES
INTELIGENCIA Y TALENTO
ELABORACIONES
Actors
CAPACIDADES
ments shaping each of the processes, which we shall Creative personality CONTEXT -Personal determinants ELABORACIONES
PLURALES
PERSONALIDAD
ELABORACIONES QUE FORMAN
PARTE DE OTRA ELABORACIÓN ELABORACIONES FINALES
QUE FORMAN PARTE DE LO QUE
CONOCIMIENTO
RECURSOS
-Emotions and feelings -Personal determinants Personality
SE OFRECERÁ O CONSERVARÁ
ECONÓMICOS
ESTRATEGIA
RECURSOS
HÁBITOS
HERRAMIENTAS DE
PRESENTACIÓN
-Intelligence and talent, culture -Professional determinants -Attitudes, abilities, habits, ELABORACIONES CONSERVADAS TECNOLOGÍA
DE EMPLATADO
Creative personality
VIRUTES Y DEFECTOS
-Emociones y sentimientos
DE CONSERVACIÓN
FILOSOFIA
Resources -Attitudes, abilities, habits, -Emotions and feelings TRASLADO DE LAS
MAPA DEL PROCESO CREATIVO Extrinsic to gastronomy virtues and/or faults -Intelligence and talent, culture ESPACIO DONDE
TECNOLOGÍA DE
ACONDICIONAMIENTO
ELABORACIONES A LA SALA
EMOCIONES Y SENTIMIENTOS
-Human resources -Intelligence and talent, culture ACTORES
REPETICIÓN DEL
PROCESO CULINARIO
ACTOR/ES
C O N T E XTO C R E AT I V O
CONDICIONANTES QUE MARCAN -Recursos organizativos Extrinsic to experience TECNOLOGÍA
DE EMPLATADO
ORGANIZATIVOS
EL PROCESO CREATIVO
RECURSOS
CONDICIONANTES CONDICIONANTES ELABORACIONES QUE SE SIRVEN ELABORACIONES QUE SE SIRVEN
V O
TI
PROFESIONALES PERSONALES (SIN INTERVECIÓN DE OTROS ACTORES) (CON INTERVECIÓN DE OTROS ACTORES)
EA CO
CE
SO
CR
AC
TIT
N
TE
XT
O
Intrinsic to gastronomy Extrinsic to gastronomy and -Organisational resources
- Products
UD
O
creativity
PR
ES
EL
L
DE
PR
OC
TO
ACTORES
INVESTIGACIÓN
ES
CR
CO
EA
E CON TECNOLOGÍA DE
ENT SCI
TI
SERVICIO DE BEBIDAS
SCI
ACTORES
ON TE
INC
IN
TE
LO
O
LI
OBJETOS DE APOYO
SR
CA
LAS ELABORACIONES
EA
TECNOLOGÍA DE SERVICIO,
EC
PA
ATENCIÓN Y EXPLICACIÓN
NC
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OC
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C
IA
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SO
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TECNOLOGÍA DE
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DEGUSTACIÓN
AL
LA
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S
AC
EN
PER
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PA
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PERD S
ALID
TÉC
- Products
EVOL
DE
REPETICIÓN DEL
C R E AT
CT Ú A N E N TRE S Í . Y H A C E N Q U E
DORES / DESBLOQUEADORES
CREA
PROCESO CULINARIO
ONALIDAD CREATIVA
CULTUR
A Y CONOCIMIENTO
ELABORACIONES QUE SE
DEGUSTAN
CONSUMO DE LAS ELABORACIONES CONSUMO DE LAS ELABORACIONES
AR
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CE
N QU
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ARA
VIR
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v. 1.1 14/11/2014
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EA
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31 ELISAVA Temes de Disseny Ferran Adrià - Josep Maria Pinto SAPIENS: A Methodology for Understanding Gastronomy
CONDICIONANTES DE LA DISCIPLINA RECURSOS FINANCIEROS CONDICIONES SEGÚN ORGANIZACIÓN QUIÉN REALIZA LA CAMPAÑA DE COMUNICACIÓN ALCANCE DE LA COMUNICACIÓN TIPO DE CLIENTE DESTINATARIO IMAGEN QUE SE DESEA COMUNICAR PRODUCTO QUE SE DESEA COMUNICAR DURACIÓN DE LA CAMPAÑA SOPORTE
CONDICIONANTES
INICIO DEL PROCESO DISEÑO DE CAMPAÑA PRODUCCIÓN LANZAMIENTO TOMA DE CONTACTO DESPLAZAMIENTO CONSUMO CONTROL I AUDITORIA INFORME FINAL
DE EJECUCIÓN AL LOCAL
PROCESO CREATIVO
PROCESO REPRODUCTIVO
PROCESO EXPERIENCIAL
16 17
Creative analysis
Physical and historic context
Creative analysis map in Western gastronomy -Climate
MAPA ANÀLISI CREATIU A OCCIDENT -Model of society
-Type of diet
MAPA ANÀLISI CREATIU A OCCIDENT -Beliefs and religions
-Discoveries and colonisations
-Revolutions and wars
ACTORES Actors
-Types of agent
ORGANIZACIÓN Y GESTIÓN -Personal determinants
-Professional determinants
Resources intrinsic to
CONTENIDOS GENERADOS creativity (creative process
only)
ACTIVIDADES CONSECUENCIALES -Creative techniques
-Control techniques
-Creative recording techniques
-3.000.000
1.000 -2.000.000
1.100 -1.000.000
1.300 -100.000
-Creative tools
1.500 -10.000
-3.000
1.700 -2.000
1.750 -1.000
1.000
1.100
1.200
1.300
1.400
1.500
1.600
1.700
1.750
1.800
1.850
1.900
1.910
1.920
1.930
1.940
1.950
1.955
1.960
1.965
1.970
1.975
1.980
1.985
1.990
1.995
2.000
2.005
2.010
2.015
1.850 -900
-800
1.900 -700
1.910 -600
1.930 -500
1.940 -400
-300
1.950 -200
1.955 -100
1.980 200
1.985 300
1.990 400
1.995 500
2.000 600
2.005 700
2.010 800
2.015 900
1.965 0
1.200
1.400
1.600
1.800
1.920
1.960
1.970
PHASES / STAGES
-400
-300
-200
-100
200
300
400
500
600
700
800
900
Arte culinario en la Edad Media hasta 1370 Arte culinario Arte culinario Arte culinario en la corte
Edad de oro de la cocina clásica
Egipto (3.200 - 30 a.C.)
Nouvelle cuisine (1968-actualidad)
-Intermediate preparation
en la Edad Media del Renacimiento y cuisine bourgeoise (s. XVII - XVIII)
europea a partir
de 1370
(s. XV - XVI)
Culturas del Indio (2.500 - 1.800 a.C.)
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31 ELISAVA Temes de Disseny Ferran Adrià - Josep Maria Pinto SAPIENS: A Methodology for Understanding Gastronomy
The evolutionary analysis of the history the elements that enable us to assign each creation If nouvelle cuisine stood for the emancipation of tronomic delight and satisfaction has unfolded
of cuisine and professional gastronomy its true value and contextualise it within the history chefs from the conservative recipe books of cuisine ‘without restaurants’. We should therefore be able
In order to understand our discipline in its entirety it of the discipline. after Escoffier, in recent years the perspective that to imagine gastronomy without restaurants, and in
is essential that we introduce a new parameter: chro- This new situation highlights a change of para- has acquired maximum prominence is that of an- this sense increasingly original formats will con-
nology. To place in the history of gastronomy each digm, revealed thanks to this desire to understand other agent: the diner. The experiential process has tinue to emerge.
new creation, each of the events that have shaped its and classify. This broader and more global approach broadened his possibilities, weaving connections Gastronomy without restaurants, but what about
evolution, provides the time dimension we need for has provided completely new viewpoints of various with the gastronomic process as a whole. For a start, gastronomy without tastes? Certainly. Whenever
the global understanding of gastronomy. To study the aspects of the gastronomic phenomenon. Here are the analysis of the process reveals that the role of we watch television programmes on cooking, read
subject, not only must we go back to the ages prior to some examples. the diner is no longer simply that of a passive sub- blogs on cookery criticism, use gastronomic portals
the establishment of restaurants in the late eighteenth ject undergoing an experience, but also that of an or apps on the subject, or when we visit exhibitions
century 1 but back to the first human activities related “When we speak of agent who cooks, i.e. someone whose decisions are on chefs we are consuming gastronomy.
to food. In fact, we have realised that in order to fully disciplines in the field not influenced by the chef and yet exert an influ- From the point of view of knowledge, the possi-
understand our discipline we must contextualise it ence on the end result, the meal he will consume. bilities provided by the digital world and the Inter-
within the history of humanity and the development of science we start from a Choosing dishes from a menu is a decision, as is or- net are boundless and offer us new ways of access-
of disciplines. Furthermore, if we don’t understand common methodology, the dering the desired cooking point for meat, or ask- ing and classifying this information. Curating and
the processes we will be unable to analyse the history. ing to be served a salad without one or more of its classifying this knowledge following the Sapiens
Studying the history of gastronomy obliges us scientific method, but even ingredients. At the table, numerous situations can methodology, which, as we have pointed out, can
to redefine the taxonomy drawn up for the pro- so the processes involved arise in which the diner’s decisions are absolutely be used in education and in innovation, will extend
cesses, as many of its elements are transversal. The determinant for the outcome: the cooking time of its influence to chefs, restaurant professionals and
discovery of America and thus of its products, for
in the work of biologists meat and the accompanying sauce in a fondue, the diners, who now consume gastronomy fully aware
instance, influenced the creative, reproductive and and physicists are completely way in which he spreads tomato on a piece of bread of what they are experiencing. As we are not facing
experiential processes. The history of cuisine and different” and how much olive oil he will add to it, whether a future projection but a reality, we can no longer
of professional gastronomy must bear in mind the he will eat the cured ham together with the bread understand gastronomy without this knowledge of
following items: or separately, etc. The examples are countless. Even its history, of its processes and characteristics.
If creativity has always played a key role in the in avant-garde gastronomy, where there seems to be
history of cooking, to date this creativity and the less margin for choice, the diner can complete dishes,
Conclusions creative process per se had hardly been propounded. decide the proportions or the order in which he will
One of the transformations gradually produced by The analysis and knowledge of the different ele- combine the products and preparations that make up
the realm of gastronomy that was sparked by the ments that come together in the creative process has a dish, whether he will take one mouthful or two, etc.
culinary revolution in Spain was the possibility of enabled this decoding, that results in greater effi- Awareness of this reality will necessarily alter our un-
judging gastronomic creations following purely ob- ciency, effectiveness and creative longevity. derstanding of the gastronomic phenomenon.
jective criteria instead of the subjective taste of the Having defined the taxonomies to which we now The concept of restaurant can be legitimately called
agents receiving the offers. In this sense, contempo- apply the Sapiens methodology we have acquired a into question. Even though the term ‘gastronomy’ has
rary cuisine represents or decidedly hopes to rep- new vision of gastronomy. A whole series of ques- only been in use for about a couple of centuries,2 the
resent the age of objectivity, knowledge and order, tions are slowly explained, clarifying the previously gastronomic attitude can be traced back to the age of
unknown role played by each element in the gastro- civilisations at the very least. Even so, the first gas-
nomic process. Is wine a product? A preparation? A tronomic restaurant is barely two hundred years
beverage? Is a sauce a use or a preparation? Can we old, which means that most of the history of gas-
1 In spite of certain precedents, such as the establishment
founded by Boulanger in Paris in 1765, whose importance consider cocktails and snacks as dishes? Why do we
in the history of the restaurant industry is a central object usually classify them as such? What’s the difference
of study and discussion, there is general agreement in
considering the Grande Taverne de Londres, opened in between a prepared product and a preparation? 2 The term gastronomie first appeared in 1801 in a poem by
1782 in the same city by Antoine Beauvilliers, chef to the Joseph Berchoux, but was popularised in 1826 following
Count of Provence (future King Louis XVIII), as the first the publication of La Physiologie du Goût by Jean
grand restaurant. Anthelme Brillat-Savarin.
20 21