Beginning Leatherworking Class PDF

BEGINNING LEATHERWORKING CLASS
6 Lessons Beginner Level
Learn the the fundamental skills you need to start working with leather by making a simple, useful
wallet! In this class you’ll be introduced to a wide range of leatherworking techniques, tools and
materials and then shown how to apply them to a design. Working with beautiful pre-dyed chrome
tanned leather, we'll start from the basics and use our skills to create something you can use
everyday.
Our lessons will cover skills like cutting leather, punching holes, gouging, folding, riveting, and
snaps. We’ll also learn about the different types of leather, and how to shop for what you need.
By the end of this class you’ll have all the skills and tools you need to start creating your own
beautiful leatherwork. And if you want to keep building your skills by learning techniques like
sewing, gluing, and making leather patterns, you can move on to my free Intermediate
Leatherworking Class (https://www.instructables.com/class/Intermediate-Leatherworking-Class/)
when you're done!
Enter an Instructables Contest!
If you've used the skills you've learned in this class to write a great instructable, try entering it in
one of our Contests (https://www.instructables.com/contest/) for a chance to win some amazing
prizes!
Class Author:
MikaelaHolmes (/member/MikaelaHolmes/)
Mikaela is a costume and experimental fashion designer and artist, who has done her best to make playing dress-up into a
career. She has trained in both the costume and fashion design industries, and works with all kinds of materials and techniques
including leather, fabric, LEDs, fiber optics, sewing, painting, sculpture, laser cutting and 3D printing. She spends most of her
time figuring out how to fuse traditional design and leatherwork with simple wearable tech to create clothing and accessories that
turn her into a time traveling cyborg superhero!
She is a former Artist in Residence at the Autodesk Pier 9 workshop, and currently an in-house content creator for the
Instructables Design Studio.
Beginning Leatherworking Class: Page 1

Lessons
Lesson 1: Leather Tools and Supplies

This lesson is where you'll find links to all the tools and materials you
need for this class, as well as brief discussions of what each tool is
used for, and info about choosing leather and leather history.
Everything you need to get started!
Lesson 2: Simple Leather Wallet: Layout and Trace

Learn the best way to transfer patterns onto leather, then get your
hands dirty by tracing a simple wallet pattern using an awl.
Lesson 3: Cutting Leather

Cutting leather is one of the most important and fundamental leather
skills you need to master. We'll talk about a few different tools and
methods for cutting, then apply them by cutting out our wallet pattern.
Lesson 4: Gouging and Folding Leather

Learn techniques for folding leather using an adjustable V-gouge and
a mallet. Apply your skills by creating folded flaps in our wallet design.
Lesson 5: Leather Hardware: Rivets

Rivets are one of the simplest and most effective methods of leather
joinery. We'll learn about hole punching and rivet setting, and then use
rivets to assemble our wallet.
Lesson 6: Leather Hardware: Snaps

Learn how to add simple closures to leather projects using snaps. In
this lesson we'll talk about choosing the right snaps and how to set
them, then we'll finish our wallet by adding a snap.

LESSON 1: LEATHER TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
Here are all the tools you'll need for the specific kind of leatherwork we will be doing in this class. I'll show
you how to use a few more optional tools along the way as well, but there are a few basics that you will
definitely need to get started. You can buy your tools individually, or you can also choose to buy a
leatherworking tool kit (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AQHGX5W/?tag=instructabl09-20). I'll talk more
about each tool and material specifically in a minute.
Essential Tools for this Class:
X-acto knife (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KRSWM6/?tag=instructabl09-20) or Industrial knife

(http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/industrial-knife-handle-w-two-blades)
Shears or strong sharp scissors (http://www.amazon.com/dp/94467097J/?tag=instructabl09-20)
Adjustable V-gouge (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WJ2VOB6/?tag=instructabl09-20)
Manual punches (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F27AMI/?tag=instructabl09-20), or rotary punch

(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0048F247A/?tag=instructabl09-20)
Awl (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036LNXEA/?tag=instructabl09-20)
Mallet (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OV97X0Q/?tag=instructabl09-20) (wooden, plastic or rawhide)
Quartz slab (http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/deluxe-quartz-slab-12-x-12) and poundo board

(http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/poundo-boards) or heavy wooden cutting board
Cutting mat (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025189VE/?tag=instructabl09-20) (or other appropriate large cutting

surface you don't mind damaging)
Line 20 snap setter (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003A64ASE/?tag=instructabl09-20 B0178ZZP5O)
Rivet setter (http://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Factory-Rivet-Setter/dp/B003ABGIWK/ref=sr_1_3?s=arts-
crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1459837199&sr=1-3&keywords=rapid+rivet+setter)
(http://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Factory-Rivet-Setter/dp/B003ABGIWK/ref=sr_1_3?s=arts-
crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1459837199&sr=1-3&keywords=rapid+rivet+setter)Hammer
(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002X1X5/?tag=instructabl09-20)
Wire cutters (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/?tag=instructabl09-20)
Clear 18" x 2" ruler (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YQMCJM/?tag=instructabl09-20)

Metal ruler (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IXKD9U/?tag=instructabl09-20)
Pencils (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M8UJL82/?tag=instructabl09-20)
Thin cardboard scraps
Sponges or rags
Scotch tape (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009F3P3U/?tag=instructabl09-20)

A printer or access to a place to print the pattern file
Clamps or binder clips (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B011R7E06E/?tag=instructabl09-20)
Materials
Stiff 4-6 oz leather - at least a 12" square

Line 20 snaps (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ABEIS6/?tag=instructabl09-20)
Small rapid rivets (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQ7DR0M/?tag=instructabl09-20)

Know Your Tools
There are many online resources for buying leather and leather tools, and depending on where you live,
you may even have a local leather supplier. There are a surprising 108 Tandy Leather
(https://www.tandyleather.com/en/) stores located across North America, and quite a few local independent
stores as well. Leatherworking requires some initial investment in tools, there's just no getting around it.
Here's some information about each of the basic tools we'll be using. To see some of the more specialized
tools, check out the Leatherworking Encyclopedia (https://www.instructables.com/lesson/Leatherworking-
Encyclopedia/) at the end of this class.
(http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/industrial-knife-handle-w-two-blades)X-Acto Knife - a cheap and

easy to use leather cutting tool, great for details but not as good for cutting very thick leather. Make sure
you have a lot of extra blades.

Leather Shears - I prefer these semi-serrated Olfa shears for cutting leather. They always stay sharp and
are great for cutting out small patterns in thin to medium leather.
Cutting Wheel - a good way to cut long straight lines in leather when used with a metal ruler and a cutting
board, not an essential tool, but great for cutting straps.

Cutting Mat - a self healing cutting mat or another smooth, damageable, surface with some give is
essential for cutting leather.
Adjustable V-Gouge - carves variable depth grooves for creating clean folds in leather. A very important
tool, make sure you get one of these.
Mallets - for stamping, setting snaps, and using manual punches, you always want to use a mallet, not a
hammer. Leather mallets come in rawhide, wood or poly, and come in different weights. A medium weight
mallet is a good all around choice

Hammer - sometimes you do need a metal hammer for leatherwork though, folding, setting rivets etc, it's a
good idea to have one around.
Mini Anvil - as useful as it is adorable, a mini anvil gives you a stable hard surface when you need one,
helping you punch holes and set snaps and rivets in awkward places.
Quartz - a smooth solid base for stamping and punching. If you don't want to spend the money to get one
of these a salvaged paving stone, slab of hardwood or steel will work too.
Poundoboard - a plastic slab like a cutting board that goes over your quartz slab so your tools aren't
deformed or dulled during punching and stamping
Rotary Punch - easily punches different sized holes in leather without having to use a hammer and a
punching surface, but can't punch more than a few inches in from an edge.
Manual Punches - individual punches that create holes when hit with a mallet on a punching surface. Not
as convenient to use as a rotary punch, but they can make holes in hard to reach places and come in more
sizes. Sets with interchangeable heads are the most economical.
Awls - poking and scratching tools for creating small holes and marking leather. I mostly use them to
punch sewing holes, or trace the outlines of patterns onto leather.
Rivets - simple two part metal fasteners used to join layers of leather together. Available in different sizes
and finished. Some varieties can simply be set with a hammer, others require specialized setting tools.

Rivet Setter - tool use to set certain types of rivets, usually two metal parts used with a mallet.
Snaps - Simple metal closures that are set into leather much like rivets. Snaps consist of 4 parts: the cap
and the socket, and the post and the stud, and each pair it attached using a specialized setting tool.

Snap Setter - tool used to set the halves of a snap together, usually two metal parts used with a mallet.

What We're Making
In this class we'll be making a very simple project: a leather wallet assembled with rivets and snaps. I'll
give you a pattern for this project, but you will also have some creative license to make your piece unique.
You will be able to choose the color and finish of the leather you use for your wallet, and the metal finish of
the snaps and rivets.
We'll be constructing out design using a type of leather called chrome tanned leather. Chrome tanning is a
modern manufacturing process that produces fully finished leather (we'll talk more about how this type of
leather is created and used later in this lesson). Chrome tanned is by far the most common type of leather,
and working with it is a great way to be introduced to leatherwork because you don't have to worry about
dyeing and sealing. Just choose a beautiful pre-finished piece of leather and use methods like cutting,
gouging, folding, and riveting, to create an amazing project. Once you've been introduced to these skills,
you'll be ready to tackle some even more advanced techniques.
This same pattern could easily be made using veg tanned leather if you wanted to tackle some more
advanced leatherworking techniques like tooling and dying, but I won't be covering those techniques in this
class. To learn more about working with veg tanned leather, you can check out my DIY Millennium Falcon
Purse (https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Millennium-Falcon-Purse/), How to Be an Elf
(https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-be-an-Elf/), and Sculpted Leather Tech Cases
(https://www.instructables.com/id/Sculpted-Leather-Tech-Cases/) Instructables.

Materials for Your Project
Hardware: one line 20 snap (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ABEIS6/?tag=instructabl09-20), and 6 small

rapid rivets (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQ7DR0M/?tag=instructabl09-20) in the finish of your choice
Leather: a piece of stiff 5-7 oz leather at least 12" x 24".A cowhide like this thin latigo
(https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/latigo-sides-burgundy) (in the 5-7oz thickness) is a good choice.

Setting Up a Leather Workstation
Finding a good area to do your leatherwork will really help you have a productive creative experience.
Having a dedicated space that you don't have to set-up and clean-up every time is ideal, but not always
possible.
What you will definitely need is a sturdy, well lit surface with enough space to fit at least an 18" x 24"
cutting mat. Butcher blocks, work benches, sturdy desks and even kitchen countertops all work well,
rickety tables will just be frustrating! In a pinch, the floor can work as a base for cutting, punching and
pounding... though your downstairs neighbors may not approve ;)
Having a tool box to organize your leather tools is very helpful, and, if you're like me, keeping your
hardware in clear plastic divider cases is essential for your sanity. A different compartment for every size
and color of rivet!? Yes please!
You will be creating some leather and paper scraps as you go, so it's good to have a garbage can nearby
to help keep your space clean, but don't throw away too many of your scraps! Leather is expensive and
sometimes small scraps can really come in handy.

Some Leather History
Leather has been a part of human culture since pre-history. As a byproduct of hunting, animal hides were
most likely the first material used to protect our distant ancestors from the elements as garments, footwear
and shelter. Almost any animal hide can be turned into leather, including even the skin of some fish! The
most common animals used for leather are usually large mammals, often the herbivores we are already
hunting or raising for meat like cows, sheep, deer, or buffalo.
Unfortunately, raw animal hides will just rot or harden if left untreated, so early craftsman had to find a way
to keep the hides soft and pliable by treating, or tanning, them with natural chemicals from the
environment. Interestingly enough, some of the best compounds for tanning animal hides turned out to be
other parts of the animals themselves, such as fat, bone marrow, brain and urine!
Leather was important in both Egyptian and Roman culture where more advanced methods of tanning
using oils, minerals, and plant extracts had been discovered. There are paintings in some Egyptian tombs
that depict leather manufacturing, and intact pieces of leather have been found buried with the pharaohs. In
Rome, tanning was efficient and widespread enough that that even the common people, not just the rich,
could afford to buy leather. In fact, a version of the high laced leather sandal worn by Roman senators is
still part of our modern fashion repertoire today!
Photo by Daderot (Own work) [CC0], via Wikimedia Commons
In Europe, from the 14th - 18th centuries tanning was a skilled craft controlled by guilds, but working as a
tanner was still a brutal, smelly job that required a lot of manual labor. In the late 1700s, tanning began to
develop into a more large scale manufacturing operation, but it wasn't until the discovery of the chrome
tanning method in 1858 that the industry really changed.
Photo by Anonymous artist - http://www.digibib.tu-bs.de/?docid=00000286, (http://www.digibib.tu-bs.de/?

docid=00000286,) Public Domain
Chrome tanning, which is a mineral tanning method that uses chrome salts as the main tanning agent,
reduced tanning time from 8 weeks to a few hours! This radical discovery along with the development of
new machinery for processing leather quickly put most small independent tanneries out of business and
turned tanning into big time manufacturing.
Old methods of tanning are preserved in places like Morocco where tanners still use things like municipal
waste water, lyme, and pigeon dung to tan hides, and extracts from plants like henna, mint, indigo, and
poppy to create beautiful bright dyes.

By Bernard Gagnon (Own work) [GFDL Donar Reiskoffer [GFDL (http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html)
(http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html)
The tradition of of leatherwork in North America is to a large extent tied to the culture of the American
West. Leather was a vital material for pioneers, cattle-herders and Native Americans alike, who often lived
far from a source of manufactured cloth, but close to an abundant supply of animal hides. The leatherwork
of these cultures developed a distinct aesthetic which was often a synthesis of native and colonial artistic
traditions.
Today 80-85% of leather is chrome tanned in large industrialized manufacturing facilities, but there are still
smaller tanneries producing veg tanned leather as well.
Leather is used for a wide variety of purposes in the modern world, and has played an important role in the
fashion statements of many diverse cultural movements. From bikers and punks, to cowboys and
socialites, many demographics can claim leather as an integral part of their sartorial identities.
There is still a thriving community of hobby leatherworkers in America, and more and more contemporary
designers and craftsman are experimenting with leatherwork and developing new techniques and
aesthetics. Leather also takes very well to laser cutting, which has resulted in a lot of very complex and
interesting designs. Researching some of the possibilities will get you even more excited about learning to
work with leather! You can also follow me on Pinterest (http://www.pinterest.com/mikaelaholmes) where I
am constantly collecting new leather inspiration. And a quick search for handmade leatherwork on Etsy will
bring up a myriad of great independent designers.
If you want to delve further into the fascinating world of leather history, this is a good resource:
Why Leather (https://www.sidestone.com/bookshop/why-leather) - Edited by Susanna Harris & André J.

Veldmeijer

Shopping for Leather
As I've already mentioned, we'll be using chrome tanned leather in this class. Before you go leather
shopping, it helps to know little more about what distinguishes chrome tanned leather from other types of
leather, and how to choose the right kind for any given project.
While you can certainly pick out leather for your projects by look and feel alone, knowing how to ask for
what you want with a few specifics makes you a more effective online shopper, and gives you some instant
leatherworking cred with leather shop owners... which can make a huge difference, believe me :) I'll give
you some basic information about leather types in the next section that will help you navigate the leather
shopping experience.
Basic Leather Classifications
There are three basic things you need to think about when you are shopping for leather: What kind of
leather it is, how thick it is, and how big it is. Understanding how leather is divided into these categories
will help you know what to look for.
Leather Types
Chrome Tanned leatherhas already been dyed and finished during manufacturing. It is tanned using
chemicals like chromium sulphate which shorten the tanning process and make it possible to create leather
with more diverse colors and finishes. Chrome tanned leather does not take additional carving, stamping
tooling or dyeing the way veg tanned leather does, and it will not be deformed by water in the same way.
Chrome tanned leather is used to create most of the leather products you see, especially garments,
handbags and furniture. We will only be working with chrome tanned leather in this class, and you will find
more detail about the different kinds of chrome tanned leather in the next section and in the Leatherworking
Encyclopedia (https://www.instructables.com/lesson/Leatherworking-Encyclopedia/).
Veg Tanned leather has not been dyed or finished in the tanning process and can be tooled, stamped,
carved, moulded and dyed. Veg tanned leather is tanned using natural tannins that are found in organic
matter, and is usually a light beige or flesh tone, the natural color of the leather (though you can find some
veg tanned hides that have been pre-dyed (https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/assorted-double-
shoulders)). Veg tanned leather is mostly used for hand leathercraft like leather carving, armor, saddlery,
shoemaking and bookbinding, and it usually requires dyeing and sealing to create a finished piece. We
won't be using veg tanned leather in this class.
Rawhide is an animal hide that has been de-haired and cured, but not tanned. Rawhide is a stiff, semi
translucent material that needs to be soaked in water in order to become flexible. Once it dries, it becomes
rigid and holds its shape. It is used to make drum heads, water containers, moccasin soles and parts of
saddles. Rawhide is a very specialized material and we won't be using it in this class.

Leather Weight
The thickness of a leather hide is measured in ounces (oz). 1 oz equals .4mm, or 1/64 inch. Most of the
leather we will be dealing with in this class will be between 4-8 oz.
Knowing the weight you are looking for is useful when shopping for leather. There are gauges you can buy
that are designed specifically to measure leather weight, but they are unnecessarily expensive. Alternately,
you can use calipers or a ruler for a slightly less accurate measurement. I like to refer to a visual guide,
especially when shopping online. I've included one here that you can print out:
Download (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F97/040Q/J4IPU8MN/F97040QJ4IPU8MN.pdf)
http://www.instructables.com/ORIG/F97/040Q/J4IPU8MN/F97040QJ4IPU8MN.pdf
…
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F97/040Q/J4IPU8MN/F97040QJ4IPU8MN.pdf)

Hide Size and Part
Hides are divided into sections which are sometimes sold individually. A hide is usually divided in one of
the following ways. Different parts of a hide can be better for different projects. For example, if you wanted
to use the raw shaped edge of the leather for a rustic look, a Belly section would be better than a Bend.
One problem that you will encounter as a hobby leatherworker is that leather, especially chrome tanned
leather, is mostly sold by the hide or half hide, which is quite large when you're talking about a cow (other
hides, like lamb and pig are a lot smaller). The majority of leather suppliers, like Tandy and Hide House,
won't cut smaller pieces. This can make buying leather very expensive, and limit the variety of colors and
weights you can use in one project. There are a few ways to work around this:
Find a leather supplier that will cut you smaller pieces of hides. Mercifully, my local leather store,
S.H. Frank (http://www.shfrankleather.com/) in San Francisco will happily sell me whatever size piece
of leather I need, and I'm sure some others will too. If you find any good local resources for leather in
your area, please send me a message and I will add your store to the leather suppliers list!
Work with a friend. If you know other people who want to learn leatherwork, go shopping together,
buy a few different hides and split them between you. Or even become your own small-time leather
dealer!
Raid scrap bins. A lot of leather stores have bins of remnants that will work for small projects.
(Tandy's remnant bins are usually not worth buying from, but Hide House (https://hidehouse.com/) has
a pretty good scrap collection).
Use salvaged leather. Thrift store handbags, coats, belts and other accessories can be a great source
of chrome tanned leather scraps. Re-use centers like Scrap (http://www.scrap-sf.org/) in San
Francisco and Materials for the Arts (http://www.nyc.gov/html/dcla/mfta/html/home/home.shtml) in New
York also sometimes have leather, and home and auto upholsterers may have scraps they are willing
to part with.
Check fabric stores. A lot of fabric stores (like Fabric Outlet (http://www.fabricoutletsf.com/) and
Discount Fabric (http://www.discountfabrics-sf.com/?
utm_source=ReachLocal&utm_medium=PPC&utm_campaign=RLSearch&scid=1599304&cid=202682
4&tc=16042214445172117&rl_key=0e726ece6669e419106d81293d698732&kw=2229219&pub_cr_id
=88024113069&dynamic_proxy=1&primary_serv=www.discountfabrics-
sf.com&rl_track_landing_pages=1) in SF) carry some leather in smaller sizes, though it is often thin
garment weight, which we aren't using in this class.

Common Types of Chrome Tanned Leather
Since we'll be working with chrome tanned leather and there are so many different kinds, it will be useful
for you to know a little more about some of the most common varieties.

Let's Get to Work!
Now that you have some basic information about tools and types of leather, go ahead and buy everything
you need so we can get started learning how to cut leather and working on our project, making a leather
wallet!

LESSON 2: SIMPLE LEATHER WALLET: LAYOUT AND TRACE
Now it's time to get our hands dirty, and work with some of this leather we've been talking about. We're
going to be applying the skills we learn by making a simple no-sew leather wallet. Constructing this wallet
will show you just how easy it can be to create simple leather projects. For this design, I have chosen a
stiff 4 oz latigo leather in a warm brown. This is a good leather for this project because it holds its structure
but isn't too thick.
In this lesson I'll show you how to transfer a paper pattern onto leather. Before we get started, assemble
the tools and materials you need on your work surface and get comfortable. Print out your wallet pattern on
paper and cut it out with scissors. Make sure when you print out the pattern, you have it scaled to 100% so
it will be the right size. Also, If you can, print it on cardstock or thick paper, this will make it easier to trace
the pattern onto leather.
In this lesson I'll be using:
Leather for the wallet
Scrap leather for testing
Wallet pattern printed and cut out
Scotch tape (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009F3P3U/?tag=instructabl09-20)

Download (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FZA/9T0U/IVO36V2Y/FZA9T0UIVO36V2Y.pdf)
http://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FZA/9T0U/IVO36V2Y/FZA9T0UIVO36V2Y.pdf
…
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FZA/9T0U/IVO36V2Y/FZA9T0UIVO36V2Y.pdf)
The Design
The wallet we'll be making is a simple but practical design. It is made entirely from one piece of leather
with a bill compartment formed by two folded flaps, and two card slots that are just slits cut in the leather.
The whole thing is held together by only 6 rivets, making it ridiculously easy to construct. I've also added a
flap that snaps the wallet shut to help all my various cards stay where they belong.
A simple design like this is really defined by the leather and hardware you choose. The more attractive
your leather, the nicer your project will look, so choose something you like :)

The Two Sides of Leather
Before we start transferring our pattern to leather, we have to make sure we're marking on the correct side
of the leather. Most leather, except suede, has two distinct sides, the grain side and the flesh side.
The grain side is the smoother, shinier and generally nicer looking side. This is the top of the leather,
almost always used as the visible side or outside of a leather project. It is the side I'm touching with my left
hand in the photo above.
In contrast, the flesh side is usually fuzzier, rougher and less finished looking. Sometimes on leather that is
dyed or finished a certain way, the flesh side may even be a very different color than the grain side. The
flesh side is almost always used as the underside or inside of a leather project, as it is usually less
attractive. On a lot of leather, the flesh side is also softer than the grain side, making it better as the inside
of wearable pieces where it will be touching your skin.
I'm folding the leather over to reveal the flesh side with my right hand in the photo above.
If you sew, you know that you usually cut and mark fabric from the reverse side, but when you're working
with leather, you often mark on the grain side. This is mostly because you mark by making a scratch on the
surface of the leather, and you can see this type of mark better on the grain side. It's also best to cut
leather from the grain side to get the cleanest cut, and this means you need to make visible guide-lines on
the side you're cutting.
Transfer the Pattern Onto Leather

Now let's trace our wallet pattern onto leather. This is almost always the first step in creating any leather
project from a pattern.
First lay your leather out on a flat surface with the grain side facing up. If you have a large piece of leather,
you might want to weigh it down with something to keep it from shifting around. Place the pattern piece on
your leather, somewhere close to the edge so you are making the most efficient use of your material.
You don't want to pin down your pattern piece here as you would with a sewing pattern on fabric. Any hole
you make in leather will remain visible forever after, so pins are not a good idea. (Also, it's very difficult to
stick pins into leather). As an alternative, I usually use a few small pieces of scotch tape to hold my pattern
pieces down. Just two on a pattern piece is usually enough to hold it in place as you trace.
The tape will leave marks on the leather, so only stick it in areas that won't be part of another pattern piece.
If you've cut your pattern out of cardstock or oak tag, you can sometimes get away without using tape and
just holding your pattern piece in place, but I still think a little tape is a good idea.
Now take your awl and trace around the edge of your pattern piece while holding it down with your other
hand. You don't need to press down too hard with the awl, just hard enough to make a visible mark on your
leather. Having your pattern in thicker paper comes in handy here too because your awl has a firm edge to
follow. When you have traced all the external lines, use the tip of your awl to mark the center of the rivet
and snap holes marked with black circles on the pattern, and the black internal cut lines for the card slots.
Don't mark the fold lines that are shown in red, we will mark those later.

Now, remove the pattern from your leather, checking that you haven't missed any lines. To get perfectly
straight lines on straight edges, I also sometimes just mark the corners, and then trace the lines with a ruler
after removing the pattern.
Here's a video to show you exactly how to do all this:
https://player.vimeo.com/video/161555805?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0

What We Learned
In this lesson we took the first step in creating a leather design from a paper pattern. When you are
constructing more complex projects with multiple pattern pieces, this can be a much more time consuming
process. Transferring a pattern correctly will help ensure that the rest of your project comes together
smoothly.
Next we'll learn about leather cutting techniques, and follow the guidelines we've traced to cut out our
wallet pattern!

LESSON 3: CUTTING LEATHER
Cutting is one of the most important skills in leatherwork. Getting a good clean cut-edge on your leather
makes a huge difference to the look of your project, especially if you are leaving your edges raw like we
are here. There are quite a few different leather cutting methods, and which one you choose mostly
depends on what kind of leather you're working with, and what shape your pattern is.
Your own comfort and skill level is also a major factor here. As a leatherworker with a background in
sewing, I tend to use scissors when I can because I am the most comfortable with them as a cutting tool,
but you might be more comfortable using an x-acto knife. A lot of professional leatherworkers use a round
knife (https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/al-stohlman-brand-round-knife?sSearch=round%20knife),
which can be a useful tool, but it is also a giant scary blade that is extremely intimidating!... So I won't be
teaching that one yet.
In this lesson I'll show you a few different ways to cut leather, you can choose the ones that work for you,
and then we'll cut out the wallet.
Leather with your traced wallet pattern

Cutting mat (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025189VE/?tag=instructabl09-20)
Leather shears or sharp scissors (http://www.amazon.com/dp/94467097J/?tag=instructabl09-20)
X-acto knife (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KRSWM6/?tag=instructabl09-20)

Cutting wheel (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B7M8WU/?tag=instructabl09-20)

Cutting Leather With Scissors
I'm going to show you my three favorite methods for cutting leather. Some work better for different
situations, and some are just a matter of personal preference. Whatever you do, I suggest trying each of
these tools on scrap leather first before you use them to cut out the wallet pattern.
Scissors or Leather Shears: with thinner, more pliable leather, I think a good sharp pair of scissors can
often be the best tool for cutting out patterns, especially shapes with curved lines. Since leather of the
same weight can vary in stiffness and texture, there is no hard-and-fast rule for when leather becomes too
thick to cut effectively with scissors. The best way to find out is to test, but in general, leather above 9 or 10
oz will be too thick.
A few things to keep in mind when using scissors on leather:
Try to mostly cut against a flat surface, don't cut up in the air (unless you are cutting very small details).
Keep your scissors at a right angle to your leather and cutting surface, this helps you create a cut edge
that is squared off, not beveled.
To create clean lines, cut with long slow strokes, not short choppy ones.
Practice first on scraps so you don't ruin your project.

Cutting With X-Acto, Utility or Craft Knives
I find these types of knives to be the most versatile (and cheap) leather cutting tool. They work great for
straight lines, and pretty good on curves too, with a bit of practice.
A few things to keep in mind:
Cut on top of a cutting mat or other appropriate surface. Cutting surfaces need to be flat, smooth and
somewhat soft so your blade doesn't get dulled or broken too easily.
Hold your leather steady with one hand while pulling your knife smoothly along your marked pattern lines
with the other.
Try to keep your blade held at right angles to your cutting surface.
Press down hard enough to cut all the way through in one pass to get the cleanest lines. You can always
go back and cut a second time if you have to, but this sometimes creates a jagged edge.
Move the leather around between cuts to get the best cutting angle on each line. Your arm can only
effectively cut straight lines at certain angles, and it's usually easier to move the leather than to move
your whole body to give your arm the best leverage.
To cut straight lines, you can use a metal ruler as a guide for your knife. Hold the ruler down firmly with
your other hand as you cut.
Cut with a sharp blade. A sharp blade makes a HUGE difference. Change them often, they're cheap.
Always be safe! Keep your free hand out of the path of your x-acto blade and work slowly and
consciously. These knives may be small, but they are extremely sharp and can be a very dangerous tool
if you aren't being careful. Keep all your fingers!

Here's how I use both ruler-aided cutting and free-hand cutting on different parts of a pattern piece:

Cutting With a Cutting Wheel
Cutting wheels are basically like pizza cutters for leather. They have a sharp retractable wheel blade and
come in different sizes. When used correctly, they create beautiful clean edges along straight lines, but
they can be a bit tricky to master. I mostly use them for cutting straps.
A few things to keep in mind when using a cutting wheel:
Cut on top of a cutting mat or other appropriate surface. As with knives, cutting surfaces need to be flat,
smooth and somewhat soft so your blade doesn't get dulled or broken too easily.
Use a long metal, or very thick plastic ruler as a guide. Your ruler should be at least as long as the line
you need to cut. Hold your ruler down with your free hand and run your cutting wheel directly along the
edge of the ruler, pushing away from you.
Press down firmly so you cut all the way through the leather.
Make your cut in one long stroke if possible, starting and stopping makes jagged edges more likely.
Always be safe! Keep your free hand out of the path of your cutting wheel blade and work slowly and
consciously. Cutting wheels can be very dangerous if you aren't being careful. Keep all your fingers!

Cut Out the Wallet Pattern
To cut out your wallet pattern, choose one of the cutting methods I've demonstrated, and cut the leather
along the lines you've marked with the awl. I used an x-acto knife and a metal ruler to cut all the straight
lines, then rounded the corners with scissors. Skip cutting the two internal card slot cuts for now, we'll cut
those in the next lesson.
You could also use scissors to cut the whole thing. I wouldn't recommend a cutting wheel for this project
because a shape like this is too small, with too many angles, to cut with a cutting wheel without making
mistakes.

What We Learned
So now you've practiced a few of the best techniques for cutting leather. Making clean cuts takes practice,
so keep trying if you aren't getting it right away. Remember a sharp blade makes a huge difference. So
keep your tools sharp or change blades often. There is a lot of good advice about tool care and sharpening
(all given through beautiful hand drawings) in the book Leathercraft Tools
(http://www.amazon.com/Leathercraft-Tools-Al-Stohlman/dp/1892214903/ref=sr_1_1?
ie=UTF8&qid=1462212031&sr=8-1&keywords=leathercraft+tools+book).
In the next lesson we'll keep constructing our wallet as we learn how to fold leather.
How's Your Project Going?
If you have any problems cutting out your wallet, feel free to ask questions in the discussion section below.

LESSON 4: GOUGING AND FOLDING LEATHER
When you're working with leather, you sometimes need to create a fold or crease as part of a pattern. You
might need to fold over a strap to create a loop, fold pattern pieces to fit together along seam lines, create
folds to add volume to a bag or pocket, etc. Folding leather is not as simple as folding paper or cloth
because leather is thicker and harder to crease, but with the right tools and techniques it's not that hard.
I'll show you how to use the adjustable V-gouge in the next step and then we'll use it to gouge and fold our
wallet.
The wallet pattern you cut in the last lesson
Adjustable v-gouge (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WJ2VOB6/?tag=instructabl09-20)
Mallet (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OV97X0Q/?tag=instructabl09-20)
Cardboard scraps
Binder clips (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B011R7E06E/?tag=instructabl09-20)
Cutting mat (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025189VE/?tag=instructabl09-20)

Ruler (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YQMCJM/?tag=instructabl09-20)
Sturdy surface to pound on

Sponge and cup of water

Gouging
The tool we are going to use to make grooves that enable folding is called an adjustable V-gouge. The V-
gouge is like a wood carving tool, it carves a V shaped trench in leather at different depths depending on
how you adjust it. Turning the wheel at the base of the metal shaft changes the depth of the cut by moving
the blade.
You need to adjust the depth of your cut based on thickness of your leather so you don't cut too deeply and
make your leather weak. It is usually a good idea to test the gouge on a scrap of your leather before you
use it on an actual pattern piece. If your gouge cuts all the way through, or even creates a visible ridge on
the opposite side of the leather, as you can see below, you've probably cut too deep. It is also a good idea
to always gouge on top of a cutting mat, because you can easily cut through or over-cut and damage the
surface underneath.
If you can, it is best to make your groove by pushing the gouge along the leather in one smooth motion.
This will always be easier if the blade of your your gouge is sharp. However, sometimes the texture of the
leather makes it difficult to cut smoothly, especially when you are gouging on the flesh side of the leather
as you do most often. In this case, you sometimes need to create your cut by working the gouge along the
leather in short choppy "sawing" motions, and even going back over the line a few times until you've made
a deep enough groove. Hold your leather down firmly with your other hand as you gouge, and flip your
leather around if you need to to get better leverage on different areas.
When you are using your gouge to create a fold, you almost always gouge on the flesh side of leather so you won't see the
gouge, and also because leaving the grain side intact will help the leather maintain structural integrity.

Folding
Once you've gouged a deep enough groove into your leather, you will be able to feel it fold more easily
along the gouged line.
Now you need to help define a permanent crease along this line by pounding the fold with a mallet. Using a
mallet to crease leather is basically the leatherworking equivalent of using an iron to press fabric during
sewing. To prevent the mallet from making marks in your leather as you pound, take some scrap pieces of
stiff cardboard or leather and place them over the fold. Pound hard on top of the cardboard until you have
formed a good crease in the leather.

Gouge and Fold the Wallet
We are going to use this gouging and folding technique to fold up the internal flaps of the wallet that will
contain the card slots.
First you need to mark where you are going to fold. I have marked the fold line in red on the pattern, and as
you can see it runs along the bottom of the gap between the two flaps. Turn the leather wallet piece over
so the flesh side of the leather is facing up, and use a ruler and an awl to mark where the fold line will be.
Make sure you've tested your V-gouge on a scrap of the same leather before you gouge the lines on your
actual wallet. Remember, you want to gouge deep enough so you can feel the leather fold fairly easily, but
not so deep that you come close to breaking through the grain side of the leather. When you think you've
gotten the hang of using this tool, gouge along the lines you marked on the flesh side.
Because this leather is a bit stiff, and I noticed that the dye tended to crack a little when folded, I decided to
help the folding process by applying a little water. Take a sponge and dampen both sides of the leather
along the gouge lines.
Now place a piece of cardboard over the folded up flaps and pound the fold with your mallet, until you have
created a crisp clean crease.
If you have a moment to leave your wallet sitting before moving to the next step, you can help solidify the
fold by clamping it between two pieces of cardboard with binder clips. Leaving the wallet clamped like this
until it dries in a few hours will make the folds lay extra flat, but it isn't absolutely necessary.

What We Learned
I hope this lesson has shown you that gouging and folding are important skills in leatherwork and can be
used to create some really interesting shapes and details. Later in this class we'll use these skills again to
add a pleat to a pocket. I've also seen some great bag and small accessory designs that use almost
origami-like techniques to create pieces that can be assembled with very little sewing or hardware.
Designs like this Leather Clutch Bag (https://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-Clutch-Bag/) by RouterMan
(https://www.instructables.com/member/Router+man/) and my Leather Beer and Wine Carrier
(https://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-Beer-Wine-Carrier/) are good examples of how you can use
folding to create functionality in a leather design.
In the next lesson we'll learn how to assemble our folded wallet using rivets.
How's Your Project Going?
If you have any problems as you construct your wallet, feel free to ask questions in the discussion section
below.

LESSON 5: LEATHER HARDWARE: RIVETS
Now that we've learned how to cut and fold leather, we're going to learn how to attach pieces of leather to
each other by one of the simplest methods: riveting. Riveting requires hole punching, so we'll also take a
look at a few different tools for punching holes. Then we'll put all these skills together to assemble our
wallet!
Your wallet pattern cut out in leather
Rapid rivets (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQ7DR0M/?tag=instructabl09-20) and rivet setter
(http://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Factory-Rivet-Setter/dp/B003ABGIWK/ref=sr_1_3?s=arts-
crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1459837199&sr=1-3&keywords=rapid+rivet+setter)
Rotary punch (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0048F247A/?tag=instructabl09-20) and manual punches
(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F27AMI/?tag=instructabl09-20)
Hammer (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002X1X5/?tag=instructabl09-20)
Clear ruler (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YQMCJM/?tag=instructabl09-20)

Wire cutters (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/?tag=instructabl09-20)
Quartz slab (http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/deluxe-quartz-slab-12-x-12) and poundo board
(http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/poundo-boards) or other punching surface

Punching Holes With Rotary and Manual Punches
In order to attach rivets, snaps and other hardware to leather, first you need to punch holes. Punching
holes in strategic places can also be helpful when you need to cut out slots or other complex internal
shapes. There are a few different tools for hole punching that are better for different applications.
The Rotary Punch is the easiest to use and most convenient tool for punching holes. It has a rotating
head with different punching blades to create holes of various sizes. To punch a hole, you just squeeze
down on the handles until you press the punch through the leather. Rotary punches are great for punching
holes in straps and other easily accessible areas, but they can only punch a hole about 1 1/2"-2" from the
edge of a piece of leather (or a little more if the leather is flexible enough to gather). Also they are not great
for punching through very thick leather because you can only apply so much force by squeezing the tool
with your hand.
Like most tools, rotary punches only work well if they are sharp, so keep yours sharp or buy replacement
blades when they get dull. If your punch isn't making a clean cut all the way through your leather, swiveling
the leather around while clamping down on the punch will sometimes help it cut through.
Manual Punches are a more versatile, if slightly less convenient way to punch holes. They allow you to
punch in hard to reach places far from leather edges, and they can punch through very tough leather. The
set I have has a single shaft that comes with interchangeable heads of different sizes.
To punch a hole with a manual punch, place your leather over your poundo board or other soft punching
surface. Hold your punch straight up and down on top of your leather where you want to punch a hole, then
hit it with a mallet. One strike with the mallet should be plenty to punch through, though with thicker leather
you sometimes need to strike again.
Never punch directly on top of a hard surface like your metal anvil or quartz. This will dull your punches
very quickly. It is also not a good idea to hit a metal tool with a metal hammer or mallet. This will eventually
distort the top end of the tool making it harder to use.
You can find punches in different shapes, like ovals for attaching buckles, or even decorative shapes like
stars. Punches like this can be useful and fun for creating cut-out filigree patterns.

Rivets
Rivets are one of my favorite leatherworking tools because they are just so easy to use, and I love the way
they look. Rivets let you attach two or more pieces of leather together when they are set through holes in
the leather. They come in a variety of finishes so you can choose rivets that intentionally stand out against
your leather or rivets that blend in. There are a few different kinds, but I'm just going to show you the
easiest for now.
Rapid Rivets:
In my opinion, these are the best kind of rivets because, as the name implies, they are quick and easy to
set. Rapid rivets have two parts, an end with a stem that looks like a tiny mushroom, and an end with just a
cap and no stem. They are also often called double cap rivets because of the cap on both sides (though
some variations have one end that is hollow or decorative in some way).
To attach these rivets, punch a hole the size of the rivet stem, or slightly larger, insert the stem into the
hole from one side, and then snap the cap onto the end of the stem from the other side.

The correct way to set the rivets is by nesting the bottom cap in the correct sized divot in the rivet setting
base, and then using a mallet to pound down on the top cap with a rivet setting shaft that has a concave
end. This will keep the caps of the rivets slightly rounded rather than hammering them flat.
If you don't have the rivet setter, however, or you would rather have flat-topped rivets, you can just set
them on a hard, flat surface with a hammer. The back of the rivet setting base, or your quartz slab works
well for this. Using a hammer does make it a bit easier to accidentally crush or mark-up the top of a rivet,
but if you try to hit straight-on it will usually work fine.
As you can see, these rivets come with different sized caps, but they also have different length stems. The
size of the cap is mostly aesthetic, though it is good to use larger caps for more heavy duty projects. The
length of the stem, however, is important!
If the stem is too long, the rivet won't set right, and if the stem is too short, you won't be able set it at all.
You don't want the stem to extend more than 1/8" beyond the leather. If it does stick out farther than this
and you don't have another rivet option, you can use a pair of nippers to cut off the very end of the stem.
The rivet should still set correctly, but you should test one on a scrap of leather first.

Removing Rivets
It is inevitable that, at some point, you will set a rivet and then slap yourself on the forehead as you realize
that you put it in the wrong place or forgot to add the ring to the loop you're closing, or some other apparent
catastrophe!
If this happens, don't panic, there are ways to remove rivets or snaps.
I like to use a pair of small wire nippers to cut off a rivet. Start by cutting the stem of the rivet between the
layers of leather, this way you will be less likely to damage the visible grain side of the leather. Try not to
cut into the leather itself.
Once you've squeezed the stem a little, the top of the cap will usually pop off, and then you can remove the
base of the cap and pull the whole thing out. Your leather may look a bit messy underneath, but that will be
covered up by another rivet.
You can basically do the same thing with snaps, but it is a bit trickier since they are made of a harder and
thicker metal.

Cut Card Slots in the Wallet
Before we use rivets to assemble the wallet, we need to cut the two card slots in the flaps. We didn't do
this before because these card slots are going to have a hole punched at each end, and I wanted to teach
you about hole punching first. The holes make the cuts in the leather less likely to tear, help cards fit more
easily into the slots, and also make the openings easier to cut.
Use a punch to create a small hole at both ends of each slot you marked with the awl.
Then use a metal ruler and x-acto to cut between the holes. Be careful not to overcut, holding your knife at
closer to a 90 angle when you reach the end of the cut helps prevent this.

Rivet the Wallet
Now we are going to punch holes and rivet together the two folded flaps of the wallet.
First, take one flap and fold it, lining it up so the outside edges of the leather are perfectly even and the fold
is laying flat. Holding the two layers in place with the flap facing up, use a rotary hole punch to punch a
hole through both layers at one of the rivet positions you marked from the pattern.
Making holes this way, by punching both layers at once, ensures that your holes will be perfectly aligned.
Now stick a rivet stud through this hole to help keep the leather aligned correctly as you punch the two
other holes. Repeat on the second flap.

Stick rivet studs through all the holes, then add the rivet caps.
Use your rivet setter and mallet, or hammer, to set the rivets.

You're Almost Done!
See how easy it is to assemble something with rivets?! Whether you have a rivet setter or just a hammer
and a flat surface, rivets are a fast and secure way to make connections between pieces of leather. Rivets
aren't always the right way to put something together, but when they are, they're amazingly convenient.
Using rivets with different looks can also really add style to a design, and it's not unusual to use them
purely for decoration.
In the next lesson we'll move on to another kind of hardware, and finish assembling the wallet by adding a
snap closure.

LESSON 6: LEATHER HARDWARE: SNAPS
Now we're going to learn about one of the simplest types of leather closures: snaps. Snaps are a great way
to fasten things because they are relatively small and unobtrusive, and quite secure for their size. They are
also pretty easy to set with the right setting tools.
I'll show you how they work and how to set them properly, and then we'll use one to put the finishing touch
on our wallet.
Your riveted wallet from the last lesson
Line 20 snaps (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ABEIS6/?tag=instructabl09-20) and Line 20 snap setter
(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003A64ASE/?tag=instructabl09-20 B0178ZZP5O)
Rotary (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0048F247A/?tag=instructabl09-20) and manual punches
(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F27AMI/?tag=instructabl09-20)
Hammer (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002X1X5/?tag=instructabl09-20)

Clear ruler (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YQMCJM/?tag=instructabl09-20)
Quartz slab (http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/deluxe-quartz-slab-12-x-12) and poundo
(http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/poundo-boards) or other punching surface
Sponge and a cup of water
Setting Snaps
Snaps make great closures on bags or pockets, attachments points on straps, etc. There are a few
different sizes and types of snaps that are set in different ways and good for use on different types of
projects.
Line 20 and 24 snaps are the most common in leatherwork. They have the same structure and are set in
the same way, but line 24 snaps are bigger and more heavy duty than line 20 snaps. I use line 20 snaps
for most of my leather projects. I think they are a good size for medium to heavy weight leather.
Line 20 and 24 snaps have 4 parts: The cap and the socket, and the post and the stud. You set the cap
and the socket together on one piece of leather and the post and the stud together on another, and then
the socket and the stud snap and unsnap to each other create the closure.

To set line 20 or 24 snaps, first punch two corresponding holes in your top and bottom leather pieces. The
holes should be the size of the snap post. Sometimes, to be sure I get the snaps aligned correctly, I will set
one side and then use it to get the exact placement for the other side before I punch a second hole (you'll
see what I mean when we assemble the wallet).
To set the cap side in your top leather piece, slip the cap into the hole from the grain side. Then slip the
socket down over the stem of the cap from the flesh side.
Take your setting base and place it under your leather so the cap sits in the appropriately sized divot. Use
your line 20 snap setting tool to set the snap by hammering it together with a mallet. Tap lightly with the
mallet at first so the snap aligns properly, then pound harder to secure it. When your snap is set right it
shouldn't spin around in its hole.
To set the post side, stick the post through your bottom piece of leather from the flesh side, and slip the
stud down over the post from the grain side.
You don't need to use the divots on the snap setting base here because the post is flat on the back. Just
place your leather over any very hard flat surface. The other side of the snap setting base works well.
Again, use the snap setting tool and mallet to set the stud onto the post. Now you have a complete snap
pair.
Snap the two sides of your snap together to test if they connect and hold well.
Though line 20 snaps are all the same diameter (about 7/16"), they come with posts of different lengths
that are good for different weights of leather. If your snap post sticks out more than 1/8" beyond the leather,
the snap won't set properly, so choose a post length that is right for your leather: 3/16" for 5-7 oz leather,
and 5/16" for 8-10 oz leather.

Troubleshooting Snaps
When the posts of your of your snaps are a bit too long and they won't attach right when you try to set
them. A good trick is to make a leather "washer" by cutting a small circle of leather and punching a hole it
it. You can slip this over the post of the snap before you set it, and it will make your leather the right
thickness for the snap!

Make a Center Fold in the Wallet
Before we put a snap on the wallet, we need to define a center crease where the whole thing folds over on
itself. This crease will develop naturally over time from the pressure of the wallet being folded and used,
but we want to establish it in the right place so we know exactly where to put the snap.
For this fold, we aren't going to use the V gouge because we don't want to weaken the leather at this point
of repeated motion, or make an unsightly mark. Instead, fold the wallet closed so it's lined up just right.
Press down on the center fold with your fingers to define where the crease goes.

Now take your sponge and dampen the leather along this line, inside and out. Fold the wallet again, cover
the fold with cardboard, and pound to create a crease with your mallet.

Add a Snap to the Wallet
Finally, to finish our wallet we are going to add a snap closure on the front flap.
Punch a hole near the end of the flap, 5/8" in from the edge, and 1" down from the top.

Stick a snap cap in from the outside, then nest it in a divot on the snap setting base, add the snap socket,
and set the snap with your setting tool and mallet.
Fold the flap over onto the wallet, lining it up exactly where it should sit and press down hard on the snap
with your fingers. When you open the flap, you should be able to see the faint impression of a circle on the
leather beneath, this is where the bottom half of your snap should go.

Now punch a hole in the center of that circle, and set the post and stud half of the snap in this hole, using
the flat side of your snap setting base. You will need to slip the base inside the flap of the wallet so you are
pounding directly on the metal of the base not the leather of the flap. Otherwise you would damage the
leather.

You're Done!
And there's your finished wallet! Cards should fit easily in the slots and the space behind the flaps will hold
a full length stack of paper bills.
Now that you've seen how to assemble this basic design, I'm sure you can imagine a lot of variations you
could create fairly easily, and how you could apply the skills you've learned to create different kinds of
projects. If you've made a wallet or something else using the skills we've covered in this class, please feel
free to share a photo your project here!
The best way to internalize any skill is to keep practicing it, so I highly recommend finding another project
to work on soon. An easy way to do this is to move on to my Intermediate Leatherworking Class
(https://www.instructables.com/class/Intermediate-Leatherworking-Class/) where you'll learn how to create
patterns for basic leather accessories and then practice punching, gluing, sewing attaching buckles,
clasps, and more as you complete your own custom leather designs!
Instructables also full of great leatherworking projects that will give you even more inspiration, so I've
assembled a collection of projects that I think your newly acquired skills will make you well prepared for.
They are arranged at the bottom of this page page in order from extremely easy to quite challenging.
I really hope you've enjoyed this class! feel free to ask questions in the discussion section. Please share
photos of your projects here, and if you keep creating with leather or any material, I encourage you to
publish your projects (https://www.instructables.com/about/create.jsp) as Instructables and enter them in
Instructables contests (https://www.instructables.com/contest/)! I can't wait to see what you create!

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BEGINNING LEATHERWORKING CLASS

6 Lessons Beginner Level

Beginning Leatherworking Class: Page 1

Lesson 1: Leather Tools and Supplies

Lesson 2: Simple Leather Wallet: Layout and Trace

Lesson 3: Cutting Leather

Lesson 4: Gouging and Folding Leather

Lesson 5: Leather Hardware: Rivets

Lesson 6: Leather Hardware: Snaps

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Essential Tools for this Class:

X-acto knife (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KRSWM6/?tag=instructabl09-20) or Industrial knife

Manual punches (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F27AMI/?tag=instructabl09-20), or rotary punch

Quartz slab (http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/deluxe-quartz-slab-12-x-12) and poundo board

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Clear 18" x 2" ruler (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YQMCJM/?tag=instructabl09-20)

Scotch tape (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009F3P3U/?tag=instructabl09-20)

Stiff 4-6 oz leather - at least a 12" square

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(http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/industrial-knife-handle-w-two-blades)X-Acto Knife - a cheap and

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Hardware: one line 20 snap (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ABEIS6/?tag=instructabl09-20), and 6 small

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Photo by Daderot (Own work) [CC0], via Wikimedia Commons

Photo by Anonymous artist - http://www.digibib.tu-bs.de/?docid=00000286, (http://www.digibib.tu-bs.de/?

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Why Leather (https://www.sidestone.com/bookshop/why-leather) - Edited by Susanna Harris & André J.

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Basic Leather Classifications

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In this lesson I'll be using:

Leather for the wallet

Scrap leather for testing

Wallet pattern printed and cut out

Scotch tape (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009F3P3U/?tag=instructabl09-20)

Metal ruler (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IXKD9U/?tag=instructabl09-20)

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Transfer the Pattern Onto Leather

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Here's a video to show you exactly how to do all this:

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In this lesson I'll be using:

Leather with your traced wallet pattern

Scrap leather for testing

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Cutting mat (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025189VE/?tag=instructabl09-20)

Leather shears or sharp scissors (http://www.amazon.com/dp/94467097J/?tag=instructabl09-20)

X-acto knife (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KRSWM6/?tag=instructabl09-20)

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A few things to keep in mind when using scissors on leather:

Practice first on scraps so you don't ruin your project.