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ELUCIDATION OF THE INDIAN SALWAR KAMEEZ

Presentation · October 2016

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Monisha Kumar
University of Delhi
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Monisha Kumar
Assistant Professor ,
Fashion Design Department,
Dar Al Hekma University,
Jeddah, KSA

Dr. Amita Walia

Assistant Professor ,
Fabric & Apparel Science
University of Delhi,
India.
The present study traces the origin of Salwar Kameez, its
introduction in the Indian culture and its transformation into
the present day Salwar Kameez.

The main objectives of the study are to -

* Trace the origin of Salwar Kameez,
*Study its introduction in the Indian subcontinent
*Analyze the various style developments over the decades
*Discuss the interaction of styles within the subcontinent.
 Source:
http://www.nationalmuseumindia.gov.in/prodCollections.asp?pid=34&id=1&lk=dp1

Indus Valley
Mother Goddess
of Mohenjo-Daro
Source: Alkazi, R. Ancient Indian Costume, 1983, New Delhi.

Vedic Period
Vedic & Post
Source: Alkazi, R. Ancient Indian Costume, 1983, New Delhi.

Gupta Period
* Definition- a loose fitted trousers * Definition- a shirt usually of varied
fastened by a drawstrings at the lengths.
waist. * Terminology-
* Terminology- Qameez or Qamis( Arabic)
Shalwar (Persian & Urdu), Gömlek( Turkish)
Šalvār (Turkish), Kurta (Hindi)
Sirwāl (Arabic),
Shalvaar (Hindi)

Women Costume of Slave Dynasty
Review of literature,
have revealed that after
1100 AD when Ottoman
was predominant in the
Middle East & Slave
Dynasty was
establishing itself in
Indian Subcontinent,
both men and women
wore ‘Kaftan’ originally
a Persian garment.
Salvar or trouser as a
lower garment and
turbans.
 The present day Salwar Kameez,
popular as one of the traditional Indian
costume, traces back its origin to the
Persian influence which was brought to

Source: http://strandofsilk.com/indian-fashion-blog/stylish-thoughts/flared-flair-
India by the Mughals who followed
Islam.
 With the Persian influence, the majority
of stitched garments entered India; the
Antariya was replaced by the Pajamas
(Lower garment). The uttariya still
remained though various tunics like
Kurtas and angrakhas were added.
 A lot of fusion wear came in, like
wearing Kurta with Dhoti (which is
considered traditional Indian wear

designer-anarkalis
today), Kurta with various types of
Pyjamas.
Different Types
of Salwar
Different Types
of Kameez
Punjabi Suit Kashmiri Pheran
and Salwar
Anarkali Suit Khada Dupatta
Lucknow Hyderabad
The distinct differentiating
elements between the Indian
and Pakistani suits are-
 Kurta- which falls straight
and hides the ungainly
bulges.
 Salwar- Pant style and often
lined with lace, unlike the
Indian style which tapers
narrowly.
 Material- originally made in
lawn and chiffon.
 Silhouette- Loose, flowy and
flattering all body shapes.
After extensive study and analysis, it can be easily inferred
that the traditional dress of Persian (Iranian) and Turks
travelled to the subcontinent during the medieval period.
This easily got amalgamated into the culture of Indian
subcontinent and with transformation over time, a unique
style was created. Even though different from the original
it still resembled the former in many ways.
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