Sock Monkee 2.

Gauge: 6sts x 9rows = 1 inch

Materials:
90 yards of Yarn 1 (Y1) Undyed DK weight yarn, 90 yards of
Yarn 2 (Y2) Self Striping DK weight yarn, 1 set 2.75 mm #2 DP
needles, 1 12-inch 2.75 mm #2 Circular Needle, 1 skein black
DMC floss or 2-3 yards of black sport weight yarn or string, 1
skein red DMC floss or 2-3 yards of red sport weight yarn or
string, Polyester Fiber-fill

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Stitch Instructions
k:knit CO: Cast On
ybwd: Move working yarn to back yfwd: Bring working yarn in front
p:purl BO: Bind off
DPN(s): Double pointed needle(s) unwkd: unworked
rem: remain(s), remaining sl: slip st purl-wise from left needle to right needle.
st(s): stitch(es)
Turkish Cast on: Tie a slip-knot in the yarn, hold DPN horizontally with the circular needle below it. Place the slip-knot onto both
needles & tighten with working yarn hanging down. Wrap yarn counterclockwise towards the right until you have half the number of
wraps as CO sts (pattern says “CO 32”, you should have 16 wraps.) yfwd between the two needles. Slide circular needle towards the
right, positioning the nylon cable in the bottom half of loops with the tips dangling. Insert a third needle purl-wise into the first loop &
purl a stitch & slide it off the left needle as you would do with regular sts. Repeat this step for the appropriate number of loops on the
left needle. You now have the proper number of stitches. Half on 1 needle and half on the other.
p enc (purl encroachment): sl 1, pick up 1 st below next st, p2tog
k enc (knit encroachment): sl 1, pick up 1 st below next st, k2tog.
Consolidation: Divide stitches evenly onto two needles. While holding them horizontal & parallel to each other, insert a third needle
knit-wise into the first stitch on your front needle then insert the needle knit-wise into the first stitch on the back needle. k2tog.
m1(a): make a backward loop and place it on the right hand needle with the working yarn pointing away from you (You may substitute
your favorite increase stitch if you prefer)
k2tog tbl: insert right needle into two stitches purl-wise through the back loop of each stitch, knit them together. (You may substitute
k2tog if you prefer, I use this method simply for ease.)
I-Cord: Cast on 4 sts using DPNs. Knit, do not turn, slide the sts back to the beginning of the needle and k the row again. Continue in
this manner until you have a short length of knitting, pull down on the cord and the gap at the back will close. Continue until the cord is
the length you desire.
KFB: knit next st, do not slide off the left needle yet. Instead ybwd, insert right needle purl-wise into the back loop of the same stitch
and knit. You now have two sts where you once had one.

© 2010 Mybootee Boutique Rev. 4/13/2010 1

 First make the arms/legs/tail. Then working from the head down, the arms/legs/tail are attached at intervals. Once the body is
done, complete the eyes/ears & attach them. The final step will be to embroider on his facial features, embellish him as you
wish, & enjoy.
Legs (make 2): With Y1 & using the Turkish Cast On method (see stitch instructions), CO 20 sts. *Don’t forget to purl a row.
The slip knot does not count as one of your stitches. Work short rows on 2 DPNs with only 10 sts.
Row 1: Sl 1, k until 1 st rem unwkd, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until1 st rem unwkd, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts rem unwkd, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts rem, p enc, turn, (1 st rem unwkd)
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 2 sts rem, k enc, turn, (1 st rem unwkd)
Row 6: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc because you are at the end of the row, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc because you are at the end of the row. Do not turn because you are at the end of the short
rows. Remove the slip knot. Knit the stitches from the circular needle.
Rounds 1-14: Knit all 20 sts.
Rounds 15-44: Switch to Y2, knit all sts. Stuff with fiber-fill, consolidate sts (see st instructions), You should now have 10 live
sts. Cut yarn leaving about 6 inches. Transfer each leg to a spare needle, scrap of yarn (double thickness), or a st saver tool
as they are completed with the purl side of the final row facing you. This will be helpful when you attach them to the body.
Tail (Monkee Only): With Y1, and your favorite cast on method, CO 4, do not turn, knit an I-Cord for about 14 rounds.
Switch to Y2, continue knitting until tail measures about 2 inches longer than the legs. No need to consolidate these 4
stitches, just cut yarn and transfer to your spare needle or scrap yarn.
Arms: (make 2): With Y1 & using the Turkish Cast On method (see stitch instructions), cast on 16 sts. *Don’t forget to purl a
row. The slip knot does not count as one of your stitches. Work short rows on 2 DPNs with only 8 sts.
Row 1: Sl 1, k until 1st rem, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until1 st rem, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts rem, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts rem, p enc, turn, (1 st rem unwkd)
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 2 sts rem, k enc, turn, (1 st rem unwkd)
Row 6: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc because you are at the end of the row, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, because you are at the end of the row. Do not turn because you are at the end of the
short rows. Remove the slip knot. Knit the stitches from the circular needle.

Rounds 1-10: Knit all 16 sts.

Rounds 11-34: Switch to Y2, knit all sts. Stuff with fiber-fill, consolidate sts (see st instructions), You should now have 8 live
sts. Cut yarn leaving about 6 inches. Transfer each leg to a spare needle, scrap of yarn (double thickness), or a st saver tool
as they are completed with the purl side of the final row facing you. This will be helpful when you attach them to the body.
Head: With Y1 & using the Turkish Cast-On Method, cast on 40 stitches. *Don’t forget to purl a row. The slip knot does not
count as one of your stitches. Work short rows on 2 DPNs with only 20 sts.
Row 1: Sl 1, k until 1 st rem, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until 1 st rem, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts rem, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts rem, turn,
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 3 sts rem, turn,
Row 6: Sl 1, p until 3 sts rem, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k until 4 sts rem, turn,
Row 8: Sl 1, p until 4 sts rem, turn,
Row 9: Sl 1, k until 5 sts rem, turn,
Row 10: Sl 1 p until 5 sts rem, p enc, turn, (4 sts rem)
Row 11: Sl 1, k until 5 sts rem, k enc, turn, (4 sts rem)

© 2010 Mybootee Boutique Rev. 4/13/2010 2

 Row 12: Sl 1, p until 4 sts rem, p enc, turn, (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 13: Sl 1, k until 4 sts rem, k enc, turn, (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 14: Sl 1, p until 3 sts rem, p enc, turn, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 15: Sl 1, k until 3 sts rem, k enc, turn, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 16: Sl 1, p until 2 sts rem, p enc, turn, (1 st rem unwkd)
Row 17: Sl 1, k until 2 sts rem, k enc, turn, (1 st rem unwkd)
Row 18: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc because you are at the end of the row, turn,
Row 19: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, because you are at the end of the row. Do not turn because you are at the end of the
short rows. Remove the slip knot. Knit the stitches from the circular needle. Bring yarn tail forward, to mark the start of each
round.
Rounds 1-13: Switch to Y2. knit all 40 sts,
Round 14: Knit first 20 sts. Use circular needle knit the rem 20 sts.

Snout (nose): Switch to Y1. Work short rows on 2 DPN with only 20 sts. Ignore the sts on the circular needle for now.
Row 1: k 2, KFB 4 times, k until the last six stitches of the round, KFB 4 times, k2, turn, (28 sts)
Row 2: Sl 1, p until 1 st rem, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts rem, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts rem, turn,
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 3 sts rem, turn,
Row 6: Sl 1, p until 3 sts rem, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k until 4 sts rem, turn,
Row 8: Sl 1, p until 4 sts rem, turn,
Row 9: Sl 1, k until 5 sts rem, turn,
Row 10: Sl 1 p until 5 sts rem, turn,
Row 11: Sl 1, k until 6 sts rem, turn,
Row 12: Sl 1, p until 6 sts rem, turn,
Row 13: Sl 1, k until 7 sts rem, turn,
Row 14: Sl 1, p until 7 sts rem, turn,
Row 15: Sl 1, k until 8 sts rem, k enc, turn, (7 sts rem unwkd)
Row 16: Sl 1, p until 7 sts rem, p enc, turn, (6 sts rem unwkd)
Row 17: Sl 1, k until 7 sts rem, k enc, turn, (6 sts rem unwkd)
Row 18: Sl 1, p until 6 sts rem, p enc, turn, (5 sts rem unwkd)
Row 19: Sl 1, k until 6 sts rem, k enc, turn, (5 sts rem unwkd)
Row 20: Sl 1, p until 5 sts rem, p enc, turn, (4 sts rem unwkd)
Row 21: Sl 1, k until 5 sts rem, k enc, turn, (4 sts rem unwkd)
Row 22: Sl 1, p until 4 sts rem, p enc, turn, (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 23: Sl 1, k until 4 sts rem, k enc, turn, (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 24: Sl 1, p until 3 sts rem, p enc, turn, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 25: Sl 1, k until 3 sts rem, k enc, turn, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 26: Sl 1, p until 2 sts rem, p enc (lifted stitch is Y2 & comes from below the 1st st on circular needle) turn, (1 sts rem
unwkd)
Row 27: Sl 1, k until 2 sts rem, k enc (lifted stitch is Y2 & comes from below the 1st st on circular needle) turn, (1 sts rem
unwkd)
Row 28: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc because you are at the end of the row, turn,
Row 29: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc because you are at the end of the row, do not turn because you are at the end of the
short rows. Working yarn is now on the left, opposite of where it was at the beginning. Switch to Y2. Resume use of DPN’s to
knit 10 sts from the circular needle. You should now be at the back of the head for the beginning of each round.

Head continued: Round 15: k12 (10 sts rem on circular needle), k2tog four times, k8, k2tog 4 times, k12 (40 sts)
Round 16: knit all sts
Round 17: k8, k2tog twice, k16, k2tog twice, k8 (36 sts)
Rounds 18: knit all sts
© 2010 Mybootee Boutique Rev. 4/13/2010 3
 Round 19: k7, k2tog, (k2, k2tog) 5 times, k7 (30 sts)
Round 20: knit all sts
Round 21: k6, k2tog twice, (k2, k2tog) 3 times, k2tog, k6 (24 sts). You now have what looks like a really short fat sock with a
white heel and white toe.
Rounds 22 & 23: Knit all sts

Body: Round 24: k4, m1, k until 4 rem, m1, k4 (26 sts)
Round 25: k4, m1, k8, m1, k2, m1, k8, m1, k4 (30 sts)
Round 26: knit all sts
Round 27: k4, attach 1st arm. To do this, slip 1st arm onto a DPN so it's easier to work with. Hold the needle with the arm on it
(purl side facing you) in front of the needle with the body on it (knit side facing you). Consolidate (see sts instructions) next 8
sts with the arm k6, consolidate the next 8 stitches with the 2nd arm, k4.
Round 28: knit all sts. You can now weave in loose ends from arms if you like.
Round 29: k5, m1, k until 5 sts rem, m1, k5 (32 sts)
Round 30: k5, m1, k10, m1, k2, m1, k10, m1, k5 (36 sts)
Round 31: knit all sts
Round 32: k6, m1, k until 6 sts rem, m1, k6 (38 sts)
Round 33: k6, m1, k12, m1, k2, m1, k12, m1, k6 (42 sts)
Round 34: knit all sts
Round 35: k7, m1, k until 7 sts rem, m1, k7 (44 sts)
Round 36: k7, m1, k14, m1, k2, m1, k14, m1, k7 (48 sts)
Round 37: knit all sts
Round 38: k8, m1, k15, m1, k2, m1, k16, m1, k8 (52 sts)
Rounds 39-56: knit all sts
Round 57: knit until 2 sts rem, consolidate next 4 sts with the tail.
Round 58: knit rem 50 sts
Round 59: knit all sts. This is a good time to stuff the upper portion of the body. Do not stuff too close to the needles because it will
become difficult to knit as you close this guy up.
Round 60: k15, consolidate the next 10 sts with 1st leg, k2, consolidate next 10 sts with 2nd leg, k15
Round 61: Switch to Y1, knit all sts. You can now weave in loose ends from arms if you like.
Round 62: k16, k2tog tbl, (k4, k2tog, tbl) x 3, k16 (48 sts)
Round 63: knit all sts
Round 64: k3, (k2tog tbl, k6) x 5, k2tog tbl, k3 (42 sts)
Round 65: knit all sts
Round 66: k3, k2tog tbl, (k5, k2tog tbl) x 5, k2 (36 sts)
Round 67: k2, (k2tog tbl, k4) x 5, k2tog tbl, k2 (30 sts)
Round 68: k2, k2tog tbl, (k3, k2tog tbl) x 5, k1 (24 sts)
Round 69: k1, (k2tog tbl, k2) x 5, k2tog tbl, k1 (18 sts)
Round 70: (k1, k2tog tbl) x 6 (12 sts)
Round 71: k2tog tbl x 6, (6 sts) Cut yarn leaving enough to tie off, and using a tapestry needle thread it through all sts but do
not pull tight yet. Finish filling with fiber-fill until you are satisfied with the shape and firmness, pull tight & tie off. Weave in
any loose ends.
Eyes: Using Y1, CO 16 sts, join ends and knit in the round,
Round 1: knit all sts,
Round 2: (k2tog) x 8,
Cut yarn leaving a 6-inch tail and using a tapestry needle thread it through the stitches, removing them from the knitting
needles as you go. Pull tight enough to close any gap, pass the needle from front to back through the center of the eye, then
through the head at the point where you’d like the eyes to be centered. This tacks the eye into place a little so that you can
stitch it into place with a needle and thread.

© 2010 Mybootee Boutique Rev. 4/13/2010 4

 Ears (make 2):
Using Y2 and the Turkish Cast On Method (see stitch instructions), CO 24, turn *Don’t forget to purl a row. The slip knot does
not count as one of your stitches. Work short rows on 2 DPNs with only 12 sts.
Row 1: Sl 1, k until 1 st rem, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until 1 st rem, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts rem, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts rem, turn,
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 3 sts rem, turn,
Row 6: Sl 1, p until 3 sts rem, p enc, turn, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 7: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain, k enc, turn, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 8: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc, turn, (1 st rem unwkd)
Row 9: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc, turn, (1 st rem unwkd)
Row 10: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc because you are at the end of the row, turn,
Row 11: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc because you are at the end of the row. Do not turn because you are at the end of the
short rows.
Rounds 1-3: knit all sts,
Divide stitches evenly onto two DP needles, Stuff the ears with a little poly fill and consolidate as you did for the legs and
arms. You now have 12 live stitches. Cut yarn to leave about 12 inches of yarn to secure the ears to the head along the
column of stitches that lead from the edge of the snout to the top of the head. There should be about 14 and you can just
stitch them into place as evenly as possible. *I like to work with two sts at a time. Run the through the first two stitches on the ear, then through
the first two sts on the head. Then just repeat this and tie off.*

Row 61: sl1, p until 2 sts rem, p enc, turn, (1 st rem unwkd)
Row 62: sl1, k until 2 sts rem, k enc, turn, (1 sts rem unwkd)
Row 63: sl1, p rem sts, turn. You now have a double sided fabric point.
Row 64: sl1, k rem sts. Pick up 1 st along the bias edge of the first part of the ear. (15 sts)
Row 65: p2tog, p rem sts, pick up 1 st along the bias edge of the first part of the ear. (15 sts)
*Row 66: k2tog, k rem sts, pick up 1 st along the bias edge of the first part of the ear. (15 sts)
Row 67: p2tog, p rem sts, pick up 1 st along the bias edge of the first part of the ear. (15 sts)*
Rows 68-89: Repeat from * to * 11 more times.
Row 90: k2tog, k1, k2tog, knit until 4 sts rem, k2tog, k2, pick up 1 st along the bias edge of the first part of the ear. (13 sts)
Row 91: p2tog, p rem sts, turn, (12 sts)
Row 92: k2tog, k1, k2tog, knit until 4 sts rem, k2tog, k2, pick up 1 st along the bias edge of the first part of the ear. (11 sts)
Row 93: p2tog, p rem sts, turn, (10 sts)
Row 94: k2tog, k1, k2tog, knit until 4 sts rem, k2tog, k2, pick up 1 st along the bias edge of the first part of the ear. (9 sts)
Row 95: p2tog, p rem sts, turn, (8 sts)
Cut the yarn leaving enough length that you can use it to secure the ear to the head. At the top of the head you’ll see to subtle
lines that formed along the increase decrease lines. Secure each ear along these lines.

Finishing
Use a Basic Chain stitch to embroider on the mouth, eyebrows, and nostrils. Use a Star Stitch to finish the eyes. Voila! You
have your very own Sock Monkee 2.1!

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