20WAFINAL

AE
TH

18RDSISTS
The Grand
Canyon
The great American
landscape

Antonio
Mellino
The interview
Muscat
Magic Giraffe
A jewel in the crown
Manor
Safari so good!
John
Burton-Race Rome’s Top
Globe-trotting chef
Ten cafés
Aroma therapy in
MOUTH-WATERING RECIPES TO TEMPT EVERY PALATE

VEGETARIAN
the eternal city

VOL 4 ISS 11

MASTERCLASS
Ireland Juan Pablo Rey Nores The Seychelles Tofu Cyprus
 Why make coffee
when you can

The new Nespresso Creatista lets

you enjoy café-style quality coffee.
With a fully-automatic steam wand, you
can now create perfectly textured milk set
to your preferred temperature, at home.

Made by

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Editor Charlie Thompson
Associate Editor Ali Ahmed
Art Director Rebecca Teece Paye
Art Editor Maggie Bonner
Review Editor Mona Mohammed
Online Editor Husain Khaled
Social Media Editor Mary Ann Parungao
Features Editor Nick Baines
Consulting Editor Sarah Price
Contributing Editor Adrian Back
Contributing Editor Anthea Rowan
Editor-at-Large Marie Barbieri
Editor-at-Large Kevin Pilley
Feature Correspondent Louise Quick
Feature Correspondent Jesper Jensen
Feature Correspondent Joe Worthington
Director of Publishing Francesca Jackson
Executive Director Salah Alhaiki
Account Director Oliver Davies

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Experience the taste
General Enquiries
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Food and Travel, UK

Mark Sansom, editor
mark.sansom@foodandtravel.com

I
Food and Travel, Germany n the Middle East, we are now amongst the world’s most adventurous
Stefanie Will, editor travellers and gastronomers. Horizons are broad, tastes eclectic.
stefanie.will@foodandtravel.com Every month, Food and Travel Arabia brings these two naturally
Food and Travel, Mexico complimentary interests together in a single magazine. Food and
Cecilia Núñez, editor
cecilia.nunez@lyrsa.com.mx
Travel Arabia is about adventure, the quest for new foods and new
Food and Travel, Turkey flavours, and the discovery of new places and new friends.
Mehmet Tel, editor Our best travel and food writers have been briefed to search the world for
mehmet.tel@foodandtravel.com.tr exciting destinations, the latest restaurants and the finest cooking. The
Food and Travel, Italy result is award winning editorial covering the world’s favourite pastimes -
Marco Sutter, publisher
publisher@foodandtravelitalia.com
food, drink and travel. Every month we get up close and personal with some
Food and Travel, Portugal of the region’s kitchen favourites to talk seasonal produce and personal
Jose Fragoso, publisher culinary development, inspiration and of course key interviews. Our expert
jose.fragoso@foodandtravel.com.pt team seeks out gastronomic gems in some of the world’s most exciting
destinations marrying food and travel in beautifully photographed features
to whet your appetite. Get the low down on the latest in haute cuisine with
WINNER expert opinion and insights from some of the world’s most talented award
PPA Independent Publishing Company of the Year winning and Michelin Starred chefs. Read honest and independent hotel and
WINNER restaurant reviews from around the region and around the world; Recreate
PPA Publisher of the Year the chefs’ favourite dishes at home from our detailed recipe section and
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FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 3

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68 72
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6 FOOD & TRAVEL

38
 November 2017
ARRIVALS
8 News This month we visit the
region’s latest places to stay
and eat
18 The Food and Travel Awards
It’s that time – discover who has
made the final expert judging
round of the 2018 Awards
TALK
12 The interview Antonio Mellino,
with more than 40 years’
experience and two Michelin
stars, he had earned a reputation
as one of the finest exponents of
Italian food
60 Chef talk Juan Pablo Rey
Nores, Head Chef Gaucho Dubai
tells us how he made the move
from front of house to the kitchen
98 The last word John Burton-
Race, the globetrotting chef
found home in Devon, by way
Asia, France and the Middle East
TRAVEL
26 Aroma therapy in the
eternal city Rome is full of
amazing art and architecture...
and great coffee shops. Food
and Travel has found ten top
spots to get your perfect
caffeine fix
34 Safari, so good Giraffe Manor
sounds like something out of
a fairy tale: magical, enchanting
and just past the realms of
possibility. And yet it’s very real
indeed
38 Sláinte! Anthea Rowan take
us on culinary journey to visit a
few of the Emerald Isle’s latest
Michelin-starred eateries and more
72 River Deep, Canyon High
Between Arizona and Nevada,
the grand American landscape
showcases carving canyons,
picturesque lakes and
imposing dams
63 Hershey railway A tour of
Cuba’s only electric railroad
FOOD
20 The pantry We discover tasty
recipes for tofu and the delights
of the sweet potato
78 Vegetarian masterclass
Celebrate World Vegetarian Day
with mouth-watering recipes to
tempt every palate
92 Recipes This month’s collection
of mouth-watering recipes for
you to try at home
DESTINATIONS
42 Muscat magic A visit to one of
jewels of Oman; The Chedi
46 Mountain high Luxury on
the peaks - Anantara Al Jabal Al
Akhdar Resort
52 Your own little piece of
Paradise The Seychelles; white
powdery sand, balmy waters,
verdant green mangroves and
the warm embrace of a golden
sun!
68 Nicosia Cyprus Discover a city
steeped in history, rich in culture
and with a passion for food
TRIED & TASTED
87 Gaucho Dubai Fine dining
Argentinian style
88 Places to eat Celebrate Thai
style, enjoy Cuban fusion in
Bahrain, savour seafood in Bali
and visit a clandestine
Kensington classic
90 Places to stay Maldivian luxury,
creative cool in Miami, London
chic, live like a Sultan in Dubai,
and pamper yourself in
Cambodia
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 7
 T
he world-renowned Monte Carlo Jazz Festival is now in
its 12th year and is a celebration of both up and coming
talents and the biggest names in jazz; hosting the
greatest musicians of the current era, the most celebrated
contemporary jazz voices and the all-time greatest soloists
for the opening night, the Monte-Carlo Jazz Festival 2017
has chosen musical legend Marcus Miller, who will
present extracts from his brand-new album; sharing
the bill with Cory Henry & The Funk Apostles. From
Tuesday to Saturday, the greatest jazz artists of our
time will take to the stage to entertain and inspire,
with talents including Stacey Kent, Dhafer Youssef,
Chick Corea and Steve Gadd with their project The
Corea / Gadd Band. As always, the Monte-Carlo
Jazz Festival also offers the opportunity to
discover the jazz stars of tomorrow’s,
such as the fabulously feminine
trio Sirius Plan, James Carter’s
Elektrik Outlet and thrilling
new faces including Laurent
Coulondre. The festival will
close with Scott Bradlee’s
Postmodern Jukebox,
and The Puppini Sisters,
considered the best
close harmony group in

New
the world. To discover
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8 FOOD & TRAVEL

AFTERNOON TEA AT THE LOUNGE Dubai
If you are a lover of afternoon tea then prepare yourself for a rare treat at the
Address Boulevard, where you will be greeted by welcome drinks and
delicious mini fruit tarts which are just a precursor for what is to come. Set in
the luxurious surroundings of The Lounge afternoon tea is served the Address
Boulevard’s own inimitable way; a beautifully crafted mini-chest of drawers
filled with four layers of decadent delights. The first layer offers sinful pleasures
of sweets and chocolate caviar. The second layer offers exciting sandwiches
such as salmon or Bresaola, and for Burrata lovers, mini versions set to tempt
any palate. Of course, no traditional afternoon tea would be complete without
freshly baked scones and lashings of cream and succulent jams. Choose
from a selection of teas and coffees to accompany your perfect afternoon.
Afternoon Tea is served from 2:30pm to 6pm, daily. Priced at $39pp, for
reservations or more information contact +971 4 888 3444 or email dine@
emaar.com
YSL & Royal Mansour Marrakech
A museum devoted to the work of the legendary fashion designer, Yves Saint
Laurent recently opened its doors to the public in Marrakech. To celebrate, Royal
Mansour is offering a special YSL Museum Package, which includes a two night
stay in a Superior Riad, a fine-dining experience at La Grande Table Marocaine
and complimentary access to the Yves Saint Laurent Museum, Berber Museum
and famous Jardin Majorelle. Situated on Rue Yves Saint Laurent, beside the
renowned Jardin Majorelle, the new YSL Museum houses an important selection
from the Fondation Pierre Berg – Yves Saint Laurent’s impressive collection,
which comprises 5,000 items of clothing, 15,000 haute couture accessories as
well as tens of thousands of sketches and assorted objects. If you would like to
extend the experience and discover more about the legendary designer, Royal
Mansour can arrange a private guided tour of the beautiful Villa Oasis, shared by
Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berg, for a donation of $2,550 to the Yves Saint
Laurent Foundation. The Royal Mansour YSL package starts from $2,760 per
stay, including two nights in a Superior One-Bedroom Riad (1,500sqft) for two
people, daily breakfast served at La Table or in your room. The offer also includes
free access to YSL Museum, Berber Museum and Majorelle Gardens, a dinner at
La Grande Table Marocaine, fast track service upon arrival and departure at
Marrakech Airport, and private transfers from and to Marrakech Airport. The offer
is valid until 27th December 2017. For more information visit www.royalmansour.
com or call +212 529 80 80 80
Arrivals
NEWS
Q’S BAR DUBAI
With a stellar career spanning six decades, music
legend Quincy Jones has worked with some of
world’s greatest artistes, including Frank Sinatra, Amy
Winehouse, Ray Charles, Whitney Houston, Chaka
Khan and of course, Michael Jackson. His haul of
awards is unparalleled with twenty-seven Grammys,
seven Academy Award nominations, an Emmy, a
Tony, and induction into the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame;
and now you can share his legacy in the intimate
setting of Q’s Bar and Lounge at Palazzo Versace
Dubai. Starting October 31 through January 6 2018,
Q’s welcomes Eli Teplin, a classically trained
musician, songwriter, who began performing in
Nashville and then Los Angeles after being
discovered and signed by Quincy Jones; the next
musical resident at Q’s. The talented 25-year-old
singer-songwriter draws inspiration from the likes of
John Mayer, Brian Wilson, Bruce Hornsby and Billy
Joel, whilst following his own style of music. Visit the
intimate living-room space at Q’s; deep plush furniture
and dark mahogany tables surround the small stage.
Savour some of Dubai’s best comfort food inspired
by the culinary heritage of New York and New
Orleans, along with an extensive selection of rare
beverages as you kick-back and enjoy the many
talents of some of the world’s most gifted musicians.
Q’s is open Tuesday to Saturday from 7pm until 2am.
For more information call +971 4 556 8865 or visit
palazzoversacedubai.com
CAVALLI CLUB DUBAI
Cavalli Club has launched a new menu created by
talented Italian chef Francesco Pescatore, which is set
to elevate the dining experience at Cavalli to a new
level. The new menu includes dishes such as octopus,
pumpkin and pecorino sauce, crab ravioli, peas and
cherry tomato, black truffle risotto, slow cooked lamb
saddle, polenta and sautéed baby vegetables, black
cod, smoked celeriac pure and extra virgin olive oil
foam, sous-vide duck breast, beetroot mash and girolle
mushrooms, Tomahawk of Wagyu beef, and simple
classics such as whole lobster served plain grilled or
perhaps with a salad or risotto; and of course a
delightful choice of your favourite Italian desserts. The
club will also play host to some of the best
entertainment in the region. The Midnight Brunch
Dinner show on Sundays and Wednesday’s Midnight
Brunch Rosay Edition will include live entertainment
whilst you enjoy a delightful meal. dubai.cavalliclub.com
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 9
 Arrivals
NEWS
Great British Street Party Dubai
DUKES Dubai is set to bring the traditional Great British Street
Party to Palm Jumeirah on November 18. Union Jack flags will
be flying throughout the resort and two giant tables, measuring
1,000ft in total, will stretch from one end to the other. Tuck into
your favourite British culinary delights; ‘bottomless’ picnic
baskets will be filled to the brim with sausage rolls, quiche,
sliced roast beef, Scotch Eggs and pickles to name but a few
choices. While those with a sweet tooth can enjoy traditional
sherry trifle or delve right in and make your own Eton Mess. In
addition to the unlimited supply of food and drink what street
party would be complete with music; a live DJ will fill the air with
great British classics from the likes of The Beatles and Rolling
Stones, to Oasis, Pulp, Blur, Adele and Ed Sheeran. The Great
British Street Party is on Saturday November 18th at DUKES
Dubai on Palm Jumeirah from 1pm to 5pm. Priced at $125pp,
for more information call +971 4 455 1111 or streetparty@
dukeshotel.com
KONA GRILL DUBAI
Direct from Scottsdale, Arizona, Kona Grill brings its signature blend of
fresh flavours and global favourites to the heart of Dubai. Offering a
variety of modern delicacies prepared in its madefromscratch kitchen,
Kona Grill is renowned for its award-winning sushi, varied American
menu options, and specialty drinks to mark every occasion. America’s
fastest growing restaurant brand is set to make its mark as the city’s
new ‘place to be’ with its chic casual setting; perfect for a business
lunch, intimate dinner or celebration. Classy, comfortable, quaint and
clamorous, Kona offers the ideal family spot or night out in town with
friends. Located at the newly developed bustling waterfront at Marsa
Al Seef, Kona Grill serves refined contemporary dishes that build
exceptional experiences and great foodie memories.Kona is open
Sunday thru Saturday from 11am to midnight; for more information
reservations@konagrill.ae or visit konagrill.ae
10 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
ULTIMATE LUXURY TRAVEL
NetJets, the world’s largest private aviation company has joined
forces with leading hotelier Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts to
offer the ultimate luxury travel experience. This innovative new
initiative aims to set new standards for service by introducing
exclusive travel opportunities to both NetJet owners and Four
Seasons guests alike. There are three uniquely designed
itineraries –entirely customisable to suit traveller preferences -
you will be transported via a NetJets private jet to Four Seasons
destinations, where you be able to enjoy a series of exclusive
experiences. Choose from a winter mountain adventure on the
soaring slopes of Jackson Hole and Vail, a tropical escape to
the unspoiled Hawaiian island of Lanai, or a cultural immersion in
France and Italy. Throughout you journey, air transportation will
be arranged by NetJets, while Four Seasons will provide all
accommodations and a dedicated concierge to customise your
local itinerary. Timing is flexible, and available for parties of up to
14 people – ideal for families, couples seeking a romantic
getaway, or friends travelling together. For that ultimate
experience travel with true peace of mind, and never having to
worry NetJets and Four Seasons offer the last word in luxury
travel. For more information visit www.netjets.com or www.
fourseasons.com
EMIRATES PALACE ABU DHABI
Emirates Palace has taken the sting out of extending your stay;
but with their new Stay Longer package you can enjoy great rates
and bigger savings the longer you stay. If you stay three to six
nights you will enjoy 20% off the flexible rate. Extend your stay to
seven nights or more and enjoy 25% off the flexible rate, inclusive
of buffet breakfast for two. Upon booking one of our suites, you
will also receive complimentary Palace Lounge access and airport
transfers from and to Abu Dhabi International Airport. The offer is
available until November 30, 2017. To find out more about
reservation and terms and conditions call +971 2 690 8888 or
visit www.emiratespalace.ae

TRUFFLE IN PARADISE UAE
The World Alba White Truffle Auction will be hosted in the GCC
for the first time in its 18-year history this November. The charity
auction will be held at Le Meridien Dubai Hotel and Conference
Centre on November 12, which will be held concurrently with the
Grinzane Castle in Alba, Italy (the historical location of the auction)
and Hong Kong, linked by satellite and broadcast worldwide. Last
year the auction, which linked Philadelphia and Hong Kong with
Alba, sold a twin truffle weighing 1.17kg to Chinese chef, Zhenxiang
Dong for $118,000; a big slice of the $530,000 raised on the night.
Attracting connoisseurs from across the globe, this year’s auction is
expected to raise over $600,000, the proceeds going to the Al Jalila
Foundation - a not-for-profit organization established by HH Sheikh
Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum. Five truffles will be sold with
a final, signature truffle being sold by Alba to worldwide bidders,
which is expected to break the record as the most expensive truffle
ever sold. Each of the five truffles on auction are linked to a local
Dubai restaurant, who will offer the winning bidders an exclusive
dining experience for eight people as part of their purchase; as well
as having their purchase prepared and served by a renowned chef
such as Gary Rhodes or Reif Othman. The auction will be held in The
Great Ballroom on Sunday November 12 at 4pm.
AL FRESCO SEASON ABU DHABI
Now that the hot weather has abated, and outdoor season has arrived Four
Seasons Hotel Abu Dhabi at Al Maryah Island is celebrating Al fresco
Season with a selection of culinary journeys from fine dining and brunches to
casual fare and cocktails on the terrace. 1920’s Chicago steakhouse
Butcher & Still is offering its new lunch menu, with favourites such as the
Double Double Cheeseburger, Prime Rib Dip, and the Crab Cake BLT.
Weekend brunches are back at Cafe Milano available from 12pm to 4pm on
Fridays and Saturdays; prices start at $63pp incl. soft drinks. Visit the
Eclipse Terrace Lounge and enjoy innovative cocktails, fresh perspectives on
ocean-inspired cuisine, and a laidback atmosphere. As the warm glow of
the sun begins to fade into the Arabian Gulf, relax with friends and family;
from 5pm to 9pm daily, draught hops starting from $8 and a selection of
cocktails and grapes from $10. As the evening unfolds world-class DJ
Renee Jones will set the tone for late-nights spent enjoying the city lights.
www.fourseasons.com/abudhabi
Arrivals
NEWS
THE ART OF COCOONING PARIS
To help you face winter with great serenity, Le Royal
Monceau Raffles Paris and its Spa My Blend by Clarins
are offering their new My Royal Cocooning package,
entirely devoted to your comfort and wellbeing. The My
Royal Cocooning package includes: a 1hour yoga class,
a massage, a onehour Clarins body treatment or a
30minute Clarins face treatment, Spa access (which
includes use of the swimming pool, sauna, hammam,
fitness centre), a beauty case with 3 travelsize Clarins or
My Blend products, and a tasty treat at the hotel’s Bar
Long – one hot beverage and one Pierre Hermé pastry.
The ‘My Royal Cocooning package’ is exclusively available
at the Spa My Blend by Clarins from December 1, 2017
to March 31 2018, priced at $395pp. For more
information visit www.leroyalmonceau.com e-mail bookus.
paris@raffles.com or call +33 1 42 99 98 81
BUSINESS LUNCH UAE
If you are looking for a quick, delicious and affordable
business lunch then look no further than 7Elephants Dubai,
newly reopened in DIFC. The new business lunch menu
offers a taste of the world, filled with favourites from their 7
international cuisines selection. There is something for
everyone. From fresh prawns sautéed in white grape with a
spicy garlic kick to create Spain’s famous Gambas Al Ajillo,
to the art of making the juiciest Angus Burger made with a
170g of Black Angus Beef Patty. Each ingredient is
handpicked to create a delicious meal, topped off with a
light fruit platter dessert. Whether you’re a mogul planning
for a business lunch meeting, someone looking fpr quick
escape from the office chaos, or a certified foodie who
simply appreciates an authentically delicious meal,
7Elephants Dubai’s upgraded Business Lunch will sate the
most discerning of appetites. The business lunch is
available between 12 noon and 4pm daily. Main courses
start at $14. For more information call +971 4 354 4354 or
e-mail Reservations@7elephantsdubai.com
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 11
 This spread: Chef Antonio Mellino
in the kitchen at Quatro Passi

Antonio
.
Mellino
Having spent more than 40 years working in the restaurant business,
achieved two Michelin stars, and earned a reputation as one of the finest
exponents of Italian food, acclaimed chef Antonio Mellino could be forgiven
for seeking an extremely well-earned break from the culinary arts

12 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

THE INTERVIEW
ANTONIO MELLINO

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 13

 THE INTERVIEW
ANTONIO MELLINO
et after spending a few hours in the company of the Italian
Y chef it is clear that his passion for food is boundless.
Mellino is hugely engaging and boasts an infectious smile
as he reminisces on an extraordinary career that has seen him go
from working on cruise ships to owning renowned restaurants in
Nerano, London and Dubai.
Known for his meticulous attention to detail and creating dishes
of rare beauty and vibrancy, Mellino has taken Italian fine dining to
new heights. Yet his philosophy is a simple one as he states that
“ingredients must speak for themselves”.
Mellino strongly believes that it is the ingredients that hold the
key to achieving delectable dishes. In his mind food needs to be
prepared simply and skilfully. This belief can be traced back to
his childhood when the Mellino
family would gather around
the table and enjoy fresh fish
“Known for his meticulous attention
caught by Antonio’s father, to detail and creating dishes of rare
Raffaele, and prepared by his
mother, Flora. beauty, Mellino has taken Italian
“Cooking is definitely a
family passion and I first got to ÄULKPUPUN[VUL^OLPNO[Z¹
know the role of the kitchen by
watching my mum prepare big family meals,” says Mellino. “We
were a big family and on Sunday everyone would come home
and my mum cooked for everybody. It was very simply food, so
normally pasta with ragù.
“But we also ate lots of fish as my father was a fisherman. In fact,
all the family worked in the fishing industry so we would sell some
of it, but always keep some back that we could eat ourselves. We
would have the most amazing fish at least fives days a week and
we also had our own vegetables that I still use to this day in my
restaurant. I was very lucky that Nerano was so famous for having
lots of fresh ingredients.”
Developing a love of food from his family, Mellino would hone
his skills in Naples after enrolling in culinary school. Following his
14 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
This page: A selection of dishes from Quattro Passi.
Opposite page: Close-up of a seafood dish
graduation in 1974 he chose a rather unlikely next step, working
on huge cruise liners touring the Caribbean.
It may seem a strange place to cut your culinary teeth, but
Mellino insists that the years he spent on the ships helped him
improve his skills inside the kitchen and learn valuable lessons in
regards to running a successful business.
“The ship was a very good school for me because there
were a lot of different cuisines,” remembers Mellino. “It was a
very important first step as it made me ready to open my own
business. Over there it was a like a city on the sea so you had so
many ingredients to work with. I grew up on those ships and it was
a real eye opener.
“I saw how the big machine works as we were feeding huge
amounts of people every day.
So it was a real learning curve
and it definitely taught me lots
of lessons for when I opened
my first small restaurant. But it
also taught me that even on a
large scale the best idea was
to keep things simple and not
over complicated.”
Armed with new knowledge and confident he could run his own
restaurant, Mellino returned to his home town of Nerano and in
1983 was able to open Quattro Passi. Located on the stunning
Amalfi Coast, he chose to use the local ingredients that he knew
so well and designed a menu full of traditional dishes.
Staying true to his philosophy the focus was on simplicity.
Therefore, products from his own garden would be used as would
seafood caught by the local fisherman. But what would quickly
stand out to all those dining in the restaurant was Mellino’s ability
to create visually stimulating dishes that simultaneously delivered
with intense flavours.
“First you see the food so you need to see good things,” he
explains. “I hate seeing a big mess on the plate so you have to
think about the presentation and of course the taste. These two
have to go together. So when I organise a dish I think about the
various elements and not only how the will taste together, but how
they will appear on the plate.
“I also prefer to only have two or three things maximum. And that
is because if I am cooking fish then I want to taste the fish. I don’t
need 20 different creams, no, not at all. If you buy the best fish
there is no sense to touch it to much, the simpler it is, the more
you will taste and enjoy it.”
Not only did customers rave about the food on offer at Quattro
Passi but critics were similarly enthralled. The restaurant still holds
two Michelin stars, though Mellino places more emphasis on the
opinions of his customers than he does those judging the awards.
“In my opinion you do this work because you love it,” states
Mellino. “It’s not about the awards and the business side, I cook
because I love to cook. The world is so small now thanks to the
internet and social media so you cannot worry too much about
what people write.
“For me, the best thing I can see is a clean plate. That tells me
everything I need to know about my food. If a guest leaves food
on the plate you worry that they didn’t like it rather than them just
being full. But ultimately everything I do is with a lot of heart and
passion, and I think people understand that.
“I do not cook for money; it is purely because I love it. So in my
opinion you have to enjoy what you do and not worry so much
about how others view your food.”
It is clear that Mellino’s love for food has not waned in the slightest
in the last four decades. Just three years ago he launched Quattro
Passi London in Mayfair, and recently has been in the United Arab
Emirates where a third chain of the restaurant has opened at the
FIVE Palm Jumeirah, Dubai.
As with the launch in London, the veteran chef was hands on
when it came to making sure every single detail lived up to his
exacting standards in Dubai. Mellino designed the kitchen, helped
to train the staff and of course perfect the menu.
And though he will not be spending all of his time in Dubai, he
is making himself readily available to help with every aspect of the
restaurant. “I was here in the beginning to organise the kitchen,
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 15
 THE INTERVIEW
ANTONIO MELLINO
This page, left to right: Chef Antonio Mellino at Quattro Passi; The Pass in Kitchen at Quattro Passi
“When I organise a dish I think about the various elements and not only
how the will taste together, but how they will appear on the plate”
design it and train the staff. And I just seem to keep coming back
despite talking to the guys who work for me every single night.
“They send me reports and we talk on the phone every couple
of days. But I still enjoy coming to the restaurant and being hands
on. Every opportunity to come to Dubai I take it as I like to change
the menu slightly with the seasons. Luckily you can find almost
anything in Dubai now so we are working with great produce.
“There are also a lot of Italian suppliers here and I also have
a friend in Portugal who is sending me all the best produce. So
every chance I have to come here I take as I love tasting new items
and making changes to the menu. And now if for some reason I
can’t come, one of my sons can come instead.”
Like their father, both Raffaele and Fabrizio have fallen in love with
food. Both trained as chefs and embraced the family business.
And if there is one thing that rivals Antonio’s passion for food, it is
his excitement at being able to work alongside his sons.
“Raffaele is in Miami and Fabrizio is back in Italy,” Mellino says
with a glint in his eye. “It is a privilege that my sons do the same
work as me and I am very proud of both of them. The younger
Fabrizio trained in Lyon in France and has worked with a lot of big
chefs. But we can’t be together all the time as we argue to much.
With a huge smile, Mellino adds: “We fight all the time but it
is good. It happens in every family and he wants to do his own
things. Plus he is too much French because he trained there. He
is working 20 hours because that is the French mentality, it is very
strict and straight. In Italy we are more relaxed and we like to take
a coffee break and then lunch, these can last three hours. But I am
truly very happy and proud of both of my sons.”
Yet despite having two talented sons, a trio of successful
restaurants and fast approaching 50 years of culinary experience,
Mellino has no intention of slowing down or becoming less hands
16 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
on. He readily admits that food is always on his mind and he
cannot help but conjure up new dishes.
Even during his trip to Dubai there has been no time for relaxing,
instead he has been working tirelessly with his team as he makes
sure every dish meets his exacting standards.
“I have only been here two or three days and I am already
thinking of changes to the menu,” admits Mellino. “I am always
thinking about food and I love still being involved in every aspect
of the machine because who knows for how many more years I
can do this.
“But I have spent all my life in the kitchen so at my age we have
to start giving someone else a chance. You have to have trust in
people and it is time for a new generation. Luckily I have trust in my
sons and the people I work with. I can explain things to them that
I want and I like giving them the chance to grow.”
But for now both Raffaele and Fabrizio know that their hard
working father is still the top chef in the family. And despite some
heated discussions around the family table back in Italy, it is
Antonio who still knows best.
“When we are all home and all three of us are cooking, we talk
about everything from the food to the restaurants to the whole
business,” says Mellino. “We talk, we fight, but ultimately I am very
proud as they are both very smart and intelligent guys.
“I have passed down all my experience to them and it is gold,
the same as putting money in the bank. This way I know that my
Words: Adrian Back
story will continue and it will stay in the family.” And with one final
smile he adds: “I think I was very smart to create this team.”
It certainly seems the legacy of Quattro Passi is in safe hands
and the family’s passion for ‘simple’ cooking will never diminish.
And that can only be good news for all those fortunate enough to
taste Mellino’s food whether in Nerano, London or Dubai.
18 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
 FOOD & TRAVEL
AWARDS 2018

You have truly made your voice heard this year with almost two million votes cast
across the Gulf for this year’s GCC Food and Travel Awards - now discover who
has made the finals!

ater this month we announce the finalists for 2018 VISIT

L GCC Food & Travel Awards
Over the last few months almost two million of you
have inundated us with votes for your favourite hotels,
www.foodandtravel.me
www.gcctourismawards.com
restaurants, chefs, and airlines in the GCC Food and Travel
Awards and you have truly made you voices heard
So see if your favourite hotel or restaurant has made the to discover who has
finals to be judged by the expert panel. made the finals in
The winners will announced at the Awards Gala Ceremony
in March 2018. each category
A big thanks to you all for your votes and valuable feedback

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 19

 Pantry
THE

PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING: SUKAINA RAJABALI

WORDS, RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: SARAH PRICE

20 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

KEY
Tofu
IN GR EDI EN T:
CRISPY 5 SPICE TOFU
RECIPES START ON PAGE 92
e’re making a statement, putting
W the idea out there and calling an
end to tofu being pushed to the
side-lines. The much-maligned ingredient is
all too often dismissed as being sad, soggy
and downright bland. And yet treated the
right way, it’s a perfect pillowy-white vehicle
for flavour, with a pleasing texture to boot.
So listen up: now really is the time for bean
curd to shine and to help it on its way,
consider this an ode (with a couple of
supporting recipes) to healthy, budget-
friendly, wonderfully versatile, ultimately
forgiving tofu.
First produced in China over 2000 years
ago, tofu found its way to Korea and Japan
in the eighth century AD. Although stories
vary as to how it was first made, the
method for doing so is simple: fresh soy
milk is boiled with a coagulant such as salt
or acid which causes the milk proteins to
curdle and bind together. These curds are
then pressed to remove the excess liquid
(whey) and consequently form a soft yet
cohesive solid. Tofu remains a staple in
Asian cooking today and is a popular meat
or fish replacement for those following a
vegetarian or vegan diet, yet there’s no
reason why it shouldn’t be embraced by all.
When it comes to doing so, the health
credentials of this ingredient are worth
noting. It provides iron and calcium, as well
as a host of other minerals and
micronutrients, is a good source of protein
and contains all eight essential amino acid.
What’s not to like?
For those who have previously been put
off by the texture of tofu, the key to
enjoyment lies not only in the type of bean
curd you choose, but in the way you
prepare it. Silken tofu is, as the name
suggests, softer and smoother than firm
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 21
THE PANTRY
tofu and tends to be made from pure
unpressed curds. It has a smooth, delicate,
almost velvety texture, which some people
find troublesome when eaten as is. Blend
to a puree though and it takes on a thick
creaminess that’s ideal for using to make
smoothies, dressings and sauces as well
as fillings for puddings and pies.
Bouncy pressed tofu or firm tofu tends to
be sold in blocks and is far more robust due
to a greater amount of excess water being
removed. Even then it’s well worth pressing
again at home as the recipe below suggest;
this helps the tofu to maintain its shape,
gives it a pleasingly chewy texture and,
perhaps most importantly of all, allows the
22 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
bean curd to act like sponge, drinking up
and absorbing every bit of flavour that’s
sent its way.
Once pressed and marinated, the fun
begins. Firm tofu can be seared in a griddle
pan or on a barbecue grill, baked in the
oven, used to add a protein element to
curries, sauces and stews or tossed in
cornflour and fried over a high heat until a
gorgeous crisp exterior shell develops (see
recipe below).
ub with olive oil and roast them
R whole, whip with honey, mash until
light and airy, cut into wedges, hack
into chunks, slice into wispy, paper thin
TOFU DIP WITH
ROASTED VEG
chips or blend to make silky smooth soup:
there’s certainly no shortage of delicious
options when it comes to cooking with
sweet potatoes. What’s more, the root
vegetable really seems to suit the cooler -
but by no means cold - weather in the
region at this time of year, lending an
effortlessly autumnal nod to all manner of
dishes without ever feeling too heavy or
hearty.
Despite their name, these tubers aren’t
botanically related to regular potatoes and
are actually part of the morning glory family.
They come in myriad colours, ranging from
yellow to creamy white and purple, as well
as the vibrant copper-skinned variety that
 THE PANTRY

SWEET POTATO CASSEROLE

RECIPES START ON PAGE 92

KEY IN GREDI EN T:

Sweet Potatoes
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 23
THE PANTRY
SWEET POTATO, DARK
CHOCOLATE AND
CINNAMON COOKIES
RECIPES START ON PAGE 92
we’re all probably most familiar with.
As well as being energy-rich and an
excellent source of beta-carotene (which is
converted into vitamin A and essential for
good skin and eye health), sweet potatoes
are full of antioxidants and have a low
glycemic index, meaning they release
energy slowly over a sustained period of
time, thus preventing peaks in blood sugar
levels and the dreaded sugar rush and
subsequent slump.
When you’re selecting sweet potatoes
opt for medium-sized tubers over
excessively large ones and choose those
that feel heavy for their size. Keep a keen
eye out for unblemished skin and avoid any
with bruises, soft spots or that are starting
24 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
to sprout. Handle them gently as despite
their robust appearance they damage easily
and store as you would regular potatoes, in
a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight.
It’s hard to resist the lure of a piping hot
baked sweet potato with crunchy salt-
speckled skin that releases a hiss of steam
when sliced into and reveals soft, fluffy flesh
within. Not only are they delicious just like
that (with a generous slick of butter, of
course), this cooking method lends itself
well to myriad dishes – both sweet and
savoury – as the recipes that follow show.
There’s a science behind baking them
slowly in the oven too: heat causes an
enzyme present in sweet potatoes to break
the starch down into maltose (or malt
sugar). The longer you cook the potato for
the more time the enzyme has to act on the
starch and the sweeter the end result.
Mashed sweet potatoes topped with a
quivering blanket of marshmallows grilled
until singed a gorgeous nut-brown is a
classic Thanksgiving dish that will happily sit
alongside the roast turkey, cranberry sauce,
stuffing, Brussels sprouts, green beans and
gravy on the 23rd November. Even if you’re
still not quite convinced, it’s well worth
putting your preconceptions aside and
trying this recipe out. The cookies
meanwhile require no real preamble or hard
sell: they’re crisp and chewy in all the right
places and boast little nuggets of dark
chocolate and nuts hidden within.
 Aroma
THERAPY IN
THE ETERNAL CITY
Rome is full of amazing art and architecture ... and great coffee shops. Food and
Travel has found ten top spots to get your perfect caffeine fix.
he bags are packed and everything is ready for your trip from “coffee withdrawals” when away from home.

T to Rome. The Eternal City’s numerous historical sites and

thousands of cosy restaurants, pizzerias, trattorias and
wine bars are waiting to embrace you. But where do you actually
go, if you want to taste the famous Italian coffee, which - quite
understandable - is the main reason why so many Italian suffer
The choice is not easy in a city that has allegedly something
like 6,000 coffee spots. So Food and Travel has tried ten
must-visit cafés where, a part from the good coffee, you’ll be
able to find the local inhabitants, coffee cups full of history
and quality, birds’ singing, hats and much more.

26 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 GOURMET TRAVELLER
This spread, clockwise: Bar San Calisto sign; Gatsby Cafe interior; Barista at Gatsby Cafe;
Tazza D’oro coffee on sale; Chalkboard sign at Gatsby Cafe

GATSBY CAFÈ
Coffee and hats
Rome’s Esquilino neighborhood is also known as “Rome’s
China Town”. Actually, in some parts of the quarter you’ll
meet shops where the prices in the windows are exposed
in Chinese Yuan. Perhaps that’s why you can sometimes
see the neighborhood’s name re-baptized to the humoristic
Es-qui-lin. The quarter’s main square, Piazza Vittorio, was
constructed in the end of the 19. Century, during the Italian
kingdom. This explains why it - with its many porticos - has
something of Torino’s elegance. Right here, on the piazza,
you’ll meet one of Rome’s most interesting new cafes, born
in November 2016, Gatsby Cafè. “Right here there used to
be a hat shop, run by the Venturini family. It opened in 1880
and closed last year. We were lucky, because the family liked
our project quite a lot so we had the permission to open the
cafè, and as you can see there is quite a clear reference to
this shop’s first life”, Mauro Patatini, one of the owners, tells
me and indicates some of the hats that are exposed on the
first and second floor. The hat – today a reminder of a distant
elegance – can also be found in the café’s logo. The café’s
name is a reference to both the famous novel by Francis
Scott Fitzgeral, the Great Gatsby, but also the equally famous
Gatsby hat that you can actually still buy in the café. Inside
the café there is a cozy reading and chatting room where you
can enjoy your coffee or cappuccino and cornetto in a space
with a strong blue color. When you’re done, take a look at the
other side of the street inside the park of Piazza Vittorio. If you
lucky, here – especially in the morning - you’ll be able to see
members of the Chinese community practicing the famous
Tai Chi Chuan gymnastics.
Gatsby Cafè, Piazza Vittorio 106, Esquilino

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 27

 LA CASINA DEL LAGO
Coffee and birds’ singing
Ahhh, Villa Borghese … what a pleasure! Walking lazily
through the Roman’s favourite garden is a cheer joy. 80 acres
of green idyll - which many Roman’s have almost perceived
like a second living room since 1903 - is situated in the
centre of the city and just waiting to open its green arms
to receive you. You can enjoy the nature, visit a museum or
even invite your chosen one to a romantic rowing intermezzo
on the garden’s small artificial lake. Or you can contemplate
Rome with a bird’s eye view from the Pincio panoramic view
point. In between you’ll need a place to sit down for a cup of
coffee. No problem, just go to the Casina del Lago, close to
the artificial lake, where you can sit down and enjoy the birds’
singing and the fact that the city’s sounds will arrive to you
in a muffled way. The neo-classical building, that hosts the
café and somehow resembles a mountain cottage, was built
in 1920. Today the place is a very popular pit stop to both
tourists and Romans where you can also enjoy a light lunch
– sandwiches and panini – accompanied by green colours
and the feeling of having come to a truly relaxing place.
La Casina del Lago, Via dell’Aranciera 2, Villa Borghese
www.caffeparana.it/eng/villa-borghese.htm

BAR MARANI
Like one big family
They are having a really swell time right there under what
is perhaps the Roman café people’s most beloved pergola.
The more than hundred year old Bar Marani is situated
in Rome’s university neighbourhood, San Lorenzo. The
relationship between San Lorenzo and Marani is actually a
sort of a ying-yang-situation: you can definitely find a good
part of San Lorenzo’s freaked out soul around the tables at
Bar Marani. The bar, on the other hand, would definitely not
be the same place without San Lorenzo around it. This is the time ago all our chairs and tables here under the pergola
neighbourhoods most popular café and one of my personal were stolen. When people from the neighbourhood heard
favorite places. When I have the possibility I like to make a about it, they started to show up with chairs and tables from
stop-over at Marani to get the classical glass of espresso, their homes, which we then used for about a week. As I
just to make sure that nothing has changed here in the past said: one big family!”. Marani seems to be completely faithful
20 years I’ve been living in Rome. Marani is still a “home” to their own philosophy about not following fashion trends.
to university students, local bohemians, heavily smoking For that reason, Marani has never given in to the temptation
housewives, intellectual wanna-bees, silent readers with of becoming a part of the lively San Lorenzo night life. So,
thick glasses and all in all an impressive gallery of strange and shortly before 10 pm you’ll hear the ringing of a “closing bell”.
more or less freaked out characters, of which a good part People empty their glasses, the book marks are put into all
could easily have stepped out of a Fellini-movie. Susanna kinds of different stories and you’ll hear several “buona notte”,
Marani, third generation of the Marani family recounts: “Here, while people go back towards home or in the direction of
we are a bit like one big family. If someone has forgotten his nightly adventures.
money at home, then he just pops by next day to pay. Some Bar Marani, Via dei Volsci 57, San Lorenzo

28 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


BAR SAN CALISTO
The soul of Trastevere
There is no need to beat around the bush when it comes
to Bar San Calisto. This is one of Rome’s most authentic
café temples and the quintessence of the most intimate part
of the Trastevere neighbourhood. The Italian term “verace”
explains all that is real, authentic and without make-up,
and this is exactly how San Calisto is. Every day – since
the middle of the 1960’ies you have been able to meet an
impressive gallery of strange existences and more or less
curious individuals – local matrons, foreign students with
iPads, intellectual outcasts, half-trashed artistic types, long
bearded homeless, heavily smoking newspaper readers and
… ordinary people. About half of the youngsters that attend
the bar call the owner, Marcello Forti, by name and being the
owner of this historic place he has almost earned himself cult
status. In the evening the café is almost completely taken
over by the student generation and party animals on their
way to an evening event. San Calisto has slowly become
en modern classic, an absolute must while in Trastevere
and especially a social-anthropological experience that you
should definitely have on your Rome bucket list.
Bar San Calisto, Piazza San Calisto 3-5, Trastevere
GOURMET TRAVELLER
This spread, clockwise: Casina Del Lago; Bar Del Fico interior;
Bar Del Fico sign; Bar San Calisto coffee; Espresso at Bar
Marani; Outside area of Bar Marani.
BAR DEL FICO
Mingling with the chic crowds
Shock waves shook a good deal of the Roman café
people in 2004, when Bar del Fico closed. The bar, that
once was a diary and that in 1928 was transformed into
a café, had been a true Rome institution for many years.
The Bar del Fico-abstinences were to last for a whole
six years until 2010, when the café finally reopened. Bar
del Fico – “fico” in Italian meaning fig like the old more
than hundred years old fig tree situated in front of the
café – has been restored in a intriguing shabby chic-
style. Today it appears to be a welcoming mix of Italian
vintage and a certain amount of French bistort elements.
The Italian word play between “fico” (fig) and “figo” (chic
or smart) is almost obvious, because this is the place
where a great deal of the chic Romans likes to be seen
and hang out. Here you can start off with cappuccino
and cornetto, go on to a light lunch, take your time for
a couple of aperitifs and, in the evening, go to the café
restaurant, that carries the same name. And you’ll also
have the opportunity to show your chess skills – if you
are in that mood – with your memorized King’s Gambit in
front of one of the concentrated chess players that can
always be found on the piazza in front of the café.
Bar del Fico, Piazza del Fico 26-28
www.bardelfico.com
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 29
 GOURMET TRAVELLER

This spread, clockwise: Antico Caffe Greco sign; Exterior view

of Sant’Eustacchio; Sant’Eustacchio espresso; Sciascia coffee
machines; Tazza D’oro barista; Antico Caffe Greco.

ANTICO CAFFÈ GRECO -

Rome’s most famous café
I can’t exactly say that I have worn out my shoes at Caffè
Greco during the 20 years I’ve been living in Rome. The times
I’ve visited the old café can probably be counted on a couple
of hands. Despite that, I have to admit – when I once in a while
go there – that its atmosphere is really something quite special.
Well, I guess it’s quite natural since we are speaking about
the café that opened back in 1760! To find something similar
you’ll probably have to visit Caffè Florian in Venice. Here, at
Caffè Greco, the air is thick of history and of stories. The echo
of past famous frequentations – Wagner, Liszt, Keats, Byron,
H.C. Andersen, Goethe, Schopenhauer and many others –
seems to reverberate like distance voices. The atmosphere
is also full of awe, at least if you observe some of the tourists
that with a clearly respectful attitude walk around in the café
while contemplating antique paintings, old newspaper articles
that have been framed and drawn sketches of past famous
guests. Caffè Greco’s director, signor Fabio, tells me to follow
him and shows me a beautiful antique sofa upholstered with
a yellow velour: “This sofa used to be in the apartment above
us where the Danish poet H.C. Andersen used to live for at
period. He has probably been sitting here for quite a number
of times”. Well, actually Greco seems to be a sort of a modern
fairytale, because when you sit at the old café with a cup of
espresso you almost automatically ask yourself how it has
been possible to preserve such a place for more than 250
years?! The clientele of today is a mixture of Romans with
reading glasses - who apparently try their best to uphold the
café’s literary tradition - and tourists from all over the world.
The café is expensive (seven euro for a cup of espresso),
which is comprehensible, considering its history and posh
atmosphere.
Antico Caffè Greco, Via dei Condotti 86
www.anticocaffegreco.eu

TAZZA D’ORO
Going for the authentic taste experience
You’ll probably have that special feeling right after you
have stepped into Tazzo d’Oro, close to Pantheon: right
here it’s all about coffee. The often considerable queue in
front of the cash register to pay before consumption, the
long zinc bar dish where the coffee cups are constantly
being lined up, the many regulars who in quite a laid
back way are leaning towards the bar counter to get
that day’s first caffeine boost. All this translate into one
single thing: you have come to a coffee Mecca, a temple,
a wonderland for all lovers of the hot black drink. And
this is really a Mecca of coffee, because ever since it’s
opening in 1946, the Tazza d’Ora, The Golden Cup, has
generally been regarded as one of the capital’s most
authentic quality places for those of you looking for a
high-level coffee experience that offers something extra. The
café’s interior style is highly intriguing since it resembles a
sort of English colonial style, with many bamboo elements.
The café roasts all its 100% Arabica (highest quality) beans
and on the impressively long coffee card you’ll find coffee
types like the rare Maragogype and La Regina dei Caffè
Blue Mountain. The café’s trademark, which can be found
on the café’s packings, is a dark-skinned Latin-American
woman, who throws coffee seeds in a field. Without doubt
Tazza d’Oro is a must to all coffee lovers. If you’re not in
town, but you’re dying to have a taste, you actually have
the possibility of ordering through the café’s home site.
Tazza d’Oro, Via degli Orfani 84-86
www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.com

30 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

SANT’EUSTACCHIO
Be sure to come back to Rome
“Follow me out here in the back, I want to show you
something. The sacks you see here are from Brazil, but we
also have suppliers from the Dominican Republic, Colombia
and Guatemala. My brother Raimondo finds them during his
trips to South-America. They are all producers that make a
product of a very high quality”, Roberto Ricci tells me. For
quite a number of years Roberto and Raimondo have run
what many Romans consider to be the city’s coffee temple
numero uno. A true institution of quality that opened in 1938
and which, according to Roberto, operates according to one
and only keyword: quality. “We ourselves do the roasting of
the beans a couple of times a week on this old roaster”, he
tells me. “Then the coffee has to rest for a couple of days
before it is ready for consumption. Remember: good things
take time. Just as when you speak about wine or cheese”, he
tells me. Here at Eustacchio, not far from the Pantheon, you’ll
find tourists from all over the world, and many of them are
provided with a guide that says that Eustacchio is the place,
if you want to taste the famous Italian coffee in Rome. Quite
a number of VIPs have ordered a cup of coffee here – no
one mentioned, on one forgotten. Well, actually two persons
have to be mentioned. “Mr. Schultz has been spotted here
twice”, says Roberto laughing. “Who is Mr. Schultz”, I ask him.
“Mr. Schultz … the inventor of Starbucks. He did not present
himself, but we discovered him”, says Roberto, laughing
once again. But also the Swiss inventor Eric Favre cannot
be ignored. In the middle of the 1970’ies his Italian wife took
him to Rome where he, after an excellent cup of coffee at
Eustacchio, asked the barista how he had made such a good
cup of coffee. The barista then looked at him and said: “I just
pressed a button”. That’s supposedly how Favre had his idea
to what has today become a millionaire business: Nespresso.
You can visit Eustacchio in the morning, at midday or in the
evening. But remember to ask for the specialty Gran Caffé. At
that point you don’t have to throw a coin in the Trevi Fountain
to be sure to come back to Rome.
Sant’Eustacchio, Piazza Sant’Eustacchio 82
www.santeustachioilcaffe.com

SCIASCIA CAFFÈ
Where quality never goes out of fashion
If you interrogate Roman coffee aficionados many of them
will stubbornly claim that the best coffee in Rome is made
right here, at Sciascia, in Rome’s Prati Neighbourhood,
not so far from the Vatican. And they might very well
be right. Actually, the Gambero Rosso café guide
continues, year after year, to give Sciascia a maximum
three coffee beans-vote as a sign of the highest quality.
“Our coffee beans, that we choose very carefully, come
from countries like Brazil, some middle-American and
African countries”, says Adolfo Sciascia who runs the
café together with his sister. The Sciascia-family is from
Sicily and their activities as coffee roasters can be dated
back to 1919. Stepping into Sciascia is a bit like going
on a voyage back in time. In the small shop-café you find
an assortment that almost seems incidental: old-fashioned
colored sweets, the classic Amarelli liquorices, small bags
with freshly roasted coffee and a small framed text saying
that Sciascia’s coffee is “coffee for the soul”. The part of
the shop where you’ll find the café is characterized by a
somewhat dark ambience and three lower hanging green
lamps that for years have been fighting against the dark.
Well, darkness or no darkness. The fact is the Rome’s
coffee aficionados keep coming back to taste Sciascia’s
specialty, coffee with chocolate. Sciascia is like an old-
fashioned romance combined with quality that goes on
and on.
Sciascia Caffè, Via Fabio Massimo 80/A
sciasciacaffe1919.it

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 31

 This page: Madeleine patisserie selection; Madeleine interior;
Street view of Madeleine; Outside dining at Madeleine.

MADELEINE
Where Rome flirts with Paris
Rome’s Prati neighbourhood, in the Northern part of the
city, is a quarter which is full of cafés, many of which have
a certain age. There is, however, also exceptions like the

Words: Jesper Storgaard Jensen Photos: Jesper Storgaard Jensen, Madeleine

fairly new Madeleine, which opened its doors in the second
half of 2015. This is actually a Salon de Gastronomie. This
means, speaking about interior decoration, that we are
in or around Paris. Madeleine opens at 8 in the morning
and stays open until 2 in the night, so you could actually
stay her all day long. And that would probably not be a
problem, if you consider the style and elegance of this
new bistro, one of the most elegant in Rome right now.
The owner Giancarlo Battafarano surely has a sixth sense
of taking over abandoned restaurants and turning them
into chic meeting points. Well, Madeleine is actually so
chic and has such a style that sometimes it suddenly
appears in your living room ... when you experience that
several TV-commercials have been shot here. In a small
part of the café you’ll find a so-called tavolo sociale, a
social table, the perfect dinner place for a small group
of 10-12 friends, what will probably have the feeling that
they are sitting in a private living room. In the bottom of
the café, beautifully lid with dozens of small lamps, you’ll
find the Boudoir bar, where you can get long drinks or
high class whiskey. Madeleine is definitely the place where
Rome meets Paris and ... they fall hopelessly in love!
Madeleine, Via Monte Santo 64, Prati
www.madeleinerome.com

32 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 Safari
so good
Giraffe Manor sounds like
something out of a fairy tale:
magical, enchanting and just
past the realms of possibility.
And yet as you can see,
its very real indeed.

34 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 GOURMET TRAVELLER
This spread, clockwise: Giraffe Manor at meal
time; A giraffe showing up for afternoon tea;
The drawing room; Breakfast for two.

his unique hotel, which is part of the exclusive The Safari

T Collection, sits unobtrusively on private land in the middle of

a forest in the Langata suburb of Nairobi. It’s just 45 minutes’
drive from the airport yet on arrival here you’ll feel like you’ve been
transported to another era - or even another land.
Inside the magnificent vine-covered building the look and feel
is that of an opulent 1930’s colonial manor thanks to the original
fireplaces, heavy print wallpaper, gleaming polished wooden floors
and sumptuously upholstered furniture, all interspersed with African-
influenced statement pieces.
The ambience – helped along by the endlessly helpful and well-
informed staff – is altogether luxurious, yet warm and welcoming
too. Each of the 12 characterful bedrooms is individually decorated
and boasts its own signature touches: think exposed beams, high
ceilings, comfy sofas, private balconies and whimsical four-poster
beds draped in gauzy curtains. In the main building, there’s a library
room for quiet relaxation, a gorgeous light-filled conservatory where
you can opt to eat dinner, plenty of window seats with stunning views
and snug armchairs perfect for curling up in. Venture outside to the
sun-drenched courtyard and it’s all too easy to imagine yourself as
a lord or lady of the manor who spends their days ambling around
the leafy grounds.
While this is all rather wonderful, the really extraordinary thing about
this destination is the very special permanent residents. A majestic
herd of Rothschild giraffes roam freely about the forest grounds and
pay daily visits to the manor. Depending on the bedroom that you
stay in, staff will leave food out on the window sills at night, meaning
that the next morning your alarm clock could well be in giraffe form.
At breakfast time expect to look up from your coffee and into the
inquisitive, long-lashed eyes of a giraffe or two as they poke their

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 35

 GOURMET TRAVELLER

This spread, clockwise: Feeding the giraffes;

Ready for breakfast; Afternoon tea; A friendly
hotel guest; The dining room; Scones

36 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

graceful necks through one of the large windows and attempt to

Words: Sarah Price Photos: Sukaina Rajabali

nibble on a piece of toast or just give you a quick nuzzle. Later on
in the day, as you settle yourself out on the terrace and tuck into a
decadent afternoon tea complete with beautifully light and crumbly
homemade scones, jam and plenty of cream, it’s likely that yet more
giraffes will wander by. Toss a pellet of food their way and they’ll
demonstrate an impressive level of dexterity by seamlessly catching
it in their mouths and the more adventurous can even attempt the
giraffe kiss: hold a pellet between your lips and the giraffes will utilise
their notoriously long tongues and take it from you.
Spending a couple of relaxing wonder-filled days at Giraffe
Manor provides a complete escape from the reality of everyday life.
Whatever your age or reason for holidaying – honeymoon, family
trip, high-octane adventure – this is an experience that can only be
described as utterly entrancing and entirely memorable.

Travel information
Giraffe Manor, Langata, Nairobi, Kenya
www.thesafaricollection.com/properties/giraffe-manor
+254 725 675 830 +254 731 914 732

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 37

 Sláinte!
Food and Travel’s Anthea Rowan take us on culinary journey to visit a few of the
Emerald Isle’s latest Michelin-starred eateries and more
unburn is just about the last thing you expect in Ireland.
S Guinness – yes. Black pudding – sure. A battle to understand
what people are saying – probably. And you know for certain
that you will get rain, But sunburn? No way. Yet that’s exactly what
we got. For the whole week in midSeptember that we spent on the
Emerald Isle, the skies were mostly a clear cerulean blue and the
temperatures surprisingly high. No “soft Irish days”, then, the typically
cheerful Irish view of what amount to plain old wet days, just blazing
nearMediterranean climes. When we got home, I showed a friend a
photograph. “Guess where?” I asked. “Mauritius,” he offered. “Nope.”
“France?” “Wrong again.” “OK. Italy then?” “Noooo.” “Oh, alright then,
I give up.”
38 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
We arrived in Shannon in County Clare on the west coast of Ireland
one blazing Friday afternoon and collected our hire car. For me to
drive. Because my husband had forgotten his driver’s licence. How
convenient, I glowered. He thought he was very clever; he thought
he was the first man in the world to pull this trick – no licence and he
couldn’t drive. No driving meant he could enjoy a few pints. The man
at the car rental company, when I proffered my driver’s licence and
assured him that yes, I would indeed be the only one driving, smiled
knowingly. We hadn’t been on the road to Galway for more than 30
minutes when my husband decided it was time to stop at a pub. “It’s
somewhere for us to meet up with your brother,” he offered, when
he noticed that I was taking a rather dim view of his plans. The pub

he chose, on the square in the small town of Gort, was raucous with
postmarket hilarity. We stepped in to be met with much warmth and
laughter... and many questions.
The guide books will tell you that the Irish are friendly. The Irish will tell
you that the Irish are nosy. Husband drank his pint of black and I primly
sipped my tea. We were both relieved to see my brother, who has
lived in Ireland for almost 30 years, step across the threshold to act
as our interpreter. Thick Irish brogues can be difficult to understand,
particularly when they’ve been thickened by an afternoon’s worth of
Guinness. By which time my husband had erroneously swapped
me for an ancient Land Rover with an old boy called Mick who
lived in County Clare. Or perhaps not erroneously at all? Mick’s wife
looked resigned to her fate. She must have witnessed many similar
transactions over many other pints. And so to Galway. With me at
the rental car’s wheel and my husband chortling to himself in the
passenger seat. Galway is a beautiful city on the west coast of Ireland.
GOURMET TRAVELLER
IRELAND
This spread, clockwise: Adara Manor aerial view; Enjoying the
Summer in Galway; Morans on the Weir, Clarinbridge Oyster Fest;
The Kings’s Head; Old Town streets in Galway;The Emerlad Isle’s
stunning scenery.
It sits on a bay that concertinas the coast so that we found ourselves
facing back towards County Clare, which we’d thought we’d left miles
behind us.
Known as the City of the Tribes, Galway is one of the fastest-
growing and trendiest cities in Europe, offering excellent shopping
and a university that is held in high regard. It has a young, buzzing
character, and at the same time feels sedate and authentically
historic. It’s the birthplace of the iconic Irish Claddagh ring (two
hands holding a heart, signifying love and friendship) and is sliced
through by the mighty Corrib River, on its way to the sea. We
admired the river from one of the city’s bridges. The colour of tea,
the water foamed and gurgled and boiled as it raced on its way.
“That’s a lot of water,” exclaimed my husband (recently arrived from
drought stricken Africa). “What do you expect?” asked my brother,
“It’s done nothing but rain for two months.” (Soft Irish Days not so
soft after all?) But not now. Now the sun sizzled down on us and
the Irish were out in force on the beaches, armed with buckets and
spades, but not with enough sunscreen it would seem, judging by
the pale skin being fried like bacon rashers.
Blue and white skies and seas, a beach the colour of butterscotch
and bright pink skin. Where was the green, I wondered? Where were
Ireland’s ubiquitous forty shades of green? My great-uncle Eddie,
a Catholic priest (every family worth their Celtic salt has at least
one!), talked about the “forty shades” incessantly. I was astonished
“Known as the City of the Tribes,
Galway is one of the fastest growing
and trendiest cities in Europe”
to discover, given that I had not taken him to be much of a music
fan, that the phrase was coined by the singer Johnny Cash. He’d
visited Ireland in the early 60s and subsequently devoted a whole
album to this country, including a rather sentimental track called
Forty Shades of Green.
We enjoyed a delicious lunch at Moran’s on the Weir near
Clarinbridge, where we ate oysters because we had conveniently
timed our visit to coincide with the town’s annual Oyster Festival.
The thatched cottage on the banks of the Dunkellin that is globally
renowned Moran’s was once a bar it opened in the 1700s that
slaked the thirst of farmers who came to gather peat and seaweed
Situated close to Galway’s native oyster beds, the pub didn’t begin
its now famous trade in seafood until the 1960s – ten years after the
Galway oyster festival had been founded. Many people have waxed
lyrical on Moran’s today’s it’s the social media crew, but once it was
poets: Seamus Heaney described “laying down a perfect memory” in
the “cool of thatch and crockery” in his poem, Oysters. There were no
greens to be seen in the bay that Indian summer afternoon: only hot-
white and smoked blue. But they were in abundance as we – sorry,
I – drove east from the coast all the way across to Dublin and down
towards Wexford. There was the green, I thought: bright green, dark
green, light green, olive green, bottle green, lime green, sage green,
jade green and yes, inevitably, emerald green. All of it rendered all the
more vivid by the continuing sunshine.
From Wexford we travelled to County Waterford – famous for its
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 39
 GOURMET TRAVELLER
IRELAND

“The Cliff House Hotel is located

in Ardmore, a delightful seaside
village and a very cool place
to stay.”
wonderful crystal – where we took a sleepy detour down The Hook
and over the ferry at Passage East to Arthurstown. We drove along
the cliffs and watched the sea crash onto the rocks far beneath us.
The water was steely grey, the sky less blue; fat clouds scudded
along quickly, herded by a nippy, impatient wind. But the greens
were just as green. Greener even. Inland we could see the spread
of the Comeragh and Knockmealdon Mountains, their flanks draped
in a shawl of forest green. At Dungarven we stopped for tea. (Tea for
two. Not a pint for one, note). We watched, shivering, as a crowd
of teenagers clowned around in the water with kayaks, one of them
wearing the Irish colours. Orange, white and – predictably – green.
Our destination for the night is one of Ireland’s hippest hotels. The
Cliff House Hotel is located in Ardmore, a delightful seaside village and
a very cool place to stay. It has been left unspoiled by the Celtic Tiger
that raced through Ireland during the country’s economic boom, often
with insufficient regard for good architectural taste. Remodelled to the
tune of over €20million, The Cliff House straddles a cliff, as the name
suggests, and boasts unbelievable sea views: not for nothing was it
named as one of the 10 Most Beautiful Clifftop Hotels in the World,
second only to Monastero Santa Rosa on the Amalfi Coast in Italy. Our
balcony offered a vertiginous perspective of the churning water below.
And the bathroom was quite the best I’ve ever had the pleasure to
bathe in. The bath was big enough to do lengths in, the glass shower
presented not just the opportunity to shower à deux, but also to gawp
at the vista of beach and cliff, sea and sky that sprawled beneath us.
The complimentary toiletry products came in jumbo size and funky
colours (acid orange, bright purple and – naturally – bright lime green).
The hotel’s restaurant, House, has (October 2017) again retained
its Michelin star.
The beauty of a Michelin star, says the Cliff’s GM, Adrian Bartels,
is that it puts you on the map, but the real challenge is that you can’t
buy it – you have to earn it. And then and this is the really hard part
retain it: a star can rather coldly, be taken away so there’s no resting
on your laurels once you’ve got one. The Cliff’s ‘House’ Restaurant
was first awarded a star in 2010, two years after it opened its doors.
The Cliff’s Head Chef, Martijn Kajuiter, once Head Chef in Restaurant
De Kas in Amsterdam having worked in London for culinary luminaries
such as Marco Pierre White and Pierre Koffman, agrees that “Having
a Michelin Star means that we are doing something right and that the
work we put in as a team gives the result we are associated with the
crème de la crème of restaurants worldwide, something to be very
proud of.”
The Cliff is part of a trio of hotels that showcase the best of Ireland:
sea, city, country. Dublin’s Cliff Town House, with its edgy Urchin bar,
enjoys everything the capital has to offer whilst The Cliff at Lyons in
Kildare the latest addition to the Cliff’s stables, acquired in 2016, is a

40 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

This spread, clockwise: Cliff House Hotel dining area; Halibut
& ratatouile; Cliff House Hotel from the beach below; The Cliff
Townhouse Dublin dining area; Food at Cliff Townhouse

gorgeous collection of historic creeperclad buildings including a mill

and a dovecote in beautiful grounds. We leave the Cliff reluctantly
and head northwest towards the pretty little town of Adare, home
to the ruins of Adare Castle, once some of the most impressive in
Ireland. Building began as far back as the 12th century. This Anglo-
Norman fortress was the seat of various aristocratic Irish families,
mostly the Earls of Kildare, until it fell to English troops in 1578 after an
11day siege. But the grandeur of Adare doesn’t lie in a pile of aged
stones. In November the beautiful neo Gothic Adare Manor, set within
almost 850 acres of stunning grounds and once home to the Earl of
Dunraven, will reopen its doors after an 18 month hiatus and reported
$120 million refit. The hotel stands tall, composed and graceful near
the castle on the River Maigue, amidst spilling acreages of green and
aside a world class golf course recently completely redesigned by
world-renowned golf course architect, Tom Fazio.
The last leg of our journey took us back to where we’d started, Co
Clare home to Ireland’s latest Michelin starred restaurant. The first Irish
pub to be awarded the accolade the Wild Honey Inn in Lisdoonvarna
is run by chef Aidan McGrath who once worked with the Cliff’s
Adriaan Bartels as Head Chef at Sheen Falls Hotel in Kenmare. His
star brings to 13 the total number of Michelin Stars in Ireland; lucky
for some then. By the time we handed over the keys at the car rental
company, we’d driven the breadth of Ireland. Twice. It’s a little place,
so it’s easily done... especially if you have a partner who remembers
their driver’s licence.
We were too broke to be seduced by duty-free prices into buying
Real Irish Lace or Real Irish Leprechauns (how can a leprechaun
Words by Anthea Rowan

possibly be real?), and our children were spared I LOVE IRELAND key
rings, even if I do. Instead, we bought a couple of Cokes and a copy of
the Irish Times and whilst husband flicked through the sports section
in a bid to try to understand the complexities of hurling and Gaelic
football, I watched an American lady powder her nose, admire her
reflection and tip the ridiculous hat she was wearing at a jaunty angle,
it sported the Irish colours: orange, white and green … Obviously.

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 41

 This spread: The Chedi’s beautiful water
gardens; Lebnah marinated lamb chop
served at The Beach Restaurant; Chedi
Club Suite bedroom.

42 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


magic
The Chedi the Jewel in the crown
Oman has one of the Middle East’s most dynamic and forward-thinking, yet
traditional capitals. Francesca Jackson finds it ripe for culinary, cultural and
multi-sensory exploration
uscat is one of the most beautiful cities in the Middle East
M – almost 900 years old with none of the towering chrome
edifices you might have come to expect from similar regional
capitals. Take time to visit some of the local heritage sites, such as: the
Mirani and Jalali Forts, both built in the 16th century by the Portuguese
and then captured by the Ottomans some 20 years later. Now they sit
proudly above the marina, towering down as a reminder of the city’s
multicultural history. A visit to the Muttrah Souq is a must: labyrinthine
streets with overpowering heat, aromas and a kaleidoscope of colours
that sum up the city perfectly. Buy a souvenir or two, perhaps some
GOURMET TRAVELLER
THE CHEDI
authentic frankincense in time for Christmas, or silver charm bands
for a loved one. As you’d expect, haggling is par for the course. In
our experience, kicking the negotiation off with a joke and a smile
rather than playing hardball will keep them on side. The Sultan’s Al
Alam Palace isn’t to be missed; over 200 years old, built by a direct
grandfather of the current Sultan. Even though you’re not allowed in –
it’s worth strolling by for the gilded photograph opportunities.
Like the rest of the Middle East, Muscat has myriad five-star hotels
of equal quality. The Chedi is a favourite, with genuine idiosyncratic
quality (so often lost among chain five stars).
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 43
 GOURMET TRAVELLER
THE CHEDI

THE CHEDI
The picturesque Chedi Resort in Muscat is located amongst the
lush manicured splendour of its own 21 acres of gardens, pools
and private golden beaches lapped by the balmy waters of the
Arabian Sea, set against the backdrop of the Hajar mountains. The
plush décor based upon a palette of natural colours and artisan-
designs reminds you that the Chedi is a truly indulgent destination
that reflects the heritage of Oman’s souks and gentle pace.
The three pools – the pinnacle of which is the 103m aptly named
Long Pool, overlooking the azure waters of the Arabian Sea (also
brilliant for swimming, by the way) – are enough to make you want
to spend a week coddled within the resort walls, splayed under the
cloak of a golden sun. But the prospect of an indulgent dip is not
the only thing that’s trumps at the plush Chedi. The rooms do a very
good job of making you want to stay put: mostly dark woods and
crisp white linens, some are flourished with deft Omani touches
like burnished metalwork. Cool, quiet retreats from the relentless
Muscat heat, they boast complimentary minibars (in the club suites
this equals carafes of grape and spirits), because the Chedi really
isn’t a ‘done-by-halves’ kind of place.
The hotel has six restaurants and two lounges offering cuisines
and grape from across the world, from the Mediterranean and
the Middle East to Southeast Asia and India. You will be spoilt for
choice with venues by the pool, beach or gardens, according to
the season or weather, and for that special fine dining experience

44 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

This spread, clockwise: Classic malaysian creamy Laksa soup served at The Restaurant; The Spa relaxation lounge; The Restaurant’s main
dining area; The Beach Restaurant on the seafront, at sunset; Nasi Goreng; The Long Pool; The Chedi Club Suite’s terrace overlooking the
ocean; The Serai Pool cabana’s for private dining.

“Four open kitchens spill

enticing aromas as some
of Muscat’s finest culinary
talents prepare a selection of
international cuisine”
visit ‘The Restaurant’ which blends clean Asian décor with traditional
Omani flourishes; and don’t let the simple functionality of its name
fool you. ‘The Restaurant’ offers a delightful intricacy of cuisine.
The graceful curves of Omani arches, crystal chandeliers, vaulted
ceilings, contemporary dark grey terrazzo floors and bay windows
set the mood of the chic dining room. Four open kitchens spill
enticing aromas as some of Muscat’s finest culinary talents prepare
a selection of international cuisine, complemented with a sip from
the Chedi’s award-winning selection of grape. In addition to the
elegant dining room, you can dine alfresco on the patio or in one of
the eight private dining rooms and lounge areas.
Dinner at ‘The Restaurant’ was a delight. To start I had Beetroot
Salad - beetroot prepared three ways - pickled, salt-baked
and raw, served with a creamy goat’s cheese, walnuts and thin
slices of sweet orange segment, balanced by a peppery rocket
garnish; a light and beautifully-balanced dish that would serve as
the perfect overture to any meal. For the main event, I opted for
the Omani Mixed Grill; a perfectly cooked combination of sweet
Omani lobster tail, plump giant prawns, delicate moist hammour
and succulent king fish, accompanied by fluffy saffron rice and
a home-made chermoula dressing that added a refreshing zing,
providing a pleasing medley of flavours and textures on my tongue;
a veritable kiss from Neptune. As if I had not eaten enough I still
managed to find room for dessert; a mille-feuille vanilla slice, filled
with a delicious velvety crème pâtissière accompanied with home-
made vanilla ice-cream; a truly heavenly dish that transported me
back to my favourite Parisian patisserie on the banks of the Seine.
A delightful meal, attentive service, in the perfect setting; enjoyed to
the lyrical strains of the talented pianist.
www.ghmhotels.com/en/muscat

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 45

 This spread: Aerial view of the Anantara Al
Jabal Al Akhdar Resort overlooking
Omen’s Hajar mountains.

46 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 GOURMET TRAVELLER

MOUNTAIN
HIGH
Anantara al Jabal al
Akhdar Resort Oman
Perched on a jagged peak amidst the spectacular
beauty of Jabal Akhdar in the Al Hajar Mountains

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 47

 GOURMET TRAVELLER
ANANTARA AL JABAL AL AKHDAR RESORT

he Anantara al Jabal al Akhdar Resort sits on the edge of a

T sheer cliff amidst the spectacular rugged scenery of the Al

Hajar mountains; the hotel has stylish rooms and villas and
offers an extensive choice of activities from hiking and abseiling
to swimming and training in the well-equipped gym, for the more
adventurous to cooking and first class dining to photography and
spa treatments for the more laid-back amongst us.

LOCATION
Accessible only by 4x4, the two-hour journey from Muscat is an
intrinsic part of the visit, as you slowly make the 2,000 metre climb
into the Hajar Mountains; the rustic scenery peppered with goats
and farms, historic abandoned villages and date palms. The hotel
sits in the heart of an area renowned for its damask roses, on the
Saiq Plateau just a short ride from the historic town of Nizwa

ESSENCE
The contemporary architecture reflects its Omani heritage, with
touches of inspiration drawn from ancient forts and Oman’s innate
artistic heritage, centred around a cluster of low-rise buildings
connected by a network of narrow waterways inspired by traditional
ancient irrigation channels and a myriad of stone paths. Whether
you choose to stay in a suite or one of the luxurious private villas,
you will note the attention to detail in the décor; earthy hues, ornate
wooden doors and elegant archways set the tone. One of the
centre pieces is the viewing platform named after the late Diana,
Princess of Wales, who visited the spot in 1986.

48 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 This spread, clockwise: Cliff Pool Villa room details; The
resort entrance; Pool at the women’s spa; Spectacular views
during moutain yoga; Royal Mountain Villa interior; Rose water
distellery; The view from the Cliff Pool villas; The library

SERVICES & FACILITIES

The hotel staff are professional, courteous and friendly,
and the local guides knowledgeable and helpful. There is
something for everyone, let one of the expert chefs teach
you to cook Arabic specialities, take a trip on the local
culture trail and visit the Nizwa souk or the ancient fort, or
see Damask roses in full bloom and meet the families who
make rose water in time-honoured fashion.
Other activities include outdoor favourites from hiking and
mountain biking to abseiling and archery, and for those of
you of a gentler demeanour, a choice of sunrise yoga and
landscape painting to relaxing spa treatments and lazy days
by the pool.

STAY
The resort boasts 115 spacious rooms and 1,2 & 3 bedroom
villas; the 82 rooms all have balconies with inspiring canyon
views, and every villa has a Majlis-style living area and its
own private pool and dedicated host. The accommodations
are decorated in a palette of warm earthy hues, natural
wood floors, decorative features, and have walk-in closets,
rain showers, deep tubs and luxuriant furnishings

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 49

 GOURMET TRAVELLER
ANANTARA AL JABAL AL AKHDAR RESORT

“One of the centre pieces is the viewing platform

named after the late Diana, Princess of Wales,
who visited the spot in 1986.”

This page, top-to-bottom: Dining

by Design with spectacular
view’s of Jebel Akhdar; Al Maisan
restaurant; Diana’s Point.

EAT & DRINK

Al Maisan is the resort’s all-day dining restaurant located above the
central courtyard; eat in the dining room or alfresco on the terrace.
Start your day with the breakfast buffet with all your favourite dishes
and selection of home-baked breads and pastries. Lunch and
dinner is à la carte, with culinary treats from the four corners of the
globe, including dishes from South East Asia, India, and Europe.
Signature restaurant, Al Qaala, situated in the heart of the
complex reflects the iconic architecture of the Musandam Tower;
Omani fine dining at its best, offering classic regional dishes and
Arabic specialities using the freshest of produce.
Bella Vista is an inspiring dining spot, nestled beside the infinity
pool where water meets sky, to provide stunning vistas. Casual
by day and sophisticated elegance by night, the Roman kitchen
produces authentic contemporary Italian cuisine.
Al Baha’s central location provides is the perfect place to relax.
Try fresh morning coffee, served by a barista or freshly squeezed
juices and mocktails. Enjoy the all-day international menu of snacks
and light meals, or take afternoon tea, freshly baked pastries or
relax around courtyard’s open fireplace each evening and take in
the stars.
Taking its inspiration from Oman’s traditional forts, the Al Burj
lounge is a Moroccan lounge. Choose from a range of specialty
coffees and teas, juices and cocktails, as well as a selection of fine
grape and bubbly; perfectly complemented by a tapas-influenced
Words by Francesca Jackson.

lite-bite menu.
Perched above the courtyard, is the Al Shourfa shisha lounge,
a great place to relax and savour one of Arabia’s most famous
traditions. Originating in Persia and India in the late 16th century,
the hookah has long been popular in the Arab world; choose from
apple, peach, apricot, pomegranate, mango and melon flavoured
tobaccos, as well as a VIP range for shisha connoisseurs.
Dining by design offers the ultimate in bespoke private dining.
Select your favourite meal from a collection of connoisseur menus
to be prepared by your personal chef. Dine when and where you
wish, selecting from a range of settings such as the star-gazing
platform at Diana’s Point.
Thanks to its location and striking setting, excellent amenities,
stylish set up, service and décor the Anantara al Jabal al Akhdar
Resort really does deliver on its promises and is something of a
destination spot in itself. Combine that with its position at the heart of
some of the most stunning scenery in Oman this is a must-visit hotel.
jabal-akhdar.anantara.com

50 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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 GOURMET TRAVELLER
SEYCHELLES

A LITTLE
PIECE OF

52 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 This spread: A private
spot of beach at Lemuria

The Seychelles; white powdery sand, balmy

waters, verdant green mangroves and the
warm embrace of a golden sun!

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 53

 CONSTANCE EPHELIA
ne of the largest resorts in the Indian Ocean, the Constance

O Ephelia proudly states that it offers the rarest of commodities

in a hotel: space. Set in a natural park on the striking west
coast of Mahé, the main island in the Seychelles, it certainly delivers
on that front, for as soon as I enter the lobby I am informed that the
resort stretches out across 296-acres. A daunting space for those
without a natural sense of direction, I am thankful when a map is
immediately placed in my hands and I am given a full run down of
what is on offer in this huge complex.
This is not a short conversation as great effort has been put
into making Ephelia appeal to a huge cross section of potential
patrons. For couples seeking a relaxed getaway there is the largest
spa in the Indian Ocean, several secluded beaches and five bars
to choose from. Yet there is also plenty to appeal to families as
there are four tennis courts, a climbing wall, a daunting zip-line that
runs through the forest and no end of activities based on the water.
Bicycles are also on offer and prove to be a hugely popular way for
families to navigate the spacious resort.
The makeup of the 313 rooms and villas has also been designed
with differing customers in mind. All are spacious and range from
garden view single rooms to villas that can sleep up to seven people.

54 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


“The hillside villas offer
something unique thanks to
a breath-taking view of the
forest and the crashing
waves far below.”
GOURMET TRAVELLER
SEYCHELLES
This spread, clockwise: Ephelia Seychelles Beach Villa; Dinner at Ephelia;
North beach; The main building at night looking out over the pool;
Hillside villa; The pool at Ephelia; Dining at Seselwa.
I was staying in a senior suite which was twice the size of an average
hotel room and also boasted a sizeable balcony. Inside the décor is
simple with wooden ornaments and wicker wall panels. Plenty of light
was also able to get in thanks to the massive floor to ceiling sliding
doors. There was also air conditioning and an overhead fan, while the
complimentary mineral water – bottled on site - was refilled daily and
came in glass bottles to minimise plastic waste. The only negative
was the complimentary chocolates in the room were covered in tiny
ants that had worked their way through the plastic, but the staff were
quick to apologise and take them away.
While the majority of the rooms have a similar feel, the eight
hillside villas offer something unique thanks to a breath-taking view
of the forest and the crashing waves far below. Even if you do not
stay in these villas it is worth walking or cycling to them just to take in
the stunning views. I was also informed that I could access a beach
below by taking a path through the forest and it is definitely worth a
visit if you are feeling adventurous. It may be a small stretch of sand
but the water is clear and it is extremely peaceful.
There are in fact two small beaches that can only be accessed
by foot and require some effort, but for those seeking a more
relaxing day in the sun, there are two main beaches. The north side
of the resort is perhaps more beautiful thanks to the pale green
waters that are contrasted by white sand and black volcanic rock.
But the south beach, Lans Ilet, also proves popular as the sea is
calm and the shallow waters allow you to walk all the way to a tiny
neighbouring island with its own secluded beaches.
At both beaches you will find the usual range of water-sports,
including windsurfing, pedal boats and diving. But Ephelia also
offers a more unique activity as when the tide is out you are able to
go on a kayaking tour of the mangroves that sit in the middle of the
resort. The hotel has made plenty of effort to protect this mass of
mangrove forests and it is a great way to see the natural vegetation
and wildlife.
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 55
 GOURMET TRAVELLER
SEYCHELLES

Kayaking is also a far more interesting way to explore the resort

than just simply sitting on one of the many golf carts that ferry people
to and fro throughout the day. Though this mode of transport is
preferable late at night when it can be difficult to navigate, even with
maps placed throughout the grounds of the hotel.
For those who prefer to relax during a stay then there is the impressive
U Spa, which has 18 treatment rooms, a Jacuzzi, reflective pool and
a yoga pavilion. Despite the number of guests taking advantage of the
service, I rarely saw another sole and was able to make use of the
spa’s facilities long after my massage had ended.
The same cannot be said of the restaurants as with the sheer
volume of guests, each of the five restaurants proves to be hugely
popular and a reservation in advance is definitely recommended.
The main buffet restaurant Corossol is the most spacious and
is exceptionally popular for breakfast and dinner. It also has the
most varied cuisine with everything from tandoori to pizzas on the
menu. For fine dining and French cuisine, Cyann is a must, but
it was Adam and Eve that truly stood out. The main focus is on
South East Asia and there is a definite emphasis on Malay and
Indonesian cuisine. The food is exceptional and the service is
fast considering there are just two chefs preparing all items on
the menu.
Of course if you feel you have overindulged there is a sizeable
gym packed with an array of machines and free weights, while
throughout the resort there is a host of free standing equipment that
is great for a full body workout.
So whether you are looking for an action-packed adventure with
the family, or you simply want to relax on the beaches and enjoy
decadent food, Ephelia has struck the perfect balance. And despite
the stunning surroundings of Mahé, you will find yourself not even
wanting to leave the sprawling grounds of the resort.

56 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


“Accommodation is rarely
more than 20 metres from
the white sand”
CONSTANCE LÉMURIA
Stretching across the north-western side of Praslin Island, just a
15-minute flight from the mainland, Mahé, Lémuria is a sprawling
101-hectare resort that nestles amidst the natural beauty of the
Seychelles. The hotel and its grounds are built into the island’s
luscious green hillside, while the three beaches of soft white sand
have been largely untouched, with only one boasting the usual
abundance of loungers and sun shades.
Just a five-minute drive from the airport, the hotel feels secluded
and makes full use of its natural surroundings. Even the short
buggy ride I take from reception to the lobby sees me wind my way
through rich flora, whilst also introducing me to the island’s wildlife in
the form of three very large tortoises.
Once inside the lobby I’m immediately greeted by the centrepiece
of the hotel - a three-tier swimming pool that cascades down to
sea-level. All three levels offer views to the turquoise ocean, with
the upper level also boasting a swim up bar where you can order
This spread, clockwise: Lemuria Presidential villas; Lemuria
Seychelles aerial view; Lounge area of the presidential suite;
Dinner by the rocks; Ephelia Spa villa; Breakfast at Corossol.
a wide selection of grape, spirits and cocktails. It is here that you
will also find an outdoor dining area that offers a small yet eclectic
menu of dishes.
A short walk from the lowest level there is the first of the 105 suites
and villas that make up the hotel. All of the rooms are spacious, with
the even the smallest measuring a sizeable 52 sq. metres, and are
finished in a cool colonial style. The mixture of wooden furniture
and blinds is contrasted by the marble and granite counters and
bathroom. Accommodation is rarely more than 20 metres from the
white sand, with tidy gardens, an outdoor shower and a hammock
the only things standing between my ground floor apartment and
the picturesque Grande Anse Kerlan. However, I am unable to swim
from this beach as the strong winds and currents make it unsafe.
Fortunately, I had been warned by the staff about this fact and I was
also informed that the beach is actually a nesting ground for turtles.
Those visiting between November and February may be fortunate
enough to see the hatchlings and the hotel even employs a Turtle
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 57
 GOURMET TRAVELLER
SEYCHELLES

This spread, clockwise: Sea turtle on the beach; The Senior Suite at
Lemuria; Aerial view over the golfcourse at Lumeria; The crystal blue
waters of the Seychelles; The dining area in the senior suite; Panoramic
view of the Lemuria’s stunning beaches.

Manager – a rather unique position – to make sure they have the

best chance of survival.
For those seeking a relaxing swim in the clear ocean, Petite Anse
Kerlan offers a stretch of beach lined with loungers and includes
an area from which you can hire snorkelling gear. Here I was able
to laze away an afternoon and see all manner of sea life, but the
beach did become quite crowded. To get away from the crowds I
would recommend taking the short journey to Anse Georgette. This
stunning beach can be found via a 15-miunte stroll through the golf
course. Though if you struggle with hills then I would recommend
asking the staff to help as they regularly run a van to the location.
The beach itself is how nature intended, with a sublime stretch of
pale sand contrasted by the dense forest behind and the clear sea
in front. Be warned though, there is no lifeguard, toilets or even
loungers here so make sure to bring your own towel and plenty of
drinking water.
Aside from the picture-postcard beaches there is plenty to

58 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 “There is plenty to keep you
entertained; water sports, a PADI
dive centre, two tennis courts and
the only 18-hole golf course”
keep you entertained throughout the hotel. There are water sports
facilities, a PADI dive centre, two tennis courts and the only 18-hole
golf course
As you would expect with a hotel set over such a large space
there is also plenty to choose from when it comes to dining.
Takamaka is a relaxed restaurant on Petite Anse Kerlan which
serves a range of light meals and has extremely fresh seafood in
the form of smoked marlin and sashimi. Further down the beach is
The Nest which offers sensational views thanks to its location on
the top of a natural rock formation. This has a larger and more varied
menu and is an excellent spot for couples looking for a romantic
meal with a view. Legend also boasts an impressive vista as it
sits above the third tier of the swimming pool, and it is here that
you can sample a wide variety of cuisines thanks to each evening
buffet offering a different theme. But the most popular restaurant is
the newly renovated Diva, which sits beside the golf course. Most
people dress up for the occasion as it has the most refined menu
and a large selection of grape. But the first thing you will notice is the
décor with its undersea feel, thanks to lights and chairs that look like
sea urchins. Having had a recent makeover and with outstanding
food, this was my favourite destination for dinner.
Ultimately, although there is plenty on offer for families in Lémuria,
the resort was full of couples during my stay. And it was easy to see
why the hotel is in demand for honeymooners. The breath-taking
views, secluded beaches and an array of dining options make it the
perfect relaxing retreat.
www.constancehotels.com

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 59

 Juan Pablo Rey Nores
Head Chef Gaucho Dubai
After receiving a culinary education from his idol, Nores made the decision to
explore his love for cooking and became enamoured with street food

60 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

Opposite page: Chef Juan Pablo Rey Nores. This page: Chef Juan
Pablo Rey Nores with a selection of dishes; Gaucho’s dining area;
Gaucho sign.
ad it not been for the intervention of one man then Juan
H Pablo Rey Nores’ career may have gone in a very different
direction. Now the head chef of Gaucho Dubai, it was only
at the suggestion of famed Argentinean chef Francis Mallmann that
he decided to make the move from the dining room into the kitchen.
Despite always having a passion for gastronomy, Nores spent
close to a decade working in a variety of positions in the front of
house. Then at the age of 26 he was convinced by Mallmann to finally
take his first tentative steps inside the kitchen.
“I started working when I was 16 and I was in all the positions inside
“When someone like Francis tells you this, then it is an opportunity you
can’t say no to. So I started to cook with him and develop my skills.”
the restaurant,” recounts Nores. “I was a food runner, a waiter, a
bartender, a barista and then eventually I became a sommelier. But it
was when working as head waiter in Francis Mallmann’s restaurant in
Buenos Aires that he told me I should cook.
“When someone like Francis tells you this, then it is an opportunity
you can’t say no to. So I started to cook with him and develop my
skills. He is an icon in Argentina, a true culinary legend and his
renowned ‘burnt’ food is to die for. So it was a tremendous honour to
work for him and I will never forget what I learned.”
After receiving a culinary education from his idol, Nores then made
the decision to further explore his love for cooking. Inspired by his
THE INTERVIEW
grandmother’s ability to create hugely flavourful dishes with simple
ingredients, he became enamoured with street food as travelled to
the likes of Brazil, Uruguay and Thailand.
Discovering new techniques and tasting varying local ingredients,
Nores returned with his knowledge enhanced and was able to open
his first restaurant back home in Argentina. Yet within two years he
was persuaded to once again leave the kitchen and this time work as
general manager of a hugely popular restaurant in the city of Santa
Domingo in the Dominican Republic.
“It was a great opportunity and fortunately I was able to have input
in the menu as the head chef was the nephew of the owner and
needed some guidance. He was still very young and the menu was
huge with more than 90 items, and there were all sorts of influences
from Peru, Brazil, Mexico. We even had sushi,” explains Nores.
“But then I had the chance to come to Dubai as my wife got a job
with Emirates and my very first interview was with Gaucho. I didn’t
speak any English at all and they couldn’t understand why I wanted
to work in the kitchen having seen that I had lots of management
experience. But I explained that I wanted to work on the line and learn
as much as possible.”
For two years Nores was part of the team that helped establish the
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 61
 THE INTERVIEW
JUAN PABLO REY NORES
“There is no deconstructing of ingredients or fancy foams, instead the
focus is on top class ingredients that have been expertly seasoned.”
reputation of Gaucho in Dubai. As his skills in the kitchen improved,
so did his English. Inevitably that led to offers and a stint at the Conrad
Hotel as a sous chef. But soon he returned to Gaucho and this time
it was as head chef.
“When I interviewed to return to Gaucho as head chef I was actually
feeling a little drained as I had been working 13-14 hour days, with no
weekends off. Then I saw that the menu had just been copied and
pasted from the UK and I just told them that I wanted to create my
own dishes,” says Nores.
“Luckily they agreed and I started the process. First I did the bar
menu and now we only have one or two dishes remaining from the
UK. Gaucho have shown great confidence in me and now I feel as
though I can create Latin American dishes or take influences from
other countries, and it will be fine.”
At Gaucho Nores has been able to express himself and is
constantly working to improve the menu. Yet with the Argentine at
the helm, you should not expect to see molecular gastronomy. There
is no deconstructing of ingredients or immersion blending for fancy
foams, instead the focus is on top class ingredients that have been
expertly seasoned.
As Nores explains: “In fine dining you find lots of techniques and
methods to do textures, but in terms of seasoning it comes from the
heart. That you cannot teach in a culinary school. That is why my
grandmother is such an inspiration from me. For her, the kitchen was
always about keeping it simple.”
Nores has the same philosophy and is determined to keep things
simple at Gaucho. At the same time though he is also trying to
forge an identity for the Dubai branch of the restaurant. He wants to
separate the chain from the outlets in the United Kingdom and Hong
Kong and is aware the menu must reflect the tastes of those in the
Middle East.
Having arrived in Dubai six years ago he now has expert knowledge
on local vendors and is working more and more with fresh seafood.
“I love cooking with seafood and creating ceviche’s and main
courses,” adds Nores. “We now have three different types of fish
in the main courses and an amazing king crab salad. It comes from
62 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
This page, left to right: Seared scallops; Tira de Ancho
Russia and you barely have to do anything with it, just some olive
oil and it is amazing.
“In Dubai we get to play around with different types of food and
presentation has become very important. People here are more visual
so our dishes are different to the UK, they are a little more complex.
That has helped us find our soul and now we are continuing to make
small transformations for the market.”
Of course when it comes to Gaucho the vast majority of patrons will
choose a steak for the main. The restaurant has become renowned
for using the very best beef from Argentina and diners will receive an
education from the waiting staff on the different cuts and even how
the animals were raised.
It is something Nores takes great pride in, and his dedication to
learning the art of cooking the perfect steak has seen him recently
heading to London in order to work on one of the busiest grills in the
capital.
“I was more of a chef than a griller so I went to London in February
in order to do some training and really feel the pain,” says a clearly
passionate Nores. “In all the other aspects I know what I am doing
and even though I know how to grill, there is nothing quite like going
to Piccadilly where you have 1,500 guests and you are grilling all the
time. I was intense and super good at the same time.
“I wanted to improve on the grill and I certainly suffered for that. But
it was only right as I was always told in Argentina that the best meat
was exported. And when I arrived in Dubai I knew it was true as I had
never tasted a steak quite like it.”
With Nores leading the success of Gaucho in Dubai, there are also
plans for the company to expand their presence in the Middle East.
And despite being sworn to secrecy, he couldn’t help but provide a
small insight into what to expect.
Words: Adrian Back
“Sadly I can’t say too much but we will be opening another Gaucho
in the Middle East very soon,” confides Nores. “We are also brining
our sister restaurant CAU to Dubai very soon. It is a beautiful concept
which is more fresh and familiar. That will happen very soon and I can’t
wait to continue my journey with Gaucho as it feels like my home.”
www.gauchorestaurants.com/restaurants/dubai
 WORLD TRAVELLER

railway
HERSHEY
Kevin Pilley takes us on
a tour of Cuba’s only
electric railroad
mbargoes are imposed and lifted. Revolutions come and

E go. But the landmarks and sights of Cuba remain the same.
Viejo Havana, the classic sedans, the human-powered
bikitaxis, the Che Guevara Mausoleum in Santa Clara, the 1930
Hotel Nacional at Malecon, the 1929 El Capitolio, Hemingway’s
Finca Vigia house, the Isle of Youth prison, Fidel Castro’s Finca
Biran birthplace in eastern Oriente, and his final resting place, the
Santa Ifigenia cemetery. And, of course, Hershey.

This page:
Hershey Electric Railway

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 63

 WORLD TRAVELLER

And its centenary train ride which takes you back in time to when
the largest island in the Caribbean boasted the best sugar in the
world, supplying Coca-Cola. The beet fields had been destroyed in
the First World War and the price of sugar doubled in two months
in what was called “The Dance of Millions”. Milton S. Hershey
became a very rich man and Cuba became inextricably linked
with something as iconic as a classic finned Buick. The Hershey
Chocolate Bar.
Born in Dutch Mennonite Pennsylvania, confectioner and
philanthropist Milton Snavely Hershey first worked as a printer but
was sacked when he dropped his cap into the press. Training
to make candy, he moved to Philadelphia and then worked for
“Huyler’s” in New York. Specializing in caramel, he founded the
“Lancaster Caramel Co”, selling it for $1m. With the proceeds, he
started Hershey.
Cuba and the rest of the world would have never known if his wife
hadn’t been taken ill and had cancelled their cabin on the “Titanic”
in 1912.

“Cuba became inextricably linked

with something as iconic as a
classic Buick. The Hershey
Chocolate Bar.”
64 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
This spread, clockwise: The Cuban landscape; Old railway station,
Cardenas; Cuban street musician; A beautiful view of Trinidad de
Cuba; Architecture in Havana Central district; Interior of a1950’s
classic American car; Hersey Train Carriage Interior

Designed not to melt in the tropical heat, Hershey Chocolates

supplied the U.S. armed forces with “Ration D” bar during World
War 11. Over three billion were distributed to servicemen. By
the end of the war the Hershey plant in the dairy farmlands of
Pennsylvania was making 24 million a week. Hershey died in
1945, aged 88. His birthday, September 13th, is International
Chocolate Day.
Cuba was one of his earliest ventures. In 1917, having bought
sugar mills and established the model town of 180 homes 40
miles east of Havana, he opened a huge sugar refinery (central
azucarero), suppling sugar to make his chocolate. He built a
railway to shuttle perishable cane and his staff. Operations closed
in 1946. The last sugar mill closed in 2002.
Cuba was once the world’s largest sugar exporter. Spaniards
introduced it in 1512. Valle de los Ingenios, (Valley of the Sugar
Mills ) outside Trinidad was centre of sugar production from
the late 18th century until the late 19th century. Three valleys
contained fifty sugar cane mills with 30,000 slaves. To prevent the
sugar from spoiling, rapid transport was necessary, and a special
railway line was laid to the port of Casilda. Sugar brought railways.
The UNESCO World Heritage site, the valley boasts the Manaca
Iznaga plantation, owner’s house, “barracones” (slave quarters)
and the 1816, 45m “Iznaga Tower”. Its bell announced the
beginning and the end of the working day. It was also an alarm for
slave escape.
After the collapse of the Russian “trade arrangement”, coinciding
with a collapse in sugar prices, two thirds of sugar mills in Cuba
closed. 100,000 workers lost their jobs. The Hershey train vividly
tells that story as well as that of the revolution.
Three times a day, if the drivers feel like it, the train leaves from
the blue station of Casablanca, a suburb of Havana across the

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 65

 WORLD TRAVELLER

This spread, clockwise: Hershey train station; Amazing view of “The only electric train in Cuba,
Holguing province’s tropical beaches; Busy street of Old Havana;
Callejon de Hamel in Havana; Centre of La Havana; Walking on
the old railway line.
runs 52 miles for four hours to
Matanzas passing through
forty tiny stations”

harbour from the capital’s Old Town. The only electric train in Cuba,
with a driver´s cabin at each end, it runs 52 miles for four hours to
Matanzas passing through forty tiny stations. It costs ten pence.
Hershey is the midpoint.
You pass fields with goats and Brahman cows, guarded by
egrets, putter through mango and banana groves, stopping at bus
stop size stations. Passengers jump on and off. Tomatoes are
passed through windows. The journey is through Cuban history.
Castro commanded his troops from the office of a sugar factory in
the village of Australia during 1961 Bay of Pigs.
It takes you past Guanabo beach, Jibacoa (its “Super Club
Breezes” all-inclusive resort was one of the first openings of the
Cuban economy to foreign investment) and Canasi on the Via
Blanca Highway.
Post-revolution, Hershey was renamed Camilo Cienfuegos.
Along with the Castros, Che and Juan Almeida Bosque, Cienfuegos
(one hundred fires) was a member of the 1956 “Granma” expedition
which launched insurgency against the dictator, Fulgencia Batista.
Camilo became a top guerrilla Comandate. He was known as the
“Hero of Yaguajay” after a key battle. He also commanded a column
capturing Santa Clara. He lived in New York and wrote for La Voz de
Cuba (“The Voice of Cuba”). He played for Castro’s baseball team,
“Barbudos” (The Bearded Ones)
At a rally in 1959, Castro interrupted a speech to ask “¿Voy bien,
Camilo?” (“Am I doing all right, Camilo?”) His response “Vas bien,
Fidel” (“You’re doing fine, Fidel”) which became a slogan of the
revolution. Camilo died in a plane crash.
You see the town’s name and the old Hershey sugar mill chimney.
You stand in Cuba , pre and post revolution.
Along the route, you pass rum factories (the mills providing

66 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 molasses). People offer you split coconuts. Pelicans dive into the
sea. The track winds around the coast to minimize gradients. Old
ladies sun themselves on porches. Girls pose for photos for their
fifteenth birthday (quinceanera”) on the famous train.
Single gauge, it’s the only surviving electric line in the country.
The original bone cars came from the JG Brill Company. These
Words by Francesca Jackson. Photos by: Romeo Balancourt; Henry Hargreaves

were replaced by cars from the Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat de

Catalunja in the 1990s. There are four branches from the main
line in current use, running to Playas del Este, Jaruco and Bainoa.
The line used to serve the Havana Club dark rum factory in Santa
Cruz del Norte.
The maintenance facility is still in old Hershey, where reportedly
somewhere is an original Brill car along with a GE steeple cab
locomotive and a tower car to maintain the overhead catenary lines.
Line voltage is 1200 volts DC. Ties are concrete, rails are jointed
(not continuous/welded) and power poles wooden, usually on the
south side. There is usually a train buff somewhere on board.
When the Hershey line was constructed, the railway operator in
Havana province, United Railways, refused to allow the Hershey
train access to its tracks so a new terminus at Casablanca was
built.
Journey’s end is Matanzas, the city of bridges ad Athens of Cuba,
famous for its poets and rumba dancing. It means massacre after
Spanish soldiers were killed by local fishermen. The final stop is the
station in the barrio (district) of Versailles. In town, you can see the
1882 pharmaceutical museum, the 1863 Sauto Theatre and the
Catedral San Carlos.
Not many single track trains start in the US and end up in a
massacre, in Athens and Versailles.
But that’s Cuba.

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 67

 Why go?
Divided in half since 1974, Cyprus’s
capital is a fascinating and enticing city
that bears witness to its many invasions
and occupations – Crusader, Venetian,
Ottoman, British. Enjoy fine museums,
gilded churches and sophisticated
dining. November, with the weather still
balmy and the mass hordes departed
the island, is the perfect time to wander
and ponder this complex yet captivating
metropolis.

NICOSIA CYPRUS
Discover a city steeped in history, rich in culture and with a passion for food

What to do
The preserved Old City, built by Venetian conquerors in the 16th century,
is the main draw. Start the morning with a strong Greek coffee and spend
some time exploring the citadel walls, the outline of which is Nicosia’s
distinctive logo. The Old City itself is a network of alleys that lead you
past crumbling colonial houses and jewel-like Orthodox churches.
Stroll the route of the ‘Green Line’ to immerse yourself in the oldest
and prettiest neighbourhoods or join a regular free walking tour. The
sandstone Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios Mansion (+357 22 305316) is a
perfectly restored merchant’s house with a tranquil courtyard. Don’t miss
the Cyprus Museum (+357 22 865854) which houses a fabulous
collection of archaeological finds.

68 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 CITY BREAKS

This spread, clockwise: Greek churches; Greek eating; Nicosia City

streets; The Architecture of Cyprus; Greek coffee; Kakopetria.

Where to stay
The Hilton Cyprus hilton.com, Nicosia’s flagship hotel, has long been
a meeting place for the great and the not always so good, and has the
luxurious rooms, pools and fine dining you’d expect. The Classic Hotel
classic.com.cy a chic mid- century-style block within the Old City walls,
has fresh, modern rooms and marble bathrooms. For something more
traditional, the Sandstone www.sandstonecyprus.com offers tastefully
furnished rooms in an Old City house, with picturesque balconies, green
shutters and pretty tiling.

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 69

 CITY BREAKS
This page, clockwise: Dried fruits; Olives; Kleftiko slow-cooked lamb; Kakopetria; Nicosia City; Bread oven.
Where to eat
Cypriots are passionate about food and it’s not hard to see why. The cuisine is not
simply a melғ ange of Greek and Turkish, but has Middle Eastern influences too in its
sumptuous stews, stuffed vegetables, cracked grains and pulses. Meze is the name
of the game, so head to Zanettos Taverna www.zanettos.com a locals’ favourite,
to savour plates of the best in town: specialities include smoked Cyprus sausage,
meat marinated in grape and coriander, snails and grilled halloumi in pita. Afterwards
enjoy fragrant Lebanese mahalepi washed down with Commandaria, Cyprus’s
ancient dessert wine. For a taste of the Med inland, Pyxida pyxidafishtavern.com is
a fabulous fish restaurant, offering fresh catch in a chic, modern setting – try the
70 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
tuna carpaccio, seabass or grilled octopus. No Reservations
noreservationsrestaurant.com has had rave reviews for its innovative take on local
ingredients – sample dishes are stuffed zucchini flowers with bagna cauda or rack
of lamb with garlic sour cream. You’ll surely want to sample some street food too:
Sham Food (+ 357 22 333381) does lip-smacking shawarma.
TIME RUNNING OUT
Cafeғ culture is central to Nicosia life, so head to Ledras and Onasagorou
street or Makarios Avenue late afternoon for frappeғs and people-watching.
Travel information
Currency is the euro. Time is two hours ahead of GMT. Flight time from Dubai
is around 4.25 hours.
GETTING THERE
Emirates has direct daily flights from Dubai to Larnaca Airport, which
is 40 kilometres from Nicosia. emirates.com
RESOURCES
Visit Cyprus website is the official Cyprus Tourism Organisation guide and,
full of things to do in Nicosia and further afield on the island. visitcyprus.com
TRIP TIP
The Handicrafts Centre (+357 22 305024) is brimming with
traditional lace, embroidery, ceramics and pottery and aims at
preserving these ancient crafts through its in-house artisans.
 WORLD TRAVELLER
GRAND CANYON

RIVER DEEP,
CANYON HIGH
Between Arizona and Nevada, the whir of cicadas and the flitting swifts and wrens that
fly between the ponderosas and pinyon pines. I feel
grand American landscape showcases refreshingly humbled by my insignificance.
carving canyons, picturesque lakes Looking across to North Rim from Mather Point and
and imposing dams Yavapai Point (16km away as the eagle flies) is a
spectacular geological gallery sculpted and painted over

I
t’s one of the most magnificent natural wonders of
the world. Postcards and brochures only touch upon
the sheer scale of the Grand Canyon. Its tortuous
topography and ever-changing colours drop the jaw of
every first-time visitor.
As I stand on its South Rim, I too am entranced. Squirrels
bound silently between rocky ledges. All I hear is the
millennia. It’s a swirling canvas of Kaibab limestone,
Coconino sandstone, hermit shale, and Vishnu schist
basement rock, itself 1.7 billion years old. And below
me on the canyon floor is the 2,250km-long Colorado
River, which arrives from the Rocky Mountains. It weaves
through 445km of the Grand Canyon, into Lake Mead,
and onto the Californian Gulf.

72 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 This spread:
View over the Grand
Canyon at sunset

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 73

 WORLD TRAVELLER
GRAND CANYON
VILLAGE PEOPLE
The Grand Canyon National Park was designated as such in
1919. And in 1979, it became a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Here at Grand Canyon Village, President Roosevelt implemented
a Civilian Conservation Corps camp during the 1930s economic
depression. Over a decade, around 40,000 young men contributed
to conservation work, learning skills such as masonry, carpentry and
bookkeeping along the way.
One prominent local from the time was Mary Colter. Walking
along the rim, I reach the Lookout Studio, designed by the master
architect herself. Colter constructed the building in rustic Kaibab
limestone, offering staggering views over the canyon. Nearby is
the five-storey, Kolb Studio, dressed in attractive logs. Clasping
dramatically onto the canyon walls, this was the early 20th-century
home and photography studio of the Kolb Brothers. They shot
images of tourists heading down the canyon on sturdy-footed mule
trains. Inside are historic photographs, a vintage film projector, and
the canvas boat in which the brothers explored the Colorado River.
The young members of the Civilian Conservation Corps built the
staircase behind the studio. They also constructed and maintained
thousands of kilometres of national park trails across the USA.
Mesmerising canyon views twist and contort in all shades of
ochre-red, purple and plum. Reaching the trailhead for Bright Angel
Trail, I follow a section of its 13km descent, passing through a scenic
tunnel and a wall featuring Native American petroglyphs. A series of
rubbly switchbacks hug redwall limestone walls on this trail originally
used by the Havasupai people who farmed at Indian Gardens below.
Hardy hikers puff passed me, having climbed up from Phantom
Ranch (a stone lodge at the canyon’s base, also designed by
Mary Colter). They’re coated in sweat and dust, and in smiles of
74 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
“Mesmerising canyon
views twist and contort in
all shades of ochre-red,
purple and plum.”
achievement. One excited couple talks of spotting an elk in a cave.
The trail is still serviced by mules that carry less energetic visitors.
NATIVE AMERICAN RESERVES
It’s a new dawn, and today I travel to Hualapai Reservation at Grand
Canyon West. On ancestral lands around 250km west of Grand
Canyon Village, the Native American community reside just outside
the national park.
At Hualapai Ranch, the old Wild West is re-enacted for tourists
with lasso throwing and wagon rides. Wrangler-led horse-riding is
on offer in the arena or along the rim. I head to the Native American
cultural village at Eagle Point to see examples of traditional dwellings
of various tribes, including that of the Hopi and Havasupai people.
I find buffalo hide-lined tipis, and mud and wood-constructed
hogan huts. Traditional performances take place in the open-air
amphitheatre, and stallholders offer Native American jewellery, arts
and crafts.
Eagle Point is also home to the recently opened Sa’Nya-Wa
Restaurant, offering traditional Hualapai dishes fusing Southwest
and Asian flavours. And beneath it is the famous Skywalk, where
the vertigo-free step out onto a horseshoe-shaped glass bridge
suspended 4,000ft above the canyon floor. I’m most taken with
the narrow escarpment beyond, resembling a giant bald eagle with
outstretched wings. The Hualapai people believe it’s a protective
spirit looking over them.
Reaching Guano Point is a breath-stealing moment. Its short but
spectacular Highpoint Hike tracks a narrow promontory. The terrain
is rough and rubbly, and without safety rails, but when taking in the
360o views of its steep ramparts plummeting down to the Colorado
River, the sense of remoteness is arresting.
This spread, clockwise: Grand Canyon sunset
view; A mud and wood hogan hut; The
breathtaking views towards North Rim; The
Grand Canyon’s walking trails; Descending the
canyon; The colours of the Grand Canyon

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 75

 “Postcards only touch upon
the sheer scale of the Grand
Canyon; it drops the jaw of
every first-time visitor.”

The afternoon sun blends the canyon’s palette of colours to an

incandescent orange. Meaty black ravens perform aerobatic
swoops and loops off the precipitous ridge, cutting the silence with
their glottal call. Devoid of wind, or even a breeze, I watch others
bask in the timeless beauty of this ancient land, as heat bakes the
afternoon to a standstill.

LAKES, GORGES AND DAMS

On my last day exploring America’s sensory southwest, I head just
west of Grand Canyon West. Hemenway Harbour is where the
Colorado River pauses. At Lake Mead, I board the Desert Princess,
a Mississippi-style paddle-wheeler. The lake is 177km long (when
filled) and boasts 885km of shoreline.
Cruising along, we view close up the cliffs of Hemenway Wall,
mottled with schist rock and striated gneiss rock. We pass Boulder
Island and Sentinel Island, but it’s the extinct volcano of Fortification
Hill that’s most attractive, with its raspberry ripple-like slopes.
Lake Mead is home to rainbow trout and catfish, and in the
canyons around it, mule deer, coyotes, bobcats, bighorn sheep,
and desert tortoises reside. Our skipper has us keep an eye open
for the endangered peregrine falcon.
Various States draw much of their drinking water from Lake Mead.
It irrigates fruit, vegetable, hay and cotton farms in South Nevada,
South California and Mexico. And it is America’s largest man-made
reservoir—all thanks to Hoover Dam.
After repeated floods in the early 1900s, the Colorado River burst
its banks causing major damage to riverside farms. Being too wild a
torrent in spring, and just a trickle in winter, farmers called for a dam
to control water flow and distribution. Black Canyon was selected
as the best spot.
In 1929, engineer, philanthropist and President, Herbert Hoover
negotiated an agreement between the seven states that shared
water rights: Nevada, Arizona, Utah, New Mexico, California,
Wyoming and Colorado. Construction for Boulder Dam began in
1931, with Boulder City constructed for the workers. With the dam
completed in September 1935, Roosevelt named Boulder Dam
(renamed in 1947 to Hoover Dam).
As our boat navigates Black Canyon, it’s thrilling to think we are
floating near the top of Hoover Dam, on the other side of which is a
220-metre drop. With that ominous thought in mind, I book myself
onto a group tour of this National Historic Landmark.
Arriving at the mighty structure, we descend 64 metres into the
belly of Hoover Dam to see first-hand how this feat of engineering
works. Exposed volcanic conglomerate rock appears cold and wet.
We view the pipes that transfer 96,000 gallons of water per second
to the power plant’s generator turbines, which supply power for 1.3
million people in various states. You don’t need to be an engineer

76 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 WORLD TRAVELLER
GRAND CANYON
This spread, left to right: Hoover dam; Grand Canyon; A black
raven soars above Guano Point ; The Mike O’Callaghan-Pat
Tillman Memorial Bridge as seen from Hoover Dam; A traditional
tipi at Grand Canyon West

Travel Information
Getting there
Emirates flies daily between Dubai and Las Vegas (via Seattle
or San Francisco). www.emirates.com

to be impressed by that. A circular black and white floor pattern Touring

underfoot represents the Native American symbol for water and
power.
Heading back up, I walk across Hoover Dam’s 379-metre crest.
With Lake Mead to my left, and the Colorado River slithering
Words & Images: Marie Barbieri
Grand Canyon Tour & Travel offer a variety of Grand Canyon,
Lake Mead and Hoover Dam itineraries. Once at the canyon,
free shuttles operate on a loop. Travel from Las Vegas (with
courtesy hotel pick-up and drop-off) by deluxe coach or

hundreds of metres below to my right, I’m again humbled with an
appreciation for what humans can achieve.
Midway, I cross the state border of Nevada and Arizona. It’s a
great vantage point from which to view the enormous intake towers.
A moment for reflection comes at the memorial dedicated to 96
souls that lost their lives constructing the dam. It reads: They died to
make the desert bloom.
From canyon to dam, I leave the USA feeling utterly enthralled by
its indigenous heritage, its magnificent natural landscapes and its
ingenious manmade structures.
bespoke Mercedes Benz Sprinter. For a variety of itineraries
and packages, visit: www.grandcanyontourandtravel.com
Visas
Travellers to the USA require a visa (except citizens of a
country on the visa waiver program). For further information,
visit: www.travel.state.gov
Resources
www.nps.gov/grca

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 77

FOOD FOCUS

masterclass
V E G E TA R I A N
We celebrate World Vegetarian Day with mouth-watering
recipes to tempt every palate

FRUITY COUSCOUS
WITH ALMOND MILK

PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING: MARGARET STEPIEN

RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: WASSIM KARAM
 FOOD FOCUS

RATATOUILLE WITH
POACHED EGG
RECIPES START ON PAGE 92

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 79

 FOOD FOCUS

ASPARAGUS, BUFFALO
MOZZARELLA AND
FETA QUICHE
RECIPES START ON PAGE 92

80 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 FOOD FOCUS

LENTIL, MUSHROOM
AND CASHEW BURGERS

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 81

FOOD FOCUS

BULGER WHEAT,
TOMATO, FETA AND
POMEGRANATE SALAD
RECIPES START ON PAGE 92
 FOOD FOCUS

CARDAMOM OATMEAL WITH

FRESH POMEGRANATES,
RASPBERRIES AND RAISINS

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 83

 FOOD FOCUS

AVOCADO AND PEA DIP

RECIPES START ON PAGE 92

84 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 FOOD FOCUS
SWEET POTATO,
CHICKPEA AND DRIED
FRUIT FALAFEL

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 85

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 Tried
GAUCHO DUBAI
ocated in the heart of the DIFC, Gaucho Dubai offers you
L the opportunity to dine in luxurious style, surrounded by
contemporary glamour and chic décor. Whether you
choose to dine al fresco or simply to meet with friends for a
cocktail in the lounge, Gaucho provides the perfect place to
enjoy fine Argentine food and grape; with its famed Argentine
beef, succulent signature steaks, sizzling seafood and tasty
vegetarian dishes. We visited Gaucho on a Friday; the weekend
brunch - roast dinner and à la carte menus are all available and
equally inviting. Our first impressions were mixed, the service
was certainly warm and friendly but a little inconsistent. The food
however lived up to our expectations. We were literally spoiled
for choice between the brunch, roast and main menu. After
much consideration, we decided to try the selection of steak,
‘When in Rome and all that …!” The platter included; Rib eye,
Sirloin and Fillet; the meat was tender and succulent, and the
perfect shade of pink and ruby in the middle – just the way a
medium-rare steak should be. The steaks were accompanied by
a selection of sauces from mushroom, peppercorn, garlic, and
our personal favourite the signature ‘Gaucho Sauce’ that was
smooth and full of flavour. The rib-eye had been prepared with a
COOKERY COURSES RESTAURANTS DELIS APPS HOTELS
&
sprinkling of salt, and was cooked to perfection, the meat had
been well rested, and cut easily; the fillet steak was also
delectable; but the sirloin was a tad fatty and perhaps a little on
chewy side. The Roast Dinner looked appetising and again the
meat was cooked well; the only slight reticence we had over the
meal was the quality and taste of the vegetables and side dishes
that didn’t live up to the stars on the plate - the roast potatoes
looked inviting but were hard in the middle and soft to the touch,
the vegetables were overcooked and covered in oil, and the
Yorkshire pudding was wanting. There is an excellent selection
of grape to choose from, for those looking for a fine
accompaniment to their meal; and the grape recommendation
from our well informed and knowledgeable server was spot on
- ideally complementing our meal.
Although there were a couple of small issues, they certainly
didn’t diminish what was otherwise an enjoyable meal – If you are
looking for a chic steakhouse that serves premium cuts of the
finest Argentinian beef, a broad selection of grape, in a
memorable atmosphere, then you should certainly pay a visit to
Gaucho Dubai.
www.gauchorestaurants.com
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 87
 Where to
Eat
Tried&Tasted
EAT

With autumn upon us, we celebrate Thai

style, enjoy Cuban fusion in Bahrain,
savour seafood in Bali and visit a
clandestine Kensington classic serving
stupendous roasts

Pai Thai Madinat Jumeirah,

Dubai
ocated on the serene waterways that meander gently around

L Dubai’s Madinat Jumeirah, Pai Thai restaurant offers a culinary

journey through Thailand’s exquisite cuisine; flavour-packed
dishes and breathtakingly romantic surroundings make any meal at
Pai Thai a special occasion. As the Thai celebration of Loy Krathong
approaches, Pai Thai has curated a special three-course sharing
menu that includes unlimited starters, mains and desserts ordered
on rotation and perfect for sharing. Savour old favourites and new
dishes created exclusively for the occasion by chef Chef Aphichat
Amatmontri, the Loy Krathong menu features starters such as Som
Tam Je, a green papaya salad, tomato, apple, cashew nuts with
tamarind dressing; Gai Hor Bai Toey, crispy marinated chicken
wrapped in pandan leaf, and a new appetiser; Sa Khu Na Goong,
crispy prawns, with garlic, coriander, and breadcrumbs. Asia de Cuba Bahrain
Mains include Gaeng Panang Gai, chicken red curry; Phad Phed
Nuea, wok fried beef red curry, long beans, Thai eggplant, and new CHINO LATINO BRUNCH Located at Gallery 21 in Bahrain’s
addition, Pla Yang Sa Moon Pai, grilled seabass fish fillet; aromatic famous Block 338, Asia de Cuba has been making waves ever since
and vibrant dishes burst with the flavours of Thailand. And as part it opened earlier this year. The internationally renowned Chino-Latino
of the celebration you will be entertained by Pai Thai’s resident restaurant, lounge brings its own unique culinary twist; the innovative
dancer who will perform on a floating abra on the Madinat Jumeirah menu, created by Cuban-born Executive Chef Luis Pous, brings that
waterways. perfect marriage of Asian and Latin flavours and techniques. The Asia Words by Stephanie Dobrijevic; Blossom Green;
The Loy Krathong 2017 menu is available for dinner between de Cuba Chino Latino Friday Brunch offers live stations, a sharing Imogen Lepere Photos by TTim Martin; Bailey
November 1 to 14. To discover more call +971 4 432 3232 or visit feast bursting with signature dishes, as well as a live DJ and to ensure
Jumeirah.com there is something for the whole family a dedicated playroom for the
kids. Indulge yourself in the four-course menu, which begins with a
selection of small plates, such as pastelitos, chicken chicharrones,
shrimp churros and black bean hummus, followed by a Caja China with
Pescado a la Parrilla, Lambchon and Cuban Marinated beef Chuck
Roll. Visit the ceviche and carving stations, as well as a mouth-watering
Cooper; Irezz Pratama

selection of dessert including, Dulce de Leche fountain, home-made

Mexican Doughnuts and Arroz con Leche. And if that is not enough
the fun continues after brunch with the Why Not Stay After Party in the
Cigar Lounge and Rooftop Bar.
The Chino Latino Brunch is served on Fridays from 1pm till 4pm,
prices start at $80pp. For more information call +973 17711600 or
email reservationsbh@asiadecuba.com

88 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 Eat
Tried & Tasted
Opposite page, clockwise: Pai Thai; a selection of dishes at Asia De Cuba; Asia
De Cuba terrace; Pai Thai's sticky rice and mango; Pla Yang Sa Moon Pai.
This page, clockwise: Japanese-leaning cuisine at Seasalt; art on a plate in
Seminyak; grouse is a speciality; a taste of the country inside Maggie Jones

Global Gourmet
Seasalt Seminyak, BALI
Where better to feast on the freshest seafood than on the
balmy banks of the Bali Sea? While it’s part of the chic Alila
hotel, modern restaurant Seasalt stands on merit as a dining
destination in its own right. Light, Japanese- leaning plates are
the order of the day and tickling white sand in the middle of a
tropical paradise, it seems appropriate. While the vibe is easy
– think a stylish blue-hued seaside residence and linen-clad
diners – the food is both creative and refined.
Vibrant vegetarian dishes such as avocado-laced Kyoto
hummus with raw broccoli and edamame truly sing, as do
roasted beets with slivers of sweet potato on a bed of carrot
and red miso purée. Bonito, from sea-to-table, packs a punch
with dashi mayo and wasabi, while local baramundi with ginger
is a thing of beauty. Salt-baked snapper (below) is a good
sharing dish to ensure there’s room for dessert. Simply named,
‘Citrus’ is our pick, featuring Bali lime sabayon, orange gel
and lemon milk sorbet. For a touch of coastal cool and clean
eating, this gem is as good as it gets. BG. +62 361 3021 889,
seasaltseminyak.com

TIMELESS CLASSIC
Maggie Jones Kensington
This former haunt of Princess Margaret remains true to its perfect formula of comfort food and cosiness
From Trump to technology, we seem to be living in a time of flux, so it’s comforting to know that some
things are a constant. Maggie Jones has sat in the heart of Kensington since 1964; a bastion of British
eccentricity among the swell of expensive clothes shops and over-branded cafés that drift through this
area like flotsam.
When it first opened, as Nan’s Kitchen, it quickly became a favourite with Princess Margaret and Lord
Snowdon for its excellent service and discreet location in an unassuming alley off Kensington Church
Street. The pair used to book under the alias Maggie Jones, slip into an intimate wooden booth and
order chicken pie. Eventually the restaurant changed its name to honour the royal connection.
The pock-marked front door leads straight into the 1970s. Creaky wooden floorboards and scrubbed
pine tables are reminiscent of an Alpine ski chalet, while the walls and ceiling are adorned with what
looks like the contents of every curio shop on Portobello Road.
An abominably large Welsh dresser strains under the weight of mismatched willow pattern plates and
old kitchen utensils, while everything from cartwheels to baskets of lavender dangle above. The top floor,
with its sloping eaves, is the perfect place to while away a November afternoon. However, you’ll need to
book early to wrestle
a table away from the army of regulars who now consider a roast at Maggie’s an essential element
of their Sunday ritual. It’s fair to say that Martin Anteria Silva – who has been executive chef for more
than 30 years – has very little interest in trends. His menu is made up of beautifully cooked nursery
favourites such as liver and bacon, given a smart edge for the sophisticated London clientele. Rich onion
soup with glistening pools of butter on top transports us to rustic country kitchens, while a huge portion
of smoky fish pie with a crown of neatly piped mash is as comforting as a hot bath on a chilly evening.
Fluffy bread and butter pudding with intensely spiced raisins and custard is living proof of the maxim that
practice makes perfect.The rates are reasonable for London, but the place would still be packed if they
weren’t. The truth is that Maggie Jones has something you can’t put a price on; the ingredient which we
all crave now more than ever – authenticity. IL. +44 20 7937 6462, maggie-jones.co.uk

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 89

 Places to
Stay
This month, we enjoy all out Maldivian
luxury, channel creative cool in Miami, rub
shoulders with the ‘it’ crowd at London’s
launch of the year, live like a Sultan in Dubai,
and cosset ourselves in Cambodian luxury

Anantara Angkor Resort CAMBODIA

Following extensive renovations Anantara Angkor Resort is an allsuite retreat, has
unveiled two luxurious presidential suites: the Henri Mouhot and Anantara Explorer
Suites. The two-bedroom, 235m2 Henri Mouhot Suite pays tribute to the French
naturalist and explorer, and first westerner, to set eyes on the ruins of Angkor,
capital of Cambodia’s ancient Khmer civilisation; and the 178m2 one-bedroom
Anantara Explorer Suite which is inspired by another intrepid explorer, Jim
Thompson, and founder of the world renowned Jim Thompson Thai Silk Company.
Meticulously designed to accommodate the requirements of the most discerning

Words by Rosemary Barron; Stephanie Dobrijevic; Lizzie Frainier; Blossom Green; Mark Sansom
clientele, the two suites are reminiscent of a Khmer summer home and are the
epitome of old world sophistication, with imported Thai silk and fabrics overflowing
throughout, draping the furniture in bold colours. With ample indoor and outdoor living
spaces to comfortably accommodate families or small groups, both suites feature
a lounge and bar area complete with a grape humidor; two dining areas; marble
bathrooms, bathtub and oversized rain shower; dressing room; a private spa room

with a Jacuzzi bath tub, deep plunge and massage area; and a plunge pool in an
enclosed private garden.
In the Henri Mouhot Suite, a beautiful sandstone relief pay homage to the nearby
ruins of Angkor amidst a colonial backdrop of tongue and groove ceilings, whilst a
decorative wall panelling separates the master bedroom and lounge in the Anantara
Explorer Suite. Each suite offers a luxurious welcome respite after an adventurous
day of exploring one of the most important archaeological sites in Southeast Asia,
whether savouring a decadent bubbly high tea or al fresco dining on progressive
Khmer cuisine under the stars. The Anantara Angkor Resort offers all its guests
complimentary chauffeured roundtrip airport transfers; butler service to create
bucket list adventures; unlimited private tuk tuk transfers to and from city centre;
personal mobile phone; complimentary insuite bar; bottled water; daily fresh fruit,
savouries and sweets; and complimentary drinks during the daily Lounge Hour in
the resort’s traditional courtyard that evokes Angkor’s monumental heritage. And if
you are residing in either the Henri Mouhot or Anantara Explorer Suite, you will also
enjoy complimentary laundry service; insuite spa treatments; and a daily hour long
treatment at Anantara Spa.
To discover more or to make a reservation contact +855 63 966 788 or angkor@
anantara.com
Photos by Todd Eberle; Felix Hug; Nik Koenig; Simon Brown; Alex Abril
QASR AL SULTAN DUBAI
Qasr Al Sultan is a new lifestyle boutique hotel situated in
the Dubai desert, not far from Dubai Parks and Resorts.
The décor is inspired by Sultan’s of days gone by, with
features drawn from nature and the Dubai landscape to
deliver a natural relaxing atmosphere. Privacy is paramount
at the hotel and each of the twelve suites have their own
private entrance, secluded parking, Jacuzzi, and private
gardens; with a personal butler, available to cater for your
every need. Other facilities in each suite include a plush
majlis seating area, and a study complete with writing
desk. Qasr Al Sultan is a short walk from the bakhoor-
scented majlis, traditional souk, food bazaar, library,
playground and the historical Dukan Zaman exhibition.
For more information visit www.qasralsultan.ae or email
reservations@qasralsultan.ae

90 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


MILAIDHOO MALDIVES
Get ready to swoon over every inch of design on Milaidhoo Island. Opened
at the end of 2016, this Maldives resort has tip-top interiors and exteriors
to match the standout natural beauty of the island. All of the thatched-roof
villas (beachside
or overwater) come with freshwater infinity pools, hanging swing chairs,
oversized daybeds and 180-degree views of the Indian Ocean and its
infinite shades of sparkling blue.
Inside, you’ll find bright pops of hot pink and marine blue in the soft
furnishings, set off by sleek white walls. Look out for fun details like the
clock that resembles a seaplane, a TV hidden behind framed art and fresh
tropical fruit is delivered daily under a glass dome. The huge bathrooms
are a highlight, decked out with honeycomb tiles, full-size Acqua di Parma
FAENA HOTEL MIAMI BEACH
This hotel may only be two years old, but its five bars, three
restaurants and elegant poolside have already established it as
one of the best in the city. In its former incarnation, this beguiling
Art Deco hotel around ten minutes north of South Beach was a
hangout for Frank Sinatra and his Hollywood chums. Today, it’s at
the heart of the Faena District, where the arrival of a dynamic arts
centre has transformed the neighbourhood.
The cool crowd channel their inner Tennessee Williams while
downing cocktails at the Living Room bar amid a riot of red velvet,
gold palm trees and tiger print. Meanwhile in Los Fuegos restaurant,
Argentine chef Francis Mallmann invokes gaucho-cooking in its
purest form, with just fire, grill and meat. You’ll also find local
grouper or wild king prawn, wood- oven empanadas, dulce de
leche pancakes and a good grape list.
Retire to rooms splashed with rich red and turquoise and ocean-
front balconies that blend the style of their deco past with modern
comfort. Breakfast on blueberry beignets or a South Beach
scramble of avocado, local crab and fresh fruit before the nearby
pool and swathe of sandy beach entice you on a stroll past
palm trees and Damien Hirst’s gilded woolly mammoth skeleton
sculpture. RB. Doubles from $415. faena.com
Sleep
Tried & Tasted
toiletries and custom-made baths for two. The whole space is made for
combining indoor and outdoor living, with sliding glass doors that can be
completely pulled back. If you do leave your villa (trust us, it’s hard), there’s
a whole underwater world to be explored in the Unesco-protected Baa
Atoll that’s quite literally on your doorstep. Let the current take you round
as you linger a while to watch fish darting in and out of sea anemone. For
a particularly special experience, be sure to book a lunch on the nearby
sandbank where you’ll spend your day picnicking on fresh sushi and
champagne in the middle of the ocean. Swim, relax, eat, repeat. Round off
your day with dinner under the sails at Ba’theli – three traditional fishing
boats in the water serving fabulous local dishes such as Maldivian lobster
curry and pandan-wrapped yellowfin tuna. LF. Half board from $1.055.
milaidhoo.com
THE NED LONDON
It’s simply impossible not to be impressed by the endless style revealed
at every turnat The Ned. It was the most hotly anticipated hotel launch in
the UK this year and lives up to billing. The scale is huge, which is a fine
excuse to revisit, if you ask us. Columns of green verdite marble frame the
lobby – home to seven restaurants and bars – where up to 1,000 people
can be found milling through at any one time. It’s got all the hustle of New
York’s Grand Central station, without any of the stress. Live jazz and French
classics drift from the Nickel Bar, providing an easy backdrop to a people-
watching afternoon where you’ll likely spot a famous face or two. Soho
House and the Sydell Group have done a fine job converting the Grade-I
Midland Bank HQ, which was designed by the eponymous Ned Lutyens in
1924. Attention to detail is outstanding: think Twenties deco- glam meets
modern luxe with a number of Lutyen’s hallmark features. Grand bedrooms
(252 in total) reveal plush velvet, a rich colour palette, vintage pieces,
ornate textiles and palm-leaf chandeliers, as well as the biggest baths you’ll
ever slump in. Elsewhere, don’t miss The Vault, a cool bar housed in the old
safe deposit; the rootop pool area for its chilled vibe and cityscapes; and
Cowshed spa with its dusky-pink hammam. A bone fide staycation and our
new favourite crashpad – The Ned, we salute you. BG. Doubles from $275.
thened.com

For better-tasting food and your own peace of mind, use sustainably and locally produced ingredients if possible. Eggs should always be free-range.
THE PANTRY
PAGES 20-24
Creamy tofu dip with
honey and cumin roasted
vegetables
SERVES 4
200g silken tofu, drained
Zest of ½ lemon and 2 tbsp.
juice
1 tsp onion powder
1 ½ tbsp. Japanese rice vinegar
½ garlic clove, crushed
2 tsp Dijon mustard
1 bunch dill, fronds picked and
chopped
350g baby carrots, scrubbed
2 tbsp. olive oil
2 tbsp. runny honey
1 tbsp. cumin seeds
Handful chopped parsley
92 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
NOVEMBER
1 teaspoon is 5ml; 1 tablespoon is 15ml
Put the tofu, lemon zest and juice,
onion powder, vinegar, garlic and
mustard in a blender and blitz until
smooth, adding a splash of water
to loosen if necessary. Transfer to
a bowl and season generously.
Chill in the fridge until needed.
Preheat the oven to 200C,
gas mark 6. Tip the baby carrots
onto a large baking tray lined with
baking paper. Drizzle with the olive
oil, honey and cumin seeds and
mix well. Roast in the oven for 25
minutes.
Fold the chopped dill into the
dip. Arrange the carrots on a large
serving plate, scatter over the
parsley and serve with the dip.
Spiced sweet potato
casserole with
marshmallows
SERVES 4
2 large sweet potatoes,
scrubbed
1 tbsp. olive oil
60g light brown sugar
55g butter, melted, plus extra
for greasing
4 sprigs thyme, leaves picked
1 tsp ground cinnamon, plus
extra for dusting
½ tsp finely grated nutmeg
25g walnuts, toasted and
chopped
Zest of half an orange
100g mini marshmallows
Preheat the oven to 200C, gas
mark 6. Grease an ovenproof
baking dish. Prick the potatoes
several times with a fork. Rub
all over with the oil, season
generously and cook for 45
minutes - 1 hour until very tender.
Once cool enough to handle,
cut the potato in half lengthways
and scoop the flesh into a bowl.
Discard the skin. Add the brown
sugar, melted butter, thyme leaves,
cinnamon, nutmeg, walnuts and
orange zest. Season and mix well.
Transfer to the greased baking
dish, spread out in an even layer
and smooth the surface with the
back of a spoon.
Arrange the marshmallows on
top and cook for 12-15 minutes
until the marshmallows are starting
to turn golden brown. Dust lightly
with cinnamon just before serving.
Crispy five-spice tofu with
soy, sesame and ginger
dipping sauce
SERVES 4
600g firm tofu, drained
2 tbsp. soy sauce
1 tbsp. sesame oil
2cm piece ginger, finely sliced
into matchsticks
2 red chillies, roughly chopped
3 tbsp. white sesame seeds
2 tbsp. mustard seeds
70g panko breadcrumbs
1 tsp Chinese five-spice
2 egg whites
Vegetable oil, for frying
Salad leaves, to serve
Lime wedges, to serve
Arrange the tofu on a plate lined
with kitchen paper and cover with
more paper towels. Put a large
plate on top, add a frying pan or
chopping board, then weigh down
with heavy cans or jars. Leave
for at least 30 minutes. Make the
dipping sauce by stirring together
the soy sauce, sesame oil, ginger
and chilli. Add 1 tbsp. white
sesame seeds and set aside.
Mix the mustard seeds,
remaining sesame seeds, panko
breadcrumbs and five-spice
together, season generously
and tip onto a plate. Whisk the
egg whites together in a shallow
dish until fluffy. Slice the tofu into
rectangles approximately 5cm by
3cm.
Dip the tofu slices in the egg
white, covering completely, then
press into the sesame seed mix,
turning to coat all over. Set a large
non-stick frying pan with 2 tbsp.
vegetable oil over a medium-high
heat. Cook the tofu in batches
for 1-2 minutes on each side until
golden and crisp, adding more oil
when necessary. Drain on kitchen
paper and season with salt.
Arrange the salad leaves on a
platter or board and add the tofu,
lime wedges and dipping sauce.
Serve immediately.
Sweet potato, dark
chocolate and cinnamon
cookies
MAKES 12-15
1 large sweet potato
1 tsp ground cinnamon
180g butter, softened, plus extra
for greasing
200g soft light brown sugar
1 egg
150g dark chocolate, chopped
80g pecans, toasted and
chopped
280g plain flour
1 tsp baking powder
½ tsp sea salt flakes
Preheat the oven to 200C, gas
mark 46. Grease and line 2 large
baking trays with baking paper.
Prick the sweet potato several
times with a fork. Cook in the
oven for 45 minutes -1 hour until
very tender. Once cool enough
to handle, cut the potato in half
lengthways and scoop the flesh
into a bowl. Discard the skin.
Add the cinnamon and mash until
smooth.
Whisk the butter and sugar
together in a large bowl until light
and fluffy. Beat in the egg, then stir
in the mashed sweet potato, dark
chocolate and pecans. Sift over
the flour, baking powder and salt
and gently fold in. Drop heaped
spoonfuls of the mixture onto the
prepared trays and press lightly to
flatten. Bake for 15-20 minutes,
until golden.
Transfer to a wire rack and leave
to cool completely.
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 93
 RECIPES
VEGETARIAN
MASTERCLASS
PAGES 78-85
Cardamom oatmeal with
fresh pomegranates,
raspberries and raisins
SERVES 2
100g rolled jumbo oats
4 crushed cardamom pods
250 ml oat milk
3 tbsp. pomegranates seeds
2 tbsp. raisins
6 raspberries
Agave syrup to drizzle
Put the oats into a saucepan
and add the crushed cardamom
pods. Pour in the oat milk.
94 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
Simmer for 10 min until the oats
are cooked, stirring continuously.
Ladle into bowls and serve with
pomegranates seeds, raisins and
raspberries and a drizzle of agave
syrup.
Asparagus, buffalo
mozzarella and feta quiche
SERVES 6-8
Pastry dough:
300g flour
150g butter, cubed, plus 1 tbsp.
for greasing
Filling:
130g asparagus tips
1 tsp olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
100g feta cheese, crumbled
125g buffalo mozzarella, cut in
slices
3 organic eggs
300 ml crème fraiche
2 tbsp. fresh mint, finely
chopped salt/pepper
To make the pastry dough, put
the flour and butter into a large
bowl and rub them together with
your fingertips until the mixture
resembles fine crumbs. Add 4
tablespoons of chilled water and
use a blunt kitchen knife to bring
the dough together, then use your
hands to shape it into a smooth
ball. Turn the dough out onto a
floured surface and knead gently
and briefly. Wrap in plastic wrap
and chill for 30 min.
Preheat oven to 180 degrees
and grease a 25cm fluted tart pan
with a removable base.
Roll the chilled dough out on
a lightly floured surface, then
carefully transfer to the prepared
pan, pressing it into the sides and
trimming and discarding the edges.
Prick the dough with a fork and
line with parchment paper and pie
weights (baking beans). Sit the pan
on a baking sheet and bake blind
for 10 min. Remove the paper and
beans and bake for another 10
mins, until lightly golden.
To make the filling, blanche the
asparagus tips briefly in boiling
water. Drain and rinse under
cold water, then pat dry and set
aside. Heat the oil in a skillet and
sauté the onion until soft but not
browned. Sauté the garlic and fry
for 1 min. Spread the onions and
garlic over the pastry, then add the
asparagus tips, buffalo mozzarella
and feta cheese.
Whisk the eggs with the crème
fraiche, add mint, and season
with salt and pepper. Pour into the
pastry shell, then return to the oven
and bake for 30 min, or till the filling
is golden and just set.
Remove from the oven and let
set, then slice and serve while still
hot.

Avocado and peas dip
SERVES 4
2 ripe avocados 100g fresh or
frozen peas
3 tbsp. tahini Juice of 1 lemon
1 garlic clove
½ tsp cumin seeds, toasted
Salt and pepper
1 small brunch mint, plus extra
to garnish
Handful pine nuts, toasted
Lebanese bread, toasted to
serve
Cook the peas in a boiling water
for 3 min (less if fresh) and refresh
immediately in cold water to retain
colour. Combine all the ingredients,
except the pine nuts, in blender
and until smooth. Garnish with the
pine nuts and garnish with a sprig
of mint and drizzle with olive oil
Serve with Lebanese bread.
Ratatouille with poached
egg
SERVES 2
1 large onion, chopped
1 red pepper, deseeded and
thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tbsp. chopped rosemary 1
aubergine - diced 2 courgettes -
diced 400g chopped tomatoes 1
tbsp. balsamic vinegar 4 organic
eggs Handful basil leaves
Chopped chives
1 tablespoon olive oil
Heat the olive oil in a large frying
pan, add onion, pepper, garlic and
rosemary, then cook for 5 to 8 min,
stirring frequently, until the onion
has softened. Add the aubergine
and courgettes, then cook for 3
mins more. Add the tomatoes,
then fill the can with water, swirl it
around and tip into the pan, and
bring to the boil. Then cover, and
simmer for 40 min, uncovering after
20 min, until reduced and pulpy.
Stir the vinegar into the ratatouille,
then make 4 spaces for the eggs.
Crack an egg into each space and
season with black pepper. Cover,
then cook for 25 min until soft or
to taste.
Garnish with basil, chopped
chives and serve with some crusty
bread to mop up the juice.
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 95
 RECIPES
Lentil, mushroom, and
cashew burgers
SERVES 6
150g dried green lentils, rinsed
5 garlic cloves, 1 whole and 4
crushed
2 tbsp. olive oil
2 red onions, finely chopped
1 tsp Lebanese
7 spice seasoning
½ tsp ground cumin
½ tsp ground coriander
½ tsp cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon za’atar
250g chopped mushrooms
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
110g cashew nuts finely
chopped
4 tbsp. bread crumbs
10 dried apricots or dry figs
Sunflower oil for frying
Salt, pepper
Buns
Lettuce, tomatoes, diced
cucumber and sprouts
Labneh to serve (optional)
Put the lentils into a saucepan with
the whole garlic clove and cover
with a boiling water. Cook over
simmering heat for 35 min, or until
96 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
the lentils are soft. Meanwhile, heat
the oil in a frying pan and sauté
the onions until they are soft and
slightly coloured. Add the crushed
garlic and spices and cook for
5 mins, until the onions begin to
brown slightly, add the mushrooms
to the bowl and mix together with a
spoon. Set aside.
Drain the lentils before
transferring them into a large bowl.
Mash with a fork until smooth,
then add them to the mushroom
mixture along with the chopped
apricots or figs and season with
salt and pepper. Mould the mixture
into 6 patties with wet hands. if it
is crumbly, put in the fridge for 30
min, until firm.
Heat a few tablespoons of
sunflower oil in a large frying pan
over medium heat. Add 2 patties
and cook for 3 or 4 min. Turn
carefully and cook the other side.
Repeat with the remaining patties.
Once cooked drain briefly on paper
towels; then carefully transfer onto
a plate and serve with the buns,
lettuce , sliced tomatoes and finally
add labneh, diced cucumbers and
sprouts .
Bulgur wheat, tomato, feta
and pomegranate salad
SERVES 4-6
250g wheat, rinsed
2 tomatoes
½ cucumber
4 tbsp. olive oil
2 tbsp. pomegranate molasses
Pinch of salt
1 small brunch mint leaves -
coarsely chopped
1 small brunch parsley leaves -
coarsely chopped
150g chopped walnuts
200g feta cheese crumbled
Seeds of 1 pomegranate
Put the wheat in a saucepan
with 500 ml water, salt and a
tablespoon of olive oil. cover with
a lid and bring to boil over medium
heat. Turn the heat down to a
simmer and cook until the grains
become tender, adding more water
if necessary. it will take about 50
min. When cooked, drain off any
excess water and let the wheat
cool.
For the dressing, combine
3 tablespoons of olive oil, the
pomegranate molasses, half of the
chopped mint and parsley, salt and
mix well. in another bowl, combine
the wheat with the rest of chopped
herbs, tomatoes, and cucumber,
feta, and pomegranate seeds and
mix well. Pour over the dressing
and toss together.
Sweet potato, chickpea
and dried fruit falafel
SERVES 8
200g sweet potato
½ onion
1 garlic clove
1 tbsp. olive oil
240g chickpeas, drained and
rinsed
1 orange
10g raisins or cranberries
20g dates
50g chickpea flour 1 punch of
salt 3 tbsp. chopped mint 3
tbsp. chopped parsley
25g almonds 25g hazelnuts
To serve: 1 lettuce 1 tbsp. tahini
2 tbsp. pomegranate molasses
or fresh orange juice
1 soy yogurt pot or milk yogurt
Pinch of cumin
1 pomegranate
Peel the potato and cut it into
pieces, cook in small amount of
water for about 20 min till tender.
Heat olive oil in a sauce pan and
sauté the onion and garlic until soft
but not brown. Combine sweet
potato, onion, garlic and chickpeas
and mix well. The mixture should
be smooth but retain some texture. Fruity couscous with Remove from heat and pour the
Addthe orange zest, raisins, and almond milk semolina in all at once, mix well,
chopped dates, flour, herbs and SERVES 4 cover and let rise 5 min. Add 30g
pinch of salt. Put in the fridge for of butter and fluff with a fork. Halve
about 30 min. In a blender mix 200 ml almond milk the figs, grapes and raspberries
the almonds and hazelnuts till they Pinch of cinnamon, ginger, and gently fold with zest of lemon,
become a powder. vanilla, cardamom chopped almonds, pistachios and
Heat oven to 180 degrees, 3 tbsp. coco sugar cranberries. Let cool and put it in
make some nice rounded falafel 120g fine semolina the fridge.
patties and roll into the almond, 30g butter When serving drizzle honey over
hazelnut crumbs. cook for about 5 figs the top.
30 min.Rinse the salad leaves 8 grapes halved
and dry them . Mix tahini and 6 raspberries
pomegranate molasses (or orange 5 almonds chopped
juice), yogurt and cumin. Place 2 5 pistachios chopped
falafel patties on a salad leave, add 2 tablespoons cranberries
yogurt and pomegranate seeds Zest of one lemon
and serve. Honey to drizzle
Heat almond milk in a saucepan
over medium heat with spices and
coconut sugar .
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 97
 Clockwise from top: Chef John Burton-Race; Grosvenor
Hotel, Torquay; Lynmouth harbour, North Devon; Michel
Roux Jr at Le Gavroche; Singapore street food; dessert
LAST WORD WITH at Lympstone Manor; wine in Provence

John
Burton-Race
The globetrotting chef learnt his trade in South East Asia and has
found home in Devon, by way France and the Middle East.

Where did you last go on holiday? Every September I go to Crillon le Brave in Provence. The food at both of its
restaurants is amazing and at Bistrot 40K all the ingredients are sourced within 40km of the hotel. I believe good food is 50
per cent excellent ingredients and the rest is down to the chef. The food in Provence is my favourite in France. They have red
mullet and sea bass from the Mediterranean, powerful cheeses and a sweet wine called Pipi d’Ange, which is delicious
and top value.

What are your earliest food memories? My father worked for the United Nations and I lived in Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore, and
went to school in Thailand. We always had local cooks and I remember sneaking into the kitchen and learning Asian techniques, such as
tenderising chicken by marinating it in papaya, lime and chilli overnight. My grandma was an old-fashioned cook who used to serve very
traditional English desserts like tipsy pudding. It’s a cross between Christmas and sticky toffee puddings, served with whisky caramel.

What makes Devon’s natural larder so special? I’ll never move away from Devon. It’s one of the most beautiful places in the UK and has
its own microclimate. It’s so warm that farmers can rear beautiful, tender lamb all year round. The shellfish is amazing: scallops from
Babbacombe, crabs from Dartmouth and oysters from Bigbury. The cheese is fantastic, too.

Photos by Carl Pendle; Mark Parren Taylor; Issy Croker; Stefano Scata
Which restaurants do you like in the South West? I love casual places that champion regional food at a fair price point. The Maltsters
Arms at Tuckenhay does great seafood, but the best fish and chips is at Torcross Boathouse. My favourite pub is Tower Inn at Slapton,
where Dominique Prandi cooks great value French cuisine. The newly opened Lympstone Manor, headed by Michael Caines isn’t cheap,
but does excellent food.

What elevates a dish from good to great? There are loads of cooks out there who are very good technically and produce a
consistently high standard, and these tend to be your one-star Michelin level. I held two stars across three restaurants for 17
years, and in order to achieve two stars you have to go beyond technique. My style is constantly evolving. Traditional French
is where my heart is and I rate Michel Roux Jr and Le Gavroche.

Where do you get your inspiration for a new dish? Eating out in France influences me more than anything. I
love their approach to food, the way every region has its own speciality and food is a way of life. Outside
Paris you still get the two-hour lunch followed by an afternoon nap and you’ll see children of all ages in
restaurants. I keep a young brigade who can feed off my knowledge and are eager to make their
own mark, but the most important thing is enthusiasm, which keeps me experimenting.

To try John’s food, book a table at John Burton-Race at

The Grosvenor in Torquay. grosvenorhoteltorquay.co.uk
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