Year of Examination: 2019

Date of Submission: February 22nd, 2019

Subject: Geography

Unit: 1

Candidate Number: 1600660719

Candidate Name: Jada-Ashley John

Title of the Project: An Examination of Wave Characteristics and Development of Coastal

Features at Las Cuevas Bay between the hours of 11:00AM - 1:00PM

Teacher: Ms. York

Table of Contents
Type chapter title (level 1) 1
Type chapter title (level 2) 2
Type chapter title (level 3) 3
Type chapter title (level 1) 4
Type chapter title (level 2) 5
Type chapter title (level 3) 6
Statement of Purpose
A coast is a typically defined as the land along the sea. The coast is a product of the
geomorphological elements water, air and rock. According to Stephen A. Nelson (April 2018) the
coastal zone is the interface between land and water and the coastline is the boundary of where
the land meets water. The coastal zone is an ever-changing feature as it is susceptible to many
processes, this includes erosion and deposition. The relationship between the land and the water
is the main cause of the changing coastline overtime. Coasts are very important as they used for a
multiple amount of resources and services for humans. Coasts provide for tourism, mining,
finishing industry, settlement, agriculture and trade. Studying coasts are very important as the
coasts is ever changing needs to be studied to ensure that the changes do not affect the human
activities occurring at the coast.

Las Cuevas is a popular Bay on the Northern coast of Trinidad. It is very popular to
tourists whom visit the island as well as for the local’s use of recreational purpose. Las Cuevas
has a wide range of coastal landforms, including those at various stages. This wide range
landforms allows for material and data for the aims of this investigation. Las Cuevas’ landforms
are everchanging as seen from observations of the previous year and this year. Las Cuevas is also
a Blue Flag Beach which means it has met the stringent standards of the Foundation for
Environmental Education. Studying Las Cuevas will ensure that it obtains the standards of its
Blue Flag Beach certification.

In this investigation we will be determining how the type of wave influences the beach
profile at Las Cueva Bay. How the type of wave affects the longshore drift as well as the types of
landforms created along the coast at that day and at that time will also be investigated.
Methodology

Synopsis of the area

Las Cuevas Bay is located on the North Coast of Trinidad in the St. George County, 10°N and
61°W. It has a length around 3.2 miles which gives for a large variation of coastal landforms. Las
Cuevas has a gentle slope which is popular for recreational purposes such as beach bathing. Las
Cuevas is also a Blue Flag Beach which means it has very good environmental conditions in
order to meet the strict criteria that of the Foundation for Environmental Education.
Map of Trinidad showing the location of the study area in relation to the capital city, major
towns, roads and mountain ranges.
Map of the Study Area
Qualitative or Quantitative

In order to receive data for wave height, wave frequency, longshore drift and beach profile a
quantitative approach was taken where measurements were taken. Whereas for coastal landforms
a qualitative approach was taken.

Primary Data Collection

Aim Equipment Methodology Pictures of

To measure wave
frequency in order to
determine whether the
waves are
constructive (beach
building) or
destructive (beach
destroying).
Method/Equipment
1. The number of
 Stopwatch waves that broke per
minute was counted.
Using a stop watch
to keep check of the
time.
Stopwatch
2. The process was
repeated 5 times,
noting the number of
waves each time.

3. The average number

of waves breaking
Breaking wave
per minute was
calculated.

To measure wave 1. The rod was placed

height in order to  Measuring in the water a
determine if the tape distance offshore so
waves are that it touches the
constructive (< 1m) or  Long rod sand.
destructive (> 1m). or ranging
pole 2. The depth of the Ranging pole
water from the sea
bed to the top of the
about to break wave
was measured.

3. This process was

repeated for 5-10
waves and the
average height of the
waves was found.
To measure longshore 1. An appropriate
drift in order to  Stopwatch distance to measure
determine whether the longshore drift was
beach material is  Football decided, around 10
being built up and meters.
eroded or being  Tape
transported and built measure 2. The tape measure Football in water
along the beach. was used to measure
the distance and the
start and finish
points were marked.

3. The football was

thrown into the
water at the start
point.

4. As the football
moved across the
water it was
observed and timed.

To measure the 1. Measuring tape was

swash and the Measuring used to measure the
tape swash from the
backwash in order breaking wave to the
to determine if furthest inland
material was being travelled.
deposited on the
beach by swash or 2. The length of the
taken away by backwash was
measured as it
backwash. retreaded to the sea.

To observe the types  Pencil 1. At the various

of landforms created coastal landforms,
along the coast at that  Eraser pictures and notes
day and at that time were taken as
 Plain observations were
paper made.

 Clipboard

 Camera
To measure the beach 1. Sampling points
profile to determine  Tape across the width of
whether it is gentle measure the beach was
sloping as a result of selected.
constructive wave or  Ranging
steeply sloping as a poles 2. At each change in
result of destructive height, a ranging
Clinometer
waves.  Clinomete pole was placed at
r or the start and finish.
pentamete Point A was at the
r low tide mark.

 Compass 3. The main changes in

slope angle up the
beach were noted
 Recording and were used to
sheet inform the ‘sections’
for the profile.
 Meter rule
4. A sprit level was Spirit level
used to ensure that
 Spirit
the measuring tape
level
was even.

5. For each change in

slope, the clinometer
was used to take a
bearing to record the Meter rule
slope angle and a
ruler was used to
measure the distance
from the ground to
the measuring tape.

From the primary sources both quantitative and qualitative data was obtained. These were used
to calculate certain features the types of wave present at the beach and how it contributed to
landforms present along the coast as well as the beach processes that occurred at that day at that
time.
Secondary Sources

No secondary sources were used in this investigation.

Statistical Analysis

For wave height and frequency, the wave was calculated five attempts were taken i.e. the total
amount over the number of times

Number of ׿
Total amount
¿

To determine the beach profile the gradient was calculated. In order to calculate the gradient, the
distance was placed below the change in height i.e. the height was divided by the distance.

Vertical distance
Horizontal distance

Al calculations are seen in the appendix.

Skills Assessed

In this IA the skills assessed were:

 Maps
 Photographs
 Diagrams
 Field sketches

Limitations

 The time frame was between 11AM-1PM I the day which is around high tide.

 The beach contained multiple ridges which affected the longshore drift.
Description of Findings

Wave Frequency

Wave frequency is the number of waves per minute that break on a shore or also known
as the time it takes a wave to travel through one wavelength. Wave frequency is calculated by
counting the number or waves that break at a certain point in one minute. The waves are counted
multiple times to get an average. Wave frequency is an essential characteristic in order to
determine whether the waves at that day at that time were either destructive or contrastive i.e.
beach building or beach destroying. Waves with frequencies that are <9 are usually Constructive
Waves and waves with a wave frequency of > 9 are Destructive Waves.

LONG WAVE LENGTH IS RESPONSIBLE FOR STRONG SWASH

THE LOW WAVE FREQENCY

B A
WEAK BACKWASH

Time Number of waves per minute

1st 6
2nd 5
3rd 5
4th 4
5th 5

Average number of waves per minute =5

Wave Height

The wave height (C on the diagram above) is the distance between the crest (A) and
trough (B) of a wave i.e. from the top of A in the diagram to B. Wave height can be calculated by
measuring the distance from the crest (A) to the trough (B) of the wave using a measuring rod.
Wave height is important as it determines whether a wave is constructive <1m or destructive
>1m which contributes to the formation of features along the coast on that day i.e. either beach
building or beach destroying.

Wave Height(m)
1 1.25
2 1.25
3 1
4 1.25
5 1
6 1..75
7 1.5

Average wave height =1.3 m

Longshore drift

Diagram showing longshore drift

Longshore drift is the movement of materials across the shore in a zigzag pattern by the
action of the swash and backwash of breaking waves that approach the coast at an angle due to
the direction of the wind. It is important to the coast because it is responsible for most coastal
features of deposition like a berm or spit. It is also important to the study as it can show if the
waves were transporting materials along the coastline to create coastal features such as a berm or
a spit.

Time taken for the football to reach from Point A to Point B (30m) = 5 minutes and 10 seconds

The wind direction at that day at that time was NE.

Swash and Backwash

When a wave breaks the water that ruses up the shore is known as the swash and the
water from the previous wave which returns to the sea is called the backwash. The swash of a
wave deposits materials unto the beach and the backwash drag materials off the beach back to
the sea. This determines whether the waves were destructive to destroy the beach of constructive
to build the beach.

WATER RUSHES UP THE

BEACH; SWASH

WATER FROM PREVIOUS WAVE

RETURNS TO THE SEA AS BACKWASH
DUE TO GRAVITY

Diagram showing swash and backwash

Length of swash =27m

Length of backwash =13.5m

Coastal Landforms
Beach Profile

A beach profile is a cross-sectional view of a beach. It can be studied to determine

if the waves at the beach are destructive or constructive. The foreshore being closest to
the sea, the backshore furthest inland with the foreshore in-between. After the backshore
there is a steep cliff where the waves cannot reach in order to erode.

Ofshore Foreshore Backshore

Clif

High tide
Low tide Beach
Wave cut platform Highest water line
High tide shoreline (Coastline)
Low tide shoreline

Diagram showing a typical Beach profile

Distance(m) Gradient Height(cm)

(Degrees/°)
A-B 2.4 9 86
B-C 2.0 2 35.5
C-D 3.0 1 9.4
D-E 2.2 1 25.6
E-F 1.1 32 166
F-G 2.6 60 166.1
G-H 5.5 42 250