Antiperspirants and Deodrants

Perspiration is physiologically important since it:

• Regulates body temperature
• Eliminate lactic acid released from muscle exercise
• Protect skin from dryness

1. It is estimated that 2,380,000 sweat glands are distributed in skin, with lower
parts having less concentrations of the sweat glands.
2. Sebaceous glands are found with every hair, where sebum is made of:
• Cholesterol
• Cholesterol esters
• Palmitic and stearic acid
• Esters of palmitic and stearic acids
• Other substances
3. Odor in skin is produced from secretions of both sebaceous and sweat glands,
however lab tests show that excreted sweat is sterile and odorless at the time
of the discharge
4. It is bacteria which converts some secretions into the undesired sweat odor,
however, it is believed that sebum is not a critical factor in skin odor.
Decomposition of sebaceous gland secretions by skin microflora and
decomposition of proteins and lipids give rise to numerous odorous substances
of strong smell. This mixture produces natural body odor. This mixture
contains:
• C4 – C10 fatty acids
• Steroids
• Lactones
• Peptides
• Glycerol
• Etc
These have no odor themselves. The basic skin odor of an individual or group is
also affected by food eaten. Two persons may smell differently even though they
are identically dressed, washed, and perfumed. Humans may find it difficult to
recognize the difference, but a dog can. Therefore, body odor is a completely
individual property of a human being, exactly as the fingerprint. The intensity of
body odor is also a characteristic of an individual.

The modern story of topical antiperspirants began with the observation of Stillians
in 1916 that a 25% solution of AlCl3.6H2O in distilled water dabbed gently on the
armpit was capable of reducing excessive sweating. It should be appreciated that
till now Stillian's formulation is still one of the most effective antiperspirant
formulations. This formulation was proved neither toxic nor allergic, however:
• It is irritating to skin
• Its acidity was damaging to clothing

A major development in 1940 used a less acidic compound called aluminum

chlorohydroxide, which is:
• Less irritating
• Less damaging to cloth

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However, it was also less effective.

Antiperspirant Ingredients

Many metal salts were investigated, the most effective were those of Al, Zr, Zn, Fe,
Cr, Pb, and Hg. However, due to toxicity in some cases and staining characters in
others, only salts based on Al and Zr are in use.

Categories of active ingredients

The following Table present such a classification with respect to safety and
effectiveness:

Ingredient Formulation
Nonspray Spray
Aluminum chlorohydrate (25% or less) I III (s)
Aluminum chloride (15% or less, aqueous solution) I III (s)
Aluminum chloride (alcoholic solution) II (s) II (s)
Aluminum sulfate III (S,E) III (S,E)
Aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate (20% or less) I II (s)
Buffered aluminum sulfate (8%) + sodium aluminum I III (S)
lactate (8%)
Potassium aluminum sulfate III (S,E) III (S,E)
Sodium aluminum chlorhydroxy lactate III (S,E) III (S,E)

I = Permitted
II = Prohibited
III = Temporarily permitted

S = Due to safety considerations

E = Due to efficacy considerations

Efficiency of antiperspirants

Over the counter (OTC) antiperspirant preparations have the following sweat
reduction percentages:

Dosage form Average sweat reduction, %

Aerosols 14-20
Creams 35-47
Roll-ons 14-70
Lotions 28-62
Liquids 38-43
Sticks 35-40

Deodrant Ingredients and Formulations

Stick Deodrants
Deodrants contain an antiseptic bactericidal compound as the active ingredient. Most
preparations use trichlosan as it is active against both gram positive and gram negative

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bacteria. Most sntiseptics are active against either type but not both. However, a UK
patent used hexamethylene tetramine urinary antiseptic as the basic ingredient in their
stick deodorant:
1.
Ingredient Percentage
Hexamethylene tetramine 14-20
ZnO 16-23
Starch 16-23
Petroleum gelly 38-43
Perfume 0.1-1.2

It should be noted that I do not believe that this amount of antiseptic is realistic, in
fact it is unbelievably too much. See the formulations below and compare.

It should also be mentioned that Colgate-Palmolive simply used the available

domestic chemical, NaHCO3 as the basic ingredient in one of their formulations,
although details of other ingredients is not available. The slightly basic salt neutralizes
volatile odorous acid forming stable odorless salts.

2.
Ingredient Percentage
Sodium stearate 8
Ethyl alcohol 74
Propylene glycol 10
Isopropyl myristate 5
Trichlosan 0.2
Perfume 2

Two observations here:

• The amount of alcohol is unbelievably large for as stick dosage
• Perfume is also in large quantitiy

Procedure:
Slurry the soap in the cold with organic solvents, then heat to 70oC. Stirr the mass till
it becomes clear. Add fragrance and color desired 5-8oC above setpoint of the stick.

3.
A problem with alcoholic preparations is the shrinksge of the finished mass. The
following preparation excludes the alcohol:

Ingredient Percentage
Sodium stearate 8
Ethyl alcohol 74
Propylene glycol 10
Propylene glycol myristyl ester
Coconut diethanolamine 5
Trichlosan 0.2
Perfume 1

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Aerosol Deodrants

Ingredient Percentage
Ethyl alcohol (99%) 57
Propylene glycol 10
Propellant 12 (dichlorodifluoromethane) 40
Trichlosan 0.2
Perfume 0.5

Antiperspirant formulations

Aerosols
1.
Ingredient Percentage
Aluminum chlorohydrate 4.5
Isopropyl myristate 3.7
Fumed silica (suspending agent, prevent cake 0.15
formation)
Perfume 0.5
Propellant 11/12 (65:35) To 100
(Trichlorofluoromethane:dichlorodifluoromethane)

A problem with isopropyl myristate is a hydrophobic oily liquid that was observed to
stain cloth, therefore it was substituted with propylene glycol with some of the OH
groups butylated (UCON 50-HB-660), the resulting compound is non staining:
2.
Ingredient Percentage
Aluminum chlorohydrate 3.5
UCON 50-HB-660 4.77
Pluronic L64D (copolymer of ethylene 1.5
and propylene oxide)
Fumed silica (suspending agent, prevent 0. 5
cake formation)
Perfume 0.38
Propellant 11/12 (70:30) (Propellant 11 is To 100
trichlorofluoromethane)

Antiperspirant Sticks
1.
Ingredient Percentage Percentage
Form 1 Form 2
Aluminum chlorohydrate powder 20 20
Silicon oil 46 46
Stearyl alcohol 24 24
Polyethyleneglycol stearate 6000 6 6
Carbowax PEG 100 2 -
Carbowax PEG 1540 2 4
Perfume qs qs

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Procedure:
Heat carbowax and stearyl alcohol as well as polyethylene glycol stearate 6000
together at 80oC until melted. Add the aluminum chlorohydrate and mix. Cool to
70oC, then add the silicone oil. At about 40oC add the perfume. Make sure to pour the
mixture into the empty sticks 5-8oC above the settling temperature of the mixture.

Dry compressed antiperspirant stick

Ingredient Percentage
Aluminum chlorohydrate 19
Aluminum 52.35
chlorohydrate/microcrystalline cellulose
powder
Talc 14.3
Zinc stearate 1.9
Dry starch 7.3
Perfume 0.25
Silicone oil 4.8

Procedure:

Mix the powder ingredients in a blender, add the liquid phase and mix. Press the
resulting blend at 2000 psi in a rigid die.

Antiperspirant Cream

Ingredient Percentage
Isopropyl myristate 32
Bentone (thickening/suspending) 7
Ethyl alcohol 3
(50% solution) Zr 47
hydroxychloride/aluminum
chlorohydroxide/glycine complex
Perfume 1
Silicone oil 10

Roll-ons

Ingredient Percentage
Aluminum chlorohydrate (50% soln) 40
Glyceryl monostearate 8
Magnesium aluminum silicate 1
Deionized water 49
Perfume 0.25
Silicone oil 4.8

Procedure:

1. Add the Mg Al silicate to water slowly, stir and heat to 75oC

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 2. Heat the glyceryl monostearate to 75oC and add to (1).
3. Mix until temperature falls to 50oC.
4. Heat the Al chlorohydrate solution to 50oC and add to (3).
5. Mix till about 5-8oC above room temperature and add the silicone oil and
perfume
6. Continue stirring to room temperature and about 15 min more.

Aqueous alcoholic Roll-on

Ingredient Percentage
Deionized water 29
Propylene glycol 4
Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.4
Aluminum chlorohydrate (50% soln) 40
Ethyl alcohol 25
Nonyl phenol ethoxylate 1
Perfume 0.5

Procedure:

1. Heat water to 70oC.

2. Dispense the hydroxyethylcellulose in the propylene glycol and add to (1).
3. Mix well until cellulose derivative is fully hydrated.
4. Allow the temperature to reach 50oC while stirring.
5. Heat the Al chlorohydrate solution to 50oC and add to (4).
6. Mix till about 5-8oC above room temperature and add the alcohol, nonyl
phenol ethoxylate, and perfume.
7. Continue stirring to room temperature and about 15 min more.