Finally got mine in. CPU is amazing. With a slight undervolt (75mv) it runs locked at 4.

6GHz across all

cores. I need to figure out how to properly undervolt this GPU though. I'm a bit of a noob when it comes
to this curve thing. I figured undervolting would involve simply dragging the initial values up so that you
got a higher clock speed at a lower voltage, but that simply OCed the GPU lol. Went from 20k GPU score
to 22k in Firestrike. Anyone wanna give me some pointers on the best way to undervolt these things?
Would love to simply have access to the power limit slider, but I guess thats asking too much.

Yeah, thats with the 1080. I got the undervolt working. Got it stable at 1845mhz at 0.9v and that makes
it hit 80~. Havent played any extended games on it yet (gotta transfer my drives out of my other laptop).
So far pretty happy with this thing. Couldnt get Firestrike to run stable after undervolting (it crashed the
first time and I think I need to restart lol). But Timespy is working fine. Here is my final result.
https://www.3dmark.com/spy/2878089
Still need to fine tune the OC on both CPU and GPU, but I got a good foundation now.

In the P775 the 1080 can get pretty hot. That can be mitigated with an undervolt and OC though. Get
around stock desktop 1080 performance at around 82c.

You can use MSI Afterburner to undervolt. It's done through the clock speed/voltage graph.

Think than will undervolt it than. Helped my cpu with throttlestop and hope to also lower temps of my
gpu as its running quite hot. What ways to undervolt it?

You can manipulate the clock curve in MSI afterburner using ctrl + f, not sure if people have a better
method yet.

That seems to do a pretty good job for undervolting and unclocking. EVGA Precision XOC has the same
feature, with a little more flexibility. I find it easier to use than MSI Afterburner. It's not particularly
useful for overclocking and overvolting thanks to the crippled/locked-down nature of Pascal firmware.

Use throttlestop, enable speedshift, set min and max to 8 in the speedshift section of the TPL window.

Alternatively, you could set SST to 255, set min to 8 and max to 16, this should (maybe) make it run at
800 mhz at idle and 1600 mhz at full load. You will have to experiment with how that CPU interacts with
speedshift. I don't own a clevo so what I can tell you is ilmited.

-----

https://www.notebookcheck.net/ThrottleStop-Primer.213140.0.html

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/the-throttlestop-guide.531329/
Ok, I found the limit reasons in Throttle stop, and it seems I am throttling because of 'VR Current'. Any
ideas on how to fix that? It also flashes EDP Other as well.

What's you maximum current limit set to (ICC max)?

PL2 had to go to 130000-140000 for my CPU to hold 5Ghz.

I guess my next question would be what are you using to OC? I'm using throttlestop, and I dont see
either ICC max or PL2.

Intel XTU has these settings, throttlestop may have different names.

Ah, I have been avoiding XTU due to problems with resetting the CMOS in case things go bad. In XTU, its
set to auto, what should it be set to? By chance do you have an XTU profile?

I cannot stand to see anybody sad or freaking out. So, try this...

1. Connect AC adapter
2. With the laptop powered off, press and hold FN+D
3. While continuing to hold down FN+D, press the power button to turn it on
4. Continue holding FN+D for 30 seconds after the laptop power is on
5. Release FN+D and wait for at least 2 minutes
6. If the laptop reboots and gives you a blue box warning about the CMOS being
cleared or the CMOS battery being dead, say three Hail Mary and hit enter each
time.
7. Laptop should reboot and be back to BIOS defaults.

On a serious note, try an NVRAM reset:

To perform a soft NVRAM Reset without having to open the laptop and remove the CMOS battery:

Hold FN + D + Power button for 5 seconds, then keep the FN + D keys pressed and release the Power
key, after 30 seconds, you should see the NVRAM reset message on your screen.

If that does not work, take off the large bottom cover. There are two screws for the keyboard.
Both of the holes where those screws are should be marked with KB. Take the screws out. Use a
small screwdriver (smaller than the screws removed) and with the lid open press up on the screw
holes. This will lift up the keyboard. It has tabs that hold it, so do not get too rough. Get a finger
under the keyboard and slide your finger left and/or right to release the tabs along the top edge
closest to the screen, then slide the keyboard toward the screen to remove the tabs from the
chassis close to the touchpad. Be mindful of the ribbon cables so you don't accidentally break
them. Slide the keyboard toward the screen and you will see the coin cell (CMOS) battery.
Disconnect it for about 10 or 20 seconds with no AC power and the large system battery
removed. This will remove all power sources from the motherboard. After 10 to 20 seconds,
reconnect the CMOS battery and connect AC power. Turn the laptop on. At this point, steps 6
and 7 above should occur. If it does and the machine starts working right, then you can do your
happy dance.
What likely happened is you undervolted too much and there was not enough to power up the
CPU. Do that in smaller steps and it probably will not happen again.

My tweaks are:

1- Uninstallation of all the Windows Store Garbage Apps like 3D Paint, Print 3D, Alarms & Clock,
Feedback Hub, Maps, Groove Music, News, Weather, etc.
2- Removing all Windows 10 Privacy Invasion stuff like Telemetry, sending your keystrokes to Microsoft,
automatically installing suggested apps in the background, allowing Microsoft to conduct experiments
on your laptop, disabling automatic driver updates through Windows updates, disabling Windows 10
ads, disabling Cortana, Cloud Search etc.
3- Removal of nVIDIA and Intel Telemetry
4- Adjusting a lot of options in PC Settings like disabling Windows Tablet Mode (you have a laptop not a
tablet), disabling suggestions appearing in the start menu, disabling automatically connecting to Paid
WiFi Hotspots, disabling Game DVR which reduced performance in games, and a lot more.
5- Replacing Cortana with a much better search tool that finds results instantly called Everything which
finds any file you want as soon as you start typing even a few letters of its name and it doesn't even rely
on the Windows Indexing Service to do this!
6- Restoring the classic Windows Photo Viewer
7- Restoring the Classic Windows 7 Start Menu
8- Removal of the new and useless 3D Objects Folder that appears when you open "Computer"
9- Completely disabling Windows Defender from its roots (including all scheduled tasks and startup files)
for those who want to install their own AV. ESET NOD32 Antivirus is highly recommended if you want
the utmost security with the least system performance impact.