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insideVOGUE NOVEMBER 2015
Regulars
42 EDITOR’S LETTER
“Autumn’s free-thinking prints and
52 VOGUE NOTICES textures traverse uncharted territory”
Behind the scenes of the issue TUMBLE TOWN, PAGE 202
60 VOGUE.CO.UK
What’s online this month
181 CHECKLIST
The best of autumn’s fashion bounty
285 STOCKISTS
BACK PAGE MIND’S EYE
From concrete chairs to Japanese
ice cream… what’s inspiring
Sacai’s Chitose Abe?

In Vogue
75 WHAT’S NEW
The people, places, ideas and
trends to watch now
87 COVER STORY
30 NEW CODES OF COOL WHAT TO BUY NOW
Julia Hobbs rewrites fashion’s Page 117
statute book
95 FIRST PAST THE POST
For industry insiders, the Business
of Fashion is essential digital reading.
Carolyn Asome meets Imran Amed,
the man who makes it happen
103 MUMBAI’S THE WORD
Priya Kishore is the boutique owner
bringing the best of Bombay to
London. By Shruti Rya Ganguly
108 A LIFE IN FASHION SPY
Dutch model Saskia de Brauw on Page
163
art, travel and resisting pudding
Vogue Shops
117 COVER STORY
WHAT TO BUY NOW
COVER LOOK Outdoor wear so desirable,
you’ll be longing for winter

View Spy
Léa Seydoux wears 161 PACIFIC ARENA
135 CREATIVE REVIEW
tulle sheath dress, £2,750, Asian-inspired souvenir jackets
Dolce & Gabbana. On the eve of Frieze London,
Get the look: make-up Hannah Nathanson introduces 163 MONO MANIA
by Mac. Eyes: Liquid Eye Liner; the gallerists, artists, curators and Back to black (and white) –
Mineralize Eye Shadow Duo
in Spiced Metal. Lips: collectors to know now the new op-art accessories
Mineralize Rich Lipstick in
So Good. Face: Studio 147 MY FATHER’S VOICE 164 SOFTLY SOFTLY
Waterweight Foundation. A new documentary brings Marlon Slouchy ankle boots to covet
Hair by L’Oréal Professionnel: Brando to life, as his daughter reveals
Tecni Art Supreme Smooth 169 RETURN TO FEMININITY
Cream; Tecni Art Waves 150 REVERT TO TYPE Designers are revelling in
Fatales. Hair: Sam McKnight. New books for autumn. Chosen flounces, pleats and lace
Make-up: Val Garland.
Nails: Charlène Coquard. by Susie Rushton
176 BE INSPIRED
Set design: Jean Michel Bertin. Production: Brachfeld
Paris. Digital artwork: D Touch. Fashion editor: 155 LATIN LOVER Page 188’s fashion shoot
Kate Phelan. Photographer: Craig McDean Sarah Harris is seduced by Argentina deserves an encore >36

29
© 2015 CHLOE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

152–153 SLOANE STREET


LONDON SWIX 9BX
chloe.com
insideVOGUE

Features
214 COVER STORY
THE SPY WHO LOVED ME
Léa Seydoux tells Giles Coren
why she’s no ordinary Bond girl.
Photographed by Craig McDean
226 COVER STORY
INTO THE WOODS
It’s all change for Liv Tyler,
discovers Sarah Harris.
Photographed by Venetia Scott
234 MURDER, SHE SPOKE
Sarah Koenig’s Serial podcast gripped
millions of listeners. Tom Shone
investigates her next project.
Photographs by Joss McKinley
238 COVER STORY
THE LEGACY
Karl Lagerfeld, creative director of
Chanel, talks to Alexandra Shulman
about cats, couture and keeping “Clothes that move
up appearances in tune with the
body are the most
244 CABIN FEVER liberating of all…”
How Vogue stylist Clare Richardson
transformed a mountain shack into ENSEMBLE PIECES,
PAGE 188
a stunning retreat. By Marisa Meltzer.
Photographs by Peter Ash Lee
252 COVER STORY
PRESS PLAY
Katharine Viner, the first woman
editor of the Guardian, sets out her
vision for the future of journalism. By CABIN FEVER
Emily Sheffield. Portrait by Jason Bell Page 244
Beauty
256 REFLECTED GLORY 265 SOUND BITES
Christa D’Souza goes through Dental care just got sexy, says
the looking glass – while Vogue Christa D’Souza
reflects on past issues
273 COVER STORY
Fashion ULTIMATE BEAUTY HACKS
Vogue’s definitive beauty crib sheet
188 ENSEMBLE PIECES
279 UPSCALE NAILS
The season’s fluid lines will have
The hazy shades of winter
you dancing for joy. Photographed
by Patrick Demarchelier 280 OIL REFINEMENT
Striking innovations for hair and skin
202 TUMBLE TOWN
It’s time for a bold move: fall for 282 THE CABINET OF CURIOSITIES
groundbreaking patterns and textures. Inside London’s most
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Editor’s letter Léa Seydoux
channels
espionage
chic for Craig
McDean,
page 214.
Far left:
the editor’s
well-thumbed
Ian Fleming
paperbacks

Premium
BOND
f
rom the age of 12, I spent my
school holidays in a beautiful
house deep in the Herefordshire
countryside where the wooden-
panelled sitting room was lined entirely
in books. Years back, the Edwardian
writer MR James had written several
of his famous ghost stories in the
house, and on the bookshelves there
were first editions of these volumes.
But alongside them – and much more
intriguing to me – was the whole
collection of Ian Fleming’s James
Bond novels in paperback.
I read them all, one after the other;
Casino Royale, From Russia with Love,
Dr No, Goldfinger, Thunderball –
the list goes on – and I adored the
chauvinistic, suave Bond, the inventive
and evil villains, and the descriptions of
the unutterably glamorous and usually
doomed girls who came Bond’s way. I
don’t know what it says about me that no doubt set to be yet another brilliant
it never entered my head that Bond’s box-office success. Seydoux is an actress
behaviour was sexist (well, it was the who gave one of the most compelling
early Seventies and we looked at the performances I have ever seen in
world differently then) or that most Blue Is the Warmest Colour, and I’m
of Fleming’s fictional women could looking forward to seeing her in
be regarded as victims in some form such an opposing role as a Bond
or other. It was all utterly captivating girl. Surprisingly to me, Giles
to me then and still, all these years approached the interview and
COLLECTION; REX FEATURES

later, Bond continues to enthral. concept of the traditional Bond girl


DANJAQ/EON/UA; KOBAL

For this issue we sent Giles Coren to with a much more feminist stance Bond beauties – above,
interview our cover star Léa Seydoux than I had ever expected of this most Ursula Andress in
CRAIG McDEAN;

Dr No (1962). Left,
(page 214), who plays Bond’s latest blokeish of writers. Yet more evidence Claudine Auger in
temptress in the upcoming film Spectre, that, indeed, the times are a-changin’. > Thunderball (1965)

42
EDITOR’S letter Vogue looks
into the mirror,
page 256

The Guardian’s
editor-in-chief,
Katharine Viner,
profiled on page 252

JASON BELL; HARLEY WEIR; JAI ODELL


Great stories are a theme in this issue, you, the Vogue readers, consistently
as we also feature two women who are confirms that while you enjoy our
changing the face of how narrative is website and our digital apps, neither
presented today. Sarah Koenig (page replace the print magazine, which you
234) is the host of the podcast Serial, enjoy for its physical presence and often
which has evoked the same passionate keep for months, if not years.
following from tens of millions across Most of us have a complicated
“What To Buy
the world as any of television’s recent relationship with the mirror. At one Now”, page
wildly popular box sets. To capture an level it is a basic instinct to want to see 117, welcomes
audience through an aural experience how we look – not in a vain way but autumn and
the return of
in our incredibly visual culture is a almost as a confirmation that we exist. cosy layers
fascinating achievement – one which It’s hard to imagine a world where we
I am sure she will duplicate in her next- couldn’t see our reflection – what would
season story, about to be unveiled. that mean for the way we present
Another woman in charge of ourselves? However, who hasn’t been
contemporary narrative is Katharine pulled up short by catching sight of
Viner, who has become editor-in-chief themselves looking a great deal worse
at the Guardian, having been a staffer than they imagined they did, or
for many years. She once compared the occasionally indulged in a moment of
compilation of digital news – for which self-congratulation when the whole
she is a passionate cheerleader – to the “look” seems to be working? We sent
old traditions of storytelling in the way Christa D’Souza off into the cutting-
that it enables a large number of people edge world of mirrors – if you can
to add their own voices and perspectives imagine what that might be – and her
to stories, giving them a different shape discoveries (“Reflected Glory”, page
to conventional print. Emily Sheffield 256) were a great excuse to plunder
interviews Viner (page 252) as she Vogue’s memory lane of reflections.
takes control of the Guardian, and finds Finally, as summer has fully
a woman filled with the energy and retreated into the past, it’s time to
excitement of someone who has embrace the pleasure of warm and
achieved a long-held ambition. cosy clothes to bundle into for autumn
Viner’s enthusiasm for free news and walks and wintry breaks. Our “What
comment may be tested in the current To Buy Now” story (page 117), styled
landscape, where newspaper print by senior fashion assistant Lucy
circulations are declining and digital Bower, features some great outdoors
revenues are still failing to fill the pieces that won’t break the budget and
financial gap left by this erosion. makes the prospect of cold weather
Interestingly, any research we do among a little more appealing.

44
VOGUEnotices ALL ABOUT THIS MONTH’S ISSUE

STUDIO SESSIONS
After more than 500 issues with Vogue,
photographer Sudhir “Sid” Pithwa says goodbye to
Condé Nast this month. Starting in the darkroom under
David Bailey, he went on to run the Condé Nast Studio.
A favourite Vogue memory? Assisting Patrick Demarchelier
on a shoot at Highgrove with Diana, Princess of Wales.

Pod people
Serial addicts (“Murder She Spoke”,
page 234) can get a podcast fix
ahead of season two with these
thrilling iTunes downloads
WELCOME TO NIGHT VALE
Tune in for surreal news and
weather from a fictional town in
the southwestern United States. CLUED IN
New York-based photographer
YOU MUST REMEMBER THIS Joss McKinley, above, drove
Relive Hollywood’s greatest to the Hamptons for our shoot
scandals, from the mysterious deaths with Serial writer Sarah Koenig
of Bruce Lee and his son to Howard (page 234). He counts Serial’s
Hughes’s many affairs. parent show, This American
Life, and Tom Waits as road-trip
CRIMINAL
essentials. See more of his
Play detective with cases ranging from
nuanced photographs on
the murder of an American Civil War
Instagram (@jossmckinley), or
veteran to tourists pocketing fossils in
at the National Portrait Gallery.
Arizona’s Petrified Forest.

SUDHIR PITHWA; JAMES COCHRANE; PHILIPPA LANGLEY. BALLOON SCARF STYLED BY YOLANDE GAGNIER

BALLOON SCARF,
BY JOSS McKINLEY

EAGERLY BOND
Times restaurant critic Giles Coren lived out a 007 fantasy when he met up
with cover star Léa Seydoux (page 214). Despite a tongue-in-cheek stance
on Ian Fleming’s classics, he still feels the quintessential womaniser’s allure.
“I cannot escape the first Bond film I saw in the cinema, The Spy Who Loved
Me. That is the Bond film of my soul, and Roger Moore – unquestionably the
hammiest, silliest, most awful Bond – is my Bond.” His favourite Bond girl?
“I never quite got over the scene in Live and Let Die when Roger Moore
unzipped Madeline Smith with his magnetic watch. Or possibly Maryam
d’Abo, whose appearance in Playboy caused me to buy my first girlie mag.”

52
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IN THE NEWS

VIEW TO A THRILL Dream team


There are few
more glamorous
Olivier Rousteing’s H&M
roles on film
than that of a x Balmain collection lands in
Bond girl, and in stores on November 5. Mark the
Spectre, released date in your diary and plan your
on October 26, hit list with our guide to the
our cover star year’s most anticipated
Léa Seydoux high-street collaboration.
joins the long list Vogue.co.uk/news
of beauties who
have bewitched
007. Who better
than Seydoux ON BEAUTY
to teach us how Burberry You are invited
Prorsum, to enrol in the
to be a Bond girl, a/w ’15
in the latest of Vogue Beauty
our series of School – our
“How To” Vogue series of Vogue
Video films? Video films
Vogue.co.uk/ teaches you
voguevideo everything you
need to know,
from the key
to effective
TRENDS cleansing to how
Spring forward to apply primer.
You may think you
have mastered
The carousel of international fashion these skills but be
weeks ends in Paris on Wednesday prepared for our
experts’ insider
October 7, concluding a month of shows
tips and tricks to
that will dictate what we’ll be wearing revolutionise your
come spring 2016. Stay one sartorial daily regime.
step ahead with our cheat sheet to the Vogue.co.uk/
Britt Ekland and season and discover the trends that will voguevideo
TIM WALKER; SARAH MAINGOT; JASON LLOYD-EVANS;

Roger Moore in matter. It’ll be live online as soon as the


The Man with the
Golden Gun (1974) last model disappears from the catwalk.
MITCHELL SAMS; THE KOBAL COLLECTION

Vogue.co.uk/fashion/trends

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Facebook, Twitter, Tumblr, Google+ and Youtube. Just search for BRITISH VOGUE and MISS VOGUE and join the club.

60
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November 23, 2015 London LISA ARMSTRONG, CALGARY AVANSINO, LAURA BAILEY,
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inVOGUE

CHRISTOPHER KANE
SKIRTING THE ISSUE
What’s p resenting the most desirable skirt shape of the season.
A long-time favourite of sophisticates, the full skirt

NEW
THE PEOPLE, PLACES, IDEAS
looks fabulous on, accentuating and neatening the waist.
Choose a fluid shape (try Loewe) to minimise the retro factor
and up the sex appeal, and ensure it’s mid-calf length, so as to
show ankle. (It’s not only the skirt’s characteristic swish, swing
and sway that gives it such a sense of freedom, it’s the lack of
& TRENDS TO WATCH NOW time spent yanking at the hemline that cuts us so fabulously
loose.) For a while now – four seasons at least – fashion’s style
chameleons have been captivated by androgyny, so the feminine Full on:
Edited by LAURA WEIR as seen
thrill of a full skirt feels delightfully rebellious. Last but not at Paris
least, it’s forgiving – what other skirt looks as good with a Fashion
Week,
leather biker jacket as it does with a strappy top or chambray top centre
shirt? It’s never felt so daring to embrace ladylike dressing. LW and above
REGAN CAMERON; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; MITCHELL SAMS; REX FEATURES

Up sticks
It’s been a while since
we lit a joss stick
without flicking an
ironic peace sign
– until now. The
scented-candle
scene has reached
saturation point –
cue the revival of
incense sticks, albeit
in chicer form. JH
NEAL’S YARD REMEDIES TIBETAN INCENSE, £3.50

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inVOGUE

TOP PICKS
When it comes to
awe-inspiring,
arid scenery the
chic set are
switching Arizona
and the Atacama
for little-known
lunar landscapes
closer to home.
TURKEY’s
ANATOLIA region
conceals
otherworldly
cave dwellings
(we love the
Museum Hotel
in Cappadocia),
NORTH
LANZAROTE
Just
boasts spaghetti-
western-style
vistas, while
SPAIN has the
DESERTS
Craving a desert fix? These
sunbaked (and
secret) BARDENAS mystical destinations are nearer
REALES NATIONAL than you might imagine…
PARK. Stay at the
calming Hotel
Aire de
Bardenas. JH
NORMAN PARKINSON/COURTESY NORMAN
PARKINSON ARCHIVE; ISTOCK; CORBIS

Cactus vs BONSAI
Whether your cactus is flowering on your
mid-century-modern desk or you’re busy cultivating your
Above: the eerie landscape of Anatolia is the
setting for Cappadocia’s Museum hotel, left. bonsai tree, two very different flora for two very different
Top left: Hotel Aire de Bardenas in Spain personality types are trending now. Which one are you? LW

77
inVOGUE

THE RED CHANNEL

SOUL
N s Hanni El Khatib s
LEMO

THE
PRODUCERS
Still crushing on the star? Doh, the
real heartthrobs are the camera-
shy brains behind the talent. You
already know Mark Ronson and
Calvin Harris – now follow the new
wave of beat-makers. Glamorous
LA dance music duo Penthouse
Penthouse, Californian garage
rocker Hanni El Khatib, and
next-generation hip-hop producer
Fwdslxsh (pronounced forward
slash) of London art collective Last
Night in Paris are the names to
know now. They also happen to be
very easy on the eye. JH
GREEN PARTY

s Fwdslxsh s
JASON LLOYD-EVANS; MITCHELL SAMS; LILLIE ROSEMARY WOJCIK; RETINA
ES
OT

N
B LU E

Rainbow division
Red and yellow and pink and green, purple and orange and blue…
The autumn/winter 2015 outerwear parade in myriad shades
s Penthouse Penthouse s
painted a bright and beautiful picture this season. LW
78
inVOGUE ANNDRA NEEN
GOLD-PLATED
CHOKER, £295, AT
VALERYDEMURE.COM

COPERNI LEATHER AND STEEL


COURTS, FROM £1,080, AT COLETTE.FR

Modernism
IN MOTION
Experience American artist Alexander Calder’s cosmic
sculptures at Tate Modern’s retrospective (November
11 to April 3) and sync your wardrobe accordingly with
architectural jewellery and splashes of joyful colour.
Just ask Nicolas Ghesquière, Sam Taylor-Johnson
and Julia Restoin Roitfeld – spotted admiring
Calder’s modernist masterpiece poolside
en vacances at La Colombe d’Or. JH
Left: White Panel (1936)

BARBARA CASASOLA
JW ANDERSON
LEATHER BAG, £865

ALYSSA NORTON
HAND-PAINTED
BRASS CUFF, £265, AT
VALERYDEMURE.COM

URIBE JASPER RING,


£100, AT MOREISLOVE.COM

LOOP
THE
CELINE
LOOP
It’s time to snuggle
into the chunkiest
of jumbled knits
MARC BY MARC JACOBS

– we love the
loose, artisanal
style of Paris
Essex, the
CHANEL

knitwear label
CALDER FOUNDATION/ART RESOURCE/DACS; SUDHIR

founded by
PITHWA; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; MITCHELL SAMS

textile designer
Tiphaine de Hands free
Lussy, and Lighten your load – the reign of the heavily
Chloé’s chunky laden super-tote is over. Fendi’s belt purse
loops of (a chic take on the bum bag) and Céline’s
meandering utility pouch will accommodate a smartphone,
CHLOE
yarn. LW HAND-KNITTED house keys and the odd make-up essential
SWEATER, £995 – anything else is superfluous. JH
FENDI LEATHER BAG, £630. BELT, £190
80
R EGE N T ST R E ET SL OA N E S QUA R E

BROM P TON CROS S M A RY L E B ON E H IGH ST R E ET


inVOGUE

30
NEW CODES OF
COOL
5. Hawaii
TAKE UP ASTRONOMY, DISCOVER Hawaii has trumped
HAWAII AND HEAD BACK TO St Barths as the A-list’s
THE PUB, ADVISES JULIA HOBBS winter-sun destination. If you’re
not already heading to a beach
party on the North Shore for
1. Grow out the New Year’s Eve, hurry
mullet: a shoulder-
sweeping chop and 6. PASS
inch-short fringe ON A MATT BURBERRY
is the calling card COMPLEXION: FRESH GLOW
of the season. See FOUNDATION,
A HIGH-SHINE £34
hairstylist George POST-WORKOUT
Northwood SHEEN IS THE
for model Kiki MUST-HAVE
Willems’s style. MODERN
(Millennial blonde OPTION
streaks optional)

2. SAVE THE

7
Provoke
ABSTRUSE instant envy
DIETARY with Louis
REQUIREMENTS Vuitton’s
FOR MORNING Eldorado hi-tops
VISITS TO THE – the perfect pit-
JUICE WELL, stop purchase
W1. AFTER 6PM, at Terminal 5,
THEY’RE JUST en route to Art
NOT SEXY Basel Miami
Beach
xHAPPN x
3. Turn on the Happn dating app,
on the Royal Scotsman sleeper, say,
and see what happens…
ILLUSTRATION: GATTO BRAVO. JOSH OLINS; NATALIE DAVID; GETTY

4. Master a meta look


French label Vetements turns
fashion clichés into self-referential
style hits. Those in the know can
spot the surrealist proportions of 8. SWAP THE CROWDS AT FRIEZE LONDON
FOR THE OXFORDSHIRE COUNTRYSIDE:
the label’s trench coat, Motocross THE HOTTEST ART FIX THIS AUTUMN IS
jacket or military bomber from afar CONCEPTUAL ARTIST LAWRENCE WEINER’S
TAKEOVER OF BLENHEIM PALACE

87
inVOGUE
30
NEW CODES OF
COOL
NINE ONE SEVEN
COTTON T-SHIRT,
£30, AT DOVER
10. Like-minded
STREET MARKET Rapper Kari Faux could be on to
something with her track “On the Internet",
which pans fame that hinges upon online
9. Leave the "likes". Leave Instagram. We dare you
friend request
hanging and 11. EARLY MEETING?
POWER-PLAYING
advocate retro ENTREPRENEURS
dating moves APPLY VALMONT’S
instead. The PRIME RENEWING
“call me” T-shirt PACK, £130
by skateboarder 12. ACCESSORISE LIKE IT’S
Alex Olson’s cult 2001. A DIAMANTE CHOKER,
label Nine One WORN WITH A SILKEN SLIP
Seven should DRESS, CARRIES INSTANT
do the trick DEVIL-MAY-CARE GLAM

14. SMART GIRL


RACERS DRIVE
THE ALL-ELECTRIC
RENAULT ZOE, AND
13 Meet you at the hotel bar?
Not this time. Go off-piste
and venture back to the pub

BAG THE PRIME 15. Break away


CHARGING BAYS IN
W1 AND E8 from the cult of
skinny. The woman
who plumps for a
generous cleavage
goes intriguingly
against the grain

17. Wrap the


dinner-party talk of a
London/LA migration.
By all means adopt
the Californian
fondness for intimate
house parties and
16. TAKE A RAINCHECK ON sceney spinning gyms,
ILLUSTRATION: GATTO BRAVO. MARIO TESTINO; ALASDAIR McLELLAN; JODY TODD

THE GIRLS-ONLY YOGA BREAK. and secretly book a


NOW IT’S ALL ABOUT AN ICE- Skype session with
SKATING WEEKEND AT THE SOHO the starlets’ favourite
FARMHOUSE IN OXFORDSHIRE spiritualist Angie
Banicki – but then the
conversation needs
to move on

18. Dare to…


…wear Chloé’s decadent zCANCELLED z
smoking-lounge trousers with 19. CHECK YOUR VOCABUL ARY.
just an Erès bra to Local, IF THE FASHION TREND/CL UB/BOYF RIEND
IS OVER, IT'S “CANCELL ED”
Brixton’s high-jinks dance party
88
inVOGUE
w
Yo
r k has S
helter Island
, Lo
nd
o 30
nh
Ne

NEW CODES OF

as
. If

Cam
z z z 20

COOL

ber Sands.
SAP

Stak
21. Add a rock-star edge
A

e to your office attire. Optician


ge

ou
a

David Clulow will transform


t
t

yo ot
ur yc
woo
d-panelled holi da your summer shades with
tinted prescription lenses
22. Don’t deliberate on
a purchase. Download
Quiqup and have
that Céline pompom 23. JOIN DURO OLOWU’S
scarf delivered to CLUB. THE LONDON
your desk in time for DESIGNER FORGOES A LARGE-
SCALE CATWALK SHOW FOR
cocktail hour A SALON GATHERING AT
A PAL’S HOUSE. ONLY THE
24. Starry COOLEST QUALIFY
26. Needle time
nights 25. Take SECURE A SESSION WITH EAST LONDON ACUPUNCTURIST
a styling ALEJANDRO QUILOGRAN FOR A VISIBLE VITALITY BOOST.
TAKE A NEW APPROACH TO
cue from HIS FACE TREATMENTS ARE A MODEL SECRET
MEDITATIVE THINKING. JOIN THE
Christophe
FLAMSTEED ASTRONOMY SOCIETY
Lemaire
FOR AFTER-DARK OBSERVING
and clash
NIGHTS AND LET YOUR MIND DRIFT
your white
OFF INTO THE ETHER
winter coat TIFFANY
DIAMOND
with slouchy EARRINGS,

27 scarlet pixie £950


boots

Give a new meaning to


rush hour: there’s something

PATRICK DEMARCHELIER; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; MITCHELL SAMS; GETTY


indisputably romantic about
taking the Tube in a dazzling

ILLUSTRATION: GATTO BRAVO. ROBIN DERRICK; CORINNE DAY;


evening gown long after the 29. Teeming ear decorations
city has closed its doors aren't going anywhere. When in
New York, Vogue fashion editors
seek out celebrity piercer Maria
28. CHANNEL
Tash; back home they go to
THE BRIT SPIRIT
Karolina Lach at the Love Hate
– CORNISH
Social Club in west London
POTATO VODKA
AVAL DOR
TASTES AS
LUXURIOUSLY 30. MATCH YOUR PLAYLIST
CLEAN TO YOUR CHRISTOPHER KANE
AS SAKE POWER DRESS WITH A DASH
OF EIGHTIES FUNK
“She Can’t Love You” – Chemise
“I’ll Be Good” – René & Angela
“I Need You Now” – Sinnamon
“This Beat Is Mine” – Vicky D
“I Want You (All Tonight)” –
Curtis Hairston

90
TRACY K.SMITH
PULITZER PRIZE WINNER
W E A R I N G T H E I C O N I C G A N T S H I R T,
L AUNCHED AT EAST COAST
U N I V E R S I T I E S I N 1 9 4 9.

S H O P T H E C O L L E C T I O N A T G A N T. C O M
“It’s global,
inVOGUE
academic,
an outsider’s
perspective…”
Imran Amed, make up his 25-strong team. “This,”
founder and says Amed, “is important, because this
editor-in-chief cultural hotchpotch reflects exactly the
of The Business
of Fashion sort of approach that BoF takes: global,
academic, an outsider’s perspective.”
But what is BoF? Company CEOs,
designers, style journalists, investors
and anyone with an interest in the
fashion world will tell you that it
is essential 6am reading. Viewers
awake each morning to a daily digest
(access to all content is free) of stories
aggregated from publications around
the world as well as its own articles.
“It’s the first thing I read every day
in bed before I even see my children,
I’m ashamed to admit,” says Anya
Hindmarch, while Tory Burch reads it
before she gets to the papers.
“In a crowded media landscape,
what other media brand gets to spend
five minutes with their consumers
every morning?” asks Amed proudly.
Surely it explains the 500,000 unique
visitors each month and a site that
is increasingly scooping traditional
fashion press. The recent star hires of
fashion critic Tim Blanks and Andrew
Barker, the Evening Standard’s former
magazine editor, have also raised
eyebrows at BoF’s intentions.
The business started on Amed’s sofa
in Notting Hill, as a fashion blog
that dissected and critiqued players in
the industry. In 10 years (although it
feels much faster) it has grown into a
global media company that interprets
fashion for the business-minded and
business for the fashion-minded. It’s
some way from his days as an ambitious
23-year-old management consultant
working in the strategy consulting
division of Deloitte in Montreal, who

First t he white, bright space on the


top floor of a building just north
of Oxford Circus resembles
the sort of office you might imagine
made a case for coming to London.
Did he ever imagine it would be quite
this successful? “No, because when I
started, there wasn’t a company that

past the in a creative-visualisation technique:


spacious rooms filled with stylish,
purposeful-looking men and women
was an internet/media/technology/
fashion business. That wasn’t
conceivable 10 years ago. BoF is the

POST
sitting around pristine work surfaces. I product not just of my work but also
hazard a guess that a “no eating at your the result of a changed landscape.”
desk” policy is observed but I don’t get Several investors approached Amed at
round to asking because Imran Amed the end of 2011, and so the following
HOW A MANAGEMENT CONSULTANT is in full flight. The slightly built March, he wrote a business plan that
FROM CALGARY BECAME ONE OF Canadian-born founder and editor- he took to investors four months later.
THE MOST INFLUENTIAL PEOPLE IN in-chief of The Business of Fashion It wasn’t until February 2013, when
FASHION. BY CAROLYN ASOME (BoF), dressed in a Tomorrowland Amed stopped doing his other
shirt and Robert Geller trousers, is consultancy work, raised £1.35 million
taking me on a tour of the six-week- in seed capital (investors included
old surrounds of his fledgling empire. LVMH, Index Capital and Net-a-
JO METSON SCOTT

Actually, it’s as much to survey the Porter’s investor, Carmen Busquets)


Dinesen-style floorboards as it is to and hired a team, that it started
introduce me to the 17 nationalities that operating at full throttle. “We have a >

95
inVOGUE
large group of more than 15 investors suffering from chest pains. He took a efficient supply chains. “Imran was
and I wanted to take a little bit of sabbatical, checking into a retreat where the first person who I sat down with
money from a lot of people so that no he practised Vipassana meditation and who really challenged my ideas on
single investor had too much power or didn’t speak to anyone for 10 days. how to stimulate growth and structure
control.” He also selected investors who I ask him about a curious encounter my business,” recalls fashion designer
would be well placed to share their he had, which was described in the Mary Katrantzou.
knowledge or experience. Busquets New York Times. During a four-hour The site is gradually beginning to
recalls, “What really sparked my stopover in New Delhi more than a monetise itself, working with sponsors
interest in Amed was that he reminded decade ago – when he was at his lowest such as River Island and Swarovski on
me of Natalie Massenet. He had a ebb at McKinsey and unsure which multi-channel partnerships. Amed also
vision and a focus that was palpable.” path to take – Amed was approached by charges substantial subscription fees to
Last year it launched a subscription- a seer at the airport. The seer wrote the 150-and-counting companies who
based global job shop, The Business something down on a piece of paper have signed up for premium company
of Fashion Careers, where fashion and then asked him pages on BoF Careers. In the next five
brands can recruit staff from “The fashion world to name a colour years, Court anticipates BoF will exert
around the world. Within a week of
launching, 150 fashion companies had been slow to and a flower, and
to choose a number
more influence and attract even more
users and that the site will in time
from 15 countries wanted to join the embrace technology between one and become the de facto digital resource
BoF career community. This August,
BoF has instigated a very useful
– you can’t download five. Amed answered
“blue, lily, three,”
for fashion professionals.
Does this dizzying pace ever feel
research tool for fashion students: a a Chanel bag” and it was exactly overwhelming? Last year Amed
global ranking of fashion schools. the same thing that travelled to 25 countries and spent
this airport seer had written down. 150 days away from his Notting Hill

b
ut what marks BoF out over “That was his way of getting me to home. Admittedly he says much of his
other sites? Why has it risen to listen to him, because I was thinking he enjoyment comes from all the travelling
become such a success story in must be trying to sell me something. he does; it’s his way of unwinding –
such a short time? Frédéric Court, That day he gave me all sorts of advice. “I love nothing better than immersing
founder of Felix Capital, one of the Some of it was a bit random, such as myself in different street cultures;
site’s investors, believes that it’s don’t cut your nails on whatever day of exploring all those neighbourhoods in
because Amed has built a brand with the week – I don’t recall – but the other Tokyo was quite amazing or visiting
very strong authority and global thing he said I must do was meditate. Morocco to see an Inditex factory” –
recognition. “He built it from scratch And it’s funny because meditation is but he recognises the importance of
with no funding… that’s hard enough very much a part of my culture: my looking after himself. He tries to be in
to do, even with lots of money.” grandfather used to get up and do it bed by 10pm, meditates when he wakes
“I think people come to us for our every day at 4am. It’s something I grew at 6am and makes time to exercise
opinion and evaluation: it’s news up with but had never really managed (yoga or the gym four times a week).
reporting but placing fashion in a to do because my head was filled with There’s also an Indian woman who
wider context, such as the Grexit,” so much noise. A whole series of events comes to his house to cook a month’s
offers Amed. “We take in a broader pushed me towards meditation and worth of Indian food that he freezes.
geopolitical, technological context.” now it’s become such an integral part And he takes comfort from a diverse
Others believe that he has cleverly of the way I manage myself. It’s a tool mix of friends: some who go back to
exploited a huge gap in the market. for me; when you’re an entrepreneur his childhood in Calgary, “but there is
Whereas WWD is the dominant and you’re pulled in every direction, it also the McGill ghetto,” he laughs,
name in fashion news but focuses on is wonderful to have this discipline.” “which I joke has been transplanted
the American market, BoF takes a At first, his parents, an architect from Montreal to Notting Hill.” Does
global perspective. father and teacher mother, east Africans he hang out with fashion folk much?
His timing was impeccable. “I was of Indian descent, were confused by his “Well, of course I’ve made friends in the
lucky. I started when the iPhone and decision to leave McKinsey. “I wasn’t industry,” he says diplomatically, “but
social media exploded on to the scene; obsessed by fashion growing up in I do like to be private, my life is not all
the Bric countries were emerging and Calgary, I wasn’t reading magazines over Instagram. I like that separation.”
the financial crisis threw the industry when I was six years old.” He’d observed Given that he spent 90 minutes
into a tailspin. BoF was asking the from his father that architecture was dipping into Google Analytics and
right questions and provoking the a career that required left brain/ showing me whizzy graphics that
right conversations. In many ways, right brain thinking. “You have to simplify the idea of supply chains, you
the fashion world had been very slow to understand aesthetics and design but assume he might suffer from FOGO
embrace technology, but perhaps it’s a you also need to understand structure (fear of going offline) but he assures
bit different because it’s such a physical and organisation.” It’s a philosophy me that he looks forward to an annual
product – you can’t download a Chanel that is the core of everything BoF does. digital detox. “The first few days I’m
bag. Although now technology is Amed realised he wanted to apply a bit twitchy but then I feel more
beginning to be part of the product.” this way of thinking to the fashion creatively fulfilled.” In any case, he tells
He admits to being a “typical industry. Looking around, he was me, he loves to sleep. No problems in
overachieving kid”: commerce at staggered by the number of designers drifting off then, and dreaming how
McGill, Harvard Business School, the who had weighty press portfolios but the geeks shall inherit the earth. Q
fast track at McKinsey until he hit 29 no idea how to run a business and Carolyn Asome is deputy fashion editor of
and realised he wasn’t happy and was didn’t understand the concept of “The Times”

96
©2015 COACH®
CHLOË GRACE MORETZ / Actress
Coach Swagger 27 in metallic blue

coach.com
inVOGUE

Mumbai’s Priya, wearing


clothes from her
store, in front

THE WORD
of the Taj Mahal
Palace hotel

BOUTIQUE OWNER PRIYA KISHORE IS BRINGING THE


BEST OF BOMBAY TO LONDON. BY SHRUTI RYA GANGULY
PRIYA WEARS CLOTHES FROM BOMBAY ELECTRIC. NINETEENTH-CENTURY

l
ocated along winding narrow lanes colour, pattern and playful detailing
ANUSHKA MENON. HAIR AND MAKE-UP: MARIANNA MUKUCHYAN.

filled with fruit sellers, right next that makes her stand out whether
to the famous Taj Mahal Palace she’s walking through the small towns
GUJARATI FABRIC AT THE VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM

hotel and the Gateway of India on in Gujarat to hunt for antiques in


Left: the “bangle
Mumbai’s southern tip, is Bombay forgotten bazaars or attending some bar”. Above:
Electric, one of India’s most inventive of Mumbai’s most prestigious events. Dreams of
retail emporiums. The boutique, Priya took the scenic route to India (Collins),
at Bombay
founded by London-born Priya fashion, via a degree in politics, electric.in
Kishore, boasts an eclectic mix that philosophy and economics from
MANISH ARORA FOR
follows Priya’s style mantra of harmony Oxford and a master’s in anthropology AMRAPALI ENAMEL
BROOCH, £150, AT
through contrast. When it comes to from the University of Chicago. BOMBAYELECTRIC.IN
her own style, Priya shows a flair for As a parliamentary speechwriter
and a future forecaster at the
advertising agency DDB London,
she was armed with a dynamic
and unique perspective.
Since its inception, Bombay
Electric has become a platform and
beacon for a new era of Indian style
and design. To celebrate its 10th
anniversary, the boutique is staging
a 10-week residency at Selfridges in
London. “We’ll be channelling the
energy of Mumbai to London,” says
Priya. The pop-up, which opens this
month, is reimagined by set designer
Gary Card, and will boast the best >
Bombay Electric. Far
right: the shop’s exterior
103
inVOGUE Inside the
Royal
of India’s breakthrough designers (find silk raglan Bombay
Yacht Club #3 HOTELS
tees, bomber jackets, embroidered sweatshirts, sequin
basketball jerseys and cashmere scarves), vintage s I love the Yacht
Club for the
collectables and Indian jewellery from fine to architecture and
costume; there’s even a “bangle bar”. “We’ve created a the ambience.
space with surprises where you can linger and Masala dosas and
explore,” she says. idlis at the Trident
The residency coincides with the Victoria & Albert are a favourite
Museum’s India Festival, where one of the headlining start to the day,
shows will be The Fabric of India, exploring the especially coupled
subcontinent’s rich history of textiles. Of course, with the view from
Indian fabric is most famously used in the sari, and the club lounge.
Bombay Electric at Selfridges will host the Sari s I always send
friends to the
Project, where five British designers, including
Taj Mahal Palace
Roksanda Ilincic, Mary Katrantzou and Nicholas Hotel or Abode.
Kirkwood, will each craft custom designs. There is nothing
When asked about the next decade and beyond, like the Taj pool
Priya smiles. “I just go with my instinct.” Q and the marigold
garlands upon
arrival. Abode
Priya’s Mumbai offers a boutique
What to do, see and eat in this experience.
The Sea Green
unique waterfront city has great views
and timewarp
#1 EXPERIENCES interiors for those
s The sea! In the winter the sky is bright blue and on a budget.
the sea is calm and turquoise, but during the monsoon
the sea turns deep grey and stormy, with waves the Meditating
height of a two-storey building. #2 ARCHITECTURAL It’s a metaphor for among the
DETAILS the persistence and city rooftops
s Kohli fishing boats and sailing in the harbour.
I often go sailing as the sun rises. Being with s Art deco detailing, fertility of Mumbai.
whether on iron The sea air decays
the elements without a motor, relying on the
grilles, a hexagonal everything eventually
wind and dodging giant cargo ships puts lift or minimalist tiles. and the slow, elegant
everything into perspective. Walk around Colaba, decline – rather like
s Watching the sunset on Marine Churchgate, Oval in Havana – has made
Drive – it’s so cinematic. Maidan and Marine me very conscious that
s Seeing a Mumbai monsoon Drive and you will nothing lasts forever.
travel over the sea and hit the be rewarded with s The mixing of
land is awe-inspiring. fabulous examples. architectural styles,
s Mumbai rooftops, a favourite s Surprises such as such as the Gothic
secret space to meditate or do yoga roadside shrines in revival/Mogul CST
looking out over the city’s spires. trees, which change (Victoria Terminus),
over time through the High Court,
s What I call the taxi-cab lottery public participation. Mumbai University,
Fishing – sometimes they are spectacular,
and leisure with mirrored ceilings, floral walls and
s Nature reclaiming the Yacht Club and
boats in heritage buildings. the Gateway of India.
the harbour
seats, and coloured lights.

Priya at the
Gateway
of India

Try the panki chatni,


left, at Swati Snacks
#4 EATS
s The best food in Mumbai is often in homes,
ANUSHKA MENON; VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM; GETTY

but restaurants to try include Swati Snacks (the


panki chatni is legendary), Soam, Trishna and my
absolute favourite, Suzette, a French restaurant.
s Temporary delicious food stalls (the original pop-up
retail), especially those on Apollo Bundar in front of
Bombay Electric and the Gateway of India. The pani
puri man at Churchgate is a favourite.
s I love roadside fruit stalls for their displays and the
treats they sell, such as jamun, sitafal and Alphonso
mangoes, all delicious in smoothies, jam and ice cream.
LONDON BOUTIQUE - 14A NEW BOND STREET - TEL. +44 (0)207 499 22 25
HARRODS - 87-135 BROMPTON ROAD - TEL. +44 (0)207 893 81 57

ABU DHABI • BAL HARBOUR • CANNES • CAPRI • COURCHEVEL • DUBAI • G E N E VA • G S TA A D • K U WA I T


LONDON • MOSCOW • NEW YORK • PA R I S • PORTO CERVO • ROME • S BARTHELEMY
T • S MORITZ
T

www• degrisogono• com


Vortice
inVOGUE

PRACTISING RESTRAINT
If I could pick anywhere
in the world to have dinner
tonight, it would be the
Typing Room at the Town
BIG CITY LIVING Hall Hotel in Bethnal
I live in Paris with my boyfriend Green. I have a sweet tooth
and two cats, Lilou and Krystal. so I’d have to hold back
We have a proper Parisian when it came to dessert!
apartment: there’s a lot of street
noise and rustic, wooden beams.
We’ve recently rented a flat in I miss my kitchen when I’m
New York’s East Village, with the
away for work. My speciality
idea of spending more time there.
is pumpkin soup with orange
and ginger. Your very last
ingredient should always be
At 34, I’m a late bloomer. a large chunk of butter.
I was discovered on a tram
in Amsterdam when I
was 16, but it wasn’t until
I graduated from art school
in my late twenties that
my modelling career took
A life in fashion
Saskia de Brauw
off internationally. I was
a struggling artist, and
a photographer friend of
mine encouraged me to DREAM WORKS
make my life a little easier. THE DUTCH ARTIST AND MODEL ON SOBER A dream weekend
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Photographs by JAI ODELL

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Hair: Kei Terada. Make-up:
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editor: Lucy Bower

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Creative
REVIEW
On the eve of Frieze
London, we celebrate the
art world’s trailblazers,
from gallerists and artists
to curators and collectors.
By Hannah Nathanson

THE INSIDERS’ CLUB

The Cultivist
Known among its members as “the
Switzerland of the art world”, the
Cultivist, a global art club “offering
uniquely privileged access” to galleries
and art fairs, which launched this
summer, is a haven for its clients, who
include high-net-worth collectors, tech
company CEOs and leading designers.
HAIR: DIANA MOAR. MAKE-UP: EMMA WILLIAMS. MARLIES WEARS TOP, MICHAEL BY MICHAEL KORS, AT NET-A-PORTER. SKIRT, SACAI, AT NET-A-PORTER. SANDALS, MANOLO BLAHNIK.

Founders Daisy Peat, 36, and Marlies


Verhoeven, 32, left Sotheby’s, where
DAISY WEARS TOP, DRIES VAN NOTEN, AT BROWNS. JEANS, PAIGE. BOOTS, HER OWN. PREM WEARS T-SHIRT, COS. JEANS, ACNE. BOOTS, YMC. PREM SAHIB/SOUTHARD REID

they ran the Preferred programme,


with a killer contact list, and pride
themselves on unlocking the art world,
whether organising private tours of
Ai Weiwei’s Royal Academy show or
“Touch Tours” of Picasso’s sculptures
at Moma in New York.

From left: Marlies Verhoeven, Daisy


Peat and Prem Sahib at Lights of
Soho. Photograph: Benjamin
McMahon. Sittings editor: Nura Khan

THE TAKEOVER KID THE MEMBERS’ BAR

PREM SAHIB Lights of Soho


RA graduate Sahib, 32, has a habit of taking With a membership list that ranges
over entire galleries. He’s currently occupying from artists to poets and barbers,
both the lower and upper spaces at the ICA Lights of Soho on Brewer Street is
with Prem Sahib: Side On, which features Soho’s newest and, at £200 a year,
tiled column sculptures, neons programmed most affordable club for creatives.
to simulate breathing and “sweat panel” Since its May opening, the upstairs
paintings made using drops of resin. During gallery has shown works by Tracey
Frieze (October 14 to 17) he takes over Emin and “Neon Man” Chris Bracey.
Soho’s Southard Reid, shutter-boarding the The downstairs members’ bar hosts
gallery to reflect the closures happening talks about the artworks; the neon
in the area. For a bit of light relief, he’s also work spelling “Erotica Department” in
Bump (2013), hosting a club night at Corsica Studios in the subterranean lavatory pays homage
by Prem Sahib to the building’s former occupants.
south London with fellow artist Eddie Peake.

135
THE
HOM E OF
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*Calls cost 6 pence per minute plus network extras. Booking fee applies. Box office closes November 1, 2015. Standard advance ticket price £19.50, Preview Day £23.
THE LISTINGS GURU
VOGUEview
ART LICKS

Rachel Rose
with, below and
bottom, stills
from her films

Set up by Holly Willats, 28, Art Licks


began life as a listings site for niche
art events and now boasts a print THE VIDEO STAR
magazine, art tours and an alternative
Frieze event, Art Licks Weekend,
RACHEL ROSE
which focuses on the grassroots art
scene in east and south-east London.

THE SHUTTERBUG SHOW


t he video artist Rachel Rose, 28, is currently enjoying
enormous success, with a show at the Serpentine
Gallery in London and another later this month at the
Whitney Museum in New York. She is also the recipient of
this year’s Frieze Artist Award: visitors to the art fair will
Photo Shanghai be able to enter her installation – a small tent you can lie in
Set up last year by Alexander Montague- to experience life as an animal. “You might hear Justin Bieber, New pieces at
Studio Leigh
Sparey, 32, Photo Shanghai is Asia’s first but as a hedgehog might hear him,” she explains. in Shoreditch
international Art Fair dedicated solely to It was while on a master of fine arts course at Columbia
photography. As head of photographs University that Rose became interested in video: “I felt that THE FACTORY SPACE
at Christie’s London, Montague-Sparey painting couldn’t contain all the things I was thinking and
became the house’s youngest ever caring about so I edged away from being an artist and decided
Studio Leigh
director aged 27. to become a documentary director,” she recalls. Tayah Leigh Barrs,
Now working Rose shot a documentary in 2013, Sitting Feeding Sleeping, 26, transformed
independently, he is for which she visited zoos across America and researched the a 19th-century
assembling a collection lives of animals. Once she had started the editing process she varnish factory
for a Palm Beach realised she loved the tempo and rhythm, and only then in Shoreditch
house built by French began to see the film as a piece of art. Now, three years later, into a studio
designer Jacques her work is shown in space to champion
Grange. When not major galleries and emerging artists. A
buying for clients, he museums around the former art director
snaps up pieces by world and reflects her at Mario Testino’s studio, she has, for
Cecil Beaton for concerns, from global her debut project, brought together
his 18th-century warming to time, space works by 27 artists, each piece rooted
Lille townhouse. and history. FG in some way in the everyday.

Neighbourhood watch Capital exhibitions during Frieze London

NORTH SOUTH EAST WEST/CENTRAL


Kara Walker at Victoria Miro. Thea Djordjadze Phoebe Unwin at Wilkinson William Kentridge at Marian
Exploring cultural and racial at the South London Gallery. Unwin’s lyrical paintings Goodman. The South African
EDEL ASSANTI; ALASTAIR STRONG; SEAN CUNNINGHAM; RACHEL ROSE/PILAR CORRIAS GALLERY;
RYAN GANDER/LISSON GALLERY; SIMON BILL; LIAM GILLICK/MAUREEN PALEY; NOEMIE GOUDAL/

tensions, Walker was a huge hit Gallery. Djordjadze shift disconcertingly between artist’s first substantial exhibition
in New York last year with her explores material realism and abstraction. in London in 15 years.
monumental sculpture, Sugar Baby. tension in her first Jumana Manna at Chisenhale Ian Cheng at Pilar Corrias. Cheng’s
Jon Rafman at Zabludowicz London exhibition. Gallery. The Palestinian artist’s most digital explorations result in unusual
Collection. The poetic environments Cerith Wyn ambitious moving-image work to video and film works.
of the American artist come to Evans at White date, set in a sculptural installation. Noémie Goudal (below) at the
London for the first time. Cube Bermondsey. The conceptual Liam Gillick (below) at Maureen Photographers Gallery. Goudal’s
Ryan Gander (below) at Lisson artist takes over the 58,000sq ft Paley. New show reflects her fascination with
Gallery. The playful artist’s third solo space of the London super gallery York-based mankind’s relationship with the sky.
exhibition will leave you bemused with his new installations. Gillick is Chosen by Lucinda Lovell of
and entertained. Then For Now at Delfina known for his Contemporary Key
Foundation. This group exhibition intellectual
includes work by Tacita Dean, Mark gallery
ADRIAN LOURIE/EYEVINE

Wallinger and Simon Bill (above). installations


It is the first selling exhibition at the that focus on
Foundation, and will help support the role of
the next generation of artists. the viewer.

137
VOGUEview BEST
UPCOMING
SHOWS

THE DATA CRUNCHERS

AXNS
Art and science aren’t the likeliest of
EDDIE PEAKE bedfellows but this collective of young
WHO: Multi-
media White curators, scientists and art historians
Cube artist has been running a series of Art x
known for Data hackathons. This month they’re
naked
performance organising a workshop for the
pieces and Science Museum’s exhibition about
spray-painted
body art
Ada Lovelace, the 19th-century
(above). mathematician and daughter of Byron.
WHAT: The “Ada is a heroine of ours, both as an
Forever Loop,
THE CERAMICIST an interactive inspirational woman and in her belief
that art and science were two sides
Jesse Wine show over two
floors at the
Barbican’s
of the same coin,” says AXNS founder

i
t was by accident that the straight- Curve gallery; Rachel Stratton, 27 (above right, with
talking, fiery-haired sculptor began until January 10 co-founders Miranda Marcus, 27,
to work with clay. While he was OSCAR MURILLO left, and Rachel Bedder, 24)
studying for an MA at the Royal WHO: a 29-year-
Academy in 2010, Wine, 31, originally old Colombian-
born artist, THE SPACE INVADERS
from Chester, went on an exchange to who has been
Hunter College in New York where he called the new
Basquiat.
Caruso St John
was forced to take a clay and casting
WHAT: Binary As well as transforming Victorian
class: “As soon as I started working Function at scenery-painting studios into Damien
with clay I realised it was a superior David Zwirner
– huge canvases Hirst’s lofty Newport Street Gallery,
sculptural material and more suitable incorporating the London-
to my hand and my way of working,” really good at one thing. It’s a dirt, dust and
debris; until based firm
he explains, speaking from an artist traditional approach,” he says.
November 20 Caruso St
residency in the Dolomites, a long way It seems to be working. At Frieze
John has
from the converted garage in Elephant he’s showing a series of torsos and THEASTER GATES
WHO: Chicago created the
and Castle that is his base. busts, which have been made
superstar Gagosian’s
Would he consider adopting other instantaneously, as if sketching an known for his spacious
materials? “I would like to make videos idea but in 3D and using clay, as well urban-renewal
projects. new Mayfair
but I decided I’m going to become as a 13ft glazed totem pole for the WHAT: outpost. Both
fair’s sculpture garden. Sanctum, a
open in early
It takes him anything from five 24-day, round
the clock October.
hours to two weeks to create his other performance,
pieces. And when he’s not happy with featuring gospel
something he destroys it. “It’s a natural choir and THE ENTRY-LEVEL GALLERY
poetry readings,
part of the process.” Is there a certain
thrill in smashing up something he’s
in the ruins of
14th-century DOT PROJECT
just made? “Totally, getting rid of the Temple Church If you’re a novice collector with a
in Bristol; from
work feels great. That classic thing that October 29 budget that doesn’t stretch beyond
destruction is a form of creation is £5,000, then the first stop on your
Jesse Wine’s ceramic sculptures.
Top: Big Pictures (2015). Above: definitely true. It frees you up, it’s like art-shop trail should be the Dot
Young Man Red (2014) having a spring clean.” Project, run by India Whalley, 26,
Below: Untitled
(2015), by on Fulham Road. October sees the
HELEN RALLI. COLIN DAVISON; PAULA COURT; ALEX GARDNER/

THE COLLECTOR Alex Gardner gallery’s first solo exhibition with Los
Angeles-
Yassmin Ghandehari
LIMONCELLO/MARY MARY GALLERY; ANDY PEATE

based rising
It could well have been Ghandehari, 42, and star Alex
her husband Sasan who toppled Damien Hirst Gardner,
off this year’s Artnews top 200 collectors 26, whose
list. A founder member of the British Fashion compositions
Council Trust and Tate benefactor, she is a have been
Frieze regular, where she recently bought bought up
a painting by the acclaimed Spanish artist by half of
Secundino Hernandez. Hollywood.

138
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VOGUEview

a t first I was wary of another


film being made about
my father. His life is so
mythologised in pop culture, I don’t
think many of the documentaries made
My father’s
in the past have been that insightful
about him as a man. But Listen to
Me Marlon is different: it’s stitched
together entirely from audiotapes he
made from 1950 onwards, narrated in
VOICE
Marlon Brando was a Hollywood
his own words. I had never listened to legend with a reputation to match
the cassettes before – I don’t think any – and a family man, as an
of my family had. I knew he kept intimate new documentary
them, as I’d often hear him talking reveals. By Rebecca Brando
into his Dictaphone from afar, but
I just thought he was keeping ideas
for a script or a story. It turns out it
was much more like a private journal. hear about his suffering in his own Above left: everyone’s child. I think Dad admired
It wasn’t until after his death in words in this film is a very surreal Movita Castaneda that kind of lifestyle, too; not
and Marlon
2004 that we found them. In the end experience. Here he is suddenly Brando, Rebecca’s polygamy per se, but the idea that
Stevan Riley, the film’s director, revealing his innermost thoughts and mother and father, there’s not just one matriarch, that
at the premiere
listened to more than 300 hours of feelings on the big screen – in many of Mutiny on the
aunts, sisters and best friends can also
tape – I don’t know how many hours ways it has brought my dad back to Bounty in 1962. help raise your child. We all came
there are in total. The title of the film life after 10 years of mourning him. Top: Brando from such varied cultures; his first
during rehearsals
is a line taken from a self-hypnosis It’s very emotional for me. for The Men, 1949. wife, Anna Kashfi, was British, my
track Dad made in 1996: “Listen to My mother, Movita Castaneda, Above right: own mother was Mexican, and his
me, Marlon,” he says. “Listen to the was an actress. She met my father in Rebecca and her third wife, Tarita Teriipaia, he met in
brother Teihotu
sound of my voice and trust me… Just Mexico when he was researching his with their father Tahiti. There would be squabbles, of
relax, relax, relax…” He was hugely 1952 film Viva Zapata! By the time on his 74th course, but if there was a problem, he
birthday
into meditation throughout his life, I was born they had divorced, and she always preferred to address it head-
and passed it on to us kids. I remember had primary custody of me and my on, holding regular family meetings –
him guiding me through breathing elder brother, Miko, growing up. I he was a very fair mediator.
techniques as a child, telling me to spent time with Dad during the Dad was very good at understanding
AS TOLD TO LOUISA McGILLICUDDY. REBECCA BRANDO; GETTY

close my eyes, visualise a calm space… holidays; he was always around and people. Perhaps that’s why he made
It’s something he really relied on in great at bringing everyone together. such a brilliant actor – he could put
times of stress. It was a complex family unit, for himself in his character’s shoes, imagine
From talking to one of his sisters, sure, but one of the most important things from their point of view. If I was
I knew a little about the pain my things to Dad was sitting down having problems with a friend, he’d
father had experienced as a child: together at the dinner table. He was help me see things from their
their mother struggled terribly with married three times, so ex-wives perspective. I remember talking to him
alcoholism, and his relationship with would often be present, bickering over when I was in sixth grade: he asked me
their father, Marlon Sr, was incredibly who had loved him the most! But about my friends at school, was anyone
strained. But Dad was a private man I really cherished our dynamic – it bothering me? Was I listening to my
– he rarely spoke about his past. So to was like the village that takes care of teachers? That sort of thing. Then he >

147
VOGUEview
that label. The acting
teacher Stella Adler, who
you see in Listen to Me
Marlon, was his biggest
influence. Her maxim was:
“Think of your own
experiences and use them
truthfully.” So for each role
Dad would do extensive
research (in his first movie,
The Men, he played a
paraplegic and lived in an
Far left: amputees’ ward for a month to
Rebecca with
her father
prepare) and bring his own personal
on her wedding instincts to the part – which in those
day in 1999. days was completely different to his
Above: Brando
on Tetiaroa, contemporaries. After immersing
his island in himself so much in a role, sometimes
French Polynesia, after the film wrapped he would be
in the Seventies
– the actor fell really grumpy and hibernate for a
in love with the while; I think it was his way of
region when
he travelled there
decompressing. I remember when he
said, “Is there a kid in the class who to film Mutiny finished shooting Apocalypse Now –
always sits alone and has no one to on the Bounty. I was 13, and he still had his head
Left: as Stanley
talk to?” I said yes. “I want you to talk Kowalski in 1951’s shaved and some of the lingering
to that kid, ask them to hang out A Streetcar mannerisms of that character, running
with you at recess one day.” He always Named Desire his hand over his head like he does in
rooted for the underdog, always. the film. It was eerie.
He worked towards justice, not just Right now I like to go back and
at home but in the global sense, too: watch his early movies, such as On the
Listen to Me Marlon shows some of Waterfront. It’s regarded as one of his
his humanitarian work, which makes with astounding recognition, “Boy, best, but at the same time it’s quite hard
me feel incredibly proud. Marching I was incredibly handsome, wasn’t I?” for me to watch because there’s so much
alongside Martin Luther Introducing my boyfriends to Dad sadness and betrayal – it resonates with
King in the fight for civil He thought was something of a terrifying experience the personal issues my father faced.
rights, refusing an Oscar for for them. He would start by saying His world was filled with so much
The Godfather in response to
that without something to throw them off, like, distrust, he found it hard to rely on
the misrepresentations laughter you “You’d better not be getting up to any people to be his real friend and not
of Native Americans in the couldn’t survive hanky-panky in that room!” He would exploit him. That’s where I really felt
entertainment industry. It was ask endless questions about their family for him, because throughout his life he
his way of empathising with people and history – he was fascinated by heritage. searched for true friendship and loyalty.
it shaped the woman I am, especially I remember I was dating a guy from the Of course I’ll always watch The
my career as a psychotherapist. Netherlands once, and when they first Godfather when it’s on television,

n
met, Dad tried to rattle him by talking because he changed a lot of the script
obody ever really knew what in his language. I guess he forgot that with Francis Ford Coppola – pretty
Dad was thinking. He had Dutch people speak Dutch, so he remarkable at the time. I am still
an intimidating presence at started gibbering away in German. amazed at how he can convince his
times and was quite introverted, often He spoke many languages very well own flesh and blood that he is someone
sitting silently, just observing and – Spanish, Japanese, Italian and, of else – it’s incredible to me that I am
thinking – something that all of us course, fluent French, which you hear fooled, that he has conned me into
siblings have inherited. Having said in Last Tango in Paris. (Unsurprisingly believing that he is no longer my father
that, he was also fun and playful, which it’s one of the few films of his I can’t but this entirely new person. It just
I think not a lot of audiences realise. He watch, even as a grown woman – its shows what an amazing actor he was.
had a great sense of humour and Brando in sex scenes are just too graphic.) My hope for Listen To Me Marlon is
a cowboy
thought that without laughter you costume He didn’t like to talk to my brothers that, once and for all, audiences will see
REBECCA BRANDO; THE BRANDO ESTATE; REX FEATURES

really couldn’t survive in life. I remember as a boy and sisters about the industry. He my father as a human being; that there
one afternoon when we were watching didn’t want us to know about is more to the actor than what was
TV with him, we were surfing the the business at all. I considered written in the papers about him; that
channels and came across A Streetcar being an actress for a while – it he was very much like you and me. We
Named Desire. I switched over, knowing seemed so glamorous, and my all have our own traumas, and nobody
he never cared to watch himself act, but mother and siblings’ mothers is perfect. We all want to be accepted
this time he said, “Wait a minute. Don’t were all actors – but Dad was and validated, and we’re all acting to
you want to watch your dear old dad absolutely against the idea. reach that point. We’re all actors.  Q
when he was young?” Surprised by his Nowadays he is associated with “Listen To Me Marlon” is released on
request, I switched back. My dad said the Method style but he hated October 23

148
VOGUEview
Rule-breakers
and rule-makers…
left, Patti Smith’s
follow-up to the
award-winning
Just Kids; below,
travels with
feminist and
adventurer
Gloria Steinem

Revert to
TYPE
Curl up with the latest releases,
of Seventies New York (Bloomsbury,
£18.99) to Drew Barrymore’s
Wildflower, mini memoirs that include
skydiving with Cameron Diaz and
lying her way into her breakout role in
from chilling fiction to women
ET with Steven Spielberg (Ebury,
who inspire. By Susie Rushton £16.99), to a gal they’re in a nostalgic

a
mood. Feminist writer and activist
utumn’s new fiction will have Gloria Steinem chimes in with My Life
you sitting uncomfortably, for on the Road (Oneworld, £14.95),
suspense is the sensation of the which describes travels of self-discovery
moment. Gillian Flynn’s The Grown- in India and the campaign trail with
Up (Orion, £3.99) is a psychologically Hillary Clinton. Another restless
taut novella told from the viewpoint of woman, PJ Harvey, publishes her first
a con artist, whose attempted trick is work of poetry and pictures, The
thwarted by a malevolent teenage boy. Hollow of the Hand (Bloomsbury,
The action takes place in a classic £45), a collaboration with photographer
From top: creepy house – a motif that also appears Seamus Murphy, delving into real,
young guns, in Audrey Niffenegger’s short story often desperately poor, lives in Kosovo,
by Ryan “Secret Life, With Cats”, a standout Afghanistan and Washington, DC.
McGinley;
beauty and in Ghostly (Vintage Classics, £14.99), Back in dreamland, the acclaimed
representation an anthology of tales intended to cause art photographer Ryan McGinley,
in Body of Art;
shudders. Slade House (Hodder & known for hazy nudes in wild
REGAN CAMERON; RYAN McGINLEY; PIXELATE.BIZ; THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION/GETTY

essays on a
Hollywood Stoughton, £12.99) is David Mitchell’s landscapes, publishes a luxurious
life, by Drew latest novel, and it is just as fantastical coffee-table fantasy, Way Far (Rizzoli,
Barrymore
as his other book published in the past £35). The result of his famous summer
year, The Bone Clocks. The road trips, McGinley’s remarkable
eponymous house here is yet images capture the ideal of youthful
another eerie building, this abandon – all unkempt hair and
time in a rundown corner of exploding fireworks. Taking in Western
London: enter through its and non-Western art, ancient to
black door and it’s a safe bet contemporary, Botticelli to Vanessa
you’ll never be seen again. Beecroft, Phaidon’s huge Body of Art
Poetry and
poverty around
Name a woman you admire (£39.95) is an even more exhaustive
the world… and it’s likely she’s got a memoir study of the human form: glorious
The Hollow out this autumn: from Patti imagery and accessible texts lay bare the
of the Hand, by
PJ Harvey and Smith’s M Train, which collects story of our bodies in more detail than
Seamus Murphy fragments of her life in and out you ever realised you needed to see. Q

150
VOGUE PROMOTION

Anything goes: an

Steal the ankle-grazing boot


silhouette fits the
transitional mood

SHOW
with ease. From
thigh-skimming
skirts to drainpipes,
this adaptable
style works with
all lengths
From idle autumn days to Classic Mini boot,
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lingering nights, relish the style shake-up Uggaustralia.co.uk
of a new season with UGG® Hair: Karin Bigler.
Make-up: Zoe Taylor.
Nails: Pebbles Aikens.
Photographed by Richard Truscott Stylist: Joanna Schlenzka.
Model: Anouk Hagemeijer
SWEATER AND SKIRT, ROCKET. SUNGLASSES, RAY-BAN. JEWELLERY, ALEX MONROE
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to achieve originality in your downtime
An element of irreverence is no bad thing when you want
THIS PAGE: SHEEPSKIN COAT, FRENCH CONNECTION. POLONECK AND LEATHER SKIRT, COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS.
OPPOSTIE: LEATHER JACKET, FRENCH CONNECTION. BLOUSE, ORLA KIELY. JEANS, CURRENT ELLIOTT
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Refine a rebellious
attitude with a sleek
slip-on. This is
what happens when
luxury meets the
latest techniques
in craftsmanship
Classic Mini boot, £135, UGG

RICHARD TRUSCOTT
VOGUE PROMOTION

Be first in line to
make this season’s
debut boot your
personal style
signifier – the
Luxe comes in
three different
styles, all with
enduring appeal
Abree boot, £220, UGG

COAT, RELLIK. POLONECK, GHOST. LEATHER SKIRT AND HAT, REISS. JEWELLERY, ALEX MONROE

RICHARD TRUSCOTT
VOGUEview

WHERE TO SHOP
For traditional ponchos, woven
belts and authentic gaucho boots,
head to the two best stores in
Buenos Aires, Cardón (right) and
Arandú. Visit San Telmo (above)
at the weekend. Its bustling streets,
alleys and vintage market are
packed with Argentine curiosities.
MARIO TESTINO; ISTOCK;

WHERE
TO EAT
Voted one of Latin America’s
best restaurants, Tegui (above)
is a gem behind a graffitied wall
WHERE TO STAY
Latin LOVER
and an unassuming black door.
In old-town Recoleta, the belle Chef Germán Martitegui
époque grandeur of the Alvear changes the menu so regularly it
Palace Hotel (below) has seduced might be worth more than one
guests including Arthur Miller Sweeping landscapes, dazzling visit – assuming you can get in.
Book at least a month in advance.
and Sophia Loren. For something architecture and chicly dressed gauchos…
more contemporary – with an
outdoor pool – try the Philippe
Sarah Harris is beguiled by Argentina
GAUCHO
Starck-designed Faena hotel. GARB
Its cabaret plays host to the city’s
number-one tango show. MAISON
MICHEL
FELT HAT, £365,
AT MATCHES
FASHION.COM
MAX MARA
WEEKEND
COTTON
SHIRT, £125,
AT HARRODS

BURBERRY PRORSUM
PENELOPE WOOL/CASHMERE
CHILVERS PONCHO, £1,995
LEATHER
BOOTS,

WHAT TO DO £469

A tour of La Recoleta Cemetery (above) should


be top of your list. Eva Perón is buried here, as well
as presidents of Argentina, Nobel Prize winners
and the granddaughter of Napoleon.
VOGUEview
ASTRID MUNOZ’S
BUENOS AIRES
WHAT TO EAT
When you’re invited for dinner in Buenos
Aires, expect to have a proper asado. Every
home has a wall-to-wall barbecue and
Las Cabezas and, everything happens around it. Being from a
left, Serafina on the Caribbean island, I grew up cooking fish, so to
“I love road trips,” says
farm with her son start I make mini crab cakes with sweet chilli
Astrid. Below: Astrid and
her family gather for polo sauce and mini empanadas with a Moroccan
Going gaucho aubergine recipe. For a main course, I cook
a great big salmon served with salad.
With Serafina Sama, founder and designer of Isa Arfen
I think Argentinian gauchos are the chicest men in the world, so FAVOURITE LUNCH SPOT
I like to go to Casa Cavia, recently
I have fun trying to replicate their look when I go horse-riding.
opened by one of the greatest chefs in
Bombachas de campo are their traditional riding trousers, with very Argentina, Pablo Massey. It’s in the Recoleta
wide, pleated legs that narrow down at the ankle and can be tucked area in the centre of Buenos Aires, and it
into boots or worn with alpargatas (espadrilles). They look serves delicious seafood salads and Argentine-
fantastic with a white shirt and a neck scarf. At other times I wear fusion combinations. Plus, it’s near one of my
skinny jeans with an oversized shirt belted with one of the typical favourite shopping malls, Paseo Alcorta.
woven sashes. I love going to the nearby villages to hunt for
FOR DINNER
ponchos and ornate leather belts decorated with silver coins. Casa Cruz is always a good place to see
Argentina is a carnivore’s heaven. On most evenings we have a pretty people, eat great food and have some
big asado, the traditional Argentinian barbecue. It usually consists fun. After dinner, most stay for drinks and
of beef and various other meats cooked on a grill called a parrilla, dancing. I also love Bassa, which is gourmet,
accompanied by salads, grilled vegetables and too much red wine. serving small portions with a fusion mix of
Another dish to try is empanadas, delicious pastries filled with different flavours from all parts of Argentina.
meat, cheese or vegetables. And dulce de leche… it’s my guilty The drinks menu is also wonderful.
pleasure in the morning, on a slice of warm bread. FONDEST MEMORY
The farm holds so many precious memories. I have spent most I love road trips. Every year I pick a place in
of my Christmas holidays at Las Cabezas since I was a child. Argentina to drive to and I take photographs.
Waking up at sunrise to go riding with the gauchos and help them Argentina is so vast: there are amazing red
move the cattle is always incredible, and the nights filled with deserts in the northwest, lush rain forests in
millions of fireflies are magical. Every year we throw a party for the northeast, and mountains in southern
everybody who works on the farm and their families. There is a Patagonia. You can go from hot weather to
big barbecue and a doma, a sort of rodeo where gauchos tame wild the iceberg Perito Moreno, all in one country.
horses, followed by more red wine and dancing. And on the last FOR THE WEEKEND
day of the holiday, we fill a jeep with food and drinks and we have I spend it at the farm with my extended family.
a big aperitivo in front of the most sensational sunset. We get together every Saturday and Sunday,
13 adults – more with friends – and 21 children
aged one to 16. We have to eat in three shifts,
first the kids, then teenagers, then adults. It’s
DON’T MISS: JOSE IGNACIO, URUGUAY heaven for the kids, who are constantly on
José Ignacio in Punta del Este is a short flight from Buenos Aires, horses, playing tennis, fishing, walking and
followed by a 40-minute drive, but the retreat is worth the journey climbing trees, while the men play polo.
Astrid with her husband.
WHERE TO STAY
Below: weekends are DON’T MISS
spent on the farm
At any one of the Vik The Hipódromo de Palermo horse track.
Hotels: for a gaucho, colonial It’s one of the biggest polo fields in the world,
experience, Estancia Vik is and it’s impressive to go in mid-November
inland and surrounded by for the Gran Premio Nacional. The speed at
horses, while Bahia Vik, the which they play should be illegal. In addition to
family’s latest opening, has San Telmo, with its Sunday vintage market,
ultra-chic glass bungalows I love to visit the Malba museum.
(right) dotted along José BUY
Ignacio’s coastline. Riding boots and ponchos from Arandú,
WHERE TO EAT and alpaca pieces, leather and silverware from
La Huella and La Susana are Aire del Sur. For jewellery I like an artisan
the best beachside lunch spots. called Caledonia who makes necklaces with
Come night-time, head to Marismo crystals, corals and turquoise. There are lots
WHAT TO DO
Go cycling, (left), a secluded, off-the-beaten- of wonderful art auction houses, too. Breuer
sunbathe and track restaurant in a pine forest. Moreno and Sarachaga are my favourites.
swim – if you’re Book a table by the open fire
prepared to brave WEAR
the chilly and order the lamb. Boots and ponchos! I collect ponchos, and
Atlantic I’m actually designing a few styles in leather.

156
555 King’s Road, London, SW6 2EB
124 Holland Park Avenue, London, W11 4UE
Harrods Brompton Road, London, SW1X 7XL

T +44 (0)20 7229 5148

www.therugcompany.com

Bamboo Trellis Blue by Neisha Crosland


VOGUEspy

FROM LEFT: EMBROIDERED


SILK, £2,110, LOUIS
VUITTON. SILK, £1,565,
SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI
SLIMANE. EMBROIDERED
SATIN, £1,485, JONATHAN
SAUNDERS, AT
MATCHESFASHION.COM

Pacific ARENA
SUDHIR PITHWA. COMPILED BY NAOMI SMART

The souvenir jacket started out just after the Second World War as a precious memento for
American servicemen in Japan, who had their jackets or shirts embroidered with maps, animals, birds
and blossoming native flowers before sending them home to loved ones. Now these exotic collectibles
are reimagined in vivid silks by Nicolas Ghesquière, Hedi Slimane and Jonathan Saunders.
Traditional Eastern craft meets American sportswear; consider it the new trophy jacket.
161
MIU MIU CELINE
VOGUEspy
CANVAS CANVAS AND
FLATS, £465 LEATHER BUCKET
BAG, £1,140

BOSS ROGER VIVIER


LEATHER LEATHER
BAG, £1,390 BOOTS, £785

BALLY
LEATHER SADDLE
BAG, £1,350

SERGIO ROSSI
SATIN HEELS, £895
SUDHIR PITHWA

MONO mania
STRIKE BOLD WITH A MONOCHROME HIT. KEEP IT
CLEAN-CUT – CHEQUERBOARD, BLOCKED OR STRIPED
SPELL A NEW GRAPHIC POLISH

PAUL ANDREW
LEATHER BOOTS, £675,
AT HARVEY NICHOLS

VALENTINO GARAVANI
ENAMEL CLUTCH, £1,730

163
VOGUEspy

Softly SOFTLY
SLIP INTO THE SLOUCHED, SQUASHED-DOWN
SUEDE OR RUCHED-UP LEATHER ANKLE BOOT.
IT’S TIME TO CUT SOME SLACK

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: LEATHER, £810, GIANVITO ROSSI.


SUEDE, £850, JIMMY CHOO. SUEDE, £785, MANOLO BLAHNIK.
SUDHIR PITHWA

FOR STOCKISTS, ALL PAGES, SEE VOGUE INFORMATION

164
PARIS 45 RUE CHARLOT - 75003 / 21 RUE SAINT-SULPICE - 75006 NEUILLY SUR SEINE 18 RUE DE CHARTRES
AIX EN PROVENCE 12 RUE MARIUS REYNAUD

WWW.MESDEMOISELLESPARIS.COM
Cometh the

HOUR
After months of anticipation, Uniqlo
and Lemaire’s collaboration is finally
available. And the results? Every bit as
covetable as you could have imagined
Photographs by Andrew Vowles
Styling by Raphael Hirsch

 t
he world of fashion is full of
collaboration announcements, but few
have the ability to elicit the levels of
longing as when Lemaire revealed that it
would be creating a collection of relaxed
separates for Uniqlo, bringing the Parisian
fashion house’s special brand of laid-back
luxury to high streets all over the world.
But Uniqlo and Lemaire, as it has been dubbed,
is more than a one-season wonder – these
are pieces that will enjoy a lengthy and relied-
on presence in the wardrobes of women who

Lemaire’s knack for


infusing a laissez-faire
attitude into its clothes
results in a lesson in
relaxed refinement
get to the front door of their nearest store first.
Rich, sumptuous cashmeres that contrast with
MARIA WEARS SHOES, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

high-quality, high-tech fabrics in a focused


palette of forest green, French navy, crisp
white and merry red define the collection
that – although the levels of attention to
detail are clear to see and feel – remains
uncomplicated in its aesthetic. It’s refined
without being over-polished; relaxed with
Distinctive for its cut and quality, this collection will win style points subtle structure; demure without drama; or
with your colleagues and clients alike Top: cashmere-blend robe coat, £149.90. as Uniqlo and Lemaire put it: “simple, made
Cashmere-blend gaucho pants, £39.90. Above: cropped long-sleeve lambswool sweater, £29.90.
Sleeveless V-neck lambswool sweater, £24.90. Extra-fine merino skirt, £39.90 Hair: Karin better”. We’re already hoping that there’s a
Bigler. Make-up: Dele Olo. Nails: Pebbles Aikens. Models: Maria Debicka and Ollie Pallister part two to this play. Q
VOGUE PROMOTION
Whether you
opt for the total
Uniqlo and
Lemaire look or
pepper your
existing arsenal
with an edit of
new pieces, the
result will have
instant impact
Sleeveless V-neck
lambswool sweater,
£24.90. Hooded coat,
£129.90. Extra-fine
merino skirt, £39.90
THE SHILLA 20-21 APRIL
Join Suzy Menkes and luxury business and creative leaders
as they explore the future of luxury and the role of Northeast
Asia as a new hub for the industry.
“Home to a young, tech-savvy population, and one of Asia’s
largest luxury markets, now is the perfect time to hold the
world’s first international luxury conference in Seoul.”
Suzy Menkes, International Vogue Editor

TOPICS TO BE COVERED INCLUDE:


The power of the Asian beauty market
How luxury brands should be targeting younger consumers
Travel retail opportunities
The on-going convergence of fashion and technology
What the future holds for the luxury industry

FIND OUT MORE AND BOOK YOUR PLACE NOW:


CNILuxury.com

@CNILuxury / @SuzyMenkesVogue
adrian.ting@condenastint.com / +44 20 7152 3472
SPONSORS INCLUDE:
VOGUEspy
Box
fresh
The charming,
retro-framed box
bag is having
a renaissance.
What this dinky
accessory
lacks in size,
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO it makes up for
LEATHER BAG, £1,320
in panache

f emininity
Return to
ROMANCE IS IN THE AIR. EMBRACE
YOUR SOFTER SIDE WITH RUFFLES, PLEATS
AND LACE, SAYS NAOMI SMART

PHILOSOPHY BY
LORENZO SERAFINI
WOOL-MIX SWEATER,
Just for frills
This gentle, dreamy detail is
a decorative high point. Focus
£195, AT STYLEBOP.COM
on ruched wool or billowing
chiffon for frills with finesse
PAUL BOWDEN; SUDHIR PITHWA

TRADEMARK
COTTON TOP, £235, AT
GUCCI RESORT 2015

MATCHESFASHION.COM
JW ANDERSON
COTTON-MIX
SKIRT, £365

169
VOGUEspy
Poets’ corner
Take a lyrical approach to dressing and create
a wardrobe imbued with romance – poet
sleeves are a good place to begin
PRINGLE OF
SCOTLAND
CASHMERE LARKSPUR & HAWK
TWINSET, £595 TOPAZ AND RESIN
COMB, £1,150

Heirloom
jewels
ALTUZARRA Antiques roadshow:
CASHMERE CARDIGAN, seek out stone-set
£390. CASHMERE signets, lavish
TOP, £295. BOTH AT
JEFFERYNEWYORK.COM
earrings with inches
of drop, or a
Georgian-inspired
comb for a flourish
Doubles match of decadent drama

Rethink the Sloane uniform; a twinset


instantly neatens up favourite jeans.

OSCAR DE LA RENTA
Our sartorial pearls of wisdom? Pair
with a single cuff or multi-stud earrings
DIANE VON
FURSTENBERG

A/W ‘15
CHIFFON DRESS,
£325
ALEXANDER M CQUEEN
CRYSTAL RING, £345

Best foot forward


A teasing glint of crystal, a flirtatious bow
and a wink of polka-dot satin make for
a welcome party guest BOTTEGA VENETA
ZIRCONIA
EARRINGS, £530

SUDHIR PITHWA; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; MITCHELL SAMS


ROCHAS
SATIN COURTS,
£535, AT
NET-A-PORTER.COM

GIVENCHY BY
RICCARDO TISCI
CRYSTAL EARRINGS,
FROM £440

RED VALENTINO
SKIRT, £590

VICTORIA BECKHAM
DRESS, £2,890
Lace up
Heart-skipping
peekaboo lace entices in
DOLCE & GABBANA A/W ‘15

BURBERRY PRORSUM monochrome. Styling tip:


DRESS, £1,895
a grey cashmere sweater
sings when paired with
a frou-frou skirt

170
EVERYTHING REDUCED BUT THE THRILL
VOGUEspy Take the plunge
A shoulder-skimming blouse is a
head-turner. Partner with a skirt
rippling with ruffs for a seductive
take on a classic Fifties silhouette
PROENZA SCHOULER
CLOQUE SKIRT, £1,120
MARY KATRANTZOU
SILK-MIX SKIRT, £1,175

Pleats JOHANNA ORTIZ


COTTON SHIRT,

offering £330. SATEEN


SKIRT, £520. BOTH
AT ON MOTCOMB

Contemporary
corrugations: look
to beautifully
sculpted pleats set
in shimmery metallic
or rainbow chiffon

HARRIS WHARF
LONDON WOOL, £410,
AT NET-A-PORTER.COM

BY MALENE BIRGER
WOOL, £369

Tie the knot


CHRISTOPHER KANE A/W ‘15

A cashmere/wool duster coat is the ultimate


in understated luxury. Tip: tie with a dressing-
gown belt for a Hitchcockian update

RAEY CASHMERE/WOOL, £695,


AT MATCHESFASHION.COM
SUDHIR PITHWA; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; MITCHELL SAMS

Twinkle toes DOLCE & GABBANA


JEWELLED
GROSGRAIN, £575
PAUL ANDREW SATIN
AND CRYSTAL, £465, AT
NET-A-PORTER.COM
TABITHA SIMMONS
LEATHER AND SWAROVSKI
CRYSTAL, £995
Only ladies need apply:
twin your demure
slingbacks with cropped
flares for a lesson
in modern deportment

172
VOGUEspy
JOSEPH
CREPE
TOP, £245 WINSER LONDON
CASHMERE
CARDIGAN, £195

TIBI VELVET
CAMISOLE,
FROM £235

Be inspired
“ENSEMBLE PIECES” (PAGE 188) RAISES
THE CURTAIN ON THE SEASON’S DANCE-
INFLUENCED DESIGNS. LET’S PUT ON THE DANCE CLASS
SHOW RIGHT HERE, SAYS NAOMI SMART “Pina Bausch’s fluid
slip dresses, like her,
moved beautifully. BARRE
GIANVITO
ROSSI
SUEDE
It was these and her
freedom of expression
BELLE
HEELS,
that were my original Freshen up a slicked
£590
inspirations,” says balletic bun and lift to
fashion director turban-like proportions.
Lucinda Chambers Finish with a dramatic
flick of eyeliner –
simplicity at its best

ATEA OCEANIE ESTEE


WRAP DRESS, £310 LAUDER
MARNI RESIN LITTLE BLACK

PATRICK DEMARCHELIER; SUDHIR PITHWA; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; MITCHELL SAMS; JODY TODD; PIXELATE.BIZ; CAMERA PRESS
EARRINGS, £280 LINER, £22

JENNIFER BEHR
GERARD SATIN HAIRBAND,
DAREL £110, AT
CREPE AVENUE32.COM
TROUSERS,
£185

BODY EDITIONS
COTTON BODY, £216,
AT NET-A-PORTER.COM
CELINE

ORIBE
VOLUMISTA,
£29, AT
SPACE NK

PARTNER UP
A wrap-waist silk
dress in a soft palette
mimics costumes on DKNY
SILK-MIX
stage. Partner with SKIRT, £175
loose trousers for
a modern spin

176
VOGUE PROMOTION

The grand

TOUR
Two levels of luxury, with over 40 of your favourite
boutiques to explore, keeps The Village at Westfield London
one of the most desirable fashion destinations
Photographs by Dan Smith

It’s the season when


the coat comes into
its own. Salvatore
Ferragamo’s statement
graphic pattern has
been spotted, noted
and is now a planned
purchase
Coat, £12,225, Salvatore
Ferragamo. Bag, £450,
Mulberry. Boots, £335,
Church’s. All items available at
The Village,Westfield London.
Hair: Keiichiro Hirano.
Make-up: Jenny Coombs.
Nails: Zaida Ibrahim-Gani.
Stylist: Nura Khan.
Model: Laura Kampman
The art of successful accessorising lies in your edit: if you must
pack just one pair of shoes for a winter break, opt for a pair of
perennially chic Mary-Janes
Shoes, £550. Bag, from a selection. Both Prada. All items available at The Village, Westfield London
VOGUE PROMOTION
Look ahead to
Fashion Week now
to be the best-
dressed there.
Layers of oversized
textures in jolty hues
hold the key
Coat, £450, Maje. Dress,
£295, Aquascutum. Bag,
£1,030, Gucci. All items
available at The Village,
Westfield London

DAN SMITH
VOGUE PROMOTION
Indulge yourself by
building your
collection of cover-
ups: it helps the
sartorial psyche to
have a hanging
selection to choose
from in the morning
Cape, £1,595, Burberry
Prorsum. Bag, £1,030, Gucci.
All items available at The
Village, Westfield London

DAN SMITH
VOGUEchecklist
Autumn’s fashion harvest reveals a cornucopia of coats,
clutches and cosmetics. Time to get picking
Edited by VIRGINIA CHADWYCK-HEALEY

Turning
PINK
Perfectly pink in every
way, these three
gems take the colour READER EVENT
of the season
to a whole new
level of GO
VAN CLEEF
& ARPELS
VINTAGE
PENDANT,
luxury.
WEST
£2,350
On Thursday November 26,
Vogue and Westfield London
(Shepherd’s Bush) invite you
to a sparkling evening of
shopping and style. Seek out
Vogue’s star picks and start the
search for the ultimate party
PATEK wardrobe before anyone else.
PHILIPPE
WHITE-GOLD With free gifts at your favourite
AND DIAMOND
CALATRAVA
stores and a Vogue goody bag
WATCH, for the first guests through the
£137,040,
PATEK.COM door, it’s set to be a fashion-filled
night. Register now at Westfield.
com/thevillagelondon

DE
GRISOGONO
OPAL AND
PINK-SAPPHIRE
GRAPPOLI S09
WATCH WITH
SHAGREEN
STRAP, £74,100

ASPINAL
FENWICK’S LEATHER TOTE,
£295, ASPINALOF
BEAUTY HAUL LONDON.COM

Fenwick’s Bond Street flagship has launched TOTES


Global Beauty Icons, a new destination USEFUL
for the luxury brands we know and love
– and some new names, too. In addition,
James Duigan is opening his first Clean
ALASDAIR McLELLAN; EUGENE VERNIER; PAUL BOWDEN; JODY TODD

& Lean café and nutritionist Amelia Freer


has joined forces with Botanic Lab juices.
Suki, Sisley, La Prairie, Charlotte Tilbury
and Chanel also take centre stage.

LA PRAIRIE
ANTI-AGING
RAPID
RESPONSE
SISLEY CHARLOTTE MAC PATENT CHARLOTTE ARQUISTE BOOSTER,
SUPREMYA TILBURY MAGIC POLISH LIP TILBURY NANBAN EAU £195. ALL AT
BAUME, COMPLEXION PENCIL IN TEEN MAGIC FOUNDATION, DE PARFUM, FENWICK
£475 BRUSH, £45 DREAM, £17.50 £29.50 £150

181
VOGUEchecklist
CHANEL
TIME

Boyfriends come
and go but Chanel’s
new watch design,
Boyfriend, is certainly
one to keep.

1
2 3

Long division
Now is the time to invest in the longer length. We love…
1. Suede, Raey, £395. 2. Metallic, Golden Goose Deluxe Brand,
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Pink packs a punch this


month thanks to the
percentage of profits
from Stella McCartney’s
Alina Playing underwear
set going to the Linda
McCartney Centre
in Liverpool and the
National Breast Cancer
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SUEDE, £575,
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It’s not time to hibernate
yet. A good pedi or a
great ankle sock plus one
of these eye-catching
styles and you’re set…
JODY TODD

182
OLD BOND STREET – LONDON

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VOGUEchecklist
COAT to COAT
The autumn/winter catwalks ran the gamut
from classic to quilted to ornate

MARC CAIN
ALPACA AND
WOOL, £495, BIBA HERITAGE
EMBELLISHED CREPE, £125,
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£2,130, FENDI.COM

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The new flagship
CHRISTIAN MACDONALD; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; JODY TODD; PAUL BOWDEN

store at 70 South
Audley Street
in Mayfair has
recently opened to
Knots landing
Delve into the exquisite Bottega Veneta store from October 23 to 25
coincide with the label’s 10th anniversary. ERDEM
and not only will you be greeted by charming staff and a delectable
EMBROIDERED
The beautiful interior, designed by architect ORGANZA collection, you’ll also be able to see The Knot: A Retrospective, a
Philip Joseph, paired with pieces exclusive to DRESS, £2,940
travelling exhibition that pays homage to the brand’s famous handbag-
the store, make this the destination for your with-knot detail. Feast your eyes on one-off designs and delight in
next dose of Erdem wonder. Tomas Maier’s extraordinary vision. 14 Old Bond Street, W1

184
The Marylebone Tech in Burgundy Python

ASPINALOFLONDON.COM TEL: + 44 (0) 1428 648180


vogue
Left: Ensemble
Pieces, page 188
Below: Tumble
Town, page 202

The Spy Who


Loved Me,
page 214

Throwing
SHAPES
It is with a transformative twist
that the new season arrives. The
best fashion embraces our desire
to move – and live – in our clothes,
so be enthralled by the shape-
shifting allure of layered silks,
the hedonistic thrill of luxed-up
leather, or even the reassuring
touch of winter’s soft florals
and gentle yarns. The delight of
November is being able to fall in love with texture
all over again, so step into a refreshingly dynamic
winter season with tactile grace.
187
ensemble
PIECES
Tap into the rhythm of the new season; spin, swing and whirl.
Clothes that move in tune with the body are the most liberating of all…
Photographs by Patrick Demarchelier. Styling by Lucinda Chambers

188
A stageworthy
presence flows
in the cut of
Valentino’s white-
on-black dress.
Finish with
far-reaching
fingerless gloves
Opposite: wool and silk
dress, £2,595, Valentino.
Halterneck top, £12,
Topshop. Wool trousers,
from £1,065, Céline.
Hairband, throughout,
£2.50, John Lewis.
Legwarmers, worn
as arm warmers
throughout, from £60,
Balletbeautiful.com
Create a sense of
movement in the
blink of an eye
with YSL Dessin
Du Regard Eye
Pencil in Velvet
Black, £20
This page: laminated
tulle dress, £2,050,
Gucci. Resin earrings,
£200, Marni.
Hair: Sam McKnight.
Make-up: Sally Branka.
Nails: Anatole Rainey.
Digital artwork:
D Touch. Model:
Karlie Kloss

189
190
A Céline bag
with exaggerated
proportions in
a duo of navy
and burgundy is
on fashion point
this season
Opposite: two-tone
body, £190, Body
Editions, at Net-a-
Porter.com. Black
Neoprene shorts,
£365, La Perla.
Leather shopper,
from £1,070, Céline
The girl goes
dancing there:
camel is the
natural foil
for black on
Sportmax’s
tailored dress.
Wear over
generous
trousers for
a modern twist
This page: two-tone
dress, £565, Sportmax.
Chiffon trousers,
£395, McQ Alexander
McQueen. Leather
Mary-Janes, £375,
Rag & Bone

PATRICK DEMARCHELIER 191


An updo, a
hairband and an
excellent fixing
spray will keep
hair in place no
matter how much
you move. Try
KMS California
Hair Stay
Maximum Hold
Spray, £14
This page: black and
white dress, £1,500,
Jil Sander. Halterneck
top, £12, Topshop
Interpretative
style: why not
team Osman’s silk
ballgown with
a jersey vest for a
daywear swish?
Opposite: black silk
dress, £1,550, Osman.
White leather belt, £320,
Marni. Halterneck
top and Mary-Janes,
as before

192 PATRICK DEMARCHELIER


193
194
Dance like no
one is watching.
The gentle
rise and fall
of Marni’s silk
dress in grenache
will provide
the spotlight
Opposite: silk dress,
£1,330. Resin earrings,
£200. Both Marni.
Satin trousers,
£60, Zara. Patent-
leather Mary-Janes,
£375, Rag & Bone.
Socks, £4, Topshop.
Earrings and halterneck
top, as before
Shape up: try
this season’s new
architectural cuts
for a different
point of view and
be inspired by
Undercover’s
fresh perspective
on a peplum
This page: black body,
£270, David Koma.
Wool skirt with peplum,
£450, Undercover, at
Selfridges. Halterneck
top, as before

PATRICK DEMARCHELIER 195


196
Céline’s
undulating folds
of silk and satin
move to the beat
in this Pina
Bausch-inspired
ensemble
Opposite: silk dress,
from £3,350, Céline.
White viscose trousers,
£885, Balenciaga.
Socks, £4, Topshop.
Mary-Janes, as before
Smooth operator:
David Koma’s
considered cut-
outs create a dress
to really live in
This page: minidress,
£325, David Koma. Resin
earrings, £200, Marni

PATRICK DEMARCHELIER 197


198
Let there be
red: never
underestimate
the power of
scarlet. Victoria
Beckham’s dress
is a class act
Opposite: gabardine
dress, £1,650,
Victoria Beckham.
Earrings and halterneck
top, as before
Barbara
Casasola’s
hand-pleated
dress takes one
person days to
create. You’ll
love it forever
This page: pleated
satin dress, £1,124,
Barbara Casasola.
Silk skirt, £540, Marni.
Mary-Janes and socks,
as before

PATRICK DEMARCHELIER 199


Head girl: take
one oversized
headband and
fantastic plastic
earrings for an
accessories moment
at its most modern
White strapless wool
dress, £2,195, Stella
McCartney. Black leather
belt, £320. Leather bag,
£550. Both Marni.
Earrings and halterneck
top, as before

200
Take up the tempo
in Salvatore
Ferragamo’s
emerald and ochre
silk dress. Pair
Rag & Bone’s
Mary-Janes with a
peep of sock for a
fresh fashion beat
Silk-satin slip dress,
£5,115, Salvatore
Ferragamo. White pleated
silk skirt, £525, Barbara
Casasola. Halterneck
top, Mary-Janes and
socks, as before.
For stockists, all pages,
see Vogue Information

PATRICK DEMARCHELIER 201


Fendi’s abstract-art-
inspired printed
dress bubbles
up like a brilliant
new idea
Strapless padded wool
minidress, £1,960, Fendi.
Blanket bomber jacket,
from £860, Bjarne Melgaard,
at Bless. Hair: Duffy.
Make-up: Lucia Pieroni.
Nails: Jenni Draper.
Production: Sylvia Farago.
Location: Bryants Lane
Quarry, Bedfordshire. Set
design: Emma Roach. Digital
artwork: Tablet Retouch.
Model: Saskia de Brauw

202
tumble
town
Autumn’s free-thinking prints and textures
traverse uncharted territory – embrace your inner
radical and energise your wardrobe
Photographs by Harley Weir. Styling by Jane How

Scale new heights


in JW Anderson’s
knitted trouser-
and-top duo
Wool tunic, £510. Matching
trousers, to order. Both
JW Anderson. Vintage
boots, stylist’s own

203
For sartorial
drama it’s Simone
Rocha’s expert
hand that casts
modernity over
frothy ruffles and
furnishing flora
This page: satin and tulle
dress, £1,250. Goat-hair
brooch, £160. Both
Simone Rocha
As fine as sand:
Stella McCartney’s
snow-white
crocheted maxi
dress possesses
a poetic new-
season sensibility
Opposite: wool
crochet dress, £2,295,
Stella McCartney.
Vintage boots, as before

204 HARLEY WEIR


205
206 HARLEY WEIR
When it comes to
Céline’s jumbo
cuffs, there’s
nothing else for it:
reach for the sky
Opposite: wool sweater,
from £1,280. Embroidered
wool trousers, from
£3,690. Leather sneakers,
from £510. All Céline.
Beauty note: little is more
liberating than a pixie
crop. Create gentle
texture with Wella
Professionals Shimmer
Delight Spray, £9.30
A medley of
macramé,
shearling and
leather makes for
a dynamic texture
clash. With so
many possibilities,
why pick just one?
This page: cape, £4,800,
Sacai, at Feathers and
Joseph. Corset skirt, £65,
Wolford. Woven leather
shoes, £950, Céline

207
Doff your hat to Alber
Elbaz’s ability to
renew and refresh –
Lanvin’s embellished
coat and blown-up
baseball cap
perfect the art of
show-off fashion
This page: wool coat
embroidered with
paillettes, £4,885.
Felt hat with paillettes,
£820. Both Lanvin
I spy: Lucinda
Popp’s exuberant
textiles make
a mark on the
modernist wardrobe
Opposite: strapless wool/
cashmere jumpsuit, £2,985,
Lucinda Popp. Jewelled
woven leather heels,
£2,250, Céline

208 HARLEY WEIR


209
Joseph’s knits
are spun into
languid, luxurious
lengths – ideal for
hanging out in
This page: patchwork
wool sweater, £395.
Matching skirt, £395.
Both Joseph. Jewelled
heels, as before
A new-season
wardrobe awaits
and Calvin
Klein’s black
leather dress
makes a play for
pole position
Opposite: leather
sheath dress, £1,400,
Calvin Klein Collection.
Leather and wool blanket
jacket, from £860, Bjarne
Melgaard, at Bless.
Sneakers, as before

210 HARLEY WEIR


211
212 HARLEY WEIR
A quarry calls for
overalls – with
a luxurious twist,
of course. Hermès’s
are crafted in finest
leather. Layer
over a punchy tee
Opposite: leather
dungarees, £5,670, to
order, Hermès. Cotton
T-shirt, £70, Aries, at
Matchesfashion.com
Freewheelin’:
Missoni’s
fractured knit
will go the distance
this season
This page: asymmetric
knit dress, £710,
Missoni. Satin and
velvet headband,
£1,095, Stephen Jones.
Shoes, as before.
Beauty note: luminous
porcelain skin evokes
an equally radiant spirit.
Enhance with Mac Prep
& Prime Highlighter, £19.
For stockists, all pages,
see Vogue Information

213
For your eyes
only: Prada’s
candy-coloured
coat pinned with
jewels has a prim
appeal, but what
lies beneath?
This page: jersey coat,
£1,835. Plexiglass
and crystal brooch,
£505. Both Prada
“I would never
have dreamed
one day I would
be a Bond girl”
Opposite: black stretch-
leather jumpsuit,
£2,990, Jitrois. Earrings,
throughout, Léa’s own.
Hair: Sam McKnight.
Make-up: Val Garland.
Nails: Charlène Coquard.
Set design: Jean Michel
Bertin. Production:
Brachfeld Paris. Digital
artwork: D Touch

214
The spy who
LOVED ME
Léa Seydoux – disarmingly alluring, devastatingly
beautiful and dressed to kill – claims to be an unlikely
Bond girl. Giles Coren remains unconvinced
Photographs by Craig McDean.
Styling by Kate Phelan

215
216
Knockout: play
to this season’s
fetishist fashion
fantasy and
recline in Pam
Hogg’s subversive
wet-look catsuit
Black PVC catsuit,
£550, Pam Hogg. Black
leather courts, £425,
Christian Louboutin

In Bond’s world, a bit of postgraduate swotting doesn’t


disqualify a girl from being a lethal sex kitten as well
CRAIG MCDEAN 217
men are assumed/instructed to want 2013 Palme d’Or-winning, lesbian
– is a girl half his age, in a bikini, coming-of-age movie; the most
with a nice bottom, perfect hair and controversial did-they-or-didn’t-they,
a stripper’s name: Honey Ryder, girl-on-girl arthouse movie romp

t
Pussy Galore, Plenty O’Toole, of all time. She shakes my hand.
Xenia Onatopp, Christmas Jones… So does her dialect coach, who is
Once introduced to the audience, going to sit in and help with any
the Bond girl’s job is then to get wet, language issues.
get frisky and get killed, ideally in as We sit, and Seydoux asks very
sexy a way as possible (asphyxiated quietly for a Diet Coke. She talks so
naked by gold paint, drowned naked softly, I often can’t hear what she is
in oil, eaten by fish, shot with a saying, and at the same time absent-
torpedo…). It is certainly not what mindedly pushes my Dictaphone
Emily Davison had in mind when round so that it is facing me not her.
she threw herself – fully clothed – to She does this frequently throughout
her death under that horse. the afternoon, so that my tape is
Every now and again there has mostly of a middle-aged man talking
been a nod to modernising the “girl”, loudly and a woman’s voice barely
but it is only ever the paying of heard. A lot like a Bond movie.
lip service. Even in the most recent She looks like Scarlett Johansson
movie, Skyfall, you will recall that but with that Vanessa Paradis/
the exploited sex worker shagged by Brigitte Bardot gap between her
Bond is shot dead soon afterwards front teeth. Where do Parisian
with an accompanying one-liner. actresses get that gap from? Is it
Then Judi Dench’s M is killed some childhood procedure they are
because she is a daft old bat who forced to undergo, like foot-binding?
can’t look after herself, and the only She has on a fake-fur jacket that
young woman in the movie who opens to reveal black lace underneath,
doesn’t shag James, Naomie Harris’s though I avert my eyes for decency’s
Moneypenny, is rewarded for her sake so can’t give you many details.
wo hours with restraint with a job as his secretary. Nor can I tell you much about the
a Bond girl. You can’t help giggling. So don’t blame me if I am feeling film. The clip I have been allowed to
The very idea of a “Bond girl” is so a little unreconstructed as I sit in see under cloak-and-dagger secrecy
loaded with sex and submissiveness the vertiginous marble bar of one of worthy of MI6 (well, almost) features
and mid-20th-century double- those cavernous international hotels a stunning Day of the Dead carnival
entendre that merely talking about one encounters so often in Bond set piece in Mexico, a typically
meeting one is impossible to do with movies but so rarely in life, waiting awesome car chase through Rome
a straight face. Especially when it’s between Jaguar and Aston Martin
in a hotel. models not as yet unveiled to the
But don’t blame me for that. The Bond girl’s job is public, and a half-dressed Seydoux
Blame Ian Fleming, Albert “Cubby”
Broccoli, Sean Connery, Roger
to get wet, get frisky and seen through a net curtain, kneeling
on a bed, saying to Bond, “If you
Moore and all the other sweaty- get killed, ideally in as come near me, I will kill you.”
palmed old geezers who have spent Director Sam Mendes, back for
two-thirds of a century reducing half sexy a way as possible a second go after the record-
of the human race into a pneumatic breaking success of Skyfall, has
sex poppet every couple of years, so for the newest Bond girl, Spectre’s made Seydoux’s character, Madeleine
as to find a role for her in a James Léa Seydoux, who is late. Ten Swann, a doctor, signalling that she
Bond film that will not significantly minutes, 20, 30… has a serious role to play – but then
challenge or threaten our hero or the “Drink?” asks a bow-tied barman, Christmas Jones was a doctor. In
international manhood he represents, sidling over. Bond’s world, a bit of postgraduate
or stretch him in any way beyond “Vodka martini, shaken not swotting doesn’t disqualify a girl from
the, er, obvious. stirred,” I think. But I say, “Water, being a lethal sex kitten as well.
Since the early Fifties, James Bond please, tap is fine,” because I am Seydoux is exhausted. She finished
has represented the pre-eminent working, and don’t want to be all six months’ filming at Pinewood
fantasy of what a man’s life ought to sweaty and incoherent when she Studios and in Mexico, Austria,
be like. Countless millions of men makes her entrance. Italy and Morocco only the Saturday
have depended on Bond to tell them At that moment there is a ripple before, and started promotion on
how to dress, what to drive, what to of activity at the door and I know the Monday. In between was the
eat, what to drink, how to talk and that Ms Seydoux has finally arrived. wrap party. Not glamorous, she says.
what sort of woman to desire. My heart races. The last time I saw But she went because she felt so
And the answer to this final her face it was rising from between close to everybody.
question has never really changed. the legs of Adèle Exarchopoulos “It’s a big experience,” she says. “It’s
What Bond wants – and thus what in Blue Is the Warmest Colour, the huge. It’s my biggest part in a very

218
big film. I would never have dreamed fight against something and against
I would one day be a Bond girl…” I would say psychological conflicts.
She tails off. I’m surprised. She is a It’s about, like, how to find your own
serious actress from one of France’s freedom, how to get to...”
great film dynasties (her grandfather, So she’s not just a decoration for
Jérôme Seydoux, is the chairman Bond’s arm? “No, no, no. Anyway
of Pathé, her great-uncle, Nicolas I don’t mind the cliché of the Bond
Seydoux, is the chairman of girl. But Madeleine, she is very
Gaumont and her father is CEO different. And to choose me as a
of the French wireless company Bond girl, it’s a choice. A statement.
Parrot) and she has won massive I’m not the typical James Bond girl.”
prizes for grown-up roles. Did she I wonder what she means.
really feel so strongly? “I cried at the Seydoux is beautiful and exotic with
end of the film. My last shot, I cried. an amazing body. That seems pretty
I’ve never cried at the end of a film.” typical to me. She also professes a
It must have been less demanding vulnerability in life that is key to
than Blue, which was so harrowing any good Bond girl. While talking
that she subsequently said she was about her other new film, The
made to feel “like a prostitute”? Lobster, a dystopian vision of a
“Less demanding in the character? world in which single people are
No. It was very intense. The punished for their failure to love by
characters are much more strong. being turned into animals, which
It’s not only like a blockbuster now. also won an award at Cannes, she
It’s much more than that.” describes her fear of modernity. Above left: Seydoux
with the Palme d’Or
She is earnest and keen, not at all “It is a dehumanised world we live for Blue Is the Warmest
flirty. She huddles herself in her in,” she says. “I don’t like modernity. Colour. Above: with
jacket and twinkles. She giggles. But I don’t have television or the internet her Spectre co-star
her comfort seems to derive from the at home. The internet scares me. Monica Bellucci at this
year’s Baftas. Far left:
proximity of her dialect coach, who I can’t drive a car. That is why wearing Miu Miu at
I do this job. This is the Cannes premiere
of The Lobster. Left:
So she’s not just a why I became an
actress. So that people
at the Elysée Palace
last October. Below:
decoration for Bond’s will take care of me.
To be an actress is a
promoting The Lobster
in Prada. Below left:
arm? “No, no. Anyway, refuge. You are taken the face of Prada
Candy. Bottom:
everywhere, stay in
I don’t mind the cliché” wonderful hotels,
with Daniel Craig on
the set of Spectre
everyone looks after
has clearly become a confidante. It’s you, buys you clothes, food…”
almost as if she’s talking to her, not And nobody looks after a girl
me. It doesn’t feel like shyness, but it better than James Bond. Does he at
might be. She talks at length about least try to get his leg over?
her admiration for Michael Jackson “Yes, of course,” she laughs. “We
(“I am a huge fan”), how she’s read kiss. It’s a James Bond film. It is a
his biography over and over, and is passionate kiss.”
impressed by how someone so shy “Yes, but do you go all the way?”
and quiet in daily life could be such “I am always with him, yes.”
an extrovert performer. Seydoux’s dialect instructor
She’s not especially impressed explains the confusion to her.
with my feminist reading of “Yes, of course I do that!” says
Skyfall either. Here I am bending Seydoux, and giggles. “But it’s not
over backwards to be a modern, like Blue Is the Warmest Colour!”
reconstructed man (possibly even She falls about laughing.
overdoing it a little) and I’m “And are you still alive at the end
BARCROFT MEDIA; GETTY; GOFF PHOTOS; REX FEATURES

coming up against what I probably of the film?” I ask, wondering how


knew all along: most women love a the film will do away with her.
Bond girl. They don’t care about the “Yes, of course, here I am!” she says.
politics. They like how she looks, I explain that I mean the character.
what she wears. Léa is no different. Does she live or does she die?
She does not agree with me that “Oh, she is alive at the end,” says
Skyfall was a sexist film, nor is this Seydoux. “She is very alive. Probably
one, she insists. more alive than even she was before.”
“Spectre, it’s more about the Well, that’s a start, I suppose. Q
women. In the way that they have to “Spectre” is released on October 26

219
Licence to thrill:
Versace’s slashed-
to-the-navel
neckline and
flared silhouette
is cut with the
power to melt the
hardest of hearts
This page: black silk-
cady jumpsuit, £2,245,
Versace. Black patent-
leather heels, £425,
Christian Louboutin
“I don’t like
modernity. I don’t
have a television
or the internet.
That is why I am
an actress.
So people will
take care of me”
Opposite: quilted silk
dress, £500, Max Mara.
Crystal flower brooch,
£300, Prada. Satin
and tulle bra, £98,
Fifi Chachnil. Patent-
leather courts, £425,
Christian Louboutin

220 CRAIG MCDEAN


221
Most women
love a Bond
girl. They don’t
care about
the politics.
They like how
she looks, what
she wears

222 CRAIG MCDEAN


Unzipped:
take leave of
convention and
opt for the after-
dark appeal of
body-skimming
black leather
Opposite and
this page: black
stretch-leather
jumpsuit, £2,990,
Jitrois. Patent-leather
heels, as before

223
224 CRAIG MCDEAN
“Spectre is
more about the
women. It’s about
how to find your
own freedom”
Opposite: black wool-
crêpe jacket, £2,025.
Black leather jumpsuit,
£2,535. Both Saint
Laurent by Hedi Slimane
Perfectly poised:
Christopher
Kane’s baby-pink
pencil skirt,
rendered in
satin and lace,
has a beguiling
Bond-girl charm
This page: wool/
cashmere Aran
cardigan, £790.
Satin midi-skirt,
£585. Crystal heart
brooch, £130. All
Christopher Kane.
Crystal flower brooch
and bra, as before.
For stockists, all pages,
see Vogue Information
into the
WOODS

It’s all change for the enchanting Liv Tyler – styled here by her friend
Kate Moss. She talks to Sarah Harris about the new man (and baby) in her life,
house-hunting in London and her unexpectedly dark television debut
Photographs by Venetia Scott
226
Call on a stately,
Grey Gardens
mood. Your
modern update?
The enveloping
faux fur should
now be daringly
worn with
bare legs
Opposite: faux-fur coat,
£295, Whistles
What could be
more fitting for
an autumnal
country wander
than Erdem’s
dappled florals?
This page: silk dress,
£2,575, Erdem.
Hair: James Brown.
Make-up: Miranda
Joyce. Production:
Raw Files. Printing:
Daren Catlin at Bayeux

227
228
Channel
the queen
of pin-ups:
porcelain skin,
a jet-black
camisole and
scarlet lip
will never go
out of style
Opposite: silk and lace
camisole, from £230.
Matching knickers,
from £125. Both from
a selection, Kiki de
Montparnasse
Vilshenko’s
delicate print
revives the
suburban
romance of
the day dress
(Liv’s son Sailor
thoroughly
approves)
This page: silk dress,
£1,100, Vilshenko

VENETIA SCOTT 229


day after her Vogue shoot, styled by you love is either developing,
Kate Moss. On that: “I spent the producing or directing TV. The
entire day in my underwear, I quality of characters, especially for

D
metaphorically and literally felt women, is amazing,” she enthuses.
naked,” she laughs, over dim sum “They’re complex, layered and
and sea-bass sashimi. interesting.” She started to look at
Liv – actress daughter of Aerosmith projects and came across The Leftovers,
frontman Steve Tyler and former and approached Lindelof for the role
model Bebe Buell – started modelling – surprisingly, he needed some
at 13 years old. “Back then, I didn’t convincing. “He didn’t understand
love being told what to do. That was how I could play the part, because I
hard for me as a rebellious little New was already ‘Liv Tyler’ and he wanted
York City girl, especially coming an unknown, and also because people
from the parents that I had. It wasn’t think of me as sweet and ethereal. But
o you remember that I wasn’t obedient, but I’m not then he watched me act a scene and
that moment, back in childhood, great with too much authority. But he said, ‘Wow, Liv Tyler is pissed!’ He
when during a slumber party two it’s fun for me now as a woman.” saw this anger in my interpretation of
friends would be chatting 19 to the More so when the stylist is one of Meg and so I got the part, for which,
dozen and then suddenly one would her best friends. Liv has known Kate by the way, I look like shit: ugly, baggy
drift off to sleep without any Moss since she was 14; they met in white clothes and no make-up.”
warning? That is what has happened New York in a circle that included As a child, Liv sang and danced
now. Liv Tyler has fallen asleep next Mario Sorrenti, and she describes around the house “like a showgirl”
to me, purring like a content kitten. the supermodel as one of her original and thought she would grow up to
We’re not having a slumber party – girlfriends. “Kate is a magical be a singer. Certainly, she had an
although I imagine she would be fun unicorn. She was doing all these appreciation for her father’s music. “I
in a slumber-party situation – we’re poses for me and I was trying to remember I was 16 and Liv slept over
at London’s Bulgari Spa getting mimic her. I love how she doesn’t at my house,” says her close friend
facials and pedis. Liv’s idea. And give a fuck, she just moves in these Kate Hudson. “In the morning, we
it isn’t that our conversation has free ways, and of course what I was decided to get breakfast down the
sedated her – at least, I don’t think it street. I had this really old convertible
has – it’s more that she got to bed at
3am last night after drinks and
“Liv has seen a lot of car, and one of her dad’s songs came
on the radio. This was the first year
dinner with Tabitha Simmons and life. She doesn’t suffer we’d known each other, and I didn’t
friends at Chiltern Firehouse, really know how she would react. I
coupled with the fact that she was up fools gladly. In a street think a lot of kids, when they come
at 6am this morning tending to her
sons, 10-year-old Milo and her
fight, I’d definitely want from that, try to hide it or downplay
it – I know I did. She turned it up so
newborn, Sailor. And then, out of her on my side” loud – it was ‘Janie’s Got a Gun’ – and
nowhere: “Oh my god, I just woke she just had so much joy and love for
myself up with my own snore!” For doing didn’t look anything like what her dad’s music. I was thinking, there
the record, it wasn’t a “snore”, it was she was doing. I felt like a total is so much freedom in this girl!”
more like something out of a Disney amateur.” (The worldwide contract “I remember taking a call from
movie, and actually I’m surprised with Givenchy as the face of its Very an interviewer when I was really
there weren’t bluebirds and butterflies Irresistible fragrance that lasted 10 young,” says Liv, “and they asked me,
circling the moment she woke. years would say otherwise.) ‘What do you want to be when you
Liv Tyler – as tall as you imagine Her latest role is a departure from grow up?’ and I said, ‘Excuse me, can
and seemingly unaware of her own the big screen, and sees her starring in you hold on?’ I put the phone on my
beauty – is blessed with one of those HBO’s addictive hit television series lap and asked my mum. She said,
faces immune to ageing. At 38, that The Leftovers, a dark and depressing ‘Baby, you’re going to be an actress.’
bee-stung pout is as voluptuous as it drama based on the acclaimed novel And so that’s what I said. It was such
was when she was 18, her fair, dewy by Tom Perrotta and co-created by a weird moment, and not like in a
complexion is as luminous, her hair Damon Lindelof (of Lost). Set in stage-mum way, it was like she could
as enviably glossy and long as it has New York, it follows the lives of those see my future with a crystal ball.”
ever been, and those piercing blue left behind three years after the After appearing as a runaway
eyes not in the least bit jaded – even sudden disappearance of two per cent schoolgirl in Aerosmith’s “Crazy”
on only a few hours’ sleep. of the world’s population. Liv plays music video, Liv was cast in the
We met earlier in the day for Meg, a troubled woman struggling to film Empire Records aged 16, before
lunch at E&O in Notting Hill. Tyler come to terms with the aftermath, making her name two years later as
has spent a lot of time in the who runs away to join a cult called the lead in Bernardo Bertolucci’s
neighbourhood lately, thanks to the Guilty Remnant. coming-of-age romance Stealing
Sailor’s father, David Gardner, It’s her television debut. “TV never Beauty – “If there is a moment in my
the west London-dwelling sports used to be such a big deal in the US, life that I’d like to relive, it would
agent/best friend of David Beckham, but now the quality of scripts, the be that Tuscan summer,” she says.
and the new man in her life. It’s the directors… Every big director that Blockbusters such as Armageddon

230
and the Lord of the Rings trilogy brownstone in New York’s West was no crib and no clothes, partly
followed, and she’s hardly stopped Village – when she was just 23. “It’s because she doesn’t believe in baby
working since – until Milo got too big the smartest investment I ever made.” showers. “I’m a bit superstitious; I
to take on set. “Until The Leftovers I Regardless, it wasn’t a walk in the don’t even like to talk about the name
was struggling,” she admits. “I always park. Each floor was a two-bedroom until the baby arrives.” Her sister Mia
wanted to be a mother and I wanted apartment, and so she led a full met her at the hospital and she called
to be a present mother, and if you’re historic renovation with the then their father, who was in Nashville. He
shooting a movie it means you’re gone little-known architect Ben Pentreath left his house right away, booked a
for months at a time. So I was trying (who went on to design the Duke and flight en route to the airport and
to find my way into something that Duchess of Cambridge’s Kensington arrived in time to cut the cord. Sailor’s
I wanted to do, plus I had already Palace home). At 26 she married premature arrival meant that he had
lived this lifetime of a career and British singer Royston Langdon of to stay in hospital for two further
I was wondering where I fit in now.” Spacehog (they divorced in 2008), weeks. “I left there not being pregnant
and at 27 she gave birth to Milo. “I and without a baby. It was so weird.”
er desire to did everything early. Even though Being apart from loved ones is par

H prioritise home
life over career
moves is arguably
a result of her own
less conventional
childhood. In 1988, at the age of 11,
she discovered that musician Todd
Rundgren, the man who raised her,
wasn’t her biological father; it was
I was only in my mid-twenties, I had
been working so much for so many
years, I felt older and ready to settle.”
Speaking of which: “Sorry, I have
to check on the baby,” she apologises,
speed-texting a message home to
David. “This is so rude, I’m so sorry.”
(Tyler is a stickler for manners.
Her grandmother Dorothea Johnson
for the course lately and it can be
tricky to navigate, especially when it
comes to logistics – from the menial
(what everyone is having for dinner
and where) to the complex (figuring
out schooling for her sons). David
is based in London, where he also has
a son, Grey, with former wife Davinia
Taylor, while Milo’s father lives in
Steve Tyler instead. “My parents worked as an etiquette teacher for 40 New York, where Liv and Milo spend
weren’t around a lot; they were very years. The two of them even penned the majority of their time. “I feel like
young – my mother was only 23 when a book together, Modern Manners: I’ve been living out of a suitcase for
she had me – and so they probably Tools to Take You to the Top.) way too long,” she says. Although
weren’t fully equipped with all the Although it was hairdresser James they are currently looking for a bigger
tools they needed to be great parents.” Brown who engineered the romance home in London, Liv will always flit
“Liv has seen a lot of life,” says between Liv and David, she first met between London and New York.
the musician Michael Stipe, who him via Kate Moss – “3 million years “I love this gypsy lifestyle,” she
first met her in New York when she ago” – at the CFDA awards. They shrugs. “I love my job and I’m grateful
was 11. “She doesn’t suffer fools struck up a relationship last year and I’m able to make money this way, but
gladly,” he continues. “In a street she fell pregnant with Sailor (who is to me, success is based on how well
fight I’d definitely want her on my named after Nicolas Cage’s character my family is doing.” There is no doubt
side, she’s intensely loyal, deeply in the David Lynch movie Wild at she is homely. “Some of my favourite
grounded and she can cuss like a Heart) soon after. times spent with Liv are relaxing and
sailor. Whenever I think of Liv, I Both her children were surprise laughing by the fire when she comes
think of her laugh. She has the best, pregnancies – but Sailor’s arrival was over to our house in the country,” says
biggest, most genuine kind of hee- the biggest surprise of all, in more Stella McCartney. “When the kids
ways than one; he was six weeks are finally in bed and it’s girl time.”
“I did everything early. early and weighed less than 5lb
when he was born. “It was crazy
“I have a feeling she’ll be in the
rocking chair next to me when we hit
By my mid-twenties, I had because David and I had been living 90, and she’ll still be cracking naughty
in this beautiful whirlwind. It was jokes,” says Helena Christensen, a
been working so much intense, all of us wanting to be friend since they met at a party in
together as much as possible, and I the late Nineties. Now Christensen
for so many years, I felt wanted to nest. I hadn’t been passes on soup recipes (Liv likes to
older and ready to settle” pregnant for 10 years, and so to feel
that again was amazing; but I just
cook) and advice on schools.
I ask Liv what her dream day would
haw belly laugh of anyone I know.” had this feeling, I knew he was going be and she answers without hesitation,
If anyone is ripe for going off the to come early.” David was working “Twenty-four hours with my family,
rails, Liv Tyler fits the profile: in Asia and had a flight booked to where none of us have to be on phone
rock-star pedigree, model mum who New York on February 12. He sent calls, we’d all be totally present, all
posed for Playboy, child star, dramatic her flowers every day, counting down together, totally basic, normal.”
parental plot twist and friends with the five days before his arrival. “I got Our afternoon at an end, I drop
all the right/wrong people, but her flowers for five, four, three, two… her off at a house-viewing in west
image as a Hollywood wild child is but we never got to the last bunch London. She steps out of the car and
misplaced. Work has always given her because I went into labour on the look on the estate agent’s face
the discipline to stay focused, but it February 11. I think Sailor thought says it all. No, Liv Tyler wouldn’t
also accelerated her maturity. it was the countdown to his birth know a thing about being normal. Q
Some Liv Tyler milestones: she and so that was that. It was crazy Season two of “The Leftovers” is on
bought her first home – a five-storey and scary.” Nothing was ready. There Sky Atlantic from October 4

231
The suggestion of
a nightgown calls for
an undone approach.
Flowing, teased
hair will do nicely
This page: camisole, as before
Flex the new
sweater-girl look
– a candy-pink
mohair does “good
girl” with an edge
Opposite: mohair sweater,
£310, Filles à Papa, at
Browns. Knickers, as before.
For stockists, all pages,
see Vogue Information

232 VENETIA SCOTT


“Kate Moss
is a magical
unicorn.
She was
doing all
these poses
for me and
I was trying
to mimic
her – I felt
like a total
amateur”

233
234
Murder,
she spoke
As host of Serial, the true-crime podcast sensation of
last year, Sarah Koenig had the ears of tens of millions.
Tom Shone meets her at her Long Island home and
attempts to uncover the secrets of season two
Photographs by Joss McKinley

his is where the magic alone in the car, thereby exonerating Adnan

 T happens,” says Sarah


Koenig, with more than a
smidgen of irony, as she
opens the door of the
wooden shed at the
bottom of her garden in Long Island’s Sag
Harbor. You have to stoop slightly to enter,
and once in you could almost touch the
walls with outstretched arms. Against one
of murder, then chances were they were
another Serial addict.
“The kids are constantly asking me if
I’m famous,” says Koenig, as we walk back
up to the house, an old shingle cottage,
the outside of which is scattered with
assorted family debris: a clock awaiting
repair, a skateboard, a pair of bikes heaped
on top of each other. “They’re like, ‘Are
leans an old pub sign that once belonged you famous, Mommy? Are you famous?
to Koenig’s mother, depicting a fox. At And if you are, then why does everything
the back hangs a large map of the world seem exactly the same? Why are you the
drawn by her 12-year-old daughter, who is same pain-in-the-ass mother that we had
away at camp this week along with her last month?’”
brother, which means that Koenig has been Wearing a denim skirt, white linen shirt
free to work. On a small desk sits a notepad and Birkenstocks – adjunct-professor chic
SARAH WEARS SHIRT, EQUIPMENT, AT NET-A-PORTER.COM. SKIRT, LEMLEM, AT MYTHERESA.COM. JEWELLERY, HER OWN

covered with scribbles; on the wall next – Koenig is an easy blend of self-deprecating
to it hangs a small blackboard on which humour and intellectual rigour, the kind
a series of words are spelled out: “Carol. of person whose high standards, combined
August. Garage.” with an overriding sense of fairness, lead her
“I should probably get rid of this,” says to be a little tough on herself, you suspect.
Koenig, rubbing out the words on the By nature she is something of a pessimist.
blackboard. “Maybe I’ll remove this as well,” A few weeks before the first season of Serial
she says, turning over the notepad – the only aired, she wrote to around 20 family and
clues to the story she has been working friends, saying: “You know that case I’ve
on for the past few months, and which been talking your ear off about for the last
will form the basis of season two of the year, I’ve been doing this podcast about it,
massively popular podcast Serial. Season one it’s launching October whatever, I hope you
“We’ve got this big
megaphone now, and investigated the murder of a Baltimore teen, guys will listen. If it sucks, we’ll just never
I don’t want to waste turning the podcast from nerd curio to full- speak of it again. We’ll pretend it never
it…” Sarah Koenig, blown national obsession. If, during the happened, delete it, goodbye.”
photographed outside
the shed in her garden
autumn of 2014, you saw a friend looking Since its broadcast, the first season has
in Sag Harbor, where a little raccoon-eyed and sleep-deprived, been downloaded over 90 million times. It
she scripts her unable to talk about much except the is the Citizen Kane of podcasts – Koenig
podcasts. Hair and likelihood that the call to Nisha from aced the form on her first try, which perhaps
make-up: Erin Green.
Sittings editor: Adnan’s phone on January 13 was, in fact, a accounts for the blend of naivety and
Lauren Blane butt dial, which means that Jay was probably artfulness that went into its construction. >

235
“I thought that no one would listen. I was issue is the closest I am willing to guess, purely as entertainment, as a game almost.”
a little under-the-radar project. I was totally though as we continue our tour of her She was unprepared, too, for the online
fine with that,” she says, as we sit down to house, I keep my eyes peeled for clues. scrutiny her own motives came in for,
lunch in the shade of overgrown ferns and Upstairs, in one of the bedrooms, Koenig particularly after episode six, which ended
hydrangeas. The house itself stands out from points out a cupboard holding her husband’s with a small disagreement between her and
the clapboard perfection of its neighbours by shirts and sweaters, into which she crawls if the suddenly suspicious Syed – calling, as
dint of its air of messy, lived-in bohemianism; she needs to record an interview. “I did ever, from the penitentiary payphone – that
the first thing she does upon picking me up an interview two days ago and I sat here sounded to some like a lover’s tiff. “That
from the bus stop in town is merrily decry and I had a big blanket to muffle sound.” was probably the most sexist thing I heard,”
the Wall Street “assholes” who have invaded “Does that help with the air of informality?” says Koenig. “‘Oh, she’s got a crush on
the area with their SUVs. Koenig has lived I ask, thinking of the show’s signature Adnan.’ I felt like, really? Is that where we
around here since her English, Tanzanian- candour. “No, it was uncomfortable. I would are? Definitely our relationship is weird and
much rather be in an office or hard to define. It’s a personal relationship.
“There is obviously pressure. a proper studio. It’s just
because I have this weird life,”
It’s not truly professional. I wouldn’t say it’s
a friendship. There is too much mistrust and
Everyone is like, ‘You’re she says. During season one
she spent so much time
weirdness. If people were picking up on the
complicatedness of our relationship, the fact
never going to top that’” working in the basement of
her house in Pennsylvania,
that that comes through in the podcast is on
purpose. I wanted people to hear that.”
born mother left her father, a famed where her husband Ben teaches literature She knows she is unlikely to top the first
advertising copywriter, for the novelist and and they spend half the year, that she season for sheer perfect-storm congruence
Paris Review co-founder Peter Matthiessen, emerged one evening to find her children of elements: murder, race, high school, the
whose books crowd Koenig’s shelves. Pictures had set the table for three – not four. weird chemistry between her and Syed.
hang on the walls in higgledy-piggledy “They just stopped asking, ‘Are you coming “There is obviously pressure. Everyone is
fashion. A tin kettle sits on the stove. up for dinner?’ It was sort of funny, but it like, ‘You’re never going to top that.’ Believe
A New York Times lazily spreads over the wasn’t, let’s play a joke on Mommy, it was me, no one is more aware than me that I’m
breakfast table. You would never guess that like, ‘Why bother?’” she winces. “The fact not going to top that. That’s fine. I think, to
this is the nerve centre of the most eagerly was, I was working every day, sometimes me, more of the pressure is that we’ve got
awaited journalistic serial since Dickens 10-, 12-hour days. Not every day; I would this big megaphone now and I want to
visited Newgate Prison. Naturally, Koenig have collapsed. Then just a lot of anxiety, make sure I don’t waste it. We’ve picked
can divulge none of the new season’s secrets. too. Not sleeping, having dreams about it.” a very ambitious story and I want to make
“Nothing,” she says. “Sorry, I can’t.” sure I do it right, not so much because I’m
“You can confirm that it’s not a crime his sense of intimate personal worried about the audience but I want to do
story,” I say – something her publicist had
let slip a few days earlier.
“Here’s what we can confirm, it’s a very,
very different story. That’s all I can tell you.”
(Since our interview, leaks online reported
that it would focus on an American soldier
held hostage by the Taliban. This was
T connection was a huge part
of what made the show a
success. With her colloquial
asides (“diss”, a “dick move”)
and effortless grasp of teen speak – all
carefully scripted, down to the last hmm,
like and whatever – Koenig didn’t sound
right by the story. It’s a really good story so
I don’t want to fuck it up. Which is possible.”
She will probably figure in the story less
than she did in season one, she says. “I
wouldn’t do unless it serves the story, and it
just might not. We’ll see.” After a few more
attempts to get the story out of her, I give
unconfirmed by the Serial team.) like a 45-year-old journalist working a up, comforting myself with the thought that
Did the story come to her, I ask, as a story. She sounded like your smartest friend there could be nothing more Koenigesque
result of the first show’s success? She smiles giving you the low-down on something than to conclude with what I don’t know.
sympathetically: she understands what it is happening right now, involving players you Koenig offers me a lift back to the bus stop
like to be a journalist facing a shut door. could drop in on tomorrow, if you wanted. en route to the beach. She’s a huge ocean
“I’m sorry, I hate to be coy and I feel like It was a kind of journalistic selfie. In a lover, goes there to swim and read every day
we’re playing a 20 Questions thing that sense she unsolved the case and handed if she can. “It is a purely physical experience.
I don’t want to do. I would say it comes out the conclusions over to us. No wonder the It’s like sight and sound and smell and
of the interest of the producers of Serial, internet went wild. Fans held listening cold water,” she says as we climb into her
truly. It’s something we’re all interested in. parties to take in the show, they ran battered old car, a dusty VW Jetta.
SARAH WEARS DRESS, JOSEPH, AT NET-A-PORTER.COM. JEWELLERY, HER OWN

And have been for a while.” She will say, timelines of the crime on websites to pick “The rest of the place has gone to hell, but
though, that her team is working on both holes in the state’s case; formed impassioned the ocean is still the ocean. Every year I’m
season two and season three, due to run in discussion threads on Reddit arguing for like, are you going to stick around? Should
quick succession, and yet she cautions, the innocence of the imprisoned 19-year- we get rid of our house? It’s so expensive, all
“We’ll see where that goes. I’m not convinced old, Adnan Syed, at the story’s centre. these horrible people everywhere, the traffic,
that’s going to hold, but we’ll see.” “To have people watching so closely – ugh. It’s so… Then I’m just like, ‘Ocean!’
Given that This American Life, Serial’s so closely, it turned out, making their own Where am I going to find that ocean? It’s
parent show, has investigated everything cellphone-tower maps and shit,” she says. here. It’s right here. My son goes with me a
from the politics of New York’s street vendors “We were all like, ‘You have a lot of time. lot lately. Yesterday he said, ‘I love coming to
to a 10-month battle that one of the Maybe you need a job or something…’” the beach.’ I said, ‘Oh yeah? Why?’ He said,
producers had with her cellphone company She laughs. “People were also speculating ‘Because you don’t have to think about
which had overcharged her $946.36, this or posting people’s personal information anything else.’ I was like, ‘Exactly.’” Q
doesn’t exactly narrow it down. Personalised, and all that. There is good and bad. It’s Season two of “Serial” will be available to
deep-bore examination of a topical social upsetting to me that people treated it download at Serialpodcast.org later this year

236 JOSS McKINLEY


“I thought that
no one would listen.
I was a little under-the-
radar project. I was
totally fine with that,”
says Koenig of the
first season of Serial
podcasts. It has been
downloaded more
than 90 million times

237
the
legacy
On the eve of a new Chanel
exhibition, Alexandra
Shulman meets the man
who inherited the magic
and mythology of that name
– and made it his own.
Portraits by Karl Lagerfeld

COURTESY CHANEL/FRANÇOIS KOLLAR

238
“I never ask myself
questions. I try to find
answers. It’s a very
pretentious line, no?” Karl
Lagerfeld, in a self-portrait.
Opposite: Coco Chanel
photographed in her suite
at the Ritz in Paris, 1937

239
or three weeks in of endorsement and repartee. Like a human specifically designed look which will

F
October, London’s echo, she amplifies his curt pronouncements, simultaneously show off the diamond
Saatchi Gallery will projecting them into the room and back to jewellery they will wear – from a re-edition
undergo a personality visitors like myself or, today, the constant of the only fine-jewellery collection Coco
change, morphing from parade of actresses and models presenting Chanel ever made, seen once in 1932 and
a clinical, white-walled, themselves to Karl for the final verdict. then dismantled. The show is a typical Karl
contemporary-art venue It is Lagerfeld, with his seemingly concept, cannily and theatrically combining
into the richly textured unquenchable energy, who has consistently everything he needs to achieve – publicity
world of Coco Chanel with Mademoiselle raised the bar for fashion shows, not only for the exhibition, an early viewing of the
Privé, an exhibition of the original designer’s creating ever-larger visual spectacles but jewellery, a whole autumn couture collection
stylish orbit. Chanel, who died in 1971, also adding more to the calendar, such as and a theatrical spectacular that will be
was the woman who created the template Chanel’s Métiers d’Art – an annual tribute shared by the relatively small couture
for both the business and the lifestyle that to the rich craftsmanship of the house held audience via social media to take it global.
so many of today’s designers wish to in a different city each autumn – and the The card-motif carpet, the Chanel chips, the
emulate. Her hugely successful creations – travelling cruise shows such as that held in roulette wheel, even Chanel slot machines…
the neat bouclé tweed jackets, the braided Seoul in May. Now other houses have All are heady Instagram fodder, and that’s
leather- and chain-handled quilted bags, followed suit, to the extent that there is before Julianne Moore, Lara Stone, Kristen
the double-C logo, the famous perfumes scarcely a month when journalists are not Stewart, Vanessa Paradis and Rita Ora walk
(the list goes on and on) still exist in ever required to travel around the world to an in and take their seats pour faire leurs jeux.
more profitable quantities today. And her His mother, Lagerfeld says, was a gambler.
glamorous, extravagant existence – with His father would buy houses in different
whole mornings spent at maquillage in districts of Germany in order to prevent her
her permanent suite at the Ritz, exquisite gambling because it was illegal to gamble
homes, wealthy lovers and legendarily where you lived. At one point he liked
immaculate entertaining – has become part casinos himself (he spends time in Monaco,
of the compelling mythology which supports one of the world’s gambling capitals), but he
this astoundingly successful fashion house. never visits them now. “They have changed.
Since 1983 the Chanel staples have not Now they are sloppy. You get the feeling the
only continued to be produced but have people there have to pay the rent with what
flourished under the creative direction of a they win,” he says. There will be none of
ponytailed German male with a penchant that feeling in tomorrow’s Chanel Casino
for high starched collars, Chrome Hearts where the celebrity gamblers have been
rings, Givenchy and Dior Homme jackets, vetted by Lagerfeld. Several are the children
opaque black sunglasses and vintage Suzanne of women he has collaborated with for many
Belperron diamond tiepins: Karl Lagerfeld. years – Violette, Ines de la Fressange’s
Flip back to July and it is the night before daughter, whom he presents with a new
Chanel’s couture show. Paris is boiling hot – iPod after her fitting (“She has not the same
Keira Knightley, photographed on the
still 36C at nearly 8pm – and Rue Cambon, mirrored stairway of 31 Rue Cambon, pocket money”), or Lily-Rose Depp, the
where in 1910 Coco opened her first Chanel wearing a Chanel haute couture dress 16-year-old daughter of Vanessa Paradis
Modes store, and which remains the and Johnny Depp, who has just fronted a
epicentre of the house, is lined with exotic destination to see a single, lavish, Chanel eyewear campaign and who comes
chauffeur-driven cars with the Chanel logo publicity-generating fashion show. Asked in to kiss him goodbye in a skimpy cotton
in their windows, dropping off and collecting whether he feels this proliferation of vest and jeans, as tiny and kittenish as her
the models and actresses who are attending activity – with the accompanying demands mother was. Others are names of the
final fittings for the next day’s show. on designers to create more and more – is a moment, such as Girls star Jemima Kirke.
Lagerfeld’s studio is on the fourth floor, force for the good, his answer is emphatic. “I don’t have children myself but I am
reached via either an unprepossessing small “If you think it’s too many, you don’t very well with other people’s, like my
lift or several narrow flights of stairs. In an take those contracts. You know, I hate the famous godson [seven-year-old Hudson
antechamber there is a table covered with designers who take the money and then go, Kroenig, who regularly appears in mini
black boxes displaying one piece of diamond [he gasps theatrically] ‘It’s too much!’ For me, mode at Chanel shows]. You know Vanity
jewellery, each with a pink sticky note it’s normal. But I’m not normal so I don’t Fair makes an article about him since
attached – Geraldine Chaplin, Rita Ora etc. know. I like to do it. I don’t have to force they saw him dancing and singing with
From the next room the commanding myself.” Nor does he care that this original Pharrell in New York?” Karl relays proudly.
English tones of Amanda Harlech can be idea has been copied by other labels. “As long For a designer with a huge fashion show
heard interspersed with Lagerfeld’s brisk, as I have done it before. It’s OK with me.” taking place in just over 12 hours, Karl
gruff bark of a voice with its interrogative The concept for tomorrow’s couture show appears relaxed. He sits upright at his desk,
“huh” at the end of many of his sentences. is the Chanel casino. While the 67 models his hands constantly moving as around him
Lagerfeld sits at a large white desk at wearing his couture collection perambulate flutter the team – adjusting hems, tweaking
one end of the room, the surface covered around the set, which is being erected in the hair, adding and taking away accessories –
with crayons, iPhones and photographs Grand Palais, the centrepiece will be the before standing in groups silently awaiting
from the show’s press dossier. At one corner gaming tables peopled by Lagerfeld’s his verdict as each girl appears. The couture
of the desk Amanda Harlech is positioned, celebrity gamblers sporting the outfits and models are presented with the asymmetric
dressed in Celia Birtwell-print chiffon and jewellery of the Mademoiselle Privé exhibit. black bobs Karl has asked über-hairstylist
smoking a cigarette as she provides a stream Each personality is to have their own Sam McKnight to create and the highly

240 KARL LAGERFELD


rouged Kabuki-style cheeks of the show’s
make-up, and he treats them with a cool,
friendly politesse. He is particularly excited
by a jacket designed by a 3D computer,
made of a fused powder that is light and
tough, with a quilted surface and piping.
“The idea is to take the most iconic jacket
of the 20th century and make it in a way
that couldn’t have been made until the
21st,” he explains. It is one of the zillions of
ideas that pop into and out of his mind and
mouth all day, every day, and that enable
him to design not only for Chanel but also
for his Karl Lagerfeld label and the house
of Fendi. All three houses bear common
elements from their shared designer – a
fondness for large lapels and sloping
shoulders, a substantial Teutonic sensibility
that embraces tailoring and structure, often
an A-line silhouette – but each, too, has
a completely individual identity.
“I never mix them up in my mind. That
is the secret of the story. First of all, I prefer
not to analyse why or why not. I have the
feeling that when I am doing Fendi I am
another person to when I am doing Chanel
or my own line. I have no personality.
I have three,” he quips in his rapid mode.
“I never ask myself questions. I try to find
answers. It’s a very pretentious line, no?
I am in a way like a machine. I have electronic
flashes, it’s true.” Amanda elaborates: “It’s
like Karl puts the questions into the
computer and then it just goes ‘Bam!’”

manda Harlech is one of

A
Top: the Chanel Casino couture show at the
the small coterie of people Grand Palais where, above, from left, Rita Ora,
that surrounds Karl in a Kristen Stewart, Julianne Moore and Lily-Rose
Depp wore jewellery from the new Chanel exhibit
relationship that is part
bodyguard, part employee
and part companion. She,
40-year-old Sébastien (his right-hand man
whom he has known since he was 15) and a
few others have been an integral part of his
life for several decades – working, holidaying,
travelling, gossiping, informing and
inspiring. He has no computer, and though
he has something of an iPhone habit, the
devices contain a very limited number of
contacts (but an extensive collection of
photographs of his beloved cat, Choupette).
Instead this close group are his messengers
and mouthpieces, conduits to the world
COURTESY CHANEL/OLIVIER SAILLANT; JASON LLOYD-EVANS;

outside Lagerfeldland. “Most of these “I can do what


JOHN LINDEN; CATWALKING.COM; SPLASH; CAMERA PRESS

people have never worked for someone else. I like best – I don’t
have to fight with
Amanda, she worked for other people but anyone…” Above:
we forget that [a joking reference to her Paris/Bombay,
early collaboration with John Galliano]. I autumn pre-
collection 2012.
think the people around me I can really Right: the Chanel
trust. Even the people in my house. My “shopping centre”,
maids. Or Choupette’s.” a/w ’14. Far right:
“Choupette’s handmaidens,” says Chanel’s mobile art
pavilion, by Zaha
Amanda, adding her familiar verbal fairy Hadid, touring in
dust to Lagerfeld’s clipped vocabulary. > New York, 2008

241
Karl Lagerfeld and Julianne
Moore in the apartment at
31 Rue Cambon. Moore’s
dress was designed for her
by Lagerfeld. Her diamond
Comète necklace is part of
the re-edition of Coco
Chanel’s only fine-jewellery
collection, exhibited in
London this autumn

242 KARL LAGERFELD


“But I love to be alone,” continues Karl. Russian. He wanted me to be Russian. We And you can’t dispute that, unlike most of
“If you are sick and old with no money had to eat borscht once a week because he his peers, “it” really is all happening for him,
then it must be hard, but in my case it is loved it. I hate Russian food. I like the idea of watching him embrace Vanessa Paradis in
the height of luxury to be alone.” Russia but I hate what it has become today.” her loose shirt and pyjama pants of beige
He also hated school, leaving when he satin (“C’est très bien. Elle est jolie comme ça?”)
agerfeld is famous for being was young before winning the famous and tease Lara Stone about whether she has

L
intolerant of the concept of International Wool Secretariat prize in 1954 enough room in her tight, Madame X-
age. In this he mirrors the at the age of 21. “Balmain, who was one of inspired gown to actually sit at the gaming
opinion of his predecessor, the judges, asked me if I wanted to work in tables, as he pulls up photos texted by those
whose diktats on the subject his studio and my parents said, ‘Yes, OK, but handmaidens of Choupette on his phone
were frequent. “A woman if it doesn’t work, then you go back to school.’ (“She is beautiful, huh? She is three and
has the age she deserves” and “Ageing is So I worked because I hate to be taught. I like a half and she is three kilo”), all the while
a state of mind, one must keep enthusiasm to teach myself. And I’m pretty cultivated.” managing to constantly parcel out an
and curiosity” are two such utterances Despite being in Paris as the fashion world individual morsel of his attention to everyone.
quoted by Bronwyn Cosgrave in her Vogue embraced pre-Aids, post-sexual liberation in “Ah, Miss Lily… a little debutante,” he greets
on Coco Chanel biography, in which she a hard-partying whirl, Lagerfeld avoided the Lily Collins. He has total control of all the
also informs us that the designer was famous burn-out and other tragedies that affected details, from the hair which he has sketched
for her love of spa cures, pep pills and so many of his peers. “I think I’m lazy and on the original designs (those that weren’t
vitamins. Lagerfeld would appear to have I could do more, and better. But, you know, consigned, as he puts it, “to the garbage –
little time for spa cures (I don’t know about I don’t smoke, I don’t drink, I have never I work a lot for the garbage”) to the make-up
the vitamins), although he does like the taken drugs. It’s something I don’t need or to the layering of costume jewellery.
bracing Atlantic air of Biarritz. don’t want. I wouldn’t say that I always watch Lagerfeld will be on one of his relatively
We discuss the print of Amanda’s dress other people but in a way I have always been rare London visits for the opening of
and how the collaboration between Birtwell apart. In the Sixties and Seventies, if you Mademoiselle Privé, although he is not fond of
and Ossie Clark was a “moment”. “And this were not drinking and smoking and taking the city. I ask him about this. “Because I think
is what Karl knows,” Amanda emphasises. London is for the English,” he answers
“You have a moment and then you move on.
You keep moving.” “I am born to survive,”
“In a way, I’ve always without any attempt at a denial. “Remember
the line when Régine opened her nightclub
he agrees, keeping an eye on a model
approaching to show the back of a jacket
been apart. I like in London? ‘Where the middle class can
meet the Middle East,’ huh?” He casts a look
floating away from the spine. I flippantly
suggest that, in this case, maybe his DNA
the idea that I was which clearly conveys how he felt about this
snub to his friend back in the late Seventies.
would be useful for research. “But you know,
I was asked by somebody to do this,” he bats
behind a glass wall Indeed, Lagerfeld is not a man to cross. His
appearance armours a man who is surprisingly
back. “Because they think I’m not normal.
But I flatly refused. Unique pieces are unique
that protected me” vulnerable to criticism and a stickler for what
he regards as loyalty to himself and his work.
pieces. But I think very flattering, huh? And drugs, it was difficult. But I was never part He is also a man with no plans to slow
also I was asked for skincare for men because of anything. I like the idea that I was behind down any time soon. “I think I’m pretty lucky
they think I am remade. But I am not a glass wall that protected me.” that I can do what I like best in perfect
remade. I am all fake but not remade.” He Nowadays he considers himself a lark, conditions. I don’t have to fight with anybody.
removes his Chrome Hearts sunglasses to waking early although sometimes staying You know my contracts with Fendi and
reveal the unlined skin below his eyes, and in bed to draw and read. But he is known Chanel are for life? And I don’t feel tired at
pulls his ponytail away from his neck. “No for working late and when he travels, his all. I hate slow people. Horrible.” And his
scars,” offers Amanda, as proudly as if she entourage are usually prepared to be on call understanding of how fashion works – how
were talking about her own skin. “My mother, 24 hours a day. Despite this, he claims that to juggle the creation of some of the most
when I was 24, called me and said, ‘From he no longer has a social life, by which he expensive clothing in the world with the need
now on, it goes downhill,’” says Lagerfeld. means a red-carpet schedule. But does he to keep a brand relevant to the mainstream
“But, you know, I never went to bed without have friends? “I hope so. I think so,” he shopper (for example, casting Kendall Jenner
washing my face. But I think I also inherit. replies. “I have friends from a younger as a transgender bride in a trouser suit for the
My mother had impeccable skin.” generation. My generation all talk about finale of the show) continues to keep Chanel
Lagerfeld frequently refers to his their health and I don’t want that.” It is one in pole position as one of the most successful
childhood. The family included a sister and of the many disparaging comments he fashion houses of all time. With it privately
a half-sister but he describes himself as makes about his own age group, twice owned by the Wertheimer brothers, Gérard
“the only liked child. My parents weren’t mentioning that when he was 18 he visited and Alain, he credits them with letting him
interested. They put them in school and they a fortune-teller “in a horrible apartment do anything he wants in the pursuit of this
married when they came out. I could do with fake Louis XV. A fat Turkish woman goal. “You know luxury is the best way to get
what I wanted but I was an easy child. They with turquoise eyes. The first time I saw her, the money out of people’s pockets. Luxury is
were troublemakers. I only sketched and I put everything she said on a paper and put to spend a lot on what you really don’t need.
wanted to learn languages so I spoke French it in a desk in my parents’ house and when But it’s an industry and there’s nothing
when I was six.” He claims his father spoke my father died and my mother sold the bad about that. I prefer to make clothes
nine languages including Chinese and house I said, ‘I want to keep my desk.’ I than arms. Maybe you can be dressed to
Russian, the latter as a result of a period in found the envelope and everything she said kill… but dresses, they don’t kill anybody.” Q
Russia doing business. “My father lived in had happened. ‘For you, it really starts when “Mademoiselle Privé” is at the Saatchi Gallery,
Vladivostok and he regretted that he wasn’t it stops for the others.’ That’s what she said.” SW1, from October 13 to November 1

243
The couple’s house
was originally
just a cabin and
a crumbling barn.
Opposite: the
fireplace came with
the property, the
Sixties Butterfly
chair from a shop
in Hudson

Cabin FEVER
For New York’s fashion and art crowd, weekends are all about hanging out
in the Catskills with the locals – be they gophers, bears or secretive A-listers.
Marisa Meltzer visits stylist Clare Richardson at her mountain retreat
Photographs by Peter Ash Lee

244
245
round seven years ago,

A
Clare Richardson met Dan
Martensen for the first
time. It was at the house
he had just bought in the
Catskill Mountains in
upstate New York. Mutual
friends had taken the
English stylist to Bearsville, population 700, for
a country weekend. Now, one home renovation
and a wedding later, Richardson, a Vogue
contributing fashion editor, and Martensen, a
photographer from New York, divide their time
between Clinton Hill, a leafy neighbourhood of
brownstones in Brooklyn, and the Bearsville
house, two and a half hours to the north.
Back then, calling the former sheep farm a
house was a bit of a stretch – it was really a
small cabin and a gorgeous but crumbling
19th-century barn. “It was like a shed. You
pulled up a floorboard and it was just dust,”
says Richardson, who is tall and willowy and
blonde, and wearing a pair of black Frame
Denim shorts and a breezy cotton shirt. “There
was no heating, no running water, no windows.”
She and Martensen are the kind of couple
who enjoy a project they can dive into together,
so they decided to embark on a complete
renovation – making the two buildings one
cohesive space – all while planning their
wedding, which took place at the house. To say
it was chaotic would be an understatement:
the grass had only fully grown a week before
the ceremony; the bar in the main living area
arrived the day before. But they survived. And
today they have an easy, enviable rapport.
Their house manages to be majestic – soaring
ceilings and a stained-glass window in one of
the four bedrooms – and cosy, with stacks of
books (from the DJ John Peel’s memoir to Pride
and Prejudice) in a reading nook and a well-used
dartboard above the beige sofas. There’s a
wood-burning stove in the living area, where
a dramatic chandelier hangs above a large farm
table that seats 10. On a Friday afternoon, the
Supremes are singing “Where Did Our Love
Go?” on the vintage record player and the air
smells of jasmine. The couple’s pit bull, Jake, is
napping in a patch of sunlight on the floor. The
water in the pool is perfectly blue and the wild
irises outside are swaying in the breeze.
It’s a far cry from the Hamptons, where the
ostentatiously affluent (and those who aspire
to be ostentatiously affluent) convene for the
summer season, sometimes helicoptering in
from Midtown skyscrapers. With a Ralph
Lauren store and a Barry’s Bootcamp and clubs
packed with famous names and myriad places
to purchase $20 chopped salads, it often feels The main living
less like a relaxing destination and more like area, with its wood-
burning stove and
another borough of New York. table seating 10, has
In the Catskills, on the other hand, there is been carved out of
almost no mobile phone service. It’s an easy > the original barn

246 PETER ASH LEE


“I have to be careful
that I don’t make it
like an English
country house. Dan
is like, ‘We’re not
in England, Clare,
or France!’”
Top: an original stained-glass window in one
of the guest bedrooms. Above left: Richardson
bought the hammock on a trip to Mexico.
Above: the vintage marble-topped bar in the
main living area came from a shop in Hudson
and arrived only just in time for Clare and
Dan’s wedding. Left: Martensen has an
extensive guitar collection. Right:
Richardson with her pit bull, Jake. Below: the
rocking chairs on the porch were bought
locally; the cushions came from a shop called
Hammertown in nearby Rhinebeck

HAIR THROUGHOUT: RUDI LEWIS. MAKE-UP: SALLY BRANKA

248
drive, through green foothills and past
white clapboard houses shaded by birch
and maple trees that turn red and gold in
autumn. “You wouldn’t walk round in high
heels and you can’t go round tooting your
horn because you’re in a rush to get your
cappuccino,” laughs Richardson. “One local
friend goes to the shops in her pyjamas and
it’s because you can.” She says it reminds
her a bit of Cornwall, or maybe Sussex:
artsy areas full of organic everything where
she can truly switch off.
Yes, there is a certain hippy hangover in
the area (though it should be noted that the
1969 Woodstock festival actually took
place in Bethel, a town 43 miles away).
There is a dental practice called Transcend
Dental, the often nude, real-life town

“One local friend


goes to the shops
in her pyjamas
because she can”
mascot is an elderly man called Grandpa
Woodstock, and you can stay at Hotel
Dylan. “I like to describe Woodstock
as your weird uncle,” says Richardson.
“You love it, but it’s also embarrassing
sometimes.” She’s saying this over a lunch
of fish tacos in the garden of Sunfrost, an
Above: the house’s entrance. Left: Richardson is an avid organic café and nursery where old hippies
reader. Bottom left: a chandelier from ABC Carpet & Home and new bohemians mingle well.
hangs in the living area. Below: Turkish towels mix with
antique weighing scales and a marble sink in the bathroom
But even as this slice of the Catskills –
Bearsville, Woodstock, Phoenicia, Accord
– is the kind of anti-Hamptons (at hipster
hotel the Graham & Co in Phoenicia, one
can even buy a “Catskills vs Hamptons”
T-shirt), the area has developed a definite
air of cool, at least in the peak summer
season. Every weekend heralds the opening
of a Pilates studio or a new farm-to-table
restaurant opened by a chic couple from
Brooklyn. Artists, writers, fashion people
and film stars are moving in (properties
start at $500,000). Daniel Craig and
Rachel Weisz have a home in the area, as
do Iman and David Bowie. The list goes
on: Uma Thurman, Michelle Williams,
Marchesa’s Keren Craig, Willem Dafoe,
Steve Buscemi, plus Tricia and Terry Jones
formerly of i-D, and the photographers
Fabrizio Ferri and Matt Jones. One of
Richardson’s closest friends is the designer
Ryan Roche, who is known for her
desirable cashmere knitwear. She lives in
the area with her husband and three
children year-round.
Just the night before, Richardson and
Martensen had Roche and her family over
to make pizza with courgettes from the >

PETER ASH LEE 249


garden and then went to a reggae concert at drawn to and readjust how I thought.” The out their refrigerator and freezer, and so
the nearby Bearsville Theater. Good food couple at least knew how they didn’t want it invited anyone who wanted to come for
increasingly plays a central role. You can get to look. “We didn’t want a chi-chi modern dinner. “We were the only people in the
“well-raised” beef, lamb and pork at the place,” she says. Japanese and Scandinavian area that had gas, so we had all these
Applestone Meat Company in Accord, furniture felt too severe, but they didn’t want old-lady neighbours over. There were about
which was started by the moustachioed to cover the former barn in chintz either. 16 of us, and we didn’t know everyone.
Joshua Applestone (once called “America’s “The house is definitely masculine in a lot We made spaghetti bolognese. It was the
hottest butcher”). Or you can find Manuka of ways,” says Martensen. “The decor is not best bolognese I have ever had in my life,”
Honey Sugar Scrub for the face at Savor particularly heavy, it’s just that smaller, Richardson laughs. “We all had head torches
Spa in Woodstock, an outpost of the dainty furniture doesn’t really work here.” and did the washing-up in the pool.”
popular downtown Manhattan organic day Outside, Richardson is currently at war The first thing she does when she arrives
spa. Ron Sharkey, a former schoolteacher, with a gopher she has named Gordon, who in Bearsville is get her hands dirty in the
owns Ron Sharkey’s Downtown Antiques eats the heads off her flowers immediately garden. “I want to make these beds look
in Accord. after she plants them. “I’ll open the front wild,” she says, pointing to some irises,
You can also pick berries and eat wood- door and he’s literally just sitting there “I want that in the house, too. I don’t want
fired pizza at Westwind Orchard, a farm run staring at me,” she laughs. And then there it to be too prissy. I also have to be careful
by the photographer Fabio Chizzola that I don’t make it like an English
and the stylist Laura Ferrara that country house. Because Dan is
attracts locals and the fashion crowd. sometimes like, ‘We’re not in England,
The model Helena Christensen, Clare, or France!’”
who owns a house in Phoenicia, can A typical day starts early with tea
be seen eating grass-fed burgers at and National Public Radio, then she’ll
the Phoenicia Diner, a classic Sixties go to work on the plants and he will
diner that was recently given an get busy in the vegetable patch, where
organic makeover. From August to they have planted kale, lettuces,
October (ie before winter blankets courgettes, beetroots, radishes. Then a
the area with snow), Phil Windsor swim, and Martensen, the real cook in
– of the lauded, British-inspired the family, will make lunch – perhaps
Lower East Side restaurant Fat a big salad or pizza from their outdoor
Radish – hosts the outdoor Hudson oven. On a recent afternoon it was
River Barn dinners (that include open-faced sandwiches of toasted
campfires, table tennis and canoeing). rustic bread with a smear of a sour-
The Bear Café was opened in 1971 cream, horseradish, chive and lemon
by Albert Grossman, who managed blend, topped with Lenny’s smoked
Bob Dylan and Janis Joplin, but now trout and rocket picked fresh from the
attracts David Bowie, who can be garden. They love having massive
found singing “Happy Birthday” to dinner parties and have had as many
Iman there if you time it right. Martensen, Richardson and Jake the dog on the tailgate as 14 people sleep over. “Our house is
of their classic Jeep
Attending the Woodstock flea quite a social house,” she says.
market is still a novelty Richardson loves. are the bears. Jake has mistaken a baby bear It’s easy, maybe too easy, to hole up and
She grew up in Surrey and moved to cub for a fellow dog. Just this morning they spend the day at home, but there’s also
London as a teenager to study at Central awoke to find that a bear had dragged antiques shopping in Accord or Kingston,
Saint Martins. She began styling menswear their rubbish halfway down the road, where and places nearby to canoe and fly-fish,
but soon moved on to women’s clothing, their characterful neighbour Lenny raises and secret swimming holes to hike to in
too. She’s worked with photographers bees, smokes his own trout and makes his summer. In the autumn, they will have
Peter Lindbergh and Patrick Demarchelier, own sulphite-free zinfandel, rumoured to pumpkin-carving parties for Hallowe’en
styling collections for Rag & Bone and be hangover-free. and chop wood for the wood stove. In
Mugler, and worked on ad campaigns for It’s important for Richardson and the winter there’s skiing at Belleayre and
David Yurman and Calvin Klein. Martensen as a couple to be an active part Breaking Bad marathons in the living room.
She travels so frequently for work that of the community, both with the younger One pastime Richardson has adopted is
planning a trip far off isn’t appealing. crowd and the older group that gravitated the very American – but increasingly hard
“The last thing we want to do on holiday here in the Sixties. “It’s about supporting to track down – tradition of drive-in
is go somewhere else,” she says. “So it things, and being involved and friendly movie watching. She and Martensen go to
has become important to have this as a instead of just being weekenders that come Coxsackie, a town close by. “I’d only seen
sanctuary, where I can actually hear my in and out,” she says. them in films like Grease, but as a Brit,
thoughts. Especially in my job, where you Three years ago, during Hurricane Irene, going to one was pretty mind-blowing.”
are inundated with material things, this at least eight friends from the city came to She hasn’t gone completely American,
definitely takes it down. You can regroup.” stay, fearing the predictions that New York though. “We do a very English Christmas,”
Decorating the house turned out to be a City would be hit hard. Instead, the storm Richardson notes, complete with traditions
very different skill to styling clothes. “That ended up being much stronger in the lacking in America, such as crackers and
took me a while to figure out. With styling Woodstock area. “We lost power, of course, chipolata sausages she had to drive two and
I know what I like straight away. When I there were floods everywhere around here a half hours to find. She smiles and looks
started doing the interiors, it was definitely and New York City was fine,” Martensen around the former barn she now calls home.
back to basics. I had to figure out what I was says. By the second day, they had to clean “Everyone thought I was insane.” Q

250
Hats from Richardson’s
“ongoing collection”
hang in the kitchen
above a Chinese chest

PETER ASH LEE


Press
play Katharine Viner, recently
appointed the first woman editor
in the Guardian’s history, tells
Emily Sheffield about ambition,
feminism and fashioning
journalism in an uncertain world
Portrait by Jason Bell

n a grey day in King’s Cross,

 O
where muted, hazy light is
doing its best to flatten the
afternoon with its dank
gloom, Katharine Viner, 44,
is sitting at her desk behind
a large screen, confiding her
appreciation of male facial
hair. “I quite like a beard…”
she insists drily, one eyebrow cocked. “If it grows longer,
it gets silky, you see…”
The mood is intimate, funny and entirely at odds with
both the macho surroundings of her office at the Guardian,
with its floor-to-ceiling glass and corporate greys, and the
glamour of her new black Stella McCartney skirt suit. But
inclusive banter – delivered in her still-flat Yorkshire vowels
– and familiarity are attributes that come easily to Viner.
She scrolls down her screen. The Guardian has just
uploaded its reaction to “Milibeard”, and Viner nods her
approval at their response. A tweeted picture of Ed Miliband
in Brisbane, with his new holiday stubble, had gone viral
that morning. It will be headline news in all tomorrow’s
papers. The Guardian’s online piece is, however, less static: it
changes in real time, commenting on and re-tweeting the
live conversation volleying back and forth between readers.
News now endlessly, organically shifts – no longer a
hierarchical structure with journalists autocratically
delivering their opinions 24 hours after the event, but a
constant, engaged conversation. And Viner, the Guardian’s
new editor-in-chief, is very good at that. >

252
“I’ve just got a very upbeat,
go-for-it approach to life.
I was never taught to doubt that
that was a good way to live.”
Katharine Viner photographed
at Grain Store in London, near
the Guardian’s headquarters.
Hair: Diana Moar. Make-up:
Jo Bull. Sittings editor: Nura Khan
KATHARINE WEARS TOP, VICTORIA VICTORIA BECKHAM, AT NET-A-PORTER.COM. SKIRT, MICHAEL
KORS COLLECTION. EARRINGS, MARNI. WITH THANKS TO THE GREAT NORTHERN HOTEL, N1

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“She has an openness and a kind of there was a no-nonsense energy to her, lots of here. Beyond a vast whitewashed atrium, the
unguardedness, this unapologetic sense of thick hair and a direct gaze. Ambitious, but reception is decorated with Sixties lights and
play that’s not very Fleet Street,” says her not at the expense of others, which was rare pop-coloured modern chairs. Belu sparkling
friend, the writer Naomi Klein. then in such a competitive, male-dominated water is on hand alongside the visitor
At the time of our meeting, Viner is 10 environment. I say she’s made us proud and information booklet, Living Our Values. The
weeks into the job and there is an air of barely she bows comically. For a paper that has long traditional grey landscape of the newsroom
suppressed glee about her. Her excitement championed the rights of women, a female underwent a dramatic rebranding exercise in
strains happily against the strictures of her editor was overdue. “That was a conversation 2008 when the company moved here from its
new wardrobe. (“When she arrived back in we had early on,” says Liz Forgan, outgoing former base on Farringdon Road. Writ large
the London office as editor-in-chief,” says chair of the Scott Trust (the company that on splashes of primary colour across white
Jess Cartner-Morley, the paper’s fashion owns Guardian News & Media, manages its walls and glass sliding doors are their “core
editor, “there was a lot of new-season Stella. overall strategy and hires the editor). “I values”: cherish, value, conscience, or the more
It was clear that she had been shopping and wanted to know how the other members of nebulous soul, character, wider, higher. It’s like
thought about what she was going to wear.”) the Trust felt. We all agreed it would be being on the set of The IT Crowd but a little
wonderful if the candidate more glamorous (or affected, depending on
She insists she never was a woman, but if a stronger
candidate was a man, we
your disposition).
The move was one of the major changes
encountered any sexism. would appoint a man.”
One of her first small acts
under Rusbridger’s watch. Before announcing
his retirement last Christmas, he presided
“I wonder if I just steamed as editor, Viner says, opening
the door of a little metal
over some of the paper’s greatest journalistic
coups – Edward Snowden, Julian Assange,
over it, bulldozed through” wardrobe near her desk, was
to request a full-length mirror
the phone-hacking scandal – and is widely
credited with driving the Guardian’s online
I pull a copy of Sheryl Sandberg’s auto- inside. “Alan just had a shaving square at expansion: it is now the most popular news
biography from her still sparse bookshelves. head height.” She tells the story with obvious website in Britain. But in person, Rusbridger
She points out the signed hand-written delight. Another was to remove the zingy is donnish in appearance, with a bookish
message inside: “Katharine, with my best canary-yellow sofas that dominated the large air, disquietingly reticent in conversation
wishes. Thanks for the example you set for adjacent room where staff meetings are held. (though not in scope or ambition).
women.” It was posted, Viner says, fascinated, It wasn’t the colour. “They just weren’t By contrast, Viner gesticulates often and
“the day after it was announced I was editor.” feminist,” she states, with a knowing smile. enthusiastically, combining assured comic
“Too deep and too high; women’s legs sort of timing with her physicality to charismatic
er features are strong and dangled. Poor Libby Brooks just disappeared effect. “She very clearly has a new tone of

H expressive and she exudes


a sexy, confident elegance.
She says she loves clothes
and today is wearing low
ankle-strap heels and a
tailored skirt, which she constantly and
gently tugs down over slim, tanned legs. She
laughs easily; it’s a sort of low hoot, but can
rise dramatically. Cartner-Morley was a
into them. And there were skirt issues.”
Viner is too savvy to be drawn into
assigning any editing skills she has to
feminine traits – in fact, flatly denies this is so
– but that doesn’t remove the matter-of-fact
approach she takes to feminism. It is innate
with her. It’s common practice in newspapers
that editors have certain words or phrases
circulated as a banned list. Asked if she had
voice and attitude,” notes Forgan.
Viner describes her managerial approach
as “very open, very collaborative”. “I like to
bring a lot of energy to things,” she says.
“And make it enjoyable.” Unlike Rusbridger,
she stands up to take morning conference.
It’s the traditional start to the day where
editors and staff gather to discuss the
upcoming agenda. “It makes for quite a
researcher when they both started at the already distributed hers, she replies drolly, dynamic meeting, grabbing people from
Guardian in the late Nineties. “I had a rather “Well, a recent headline, ‘Smack My Beach around the room.” But, as much as she
romanticised notion of newspaper life, and of Up’, certainly won’t be appearing again.” praises, she also calmly skewers mistakes, the
course the reality didn’t quite match up. But I ask if she finds any difference between benign smile remaining as she lists “missed”
Kath stood out. It was like she was in working with either sex. “The Guardian is stories or a long read she found “a bit pseudo”.
technicolour in a newsprint world. She had a place where women really thrive,” Viner “I know the staff very much like her
this salty, glamorous Katharine Hepburn-ish says measuredly. “But obviously, just now collegiate style,” agrees Louise Chunn,
thing going on, and a filthy laugh that you and again, you can tell some people are just founder of Welldoing.org, who was the
could hear from the other end of the floor.” a bit disconcerted that their boss is a Guardian women’s editor when Viner, aged
In June, Viner became the first female woman.” She insists she never encountered 23, briefly interned with her. Chunn’s
editor in the Guardian’s 194-year history – any sexism as she charged up the Guardian husband, Andrew Anthony, is a writer on the
no small achievement – inheriting the role ranks. “I wonder if I just steamed over it. Observer. “She wants to know what people
from Alan Rusbridger, who led the paper for Bulldozed my way through.” think about everything and that’s great. But
two decades. She is the only woman editor- If the Guardian has been anything less in the end, if you’re editor, it’s a lonely, tough
in-chief of a national broadsheet. Her remit than progressive, its loyal readership would job because you’ve got to take responsibility.”
covers both the daily Guardian and its sister never guess from the content of the paper “I feel like I’ve been really well trained
paper on Sunday, the Observer, and, more itself. Launched in 1821 by John Edward and prepared,” is Viner’s response to the
influentially, Theguardian.com. And her Taylor, it has been solidly centre-left and pressures of leadership. “And I’m a good
global editorial staff totals more than 900. liberal in its politics and perspective ever age to be doing it. The scale is completely
I worked with Viner briefly when we both since, its readers committed and involved. different. Now the buck stops with me.”
joined the Guardian in 1997. I was two years Its offices are self-consciously hip, As a media brand, the Guardian will be
younger, a features assistant, while she was distinctly New Labour, rather than Old. defined in the next era as “about being on
hired as deputy women’s editor. Even then Jeremy Corbyn might feel a little out of place people’s side. It’s a vastly unequal world and

254
we’re with the majority who aren’t in the London hotel for five weeks. One of several I don’t believe in public messiness, so I am
super elite.” However, you sense it is the new interviews was an optional public hustings in quite stiff-upper-lip.”
processes of journalism itself that really excite front of the staff, hosted by the NUJ. Viner She’s reading the new Jonathan Franzen
her; she is not intimidated by the new digital won a satisfying 53 per cent of the vote over and just finished all of Elena Ferrante’s
landscape. That, for all her formidable four other candidates. “I mean, that’s a novels. Does she read any trash? “No, I don’t
political skills, this is where she excels, fantastic feeling of support and, you know, read trash. No, madam!” Not even Fifty
because the fluid nature of new journalism faith,” she says hesitantly. Shades of Grey? “I read it for work purposes,”
not only suits her energy levels but also her she counters sternly. “It was a struggle…”
warmth and her ability to communicate, to iner grew up in Ripon, a Like most high-achievers she is an early
make friends, to enthuse.
“Before, all you could do really was play
around with a story’s length,” she explains.
“Whereas now we can ask, should it be a
video, should it be audio, should it be a list, or
just a series of embedded tweets? Or 5,000
words of beautifully crafted writing – all of
them work brilliantly on digital. And we can
direct traffic to things we are proud of. I just
V rural market town in
North Yorkshire. “I’m very
emotional about Yorkshire
and very connected to it. It’s
sort of in me, you know.” She
has one younger brother; her parents, who
were both history teachers (now divorced),
took the Guardian every day. Her confidence
is inherent, she insists. “It’s not a front. I’ve
riser, 6.15am every day. She loves the gym,
takes the Tube to work, her heels tucked in
an oversized MZ Wallace quilted handbag
she bought in New York. At the moment she
doesn’t want to switch off: “I’ve just started so
I’ve given myself licence to be as obsessed as
I want.” That said, her last holiday was a yoga
retreat, “and I often go away with my family.
I’ve got a fantastic seven-year-old niece I love
have no interest in doing brilliant journalism just got a very upbeat, go-for-it approach to spending time with.” Old friends and family
that nobody reads. I want people to read it, life. I get very absorbed and want to share play a big part in her life, and she is very close
watch it and interact with it and be part of it.” that enthusiasm with people. I was never to her mother. “Kath is always the professional
Viner had been in New York, as editor-in- taught to doubt that was a good way to live.” and the person,” says actor and director Alan
chief of the American digital edition, for six Her CV spells out determined ambition Rickman over email. He and Viner were co-
months when Rusbridger resigned, but she and a persistent ability to succeed – head girl editors on the play My Name Is Rachel Corrie
had been on the staff for 18 years. “I thought, at Ripon Grammar School; her first article for the Royal Court. “The iPhone is never far
well, whatever happens, life is going to (“The Last Day of the O Level”) published from reach, but she knows when to put it
change and that’s exciting,” she recalls. Her in the Guardian when she was 16. “I’m really down and pick up the knife, fork and wine
career began at Cosmopolitan before she self-motivated,” she admits. “I was fixated on glass. And laugh. She can switch from
moved to the Sunday Times Magazine. After getting into Oxford.” Asked if there was hilarity to absolute focus in a nanosecond.
joining the Guardian, she rose from deputy anything she was bad at, she mentions her art She came for a brunch for 10 in New York.
women’s editor to features writer, editor of teacher “ripping up a painting I had done”. When she arrived, she knew about three of
Weekend and joint deputy of the Guardian At senior school, she says, she came first in them. That lasted about 15 minutes.”
with Ian Katz, now editor of Newsnight (and her art exam. “And I wrote a letter to the Griffiths lets slip that Viner is a karaoke
her most formidable competitor for the job). teacher in junior school who had ripped that fan. And “every year, she holds this big knees-
Her close friend Hannah Griffiths, fiction painting up.” You sense this was not a show up for her birthday with a group we’ve known
editor at Faber & Faber, denies Viner ever of triumph but about righting an injustice. since our twenties.” Viner isn’t married and
doubted herself. “She always had this On Oxford: “I really enjoyed the course has no children. “She’s not met the right guy
completely positive attitude to getting the but I’d say I never really found my place.” She yet, in her view,” adds Griffiths. “But there
job. She wanted it and she could do it better pauses. “Life took off for me when I moved isn’t this big well of pain there. She is
than the others; there was just conviction.” to London. I was absolutely dazzled. I just someone who has taken huge advantage of
loved it from day one.” She met her freedoms.” When I ask Viner if she could
“Viner was technicolour Griffiths at Oxford and they
moved to London together.
do this job with, say, three children at home,
she shrugs amicably. “I wouldn’t know
in a newsprint world, with “We are from very provincial
backgrounds. But Kath has
because I don’t have them.” She thinks it’s an
issue brought up “to divide women”.
a filthy laugh heard from never been plagued by imposter
syndrome,” says Griffiths. “She
Before he departed, Alan Rusbridger
described the current journalistic landscape
the other end of the floor” sees where she has come from
as a huge strength.”
in a long piece he published in the paper: “It
was a world of known knowns. Twenty years
Before New York, Rusbridger had sent her She owns a house in Peckham, which she later, we swim in unknown unknowns.”
to Australia to launch the Guardian’s digital- rented out while she was in New York. Until Viner has inherited the Guardian at a time
only edition. It was the success of her time the tenancy is up and she can move back in when journalism is at a crossroads. GNM –
there, she thinks, that built that confidence. she “camps” in a flat in Borough Market, “so the media group which owns the Guardian
It also proved her leadership skills – that’s not ideal. But I’ve lived in three – is running at an annual loss of £20 million.
constructing a team of 40 from scratch. She continents in the last two years so, you The shrinking paper version still provides
plays me a video they made for her departure. know…” In terms of decor, her Peckham the largest chunk of revenue. “The business
Asked to describe her in three words, house, she says, is a cliché: “lots of records model for journalism is precarious,” she says
“hilarious” and “bloody terrifying” come up and books” (she was obsessed with The carefully. “And I hope, as an industry, we’ll
in equal measure. Smiths as a teenager – one shared trait with find an answer. I think society needs us to
She has begun her editorship with the the prime minister, then) and artefacts picked find an answer.” For now there is a more
advantage of enjoying (for now, at least) the up from her travels. I ask if she finds it pressing unknown. “I’ve got to go to an ‘all-
support of colleagues. In typical Guardian uncomfortable talking about herself. “Yes! hands’ meeting,” she grins. “And I have no
fashion it was a rather earnest selection How can you tell?” she laughs, pulling her idea what an all-hands meeting is!” She is
process, with Viner having to camp in a jacket tight over her silk shirt. “You know still laughing as she heads out of the door. Q

255
This page: the mirror
crack’d – Elizabeth Paget
poses as Tennyson’s Lady
of Shalott for Cecil
Beaton, Vogue July 1936.
Opposite: “Seeing
double?” asked Vogue,
when Siri Tollerød played
Gemini’s twins for set
designer Shona Heath
and photographer Tim
Gutt’s “Star Signs”
shoot, December 2010

CECIL BEATON; TIM GUTT


GUTTER CREDIT

256
reflected
GLORY
A woman’s relationship with her reflection is about much more than
vanity. Mirrors cast a light on what it is to be human – and no app or
new technology can improve on that, says Christa D’Souza,
as Vogue contemplates images from its archive

257
magine looking at Key, too, is the quality of mirror, mirrored shed, Lucid Stead, in the

 I
yourself in the mirror particularly in the changing rooms – middle of the Californian desert, or
for the first time. ideally 10mm thick, “silvered” with Alyson Shotz’s genius idea of a
You can’t, of course, silver nitrate (not the aluminium that mirrored picket fence); the way it can
but supposing you is used to back mass-manufactured fuck with your mind. Remember the
could. How earth- mirror) and with no inconsistencies final scene in the 1947 film The
shattering that must in the glass to distort reflection. Lady from Shanghai, in which Rita
have been for man, Good (brave) call, this. It must be so Hayworth and Orson Welles chase
when he gazed into tempting for retailers to dupe us. each other to death in a mirror maze?
a pool of water Next up, Virgile’s particular pride And what about those freaky eternity
millions of years ago and joy, the 360-degree “delay” mirrors mirrors that go on and on and on…
and suddenly realised that the figure in the style-concierge lounge. Imagine just like the crazy mirrored loos
moving in symmetry with his was a three-panel mirror with a video at Ottolenghi’s Mayfair restaurant,
neither an enemy nor a playmate but screen attached to the central one. Nopi. If you want to recreate that
he. They say that discovery was the By setting the in-built camera to a feeling you used to get smoking too
birth of human awareness, for what five to 10 second delay, you can do much weed at college, I recommend
other creature, except perhaps the a little catwalk turn in your outfit, getting locked in one of them. Two
dolphin or elephant, can look at watch yourself afterwards, and then interesting asides: a) most people get
itself in the mirror and know that it share said footage via Twitter, panic attacks if they look at themselves
is itself? But then, who’s to say there Instagram or email “for that final in the mirror for too long; and b) you
isn’t another form of life out there reassuring opinion”, as Virgile puts cannot be a schizophrenic if you are
capable of allowing what is essentially it. It is the ultimate tool for the
a plate of silvered glass to 100 per 21st-century narcissist, this mirror
cent ruin its entire bloody day? that thinks it’s a camera, or the other “Smart” mirrors may
A hot afternoon in Birmingham,
and I have just pitched up at the
way round, and if Kimye don’t yet
have matching ones, they soon will.
sound gimmicky but they
spanking new branch of Harvey “Smart” mirrors may sound are the future… Kimye will
Nichols. With its “immersive tunnel” gimmicky but they are the future.
entrance surrounded by LED screens, Take the patented MemoryMirror (or soon have matching ones
battery of style concierges and pay- Memomi) being rolled out in selected
by-tablet system, it looks to be the American department stores. Invented congenitally blind. (It goes without
most digitally sophisticated fashion by Palo Alto techie Salvador Nissi saying that looking in the mirror
store Britain has ever seen. And Vilcovsky, it uses cameras and sensors while on an ayahuasca retreat is a very
mirrors – as architect Carlos Virgile to create an avatar of you the shopper bad idea indeed.)
of Virgile & Partners, which designed and, via your hand gestures, allows you And let it not be underestimated
the 45,000sq ft space, explains – play not only to see yourself doing runway how intimate the act of checking
a very large part in it. He leads me to but to scroll through different colours yourself out in one is – the reason,
the vast VIP changing-room lounges and styles without actually having to perhaps, communal changing rooms
(complete with “modesty” hatches leave the changing room. Or what never properly caught on. If you were
for sales assistants to push items about the interactive mirror unveiled around in the Seventies you might
through) where, connecting the by Panasonic earlier this year which, remember the ignominy of it all,
men’s and women’s sides, a gallery of by using in-built, high-definition being surreptitiously surveyed while
pivoting, full-length mirror panels cameras, allows you to pick out your surveying yourself and so on, but if
create multiple reflections. “Think every flaw and then suggests the right not, ever been caught out making
Mme Chanel,” beams Virgile, product to make you the fairest of mirror face (subtle jut of the chin,
“descending her famous faceted- them all. In other words, the days slight rearrangement of the mouth,
mirror stairs at 31 Rue Cambon!” when a sales assistant had to rustle minute turn to best side)? And
As yet unopened, the ground- around for a hand mirror so you could beware of the two-way mirror, not
floor area is still strewn with bubble- see what you looked like from behind? just a feature of the “Nothing to
wrapped merchandise, and with its They are long, long gone. Declare” channel. Believe me, there
sleek polyurethane ceilings, iridescent are a whole number of innocent
walls, mirrored columns, mirrored he mirror. The reflective surfaces on central London
clothing rails, even, all playing off

T looking glass. The streets, behind which banks of bored


EDUARDO BENITO; HELMUT NEWTON; JOSH OLINS; PETER KNAPP;
NORMAN PARKINSON/COURTESY NORMAN PARKINSON ARCHIVE

each other, it feels like being in a flattering glass, as office workers sit.
giant jewellery box. it used to be called Vanity, reassurance, a stick with
“That’s exactly what we wanted to in the 16th century which to beat ourselves. These are
create,” says Virgile, “a huge mirrored when Venice held just some of the psychological cues
effect. And we wanted to make the the monopoly on the industry (before that draw us to the mirror. But there
structural columns almost disappear, the French stole its best mirror- are others. “I’m really just using
so we clad them in full-height mirror makers for Versailles). Let its power the mirror to summon something
panels with lighting that enhances never be underestimated. The way it I don’t even know until I see it,” the
the corners and ‘frames’ the mirror. echoes light and can sex up the blah- photographic artist Cindy Sherman,
It offers the customer the possibility est of spaces (cases in point: artist whose subject matter is only ever her,
of looking in every area of the store.” Phillip K Smith III’s spectacular once said. But what are we actually >

258
doing when we look in the mirror?
Are we looking at ourselves or are
we looking for ourselves wonders
Caroline McHugh, founder of
Idology, a mentoring company that
advises, among others, Fortune 500
companies, artists and schoolchildren
in India. Why should that be the sum
of “you”, when there is so much more
to “you” than that?, as she said at her
excellent TEDx Talk a few years ago.

rom Birmingham to

F the idyllic environs of


Ludlow in Shropshire
to realise a childhood
fantasy of mine; that
is, to see how this
inert object, which was used by
scryers as a magic portal to look into
the future – this thing that can be
such a cruel traitor and yet such a
dear, dear friend – is actually made.
Here I am then, wearing an oxygen
Above left: mirror,
mask in a skylit, slightly medicinal-
signal, manoeuvre smelling workshop with Mr Mirror
– Jerry Hall checks Man, aka Rupert Bevan of Rupert
her maquillage at Bevan Ltd, a bespoke furniture
the “Vogue motor
show”, October company that specialises in top-
1976. Above right: quality, traditionally made mirror
applying glam-rock (mottled, tinted, “wavy”, inlaid with
coloured contacts,
June 1972. Left: fabric, whatever you want), about
Edie Campbell in to do just that. A handsome,
a reflective mood, public-school type who collaborates
March 2015. Right:
illustrator Eduardo
regularly with Nick Jones (those
Benito’s art deco fabulous bevelled-mirror cocktail
looking glass, cabinets they have in the rooms at
November 1926. Soho House Miami? They’re his),
Below: enchanted by
her own image – a Bevan explains how traditional
reclining Vicki Wise mirror-makers, like typesetters, are
by Helmut Newton, a dying breed. The actual process, he
May 1968
adds, hasn’t changed much since the
1880s, the only difference being that
mercury is no longer used. (In those
days the average life expectancy for a
mirror-maker was 27.)
Having washed a piece of glass
and placed it on an easel, one of the
company’s in-house glass artists,
Rebecca Eccles, is now about to
nozzle-spray it with a perfectly
calibrated, deceptively clear mixture
of silver nitrate and ammonia.
Psssssh, there it goes, like an airbrush,
spraying minute droplets of paint.
And then the magic happens.
Reminiscent of that scene in The
Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe, in
which the White Witch petrifies her
enemies into stone, so the rectangle
of glass suddenly transforms into
silvery mirror. Forget laminating, it
is impossible not to get hooked by
the process. Is there any object or >

259
“Who is the fairest
of them all?” The
answer, of course, is
Karen Elson in pink
Versace ruffles,
Vogue April 2008

TIM WALKER

260
surface in my house that wouldn’t Maybe we need a degree of they need them,” says Jonathan
look better silvered up thus? separation. “The mirror is not you,” as Sattin, the diplomatic co-founder of
“I love mirrors,” says Julie de the legendary choreographer George Triyoga, “not in yoga studios because
Libran, creative director of Sonia Balanchine once admonished. “The we think they become the focus.”
Rykiel, whose second show for the mirror is you looking at yourself.” And if you believe in feng shui,
brand was based on the interplay But how, in this narcissistic, you’ll know never to place a mirror at
between mirror and light. “I collect polyreflective world, can one do that? the bottom of stairs for fear of cutting
them and have them all over the Doesn’t society – biology, actually – off heads and feet. Or to hang one
house, not necessarily to look into but collude in having us gaze at, compare opposite your front door – apparently
to reflect light. I think my husband with and critique ourselves at every this pushes the energy right back
gets a bit fed up with them sometimes. possible waking moment? outside. As any feng shui expert will
“I inherited that from my mother, One way is to try a “mirror fast”, tell you, time and again, businesses
who also collected them, but I learnt a trend created by various American fold for making that mistake.
about the dialogue we have with bloggers a couple of years ago. By
mirrors by reading some of Sonia’s Kjerstin Gruys, for example, the n the other hand,
writings on the subject. For that

An adult woman looks


at herself in the mirror an
average of 38 times a day,
for a man it is 18
29-year-old who for 52 weeks before
her wedding abstained from looking
in any reflective surface other than
her car’s rear-view mirror (crucially
she also instituted a selfie ban). A
post-doctoral fellow in gender
research at Stanford, with a vague
resemblance to Amy Schumer,
Gruys ended up writing a book on
O what about the
situation
you’d give your
kingdom for a
when

decent one? Like


in a lift, before arriving at a party. Or
when you need to put your make-up
on in the office before going out for
the evening and all the loos are
the experience: Mirror, Mirror Off engaged. Ever tried putting it on via
a/w ’15 ready-to-wear show I wanted the Wall, How I Learned to Love My Photo Booth? No mean feat, take it
to show the contrast between the Body (she is also a former anorexic). from me. Meanwhile, what is the
cold, truthful mirror and the softness In it she concludes that by abstaining current etiquette for using a compact
of velvet. That contrariness is so deep from looking at herself in the mirror at table? Can it be pulled off, in a retro
and profound, it’s like love and hate.” she gained back 90 hours of her time. kind of way, if the compact is a vintage
“Mirrors don’t lie,” as Rykiel But is it possible to detach one’s art-nouveau triangle from Fabergé?
herself, a self-confessed mirror junkie, appearance from one’s self esteem? Or is retouching in company totally
once famously pronounced. And she “Absolutely!” she emails from infra dig? This relates to an irritating
is right, they do not. Or they should California. “I don’t think it’s realistic new east London trend of having
not. Remember the Skinny Mirror or even helpful to completely “You look gorgeous”, or words to that
that everyone was talking about a separate appearance from one’s self, effect, scrawled on bathroom walls
couple of years ago, with the convex but the less we orient our sense of above sinks in lieu of mirrors. Fine if
curve in it to make you look like self-worth round our appearance, you are someone who is so busy you
you’d lost 10lb? Anyone been to a the healthier we’ll be. I think one’s don’t have time to pee, let alone look
certain shop on New Bond Street, behaviour should reflect one’s values, in the mirror, but for everyone else
the changing rooms of which are so and what is healthy for one woman (you and me) it is just one big bore.
ludicrously flattering they ought to may not be healthy for another. That And while we are on the subject of
be cited under the Trade Descriptions said, I urge all women to give some annoying visual sallies, what of the
Act? Tsk, tsk, too, though, to the serious thought to whether or not toilets on Virgin trains which have
boutique a couple of doors down, there is a point of diminishing return “Hey there, good looking” written
with the looking glasses that make when it comes to our time, money on the mirrors (in an annoying
your car wing mirror (in which you and emotion spent on appearance.” Brush Script-like font, to boot)? A
catch yourself by mistake, in the cold Hear, hear. Aren’t there certain moratorium on mirrors being written
light of morn, with no make-up on, situations when you can’t think of on at any time, please. As my fellow
having drunk half a bottle of wine anything you would like to do less? journalist and Virgin train passenger
the previous night) seem forgiving. When you are eating, for example. Or Nicola implores via email: “Don’t let
Oh Lord, and what about the Truth having sex. And what on earth was them do this. Mirrors are no joke.”
Mirror? That’s the smartphone I thinking on our last big redecorate, According to a paper published in
app – based on a device created by having a full-length mirrored cabinet The Behaviour Research and Therapy
Catherine and John Walter in placed bang in front of the loo? Journal, an adult woman looks at
the Eighties involving two mirrors If you are into Bikram yoga and, herself in the mirror an average of 38
placed at a 90-degree angle with the like me, can’t do it without a mirror, times a day; for a man it is 18.
seam taken out – that “unreverses” you’ll likely have a favourite spot Typically, the age at which a baby
your reflection and lets you see in front of a particular one – woe recognises its own reflection in the
yourself as others see you, rather betide anyone bag it first. But how mirror, ie becomes aware of being
than how you see yourself. (Brace liberating it is, once in a while, to do aware, is between 20 and 24 months,
yourselves for this one. How come no “proper” yoga, where mirrors in class the point when we are supposed to
one told me I have a head shaped are all but spat on? “We have them make leaps and bounds in cognitive
like an upside-down broad bean?) for Pilates and barre studios because development. “I am, therefore I >

261
think,” as Gordon G Gallup Jr, the
Seventies psychologist who co-wrote
The Face in the Mirror: the Search for
the Origins of Consciousness, so cleverly
put it. But if mirrors did not exist
would we not have to invent them?
To slightly paraphrase the French
cultural theorist Jean Baudrillard,
“Bourgeois society has its mirrors,
primitive society has its masks.”
To be totally lacking in judgement,
to feel neither this way nor that when
one looks in the mirror. To know
instinctively, of an evening, that you
look just fine as you are. That would
be marvellous. But is it humanly
possible? Should it be humanly
possible? As counterpoint to all this
mythologising we do of ourselves
via social media, doesn’t modern
humanity demand “something silver
and exact” with “no preconceptions”,
as Sylvia Plath once described it, in
order to literally and figuratively
take that one piece of jewellery off?
“We need to be aware of why we
are looking in the mirror. Are you
looking to critique or compare
yourself? Are you looking to flatter
yourself? Are you looking to see if you
have a piece of spinach between your
teeth?” So speaks Phillippa Diedrichs,
senior research fellow at the Centre
for Appearance Research at the
University of the West of England
and a member of the Dove Self-
Esteem Project global advisory board.
“The bigger issue here is being aware
of the role appearance plays in your
life and ideally keeping it in its place.
If you are disproportionately focused
on the way you look as a way to make
yourself feel good or bad, that can be
problematic. On the other hand, for
those who exhibit pathological
avoidance behaviours – for example,
avoiding your reflection because you
are unhappy with the way you look,
– mirror-exposure therapy, where
a therapist will guide you towards
neutral mindfulness, can be used to
actually improve image, too.”
My little mirror journey has ended.
Although of course it has not. This
afternoon I am going to the
hairdresser’s, one of the few public
places where we are given permission
to gaze at ourselves for as long as we
want. While I now know that mirrors
can’t help their potent effect over us,
for both good and bad, I can’t help
but hope that the one I always sit
in front of at George Northwood is
going to be as kind as it generally is. Q

262
Opposite: Jessica Stam models Dior Haute Couture amid the
gilded 18th-century opulence of the V&A’s Norfolk House Music
Room, October 2007. Above left: hat, gloves, compact… the
essential accessories of Fifties femininity, August 1953.
Above: through the looking glass – photographer Tim Walker
gets into the shot with Kate Moss, December 2013. Left: mirror
group – draped eveningwear modelled in the powder room at
Harrods for a shoot by Norman Parkinson, March 1975
CORINNE DAY; DAVID BAILEY; ERWIN BLUMENFELD; PETER KNAPP; TIM WALKER;

Left: you’ve been


framed – Jean
Shrimpton
PARKINSON/COURTESY NORMAN PARKINSON ARCHIVE

photographed at
home in Wales by
David Bailey,
October 1972.
Right: “a lady never
makes up her face in
public.” “Doesn’t
she?” Cathee
Dahmen challenges
the societal norms,
June 1971
NORMANCREDIT
GUTTER

263
VOGUEbeauty

Sound BITES
Word of mouth has it that good oral hygiene is the portal to a healthy life.
So why are we utterly indifferent about our teeth, asks Christa D’Souza

h
ow long did you spend brushing your in the sink? Do you ever brush in the shower? brushing and spitting away? While we’re at it,
teeth this morning? Are you sure it Have you ever brushed lying down in bed? (It’s what state is your toothbrush in? Is it as pristine
was a full two minutes? Would you say one way to get an extra five minutes and it and presentable as the day it was bought, or is
you were a rinser or a towel wiper, a walker or makes sense when you consider the position you its handle caked in dried toothpaste and its
a dribbler? That is, can you simultaneously are in for the hygienist.) Do you need privacy or head sporting splayed tufts? In other words,
ANGELO PENNETTA

have your head in your wardrobe choosing are you like the Swedish couple in the marvellous does it get as much prominence as any of your
what to wear or will there be a trail of white Force Majeure, lined up with the kids in front other beauty products or is it, like mine, on a
blobs everywhere if you don’t keep your head of the mirror in their jammies, all furiously decorative par with the lavatory brush? >

265
VOGUEbeauty
Of all the things we are obsessional diabetes and dementia; that having and moisturising. But if we happily
about in Britain, our teeth, let’s face plaque may be related not only to spend hundreds, thousands of pounds
it, are not historically among them. pre-term birth but also to erectile over the years on having our roots done,
According to a report the British dysfunction? Or that the bacteria in our legs lasered, fingernails gelled and, yes,
Dental Health Foundation published mouths are also in our colons, and teeth professionally whitened (which
this summer for National Smile Month, that our bodies are cross-infecting adds nothing to their intrinsic health),
one in three of us has never flossed, one constantly, which gives a whole new does that make sense?
in four has never used mouthwash and meaning to “poo breath”, as we call it in

f
another one in four doesn’t even bother our family. It makes sense. Even if only undamentally, everything comes
brushing twice a day (a third of men). on a subconscious level, a perfect smile, down to the brushing, so if it
The good news is that we are a lot in terms of how attractive others means glamorising the act, so
better at it than we were. According perceive you to be, is more important much the better,” says Susan Tanner,
to the latest figures at Mintel, Britain’s than your figure, your skin, even your the sparky co-founder of Dawood &
oral-care spending rate is growing at eyes – as studies conducted in 2014 by Tanner and creator of a new, slick line
a faster rate than it is in America, and the British Dental Health Foundation of “tooth cleansers”. After my session
in 2013 sales reached £1 billion. The confirm. Whether that translates to our with Jenny the hygienist – hurrah,
state of our teeth, it could be argued, is behaviour at the sink is another matter. nothing basically wrong, I’ve just got
a little like the state of our restaurants: Certainly from where I’m sitting, and I to floss a hell of a lot more, stop eating
they’ve come on in leaps since the work in a hugely self-aware industry, frozen grapes and kick the lemon-and-
Eighties. Look at the 24-hour smile- toothbrushing as a beauty ritual is in no hot-water habit (heat makes the acidity
makeover clinics on the high street way on the same pedestal as cleansing of lemon even stronger) – my kids and
and the array of toothpaste brands at I give them a bit of a test drive. There’s
Boots. When Americans gloat, as one based on the taste of lemon curd,
they tend to, I enjoy pointing out that one based on Fox’s Glacier Mints and
most of the joke teeth they sell in RADIUS a lime one Tanner hopes will remind
ECO
Hallowe’en costume shops are based TOOTHBRUSH, users of a mojito. Don’t know about
£9.99, AT
on those of an Appalachian hillbilly. WHOLE FOODS that, but there’s a kind of a Jelly Belly
Take my publisher friend Rebecca, mix’n’match feel to them, and they look
“obsessed with my teeth/mouth as nice on my bathroom cabinet shelf…
obvious ticket barrier/gateway to the “The reason behind creating them
rest of my/one’s body,” she emails, REINAST was that I wanted to move toothpaste
EVERLASTING
adding: “Bit like a dirty hallway is a TITANIUM away from basement healthcare and
TOOTHBRUSH,
sign the rest of the house is going to be FROM £2,283, into first-floor beauty,” explains Tanner,
a mess. Visit the hygienist every three REINAST.COM “because however much make-up a
months. Wish I made as much effort girl has got on, however much she has
with my hair.” Take my mother, whose spent on her moisturiser, if she has
medieval dental care as a child (drilling scummy teeth – urgh, when there is
blood on her apple core, for example
One in three of us has – she’s not beautiful any more, is she?”
never flossed, and one Perhaps Space NK needs to have
more groovy dental products on its
in four doesn’t bother shelves. Maybe the folks at Apple
brushing twice a day ORAL-B
PRO 6500
should butt in? Anything to get the
SMART population brushing more diligently.
SERIES,
by foot pedal and so forth) means that £249 There is definitely a trend in this
for as long as I can remember, she has direction. Look at the all-silicone Issa
spent at least 20 minutes every evening toothbrush put out by Foreo, which
doing her teeth, what with all the comes in a variety of bright colours, has
interstitial brushing, flossing, tongue a kind of Alessi vibe and sells for £149.
PHILIPS
scraping, mouthwashing and so on. SONICARE Or what about Quip, a super-cool
And while we are on the subject of DIAMOND toothbrush service that enables you to
CLEAN
mouthwashing, this craze for oil AMETHYST, get a new head delivered every three
£250
pulling – the ayurvedic practice of months. Then there’s the interactive
swilling with coconut oil – is it possible model brought out by Oral-B last year,
to conduct a conversation in Primrose the Pro 6500 with Bluetooth
Hill without it being mentioned? technology, which connects to your
(Evangelists of the brand Cocowhite smartphone and allows your dentist to
claim it cures gingivitis and hangovers peek at your brushing habits remotely
and whitens teeth almost as well as while customising your brush, setting
professional bleaching.) your target session lengths, recording
FOREO QUIP
On the other hand, are you sure you ISSA SILICONE TOOTHBRUSH data of previous sessions and so forth.
know how to brush correctly (the ELECTRIC DELIVERY And if that seems a little excessive, why
TOOTHBRUSH, PACKAGE,
optimum angle is at 45 degrees to the £149, AT LOOK FROM £8, not check out the free NHS-approved
FANTASTIC.COM GETQUIP.COM
teeth, like a flute)? Is it widely known app Brush DJ, which selects music
that infected gums have been linked to from your handheld device and >

267
VOGUEbeauty
plays it for exactly two minutes, the toothbrush slick. So slick, you could I saw, but let’s just say the day
recommended time you should spend almost imagine it on a shelf in Coco de when your microchipped toothbrush
on the act (as opposed to the 56 seconds Mer. (Is now the time to mention the will be able to warn you if you have
we typically think of as two minutes). Tingletip, as featured a while ago in the cancer or Alzheimer’s is not that
If you are into a manual toothbrush Daily Mail, a £9.99 glove-like device far off.
(and apparently 75 per cent of us you fit on to your toothbrush to turn it Forty-eight hours later and I am
are, including my Hollywood-toothed into a vibrator? Probably not.) For the back in London, standing in front of
stepson who gets dizzy using an electric moment, the Diamond Clean comes my bathroom mirror looking lovingly
one), there are some very swanky ones, in white, dusky pink, amethyst and at my brand-new Diamond Clean
including the Binchotan Charcoal black, but according to Wong, an toothbrush (those nice folk at Philips
model from Japan, which comes with a inky blue, inspired by the galactic gave me one), which takes pride of
holder made of stone, and the Koh-I- universe, is a possibility. Personalising, place between a new pot of Eve Lom
Noor, invented in Czechoslovakia in moodmatching is very big in the world Cleanser and my La Prairie Caviar
1930, with its faux- of toothbrush design Luxe eye cream. Counterintuitively,
tortoiseshell handle Your toothbrush right now. I chose the pink one. It’s so patronising,
and badger-hair Why, when and pink, but this shade seems less
bristles – just what
will be able to warn how we brush our Hello Kitty, more Hauser & Wirth
you imagine Lady you if Alzheimer’s teeth – these are (if you’ve seen the super-cool vintage
Mary using. Then
there is always the
is not that far off topics minutely,
that are
lovingly
Sixties bathroom suite the gallerists
have installed at Durslade Farmhouse
titanium Reinast, yours, complete with obsessed over here on the leafy Bothell in Bruton, Somerset, you’ll know what
detachable bristles, for £2,300. campus. As the day progresses all I mean). Another admission: I was
sorts of fun facts emerge. In Japan, for given a Zoom whitening treatment

t he Apple/BMW Factor. That example, the three-times-a-day habit


was definitely behind the Philips is so entrenched that it is perfectly
Sonicare Diamond Clean, which acceptable to brush and floss at the
comes with a rechargeable toothglass office; while at school, children have
and case with inbuilt USB connection little pegs upon which to hang their
that, for the moment, has me drinking
my black venti americano through
a straw and not going near red wine.
Instead of being a tedious necessity,
an afterthought to the more rewarding
and retails for £250. Kim and Kanye, toothbrushes. Japanese people, by the process of cleansing and moisturising,
Kris Jenner and family are all proud way, hold their toothbrushes differently the twice (sometimes thrice) daily
owners. “Our main purpose was to from us, like pencils or chopsticks. ritual, which now involves two types
design the most beautiful toothbrush in Our next port of call is the Innovation of dental floss, alcohol-free mouthwash
the world that would also deliver Centre, the Willy Wonka-like heart of and brushing for the full 120 seconds,
results,” says Raymond Wong, head of the operation, where the “toothbrush has become something I almost
design at Philips Oral Healthcare. “It nerds”, as the engineers are look forward to – will even, for the
took us over eight months to get the affectionately called, test products hell of it, string out. Perhaps I
handle right, to make it feel like ceramic before they go to market. One of them, should get the family colour-
and strip it of all superficial details. In a Greg Goddard, a bespectacled young coordinated ones so we can all engage
way,” he adds, “designing for Sonicare is fellow whose father helped create the in the act together.
a little like composing a haiku.” Space Shuttle, is showing us into the A “Jerry’s final thought” moment
Scroll forward and I am now 5,000 Life Lab, where the mechanical arm of here, though. Could toothbrushing
miles away from my bathroom, having Robbie the Robot – a real “live” robot in ever be elevated to the level of sexy?
just pitched up at the sprawling Bothell a cage – is brushing laboratory-grown Will Jenny the hygienist ever be on
campus of Philips Oral Healthcare in human plaque off its “teeth”. As a par with Teresa the facialist? Or
Seattle. After a coffee in the boardroom, Goddard proudly claims, he has Josh, the genius who colours my hair?
we head to the design department, watched more than 3,000 hours of live Could designers get in on the act,

PAUL BOWDEN; JAMES COCHRANE


where different-coloured Diamond toothbrushing, and there is nothing he with limited-edition handles by
Clean toothbrushes have been couldn’t tell you about what you do Stella, a pop-up toothbrush boutique
alluringly laid out in a row. Perhaps it when you’re engaging in the act. in Liberty? At a birthday lunch last
is the lighting, perhaps it is the fact The dog-eat-dog world that the Sunday I had a discreet look round
they have never been used, but gosh, as toothbrush industry has become the table at everyone’s teeth. It may
rechargeables go, is the Diamond Clean means that I can’t reveal everything not be such a wacky idea. Q
CAROLINA HERRERA

FINE lines
Lip liners, the most under-rated product in the beauty arsenal, are set to
make a return this autumn for two reasons: first, because the trend at shows
CHRISTIAN
such as Dolce & Gabbana and Marchesa was all about the precision-lined LOUBOUTIN
lip (or “counter-girl lips”, so-called because of the time, effort and beauty LIP DEFINER, £27

knowledge required to get them just right); and second, because Christian
Louboutin Beauty is launching a game-changing lip liner. Being famed for his
sky-high heels, Louboutin knows a thing or two about balance and precision,
and these liners are shaped and weighted for perfect application. NM

268
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Available at Argos, premium Boots, John Lewis and Very.co.uk.


Hair: Paul Edmonds
for Kérastase.
Make-up: Terry
Barber. Nails: Tinu
Bello. Props: Dawn
Weller. Styling:
Ursula Lake.
Models: Alys Hale,
Jennifer Messelier,
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First, a neat little camera called the
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VOGUEbeauty
Flyaways and static
hair can be hard to
keep under control –
tame any offending
If your gel strays by rubbing
tumble-drier sheets on
manicure has any static patches.
started to chip
before you
can get to the
salon to have
it removed,
manicurists TALKING SCENTS
When sniffing
don’t advocate lots of different
peeling it off fragrances in
yourself – but if succession,
perfume designer
you really can’t Azzi Glasser
help yourself, recommends you
smell your sleeve
manicurist Adam to clear your nose
Slee advises between each
you peel the scent. “It stops
you going ‘nose
gel horizontally blind,’” she says.
across your
nail bed, rather
than cuticle to
tip, to minimise
JAPONESQUE
damage. EYELASH
CURLERS, £20

Use your ears as a grooming aid: if you


get a blow-dry that’s too big and bouncy,
tuck hair behind your ears to deflate
volume fast. Alternatively, for the Cut
perfect, face-framing, Alexa Chung-style
kinks, hairstylist Roi Nadin advises
that you train your hair to sit behind Ultimate down on your
make-up routine with
this clever liner trick. Line
the ears (a spritz of spray will help);
when you release it, the kink will stay.
beauty your eyelash curlers with kohl
pencil, where the top part of the
curling clamp meets the root of
your lashes. As you curl, the

AND ALSO…
Hairspray can be
used to ward off
HACKS
Ingenious beauty tricks that are
liner will leave the perfect
imprint of liner on
your lash line.

mosquitoes according worth their weight in lipstick.


to Hairtrade.com, By Lauren Murdoch-Smith CLINIQUE
TYRONE LEBON; PAUL BOWDEN; SUDHIR PITHWA; JODY TODD

SKINNY STICK
which is good news IN LANKY
LAPIS, £15
when luggage is
limited. Let’s face it,
we’d all rather pack
our hairspray and
leave the insect RIMMEL
repellent behind. Doing at-home laser hair removal? A white kohl WHITE KOHL
EYE LINER
pencil drawn in a grid on the area you’re treating will PENCIL, £2.99
SHU UEMURA
DETAIL MASTER ensure you don’t miss a bit (don’t use a coloured
DIRECTIONAL FIXING
SPRAY, £22 pencil, though, or it will affect the treatment).
273
VOGUEbeauty
THE BIG CHILL
One of the
The hacker’s hoard
most frequently Arm yourselves with these
asked beauty time-saving beauty essentials
If your feet are questions is
ticklish when “How do I
remove fake
you’re having a tan?” Self-
pedicure, wiggle tanning expert
the toes on the James Read
Push your dye job
says the answer further with Josh Wood’s
opposite foot. The is in your fridge: paintbrush-style
distraction “Mix half a cup Blending Wand, £12.50,
for tell-tale roots
of milk, three
diminishes the tablespoons
sensation. of lime juice Strength in Color
and a wedge unites OPI’s most
covetable pink shades
of lemon and with its acclaimed
Coaxing freshly leave it for 45 strengthener Nail
pedicured feet into minutes to an Envy, £19.50
flip-flops is fraught with hour to let the
disaster – but not if you AHAs [alpha A black eyeliner
shut your eyes. Letting hydroxy acids] is an absolute
super-charge staple. Use it
your toes “feel” their to define eyes,
way relies on instinct, before applying thicken brows
so you’re less likely to the area. or even fill
The natural in roots on
to overthink the process concoction darker hair
and smudge nails. will gently strip O&M Conquer
Blonde, £25,
away the tan.” preserves the cool
tones that are
synonymous with
salon-fresh hair
4711 MAX
EAU DE FACTOR
COLOGNE, LASTING
£17.49 COLOUR
LIPSTICK IN
RAISIN,
ROOTS REVIVAL £6.99
Hairstylist and self-confessed
perfume addict Adam Reed
carries a bottle of 4711 Original
eau de cologne with him at all
times. “My grandmother taught All it takes is a little
me that if you splash a cotton soap and water to
remove Nails Inc
handkerchief with 4711 and rub The technology in lipsticks H2Go Wash Off
it on your roots, it refreshes now means they are made Polish, £14
and cleanses hair. A great to last up to 12 hours,
emergency alternative to dry sometimes longer. Great
shampoo. It also works if you’ve
news when you want your No 7 takes the
overloaded on hair product.
Rub it into hair with your hands lipstick to last all day; not so guesswork out of
great when it comes to shade selecting
and it’ll break the product as Match Made
down. Similarly, if you’ve been removing it. Slick Vaseline Blush, £8, joins its
left with a dye-stain halo around over lips, wipe away and in-store service
your hairline, use a cotton pad strong pigments will DANIEL JACKSON; PAUL BOWDEN; JODY TODD
soaked with 4711 to break disappear more easily.
down the colour stain.”

Not
a natural when If you crave volume and know you won’t Bumble & Bumble’s
Don’t Blow It lightweight
it comes to creating have time to wash your hair (or get to the styler gives you sleek
a neat, extended line of hair, even without
hairdresser for a blow-dry), apply dry blow-drying. £12
eyeliner? Use a credit card to
guide you in the right, straight shampoo before you go to bed. The powder
direction. Foolproof and easy will absorb and work to help volumise your
– just think of it as plastic roots as you move around in your sleep.
paying you back in
beauty credit. 1-day Acuvue Define
CHANEL contact lenses enhance,
LE CRAYON intensify and brighten
KHOL IN your own natural eye
NOIR, £17 colour. £45.50 for 30 pairs

274
VOGUEbeauty

UPSCALE nails
Minky greys, chalky blues and soft lilacs
make up this season’s discreetly expensive-looking
nail-polish palette. By Lauren Murdoch-Smith

1 2

8
9

10

11 12

1. NAILBERRY IN MYSTERE, £14.50, NAILBERRY.CO.UK 2. SMITH & CULT IN


STOCKHOLM SYNDROME, £19, AT SPACE NK 3. GIVENCHY IN CROISIERE
AQUATIQUE, £16.50, 01932 233824 4. DIOR IN JUNON, £19, DIOR.COM 13
5. OPI IN IT NEVER ENDS, £13.95, AT BOOTS 6. TOM FORD IN BLACK SUGAR,
£27, AT SELFRIDGES 7. DOLCE & GABBANA IN ANTIQUE ROSE, £20, AT
HARRODS 8. BURBERRY IN STONE BLUE, £15, BURBERRY 9. CHANEL IN
LA BASE, £18, 020 7493 3836 10. BOBBI BROWN IN GREIGE, £12.50, AT
PAUL BOWDEN

SELFRIDGES 11. SOIGNE IN FEUILLAGE, £11, SOIGNENAILS.COM 12. KURE


BAZAAR IN NILE, £15, AT FORTNUM & MASON 13. MICHAEL KORS IN BLUSH,
£15.50, AT ESCENTUAL.COM

279
VOGUEbeauty CREME DE LA MER
THE RENEWAL OIL,
£155 (0870 034
2566)

TRESEMME OLEO
RADIANCE CREAMY
MOISTURISER MASK, £6.99

BOBBI BROWN

ISABEL MARANT
INTENSE
PIGMENT EYE
LINER IN BLACK
PLUM, £26.50

OMOROVICZA
MIRACLE FACIAL
OIL, £75 SOIGNE
COUVERT, £11,
SOIGNENAILS.COM

COVER FX CUSTOM
INFUSION DROPS C +
LEMONGRASS, £40,
AT SPACE NK Oil refinement THE BODY SHOP
OILS OF LIFE INTENSELY
REVITALISING GEL
CREAM, £25

t hese days everyone knows how good oils are for


hair and skin, but that doesn’t stop them seeming a
bit sticky, greasy and messy. That’s why we welcome
this new generation of oils, which you can either add
neat to your existing products or buy ready-infused into
oils for specific purposes, including C + Lemongrass for
radiance and E + Chamomile for calming.
High-street beauty brands have traditionally found
customers reluctant to use neat oils, but this means some
of the most innovative infusions are the best priced, too.
traditional face and hair creams. Crème de la Mer is so L’Oréal Elvive Extraordinary Oil-in-Cream, £6.99, is a
keen on the idea of DIY skincare that it has launched its
first ever oil – add to the original crème or foundation, or
beautiful leave-in cream for dry hair (tie into a ponytail,
then smooth through for nourishment and sleekness) and
Make-up
apply neat to cuticles, brows and flyaways. Omorovicza is Tresemmé Oleo Radiance is a rinse-out hair mask with to buy
encouraging the same polymath approach with its new
Miracle Facial Oil, which comes in a satisfyingly super-
argan and almond oils. We’re also seriously impressed
with the Body Shop’s new Oils of Life skincare range, for
THIS
sized bottle for endless play time. Meanwhile skincare which anti-ageing seed oils are infused into a cream, MONTH
brand Cover FX goes further with a selection of addable essence lotion and even a super-light gel. LM-S We’re all about
channelling the
London drizzle:
think grey with
grandeur
ESTEE LAUDER’S DOUBLE WEAR GUERLAIN PARURE GOLD COMPACT
FOUNDATION has the kind of fervent FOUNDATION, £56, is a pressed-
fanbase that can never be without powder reformulation of its
it, so the maison has now created predecessor, with iridescence and
the Makeup To Go Liquid Compact, hexapeptides to encourage elasticity.
£33, a clever mess-free dispenser. We love the cute sliding case, too.

GIVENCHY TEINT COUTURE BALM,


£29, strikes the balance between
good coverage and a weightless
finish. It fuses with skin’s natural
tone and contains reflective diamond
powder to blur imperfections.

DIOR
DIORADDICT
FLUID
SHADOW
IN 655
UNIVERS, £25

THE NEXT
FOUNDATION
PAUL BOWDEN; JAMES COCHRANE

CHARLOTTE TILBURY’S MAGIC


GIORGIO ARMANI CREMA NUDA, FOUNDATION, £29.50, has been five
£145, is a luxury face cream/ years in the making and claims
foundation hybrid with blurring to treat problems such as acne,
pigments for an unbelievably rosacea and wrinkles, as well as
velvety, flattering finish. providing flawless coverage.

280
VOGUEbeauty
But history aside, it’s the cornucopia
of hard-to-find healthcare supplies
that make John Bell & Croyden an
utter gem. Its proximity to Harley
Street means that its medical stock
is unrivalled – it is the only place
in the country where you can buy
an anatomically correct skeleton
on the spot, should the need arise –
and it’s an insider hotspot for
the latest beauty trends (it was
I A R E N A I SS
OSK AN the first place in Britain to
CE
stock French pharmacy

M
AS
favourite Bioderma).

K,
£48
To accompany the

. 5 0 , GENTLY S
revamp, it will be

NT S K I N
The pharmacy
opened on Oxford showcasing a new
Street in 1798. selection of beauty

D IA
It moved to treats: Dr Jackson’s

TI M
RA
Wigmore Street
first body product,

UL
R
in 1912 FO
AT
E
Baobab and Rose Oil;
SC
TI C
N
IO
GE N
ELL
R EG EN ER AT
LO
A P O ES I N A BOX O LD the Renaissance range from
N D G
Y U O M OO AT
I A B 0 , C A -W C A R Oskia, made entirely of bio-
B ERB Y, £65 B I N G H 24 -
S O XU R N B U W I T
LU RI CA ATED available nutrients; and Soberbia by
A F CO R
DE Unapologetic Luxury, the world’s
first multifunctional foundation
capable of auto-adapting to
environmental conditions.
Nigel Howard, John Bell &
Croyden’s longest-serving employee,
celebrated 40 years with the company
last August. “When I arrived for
my interview, I expected a little
corner-shop pharmacy,” he says. “To

The cabinet of say I was blown away would be


an understatement.” Q

CURIOSITIES
Royalty, beauty insiders and medics all rely on one
A photograph
of the original
interior, with
18th-century
particular pharmacy. Lottie Winter visits an institution apothecary jars

O
phthalmoscopes. Swarovski- from these very jars,” says the
encrusted mobility scooters. pharmacy’s operations director, Robin
Every imaginable flavour of Winfield.) You can also browse the
Marvis toothpaste (cinnamon mint, “royal journal”; John Bell & Croyden
anyone?). John Bell & Croyden, has held the royal warrant for more
the legendary chemist on Wigmore than a century and has diligently
A BLEND OF
Street in London, has been going recorded each visit from a member MACADAMIA
SEED OIL,
for more than 200 years, but this year of the royal family. When Princess ORGANIC
it’s getting a makeover. Victoria popped in for AHAS AND
BIO-AVAILABLE
The Seventies suspended
ceilings have been
It is the sole cold cream or Queen
Alexandra ran out of
FERMENTED
MINERALS IN
OSKIA’S HAND
stripped back to reveal keeper of the smokers’ pastilles, their CREAM, £21,
MAKES AN
original coving, the
old apothecary jars –
oil that anoints order was written in
the journal. In fact,
INTENSELY
NOURISHING
TREATMENT
all hand-painted with new monarchs John Bell & Croyden is
names such as “liquorice the sole keeper of the THE BAOBAB IN
JOSH OLINS; PAUL BOWDEN;

DR JACKSON’S
jujube” and “camphora” – have been anointing oil – a secret blend used BAOBAB AND
ROSE OIL, £70,
reinstated. (“Back in 1798, there to consecrate every new monarch. IMPROVES SKIN
would have been a boy sitting in the The current batch, blended 15 years TONE AND
PIXELATE.BIZ

ELASTICITY
shop window with a pestle and mortar, ago, is locked away in a wax-sealed WHILE
MINIMISING
mixing prescriptions with ingredients bottle ready for the next coronation. SCARRING

282
LET'S DEFEAT BREAST CANCER.

WE RE
STRONGER
TOGETHER.
Every action counts.
Join us at BCAcampaign.com
#BCAstrength

Supporting education and medical research.


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285
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Astonishing
PANORAMIC VIEWS
LOWER DOWDESWELL, COTSWOLDS
Cheltenham: 4 miles, Kingham: 15 miles (London Paddington
90 minutes), Cirencester: 16 miles James Walker
Savills London Country Department
Grade II listed Georgian house, 4 reception rooms, 7 bedrooms, 020 3417 8393
4 bathrooms, traditional stone outbuildings, coach house, tennis jwalker@savills.com
court, spring fed infinity pool and sauna, walled garden, orchard,
Christian Swaab
paddock I about 6.5 acres Savills Cheltenham
01242 300737
Price on Application cswaab@savills.com

savills.co.uk
3523(57< 352027,21

675$7(*,&$//< Example TBS acquisition – Soho Square

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“The tail end of the year is traditionally not the “The end of the year also affords us the best
optimum time to sell – and conversely one of access to off-market opportunities,” reports
the best times to buy,” advises Philip Eastwood partner Rachel Thompson. “We work with
who heads The Buying Solution’s London more than 400 selling agents in prime central
team (TBS). “The sentiment amongst sellers and prime outer London, many of whom alert
changes in the run up to Christmas. The us to properties before they come to the market. Philip Eastwood
weather is grim, the days are short, viewings Owners often appoint selling agents to value Below: Sam McArdle,
are down and vendors’ expectations are low; their property before Christmas in good time Rachel Thompson,
chances are their property came to the market for the early spring market. We tell our clients Jonathan Mount.
early in September and since then they may what will be coming on well before other
not have received any offers,” explains senior buyers see it advertised. Year on year, the team
buying consultant Sam McArdle. “Not only is secures some 40% of clients’ properties off-
the property beginning to look stale, but there’s market, of which 44 % are typically acquired
that feeling it’s missed the market.” in November and December.”
“We ensure our clients are in a position to Those buyers who query the wisdom of not
capitalise on vendors’ pre-Christmas anxieties,” waiting for the New Year’s fresh properties
says partner Jonathan Mount. “Those sellers should know that, in TBS’s experience,
who seek closure and are looking to move on approximately 20% more buyers register their
and draw that proverbial ‘line in the sand’ will interest for every listing that comes on in the
invariably be more receptive to offers.” They early spring.
may also be encouraged to do so by their selling “At TBS we are employed by clients to
agent who, come December, is more motivated search for and acquire property ranging from
to close deals and hit targets. approximately £750,000 investments to £100
“Another bonus is that the best mortgage million plus principal homes,” says Philip
products are often available in the final months Eastwood. “Whatever your budget, if the
of the year,” continues Jonathan. “Ironically ‘right’ property is proving elusive in the The Buying Solution is the independent
banks, which are often targeted to lend a autumn market, do not hold off until next UK buying consultancy of Knight Frank.
certain amount during a calendar year, will year to resume your search. Our track record To contact the London team call Philip Eastwood
offer their best rates in November and is proof that over the next couple of months it on 020 7591 2640, or for the Country team
December in order to attract new business. is possible to procure the best property at the call Jonathan Bramwell on 01488 657912.
This was certainly the case in 2014.” optimum price.” Visit www.thebuyingsolution.co.uk
Advertisement Feature

AN Iconic
OPPORTUNITY
Advertisement Feature

Claire Pilton discovers


what makes this brand
new neighbourhood
different from any
other development.

B
attersea Power Station is on track to
become the most exciting and most
creative urban quarter the capital has
ever seen.

With nearly 4,000 new homes, over 250 shops, cafés


and restaurants, three hotels, 1.6 million sq ft of
WKHPRVWH[FLWLQJRIÀFHVSDFHDFUHVRI SDUNV
and gardens, 450 metres of River Thames
frontage, riverbus services and jetty, and with
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project will be within 15 minutes of the City and
West End. Just a short walk from Chelsea and
Sloane Square, Battersea Power Station will
deliver a proper 24-hour community where people
really do live, work and play.

So committed is Battersea Power Station to creating


a new neighbourhood that it has produced its own
‘Community Charter’ and ‘Placebook’, a blueprint for the
team’s pledge to create and then nurture a genuine and vibrant
community where people want to live, bring up their families and
enjoy life to the full.
Advertisement Feature Christian Bale,
as Batman,
on location at
Battersea Power
Station

A celebrity
following
As an international icon, Battersea Power Station is recognised the world over. Fashioned to a
decadent Art Deco design in the aspiring 1930’s, this industrial diamond has fostered a star-studded
following. Shortly after it began providing electricity to light up the likes of Buckingham Palace,
Carnaby Street and the Houses of Parliament, the Power Station made its
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It has also hosted an Alexander McQueen fashion show and, as one of the
nation’s favourite buildings, was amongst the chosen seven selected to here performing
represent London at the 2012 Olympics closing ceremony. at the launch event
Pink Floyd with their famous in NYC. He and
¶Á\LQJSLJ·´$QLPDOVμDOEXP his wife Trudie
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+DZNZLQG7KH-DP6XSHU
Styler were among
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Rihanna, Beyonce, and Bear
Beckinsale
Grylls have all tapped into or
apartment.
at the
performed at this world
global
IDPRXV¶YHQXH·6LU(OWRQ-RKQ
launch
who played at the 2014 Power Station residential launch
event in
event, was the last person to perform before the site closed
LA with
for redevelopment.
BPSDC
CEO Rob Adventurer
1RZ%DWWHUVHD3RZHU6WDWLRQ
7LQFNQHOO Bear Grylls
is waiting in the wings for its
PRVWH[FLWLQJUROH\HW:KHQLW and his family
reopens, with a purpose-built have purchased
2,000 capacity events venue a property at
inside the Power Station, the the Battersea
opportunity to create and Power Station
experience amazing events, development
exhibitions and concerts will
PDNHWKLV7+(QHZJRLQJRXW
venue for London. Roll out the
red carpet…

Sir Elton John at


the launch event
Advertisement Feature

RETAIL
Renaissance
What makes a great destination or a great place?
An eclectic choice of local shops alongside international brands, cafés, restaurants
and bars …eye catching buildings, historic and contemporary …cultural
experiences …green open spaces. Battersea Power Station is that destination.
A whole new destination is being created
across the 42-acre development. A new
QHLJKERXUKRRGZKHUH\RXZLOOÀQGDQDUUD\
of shops, bars and restaurants, all in one place.
Circus West, at Battersea Power Station will be
a mix of refurbished railway arches and new
retail units that face the Power Station and the
River Thames, providing village shops and
ORFDOUHWDLOHUVWKHÁRULVWWKHEDNHUWKHEXWFKHU
and the Battersea General Store, together with
artisan coffee shops, bistros and a village pub.

The Power Station’s six-acre foot-print


will, over three levels, accommodate nearly
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British brands alongside world-renowned
retailers and emerging concepts. There will
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impressive 40,000 sq ft urban food hall
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There will also be a boutique cinema, a 2,000
capacity events venue and a members club
with bedrooms.

CGI showing the view north from Electric Boulevard

(OHFWULF%RXOHYDUGPD\QRWORRNOLNHDWUDGLWLRQDOKLJK
street with its Gehry Partners and Foster + Partners
designed buildings, but it will be the place to shop.
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street operators will sit alongside a selection of cafés,
contemporary family restaurants and ‘signature’ restaurants.

Battersea Power Station is an internationally recognised


British brand in its own right. This innovative new
neighbourhood promises to combine the best that
London has to offer with the best that the world brings
to London.
CGI of
Circus West
Advertisement Feature

Main image: Circus West


Inset image: David Linley in the
Power Station’s Control Room A

Designer line up
The design team behind Battersea Power Station is world class. Rafael Viñoly’s Masterplan
will be realised by a host of leading architects, interior and landscape designers from Gehry
Partners and Michaelis Boyd Associates to Andy Sturgeon and LINLEY.

A
t the launch of his eponymous Occupying one of the best positions industrial materials gives a modern
business in 1985, David Linley right on the waterfront, the club pays nod to the past. A tubular stairwell
was hailed for creating ‘antiques tribute to the inspiring ethos that drives that echoes the world-famous fluted
of the future’. The company’s this community-focused development. chimneys, ascends to a reception area,
international reputation for delivering Residents who do not have a river view a bar and private dining rooms; that may
British craftsmanship at its best is in or a view of the Power Station from their be rented by residents who can appoint
keeping with its appointment at one of the homes can still enjoy one from this their chosen chef or order off menu
nation’s favourite buildings. In addition to magnificently appointed amenity space. from any of Battersea Power Station’s
the eleven penthouses at SimpsonHaugh restaurants. The top floor provides a
and Partners’ river-fronting ‘Circus West’, Extending to 5,000 sq ft, the Residents’ library with workstations, comfortable
LINLEY has designed Battersea Power Club is entered through a glazed sofas and meeting areas, a pantry and
Station’s private Residents’ Club. triple-height lobby where the use of a screening room.
Advertisement Feature

AVAILABILITY
A selection of 1, 2, 3 and 4 bedroom homes available.

2
4
3
1. CGI of a Circus West
penthouse with stunning
riverfront views
2. CGI of a home at
Battersea Roof Gardens
3. CGI of a home at
Prospect Place
4. CGI of a home at
Boiler House Square

For further information visit


batterseapowerstation.co.uk
bpsestates.co.uk
Battersea Power Station
Call the sales team on 020 7501 0678 and view 188 Kirtling Street
the new show apartments at The Pavilion at London
Battersea Power Station SW8 5BN
DASHWOOD

SLEEPERS HILL, WINCHESTER, HAMPSHIRE

A N E X C E P T I O N A L S I X B E D R O O M H O M E S E T I N B E A U T I F U L LY
L A N D S C A P E D G A R D E N S AT A G U I D E P R I C E O F £ 3 . 5 M I L L I O N

O N E O F O N LY T H R E E N E W D E TA C H E D P R O P E RT I E S
AT T H I S E X C L U S I V E L O C AT I O N

EDMUND HOUSE LAUNCHING AUTUMN 2015

KNIGHTLEY HAS ALREADY BEEN SOLD

VIEW THE NEW VIRTUAL TOUR ON OUR WEBSITE

To register your interest, please contact our joint agents:

S AV I L L S PEARSONS
01962 841842 01962 853344
J K E N N E R L E Y @ S AV I L L S . C O M WINCHESTER@PEARSONS.COM W W W. A L F R E D H O M E S . C O . U K
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

Prime
LIVING
When Louise (known as Boo) Good was
appointed to head up Savills Super Prime
Lettings department earlier this year it was
just like coming home

aving run a large Knightsbridge


and Chelsea portfolio for 24
years before joining Savills
Kensington in 2013, she certainly
knows the territory.
“It was great to be back in my old
stomping ground, and having a
thorough understanding of the market really
helps us deliver the level service our clients require,”
says Louise. “But we’re also unique in that we’re
part of a network of central London offices,
supported by a global company, which ensures
we always have the best properties and the
best tenants.”
The mother of twin girls, Louise understands
only too well the challenges faced by families
relocating to London. But the real key to her
success, she believes, is that she is able to
offer a boutique service, based on her own 26
years of experience and the experience of her
dedicated team. “Everything we do is bespoke
because every client is different. It’s not always properties rented out at or above £15,000 per wheres. “A lot of our landlords are publicity
about finding somewhere for a family moving week has more than doubled,” says Louise. averse, so we let their properties ‘off-market’
to London on a three-year contract. Sometimes Around 69 per cent of Savills super prime – the only way anyone will hear about them is
clients might already own a London home, lettings in 2013 were to international tenants. by coming and talking to us.”
but need to move out while Much of the demand is “I care very much about finding the right
they’re having it refurbished. still driven by Russians, so property for the right tenant,” says Louise.
They might already know
“I care very much it helps that Savills has a “We work with relocation agents and property
the area, or they might about finding the dedicated Russian Desk, finders. We talk regularly to Savills Corporate
know nothing about it at
all. We’re here to help with
right property for staffed by native speakers, at
its London head offices. “As
Services department which specialises in
corporate relocation. If the super prime
every aspect.” the right tenant” with Savills other foreign property is out there, we will find it.”
The super prime lettings desks, the Russian desk not
market – defined as properties commanding only speaks the language, but understands
in excess of £4,000 per week, but generally the cultural differences. That’s an enormous
a lot more – is certainly buoyant. “Super advantage, both for us and many of our Louise Good
prime lettings occupies its own micro-market. clients,” says Louise. Director
It wasn’t affected by the general election. In Louise regularly lets some of the finest and Super Prime Lettings
fact, this year we’ve seen an uplift in business most fashionable addresses in London, but lgood@savills.com
of 15 per cent, year-on-year. The number of remains discreet about the whats and the +44 (0)20 7535 2953
condenastjohansens.com
Cheval Three Quays, London, UK
Byways, Friary Road, Ascot, Berkshire, SL5 9HD
ONE MAGNIFICENT HOME. 7 BEDROOMS PLUS STAFF APARTMENT.
0.6 ACRES OF MANICURED GROUNDS. LIFESTYLE EXQUISITE. LOCATION PERFECT.
7700 sqft • Triple garage • Swift access to the M25 and M3 • Sunningdale and Wentworth Golf
courses nearby • Close to Ascot Racecourse • Close to the International School
Price on application

Call Bewley Homes 01344 626 959


or Edwards & Elliot 01344 876 363
Email ascot@bewley.co.uk or visit www.bewley.co.uk
PROPERTY

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Elevated London living built on a reputation of excellence
The Penthouse Collection, Prices from £5,999,950*

Chelsea Creek Show Apartments and Marketing Suite


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Proud to be a member of the Berkeley Group of companies
Computer generated image is indicative only. *Price correct at time of going to press.
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mind’sEYE The
flavour of this
ice cream is very
suited to Japanese
tastes. It’s delicious
and really
surprising

JAPANESE
ICE OUCA
ICE-CREAM,
ICE-OUCA.COM

The
Tokyo café
Yoku Moku is
close to my studio.
It’s a calm place
SACAI
MEN’S COTTON with lots of
T-SHIRT, £390,
AT DOVER
green
STREET MARKET

NIKELAB
& SACAI
LEATHER
HI-TOPS, £160

You
can tell this
botanical sculpture I
is by Azuma visited the
Makoto just by Miyako Islands
looking at it with my family last
month. Pure
beauty

Chitose Abe
THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF SACAI
REVEALS WHAT’S INSPIRING HER NOW

SOPHIE BILLE BRAHE


FROM THE DIAMOND EARRING,
THEATRES SERIES, BY £1,980, AT DOVER
HIROSHI SUGIMOTO STREET MARKET

Hiroshi
thinks about
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concept. When you
view his work, you
feel a tension in
MONTBLANC M
FOUNTAIN PEN, your heart
£385, AT
HARRODS

This
scent by
SHIINOKI; HIROSHI SUGIMOTO/COURTESY PACE GALLERY

Dr Vranjes is
COMPILED BY NAOMI SMART. JASON LLOYD-EVANS;

unlike anything
MITCHELL SAMS; GETTY; KATSUHIDE MORIMOTO;

else
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covered Y-Chair
SACAI

DR VRANJES by Gelchop in my
SMYTHSON ROSSO
LEATHER NOBILE Hong Kong store.
PASSPORT DIFFUSER,
FROM £45,
Mixing unexpected
COVER, £125
DRVRANJES. materials is Sacai’s
COM
philosophy
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Edie Campbell THE NEW EAU DE TOILETTE