Compost Manual .......... A complete guide to composting.

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Compost Manual
What Is Composting?
Compost is decayed, organic plant matter. Composting is the result of a complex
feeding pattern where aerobic microbes (bacteria and fungi that thrive on oxygen) feed
on organic waste and break it down into a nutritious soil amendment. As the compost is
mixed and aerated, these organic materials break down into a rich substance the same
way that plants decay and are recycled in any ecosystem. This in turn creates fluffy,
arable soil known as humus. All organic matter breaks down into compost over time, but
the decomposition process on its own can take quite a while. Composting creates a
controlled environment to rapidly convert waste into a powerful, nutrient-rich matter that
is ideal in your garden, on your lawn, or in your potted plants.

Along with fuel efficiency, water conservation, and reduction in meat consumption,
home composting is one of the most environmentally beneficial activities you can
participate in. Yard and food waste make up approximately thirty percent of the waste
stream in the U.S. If every household participated in composting, it would divert a
significant portion of the waste stream from our landfills and water treatment facilities. If
you combined composting with recycling cans, newspapers, and plastic, you could
reduce your waste flow by almost fifty percent! By composting, you are preventing our
crowded landfills from overflowing and giving something back to nature.

Proper compost is an incredibly nutritious soil amendment, buffering the pH and

retaining moisture and oxygen in the soil. It can cool the soil surface and help mitigate
erosion by encouraging a vigorous root system boosted by nitrogen, potassium,
phosphorus and other nutrients. Composting helps control and suppress plant
pathogens, as well as provide food for microorganisms, which keep the soil healthy and
balanced. It improves the structure of problematic soils, breaking up heavy clay soils
and retaining water better in sandy soils. Compost is chemical free—children and pets
can enjoy the beautiful bounty of your organic lawn without exposure to toxins or
synthetic products, making it an excellent, cheaper alternative to commercial fertilizers.

Homeowners everywhere are starting to realize how convenient and economical it is to

compost waste they would have otherwise thrown away. Why buy premium topsoil
when you create your own endless supply for free? Home composting also serves as an
invaluable educational tool, teaching children about conservation, the cycle of life, and
the inter-connectedness of the natural world. If it gets your child thinking about science
or biology, or voluntarily participating in yard work, it’s well worth the effort!
How To Compost
Composting is a dynamic process; it takes skill and the ideal conditions to aid the
decomposition process. The good news is that decomposition naturally occurs with or
without your help, so half the battle already won. Once you understand the major factors
behind composting, you can apply them to adjust your efforts and turn your compost
bin, tumbler, or open pile into an efficient composting machine.

The real trick is to get your pile to decompose as fast as you can fill it. When you
neglect your compost pile, it will decompose very slowly, otherwise known as “passive
composting”. Fast or “active” composting can happen much more quickly because the
aerobic bacteria breakdown much faster. Passive composting involves little energy or
effort, but takes much longer. Active composting, on the other hand, requires a bit more
work but yields results faster. How you compost depends on your needs. If you want to
produce as much compost as possible, you want to be actively managing your compost.
If you are looking to get rid of yard waste, go with passive composting.

The rate at which breakdown occurs depends on several factors: oxygenation,

temperature, water content, particulate surface area, and the carbon to nitrogen ratio. If
you pay attention to these things, the temperature will rise to around 130-140 degrees,
ensuring rapid decomposition. Moisture is key—your compost should feel damp, but
never wet. When it’s over inoculated, it limits the oxygen that bacteria require. The rule
of thumb is that it should be as wet as a well-wrung sponge. Similarly, if your compost is
too dry, bacteria cannot survive, thereby slowing down the decomposing process. If
your pile doesn’t heat up, it’s possible that your compost pile is too wet, too dry, or there
is not enough protein (greens). You can measure the temperature with a compost
thermometer.

Aeration is equally important, as your compost needs oxygen to decompose. Keep your
compost pile breathing by turning it by hand with a pitchfork. A compost tumbler takes
out this step by aerating the compost for you as it tumbles in the bin. Look for ones with
vents on the side to keep your compost properly aerated. If you don’t have a compost
tumbler, try a metal aerator that will help take some of the work out of turning the pile.

Almost all organic material works in a compost pile. You’re aiming for a good balance
between carbon-rich matter (“browns”) and nitrogen-rich materials (“greens”). Brown
materials are things like dried leaves, wood chips and straw, whereas greens
constituted grass clippings and kitchen scraps. Active composting requires finding the
right mix for your compost pile. Ideally, the ratio is 25:1 (25 parts brown to 1 part green),
but it can vary—too much carbon will slow the process, while too much nitrogen will
cause odor. This is where owning a chipper shredder is quite handy, since you need
leaves and wood chips for browns. It also may be worth it to save yard waste, because
as the seasons change, it becomes harder to find what you need. Although you can
compost all year long, the decomposition rate will slow down as temperatures drop.
Consider stockpiling winter organics in a covered container stored outside so you can
add them to your compost bin or tumbler in the spring. Store fallen leaves from autumn
in bags that you can use later during the spring and summer; likewise, keep grass
clipping and other greens around during the winter months (they can last about one to
two weeks).

Choosing a good composting site will help speed up the process. Start building your
compost over soil or lawn instead of on a patio so you can take advantage of
earthworms and microbes. Look for an area that’s level and well-drained. If you’re
adding kitchen scraps, keep it near the back door, but not so far away you’ll forget it’s
there. If you live in a cooler climate, put the pile in a sunny spot so it can trap solar heat,
and find it some shelter during the winter months so the decaying process doesn’t slow
down. If you live in a warmer climate, keep the pile in a shadier spot so it won’t dry out.
And remember to look for a spot that will allow you to compost unobtrusively; try to
distance it from the neighbor’s yard and put up visual barriers. A compost bin will keep it
contained, and is easier to manage than an open compost pile.

Shredded organic materials heat up and decompose faster. The smaller the composting
pieces, the faster the pile with decay. Add new materials, remembering to layer them.
Mixing distributes microorganisms evenly allows for faster decomposition at the same
time, so that there is a more balanced carbon to nitrogen rate, as well as better moisture
and air migration. The goal is to create an active, hot batch of compost, so the more
effort you put into your pile, the more black gold you’re going to get!

After you’ve attained the right mix of browns and greens, the right amount of moisture,
and the ideal aeration and heat from turning, your batch of compost will be well on its
way to becoming the soil amendment your plants so desperately crave. However, it
would be irresponsible to give an exact time frame for when waste becomes humus, as
several factors will impact how quickly breakdown occurs. Peak seasons for composting
are spring and autumn, when the atmosphere is warm and damp. Piles created during
this time, with shredded materials that are frequently aerated, can be ready in
approximately 2-4 months. Properly tended soft waste in warm weather can take as little
as 4-6 weeks. Piles prepared in the winter or late fall, created with larger or tougher
pieces of waste, or left unattended, will take longer to decay.

When your compost is done, it will be approximately half of its original size. You should
not be able to discern individual items you placed in the bin. Look for a dark color,
crumbly texture, and earthy smell. Slimy compost is a sign that the process was done
incorrectly at some point. If you experience trouble with clumps or mats, organize your
organic wastes into thinner layers, and use aerators or a pitchfork to work your pile.

Many people think that composting is a smelly process—it’s not true! If you properly
manage your compost pile, you should not be producing offensive odors. Compost
should have an earthy, pleasant smell similar to a forest floor after rain. If you do smell
something suspicious, odor problems are easily fixed, so don’t become discouraged.
Soon after your compost pile is established, you should begin seeing sundry little
critters throughout the pile contents. These helpers, which usually migrate from other
parts of the garden or the soil beneath the pile, can range from arthropods and flying
insects to microorganisms like bacteria and fungi. Don’t be alarmed! They are all part of
the soil-borne community that is critical to the decomposition process. Do not attempt to
eradicate or remove these beneficial creatures, and do not use any chemicals or sprays
that would normally harm them. Let them flourish and your compost will flourish with
them. If possible, use rainwater from a rain barrel to moisten the pile, as chlorinated
municipal water sources can slow down the natural rate of breakdown.

For your convenience, we’ve provided a chart describing the factors that could affect
your compost. Use it as a quick reference and guide:
Factors
Affecting description
Rate
Oxygen is required for respiration by all aerobic inhabitants
within the pile. Aerobic microbes decompose waste at a
faster rate than their anaerobic brethren, and would not
produce the foul odors associated with anaerobic
decomposition. Adequate ventilation and manually turning or
Oxygenation
mixing your pile with aerators or pile turners twice a month
increases its rate of decomposition. An unmixed pile may
take three to four times longer before it breaks down. If purely
manual mixing is not to your fancy, you can invest in a
compost tumbler that aerates by turning.
Heat is a byproduct of decomposition and accelerates the
process. The optimum temperature for fast decomposition is
between 90 and 135 degrees F. Whether it is due to cold
climate or insufficient bacterial activity, when the temperature
Temperature
falls below this, decomposition will slow, but not cease. To
keep temperatures elevated, try an insulation jacket or better
placement for maximizing radiant solar heat. Also choose
black colored bins in cooler climate zones.
An efficient composter needs to have a moisture content of
approximately 50% (it should feel like a damp towel) for
microbial activity. If it is too dry, decomposition will slow down
considerably, while overly wet piles can trigger anaerobic
Water Content conditions and begin to smell. Keep the pile covered during
heavy rains, so that valuable nutrients are not washed away.
Add rain water from your rain barrel when dry spells occur
(chlorine in municipal water can kill the organisms in your
living system).
Maximize this by shredding and chipping all clippings and
waste into small pieces with a chipper/shredder. The more
Surface Area
surface area you expose for microorganisms to attack, the
faster the decomposition.
 Organic materials rich in nitrogen are referred to as GREENS
(fresh veggie scraps or grass clippings), while the others can
Carbon: be lumped together as BROWNS (hay, twigs, dried leaves).
Nitrogen Ratio A good general rule of thumb is use 2-3 parts brown to 1 part
green. When initially building your pile, always remember to
layer, layer, layer! Alternating layers ensures proper mixing.

Let’s review how to setup a composting station:

1. Choose a moderately sunny, accessible area for your composter. If you’re using
a compost bin, turn the soil in your chosen location.
2. Start your green and brown layering process, beginning with a layer of small
branches at the bottom that will allow for proper circulation and drainage.
3. Top off your new pile with finished compost or good garden soil to ensure an
introduction of bacteria to your waste.
4. Aerate regularly by mixing, checking moisture content.

Harvest the finished compost, and you’re all set to enjoy a beautiful, healthy garden!

Dos and Don'ts

What to put in your compost bin:
Almost anything botanical will work in your compost bin. Dead leaves during fall are
outstanding, since they can help improve all soil types and aerate heavy clay soils. A
lawn sweeper is a good idea to help collect leaves—it’s much faster than raking and
picks up leftover foliage better. Tree limbs and branches turned into wood chips and
sawdust are also great, although these need to be chopped or shredded. Again, having
a chipper shredder around will make this job a lot easier.

Grass clippings decompose quickly and have as much nitrogen as manure, but you
need to mix them well with plenty of browns so that they don’t become anaerobic and
clump together. Seedlings, dead plants and decapitated flower heads should also be
thrown in as green materials. Spoiled hay or straw is a great carbon (brown) material.
Seaweed is another great source for composting, but be sure to wash off the salt first.

Manure is a given; it contains both nitrogen and microbes, in addition to being full of
nutrients. Use manure from herbivores, as meat-eating animal manure can have
harmful pathogens. Let manure age a little bit to avoid overheating your compost pile
and killing off good bacteria and earthworms, and layer it with other browns like straw or
leaves to keep things balanced.

Kitchen scraps include melon rinds, carrot peelings, tea bags, coffee grinds, orange
peels, apple cores, banana peels, corn cobs and corn stalks, peanut shells, alfalfa or
sprouts, and egg shells (although these need to be crushed to break down faster). Keep
a kitchen scrap carrier handy so you can easily add biodegradable items to your
compost pile every few days. If your compost pile is open, over the scraps with brown
materials to deter pests from visiting your compost.

Shredded cardboard boxes, newspapers, paper (particularly those with soy-based inks)
and sawdust from untreated wood will all contribute nicely to your organic potpourri. You
should always keep in mind not to put too much of any one thing in—it can throw off the
N-P-K balance, not to mention the pH. If adding paper products, keep it at 10% or less
of the compost material weight, as these products are low in nitrogen and slow rates of
decomposition in your pile.

Remember, the more surface area of waste exposed to your compost microorganisms,
the faster the decomposition process. Throw in a handful of good garden soil to
inoculate your new pile with living organisms. A few earthworms are a nice addition, too.

Though not required, many individuals add compost starters and accelerators to help
their pile along—this is fine, just avoid synthetic additives and seek out organic sources
with minimal packaging, like those found on our website.

The following table is a cheat sheet for your convenience:

From the Yard From the Kitchen
 chemical-free grass clippings  coffee grounds and filters
 dry leaves  tea bags (without staples) and
 Shrub and tree waste leaves
 sawdust and wood chips  veggie and fruit scraps
from untreated wood  corn husks
 straw and hay  crushed eggshells
 dead plants and flowers  hair from brushes
 potting soil  cereal, like oatmeal
 dead insects  bread and flour
 leftover pasta, without oil or
dairy-based sauces
 rice
 all-natural fibers, like cotton
 shredded black and white
newspaper and paper towels.

What Not to Put in Your Compost Bin:

Though all organic matter can naturally break down, some materials are not suitable for
the home compost pile. Read these carefully, and adhere to this advice in order to have
the most healthy and safe composting experience.
First and foremost, no human or pet excrement should be added to the bins. Feces can
harbor harmful bacteria, and there is no guarantee that the high temperatures of your
pile will kill them. The potential health cost is too high, thus directly composting feces
should not be attempted.

Secondly, stay away from greasy foods, dairy products, meat scraps (including fish) and
bones. Not only can their decomposition result in colorful aromas, they can attract
rodents. Moreover, why propagate pestilence? Rocks, plastic, metals and Styrofoam
are not going to do much for your pile, so keep them out.

Ashes from your fireplace are basically worthless --- they are already broken down as
much as possible from heat and flames, and therefore have little potential energy to
offer the microorganisms in your pile. Besides, ash can drastically alter the pH of the
soil. Avoid coal ashes because they contain sulfur and iron that can harm your plants,
and charcoal doesn’t decay too much, so don’t use them either.

If your prize tomatoes experienced their worst blight on record, you want to keep their
diseased leaves and stems out of the pile, especially if the finished compost will be
returning to your vegetable garden. Oak, southern magnolia, and holly trees are too
leathery for composting, and eucalyptus leaves can be toxic to other plants, in addition
to black walnut trees, poison oak, poison ivy, and sumac. Weeds are tricky—some
weeds can be composted, but if they have begun to seed, only the hottest compost pile
will kill them. Pine needles can actually slow down your compost pile - avoid mixing too
many of them into your pile.

The following list is a cheat sheet of what not to put in your compost bin, provided for
your convenience:

 Meat and bones

 Grease, fats, and oils
 Dairy products
 Human or pet feces
 Diseased plants
 Weeds
 Citrus peels, eucalyptus leaves and pine needles
 Treated wood products
 Grass/tree clippings treated with chemicals
 Poison Ivy and other toxic plants
 Walnut shells, walnut leaves
 Charcoal/ ashes
 Plastics and metals
 Chemical products (pesticides, fertilizers)
 Sanitary pads and tampons
 Non-organic materials
 Waxed paper
 Methods for Composting
 Methods for Composting
 Composting has come a long way from its ancient roots. Compost still works as the most
organic fertilizer, since it contains nearly all the nutrients a living plant needs over a
period of years. Today, composting is used for multiple treatments and is made in
newer, improved containments. Although some compost the same way they did twenty
years ago, the technology and techniques have changed enough to speed up the
process and produce better results. Layering is the original method, but since then the
exciting world of composting has expanded to greater heights.
 What are your compost needs? This is the first question you need to answer. If you feel
queasy at the thought of worms, then worm composting is probably not the best option
for you. On the other hand, if you don’t have a yard and plan to compost kitchen waste,
vermicomposting, or using worms to compost, is a great way to compost.
Composters.com has customer service representatives that will be happy to answer any
lingering questions so you can buy a compost unit with confidence. Open compost piles
aren’t that practical in a suburban or urban area. You’re much better off using a compost
bin or compost tumbler. Vermicomposting is also an excellent option and requires a
worm bin.
 The methods you use to compost are entirely dependent on you. It’s your garden you’re
taking care of—you should compost it as you see fit. However, Composters.com has
come up with some ideas, tips, and troubleshooting advice in case you’re confused.
 Tips and Advice
 Top dressing: Top dressing refers to compost being spread around soil during the
growing season. Perfect for herb and vegetable gardening, compost amends garden soil
with nutrients that allow plants to foster healthy growth while keeping plant diseases and
insect problems at bay. Poor soil can be augmented with 2-3 inches of compost,
whereas one inch of compost is thick enough for spreading on garden beds. Scatter
some across the base of your plants, or sprinkle compost over your lawn. You can even
top off your household potted plants with small amounts of compost.
 Side dressing: Side dressing is a good option if you’re running low on compost.
Intentionally spread compost on certain plants or rows. Work the compost into the soil
around the plant, starting about an inch from the stem.
 When to spread compost: Some recommend spreading compost in late autumn and
then covering it with winter mulch like chopped leaves, while others rely on spreading it
two weeks before planting time during the spring. There’s not wrong time to distribute
compost; the benefits always remain the same.
 Compost as mulch: Compost can also be used as mulch, which is meant to cover all of
the soil around the plants. Mulches protect from soil erosion and help retain water while
adding nutrients. Spread about a half inch to inch thick layer of compost on bare soil
under a tree and then cover with a 2-3 inch layer of mulch to help give your trees a
nutritious meal.
 Topsoil/Lime: There is no need to add topsoil or lime as extras in your compost. Both
can actually do more damage than good by reducing the heat or killing beneficial
organisms and losing nitrogen.
 Composting in the winter: When the temperatures drop, it’s sometimes hard to get
your compost to heat up. Place your compost bin at an angle that will slant towards the
sun so that your bin is still receiving heat. If you have some, try stacking hay bales or
other insulators to keep your bin warm.
 Converting kitchen scraps into fertilizer: Take earthworms and introduce them to
your compost bin. After the bottom layers of your compost have started to decompose,
bring in about five hundred earthworms—these “garbage men of the earth” will work
through successive layers you add until your bin is full and help break down your pile.
Keep layering, keep it moist, and allow it to decompose for 5-6 weeks. If you transfer the
worms into another pile or bin, you’ll be able to produce new compost every six weeks or
so.
 Composting leaves: People commonly complain that their leaves will not break down.
To aid them in decomposing, you can add extra nitrogen (manure is a good bet) to start
heating them up. Another thing you can do is shred your leaves with a leaf muncher,
which will turn your leaves into super-rich mulch you can use in your garden.
 Troubleshooting
 Before you take a violent rake to your problematic compost pile, take a look at our table
below, listing some of the most common problems you will run into with composting.
Chances are, the problem is an easy fix and you will be holding fistfuls of black compost
gold in no time.


Problem Cause Remedy

Turn your pile with an aerator or

Pile is too wet or not
Pile smells like sulfur pitchfork; add dry waste to
oxgenated
balance the moisture

Pile smells like Too many nitrogen-rich

Add more carbon-rich browns
ammonia greens

Bury your fresh kitchen scraps

Rats and squirrels Rodents and flies are under a layer of compost;
and flies, oh my! attracted to food odors switch to compost bin to keep
animals out

Slow decomposition Too many carbon-rich Add nitrogen-rich greens;

process browns or pile is not aerate your pile; consider an
 oxygenated enough accelerators

Moisten with rain water

Pile center is too dry Not enough moisture
collected from your rain barrel

Too many nitrogen-rich

Pile is too damp Add carbon-rich browns
materials/poor drainage

Too small or cold

Pile is damp only in Make sure pile is at least 3x3,
weather slows
the middle or smaller if it’s in a bin
decomposition

Avoid thick layers; break up

Grass and leaves Poor aeration or lack of
layers and mix up pile, shred up
won’t decompose moisture
big pieces of material

Pile smells like rancid Not enough oxygen/ too Aerate pile so it can breathe;
vinegar or rotten eggs much moisture add dry browns like leaves

Pile attracts buzzing Keep flies away by covering

insects around my Normal (but annoying!) kitchen scraps with paper or
compost decomposed waste from pile

Pile too dry/kitchen Keep pile moist and heated with

Pile attracts fire ants
scraps close to surface good mix of materials

 Choosing the Right Composter

 Composting is easier than ever, thanks to a variety of makes, models and colors.
Choosing the right composter for you should take some thought and evaluation. Each
system has its advantages, so it’s really all about what you need. Purchasing a compost
bin or compost tumbler is as much a personal preference choice as it is a functional
choice. Some bins are educational or allow the whole family to participate, while others
require a bit more maintenance. Ask yourself questions like, “How much yard material do
I have to compost?” or “Which systems best fits my lifestyle?” There are two types of
bins: open-sided and enclosed. Open-sided bins work well in large yards and allow
easier access for unloading and loading material; enclosed bins hold heat and moisture
better, thus taking less time to decompose. If you’re going to compost a lot of kitchen
waste, consider a plastic bin that will help resist rodents better.

 Compost Bins
 Compost bins, while ranging from simple to complex, usually looks like a slatted or
mesh wire pen, although there are square and cone-shaped models out there. Compost
bins help enclose your compost and hold heat by keeping the compost close to the
center. Take the time to think about your compost bin placement—it can save you
hassle and regret later. Do not place your compost bin in a heavily shaded, stuffy, or
damp area, or you create the perfect environment for anaerobic activity and consequent
odor problems. Avoid placing the compost bin near wells or slopes that drain to streams
or ponds. Compost piles near trees may create future problems; if tree roots grow into
the bottom of the pile, it can make turning the compost difficult. From an aesthetic
perspective, you may wish to place the bin where it is hidden from the view of your
neighbors and street. Your chosen spot should not interfere with regular gardening and
should be accessible to you and your family year round. An ideal location is partially
sunny so that the pile can reach proper temperatures, and shielded from high winds so it
would not dry out. If kept in direct sun or wind, you will need to water the pile more
regularly. Suggestions include near the garden or between a garage and house.
Composters.com has a great selection of compost bins, but the BioStack Bin is a
standout, with three bottomless tiers so you can add to them as your pile grows—it’s
also pest resistant and attractive compared to other bins on the market.

 Compost Tumblers
 A compost tumbler is specially designed to turn or “tumble” the maturing compost in an
internal chamber for aeration. The constant turning keeps microbes active while
maintaining relatively high temperatures. Compost tumblers are much easier on the eye
compared to compost piles oozing black gold in the backyard. Tumblers are also much
more resistant to pests, since they rest higher out of reach from rodents and pets. The
enclosed space of a tumbler provides protection from the elements; in hot weather the
compost stays damp longer, while in wet weather, the compost doesn’t become sodden.
But probably the best benefit about compost tumblers is that they are easy to keep
aerated—no pitchfork or aerator necessary. Flip the composter over, and ta-da! Your
compost is now mixed, minus the labor. Now your compost is decomposing faster
without much hassle like you do with a giant pile. Composters.com also has a wide
selection of compost tumblers, and the ComposTwin Dual Tumbler features an unique
two-chamber design. This means your pile can cook your batch of compost in one
section, and the other can be filled with fresh scraps. The Bio-Orb U-Roll system
requires a little more work by rolling the compost in the orb every five to ten days. The
rolling helps the compost decompose faster, plus it’s a great way to work out those
arms!

 Composting Accessories and other Helpful Hints

 In addition to a great selection of compost bins and compost tumblers, Composters.com
also features composting supplies and accessories to help you jumpstart that pile.
Compost accelerators are handy compost accessory that stimulates microbial activity,
hastening the decomposition of organic waste in your pile. A compost aerator simplifies
 the composting process because it’s specifically designed to turn and aerate the pile.
They’re a sophisticated, efficient choice for hand-mixed composting. Leaf munchers will
turn dead leaves and yard debris into nutritious garden mulch. A kitchen scrap carrier is
useful for taking scraps like coffee ground and fruit peels to your compost bin outside
without sticky hands or spillage. Lawn sweepers carry up fallen yard debris, and chipper
shredders turn tree limbs into beneficial wood chips—all great browns and greens to
throw into your compost pile. Rodents are always going to be around, and while few bins
are 100% rodent-proof, there are ways you can avoid rodent entry into your humus.
Make sure the bottom lip of the compost bin is buried under the soil surface, since
rodents usually enter through the bottom. Secondly, keep all lids and doors securely
fastened or locked (some thieves, like raccoons, can easily work latches). If you have a
known rodent problem, select bins that don’t have any large openings between the slats.
Moreover, when discarding your food scraps, bury them in the compost pile center so
that access to them is difficult. To prevent entry from below, buy a few yards of chicken
coop wire with a small mesh diameter and line the bottom of the bin or bury the wire a
few inches below the surface. Try to avoid using poisons as pest control. We offer eco-
friendly alternatives like humane rodent traps, or you can try predator urine, hot pepper
wax, kitty litter or peppermint extract. This question has come up before: are there bear-
proof composters? Unfortunately, we are aware of no bear-proof compost bin on the
market. Your best bet is to move your compost bin indoors, choose an indoor composter
from our wide selection, or use a worm compost bin.

Vermiculture
What is Vermicomposting?
Vermicomposting uses worms to convert your organic waste to compost rather than the
microbial-dependent decomposition process used in backyard composters.
Vermicomposting enriches the soil, improves its water retention, and enhances
germination and plant growth.

The Redworm, also known as the Red Wriggler or Eisenia foetida, is the shining star of
vermicomposters, although European Night Crawlers are a fine substitute. When you
throw kitchen scraps into a worm bin, what the worms really seek to consume are the
nourishing microorganisms decomposing the scraps. These worms excrete worm
castings, which is a valuable soil conditioner because it contains eight times as many
beneficial microorganisms as the food supply. Worm castings are loaded with nutrients:
they contain seven times more phosphorus, five times more nitrogen, and eleven times
more potassium than typical soil. It retains moisture in your soil and enhances the
growth and yield of your garden.

One of the biggest differences that sets worm composting apart is that it can be done
indoors, which allows for year-round composting, as well as composting in small places
like apartments, classrooms, or homes without large yards. Because worms consume
waste so quickly (they eat their weight in bedding and organic waste daily), it is ideal for
kitchen scrap disposal, since food would not linger long enough to create an offensive
odor. And since the worm compost bin can not be exposed to extreme temperatures,
the ideal storage spot is right in your home. Another winning benefit: as worms move
through the bedding and compost, they aerate the pile for you, eliminating the need for
manual pile turning.

If you have kids, give vermicomposting a shot. Like chocolate and peanut butter, kids
and worms are a perfect pair. Most children are inexorably drawn to the idea of "pet
worms" that they can feed. It is an invaluable educational tool that instills the importance
of recycling and the fundamentals of the carbon cycle.

How to Compost with Worms

Redworms are happy in cool, wet conditions. The bedding is where your worms live
and eat—it should be made of material that is high in carbon and imitates dried leaves,
or a worm’s natural habitat. Place redworms in a bin with a bedding of shredded
cardboard or moistened paper that is loose enough to make aerobic decomposition
easier and as damp as a well-wrung sponge. Keep them at a temperature between 50-
70 degrees. If you live in a hot climate, place the bin away from direct sunlight. Avoid
using glossy paper from magazines or waxy cardboard from milk carton as bedding
because they can contain toxins.

Worms enjoy a carbon to nitrogen ratio of about 30:1, plus water to keep it moist. Use
shredded paper for your “browns”, or carbon-rich material, and food scraps as your
“greens”, the nitrogen-rich material. There are two methods of feeding: top feeding and
pocket feeding. Top feeding means the organic materials are place directly on top of the
existing layer of bedding. Pocket feeding is when a top layer of bedding is maintained
and food is buried beneath. We recommend the pocket feeding method. Feed your
worms one to two times a week by burying the scraps a few inches into the bedding,
making sure to bury food in different places each time. Depending on how much you
feed them, the worms will gradually reproduce and die. Worms can consume about four
to six pounds of food scraps in a week. A whole mess of food at once could attract fruit
flies, so increase your scraps slowly but steadily and cover the bedding to keep them
out. In four to six months, the worms should have converted the bedding and food into
castings which need to be harvested to start composting again.

Vermicomposting bins should have holes on the side to increase aeration so the bin is
ventilated and the worms can breathe. Consistently removing the compost, adding
holes to the bin or using a continuous-flow bin will help bring in oxygen to your crawling
critters. Without enough oxygen, the compost will become anaerobic decay and
produce an offensive odor. Furthermore, if you have a non-continuous flow bin, the
excess liquid needs to be drained and can be used as plant food; a continuous flow bin
doesn’t retain the excess liquid and needs extra water to keep the bedding moist.
Now comes the exciting part—reaping the fruit of your worm’s voracious appetites!
There are two ways of harvesting your castings: “Dump and Sort” and “Side by Side”.

The “Dump and Sort” method requires you to pour your compost bin contents onto a
plastic sheet or similar, waterproof platform under bright light. Separate the contents
into pyramid shaped piles. Your photosensitive worms will make their way to the bottom
of the piles, and in 10-15 minutes, you can skim your rich castings from the top of the
pyramids. Repeat until only the worms remain, then place them into your bin with fresh
bedding to start the vermincomposting process again.

The “Side by Side” method is recommended for the squeamish that prefer not to touch
the worms. Begin the process by burying your organic scraps in different spots on one
side of the bin over a number of weeks. Your worms will migrate to the side with the
food, and you are now free to cull the castings on the other side. When it’s ready to
harvest again, place the food on the opposite side and repeat the process.

Once you take the time to understand the factors that create a successfully efficient
worm compost bin, you will realize how easy vermicomposting can be!

Factors
Description
Affecting Rate
Use the Redworm or European Night Crawler for your
worm compost bin. Some worm compost bin on our site
specify which to use. Always refer to manufacturer
instructions for specifics over this general site. Worms
consume their weight in carbon and nitrogen rich organic
Worm
scraps every 24 hours. A good way to calculate how many
worms to buy is to use a 2:1 ratio—two pounds of worms
for every pound of organic kitchen scraps your household
produces daily. Beginners may want to start with two
pounds and progress with their skill.
Since worms are living creatures, their comfort is of utmost
importance for optimal worm bin operation. The ideal
temperature for the bin is between 60-80°F, but you have
Temperature wiggle room of 40-90°F before the worms are adversely
impacted. It is best to store the bin in a cool, dark place
within the home for stability. Do not allow the bin to
freeze or overheat.
Bedding for your worms is important. Initially, it takes up
approximately 2/3 of your new bin is space and provides
Bedding
half of the worm is carbon-nitrogen diet. In addition, it
(carbon
offers a dark, moist hiding place for the photosensitive
Content)
worms. Shredded cardboard, paper, coir bricks, untreated
wood shavings, and chopped straw and hay are suitable
 bedding materials.
If worms dry out, they die. For this reason, bedding must
be kept moist but never dripping wet, or anaerobic
(oxygen-free) conditions can occur and lead to odors and
the suffocation of the worms (they can drown). Since
Water Content
worms themselves produce liquid, it may be necessary to
occasionally add dry bedding to the bottom of bins that
have become saturated. In addition, make sure your bin
has holes on the bottom to allow for adequate drainage.
Chop up your organic kitchen scraps and add them to your
worm bin composter, along with a grit like soil, cornmeal,
Food Scraps or finely crushed egg shells to help worms digest their
(Nitrogen meal in their gizzard. Feed the worms about twice a week,
Content) between 1.5-2 lbs. of accumulated scraps, adjusting
portions to your amount of worms as necessary using the
2:1 ratio describe above.
Worms require a constant source of fresh air, breathing
through their skin. Make sure your bin has adequate
Oxygenation ventilation holes. You will not need to turn your compost to
aerate it like backyard compost. Those gluttonous little
worms do that for you!

Let’s review the following steps:

1. Choose from a wide selection of worm compost bin at Composters.com.

2. Prepare bedding for your worms, making sure it takes up at least 2/3 of the
container space and is moist but not soggy. Check out our Bedding Recipe to
help.
3. Add your Redworms or European Night Crawlers to the bedding under direct
light. Due to their photosensitivity, the worms will begin to burrow into the dark
safety of their bedding.
4. After the worms have been allowed to settle for a day or two, begin feeding them
your organic scrap waste twice weekly.
5. When bedding has been almost entirely consumed, harvest the valuable
compost.

Keep in mind these are general steps. For instructions that relate to your specific worm
bin, refer to the manufacturer guidelines.

Bedding Recipe
Redworms just love shredded paper bedding. First, get a pile of used office paper and
remove the color inserts, plastic windows, and glossy advertisements. Then carefully
run it through a paper shredder, a few pages at a time, so it is not too compressed -
avoid using the cross-cutting models that mince the paper into confetti sized particles.
Next, moisten the paper ever so slightly - you want the bedding to be evenly moist at all
times, but NEVER dripping wet. For optimum results, mix in a tiny bit of processed steer
manure from your local garden center (do not use fresh cow spore - it will heat up too
much and kill the worms). To go the extra mile for your worm new home, pick up a
simple pH test kit and occasionally monitor the acidity levels of the bedding. You want to
make sure that the pH does not drop too far or too quickly into the acid range - it could
kill the worms. You can balance out the pH with a little pulverized limestone from your
local nursery. Scatter a handful or two of soil over the bedding - this will provide grit,
which aids digestion. You can also do the same thing with shredded cardboard!

What to put in your worm bin

The best and most convenient thing you can feed your worms is kitchen scraps. All
vegetable and fruit peels, pasta leftovers, coffee grounds, tea bags, and breads are
good, as well as grass clippings, plant trimmings and leaves. Start feeding your worms
slowly, since it will take time for the bacteria to grow. A small combination of gritty
materials like bread and vegetables should do the trick. The worms won’t be hungry
because they will be eating their own bedding; after you’ve been feeding them for a
while, you can gradually start to increase their food intake, but not by too much!

The following list is a cheat sheet provided for your convenience:

 Fruit and veggie scraps

 Leftover pasta (without oil or sauce)
 Plain rice
 Egg cartons
 Coffee trays
 Tea bags (without staples)
 Coffee grinds
 Cornmeal (for grit)
 Soil (for grit)
 Finely crushed egg shell (for grit)
 Breads
 Grains and cereals
 Beans
 Untreated sawdustGrass clippings Hair clippings Plant trimmings Paper Leaves

What NOT to put in your worm bin:

Worms cannot break down synthetic materials, bones, or heavy proteins and fats that
are found in meat scraps. Therefore, just like with a regular compost bin, you cannot
feed them meats, fatty foods, weeds, or anything involving chemicals. Don’t throw away
bottle caps, plastic bags, or foil in your bin, since they won’t decompose and make your
bin look like a trashcan. And don’t add manure like you would with regular compost,
since this will heat up the bin and effectively kill your worms. Worms also dislike garlic
and onion, as well as very spicy foods. If you notice any bad smells, cut back on the
amount of food or cut it into smaller pieces. More leafy vegetables and less citrus fruits
can also help cut down on any odd stenches.

The following list is a cheat sheet provided for your convenience:

 Garlic
 Onion
 Meats and bones
 Dairy products
 Oily food
 Heavily spiced or hot foods
 Anything with insecticide or chemicals
 Twigs
 Metal and foils
 Plastics
 Weeds
 Manure
 Garden soil

Methods for Vermicomposting

Vermicompost, like we mentioned earlier, is a fantastic soil nutrient. You can distribute
the compost over your flower beds or garden by lightly digging it into your soil. It’s very
potent, so you should typically use half of what you would have used with normal
compost. If you use it on potted plants, add a thin layer to the top—no more than 25% of
the potting soil should be compost. Try a little experimentation to find the best results for
your botanic beauties.

As long as it is stored in an airtight container, the vermicompost can keep for

approximately a year. Once it dries out, it loses a lot of its nutritional value and resists
moisture.

Tips and Advice

When you go on vacation: Your worms will be fine for 2-3 weeks, and would not
exhibit too much separation anxiety. If your cruise to Jamaica is longer than 3 weeks,
you will need to enlist the aid of a friend to worm-sit.

Rodents and pests: Since vermicomposting is done primarily indoors, you shouldn’t be
attracting rodents or pests. However, if you are putting meat or lots of kitchen waste into
the worm bin your chances of attracting unwelcome pests increases. Using a sealed bin
will help keep out pesky critters.

Odor: Like backyard composting, a properly maintained worm compost bin will not
stink. If your bin does smell, it indicates anaerobic conditions. Common reasons for the
occurrence include overfeeding your worms and bins that are too wet. Make sure the
worms have finished all the kitchen scraps before adding more, and gently fluff bedding
to aerate. Add more bedding or use a turkey baster to suck up excess moisture. Other
reasons could include an excess of greens—neutralize the odor by adding carbon-rich
browns like paper and dried leaves.

Other creatures in my worm bin: Once your worms are thriving, you may notice other
creatures rummaging in your bin. Springtails, pill bugs and millipedes are just a few, and
they are beneficial, as they help breakdown the materials in the bin.

Worms, Worm Composters and Accessories

Composters.com features a great selection of vermicomposting bins and worm
accessories that will help make the process easy and fun!

Worm composters are designed to be spaces your worms can live in harmony, happily
munching away on your kitchen leftovers. The type of bin you need depends on how
much waste you throw away. If you feed a large family every night, chances are you
need a larger bin. If you vermicompost from an apartment, you probably don’t need a
huge bin to do the job. The Expandable Worm Tower, which can hold about 5-8 lbs. of
waste, separates food scraps from finished compost using an upward migration system
so that when the top worms finish digesting, they will go towards the new food at the
top, leaving castings behind. The Advanced BioSafe System, on the other hand, has the
capacity to handle 15-20 lbs. of waste per day and works great both indoors and
outdoors. Though we carry all sorts of worm bins, you’ll need to figure out which one is
perfect for your vermicomposting needs. And if you need troubleshooting or have a
question, the dual-sided Rott Wheeler Quick Reference Guide is an outstanding source
that’s made for beginners so it’s easy to understand and works well as a teaching aide.

Once you have your worm bin, you need worms to put in it! Redworms or Nightcrawlers
are the ideal worms for vermiculture. A pound of worms can range from 100-1000
worms, depending on season, harvesting mechanism, temperature, and species; a
pound is enough to eat up a half-pound of garbage. How many worms you need
depends on how much kitchen waste you produce each day. Add worms by scattering
them over the top, as they will work their way down to the center to avoid the light.
Worms are hermaphrodites and will breed in your bin. However, worms regulate their
population to suit their conditions and many eggs are lost in the compost harvest. You
should have no problem with over breeding.

Once your bin is set up, your bedding is made, and your worms are safely inside, store
your bin someplace within the home where it will be of convenience to you and provide
a dark, quiet spot for your worms. They are not fond of bright light, noise, and vibration,
and many people find success storing them in a closet, kitchen, or basement. You can
keep them outside in most places during the spring, summer and fall seasons. Make
sure the place is cool and shaded. However, bring them inside during the winter. Never
allow your bin to freeze!

Compost Tea
Compost Tea
Compost tea is best described as a liquid soil conditioner for your garden and lawn. For
the organic gardener, it is just one more way to utilize the compost harvested from your
compost bin, compost tumbler or worm compost bin. It can be used either as a spray for
leaves or soil, depending on where your plants have problems. Compost tea can also
provide a quick boost to ailing house plants or to seedlings and transplants. When
you’re done with the tea, you can use the dregs as mulch in the garden.

Making compost tea is a snap! Simply steep your compost or vermicompost in water to
create hearty liquid sustenance for your plants. Grab a large five gallon bucket or similar
container and fill it loosely with only your finest batches compost. If you have a poor
compost yield, your tea will be similarly lackluster. Add water to cover your compost,
and then stir the bucket contents daily for a week. When the tea is ready, simply drain
the liquid from the bucket, now awash in the nutrients and minerals it leeched from your
compost. Use a strainer or cheesecloth if you plan to spray your tea from bottle to
remove clogging residue. Because the tea is so potent, make sure you dilute your liquid
loveliness by mixing ten parts water to one part compost tea before applying to plants. If
you do not, you risk burning your plants with the tea high nitrogen content.

Making vermicompost tea is a similar process. Add two tablespoons of your worm
castings to a liter of water and let it sit for one day, shaking occasionally to facilitate
mixing. The tea is now ready to be sprinkled on your plants, straight from the bottle.

Compost tea and traditional solid compost both accomplish the same goal of nourishing
and improving soil conditions. However, you may find one meets your organic
gardening goals more than the other. If you are looking for an immediate boost in your
plants, compost tea is the way to go. As a liquid, it is immediately absorbed by your
plants, and can be applied to the soil, or the roots and leaves of your foliage. However,
its liquid form is a double-edge sword, requiring frequent applications to balance how
easily the tea is washed away. In addition, just as plants treated with good compost tea
derived from a proper compost batch show immediate benefits, a toxic or weak compost
tea from a poor compost batch will become instantly apparent in your garden. A tea with
too much nitrogen, salts and unwanted microorganisms can burn or impair your
gardening efforts. Compost tea is not the most forgiving form of compost application.

Solid compost offers more room for error, and does not need frequent application to
perform its soil enriching duty. However, it would not be the instant perk some
gardeners seek in their flower beds and gardens.

Unlike vermicompost, compost tea does not have a long shelf life. The more quickly it is
used, the greater its potency. If you must store it, keep it in a shaded area with
ventilation.

Pet Waste Management

A pet waste digester system is similar to a composter, except instead of microbial
activity leading to decomposition, special digesters with non-toxic enzymes work to
break down your pet poop into completely benign residue. This liquid then enters the
surrounding soil, cleanly and with no risk to children or pets. This process keeps
hazardous waste materials out of our landfills and water treatment facilities. Most
systems come with a plastic or metal receptacle you partially bury into your yard, and
the liquid or powder digester you throw in to break down the waste. Today is systems
are compact, aesthetically pleasing, and many sport foot-pedal operation of the
receptacle lid, for greater convenience. The receptacles are designed to control odor,
complete with a lid. Once the enzymes begin to break down the pet waste, the odor is
neutralized.

You absolutely cannot put pet waste or human excrement into a backyard compost bin.
It is all about safety, safety, safety. For the standard backyard compost bin or
vermicomposter set-up, there is no guarantee that the pile will heat up enough from the
microbial activity to destroy any harmful pathogens in the waste. Imagine a nick on your
hand caused by yard work. Now imagine that hand dipping into contaminated
compost—not a pretty picture. Unless your compost has been specifically designed and
allocated for fecal management, steer clear and keep your composter feces free!

Composters.com does sell quality pet waste composters, and it is a valid, eco-friendly
way to deal with pet waste. However, until one is well-versed in standard
vermicomposting or pet waste digester systems, we recommend holding off. Pet waste
digesters are designed as a low maintenance alternative to trashing your pet’s waste. If
you are a seasoned compost participant looking for a change, than the pet waste
composter is for you.

Sources:
http://www.composters.com (original guide)
http://www.compostguide.com/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Composting
http://www.howtocompost.org/info/info_composting.asp
http://lancaster.unl.edu/pest/resources/vermicompost107.shtml
http://vegweb.com/composting/