Handloom

The people of Assam have traditionally been craftsman from the time immemorial. Though Assam is
mostly known for it’s exquisite silks and bamboo and the cane products, several others crafts are also
made here. Different regions of Assam are known for their different form of Art and handicrafts.

Handloom comprises of one of the industries in the North Eastern states of Assam. it is known far and
wide for its rich textures and Designs. so much importance is attached with the Industry that it is
customary for every young Assamese girl to acquired the Silk to weave, in order to quality of marriage.
Passed down from generation to generation, silk weaving skills has become a way of life for the
Assamese people. In fact, the state even boasts of having the largest number of weavers and Handlooms
in the whole of India. the raw material used in the Handloom industry of Assam mainly includes cotton,
muga or the golden silk and the eri silk.

Every Handloom product created in Assam is unique and has no resemblance with the other. this is
because of the fact that the colour and design sense varies from Weaver to weaver. It is often said that
the personality of the Weaver is poured into the product. Images of birds animals and house mostly
embodered on the traditional Handloom products of Assam. however today, the designer incorporates
patterns and design based on the demands of the market and in accordance with the taste of the new
generation. Handloom Research and designing centre at Guwahati supplies new designs and colour
patterns to the indigenous Handloom Society in the state. Assam silk fabrics have earned image
recognition from all over the world the state is home to several types of Silks, the prominent and
Prestigious being Muga. the golden Silk is exclusive to the state. Muga apart there is Paat and Eri. the
latter being used in the manufacture of warm clothes. Of the naturally reach golden colour muga is the
finest of Indians wild silk. it is produced only in Assam. the woman of Assam weave fairy tales in their
looms. in earlier times the Silk to weave was the primary qualification of a young girl for her eligibility for
marriage. this perhaps explains why Assam has the largest concentration of Handlooms and weavers in
India. one of the World’s finest artistic traditions finds expression in their exquisitely woven Eri, Muga
and Pat fabrics.

THE THREE TIMELESS SILKS.

-MUGA SILK

The king of silk, muga is Golden in appearance and is extracted from the semi domesticated silkworm
Antheraea in Assam. Common to the religion only different traditional attires like mekhala and sarees
are made from Silk.the biggest Muga Silk producing centre in Assam is Sualkuchi. The Silk garment
produced in this area have earned International acclaim from the major export items for the entire
state.

Origin and history

As per conflicting records the cultivation and waving of Muga Silk has been there for a very long time,
but the golden age of that can be traced to the period between 1228-1828 during the region of Ahom
rulers patronized the growth of Muga Silk industry. They had decreed that all the higher officials of the
kingdoms where to wear clothes made from Moga silk.

Present day scenario

Primarily bulk of the Mughal Silk cultivation takes place in the West Khasi Hills of Assam which are the
only homes of the Silk worms suda. which generate the Muga Silk thread. Dresses made out of the
Muga silk sport rich embroidery in the form of flowers, leaves, trees and bihu cultures leading to a
unique and fabulous look. The traditional use of Moga silk has been to make attire for women called
mekhla which is akin to a saree in Assam and for making kurtas for men.

Varieties

A whole lot of variety is available with Moga silk it is used in making hats, caps, scarf, whaps, stales,
quills, bridal wear, sarees and kurta.

Global wear- ability

Already popular in USA Europe South Africa and the Middle East the next stop for Moga Silk seems to
be Japan where the designers are using it to make Kimonos.

Interesting facts and comparisons

-For any middle class lady in Assam The prized Possession to be coveted is a saree made of Moga silk.

-In 2007 Muga silk from Assam was given the registration as the geographical identification of Assam
under the rules of intellectual property right.

-It takes about thousand cocoons to generate 125 grams of silk and around 1000 grams of silk is needed
for a saree.

-Over and above that time taken to make one single saree is about 2 months right from rearing the silk
worm to the finished products.

Eri silk

Introduction

While it is majorly found in the north east of India. Eri is also known as errandi and endi silk. The word
Eri is inspired from the Assamese word Era which means castor. the silkworm that produces silk, feed on
castor plant hence driving the name Eri. it is one of the purest form of silk that is a true and genuine
product of Samia Cynthia richni work. Eri silk is the only domesticated Silk produced in India as the
process does not include any killing of the silkworm also naming this silk as ahimsa or fabric of peace.

Origin and history

Eri Silk being the most textured Silk needs a very huge amount of preservation and care strategy
biologically named as ailanthus silk moth, the silkworm are known as caterpillars is generally found in
China and Japan prominently found in the South Asian Origins this Silk moth are predominantly found
over the wild trees and shrubs of shorea rolosta and Terminalia.

Making

In order to open eri silk in its original, fluffy form, Eri silk is either boiled with soap water or through
scoring in a large tank through the process of hydro extraction. a coating of sericin gum on the filament
of the cocoon prevents it from opening with is this process is known as degumming. The degummed
cocoons are then opened which helps in further cutting. the eri fibers to the appropriate length. Fibers
cutting is the next part of the process. Next the carding parallelizes and individualizes the Eri silk fibres
to maintain quality of the output. series of quilling and drawing operations make the carded silver fibers
parallel and uniform the next step involves removing short fibres present in the quilled uncombed Eri
silk silver.

Maintenance

Eri fibres are carved out of shorter Threads they are not extremely durable beside the strength of the eri
Silk is lost when soaked in water therefore it is advisable that you get your Eri silk dry cleaned.

Interesting facts

-Eri Silk as a fabric is preferred by women and for clothes that overall feminine in nature.

-Due to its eco friendly production process the eri Silk is the most preferred fabric for Buddhist monk.

PAT SILK

Introduction

Pat silk originates from Assam where Silk producing industry is established for 3 major silks of the east.
Usually comes in brilliant white or off white shades that Silk fabric is derived from Mulberry silk worms
and is known for its distinctive Brightness high quality and durable nature hence also known as Mulberry
silk.

History

In 1946 when Mahatma Gandhi visited Soudkuchi a designer Raju deka created a weave of Gandhiji's
portrait on a piece of wet cloth and presented to him the weaved and design were done with such
detailing that the two Broken front teeth of Gandhiji with a smiling face where depicted. It was then
predicted that Pat Silk will be one of the dream weaves of India.

Making

Pat Silk is produced from silkworm that are grown on Mulberry leaves and hence the Silk is known as
Mulberry Silk the fabrics is primarily used for local consumption however the sericulture and silk
weaving community of commercial Weavers by 25000 kilograms of twisted Mulberry Silk from South
State of Karnataka in order to produced Pat sari for Client or outside Assam and abroad although the
Mulberry Silk is light in weight it is very durable in nature.

Maintenance

Pat Silk is very durable although on the outlook it might seem very delicate and lightweight however as
in the case of most Silks Pat sari or any government made out of pat Silk should be dry cleaned and gift
wrapped in cloth it should be taken out from time to time to check for any damage.

Interesting facts

-Pat Silk is also known as Mulberry silk

-Due to thousands of years of being captive breeding Mulberry worms cannot survive without human
care and feeding

-178 pounds of cocoons reared in 1 acre of land eventually translates into 35 pounds of pat silk.

Conclusion

As a matter of fact the popularity of Assam Silk is gradually demolishing and is now not as popular as it
used to be the silk in Assam I mainly limited to making traditional dresses do slight diversifications can
we see nowadays there are a lot of steps to be taken by the entrepreneurs and policymakers it is high
time that effective measures should be taken by the government traders and entrepreneurs to make
Assam Silk a larger Global brand otherwise the state will lost its status and dignity of being an
indigenous Silk producer of the country.