Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
MODELS
QUICK GUIDE
Index
WAPO MODEL ................................................................................................................................... 2
BRIEF DESCRIPTION ........................................................................................................................... 2
STRUCTURE OF THE COMPUTER PROGRAM WAPO_V4 ....................................................................... 3
Preprocessing Module BWAPO4 ................................................................................................. 3
Solving module WAPO_V4 .......................................................................................................... 4
Input Files ..................................................................................................................................... 4
List of wave trains to be run .................................................................................................................... 4
General Data of the Wave Trains ............................................................................................................ 4
Criteria for establishing the incident wave direction ............................................................................ 7
File containing bathymetry ...................................................................................................................... 8
Output files ................................................................................................................................... 9
Intermediate file with all the initial conditions .......................................................................................... 9
Intermediate file input to WAPO_V4 ....................................................................................................... 9
File with maximum wave height results ................................................................................................. 10
Output file with instant free surface ....................................................................................................... 10
RUNNING THE PROGRAM................................................................................................................... 11
Executable Files ......................................................................................................................... 11
Output files ................................................................................................................................. 11
Presentation of results ............................................................................................................... 12
COCO MODEL .................................................................................................................................. 13
BRIEF DESCRIPTION ......................................................................................................................... 13
INPUT FILES ..................................................................................................................................... 13
General conditions file ................................................................................................................ 13
OUTPUT FILES ................................................................................................................................. 14
RUNNING THE PROGRAM................................................................................................................... 15
ANNEX 1: HOW TO GET GRD AS INPUT? .................................................................................... 16
FROM FILE DATA X, Y, Z ................................................................................................................... 16
FROM AUTOCAD FILE ...................................................................................................................... 18
HOW TO ROTATE A TOPO-BATHYMETRY? ........................................................................................... 19
When you have a AutoCAD file ................................................................................................. 19
When you have a file of points X, Y, Z ....................................................................................... 19
Input file ................................................................................................................................................ 19
Program execution ................................................................................................................................ 20
ANNEX 2: HOW TO GRAPH THE WAPO RESULTS IN SURFER? ............................................... 21
MAXIMUM AMPLITUDE FILE ................................................................................................................ 21
INSTANTANEOUS FREE SURFACE FILE ................................................................................................ 22
ANNEX 3: HOW GRAPH THE COCO RESULTS IN SURFER? ..................................................... 23
TO GENERATE THE CONTOUR MAP ..................................................................................................... 23
GENERATE THE VECTOR MAP ............................................................................................................ 24
REFERENCES .................................................................................................................................. 27
Página 1 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
WAPO Model
Brief Description
The WAPO model has been developed to compute the propagation of monochromatic wave trains
over a variable bottom. It solves the elliptic modified mild slope equation in two dimensions and is
capable of reproducing wave phenomena such as: refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection and
energy dissipation induced by both bottom friction and breaking.
The main assumptions behind the modified mild slope equation are: irrotational flow, incompressible
fluid and linearity; this means that the governing equation can be the Laplace equation solved for
the velocity potential and subject to kinematic and dynamic boundary conditions at the water free
surface. Additionally, waves are considered to be travelling over an impermeable bottom which
provides the last boundary condition. The result of this procedure is the mild slope equation, derived
first by Berkhoff (1972) who limited his solution to a slowly varying depth.
Further research by authors such as Massel (1993), Chamberlain and Porter (1995), Kirby and
Darlymple (1994) and Losada, et al. (1996), who considered the second order terms resulted in so
called modified mild slope equation which showed better accuracy and removed the restriction of
the slowly varying depth.
The most compact way to write the mild slope equation is in the Helmholtz form:
(1)
where:
( )
( ) √
( )
√
∫ ( )
( )
( )
This equation is numerically solved in a second order finite difference scheme; this means that the
velocity potential in each cell of the domain is found by solving a linear complex system of
equations.
For further reading, please see Manual del Usuario y Documentación de Referencia del
Programa MWAPO3, and Silva et al. (2005).
Página 2 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
Página 3 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
Input Files
The characters “PM” may be substituted by any other to identify the specific list.
In the first line of the file the number of wave trains to be run is written. The following lines have the
name of the input file of wave train.
An example of this is shown in Figure 2.
Number of cases 5
to run PM01WAP.INP
PM02WAP.INP Name of the file of
PM03WAP.INP conditions
PM04WAP.INP
PM05WAP.INP
Página 4 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
Página 5 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
The name of the ASCII GRD SURFER file containing the bathymetry data is given by the two
character ID code of the list file followed by “BAT” or “REF” if the bathymetry is going to be run by
the WAPO or OLUCA-UNAM model, respectively.
P M B A T . G R D _ _ B A T . G R D
P M B A T . G R D P M R E F . G R D
For 5 ≤ IORI ≤ 8, the computation will be made by OLUCA-UNAM for the deep water grid and with
the WAPO for the shallow water grid as shown in Figure 4.
7000
MALA
Deep Water Grid
6000 APROXIMACIÓN
(OLUCA-UNAM)
(OLUCA-UNAM)
5000
4000
3000
MALA
Shallow Water Grid
DETALLE
(WAPO_V4)
2000
(WAPO3)
1000
0
0 1000 2000 3000 4000
Página 6 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
Página 7 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
Figure 7. Criteria for the incident boundary depending on the wave direction
DSAA
NY NX
Ymin Ymax
Xmin Xmax
Zmin Zmax
H(NX,1) H(NX,2) H(NX,3) ………… H(NX,NY)
H(NX-1,1) H(NX-1,2) H(NX-1,3) ………… H(NX-1,NY)
H(NX-2,1) H(NX-2,2) H(NX-2,3) ………… H(NX-2,NY)
. . . . .
. . . . .
. . . . .
H(2,1) H(2,2) H(2,3) ………… H(2,NY)
H(1,1) H(1,2) H(1,3) ………… H(1,NY)
Página 8 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
Output files
Página 9 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
The two first two characters correspond to the project identifier, the next two indicate the wave train
and the text “AMP” means it is the wave height file. See Figure 9.
DSAA
NY NX
Ymin Ymax
Xmin Xmax
ALTMI ALTMA
A(NX,1) A(NX,2) A(NX,3) ………… A(NX,NY)
A(NX-1,1) A(NX-1,2) A(NX-1,3) ………… A(NX-1,NY)
A(NX-2,1) A(NX-2,2) A(NX-2,3) ………… A(NX-2,NY)
. . . . .
. . . . .
. . . . .
A(2,1) A(2,2) A(2,3) ………… A(2,NY)
A(1,1) A(1,2) A(1,3) ………… A(1,NY)
The two first two characters correspond to the project identifier, the next two indicate the wave train
and the text “SUP” means it is the free surface file. The structure is shown in Figure 10.
DSAA
NY NX
Ymin Ymax
Xmin Xmax
SMI SMA
S(NX,1) S(NX,2) S(NX,3) ………… S(NX,NY)
S(NX-1,1) S(NX-1,2) S(NX-1,3) ………… S(NX-1,NY)
S(NX-2,1) S(NX-2,2) S(NX-2,3) ………… S(NX-2,NY)
. . . . .
. . . . .
. . . . .
S(2,1) S(2,2) S(2,3) ………… S(2,NY)
S(1,1) S(1,2) S(1,3) ………… S(1,NY)
Página 10 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
Executable Files
The required executable files are:
BWAPO4.exe
Mwapo_v4.exe
OLUCA-UNAM.exe
WAPO_V3.exe
The file which will be executed is the mwapo_v4.exe and, although the user can only click twice on
the file, it is preferable to open a command window and execute it manually. In the window, write
the file (with the extension) of the list of the wave trains to run (Figure 11). Automatically the
program will start running.
Output files
Once the running is finished the window will close and the next files will appear in the folder:
File required for the analysis of currents induced by waves:
P M 0 1 A C D . D A T L L N N A C D . D A T
The following files will also be generated, they have data relevant for the program but not for the
end user:
RODO.GRD
RODOX.TXT
RODOY.TXT
INPUT.TMP
BORRA.BAT
Página 11 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
Presentation of results
The files LLNNAMP.GRD and LLNNSUP.GRD for each of the wave trains can be plotted as maps
to view the results. The recommended program for plotting is SURFER and the format of the map is
choice of the user, (Figure 2).
Figure 12. Example of presentation of results: left, the maximum wave amplitude, right; the
instantaneous free surface
More information on how to plot on SURFER can be found in ANNEX 2.
Página 12 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
COCO Model
Brief Description
This model estimates the currents induced by waves. It is based on the Nonlinear Shallow Water
Equations, which in their integral form can be written as:
∫ ∮ ̂ ∫
Where
* +
( )
( )
[ ]
Ω is the domain, S is the Ω perimeter, ̂ is the flux vector function, and are the
viscid and non-viscid fluxes. The model solves these equations in a first order finite volume scheme.
More details on the mathematical model can be found in Silva et al. (2010).
Input Files
To execute the program the following files are required:
File ACD obtained for the execution of the WAPO:
P M 0 1 A C D . D A T L L N N A C D . D A T
1 C Line Comment
2 PMBAT.GRD File GRD with the mesh (must be the same input file that WAPO is running)
Página 13 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
= 1 Chezy (18*LOG(12*H/K))
12 2.5 If IFRIC
= 0 Mannin´s n
= 1 Nikuradse’s K (2.5*D50)
13 0.3 Minimum depth value considered as water
Output Files
The outputs after each run are:
P M 0 1 N E I G H . D A T L L N N N E I G H . D A T
P M 0 1 5 9 0 0 . D A T L L N N 5 9 0 0 . D A T
P M 0 1 6 0 0 0 . D A T L L N N 6 0 0 0 . D A T
Where:
A–I Are the columns of the matrix and they do not appear in the file.
CoorX X coordinate in the cell beginning from West to East.
CoorY Y coordinate in the cell beginning from North to South.
NumCel Is the identification number of cell.
SupA Is the value of free added surface.
VelX is the X component of the velocity of the current induced by waves in m/s
VelY is the Y component of the velocity of the current induced by waves in m/s
Vel is the value of the velocity of the current induced by waves in m/s
Dir is the angle of the current in each cell
Prof is the depth of the cell; -99 mean land and positive values are the local depths
Página 14 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
Página 15 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
Figure 16. Window that appears when the points file is selected
3. The window opened is like the window in Figure 17, in which the proprieties of the mesh will
be specified.
The brown box indicates the order of column of the file.
The purple box indicates the kind of the interpolation of the mesh; it has to be the Triangulation with
Linear Interpolation or Kriging.
The orange box specifies the path, kind and name of file.
Página 16 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
Coordinates
Size of the
grid
Página 17 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
Parameters to
export
Página 18 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
Input file
To execute this, the file with the (x, y, z) are required. The structure of the file is the following:
Name file: inputdata.txt (the name has to be made of 13 characters, the extension is included)
1 C Commentary line
2 XYZ_COORD.TXT Name file of points (13 characters including the extension)
3 452326.256 Coordinate X of base point of spin
4 2562369.544 Coordinate Y of base point of spin
5 0.0 Value of change of elevation
6 60.0 Angle of spin in degrees
7 XYZ_RESUL.TXT Name file of mesh rotated (13 characters including the extension)
To execute it is necessary to include the executable and the file input in the folder.
Página 19 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
Program execution
Once the configuration of the file input is made, the next steps are followed:
1. Click twice on the executable GiraC.exe. A window like that in Figure 22 will open.
Página 20 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
Window of
properties for
format of the
map
Página 21 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
Window of
properties to give
format to the map
Página 22 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
Coordinates
Size of the
grid
Página 23 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
Página 24 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
3. In the Object manager window select the point map created and in the properties window
change the columns shown in the orange box in the Figure 33.
Figure 34. Map display after changing the values of the properties box
Página 25 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
4. The default symbol given for the program is a cross, this should be changed for an arrow
with the direction to the East (), that can be done in the Property Manager box → Default
Symbol → Marker properties → Symbol. Finally in the same section of the window change the
frequency until the desired display is obtained. The size of the arrow can be changed in the Symbol
size section, the Sizing method should be “Proportional”.Push the button “Scaling” and a window will
open in which the “Worksheet column containing height” must be the Column G (current velocity), as
is shown in Figure 35.
Página 26 de 27
Coastal Erosion and Management for Safer Coasts in a Changing
Climate (CEMSAC), Recife, Brazil
September 9-22, 2013
References
Berkhoff, J. (1972). Computation of combined refraction-diffraction. Proc. 13th. International
Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE., Vancouver, Canada.
Chamberlain, P. and D. Porter (1995). "The modified mild-slope equation." Journal Fluid Mechanics
Vol. 29: pp. 393-407.
Kirby, J. and R. Dalrymple (1986). "Modeling waves in surf zone and around the islands." Journal of
Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Division, ASCE. Vol. 112.
Kirby, J. and R. Dalrymple (1994). Combined Refraction/Diffraction Model REF/DIF 1, Version 2.5.
Documentation and User’s Manual. Research Report No. CACR-94-22, Center for Applied Coastal
Research, Department of Civil Engineering, Universidad de Delaware, Newark, USA.
Losada, I., R. Silva, et al. (1996). "Interaction of non-breaking directional random waves with
submerged breakwaters." Coastal Engineering Vol. 28.: pp. 249-266.
Massel, S. (1993). "Extended refraction-diffraction equation for surface waves." Coastal
Engineering Vol. 19.: pp. 97-129.
Silva, R., Borthwick, A., Taylor, R. (2005) “Numerical implementation of the harmonic modified mild-
slope equation” Coastal Engineering Vol. 52.: pp. 391-407.
Silva, R., Baquerizo, A., Losada, M. and. Mendoza E. (2010) “Hydrodynamics of a headland-bay
beach-Nearshore current circulation.” Coastal Engineering Vol. 57.: pp. 160-175.
Página 27 de 27