EMBROIDERY

NAME: Deepika Karwa

CLASS: DFD July 2018
COLLEGE: JD Institute of
Fashion Technology
 Phulkari
Phulkari, which literally translates into ‘flower work’, has a history etched in the culture
of Punjab. Spun from the charkha this spectacular style of embroidery is patterned on
odinis, shawls, kurtis and chunris. The main characteristics of this embroidery are the
use of darn stitch on the wrong side of cloth with colored silken thread. A face of fashion
that finds its first mentions in Punjabi folklore of the romantic protagonists Heer and
Ranjha, Phulkari is a dream weaver for every Punjabi girl.
Origin and History

Phulkari is brought to the Indian Subcontinent by the migrant Jat people of Central Asia
in ancient times. Techniques and patterns were not documented but transmitted by word
of mouth. The tradition was associated with the Sikh heritage but was also shared with
Hindus & Muslims. It has its origins in the famous love story of Heer & Ranjha (a love
tale) by Waris Shah. It’s a present form and popularity goes back to 15th century. The
embroideries were a mere reflection of a woman’s life and every woman had her way of
representing.

The Comeback of Phulkari

The embroidery took a backseat with the division of India and Pakistan. However, it soon
sprang back up like an evergreen style statement. Even though there is an inimitable
demand for Phulkari work till date, there are limited credible sources left from where one
can purchase a hand-woven Phulkari fabric. With commercialization of the needlework,
quicker methods of production were devised.
Sources of Inspiration

Thread by thread, each motif was created in a geometric grid, which was a peculiar
technique for coming up with a curvilinear final output. Long and short darn stitch was
put to clever use for creating horizontal, vertical and diagonal thread work, inspired by
routine of the artists, flowers, and animals.
Interesting Facts and Comparisons
 The silk thread that was traditionally used in Phulkari work was straighter than an
uncoiled steel wire
 A heavy phulkari work dupatta can cost almost as much as a banarasi silk saree
 Phulkari embroidery makes use of the least complicated patterns to create extremely
intriguing designs
 Originally Phulkari was done as a pass time by women of Punjab
 It takes at least 80 days to finish a Phulkari salwar kameez
 The first mentions of Phulkari work were found in the Punjabi text on Heer and Ranjha
 The patterns of Phulkari are neither drawn nor traced
 Bollywood actor Priyanka Chopra adorned a Phulkari Churidar Kameez in the movie ‘Teri
Meri Kahani’
 Origin and History

Phulkari is brought to the Indian Subcontinent by the migrant Jat people of Central Asia
in ancient times. Techniques and patterns were not documented but transmitted by word
of mouth. The tradition was associated with the Sikh heritage but was also shared with
Hindus & Muslims. It has its origins in the famous love story of Heer & Ranjha (a love
tale) by Waris Shah. It’s a present form and popularity goes back to 15th century. The
embroideries were a mere reflection of a woman’s life and every woman had her way of
representing.

Kashida Embroidery
Known to be one of the most ancient and traditional type of intrinsic art, Kashida
Embroidery, also spelled as Kasida defines its cultural essence through the medium of
bead and threadwork, which has gained maximum popularity, fame and recognition in
the ethnic land of Jammu and Kashmir. The purest essence and forms of nature like
birds, leaves, trees and many such natural motifs are replicated in this embroidery with
multi colored threads and beads woven into the fabrics like shawls and saris.

Origin and History

The land of Kashmir etched its beautiful essence in the form of Kashida embroidery into
the fashion world way back in the Mughal period which was patronized by the
emperors and the royals of that era. However, if we go further up along the paths of
historical archives of fashion, it can be found that this embroidery was also creatively
initiated by the residents of Srinagar. Intrinsic needlework and quality were webbed
into the finest maze of creativity and innovation using a wide spread of colours and
patterns which intertwined the mood and spirits of the craftsmen with the essence of
the pure nature, and that too through the traditional form of embroidery which involved
the role of one or two styles of embroidery stitching.
Influence over the years

Kashmiri embroidery blended its essence together and came out with various forms of
nature influenced motifs and designs which defined the Indo Persian floral pattern and
design outlook in the artwork of Kashida.
Interesting Facts and Comparisons
 Initially it was men who initiated this artwork into the embroidery world.
 Famous Bollywood movie ‘Kashmir Ki Kali’ showcased this artwork on the outfits worn
in the movie.
The Story behind Origin of Kantha Embroidery

Interestingly, Kantha embroidery derives its name from the same word
with two different meanings. ‘Kantha’ means ‘rags’ in Sanskrit, which
reflects the fact that Kantha embroidery is made up of discarded
garments or cloths. The word also means ‘throat’ and was named so
due its association with the Hindu deity, Lord Shiva. The Samudra
Manthan, a popular episode in Hindu mythology, describes that in order
to protect the world, Lord Shiva consumed the poison that came about
due to the churning of the ocean. Goddess Parvati was shocked by Lord
Shiva’s actions and wrapped her hands around his neck, strangling Lord
Shiva and stopping the poison in his throat, rather than allowing it to
drop to the universe that is held in Lord Shiva’s stomach. The potency of
the poison caused Lord Shiva’s neck and throat to turn blue, therefore
giving him the moniker, Nilakantha; ‘nila’ translates to ‘blue’.
Kantha is one of the oldest forms of embroidery that originated in India.
Its origins can be traced back to the ancient pre Vedic ages, however,
Kantha embroidery as we know it today was found in Krishnadas
Kaviraj’s 500-year-old book, Chaitanya Charitamrita. Motifs found in
early Kantha embroidery include many symbols that were derived from
ancient art. These symbols depict or are reflective of nature, such as the
sun, the tree of life and the the universe. It was not until later that Kantha
embroidery was used as a medium of cultural and religious significance,
which came about as a result of Hinduism's influence and was used in
ceremonies and pujas, including to celebrate weddings and births.
Rural housewives in West Bengal played a significant part in the
evolution of Kantha embroidery. It was customary for these women to
make use of Kantha’s widely used running stitch and embroidery
techniques to create quilts for their families, as well as embroider
personal fabrics and garments such as sarees, dhotis and handkerchiefs
with simple running stitches along the edges. For centuries, the
techniques of the hereditary craft were, and still are, passed down from
mother to daughter. Though it continued to be practised amongst rural
women, recognition of the craft faded over time, until it was revived on a
global scale in the 1940s by the renowned Kala Bhavana Institute of
Fine Arts, which part of the Visva-Bharati University in Shantiniketan,
West Bengal. It was revived yet again by Shamlu Dudeja in the 1980s
when she founded Self Help Enterprise (SHE) that helped empower
women and their livelihood through Kantha embroidery.