RP Pattern Talia Twist Top A4

Talia Twist Top
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Ladies XXS to 5XL

What’s Inside
____________________
Getting Started 4
Printing Your Pattern 5
Settings 5
How to Print Only the Size You Need (Using Layers) 6
Printing the Instructions 6
Talia Twist Top 7
Size Chart 7
Finished Garment Measurements 8
Materials & Tools 9
Cutting Instructions 10
Fabric Tips 12
Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics 12
Quick-Glance Cheat Sheet 13
Sewing Instructions 14
STEP 1 – Back Neck Binding 14
STEP 2 – Back Hem 17
STEP 3 – Front Pieces 17
STEP 4 – Shoulder Seams 18
STEP 5 – Side Seams 22
STEP 6 – Sleeves 27
Pattern Pieces 31
Website
rebecca-page.com
Facebook Page
facebook.com/rebeccapageofficial
Facebook Group
facebook.com/groups/mummykinsandme
Instagram
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#rebeccajpage
Pinterest
pinterest.com/rebeccajpage
Twitter
twitter.com/rebecca_page
Newsletter
rebecca-page.com/newsletter
Email
info@rebecca-page.com
YouTube
youtube.com/user/rebeccapage1
Product Sales & Licensing Information

____________________
This pattern is copyrighted 2019 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com.
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we’d love you to include a credit to
rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it’s up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced.
You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!

Getting Started
____________________
Need help? Have a question?
Join our Facebook Group at

https://www.facebook.com/groups/mummykinsandme/
You can get help, ask questions, share your tips and shortcuts and share your creations! We’re a
friendly bunch and we love helping out and seeing what you’ve made. J
Before you get started…
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Make sure to wash, dry and press your fabric before you cut out your pattern pieces. Fabric can often shrink
by significant amounts on the first wash. To avoid your beautiful creation ending up an inch too small or
twisted out of shape, pre-wash the fabric now before you get started. It might be a pain if you just want to
start straight away, but a bit of prep now means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons
or anything they could remove, choke on or get caught on. Never let them sleep in garments with ties on and
use caution if you are at all unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
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© Copyright 2019 R E B E C C A P A G E by rebecca-page.com
Printing Your Pattern
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Settings
The pattern is printed at the back
of this booklet. It is designed to be
printed on A4 paper at 100%. If
you wish to print on US Letter,
please download the US Letter size
version. Make sure that the “fit to
page” option is not checked on
your printer options.
On the first page, you will find a 1-

inch square test box. Print this
page first on its own and check the
measurements of the square.
Once you are happy that the test
box is accurate, you can print the
rest of the pattern pages.
This is a “no-trim” pattern which

means you don’t need to trim the
edges off around the rectangles
unless you wish to. Once you’ve
printed your pattern, tape the
rectangles together using the
diagram here for reference,
overlapping the circles in each corner. Each page is marked in the bottom left corner. The numbers go across;
the letters go downwards. The first row of pages will be A1, A2, A3 and so on. The row below that B1, B2, B3
and so on.
The sizes are differentiated by both different line styles, and different colors. It is up to you whether you wish
to print in color, or in black and white.
Print at 100% (no scale), in black and white or color
Pages to Print
Size
Short Sleeves ¾ Sleeves Long Sleeves
XXS – S 31-44, 47-48 31-45, 47-49 31-50
M – 5XL 31-48 31-49 31-50
| Page 5
How to Print Only the Size You Need (Using Layers)
This pattern uses layers so you can print only the sizes you want.
Open the pattern in Adobe Reader (not your internet browser).
Click on the “layers” button on the very left of the
screen. Unselect all sizes except the size you want.
Leave the “Common Elements” and “Splitting Layer” on. Then
print!
NOTE – In this example only size 18-24 months would print.
Printing the Instructions

The instructions are designed for everyone from beginner upwards, so there are a LOT of pictures throughout
the instructions. For this reason, some people do not print these in full (however you can if you wish!). If,
however, you want to print a one page quick-glance cheat sheet (no photos, intermediate / advanced level
instructions), you will find this on page 13.
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Talia Twist Top
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Difficulty Level = Beginner
A cropped length top with a twist front meant to be worn over another top. It’s the perfect companion to
the Talia Tunic and Dress or the Strappy Cami. It has three sleeve length options, making it perfect to carry
you through the seasons.
Size Chart
This pattern has been designed to fit the following sizes:
Ladies’ Size Chart

Chest Waist Hips
Inches CM Inches CM Inches CM
XXS 30 – 31 71 – 79 24 – 25 61 – 63.5 33 – 34 84 – 86
XS 32 – 33 81 – 84 26 – 27 66 – 68.5 35 – 36 89 – 91.5
S 34 – 35 86 – 89 27 – 28 68.5 – 71 37 – 38 94 – 96.5
M 36 – 37 91.5 – 94 29 – 30 73.5 – 76 39 – 40 99 – 101.5
L 38 – 39 96.5 – 99 31 – 32 79 – 81 41 – 42 104 – 106.5
XL 40 – 42 101.5 – 106.5 33 – 35 84 – 86 43 – 45 109 – 114
XXL 43 – 45 109 – 114 36 – 38 91 – 96.5 46 – 48 117 – 122
3XL 46 – 48 117 – 122 39 – 42 99 – 106.5 49 – 51 124.5 – 129.5
4XL 49 – 51 124.5 – 129.5 43 – 46 109 – 117 52 – 54 132 – 137
5XL 52 – 54 132 – 137 47 – 50 119 – 127 55 – 57 140 – 145
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Finished Garment Measurements
Ladies Finished Garment Measurements (in INCHES)

Length Sleeve Length
(from center
Waist Chest
back to Short ¾ Long
hem)
XXS 26 29.1 12.7 7 13.1 21.2
XS 28.1 31.3 13.1 7.1 13.5 21.6
S 30.3 33.7 13.5 7.1 14 22
M 32.4 35.5 13.7 7.1 14.1 22.3
L 34.6 38 14.2 7.2 14.5 22.7
XL 38 41.2 14.4 7.3 15 23.2
XXL 41.1 44.3 14.7 7.4 15.3 23.7
3XL 44.4 47.7 15.0 7.6 15.7 24.2
4XL 47.7 51 15.4 7.7 16.1 24.7
5XL 51 54.4 15.6 7.7 16.5 25.2
Fitting Notes:
• Sizing is different in different countries and stores so please measure your model before picking your
size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Selecting Bodice Size – If your chest and waist measurements are in different sizes, pick your size by
your chest measurement. That way the armscye, bust and neckline will sit correctly. Print your
pattern with both your chest and waist size visible and grade either in or out at the waist as needed
(draw a gentle line between both sizes at the waist).
• Adjusting Bust – We design for a C cup bust but have found cup sizes A to D fit well without
adjustment. However, if you have over a D cup, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment).
Here’s a tutorial on how to do it (https://www.rebecca-page.com/product/fba-tutorial-twist-top/).
• Adjusting Height – This top is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If you are taller/shorter you
may need to add/remove length at the halfway point along the side seams.
• Muslin – I recommend you sew a muslin (test garment) first so you can get the perfect fit:
o Use an inexpensive knit fabric similar in weight and stretch to the final fabric you plan to use.
o Cut out the bodice and a sleeve. Label each piece with tailor’s chalk or fabric pen so you
know what each piece is.
o Baste the bodice together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
o Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
o If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try
on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy.
o Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ of an inch and pull out your basting stitches.
o These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces.
Continue to sew your final garment.
o Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources at
https://pinterest.com/rebeccajpage/sewing-fitting-advice/
| Page 8
Materials & Tools
• Fabric - Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight, however, best results and
fit will be achieved with a light to medium weight fabric. A fabric with 4-way stretch (stretches in all
directions) will give more drape than a 2-way stretch (only stretches in one direction). Great
examples are jersey, rayon, viscose, bamboo, ITY jersey, silk satin with elastine/lycra, and silk jersey
with elastine/lycra. These will give you a lovely drape. Do not use a woven fabric.
• The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure
your dress maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the
stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its
original size.
• Back Binding – If you are going to use the same fabric for the Binding as for your top, it needs to have
at least a 50% stretch for it to fit. To check this, hold a piece of your fabric up to a ruler, pull it along
the stretch and see if it stretches at least 1.5 times its length).
Ladies’ Fabric Estimates in YARDS

Sleeve Length
Short or ¾ Long
XXS 1 1
XS – 3XL 1.25 1.25
4XL – 5XL 1.5 1.75
* Make sure to wash, dry and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.
You will also need:

• Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, ruler, and a needle. A serger/overlocker is optional
but not required.
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Cutting Instructions
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Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so
just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however, if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the
dimensions for the rectangular pieces are below:
Cutting Chart (in INCHES)

Back Neck Binding
Width Length
XXS 1.8 10.8
XS 1.8 11
S 1.8 11.2
M 1.8 11.4
L 1.8 11.6
XL 1.8 12.2
XXL 1.8 12.6
3XL 1.8 13.2
4XL 1.8 13.6
5XL 1.8 14
Cutting Checklist:
• Front - Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
• Back - Cut 1 on fold
• Sleeve - Cut 2
• Back Neck Binding - Cut 1 on fold
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NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric in half. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the
fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel
to the two edges of the fabric that are finished.
| Page 11
Fabric Tips
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Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

On a REGULAR sewing machine
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a
regular sewing machine:
• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point
needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips
and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt
stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best
for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but
often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when
working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out
while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot
tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will
prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a
regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong
side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming
and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on
a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That
being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch
on your raw edges.
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.

From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.
| Page 12
Quick-Glance Cheat Sheet
(full step-by-step tutorial starts on next page)
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⅜ inch seam allowance included - Top stitching ⅛ inch
Sewing –
1. Back Neck Binding – Mark center of the Back and Back Binding pieces. With wrong sides facing up,
match center points. Pin along entire back neckline. Sew and press seam allowance up. Press raw
edge down to meet raw edge of back. Fold binding again, covering raw edges. Stitch close to the
folded edge.
2. Back Hem – Press and stitch ½ inch hem along back hem.
3. Front Pieces – Right sides together, pin, and sew along top and bottom edges. Turn right sides out
and press.
4. Shoulder Seams – Sandwiching one Back shoulder edge in between the two Front shoulder pieces,
pin and sew. Create the front twist by bringing the second Front shoulder up and repeat for second
shoulder seam.
5. Side Seams – Use a burrito roll to finish one side seam, then the other. Refer to step 5 for a video.
6. Sleeves – Create a memory hem at ½ on the bottom of the sleeve. Unfold memory hem. Pin and
sew side seam of Sleeve. Refold memory hem and topstitch. Insert Sleeve into bodice and sew.
Repeat for second Sleeve.
| Page 13
Sewing Instructions
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⅜ inch seam allowance included - Top stitching ⅛ inch
STEP 1 – Back Neck Binding

TIP – Test a sample of your binding on curved scrap of your fabric and stitch in place to see how much tension
you need when pinning. For some fabrics, you won’t need to stretch your binding at all as you pin it on, for
others you may need to stretch slightly or place a bit of tension on it as you pin. The goal is a smooth line
without bagginess or stretching.
NOTE – This is our preferred method for knit binding. If you have a favorite method, feel free to use it now!
1.1 Fold your Back Neck Binding in half to find the center
and mark with a pin.
1.2 Fold your Back piece in half to find the center, and
mark with a pin.
1.3 Matching up the center points, pin the Back Neck

Binding to the Back neckline, with both pieces wrong
sides facing up.
| Page 14
1.4 Pin the Back Neck Binding to each end of the neckline
on the Back neckline.
Continue pinning the Back Neck Binding to the

neckline.
1.5 Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
1.6 Press the seam allowance up.
| Page 15
1.7 Fold the raw edge of the Binding ⅜ inch toward the
wrong side, so that it meets up with the top of the
seam allowance.
NOTE – If you serged, it won’t quite meet the top of

the seam allowance, as you’ll have cut off a bit of
fabric.
1.8 Then fold the Back Neck Binding in half, wrapping it

around to the right side and pin in place.
All the raw edges should now be tucked inside the

Back Neck Binding.
| Page 16
1.9 Stitch close to the folded edge using a stretch stitch,
twin needle, or coverstitch.
If you have any Binding hanging over the ends of the

neckline, trim them so they are in line with the Back
piece.
STEP 2 – Back Hem

2.1 Turn the hem ½ inch to the wrong side, and press.
2.2 Stitch along the hem at approximately ½ inch, using a

stretch stitch, twin needle, or coverstitch.
STEP 3 – Front Pieces

3.1 With the right sides together, pin the Front pieces
together along the top and bottom edges.
| Page 17
NOTE – Clip corners before turning to help reduce bulk

when turned to right side.
3.3 Turn the Front pieces so they are right side out and
press.
STEP 4 – Shoulder Seams

To help with creating the shoulder seams in this step, we have made a short video. Have a read through of
the instructions below and then watch the video here – http://bit.ly/ShoulderseamsRP
| Page 18
4.1 With right sides together, lay the Front on top of the
Back, matching the shoulder seam.
Open out the front piece and wrap it around the back
and pin.
NOTE – The Back will now be sandwiched between the

two Front pieces.
| Page 19

| Page 20
4.3 Turn right side out.
4.4 Pick up the top corner of the unattached side of the

Front and flip it over. Match up the shoulder seam.
4.5 Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.3.
| Page 21
STEP 5 – Side Seams
To help with creating the side seams in this step, we have made a short video. Have a read through of the
instructions below and then watch the video here - http://bit.ly/SideseamsRP
5.1 With the top right side out, grab the side seam and roll
it up toward the other side seam.
| Page 22
5.2 Pick up the top layer of the side seam and bring up and
over the rolled up part, and under the Back until you
can match it up with the other two layers of the side
seam again. Pin the side seam together with the rolled
up section in between them.
NOTE – The Back will be sandwiched between the two

Front pieces. Make sure the hem of the Back piece is
all the way to the bottom of the side seam.
| Page 23
| Page 24

5.4 Reach in to the armscye and pull out the rolled up

part. Turn the top right side out.
5.5 Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.4 for the other side seam.
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| Page 26
STEP 6 – Sleeves
Transfer the markings for the front and back of each sleeve, from the pattern pieces to your fabric.
6.1 Fold the hem of the Sleeve ½ inch to the wrong side
and press. This will create a memory hem.
NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press

your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this
so that fold lines are pressed into the garment. It is
much easier to do this now, than to try and press the
Sleeve hem later when the Sleeve is stitched into a
circle. Some knit fabrics won’t hold this memory hem
as well as others.
6.2 Unfold the memory hem from the previous step. With
the right sides together, fold the Sleeve in half and pin
along the side seam.
| Page 27
6.4 Refold the memory hem you made in step 6.1, and pin
in place.
6.5 Stitch along the hem at approximately ½ inch, using a

stretch stitch, twin needle, or cover stitch.
6.6 Insert the Sleeve into the armscye of your top, with
the right sides together. Match up the side seams and
pin together.
| Page 28
6.8 Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.7 for the other Sleeve.
| Page 29
Congratulations, your Talia Twist Top is done. Enjoy! ♥
____________________
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group at

www.facebook.com/groups/mummykinsandme and show it off!
You can also tag us at @rebeccajpage

or use hashtag #rptaliatwist on Instagram so we can see it! ♥
See what everyone else made! Follow us on
Thank you for using a R E B E C C A PAGE pattern.
© Copyright 2019
All Rights Reserved
| Page 30

RP Pattern Talia Twist Top A4

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RP Pattern Talia Twist Top A4

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Copyright:

Verfügbare Formate

Talia Twist Top

Ladies XXS to 5XL

Product Sales & Licensing Information

This pattern is copyrighted 2019 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com.

Best of luck and happy sewing!

Need help? Have a question?

Join our Facebook Group at

Before you get started…

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

On the first page, you will find a 1-

This is a “no-trim” pattern which

Print at 100% (no scale), in black and white or color

NOTE – In this example only size 18-24 months would print.

Printing the Instructions

Difficulty Level = Beginner

Ladies’ Size Chart

Ladies Finished Garment Measurements (in INCHES)

Ladies’ Fabric Estimates in YARDS

You will also need:

Cutting Chart (in INCHES)

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.

⅜ inch seam allowance included - Top stitching ⅛ inch

⅜ inch seam allowance included - Top stitching ⅛ inch

STEP 1 – Back Neck Binding

1.3 Matching up the center points, pin the Back Neck

Continue pinning the Back Neck Binding to the

1.5 Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

1.6 Press the seam allowance up.

NOTE – If you serged, it won’t quite meet the top of

1.8 Then fold the Back Neck Binding in half, wrapping it

All the raw edges should now be tucked inside the

If you have any Binding hanging over the ends of the

STEP 2 – Back Hem

2.2 Stitch along the hem at approximately ½ inch, using a

STEP 3 – Front Pieces

NOTE – Clip corners before turning to help reduce bulk

STEP 4 – Shoulder Seams

NOTE – The Back will now be sandwiched between the

NOTE – Clip corners before turning to help reduce bulk

4.4 Pick up the top corner of the unattached side of the

4.5 Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.3.

NOTE – The Back will be sandwiched between the two

NOTE – Clip corners before turning to help reduce bulk

5.4 Reach in to the armscye and pull out the rolled up

NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press

6.3 Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

6.5 Stitch along the hem at approximately ½ inch, using a

6.7 Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

Join us at our Facebook Group at

You can also tag us at @rebeccajpage

See what everyone else made! Follow us on

Thank you for using a R E B E C C A PAGE pattern.

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