International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2004, 26, 19^29
Rheological characterization of hair shampoo
in the presence of dead sea salt
B. Abu-Jdayil, H. A. Mohameed, M. Sa'id and T. Snobar
Department of Chemical Engineering, Jordan University of Science and Technology, PO Box 3030, 22110 Irbid, Jordan
Received 25 September 2003, Accepted17 November 2003
Keywords: cosmetics, Dead Sea salt, hair shampoo, rheology, surfactants
Synopsis
In Jordan, a growing industry has been established to
produce di¡erent types of Dead Sea (DS) cosmetics
that have DS salt (contains mainly NaCl, KCl, and
MgCl2) in their formulas. In this work, the e¡ect of
DS salt on the rheology of hair shampoo containing
the sodium lauryl ether sulfate as a main active
matter was studied. The e¡ects of DS salt and active
matter concentration, and the temperature and time of
salt mixing, on the rheological properties of hair
shampoo were investigated. The salt-free shampoo
showed a Newtonian behavior at `low active matter'
(LAM) and shear thinning at `high active matter'
(HAM).The presence of DS salt changed the rheologi-
cal behavior of LAM shampoo from Newtonian (for
the salt-free shampoo) to shear thinning. On the
other hand, the behavior of HAM shampoo switched
from shear thinning to Newtonian behavior in the
presence of highconcentrationof DS salt.The addition
of DS salt increased the apparent viscosity of
shampoo to reach a maximum value that corres-
ponded to a salt concentration of 1.5 wt.%. Further
addition of DS salt led to a decrease in the shampoo
viscosity to reach a value less than that of the salt-free
sample at high salt concentration. Changing the mix-
ing temperature (25^45 8C) and mixing time (15^
120 min) of DS salt with shampoo has no signi¢cant
in£uence on the rheological behavior. However, the
mixing process increased the apparent viscosity of
salt-free shampoo.The power law model ¢tted well the
£owcurves of hair shampoo with and without DS salt.
Correspondence: B. Abu-Jdayil, Department of Chemical
Engineering, Jordan University of Science and Technology,
PO Box 3030, 22110 Irbid, Jordan. Tel: ‡962 2 7201000; fax:
‡962 2 7095018; e-mail: Jdayil@just.edu.jo
ß 2004 Blackwell Publishing Ltd
ReÂsumeÂ
En Jordanie, une industrie croissante a ëtë mise en
place a¢n de produire di¡ërents types de cosmë-
tiques a© base de sels de la Mer morte (DS) contenant
ces sels (pour la plupart,principalement NaCl, KCl,
MgCl 2) dans leurs formules. Dans ce prësent tra-
vail, l'e¡et de ces DS sur la rhëologie d'un shampoo-
ing a© base de lauryl ether sulfate de sodium
comme actif principal, a ëtë ëtudië. Les e¡ets de ce
sel de DS et de la concentration en matie© re active
ainsi que la tempërature et le temps de mëlange du
sel sur les propriëtës rhëologiques du shampooing
ont ëtë apprëhendës. Le shampooing exempt de sel
montrait un comportement Newtonien a© basse
concentration d'actif (LAM) et une rhëo-£uidi¢ca-
tion a© haute teneur en actif (HAM). La prësence de
sel de DS a changë le comportement rhëologique
du shampooing LAM, du Newtonien (pour le sham-
pooing sans sel) vers la rhe© o-£uidi¢cation. Par ail-
leurs, le comportement du shampooing HAM est
passë de la rhe©o-£uidi¢cation au Newtonien en prë-
sence de fortes concentrations de sels de DS. L'addi-
tion de sels de DS a accru la viscositë apparente
jusqu'a© une valeur maximale correspondant a©
1.5% (w/w). Des additions ultërieures de sel ont con-
duit a© une chute de la viscositë jusqu'a© une valeurs
infërieure a© celle du shampooing sans sel. Le chan-
gement de la tempërature de mëlange du sel (25 8C
a© 45 8C) et du temps de mëlange (15 a© 120 min)
du sel avec le shampooing n'a aucune in£uence
signi¢cative sur le comportement rhëologique.
Cependant, le procëdë de mëlange a augmentë la
viscositë apparente du shampooing sans sel. La
modëlization par puissance a correctement ajustë
les courbes d'ëcoulement du shampooing avec et
sans sel de DS.
19
Rheological characterization of hair shampoo
Introduction
Cosmetics are products of cosmetic chemistry, a
science that combines the skills of specialists in
chemistry, physics, biology, and medicine. Cosmetics
consist mainly of emulsions, which include creams,
lotions, bath products, shampoos, shaving products
. . ., etc. [1].
Surfactants are almost as ubiquitous as preserva-
tives in cosmetic products. They are the emulsi¢ers,
solubilizers, wetting and cleaning agents and foam
producers, and are found in every product category
from make-up to skin care as well as being the main
constituents of shower gels, bath foam, and sham-
poos. Anionic surfactants are generally used as the
prime surfactant in toiletries that foam, i.e. a sham-
poo, bath and shower product.They have a negatively
charged carboxylic, sulfate, or sulfonate group at the
end of an alkyl, aryl, or alkyl aryl chain and are com-
monly the sodium, potassium, magnesium, or
triethanolamine salts of these [2].
Many cosmetic processes such as new ingredient
selections, formulation preparations, material packa-
ging, and shelf storage are associated with a complex
£ow of materials. In addition, the application and
acceptance of cosmetics are dependent on the £ow
properties of the ¢nal products. Therefore, rheologi-
cal measurements are now required in various cos-
metics industries, including but not limited to the: (i)
quality control; (ii) storage stability under various
weather and transportation conditions; (iii) correla-
tion with sensory assessment and consumer evalua-
tion; (iv) e¡ects of formulation on consistency; and
(v) prediction of £ow behavior under manufacturing
or production environment conditions (e.g. pumping,
mixing, milling, and packaging) [3].
Numerous rheological studies have been con-
ducted on di¡erent cosmetics products (e.g. [4^6]).
By employing a fatty alcohol ether sulfate (FAES) as
the basic model surfactant, Balzer et al. [7] have mea-
sured the loss and storage moduli using an oscillation
viscometer. The formation of the liquid thread in the
anionic FAES system was investigated. The e¡ects of
many additives (such as NaCl, non-ionic surfactants,
and thickeners) on the rheology and the transient
network structure were also studied.
Yao and Patel [3] have demonstrated the applica-
tion of rheological measurements in characteriza-
tion of body lotions. The viscoelastic properties of
the tested lotions were successfully related with the
end-use performance properties such as applicability,
processing behavior, temperature sensitivity, and
20
B. Abu-Jdayil et al.
storage and thermal stability. Korhonen et al. [8] have
used the rheological measurements to determine
the optimal combination of surfactants in cream pre-
parations. Moreover, the rheological properties have
been used to test the consistency and stability of
creams prepared with di¡erent surfactant combina-
tions during 28-day storage period at three di¡erent
storage conditions [9].
In Jordan, a growing industry has been established
to produce di¡erent types of cosmetics. Dead Sea
(DS) cosmetics (including shampoos, creams, lotions,
masks, etc.) that have DS salt and/or mud in their for-
mulas are the main products of this industry. DS is
known, worldwide, to be one of the world's richest
sources of salts and minerals. These minerals have a
unique composition of chloride, bicarbonate, sulfate,
sodium, potassium, calcium, and magnesium that
endorse the DS with considerable curative properties.
It has been proved that DS salts have a lot of advan-
tages in minimizing some skin problems [10].The pre-
sence of DS salts in di¡erent types of cosmetics has
resulted in many problems during the production
and in the stability of the ¢nished product (creaming,
aggregation, and coalescence). One of these problems
is the maximum amount of DS salts that can be added
to the product without a¡ecting its stability and con-
sistency.
It is well known that that addition of the sodium
chloride to the shampoo a¡ects its viscosity. As more
salt is added, the shampoo becomes more viscous
until a maximum viscosity is obtained. After this
stage has been reached, further additions of NaCl
lower the viscosity [11]. To the best of our knowledge
the e¡ect of addition of DS salt on the rheology of cos-
metics product hair shampoo has not received much
attention in the literature. In this study, the e¡ects of
the presence of DS salt on the rheological properties
of anionic hair shampoo were studied. The e¡ects of
di¡erent processing relevant parameters such as salt
concentration and mixing conditions (temperature
and time of mixing) were investigated.
Materials and methods
Materials
The shampoo and DS salt were supplied to us by
Ammon for Dead Sea Salts and Soap Products,
Amman, Jordan. Two shampoo sorts were used in
this study. The ingredients of the shampoo used are
reported in Table I. The active matter consists of the
four components reported in Table I, summing to
ß 2004 International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 26, 19^29
Rheological characterization of hair shampoo B. Abu-Jdayil et al.

Table I Ingredients of the shampoos used the bob ¢ts and the outer wall of the bob itself. Two
bobs (MV2 and MV3) with lengths of 60 mm and
Concentration (wt.%) radii of 18.4 and 15.2 mm and a cup with a radius of
21.0 mm were used to form gap widths of 2.6 and
High active Low active 5.8 mm, respectively. The range of shear rate was
Ingredients matter matter 2.2^219.8 s 1. Pumping water to the jacketed vessel
of the viscometer using HAAKE D8 thermostat
Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 11.2 7.0 controlled the temperature of a shampoo sample.
Lauryl glycoside 3.3 2.75
Alkyl amine propyl dimethyl 3.0 2.1
amine betaine Sample preparation
PEG-15 Coco-polyamine 2.0 2.0
A fresh sample was poured into a jacketed vessel.
Then, a speci¢c amount of DS salt (0, 1, 1.5, 1.75, 2.0,
4, 8, or 10 wt.%) was added to the sample. Pumping
19.5 and13.85%. The term`high active matter' (HAM) water to the jacketed vessel controlled the tempera-
is used to refer to the shampoo with19.5% active mat- ture of the mixture. The mixture was heated up to a
ter, and the term`low active matter' (LAM) to refer to speci¢ed temperature (25, 35, or 45 8C). Otherwise
the shampoo with13.85% active matter. The comple- stated, the mixtures were kept at the speci¢ed tem-
ment (80.5 and 86.15%) contributes to the deionized perature for 30 min. The vessel was equipped with
water present. an impeller mixer of a curved-blade turbine type
Table II shows the chemical analysis of the DS salt (Stuart Scienti¢c Stirrer SS2 Stuart Scienti¢c Co.
used.The DS salt was washed with saturated solution Ltd, Cambridge, UK). The mixing process was per-
to remove the undissolved impurities and then dried formed at 300 r.p.m. Then, the mixture was kept
at 120 8C. The dried salt was added directly to the overnight at room temperature before conducting
shampoo. the rheological test.
In order to investigate the reproducibility of the
results, two replicates were made for the most of the
Rheological measurement
experiments, and the reproducibility was 3% on
The rheological properties of shampoo samples were average.
determined using a concentric cylindrical visco-
meter (Haake VT 500,Thermo Elec. Corp, Karslruhe,
Results and discussion
Germany). This viscometer encountered of a cup
and bob brand in which the sample is sheared in the
Fresh sample analysis
space between the inner wall of the cup into which
The rheology of fresh shampoo (salt-free sample) was
Table II Chemical analysis of the DS salt analyzed for di¡erent experimental conditions used
in this investigation. It should be ¢rstly pointed out
Component Concentration (p.p.m) that no surface slip was observed in the viscometer
system used. Figure 1 shows the £ow curves (shear
K‡ 114500 stress vs. shear rate) of HAM shampoo measured
Na‡ 25600 with two di¡erent systems, which have di¡erent gap
Mg2‡ 81200 widths. It is clear that the £ow curves of shampoo
Ca2‡ 2000 are independent of the measuring system. As the slip
Cl 382100
conditions encountered in a viscometer are a func-
Br 3100
SO42 450 tion of the gap width, the data points presented in
Fe2‡ 16.57 Fig. 1 show that there are no slip conditions in our
Zn2‡ 1.81 system.
Cu2‡ 1.48
Mn2‡ 3.33
Acid insoluble 1300 E¡ect of temperature
Water insoluble 1700
Total H2O 392400 Shampooing the hair is usually not done at a single
temperature, but, depending on personal habits, is

ß 2004 International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 26, 19^29 21

Rheological characterization of hair shampoo B. Abu-Jdayil et al.

1000
8
6 Fresh shampoo
4
T = 25 °C
MV3-system
2
MV2-system
shear stress (Pa)

100
8
6

10
8
6

1
2 4 6 8 2 4 6 8
1 10 100
shear rate (1/s)

Figure 1 Flow curves of fresh shampoo measured with two di¡erent measuring systems.

carried out at a range of temperatures. Therefore, the
£ow curves of salt-free shampoo were measured in
the temperature range of 5^45 8C. Figure 2 shows
the £ow curves of shampoo measured at di¡erent
temperatures and ¢tted to the Power law model:
t ˆ mg_ n …1†
where t is the shear stress, g² is the shear rate, n is the
£ow behavior index, and m is the consistency coe¤-
cient. The regressed values of m and n reported in
Table III show that the shear stress^shear rate rela-
tionship is linear at 15 8C, indicating that shampoo
behaves as a Newtonian £uid at this temperature.

1000
8
6
4

100
8
6
shear stress (Pa)

10 Fresh shampoo
8
6 Active matter = 19.5 %
4
T = 5 °C
2
T = 15 °C
1
8 T = 25 °C
6
4 T = 35 °C

2 T = 45 °C

0
2 4 6 8 2 4 6 8 2 4
1 10 100
shear rate (1/s)

Figure 2 E¡ect of temperature on the £ow curves of fresh shampoo. The solid line is the power law ¢t.

22 ß 2004 International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 26, 19^29

Rheological characterization of hair shampoo B. Abu-Jdayil et al.

 
Table III Power law parameters of fresh shampoo as a E
function of temperature m ˆ A exp …2†
RT
where A is the pre-exponential value, E is the activa-
Temperature (8C) m (Pasn) n R2 tion energy of £ow, R is the universal gas constant,
and T is the temperature in Kelvin. The plot of ln (m)
5.0 41.55 0.80 0.999 versus 1/T, as shown in Fig. 3, reveals A ˆ 1.00 Pasn
15.0 14.92 1.00 0.996 and E ˆ 8.13  10 3 J mol 1. The determined activa-
25.0 4.10 1.03 0.997
tion energy of shampoo is relatively small.
35.0 1.77 1.04 0.998
45.0 0.390 1.08 0.998
The apparent viscosity of shampoo was measured
by increasing (forward measurement) and decreas-
ing (backward measurement) the shear rate in order
R2 is the determination coefficient.
to test the presence of a time-dependent behavior.
Reducing the temperature to 5 8C switches the rheo- The apparent viscosity of shampoo measured at dif-
logical behavior of shampoo from Newtonian (n ˆ 1.0) ferent temperatures did show neither a thixotropic
to shear thinning (n ˆ 0.80). Balzer et al. [7] reported nor a rheopectic behavior. It was clear that the plot
that a typical shampoo showed a pronounced shear of the apparent viscosity versus the shear rate (not
thinning behavior. At high temperature (25^45 8C), shown) did not encounter hysteresis area.
the £ow curves of shampoo show small deviation
from the Newtonian behavior, with n greater than
unity. This deviation increases with temperature Dead Sea salt addition
but is still insigni¢cant (see Table III). The dilatant
or shear-thickening £ow behavior (for the case of E¡ect of mixing time
n > 1), in which viscosity increases with shear rate, Before examining the rheological behavior of hair
is seldom encountered in the cosmetics ¢eld. On the shampoo containing di¡erent amounts of DS salt, it
other hand, Table III shows that m (a measure of was considered necessary to establish the e¡ects of
viscosity) decreases considerably with temperature. experimental variables on the data, notably the
The dependence of m on the temperature can be e¡ects of mixing temperature and time. The e¡ect of
described well byArrhenius equation (see Fig. 3): mixing temperature will be discussed later.

3.6E-3

Fresh shampoo
Active matter = 19.5%

3.4E-3
ln (m)

3.2E-3

3.0E-3

-1.0 0.0 1.0 2.0 3.0 4.0

1/T (1/K)

Figure 3 Arrhenius plot of fresh shampoo.

ß 2004 International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 26, 19^29 23

Rheological characterization of hair shampoo
1.0
6
apparent viscosity (Pa s)
2
0.1
2 4
10
shear rate (1/s)
Figure 4 E¡ect of mixing time on the apparent viscosity of shampoo containing10 wt.% DS salt.
After adding 10 wt.% of DS salt to the shampoo
sample, they were mixed at 25 8C and 300 r.p.m. for
di¡erent periods of time, namely 15, 30, 60, and
120 min. It is clear in Fig. 4 that the apparent viscos-
ity of shampoo has a weak dependency on mixing
time. The mixing time of 30 min showed the maxi-
mum viscosity. Increasing the mixing time over
30 min reduced the viscosity. This behavior will be
explained later. Based on this result, the mixing time
was kept constant at 30 min in the rest of experi-
ments. In addition, Fig. 4 shows that the shampoo
samples with10 wt.% DS salt behave mostly as a New-
tonian £uid.
E¡ect of DS salt concentration
Di¡erent salt concentrations were added to the fresh
shampoo samples. They were mixed for 30 min at
300 r.p.m and at 25, 35, and 45 8C. Then, the rheo-
logical behavior was measured at 25 8C. The mixing
process changed the rheological behavior of the
fresh shampoo samples. An increase in the apparent
viscosity has been observed; in addition, the £ow
behavior switched from Newtonian to shear thin-
ning (see Fig. 5). It is known that the surfactants are
compounds, which above a critical concentration,
form micelles. Balzer et al. [7] found that the micelles
of 15% fatty alcohol ether sulfate (the main com-
ponent of hair shampoo) solution have an isometric
24
B. Abu-Jdayil et al.
Active matter = 19.5%
Salt conc. = 10%
Mixing temp. = 25 °C
t = 15 min
t = 30 min
t = 60 min
t = 120 min
6 8 2 4
100
shape, in particular, rods. The average length of these
polydisperse rods increased with surfactant concen-
tration, forming a temporary network structure. It
seems, in our case, that the mixing process enhances
the network structure, which leads to an increase in
the shampoo viscosity. This temporary network
structure rearranges itself as a result of shearing in
the viscometer, and the shear-thinning behavior
appears.
Figure 6 shows that the addition of DS salt
increases the apparent viscosity of shampoo to reach
a maximum value. It is clear to see in Fig. 7 that the
maximum viscosity corresponds to a salt concentra-
tion of 1.5 wt.%, regardless of the shear rate applied.
Further addition of DS salt leads to a decrease in the
shampoo viscosity, which reaches a value less than
that of the salt-free sample at 4% salt concentration.
Addition of DS salt to the shampoo causes growth of
the micelles until they overlap, whereupon the visc-
osity increases considerably [7]. This is because of
the formation of thread-like, £exible micelles, which
entangle with one another thus building up network
structure. After this stage has been reached, further
addition of DS salt increases the ion strength of
the solution, which increases the possibility for
the chemical reaction(s) between the DS salt and the
surfactant (sodium lauryl ether sulfate). Thus, the
decrease of shampoo viscosity results from a drastic
ß 2004 International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 26, 19^29
Rheological characterization of hair shampoo B. Abu-Jdayil et al.

300
Active matter = 19.5
Salt conc. = 0%
250
before mixing

Newtonian model
shear stress (Pa)
200 after mixing for 30 min at 25 °C

Power law model

150

100

50

0
5 15 25 35 45
0 10 20 30 40 50
shear rate (1/s)

Figure 5 E¡ect of mixing process for 30 min and at 25 8C on the £ow curves of salt-free shampoo.

1000 8
6 Active matter = 19.5 %
Mixing temp. = 25 °C
4 Mixing time = 30 min
2
100 8
shear stress (Pa)

6 Salt conc.
4
-------------
0%
2 1.0 %
10 8 1.5 %
6 1.75 %
4 2.0 %
2 4.0 %
8.0 %
1
2 4 6 8 2 4 6 8 2 4
1 10 100
shear rate (1/s)
Figure 6 E¡ect of DS salt concentration on the £ow curves of HAM shampoo. The solid line is the power law ¢t.

decrease in the micellar lifetime. We can recall here
the e¡ect of mixing time, where the viscosity of sham-
poo containing 10 wt.% DS salt decreases with the
mixing time. In the context of the above discussion,
it seems that increasing the mixing time increases
the available time for the chemical reactions bet-
ween the DS salt and the surfactant, which leads to
a decrease in the micellar lifetime.
It is worth mentioning that the addition of NaCl to
shampoo, which is usually used as a thickening

ß 2004 International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 26, 19^29 25

Rheological characterization of hair shampoo B. Abu-Jdayil et al.

30.0
Active matter = 19.5%
shear rate = 2.20 1/s
Shear rate = 6.116 1/s
apparent viscosity (Pa s)
20.0

10.0

0.0
0.0 2.0 4.0 6.0 8.0 10.0
salt concentration (%)
Figure 7 E¡ect of DS salt concentration on the apparent viscosity of HAM shampoo at di¡erent shear rates.

agent, gives the maximum viscosity at a concentra-
tion between 4 and 5 wt.% [7, 11]. In this study, addi-
tion of 1.5 wt.% DS salt leads to the same e¡ect,
which implies using less amounts of salts.
Figure 6 also shows that the power law model ¢ts
well the rheological behavior of shampoo in the pre-
sence of DS salt. The power law parameters reported
in Table IV show that the maximum m-value corres-
ponds to a salt concentration of 1.5 wt%, which con-
¢rms the above results. On the other hand, the £ow
index values (n) show that the shampoo behaved like
a shear-thinning material (with n smaller than
unity) and switched to a Newtonian material at high
DS salt content (at 8 and 10 wt.%), where it is
expected that the concentration of micelles is
reduced.
The e¡ect of DS salt concentration has also been
tested using hair shampoo with LAM equal to 13.85
wt.%. The LAM shampoo follows the behavior of
HAM shampoo for its response against salt concen-
tration. Figure 8 shows that the shampoo sample
containing1.5 wt.% DS salt has the maximum viscos-
ity. As shown in Table IV, the 1.5 wt.% sample has the
greatest m-value. On the other hand, the n-value
decreases from unity at 0 wt.% salt content to 0.902
at 8 wt.% salt content, which means that the addition

Table IV Power law parameters of shampoo as a function of DS salt

High active matter Low active matter

Salt concentration (wt.%) m (Pasn) n R2 m (Pasn) n R2

0.0 10.34 0.88 0.998 0.71 1.00 0.999

1.0 25.34 0.92 0.998 5.39 0.95 0.999
1.5 25.79 0.95 0.999 10.38 0.93 0.999
1.75 24.96 0.94 0.998 ± ± ±
2.0 24.85 0.88 0.999 8.83 0.92 0.999
4.0 5.22 0.87 0.993 3.21 0.93 1.00
8.0 0.70 0.99 0.998 0.80 0.90 0.996
10.0 0.54 1.00 0.995 ± ± ±

R2 is the determination coefficient.

26 ß 2004 International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 26, 19^29

Rheological characterization of hair shampoo B. Abu-Jdayil et al.

2 Active matter = 13.85 %

Mixing temp. = 25 °C
Mixing time = 30 min
100 8
6
shear stress (Pa) 4
Salt conc.
2 -------------
0%
10 8 1.0 %
6 1.5 %
4 2.0 %
2 4.0 %
8.0 %
1
2 4 6 8 2 4 6 8 2 4
1 10 100
shear rate (1/s)
Figure 8 E¡ect of DS salt concentration on the £ow curves of LAM shampoo.

of DS salt to the LAM hair shampoo changed its beha-
vior from Newtonian to shear-thinning one. This
behavior was more pronounced at high salt concen-
tration. Addition of NaCl was found to increase the
extent of non-Newtonian behavior of n-tetradecane
oil-in-water emulsion containing the ionic surfac-
tant sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) [12].
Comparing Fig. 6 with Fig. 8 reveals that the
viscosity of shampoo increases with increase in the
active matter concentration. It is expected that
increasing the active matter, which means mainly
increasing the surfactant concentration, would
increase the length of the thread-like micelles, thus
increasing the density of the network structure [7].
In order to gain an impression about the e¡ect of
DS salt on the viscosity of hair shampoo with
di¡erent contents of active matter, the following
viscosity factor was calculated at a constant shear
rate:
viscosity factor means that the salt addition reduces
the shampoo viscosity compared to the viscosity of
the salt-free sample. It is clear that the factor respon-
sible for this di¡erence in the response against the
DS salt is the sodium lauryl ether sulfate (see Table I).
In addition, Fig. 9 shows that increasing the shear
rate reduces the viscosity factor in the case of the
LAM shampoo, and this is because of the fact that
the behavior of the salt-free shampoo is Newtonian
(constant viscosity with shear rate), while the beha-
vior of the shampoo containing DS salt is shear thin-
ning (viscosity decreases with shear rate). On the
other hand, the e¡ect of shear rate on the viscosity
factor in the case of HAM shampoo is insigni¢cant.
It should be stated that the forward and backward
measurements of shampoo viscosity in the presence
of DS salt show that the salt has no e¡ect on the
time-dependent rheological behavior of shampoo.
And, the shampoo still behaves like a time-indepen-

Z Z0  dent material.
Viscosity factor ˆ salt  …3†
Z 0
where h0 is the apparent viscosity of salt-free sham-
poo and hsalt is the apparent viscosity of shampoo
containing di¡erent amounts of DS salt. Examination
of the viscosity factor presented in Fig. 9 indicates
that great enhancement in the viscosity of LAM
shampoo could be obtained by adding DS salt, com-
pared to the HAM shampoo. Negative value of the
ß 2004 International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 26, 19^29
g_
E¡ect of mixing temperature
The mixture of DS salt and HAM shampoo was pre-
pared at di¡erent temperatures; 25, 35, and 45 8C. As
shown in Fig. 10, increasing the mixing tempera-
ture increased not only the viscosity of shampoo
containing the DS salt but also the viscosity of the
salt-free sample. The result was no e¡ect of mixing
27
Rheological characterization of hair shampoo B. Abu-Jdayil et al.

20.0
LAM, shear rate = 2.20 1/s
LAM, shear rate = 6.116 1/s
HAM, shear rate = 2.20 1/s
HAM, shear arte = 6.116 1/s
10.0
viscosity factor

0.0

-10.0
0.0 2.0 4.0 6.0 8.0
salt concentration (%)
Figure 9 E¡ect of DS salt concentration on the viscosity factor HAM and LAM shampoos.

temperature on the viscosity factor. The increase of

viscosity of shampoo with mixing temperature
seems to be a result of the enhancement in the forma-
tion of thread-like, £exible micelles, which entangle
with one another, separate, and hook together again,
thereby building up networks that are temporary.
Conclusion
The fresh hair shampoo containing the sodium
lauryl ether sulfate as the main active matter behaves
like a shear-thinning material at 5 8C, as a Newto-
nian at 15 8C, and as a shear-thickening material at

300

250

salt conc.= 0%
shear stress (Pa)

200

salt conc. = 1.5%

150

Active matter = 19.5%

100
Mixing time = 30 min
Mixing temp. = 25 °C

50
Mixing Temp. = 35 °C

Mixing Temp. = 45 °C

0
5 15 25
0 10 20 30
shear rate (1/s)

Figure 10 E¡ect of mixing temperature on the £ow curves of HAM shampoo.

28 ß 2004 International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 26, 19^29

Rheological characterization of hair shampoo
higher temperatures. The dependence of viscosity
of hair shampoo on the temperature follows the
Arrhenius pattern. Agitating this shampoo with an
impeller mixer of a curved-blade turbine type at
300 r.p.m. for 30 min increases its viscosity and
changes its rheological behavior to shear thinning.
The viscosity also increases with increase in the tem-
perature of mixing. This behavior suggests that the
mixing process enhances the formation of micellar
network structure.
Increasing the surfactant concentration not only
increases the apparent viscosity of shampoo but also
changes the rheological behavior of shampoo from
Newtonian to shear thinning. Increasing the surfac-
tant concentration would increase the length of the
thread-like micelles, thus increasing the density of
the network structure, which rearranges under the
e¡ect of shearing to give the shear-thinning behavior.
Addition of DS salt increases the apparent viscos-
ity of shampoo by many orders of magnitude to reach
a maximum value at the salt concentration of 1.5
wt.%, regardless of the surfactant concentration.
Further addition of DS salt leads to a decrease in the
shampoo viscosity. Addition of DS salt to the sham-
poo causes growth of the micelles until they overlap,
whereupon the viscosity increases considerably.
After this stage has been reached, further addition of
DS salt decreases the viscosity of shampoo as a result
of a drastic decrease in the micellar lifetime with an
increase in the electrolyte concentration. It should
be mentioned the hair shampoo with and without DS
salt shows a time-independent rheological behavior.
Acknowledgements
The authors are grateful to Dr Hussam El-Ha¡ar and
Mrs Suha Abu-Salha from Ammon Co. for their kind
co-operation and material supply.
ß 2004 International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 26, 19^29
B. Abu-Jdayil et al.
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