1.

Introduction
The Lyocell fibre spinning process is a dry-wet spinning process, and the process of fibre formation
can be studied separately in the air gap and in the coagulation bath. The spinning dope, i.e. the
cellulose N-methyl-morpholine-N-oxide monohydrate (NMMO-MH) solution, can be melted and
solidified repeatedly without any change in its composition. The mass transfer between filament and
the environment in the air gap can be neglected. That is why the spinning process in the air gap can
be considered as melt spinning. The simulation of the melt spinning process is well known.
Any chemical reaction occurs in the coagulation bath, and cellulose is transformed to the solid state
by
diffusion of the solvent from the filament formed to the coagulation bath and water or diluted
NMMO/water from the coagulation bath to the fibre. Therefore, the Lyocell spinning process in the
coagulation bath can be considered as a wet spinning process without any chemical reaction.
However, the dependencies between the particular parameters of the spinning process are complex,
and experiments aiming at obtaining optimal conditions are long-lasting and expensive. The
disposition of a theoretical model and appropriate software would improve the optimisation process.
This work is an approach to the elaboration of such a model.

2.

Lyocell - One Fiber, Many Faces

HYG-5572-99

Joyce Ann Smith, Ph.D.

Extension Specialist, Clothing

Whether the need is denim for casual looks or sueded silk- like ensembles for
evening wear, lyocell can create the right look and the right fabric. In 1996, lyocell
became the first new generic fiber group in 30 years to be approved by the Federal
Trade Commission. Since then, lyocell has realized increasing visibility and
acceptance in the apparel market, especially in designer and better priced garments.
Its versatility and desirable properties provide many advantages, both functional
and aesthetic.

Background

Lyocell was developed by Courtaulds Fibers (now Acordis Cellulosic Fibers), an

international supplier of rayon. It entered the consumer market in 1991. The
properties and production processes were unique enough for the Federal Trade
Commission to designate it as a separate fiber group. The trade name for lyocell
produced by Acordis is Tencel®. Lenzing Fibers, another major manufacturer of
rayon, has also entered the lyocell market. This product is marketed as Lenzing
lyocell. An improved fiber, in terms of performance and properties, lyocell is also
friendly to the environment. Virtually all of the chemicals used in the production
process are reclaimed. The resulting fiber, lyocell, is both biodegradable and
recyclable.

Properties and Characteristics

Lyocell is a manufactured fiber, but it is not synthetic. It is made from wood pulp
harvested from tree farms for this purpose. Because it is made from a plant
material, it is cellulosic and possesses many properties of other cellulose fibers,
such as cotton, linen, ramie, and rayon - another manufactured but non-synthetic
fiber.

In many ways, lyocell is more similar to cotton than it is to rayon. Like other
cellulosic fibers, it is breathable, absorbent, and generally comfortable to wear. In
fact, lyocell is more absorbent than cotton and silk, but less so than wool, linen,
and rayon. It can take high ironing temperatures, but like other cellulosics will
scorch, not melt, if burned, and is susceptible to mildew and damage by silverfish.
Cellulosic fibers are not resilient, which means they wrinkle. Lyocell has moderate
resiliency. It does not wrinkle as badly as rayon, cotton, or linen, and some
wrinkles will fall out if the garment is hung in a warm moist area, such as a
bathroom after a hot shower. A light pressing will renew the appearance, if needed.
Also, slight shrinkage is typical in lyocell garments. Stability, overall, is similar to
that of silk and better than cotton or linen.

Lyocell has strength and durability. It is the strongest cellulosic fiber when dry,
even stronger than cotton or linen and is stronger than cotton when wet. Lyocell is
much stronger than rayon when wet. This property of high wet strength usually
determines the extent to which fabrics can be machine washed successfully (see
Care below).

Other desirable properties of lyocell are its luster and soft drape which makes it an
aesthetically pleasing fiber. Since it is a manufactured fiber, the diameter and
length of fibers can be varied. Lyocell can be made into microfibers (very fine
fibers), offering depth and body to fabrics combined with luxurious drape. Short
staple length fibers give a cotton-like look to fabrics. Long filament fibers are
successful in silk-like end uses. Lyocell blends well with other fibers including
wool, silk, rayon, cotton, linen, nylon, and polyester. It successfully takes many
finishes, both functional and those designed to achieve different surface effects,
and dyes easily. Overall, lyocell is a versatile fiber with many desirable properties.
Uses

Lyocell was initially marketed as and can generally be found in high end and
designer apparel. Production costs are greater than for cotton, making lyocell more
expensive in finished garments. However, as production increases and costs
decrease, expect to see more lyocell in moderately priced apparel. Lyocells soft
drape and luxurious hand make it very desirable in womens fashion garments as
well as mens shirts, particularly apparel traditionally made from silk. Other lyocell
end uses include denim, chino, and chambray casual wear. Look for these fabrics
in 100% lyocell as well as in blends with cotton, rayon, or polyester.

Tencel® lyocell gabardines take water resistant finishes for coatings. Other fabrics
successfully made from lyocell include jersey-knits, which exhibit a soft hand and
luster. As lyocell becomes more available and manufacturers gain experience
handling it, look for more varieties of fabrics including knits of all types, leotards
and hosiery, velvets, velours, and corduroys.

Look for Tencel® lyocell blended with Tactel® nylon in which the Tactel® is on
the surface for durability and wind and water resistance, while the Tencel® has
greater exposure on the backing surface for warmth, absorbency, and comfort.
Blends with wool and wool with Lycra® spandex and Tencel® have been
successful. Blends of lyocell with cotton, linen, and rayon, will continue to be
available, especially for spring, summer, and fall fashions. In addition, blends with
silk and rayon are common, especially in lightweight silky fabrics including those
with sueded surfaces.

To some extent, lyocell is available in home products including bath towels, sheets,
pillowcases, and window treatments. Industrial uses for lyocell include conveyor
belts (because of the fiber's strength), ultra-low tar cigarette filters, printers
blankets, abrasive backings, carbon shields, specialty papers, and medical
dressings.

Care

Because of its high wet strength and cellulosic or plant base, lyocell can generally
be either hand washed or machine washed and tumbled dried successfully;
however, some lyocell fabrics perform best when dry cleaned. Reading care labels
and following recommendations is especially important, since the type of
processing used in the manufacture of lyocell will determine whether dry cleaning,
hand washing or machine washing is recommended. (See "More Than You Might
Like To Know" below.)

Lyocell fabrics that require dry cleaning may have either a smooth or sanded
surface. If machine washed or hand washed, they could develop a "hairy" surface.
In addition, water spotting may be noticeable in some fabrics that are "spot"
cleaned to remove stains. Wrinkling may occur after wetting the fabric.

Hand washable/line dry lyocell fabrics are frequently knits (often blended with
rayon or cotton) or wovens, such as chambray or sandwashed "silk-like" fabrics.
When wet, fabrics made from lyocell become stiff and almost boardy. Although
this improves as drying occurs, undesirable stiffness may be removed by tossing
the garment into the dryer with a towel on low temperature to enhance the fabric's
softness and drape.

Machine wash and tumble dry lyocell fabrics are either treated with a special finish
or modified as they are manufactured. Look for woven and knitted fabrics, such as
jersey, sweaters and hosiery, sueded surface fabrics, denim, chino cloth for men's
and women's wear, and in household textiles including sheets and towels. These
fabrics can be machine washed and tumble dried much like cotton or
cotton/polyester blends are handled in the home laundry. Medium temperature
settings for water and drying are recommended as well as permanent press settings.
If line dried, be sure to toss in the dryer with a damp towel to soften the fabric after
it is dry or nearly dry.

Remember, lyocell is a cellulosic fiber and, as a result, will wrinkle. It may need a
slight touch up with a warm iron. Because lyocell is similar to cotton, it can take
medium to high temperature settings. The exception is fabric made from fine yarns
or microfibers. Heat will penetrate these fabrics more quickly with the potential for
scorching. In many instances, however, wrinkles are likely to hang out overnight,
particularly in a warm, moist environment.

Generally, use of oxygen or chlorine bleaches should not damage the lyocell fiber
itself, but may affect either dyes or resin finishes applied to the fabrics. Check care
instructions before treating with bleach. Also, because the surface of some fabrics
can be damaged when wet if subjected to abrasion, avoid excessive rubbing during
stain removal.

Overall, read and follow care label instructions. The different processing
treatments for lyocell determine the recommended care. As a consumer, you are
not likely to know the exact type of lyocell you have. Also, occasionally, the
lining, trim, or other construction materials may dictate a particular care method,
regardless of the fiber content and properties.
Description
Field of the Invention
_[0001] This invention relates to a process for the dyeing
and finishing of a lyocell fabric.
_[0002] In this specification, the term "lyocell fabric"
means a fabric formed, particularly woven or knitted, from
yarns at least some of which contain or consist of lyocell
fibres. Such yarns may comprise just lyocell fibres or they
may comprise a blend of lyocell fibres with one or more
other fibre types, which may be cellulose-_based or noncellulosic,
such as cotton, viscose, linen, polyester and
nylon. Furthermore, the fabric may additionally include
yarns which do not incorporate lyocell fibres, for example
yarns of the other fibre types referred to and blends thereof.
_[0003] Lyocell fibres are produced by extrusion of a
solution of cellulose in a mixture of organic solvent and
water through a spinning jet into a coagulation bath by a
process known as solvent spinning. Such a process is
described in US-_A-_4,246,221 and uses as the solvent an
aqueous tertiary amine N-_oxide, particularly N-_methylmorpholine
N-_oxide. Lyocell fibres are distinguished from
other man-_made cellulose fibres which are produced by
forming the cellulose into a soluble chemical derivative
and then extruding a solution of this derivative into a bath
which regenerates the extrudate as cellulose fibres; viscose
fibres including the high-_strength modal types are
produced in this way.
Background art
_[0004] Lyocell fibres are known to have a tendency to
fibrillate during vigorous dyeing and finishing processes,
and there have been a number of methods of dealing
with this phenomenon. Where fibrillation is desired to be
avoided, then dyeing and finishing of lyocell fabrics is
carried out using relatively gentle processing such as
pad-_dyeing of open width fabric, and a resin-_finishing
treatment using a crosslinking agent is carried out on the
dyed fabric to protect the fibres against fibrillation in subsequent
laundering processes.
_[0005] Another method of dealing with this fibrillation
tendency of lyocell fibres is to treat the fibres so as to
remove the relatively long protruding fibre ends which
are formed in the first stage of the fibrillation process (socalled
"primary fibrillation") and which otherwise produce
a hairy effect, often matted, on the surface of the fabric
and so disfigure its appearance. On the other hand, the
development of the shorter fibrils which are formed in the
fibrillation process (so-_called "secondary fibrillation") is
encouraged. These shorter fibrils create a surface finish
which is characterised as being "clean", in the sense of
being substantially free from a hairy effect, and as having
a soft touch imparted by the shorter fibrils on the surface
and referred to as a "soft-_touch finish". When the shorter
fibrils are sufficiently developed then the soft touch of the
fabric surface is more pronounced and the soft-_touch finish
is referred to as a "peach-_touch finish".
_[0006] An example of this approach is described in
WO-_A-_95/30043 and involves removing the product of
primary fibrillation formed during a dyeing process by a
post-_treatment with an aqueous solution of an acid catalyst
such as a metal salt which is a Lewis acid, used in
conjunction with an optional crosslinking agent such as
an N-_methylol resin, and heating under conditions similar
to those used to cure crosslinking resins in conventional
crosslinking treatments. Another example is described
in WO-_A-_97/30204 where, before dyeing, the lyocell fabric
is given a pre-_treatment with an aqueous solution of
an oxidising agent such as sodium hypochlorite or hydrogen
peroxide at elevated temperatures. A further example
is described in GB-_A-_2314568 and involves use
of the dyeing machine itself, for example a jet dyeing
machine, to subject the lyocell fabric to an extended treatment
with an aqueous solution of a strong mineral acid
such as sulphuric acid for 30 to 120 minutes before rinsing
the fabric and then commencing the dyeing sequence
in the machine. Each of these processes has been difficult
to control to produce consistent results, and none of
them has been taken through into full-_scale commercial
operation.
_[0007] One process which has been used successfully
in commercial processing involves a post-_treatment of a
lyocell fabric which has been subjected to a wet processing
operation such as dyeing. The protruding fibre ends
produced in primary fibrillation are removed in this posttreatment
by applying to the fabric a solution of a cellulase
enzyme. The desired secondary fibrillation is developed
in subsequent processing, for example in the dyeing
process itself (if later) or in subsequent washing and drying
steps using rotary tumbling machines to produce a
soft-_touch finish on the surface of the fabric.
_[0008] Cellulase enzyme treatments are successful in
removing the long fibre ends produced in primary fibrillation
from the surface of the fabric but are expensive
both in terms of material costs and in terms of processing
time. Moreover, cellulase enzyme treatments are not
usually successful in removing the visible crease marks
which are produced in the most-_widely used fabric dyeing
process of water-_driven jet dyeing. In these jet dyeing
machines, the fabric is subjected to vigorous liquid and
mechanical action whilst in rope form and this produces
pronounced abrasion at fold lines, which manifests itself
in the dyed fabric as visible crease marks, sometimes
called rope-_marks.
_[0009] Dyed fabrics with visible crease marks are not
of commercial value, and for this reason it has not been
possible to dye lyocell fabrics to a consistent commercial
standard using conventional water-_driven jet dyeing machines.
This is a substantial commercial limitation given
their widespread adoption in dyeing and finishing plants.

Disclosure of the Invention

_[0010] The present invention provides a process for
producing a dyed and finished lyocell fabric having a
clean, soft-_touch finish by dyeing a lyocell fabric using
vigorous action on the fabric so as to produce fibrillation
on the surface of the fabric, and then washing and drying
the dyed fabric characterised in that, before the dyeing
step is carried out, the fabric is evenly impregnated with
an aqueous solution of an acid or acid donor and is then
heat treated in a gaseous atmosphere to activate the
action of the acid or acid donor, and that at least one of
the subsequent washing and drying steps is carried out
in a rotary tumbling machine, whereby the dyed and finished
fabric has a clean, soft-_touch finish substantially
free from visible crease marks normally produced on lyocell
fabrics which have been subjected to vigorous action
in dyeing.
_[0011] The vigorous action on the fabric applied during
dyeing is primarily required for the particular process
function being undertaken, examples being the vigorous
action imposed on the fabric when being dyed in a jet
dyeing machine or in a drum dyeing machine for garments.
Washing on drying the dryed fabric in rotary tumbling
machines such as wet tumbling machines or tumble
dryers also applies vigorous action to the fabric. This vigorous
action also produces fibrillation in a lyocell fabric
which, but for the control imposed by the process of the
invention, would mar the surface finish of the fabric with
a hairy effect and risk the formation of the visible crease
marks referred to.
_[0012] The ability of the process of the invention to
deliver dyed lyocell fabrics having a clean, soft-_touch finish,
particularly a peach-_touch finish, free from visible
crease marks after a vigorous action dyeing step such
as jet dyeing and rotary tumbling is of great commercial
importance. It means that the fabric can be processed
on existing equipment using normal process routines
without the need for excessive care in handling or extended
processing times. For example, a dyeing cycle of
six hours or less may be used in a jet dyeing machine.
Suitable conventional water-_driven jet dyeing machines
include the machines known as Thies Ecosoft, and Hisaka
Circular CUT-_SL. Air jet dyeing machines, which
also impose a vigorous action on the fabric, may also be
used. Suitable air jet dyeing machines include the machines
known as Thies Airstream, Thies Luft Roto, Hisaka
AJ-_1, Krantz Aerodye, and Then AFS.
_[0013] Conventional dyes and dye recipes for cellulosic
fabrics may be used in the process of the invention,
including those based on direct dyes, vat dyes, sulphur
dyes and reactive dyes.
_[0014] In addition to its application to woven and knitted
lyocell fabrics in the length, the process of the invention
can also be used in respect of the dyeing and finishing
of piece goods or garments made from lyocell fabrics.
Such garments can suffer from visible crease marks
caused by localised abrasion during vigorous processing,
such as drum dyeing or wet tumbling or tumble-_drying,
but this is largely avoided if the garments are subjected
to the process of the invention.
_[0015] The application of the solution of the acid or
acid donor and the subsequent drying and heat treatment
step may be carried out on the lyocell fabric prior to its
being converted into piece goods or garments. However,
it may also be applied to the piece goods or garments
after conversion.
_[0016] The avoidance of visible crease marks is the
main benefit imparted by the process of the invention,
but it has also been found that the clean, soft-_touch finish
on the product lyocell fabric is protected to some extent
against further abrasion damage in subsequent processing.
In particular, articles comprising the dyed fabric, such
as garments or other piece goods, retain their clean, softtouch
finish through repeated laundering cycles.
_[0017] The solution of the acid or acid donor is preferably
an aqueous solution. The fabric may be evenly impregnated
with this solution using any of the conventional
techniques for applying liquids to fabric, as by padding.
Fabric in the length may be passed in open width through
a pad bath of the aqueous solution, usually with a wet
pick up of the solution in the range 65 to 80 per cent by
weight on weight of fabric.
_[0018] Piece goods such as garments may be immersed
in the solution in a vessel such as a drum washing
machine.
_[0019] The acid or acid donor is preferably a weak acid
of the type used as a catalyst for resins used in textile
finishing processes. Suitable acids or acid donors include
organic acids, such as citric acid and tartaric acid, and
Lewis acids. Magnesium chloride, ammonium chloride,
zinc chloride, zinc fluoroborate and zinc nitrate are suitable
weak acids or acid donors. Mixtures of two or more
of these compounds may also be used, and, indeed,
manufacturers of acid catalysts for resin finishing sometimes
use mixtures in their catalyst formulations. An example
of a commercial product which can be used in the
process of the invention is Condensol FB (trade mark of
BASF AG), an acid catalyst comprising a mixture of magnesium
chloride and zinc fluoroborate.
_[0020] Optimum solution concentrations of the acid or
acid donor depend upon the particular acid or acid donor
used; lower concentrations with highly active materials
to avoid unwanted acid damage to the fabric and higher
concentrations with less active materials. For commercial
products, the manufacturers recommend concentrations
for resin-_finishing processes, and, in general, such
concentrations may be used in the process of the invention.
Thus, organic acids can be used in the concentration
range of about 2 to 20 grams per litre in aqueous solution,
for example about 4 to 6 grams per litre in the case of
citric acid. Less active acids or acid donors may involve
or require greater concentrations, for example up to
about 40 grams per litre in aqueous solution. Unnecessarily
excessive concentrations should be avoided in all
cases as these can cause unwanted acid damage to the
fabric. Avoidance of unnecessarily high concentrations
also minimises chemical usage.
_[0021] The impregnated fabric is heat-_treated in a gaseous
atmosphere, for example in a hot air oven. Air forms
the preferred gaseous atmosphere. It may be dried in a
separate drying step before the heat treatment, but preferably
the drying is just the initial stage of the heat treatment
step. The lyocell fabric preferably is treated in open
width, desirably under tension, for example on a stenter
passing through a heating oven or chamber. The temperature
of the gaseous atmosphere used in the heat
treatment is optimally chosen to be effective in initiating
the action of the particular acid or acid donor used. The
heat treatment serves to liberate acid in the gaseous
phase to interact with the lyocell fibres. In general, a temperature
in the range from 120°C to 220°C is suitable,
more preferably from 140°C to 200°C. Again, optimum
processing times depend upon the particular acid or acid
donor used, but processing times are usually in the range
from 30 seconds to 5 minutes. Any residual acid may be
removed from the fabric by washing or scouring the heattreated
fabric and then re-_drying it.
_[0022] If the yarns of the lyocell fabric have been sized
or lubricated to facilitate weaving or knitting, then the fabric
preferably is subjected to a desizing or scouring operation,
usually carried out prior to the impregnation with
the acid or acid donor. This desizing or scouring may be
a conventional operation in which the fabric is passed
through an aqueous scouring bath to remove the size or
lubricant. If desired, the fabric may be singed prior to
removal of size. If pre-_bleaching of the fabric is required,
then it is preferred that this is carried out prior to the impregnation
with the acid or acid donor, suitably after the
desizing step.
_[0023] Another possible treatment of the fabric is a socalled
causticising treatment with an aqueous sodium
hydroxide solution. If this is carried out it is preferably
carried out after the impregnation with the acid or acid
donor and the subsequent heat treatment but before the
dyeing step. Causticising is often carried out to improve
the flexibility of the fabric in the wet state. A process for
its application to lyocell fabrics is described in EP-_A-
0749505, where it is described as mercerising. Causticising
also enhances dyeability of the fabric which may
be slightly depressed by the acid treatment, and it has
the further effect that the fabric is modified in structure
which reduces the propensity for shrinkage in later wet
processing. After causticising, the fabric should be thoroughly
rinsed with hot water and then cold water to remove
residual sodium hydroxide.
_[0024] After being washed to remove any unfixed dye,
the dyed fabric may be given conventional finishing treatments,
including application of a soft-_finish as by a conventional
padding operation. This may be carried out after
the dyeing and washing processes without the need
for any intermediate drying of the fabric. If a wet tumbling
treatment is required to develop the soft-_touch finish, this
may be carried out in a rotary tumbling machine after
dyeing, either together with or after any soft finish treatment.
As with the dyeing step, the treated lyocell fabric
remains free from visible crease mark damage which can
otherwise occur during wet tumbling. The finished fabric
may then be given a final drying, for example in a tumbledrying
machine.
_[0025] Thus, in one embodiment there is provided a
process for, the dyeing and finishing of a woven lyocell
fabric, in accordance with the present invention, which
includes the following steps in the following order:_
1) removing size from the fabric by means of an
aqueous desizing bath,
2) padding onto the fabric an aqueous solution of an
acid or acid donor,
3) drying and heat treating the fabric, for example
between 120°C and 220°C, preferably between
140°C and 200°C,
4) dyeing the fabric, and
5) tumble-_drying the fabric.
_[0026] The invention is illustrated by the following Examples.
In all of the Examples, the lyocell fibres comprising
the lyocell fabric processed were produced by Tencel
Limited under the Trade Mark TENCEL.

Abstract
Lyocell fibres are known for their high wet
strength, silky lustre and strong fibrillation
tendency. The tendency of fibres to fibrillate, in
particular, opens up a number of possibilities for
researchers to modify the textile surface. In
textile processing, alkali treatment is an
important stage. This paper is a report on a
study of the fibrillation tendency in different
types of alkali-treated fibres. The effect of alkali
type on fibrillation tendency was observed to
follow the order: TMAH>LiOH>NaOH>KOH.
In a separate set of experiments, fibre samples
were first treated with alkali, neutralised and
then treated with distilled water. It appears that
treatment with NaOH and KOH decreased
fibrillation tendency in fibres. Alkali retention
values and water retention values of treated
fibre samples were also determined. It was also
found that softening agents, such as Siligen SIN
can also decrease fibrillation tendency. Two
different methods were used to determine
fibrillation tendency. Furthermore, the effect of
drying, at different temperatures, on fibrillation
tendency of fibres treated with softening agent
was studied. The result shows that drying
samples at high temperatures could reduce
fibrillation.
Keywords: fibrillation, alkali treatment,
softening agent, abrasion test, Lyocell fibre
INTRODUCTION
Lyocell fibre is a new regenerated cellulose
fibre produced by a novel route. Compared to
viscose, Lyocell is eco-friendly, since it is
manufactured by a non-polluting manufacturing
process and the fibres are 100% biodegradable
by both aerobic and anaerobic processes [9].
Lyocell fibres are widely used in making
artificial leather, coating substrates, medical
swabs and gauzes, filters bicomoposites, battery
separators, durable and disposable clothing.
They can also be used to produce high-strength
fabrics. Due to its special physical properties, a
wide variety of novel effects can be obtained on
Lyocell fibres such as peach skin, silk touch
and soft denim. Knit goods produced from
Lyocell are characterised by a pleasing soft
handle and excellent drape. Like cotton,
Lyocell exhibits outstanding wear comfort.
Fabrics produced from Lyocell fibre are
breathable, moisture absorbent and have
excellent dimensional stability i.e. virtually no
shrinkage occurs in household laundering.
Lyocell fibres, alone or in blends, are used
widely in apparel and other fashion [1].
Lyocell fibres distinguish themselves from
other fibres in the specific property of
fibrillation in wet state under impact of external
mechanical effects. Although the fibrillation
characteristics of Lyocell fibres makes possible
the creation of entirely new effects, an
appropriate selection of textile chemical
processing is necessary to avoid uneven
fibrillation on the fibre surface.
During abrasion of wet Lyocell fabrics, only the
surface fibres are fibrillated; a process is
referred to as “pre-fibrillation” or “primary
fibrillation”. Most reports on treatments of
Lyocell to reduce pre-fibrillation describe
treatments such as dyeing with reactive
dyestuffs or treating fabrics with crosslinking
Lenzinger Berichte, 82 (2003) 58-63
59
agents [8]. Textile chemical processing of
Lyocell fabric and their blends is an important
feature for optimising the use of such fabrics
for apparels. It is, therefore, essential that
conditions for such processes are optimised to
minimise fibrillation. (It has been observed that
most important stage in chemical processing of
different cellulose fibres and blends is response
of these fibres to treatments involving alkali at
different concentrations [2, 11]. During
scouring, mercerisation and dyeing with
reactive dyes, sodium hydroxide or sodium
carbonate is normally used. It is well known
that the fibrillation tendency of Lyocell fibres is
related to swelling state [4, 6, 7]. There is little
information on the effect of alkali treatment or
treatment with softening agents on fibrillation
tendency. In view of this, it is necessary to
examine the effect of different types of alkali at
room temperature on Lyocell fibres. In present
study effect of different types of alkali and
softening agents on fibrillation tendency have
been examined.

MANUFACTURE OF TEXTILES # 6

Background:

Most Australian textile mills still use traditional dyeing methods. To enable the dye
to be fixed on the fabric, undyed rolls undergo many hours of rough treatment,
including the use of a variety of chemicals; wear and tear by machines; enormous
amounts of hot and cold water; and treatment with up to 0.5 kilograms of salt per
kilogram of fabric.

A 100 per cent cotton fabric with a pre-bleach requires at least eight hours in the
dye machine. It is then detwisted, overspread and dried. The fabric is then returned
to the spreading unit and resin is applied. After this, the fabric is steamed
calendered, spread to width, rolled and packaged for shipping.

In 1958 the Australian Dyeing Company began operations at Clifton Hill, Victoria.
Twenty one  years later a second plant opened at Seymour. The company is
Australia's largest commission fabric dyehouse, processing both knitted and woven
fabrics. The company's specialty is dyeing large quantities of knitted fabric,
particularly 100 per cent cotton and cotton blends.

In late 1992, the Australian Dyeing Company-which treats 200,000 kg of fabric a

week in its two mills - began a restructuring strategy to reduce costs and increase
efficiency and productivity. The Program was made necessary by the Australian
economy and the influx of clothing imports. The Program investigated alternative
dyeing methods, and ways of reducing environmental impact.

Cleaner Production Principle:

New technology, Material substitution

Cleaner Production Application:

Two new processes were introduced viz., cold pad batch dyeing and the use of
Cibaron C dyes. Cold pad batch dyeing is a more environmentally-sound and high
quality dyeing method. The new dyeing system, specifically designed for dyeing
circular knits containing cotton, was developed by Beautech Ltd of Rock Hill,
South Carolina, United Sates. It is simple and compact, and the dyeing machine is
driven at running speeds of up to 55 meters a minute while reducing water
consumption by 88 per cent.
The process involved the purchase of two pieces of special equipment - a padding
machine which dyes the fabric and a trickle or rinsing machine. This investment
marginally increased the company costs.

As a result of the new process, the fabric undergoes less turbulence and so retains a
smooth, uniformly colored appearance with added luster and a soft drape and
handle

Environmental and Economic Benefits:

The project resulted in following benefits,

The process removes salt from the effluent

Consumption of  water and energy was reduced
The volume of effluent generated was reduced
The dyeing machine takes up less room on the production floor.
The process uses less chemical, and the switch to Cibacron C dyes further reduces the
color carried in the effluent
Cost is comparable with traditional dyeing but the quality is improved
Larger runs of fabric of the same color can be made
The company's image has improved as a result of the superior product

bout the Dyes

choosing the right dye for your fiber

Your choice of dye depends directly on what kind of fabric you are
using. You'll get bad results if you use a wool dye on cotton, or a
cotton dye recipe on wool, or either on polyester.

Dyes for Cellulose Fibers

These are your choices if you want to dye a t-shirt. Cellulose

fibers include cotton, linen, rayon, hemp, ramie, lyocell (Tencel),
bamboo, and pineapple plant fiber.

 Fiber Reactive Dyes (best choice)

 Direct Dye (hot water dye, less washfast)
 Vat Dyes (more complex method)
 Naphthol dyes (more hazardous, less available)
 All purpose Dye (hot water dye, less washfast)
Dyes for Protein Fibers

Protein fibers include all fibers made by animals: wool, angora,

mohair, cashmere, as well as silk. Silk is the only non-hair animal
fiber, and can be dyed like wool or like cellulose fibers, above.
The high-pH recipes used for most cellulose dyes will ruin animal
hair fibers.

Dyes that can be used for protein fibers include the following:

 Acid dyes
o Food coloring
o One Shot Dyes
o Reactive dyes used as acid dyes
o All purpose Dye (contains acid dye)
 Natural dyes (these work better on wool than on cotton)
 Lanaset/Sabraset dyes
 Vat Dyes

Also see Dyes for Protein Fibers.

'Soy Silk' is a new plant fiber, but, because it is made from

soybean protein, it should be dyed like animal fibers, instead.
Like real silk, it can also be dyed with fiber reactive dyes.

Dyes for Synthetic Fibers

Polyester

Polyester requires the use of disperse dyes. See Disperse Dye

for Polyester.

Nylon

Surprisingly, nylon, which is a truly synthetic fiber, happens to

dye quite well with the same acid dyes that work on wool and
other animal fibers, in addition to dyes that work on polyester.
For more information on dyes for nylon, see Dyes for Protein
Fibers. You'll want to test a swatch before committing yourself to
the project, as nylons vary.
 Spandex

Spandex can be dyed with metal complex acid dyes, but it is

much more common for hand-dyers to dye only the cotton
portion of a cotton/spandex blend. Polyester/spandex blends
cannot be dyed. See How to dye spandex.

Acetate

Acetate, also known as rayon acetate, requires the use

of disperse dye. (The other type of rayon, which is a cellulose
fiber, is also known as viscose rayon.)

Acrylic

Acrylic fiber can be dyed with disperse dyes or with basic dyes.

See Dyeing Acrylic with Basic Dye.

Ingeo

Ingeo is the trademark for a new synthetic fiber, polylactic acid

(PLA), made from corn. It is dyedlike polyester, using disperse
dyes, though it is evidently somewhat less washfast.

Polypropylene

Polypropylene (Herculon, Olefin) is dyed while still in liquid form,

before it is extruded into a fiber. It cannot be dyed at home.

Dyeing blends
Most cotton/polyester blends are best dyed as for cotton, using
fiber reactive dyes, leaving the polyester undyed. Cotton/nylon
blends may be dyed with all-purpose dye, or by successive dyeing
with a fiber reactive dye such as Procion MX, first with soda ash
at room temperature to dye the cotton, then in hot water with
vinegar to dye the nylon.

Fabric Paints
Pigments that are not naturally attracted to fibers may be mixed
with a gluelike binder to attach them to the fiber. "Pigment dyes"
are not dyes at all, but a type of fabric paint. See the Fabric
Paints page.
 Dyeing of Reactives -Cold Pad Batch

REACTIVE DYEING – Cold Pad Batch  

     Factors  influencing  Cold Pad Batch Dyeing

Substrate preparation and pH
Making up of  Colour and  Chemicals
Alkalie Proportionator
Fabric guiding system
The Pad box Dwell time in the pad box
    Facilities to assist better application and pick of the colour.
    Speed / Feeding rate and concentrationPad box pick up
Loading of the padding mangles
Selvedge thickness
Laboratory to Bulk reproducibility
Batch Rotation / reaction time
Washing off and Soaping.
Machine Cleaning 
In Process  Quality Control Check List

Reacatives -Cold Silicate Pad Batch

Exhaust method of dyeing and the related issues were discussed in the previous two
articles and the other important methods of dyeing of fabrics in open width with Reactive
are:

       Cold Pad batch

       Pad – dry - Alkalie pad batch           
       Pad – dry or wet on wet Alkalie pad steam        
        Pad – dry - bake    

Cold pad batch system offers the most economical and most convenient method of dyeing
Reactives. The energy and water consumptions are the lowest and salt addition is totally
made redundant thus rendering it more eco friendly. Dyestuffs with relatively lower
affinity and high reactivity make them most suited for cold pad batch techniques. Because
of the high reactivity, fixation of the component colours is fully ensured and consequently
reproducibility of shades is more assured. Primarily it was being applied to woven fabrics
and with specialized features in the pad box and the guiding systems this is extended to
knit wares also. With the least inputs in terms of capital outlay energy, water, manpower
and Right First Time (RFT) capabilities, this method is the most cost effective option for
dyeing substrates that are amenable to padding operation.

Cold Silicate Pad Batch: 

This is the most commonly adopted method by most of the Process houses. Since the
Reactive colours are sensitive to alkalie to a lesser or greater extent and the general
approach is to apply the colour at neutral pH.and after the distrubution of the colour on th
substrate, the pH is raised for fixation. In an exhaust-dyeing situation we are able to
provide the required time dimension and Salt to facilitate exhaustion. In a pad situation, th
exhaustion phenomenon is replaced by the positive add on of the colour on the substrate
and the elaborate conditions of exhaustion and fixation are eliminated by padding the
alkalie along with the colour. The colour with the alkalie is mechanically squeezed
between the mangles of a padder and applied evenly on the substrate.  Since the alkalie is
added with the colour the primary precaution is to ensure that the reactive dyestuff does
not hydrolyze. High (with respect to speed) reactive colours generally are not stable and
would loose the colour yield due to hydrolysis with water. Even more stable reactive
colours have their limitations in that the different clolours in the recipe will have relativel
different rates of hydrolysis and thus not likely to give reproductive results. This problem
has been overcome by the development of ingenious alkalie proportionator units that help
in mixing the alkalie and the dye in the required proportions just before feeding into the
pad bath, thus avoiding the propensity to hydrolyze. Due to the high degree of reactivity,
the dye fixes on the substrate during the reaction dwell time that is dictated by the alkalie
(pH.) and the time taken (rate of reaction) by the slowest of the component dyes to fully
react with the substrate at that pH.  Vinyl Sulphones that are relatively slow reactive class
of Colours are generally preferred for this method of dyeing

 The alkalie proportionator is an equipment that facilitates mixing of the colour and the
alkalie in the required quantities and proportions just before the liquor is delivered to the
pad box for application; otherwise they are stored as two different stock solutions. The dy
and alkalie are mixed at a convenient volume ratio (generally 4:1) and correspondingly
they are made up to that extent stronger so that in the final liquor, the dyes and chemicals
are present in the required recipe concentrations The principle is very convincing but the
problems arise in the execution.

Factors Influencing Cold Pad Barch Dyeing

Substrate preparation and pH 

Substrate preparation has to be thorough as there is no scope for diffusion and
migration aspects of Exhaust dyeing and whatever applied through padding
mangle should penetrate uniformly across and along the fabric as the fabric
speeds through the mangle at speed, where the contact time could be just a few
seconds. The preparation process is generally alkaline and particularly after
mercerization the fabric is rendered alkaline requiring effective neutralization. This
is best achieved with mineral acids preferably HCl; however the residual mineral
acid that would damage the cellulose needs to be neutralized again with Soda As
or Bicarbonate rendering  the pH invariably 8.5 or more and therefore again
neutralized with Acetic Acid.

Secondly the neutralization is carried out in the wash compartments of the

Mercerizer washing range and invariably the caustic carry over from the
recuperator which is a wet on wet leaching process shall not be efficient
compounded by uneven expression at the mangle. Unlike add-on mangles like dy
pad the washing unit mangles invariably are less maintained resulting in variation
in alkalie across the width and length of the fabric causing different levels of left
over caustic reaching the neutralization zone. With limited contact time in a
speeding fabric movement in the washing range the neutralization invariably
remains incomplete in core areas and even in the surface areas where the caustic
carried over is not uniform as pointed out earlier.

Such a fabric .shall measure different pH levels across the width and length of the
fabric causing hydrolysis/spontaneous fixation however small selectively on the
surface of the fabric resulting in delta E variations exceeding 0.5 in the pad
batch/continuous dyeing systems causing selvedge centre variations, shade
variation across the width and length apparently insignificant but when cut and
stitched juxtaposition would show marked deviation in shade.  This problem is be
addressed by the following procedure. It is imperative that the caustic
leached/extracted out at the recuperator of the Mercerizer should be most efficien
and the residual caustic carried over is minimal. A mineral acid passage followed
by neutralization of the mineral acid with Soda Ash and again a passage through
Acetic Acid to remove residual Soda Ash alkalinity does not guarantee uniform
and or core neutralization.  

Doing away with Mineral acid and employment of specialty chemicals -Organic
acids based Poly Carboxylates, substituted poly Carboxylic acids, hydroxy
Carboxylic acids (Gluconates, Citrates) and Sugar-Acrylic acid copolymers are in
practice. The hydroxy Carboxylic Acids and Sugar-Acrylic acid copolymers have
the additional advantage of ready biodegradability. Such Specialty chemicals like
Invatex AC of  Ciba or Sirrix 2UDI of Clariant or  Neutracid Organic (organic
+Inorganic buffers) of CHT, - through a dozing system  governed by a pH control
counter current closed circuit neutralization zone that give a steady uniform pH
that is faintly acidic (pH 6 to6.5) at the end of the range. With a higher
constant (Ka) than that of Acetic Acid the organic protonizer ionizes more and
faster and therefore neutralizes more efficiently and faster; at the same time it
does not tender or damage cellulose Secondly the residual organic acid/ salt form
a buffer in the subsequent dyeing operations giving a stable and uniform pH to
start with. Fabric can be controlled to a uniform pH of 6 to 6.5 (by extraction
method) confirming that the core portion is also neutralized. Such processed fabri
when dyed by Pad- Batch technique invariably gives delta E variations less than
0.5 when checked any where on the fabric. The neutralization system can be
retrofitted in a Mercierizer washing range with very minimal modifications to
include dozing /control.

Residual peroxide after peroxide bleach needs to be removed by peroxide ‘killers

preferably by specialty chemicals of enzymatic sources

    Making up of  Colour and Chemicals

The colours have to be dissolved and made up with cold water (in tropical
countries with ice cooled water) . as per the directions of the manufacturer to
obtain a temperature of the liquor below 20 deg C. The required amount of Urea i
to be added for breaking of the hydrogen bonding and disaggregation of the colou
for easy dissolution. Filtering and cooling with ice are recommended while making
up to volume. The made up colour should be tested for complete dissolution by
drop test on the filter paper.  The Silicate should be from reliable sources without
contamination of heavy metals and Na2O : SiO2 ratio of 1 : 2 .1.The chemical
should be suitably diluted to obtain a 40˚ Tw solution and the recommended
quantity of Caustic Soda for the different depths of shades should be added and
filtered through a strainer. This would form the stock solution.  

    Alkalie Proportionator 

The proportionator’s capability to pump the required quantity linearly and not at
intervals has a direct influence on the uniformity of the shade. Some of the simple
designs operate on the level control principle and therefore the liquor flow would
be as per the signals from the level controller. The limits for this operation cannot
be set very precisely such that there is no perceptible delay in the intermittent flow
of the liquor. Therefore there is bound to be certain disruption in the continuity of
the liquor flow. Where the substantiality of the dyestuff is higher, there will be
preferential absorption of the relevant colour from the bath resulting in that much
depletion in concentration of that colour. In ternary matchings where contribution
of all the colors is important for the shade like in a Grey or Khaki, variation in
shade cannot be ruled out.

Where the pad box volume is high this problem would be more pronounced.
Colours with moderate substantivity and high reactivity in terms of fixation and
higher stability to hydrolysis (in time dimension) would be more ideal.for cold
silicate pad batch method of dyeing.  In the context of exact colour matching, the
reproducibility is difficult unless care is taken to eliminate the variables. Modern
Pad batch systems provide the answers to the problems with Proportioning units
that synchronize with the speed of the machine and the liquor off take - to
continuously mix dye and alkalie in the required proportion just before feeding the
pad box in a linear fashion.   

    Fabric guiding System 

The fabric guiding system should be able to feed the fabric in a fully open form without
selvedge curls, creases or distortion. In the case of warp knit ware the guiders should have
the capability to uncurl the selvedges. At the batching stage there should be expander
system to ensure the batch is wound without creases.  

    Pad box  

The pad box volume needs to be as low as possible. A narrow ‘U’ tube like pad
box with a dummy / spacer in the center would help achieve sufficient long dwell
time and also reduce the pad box volume.  While this arrangement helps
immediate application (consumption) of the alkalie mixed colour on the substrate,
it may not as much help in the penetration of the colour in to fabric substrate
particularly heavy fabrics. Therefore it would be helpful to have built in lay on
rollers in the pad box to facilitate penetration by additional squeeze passages.
Where sensitive /thin/delicate fabrics are involved the lay on rollers may be by-
passed or can be replaced by dummies to reduce the liquor volume. .

The dwell time once established for a given pad box features, the same speed
should be maintained for the relevant fabric sort. Therefore it would be prudent to
establish two or three speed categories for different sort groups and maintain
these conditions every time. As the speed also would influence the liquor pick up
and the preferential pick up of the dye, it plays an important part in the shade
reproduction. This aspect also emphasizes the importance of the fabric
preparation that needs to be absolutely perfect with respect to absorbency,
evenness of the whiteness and dryness as discussed under fabric preparation.

It is also necessary to maintain the padding liquor tmperature at below 20 deg. C

for which jacketed pad box with cold  (ice cold water in the tropical
where the temperatues can go vdry high) to avoid  destabilisation of the bath by
hydrolyzation of component colours to different degrees depending on their
Reactivity and consequent tailing with variation in saturation and hue, particularly
for colours with lower stability at higher temperatures..

    Loading of the Mangles 

The success of a pad batch system is in the capability of the pad box to uniformly apply th
colour on the fabric substrate. Different loading systems with ingenious designs to avoid
deflection of the padding mangles under load have been discussed at length in earlier issu
under padding. The choice of such systems will depend on fabric types in terms of their
construction, weight and width. Where there are frequent changes in the fabric
characteristics, care need to be exercised to provide for suitable facilities to accommodate
changes. Continuous running of narrow width fabric followed by a run on wide width
fabric could cause problem of center selvedge variation even with the modern mangles.
Alternate running of both wide and narrow width fabrics in frequent intervals would
reduce this problem. Also periodical buffing of the bowls would be advantageous.

    Thick Selvedge  

Fabrics with selvedges thicker than the body have always posed problems during
winding into a big batch after padding.  The batch tends to develop a ridge at the
selvedges as it builds up and beyond certain size it becomes unmanageable
where the fabric starts rolling over at the selvedge giving crimps or short creases
oblique to the selvedge. In a stenter batching operation this problem is over come
by selvedge shifting device and this may not be successful in a pad operation.
When such observations are made the best solution would be to limit the batch to
that size where the problem is not there. Some of the process houses resort to
insertion of flat paper at intervals at both the selvedges as the batch builds up and
even out the ridge. This works to a point. The best and permanent solution to this
problem is to ensure that the selvedge construction is taken care of at the weavin
stage

    Laboratory - Bulk Reproducibility 

The padding mangle expression plays an important role as the colour picked up is
directly related to the expression. The absorbency of the substrate besides the
additional features like lay on rollers would also influence the pick up as already
discussed. Therefore, standardization of these parameters to meet certain norms
should be established, monitored and controlled every time.  

While matching the shade in Laboratory, the bulk application parameters should
be borne in mind and the parameters for the lab Pad should be modified suitably
such that the shade produced in the lab pad is reproducible in the bulk. As the
dyestuff is already mixed with alkalie, the mobility of the dyestuff to migrate would
be limited and the fixation phenomenon would restrict such mobility, unlike in an
exhaust-dyeing situation. 

The pressure applied on the padding mangle, the dwell time (function of the spee
of the machine and the length of fabric immersed in the pad liquor - i.e. starting
from entry in to the liquor level in the pad box to the nip) should be manipulated
and established to obtain the shade that would reproduce in bulk with the same
recipe. This can be established carrying out a few trials. This exercise would be
easier where the configuration of Bulk and Laboratory pad boxes are similar.

Where the lab pad box does not provide the features available in the bulk, say as
in the case of an ordinary pad box without lay on rollers and the bulk padder
having advanced features, even under identical expressions, the laboratory
matching would tend to give higher colour yield than the bulk for the same recipe.
The bulk would require increase in recipe concentrations, particularly in heavier
fabrics. In other words the estimates of cost based on Lab recipe would be
adverse. 

In this instance, the explanation for this phenomenon is that the colour picked up
does not penetrate in to the fabric substrate as much as it does in the bulk model
due to better facilities and hence in the lab match ring dyeing type of application
results giving an apparent colour yield on the surface. In bulk, relatively more inne
substrate cross section also gets dyed and therefore requires that much extra
colour for obtaining the same shade. If the laboratory could simulate the same
level of ‘efficiency’ of the dye penetration as in bulk the laboratory recipe would be
reproducible every time. 

Process houses tend to believe that when expressions of the bulk and laboratory
pad boxes are made identical there is nothing further that can be done. They
accept this as unavoidable and provide a factor for conversion to bulk, which does
not work every time as different dyestuffs would penetrate to different extents and
a single conversion factor would not be valid. It would therefore be necessary to
match any shade in Laboratory to the same efficiency of penetration/diffusion
across the cross section of the substrate in order to get reproducible results as fo
as the padding mangle operation is concerned. In a real situation quite a number
of trials had to be taken to simulate bulk-dyeing results at the stage of laboratory
matching. Once such conditions and parameters are set, the Laboratory pad
would behave in the same fashion as the bulk and therefore each of the dyestuffs
would tend to behave similarly at the laboratory and bulk padding
stages.Establishing laboratory padding conditions and parameters that would
correspond to bulk would solve most of the problems related to Laboratory to bulk
reproducibility.

The padded fabric may be checked for shade by drawing a sample and exposing
the same over a water bath in a micro oven that facilitates an accelerated fixation

    Batch Rotation / Reaction time

The dwell time for reaction (fixation) to complete would vary with the alkalie
concentration and the class of reactive colours used. There are shock develop
(short time of 4 to 6 Hours) and the long cycle times of 12 to 18hours systems
-whichever the process, the dwell time period should not be compromised.
should be taken to ensure the batch is protected from water drops or acid fumes
during the period of fixation. Polythene covers that tightly enclose the batch would
serve the purpose. It is also necessary to rotate the batch during the period of
fixation, lest the alkaline liquor should collect at the lower portions of the batch du
to gravity that could result in intermittent variation in shade along the length of the
fabric Though these are elementary precautions, the operators tend to ignore,
particularly when there is a breakdown of the rotating motor. It would be prudent t
have alternate banks for rotating the batches to take care of such breakdowns.

    Washing off and Soaping

Soaping is an important operation where the washing and soaping sequence has to be
followed meticulously to ensure complete removal of the silicate and the hydrolyzed
colour. Silicate on fabric needs to be washed off in the first two compartments with warm
over flowing water and then followed by soaping at near boil (need to establish
temperature charts for different dyestuff combinations) with good anionic soaping agents
with small additions of polyphosphate in the wash baths.

While soaping, where Vinyl Sulphone based dyestuffs are involved, it is necessary to hav
luke warm / preferably cold water over flow in the initial soaping baths to remove unfixed
colour followed by acidification to bring the pH to 5- 6 or neutral before raising the
temperature to boil to avoid the possible dye fibre bond cleavage, whereas this precaution
is not required in the case of Chloro Triazine based dyes.

Once the silicate is eased out soaping operation is rendered more efficient. Compartment
nos. 3, 4 and 5 are with soaping chemicals. Compartment 6- washing off; 7 and 8
wash/rinse at lower temperatures Nos.3 to 6.can be counter current An eight-compartmen
soaper with an average of 20 meters capacity in each compartment should serve the
purpose for a good soaping for fabric weights up to 200 grms of plain weave at a speed of
50 meters/min. The soaping compartments need to be totally enclosed to maintain
temperature parameters.  The guide rollers should be absolutely true and smooth on their
ball bearings with tension adjustments to ensure crease free passage of  the fabric through
the soaping range.

 As the fabric weight increases either the speed need to be reduced or number of
compartments should increase. Wash boxes with advanced designs provide accessories to
facilitate good agitation and therefore are efficdient over a range of speeds.
levels of over flow in the soaping zone (compartments Nos. 3 to 5) may be necessary
particularly for heavy shades. The last two compartments need to be lukewarm or cold.

For heavier weight fabrics neutralization of core alkalie to satisfy the extraction method,
addition of specialty chemicals like Invatex AC by itself or mixed with Acetic Acid (to
save costs) may be helpful instead of only Acetic Acid in the seventh compartment with a
dozing system like what is mentioned under neutralization in the Mercerizer.
Compartments 7 and 8 can be counter current.  

It is pertinent to caution that Bi-carbonate hardness in water is generally neglected. The

water may apparently show neutral pH in cold but the fabric rinsed with this water in the
last compartment will show alkalinity after drying. Where the water is bought from
different sources and if this aspect is not taken into consideration one can get different
results despite other stringent controls. Check for Bicarbonate hardness and include
removal of bicarbonate hardness sequence in the process water treatment. Otherwise
provision to neutralize bicarbonate if any is to be built in the dozing and control system in
the neutralization compartment

    Cleaning of Pad Box /Soaper  

Cleaning of the Pad box, feed lines stock tanks and the pump is an important function afte
every shade change. Likewise the cloth guiders and both the fixed and rotating tension ba
are to be meticulously cleaned. It is a general principle to plan discretely.the sequence of
change of shades from light to dark or from dark to light depending on the day’s
programme for dyeing   Sensitive shades like yellows and blues and pastel shades that
show up contamination of colour glaringly need to be handled separately after thorough
cleaning.Similarly at the washing off and soaping stages also the precautions need to be
taken to empty and clean the different compartment bath after shade runs that could cause
contamination in the next shade.Washing of the Padding mangle and unloading and
lifting /separating the bowls after the run before stopping for the day is mandatory as the
silicate is difficult to wash off once dried up and the Mangle will be rendered unfit for
carrying out padding of colour.  

Cold Silicate Pad Batch Quality Control Check List

    Fabric ready for Dyeing

Parameters Method of Frequency Norms/Limits

 Checking
White/Yellownes AATCC    Left    Cen     Right 
Index   Test      
Method110 --- 80 (not < 75) --
Whiteness Yellownes of 1979   Every        0.07 to 0.08
s lot Every
lot
Absorbency Spot test Every lot < 2 Secs.
pH. Indicator Every  lot Left   Cen    Right   
----------  6 –6.5
-----------     
Drying Feel at Every lot Dry / room
different temperature
places
Defects Check lot Every lot  No compromise
card
remarks
    Dye Make up

Method of Norms/Limits
Parameters Frequency
Checking
Against Every  
Recipe
Lab/Std. Recipe
Make up Before  
tank Visual every
cleaning make up
Sequence  No tolerance
Against std.
of colour
sequence  
/chemical
displayed
addition
Every  No tolerance
 Silicate time
 ˚ Tw.
strength silcate is
made up.
Every  No tolerance
Addition of
As per table* shade
Caustic
group.
Make up of Metering  No
colour to device or by   tolerance 
volume dip rod
Dissolution Spot test on Every Clear circular
 spreading;
filter paper make up No
sediments.
 
*Caustic Soda addition to ˚40 Tw Silicate in the following table .
Concentration Caustic (38˚
  Be /72˚ Tw /
32.5% w/w or
450g p l)
Light  <30gpl 6.5   g p l
Medium 30 to 50 g p l 11.5 g p l
Dark 50 to 60 g p l 16.5 g p l
Very dark >70 g p l 21.5 g p l
 
The Process house can decide on the alkalie additions based on their Silicate quality and
working results.
 
    Dye Pad  
Parameters Method of Frequency Norms/Limit Action
Checking s
Cleanlines Visual Start of    
s /Manual every shade
Feeding Visual / Start of    
line Manual every
padding
Pad box Visual At the start    
liquor level of every
padding
Mangle Read on dial Start of As per  
Pressure Padding settingL   
M    R
Speed Speedometer As per table    
Even batch Look
without for
Continuousl creases/ other ridges
Batching Visual
y defects* and
take
action
The cloth Should be      
guiders fully
functional
 
  *If fluff or thread attaches to the bowl repeat spots may occur, the bowl should be
    cleared of the contamination 
 

    Fixation / Batch Rotation 

Parameters Method of Checking

Dwell Time Tag the batch Indicate time of start
and end
Covering of the Polythene cover fully enclosed
Batch and secured
Precautions Keep away from steam, water
spray or acid fumes
Rotation Ensure uninterrupted rotation
 Washing and Soaping 
Compartmen 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
t
Temperature Display norm temp for each compartment.
Check and record – every 15 min. The dial
thermometers should be functional.
Additions of Display starting, feeding quantities and
soaping frequency of addition for each bath, Monitor
chemicals additions. Alternatively dozing can be
arranged.
 The efficiency of soaping may be checked - take a window sample at the delivery end nip
and sandwich between bleached poplin (without optical brightener); contact dry on a hot
steam cylinder and check any staining of the white. There should be no staining.