A COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF KNITTING PARAMETERS

(YARN COUNT, STITCH LENGTH, MACHINE GAUGE) ON

GREY GSM(Gram Per Square Meter ) OF WEFT
KNITTED(PLAIN SINGLE JERSEY, RIB AND INTERLOCK)
FABRIC.
1. Md. Nazmul Hosen
ID wub/08/12/14/387
2. Awlad Hossain
ID wub/08/12/14/397
3. Md. Zakaria Islam
ID wub/08/12/14/290
4. Md. Emran Hossain
ID wub/08/12/14/388

Department of Textile Engineering.

 World University of Bangladesh.

A COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF KNITTING PARAMETERS (YARN

COUNT, STITCH LENGTH, MACHINE GAUGE) ON GREY GSM OF
WEFT KNITTED ( PLAIN SINGLE JERSEY, RIB AND INTERLOCK)
FABRIC.

A Thesis

Submitted to the Department of Textile Engineering

Of
World University of Bangladesh

In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements

For the Degree of

Bachelor of Science in Textile Engineering.

 DECLARATION

We, Md. Nazmul Hosen, Md. Emran Hossain, Md. Zakaria Islam and Awlad
Hossain students of Textile Engineering EngineeringDepartment, World
University of Bangladesh represent our thesis work on “A COMPARATIVE
ANALYSIS OF KNITTING PARAMETERS (YARN COUNT, STITCH LENGTH, MACHINE
GAUGE) ON GREY GSM OF WEFT KNITTED (PLAIN SINGLE JERSEY, RIB AND
INTERLOCK) FABRIC.” as the requirement of completion of bachelor degree.
This thesis research was performed under supervision of Engr. Mohmd.
Zakaria Islam, Fellow , Department of Textile Engineering, World University of
Bangladesh.

This is to declare that the thesiswork was done by us has not been submitted
before. Help that was taken from our honorable supervisor, internet and books
was mentioned at references.

Signature of Supervisor Signature of Students

………………………………………..
1. Md. Nazmul Hosen
………………………………………………
Engr. Mohmd. Zakaria Islam …………………………………………
Fellow, DTE 2. Md. Zakaria Islam
World University of Bangladesh ………………………………………..
3. Md. Emran Hossain

………………………………………..

4. Awlad Hossain
 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

We are grateful to our Almighty Allah for blessing us with the patience,
knowledge and the opportunity to learn something new.

We are heartily thankful to our thesis supervisor Engr. Mohmd. Zakaria

Islam for his belief on us and pushing us to do better.We all are
thankful to our supervisor for his encouragement, guidance and
support from the initial to the final level to enable us to develop our
understanding and complete our thesis. He inspired usand gave
solutions to problems that we could not solve by ourselves.

We are eagerly thankful to all ourteachers, especially to Dr. Shah

Alimuzzaman Belal, Honorable Advisor and Md. Solaiman,honorable
Head(Acting), Textile Engineering Department, World University of
Bangladesh for giving us suggestions and advices.

We would also like to thank “Fakir Knitwear Ltd ” for helping us by

providing resources required test Specimensthat we needed. And last
but not in the least we also thank our all faculty members & the
authority, WUB for supporting us in times of need.
 Abstract

Single jersey cotton weft knitted fabrics tend to undergo a certain

dimensional changes due to different yarn parameters and knitting
parameters. The investigation was carried out to compare the effect of
different yarn counts, stitch lengths, machine gauge, yarn tension,
fabric structure on the GSM(at same temp. & humidity) of knitted
fabric. In this study the experimental results show that when yarn count
is fixed, the increment of stitch length results decrement of GSM. On
the contrary, when stitch length is fixed, the increment of yarn count
results decrement of GSM. Some exceptions were also experienced.

To produce a knitted garment of given dimensions, the gauge should

match as closely as possible; significant differences in gauge will lead to
a deformed garment. Patterns for knitting projects almost always
include a suggested gauge for the project. Our thesis will present the
relationship among the knitting factors that affect the grey GSM of weft
knitted fabrics.

Keywords: GSM, Single Jersey, 100% Cotton Knitted Fabrics, Yarn Count, Stitch
length, machine gauge, yarn tension, fabric structure, VDQ( Variable Dia.
for Quality) pulley.
Introduction

Knitting is the process of forming fabric by inter looping yarn in a series of

intermeshed loops using needles. Knitted fabrics are preferred in many types of
clothing because of its extensibility, light weight, warmth, wrinkle resistance and
ease of care .The term knitting describes the technique of constructing textile
structures by forming a continuous length of yarn into columns of vertically
intermeshed loops . Knitted structures are progressively built-up from row after
row of intermeshed loops. The properties of a knitted structure are largely
determined by the interdependence of each stitch to its neighbors on either side
and above and below it . As knit fabrics are produced on different machines with
various conditions to produce different types of fabric, they bear different
qualities .

The knit structure is mostly used to make knitted garments. But there are some
products which are not originally textiles but textile related, are also made using
knitting basic rules. The most of the people of the whole world wear knit
garments because of feeling more comfort as compared to woven fabrics. A lot of
processing techniques are applied to produce complete garment. But because of
some faults like raw material fault, processing fault, mechanical fault, neglect of
operator etc. in making garments, the products & product quality are greatly
hampered. In this thesis, we shall try to represent a clear conception about a few
terms of garments-GSM of fabrics (How to increase the GSM of fabrics, how to
decrease the GSM of fabrics, In which way this is affected by knitting parameters
& how this may be controlled).
Objectives
 A comparative analysis of factors are related to knitting.
 Identification of significant effects of same yarn count on grey fabric GSM.
 Measuring what happens with fabric GSM when varying the tension of yarn
as well as the usages of colorable dyed yarn.
 Effects of different fabric structures (plain, rib, interlock) onto the GSM of
cotton knitted fabric.
 How similar machine gauge could alter the particular grey knit fabric GSM.

Literature review
Manufacturing of knitted fabrics involves intermeshing of yarn loops where one
loop is drawn through another loop to form a stitch . Since the last few years
knitted fabrics are used in manufacturing of fashion garments and even it has the
potential in the formal wear segments also.Many developments have taken place
in the machinery for processing of knitted fabrics in both tubular process and
open width forms. Specification methods of knitted fabrics, usually, include loop
density, width of the fabric, weight per square meter and the loop length (Bourah,
2004). Flexibility exists at the various stages of wet processing in terms of process
machinery and methods followed by calendaring or compacting which is often,
the final operation prior to the packaging step. Yarns of different counts knitted
to the same loop length display different physical properties such as drape,
openness, permeability, handle and spirality etc.

Areal density is the measure of mass per unit area of the fabric. Usually knit
fabrics with tuck stitches appear thicker than the fabric having only knit stitches
due to accumulation of yarns at the tucking places .The effect of knit structures on
their areal density has been analyzed by many researchers. Effect of stitch length
on knit fabric structure plays a vital role on its areal density. What kind of changes
on fabric areal density of single jersey knit structures will be regulated by various
stitch length is the measurement of our research.

Knit fabric manufacturers are supposed to produce fabric of certain GSM (Gram
Per Square Meter). But it is really difficult for the manufacturing personnel to
produce such fabric as GSM largely depends on yarn count, stitch length and
machine gauge . Most of the knit fabric manufacturer uses historic data for
predicting those quality parameters, while others uses trial and error method in
order to keep the GSM of the produced fabric close to the required value. There is
no published research work that deals with the above issue.

This study aims at developing linear relationship among those quality parameters.
In doing so multiple regressions analysis is performed. If the value of co-efficient
of determination (R square) obtained by regression analysis is close to +1 or -1,
their will be strong relationship among those . A zero value of co-efficient of
determination indicates no relationships among the variables . In most research
problems where regression analysis is applied, more than one independent
variable is needed in the regression model . The complexity of most scientific
mechanisms is such that in order to be able to predict an important response, a
multiple regression model is needed . When this model is linear in the
coefficients, it is called a multiple linear regression model. Here, in this
experiment we use machine gauge, yarn count and stitch length as independent
variables and gram per square meter (GSM) as dependent variable.

From the above reveals as the literatures cited, it is evident that the
effect of shrinkage, spirality, GSM etc. of knit fabric properties are
sometimes fateful, and thus needs to be controlled. But the construction and
processing parameters of the knit fabric are exclusively related with the
properties. Within the parameters, yarn count and stitch length are the vital
most, on which the till-dated works could not focus clearly.
Materials and Methods

Materials

1. Yarn Selection

As the experiment has done only for identifying the consequences of the change
in circular knitting machine gauge, stitch length, yarn count so all the others
parameters were kept constant. For this experiment 30 Ne, 32 Ne, 36 Ne, 40 Ne
100% cotton grey yarn has been selected.

2. Knitting Machine

Knitting Machines (JEUNI & U-MASA, Taiwan) with same diameter of cylinder but
different gauges have been chosen. Four single jersey circular knitting machines
of each 30 inches diameter having 18gauge, 22 gauge, 24 gauge and 28 gauge
have used for knitting single jersey fabric.

3. Test fabric specimen

In this thesis work, various types of knit fabrics such as plain single jersey, rib and
Interlock are of different stitch length and gsm are used. In this study differently
constructed cotton knit samples were tested.

Methods

Fabric production
The fabrics knitted are of single jersey type. Each yarn was used to knit a length of
knitted fabric with a knitting machine having following specification.

Brand Name of Machine : JIUNN LONG.

Origin of machine : TAIWAN
Model no : JLS
MACHINE NO : 041012
Diameter of Machine : 23
Number of Feeder : 69
Number of Needle : 1740T
Machine Gauge : 24G
Machine Speed : 26 rpm
This parameter was employed for knitting 24s&26s yarn using
positive feed device. Single jersey: Cam arrangement

Needle Set out:

K KKK 1
K KKK 2
K KKK 3
K KKK 4

Figure -1: Knit fabric production in circular knitting machine

Machine Parts:

1. Yarn feeder guide, 2. Latch needle, 3. Holding-down sinker, 4.Needle cylinder,

5.Cylinder driving wheel. 6. Cylinder driving gear, 7. Sinker-operating cams,
8.Sinker cam-cap, 9.Sinker trick ring, 10.Needle-retaining spring, 11.Needle-
operating cams, 12.Cam-box, 13.Cam-plate, 14.Head plate, 15. Cylinder driving
pinion attached to the main drive shaft.

Stitch length measurement

The yarn delivery rate required to knit a given stitch quality on a

multifeedercircular knitting machine is generally based on the belt speed of the
positive yarn feed system. The actual stitch length in the fabric measured after
knitting is always less than the stitch length required. Yam tension immediately
before the yarn is wound on the storage yarn feed wheel is the main cause of this
problem. This paper investigates the tension build-up of the yam on its way from
the yarn, package to the storage yarn feed wheel. Several fabric samples are
knitted with different winding tensions to the storage yam feed wheel, and the
stitch lengths of the samples are measured. The results show that the stitch
length is largely affected by the winding tension to the storage yarn feed wheel.

Yarn Count measurement

Knitted fabric is made with the help of yarn loops. Yarn of different counts is used
to produce fabric of different sizes. There is also a need to calculate optimum
production of knitting machines.As we know needle hook has to take yarn to
convert it into a loop and finally latch has to close the needle hook so that loop is
properly held by the needle hook and ultimately this helps in passing new loop
through the previously held loop. It is clear from this explanation that there
should be a proper balance between needle hook size and the thickness of the
yarn or filament. If the yarn is thicker than needle hook then there will a chance
that needle hook will not able to hold this loop and consequently there will be a
small hole in the fabric. If the situation is reverse, means yarn is thinner than the
size of the needle hook then the fabric produced will look like a net. Both
situations are not wanted. This situation demands a balance between needle
hook size and count of yarn. It is worth to note that needle hook size depends
upon the machine guage.

Machine gauge variation

It is seen that the greater the compactness of the wale of the fabric, the greater
the GSM of the fabric is found. As in the higher gauge the compactness of the
fabric is greater so the GSM rises from the 20 gauge to the 28 gauge machine
gradually.

Results and Discussion

GENERAL DISCUSSION

Plain Structure

Plain is the base structure of ladies‟ hosiery, fully fashioned knitwear and single-
jersey fabrics. Its use in ladies‟ suiting is known as the „Jersey Lily‟ (see in Fig.1).
Other names for plain include stockinet, whilst in the USA the term „shaker stitch‟
is applied to it when knitted in a coarse gauge of about 31– 32 needles Per inch
(25mm).
 Fig. 2: Structure of single jersey knitted fabric

Rib Structure

The simplest rib fabric is 1 X 1 rib. The first rib frame was invented by
JedediahStrutt of Derby in 1755, which used a second set of needles to pick up
and knit the sinker loops of the first set. It is now normally knitted with two sets
of latch needles. 1 X 1 rib is production of by two sets of needles being alternately
set or gated between each other. Relaxed 1 X 1 rib is theoretically twice the
thickness and half the width of an equivalent plain fabric, but it has twice as much
width-wise recoverable stretch. In practice, 1 X 1 rib normally relaxes by
approximately 30 percent compared with its knitting width

Fig. 3: Structure of 1X1 Rib fabric

Interlock Structure

Figure 3 shows that interlock was knitted almost solely in cotton on 20 gauge
(needles per inch) machines .

Fig. 4: Structure of interlock fabric

KNITTING MACHINE PARAMETERS

1. Machine gauge.
2. Machine Diameter.
3. V.D.Q Pulley
4. Needle gauge.

Machine Gauge

No. of needles per inch present in a needle bed of a knitting machine is called
machine gauge for that knitting machine. Selection of machine gauge depends
upon the following: Yarn count, Fibre type, Yarn twist, Yarn finished.
Machine Diameter

Machine diameter is mainly diameter of m/c cylinder. It is important for fabric

width. Only diameter does not determine the fabric width. It also needs machine
gauge and wales space which is depends upon yarn count and loop length.

V.D.Q (variable dia. for quality) Pulley

V.D.Q pulley is a pulley which drives several smaller pulleys by a tooted belt.
These smaller pulleys are at the driven position and drive a clutch device which
engageswith the yarn wheel. By varying the dia of the V.D.Q pulley, which is at the
driver position, the amount of the yarn feeding can be controlled. This variation in
the yarn feeding varies the stitch length and the G.S.M.

Fig. 4: V.D.Q pulley.

Needle Gauge

Thickness of needle express by the needle gauge. It is important for

selection of machine gauge. Needle gauge isdiffering for the different
needle types and different Brand.

3. Comparative Changes in GSM with different machine gauge on a

circular knitting machine.

In knitting, the word gauge is used both in hand knitting and machine knitting; the
latter, technical abbreviation GG, refers to "Knitting Machines" fineness size. In
both cases, the term refers to the number of stitches per inch, not the size of the
finished garment. In both cases, the gauge is measured by counting the number
of stitches (in hand knitting) or the number of needles (on a knitting machine bed)
over several inches then dividing by the number of inches in the width of the
sample.

The gauge of a knitted fabric depends on the pattern of stitches in the fabric, the
kind of yarn, the size of knitting needles, and the tension of the individual knitter
(i.e., how much yarn he or she allows between stitches).Sometimes the gauge is
deliberately altered within a garment, usually by changing needle size; for
example, smaller stitches are often made at the collar, sleeve cuffs, hemline
ribbing or pocket edges.

To produce a knitted garment of given dimensions, whether from one's own

design or from a published pattern, the gauge should match as closely as possible;
significant differences in gauge will lead to a deformed garment. Patterns for
knitting projects almost always include a suggested gauge for the project.
For illustration, suppose that a sweater is designed to measure 40" around the
bustline with a gauge of 5 st/inch in the chosen stitch. Therefore, the pattern
should call for 200 stitches (5 st/inch x 40") at the bustline. If the knitter follows
the pattern with a gauge of 4 st/inch, the sweater will measure 50" around the
bustline (200 st / 4st/in) -- too baggy! Conversely, if the knitter follows the pattern
with a gauge of 6 st/inch, the sweater will measure ~33" around the bustline (200
st / 6st/inch) -- too tight! Generally, the gauge should match to better than 5%,
corresponding to 1" of ease in a 20" width. Similar concerns apply to the number
of rows per inch.

Luckily, the gauge can be adjusted by changing needle size, without changing the
pattern, stitch, yarn, or habits of the knitter. Larger needles produce a smaller
gauge (fewer stitches per inch) and smaller needles produce a larger gauge (more
stitches per inch). If necessary, further adjustments can be made by subtly
altering the pattern dimensions, e.g., shortening a vertically aligned pattern.
Ribbing can also be used to "draw in" the fabric to the proper gauge.

Measuring knitting gauge

To check one's gauge before starting a project, a sample of knitting (a swatch) is
made, ideally in the stitch pattern used in the garment. The swatch edges affect
the reading of the gauge, so it's best that the swatch be at least 4" square and
more safely 6–8" square. Dividing the number of stitches used by the actual size
of the sample gives the stitch gauge of that sample. Similarly, the row gauge is
calculated by dividing the number of rows knitted by the length of the sample.
Making a swatch also helps familiarize the knitter with the stitch pattern and
yarn, which will lead to a more uniform gauge in the final garment.
 Figure: Effect of fabric GSM on variation of machine gauge.

Comments:

From the following above figure , it is seen that the greater the compactness of
the wale of the fabric, the greater the GSM of the fabric is found. As in the higher
gauge the compactness of the fabric is greater so the GSM rises from the 20
gauge to the 28 gauge machine gradually.

Circular bed: For single jersey Ne =(Gauge2) / 20

For rib Ne = (Gauge2) / 6
For interlock Ne = (Gauge2) / 9.6

Flatbed: For single bed Ne = (Gauge2) / 15

For rib double bed Ne = (Gauge2) / 12.5
Table 1: Typical Selection of M/C Gauge (circular knitting m/c, ) for Different
Count Yarn:

M/C gauge COUNT(Ne)

Low High Limit
32 32/1 46/1 60/1
28 30/1 46/1 60/1
24 20/1 46/1 50/1
22 20/1 40/1
20 20/1 40/1
18 20/1 40/1
16 10/1 24/1

M/c Gauge(circular knitting m/c, ) on various single count (Ne)

50
40
30
Count

46 46 46
20 40 40 40
30 32
10 24 20 20 20 20
10
0
16 18 20 22 24 28 32
Gauge Gauge Gauge Gauge Gauge Gauge Gauge
Gauge variation

Low Count(Ne) High Count(Ne)

Comments:

Here, we discuss about yarn count selection (low & high) on various machine
gauge on a circular knitting machine. From the above table and figure, it is seen
that on a 16 gauge, we can utilize 10/1 as lower and 24/1 as higher count. But
when we choose 18 gauge machine, we can 20/1 as low & 40/1 as high and so on.

Table 2: Relation between machine gauge and yarn count (Single jersey):

Single Jersey

M/C Gauge Count(Ne) M/C Gauge Count(Ne)

18 30 24 30
20 26 24 30
22 20 24 40
24 30 24 28
24 34 24 28
24 28 24 30
24 30 24 34
24 30 24 34
24 30 24 26
24 30 28 40
24 34 28 50

Comments:

Here, we discuss about yarn count selection (low & high) on various machine
gauge on a circular knitting machine. From the above table , it is seen that the
selection of m/c gauge are related with yarn count for single jersey cotton knitted
fabrics.
Table 3: Relation between machine gauge and yarn count (1X1 Rib & Interlock)

1x1 Rib Interlock

M/C gauge Count(Ne) M/C gauge Count(Ne)

18 30 24 46
16 28 24 46
16 30 24 40
18 26 24 40
18 24 24 34
18 28 24 36
16 30 24 36

Yarn Count Variation On Equal M/c Gauge with Different Fabrics:

45

40
40 40 40
35
36 36
34
30 32 32
Count Variation

30 30
25
26 single jersey
20
20 1x1 Rib
15 Interlock
10

0
18 Gauge 20 Gauge 22 Gauge 24 Gauge
Machine Gauge
Comments: In the above figure & table shows the result of yarn count variation of
three fabric samples ( single jersey, 1x1 Rib & Interlock ) with different m/c gauge
where yarn count varies from 0 to 40 single count at m/c gauge of 18G to 24G.

The experiment is carried out at FAKIR KNITWEAR Group. Following steps were
followed in order to reach the goal of the experiment:

1) The experiment is carried out on three different types of machines. Single

jersey circular knitting machine, double jersey rib circular knitting machine
and double jersey interlock circular knitting machine of different machine
gauges are used for producing plain single jersey, 1x1 rib double jersey and
plain interlock fabric respectively.

2) Among the four primary base structures of weft knitted fabric, three
structures are being studied here in this experiment namely-Plain single
jersey, 1x1 rib double jersey and Plain interlock double jersey
fabric(figure1).

3) The grey GSMof those fabrics for different machine gauges (needle/inch),
yarn counts (Ne) and stitch lengths (mm) are observed and being putted on
the table I, table II and table IIIrespectively.

4) Scatter diagrams are generated with the help of MS Excel for each of the
three structures to identify linear relationship of each of the three quality
parameters with GSM.
5) In order to generate linear equation and the strength of their relationship,
multiple regression analysis on MS Excel was carried out using those data
achieved for each of the fabric structures separately.

The scatter diagram generated from the data of table I, table II and table IIIclearly
shows that there is a significantlinear relationship of machine gauge, yarn count
and stitch length on GSM for each of the three structures. The summary output of
multiple linear regression analysis generated through Microsoft Excel for three
different fabric structuresare displayed in the below figures.

Table I: Experiment data for Plain Single jersey fabric.

GSM M/C GAUGE YARN COUNT STITCH LENGTH

226 18 18 2.96
219 18 19 2.89
212 18 20 2.84
226 20 18 2.96
212 20 20 2.84
199 20 22 2.76
205 22 21 2.79
192 22 23 2.73
178 22 25 2.71
192 24 23 2.73
157 24 28 2.73
142 24 32 2.66

Comment:

The above table shows the analytical data of variation in Gsm with different m/c
gauge, yarn count, and stitch length. The table is obtained from the experiment of
100% cotton knitted single jersey fabric on a circular knitting machine.
Table II: Experiment data for fine 1x1 Rib fabric.

GSM M/C GAUGE YARN COUNT STITCH LENGTH

270 18 21 2.90
262 18 22 2.85
254 18 23 2.81
246 20 24 2.78
230 20 26 2.74
214 20 28 2.74
214 22 28 2.74
198 22 30 2.76
182 22 32 2.81
174 24 33 2.85
158 24 35 2.96
151 24 38 2.85

Comment: The above table shows the analytical data of variation in Gsm with
different m/c gauge, yarn count, and stitch length. The table is obtained from the
experiment of 100% cotton knitted 1x1 rib fabric on a circular rib knitting
machine.

Table III: Experiment data for Plain Interlock fabric.

GSM M/C GAUGE YARN COUNT STITCH LENGTH

295 18 21 3.25
290 18 22 3.10
280 18 23 3.00
273 20 24 2.95
264 20 26 2.95
254 20 28 2.85
254 22 28 2.85
245 22 30 2.66
235 22 32 2.64
230 24 33 2.45
221 24 35 2.45
206 24 38 2.45
Comment:

The above shows the analytical data of variation in Gsm with different m/c gauge,
yarn count, and stitch length. The table is obtained from the experiment of 100%
cotton knitted interlock fabric on a circular interlock knitting machine.

GSM, Count variation on 18 M/C Gauge in S/J, 1x1 Rib, & Interlock Fabric

295
300 270

250 226

200
Numeric

150

100

50 18 18 18 21 18 21
3.04 3.04 3.04
0
plain S/J 1x1 Rib plain Interlock
Fabric types
GSM M/C Gauge Yarn Count Stitch Length

Comment:

Here, we compare about Grey GSM and Yarn Count of plain single jersey, 1x1 rib
And interlock fabrics while the stitch length and machine gauge are remained
fixed or constant. We can see from the graph that at 18 m/c gauge and 3.04 stitch
length, the GSM and Yarn Count will vary gradually .
GSM, Count variation on 20 M/C Gauge in S/J, 1x1 Rib, & Interlock Fabric

300 273
246
250 226

200
Numeric

150

100

50 20 18 20 24 20 24
2.92 2.92 2.92
0
S/J 1x1 Rib Interlock
Types of fabric

GSM M/C Gauge Yarn Count S.L

Comment:

Here, we compare about Grey GSM and Yarn Count of plain single jersey, 1x1 rib
And interlock fabrics while the stitch length and machine gauge are remained
fixed or constant. We can see from the graph that at 20 m/c gauge and 2.92 stitch
length, the GSM and Yarn Count will vary gradually .
GSM, Count variation on 22 M/C Gauge in S/J, 1x1 Rib, & Interlock Fabric

300 254
250 205 214

200
Numeric

150

100
22 21 22 28 22 28
50
2.79 2.79 2.79
0
Single jersey 1x1 Rib Plain Interlock
Types of fabrics

GSM M/C Gauge Count S.L

Comment:

Here, we compare about Grey GSM and Yarn Count of plain single jersey, 1x1 rib
And interlock fabrics while the stitch length and machine gauge are remained
fixed or constant. We can see from the graph that at 22 m/c gauge and 2.79 stitch
length, the GSM and Yarn Count will vary gradually .
GSM, Count variation on 24 M/C Gauge in S/J, 1x1 Rib, & Interlock Fabric

250 230

192
200 174

150
Numeric

100

50 33 33
24 23 24 24
2.68 2.68 2.68
0
Single Jersey 1x1 Rib Interlock
Types of fabric

GSM M/c Gauge Count S.L

Comment:

Here, we compare about Grey GSM and Yarn Count of plain single jersey, 1x1 rib
And interlock fabrics while the stitch length and machine gauge are remained
fixed or constant. We can see from the graph that at 24 m/c gauge and 2.68 stitch
length, the GSM and Yarn Count will vary gradually .
3. Comparative Changes in GSM with different Yarn Count on a
circular knitting machine.
The quality and price of fabric is greatly depending on yarn count. If the count is
high then the fineness of the yarn will be increased and the weight of the fabric
per square meter decrease so that value of gsm decrease and cost will increase.
Cost of the fabric is proportional with the yarn count and inversely proportional
with GSM.

Yarn count:

The yarn count is a numerical expression which defines its fineness or coarseness.
It also expresses weather the yarn is thick or thin. A definition is given by the
textile institute – “Count is a number which indicates the mass per unit length or
the length per unit mass of yarn.”

Figure: 100% cotton yarn

Types of yarn count:

a) Indirect system- English, Metric, Worsted.

b) Direct system- Tex, Denier, Lbs. /Spindle.

Indirect count:
The count of yarn expresses the number of length units in one weight unit. Thus
higher the count, finer the yarn. The system is generally used for cotton, worsted,
linen (wet spun) etc.

wxL

Indirect count: N= ………………

WXl

Where, W = The weight of the sample.

w = The unit weight of the system.

L = The length of the sample.

l = The unit length of the sample.

Direct count:

The count of yarn expresses the no. of weight units in one length unit. Thus higher
the count, coarser the yarn. The system is generally used for synthetic fiber, jute,
silk etc.

WXl

Direct count: N = …………

wXL

Where,

N = The yarn number or, count.

W = The weight of the sample.

w = The unit weight of the sample.

 L = The length of the sample.

l = The unit length of the sample.

In Details:

English system: It is defined as the number of hanks 840 yds per pound is called
yarn count.

Length (yds) 1 pound

English cotton count, Ne =……………… X …………………

840 yds Weight (Pound)

Metric system, Nm : It is defined as the number of hank (1000m) per kg.

Length (m) 1 kg

Metric count =………………… X …………………….

1000m Weight (kg)

Worsted system: It is defined as the number of hanks (540yds) per pound.

Length (yds) 1 Pound

Worsted count =…………………… X …………………

560 (yds) Weight (Pound)

Tex system or, Lea count: It is defined as the weight in grams of 1000m is called
tex count.

Weight (gm) 1000m

Tex count =……………… X ……………

1 gm Length (m)
Denier: The number or, count in the denier system is the weight in grams of
9000m.

Weight (gm) 9000m

Denier count =……………… X ………….

1 gm Length

Pounds per spindle (Jute system): Count in the pound per spindle system is the
weight in pounds of 14400 yards of yarn.

Weight (Pound) 14400 (yds)

Pound per spindle =………………. X …………….....

1 Pound Length (yds)

The following counts of yarn that are widely used for knitting process are given:

a) Cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1, 40/1 Ne.

b) Terylene cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1 Ne.

c) CVC: 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1 Ne.

d) Melange: 20/1, 22/1, 26/1, 30/1 Ne.

e) Spandex: 40D, 70D.

f) Polyester: 75D, 150D.

g) Sewing thread: 40/2, 150D etc.

SAMPLE PREPARATION:

Same count of combed and carded yarn was collected from spinning mill
considering other properties. Collected 26 Ne carded and combed yarn for
producing single jersey fabric. 28 Ne and 30 Ne carded and combed was taken for
producing rib and interlock structure fabric. Knitting machine parameters such as
stitch length, number of feeders, take -down tension and cam arrangement were
individually set for single jersey, rib and interlock structure fabric. Same structure
fabrics were produced in same knitting parameters in same machine by using
same count carded and combed yarn.

Here 2.67mm stitch length was used for producing single jersey fabric. Two single
jersey specimens were found with different grey GSM. The samples were
delivered for dyeing after measuring grey GSM. Dyeing process was done in same
bath in same dyeing condition and same dyeing recipe for comparing finished
fabric properties. Samples were finished in same procedure and same finishing
parameters after completing dyeing and obtained two samples with different
finished GSM. The rib and Interlock structure fabric were produced by using
2.52mm and 1.8mm stitch length, in rib knitting machine and interlock knitting
machine. Equal knitting parameters were used for carded and combed yarn of
same count (individual for rib and interlock structure). As a result four samples
were obtained of rib and interlock structure. Then the samples were dying in
equal dyeing condition and same bath in same dyeing recipe (individual for rib
and Interlock fabric). Final samples were found for rib and interlock structure
after finishing (in same finishing parameter, individual for rib and interlock)

EXPERIMENTAL

Knitting requires a relatively fine, smooth, strong yarn with good elastic recovery
properties. The carded yarn is particularly used for knitwear, underwear and
socks and combed yarn is used for underwear, sportswear and socks. Four
primary structures-Plain, Rib, Interlock and Purl are the base structures from
which all weft knitted fabrics and garments are derived. In this work study single
jersey(Plain),rib and interlock structure fabric were produced by using same count
carded and combed yarn. A same count carded and combed yarns have many
different properties which influence the fabric quality. The term GSM of fabric
means the weight of the fabric in grams per square meter (Weight per unit area)
GSM is the most important parameter which is maintained in the factory or
industry. It is maintained in the all stages in the processing of knit fabric. It is also
measured after dyeing, before dyeing and every stages of finishing process like
stentering, compacting etc. GSM was measured by GSM cutter. Here grey GSM
were measured in the knitting stages and finished GSM were measured after
finishing for comparing them.

300

280
250
245
Gsm(Gram per Sqaure Meter)

240
200 214

185
175
150
Made from carded yarn
Made from combed yarn
100

50

0
single jersey Rib Interlock
Types of fabric

Comments: The above table and figure show the GSM variation on same count of
carded and combed yarn where the stitch length is 2.67mm for single jersey ,
2.52mm for Rib and 1.80mm for Interlock fabric. For example, two single jersey
fabrics are made from same yarn count like as 26 Ne, the produced fabric GSM
were varied from each other as 175 to 185. And so on.
Table: Effect of combed& carded (same count) yarn on 100% cotton knit fabric
GSM.

Single jersey rib interlock

26 Ne yarn& 2.67mm S.L 28 Ne yarn& 2.52mm S.L 30 Ne yarn& 1.80mm S.L
GSM(Made GSM(Made GSM( Made GSM( Made GSM( Made GSM( Made
from from combed from from from carded from
carded yarn) carded combed yarn) combed
yarn) yarn) yarn) yarn)
175 185 214 240 245 280

Selection of Yarn Count for Various GSM for Different Fabrics

Fabrics/ Plain or Pique 1x1 Rib Lycra Lycra Interlock

GSM Single- 1x1 Rib 2x2 Rib
jersey

100 36 47 42 47 45 60
120 33 44 39 44 43 55
140 30 40 37 42 41 51
160 27 37 34 40 39 47
180 24 34 32 37 37 43
200 22 30 29 35 35 40
220 19 27 27 32 32 35
240 16 24 25 30 30 30

Comments: The above data table indicates the yarn count of different fabrics for
producing a particular GSM. Of fabric . Here the GSM ranges from 100 to 240 in
relation to various yarn count.
 60
60 plain or single jersey pique 1x1 Rib 1x1 Lycra Rib 2x2 Lycra Rib Interlock
55
51
50 47 47 47
45 44 4443
42 42 43
39 40 41 4039 40
40 37 37 3737
36 3535 35
33 34 34
32 3232
yarn count

30 3029 303030
30 27 2727
24 2425
22
19
20
16

10

0
100 120 140 160 180 200 220 240
GSM Variation

Comments:

The above data table and figure indicates the yarn count of different fabrics for
producing a particular GSM. Of fabric . Here the GSM ranges from 100 to 240 in
relation to various yarn count. For example, for manufacturing 100 GSM of fabric
we need 36/1 for single jersey, 47/1 for pique, 42/1 for 1x1 rib, 47/1 for 1x1 lycra
rib, 45/1 for 2x2 lycra rib and 60/1 for interlock fabrics.