Shaker, Mi ion

& Country Projects

American Style
Shaker, Mission
& Country Projects

Neptune
 CONVERSION CHART
WEIGHT EQUIVALENTS TEMPERATURE EQUIVALENTS
(ounces and pounds / grams and kilograms) (fahrenheit I celsius)

us METRIC us METRIC

% OZ 7g 0" F (freezer temperature) -lS- C

% OZ 14 9 32' F (water freezes) 0- C
%oz 21 9 98.6" F (normal body temp.) 37° C
1 oz 28 9
0
180 F (water simmers)* src
8 OZ (1/2 Ib) 227 9
0
212 F (water boils)* 100" C
12 oz (% Ib) 340 9
16 oz (1 Ibl 454 9 *at sea level
35 oz (2 2 Ib) 1 kg

CONVERSION FORMULA CONVERSION FORMULA

ounces x 28.35 = grams degrees fahrenheit minus 32, divided by 1.8
1000 grams'" 1 kilogram = degrees celsius

LINEAR EQUIVALENTS VOLUME EQUIVALENTS

(inches and feet / centimetres and metres) (fluid ounces / millilitres and litres)

us METRIC us METRIC

% in 0.64 em 1 tbsp (% fl OZ) 15 ml

112 in 1.27 em 1/2 cup (4 fl OZ) 120 ml
1 in 254 em 1 cup (8 fl oz) 240 ml
6 in 15.24 em 1 quart (32 fl oz) 960 ml
12 in (1 foot) 30.48 em 1 quart + 3 tbsps 1L
2
1 tt 929.03 em' 1 gal (128 II ozl 3.8 L
1
39 /2 in 1.00 m 1 in 3
16.39 em)
1 yd 91.44 em 1 ft' 0.0283 m 3
2
1 yd' 0.84 m 1 yd J 0.765 m 3

CONVERSION FORMULA CONVERSION FORMULA

inches x 2.54 = centimetres fluid ounces x 30 = millilitres
100 centimetres = 1 metre 1000 millilitres = 1 litre

DISCLAIMER
Readers should note that this book was initially intended for
publication in the United States of America, and the
ex;stence of different laws, conditions and tools means that
. ,,-~e reader's' responsibility to ensure that they comply
:. :.. ._ all safety requirements and recommended best practices
in the European Economic Area.
The improper use of hand tools and power tools can result in
serious injury or death. Do not operate any tool until you
-::, ~ carefully read its instruction manual and understand
~ - . ~,:) ooerate the tool safely. Always use all appropriate
. - - ... :::ment as well as the guards that were supplied
.. :.' ~:::s a~d equipment. In some of the illustrations in
this book, guards and safety equipment have been removed
only to provide a better view of the operation. Do not
attempt any procedure without using all appropriate safety
equipment or without ensuring that all guards are in place.
Neither August Home Publishing Company nor Time-Life
Books assume any responsibility for any injury, loss or
damage arising from use of the materials, plans, instructions
or illustrations contained in this book, However, nothing
here is intended to exclude or limit liability for death or
personal injury if, and to the extent that, such exclusion or
limitation would be contrary to public policy or otherwise be
unenforceable.
,
CUSTOM WOODWORKING

American Style
Shaker, Mission
& Country Projects
 American Style
Shaker, Mission
& Country Projects

SHAKER PROJECTS 6
Shaker Step Stool ..
UJ£S of Shaker wuches urI.' found in this small project. There are two
versions, one mcu1e with hand-cut dotietails, the other with butt jojnt~.

Shaker Hall Table. . 14

Simji/e lines hide the clwllen{{es that make tr.is whle Tewardillg to build.
Alul the whole project can he wme with a whle saw and a router.
Rocking Chair _._,._._ 26
Its Shakr herirage has been updated with some modem techniques.
And there's an old skiU that ma)' Ix! new 10 )'01t: weaving- a scat.
Shakcr~Style Footstool - - - -..-..-
It doesn't rake long- to buiW Ihis foo!-ltool w nuuch the. rocking chair.
The two In-ojem share many of the same technujl-les.

Shaker Step Stool

MISSION PROJECTS 46
Hall Clothes Tree
A special intcrlocking design brin~ this hall tree tog-ether with a distinc-
tive [wk. It also makes it srrong and srable, without a massjtJe "trunk."
Oak Sofa Table .54
Ewrythingyou'd upecr in a Mission-slyle sofa table isf~ in this projecl,
including ~tm oak, square spindles, and mortist: and feIlOI1 joiner)',
Glass-Top Coffee Table 62
Made of quarrersaum ook, this rradirionaI coffee roble is enhanced with a
beveled glass top. There's also an option far a solid wood wi>.
Mission Bookcase 7Z
Buill u:irh madunery and handwork, rhis cherry bookcase fearures Mrmlgh
mortise and lCJ\OIl joinery. II am be buill ll'ith or U;UWII[ the glass dooTs.

Oak Sofa Table

COUNTRY PROJECTS 88
Coat and Glove Rack 90
Hang coats and mittens or culls and li1ll:.:m rm this Tack featuring slOrage
behind it~ door. An optional finish turns it into an "iruUlnl antique."

High-Back Bench 96
This bench can be built with or without storage unacr IN! seal, with your
choice of de.lignl ill the back and finished with stain or milk jJuint.
Jelly Cupboard . . 106
Back when jelly was wide at home, a simj)!e cujJboard like mis .. tored the
finished product. This \Il..'l'sion offr:rs sewral options w "chess it «p."
Dovetail Chest .. . 114
High-Back Bench
l'and-cut doveUliIs jJrovilJe stmwh and beaW)" For a different look, try
the frwTJe, and panel tlCT:'iicm. Bom offer loIS of Stln'age and a pulI~OUI nay.

Sources l26
Index 127
T
he Shakers developed" uniquely American style of
furniture. By removing unnecessary ornamentation,
the Shakers kept their designs simple and h.Ulctional,
yet always in \X'rfect proportion. The {me Srulker look is
detlll <lnd elegant, with every fcarure serving a purpose and
with nothing wastl-'t.I.
The first [WO projects arc perfect examples of the Shaker
ide,l] offunction without decoration. The step stool's hand;
cut dovetails lend strength where it's needed, yet display
workmanlike detail. The hall tahle achieves its lightness
and grace by its legs cut with simple ta{X:rs.
On dIe matching rocking chair and footstool, you'll find
an interesting way to make your own dowels. Then, when
the woo:lworking is done, you can try your hand at another
Shaker craft, wcaving SC'JCS with nadirional webbing.

Shaker Step Stool 8

Shop Tip: Filling Gaps.....................••.... 9
Designer's Notebook: Country Step Stool 12

Shaker Hall Table 14

Shop Tip: Tight·Fit Shoulders 17
Joinery: Locked Rahhet Joint 20
Designer's Notebook: Lamp Table .....•........... 21
Shop Jig: Leg Tapering Jig " 22
Technique: Tapering on the Jointer 24

Rocking Chair 26
Shop Tip: Shaping Leg Bottoms.............••.... 30
Technique: Routing Tenons on Dowels .....•••..... 31
Technique: Notching Round Stock ........•••..... 35
Technique: Making Your Own Dowels ............• 37
Technique: Wea ;ng a Shaker Seat 38
Designer's Notebook: Alternate Weaving Patterns 42

Shaker-Style Footstool 43
 Shaker Step Stool
Made from cherry with hand-cut dovetails, this step stool has lots of Shaker touches in a smaff project.
Or you can try your hand at our optional country version made ofpine and using buttjoints.
haker furniture is famous for its
S basic, uncluttered style, as well as
its unquestion<:d utility. The step
stool shown here is a classic example of
Shaker design at its bt$t. It '5 simple fur-
niture that works.
DOVETAILS. The only decoration (ifil
can be called that) if; the beauty of the
wood and the dovetail joiots.
And when you look closely, you'll sec
there arc two types of dovetails. First,
the treads of the steps arc joined to the
Ic!.'S with traditional through-dovetails.
Then, you'll sec the braces al the front
of each step (and also across the back)
arc secured to the leg-s with a variation
8 SHAKER PROJECTS
of this joint. Here, a half-dovetail joint
adds a nice louch of craftsmanship. (II
you've never cut dovetails by hand or
need to brush up your technique, step-
by-step instructions begin on page 120.)
ALTERNATE STYLE AND JOINT. With a
few minor changes, the step stool can
be buill as a country-style stool. This
version is put together primarily with
butt joints and screws. Instructions for
building this option are given in the
Designer's Notebook on page 12.
MATERIALS. The slep sLool in the
photo was made from cherry. I chose
cherry lor this project mostly because
it's tight-grainer! so it's an excellent
wood to work with hand tools. Also, the
Shakers would likely have used cherry
for this project. But just about any 3N_
thick hardwood would be suitable.
FINISH. 'Ioe stool shown above was
finished with Danish oil, which is a mix-
tun: of tung oil or linseed oil and var-
nish. This provides a finish that's
durable. but easy to touch up as the step
stool gets scuffed from usc.
There is also an unexpected benefit
to choosing this finish. It provided a way
to fill some of the slight imperfections
you may have in the fit of the dovetails.
To learn more about this, see the Shop
Tip on the next page.
EXPLODED VIEW
MATERIALS LIST
OVERAll DIMENSIONS:
15Wx 14Dx21H WOOD
A Short Leg (2) %x7-10'h
B long Leg (2) %x7-21
C Step (2) 3f4 x7-1S
o Braces (3) %x2-1S

STEP©--)

~-@BRACF

LONG
LEG
~

CUTTING DIAGRAM

SHORT
LeG
®

-~

. . . .. . . . . . . . .............. Filling Gaps

Very few woodworkers can
cut perfect dovetails every
time. There are bound to be
small voids no matter how
hard you try. The trick is to
fill these voids so they blend
into the rest of the joint.
One solution is to apply a
liberal amount of a Danish
oil. Then while it's still wet,
sand with 220 grit silicon
carbide sandpaper.
While you sand, you'll
create a slurry of sawdust
and oil. As it accumulates,
work this slurry into the gaps
in the joint. Keep sanding
until there's enough to fill
the voids between the pins
and tails.
The mixture will dry very
hard, and it matches the end
grain of the pins and tails
almost perfectly.

SHAKER STEP STOOL 9

 AYOU _ to each long leg to ronn the stair-step
legs (Fiy..f).
It's casie~t to start this project by
thinking of the legs as four separate
Although this makes laying out the
tails a bit awkward (Fig. 4), there is a
TRIM SIZE;
LONG LEG 7" x 21" ~5
I",
SHORT lEG 7" x lOW
pieces. '111ere are two short lcg~ (A) for reason. rr you glue the legs t.ogether STEF 1" x 15"
the front and tviO long legs (13) for the
hack (Fi!). 1). Later, a short and long leg
first, yOll can plane this assembly,
evening out any variation at the glue-
I
arc joined together to form each ';stair-
step" leg (Fig..J). SO I started by laying
joint line. Since you'll have to plane the
whole surface, the thickness oflhe pins
r\ -- FRONT EDGE .. /

out the cuts to make the [OUf legs and

two steps (C).
will change. 'Vhen the pins are al their
finallhickncss, then they can be used to f--s : _l2~
,,"
GLUE UP. first, I cut two pieces for layout the tails. When marking- the ,I
each leg. oneS" wide and onc 2 112" wiele. i
I ii
tails, make sure the steps are lined up lew. 1,
These are edge-glued together (F'i,g.l). with the mwk edge of the leg. SHORT
LONG 1,
LEG
(These pieces can be different widths FINAL fiTTING. Onee the pins and LEG
® ® I
as long as the glued up blank is a bit tails are cut, go ahead and tap the joints
wider than 7".)
Nler the glue was dry, I planed the
blanks flat. Make sure thcoy"re an even
together. Thejoints should be tight, and
the assembled stool should be square.
Once everything fits, the boltom of
- Ii" ~
FRONT EDGE--/
~----_._-

-15%
thickness, especially at the ends (where the legs can be cut of( square. Finally, to 5,
STEP©
the dovetails will be cul). keep the stool from rocking on an
After each blank was planed, I cul off uneven floor, a 4"- radius half-circle is
one end square with the edges (leaving cuton the bottom of each leg.
the other end rough, and a little long- for
now). Then 1 ripped them all down to
the final width of7". lEI 1=, 'i
,
TOP VIEW
• i

I
DO "
The next step is to layout Ihe curs fOf
the dovetails in the legs and :<leps.
Since the tails can be made fairly
FACE5IDF~~
.--'
~
1% ------" v. r-1Y.o
'&
-v.r
,
Wir-- lY. -------l v. lY.
~
----l v.. r-
wide, they're strong enough to support
I II II II I
X
a person's weight. So the joints should
be laid out with the tails on the steps SIDE VIEW
and the pin~ 011 the legs. '---- AlJ..OoN SPAG: FOR NOTCH lEG®®
Once fd decided on the placement of TO BE ctTT LATER
the pins and tails, I figured their size DOVETAil LAYOUT
(Fig. 2). The tails afe five times wider
than the pins to provide the strength
needed on the steps.
However, there is one more thing Lo
allow for whenlayin,lo{ out the joint. Even
'1 n n
,n
though the width of each board is 7'1,
CLAMP STEP
the dovetails are laid out across a width TO BENCH
of only 6W'. The extra %" on the front
edge of each board allows for the thick-
MARK DOWN 10~"-_
FROM TOP OF LONG LEG ~ \
SHO~r~T~~K
ness of the brace (added later).
PINS. The pins arc laid out so the nar-
rowest part is on the outside (face side)
of each leR (lop View in Fig. B). 'nlcn a
. , >-, ~-;;-., 1 /

bevel gauge is set to a 1:5 angle to mark BENCH

the angles on the end of cach board
(lop View in Fig. B). I
GLUE lEGS
After marking the cut lines, cut the TOGETHER
pins as with any other dovetail joint -
\
LAY OUT TAILS
ON STEP USING
except the hal( pin on the front edge of
each piece is left extra wide to allow for
the notch for the brace (li'i.q. 3).
__ I I
PINS AS TEMPLATE

GLUE UP LEGS. Before marking the '== TRIM BOTTOM LATER

cut lines for the tails, I glued a short leg

10 SHAKER PROJECTS
II

Before gluing the legs and steps BRACE@ HAlf TAlLS

2 ON BOTH ENDS
together, the braces (D) must be cut. SHCXJLDER·TO-SHOULDER MEASUREMENT EQUALS DISTANCE _._--~ ..
There arc three braces: one on the back BElWEEN LEGS
to prevent racking and two at the front
to reinforce the steps.
HALF·TAIL. All three braces are joined
to the legs with half-dovetail joints. This
amounts to a large half-pin notch in the
POSJTlON BACK
front. edge of each leg, and a matching BRACE LEVEL WITH
~ FRONT BRACE
half-tail on each end of the braces. [
found it easiest to cut the half-tail first,
then usc it to layout the notches.
BRACE ," '
@ "--Jr--MARKOF THICKNESS MARKOUT :
To cut the half-tail, mark a 1:5 angle
on only one end of each brace. This line
, BRACE NOTCH- __....L ...
,,
starts 114" up from the bottom edge .'
~""J6,,",-"""--SQUARE ACROSS
BAO< BRACE

MARK ANGLE~_ l
Wig. lOa). Theil mark a shoulder line
equal to the thickness of the leg. Cul
down the shoulder line with a dovetail
ON FRONT EDGE)..
OF LEG FRONT EDGE
OF LEG
LEG
® MARK ANGLE Of )
HAl.F-TAIL AND--
SQUARf ACROSS
"
saw and remove the waste with a chisel.
Before marking the shoulder line on
the ot/ler end of each brace, first dry- ClIT SHOULDER MARK POsmON OF
assemble the legs with the steps. Then -FIRST NOTCH ON STEP

~.
make sure the shoulder-tn-shoulder
measurement on the brace is equal to PARE 00\rVN
\-\11TH ,If""'~bl;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;-1
CHISEL- -ToI
the dist:mce between the legs (Fig. :j).
Now you can mark the angle and cut out
the V-notch.
HALF-PINS. Once the half-tails are
-\
CLEAN OUT WASTE
LONG LEG
cut, hold the ends of the brace against VI'ITH COPING SAW
®
the front le&rs to mark the cut lines for
the half-pin notches (Pig. 6). 1 used a
dovetail saw to saw down bOlh cut lines.
The half-pin notch on the back is cut
a bit differently. After marking the cut
lines (so they're even with the front a.
brace), I made the two shoulder Cllts to
tlle depth ofthe notch (Fig. 8). Then I
removed most of the waste with a 1:5 ANGLE
coping saw, and cleaned up the cut with I
f-----1~~
a chisel.
After the notches are cut, trim the
front edges of the steps to final width THICKNESS. j

(Fig. 9). OF LEG -.----..-/

G [

After dry-assembling the stool to check

~ ~~7~~r--7+----I
6'4 ,~+21 1'7'11

'"
-i
the fit and for square, I glued every-
thing together. I positioned the clamps
on top of the tails to pull the joints tight.
A piece of scrap under the le.'{s provided
a clamping surface across the half-
circle cul-oul.

l~==!,_RADlU5~
Althou.'{h it was nice to use hand
tools for most of this project, I cheated a
bit and used a belt sander LO bring the Jl
pillS J1ush with the surface of the steps.
FINISH. Finally, I finished the step
stool with a Danish oil. •
t=:= 3=:1 --1~==

SHAKER STEP STOOL 11

This country version ofthe step stool uses screws and buttjoints instead ofdovetails.
For a real country look, try making it from pine and finishing it with milk paint.

CO ST 'c..:..::~,--- _
\\\
·-->U

Start by gluing up four panels a little

long for the two short legs (A) and two
long legs (R) (see drawing below).
When the glue is dry, cut the panels to
?-:f:::=--=-~1--r~
finished length. (Ille legs arc not glued
together to form the stairsteps until
after some cuts are made in each piece.)
• Next, cut 2W'-wide notches in each
panel for the braces. One way to cut
II \ 0) I
1 ,~-',
I'yl bl
Irk
11
these is with a dado blade on the table Y ~ ~_J4...._
saw. A tall auxiliary fence fastened to
your miter gauge will help keep the
,
k:::::=='::-~
,;;;:::;-- ~
..r
c~~_ ~"1
pieces steady during the cuI.
• To lay oul a :W'-wide notch for the ."
bottom step in the long leg (ll), set a I _ __-'-- -~I,
I ' r"-------:::::--- ' I
short leg (A) next to a long leg with
their bottom ends flush. The top of the
short leg indicates the bottom of the \ . '~f"'-L" 'r:. t/ '- Y

l-
step notch. Cut the notch lN' deep.
• Now layout the location of the heart \ ,_J
cutout in each of the long legs.
\ j

COUNTRY STEP STOOL

1 ~.'J£ %
1
DRIU TWO
MATERIALS LIST
CHANGED PARTS HARDWARE SUPPLIES
.-' 1Y." HOLES
~-- A Short Lpgs (2)
B Long Legs (2)
% x 7·9%
"3f4 x 7· 201{4
(12) NO.8 x t· Fh screws
(8) No.8 x 1111" Fh scre'NS
C Steps(2) %x8-16 (1) %" dowel. 12" long
I o B'aces(3) %x2lf4 -15

f
f
CO"G
CEG
® r l' HOLE so
7l\
r---" ,....--- r-,..u
,
CUT NOTCHES BEFORE
ASSEMBLING HALVES
t AUGNMENT

I !
.1Y--'Y_,--"--_..J..-1-1:--..J--.J.
3Y< KEY

1:-
3 -+' ..! 1\~ ~- 3 ---.-

I.. 14 )00'

12 SHAKER PROJECTS
 (A diamond shape can be cut instead
of the heart by usin~ the pattcrn on
page 99. Just rcducc thc scale of the pat-
.. 15

tern to one square cquals one-half inch @

and use a radius of2 1/16 " .) 2%
To cut the heart, simply drill a 1WI- t
L"@"-~--
dia. hole on either side of the panel's
centerline. Then use a jig saw to cut
-J%k- @
along a line connecting the outside of
BRACE
(MAKE THREE PIECES) %" COUNTERBORE. DEEP
IJv1TH ¥i&" SHANK HOLE
*"
each circle to the centerline. Use sand-
paper to ease the edges of the cui-out
and smooth any rou~h spots. With the framework assembled, the
Finally, .'rlue the short and long legs panels for the steps (C) can be glued up
together (Fig. 1). An alignment key and cut 1.0 size (Fig. 4).
made from scrap will help kecp the A hand-hold in the top step makes the
short leg flush with the step notch. step stool easier to carry. Luy oul the
"When the leg assemblies are dry, lay hand-hold as shown in Pig. 4. To cut it
out the slool's feet. To do this, first out, first drill a 1'l.dia. hole at each end
locatc and drill the I"-dia. holes at thc and then cut out the waste between
top. 111en cut out the remaining wastc them with ajig saw (Fig. /5),
uSlllg ajig- saw. To ease the edges of the stells and the
• Next, cut three braces (D) 21f4!' wide hand-hold. use a :ljs" roundover bit to
and 15!11 0ng from 3f41!'stock (Fig. 2). rout a bullnose profile. To do this, set
• To layout the arc on each of the the bit ~/16" below the router base and Fill the counterbores Oil the steps
braces (Fig. f), refer to the Shop Tip on make a pass on each face (Fig, 4a). with dowel plugs, thcn cut and sano
page 65. Next. cut notches in the bottom step them flush.
Note: Thc shoulder of the arc is that match up with the notches in the Finally, ease any sharp edges with
slightly wider than the leg (13/16"). Later, back legs (Fig. 6). To do this, center the sandpaper, then apply a finish. For a
this shoulder is sanded down, helping bottom step on the frame and mark the finish lhat stands up to lots of use, try
the brace blend into the leg. positions of the notches. Then cut the polyurethane. For a more traditional
'Ihrough the end of each brace, drill notches WI deep using a dado blade. country look, see the Finishing box
3/16'I-dia. shank holes with Ys'l-dia. coun- Now you can fasten the steps to the about milk paint beginning on page 104,
terbores Ys" deep (Fig. 2). legs. Simply cenler a step on the frame,
.'1'0 assemble the framework, first posi- (There should be a 112'1 overhang on all
tion the braces against the legs and drill sides.) Then drill counterbores, shank
pilol holes into the legs. '!lIen glue and holes and pilot holes as you did for the
screw the braces to the legs (/o'ig. 3). braces. Finally, glue the steps to the
Next, fill each counterbore by gluing braces and screw them La rhe legs using
in a length of %"-dia. dowel. No.8 x llfz" Fh woodscrews (Fig. 7).

TOP STEP© BOTTOM STEP © 1 r+- Y,

rc:
'~ J -~I ao
BACK EDGE ._-.........., NOTCH W1DTl1 TO FIT LEG EDGE D£1'All

A -AI 1%"
. n~ .
NOTCH \Io0DEEP ~ _"..;1(0 A.
: ~ 6 ;~-'-l t ,,

•
(
DRIU 1"..[)IA STARTER HOLES
,
. cr
~- %" COUNTERBORE. %" DEEP
WlTHVi6" SKANK HOlE 0
8

I "•I
2 y ~o
EXTENDED~"
ROUNOOVER BIT.

•k
PAST ROUTt:R BASE

" ~
I " •
1" HOLE......, TRIM v." DOWEt
FLUSH
(STEP
, CEG
c
::
CENTER BOTIOM STEP
GLUE STEPS
TO BRACES
\
ATIACH STEPS WITH
MARK NOTCH LOCATION Iffi x 1\?" Fh WOODSCRE"vVS

SHAKER STIP STOOL 13

 Shaker Hall Table
The simple lines of this table hide the woodworking techniques that make it so rewarding to build.
Even though there's a variety ofjoinery, it can al/ be cut on the table saw and router table.
his hall table is probably the most
T traditional Shaker project in this
book. The tapered legs, a hall-
mark of Shaker design, lead up to the
straight., uncluttered lines of the table.
TIle legs have a square taper thai'f.
cut on a table saw. It's a simple tech-
nique that's made even easier with ajig
we show you how to build beginning on
page 22. 111ere's also a way to l1l.per the
legs on the jointer. Instructions for
doing this begin on page 24.
JOINERY. The legs arc joined to the
front and side aprons with traditional
mortise and tenon joints. If you haven't
tried this type of joinery, it's not as diffi-
14 SHAKER PROJECTS
ell 11 as it sounds. It can all be done on a yard, cherry is usually a light pink or
router table (for the mortises) and a
table saw (for the tenons).
DRAWERS. For the drawers, I used
two variations of a locked rabbel joint
As its name implies, it locks the sides of
the drawer to the drawer fronl and
back. This makes it quite strong so the
drawers can lake years of use. Thisjoint
is abo cutentircly on the table saw.
FINISH. I builtlhis wble out of cherry.
One of the keys 10 success when fin-
ishing cherry is patience. It takes time
for the wood to reach lhe rich red color
that cherry is known for.
When it comes from the lumber·
salmon color. There's no need to stain it
lo gel the dark color. As soon as the
finish is applied, the wood will darken
somewhat. With time (about six
months) and continued exposure io
sunlight, it will turn a rich, dark red. It's
well worth the wait.
LAMP TABLE. In the Desig-ner's
Notebook on page 21. we show how you
can make a lamp table companion piece
(or two) by simply shortening the
length of the table. And since the con-
struction is so similar, it's easy to cut the
parts for the lamp table while you're set
up to cut pieces for the hall table.
EXPLODED VIEW
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
42W X 14'120 x 29H lY,"SQUARE
lOP QI= LEGS

'lr --i

I sv.
6
11? I--
-,SLOT
MOR11SE

BACK
APRON
@ 11
-TAPER
STMnNG
UNE

@ rIY
FRONT
FRONT
CENTERS
OWL Ffr?bVCD- - CD/
ORA\rVER
RUNNER

~
DriR

A/

DRAWER
BonOM
®
0',
TAPER \10"
®
DRAWER
FROM
EACH SIDE
FRONT
CD
DRAWER
SIDE

,
MATlRlALS UST
TABLE
A Legs (4) Phx Jlh-28V,,-
8 Back Apron (1l "%)(5 111-37
C Side Aprons (2) ~1 x <;'IL - 10"/;,
[) Front Rails (2) -'I" x 1 - 37 CUTTING DIAGRAM
E Front~nds(2) Jhx3 1h_2 3k
F FrontCenter(l} 3hx3112-3\h WI x 3% - 60 (3.2 Bd. Ft.)
G Drawer Guides{21 %x 111:;-10% I A A :21
H Top Mounts (3) % x l 1h - 10%
I Drawer Runners (4) 3/. x 1112 - 1Qlf. l,i x 94 60 (2.5 Bd. Ft.)
J Top (1)
DRAWERS
-'I. x 14112-42
1'---_ _, _~ ~'_ '----,_~
K rronts (2) -Y/,X43{'6-14 11h6 ~ x 61?· 84 (3,9 Bd. Ft.)
L Sides (4) V) X 37/16 - lQ31.
M 8acks (2) %x 2"'h6 - 13 7/16 ~LJ_ I~LdL-- ~
v=
N Bottoms (2) %pIy-1O'iI8x137/,o
v.,x6-96 (4Bd.Ft.)
HARDWARE SUPPLIES
(2) No, 6 x ~f4· Rh wood,crews ,H :::r:=:E_H_=
__~I '_=1
(6) No 8 x 1%. Rh woodscrews
(6) 3116" (lal washers '!.! x 3-'A - 84 (2.~'~Sq~.~'~<.1'-,_-,-_ _-,-_-,-_-,-_ _--,-__
(18) 31." brads
(4) 5fs" brads
ILIL LIL1MIM~
NOTE: ALSO NEED ONE SHEET OF"'· x 24" x48" PLYWOOD FOR DRAWER BOTTOMS.
(4) , '-dia.cherryknobsw/saews

SHAKER HALL TABLE lS

 LEGS

a. This project starts by making the

tapered legs and cutting the mortises in
each oftbem.
Begin by cutting four leg blanks (A)
,) ,
to IIf2" square by 281/~"long (refer to the
hcmrrmJ) .

NOTE:
..
l.' Exploded View on page 15).
MORTISES. Arter cutting the legs to
size, mark two adjacent sides where the
mortises will be cut (It's best to cul the
MEASURE TO mortises before tapering the legs.) TIle
RIGHT SIDE Of BIT
mortises arc easy to cut on a router
table with a W' straight bit.
To set up the router table for the
mortises, start by raising the bit (1/16'1
high (Fi,q. la). Then move the fence
until the bit is centered on the thickness
a. 8OTTOMVIEW
of the leg.
The length of the morLisc is set by
clamping a stop block to the fence 5JN'
from the right side of the bit (Fig. O.
~ow you can cut the mortises on two
adjacent sides.
TAPERS. After the mortises are
routed, the next step is to t'\per all four
sides of each leg. To cut the tapers, I
used a sliding platform jig 011 the table
saw (Fig. 2). (Instructions for building
and using this jig begin on page 22. An
alternate method of tapering the legs,
using the jointer, is shown 011 page 24.)
Whatever method you usc, the point
is to cut a tapcr on each side of the leg
that starts 6" from the top end and
tapers down so the bottom end is III
" squarc. This means cutting WI off each
side (Fig. 2a).

APRONS
Alter the tapers are cut, the next step is
to cut the fronl apron assembly. This
consists of five pieces glued together to
form two drawer openings Wig . .'f).
fRONT APRON. To make the front
apron, start by ripping the top and
bottom rails (D) 11' wide by 37" long.
a. EQUALS To make the three dividers for this
~'9THICl<NESS front assembly, rip a blank 3W I wide.
• OF CROSS
SAW
MEMBER Then cut off two end dividers (E) 2%"
FENCE long, and a front center (F) 31(211 long.
JOINT
UN' (lois ensures that the grain runs the
same direction as the rails.)
ASSEMBLE fRONT APRON. After cut-
ting all five pieces for the front apron,
glue and clamp the dividcrs betwcen
the top and bottom rails (Fig. ,'J). Makc
DADO
BlAD' sure the center divider (F) is centered
on the length, and the end dividers (E)
are nush with the ends.

16 SHAKER PROJECTS
 BACK AND SIDE APRONS. Next, cut
the back apron (B) and side aprons (C).
Start by ripping- the stock for these
pieces to a width of 5IN1• -men cut the
three pieces 10 finished lengths of 10lJ/
for the sides, and :17 11 for the back. (!be
back apron should be exactly as wide
and as long as the fronl assembly.)
GROOVES. To support and bruide the
drawers, cross members (G, H, I) fit
into Ill-wide grooves cut along the
inside faces of the fronL and back
aprons (refer to Fig. 11 on page 18).
The positions of these grooves are
critical. They have to be cut so that
when the drawer runners (I) are
mounted, they're flush with the top
edge of the front apron's bottom rail
(refer to Fig. lIe on page 18).
To set up the saw for this position,
adjust the fence so the distance from
the inside edge of the rail (the join! line
shown in Pig. 4a) to the inside edge of
the dado blade equals the thickness of
the stock for the drawer runner. (Inis
means you need to mea~urc from the
joint line, not the rip fence.) -lne11 cut
the grooves in the frOllt and back
aprons (Fig. 4).
TENONS. Now lenons can be cut on
the ends of the aprons to lit the mor-
tises in the legs. J cut them on the table
SilW (Fig.:i).
The Ill-long tenon is formed by cut-
ting lf2!'-wide rabbets on bOLh faces of
the apron (Fig. ;'ja).
Note: 111e tenon is 1/16" less than the
depth of the mortise to allow a little glue
relief at the bottom of the mortise.
To cut the tenons, I used a %"-wide
dado blade and moved a wooden auxil-
iary fence over the blade so only IN'
was exposed (Fig. 5).
Sneak up on the final height of the
blade by raising itand making a pass on
both faces of a scrap piece until the
tenon fits the mortise, Once set, cut rab-
bets on both ends of all four aprons to
produce tenons centered on the thick-
ness of the stock.
Note: To get a tight fit against the
leg, I used a chisel to slightly undercut
the shoulders of each tenon, (See the
Shop Tip at the bottom of this page for
more on this.)
NOTCH TENONS. SO that the top of
each apron will sit flush with the top of
each leg, the bottom end of each tenon
has to be notched (pig. 7). Since the
mortises are rounded on the bottom, I
cut the tenon a t.rine shorter so I didn't
have to square up the bottom of the
mortise, This means cuuing a %'1 notch
on the bottom of each tenon (Fig. 6).
END PIECES. To make assembly
easier later, I glued a pair of legs to each
side apron to produce two complete end
units. But don't glue on the front or
back aprons yet.

SIDE APRON © GLUE

SIDES
NOTCH TO

T T
rBOITOM "GS
OF EACH
TENON
~-
Sl\
a. TENON sv.
NOTCH TEST FIT
TENONS
L ~ AFTER
CUTTING
% NOTCH
"-- PLYVIIOOD
AUX. FENCE r- ~
~

There's an easy way to
make mortise and tenon
joints fit together without
gaps at the shoulders.
"Undercutting" simply
means paring away the
end grain 1/64 ' deep along
the tenon's shoulders.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tiqht-At Shoulders
The trick is to undercut Start by lightly pushing a Also, to prevent the
the area next to the tenon chisel straight into the square ends of the tenon
cheek, leaving at least If,6' corner (Fig. I). Do this all from pushing all the glue
untouched along the out- the way around the tenon. to the boltom of the mor-
side edge of the shoulder. Then to remove the waste, tise, lightly chamfer the
If you cut all the way to angle the chisel in toward ends (Fig. 3). This chamfer
the edge, you'll have a gap the cheek of the tenon can be cut with i;I chisel or
and a loose joint. (Fig. 2). block plane.

UGHTlY
CHISEL DOWN LIGHTlY
ALONG TENON L£AVE"" CHAMFER
INTO SHOULDER BORDER TENON EDGES
,YI",>-·...... _. .J
( rY~J--r

SHAKER HALL TABLE 17

CROSS MEMBERS
TOP,&A MB

Next, nine cross members arc cut to fit

between the front and back aprons. a. ;
Two of these pieces mount above the 1~ RABBET
..J.!l.OTH ENDS 'W ~ lOW
drawers for drawer guides (G), three CROSS
MEMBER
are top mounts (H) used to fasten down ©®CD
the table top, and four sit below the
drawers as runners (l) (Fif!. 10).
CUT TO SIZE. First rip enough stock
] IN' wide to make the nine pieces. To
determine their length, dry assemble
the table. (It may be easiest to do this 1m CROSS MEMBER LOCAnON
with the table upside down.) Measure
the distance between the front and back
DRAWER GUIDE-,
! TOP(J)-",
TOP MOUNT --"
,
aprons to get the shoulder-ta-shoulder
length of the cross members. Now add
.
ljz,r to this measurement LO account for a <E!I ©J <Bf ©-) ®
1/4 "-long tenon on each end.
After cutting the pieces to length,
form the tenons bycuttinga WI-wide by
~-- - "-0 J ----. .~
./
DRAWER RUNNER
1/4'I-deep rabbet at each end (}'iy. 8).
DRAWER GUIDES, The two drawer
guides «;) each have a W'-widc groove
cut down the center (Fig. Va). This
groove guirles a pin that's mounted on
the back of the drawer. The pin helps
keep the drawer slraight as it's pulled
out of the carcase.
TOP MOUNT PIECES, To allow the DRAWER! FRONT
GUIDE .-/ ~ON
table top to expand and contract I
drilled oversir.ed shank holes (%"-dia.)
RRS'r. GLUE UP ENO UNrTS
on thetbree top mounts (II) (Pi{J.llb).
These holes are centered on the width SECONO: ASSEMBLE FRONT
AND BACK APRONS
and drilled 1W' from each end on all DRill TO END UNITS WITH
OVERSIZED W. CROSS MEMBERS
three pieces. SHANK HOLES IN PLACE
TABL£ TOP. r\ow glue up a blank (or
the table lOP (J). 'Then cut Ihis blank to c.
final 5ize so it will overhang each of thc FRONT
side aprons by 171R" and the front and NOTE: f-_"7"_-\r"AffiON
back aprons by {l/ll'l. ®
#8~
WOOOSCRW
lY4'Rh
CD ~
flil-) AND WASHER /.
ASSEMBLY. After the parts are cut, HOlDS TOP DRAWER)
TOP \ DOWN RUNNER-
dry-assemble the table and check it for BACK '-. MOUNTJ
APRON
square. rr everything is okay, glue and ".
clamp the front and back aprons to the
leg units. Make sure the cross mem-
bers arc in position but not glued in.
There's one important thing to S the opening, add VI" for the lips, and
watch as you position the cross mem- - subtracl.l/w'l for clearance.
bers. The rabbets face down on the Once the lable is assembled, all that's SIDES. Thc drawer sides (L) are cut
drawer guides (rig, 11a), but upon the left to build are the drawers. The first from 'l2"-thick stock. Cut them to width
top mount (Fig. 11b), and drawer run- step in making the drawers is to cut the (height) to match the height of the
ners (Fig. l1c). Usc 3/1'1 brads to tack pieces for each drawer to size. drawer opening, minus '/IG" for clear-
only the top mounts (H) in place. The FRONTS. TIle drawer fronts (K) arc anee. As for the length of the sides, mea-
other cross members will be secured cur from :Wtthick stock. 'nlC length of sure the depth of the table (from the
after the drawers are added. each front is "/lfi'l more than the width front of the drawer opening to the baek
Now center the table top on the of the drawer opcning. This allows for a apron). Then subtract about III from
aproJlsand screw (don'tglue) it down to :!jill' lip OlJ both clJds r;:I'1 total), minus thismeastlrement.
the top mounts (Pig. llb). USC ;'I'G'I '/16" for clearancc. As for the height of BACK. The backs (M) are cut to
washers under the screw heads. the drawer front, measure the height of rough width lo maleh the drawer sides

18 SHAKER PROJECTS
and to rough length to match the GUIDE PIN
drawer Iront. (The backs are trimmed --13Jt,._ )
to final size later.)
~---
ROUf EDGES ON
FRONT VVlTH Y,·
LOCKED RABBET JOINT. After cutting ROUNDOVER BIT
the pieces to size, locked rabbet joints
are cut to join the drawer sides to the
fronts (Fig. 1,9). See the Joinery box on
the next page for details on doing this.
SACK
@ T
3"
A variation orlhe locked rabbet joint I
is used to join the drawer back to the
sides. First, trim the back to final
len.l,Tlh. To get this length, measure the
distance from end to end of the longues
CHAM'' (j/
LOWER BACK
CORNER

all the drawer front. Cut the back to 10%

equal this measuremenl.
To cut the locked rabbet joint, first SIDE
cut rabbets on both ends of the back to ---- CD
leave I/ll'Qhick ton,(,'"lJes (F(g. 1.l). Then
cut a dado ill each drawer side to accept
this tongue.
a. .
KNOB
\ W
,><AD
SNIP
(OFF HEAD

DRAWER BOTTOM. Before the drawer

can be assembled, a IN'-deep groove
must be cut in the drawer front and
sides for the plywood bottom (N). (No
groove is needed in the back, since it
rests all top of the drawer bottom.)
To locate the grooves, you need to
measure from different points for the
drawer frOTlt and the sides. On the
drawer front, the l'op edge of this
groove is located II..:." up from the
bottom edge of the Jill (Fiy. 14). On the
drawer sides, it's lh" from the bottom
edge (Fig. 15).
After the grooves are cut, dry-
assemble the drawer and cut the drawer
boltom to fit. Then trim the back to
width so it rests on the plywood bottom.
COMPLETE DRAWERS. All the parts for
the drawer are cut, but there are still a
SCREW '"
I /' J
//
few dctailR to take care of before the
drawers are done.
First, round over the front edges of
each drdwer front with a W' roundover
bit (Fig. 12). Now glue each drawer
together, making sure it's square.
·When the glue was dry, I added a
guide pin on the tOJl edge of the back
(Fig. I!!c). This pin is simply a No.6 x
:lf4!1 brass screw that's screwed part way
inLO the back. Then [ Cllt off the head to
leave a guide pin.
~--l
'"
I16x¥." ' \
WOOOSCREW --<'
One other detail is to cut a slight
chamfer on the bottom back edge of the
drawer so it can be tilted into the
opening (Fig.~. 1;!b wull(j).
Finally, for mO\ll1ting the knobs, I
drilled a l/~'I-dia. hole 2%1" from each
end of tJle drawer fronts (Fig. 12a).
SECURE CROSS MEMBERS. To finish
the table, the drawer guides and run-
ners need to be secured. To do this,
remove the lOp and drawers and drive
;'N brads into the tongues (Fig. 16a) .•

TOP VIEW

CHAMFER EDGE
SACK USING PlANE UNTIL
1....._---- ORAWER SUDES INTO
OPENING

-'- a. ORNE BRADS

THROUGH
b. (ROSS
MEMBER
T ___TONGUES

"
L~~;t<~,Y'
DEEP'
\. "I
CIJT GROOVE .> SIDE GUIDE PIN-"
FROM Ii6 xW
TO FIT DRAWER
BOTTOM t VlJOOOSCREW

SHAKER HALL TABLE 19


here arc probably a dozen joints
that can be used to join the four cor-
ners of a drawer. Ollcofthcf'asie~t (and
strongest) is a locked rabbet. It docsn'l
require any fancy equipment. All that's
needed is a table :;aw and a combination
blade to cut a flat-bottomed groove.
The version of the joint shown here
is for a drawer that has a lipped edge all
the way aroum] the drawer front.
RABBETS. The first step is to cut rab-
bets Oips) on the top and botLom edges
of the drawer front (Step 1).
• • • • • • .Locked Rabbet Joint
TONGUE. Then a longue is cut on
both ends of the drawer [rooL. To do
tbis. sL.1.11d the drawer front on end and
cut a groove on the end of the stock
(St,,}) t). Then widen it to leave a lA"·
wide tongue. (The W' thickness of the
tongue is based on the width of the kerf
left by the saw bhlde.)
The tongue is completed by trim-
ming itto a length of W' (5((>p 3).
DADO. To complete the olher half of
the joint, a WI-wide dado is cut on the
inside face of the drawer side (Step 4).

X
Cut the rabbets on the CUT SIDES TO 'tIIlDTH
top and bottom edges.
DRAIJIIER;
TO EQUAL
SHOULDER-TO- ,
Set the blade -%' high and FRONT \, SHOULDER
~TANCE
A
FACE SIDE --\,",~''il •
adjust the fence-%" from the .--'-
,
AGAINST FENCE '"............
outside of the blade. To ,:a
"'~~~ .;;T.i FACE
SIDE UP J :J.l, I-

~/'<
complete the rabbet, set the
fence 3/8 " from the inside of
the blade. CUT TWO RABBETS
(TOP AND BOnOM) FOR
W x W DRAIJIIER UP

~~
To cut the tongue, set
FACE SIDE
the blade height to 7/8 ". AGAINST FENCE
Then move the fence so the
ALIGN BLADE
WITH SHOULDER
A
•
r-.
THICKNESS
OF RABBET
inside of the blade is on the OF BLADE
shoulder of the rabbet. '--- ,~
MOVE
FENCE
AWAY
Make the first cut, and then FROM
move the fence away fmm
the blade to leave a tongue
~

CUT GROOVE WITH MULTIPLE

Ij , CREEP UP ON
THE TONGUE
VI'IDTH
•
, 'l¢AO'
PASSES TO PRODUCE TONGUE
the same width as the blade.
, ,
3 length,
To cut the tongue to
raise the blade so
A ADD SPACER
it just clears the tongue. DRAlJIIEfl BLOCK---,
FRONT RAISE BLADE TIP
Next, screw or clamp a TO CENTER ----.....
spacer to the fence for the OF DADO \
lip to ride against. (This will
help prevent the waste piece
from kicking back.) Then \.- CUT TONGUE
TO LENGTH
/
adjust the fence to reave a
l/a'-long tongue.

Now cut a dado in the

USE FRONT AS
drawer side to accept A GAUGE TO
the tongue. Use the drawer
front as a gauge. Raise the
rosmoN FENCE

SET BLADE
A
•
blade to a height equal to AGAJNST INSIDE
SHOULDER __
the length of the tongue. OUTSIDE
h FACE UP ---,.
Then push the end of the
side piece against the fence I \.
and cut the dado.
ClIT GROOVE IN
SIDE TO FIT TONGUE "•
20 SHAKER PROJECTS
By simply shortening the length, the half table becomes a lamp table with a single drawer. And because
construction is so similar, it's easy to build this companion piece at the same time as the half table.

l II )

The lamp table is buill the same as the

hall table. However. some pieces are
cut shorter ami there are fewer of other
pieces (sec the Materials Usl below) .
• '111C back apron (B) and front rails (D)
arc each cut to a finished length of 19W ' , '
Wig. 1). 'lllC front center (F) is not
needed iJl the front apron assembly. ..... 1'~!---
I I ), i
It
Cut only one drawer guide (G), two
,I I
~
lop mounts (II), and two drawer run-
ners (1). Cut rabbets at each end of ,Ill
these pieces as was dOlle for the hall I J
Lablc. Also cut the g-roove for the guide
pin in the drawer runner. II
en
I II
111(' table lop is cui to a finished
1cnRihof24ljz" (Fig. f).
I
II
With only one drawer, you'll need just
one drawer front (K), two drawer sides
(I.), one drawer ba<:k (M) and Olle I
I I
nrawer bottom (N). The drawer uses
the loded rabbet joint and is assem-
bled the same as the drawers for the
hall table.
After the drawer is assembled, mount J u k, II
- -Ij-_
a single knob ccntere(J on the face of
the drawer front (Fi.q.l).
When assembling the table. the top
LAMP TABLE I
I
L;
I --

Olounts (H) sel against the inside edges

oflhe legs (fop Vicw in fo'ig. 1).

~
".
l.c-- 19\1, -~ MATERIALS LIST

.. 24'1,·
.. __.
--~
W-.......-

L'®8~~~~:ON
~

H~
CHANGED PARTS
B 8ackApron(l)
D Front Rails (2)
¥4xS-h-19V,
-0/4 xl - 19'1l
+ J Top(1l %x141fl-24%

I II /~ I ..' 2'1."C
, I " - ... 2'1......-
.
Note: Only neE'd 1 each of parts G, K, M, N.
Only need 2 each of parts H, I. l.

~
I
, Do not ne<!d part F.
c;y- ~FRONT RAILS I
''"..
•
,I FRONT HARDWARE SUPPLIES
CENJKNOB 24\1,"-- + (Note change in qU<lnlitics)
ON DRAWER fRONT (1) No.6 x )/." Rh woodo;crews
;0
0- (It) No.8 xlV.' Rh woodscrews

I •
I
0 (4) "lIb' flilt washers
(10) %' brads
I (2) '¥s" brads
U'h'
(1) 1"-dia.cherry knob w/screw

I 0 .
L- FRONT ElEVATION I. II TOP VIEW II
0

SHAKER HALL TA.BLE 21

~ DO@
hen it was time to cut the tapers
on the hall table legs, I was
stumped at first It was easy to make a
jig to set the angle for the cut..'> on the
first two sides of the legs. But then I'd
have to take those angles into consider-
ation when tapering the other two sides.
_-=G:.-P:::LA 0 exadly where the tapcrwill be cut.
The jig r came up with is a sliding plat-
form for the table saw. 'Inc greatIcature
of this jig is that all you have 1.0 do is
rotate the leg to taper the next side. The
way the jig does this has to do with the
centerpoint on the end of the leg. (More
on how this works in a bil.)
For now. just mark the centerpoint
all the bottom of the leg. To do this.
draw lines on the bottom oCthe leg, con-
necting opposite corners (Step 1). At
the point where the lines cross, drill a
IN-dia. hole with a brad point bit and
push in a l/t-dia. dowel.
PLATFORM. To build ihe jig, start
with a piece of 314" plywood about 9"
wide for the platform (A). Cut it to a
length of31 '1 (Step 2).
RUNNER. Next, cut a groove in the
bottom of the platform and add a hard-
wood runner (ll) that will.fit your miter
22 SHAKER PROJECTS
Leg Tapering Jig
gauge slot (Step 2). To determine the
location of the groove, measure from
your saw blade to the miter gauge slot
and add 1". Cut the groove, then glue
and screw the runner in place.
Finally, place the runner in the slot of
the saw and trim off one edge of the
platform (Step .7). This edge shows you
The jig- has two fences that help align
the leg for each cut.
When a leg is mounted to the jig, the
dowcl slides into a hole in the rear fence
(Step 5). After one side is tapered, the
leg is rotated 90" to cut the next side.
The dowel realigns the piece on the
edge of the jig. But one of the problems
I had was getting the hole in the fence in
exactly the right position. Then 1discov-
ered a trick - actually two tricks.
REAR fENCE. First, cut the rear fence
(C) to a width (height) to match the
thickness of the leg. Then draw an "X"
on the fence to match the pattern on the
end of the leg (Detail ill Step.4). Drill a
114" hole aL the crosspoint.
The second trick has to do with
mounting the fence to the platform. In
order to ~et a 1/4" taper on each side of
the leg, the crosspoint on the rear fcncc
has to be III closer to the path of the
blade. So all you do is shirt the whole
rear fence so it extends IN' over the
edge of the platform (Step .4).
SIDE fENCE. A side fence (D)
mounted on the platform helps hold the
lop end of the leg. To position this
fence, place the leg on the platfonn with
the dowel mounted in the rear fence
(Step 5). Then position the taper start
line (near the top end of the leg) on the
edge oflhe platform (Step 6). Now draw
a line along the back edge of the leg to
indicate the position of the side fence.
TIltn screw the fcnce in place (Step 7).
HOLD-DOWN. To complete the jig,
add a hold-down clamp. You can make
this Wilh a few scraps of wood (E, F)
(Step 8). However, 1 like the ease of
using a quick-release clamp as shown in
the photo. (See Sources, page 126.)
To cut the taj>el"S on the leg, mount the
leg on the platform and push it Lhrough
Lhe blade (Step 9). TIlen simply loosen
the clamp, rotate the leg, and cut the
next side.
 CONNECT
CORNERS
HARDWOOD RUNNER ®-
DRIU Y.o" WITH X MEASURE F R O M » SET GUIDE RUNNER
KOlE FOR \ '1:~~;;"J IN SLOT AND
OOVVEl PEG
'- --_.•
..
"-- _ SAW BlADE TO SLOT
ANOAOO'"
I
I.
31
.--::

32
CUT OFF WASTE

t~;"ro
';:~G
a. WTTO

~
FIT MrrER
GAUGE SLOT

I --! j-
CV~ __-.-
~
WPLYWOOD
PLATFORM

To find the center of the bottom of the Use 3/4 " plywood for the platform. Cut Put the runner in the miter gauge slot
leg, conned the opposite comers with a 1/4 "-deep groove in the bottom to 3 and trim the side of the platform. This
an "X". Drill a 112 "-deep hole at this point hold iJ hardwood runner that fits your gives you a reference edge that shows
and insert a %" length ofdowef. miter gauge slot exactly where the blade cuts.

A~ MARK START LINE

INSERT DOWEL OF TAPER ON lfG
INTO FENCE HOLE
\

THIRD:
MARK LINE ON
... BACK EDGE FOR

a. r-l~--j "'~'O~ Q;,ENCE

f
'"
1--=.::..="'.:1"'_..,,,,,,1
USE SAME ·X· PAlTERN
END OF FENCE --' ON END OF LEG SECOND: ALIGN START LINE
10-, OVERHANGS AND FACE OF FENCE WITH EDGE OF PLATFORM
PlATFORM 14"

A rear fence the same width as the leg To position the side fence, first insert Next, mark the taper start line on the
overhangs the edge 1/4 ". Make an "X" the dowel in the leg into the hole in leg. Then place this line on the jig's
on the end to match the 'X' on the leg. the rear fence. (The dowel is trimmed off edge. Mark the location of the leg'S back
Dri" a 1/4 "-dia. hole at the crosspoint. later to fill the hole in the leg.) edge onto the platform.

1i8x2¥.."
Fh SCREW
r
118 x lW '-... IF USING A
fh QUICK·RELEASE
SCREW CLAMP; SCREW
TO SIDE FENCE

~~~®
.~-
(!) .~
~.

7 The side fence is shorter than the leg Use scrap to make a simple hold- To cut tapers, position leg on the jig
thickness. Align it vlith the line and down clamp. Tightening the wing nut and push the platform past the blade.
screw it in place. Add a carriage bolt for a applies pressure. (If a quick-release clamp Rotate the leg one-quarter turn to make
shop-made hold-down (next step). is used, the fence should be 1112· wide.) next cut Then repeat for other tvvo cuts.

SHAKER HAll TABLE 23


sually, you think of using a
jointer to goet a straight edge
from one end of a workpiece to
the other. But how about using
the jointer to cut tapers? After alL
a taper is a straight f'c1gt>.It'sjust
that it doesn't run the ful11f'llgth
of the piece.
Another reason the jointer is
an ideal tool for cutting tapers is
that the jointer produces a clean,
crisp cut that needs little (if any)
sanding. And unlike a table :;aw,
tapering on the jointer doesn't
require any special jigs or compli-
cated layouts. All you need is
some masking tape and a pencil.
When Lutling a long taper, like on the
hall table, you don't taper the entire leg.
Instead, there's a nat at the top where
the leg is joined to the apron.
Note: Complete any joinery on the
leg before it's tapered.
LOWER WORKPIECE. The basic idea
behind tapering on thejoillter is simple.
Instead of starting the cut at the end of
the workpiece, it's liftc(1 up and the flat
portion of the leg is pushed forward,
past the cUllerhead. TIlcn the le,g is low-
ered onto the clltterhead to start the
tRper. The lrick is knowing where to
lower the workpiece to start the cut.
REFERENCE LINES. To do [his, I make
two reference lines. One marks the
start of the taper on the leg (Step t).
The other line indicates the front edge
MARK START1NG POINT OF
TAPERS ON ALL FOUR SIDES
Lay Out Tapers. Usin.Q a try square, lay
out the starting point of the tapers
around all four Sides of the leg.
24 SHAKER PROJECTS
• • • Tapering on the Jointer
of the jointer's outfccd table (St(;!J! 2).
When the two marks align, the work-
piece is lowered onto the jointer.
SNIPE. Si.nce the workpk'Cc is coming
down at an angle. the knives will create
a dishc{1 cuI (snipe) at the beginning of
the cut. To prevent Ihis, I wrap two
laycrs of masking tape around the leg
(Stpp ,1). This raises Ihe workpiece
above the cutterhead just enough to
produce a smooth cut.
Another thing to keep in mind is the
depth of Cllt. This determines how
many passes over the jointer you'll have
to make to get the finished taper.
To plan the cut, start with the
~ ,.
,
,,
"
\
DRAW LINE TO
'"
FRONT EDGE OF
OVTFEED
".~
Mark Outfeed Tab/e. Now make a
pencil mark on the jointer fence to indi-
cate the tront ot the outfeed table.
amounl of taper you want at the
em] of the leg amI divide it by the
depth of cut. For example, if your
jointer is set ror a 1/16 1' cut, four
passes will Cilt a IN' laper.
But in practice, to allow for a
cleanup pass, I adjust the illrced
table so the cut is a hair (1/64 '1)
less. To do this, measure the j,!ap
between the infced table and a
straig-ht stick laid across the out-
feed table (see photn below).
CUTTERGUARD. Before making
your first (,;ut, it's a good idea to
get a feel for opening the cutter-
guard with a workpiece. This
takes some practice - with the
jointer turned o(f. What I've found
works best is to slightly raise the
end of the workpiece off the table
and usc it to nudge the cutlerguard
open (Skp4).
With the sclup complete, it's time to
make some test culs before moving on
to the real leg pieces.
Measuring the
Depth of Cut.
Place a s!raighl
piece ofscrap on
the jointer's au!-
feed table. Then
measure the gap
between it and
tho infoed table.
AUGN EDGE OF
TAPE WITH UNE
Add Tape. To prevent the jointer knives
from making a "dished" cut, wrap two
layers of masking tape around the leg.
 TEST CUT. Once you get the feel of FIRST: SECOND:
OPEN CUTTERGUARD SLIDE LEG FORWARD so
opening the cutterguard, check the IN1TH END OF LEG REFERENCE MARKS AUGN
setup by making- a t.est cut. You should
not have any snipe at the start or end of
the cut.
Safety Note: Be sure to hook a push
block over the end of the leg when you
make the cut.
CUT TAPER. Now you're rcady to
taper t.he actual workpiece. Depending
on the deplh of
cut, you'll need
to make several
passes on each
side (Step 5).
And since it call
be easy to lose
track of the cut-
ting sequence, Position Leg. With the leg against the fence, raise the end slightly above the table.
r jusl label th{~ Now nudge the cutter guard open with the end of the leg and slide the workpiece
cutting order right on the masking tal-Ie forvvard until the reference mark on the leg aligns with the mark on the fence.
(see photo above).
When it's Lime to taper the fourth SECOND:
HOOK PUSH BLOCK
side of the leg-, you'll have a tapered face OVER END Of LEG AND
COMPlETE CUT _o'Q',.tv
a.
facing the fence of t.he jointer. If you
press this face against the fence, the ALIGN BACK EDGE
start of the taper will be angled. To pre- OF TAPE WITH MARK
ON FENCE
vent this, press the untapered top of the
leg against the fence during the cut. !
'Illis will leave a ,gap between the
tapered face and the fence. FIRST:
CLEANUP PASS. After the taper is cut LOWER LEG ONTO
CUTTERHEAD
on each side, all that's left to com-
plete the job is to
make one cleanup
pass on each side.
The goal is Lo take as
light a pass as pos- Begin Cut. When the back edge of the tape aligns with the mark on the fence,
sible, yet still cut the lower the leg down onto the cutrerhead. Then hook a push block over the end of
taper right up to the the leg and complete the cut.
layout. line.
To do this, remove SECOND:
the tape and raise the MAKE FULl·LENGTH a.
PASS WITH LEG RIDING
infeed table until the ON TAPERED SIDE
knives just graze the
line at the start of the
""'"
RAISE INFEED TABLE
so KNIVES SKIM
LAYOUT LINE
taper (Step (H[).
Finally, instead of
lowering the work-
piece ont.o the CllUer-
head, make a full- INFEED
length pass with the TABLE
leg riding on the
ta!>crcd side (Step 6).

Cleanup Pass. After the taper is cut, remove the tape. Then center the layout fine
on the workpiece across the opening in the jointer table. After raising the infeed
table until the knives just graze the line, make a full-length pass.

SHAKER HALL TABLE 25

Rocking Chair
While the heritage ofthis chair is distinctly Shaker, it's been updated with some modern techniques.
And there's also one very old technique that may be new to you - weaving the seat andback.

his rocker looks just like an old-

fashioned Shaker rocker. But
while some of the clean lines and
graceful curves are borrowed from the
Shaker '"classic," some changes were
made to the design.
DOWELS. For onc thing, Shaker
rockers included legs that were tapered
and often ~ven a slight bend. But you
don't need a lathe or a steam box to
build this chair. The legs and the rails
that connect lhem arc made from
straight dowels that arc 1112", 1'" and %~
in diameter.
SQUARE STOCK. But where do you
find 1W''"!I.ia. dowels - especially ones
over 42" long? 111e solution is simple.
You can make the dowels yourself. If
you don't have a lathe. you can make
the dowels wilh a rouler table and a few
roundover bils. TIle technique is
straightforward. Onere's a separale
article on making dowels on page 37.)
There was even <In unexpected ben-
efit to Lhis. TIle chair requires two sets
of holes along each leg. And because
the seat is tapered fronL to back, these
holes aren't 90" LO each other. Working
with store-bought dowels would have
required a special holding jig. But wilh
our method, the holes could be drilled
in the square maple blanks before they
were "turned" into dowels.
WEAVING. The woven seal is anolher
common feature on Shaker rockers.
And here I pretty much stuck to tradi-
Lion - except [or the stuffing between
the two layers of webbing. I used a 1"-
foam pad instead of what the Shakers
used - horse hair. Other than that. the
technique is the same. It's all explained
beginning on page 40. Plus there are
some alternate patterns you can weave
into the chair back. These are shown in
the Designer's Notebook on page 42.
FOOTSTOOL. We've also designed a
footstool to go with the rocker. It uses
many of the same techniques. Thal pro--
jed. begins on page 43.

26 SHAKER PROJECTS
EXPLODED VIEW
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
253!sW X32lflD x 43'hH
BACKREST RAIL

i @,
'i
1
I

BACKREST BACK LEG

POST
®
©

AAM
) ~
©~

W·DlA PWG
#8 x 2"
Fh \rVOOOSCREW

~!
r ~~ [)()I,oVEL PINS
FRONT LEG
(jJ

I
UPPER
SIDE
/WC
ep
_/

@"
UPPER
FRONT RAIL

®
COWER I
FRONT RAIL
1 ROCKER

ROCKING (HAIR 27
 E
E
CVTTlNG DIAGRAM E
l-w, 111Y.l- 60 liARD MAf\.E (6.25 BO. FTJ
E

">7~
,WAm

lfG~
r<:ill-~-
fl,
ARE AN
EXTRA S' LONG
FOR ROUNDING
1--....,..'1
~­, _
!f''.. : HARE> ~ (2.6 BO. FT.)
E
E
OVER EDGES
E I E
~. x 4 - 60 HARD MAPlE (1.7 80. FTJ

"oW.
'--- I " ;,
BAO<
"G
"""
@
y, x 5 - 36 HARD MAPlE (TWO BOARDS 0 1.25 SQ. FT. EACH)

NO'"
"
AU. ><OLE,
"""-"0
'" DEEP
1222Z22222Z2222222;:22222222Z'2ZZ2'Z22~
WOOD
A 3ad.legs (2) l1fz x 48 rgh.
B ~ronl Legs (2) l h x 26112 fgll.
'
I C aad:re!>l Posts (2) 1 x 19V1 fgh.
o 8adr.restR;lik(2) 1 K23'hrgh.
I, E Upper Back Rail (1) lll23'hrgh.
~BlANKS F Lower Back Rails (2) 1f~ x :2.3112 fgh.
FRONT ""AN G IJppprFronlRa"l(l) 1 x77Yzrgh.
EXTRA S' LONG

" (~ FOIl ROUNDING

OVER EDGES
H
I
Lower rronl RiI.1s (2) 3(. ll27'h fgh.
Upper Side Ralls (2) 1 x 23V? rgh.
, NOno
J lower Side Rails (4) .% xl3'!, fgh
K CapRail(1) 1'1<)(21'/2
\ ALL HOLES
DRILLED 1"
DEEP
4o\"·OIA.
l
M
Arms(2)
Rockers (2)
3f4 x5-20
'/1 x 5 - 33

HARDWARE SUPPLIES
(2) \10. 8 x 2' Fh woodscrews
4 (2) Jf~. -dia. flathead wood plugs
4 (1) lf1& "-dia. dowel 6" long
(1) lfrdia. dowel 6" long
(80 yds.) (otton Shaker tape
(a) 112· -long upholstery lacks
4
4
. I~
4 (l) I·-thick foam pad lax 20
(l) 1··thiCk foam pad 12x23

,
~
TOP """"" YEW
4
'" AHGU'O
""'-'5
I'
.{! ~-EJ-_A_J-¢-
® ' t<,. .-- _

~ACE ""T
,_/ V
90'""'-'5 ~
HOlDS __ A __ \

~ -y_.$
'ACE ~,
- SlOE
rnAT
HOlDS
FRONT--......
"'''5 fRONT
LEG _
"
'. ~ ~~ •
,
- • .1
'
'-"LS WAm ® ,.
" /VIIGLED HOLES

28 SHAKER PROJECTS
 AUK
FENCE '" ~~~2====-~
FOR5TNER

~:-
----RE
a,
~··RADIUS
ROUND--
OVER BIT
FORSTNER
"---~
AUX.
FENCE
_J
'"
FRONT
FACE
leG
®® fROM"
,, WEDGE
&h"
""'"
"'" MORE
ON MAKING
'- ,
FACE
DOWELS, SEE
PAGE 37
'-
WEDGE

END SECTION VIEW STOP CUT ABOUT 2'

SHORT OF BOTH ENDS

leG
®® NOTE;
__'::-1-.1/' SHOULDER
SOUAAE
'0/:
.--< Of NOTCH
VIIITH CHISEL
To build the rocker, I began with the
four square JeR' blanks. It may seem a
bit odd to start 0[[ with square blanks
when the legs are going 10 end up as
dowels - but that's exaclly how this
project begins.
CUTTO SIZE. Firstcul four leg blanks
I1f2'l thick and Ilh"wide. Then the back
legS (A) and front legs (B) can be cut to
rough length - r sized mine an extra 5"
longer than the linished length of the
legs. (llIi::; may seem plenty long, but
the exIra length is needed when you
round over the blanks to make dowels.)
LAY OUT BLANKS. 'l11e next step is to
carefully lay oul the finished length and
the holes on the blanks (Fig.~. .1 and,z).
Also, note that the positions for the CUT NOTCHES. Now before cutting
side rail holes on the front and back legs the dowels to final length, I cut the W'-
are not the same. The holes in the back wide notches for the rockers on the
legs arc 1W' closer to the bottom end. bottom of eaeh leg (Pig. 6). I used a
Later, when the chair is assembled with band saw ror this, cleaning up the top
the rockers, this offset helps Ihe chair shoulder with a sharp chisel.
tip back at a comfortable aJlgle. CUT TO LENGTH. Finally. thc legs are
The last things to layout arc the ready t.o be cut to final length Wigs. 1
notches for the rockers (FillS. 1 (/Ild 2). and J). Cut carefully to the layout lines
I drew them on both faces of the legs to (though you may need to Jay them out
help me keep things oriented. again since you've routed the edges).
DRILL HOLES. With the legs
laid out, the next slep is to
drill the holes. First I drilled
all the' goo holes for the side
rails. Just keep in mind that ----
there are two hole sizes. The
holes for the upper side rails ,
are YI" in diameter (FifJH. 1 TENON WITH
awl J). 'Il](~ lower rails ROUNDED
SHOULDER
rCQuire %"-<.Iia. holcs.
TIlC holes for the front and
batk rails are a little different. SQUARE·
'Iney're drilled ata 6l h o angle SHOULDERED
..-- TENON NOTE:
(Fill. .1). To do this. I just cut a FOR MORE
ON ROUTING
wedge from some scrap to set DECORATlVE
TENONS
ONOOWELS,
the blank on (Fill. -&). PROFILE SEE PAGE 31
To avoid clrilling these -j
angled holes in the wrong --~
direction, I marked the front ------------
face of each leg. Then make
------------- I

~~. ~
First, I measured up 2lf2" from the end sure this face Scls against the
of c:lch blank to mark whal will be the fcnce as you drill.
bottom edge. Then measuring frolll this Note: Each back kg
mark, I laid out the top end of cach leg. needs two ad(litional %"-dia.
Next, mark the position of the holes angled holes for the backrest

l~ """'~
for the rails. 'nIcre arc a couple things rails (Fig. 7).
to keep in mind when doing this. ROUND OVER EDGES. Wilh
For one thing. you don't layout the
front (or back) legs exactly the same-
the holes drilled, the next
step is to usc a:lJl roundover
BOTTOM OF
EACH LEG
/' /
~OTE: ALL
FOUR LEG
they're mirror images of each other bit in the rouler table to turn <6W ~~~IJ~ ARE ,~~JlnOfl~
(Fig. 3). r found it helped prevent confu- the square blan ks into dowels
sion if I labeled the enrl of each leg with (Fi!!. ,.I). for more informa- NOTCHES
its position on the chair (front left, front tion on how to do this. see lht' FOR ROCKERS--
right, back left. back right). Technique box on page 37.

ROCKING CHAIR 29
iii AUX.
FENCF
TOP VIEW

y'!"-DIA.
STRAIGHT BIT
1-- -'""---1
'-

SAFETY NOTE: ADD

SECONO SUI'PQffr BLOCK
FOR LONG PROFILE ROLmNG

a. ,'¥E,O SIDE VIEW NOTE:

AUX. j 1.1" "" - - - -•• 1 SUPPORT BLOCKS REMOVEO

.
FENCE AUX " fOR ClARITY
FENCE

®
I \
----- '
FRONT I.£G

CREATE TENONS. 'Ibe only thing left
on the le~"S is to shape the ends (refer to
Fig. 7 on the previous page). The top or
each leg gets a round tenon. But they're
not the same size or shape.
On the top of the kontlegs (R), a
square-shouldered tenon provides solid
support for the arms later. To do this, I
used a straight bit to rout a %"-dia.
tenon 9/16" long (Fig. 8). (For more on
routing tenons on dowels, see the
Technique box on the opposite pa,qe.)
The back leg-s (A) also have a tenon
on the top that's created with the same
routing technique. But this time, Lhe 11'_
diameter, \l!4"-lonj.{ tenon has a round
shoulder thal's created with a lf2"-dia.
core box bit (Pig. 9).
ROUT PROFILE. I also decided to
"lighten" the lOp of the from leg (B)
with a decorative profile. Thi~ 1 1N-long
prolile is crealed just like the tenon Oil
each back leg (Fig. 10). But this time,
the cut is shallower (only l/S").
Safety Note: Since this profile is so
long, I added a second support board to
the table. This kept my fingers a safe
disL1nce from the bit (Fig. 10).
TAPER LEGS. To complete the legs, all
that's left is to soften lhe bottom end oJ
each. '[his is easy to do with a file and a
lillie sandpaper. (For more on lhis, see
the Shop Tip below.)

• " • • • • • • • 0 • • ....... Shaping Leg Bottoms

To keep the legs of the
rocking chair from looking
too square and bulky, I
shaped the bottom of
each leg, see photo. The
shape of the legs is really a
cross between a taper and
a roundover. It's more like
a "contoured taper."
In addition to improving
the way the legs look, the leg (see detail" a" in out lhe material between
tapers serve another pur- drawing). To mark this the two layout lines.
pose - they help to pre- point, I used a pencil and a Note: The layout lines
vent the bottoms of the combination square to are a guide only - YOU'll
legs from splintering. draw a line arouna each still have to use your" eye"
Although the tapers are leg 1· from the end. to refine the leg's shape.
shaped by hand, I found it To shape the ends of the After you've got the leg
helpful to draw some legs, first clamp the leg in roughly shaped with the
layout lines on each leg. To a vise to hold it securely. file, sand the profile
start with, I laid out the Then use a file to rough smooth and round.
narrow end of
the taper on
the bottom of a. SIDE
v,a.
each leg. To do
this. I simply
traced around
,. ... 1
1
a twenty-five somN
cenl piece. , EDGES
OF LEG
Each taper
starts about an
SHAPE END OF
LEG WITH
RASP OR FILE '-
inch from the
bottom of the

30 SHAKER PROJECTS
 .. Tenons on Dowels
tltting tenons on dowels is easy on a
router table. And by using different
bit..;;, you can cut two kinds of tenons.
Using a straight bit, you can cut square-
shouldered tenons Oett photo), and by
using a core box bit, you can cut round-
shouldered tenons (right photo).
On the rocking chair, almost all of
the tenons have round shoulders. The
only place you need square-shouldered
tenons is on the tops of the front legs to
help suppon the arms (Fif!. 1).
The difference between these two
types is more than skin deep. A square-
shouldered tenon is like a traditional
tenon in that its shoulr/Rr-to-end dimen-
sion is important. On the other hand,
the round-shouldered tenon is more
decorative. The tenon actually bottoms
out in the mortise, so what's important You'\l need to sneak up on the final
is its overalllcngth. This also means bit height, testing the fit of the tenon in W I . Ii9
the tenon must be longer than the depth the mortise. I like to leave {he tenon just
of the mortise. (On the rocker, for slightly oversize. Then it can be sanded 'i'
example, 1cui I 1N '-long tenons for the (or an exact fit (Fig. 3a).
]II-(leep mortises.) TECHNIQUE. To raul a tenon, first
USE
SAME
TECHN&UE
I,'
I;:" ,
~ ARM RESTS
hold the dowel against the support TO RO ON SQUARE·
PROFILE
block, then push it into the bit until it ON FRONT
CEG
,", SHOULDERED
TENON
butts into the auxiliary fence (rig. '2).
The tenons are cut by pushing the enn Now form the shoulder of the tenon by L_~' ,
ofthe dowel into the bit. rotating- the dowel clockwise. Then '"
SETUP. The dowel is ~'l1ided by a sup- back Ihe dowel oul. i~
port block clamped to the table (li'ig. 2). Next, remove the waste around the Ii!, AU OTHER
When posil.ioning the support block, tenon in small bites (Fig. 3). Simply TENONS ARE

make sure the dowel is ccntered over push the dowel into the bit and pull it I'" ROUND-SHOULDERED
' I.--~
the bit (Fig. 211). straight out. Then rotate the dowel
Note: You'll have to reposition the slightly and repeat this procedure until
support block when routing dowels of the tenon is formed.
,: I. J.. -
103 ~
different diameters. Tbis same procedure (with a second
An auxiliary fence covering the support block added) is used to cut the 1 u"",
router renee opening serves as a stop profile on the tops of the front legs IWL

block to sctthe tenon's length Wig.2a). (refer to Fig. 9 on previous pag-e).

[I

a. NOTE:TOMEASURE TENON PUSH DOWEL

OUTSIDE OF BIT IN AND oUl
THEN ROTA,~
// .......'~ AND REPEAT
AUX.
N"'" FE""
ClAM'
SUPPORT
BCOCK
//
/
TOTABLE

AUXIUARY a. SIZE TENON

fl:NCE COVERS ~ b. CENTER SUGffTLY OVERSIZE.
THEN SAND TO FIT
ROUTER FENCE ~ SUPPORT OOWR
OPENING
TO CUT SHOULDER.
ROCK ON BIT
/-:
PLUNGE DOWEL IN "
\'%2:J/
·L
AND ROTATE
CLOCKWISE

ROCKING CHAIR 31
 IR
Kow that the legs arc complete, it's time
to connect lhem with the chair rails and
the backrest. TIle backrest will be sand-
wiched belWeen the back legs. And
below that, on each of the four sides of
the chair, there's a 1"-<!ia. upper rail that
the cotton webbing wraps around and
two 3/4"-dia. lower rails.
Though there are a lot of pieces
here, the most efficient method is to
make tbem all at the same time. That's
because they all share many of the
same techniques and setups.
CUT TO SIZE. Uke the legs. r made all
!.he backrest poslS (C) and rails (0) and
the back rails (E. F), front rails (G, H),
and side rails (1,1) out of SQuare blanks.
The diameters and final lengths of all
these pieces are given in Fig. 11.
DRIll BACKREST HOLES. Of the six-
teen square blanks you juse cuI, only the
two backrest rails (0) require holes.
These have a 3!."-dia. hole drilled 'h't.
deep and 3V16" (rom each finished end
(Fiy. 1.'1). (Layout the ends of the
pieces first and then locate tl1C holes.)
ROUND OVER EDGES. With these
holes drilled in Ihe backr('si rails, you
can round over the edl!es of all the
pieces. 'Ibis is the same process used
on the leg blanks earlier. '111e only dif-
ference is the si7..e of the roundover bils.
For the 3/~"_dia. dowels, you'll need a
%"-radius bit, while the 1" dowels
require a l/Z"-radius biL
CUT TO LENGTH. After all the piet.."Cs
have been routed, they can be cut to fin-
ished length. You'll want to pay special
attention to the backrest rails. lbey
should be cut so the holes you just
drilled in them are equally spaced from
the ends (Fig. 12).
The others can simply be cut 10 fin-
ished length. However. because the
tenons on these pieces will bottom out
in the mortises, it's important that the
rails on each side of the chair are
exactly the same lenl"rth. To do this, I
used a stop block damped to an auxil,
iary miter gauge fcnce.
CUT TENONS. After the pieces have
been cut ,md sanded smooth, the next
thing to do is roullJ1C round-shouldered
lenons on the ends (Fig;;. 11 and 14).
'Inc only trick is cutting the corre<:t-si7..e
tenons on each piece.
I startt.-'d with the %M-long tenons on
the backrest posts (C). Set the core box
bit to rout a 3/~~ -dia. tenon. (Mine was
lJs~ high,) But again for a good fit, sneak
up on the height of the rouler biL
Next, I cuI the 3/4"-dia lcnons on the
other 1~ dowels (backrest rails D and
upper rails E, G, and l).lhc height of
the bit should be the samc {but lest it to
make sure}. However, you will need to
adjust the fence so the tenons end up
JI/.r-lollR (Fig. Ha).
Finally, the tenons on the 3/4"-<Iia.
pieces (the lower ..ills 1'~ II, and can n
be routed. You'll need to lower the bit so
it leaves a 5At-dia. tenon. (My bit was
I!/{ high,)
Knte: With the bit lower. you may
nl.'Cd to reposition the fence sliRhtly 10
end up with 1'/,"-lonl! tenons.

NOTE: ALL PlEaS START AS

SQUARE 8lANKS AA EXTRA S"LONG

© BACXfI.EST POST (MAKE TWO) @

~"-PlA.. TENON. ~"lONG BACKREST

P_[=====~j'~·-D\A.~~00WE~~'~~·~=~=~P3
24Y. • !
IWl

\...
@BA()(RESTRAIL(MAKETWO)
¥.r."·DIA TENON, 114" LONG
CL...i:;l.r=~;::~~,·j.O~'A.EQOOWEQiijgl==~GJ;L:=::J ©
I 1----" -- -I
8A()(REST
POST
I
~UPPER 8ACK RAIL I
,-_.- 24';]

o c=='~'~-O~<A~·~TE~N~O~N.~,~,~.l~O~NG~==
1'-o~~DOWEL ~I I
Ir- ~',""RBAO<
®

--
@ UPPER
IWl (MAKE
*'.D!A. TENON. l}(,'lONG
'WJ' ' UPPER
FRONT
BAO<
RAIL -1-'1:<:(:'-
RAIL .... _"'"
OOWE .~ .
\

o
@UPl'ERfRONT RAIL
¥.r."-DIA. TENON, 114"\ONG
l' -tlIA tlO'M'l o
----j
-- .--- l
® LOWER
l2lI
fRONT RAIL CMAKE l'NO)
•
-'
---
\\" OIA. TENON, Oi" LONG

(!)UPPER SIDE RAIL (MAKE TWO)

*'-P!A. TENON. 1\6." lONG

,.,.
1"-PIA. [X)NEl

•
QJ"""" "" RAn. (MAKE fOCO)
*"-DIA. TENON,. lYo"lONG

32 SHAKER PROJECTS
 a. SIDE
With all tht' tenons routed, the chair @ W·OlA ... / secnON VIEW
frame is ready to be assemb1cl.!. FORSTNER BIT
BACKREST
SUB·ASSEMBLIES. lllC first thing I did '''C~ .. - ¥.o"-OIA.
FORSTNER
was to assemble the front and back sub- WAm B~~
assemblies (Fig. 12). As with any
assembly, your goal is to get them flat
and square. But because you're
@
working with dowels here, you can't
approach them in thc usual way.
I used clamps to pull each sub-
assembly together (Fig. 16). Then I
measured the width at the top and AUK FENCE
bottom of the legs. This will tell you if a. SIDE VIEW
the legs are parallel or not. Then I NOTE: BACKREST
removed the clamps and set the assem- POST TENONS AR",'C--_~ .
• SUPPORT BLOCK
~

blies on a fiat surface. If they were

WLONG(- ,
.~

1',"-OlA UPPER
twisted, I flattened them ouL fWC
'-<---"-. CORE 0/4
SIDE RAllS. When the glue is dry on
both sub-assemblies, they can be joined
BOX BIT
L •
with the side rails (Fig. Ul). The key
here is to make sure the notches for the
rockers line up. So I created two tempo-
rary alignment pieces that were llz".
thick ami had a ]11211 offset. Then I
placed them in the notches at the
bottom of the legs while the chair was - - - - - 211', ...,

~4;)-:::::q,
being assembled.
CAP RAIL. The last dowel to add is the a.
cap rail (K) that fils over the lop of the I" -01A. HOLE, CAP RAIL 1
back legs (Fig. 1;)).1 saved this rail unLil I 1" DEEP ROUT\'s"
\ CHAMFER
now because ifs a different diameter
than the other rails (J l/l). Also, ] ®
wanted to drill the holes to fit the tenons
on the lops of the legs (Fig. loa). ,.
CHAMFER
After the cap rail was rounded and
cut to ftnallenglh (21 W'). I routed a W'
chamfer on both ends of the piece. This
is the same technique used Lo create the
tenons on Lhe other rails, except you
use a chamfer bit and the piece stops JOIN FRONTIlIACK
ASSEMBUES WITH
against the bearing on the bit. After the SIDE RAILS ~ UPPER
SIDE

~-
chamfers are routed, the cap rail can be fWC
glued onto the back legs.
j
o
LOIrVl'R
SIDE
fW~

o
)

)
ALIGNMENT
NOTf: PIECES KEEP
AFTER PUUlNG NOTCHES IN LINE
JOINTS TOGETHER
REMOVE CLAMPS AND CHECK
ASSEMBUES ON A FLAT SURFACE

ROCKING CHAIR 33
 JIKlTE: GRID
PATIEflN SHOWN
At this point, all that's left to bp adder! BELOW
are the arms and rockers. I saved the
rockcrs for l<lst so the chair woulr!n'\
rock while I was Lrying to acid the arms. ,
CUT TO SHAPE. The arms (L) start ©
out as a pair of 3/.t-thick blanks (5 T' x ARM
20"). 'l11C first thing I did was to draw SIDE
SECTION
the shape of the arm on the blanks, see Vl'"
pattern below. (Note: Full-size patterns
are available. See Sources on page 126.)
Bt'iore cutting the arms 10 shape, J
drilled a %"-dia. hole 9/16I'-deep 011 the
• !: I ~
bottom face for lhe LenOIl on each front ,r- INSIDE EDGE
leg (Fi,g.17a). Make sure you don't drill
through the top face of the arm. ~"-DIA. DOWEL
Next I used <I band &1W to rough out , ~I'lNSTENON

the arm. Then for most of the arm, I L.J\-""'J~ ©

sanded up to the line with a drum TOP secnON VIEW
sander and finished by hand sanding.
CREATE BEVEl. ReCore aLtaching the
arm Lo the chair, I removed the sharp
inside edge by creating a tapered
chamfer that's W, x IN' at iL.., deepest SPOKESHAVE
point (Fig. 18). To do this, I drew the \.- -- ---
chamfer 011 the top face of the arm
(refer to pattern). And I scribed <l line
IN' down from Lhe top face. Then to do
the chamfering', I llsed a spokeshave
(though you could Ilse a rasp for this).
ATTACH ARM. Now the ann is ready
to be mounted to the chair. This is a
little trickier than it looks. To give the
arm plenty of support, I cut a notch in
each back leg for the arm to rest on. a.

\~~~ON
(For more Oil this, see the Technique
box on (he opposite page.) Then I set
the arm on the Lenon on the front It;g
and sanded it in back until it fit snugly in ) -#8x 2"
thenoteh (Fig. 1.9). W , \ Fh WOQDSCREW
DEEP , AND-!1I" PLUG
After the arm fits in the notch, its out- NOTCH
side edge can be sanded flush with the
leg (Fig. 11)(/). 111en it's pinncd at the
front insidc edge with a 3/lft-dia. dowel '--.'m~_-<..'--.TO CUT NOTCH.
SEE PAGE 3S SAND SIDE
(Fig. 17b). And in the back, the arlll is Qf ARM TO
MATCH LEG
secured with a No. 8x 21' Fh woodscrew
Wig. 19a). (The screw is counlerborc{1
and plugged so it won't be visibld

34 SHAKER PROJECTS

didn't want the arms of the
rocker to work loose, (';0 I cut a
notch in each back leg and let in
the ends of the arms. But trying to
layout a square notch on a round
uowel can be tricky.
TEMPLATE. To help layout the
notch accurately, I made a lem-
plate with a shallow arc on one
side. The arc malches the curve
of lhe back leg so that you call
trace the outline of the notch.
To make the template, I
marked ccnl'erlines on a square
block of wood and then drilled a
Iljzl'-dia. hole through the center
Wig. 1). (This block should be
the same thickness as the arms of
the chair.) '1l1cn I cut the block in
two pieces so I had a IN'-deep arc
in one piece (Pig.la).
SPACER BLOCK. To keep the
arms of the chair flat, lhc nOlCh
needs to be positioned at the same
height as the tenon Oll Ult~ fronL leg. To
do this, first I cut a spacer block the
• • • Notching Round Stock
same length as the distance (rom the
upper sidc fail to the shoulder of the
tenon on the front leg Wig. 2).
Then I jusL set the template
against the back leg un top of this
spacer block and traced along the
top and bottom edges to establish
the top and bottom of the notch
(Pigil.2 rmd2a).
LAYOUT. The next step is to lay
out the ends of the notch. To do
this, place a framing square
across both back legs and mea-
sure in half the diameter of the leg
0%" in my case) (Fi{j,~. 3 and ;la).
'Ill is will be the center of the
notch. Make a mark at this point.
Now place the template against
the leg again, lining up the center-
point on the leg with the center-
point on the template. Mark the
ends of the template arc onto the
leg to designate the ends of the
notch (Fif]. 4).
To cut the notches, carefully
saw along the top and bottom
layout lincs with a hand saw (Fig. 5).
Tb(~n chisel out the waste down to the
end lines of the notch (Fif]. 6).

TRACE ALONG
TOP AND DMW
BOTTOM CENTERLINE
EDGES Of FOR ALIGNING
TEMPlATE TEMPLATE

TEMPLA.TE . /

-------- SPACER
'COCK

CUT BLOCK ~
HER'

a. '",
VIEW
a.

MARK CENTERLINE
ON TEMPLA.TE

USE TEMPLATE W SAW ALONG

TOP AND

-,:!
BOTTOM
TO MARK LAYOUT LINES
ENDS OF
NOTCH
M
\ /
"'" ~V'~"'~\
~~~-
~.-ec'-'"
I, --"" ~\ WORK FROM
NOTE: KEEP BOTH SIDES
SAW KERF TO OF NOTCH

J THE WASTE
SIDE OF THE
LAYOUT LINES
TO CHISEL
OUT WASTE

ROCKING CHAIR 3S
Rex.
The rockers arc curved like the arms,
but they're much less work. They're
simply cul to shape from W'-thick stock
and pcgg-cd La the legs.
CUT TO SHAPE. First, I cut two blanks
to rough size (5" x 33'1) and taped them
together with carpet tape. This way, you
only need to draw the pattern on one
blank (see pattern below). Then the
rockers (M) can be cut out at the same
time on the band saw and sanded
smooth with a drum sander.
PEG TO LEGS. Now the rockers can be
attached to the chair. To do this, 1
flipped the chair UPSiilc-down and set
the rockers in the notches, making sure
the legs were centered on the nat spots
on the rocker pieces.
Next, I drilled a 3Js1'-dia. hole 1%"
decp through the outside face of each
leg and through the rockers (Fig. ;eGa).
TItis hole stops short of the inside face
of the leg. (Use a brad point bit to !J:et a
clean hole.) And finally, I pinned the
rocker with a 3N I-dia. dowel.

FINISH &
With the rocker built, there are still two
things left to do: apply the finish and
weave the seat. The round surfaces
make it: difficult to brush on even coats
of finish, so I used a wipe-on oil finish.
After the finish had dried, I noticed a When you are satisfied with the
few runs and rough spots left by dust. finish, you can begin to weave the seat.
These were easily removed with a light Refer to the Technique article that
buffing wilh 0000 stecl wool. begins on page 38. •

•
a. OvrslDE

Ir'n" -.. ,
FACE OF
"G
---)

·llI"-DIA I ! - - " J..-

\.._-'( ,
DOWEL
%
. I
RIDN>" ~,
"'
@
ROCKER
@
-,
SEcnON
"'''~
(J\'PATTERN
""" ~
ROCKER S£E
ABOVE
W-DIA
OOWElPiN

]6 SHAKER PROJECTS
 • • Making Your Own Oowels
M ake your own dowels - why go
through all the work? Well, there
are quite a few reasons. For the rocker
and footstool in this book, I had a hard
time finding ]lh'l-dia. dowels, so
making- them was about my only option.
Plus, J could build these projecl<; out of
any wood I wanted. I wasn't limited to
what was "in stock."
Then while building the rocker. [ ran
into a couple other benefits. The real
trick would have been steadying dowels
while drilling the two sets of holes in
each leg. But by starting with square
stock. laying out and drilling the holes
was a simple procedure.
Safety Note: The technique shown
here will work for lil-dia. and larger LI ----'

dowels. H you try to make smaller

dowels this way, the stock will vibrate Note: One way 10 set the height of end into the bit about 21' from the left
loa much as it passes over the bit. the bit is to place a rule across the end (Fig, 2), Then push the stock to the
opening in the fence and the table. With left. slopping 21' from the opposite end.
p the router unplugged, turn the bit by Now rotale the stock and rout the
hand - the cutting edge at the ends other three sides (Fi,g. 2a), Then cut
TIle first step is getting your stock 1.0 should just "tick" Ihe ruler. the dowel to finished length.
the proper width and thickness. ROUND OVER EDGES. To round the Finally, no matter how carefully you
MAKE SQUARE BLANKS. llcfore you edges, set the right end of the blank set up the bit, you'll still need to sand
can make a dowel, make sure the stock against the renee and pivot the other some small, flat edges.
is square. Both the width and the thick-
ness of the blank should match the fin-
ished diameter of the dowel. So for a a.
1W'-dia. dowel, for example, you'll need
NOTE: CUTIING
a lllzil x I W' blank (Fig. 1). ROUTER EDGE MUST BE
FENCE FLUSH Ifv'ITH FENCE
The olher thing aboul these blanks AND TABLE
is that I don't rout to the ends (Fig. 2).
Otherwise, Ule blank would tend to roll //
as the last edge was being routed. So to 'ROUJo"oVER' n " / /
get the correct dowel len~h and still I I BIT-.... //
keep the ends square, I cut the blanks
5'1 longer than the final dowellengt1J. -·BlANK FOR
l\'/·DIA. DOWEL ENOVIEW

Once your stock is prepared, the next

step is to set up the router table,
SETUP ROUTER TABLE, First, choose a
round over bitlhat's half the diameter of
the completed dowd (For a ]llt"-dia.
dowel, youl1 need a %II-radius bit.)
'Vhen setting up the bit, the key is to
t::::::::==:::~~
SECONO:
SUDEALONG
FENCE
~
~___
----
LEAVE ROUGHLY 2"
_______ Of BOTH ENDS SQUARE
'- .- -,../;oy«

get its cutting edge flush with both the

top of the router table and the facc of the
fence, (Fig. la). If the fence isn't
aligned or the bit is too high or low,
FIRST:
you'll end up with small shoulders or \o\IITH ONE END
AGAINST FENCE,
large fiat spots on the dowel- and this SlJJWlYI'USH
translates into quite a bit of sanding PIECE Im-O BIT
(something I like to avoid),

ROCKING CHAIR 37

caving a seat isn't a typical
woodworking technique.
And frankly, I was a little biL ner-
vous about getting ii ri~ht. But
after weaving the rocking chair
and the footstool, I realized that
there's not much to it. In fact. I'd
have to say that Shakcr~$tyle
weaving is downright easy. It
doesn't require a lot of tools, mate-
rials, Of a lot of time. So once your
rocking chair or footstool has a
few coaLS of finish and is dry, you
can jump right in.
Of course, the best part is how
great the project looks when
you're done. Interesting color
combinations can make a simple
project striking. Or for a look
that's more subdued, you can weave a
project all in one color.
When weavioJ{ for the liest time, there
are a few new t.erms you'll have to get
used lo. For starters, the cotton web-
bing- is called "tape," but it's not sticky.
Plus, the tape has a different name
dependinj;{ on which direction you're
working. I belter explain.
WARP AND WEFT. The first. piece of
tape you work with is called the ~warp"
(Fig. 1). This isn't anything to avoid, as
in woodworking. Instead. the "warp" is
the long piece of tape that's wrapped
around the front and back rails of a pro-
jet.."t (like on the seat of the rocker), or
t.hc top and bottom rails (as on the
rocker's backrest).
'niB other piece of tape is called the
MATERIAlS UST
WEAVING SUPPLIES
Cotton Shaker tape (1 ' wide)
lf~' -long upholstery tacks
l' thid. fOilm pad
Tack ha:nmer
Spring damp
Needle nose pliers
Scissors
Needle and thread or 5-minutc epoxy
38 SHAKER PROJECTS
• • . Weaving a Shaker Seat
back) of the chair. (TIle III foam
pad ends up between these two
layers.) TIle second thing to keep
in mind is that it's better to end up
with too much tape rather than
too little. Although tape can be
spliced to make it longer, you
don't want to risk having that
splice show up in the middle of
your pattern. (When ordering the
lape, you can ask for help. All
you'll need are lhe dimensions of
your chair.)
To estimate the amount or lalre
you'll need, first measure one
complete row by wrapping a
string completely around the rails
(Fig. 2). 111en multiply this mea-
suremt:nt by the number or rows
"weft" (or sometimes, the "woof'). This a
you'll end upwilh also add a few extra
long piece is woven through the warp rows for waste - jUSl to be safe). The
from left lo right (Pig. 1). number of rows will dc;pend on the
width of the tape. Most tape is 1" wide,
which makes the math easy. But %1'-
wide tape is available too.
~ow that you're familiar with the terms The measnrement you just arrived at
I'll be using, it's time to get started. TIle is just for the warp piece of tape. Now
first thing to do is to get all the materials you can follow the same procedure to
together. There are really only lhree estimate the weft piece.
things you need: cotton tape, a piece of
IIP-t.hick foam pad, and a handful of
upholstery tacks.
Note: There are several sources for 'Vhen you have the weaving supplies in
the colton tape and foam pad. Refer to hand and the project has had several
page 126 ror a list. coats of finish applied to it, you can
ESTIMATING THE TAPE LENGTH. To begin weaving the chair back.
figure out how much tape is needed, As 1mentioned, the first piece of tape
you have to keep two things in mind. is caned the ~warp." It's one long piece
First, each seat or backrest will have that's wrapped around the top and
two layers - the tape is woven around bottom backrest rails of the chair.
both the top and bottom (or front and (For the chair sea\. ami the footstool,
W WARP....,
;
BACK
LAYER
OF TAPE
FIRST:
USE STRING TO
MEASURE ONE
L- . - I .f';)
COMFUTEROW
.J
'1 .
;I f)'
wm SECOND:
'--- - , :xj i MULTIPLY LENGTH
Of STRING BY
NUMBER OF ROVVS
~~
,
"-TI-lICK I
FOAM
, ,
..
\.-. ..,. . I
FRONt ___
'-'YE"
OF TAPE
I
'.~I.• ,
I
.I
the warp also covers the front and back slightly, but ihat's okay - you want to in fronL, wrap the Lape around to the
rail". See page 41.) put your be»t face forward. back and then up to the top of the side
Note: If you're using two colors for After weavillg' about halfway across rail (Step 5). To keep the Lape laut,
your chair it's best to use the darker the rails, I stopped and cut the foam pad clamp the tape to the cap rail (or wrap it
color for the warp. On the seat, the front to size (Step :n. Then I inserted the around the rail a few times). Then rack
edge gets much more wear than the foam between the front and back layers the tape in place and trim off the excess.
sides, so the darker color will help of the warp (Step 4). When someone Wllile wrapping the warp, the one
"hide" the dirt beeter. sits in the chair, this pad helps dis- thing to avoid is pulling- the tape too
SECURING THE TAPE. To begin wrap.. tribute some of the weighL to the back tight. It shouldn't sag, but if the tape is
ping the warp, the (irst thing to do is layer of tape. tight now, you'll have a harder time
anchor it to the frame. r did this with a Once the last row of the warp is done weaving the next layer - the weft.
couple of '/2'1. 10ng upholstery tacks.
'Ine end of the tape should end up
hidden as much as possible. So r tacked
it to the inside edge of the backrest post
on the side (not the rail on top or
bottom) (StepJ). Though it isn't cntical
where you tack the tape, I like to tack it
near the end of ihe rail. This way when
hammering the tack in place, the rail
has a little more support than if you
were to tack it in the middle.
Now you can begin wrapping the
tape around the rails, starting from the
back (Step Z). Starting this way allows Working from the back side of the Now wrap the tilpe around the top
ihe tape to run straight up and down in chair, use an upholstery tack to secure and bottom rails, positioning the tape
frollt, which is what you want. This the end of the tape along the bottom edge-to-edge. Make sure the tape in
means the rows in back will angle just inside edge of the side rail. front is perfectly vertical.

3 toWitha railhalf(refer
the tape wrapped, clamp it
to Step 4). Cut a foam
With the tape stiff clamped, feed the
foam between the two layers of tape.
After the last row is completed in
front, wrap the tape around to the
pad to fit between the rails with a 112" gap Continue to wrap the warp until you back and up to the top of the side rail.
around each edge. reach the opposite side rail. Tack it in place and trim the excess.

Depending on the roll of tape, you may

need to splice two of the ends together.
This is easy enough to do. Just make
sure the splice weaves into the back (or
bottom) layer so it';; hidden.
The traditional way to splice tape is
with a needle and thread (see left
photo). But for the rocker, I used a five-
minute epoxy (see right photo).

ROCKING CHAIR 39
At this point, il's time to bet-tin weaving
the weft piece uf tape through the warp.
This is what creates the "checker-
board" look. Onere are also a couple of
additional weaving patterns you mi~ht
want to try. See the Designer's
Notebook on page 42 .)
By the way, you don't have to use
contrasting colors for the warp and the
weft, as 1did. With just one tolorof lapc
on the chair, the pattern will draw less
aLtentioll to it.self, but still add an extra
bit of interest.
Whatever pattern you choose to weave
into your chair, weaving the weft begins
the same way.
TACKING THE WEFT. Like the warp,
the first thing- to do is anchor the weft to
the chair frame. But there's an impor-
tant difference here. Instead of being
tacked on the backrest post near the
bottom. I secured lile wert piece on ['he
underside of the top rail (Step (j). (For
the chair seat or lhe footstool, the weft
6 Weave the tape across the back of the
chair. Then push aside the warp pieces
and tack the end in place.
At the start of each weft row. make
sure you are weaving opposite the
pattern of the row that's above it.
40 SHAKER PROJECTS
is tacked on the
inside edge of the
back rail ncar one
of the legs.)
To do this, first
move to the back
of the chair (or Dip
it over jf you're
working all the
scat) and weave
the weft tape
under and over
the warp pieces
from one end to
the other (Step OJ.
Then push some
of the warp pieces
aside so you can
tack the enrl of the
weft piece to the
backrest rail. (As
you can see in
Stl3P G, the small
head on a tack
hammer is especially useful for resl of the weft. This piece is woven
reaching into this tig-ht space.) through the warp at both the front and
WEAVING. Now it's time to weave the back sides of the chair.
Unlike the warp, the weftcan'l be left
in a roll. You have to pull all the tape
through the warp (see the photo
above). And because lhere ends up
being a big pile of tape, I found it hclperl
to feed the weft into a cardboard box.
And after weaving a couple of rows, I
also discovered another trick. Let the
end of the tape hang over the edge of
the box so you can find it easily.
You'll also find the tape gets pretty
twisted in the process. The simpl{~ way
to straighten it out is to force all the
Moving to the front, weave the tape twists through the warp before the tape
over and under the warp pieces. Then gets pulled to the very end.
repeat this on the back side. While weaving the backrest, you'l!
be moving from the fronl side or the
chair to the back as you weave the two
layers. rull each row tight as you com-
plete it, though don't pull so hard that
you bend the backrest posl".
As you start each row, check that
you're weaving a pattern that is oppo-
site the row above it. You don't want to
discover a mistake several rows later
and have to undo your work.
Also, while weaving the weft, you
want to push each row up against the
one before it (Step 9). When you do
Stop occasionally to push the rows this, make sure the rows on the front
together; making sure those in front (or on top) are straight and square to
of the chair are straight. the walll rows.
For most of the chair, weaving the weft
over and under doesn't change. But
when you gel close to the end, there are
some things to be aware of.
COMPLETING THE WEFT. As you
weave the last few rows, you'll notice
the weavinK Kefs harder because the
tape gets lighter. (Needle nose \)liers
come in handy here.) The weft should
end on the back side of the backrest.
Simply weave it as far as you can. 1llen
pull a couple warp pieces aside and tack
the tape to the backrest rail (Step 11).
Kow just cut off the excess and push the
warp pieces back in vlace.
'nlcre's one big difference when it
comes to weaving the rocker seat-
unlike the parallel sides of the chair
back, lhe seat tapers from front to rear,
WARP PIECES. like the backrest, the
firsL thing to do on the seat is wrap l'he
warp around the front and back rails
(J<'ig. J). But since the front is wider
than the back, you ca.n'Lcover the entire
front rail. There's a little bit on each end
that's exposed.
To cover these sections, add a couple
short slrips of tape to each side (Fig. 1
(l,lId Step O. ,",Vith the chair upside
down, tack one end of the tape to the
back inside edge of lhe side rail. Then
wrap it around the front rail and tack it
again to the inside edge of the side rail.
'!bat's all there is to it. But there are a
couple other tips r can pass along.
To cover the frontrailateach end, tack
short fifler strips to the inside of the
side rails. Position the strips so they're par-
allel with the warp pieces.
Ifyou find yourself running short of
tape and need to make a spfice, try
to position the cut so the splice will be
hidden beneath a warp piece on the back
or underside of the weave.
When positioning the filler strips,
it's important that they arc as parallel as
possible to the other warp pieces. I posi-
tioned the firsl strip near the back leg,
but the second looked better
when t(ld.ed near the middle
(Fig. l). 1\1so, when trim-
SHORT
ming the tape, J tapered the FILLER
~~
top edge so it wouldn't cause
the weft pieces to bulge.
WEFT PIECES. With the
!iller strips in place, you can
weave the wen pieces. I put a
strip of double-sided tape on
the sides of the rails (Swp 2).
This does two things: It I
helps hold the tape as you're
weaving. And later, it pre-
vents the tape from slipping
to the back.
J
NOTE:
Before weaving the weft, place a strip
of double-sided tape on the outside of
each side rail. Remove the tape backing
as you weave each row.
Complete the weft on the back side,
weaving it as far as possible. Then fa
anchor the weft, move a couple of the
warp pieces and tack the weft to the
backrest rail. Move the warp pieces back.
While weaving, you can ~ignore" the
filler strips at first. Then after a few
rows, they can be worked into the
weaving pancrn (Step 3).
TOP SECTION VIEW
.'~
START BY
WEAVING
WAAP
ROWS
r'fAt~
I
STRAIGHT ROWS LEAVE FRONT RAIL EXPOSED
Weave over the filler strips on the sides
for several rovvs. Then when it looks
"natural," begin incorporating them into
the weaving pattern.
ROCKING CHAIR 41
•

Changing the pattern in the weave can give your chair adistinctive look. We offer acouple of
different designs here, butyou can easily design many more with just asheet ofgraph paper.

'Ilw herring-hone pattern (bottom), is

To weave the diamond pattern (top),
there has to be an odd number of rows
ill the warp. Note: If you plan to weave
the diamond on the chair seat or onlhe
footstool. first resize the pattern by
drawing it oul on graph paper rather
than experimenting on the project
similar to the checkerboard. But
instead ofgoing-overoncrow and under
the next, weave over two rows, then
under t\Vo rows. Pay special attention to
the start of each row. Some begin with
one over, then two uoner or vice versa.
l1lh, pattern works well with an even or
odd number of rows.

DIAMONO PATTERN

.u DIAMOND FATIERN
HERRINGBONE PATTERN

42 SHAKER PROJECTS
Shaker--Style Footstool
It doesn't take long to build this footstool to match the rocker. From making your own dowels
to weaving the seat, these two projects share many ofthe same techniques.

rom the start, 1 planned to build a
footstool to go with the Shaker-
style rocker on page 26. Besides
being a nice place to rest your fect, the
stool features many of the same tech-
niques used to build the rocker. So if
you'd like to practice some of these
before yOll "work up" La the rocker, this
is the perfect project.
MATERIALS. Since the idea was La
match the footstool to the rocker, I ui;Cd
hard maple. Tn fact, since [knew I was
going to build both projects, I bought
the wood for them <lIthe same time.
This allowed me to get the best
match between the pieces.
CHERRY. Building the maple
version only took a weekend,
so I decided to make a second
stool to give as a gifL 'Illis time I
decided to lise cherry (sec insdphoto).
1 chose cherry for a couple of rea-
sons. First, the Shakers frequently used
this wood to build furniture. -n,at's
because it was readily available in the
northeastern United States (where the
Shakers settled).
Second, [ really like the deep-red
color cherry takes on as ii ages.
Although the Shakers frowned on
unnecessary "frills~ decorating their
furniture, they did appreciate the nat~
ural beauty of the wood.
FINISH. And with that Shaker notion
in mind, 1 used four coats of a wipe-on
oil finish on both the maple and the
cherry versions.

SHAKER-STYLE FOOTSTOOL 43
EXPLODED VIEW
WASTE
OVERALL DIMENSIONS: - - FOR
20lf,zW l( 14%0 x 16"';zH ( ROUTING
DOWELS
r'---,
U""R NOTE:
END RAIL UPPER
FRONTI8ACK RAlL LEGS MIRROR
@~ EACH OTHER
/@
1'1 '_. .-f----j
"~

------: W

.."
A.

o
5

W I
DIA.

~: H
\ \ '
C

''''''R
FRQNT/BACK RAil ''''''R
END RAlL
©" '//
/
o
~13 5
5
NOTE:
ALL HOlES
I ORJLLl:D

I WOEEP

I
CUTTING DIAGRAM
MATERIALS LIST
1'4 • 4 • 24 (lWo 60ards 0 1.3 6d. Ft. Ei1<h)

U22?Z/~
WOOD
5
A Legs (4)
B Upper FrJBk. Ri.l.ls (2)
1 1f;.x21 1/zrgh,
1 x 24 rgh. G; (J/U?2«;2/? ,
C Lower Fr./Bk. Rails(4) %x24rgh. 1.5·24 (1 Bd.Ft.)

i1
L!ZZ7J7~~AT~
o Upper End Rails(2) lx18rgh.
I
E lower End Raiis (4) -%x18rgh.
L....I... 1---+1:
HARDWARE SUPPLIES
(30 ydsJ l' -wide COllon Shaker tape
'4.4-2~ (.J6d.Ft.) WASTE FOR
ROVTlNG DOWELS
T
2'1.>

E~~L7J7j;;;JTJV??lT~j \..-_.. ,I
(8) "J.' -long upholstery tacks
(1) l' -;hickfoam pad, 12" x 17"
'1•' • ~ - 24 (.7 6d. Pt.)
NOTE: elJT
LEGS FROM
_..
1Y.."·THICK STOCK-' .--'

G' -
LEc:
The legs start oul as overlong- square
blanks. After holes are drilled, they are
rowldeJ over and then cut 1.0 lengt.h.
SQUARE BLANKS. To begin, r cul four
le,gs (A) lIlt" square (Fi,q. 1). TIle final
length of these pieces will be 16W', but
I cut mine 5'1 longer. (lllis extra length
comes in handy when it comes lime to
rout the square blanks into round
dowels.)
LAYOUT. The next step is to layout
Ldm2VZJB
_ Lhe locations of the finished Lop and
bottom ends (the finished length of the
legs), and the holes LhaL will be drilled
to hold the rails later. Just keep ill mind
that Lh(;~c legs aren't idcnLical. They
ereate two pairs that mirror each other.
So after laying them out, sLand the four
legs up on end to makc sure each set of
holes aligns.
The first thing- to 110 is to mcasure up
from the boltom of each blank 2112"
(Fiy. O. This wiU be the bottom end or
the finished leg. To make sure you rout
farellough when rounding over the leg,
make a mark, around the blank at this
point Then layout the top end of the
leg, 16W' above this 1i1lC, amI make a
second mark around the leg. And
finally, mark on adjacent faces the loca-
tions oC the six holes.
DRILL HOLES. Once the hole locations
are marked, you can drill them. 111ey
are all nat-bottomed holes 3141' deep. Hut
they're not all the same diameter. 111e
top hole on each (ace is 3/t" in diameter
to match the tenon on the upper rail

44 SHAKER PROJECTS
(Fig. O. The /mU()/n two holes are llzu
SECOND: SUDE
in diameter to fit the tenons all the ALONGFENC~
CROSS
SECTION
lower rails. (I drilled these using
Forstner bits in the drill press.)
ROUND OVER EDGES. At this point, RRST:
the square leg blanks are ready to be SLOWLY PIVOT
"turned~ into dowels. And to do this, [
routed them on a router table using' a
WORKPIECE
INTO BIT 1'i:::;;:u:;'-l,-l;-:':::>:l;;;:9
..-
W...... j LEG ...J
%"-radius roundover bit (Fig. '2). Each ROUNDOVER B~K

leg requires four "stopped" passes over

the bit. See the Technique box on page
LEAVE ENDS SQUARE / ' '"
37 for more about this.
Once the square blanks have been
turned into round le.gs, they can be cut. 111[ ,1"'-1-1 "''';"""
to finished length (16W'). ll1is has to
be done accurately, so the holes arc
CHAMFER
(-TOP AND BOTTOM
,,-J.- • II
aligned exactly from one leg to another. , OF LEGS t '1' lJ4@@ll
I ,
Note: Routing the roundovers on 'v--~-,-)
the legs removed your ori.ginal layout. • y.
("
t LOWER RAILS
lines, so you'll have to measure again.
Make sure you measure from the
bottom end of each piece.
@
\.! !•
Then to complete the legs, I sanded
y, ©® .';
,.~

them smooth and routed a IN' chamfer V. 1,

on each end (Fig. S). This helps keep
the ends of the 1cJ.{s from splintering.

a NOTE: SIZE OF
TENONS VMY
(SEE FIG. 4)
The front/back rails (B, C) and end
rail:,; (D, E) that connect the legs start
out as square blanks that arc 5" longer , Y,'·DIA.
CORE BOX
than linishcd length. just like tlle legs. / __ BIT
There are no holes to drill in these
pieces, so the first thing to do is round
over their edges. I used a IN'-radius
roundover bit for the I"-diu. upper rails
(B, D) and a ~18"-radills bit for the %"_
dia.lowerrails (C, E).
Once the rails arc rounded over, they
can be cut to final length (19" for the
front and back rails and n " for the
ends). Then I cuI tenons on both ends
of each piece using a W'-dia. core box
bit (Fi.qs. 4, 5, and the Technique box
on page 31). Even though there are two
different diameters for the tenons, the NOTE: MEASURE
WIDTH AT TOP
height of the bit should be the same for AND BOTTOM
both of them (W'). But the important
thing is that the tenons at the holes in
the legs. So it's a good idea to stan with
the bit slightly lower than W' and sneak So to make sure they weren't twisted, I surface. (If the stool does rock, put a
up OIl the final size. set them on a flat surface. And I also liUle bit of weight on it.)
measured the widths at the top and AT. this point, t.he "woodworking" is
L bottom of the assembly to make sure done, so you can apply a finish to the
they were the same. footstool. (I wiped on four coats of an oil
With the tenons cut, the frame of the When the ,l{luc is dry on the end finish to match the rocker.)
footstool can be assembled. I glued up assemblies, they can be connected with To complete the footstooL you can
lhe end assemblies first (Fir;. (i). With the front and back rails (Fig. 6). To weave the seat with cotton tape. Refer to
round mortises and tenons, it's easy for make sure the stool didn't rock, I made the Technique box starting on page ::IS
an assembly to get racked olltof square. sure all four legs were resting on a fiaT. for mort' on how to do this. •

SHAKER-STYLE FOOTSTOOL 45
Hall Clothes Tree
Aspecial interlocking design brings this red oak hall tree together with a distinctive, Mission-style look.
It also makes it strong and stable, without the need for a massive single "trunk."

here's not much to this hall tree: So I played with the shape and

T posts, hooks, feet and cross lengths ofLhe pieces, trying to get a bal-
pieces. But as simple as it is, anced look that worked well when
working out the final design took quite a coats, hats, and umbrellas were hung
few revisions. on it (see photo at left).
POST. For one thing, a hall tree This required building several proto-
requires a center post. A solid post Lypes. But that wasn't a bi,\{ deal; you
would have been hard to find - and don't have to cul any tcnons on the
pretty heavy. Plus, it would've had a ten- inside edges of the hooks or feel.
dency to warp, parLkularly with sea- Instead, the pieces are simply sand-
sonal changes in humidity. wiched between the posts.
I considered laminating the post MATERIALS. The hall tree shown here
from two Of three pieces of thinner was made from red oak. Oak was a pop-
stock. But then there would have been ular material to use for Craftsman-style
visible joint lines running the length of or Mission furniture, particularly in
the post. northern regions where it was abun-
INTERLOCKED JOINTS. So instead of a dantlyavailable.
single, solid post, Tdecided on [our nar- Oak is very hard and durable, and it
rower posts (each 1'1 thick). These planes well. And when finished with oil
posts afe connected by the hooks, feel (as this project was) red oak can
and some special cross pieces in an develop a lich, natural l.:olor - almost
interlocking style (rc(er to the all orange hue.
Exploded View on the opposite page). Of course, you could also use nearly
This "Lincoln Log" approach light- any other hardwood to build this pro-
ened the weight of the tree, and also ject. And no hardware is need~d, as the
made it quite a bit more interesting to interlocking design makes it sturdy just
look at (and build). The exposed joints with glue.
and contrasting grain give it a distinct PATTERNS. Scaled-down ,\{rid pat-
Craftsman/Mission look. terns are shown for the top hooks,
HOOKS & FEET. \-Vith the post bottom hooks, and feet of the hall tree
designed, next I worked on the hooks (see opposite page).
and feet. Of course, these pieces have to But if you prefer not to try to transfer
look right BUl chang-ing their size (and these patterns to your workpieces, you
shape) also affected the stability and can purchase full-size patterns. For
utility of the tree. more information, see page 126.

CUTTING DIAGRAM
1 x 5·60 RED OAK {2.6 Bd. Ft.} NOTE, All PlECES

~
CUT FROM Ii. STOCK

I E [ E E
I E (PLANED 1" THICK)

'" 84 RED OAK (2.9 Bd. Ftl

I C
I c
I c c
I 0 0
I 0 0
~
1 x 5 - 84 RED OAK (3.6 ad. Ft.)

tJLj.~222;(22(22(2(222;22222~22)222222)2222222222;22222(; (2~
48 MISSION PROJECTS
EXPLODED VIEW
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
22)/,W x 22 3110 x 69)/~H

MATERIALS LIST
WOOD
A I'osts(4) lx1-65-"
B (fOSS Piect'S (4) 1X1 - 3
C TopHooks(4) Tx4-10
D Bottom Hooks (4) 1 )14-8
E F«!I (4) lx5-13"h
@
BOTTOM
HOOK
CROSSPlE<ES

"" """""'*"
"""AM>
KEEP THEM
AUG""
t~-J

®
POST
CROSSPIECE

"" '''' I
®

~
~~

NOTE: ALL PATTERN

GRIDS ARE 111" SQUARE.

HAU CLOTHES TREE 49

 POST (l·x I")
.~ ~-.~

,~~~!!-~~;~i==I~~i~;AlUl'!,"!A!"1~~;~
::-=:: FENCE To build this hall tree, I started with the
"trunk." This trunk is made up of four
long- posts (refer to the exploded View
on page 4-9). Each post has a series of

SET STOP
("'NDTCHESON~'~
~
ADJACENT FACES
notches cut on two adjacent faces.
Thesc notches hold the hooks, cross
FOR EACH pieces, and feel.
SHOULDER
OF EACH STOP 8LOCK
To make the posts, r :;tarted with a
NOTCH 51'-wide blank of 5/4 stock planed 1'1
a. CUT SHOULDERS FIRS!...T';!EN
REMOVE WAm IN B~IVV~EN,
thick. Keep in mind whcn you're
choosing" and milling this blank (hal the
straighter these pieces are now, the
POST@ easier it will be to cut the notches and
assemble lhe tree later.
- DADO BLADE
CUT TO LENGTH. With lhe blank
ready, I cut it tofinal1cngth (65 1/4") and
ripped it into rour l'l-widc posts (A) (see
Cutting Diagram on page 48). This way,
all the pieces will cnd up exactly the
same length, which is importanl when it
comes time lO cut the notches.
CUT NOTCHES. With the post:; cut to
ZERQ.CLEARANCE AUXILIARY size, r began work on the notches.
MITER FENCE
\
These are cut on the inside races or
each post (Piy. 7J. And since they trap
"""',
ATfAOi ZERO G.EMANCE
FENCE WITH ROUTER BIT r~.~
the hooks and [eel, it's important that
they line up across the four posts.
BELOW TABLETOP. THEN
TURN 0fIl ROUTER To do this, first I laid out the notches
AND RAISE BfT TO
CUT OPENING, on a single post (sec Exploded View).
(Note that the top and bottom notchc!'l
are the !'Iamc distance rrom the cnds of
CHAMfER BIT
the post, but they're noi thc !'lame
a. AUXILIMY
MrTER fENCE
length. The bottom notch is longer.)
G1AMFER With the notches laid out on one
post, I set the dado blade to make a 114"_
'" """',
~,., CHAMFER BOTH deep Cilt. And I added a 101l~ auxiliary
@ ENDS OF POST fcnce to the miter gauge to support the
piece (Fig. 1),
The trick lo making sure that the
notches are identical is to lise a slOp
block (Fig. 1). After setting it to cut the

.................. Special Sandinq Block

If the notcres on the posts for
the hall tree aren't smooth,
you'll notice it when the hooks
and feet are glued between
them later.
So I created a simple sanding
block out of plY""0od and 1/~' %" PL'rWOOD ,
a. ""."-",,.";,,_._._.• ,__ O'/!'.~·4'"
hardboard (see drawing).
The "handle" of the block
spans the notches so their depth ";;;;;;o"",';;;;rnot--()-", "..- -
I ADHESIVE-BACKED) t Ii" HARDBOARD
stays consistent and their edges SANDPAPER. -
aren'1 rounded over.

SO MISSION PROJECTS
 CROSS
PIECE ®
Nore
CROSS PIECES
CUT TO LENGTH
AfTER HALF lAPS
ARE CUT
WASTE'

first shoulder, r made two passes on

each piece, rolling the post between
passes so the notches ended UJl on adja-
cent faces. NOTE: HANDS REMOVED
AUX. FENCE FQRCLARITY
When the first shoulder had been AUX. FENCE
cut on all the posts, I moved the stop RIP FENCE _ _'-_
block to cut the second shoulder of the
notch. Nter making this cut, any waste DADO
'lAOE
between the two shoulders can be
removed with overlapping passes. 111en
I worked 011 the next notch, following
~~®
the same procedure W(q.la).
Note: Because or the length of the
posts, you'll need to flip them around AUX. FENCE a.
halfway through this process.
..l- r-l -' - BlANK FOR 3
When the notches were cut, I Yl CROSS PjECES
noticed they had some shallow kerr
marks leIL by my dado blade. I was con-
cerned that these marks would be vis-
ible after assembly. So to remove them,
I made a simple sanding jig (sec the N01E: HANDS REMOVED
Shop Tip box on the opposite page). FOR CLARITY
CHAMfER ENDS. With the saw marks ZERQ-Cl..EARANCE
FENCE:--_~~
removed, all that's left is to chamfer the
ends on the router table (Fig. Z). "Iltese
pieces are so long that I was concerned
about routing this chamfer, but I found
that holding- them flat on the u.ble
wasn't difficult, especially when using
the miter gauge and an auxiliary fence
to support the piece. But to keep the a.
pieces frum calching in the rence ®
opening, I added a zero-clearance fence
made of 1/8" hardboard with an opcllin,g
sized to cut the chamfer (Pi.IJ. Q). CHAMFER BfT CROSS PlEa: ASSEMBLY

With the posts completed, I started on
the cross pieces. Each cross piece
assembly consists of two individual
pieces stacked together. They connect
the posts in the middle so the spacing
stays even (see photo above).
OVERSIZE BLANKS. The cross pieces
(B) lit in the notches in the center of the
post. (Mine were 1'I X 1'1.) Their final
length will be 3'1. However, since thi~ is
a bit short to work with on the table saw
safely, I started Ollt with two T'-long
blanks (Fig. ,1).
With the two blanks in hand, I cut a
haH lap near both ends of each so the
cross pieces woultl overlap (Fig. ..1). To
support these blanks, I attached an aux-
iliary fence to the miter gauge and used
the rip fence as a sIOI).
CUT TO SIZE. l\ow the blanks can be
cut into four cross pieces (Fiy. ;"i). (This
time, you can't use the rip fence as a
stop, because the piece will kick back.)
Then all that's left is to chamfer Ihe
ends of the cross pieces (Fig. 6). Here
again. r used the zer()--c1carance insert.
But this lime, J supported the pieces
wHh a push block.
:\low the cross pieces can be glued
together and sct aside until after the
hooks and feet are made and the tree is
ready to be assembled (Fig. 7).

HAll CLOTHES TREE 51

 TIle last pieces to make arc the hooks
and feet. 'lliere are twelve different
HOO' pieces to make, but the procedure is
PATTERN identical (the only difference is the
!
AUX
BLOCK \
shape). The initial (straight) culs are
made on a table saw for accuracy, while
the curved cuts arc made on a band saw.
I started by cutting the blanks for the
top (C) and bottom hooks (0) from 1'1.
HOD'
BLANK thick stock (Top hook blanks are 4" x
10 1'; bottom blanks are 4 1' X8'1.)
PATTERN. With the blanks cut to size,
I created paLterns for the top and
botlom hooks (sec page 49), Then 1
NOTE: ROTATE MITER mounted them to two of the blanks.
GAUGE 40" FOR TOP INSIDE EDGE. The next step is to
AND BOTTOM HOOKS.
25' FOR FOOT BlA.NK5 shape the inside edge of each blank
(the nne that fits into the notches on the
posts). 'nlis is a two-skp process. First I
angled the miler gaURe and cut the
inside edge of each piece (Fig. 8).
Note: BOlh hook blanks are cut with
the miter gauge angled to 40 0 •
With the inside edge CUI, next I cut
the top and bottom edges so Ihe hooks
fit in the notches in the post. I cut the
bottom edge first with the blank
standing on the inside edge. (I cuI tile
FIRSt. blank with the pattern first and then
CUT BOTTONI traced this cut on the other blanks.)
EDGE OF HOOK
;.lexl, [ cut the top edge of the hook
(Figlj. 9 and 9n). Here, instead of fol-
a. lowing the pattern, you'll wanl to sneak
up on the final height (width) of the
REMOVE WASTE IN piece so it fits snug in the notches in the
MULTIPlE PASSES
SECOND: posts. When it does, you can clamp a
--', r- SNEAK UP ON TOP EDGE,
BOTTOM EDGE TOP EDGE CHEO<ING FIT IN NOTCH. slop block to the auxiliary fence so all
~EN ADD STOP BLOCK.
the olher blanks will be identical.
Note: You'll need to reset the stop
block for the other set of hook blanks.
CUT TO SHAPE. Now the resl of tile
pattern can be cul out. 1culoversize on
__-~~:--;:-•• PUSH the band saw and sanded up to the line.
_ -.BLOCK"
When this piece was complete, I tnKed
ZERO CLEARANCE HOO' it on the other blanks so they could be
"NCE ©@ cuI and sanded to match.
, fEET. Next you can work on the feet
(E). The procedure here is the same.
l The only differences are that the blank
is larger (51' x 13 1/l) (sec page 49) and
to cut the inside edR"e, the miter gauge
~ is rotated 25 0 •
a. - ZERO CLEARANCE FENCE AlSO ROUT 14' CHAMFERS
ON INSIDE EDGES OF CHAMfER INSIDE EDGE. When the feet
fOOT BLANKS
are cut out and sanded. there's still one
more step for both the hooks and feet. J
routed chamfers on the inside edges of
each piece (Jt'igs. 10 and lOa). These
IN' chamfers allow all four pieces to
come together in the center.

52 MISSION PROJECTS
 GLUE UP 1'VVO HALVES OF TREE
WI'TH A TOP J\ND BOTTOM
HOOK AND FOOT

NOTE;
USE CROSS PIECES
AS SPACERS BUT
DO NOT GLUE YET

NOre
HOOKS AND
FOOT MUST BE
FLUSH VIr'ITH INSIDE FACES
Of POSTS (SEE DETAIL a)

Now that the hooks and feet arc com-
plet.e, the hall tree l:un be assembled.
Here it begins to look like a large
"Linl:oln LoR"~ project. But fortunately.
there's not much to the assembly, if you
takc it in stcps.
GLUE UP HALVES. 'Ibe first t.hing I did
was glue ujl olle set of hooks (top and
bottom) and a foot between two posts
(Fif}o 11). I used the cross piece assem-
blies LO help keep the posts aligned. But.
the important t.hing is thai the inside
edges of all the posls, hooks, and feet
are flush (Fig. Ila).
When one half is glued together, I did
the ",.me with lhe other. Then I con-
nected the two halves by gluing the cross
pict.;eassemblies belwC'Cll them (Fig. 12J.
Now the remaining pairs of hooks
and feet can be glued inlo the notches
(Hg. 12).1 added one ata time, inserting-
it inLo the notch and clamping it tighL
Note: To prevcnt squeeze-out, apply
glue only Lo the notches on the post.
After all t.he hooks and feet were in
place, I checked to see if there was a
shoulder at the bOtlom of the hooks. If
there was, I sanded the hooks so they
made a smooth transition into the posts.
'll1en 1 softened alllhc "hard" edges on
the hooks and feel
FINISH. TIle last thing lo do is apply
the finish. Because of the tight spaces
between the posts, a spray gUll would
work best But if you don't have a spray
gun, you can do what 1 did. Wipe on
about three coats of an oil finish. •

FIRST:
CONNEa TWO HALVES
VIr'ITH CROSS PIECE
ASSEMBLIES

THIRD: UGHTLY
SAND HOOKS AND
FEET TO SOFTEN EDGES

CROSS PIECE
ASSEMBLY

BOTIOM
HOOK
@ -

SECOND:
ADD REMAINING
HOOKS AND FEET

HALL CLOTI-tES TREE S3

Oak Sofa Table
Everything you'd expect ofa Mission-style sofa table is featured in this project, including
quartersawn oak, square spindles, andauthentic mortise and tenon joinery.
lywood or solid wood? That's the
P choit:"e you have to make when a
project includes wide panels, such
as the top and shelf on this sofa table.
Often, I choose plywood since it won't
expand and contract with changes in
humidity as much af'. solid wood.
But I chose solid wood on this table.
for two reasons. I wanted to use quar-
tersawn oak, typical of Mis:>ion (or
Craftsman style) furniture, and quarter-
sawn oak is hard to find in plywood.
Also. beveling a plywood edge wouldn't
work without hardwood edging.
S4 MISSION PROJECTS
WOOD MOVEMENT. Since solid wood
was the best option, I needed a way to
allow the panels to expand and contract..
This wasn't a problem with the lop,
or the front and back of the shelf. I used
some simple l-shaped fasteners. But
the ends of the shelf were a concern.
The problem is that the shelf fits
between the legs, so when the ).lanel
expands, it will tcnd to push thc legs
apart, and when it con1racts, there will fiNISH. I used a light cherry stain and
be a j{ap. So I made a pocket for the topped it with two coals of an oil and ure-
sheU by extending the groove on the thane combination. Then 1 rubbed on
rails into the legs (see inset photo). paste wax and buffed it to a satin sheen.
 -------------

EXPLODED VIEW
OVERA.Ll DIMENSIONS:
50Lx17Dx28H

Z-$HAPED TOP @ - - --~

,- TABLE TOP -"I
FASTENERS ~"'-~""'C-~-- ~. . __

\~~~--=...--~~-:--:-'
r1nr -c------__ ---- - - ---- - - - - - ----

~~-=~~--- ~-~
~B UPPER
RAIL

®--
----~----=< . ~ I
""""
STRETCHER
I
SHELF I
®
SPINDLE
/ @
./

TABLE TOP DETAIL

CROSS SECTION
<
\

I -_~t
Z-$HAPEO FASTENER) UPPER
STRETCHER

TO AUOW TOP AND ---I

SHELF TO EXPAND AND
CONlllACT, BOTH LJ
ARE SECURED INITH
Z-$HAPEO FASTENERS

CUTTING DIAGRAM
MATERIALS UST
1% x 4 - 60 QUARTERSAWN WHITE OAK (3.3 Bd. FL)
WOOD
A Leg~ (Il) Pl4)( lJ;~-27%
I A" I A ~
B UpPf!r Rails (2) 3/~)(2-1n4 84 QUARTERSAWN WHITE OAK (2 Board~ 0 2,3 Bel. Ft. Each)
%x4lf~-11lf4
b_==.~.,=~'=,===:=~~, =,.~=~' ===~
CLower Rilils (2)
D Spindles (14) 'h)(%-15'/8
E Sh~lf (1) 314 )( 12 3/4-40 .J;" x 5 - 96 QUARTERSAWN WHITE OAl< (2 Boards ft 3.3 B~d".~;''_'e''''~) ~--=
F Upr, Stretchers (2)
G Lwr. Str€'tchers (2)
H Top(l)
%x2-39%
%)(3-39%
%)(17-50
[ " " " " " " """H ,,=,:::r, "'"" ,,~"''',,;;;''''''~
+4 x 5·96 QUARTI:RSAWN WHITE OAK (3.3 Bd. ft) D

HARDWARE SUPPLIES
(16) No.8x%" Rhwoodscrews I n H ~""~-;;;;;;;;~
(16) Z-shapcd table top fasteners v., x 5 96 QUARTERSAWN WHITE OAK {3,3 Bd. Ft.}

L=,~~. ==,:J:~~
OAK SOFA TA8lE 55
 I
10 ----""1 J a. ,,
~ I~
~~~
~.~

l'rn \,...--- .
J To build the sofa table, 1 started by

~
----" working on the legs.
11M - - " I , r; w, With some projects, keeping all of
I
, -L
UJ the legs oriented correctly in relation to
, I ! each other requires some mental gym-
® IJ 14~! ® nastics. But it's easy on this table since
U"", I '
UPPER
the four legs (A) are identical.
I "''' I I LEG
@
"''' The leR"s arc cut from 8/-1 stock to a
JcnKth of27W' and 1311" square (Fir!. J).
I NOn::: ALL
TENONS ARE
%" LONG
MORTISES. Next. [ made centered
mortises for the rails and stretchers
I
I (F'!.g:J. lu and lb). To do this, drill over-
lapping INI-dia. holes II/ut fleep on
2'" ,
I .J
1" ~ I !
'b.
1,. adjacent faces of the legs. Then square
up the sides and ends with achiscl.
TAPERS. Finally, I tapered the inside
'''''''
I © I 6% , "'''
© f<lces of each leg- (the same faces that
the morlises arc on). Start the Lapers 6'1
~. .....--'" I up from the bottom end (Pi.g. ,'/n,,).

~~
11%
I~
~
) To do this, I made a jig for the table
saw (Fig. f,!).It.'sjust a saap piece with a
?/-----~ tapered edge and a small cleat at one
"-1% l~J end. 'The jig acts as an angled spacer
LEG --..! , between the rip fence and the leg. You
---'---@
NOTE: ALL MORTISES
, J'--- pllsh the leg- through the blade, and the
-t ARE n;..,' Deep AND
CENTERED ON LEGS
cleat causes the jig to ride along (Pig . .'I).
When one lnper is cuI, rotate the leg
so the other mortised face is toward the
blade and make a second pass.

r- -}4
--u. R

Kow the legs can be set aside and work

2
%'PLYWOOD call begin on the rails that will join the

~L=-c==l4
___ .~__ .- SCREW SCUD CLEAT TO FRONT END
----------:''''''=~J1:G-~ f legs at the ends of the table.
The upper and lower rails (B, C) arc
cut from 3/~"-thick stock amI arc the
same IcngUl (11 %"). But the upper rail
isn't as wide (2 11 ) as the lower one (4 IIR")

... "

a.
LEG
@
.J LEG
@

"----- '
SAFaY NOTE: /
JUST PUSH lEG
ENOUGH TO ClEAR BLADE,
THEN TURN OfF SAW

56 MISSION PROJECTS
(Fig. 1). TIle extra width on the lower
FOR CONSISTENT
rail allows room for a groove to accept LAYOlJ1S:LAM~
MILS TVl..IETHER
the shdfthat's added later.
TENONS. After cutting the rails to
final size, tenons can be cut on the ends
of the rails. Since the tenons are cen-
tered, I cut them on the table saw with a
dado blade, flipping the rails between
passes to sneak up on the thickness.
Then I cut the shoulders on the
tenons, which arc all %" except the
upper shoulder on the lower rail (C).
Here, it's I 1j gtl because of t'he shelf
groove that's added later (Vig. Ih). ""'-1 ~-1.1
SPINDLE MORTISES. With the tenons
Lllt, it's lime to layout the spindle mor-
tises. There are seven mortises in each
rail. For a good fit, these mortises should
align between the top and bottom rails.
To ensure Ihis, r clamped the four rails
togethcr and marked the centcrs of all CENTER a.
the mortises WigH. 4 and 4ft). W RAIL
ON BIT ./ )::;;;;t-:!;;:: US<
CHISEL GUIDE
Next, unc1amp the rails and set up TO SQUARE UP
the drill press to bore a ;I!l;"-dia. hole MORTISES
5116" deep that's centered Oil the thick-
ncss of the rail (Fig. 5). Then drill a
single hole for each llIortise. Wx'ls"
Finally, [squared up the mortises with I '-MORTISE
~ DRILL HOLES
a chisel. To keep them idcntjcal, [madea ~·DEEP
chisel guide (sec the Shop Jig below).

, , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
elting all the spindle holes on the
sofa table rails squared up can bc
difficult. To speed up the process. I
made a simplcjig to guide my chisel.
'Ibis jig is just a piece of aluminum
angle with a square hole filed in the
middle. The key to this jig is cutting the
square hole so it's centered perfectly
over the drilled holes in the rails.
This is easy to do. Once the holes for
the mortises are drilled (Fi,q. 1), clamp
,
I '''''''
POINT
B"~
/"
Chisel Guide
the aluminum angle to the [rout of your
workpiece (Fiy. 2). Don't move the
fence on your drill press, but change to
a twist bit to drill thc aluminum.
Now drill the hole and square it up
with a small file until it's the sizc needed
for the mortise (%It x W') (F'iy.8).
To use the jig, position it over the
holes and clamp il in place (see photo).
The jig guides your chisel to cut mor-
tises that match the spindle tenons.
FILE A SQUARE HOLE
IN ALUMINUM ANGLE

"
y~,,~
- SMALL
METAL FILE

OAK SOFA TABLE 57

 IU LE~n\
AUXllIMY
FENCE
a. SPINDLE TENON
I SPINDLE
EQUALS
OPl:NING
PLUS 1':1"
I
I
DADO @-"
BLADE ,,@
SPINDLE SPINDLE

I
I
UPPER
IWL

"'-
'\'~--
I J
I~
(
\\ a. UPPER '--@
II I" (®
RA<L SPINDLE

j -
/
NOTE:
CUT KERF ON TEST FIT A SPINDLE
INSIDE FACE OF IN THE END ASSEMBLY
UPPER RAILS ONLY BEFORE CUTTING TENONS ON
ALL THE SPINDLES

trying Ihe tenon in Lhe mortise. It also

Once all Ihe mortises in lhe rails arC'
drilled and squared up, they arc ready
for the square spindles.
CUT TO SIZE. To find the length orlhe
spindles. first dry-assemble Ihe rails
and legs into an end unit. nlen measure
the distance between the rails (refer to
Fig. 8). 'Ibis will give you the s/lOuldCl'-
{o-:;}lOuldel' Jislance of the spindles.
Now add l/{ to this measurement to
allow for the 1/1 "_long tenons on each
end. (My spindles were 15lf8" long.)
Next, to cutlhe spindles (D) to size, [
began \\'illl W'-Ihick stock cui 1.0 fin-
ished length, Then I ripped Ill-square
means making sure the spindles fil
bC'lwcenlhe upper and lower rails. 'Illcrc'sjust a couple more steps before
KERF IN RAIL. Now, to complete the Ihe cnd units of the table can be assem-
upper rails (H), I cut a W' kerf in each bled. First, there has 10 be some way to
rail's lop inside edge (Fir/IS. 7 QJid 8). hold the shelf in place between Ihe
'Illis is for the hardware used 10 attach ends. It's done a litlle differently Ihan
the top panel later. with the table top.
. ,
LOWER
RA<L NOTE:
ROUT \/". ROUNDOVER ON LEGS
AFTER GROOVES AND NOTCHES
ME CUT, THEN ASSEMBLE ENDS.
'--..,
- -.----------
"
~.

spindles from the blank.

Note: It's probably a good idea to
make a few extra spindles. This will
help you set up the cut for the tenons.
iJl
,
SHELF
®--- ~
- -~

TENONS. Once the spindles are cut to a.

width, square lenoTlScan be cUlon their LOWER
NOTE:
IWL
ends to fit the mortises in the rails. I like PLANE OR SAND SHElf
\... TO THE FINAL THICKNESS
to do this on the table saw with a dado BUT LEAVE OVERSIZE
blade buried in an auxiliary fence. To do (- IN \MOTH AND LENGTH
this, leave IN! of the blade exposeci and BOTTOM
0'
raise it 1/\61' above the table (Fi.g. 6), GROOVE
FLUSH
Rut before cuUing tenons on all the \MTH TOP
OF TENON
pieces, start with a test piece and check
the fit. '111is means more than jusl

58 MISSION PROJECTS
 To support the shelf and prevent it
from cupping, I cut a /{roove in the
lower rails. Easy enough. But since the TO ClfT NOTCHES,
shelf will be notched to fit between the DRILL OVERlAPPING
HOLES, AND CLEAN UP
lcg-s, r had to come up with a way to WITH a·USEl
allow the panel to easily expand and
contract. J( it were jmlt glued in the
groove, the shelf would likely split or
leave gaps with changes in humidity.
'lllc solution is to extend the groove LAY OlfT NOTCH
IN LEG FROM
into the legs so there't' a notch for the GROOVE IN RAIL
shelf to expand into (Figs. [) ((ud lU and
the inset pholo on pal(e 51).
SHELF. Creating the groove for the
shelf isn't difficult. But since the final
thickness of the shelf (E) determines
the width of the g'rooves, I glued the After all the notches are cut, you can TENONS. Next, cut 5/s"-long tenons
shelf up now and planed and sanded it test the fit of the shelf in the grooves centered on the stretchers to fir the
down to final thickness (Fiy. 0(1). (You and notches. mortises in rhe legs. Note that the
can leave it at rough width and leng'th ROUND OVER LEGS. Once the shelf tenons on the lower strelchers don't
Cor now.) fits in the f,'Tooves and notches, there's have shoulders along their top edges.
GROOVE. After determining the one more step berore the ends can be That's because the shelf sits directly Oil
thickness of the panel, the first step is to assembled. Use the router table and a top and will hide any gaps.
layout the location of the groove in the fence to rout a J/.,," roundovcr on all four KERFS AND ARCS. There arc lwo more
rail. Mark the bottom edge of lhis edges of the le.'!s. steps to complete the stretchers. First,
groove so it will be flush with the top ASSEMBLE ENDS. At this point, the the hardware that holds the i'\helf and
edge of the tepon on the rail (Fig. !Ja). ends of the table can be assembled. I top in place (refer to Fit!. 14a) requires
Then cut the groove I/.l " deep. positioneu the spindles in their mor- a kerf cut along the inside faces of the
NOTCH. ~ow dry-assemble the lcJ:,TS tises between the rails. Then I glued the stretchers (Fig. l2a).
and rails into an end unit again, and legs to the rails. The second step is to layout and cut
transfer the depth and height of the an arc 011 the bottom of each of the
groove lo the leg (Fig. lO).l1lCn Jay out lower st.retchers (Fi,q. 12). This arc
the notch on the leg, Once the layout is should be 2'1 down from the top edge of
complete, you can notch the kg. To Next. the slretchers (I.: G) can be made the streIcher at its highest point.
remove Illost of the waste, I used my (Piy. 12). They're cut to identical To layout lhis arc, you can use a flex-
drill press to drill :1/1l1'·l\ecp overlapping len~lhs (39 3/l), but the upper ible straightedR'e, a couple of pointed
holes. Then I pared up to the layout stretchers ure 2'1 wide, while the lower scraps, and a pencil (refer to the Shop
lines with a sharp chisel (}'ig. 11). ones arc ;{II (Fig. l2a). Tip box Oil paR'c 65).

a" NOTE: NO SHOULDER ON

TOP OF LOWER STRETCHER

~--~ i T
J.

""""
STRETCHER -,
'",
'j-i'
I
'

I l,.
LOWE'
STRETCHER
@_

2
~
I
\
~I
~•
,
2

.L
,
®
._l
-T
%
,.0
!

.l. •
l ,, - ,
@
., •
KERF
W
DEEP

._J

U"",
STRETCHER
LOWE'
STRETCHER

NOTE: CUT%"-lONG TENONS

ON THE EI\'DS OF STRETCHERS

OAK SOFA TABLE 59

Before connccting thc cnd assemblies
with the stretchers. you nced to cut the
shelipand to final. size. To do this, you'll
have to tlry·assemble the table again
(/"1:g.1,1). SHElf
'1l1e overall length of the sheU equals ®
the distance between the bottoms oithe
grooves in the rails. (Mine was 10"
long-.) The overall width equals Ille dis·
\
tance across the stretchers plus IN'
overhang on each side (Fig. ida).
01ine ended up 1::W4" wide.)
NOTCHES. After the shelf is cut to
size, the corners need to be notched to
fiturolUld the legs (and into the notches
in the lcj.,rs) (Pig. l.'1b). To find the depth a. b.
of the shelf notch, measure from the CROSS --
bottom of the groove in thc rail to the
insille edge of the leg. (M ine was :W'.)
SE010N
,..
<W\M>ffi
,. ~.
OVERfW\lG

The width of the notch is a little
trickier. First measure from lhe outside
edge of the stretcher to the ed,ge of the
notch in the leg ('7fslt) (Fiy. Hb). Add
IN' for thc overhang on the olltside of
the stretcher. 111cn add anot.her W' for
II gap inside the notch that allows the
shelf lo expand and contract. (My notch
was \ lJs" wide.)
Note: It's a good idea to doubk'-
check your measuremcnts before cut-
ting the notches on the shelL The
length between the legs should equal
the length between these notches.
Thcn once the notches are cut, dry·
assemble the table one last time to
~J CEG LOINER
, " STRETCHER
/
. .' SHELF / /
-'--=~~~-:c=7·-, SHELf
LOINER
STRETCHER
• '''' WUAP
ALLO'NS SHELF
\ , " TO EXPAND
ANDCONTRAG
makc sure everythinR" fits. cut it to finished size (Pi,q. H). '1l1en
ASSEMBLY. \Vhen everything fits. rout a bevel around the bottom edgc
rout a I/ll;" chamfer on the lop edge of (see the Shop Jig on the opposite page).
the shelf (Pig. /3(1). Then gluc up the Finally, to attach the top (and lhe
table. (Don'! glue in the shelf panel.) front and back of the shc10. I used table
TOP. Now all that's left is to add the lOp fasteners Wig. Maj. These fit into
top (H). Glue up a %'I·thick panel ami the kerfs in the stretcher.:; and rails. •

a.
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ 50

~6=~=-~,,;~,:+-~--_~-c-~§"-~-~-,,-~-~-~;.
__

-==--- -' ::;.::.:--~-=

- - --- --- 17

0(
--_

~ NOTE T ,I ~'I I
.11'
Toe

\
CUT TOP TO EXTEND
4" ON EACH END AND
11.0" ON BOTH THE I 'I. NOTE:
CENTER
TABLE ..J FRONT AND BACK TABLE TOP
me FRONT
TO BACK
FASTENER
AND SIDE
TO SIDE
jlgl\¥s"
Rh WOOD-
SCREW

NOTE: EVENLY SPACE

u
T11REE FASTENERS ON EACH
STRETCHER AND TWO FASTENERS
ON EACH UPPER RA.lL

60 MISSION PROJECTS

ypically, I like to use a table
saw to cut a bevel on a
workpk.,<:e. But trying to bevel
the bottom side of the sofa
table top created a problem. It
just wasn't safe to stand this
large panel on end and use the
table saw.
The solution was a shop-
made jig that. holds a router at
an angle (Fig. 2). With a
straight bit in the router, it's
casy to rout the bevel.
Note: The nute length on
the bit has to be long enough to
cut the full width of the bevel. Mine was
llN'long.
JIG CONSTRUCTION. The jig consists
of four pieces: a Ience, a bit guard, a
router base plate, and a handle (Fig. 1).
To build the jig. slart with the Ienl-eand
• • • • • • • • • • • • • •
hit guard. First. cut a notch at the center
of the fence to provide clearance for the
bit. 111('11 you can Rlue the bit guard and
fence togelher.
To make this jig work. simply cut an
angle on one end of the fence and bit
... 8eve/ Jig
guard that matches the bevel
you need on your workpiece
(15 c for the sofa table). Then
when you add the base plate, it
tips your router to match the
bevel. 'Ihe %'1 hardboard base
plate is simply screwed into the
fence. Finally, screw a handle
to the fence.
SETTING DEPTH. Since this
jig is designed to cut the bevel
in several passes, you adjust
the depth of cut by pivoting the
auxiliary base (Fig. 3). An
arched slol allows the router
to swing up or down to the required
depth before locking it in position with
a SlTew.
USING THE JIG. Start with the depth
set shallow. Then increase the depth
gradually until ~'our bevel is complete.

f, I" FENDER
WASHER

.....-WASHER

BlTGUARD

FENCE
CENTER NOTCH
ON FENCE

%" HARDBOARD
BASE PLIITE
(TO REPLACE ROUTER'S
, r-
oW x lY,z"
Rh SCREW

PLASTIC BASE PLATE)

\..._--_ .......

START WITH A LIGHT

~HARDBOARD BASE PLATE CUT ON FIRST PASS

; - BfTGUARD
.,

FENCE

WORKPIECE

BOTTOM SIDE
OF WORKPIECf. WORKBENCH

AROiED SLOT
AlLOVv'S ROUTER
TO MOVE UP
NOTE; JIG lAYS FLAT O'DOWN
ON WOflKpjECE FOR LOIAIER ROUTER SIT
MAXIMUM CONTllOL A LITTlE ON EACH PASS
VllHEN ROUTING BEVEL TO REACH FINAL DEPTH

OAK SOFA TA.BLE 61

Glass--Top CoffeeTable
Made ofquartersawn oak, this traditional Mission-style coffee table is enhanced with a
beveledglass top and a series ofnarrow spindles. There's also an option for a solid wood top.
rilling a round hole to create a
D mortise for a square tenon has
always struck me as a bit odd.
But aside from investing in an c.xpen-
sive machine for making mortises, the
only solutions r could come up with in
the past were to round the tenon or to
square up the mortise with a chisel.
Now, if you're only talking about a
few mortises, that's not a big deal. In
fact, it's kind of relaxing. lhar's whatl
did for the spindles on the Sofa Table
shown on page 54.
But 011 this coffee table there are 26
spindles, which means a total of 52 mor-
62 MISSION PROJECTS
liscs to drill and square up. You could
spend the better part of a day on this
part of the project alone.
So [ decided to try something dif-
ferent this time around. The new proce-
dure [ carne up with is both quick and
accurate. (I'll give you a hint - it
doesn't involve using a drill press or a
chisel. Sec the Teehnique on page 70.)
GLASS TOP. But the mortises aren't
the only feature of this t<lble worth men-
tioning. The beveled glass top is also a
little out of the ordinary.
Now at first, I was worried that the
beveled R"lass top would look too
~modern" for this style of table. But
actually, it complements the style by
giving you a clear view of the spindles
[rom just about any angle.
However, if you prefer the look ol a
solid wood top (that matches the one on
the Sofa Table), we've included that as
an option. Sec the Designer's Notebook
on page 71.
MATERIALS. 1\11 the wooden parts lor
the table shown here are quartersawn
while oak, a typical material for
Mission-style projects.
No hardware is required lor this
table other than ordinary woodscrcws.
EXPLODED VIEW
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
38Wx300x17H

'OBACK
W"
CD'

'OSIDE
W"
CD .- CD
"AM
FRON"

""""
END RAIL
®\
!
~
SPLINE /

"'NOLES II ~ ®- -
® Ilil~~
,:~ ~ ,"
!
II, I
"

! ~,

, ,
SHELF l£G
@ ®
MORTISE
"">'5
@
illAT
®
,,-,
END RAIL
©

CUTTING DIAGRAM
MATERIALS LIST
r!4 x 4·48 QUARTERSAWN WIrE OAK (2.7 Bd. Ft.)
WOOD
A Legs (4) 11'"x1%-16%
i-f·,,!.E C=W~
B Upper frld Rails (2) '1~x2-24'h :y" x 5Y.! 84 QUARTERSAVVN WHITE OAK (3.2 Ed. Ft.)
C
D
Lower End Rails (2)
Murli:>e Slrips (4)
%;:;3-24 112
'17;:;%-24'h
F ~ ! - ~ '---L;Z;~2;;:;-~~
E Spindles (26) '!Jxlf,-8% -.j;
Y.> x 3'h - 72 QUARTERSAWN VVHITE OAK (l,8 Sq. Ft.) 0
F Cleats (2)
G Stretchers (2)
¥4xl'/,-17
V4 x2-37'h ~E-%~fttf:jrrelEL~;A(»;/Ji"Wd)f~
H Shelf(1) %;:;22-32 :y" x 5·60 QUARTERSAWN WHITE OAK {2.1 ad. FtJ

l '~;'-=L ,~LZ?2vzca8
I Frame FrlBk. (2) )/. x 3lfl- 38
J Frame Sides (2) %X3ljl~30
K Splines (4) 1/4 )( 1 -1%

HARDWARE SUPPLIES
(1) %' beveled glass, 24· x 32"
(6) #8 x 11ft,· Fh woodscrcws
:y" x 5 -

I ,- I
¥... 4 84 QUARTERSAWN WHITE OAK (2.3"Bdo.c,,",,-_~~c-_~
' :--u
7l QUARTERSAWN WHITE OAK (Two Board5 <0 2.5 Bd. Ft. Each)

_
(18) #8;:;2" Fhwoodscrcws
I_ _~.,~_~L ="'" =,~
:y" x 4 - 7l QUARTl'RSAWN WHITE OAK (2 Bd. Ft)

[ .., " " J [, " ' " " J

GLASS-TOP COFFEE TABLE 63

 _~ 11'<
a,
The coffee table is just two end frames
joined by a top and shelf. And each end
frame has a pair of legs. a pair of rails, ~~
and a row of spindles. I started building : ~
tllCse frames by making the legs.
LEGS. The legs (A) begin as four
squared-up blanks cut from P/l-Lhick
il n
u w.<
'. I liG
CHAMFER
INSIDE
CORNER
'--
stock (Pig. 1). Mer culling the blanks ®
to length, I laid out the mortises for the
rails on each leg (Figs.l andla).
I )
You <:an'tgo wrong laying out the two
j,

~
mortises at the top of each leg -they're
on adjacent faces. But when laying out II 16%
the lower morlise on each leg, pay atten-
tion to the orientation of the legs. The
'I
right and left legs are mirror images of
~ b'r=J 0
onc another (FigR. laud 7n). I lli
! ~{~
To make the mortises, I removed
most of the waste by drilling a row of
overlapping holes on a drill press. Then
I
I
,. 'I
II
Yo'
ROUNDOVER

/
BACK LEFT
TOP VIEW
BACK RIGHT

I used a chisel to dean up the sides.

Once the mortises arc complete, the
legs can be tapered and shaped. A table
" J 'i~
NOTE; ALL
MORTISES ARE
%"-DEEP
AND ARE
CENrERED
FRONT LEFT FRONT RIGHT

saw and a simple Laper jig make quick

work of the tapers on the inside faces of
II ON WIDTH
OF LEGS
each leg (Fig. S). The jig J used is just a
piece of plywood with a hardwood cleat Ii
attached to one end (Fig. Z).
After cUtling the lapers, I routed a
chamfer on the inside corner of each
leg on a router table Wig. -0. But don't
try to chamfer the tapered edge. Just
push the leg straight through the router
table - the chamfer will narrow to a
point at the bottom of the leg (Pig. la).
For the three outside corners of the
leg, I wanted a softer look. So I rouLed 1%
1/4'1 roundovers on the edges, again
using lhe router table (/!'ig.l).
-. I
Finally, to prevent the legs from
splinLering lithe table is dragged across At lhis poin1, r put the legs aside and END RAilS. I (Ul the upper and lower
a floor, r rounded over the bottom edges began work on the other parts of the end rails (B, C) to size from :l/4"-thick
of each leg slightly with sandpaper. end frames. stock first. AJI the rails are 24 t h" long,

TOP VIEW ROUT CHAMFER a, CROSS SECTION

ON INSIDE CORNER OF
NOTE: CUT TAPERS
ON INSIDE FACES -" EACH LEG
- FENCE

I--,,_"'_"G ~
®
/ liG
TAPER 1-
§J~~~~i~~~CHAM~g~~~~~%~'
-'" JIG

NOTE: DON'T ADJUST

:.----~
LEG WHEN ROlmNG ~ BIT
/" CHAMFER ON
TAPERED EDGE
I

64 MISSiON PROJECTS
----~- ~---
but the lower rails are an inch wider
than the upper rails (Fig. 5).
Thc next stcp is to make the mortises {
for the spindles. But instead of drilling ®
holes and squaring them up with a LEG
chisel. Tused a different approach.
MORTISE STRIPS. First, 1 cut a groove
on one edge of each rail (Fig. 6). '111en 1
glued in a strip of wood with a row of
notches (FigH. G and au). Once these
lllorlisc strips (D) arc glued into the
grooves, the notches become mortises.
For more on this technique, see page 70.
TENONS. Arter gluing the strips into NOTE: MORTISE
STRIPS ARE GLUED
the rails and sanding them !lush, tenons INTO RAILS BEFORE
TENONS ARE CVT
are cut on the ends of the mils to fit the
mortises in the legs (Figfl. rand raj. NOTE: CUT 13
Note: 'I1K ends of the mortise strips NOTCHES IN
MORTISE $1'RIP
become part of these tenons (Vi,g. ia). (SEE PAGE 70)
This is why the lenons arc cul after the
mortise strips arc glued in place.
ARCS. On the lower rails.l cutagentle
arc along-the boUom edge ("'(g. N). To
layout this arc, I used a pencil, a flexible
12
straightedge. and a couple of blocks of J-
wood (sec the Shop Tip box below).
I cuI these arcs wilh a band saw and MORTISE
sanded them smooth with a drum STRIP
sander. Bul you could usc a jig saw and @
o
a rounded sanding block.
To complete the upper rails, J drilled
counterbored shank holes in each rail
(Fig. 8). These are for screws that Cvr¥."·W1DE
[astenthe top later. The shank holes arc GROOVE, W DEEP
FOR MORTISE STRlP--
slightly oversize (3/J6"-dia.) to allow
room for wood movement (especially if
you build the solicl wood top).

&J[}{K§;{P 'UtI[2
Drawing an An::
To flex the straightedge and
layout the arcs, clamp a
couple of pointed scraps to
the ends of the rails.
II --30/.1:)
® ",'-D~ ~I"
'----'~i
'"lJ
%"·DIA _._J i DRIU '!-16"-
DIA HOLE
3¥."FROM
, COUNTERBORE
EACH ENO
OF UPPER
~

"'"
I
-
©
-- ",
1--
,\_-
I
WASTE
- ----
• ---
GLASS-TOP COFFEE TABLE 65
 SPINDLES, 'Inc rails and legs arc the
main components of the end frames. But
the spindles are what catch your eye. NOTE: SPINDLES
ME NOT GLUED
Making the twenty-six spindles (E) INTO END RAlLS
isn't difficult, just a little repetitive. 'Inc
spindles arc firs! cuI to size from 112'1_
thick stock (Fig. Da).
Then the tenons 011 the ends of each
spindle are cut with a table saw and
dado blade, rotating each piece a
quarter turn belween pas~s (Fiy. Vb).
To keep the shoulders even and the
\~
shoulder-to-shoulder distance the same
on each spindle, I used a stop block
I
damped to my miter gauge fence.
Normally you would glue up the end CLEATS ARE
frames next. But because the spindles
NOTE:
STAIN SPINDLES
ATIACHED
AFTER END
FRAMES ARE
••
ANO END RAlLS
are so narrow and spaced so closely, I BEFORE ASSEMBLY ASSEMBLED
decided to stain them before assembly.
I also stained the end rails. 'Inis '\Tay, I
I
didn't have to worry about trying to
work the stain in around thc spindles !I,
after the table was assembled.
ASSEMBLY. Don't worry about trying
to assemble all the spindles between
the end rails before the glue scts up.
The spindles aren'l R"lued in place-
I
they're captured between the rails.
T used a two-step procedure to
I""
assemble the end frames. First, I fit the
1
spindles between the rails and held
them in place with band clamps. 'Inen J
glued and clamped the legs to the rails
8 ~/----,.JI'JW
1
(Fig. 10), Not having to worry about
the spindles makes the gluing- up
process a lot easier.
CLAMP STOP BLOCK
TO MITER GAUGE TO KEEP
SHOULDERS OF TENON EVEN
I
-'-
I
CLEATS. /\fter assembling the end
frames, there's still one more piece to
add to each frame - a cleat.
The cleat (F) is attached to the lower Before attaching the cleats to the the shelf (1"ig8.11 and lla).
end rail of each frame to support a shelf end frames, I drilled three :l/lfi"-dia. Thcn I simply glued amI screwed the
Wigs. f) aud 11). These cleats are just countersunk shank holes in caclI cleat cleats 10 the inside of the lower rails
narrow strips of3/~"-thick stock. for the screws that will be used to attach (ft'-;gs.llandllb).

FIRST: BAND ClAMP

SPINDLES BETWEEN
END RAILS

•• ",FtUSH ON TOP

a_
:y,.-..()IA. ,/

? ~§§~/~""JI
~ SHANK HOLE
©"
®
UPPER
END RAlL
~®
~G " b.
,/
\N8x2"
>h wooo.
SCREW

66 MISSiON PROJECTS
With the end frames completed, you're
more than halfway home. All that
remains is to join the two end frames
with stretchers and a shelf, and add a
top. I made the stretchers first so I
could assemble the base and take mea-
surements for the shelf (Fig. lit).
STRETCHERS. Each stretcher (G) is
cut from a piece of 3N'-thick stock. A
tenon is cut on each end to match dlC
mortises in the legs W(q. 1i!(t).
Like the upper end rails, each NOTE: SHELF IS SIZEO
stretcher is drilled and counterbored TO FIT BETWEEN
LOWER END RAlLS
for three screws that will be used to
attach the top (Fig. 12a). a. -.-1' .-. - i ~.v.
SHELF. Aside from holding books or
magazines, the shelf (H) serves
another purpose. It ads as a lower
stretcher, tying the base of the table
®
STRETCHER
-L
L%5~
W-DIA.
,.
T -'
,
.~
I

together. I made the shelf from all over-

• 1.
+
sized, glued-up panel of :\!4"-thick stock.
Note: If you plan to build a solid •~
1!'2-.,! Y,

wood top (see the Designer's Notebook

on page 71) you may also want to glue
up a panel for the top at this time.
Nter gluing up the shell, I ripped it
to finished width (22") (Fig. 1.0. In
order to determine the exact length, I
measured the distance between the
upper end rails (32" in my case). TIlell I
trimmed the ends of the shelf to match
this measurement. GLUE AND
CLAMP STRETCHERS
j
Before attaching the shelf, J took the BEl'NEEN END FRAMES
time to break the sharp edges by
routing a small (J!l6 1P ) chamfer along
the front and back edges (both lOp and To attach the shelf, I placed it on the frames light against the shelf, I drove
botlom) (F'ig.l-4a). (The ends of the cleats and centered it front-to-back. screws up through the cleats into the
shelf are not chamfered.) Then. using clamps to pull the end bottom of the shelf (Vigs. 15 and 15a).

MEASURE DISTANCE
BETWEEN UPPER END
RAlLS TO DETERMINE
II
SHELF
®

EXACT LENGTH OF
SHELF

1'.6" OlAMFER
/ -;( . -
CENTER
SHELF
BE1WEEN
SHELF@ ©
f---"'-<:",,,",C'1//
LEGS SECOND:
INSERT SCREWS
THROUGH CLEATS
INTO SHELF

GLASS-TOP COFFEE TABLE 67

 BEVELED
GLASS _.
'I'he top of the coffee table is somethinJ{
like a pidurc in a frame - il really big
frame. But the ;'picwre" in this case is a
piece of beveled g-lass.
BEVELED GLASS. If you've never
worked with beveled glass before, there
(j) are a couple of things you should know.
'"'0"'
RAM' First off, the piece of glass I used is
fairly large (I/.l" thick and 2~'1 x 32'1). So
don'tcxpcctlo simply run down to your
local hardware store and finn itin stock.
I had to order the beveled glass spe-
a. EDGE OF GLASS r ----- t· BEVEL CROSS SEcnON cially from a local g-Iass shop, and it took
IS FLUSH Vl'lTH FRAME t a week to fill the order. Try looking in
the yellow pages to find a g'1ass shop in
your area.
#8x 2"
Another important thing to know
® - --- Ft1s~ about onlering- glass is that the final
lOP FRAME measurements aren't always exactly
CENTERED
ON BASE what you request. Recause of the Ctlt-
ting and polishing process, the glass
can vary as much as lls'l from what you
specify when you order iL. But this isn'c
a problem as long as you obtain the
glass bef01'e you cut the top frame

, C", , ,'
a·'lf. r:-. /
. /
Dieces to length.
The frame front/back (I) and frame
sides m are cut from ~N'-thick stock.
{
'Il STRAIGHT
,IT t They can be ripped to finished width
,- (31f2"'), but don't cut them to length just
NOTE; DEPTH
" yet. They will be mitered to length a
lilLle later.
OF RAB8ET SHOULD
MATCH EDGE
OF GLASS Before mitering the frame pieces, 1
cut a rabbet on one edge of each piece
(Figs. 17 and .17a), l11is rabbet creates
a ledge for the glass top to rest on.
Note: The rabbet should be deep
a. ~. enough so the beveled edge o( the glass
will sit flush with lhe 1'0p surface of the
\, FENCE frame (IN' in my case) (Pig. I ria).
Yr "
) Then to keep the outside edges of
nco the top from looking too thick and
'<AD,
IS' • heavy, r beveled the underside of each
frame piece (FiYf>. 18 and 18a). I did
this by runninR the pieces through the
table saw on edge ami then sanding off
the saw marks.
Afcer rabbeting and beveling the
frame pieces, they can be mitered to
length to fit the beveled glass (Fig. 19).
Note: To avoid making the oDening
WASTE NOTE: SIZE
FRAME PIECES so for the glass too tight, allow a little extra

AITA~:AR~Y;:~~~~'::'~~
GLASS FITS WITH Y3:.>" (1/161') when figuring the length of the
GAP ON EACH SIDE
frame pieces.
SPLINES, To strengthen the miter
joinL<.;, r alllkl] splines. Rut the splines
FENCE TO MITER serve another purpose as well. 'Illey
GAUGE help keep all the pieces even when
gluing and clamping them together.

68 MISSION PROJECTS
 b.
a. CROSS SECllON

To cut the slots [or the splines, I used

SLOT
CENTER:
ON THICKNESS
\ NOTE OF WORKPIECE
a hand-held router and a sloh'uning bit GOWN
DIRECTION
(Figs. 20 and flOb). Just be sure to stop
the slot shOrt of the edj.{es of the work-
piece (Fig. i!Oa).
Arter routing these slots, I cut the
If;,''-thick spline::> (K) to fit. The thing to
remember here is that in order to get a
strong joint, the grain of the splinc HARDBOARD TEMPlATE
needs to run aC1·().~il the joint line of the
miters Wi!!. 20a).
ASSEMBLING THE TOP. Before gluing
up the top, [ dry-assembled the pieces
and damped them together with band
damps to check the fit of the beveled
glass (Fig. 21). (
Hut because I didn't want to take a FRAME
USE BAND ClAMP TO HOLD
~ECES TOGETHER CHAMFER
chance on breaking the glass. I made a
templateoutofh<lrdboard the same size
'"
as the glass and used lhal to check the
fit instead.
Ollce I was satisfied with the fit ofthe CENTERNOTE,
FRAME ON
'~"";~~D~~~~~~~~:~~~r:~~~~'~"'~';O~F TABLE BEFORE
miters ami the sizc o[ the glass opening. GLASS ATTACHING rTWI"TJ.i
I glued up the top frame pieces and SCR'WS
clamped them back logether. Then I
used the hardboard template to check
the glass Ol)cning one more time with ~cc_'-'

the damps in place.

CHAMfER. As a final detail, J relieved
the sharp edges by routing wry small
(lf16") chamfers all around the edges of
the top (fi'ig.~. 22 and 22a).
To attach the top, I simply centered it
front-to-baek and sillc-to-side. '111en r
drove screws up through the counlcr-
bored holes in the streichers and upper
end rails and into the top (Fi{/. 23).
fiNISH. I stained lhe table with a light
cherry slain and topped it with a tung
oil and urethane combination finish.
After drying, it was rubbed and buffed
to a satin sheen with paste wax.
After the entire table was finished, I
added the glass top. •

GLASS~TOP COFFEE TABLE 69

 • • Simple Mortises
nstead of making individual mortises cut, the blank will be ripped into strips. Next, I cut six more notches Oil one
for the spindles in the coffee table, I ([ made tile thickness of the blank equal side of the center notch Wig. 4). To do
used a different approach. First I cut a the depth of the grooves in the rails.) If this, r simply placed each newly cuL
,groove on one edge of each end rail. you want the slrips to be nearly unde- notch over the key to cut the nt>-xt one.
111en I glued in a "mortise strip." tectable, you can make them from the After cutting the notches on one side,
GROOVES. There's not much to same piece of wood as the rails. 1 turned the piece around and cut six
making the grooves. I cut them in two NOTCHES. To cut the notches, I used Ilotches on the other side of the center
passes, flipping cach rail end for end a dado blade and a table saw. TIl(' trick Ilotch, following the same procedure.
between passes to ensure that the is to keep the notches evenly spaced. To Note: You should end up with a tot'll
grooves will be centered on the thick- do this, I used a simple indexing jig. of.l3 notches.
ness of the workpiece (Figs. 1 andla). To make the jig, clamp an auxiliary RIPPING. Before ripping the strips, 1
MORTiSE STRIPS. The mortise strips fence to the front of the miter gauge. drew a reference line on one end of the
are just narrow strips with notches cut Then cuta dado through the center of the blank (Fig. 5). Later when the rails arc
in them. When glued into the grooves, blank and the auxiliary (ence (Pig. 2). glued between the legs, this line will
they create mol' Uses for lhe spindles. To keep the notches evenly spaced. I help orient the end rails so the mortises
But instead of trying to cut the glued an index key into the notch in the align (Fig. 6).
notches in narrow strips, I started with auxiliary fence (Pig. :2a). Then I read- Note: \Vhen gluing the strips into
a wide blank cut to the same length as justed the fence so the key was 5/g'l from the rails, use a sparing amount of glue
the rails (24 'N I). After the notches are the edge of the blade (Fi.qs. 3 and Sa). to avoid getting any in the mortises.

ATIACH FENCE
TO MITER GAUGE
a. a.
"D
OW, / V,'"
'ND
FENCE
7
,- ., FENCE v'l "Il
. INDEX II
" KE~/ ~Jl
FLIP
WORKPIECE
BETWEEN PASSES TO
CENTER GROOVE ON
" cur NOTCH
Tl'ROUGH CENTER
GL:C::Y INTO
NOTCH IN MITER
GAUGE FENCE
THICKNESS Of STOCK Of BLANK AN
FENCE

SHIFT FENCE
AFTER CUTTING
CENTER NOTCH

SECOND: KEY- cur SIX NOTCHES

ON EACH SIDE OF
PLACE CENTER CENTER NOTCH
NOTCH OVER KEY TO
CUT SECOND NOTCH

REFERENCE MARKS
a. WILL HELP KEEP
END RAlLS
'"
MORTISE
STRIPS FROM
ORIENTED
W'HEN GLUING
BEtWEEN LEGS
BLANK /

NOTE: USE
GLUE - GLUE SPARINGLY
MORTISE

""""
INTO GROOVES
AND SAND FLUSH

70 MISSION PR,OJECTS
Replacing the frame and beveledglass top with a panel built from solid woodgives the
coffee table a more traditional look. And it's a simple addition to build.

co
If you prefer a more traditional look
for your coffee table, you can build a
solid wood lOP instead of the frame
and glass one shown on page 62.
Note: 'Illig version also matches
the Sofa Table on page 51, if you'd
like to build both as a set.
To make the solid wood lop, starl
by gluing up an oversized panel from
WI-thick stock Gust like you did for
the shelf earlier) .
• "When the glue is dry, you can trim
the panel to its finished dimensions
of30" x38",
• After the panel is Ctlt to size, the
boltom edges need to be beveled
like the frame pieces for the glass
top. Hut trying to st1.l1d a panel111is
large on edge and running it
through the table saw could create
numerous problems, even with a
ta.ll auxiliary fence.
So I used a bevel jig with a
hand-held router to produce the same
look. This jig is the same one used for
the top of the Sofa Table. '111e basic con- (see page (0). But this would require below). Then yOll can center the top on
struction and procedure for this jig are cutting kerfs in the upper end rails and the frame and screw it down.
shown on page 61. stretchers, which could be visible if you Note: While the glass lop provides a
• Since you're using a solid wood lop ever wanted to switch to the glass top. convenient surface for glasses and
instead of a frame, you'll need to allow Instead, I made the counterbored other items (since it won't mark or
room for the wood to expand and con- holes in tlle rails and stretchers a little stain), the solid top may require some
tract. To do this, you could use 7.. . larger (almost like a slot) to allow the extra protection. So you may want to
shaped fasteners like on the Sofa Table wood to move (sec detail 'a' in drawing finish it with polyurethane.

Nore
CENTER TOP ON
BASE OF TABLE BEFORE
,- ATTACHING ITVvlTH
S<J""" NEW PARTS
L Solid Top (1) -%x30-38
Note: Do not ne'l:d parts I, J, K. or beveled
glo155.

a. CROSS SCCTION

1---.- #8 x 2"
FhWOOO-
#8xr
FHWOOD-
I
TOP FRAME
SCREW
l ----

~
"'"W CENTERED
ON BASE

GLASS-TOP COFFEE TABLE 71

Mission Bookcase
Built with machinery and handwork, this cherry bookcase features through mortise and tenon joints
for an impressive look. There's also an option for ashorter bookcase without the glass doors.

his bookcase is agand example of

T su-aightforward Mission-style fur-

niture. with sturdy mortise and
through tenon construction, square
pegs, and shop-made door pulls.
When Gustav Stickley started
designing furniture like this in the early
19005, he had the ~common man~ in
mind. Out with the ornate - furniture
should be simrle and functional. The
result was the Mission style (sometimes
called "Craftsman" style furniture).
MACHINE AND HAND TOOLS. nut
Stickley was not just concerned with
design. Furniture also had to be built in
the tradition of the master craftsman.
His furniture was built with a combina-
tion of machinery and handwork.
That's what 1 like most about this
bookcase. It's built in the same tradi-
tion. Heavy and repetitive tasks (cut-
linR, planing, and drillin~") can be done
by machine, while the finer details (the
through tenons, square pegs, and door
dividers) require carerul handwork.
The whole process reflects Stickley's
concern [or quality and craftsmanship.
WOOD. You might be surprised to
see that I uscd cherry to build the book-
case. Much of the Mission-style furni-
ture was originally built out of quarter-
sawn oak. Unt after doing a Hille
research, I discovered that cherry was
used by Stickley as well.
J thought the brass ball-tipped
hinges I wanted to use would look good
with the cherry, once the wood dark-
ened to a deep brownish-red.
FINISH. To protect the bookcase, I
brushed on four coats of a tung oil and
urethane combination finish. While this
isn't an authcntic :\1issiol1 finish, I did
follow Stickley's techni<]ue in a way. I
waxed the bookcase after the finish hat!
set a few days (to give it lime to cure).
1 applied several coats of a high with a colton doth and let it dry for a SHORT OPEN BOOKCASE. For a dif-
quality paste wax. The one I found was a few minutes. (Several thin coats arr ferrnt look (and a simpler project), see
mi..xture of carnauba and bccswax. easier to apply than one thick one.) the shorter bookcase without doors in
To apply the wax, wipe on a thin layer 'll1ell buffitto a ~hine with adeandoth. the Designer's I\otebook on page 8,7.

72 MiSSION PROJECTS
EXPLODED VIEW
OVERALL DIMENSIONS: SHOR'
VERT.
48W x 140 x 59H DIVIDER
CD Toe
SIDE
RAR
r",r
r
a. CROSS SECTION

...
1
~

I
.J @

, ClEAO
r. c-

i II '--© FRONT
RAie
I
:I
I"
. .
I I BACK
PANEL
®
'I ,! I
,
LONG
I
VERT.
" I
r DMDER SHELF
(j) I DOOR
(j)
.. . .. ! .J I
SmE
@

~JI,
, I' I .....
I
.~
, SHELF
• CASE
BOTTOM
STANDARD
® --@

,I @j ~DE
PANEL
. .. GLASS
50""
@ .••.
. ,
I'Ii DOOR

II PEG

LOWER
©..
~'~OM
~I:
OOOR
RAie
I.
"' @.._-
FRONT
: !
SIDE
RAIL

.
,
. 1
AF'RON
I •
CD·
(-11 i
"

SIDE
• ,
IU L
PEG
\ PW"
L I;j)
ClEAT
'-CD

MATERIALS UST
CASE DOORS HARDWARE SUPPLIES
A Side Panels (4) 'hply -9YI~x44Jh6 o DoorSliles(4) lx2'%z-5l71s (8) No.6 x sts" Fh woodscreW'S
B Pilnel Cores (2) 'k hOW. - 90/,6 X44o/1t P Upr. Door Rails (2) lx3'f7-19!fs (12) No.6 xl" Fh woodscrcws
C Posts (4) H 4 xH4 -58 Q Lwr. Door Rails (2) 1 x 5" 19% (23) No.8 x 1'1;" Rh woodscreW'S
o Top Side Rails (2) lx3'h-l1% R Horiz. Divid. (2) 'hx1-1:,'Ie (3 pr.) 2'h" x 2" ball-tipped hinges wi
e Iltm. Side Rails (2) lx9'h-l1% S Long Ver. Divid. (2) '!lxl-M'/e screW'S
F Back Rails (2) 3/4x 3v;'-41'h T Shorl Ver, Divid, (4) 'hxl-l1~/'b (4) Double-ball door catches wi screws
G Front Rail (1) =/4 x 3112 - 421j~ U Door Pegs (16) 3{gx3{g- '3/·6 (12) Shelf pins
H FrontApron(l) .i!4x3%-41'h V Door Pulls (2) "1~x 1'10-4 (100) Sfa" wire brous
t Plugs (4) %xlh-2 5h6 W Glass SlOPS (1) 3fa x -'Is - 20 ft. rgh. (2) 15%" x 44" glass panes·
J Side Pegs (12) 3fsx%-1~'h6 • Usc Va' -thick tempeIT'd glass, Have the
K Back Panel (1) 'hply-41lfzx49lfl STANDARDS & SHELVES glass cut to fit the opening on the back of
l CaseTop(l) lx14-48 X ShclfSlandards(4) 'fax 1-45'12 f'ach door, minus Vs" in both length and
M Cleats (2) lxl-40% y 5helves(3) 1 x 10%-40 7116 width, so it will fit easily_
N Case Bottom (1) 1 x l1V~-41V4

MISSION BOOKCASE 73
CUTTING DIAGRAM

1 x 7 - 72 {4.4 Bd. Ft.}

[2Z272dZV72
lxS-72 (3.1 Bd.Ft.l
2722//272~0272'{:Vi/7 727272222 7 Z7 2l 7 2 7,'7 Z 2.
L, ,P"" ,;;JffflT~~~;;t;;;)ff~JI~&u
r'~"~:5,~":,:,,, F,'" " " " " " ,3 ~
NaTE: AlSO NEED ONE 4' XS' SHEET Ii" PLYWOOD, ONE 2' x 4' SHEET \Is" HARDBOARD
:I -
_A_U _

To build this Mission bookcase, J

!4tartcd by making" the framed side
SIDE PANEl COflE
~~
---->-<C'-~E
';>®

units. Each unit consists of two posts,
two rails and a panel a!->sembly (refer to
Fig. 2 on opposite page). J built up the
panel assemblies first.
When making a framed panel, [ gen-
erally use plywood for the panel. I;nlike
solid wood, plywood isn't drastically
affected by changes in humidity.
1designed each side unit (0 have 111"_
thick plywood panels with two good
sides. (Both the inside and the outside
of each panel will be seen when the pro-
ject is completed.) Unfortunately,
finding 112'1 cherry plywood with two
good faces isn't easy. And it would also
be quite expensive.
A simple solution to Lhis problem
was 10 cut two separate pieces of 1/.1"
cherry plywood to make each panel
(Fig. O. Then these side panels (A) can
be set back-la-back so there are two
good sides visible.
C:®
('"," HARDBOARD)
Note: All the plywood pieces ror this
project can be cut from one 1x8 sheet of
ljlplywood.
Rut there's still a problem. Most 1/4 11
hardwood plywood is quite a bit less
th<Jn 1/4" thick. TIle plywood luscd was
actually only a hair over :l/16" thick.
So, Lo get the panelsc10ser to a thick-
ness of llzl' (they don't need to be exact
- -C:" PANELS
t (1.:<" PL'tWOOO)
NOTE:
MAKE lWO SIDE
PANEL ASSEMIlUES
since you'll cut grooves to fil them
later), I sandwiched a I/ll"-thick piece of
hardboard between the pands to serve
as a panel core (B) Wiy. 1).
Note: The three layers (or each side
panel could be glued together. But this
is not necessary. The frames built
around the panels will hold them
logether just fine.

74 MISSION PROJECTS
 D

'When the side panels are complete, a

gj~ '[ffi[P Frame Assembly
grooved frame can be built to fit around When making framed panels, grooves
each side panel. are usually cut in the frame to fit the ROUND OVER
) ,- EDGES so PANEL
First. 1cut all the pieces for both side panel. But that doesn't mean it will go SLIDES INTO
frames (Fig. 2). The posts (C) arc cut together easily. ...L __ GROOVE EASIER
from P/4'I·thick stock, and the top (D) If either piece is twisted or bowed, /.//L.
and bottom side rails (E) from 1" stock. ,.~
getting them together can be difficult.
GROOVES. The grooves in the posts To make it easier to assemble and ,.--
and rails must match the thickness of avoid tearout on the edges of the
the panel. And the grooves should be grooves, I first round over the edges of I
centered on each piece. the panel with a sanding block.
Since the posts and rails are different
thicknesses, each requires its own
setup [oeul the grooves. Ilcrc, you have
two options. You can resct the fence, or
keep the fence in tile same position but
clamp a shim to it (refer to Pig. 5).
q;:p - ,. a. CROSS SEcnON
r-
To find the thickness of this shim.
figure the difference between the thick-
ness of the posts ami rails Cf4" in my
case). 'lllCll. divide this number by two.
~
00'
I
OO ©
TOP VlE'vV
I
TO<'
RAJ,
@
RAJ,
\1y shim ended up %'1 thick (Fig. 5). 1"dY.!' © In
SETUP. To cut the grooves, I first l1WLONG END V1E'vV
mounted a :IN' dado blade in the table :...-/
saw and raised it %" (Fi,g. 8). Then I set IU
NOTE:
the fence so the blade was slig-htly off- C<\ ,I
CUT ALL GROOVES
TO MATCH ..' ,
center on the piece.
I cut each groOVE' in two passes, nip-
ping the board between each pass
I ©
"'SO
\..' • ~ PANEL
ASSEMBLY
THICKNESS
OF PANELS I

(Fig.~..1 and 4). (rlipping the piece cen-

ters the groove.)
I
lv.,- xl%"
SS" LONG "-l.
®
Note: Test the setup first with a
scrap piece. I BOTTOM
RAie

Once the groove is cut, check if the

""""I ®
I,
Q~ ~-~
panel fits. If you need la, adjust the
fence and make another test cuL ~-®
CUT GROOVES. When the test piece BOTTOM
RAie
fits, cut the grooves on the four posL..,. 1" x9\?"
11WlONG
Next, to cut the grooves in the top
EN'ovlEW
and bottom rails, either reset the fence
or add the shim (Pig. 5).

WDAOO TO CUT SHIM

CLAMP RAILSTO FENCE "-:»>-s::l'"n
,
BlADE (OR RESET FENCE)

FllP f'1ECE
END FOR END
BElWEEN PASSES

FINAL WlDTH OF
a. SETDAOO
SllGHTLY a. Ii"~'il GROOVE MUST MATCH a.
OFF-CENTER THICKNESS OF •
PANELS
, FUP PIECE
'"
FENCE '. W
SHIM
END FOR. END
BETWEEN
\ PASSES

"
,
,

MISSION BOOKCASE 7S
 aUND
TENONS h
(FIT INTO
BACK POST) .-
BOTIOM RAil
- 1
I-~ -. ,-
t;",
I
~=='=~~hh"'~~ TOP RAIL
®-~
THROUGH
TENONS
rlT THROUGH
~._
4.
,
9)1,

I
.->-_

-L"~~~~~~~7-- 'ONTPOSTS'__ ...l.

\- (~~I?Nb '- ~R~t?SH I fl------~~~-l
BACK P051) (FIT Tl-lROUGH -----..; 1'41--
FRONT POSTS)
~ 1l!l I- t

TENON=.S _
STEP 1 BliND TENON STEP 2

The mortises and through tenons on the

bookc<lsc demand careful handwork. but '7= FINAL THICKNESS p=
- -- ~

OF TENON W.
you actually get to Mle the joint. (For (1110 SHOULD FIT
more on this joint, St..'C page &1-.) '"
FENCE
GROOVE
IN POSTS
,Ie
FENCE
1---(,
,
- ._- -- "'-.,
--
I usually start with the morlises, but
this time I worked backw;mls. The "--. - - @® -~
-~ %
-
-
tenons arc cut first to fit the grooves cut
inlhe posts. Like a mortise, the grooves
act as a gauge for sizing the tenons.
TWO TENONS. There are two dif-
D""" __

BlAO' r
I
FT
-

~
ferent lenRth tenons on each rail (Fiy. (j).
On the front is a long Lenon that fits STEP 1 TIiROUGH TENON STEP 2

throu/{h a front post. 'Ille tenon in back -- -

stops short ill a typical (blind) mortise. J?= FINAL THICKNESS

Of TENON
;= -
TWO STEPS. '111e setup for both rails SHOULD FIT

I--- " ~
GROOVE
is the same (Fi.q.~. i and 8). First, cut I- " -,
the check of thc lcnon (St.ep I). (Te~t
IN POSTS
-, - -- -
-
~-

the lit with a scrap piece before cutting

on the rails.) Next, Ret the piece on edge
--
- @@ -- ~ ,

and cut the tenon to width (Step i). ,

o .::S::- _
~ r"'
'"" I'" --!.--- /"
a.
I~ J
When all the tenons are 1..'111, it's time to cut
:-
I\
mortises in the posts. Again, there are
two types ofmortises: through and blind. ." '1'8
All the mortises arc !h(~ same width
as the grooves for the panels, This
~
~ --~
..... ---- FRONT
THROUGH
MORTISE

~-
makes the setup easy. JuS! position the 'UND -
MORTiSES • POST
(l;<';"·DEEP)
post so a IN'-dia. drill bit is centered in
the /:,Tfoove. 'Ihen clamp a fence to the THROUGH
MORTISES
~\
NOTE:

II)
drill press 1:<,ble so it's againsl the posL DON'T DRILL
, MORTISE FOR
BLIND MORTISES. After laying out APRON INTO

~
THROUGH
each mortise, I drilJed the blind ones in 'ACK MORTISES I
POST
the back posts first (Fir;. 9). (Drill them

~ ~l~
151161' deep to allow '/llt for excess glue.) © ,;
THROUGH MORTISES. When the mor- "'-.. CENTER
tises in the back posts arc complete, drill MOAnSE MORTISE
mortises through the front posts. m ONI'OST m,
Y. t';,
Note: Drill the$e mortises halfway
through from bOLh sides 10 avoid chipouL. f'-!
3"¥, - ---
/ APRON

~----' ~J
!

MORTISES FOR APRON. There's one

more seL of mortises to cut in the fronl
1~(
Co-- ~

'N,
"~ I-
posts. An apron that joins the front
posts at the bottom requires 'h"-widc
by 9/li/-deep mortises (Fly..9).
""',- VV

76 MISSION PROJECTS
U & APRO'----_
a.
Before the side units can be put
together, there must be some way Lo
-~
,"@
('_ ® BACK RAIL
connect them. So next I cut out the FRONT t.-:,4
pieces that conned the units.
RAIL
Jj.," x 3J1l
42\t,;" LONG
V =-
CUT TO SIZE. Begin by clltting two
back rails (1') and a fron! rail (G) to size
(1"0. 10). Then cut out a frontupron (TI).
(WITH TENONS)
l
Note: The width of this apron should
match the morLises in the posts - the
apron doesn't have a top or boUom
shoulder (refer Lo Pig. l5a).
""J<
IWC
Wx3Yl:"
411'.:" LONG
c:::
RABBffi
HOLD
BACK
;;;
(WITH TENONS) PN>lEL
RABBETS. To hold these pieces, [rab-
beted some of the side unitpicccs. First, (4)
each top side rail CD} is rabbeted on the I
top inside edge to hold the front rail b• ATTACH FRONT RAIL
W1TH#6xl"Fh
(Figs. lob and 11). 'NOODSCREI/II'S
Then the two back posts (C) arc ntb-
beted on the back inside edges to hold
the back rail and the back panel (added
later) Wi,qs.l0aand H!),
The back rails (F) also hold the back NOTE:
panel in place. So, I rabbeted the back WlDn-i OF
APRON
edges of these rails too Wig. IJ). ®) MATCHES
LENGTH OF FRONT RAIL
Note: All thcSl.~ pieces don't end up FRONT MORTISES IS SET BACK
""'ON I" FROM
identical - they're actually miJTored. ~"x3W FRONT
41Y:!"LONG
So to keep them straight, lTlark the (lMTH TENONS) ' " "OS'
pieces before you cut the rabbet~.
TONGUES. The next step is to cut
tongues on the pieces that will connect
the side units (Fir;. 10). Rabbet the ends ners so it will fil around the front posts A1{ain. you're creating tongues on the
of the back rdils (F) and the front rail (pigs. lOb and 14)' When in place. the ends. Hut this time. [hey (it the mortises
(G) (Fig/;. 13 and L~). The tongues rail should set back 1" from the front. in l,he posts.
should fit the rabbets in the side pieces, 'lllis aJlows the rail to ad as a door stop. The apron also has a ,gentle arc on
After these rabbets <Ire CUI, the fronl RABBET APRON. The last pieee to the bottom that can be laid out and cut
rail needs to be notched at the front cor· rabbet is the front apron (H) (Fig, 15). at this time (Fiy.l,5a).

FIRST. SECOND:
CUTAABBm NOTCH FRONT COIlNERS
ON ENDS TO FIT AROUND POSTS
SEE FIG. lOb

,.
'-@
TOP SIDE RAIL
"-@
FRONT RAIL

, BACK POST
(BACK VIEW1
©
)
.;
f'
"I" a. LAY OUT ARC WITH
FLEXIBLE STRAIGHTEDGE
INSIOE "" n---=====-"'-,---1
fACE

X~
,~ 20v..
1?-'

MISSION BOOKCASE 77
C AS '[be top of the posts will be covered by chamfers Oil the ends of all the tenons.
the case top later. This ~dresses up" the through tenons,
The bookcase is almost ready to be Note: Make sure you don't cover the giving them a finished look. And on the
assembled. But first, I added some mortises already cut in the posts. tenons that fit' the blind mortises, the
small details. CHAMFERS. The next step is to rout chamfers allow room for excess glue.
TIle first step is to fill the grooves at 118" chamfers on the bottoms of all the SANDING BLOCK. There arc a
the bottom of the posts (Fig. 16). To do posts (Fig. 17}.111is has two benefits. It number of ways to chamfer the tenons. I
this, I cut a plug (I) to fit each groove. gives the posts a finished look, and it decided to make a simple sanding block
also helps mini- that chamfers both edges at the same
mize splintering time (Fig. 18).
if the case should To make the block, I cut a groove in a
ever be dragged piece of scrap with the dado blade set
PLUG SHOUlD across the nODI'. :lfR" deep. ThE' width shoulci E'llualthe
FIT GROOVE
BELOWTHE
BOTTOM
MORTISE I
,
Another thing
r did was to sand
thickness of the tenon minus 1/1/. This
will create a 1/16" chamfer on both sides

I[ fiRST:
ASSEMBLE SIDE UNIT
I, ,
seCOND:
DRILL W HOlES II'" DEEP
AND CHISEL SIDES SQUARE THIRD:
I CUT PEGS TO
FIT HOLES
©
POST
(j)
PlUG

SAND TOP &

BOTIOM ENDS
TO MATCH

~M~

, a.~
a.
,. PEGS STAND
PROUD%"
1¥."
... \
, -'"
i
W,'x 7"
PIECE OF SCRAP
\
«
GROOVE
SHOULD MATCH l",
;r---1
I::II-.- .
'0'~I
ADHESIVE-BACKED) THICKNESS OF
SANDPAPER TENON MINUS %"

. . . . . . . . . . . . Scraping and Sanding Corners

Normally Ilike using a
hand scraper and sanding
block for scraping and
sanding. But on a frame
and panel, it can be hard
to get right down into a
corner with a scraper or
typical sanding block,
Instead, I use two tools
shaped for the job.
To scrape out a corner, I
use a razor blade from a
utility knife (Fig. 1). It
works great for scraping
away glue smudges and
dried beads of glue,
To use the razor blade,
hold it at an angle and push
or pull it with the grain of
the wood - just like a
hand scraper. Never scrape
across the grain. And
always push or pull the
i ~ WHEN
HOLD AT ANGLE
SCRAPlNG
blade in the direction it's beveled ends and beveled
angled. (This way it won't sides (Fig. 2). The pointed
cut into the workpiece.) ends allow me to get the
To sand a corner, I make sandpaper right up against
a sanding block with the corner.
BEVELED EDGES AllOW
SANDING BLOCK
TO GET INTO
CORNER
j

78 MISSION PROJECTS
 . . . . . . .... . ....... Adding Decorative f!::gs
Once, a long tenon needed around the top end. set the pegs at a consis- hardwood (Fig. 4). Then I
to be pinned in a mortise. The pegs look best if tent height automatically, spread glue in the holes,
But with improved wood they stick out %' beyond I made a depth stop with and used the stop to
glues, a peg just has to the face of the frame. To a hole from %"-thick finish tapping in the pegs.
look good. Careful work is
the key to this decoration. LAY OUT MORTISES
ON GOOD FACE
The procedure is similar OF LEG
to cutting a mortise and
tenon. Layout the mortise
on the outside face of the
" ,
DRILL HOLE
INSIDE LAYOUT
stile (Fig. 1). Then drill MARKS SQUARE UP
inside the marks to a con- SIDES OF
MO<\TISE
sistent depth, and square
up the corners of the mor-
tise with a chisel (Fig. 2).
For the pegs, cut a long DRILL ~"·DEEP
(HOLE
strip about 1132" thicker
\ a. DEPTH STOP
SmPEGSTO
than the width of the
mortise. (You want a tight
tit.) Then cut the pegs
from it (Fig. 3).
PEG TO
rur
FIT SNUGLY
e SAME HEIGHT

<J>.IN MORTISE
Sand the buried end of
each peg to a taper, and - DEPTH STOP
sand a decorative chamfer

of lhe tenon (J'~i{]. 180). :-Jext, I tilted lhe BACK PANEL Nter the case is assem- the back of the case (Fig. 20). But don't
blade to 45° and beveled both sides of blecl, J cut a back panel (K) from III nail Ule panel in yeL It's easier to work
the groove. cherry plywood to lit in the rabbets in on the inside ifit's not in place.
To usc the sanding block, stick adhe-
sive-backed sandpaper on the b('veled
e<lges (or use standard sandpaper and
l·ubbcrcemenl).
Then sand the tenons. Check lhem
®-----. '
BACK PANEL............ I
often lo make sure the chamfers arc 14"PlY-4Wl"x49\'l ~ _ ..

consistent. After the tenon "bottoms "

out~ on the block, santi the top and NOT£;
DON'T SECURE BACK
bottom ends to match, using a regular PANEL AT THIS TIME
S<lnding block.
ASSEMBLE THE SIDE UNITS. To
I '
assemble the case, I beR"an by gluing up a. #6x1"Fh
the side units (Fig. 1.')). WOODSCRE1J"6 CUT BACK PANEL
PIN TENONS. After both side units are TO FIT CASE OPENING
assembled, their tenons can be pinned
(Fi{/. 19ft and the Shop Tip box above).
First, drill and square up the holes.
Next, cut pegs m to fit them. 'lncn glue
lhe pegs in place so they stand 1/1',"
proud of the faces of the posts.
ASSEMBLE THE CASE. To connect the
two side units, glue the front apron (H) ATTACH I
'\.,
between them and dry-assemble all the BACK 2\1,
lAlfR
other rails (Fig. £0). After the front INTTH';\,"
apron dries, remove each of the rails MRE
BRADS
and drill shank holes and pilot holes.
'111C1l glue and screw them back in place
(refer to Fi,rJl'!. IOh nwi zOo).

MISSION BOOKCASE 79
 -
_______-r-_ ,,_ :j
~_~ 48 ~ The next step is to add th~ ease top and
-:-.i bonam. First, glue up enough til-thick
-~_..-----
r ··,.-rrIT
C a. FEN<>
L_ stock to make both panels ("\fJ8. 11 and
K bCHAMFER
,2.~). Now, cut the case top (l,) 4" long-er
- ,IT and 2" wider (han the case (Fig. :!I).
, 't I I Rout chamfers on the top and boUom
CASE TOP
-''---- - -
OiAMFER TOP AND
- BOTTOM EDGES
(EXCEPT SACK)
,<
I' ('(lges (exceptthe back) (Pig. 21a).
I" x 14" x48" In the (ront, thc case lop is screwed
to the front rail (refer to rig. :Ma). In
the back it's secured with a deal.

~ @-~
CLEAT
'"xl·x40'q"
(MAKE lWO)

~
~
'"
•
a.Y,,"SHANK
HOLES
j I
,
CLEAT. first, cut the deat (M) to lit
between the back posts (Fi,q. 22). (Make
two - you 'n use one for the bollom shelf
later.) Then drill two sets of counter-
fIT".
:.----~
~ ALL SHANK HOLES
SHOULD BE
EVENLY SPACED
COU~~BORE$
'¥M," DEEP ' - ~
1 bored shank holes in the top cleat
(Fig. 2.la). One set is used to allacb the
deat flush with the top edge of the bac.k
raiL The other will secure the top.
A 14"-wide top will expand and con-
tract quile a bit wilh seasonal changes
a. OVERSIZE SHANK HOLES
AlLOW TOP TO EXPAND
in humidity. So rather than fight it, I
_.--0 TOWARDS FRONT decided to allow the panel some
. ~~ freedom to move by drilling oversize
~.--:~ !-oJ shank holes in the front rail. This way,

, fI8 x 1Yl Rh
Z
~T ®'
FRONTRAJL l,
the case top stays flush with the back of
the case, but it can still expand toward
• the front without splitting-.
\----- I·TI ~- ,
,WOODSCREW
CROSS SECTlON
I

The bottom of the case involves a bit

more work than the top. Begin by cut-
CASE BOTTOM ting the case bottom (N) to fit between
1" x l1y,," x 411,,. 41%
the side panels (A) (FifJ'~' z4 (wrl:!.?).
®>----------
,
NOTCHES. To fit in the case. eat.;h
corner must be notched (Fig. i5). The
notches at the fronl corners are J/s"
wider (l"i/.<;") than the posts (Fig. 24).
The notches at the back are only 1'1
ROUT-) wide (rig. .l.&-). This creates a tiny g-ap
CHAMFER AROUND so the bottom can expand toward the
see DETAIL a FRONT EDGE
back (refer to Fig. 26n).
~----- l\ote: To get a clean cuI, r first
scored the notches with a razor knife.
Then r used the miter gauge with an
a-i I
auxiliary fence and cut them with the
panel st.anding on edge.
GROOVE. The next step is to cut a
N<=
DRILL OVERSIZE HOLES groove on the case boUom to fit ovcr Ole
IN CLEAT SO
BOTTOM EXPANDS front apron (Fir!. 24a). Then, rout a
TOWARDS BACK chamfer around the front. edR"c.

I ,
I,
,"
,
ClEAT.I,ike the case top, the bottom
requires a clcat (M) (Fig8. 23! and (!!i).
But there are two differences. First., the
cleat isn'lflush with the back rail. It's 1"
down from the top.
• GLUE BOTTOM
TO FRONT
CROSS SECTION Also, the shank holes should be
slightly oven;ized to allow for move-
• APRON ONLY
ment (Pig. ];;a).

80 MiSSiON PROJECTS
D DOOR DIVIDERS. All the dividers in
the doors arc more for appearance than
You might want to add Lhe shelves next.. anything else. 'lnal's because the glass
But t.o position the top shelf so it hides for each door is installed in one large
behind the divi(h~rs in the doors, it piece - not individual panes.
makes sense to build the doors first. To make the door dividers, first cut
FRAMES. To begin, cut l"·thick door the l/:/'-thick horizontal dividers (R)
stiles (0) and upper W) and lower door and long vertical dividers (S) to fit
rails (Q) to fit the case opening (Fig. iW). between the rabbets in the frames
Note: The final size of both doors (Fig.'!. 28 and ]9). Then cUllhc short
should allow a 1116'1 gap between the vertical dividers (1).
case and the doors on all four sides. HALF LAPS. '1l1C dividers are joined to
'111e door frames arc joined together the door frame and to each other WiUI
with mortises and tenons (Fiy. 26). half laps (F(I}'3. 3&t and 28b). So first, I
After each frame is assembled, rabbeted the ends of a11111c pieces.
rabbet the back for the gla;:;s (Fi.g. 97), Note: Just rabbet. one {~nd
l11en chisel the corners square. short vertical dividers.
t\cxt, I cuI halflaps in the horizontal
dividers (Vig. 281J). Then I cUl llw
mating half laps in the vertical pieces
(on the face opposite the rabbet).
DIVIDER ASSEMBLY, !\OW, glue the
dividers together, Then set the
assembly in the rabbets in the door
frame and mark the location of each
divider (Fig. 29).
To ~et the assembly I1l1sh with Lhe
front of the door, you'll need to cui mol'"
tises in the rabbets (Fig. £9a), Once
they fiL, glue them in place,
PEGS. To complete the doors, pin
each tenon with (wo door pegs (II)
of the (Vig. 26). These are shaner than the
side peR's, bUI still extend out 1/;;".

I;i! ~•. ~1 a.
fl. IjI.-~". -~jl 1 , • '1\';>
·'1
CUT
MORTISES
2\16" DEEp;
2\';" LONG ,,<
) 3J?./ ) "~
I ®
UPPER @- ©
I DOOR NOlt:

'-
DOOR
!WL PEGS
'1l,;"~A"
'- \"··oJ I ,\0) CHISEL RABBET
SQUARE
I NG) ,) IN CORNERS
\
I NOTE:
", DOOR FRAME (
IS I" THICK
@
DOOR
b. ,
/'-
"'~ a.
LoweR @
DOC«
!lAIC '''' l ,"

I
©\
J
; , , .. -~"'~
" 1 f"\@
I ".'
f La. r:J !:TIJ
~)
i ------;/3
-~1
CUT MORTISES
2'/,,;" DEEP;
4" LONG
"

-..
,%
"'
FIRST:
SET DIVIOERS IN RABBETS
AND MARK L00\TION
OF MORTlSES
, I .-@ MITER
l...:~ FENCE
y, ., , ,;.II I
Yl I 3~j ,
-1~
\.3Y.P: ' .. I
I \.. DADO BLADE
1

'"I b.
(j)/
SHORT
@--_. VERTICAL
DIVIDER
LONG
VERTICAL
DIVIDER
"""', I
ALL PIECES
®J
HORIZONTAl
SECOND:
CHISEL OUT MORTISE
SO DIVIDERS ARE FLUSH
J?" THICK THIRD:
DIVIDER WITH FRONT OF DOOR
i GLUE DIVIDER IN DOOR

MISSION BOOKCASE 81
 The safest way to make these glass corners (Pig. ,12). It's tougher to
stops is to start with an extra·wide remove mitered stops later, but they
At this point, the doors should lit with a (lIN') blank and rout the chamfer first. look belter than butt joints. To deter-
lItG" gap between the case and each Then come back and rip the pieces to mine the correct lell~>1.hs, I find it's cw,-
door. The doors still need to be trimmed final width (%") off the waste side of iest to measure for each one individu-
though - 1 didn't allow for any gap the blade. ally and then creep up on the linal cut
between them yet. I found it easier to The glass stops are mitered at the until they just fit.
mount the doors firsl. Then come back
later and remove and trim them to
create the center gap. fIf a.
MOUNT HINGES. The baJl-tipped ~ ~2"HINGE CROSS SECTION
hinges 1 used created a l/lr,1l gap when
mortised and mounted flush with the I
II==---== ©
DOOR
~.
posts and the doors.
:c-- \ ! ·~m '""
To mount the hinges, first layout ATIAcr...J r --
their locations on the posts and the
doors (Fig. HO). Then cut out most of
DOOR
CATCHES
BENEATH
I;
'I -,
1«-"]
f-.--=
=
f:J ---~
FRONT RAIL
I _J 'l- I - • DOOR CATOI
the waste with a router. And clean up y/
the shoulders with a chisel. ("'- " (' ,I
After drilling pilot holes, you can
install the hinges and mount the doors
in place (Fig. Bah).
MAR<
LCXAT10N OF
HORIZONTAL
DOOR
, '''' I
t. I
bl I Iii 11J
"'"
<\l
.,.J
~.?
DOOR
TRIM DOORS. Now the center stiles
DIVIDER
'" ,f--- '", "'''
@
1"-

'~~ "-'
ON " ' "
of each door can be trimmed. To do this, i.'1 ,
determine how much needs to be I , ,
I
''t •

-
lrimmed to create a J/16" gap. Then, to MOO", I
keep the doors identical, I removed HINGES
flUSH • I ,
them and planer! the same amount off
each door. (l used a hand plane, but a
Pam
AND 'I I, I
~
STILES
joinler will also work.)
ADD CATCHES. >Jext, reattach the ,} c.
doors and mount the catches to hold
them closed. Since any door can have a
V~ ,J' , CENTER CATCHES'
AT TOP AND 't
1
\"- --....... ~
w.~
tendency to twist, I installed double-ball BOTTDMOf
DOOR STILES
catches at both the top and bottom of ~d7'"
each door (Fig!!. .'100, and gOe).
REMOVE DOORS. To add the door ""---- DOUE!LE-BAU
DOOR CATCH
~DOOR"
"

pulls and the glass, I found it easicst to

remove the doors once again. But first, I
marked thc position of the horizontal
dividers on the inside faces of the
corner Jlosts (Fig. 80). (Later, these
marks will show you where to position
the top shelf.)
ADD DOOR PULLS. At this point I
added the door pulls. To do this, first I
•
•
•
•
. GLASS
STOPS
%("x~TOCK rr==~G~LAtS~S=",,"
W-THICK
TEMPERED

!
cut a mortise in the front of each door to ..
accept a pull (Fig. 310,). 'l1wn I made
my own door pulls (V) (see the Shop
. 'Pl'•

J
Tip box on the opposite pagc) and glued
them into the mortises.
GLASS STOPS. !Ill that's left to add to
III
~~~
the doors is the glass. Of course you
don't want to add the glass until after
t""l
the case has been filli"hed, but now is a
good time to cut the glass Sh)11>; (W).
r."
DEEP I/.'
I

![ i;;J
"'./,iJ.~
'l1lC glass stops are cut to finished @
dimensions of :IN' x 'J/8". Then a 45° DOOR
PULL
chamfer is cut along one comer to pro-
vide a flat face to nail 5!R"~long wire
brads into (Pi(j. 320,). II II

82 MISSION PROJECTS
At this point, you're almost done with ROUT%." ,
CHAMFERS~---;:"--lll
the bookcase. The shelves are all that
are kft. They rcst on spoon-style shelf SHELF
pins that lit into shelf standards. STANDARD
'ill" x I" ~4Sy,-
SHELF STANDARDS. To make the stan·
dards, start by cutting four 5/a"-thick
®
shelf standnrds (X) to fit between the
'---
top and bottom side rails (Fig. ,J;J).
Note: Add 2'1 for the rabbets that will
be cut on the cnds.
!\OW, cut a 1'I-long rabbet on both
ends of cach standard (Fig. JSa). Set
the standards in place and mark the
position of the Lop shelI (Fi,q. ''/4). (It
should line up behind the horizontal
door dividers.)
SHELF PIN HOLES. Before attaching
the standards to the sides, drill the
holes for the shelf pins (Fig. 33). (You
can drill additional holes if you want.
This will allow you to adjust the posi- shelves, measure from the rabbet for Finally, chamfer the top and bol1.om
tions of the shelves later.) the baek panel to the back of the door. cd,lol'cS of the shelves and set each of
SHELVES. For the shelves 00, glue up Then subtract IN'. In my case, this them in place.
three 1"-Ulick shelf blanks and cut them came out to be 105N'. BACK PANEL. The last step Oil the
to length so they fit loosely between the Note: The important thing is that bookcase before finishing is to install
corner posts (1/16'1 less) (Fig. .14). the shelves aren't tight against the back the back panel that you cut earlier. To
To determine the width of the of the door. do this, 1used SIBil wire brads. •

, .. . . . . . . . . . . Shop-8U1lt Door Pulls

Stickley's furniture com-
pan)1 made all of its own
hardware. While Ididn't
make my own hinges or
door catches for the book-
case, I did make the
wooden door pulls.
The pulls are cut from an
extra-long blank of 3/4 "-
thick cherry (Fig. 1). The
extra length makes the
blank safer to work with.
The first step in shaping Since the
the pulls is to rout a tenon is in the
chamfer around each end middle of the
of the blank (Fig. 2). blank and not
Next, rout a cove around at the end,
each end using a '12" -dia. this cut looks a
core box bit (Fig. 3). little odd. Just cut
Now, before cutting the or rout dadoes around
pulls from the blank, form the blank (Fig. 4). Then
tenons to fit the mortises All that's left now is to glue them
in the doors (Fig. 31a on sand the pulls smooth and into the mortises in
the opposite pagel. cut them from the blank. the doors.

""""
ClfT HANDLES
FROM BorH
ENDS OF BLANK ,.
CHAMFER ROUTER
ROUT FINGER
RECESS
w CUT TENON TO
MORTISE IN
MATCH
[)(X)R
I TABLE

~:;
"-- FENCE
_):;" ',,'nT">
..;J~
~~~
f---'-LAN-K I

®~) ,
III ,
, 'Yo".WIDE
DOOR PUU BLANK "-CHAMFER
W~4· xl0" ROUGH [ BIT y," CORE
BOX BIT
DADO BLADE

MISSION BOOKCASE 83
 , Through Mortise and Timon
nc of the strongest joints you'U find
on a project is a mortise and tenon.
Aml a through mortise and tenon joint
not only gives you a strong joint. but a
decorative onc as well.
vVhen the tenon is glued into the
mortise, the tWQ fitlogelher like the
handle in the head of a hammer (see
photo). The end grain on the tenon is a
decorative contrast to the long grain on
the sides of the mortise.
PERFECT FIT. The main reason for
gluing a long tenon into an open mor-
tise is usually appearance. And for the
best appearance, the parts of the joint
have to be cut perfectly.
If there arc allY gaps where the
tenon comes out of the mortise, it. will
be apparent - but it probably won't be
the look you were expecting. That's
why I follow a specific sequence when
cutling a through mortise and tenon.
SEQUENCE. Does that mean a
through monise and tenon joint is pegs are mostly for appearance. (See tenon resting in the bottom of the mor-
made differently than a traditional blind page 79 for more on installing pegs.) tise (see drawing). It's what supports a
mortise and tenon? Not exactly. The panel in a frame or a top on a table.
mortise is usually cut first, thcn the The shoulders around the tenon give
tenon is cut to fit the mortise. So far, no the joint resistance to racking and
difference. But because the fit of the There's more to a lhrough mortise and twisting - and hide imperfections.
joint is so importanl, T take a couple tenon joinl than one I)iece of wood Probably the strongest: part of a
extra steps as is explained on the fol- sticking through another. U the parts fit through mortise and tenon joint is the
lowing pages. together properly, the joint is strong in lit between the checks of the tenon and
Note: Sometimes there's a good several directions. And of course, it the cheeks of the mortise. When prop"
reason to reverse the sequence and cut looks good too. erly glued, the bond between the
the tenon first. (The Mission bookcase The load-bearing strength of the cheeks of the two pieces will produce a
is an example. Refer to page 76.) But the joint comes from the bottom edge of the joint that's practically unbreakable.
cutting operation is the samc.
OPTIONS. like an ordinary mortise
,
and tenon joint, a through mortise and I I/ LENGTI1

'"
tenon joint has some options. For one,
the leg is oflen thicker than the rail (sec MORTISEO
I
photo above and the drawing at right). PIECE
But this is primarily a design deci- \...--_.----- 'I 11
sion - the parts could just as well be
./".it'", WIDTH
\'
the same thickness.
And how far beyond the leg should ,. r
'I'
~:: \/'-V ,
'TCNONED
the tenon stick out? It could be flush to
the outside of the leg (right in photo) or
stand a little proud with chamfered
LENGTH
~--- I \
I
~ .
(~
i SHOULDER

lCHEEK
PIECE

edges (left in photo). Again, it's mostly a )

design decision. 4' "'--- THICKNESS

CHEEK - "'" I~
finally, a through mortise and tenon
joint is often pinned with small wood
pegs through the checks of the tenon /
'-R'I
I."
Oeft in photo). In the past this was done ( .'
to lock the tenon in the mor·tise to 'M~Tli I J

creatc a stronger joint. But with thc

improved glues available today, the

84 MISSION PROJECTS
CUTTIN
The key to culling
a perfect through
mortise is unifor-
mity. The tenon
opening should
have very straight
edges to fit tight
around the tenon.
Here are a
couple lips - and
aguide - to make
cutting a perfecr mortise easier.
LAY OUT ENDS. I start by laying out
(marking) the mortise on the outside
face of the workpiece (Step 1). To do
this, first usc a try square and a sharp
pencil to draw a line indicating the Lop
and bottom edges of the mortise. Then
use a square to extend these lines
around to the opposite (inside) face.
MARK SIDES. Next, I mark the sides
of the mortise. And for the most accu-
racy on the sides, I don't use a pencil.
Instead, I make the marks using a
chisel, a mallet and a shop-made guide
CHISEl
GUIDE
BLOCK
~G
CHISEL SHAllOW TROUGH
AROUND PERIMETER OF MORTISE
WITH CHISEL AND EDGE GUIDE
First mark ends of the mortise using a
try square and pencil. Then make a
block for marking the sides with a chisel.
Finish roughing out the mortIse from
the opposite side of the workpiece.
But keep the same face against the fence.
~~-- ~~--
block (Step I). (Again, make the marks slivers from the edges of the mortise.
on the face of the workpiece where the Now you should be able to sec the
end of the tenon will show.) outline of a perfectUlrough mortise. All
The ~uide block I use is simply a that's left is to clean out the waste.
squared-up wood block with a shallow BORE HOLES. At this point the mor-
rabbet cut along one edge. As simple as tise could be chopped out. by ham\. But
it is. the block is surprisingly helpful. it saves a lot of time (especially for deep
The block helps to mark a perfectly morlises) to rough out most of the
straight line Cor the sides of the mortise. waste using the urill press (Step ii).
And after the mortise has been roughed To rough out the mortise, I usc a
out with a drill bit, it helps hold a chisel Forstner bit IlmoUa than the width of
straight up for cleaning up the mortise. the mortise and drill a series of overlap-
SETTING OUT. There's a lrick Tuse to ping holes between the score marks.
help ensure crisp, clean edges on a Note: For the cleanest mortise, bore
through mortise. The trick is called halfway from each side (Step .I).
"setting out." CHISEL CLEAN. 'Inc overlapping holes
To set out a mortise, first chop will leave a series of ~ripples" in the
straight down Oll the chisel holding the mortise. To remove these ripples and
back of the chisel tight to the guide also complete the mortise, I use a chisel
block (Step 1). and the guide block to pare the sides of
After marking the perimeter of the the mortise (Step .'5). (Again, work from
mortise, remove the guide block and both sides.)
make a second angled chisel cut thal Finally, \0 insert the tenon more
intersects with the Jln;t (Slep 2). easily, I like to "back cut" the mortise
Then remove all the lillie three-sided slightly (Step 5a).
SETOVT
PERIMETER
OF MORTISE
a.
After scoring sides with a chisel, "set Rough out mortise by drilling a series
out" the mortise by chiseling a slight of holes inside the score lines. Use a
bevel inside score lines. Set out ends too. Forstner bit smaller than the mortise.
CHISEL GUIDE HElPS
CUT STRAIGHT
a.
SHOUI.DERS
""OS."E=Dlodll-2~=:'l1n
FACEr:
-~- CHISEL
CLEAN UP CHEEKS ON ALL '-- SLIGHT BEVEL
FOUR SIDES OF MORTISE
Complete the mortise by chiseling the straight up and down. After cutting from
sides of the mortise smooth and flat. both sides of the mortise, chisel a slight
Use the guide block to keep the chisel bevel from the'good face.
MISSION BOOKCASE 85
CUTT
A tenon can come
in any shape or --
-.-- AUXIUARY FENCE
size. But there's ON MrTER GAUGE
only one thing
TEST PIECE
IS SAME
THICKNESS AS
--_. ---
that counts - ACTUAL PIECE --J
how well it fit" in a - TEST PIECE

mortise. r7• ,.'1

;,
One of the eas- II
iest ways to cut a •
tenon is 10 usc a
dado blade in the
table saw. And to help set up the saw Begm cutting the tenon on a test Test the fit of the tenon in a mortise. If
just right, I start by cutting a tenon on a piece. Sneak up on thickness of tenon the tenon is too tight, raise the height
lest. piece. (l;sc a piece of wood that's by adjusting height of the dado blade. of the dado blade and cut again.
the same thickness and width as the
actual workpiece.)
TEST THICKNESS. To begin work on
the tenon, raise the dado blade and HOLD PIECE
ON EDGE C:::::,~i.(;"
make a shallow cut across one end TO COMPlETE I
TENON
(5l(,11 1). Then flip the piece and make a
second pass on the opposite face.
Note: for the most control - and
the cleanest cut - I cui tenons using
the miter gauge with an auxiliary fence USE MITER
attached. This helps prevent chipoul as GAUGE TO GUIDE
WQRKPIEG
the blade exits the workpiece.
Now check the test tenon in one or When the blade is adjusted for the Now the tenon can be cut to width.
the completed mortises (Step 2). The correct thickness, cut the tenon to the Don't move the fence, but the height
idea is to sneak up on the height of the desired length. Use the fence as a stop. of the blade may need to be adjusted.
blade until the end of this short tenon
fits the mort.ise perfectly - not too
tight and not too loose.
CUT CHEEKS. \Vhcll the thickness of
the tenon is set, the tenon can be cut to
length (Sle-p S). To do this, I again use
the miter gauge and auxiliary fcnce.
But this time the rip fence on the table
saw is llsed as a stop.
Position the rip fence so the distance
between the outside of the dado blade
and the fence equals the desired length
of the tenon. Now, cut the tenon by
making several passes over the dado
blade for each cheek.
CUT SHOULDERS. The last thing to do
is cut the tenon to the desired width.
You may have to chang(: the hcight of
the dado blade to determine this width.
Note: Again, r test the height first by
making cuts near the end of a test piece
of the same width.
To keep the position of t.he tenon
shoulder consistenl all the way around
the workpiece. [ used the same fence
selup as I did when cUlting the tenon
cheeks. The only difference is that the
workpiece is stood on edge now as it
passes over the blade (StepJ).

86 MISSION PROJECTS
Removing the doors and using blind mortise and tenon joints makes for a simpler version ofthe
Mission Bookcase. The one shown here is also shorter than the original.

'Ille basic construction of this short

opell version is virtually the same as for
the Iull Mission Bookcase. The main
difference is that. the size and number of
----r-r- I
some of the parts differ, and none of the ...L ....._ . ",::,,j J
hardware or parts for the doors arc ..-0----_ _r T.#
. ._,J....._
T!' ..
needed (see Materials List).
Note: 'l11C width and depth of thi"
bookcase will remain the same, but the -- ~/-i .... -""--::;
~.

overall height wjJl be 11 u shorter (48 1').

First, the side panels (A) and panel
corcs (B) are cUl to a length of ;-):)3/1(,"
(Fig. 1). ([heir width is tile same.)
- L1
c,. _ 1.",..,.
"l'i \
... \" r'
a·c.....•1 .'
;~::.,
1
To make this version simpler. you can
use blind tenons on the fronts of the
rails (D, E) identical totheoncson their ~_ t:-
backs (Fig. I). This makes each rail
slightly shorter (11 '1 ).
'[lIe posts (C) also need to be short-
-
1
.... .. lr---_.
-

ened for this clesi~n. TIley an' now cut
10 a length of 47 11 (Fig. 1). And their
mortise:; arc shallower (l5!Jli" deep) to
,KeepL the shorter lenons on the rails,
The back panel (K) is once again cut
Lo fit the rabbets in the back of the case.
(Mine ended up 38 1/l high,)
Finally, since there are no doors, the
OPEN BOOKCASE
front rail (G) and shelves (Y) are made
wider to extend to the front of the book-
case Wig. 2). The shelves win need
notches on their rronl and back corners
(similar to those on the front rail)
because the shelf standards (X) are
removed (Fig. 1). Now you can drill
shelf pin holes directly into the posts.

MAnRJALS UST
~ 11 ~
1\10 ~..... ~ "-1\10 CHANGED PARTS
A Ii' cr-~{., • A Side Par.els (4) % ply - 9 31;6 X33)/16 Note: Do not need
--. .i B Panel Cores (2)
C Post.s(4)
'Is hdbd. - 9)116 x 33>;,&
l%x 13/4 -47
partsO,EQ.R,S, r;
U, V. W, X, hinges,
I ,
12Y,
D Top Side Rdib (2) 1 x 3'12 -11 door catches, or
: E Btm. Side Rails (2) 1 x g'l< - 11 glass panes.
. G Front Rail (ll % x4'/~ -42%

I I
K Bild: Panel (1) lid ply -41 1h x 38'1;
.

,I""'IE-Y!
V Shelves (2) 1 x11'h-<1rh
(
y,," SHElf PI N
HOLES I " ''''i • •
~.i
.
:y,," DEEP .I -..l ._~_2
., :1
,
t
.... ~2
j.
w .. -Jl ' ,
~ ..\o.~.~.~~.

'''' SHElf
C?J
" 1" Jt/ CHAMFER FRONT EDGES -h;>" ,I
NOTE: 1'7Y,"·DEEP MORTISES ON BOTH FRONT AND BACK LEGS
Lj..'--~-~~~~-,-..---:::.:::.----'~ t
MISSION BOOKCASE 87
•
T
he term "country" suggests a straightforward, pmc-
t.ical st.yle of furniture. Typica!ly made from pine
boards, it has a "dmvn-home" feel.
So it Illay be surprising ro see a coat rack made from onk.
Its simple, decorative curves and traditionc"ll pegs give it a
distinctly coumry look. There's also a painted pine version.
Knotty pine is the perfect m<lterial for the high back
bench and jdly cupboard. Both projects offer options that
let you chnnge the kx)k without changing their chann.
But not 8ll pine is knotty. Using clear pine for the dove-
tail chest highlights the hand-cur dovemils. Or for a dif~
ferenr look, tl)' the frame-aod-panel version.

Coat and (-'love Rack

Designer's Notebook: Square Pegs 92
Shop Tip: Hanging System ••..•.•......•...•.... 94
Designer's Notebook: Milk Paint/Aging:...•.•••..•.• 9S

High-Back Bench
Shop Tip: Spacing Slats ..•...•......•.•••••..... 98
Designer's Notebook: Heart Cutout .........•..•.. 99
Shop Tip: Mortises With a Jig Saw ....•.....•••.. 100
DesiKflcr's Notcbook: UnJer~Seat StOr<lgc .....••... 102
Finishing: Milk Paint ..................•.•••.. 104

Jelly Cupboard
Shop Tip: Routing Custom-Fit Dadoes ........•... 108
Shop lip: Clamping with Wedges .......•...•.... 109
Designer's Notebook: Wood Raised Panels •...•••.. 113

Dovetail Chest
Shop Tip: Sanding Flush •.•••..••••..••••.•••.. 117
Shop Jig: Flush Trim Jig ..•.................... 117
Finishing Tip: Shellac .....•.............••...• 119
Joinery: Hand-Cut Dovetails .••....•.•....•..... 120
Designer's Notebook: Frame and Panel Chest .•..... 124
Coat and Glove Rack
Hang coats and mittens or cups and linens on this rack that features additional storage behind its door.
Choose a finish that highlights the wood, or try one that turns your rack into an "instant antique."
hen I started building this
project, I never considered
haJlging anything more than
my coats and hats on it. But when a
friend saw it, she insisted I build one for
her. And she wanted to know if I cou Id
make it look like a wcll,used antique
(more about that in a moment).
JOINERY. The cOIlstruction of the
coat and R"love rack is very simple. '111e
shelves both sit in dadoes in the sides
and are then screwed in place. And the
back pieces are screwed to the shelves.
DOOR. TIle only trick to this country
coaL rack is tittingthc door. How do you
get a uniform gap around each side? I
started with the Rap at the bottom-
il's determined by the depth of the
hing-c mortises. Then after the bottom
90 COUNTRY PROJECTS
gap is set, creat.ing the other
gaps is just a matter of trim-
ming the door to size.
HANGING SYSTEM. The
rack itself doesn't weigh
that much, buL when it's full
of coats you want to know it
will stay put. So the back is beveled and
this bevel then locks into a mating cleat
screwed to the wall (refer to the Shop
Tip on page 94). It's strong and makes it.
easy to position the rack.
fiNISHES. On the oak versioll showll
here, 1used an oil/varnish combination
to let the wood grain show throuJ.{h.
My friend wanted a more ~country"
look, so 1 built he~ out of pine. And to
make it a bit more rustic, I tried milk
paint for a finish. (DIe Technique box
on page 104 tells you how to usc milk
paint) Then, to make it look like it had
seen years of use, I distressed the wood
and finish. You can sec the results (am\
Jearn more about doing this) in the
Desi,gner's Notebook Oil page 95.
HARDWARE ANO PATTERNS. A hard-
ware kit, as well as fun-size patterns for
the sides and the back, are available
from Woodsmilfl flrojrct Sllppi'im;. For
more information, other sources, and
finishing supplies, see page t 26.
EXPLODED VIEW
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
36W x 90 x 16H

SIDE@

4dFINISH~
NAIL \
-!. HANGING

~--:::-
CLEAT

MOLDING
......... _-- CD
STRIP

I"'
I
@
DOOR
I
( 1'--
,
DOOR 2" x 1%."
KNOB 'UTI
HINGE 3,"
SHAKER
PEG #8x 1WFh
WOODSCREW

CUTTING DIAGRAM
MATERIALS UST
WOOD
A Sides (2) %x8%-16
B Top Shc!f (1) '10; 71fl - 34 1h
C Bottom ShelUl) % x 7111 - 33lf?
o Molding Strip (1) '14 x·% - 60 rough
E BilCk(l) %x7'/4-33'/2
F Hdnging Cleat(ll Y4X 1//8-32
G PegRail(l) -'lf4 x 6% - 33'/J
H Door(l) 1;4X4%-32%

HARDWARE SUPPLIES
(24) NO.8 x 1'12· Fh woodscrews
(2) 2" x 1%" butt hinges wI screws
(1) Magnetic catch and plate wI screws lJ< x 9Y., - 72 (5 Bd. Ft.)

===~~
(6) 3'h· Shaker pegs
(1) '"oClkdoorknobw/screw
(10) J/s' oakflat-topplug5
114) 4d(l'h")fini,hnails
11:::::::;;==='
\:oF

COAT AND GLOVE RACK 91

 NOTE: CUT DAOOES
TO MATCH a. ~ , ,, , , a. \4" ROUNDQVER
, , ,
THICKNESS
OF STOCK
'"~ ,
AS SHOWN
,,
"
00 NO' ,
.".I
ROlIT

..
--
M'"
( W. 3'R 'DG'
I

'"
If,, 1
/. I '\

I
-0i ' ' '
-.- :ot-
16
~ l' ',"
~-f; .
.
W- (
:aJ I
5
%'
COUNTER-
-- BORE
• '" ---:I I
STO'
ROUND-
OVER 1"
,I
':}:I I ~ 10\2 >ROM 1
SHElf 0

3~~1
{ ~
I
LEDGE 0
\, , '1 % 0

'::: '" 5" CENTER HOLES r~

'\
i
8\\

~
J ON DADOES
(SEE DETAIL b)
SIDIS
-----
The country coat rack is held tOR'ether
by the sides (A). Start by cutting two
blanks roughly 8112" wide. Then cut
them to aIinished len~,'lh of 16'1 (Pig. I).
CUT DADOES. The shelve:; fit into W'-
deep dadoes cut ill the blanks (Fig.lb).
Position the first dado SIN' from t.he
bottom edge, the second 10'12".
CUT RABBETS. After clItting the
dadoes, cut the rabbets for t.he back
pieces. They're cut along the inside
back edge of each blank W(q. Ja).
Next, cut the side blanks to linished
'% ~"-DIA
SHANK
HOLE
1--%---1
width (8lf4") (Fig . .I). Doing this after
cutting the dadoes deans UI) any
chipout. Just be sure to trim off the front
edges - not the rabbeted edges.
SCREW HOLES. To screw the shelves
10 the sides, you'llnC(.'(/ to drill Yg''-dia.
counterbores. They're centered on the
width of each dado (/"i!r~. { and lb).
(Ine counterbores are filled with plugs
later.) Then, drill a 3f16T'-dia. shank hole
Lhrough each counterbore.
CUT SHAPE. '1'0 cut an identical shape
on both sides (A), tape them together
wilh carpet tape (dadoes facing in).
Now layout Ole curved pattern on
fi
one face anl! cut just out.side the lines
(Fig. 2). Then J usecl a drum sander anl!
file to linish the shape.
ROUND OVER EDGES. To complete the
sides, I routed W' roundoverson all the
exposed edges excepl the back.
Note: To prevent gaps, don't round
over Ole edges where noted in Pig. 2((.
With the sides complete, I began on Lhe
shelves. '1'0 make the top shelf look as if
it extends through lhe sides, I adJed
molding strips on the fronl and sides.

=cS,=--_p holes using a small chisel

(Fig. 2).
If you want. to add another interesting Finally, place a drop of glue
detail to the coat rack, try using square in each hole and spread it
pegs instead of round plugs to fill the around the sides of the hole.
screw counterbores. '1he square plugs (A straightened paper clip
stand a bit "proud" of the surface. works well for this.) Then l
• To make square pegs, first cut a %"- gently lap the pegs in place.
SQuare blank to a rough length of 18T'.
• Next, using a disc sander, shape each
end of the blank Lo a slight pyramid
ANGLE CHISEL __
(Fig. 1). 1llcn cut off a peg about %" ffJ
FOR TAPERED;1 v
long from each em!. HOlE
• Repeat this procedure until you have .....---\
enough pegs to fiJI all the holes. II
USE
SCRAP FOR
I, ~
• TIle pegs will fit easier if you round BACKING
their boltom edges with sandpaper. c:D BOARD
• Next, carefully square up the screw

92 COUNTRY PROJECTS
 CUT TO SIZE. To begin, rip the lOP
shelf (B) and bottom shell (C) to width. NOTCH ENDS
TO FIT SIDE
To find the width, measure the length of OADOES
the lower dado on a side (A) (Figs. ,J
and 4). Start from the shoulder of the
back rabbeL. (Mine were 7ljz" wide.) ®
Next, cut the bolto1U shelf (C) to
lengtll (33W') (!,1ig. ~). Then damp the , --------"'\

~
NOTE.:
shelf between the two sides (A) and POsmON CATCH
measure from the outside face of one CENTER TO AlLOW FOR
MAGNETIC - Tl-lICKNESS OF CATCH
side to the outside of the olher. 'Illis will CATCH f'LATE AND DOOR
be the length of the top shell (C) (34!N 1 ON SHELF

in my case) (Pig. ,<]).

TOP SHELF. The top shelI extends
across the front edge of each side, so
cut a notch out of each back corner
(Fig. 3). The length of this notch equals
BOTTOM
the len,l(th of the Lop dado in the sides SHELf ©_
(A). (Again, measure from lhe shoulder C¥." rHICK)
DRill. PILOT
of the back ~abbeL) ., HOLES PRIOR a.
At this point, I drilled pilot holes for / _ TO ASSEMBLY-------=::
the door catch (Fig. 3). Inset the door ( _----::
catch a distance equal to the thickness b~-'~=f!J"t·~
MORTISE IS -
of the door rl1l.B the catch plate. I
attached tllC plate to Ihe catch and posi-
v.."ROUNDOVER
ON BOTTOM EDGE,
/ • If '"
HALF THE
THICKNESS
OF HINGE
STOPPING l?" v." ROUNDOVER ;J BARREL
tioned them 'J!4" in from the front edg-c. FROM EACH END
BOTTOM SHELF. Next, 1 went back to
the bottom shelf. First, layout the loca-
tions of the hinge mortises (Fig. 4). (A), and drill pilot holes into the shelves 3N'-wide molding strips (D) (Fig. 6).
r wanted a uniform 1/161' gap around (Fig. "i). Then glue and screw lhe 'l1len I cut one 40'1-long strip, plus two
the door. If the hinges were mounted shelves between the sides. 101'-long strips.
flush wilh the surface, the gap between To prevent the top shelf from cup- For the best fit at the mitered cor-
the shelf and the door would be about ping' at the front, 1 also drilled and ners, I cut the front piece firsl so the dis-
%". So r cut the mortise on the shelf a screwed the shelf to the sides from the tance between the short points equals
little deeper - to half the thickness of top (Figs.:"j and ,"ju). Then r plugged all the length of the top shelf (Fig. 6).
the hinge barrel (f'ig. .4u). the screw holes except those covered Afler the front strip is glued on, miter
After the mortises arc cut, drin pilot by the molding strips. the other strips to fit on the sides. But
holes for the screws. Then, round over MOLDING. 'Inc molding strips cover glue the strips only to the shelf, not the
the front bottom cdge (Fig. 4U). the edges of the top shelf. (Thc thick· sides. Then nail the strips on with 1d
ASSEMBLY. At this point, dry- nesses of each should match.) r started (ll/zll) finish nails (Fig. 6). lois allows
assemble the shelves (B, C) and sides by rounding over the front edg'cs of the lhe sides 10 expand and contract.

SHELVES MUST BE TRIM SIDE 4d FINISH

W flUSH WITH ,.<; STRIPS flUSH NAILS'"""
TAPERED SHOULDERS OF RABBETS ! WITH BACK EDGE

( - PlUGUG ~ :( ~
rn-
\
9
,....,
"

a.
• " ,. BLEND IN
--- ROUNDOVERS
WITH FILE
r'--
w
~

c ,..
/®",
F"
,/ y.," RO\JNDOVERS

".
"
ON TOP AND BOTTOM
COUNTER- OF STRIPS
I BORE GLUE SlDE/'-!.".-,
Yo" DEEP SHANK STRIPS AT
118 ~ lYl Fh HOLE FRONT ENOS
>MJOOSCREW ONLY

CQAT AND GLOVE RACK 91

BACKS
Instead of one wide back for the coat
&)[}{]@!P '[J(]L') Hanging System
rack, it's two separate pieces. The gap
between the pieces allows the coat rack
Here's how the hanging
system works. First, the back ·,•. '. , I
to hang on a beveled cleat. See the Shop is cut to finished length.
"'-""' ,
,
,
BAC'
/®/ , . " ,

~
Tip at right for details. Next, a beveled cleat is \., 0

BACK. The hanRing cleat (F) is origi- ripped from one edge of the DRY- WALL
>, WAlL SlUD
nally parl of the back (E). Start by rip- back. Then screw the cleat to
a pair of studs in the wall. SHH.f ...J •
ping the piece to a rough width of 9W 1•
Next, cui it to length to fit between the After it's finished, hang the
(
I I
. • •7 0
~ ~

·· .
rabbets in the sides CA). 'Then tilt the shelf on the cleat so the
table saw blade to 45 0 and rip the back mating bevels interlock. ®
. •. • .
to a width of 7W ' (Pig. 8). The waste Note: This same system HANGING
CLEA,
, ' I
piece is used for the hanging cleat. can be easily adapted for
.· -,
,
I , ,

CURVES. The next step is to layout other styles of shelves or

the curve on the back side of the back
(E) (Figs. 7 and 8). Then rough out the
curve with a band saw or jig- saw. I used
a drum sander to smooth up to the line.
PEG RAIL. The peR" rail (G) makes up
the lower half of the back (Fig. 10). To
determine the width of this piece, mea-
~ure from the top edge of the bottom
shelf to the bottom of the side pieces
(6lf4") (Fif}. fJ). Like lhe back, it filS
between the mbbds (33 Ih" long).
DRILL PEG HOLES. After the peg rail is
cut to size, drill holes for the coat pegs
wall-hung cabinets.
(Fig. 9). Center these holes on a line
drawn 2 3N' from the boltom euj.{c.
Begin with a hole centered ;{'I from the
end of the piece. Then drill the
remaining five holes at 5112" intervals
(center to center).
ROUT BACKS. Next, I routed a %"
roundovcr along the nppa front edge
of the back (E) (Fig. lia) and the tOWel"
front edge of the peg rail (G) (Fig. 9).
"
Note: To prevent any gaJlS where
the back pieces fit into the rabbets, stop
the roundovers IN' from the ends of
each piece.
ATTACH BACKS. Now. drill counter-
sunk screw hoks through the back
pieces and into the shelves (Fig. ]0).
111cn screw the top and bottom into the
shelves. To hold the backs in tight. I
nailed them into thc rabbets as well.

EACH SQUARE STOP

a,

r
BAa< HALf.4>ATTERN rEQUALS 1" ROUNDOVER
Yl FROM EDGE
r-r-,.......,.,....,...-,--,-.-,--r-r--.--."--. ~-l ~.
6?">~
~ -+++,--,+-+-+1 rr-11 .lr.~
"
m
~,.-
7% -"Ir-,-f,--il_~+""-I--'--+-...j-H-j-f-+-+--j .. I 8 AUGNPAmRN
I NOTE: AUGN THI~ ED:GE GY. II "§~!tl~WlTH
_-=
CENTERUNE
ON BAG< SIDE
WITH CENTE"RLINE -,----
I
l
l
'1'--- ON WORJ<PIECE

i
1 I- - ® ----..: 32-___ J
-----® ~ -<
'c--'::====:=-;;~='='-:-':==j...L
HMIGING
l. 1G\'. - I,
ClEAT E
CAC'
-11¥"
(WTHICK)

CENTER SCREV\iS ....-:::--BLEND

ON SHELVES r ROUNOOVER
a. : BACK

r::.:-' Il'r'''--::>-----~.--\ 1 ®
"{--'-
~HAKER
-PEG /'

-'- PEG RAIL

•
i
v.," ROUNDOV£R
ON BOTTOM EDGE.
STOPPING \7"
1<.
4d FINISH
""~
® I/8xl\7"Fh
WOODSCREW

"
•

FROM EACH END

J. BLENO ROUNDOVERS
ON FRONT EDGE -_ _____

94 COUNTRY PROJECTS
 Note: To avoid splitting the wood, I
,

=
drilled pilot holes and used 4d finish
nails, angling them slightly.
CENTER DOOR IN
OPENING AND MARK -_"::::~'%;~,--
HINGE lOCATIONS
BLEND ROUNDOVERS. Some of the
roundovcrs 011 lhe sides (A) and the
backs (E, G) were stopped short so
there wouldn't be gaps at the joints.
Now that these pieces are assembled,
you can finish rounding them over with
a file (Figs. Ga aJ/cllO).

,
All that's left is the door. It should have a Nore CATCH~ MORTISE IS
THIO<NESS OF
consistent gap around each side. To ,get BEVEL DOOR SUGHTlY "-'TE HINGE lEAF
TO CLEAR SHELf_
this, I Cllt the door to 6\ tight and WHEN CLOSING
trimmed it for an even gap later.
CUT DOOR, Start by measurin,g the
opening and cut the door (H) to fit.
Then rip it I/Wll narrower than the
~ .. DOOR SHOULD BE CUT
TO PRODuce A UNIFORM
/ ' - ··GAPAROUNDOP€NING I
height of the opening so you can close
the door when the hinges arc mounted.
- ---
;.low, screw the hinges to the bottom
shelf. Then, clamp the door to them and
mark their position (Fiy. 10.
Note: The door should be centered
across the opelling.
CUT MORTISES. Next, cut the hinge
mortises on the door edR"c (Fiy. Ua).
TIlese mortises can be cut lo the thick-
ness of the hinge leaf. the door and trim its top and sides. DOORKNOB AND CATCH. Finally, drill
TRIM DOOR. Arter mounting the Then soften the edges with sandpaper. pilot holes for the catch plate and door
door, measure the gap along the bottom Note: When trimming the top edge, knob (I<''i,qIS. 11 and 12). Then apply a
and mark the door's top and sides so cu!: a slight bevel so the inside cdg-e of finish to the coat rack and mount the
they'll have uniform gaps. ;.Iext, remove the door will dear the shelf. catch, pegs, .md door knob. •

For tips on applying milk paint, see

the Finishing article on pages 104-105.
To give the coat rack a worn appear-
ance, sand some of the edges after
painting, ann round the corners thai'
would get the most wear.
To distress the wood and finish more,
add dings and scratches. But do a little
bit at a time - it can be overdone.

COAT AND GLOVE RACk 9S

High--Back Bench
Choose from several options to make the bench you want. It can be built with or without storage
under the seat, with your choice ofdesigns in the back, and finished with astain or milk paint.
robably the first thing you notice
aboullhis bench is all the curves.
Anel you may wonder how to cut
these on such large panels. Actually, it's
easy to do with a pattern, ajigsaw, and a
bit of sanding.
V-GROOVE. But there's another fea-
ture that helps give this high back
bench iL,> old-fashioned look. That's the
V-R"roove between the boards in each
panel. It highlights all of the joints-
instead of hiding them.
[ used two techniques to cut these
grooves. Since the back of the bench is
made up of individual boards that arcn 'r
glued together, the edges of the boards
96 COUNTRY PROJECTS
are chamfered before assembly. Then
they're held together with cleats.
But the scat and sides are glued-up
panels. It's casier to cut these grooves
after gluing up each paneL I did this on a
table saw with the blade tilted to 45°.
WOOD. I used %"-Lhick No. 2
Ponderosa pine for most of the bench,
and straight-grained lIIt"-thick stock
for the supports under the seat.
FINISH OPTIONS. I actually built two
benches just so , could tryout a dif-
ferent finish on each of them.
The first bench (shown above) was
stained to give the deep color that a
hundred-year-old bench would have
acquired over time. To do this, I first
applied a scaler to help the pine absorb
the stain evenly. Then I used a 50/50
blend of a golden oak color mixed with a
maple stain. For the top coat, I used two
coat."l of a salin finish clear sealer.
On the second bench, I used milk
paint, a finish that's been used since
colonial times. (You can see this bench
on page 104.) After a bit of "dis-
tressing," this finish helps the bench
look like an authentic antique.
DESIGN OPTION. To make YOllr
bench even more useful, the Designer's
Notebook on page 102 shows how to
build it with under·seat storage.
EXPLODED VIEW
OVERAll DIMENSIONS:
52W x 200 x 47H

a.
TOP CLEAT
--.---'© TOP ClEAT
REAR SLATS
(D---
"'=-.-'" -', ©-'1,
@ @, --- !
BACK SLATS
BACK SLATS

FRONT SLATS
®,
! ;
®
"m"""
CEN"TER
"-"'"
,

,
CD ( -@
SEAT SLAT
® SIDE
",m, SUPPORT
SUPPOl\T
@
""'ON
CD
fRONTIBACK
SUPPORTS

CROSS SECTION

CUTTING DIAGRAM
If. x s%· 72 (f;~ Roard~ @2.aad. ft. EactI)

I. A .I~_: ~
WOOD
MATERIALS LIST

%x% 72 ~~800roS~.c2c'c'edc'c"c'e"~' __
%x5-34%
~
A Back Slats (10)

I ' B BtmJCtr Cleats (2) Y~x5-52

C Top Cleat (1) 3f4 xl'h-14
lto x %·72 (Four Boards C 2.8 ad. Ft. Each) o Apron (1) 7-52
3/4X

~, ~
E Front Slats (II) YdS-24
I -] , _ F Rear Slats (4) %x5-42
G (orner Blocks (2) 1'12x1%-6%
H Side Supports (2) 1112x'"h-13 /4

~ I Fr.lBk. Supports (2) 1'/,x1'11-47

'
1'711,;0 ""'" _O J
K
Seat Slats (4)
Center Supporl (1)
%x5-50
l'hxPh-ll%

L . .•
% ~ % - 60 (Four Boards C 23 Bd. Ft. EiKh} HARDWARE SUPPLIES
(46) No. R x 1111 ' Fh woodsaews
(69) No.8 x 2' Fh woodscrcws

117 x 5h - 60 (3.4 ad. Ft.)

E§",,,!,,,,,,gum!:!;,,uWfffl2W~
HIGH-BACK BENCH 97
 5O---~·1

I started work on the bench by building

,.,.-©TOP CLEAT ---j S r-----.
\I I I j
the back. The back consists of len slats
.
supported by two cleats - much like a
picket fence. , I J I.~
• • •

fl-i'
• • 1h I
"
BACK SLATS. I ripped t.he ten back
slats (A) to width from %"-thick boards II ill Ii I ~
(Fig. i) and cut them 31:lj4'llong.
Kext, to give the bench a traditional
look, I routed IN' chamfers on the long
• • • .• • • · . · . · • . . . • . . ·1
®
CENTER CLEAT
s

edges of each slat (Fig. :laY. (Don't

chamfer the ends.) ~BACK SLATS
i

j
BOTTOM AND CENTER CLEATS. To
make the bottom and center cleats (B), ,
first rip two boards 5" wide (Fig. 1). !
Then. cut them to length.
Note: The cleats are 2" longer than
the combined width of aU the back slats. L
. • ..• • • • . ·®. · . . •
BonOM CLEAT
• • .. •
~
S

In my case, Lhey were 52" long. I- 52 ~ f

The ends of the cleats serve as
through tenons. To dress them up a
little, I routed a 114" chamfer around
both ends of each cleat (Fif!. 20).
BACK ASSEMBLY. Once the cleats arc BEFORE ASSEMBLY: ®-- f""~~" a-,
CHAMFER ENDS OF
EACH CLEAT AS SHOWN
IN DETAIL

EDGE~SO~>~A:~~S<A~"~~~:~~~~::~
chamfered, the back can be assembled. ~_. AS SHOWN IN DETAIL a

\ )
®)
To ensure the proper distance across CHAMFER
the back, Ilrst position the two o'ttt.~idf: CENTER CLEAT

5O~
slats 50'1 apart measured from outside
edge to outside edge (F'i,q. 2). BOTI@'a.EAT
Next, place the bottom deat on top of
the two slats (Fig. 2). 'l1,en, adjust the
position of the cleat so it overhangs the
side of each slat by II', ann is flush with
the bottom end of each slat. BOTTOM VIEW
Use only one screw ateaeh cleat/slat
a, Yo" CHAMFER
point for now - you'll drive the second
screw after the frame is square.
(-

CLEATS OVERHANG
BACK SLATS BY 1"
-
II"
"jj
'Ilte center deat can be attached the
same way. Position it 13Vl up [rom the
lop edg-e ofthe bottom deat Wig. Z).
~ow, square up the frame and install
a second screw at each joint. Then
l,
attach the remaining slats, working
from the outside in. Sec the Shop Tip at
riR"ht for a tip Oil doinR this.
TOP CLEAT. Finally, cut a small top
deal (e) to size (Fig. I). later. this cleat
0GO::W W . .. . . . . . Spacing Slats
helps support the two cenLer slats after If you build the bench in a dry
you've cut a design in the back. But shop, each S· -wide slat may
before the cleat is screwed in place, the swell across its width by about
patterns in the back are laid out and cut 1%, or as much as 3/64 • as the
humidity increases. So attach
them to the cleats with a gap
this size between them.
To add a bit of country flair to the back, To space the slats evenly and
I cut a double curve along the top edge consistently, I used playing cards
and a diamond in the center of the back. as spacers. The thickness of Note: You may have to trim the
(An alternate hearl~shaped cutout is three cards is just about the width of a few of the inside slats and
shown in the Designer's Kotebook on right amount of space. rechamfer the edges.
the opposite page.)

98 COUNTRY PROJECTS
 BACK PATTERN. To shape the back as
symmetrically as possible, first draw
the balf-pattern fu 11 size on a piece of
l/.-:"-thick hardboard to be used as a tem-
plate (Fig. 3). Then cut and sand the
hardboard template to finished shape. Drill 2W'-dia, holes to make the
SHAPING THE BACK. Now the pattern curved top portion of the heart.
can be traced onto the back side of the Cut out the lower portion with a jig
back. To do this, trace around the tem- saw. Chamfer the edJ.!es. Complete the
plate onto one half of the back. Flip the chamfer on the bottom point with a file.
template over to the opposite half and
trace it again.
Notc: I worked rrom the back side
becausc my jig saw cuts on the
up"troke. This way, any splintering is
hidden in the back.
CHAMFER EDGES. After the curved
lop edge and cutout have been cut, $<lnd
the edges. Next, rout a III chamfer on
thc front and back of the top edge and
inside the cutout (Vi,q8 . .'f awl 4(1).
Because the router bit can't reach
into the light corners, I completed the MAKE HALF-PAffiRN
chamfers with a file. TEMPLATE FROM HARDBOARD
Nter you're through chamfering the
edges, attach the top cleat (C) to the
rear of the back, just above the cutout.

'111e next step is to cut an apron (D) that

fits bclow the scat and between the
sides. Cut the apron 7" wide from a 3/4"_
thick board (Fig. 5). Then, cut the
apron the same length as the back
deaL'> (B). (In my case, 52" long.)
TENONS. Next, Cllt the notches to
NOTE; CHAMfER BIT
form a tenon on each end of the apron
(Fig. 5a), These tenons will fit into mor- CHAMFER fRONT "";;;;;:;~~Z
AND BACK EDGES ~ .
tises that are cut later inlO the side
panels orthe bench. To cut the notches,
I raised the table saw blade ~I' high and
made a cull" from each end. Then, I
COMPLETE CHAMFERS
INTO CORNERS
-------------.
.. _.. -- --
WITH FILE
removed the waste with a back ,;aw.
After the tenons are formed, the end
of each tenon is chamfered the same as
the ends on the deals (Fig. 5u.).
Note: Chamfer the botlom edR"e of the same manner as thc back. First, cut out the shape, and sand it smooth.
the tenon with a back saw or liIe. make a hardboard template (Pi,l). 6). Finally, rout IN' chamfers along the
PATTERN. The apron can be shaped in Then trace the template onto the apron, bottom edges of the apron.

or'"--MAW;"KECH"A"L'F;;PAiiJT""ERNmc"""M"M;O;"",-~~------~------
52

S fROM l-lMDBOARD ~
@ 1'4. CHAMFERS
ONE SQUARE", ONE INCH ON ALL EDGES
,'- E·~-!i~'¥f'~rr;~;~~'ft-~~;- f -~';J. "j:J'
APRON @ OF TENON

.-
2
I ..... 4
-E-t--t--tIL'
....._1\;. CHAMFER
ON BonOM I ~-'--NOTCH
,.) --" • EDGE

HIGH-BACK BENCH 99
 NOTE:
CUT PIECES OVERSIZED
IN LENGTH
AND SQUARE UP ENDS
Next, work can begin on the two glued-
up side panels.
SIDE PANELS. Start by ripping enough

~
3J4"-thick stock to width for four front
slat~ (E) and four rear slat~ (F) (Fir;. 6).
TIlen, rough cut the front slats 25" long
n. ,, - rq
r
L
and the rear slats 4:~'llong. . 1T
, I
j

Now, form each "L"-shaped side by , , ..

gluing two front and two rear slats
together (Pi,q. (j). Once the glue dries,
+'.
,
"

sand them Oat and cul them to final size. CUT V-GROOVES
ALONG GLUE JOINTS --j-
NOTCHES. Now, layout notches on
the back edge of each panel for the back
cleats (l"i,q. (j). 1used ajig saw to cut the
three edges on each notch a little short.
Then 1used a chisel to sneak up on their
final size unUl lhe notches fit the deaL<;.
a.
Z RAISE BLADE III ,
---

b''''"
..........

1-1- t
MAKEfUU·SlZEPAITERN j
TEMPLATE fRO HARDBOARD-1=:
.
I

I\S SHOWN M
, 120'
MORTISES. l\cxt, layout the location
for each mortise to attach the apron (1) If I
, -, .-.x4Z"}
I·
I"

~
(Hy. (j). Then, cut each mortise 1.0 lit .
the apron tenons. (Sec the Shop Tip fB.'·
_--1 •
below for one way to do this.)
CUT V-GROOVES. To make the joints
Iii 11-.
on the side I>aneb look like those on the ONE SQUARE = ONE INCH "
back, 1 Ctlt V-grooves along each one.

Mortises With A Jig Saw

{'_' ,I,
DRILL A CHISEL HALf'NAY
PILOT HOLE SAW TO VIIlTHIN 1'.;" THROUGH EACH SIDE
AT EACH END OF LAYOUT UNES TO CLEAN OUT MORTISE

Layout the mortise cen- Drill a 3/<1" hole at each Remove waste using a Chisel up to layoullines.
terline, ends, and pilot end. Use these holes to jig saw (or chisel). Cut to To help prevent chipout,
holes '/e" from each end. layout edge of mortise. within 7;'6" ofaI/layoutlines, work from ooth faces_

100 COUNTRY PROJECTS

To do this, I uf>ed a rip blade (bt:causc of n SECOND: UFT BOTTOMfCENTER ClEATS

~~ rlnt'~l)..I-T~I--::~:~>A~"""
the blade's flat-top profile) tilted to 45° a.
(Fig. 7a). Before moving' the rip fence

~iI
to cut the next. groove, Dip the panel
over to cut the opposite side of the joint. 1'""1
"r---,- -_______ ii,
CUT TO SHAPE. To complete the
sides. make a pattern as you did for the ---l,
, '
back and al)rOn (Fi,g. 8). Then chamfer
all the edgeR except inside the notdles -- ----- f-f
(refer to Fig..iQ, on page 99).
~-------
SSEMBL
~

I
Before making the bench seat, the side
panels <Ire glued to the back and apron.
To do this, first spread glue around
the edges of the apron tenons. Then,
r
r\
~
RRST: GLUE AND a..AMP
SIDE PANELS TO APRON CROSS SECTlON ~

insert the tenons inlo t.he mortises in

the sides and clamp the assembly
L JJ~L ~========(
togdher (Fig. 9).
Note: Make sure the tenon shoul·
ders are tig"ht against the sides.
~--------------
1m
·I y It'---", ,>A, a.
i7""'
I

il
Kow, lift the back into place, and slip
the deats into the side panel notches
(}''ig. .9). Then, drill and screw the cleats I : SLATS ~ FRONT

.=:1- _c-'-== ~
t::9~ _/0" ~
into the notchcf> (/t'ig. Va).
I1 11-'--_
"l-J-.-':
- - - ----- - ' -
I ~::-:-:::::---I~~ ,~
~~
SEAT,-_
Once t.he glue haR dried, the final steps 1M' I~ ~
are building the seat support and seal.
~
SEAT SUPPORT. The scat support con-
sists of a frame and center support
made from 1W' x 1W' boards ("V/.lO).
Bq,'in by cutting two corner blocks (G)
,

I I,
I

, IJ /
NOTE: FIRST, ORIU AND SCRew CORNER
<J--q: ~
-'"""

SIDE
SUPPORT
':,", WOOOS<R>W
""l--/
~
to a length of 63N'. Then, glue and """, BLOCKS IN PlACE. NEXT, SIDE SUPPORTS. CORNER
'\ ~ THEN, FRONT AND BACK SUPPORTS. "OCK
screw them in place.
Next, cut two side supports (1-0 to fit
bet.ween the back slats (1\) and the
corner blocks (G) (Fig. 10). Now, drill NOTE:
SEAT V-GROOVES AUGN 'NITH
and screw (don't glue) the supports in SIDE PANEL V,GR(X}VES a. w·
place. 'the sides must be able 10 shrink ROUNDOVER
and swell during changes in humidity. ,IT
Now, cut the front and back supports
(I) to length (Fi!!. 1O). Then, drill and
screw them to the apron and back slats.
SEAT. To make the seat, first rip four ROUND OVER lHE FRONT
en _~"'®J;,b -+ll:4
r-
EDGE OF SEAT ONLY
%"-thick boards for the seat slats to
a width of 5" and slightly over 501' long , +--""--11¥.,
(pig. II). Then, glue and clamp the ,,
boards together for the scat blank. #8xZ"Fh
Once the glue has dried, cut the WOOOSCREVVS ·--'''.-j,!-,L/
panel 10 fit between the sides. Nf'xt, cut NOTE:
V-grooves along all three glue joints. FIRST ATTACH SEAT
PANEL TO SUPPORTS, FINISH CHAMFERING
Then, rip the front and back slats to THEN ATTACH ROUNDQVER
CENTER SUPPORT WITH FILE
width unlil the V-grooves in the seat
align with the side grooves (Pig.i!).
l'\ext, rout a l/l roundovcr on the
(ront edge of the scat (Fig. lla). Then ATTACH SEAT. Now, drill lind screw to lhe bottom of the seat between the
chamfer the top outside ends, and com- the seat supports to the seat (Fig. 11). front. and back supports (rder to detail
plete the chamfer with a Iile (Fig, lIb). Finally, screw a center support (K) 'a' in Exploded View on page 97). •

HIGH-BACK BENCH 101

You can make the high-back bench more versatile by building a hidden storage area under the seat.
To allow access to this compartment, the seat panel doubles as a hinged lid.

c
For this bench, the back is built the
&fmc, except irs a bit longer (taller). So
first cut the back slats (N to width (5")
and to a length of37%" (Fig. O.
• Af>semble the back with the bottom
cleat (B) flush with the bottom edg-es of
the back slat,>. 'Incn position the bottom
edge of the center cleat (B) 16%11 from
the lop of the boltom cleat (ll) (Pig. 1).
Now complete the back the same as
for the regular bench.
Next, glue up two Slf2'I-wide boards to
make a panel for UlC apron (D) (Fig. it).
• After cutting the apron to length
(52'1), a tenon is cut on each end, cen-
tered on the width oCthe apron (Fig. 2).
To do this, first raise the table saw blade
to just under 31'. Then set the rip fence
II' from the Qut8ide of the blade as a
stop. With the workpiece standing on
edge against the miter gaug"e, make a
pass on each end.
Sneak up on the final blade height,
makinR" a pass on cach edge until the
distance bctween the kerfs is 5 1l • If your
saw blade won't go high enough, use a
hand saw to finish the cuts. Then
for the apron and the notches for the back face of the bottom cleat and screw
bottom cleat are cul so their bottom and glue it to the bottom cleat (Fig. 7).
edges are 9!f4" from the bottom edge of Cut two bottom supports (N) 143N'
each side panel (Fig.•'1). long. Butt them against the underside
Once the remaining notch and the V· of the boltom (M), lhen screw (don't
grooves are cut in each side panel, you g-lue) Ule1l1 to the side panels (Fig. 7).
can assemble the sides with the back Cut three seat slats 0) and a hinge slat
panel and apron. (L) \0 width (5'1) and to rough length.
~ext, cut the side supports (H) to fit Glue up the three scat slats U) to
between the back panel and the apron make the seal. panel. When ies dry, cut
(Fig. 4). Screw (don't glue) them to the it to rmished lensrth so it will fit betwecn
sides. Tben cut the corner blocks (G) to the side panels, kss IN'.
length to fit between the side supports Cut V-grooves along the glue joints
and the top ofthe groove in the apron. and complete the edges of the seat as
Finally, add the back support 0). shown in Figil. 11 a and 11 b on page 101.
Note: -J1Jere is no frout support. To match the seat panel, chamfer the
Now you can glue up a panel (or the jhnd and 'lide edges of the hinge slat
bottom (M). When the glue is dry, cut it and 1-eUl' edge of the seat panel.
to len!-,t1.h 10 fit between the side panels. To position the hinges on the hinge
Its width will be the distance from the slat (1.), measure 3%" from each end
back face of the bottom cleat (8) to the (Fig. 5). Center 111e third hinge on the
back ofthe apron, plus WI (Fig. 7). slat's length. At these positions, cut
Slkle the bo1.l.olll panel illto the groove mortises the full depth oIlhc hinges.
~ ..
in the apron. Align its rear edge with the Cenler the hinge slat between the

~
-.J
remove the wasle with a back saw.
Rout III chamfers on all the edges of
\.he tenons.
• Cut a V-groove along the joint line as
shown in Fig. 7a on page 100.
• To accept the boltom panel (added
I5
..
,,
0 .
I
I

I
I
CENTER CLEAT

,
'@ 0
I I
,,
5

later) cut a %".wide groove %'1 deep on

the back face of the apron (FifJ.1!).111e
top edge of the groove should align with
37,1'_1
I I
, !
the bottom of \.he tenon. 1'1" 1
• TIle apron pattern on this bench has
shallower curves (Fig. 2). Layout the
pattern so it's below the groove.
I I- .. BOTIOM ClEAT
I. ~ SIDE
16%

I
. •®_ ,
PANEL
1L
0

• Tbe side panels have two differences

from the regular bench. The mortises -~r·
, I
,-- --t
I,
NOTE; GLUE UP APRON BlANK
FROM'f'NO %"-W1DE PIECES
, CUT¥o"·WlDE ~- -_ .. -
5
.
j
., t
.~-,

I JOINT LINE --........ APRON@ GR""'"

1'1 ~ .----- ---- "
ONE SQUARE = ONE INOi
---.------ W DEEe_--..

J
-------

/ ,~. ---'6\; I->

I; _
'L,=====
_______________ • 0 -
5•
I
~ ~ / ~ .J.

102 COUNTRY PROJECTS

 MATERIALS UST
CHANGED PARTS
A BackSlals(10) %x5-37%
DApron(l) 'IAx11-52
G Corner Blocks (2) I'll x Ph - 611.,
H Side Supports (2) 1111. x til? - 14.lf4
I BackSupporl(1) 111;xl'h-47
J Seal Slats (3) % x 5 - 49'1~
NEW PARTS
L Hinge Slat (1) %x5-493j~
MBoHam(l} %x16%-50
N 8tm. Supports (2) 1'/:;, x 1 '12 - 14"%
o Seat Cleats (3) 3/1 x 1. - 11
Note: Don't need part K, only one part I

HARDWARE SUPPLIES
(3) PIa" x 21/2" butlhingcs
(55) #8 x 11/4' Fh woodscrews
(42) 1t8 x 2· Fh woodscrews

sides. Glue it to the back support (I),

tig-ht againsllhe bench back (Fir,. 5).
(Do not glue the slat to the back panel.)
Now cut three seat deaL'I (0). Their
length is the distance from the front
edge of the hinge slat to the inside edge
of the apron, less '14'1. Cui a 31811 chamfer
across each end (Fig. (j),
Mount a seat. cleat 3%;' from each end
or the seat (Fig. 6). Mount the third
cleat centered on the scat's length. The
cleats should be flush with the rear
edge of the seat panel.
Screw the hinges to lhe rear hinge slat
and then screw the seat panel in place.

,I
HINGESl.AT

~)
~@ NOTE: TO
CORNER ALLOW BOTTOM TO
EXPAND AND CONTRAa, ,---..-'
BLO<jf BACK SUPPORT NOTE; cur j SCREW IT ONLY
MORTISE TO FUll TO THE BOTTOM
#Sx2" " CLEAT
Fh WOODSCREVoJS ~ DEPTH Of HINGE

II
d>-/ ®
I'I
I NOTE: SCREW BUT DO '
NOT GLUE SUPPORTS TO
BACK AND SIDE PANELS
I BACK
SUPPORT
i
I
SEATCLEAT@
#8 x w.' Fh WOODSCREW""
i. ) #8 x 2"
I®
I ! NOTE:
DO NOT GLUE
Fh WOODSCREW
I (..----
...

CLEATS TO SEAT

a. r -'!J" ROUNDOVER
.
t •'t:-®
{j) :v-=~~ BOTTOM
SEAT SEAT CLEAT 'l!Y SUPPORT
SCA" @~ BOTTOM

HIGHvBACK BENCH 103

 [J~D~GiJD[?8@
I orous shakinJ,! (with the lid on) helps
owdo you add 150 years of age ami
wear to a project in just a short
time? Part of the secret is knowing whaL
finish might have been used that long
ago. A good guess would be milk paint.
PRE-MIXED POWDER. It's called milk
paint because milk was one uribe mate-
rials farmers used when they had lo
The casiest way to usc milk paint is to
simply brush all a couple of coats over
bare wood. The result is a flat, dull color
that has a rough texture once it's dried.
PREPARATION. Milk painL doesn't
require a primer. After you've mixed up
a batch of milk paint, just wipe the work-
piece down with a damp sponge. This
prevents the wood from drawing water
104 COUNTRY PROJECTS
make their own paint. But that doesn't
mean you can run down to the grocery
store and get a quart of 2%, then add a
few ingredients to end up with milk
painl. The pigments and inR"redienrs
can be found, but to be honest, it's a lot
more convenient just to buy pre-mixed
Ix>Wder. (For sources, see page 126.)
out of the first coat of paint, and it allows
the paint to cure as it's drying.
PAINTING. 'With the wood still damp,
brush on the first coat of milk paint with
a stiff bristle brush. (Foam brushes can
cause streaking.) 'nlen allow the first
coat to dry at least four hours.
Lf you want to completely cover the
wood ,grain, apply a second coat of paint.
Milk f1:1int
MIXING PRE-MIX. All you have to do
with the pre-mix is add together equal
parts (by volume) of water and powder.
I usc a large, dean jar to mix in. A vig-
dissolve most of the powder.
To remove any powder clumps (haL
weren'l completely dissolved during
the mixing, strain the solution through
cheesecloth.Uthe clwnps are left in tile
mixture, they will break open during
brushing and powder will be smeared
across the wood.
DIFFERENT RESULTS. One of the neat
things about using milk pain\" is you can
get different results by using difJcrent
techniques as shown below. You can
just brush it on and be done, or use
antiquing steps to make a project look
old and worn. (For the bench shown
above, I used the "Aging" technique.)
POLISHING. For a smoother, R'lossier
surface, lightly rub out the finish with a
nylon scouring pad. For a really pol-
ished surface, buff in a small amount of
Danish oil with a soft rag.
Note: The oil will darken the milk
paint, so it's a good idea 10 test it first on
a hidden part of the project or on a
sample piece of painted wood.
1. Apply the first coat of milk paint on
bare, dampened wood.
2. When the first coat is dry, apply the
second coat.
1 Let paint dry overnight, then smooth
by buffing with a nylon scouring pad.
4. Polish with a light COdt of Danish oi!.
In Colonial days, a couple coats of milk
paint were all that was required for a
piece of furniture. With daily use, the
paint slowly wore away and exposed
some of the wood. And \.he more the
piece was used, the more polished the
paint and wood became.
AGED LOOK. To simulate this look,
first apply a coat of stain over the bare
AY
'VllCfl a piece of furniture required a
new coat of milk paint, sometimes a dif-
ferent color was used. And if the top
layer was dinged or scratched, the
underlying color would show through.
DINGS AND SCRATCHES. When lay·
ering milk paint, I like to give the piece a
little ~lIatural~ wear first.
I
::\1ilk paint left in the sun or elements
would often dry out and ~al1igator:'
CRACKLE FINISH. To simulate this
look, a special crackle gel is used. (For
sources, see page 126.)
First, I stained the bare wood. ll1en I
applied the first coat of milk paint.
Note: Only apply stain if you're
going to create wear spot.." later.
wood. Once the stain has dried, apply
two coats of milk paint. Let the first coat
dry before adding the second coat.
The next step is to simulate years of
daily usc. On the bel1ch, I sanded areas
that would have been rubbed on, sat 011,
and even scuffed with boots and shoes.
Using 180 grit sandpaper, lightly
sand the selected areas down to the
To do this, use the edge of a small file
to make dings and scratches wherever
they may have normally occurred. At
arst, there's a tendency to be cautious,
but once you get started it's easy to gel
carried away - don't. When you're
through distressing, stain the entire
piece to simulate aRed wood.
Once the milk paint is thoroughly
dry, brush the crackle gel on the paint
Note: You may wanl" to simulate
where sunlight took its toll by only
applying the crackle gel on places that
may have been directly hit by sunlight.
Once the crackle gel has dried for
two hours, apply the next color of milk
paint. Don't brush this coat of milk paint
stain - bUl don't sand throo... dIr
stain 10 expose tht' bare wood ~
do happen to sand through the- .....'2IIL.
just touch up the area ",ith mort' - .
POLISH. To remove the rough te:J31Ir'r
and tlat, dull look of the milk paint. I'lIIJ
out the entire piece .....ith a nyloo
scouring Vad. 11lCfl buff in a coat of
Danish oil to darken and polish it.
1. To simulate aged wood, app 0f'Ie
coat of stain over the bare 'NOOd
2. Apply two coars of piJ n! ..e7 e'<Kt':
coal dry thoroughly
l, Lightly sand through fM
expose the stained vJOCld beJol,v
4. Rub out and fXJ/ish w :r Dantsn
LAYERING. Once the ,;tain l~ dry,
apply the (jrs! coal of milk painL \\ben
it's dry, apply the second color.
After the paint dries. rub out the-
entire piece with a nylon scouring pad
to remove the paint's rough textun'
'l11CO create wear spots and polish the
finish with Danish oil.
1. Apply the first coat of m >( pa n' ~
on stained wood.
2. Apply the second coat of po "7 :J'?
over the first color.
], Lightly sand through the rOf' cokx ::::l
expose the bottom eofor.
4, Polish with a light coat 0: DiJ"rs/l
too much - the paint and gel may mix
together into a messy sludge_ Simply
load the brush up with painL then ~
it in one smooth stroke. The .aIliga-
toring~ will appear as the paint dJies.
POLISH. 'When the fmal coat of paint
is dry, rub out the entire piect" 'Aim ~
nylon scouring pad. Create wear _
(if desired) and buff with Danish lil
1. Apply the first coat of m Ie po r' 'f:d
on stained wood.
2. When the first coat fS dry, ,a::dy
crackle gel. Allow to dry M'O hours
l. Apply the second coat of pa nr g"E'!?"l
over the gel.
4. Polish with a light coat of DantSh ()I
HIGH-BACK BENCH lOS
Jelly Cupboard
Back when jelly was made at home, a simple cupboard like this stored the finished product.
But even a simple cupboard can still offer some interesting joinery and several options to "dress it up."

very fall, my grandma made home-

E made jelly. After each jar was

sealed, it was set in a jelly cup-
board similar to this one to cool.
I always liked the "down·home" look
of that cabinet and tried to duplicate
that appearance with this version.
JOINERY. The shelves in this cup-
board could have been mounted on
adjustable shelI brackets. But I did
something different this time.
By gluing the shelves into dadoes in
the cupboard sides, the shelves are per-
manently attached. '1l1is helps keep the
cabinet from racking. So the shelves are
bol.h functional and structural.
The door frame is assembled with
half-lap joinb reinforced with dowel
pim, at the corners. This joint is easily
cut on the table saw or router table.
TIN PANELS. The door holds four tin
panels. The pattern punched in each
one is decorative, but it also serves a
practical purpose. 11lC holes allowed air
to circulate so moisture from the jelly
wouldn't build up inside the cabinet.
And making these panels is easy.
Just use a punch and follow a pattern.
You can draw your own pattern or
Woodsmilh Project S11pplies offers the
patterns shown on the opposite page.
Sec page 126 for more del:1ils.
The cupboard can also be built with
wood raised panels instead of tin. The
Designer's l\"otebook on page 113
shows how to make this option.
BACK SLATS. Ordinarily 1 use ply-
wood for a cabinet back, but for a
"country" project like this. ply-wood
seemed out of place.
So I used solid pine - but not a
glued-up panel. Instead, I cut rabbets
on the slats for a "ship lap" joint. This
allows them to expand and contract
without pushing on the cupboard sides.
FINISH. To prevent a blotchy finish, I
coated the pine with a sealer first. 'Then
I stained it to make it look aged.

106 COUNTRY PROJECTS

 EXPLODED VIEW
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
20W x 12%0 x 58H

PUNCHeD TIN PATTERNS

(SEE SOURCES ON PAGE 126)
rc---'-----,-"
:: i

KEEPER

"""
®~
""
FACING
STRIP
@
2" Bun
HINGE ,
0 • \

,.
"--~ t~: _.. .
. .
. :~;;
HARVEST FRUIT GRANDMA'S PIE
...............................,
,......
:.~~::.
PUNCHED
,c:. -::::'" ?""
""
PANEL
>, J;;;tj~;7i'
'-- ~
.::.....) .- ., ....:.. .'>,. ( .....:..•.....; '
' ••••• -' ..... ,< •• >"

....................... .............. ".(.....

HEARTS ON A BLANKET FRUfT BASKET

··········:,····",,··· /P
""'"
DIVIDER
Iii \.
~

SPRING FLOWERS DAISY SWIRL

®j MATERIALS LIST
ROTTOM
CASE
00'" FAONG
(- :"14 x 11114 - 57 1/4
OOW"
""([J """ A Sides (2)
B Shelves (5) % x 10'12 - 173J~
KICKBQARD © C Side Facing Str. (2) % xl· 57'14
DOVVEL-_ SIDE
PIN ~ ~ -'.. . . -® FACING ® o TopFilcinyStrip(1) %xl-15 112
S!DE
® V KICKBOARD
STRIP E Bot.F~cingStrip(l) %x2-16 1/;,
F Kid.board (1) % X 5'/}.18 1/?
G Kickbd. Dwl. Pins (4) lf4 dowel- 211~
H Back Slats (4) % x 4% - 51 1/4
I Top(1) '%x 1H,,-2Q
DOOR
CUTTING DIAGRAM J Door Stiles (2) %x2 1/}-49%
%.714 60 (four Boards@3.3Bd. Ft. Each) K Door Rails (2) %x2 1h-16iJa
NOTE: PARTS G & L ARE CUT FROM AN L Door Dowel Pins (8) lf4 dowel· %
18" LENGTH OF Y~·DOWEL. M Door Dividers (3) 'l4x2 1h-12lfa
KEEPER STRIPS (N) ARE CUT FROM N Keeper Strips (16) 1j~ x %. 13 rough
OVERSIZE BLANKS.
CUT LATCH ROD (0) FROM"" DOWEL.
o Latch Rod (1) 3Je dowel- 1%
P Flipper(1) lJsx1/~·1IVI6
CUT FLIPPER (PI FROM SCRAP.
HARDWARE SUPPLIES
(24) No.8 x 1112. Fh woodscrews
(6) NO.8 x 1%" Fh woodscrevr.;
(3) 2" x 19J1G " butt hinges wi screws
(4 pieces) 10" x 14" tin (rough size)
(40) 112· wire brads
(1) JlI4" -dia. maple knob
(20) 4d (1 11) "·Iong) square cut finish nails
(optional)

JELLY CUPBOARD 107

 TAPE SPACER TO
STRAIGHTEDGE
~6­
r
/- ) I
Back when cupboards like this were a
common fixture in the kitchen or --l./I.YOUT
pantry, they would probably have been LINES FOR
DADOES
made of knotty pil](~. So to make this NOr£.: DADOES ARE 12W
APART. MEASURED TOP EDGE
jelly cupboard look authentic, I used TO TOP EDGE. ~ SEE SHOP
No.2 common pine. ';,."/-- ~.,," TIP BELOW
STRAIGKT FOR ROUTING
After letting the lumber dry out in BIT DIIDOES
the shop for two weeks, I started work NOlt:
on the sides of the cupboard. TO ROUT
CUT TO SIZE. In order to minimize the g~t~IDES THICKNESS
TOGETHER WITH
cupping that may occur with wide INSIDE FACES UP OF SHELVES
boards, I edge-glued each of the sides
from two narrower boards. When the
glue dried, I cutlhe sides (A) to a fin-
ished width of 11 W' and linished length
THICKNESS
oI57W'(Fiq. O. OF BACK
SHElf DADOES. Five shelves hold the
sides of the cupboard together. The
shelves arc held in {Jadoes spaced apart
evenly (Fig. 1). But there are a couple
tricks to routing the dadoes in the fiides AUX
FENCE AUX.
and getting them to align after the cup- FENCE
board is assembled.
First, I damped bolh cupboard sides
together with their top ends flush and
the inside faces np (Pig.t). Then [ laid passes by using a removable "pacer stand the sides up first. and mark the
out the positions of the dadoes by mea· against the straightedge (Fig. 1). (Refer edges 10 be rabbeted.
suring down from the top end. to the Shop Tip below for details.) DECORATIVE CUTOUTS. The last cuts
To follow the layout lines for the' BACK RABBET. After rouling the [0 make on the cupboard sides look
dadoes, 1 guided the router against a dadoes for the shelves, a rabbet call be simply to be decorative - but they also
straightedge clamped to the workpiece. cut in each cupboard side for installing serve a purpose.
And because the pine for the shelves the back slat,; (Fi,qlj. 2 und2u). 'l1lC semi-circular cutout at the
was slightly lesff than %'1 thick, I Ilsecl a :'\lotc: To make sure the rabbets arc bottom of each piece creates a pair of
WI straig-ht bit in the router. J routed routed along the correct CURes (the "feet." (Fiy. ,7). This allows the cabinet
each dado to the correct width in two sides are "mirror" image,,), it helps to to "bridge" uneven spots in the noor.

0[gX§)[p 'jJ!][p. . Routing Custom-Fit Dadoes

When cutting a dado in a
large panel. Ifind using a
hand-held router is easier
than wrestling with a large
panel on my table saw or
router table.
Since lumber is rarely the
exact same thickness as
the diameter of a router
bit, I use a smaller bit and
make two passes.
To do this, Iset up a
fence with a soacer strip
that determines the exact
finished width of the
dado. The width of the
strip, plus the diameter of
the router bit should equal
the finished width of the
dado (Fig. 1a). After the
first pass, remove the
spacer. Then make the
second pass to complete
the dado (Fig. 2).

, I a. SPACER-
""'"
PASS

--I:;;?;i~,,:;~1~STRAJGHT
BIT-""-- --:--.:.

REMOVE SPACER;::0 SECOND

TO COMPlETE D~
ROUT IN
-_._--'"
.:.:....
cr~-~_
O'ASS

DIREGION
OF ARROW

108 COUNTRY PROJECTS

 .-®
/ " SHELF
/
ClIT FIVE SHElVES
~ FROM b12 STOCK
SIDE@

(
FRONT
"'., ,
BACK
~,- ~------
17% ...............-......::::::::-...· ,,/-
EDGE i-t---4---t--'-1 EDGE ~~1O"
--j, ~6~ NOTE: IF lx121S CUPPED, RIP SHElf INTO
THIRDS AND REGLUE WITH MIDDLE ~ECE
UPSIDE DOWN, THEN PlANE FLAT
C1iECK
Fa'
SQUARE
•
\..
Note: Although the feet start out dif-
ferent widths, they'll eml up lhe same
after a facing strip is added to the front
(refer to Fig. 6 on page 110).
After laying out the arc..<;, I used a jig
saw to cut just shy of the layout lines.
Then I smoothed up to the line with a
drum sander.
SHELVES. I\ext, I started on the
shelves. r cut these [rom lx12s. A single
board this wide will often cup. f( your
stock is cupf)Cd, one way to natten it is
to rip each shc1fblank in1J) thirds. Then
glue the blank together with the middle
piece upside down. When the glue Square-cut nails are an authentic detail. NOTE:----
dries, plane the blank fiat. To prevent splitting the wood, drill pilot AlJGN SHELVES
FlUSH WIll-' FRONT
Now the shelves can be ripped to holes before driving the nails. Then "set" OF CASE SIDES
AND SHOULDER
wid1h so they're nush with lhe front the heads just below the surface with a OF RABBET
edges of the sides and also the shoul- punch before sanding the side.
ders of the rabbets for the back slats
(Fi!!. 5). 111cn cut the shelves (B) 10 fill- assembled WitJl the shelves glued into If you don't have enough clamps (or
ished Icnl,,"th Wig. .0. To determine this the dadoes (Fig. !j). The Shop Tip (or an authentic antique touch), you
length, measure between the hottoms below shows one way to do this_ could assemble the case with square-
of the dadoes on the case sides. Note: Keep the shelves Dush to 1he cut nails (sec the photo above). (For
ASSEM8LY. Finally, lhe case can be front edges of lhe sides (A). sources of these nails, scc page 126.)

....... " .... "", Clamping With Wedges

While dry-assembling the
jelly cupboard, I ran into a
problem. When the
shelves were clamped
between the sides, the
centers of the side panels
cupped out (Fig. 1).
I came up with a fix that spacer glued on each end, the side pililel tight
uses opposing wedges. I stuck the spacers to the against the shelf, tap
These wedges work side of the Cdbinet using opposing wedges
against a clamping bar carpet tape. Then I between the clamping bar
that "straddles" the sides clamped the cupboard and the sides until the
(Fig. 2). This bar is simply a assembly together. shelf is completely seated
2x4 block with a '/2· -thick To force the center of in the dado (Fig. 2).

WHEN USING ClAMPS ONLY, WEDGES REMOVE W-THICK

SIDES CAN CUP AWAY FROM SHElf CUPPING SPACER a.
( ( ,.J

ClAM~NG
ClAMPING
BM "'''

JELLY CUPBOARD 109

 C I
a' l ...--~@
/ TOf' To create a frame that surrounds the
FACING
door, facing strips are added next.
srn"
The facing StrillS afC attached to the
front edges of the cabinet sides and to
we the top and bottom shelves (Fig. 6).
FACING
srn"
Wxl"·16Y:>" RIPTO WIDTH. First, I ripped two side
TOP---
SHElf © facing strips (C) and one top facing strip
/SIDE (D) to a width of 11' (pig. (j).
FACING
STRIP SIDE STRIPS. Now cuL the side slrips
N~
AUGN TOP to the same JenJ{th as the cupboard
FACING STRIP sides. Then glue these to the sides,
WITH TOPS OF
©~ SIDE FACING STRJPS flush with thc outside edges.
SIDE TOP AND BOTTOM STRIPS. l\ext, I
FACING
STRIP ripped a 2"-wide piece for the bottom
Wxl"·sn;"
b. facing strip (E) (Fig. 0).
Then the top and bottom facing
strips (D, E) can be cut to length to fit
snugly between the side strips.
ATTACH TO CASE. Refore gluing on

I"© the top and bottom strips, make marks

on the top and bottom shelves to indi-
catc where the strips should be glued

~~/
SIDE
FACING on (Fi{j.~. fia rt1ul fib). By leaving %'1 of
srn" each shelf euge exposed, a lip is created
®
BOTIOM
at the top and bottom of the door
opening. These lips serve as stops for
FACING
SlRlP the door (attached later).
FACING SlRIP
0/0")1. 2" - 16\0'/

A kickboanl at the bottom of the cup.-

board adds a decorative touch.
CUT TO SIZE. To make the kick board
(F), first rip a piece of 1!4'I-thick stock to
a width of 5'h" (Fig. 7). Then cnt it to
length Lo match the width of the case.
ROUND OVER TOP EDGE. Next, to
soften the transition between the kick-
board and the lower facing strip, rout a
112" roundover along the top outsidc
edge of the kick board (Pig. 7a).
TOE OPENING. To make a toe
opening on the kick board, I used my jig
s<\w to cut out a profile along the bottom
a. edge (Fig. 7).
, "-WIDE
REVEAl /
®
..,
ATTACH TO CASE. Now the kickboard

"
'--®r~;o"i
5~N
can be attached to the casco But I did
this with dowel pins (G) (Fi,q. 8). First,

rD
lilt
® ',,-
- ---,
- ---- DRILL
damp the kickboard to the case and
drill two 1f4"-<lia. holes that go through
the kick board and facing strip into the
~l~ i"'!'"cI-1""t"i5~~ cupboard side (Fig. 8a).
Then cut four lengths of dowel to fit
KICKBOARD in the holes.
DOWEL PIN
V.·-DIA.x-~ NOTE,
ATTACH KICKBOARD
--.---
-'''0..., Note: Cut the dowels so Lhey stand
lV,' LONG ?/
© WITH GLUE AND
DOWEL PlNS rL' © proud of the kickboanl when they're
tappen into the holes (Fig. 8a). Then
'" they can be trimmed and sanded flush
aIler they're glued in place.

110 COUNTRY PROJECTS

BACK TO
The back of the cupboard is made of
individual slats to allow for plenty of
expansion and contraction.
CUT TO SIZE. To make the back, start
by ripping [our back slats (H) from %"-
thick slock to the same width (Fig. 9).
The finished width allows for a I/ujl! gap
between the installed slats (Fig. !}a).
Next, cut the slats to finished length
so they extend [rom the top of the cab-
inet sides to the bottom of the lower
shclf(Fig..9),
SHIP LAPS. The ship lap joint is really
just ovcrlapJlin~ rabbets. The rabbets
are cut to a depth half the thickness of
the pieces (%"), and to identical width.
Note: Cut rabbets on th(~ 07Jl)().~ile
edges of the middle slats, but on just
one edge of each outside slat (Fig. !)a).
U) and two door rails (K) to finished
width (Fig. 11).
Then, to determine the length ofihe
pieces, measure between the facing
strips and subtract lis" to allow for a 1/11;"
gap all around the door. Cut the .frame
pieces to finished length (Fig. 11).
END lAPS.l\ow cut the end lap joints
half the thickness of each of the mating
pieces (Fig. lJa).
After the lap joint.,> are cut, the frame
can be glued and clamped together.
®
BACK --
a. _
~ ,r
CORNER PINS. I\cxt, I drilled two WI-
dia. holes through each corner of the
(rame for the dowel pins (I.) (Pig. lla).
Then glue the pins into the holes and
trim them flush with the frame.
RABBET. When the frame is assem·
bled, rout a rabbet around the
perimeter of the door opening in the
back side (Figs. 12 nnd 12a). This cre-
ates a lip for the door panels.
When the rabbet is cut. square up
the corners with a chisel (Fig.12b).
NOTE:
SlATS HAVE
EQUAL GAPS
BETWEEN THEM
4%-.., CROSSSECTJON

-->j~ E~'-r-I
ATIACH SLATS. Now the back slats SCAT
can be screwed to the cabinet, keeping
the gaps between them equal (}'ig. 9a).
TOP. The top (I) is an edge-glued
,#axl\?" \
" .
Fh WOODSCREW "'-- ¥s" x 'l1l" lAPS
blank (Pig. 10). Cut itto finished size to
allow for a V~'1 overhang at the front and
sides (Fig. lOa) but nut the back.
Next, rout 'N' roundovers on the
edges of the top, and sand a 1/1l" radius a. CROSS SECTION
on the corners. l\ow the top can be
attached using woodscrews driven up CD TOP
from below (Fig. lOa).
® SHELF
D ORFRA
~
'111e door of the cupboard isa frame and NOTE:
ROUT%"
r~' ~~"1
,
I/8xllj.,"
Fh
p;mel unit. Hs construction is the same ROUNDOVER
ON All EDGES.
! ®
SIDE
Hi WOODSCREW
whether you use tin or wood panels. SANDi's"
DOOR FRAME. To make the door RADIUS ON
CORNERS
frame, start by ripping two door stiles

NOTE:
TOPJtlOTTOM ROlIT RABBET
IWL TO DEPTH IN
MULTIPlE PASSES
® (SEE DETAlL a)
~.~.J SEE
DETAlL b
----'

a.

NOTE: ;)
" ~ aNTEFl SQUARE UP
~

'"
PINSON CORNERS WITH
®
TOPIBOTTOM
'~' "\ STILE CHISEL
IWL ~. '---------"

JELLY CUPBOARD 111

 KEEP:ER®/-~
When the frame of the door is com-
plete, the dividers (M) can be built. The
purpose of the dividers is to separate-
and support - the door panels.
CENTER DIVIDERS. Start by ripping
TIN
10' x 12'
p=/~'
~~.~.~.. ,.~.~'~.~'~";;;;±'
•
;CENTERv"••DIA.
HOlE ON WlD~
OF STILE

three blanks to finished width (Fig. 1.'3).

Then cut them to length to fit between DMDER
''V
-¥.' x 2W -12W
the rabbets in the door frame.
TONGUES. The dividers are held in KEEP:ER
---~p
place by a short tongue on each end
(/<'i,q. 18). r used a dado blade to cut the
rubbets that form the ton&'lles Wig. H). NOTE:
DMDERSARE
;o''''rJ
, LATGI
, '
W WIRE PUNCHED TIN
EDGE RABBETS. :Jow the dividers can INSTALLED AT I ® ROD BRAD
utflush down into the frame. But first, in EQUAL FA~~ FUPf'ER
INTERVALS
order to completely support the panels,
two more rabbets are needed on the
edges of each divider (f··iy. iDa).
To cut these rabbets, I again used my
dado blade (Fig . .1:";). Cut these with the
front of the divider facing up.
KEEPER STRIPS. Once the dividers arc CUTRAB8ET
ON END
glued in place, work can begin on the
keeper strips.
The panels arc held in place by small
,.-.--
quarter-round keeper strips (1\) that " f -..J1-%
are nailed to the door frame (Fig. lsa).
To make these keeper strips, first rout
1/4 1' roundovcrs on both edges of a blank ",.. ROUNDOVER
(Pig. 16). Then sel the rip fence IN'
(rom the blade and cui a 3/8"-deep kerf NOTE:
USE PUSH
a.
on each edge. Finally, to separate a STICK ",.
keeper strip from each edge, run the
blank through the blade face down so
the keeper strip falls to the waste side
(Fig. 17). 11lis prevents kickback.
KEEPER
TIN PANELS. To make the tin panels, STRIP
tapc your pattern to the tin blank, then ®
fasten the blank La a hardboard backing
board. Punch the holes by striking an
awl with a hammer. Usc softer strikes shallow mortise for each hin/{c in the A short "flipper" (I') fits in a slot in
for smaller holes, heavier strikes for door stile and the facing strip Wig . .18a the end of the dowel Wig. 19). When
larger holes. Whcn each panel is fill- and the Exploded View all pa,ge 107). the knob is turncd, the flipper will calch
isheo, trim it to size and secure it in the DOOR KNOB. Next, 1built a knob and the facing strip and prevent lhe door
door (Vi,q. IBn). latch assembly. To smrt, drill a 3N I-clia. from swinging open (see photo).
MORTISES. After the panels arc in hole through the door stile (Fig. [,'1). FINISH. I\ow the cupboard can be
place, the door is att.ached to the case. r lllCIl drill a hole in the wooden knob to stained and finished. Since pine can
used three 2'I-long hinges and cut a accept a length o( dowel (0) (Fi,q.19a). stain unevenly, use a sealer first. _

I'!!'I"@ I.. DOOR LA'CH

LAY OUT
POSITIONS a. -<:\......_ ~~- 1___ ASSEMBLY

, , '. . '. ~'""

"'?:?::::,j J
OF MORTISES
FOR HINGES

~
THICKNESS ~ ...- •./'"
OF FUPf'ER ,""";-<
MORTISE
DEPrH EQUAl.5 MATCHES SLOT --, "::>...~
THICKNESS OF IN DOWEL / -
HINGE LEAF

Before gluing the latch together; make

sure it wi/I rotate. If it doesn't, lightly
-,"!":-
sand the dowel until it does.

112 COUNTRY PROJECTS

Change the look of the cupboardjust by using solid wood panels instead ofpunched tin.
These raised panels can be made entirely on the table saw.

To make the wood pallel~ (Q), g-luc up

four blanks from IN'-thick stock.
Measure the rabbeted openings in the
back of the door frame. Cut the panels
tN' less than these measurements 10
allow for a l/l(t gap all around (Fig. 2).
To steady the panels. fasLen a tall aux-
iliary fence to the tnble saw rip fence
(Fig. 1). Then tilt the table saw blade
10° and raise the blade to lV,,,r'.
CUI the bevels in rwo passes, moving
the rip fence slightly between passes.
The ill'S! pass removes most of the
waste. 111C second "skim" cut cleans up
burn marks or blade swirls and creates
the 1/16tl- w ide shoulder (Fig. 2).
Not.e: Before moving the rip knee
for the second pass, cut the bevels on all
the edges of all your panels.
Cut across the end j,,'Tain edges first.
Then any chipout will be removed when
the cut is made on the face ~rain edges.
The tilted blade will slighlly undercut
the shoulder. To square it up, make a
sanding block with a bevel on one edge
that matches the bevel on lhe panels.
To make a tongue OIl llle edge of the
panel, cut a ~N'-widc rabbet '14'1 deep on
the back edR'es (Fly. 2).
Now, fasten the panels in the door
with keeper strips (Fig. 2).

MATERIALS UST
NEW PARTS
Q Door Panels (4) %~9%-12
Note: Don't need tin panels

CUT PROFILE
ON ENDS
FIRST ""'"
SEOION
SOUDWOOD
DOOR PANEL
KEEPER
STRIP - ©

RAJSE BLADE
1J,j," ABOVE TABLE
ANDTlLT 10· \
- -
TAU
AUXILIARY
"-:::;'-Y'
Y \1"IMRE
BRAD
\-J<'
SHOULDER
FENCE (SQUARE UP If a panel shrinks, an unfinished edge
""'"
SANDING BLOC1() may be exposed. To prevent this, apply
finish before mounting it in the frame.

JEUY CUPBOARD 111

Dovetail Chest
Hand-cut dovetails give this chest a traditional country look and also add strength to each corner.
For adifferent look, try the frame and panel version. Both offer plenty ofstorage and apull-out tray.
au don't want to rush hand-cut
dovetails. They require careful,
deliberate work. That doesn't
mean they have to be perfect. After all,
hanrJ.cut dovetails aren't ,l{oing to be
machine-precise - especially when
you're working with wide panels. BUl
Ihal fils the charm of this chest.
STEp·BY·STEP DOVETAILS. There was
a time when I found the thought of CUl-
ling dovetails by hand rather intimi-
dating. Hut that was be.fore someone
walked me through it step-by-step. So if
you've never tried your hand at cutting
this joint, we have complete, detailed
instructions beginning on page 120.
114 COUNTRY PROJECTS
FRAME AND PANEL OPTION. We also
oHer a frame and panel version of the
chesL This style has a more formal
appearance. Details on building this
chest arc in the Designer's Kotebook
on page 124.
TRAY. Both versions offer a lift-out
tray. It rides on a couple of runners fas-
tened to the front and back uIthe chest,
so there's still storage below it.
The tray is built with a single wide
tail at each corner. So even if you don't
cut the dovet<\ils for the chest, the tray
offers a chance to try the technique on a
smaller scale. It's sorL of a "project
within a projece"
FINISH. r wanted a finish that would
match the "antique" character of the
chest. So I chose a finish that adds char-
acter to many antiques - shellac.
Shel1ac has been used on furniture a
long time, and its color adds a natural
warmth that's hard to get from an off-
the-shell stain.
OJ course, many woodworkers think
of shellac as a "delicate" finish. And
while it may not match the durability 01
polyurethane, a lot of antiqucs finished
with shellac h,lVC put up with years of
wear. And it's not difficult to apl-lly
either. For step-by-step instructions,
sec the box on page 119.
EXPLODED VIEW
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
38lfaW x 18 14D l( 19 9f16H

TRAY FRONT
Q)

"--- =
'~

I
,
/TRIM
@"END
""M \
FRONT~
BOTTOM
i ©

NOTE:
All PANELS ARE \ BASE
GLUED UP FROM
SOLID WOOD "'-- END
-(])

eASE
FRONT
®-

MATERIALS LIST
WOOD
A FrontIBack (2) ;/4X 18lf1 -36 CUTTJNGDIAGRAM
BEnds (2) %x18'/,-'6
C Bottom (1) %x15'/a -35'/g % x 5·96 (Four Bwrds 0 33,~,,~,~,,~,~"'~h;'~ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ - _
o TrilY Supports (2)
E Base FrtJBk. (2)
-% x 3fs - 34V2 [--~- ;'-- 1 A" _ 1- -, B::J;J
1'/'6 X3 - 40 rough
*
F Base Fnds (2)
G Trim rrtJBk. (tI)
H Trim End~ (4)
111'6 x 3 -;>0 rough
"Iz x % - 40 rouCJh
"h x 31" - 20 rough
I
%x 5-96
B --r
x 5 - 96 (Two Boards 0 3.3 Bd. Ft. Each)
B •

{Two Boords 0 3".3"",,,",'~'~'~"~hl,,

• • _T
~_~D:.... _ _
~222~~
I lid (1) 1V 16X 18-38
J Tray Frt./Bk. (2)
K Tray Ends (2)
3/4x 311) - 24
%1.3'1,-14%
C~ : 00'" _~: _m_C,,_=::W~
L Tray Bo:tom (1) 1h x 13lf2 - 23% ~x8-96 (53Sq,Ft)
L
HARDWARE SUPPLIES bH Fl.: L~j#l~~~
(2) NO.8 x "Is" Rh brdss~rcws
(l) 15" uri:l~schain
".'· --~F~-- ~~
I
x 8 - 96 (Two Boards,' • 66 Bd ". '''''' [ ."

__-'---.J'~~..:3
(1 pr.l 3· no-mortise hinges wi screws

DOVETAIL CHEST 115

TIlis dovew.il chest sw.rls out as you'd
expect: R"luinR" up oversi'l.ed panels for
each of the sides and for the bottom.
There isn't anything unusual or difficult
about these five ·%"-thick panels. '!lIe
imllortanl thing is that they are l1at and
that the four side panels are all the same
thickness. 'l'hiswilJ make it much casicr
when it comes time to cut the dovetails.
After the panels are glued up, the
next step is to cut the frollt/back panels
(A) and end panels (B) to finished size
(Fig. I). (lne bottom will be cut to size
later.) I began by simply ripping each of
these panels to width. But when cross-
cutting, the long panels require some
extra support. To do this, I added a long
auxiliary fence to the miter gauge. '111is
way, it's much easier to get the cnds of
the panels square to the sides.
DOVETAILS. Arter the panels arc cut pleted, it looks the same as the other
to si'l.e, work can begin OIl the dovetails. pins (Fig. 3).
111C dovetails arc laid out 3IN' on center
(Fig. 2). This allows for 3'I-widc tails and tails can now be cul.
and 112 1' pins,
Actually, not all the pins :Ire 11211 • 'nlC on cutting dovetails by hand, see the
top one is a little wider (1"). l{ut the Joinery article beginning on page 120.
extra width is covered by some IIlolding
FRONTIBACK
~\
, 'Ine first two grooves arc for the tray
f-- .
"1 i·
'- , I·
-.~'
T==:=:.
3
~ I
\..-1·-_____.
3
,-----
" '--1_____
i
f
3
©)
BOTIOM
:;"'x 1514'.35%"
added later, so oncc the chest is com-
With the layout finished, the pins
Note: For !Stcp-by-!Step instrucLions
GROOVES. When the dovetails are
complete, there arc some grooves to cut
in the panels before you can assemble
the case. I used a dado blade in the table
saw to cut these.
supports (added later). They are %"
wide, %1' deep, and cut un the inside
faces of the front and back panels only
(Fig . .4 ). I centered these grooves in
one of the pin openings. l1Jis way the
pins on the end panels will hide the
grooves when the case is assembled.
'Ine other groove is for the bottom of
the chest (/"·iy. Ii). res :W' wide, V..,I'
deep, and cut in all four pieces. 'lllis
groove cut<; through a tail, so it'll be vis-
ible from the outside when the case is
'Oh
®
FRONT /'
NOTE:
ALL CASE PANELS
lIRE GLUED UP FROM
"'"-THICK STOCK
first assembled. But don't worry about
lhis. Later, the groove will be covered
by the molding that's fastened to the
bottom of the ca!Se.
BOTTOM. Now it's time to begin work
on lhe bottom panel (C). But to do thi!S,
first you necd to dry-assemblc the casc.
Then you can measure the case
opening to determinc the final size of
the bottom (Fig. I). Remember to
include the depth of both grooves in
this measurement.
Because the bottom is a solid wood
panel amI not plywood, it needs enough
room to expand and contract with
changes in humirlity, To allow for this
movement, r cut the bottom (C) l/{
smaller than each dimension (Fill. 5a).
(Mine was 15%" x 35W'.)
CASE ASSEMBLY. After the bottom
panel is ready. you can glue the case
together (rig. (J). (Dul don't usc glue on
the bottom.) This takes quite a bit of
time, so r used white glue. It sets up
more slowly than yellow glue, so il gives
you a little more time to work.
----
®
FRONT/BACK

TRAY
SUPPORT

, '" o

I WIDE PlN
AT TOP 15
--,-
"® ENO - TAIL
COVERED BY
TRIM MOLDING
<ATE'
®
FRoNTIBACK

116 COUNTRY PROJECTS

 <ROSS
SECTION
&')~ liiIP
© Sanding Flush
BOTTOM
If the pins or tails (or both)
~ BOTTOMliI"
--~ -- SMAillR stand proud of the side, one
J.\,; _~ THAN
way to get them flush is to
-!-e!--t OPENING
use a belt sander. However,
it's easy to accidentally round
over a corner. To prevent
this, clamp a scrap piece
across the end of the case
flush with the panel the
NOTE:
CUTW-DEEP TO APPLY PRESSUR~ sander is riding on.
GROOVE FOR BOTTOM ClAMPS SHOULD Bt
IN AlL CASE PIECES POSITlONED OVER TAIlS

First, glue both end panels (B) to the At this point. the caRe is essentially
front panel (A). Then sli(le the bottom complete. BuL if there arc pins or lails
panel (C) into the groove before adding pWlrudin,g, you'll need to sand them
the back panel to the assembly. nush with the sides of the case (see the
TRAY SUPPORTS. While the glue is Shop Tip at right). If some pins or tails
dryinj{, Cllt two %"-widc tray supports need more trimming than can be easily
(D) to fit in the grooves inside the case sanded, see the Shop Jig box below for
(Fig. 4). This time, I wanted the glue to one way to trim them down.
set Ull fast, so I used yellow g'lue. That After the case is assembler! and the
way, 1didn't have to worry about using- corners are smooLhed, all that's leIl to
damps. Applying a little hand pressure do is add the base molding, the trim
[or a minute or Iwo was all it took. molding, and the lid.

, , , , , , , , , , , , Flush Trim Jig

ith this jig, a straight bit will trim This jig replaces the plastic base of tails before the biL call get near enough
any over-long pins or tails per- the router. That's because the edge of a to trim them flush. To solve that
reetly !lush with the sides. regular base wiJI run into the pins or problem, this auxiliary base raises the
router above the case side.
HANDLE
The base is simply a :IN'-thick piece
..J

..-/
m , of stock with a wide rabbet cut on Lhe
bottom (Step 1).

.t--.---,-
To make the base stable, it's cut

--, -.i,
-V extra long (mine was 11'T). And for
added control, there's a blo(k screwed
and glued to one end for a handle. Use
.~ •
o~., ,.- K?
the plastic base from your router as a
3 template to mark the mounting- holes
,I , 0 BASE
-t,
and the bit hole.
To use the jig, simply adjust the bit
o '
I, i
DIA.-
HOL£ ___
-C 3
fEED THE
height so iL trims Lhc pins or tails Dush
(Step 2). To do this, set the jig on the
J .J ROUTER SLOINLY Vv'HEN
,... II ----J TR!MMING THE PINS OR TAIlS case si(Ie. TIlen adjust the bit so it jWit
barely .l{razes the side panel. Now, with
First. build an auxiliary base from 3ftJ"·thick With the base on the case side, 111e bit extended past the casc, turn on
stock. A straight bit in the router trims the set the bit so it barely touches the router. Move it onl0 the case and
sides of the joint flush The wide rabbet along the case. Move the bit off the case, begin trimming. A slow feed rate will
the front of the jig provides cfe<Jrance for the bit start the router; and trim the joint. help prevent chipout.

DOVETAil CHEST 117

MOLDI
I've seen wide, thick base moldin~ on
some older chests. and I wanted the
base on this chest to look Ihe ,:>arne. So
instead of lIsing %"-thick slOck, I cut
the base pieces from 11/16"-Lhick stock.
BASE. The base front/back (E) and
base ends (F) are first cut to rough
len,gth [rom 3'l- wille blanks. Kcxt, cut a
necorative chamfer along the top edge
(Fig. 8b)./ did thisonlhc table sawwilh
the blade angled 15°. Then to complete
the base, miter tbe pieces to length and
glue lhcm to the case.
TRIM MOLDING. The next pieces to
add arc some strips of trim molding
(Fig. 7). Some of this trim will siton top
of the base molding. The rest will end
up flush with the lOp of the case.
To make the trim front/bnck (G) and
"'.
r----- ---
3·
NQ.MQRTlSE
HINGE -
118 COUNTRY PROJECTS
trim ends (H), start with blanks that are
WI thick ancl 2'1 wide (pig. Sa). Rout a
IN' cove along two ed~cs. Then two 311".
wide (tall) trim pieces can be ripped
from each blank. Miter the pieces to
length and glue them in place. (The
cove profiles should face each other.)
Finally, to prevent chipping the euge
if the chest gets dragged across the
Ooor, rout I/R" chamfers on the bottom
edges of the case and moldinl{ (F'ig.ll).
ID
Now that the case is complete, 1started
work on \he lid (Fig. 9). This means
you'll need to glue up another panel.
But this panel is 11/16 1' tllick.
Since you lift the lid from the edges, t
wanted it to overhang the case a bit. So
to determine the size of the lid (I), mca-
sure the case (including the trim) and
cut the lid panel II' longer and wider.
CHAMFER. I also wanted the lid to
have the same chamfer that's around
the base. But the panel is too long \0
stand on end on the table saw. So r used
a block plane to cut this.
Before planing, layout the edges of
the chamfer (Fig.lO).TIlen plane down
to these lines, sLarting with the ends of
the lid. To avoid chipout, skew the plane
slightly so it shears off thin shavings.
HINGES. When the chamfer is cut,
mount the lid to the case. To do chis, I
used a special "no-mortise hin,ge." It has
an o(fset barrel and, as you'd expect,
SKEW PLANE
TO REDUCE
CHIPOlJT _
a.
doesn't require a mortise ("'ig. 11),
(See page 126for sources of thi;; hinge.)
To mount the hinges, first screw
them to the case. Next, set the lid on top
of the case and center it sidl'-to-side and
front-ta-back. Then simply trace around
the barrels of the hinges on the bottom
of the lid. ::'row remove the lid and
hinges. Then screw the hinges to the lid
and reattach the hinges to the case,
LID SUPPORT CHAIN. The last thing to
add is a 15"-long piece of brass chain to
the inside of the case (Fig. 11). This
prevenL~ the lid from dropping back.
Safety Note: H children will be
opening and closing this lid, you should
protect their fingers by inscalling a lid
support. (Fonources, see page 126.)
HANDLES, Next, I wanted to add
some "handles" to the ends of the tray,
'Illcse handles are simply ~lols drilled ,
llild cut in the end pieces (Fig. L~). To 9
do this, first dri1l1"-dia. holes to estab- 3'
lish the length of the handle slot Then N().MORT/SE
HINGE
dean out the waste between the holes i
with a jig saw. Now sand the handles
and rout small chamfers on both the , ..
inside and outside edge;;. When that's
done, the tray can be glued together.
,
#ax%"
FINAL TOUCHES, There are just two BRASS ROUND-
HEAD SCREW
steps left. First, you want to chamfer lhe
inside and outside edges so there are no
sharp corners (Fig. 12). And finally,
~#~"'" "---
don't forget to plug the holes in the end
pieces that were created by the grooves
forthe tray bottom (rig. 1ft), •

y TRAY BACK 0)--", TRAY END

iii" CHAMFERS ON -",~.~y""''''-I''';~",,_
__ ®
With the lid attached, the last step is to INSIDE AND OUTSIDE _.--- " ~---
EDGES OF TRAY ~~-
build a tray that fils in the casc and ....f
slides back and forth on tray supports. <D

~
TRAY BonOM ~
First, the tray front/back 0) and tray _~ Yl:"X13Yl:"X23~~""'-:;; ~-
ends (I<) arc cut to finished size. Then
to join these pieces, I cut the dovetails ""~./
~ Y"'~

by hand (Fiys. II! and 1,'1),

GROOVE AND BOTTOM, :"Jext, I cut a ~
.J
Y.,xW
RABBET-
n 24
TRAY FRONT,
BACK. AND
NOTE:

IN-wide groove :%" deep in each piece ENDS ARE

~ If.·
NOTE: PLUG
[or the tray bottom Wig. 13). GROO'SVES AFTER TRAY ..... ~---
-0 THICK
._ ASSEMBLED TRAY FRONT
The tray bottom (1.) is a solid wood
pane!, glued up from Ill-thick stock
Wig. 12). Artcr the glue dried, I cut the iii" CHAMFERS
bottom to finished size. 'Ille panel
should fit inside tile tray (including lhe !
•
21'.1
NOTE: CUT TRAY
BonOM iii" SMALLER
CENTER,\ /
/ - ON INSIDE AND
OUTSIDE EDGES

grooves) minus 1/8". Of course, a 112'1- THAN GROOVE OPENING

/.'
thick panel won't lit into a 1/~'1 groove.
So I cut a %"-wide rabbet along the I ,
boUom edge of the tray bottom to
create a IN'-thick tonj.:!ue (Fig. 1:;).
,
I-~ - %

t?'D~~D[K]@ 'Ii'llP , Shellac

To give the chest a warm, "aged"
color, I used three coats of shellac.
The first coat was orange shellac.
This gave the wood a nice, warm
color - and it doesn't blotch like a
pigment-based stain will.
Then to keep the color light, but
still add more protection, I applied
two coats of blonde shellac.
Shellac comes ready-to-use or in
flakes that must be dissolved in
alcohol. (See page 126 for sources.)
Once dissolved, it begins to slowly
deteriorate. So that I know it's
fresh, I mix my own from flakes.
Shellac is mixed in "pound cuts"
- the number of pounds of flakes
to a gallon of alcohol. I used a 2 lb.
cut. But I only mixed up a pint at a
time (which requires 4 oz. of shellac
flakes). Don't worry about being
precise. Just get it in the ballpark.
To apply shellac, I use a natural
bristle brush. Don't work the finish
too much with the brush. The
shellac dries fast, so you can sand
lightly after about three hours and
apply another coat.

DOVETAil CHEST 119

 • • • • • Hand-Cut Dovetails
hich comes first, the pins or the
tails? Frankly, you can cut them
either way, but I like to start with the
pins. There are some reasons for this,
beyond the faet that ii's how J was
taught and how I've always cut them.
WHICH IS WHiCH? But maybe I'm
jumping the ~llll. Nler all, when you
look at Ihis joinl, it can be hard to tell
which is the tail and which is the pin.
The trick is to look at just thcface of
the board, not the ends (Pig. 1).
Looking at the face ofthe panel with the
tails, you'll see the tails nare out -like
a dove's tail. And from the face ofthe pin
panel, the pins look straight, sort oflike
boxjoinL<;. The pins slide in between the
tails, but unlike box joints, they can only
slide in one ctirection. 'Ibe angled sides
act as wedges, so you can't pull them
apart any other way. 1l1is wedge is what
makes a dovetail joint so strong.
PINS FIRST. So why do J cut the pins
first? There are a couple reasons. First,
I think the pins are easier to cut. But it's smooth. In fact, all they should nee<l is a (/<'ig. .9). '[be baselines show where to
also easier to cut them accurately. And if Hille finish sanding. It's also important stop CUlling and are drawn on both
they don't cnd up perfectly s(]uare to for the ends of the boards to be square faces (Fig. fl). (A rdlor knife can also be
the baseline, it's easy to dean them up to the edges. used to score lhe baseline into the
so they arc. This i!'; importanl because ORIENTATION. When the panels are panel.) JUSI set the adjustable square to
after the pins arc cut, you'lJ use them to flat and square, the next lhing to do is the thickness of the panel. 't11en care-
layout the posilions of the tails. (L,ying arrange the panels so the project will fully run the square along the end of the
out the tails from the pins is also easier look its best when it's put together. panel while you mark the baseline.
than marking the pins (rom the tails.) Once the panels are oriented, I labd Note: If you're working with small
the outside and inside faces, as well as pieces, the easiest way 10 layout the
the top edges Wig. i). Also, it's a gool! baseline is to use the boards them-
idea 10 label adjoining corners with a selves as a template. Stand up one
Regardless of which panel you stan letter. When you transfer the pins to the board and place it against the end of the
with, your first step is always going to mating tail panels later, Ihese labels can adjoining piece. Then simply trace
be Ihe same: stock preparation. save you a lot of head scratching. around it.
FLAT AND SQUARE PANELS. Whether BASELINE. Finally, J use a combina- Now that the panels are Iflbe1ed and
you're dealing with narrow boards or tion square and a pencil to mark base- the baselines arc drawn, you can begin
widc panels, each piece must be flat and lines around the ends of each panel work on the pins.

NOTE: SET COMBINATION

SQUARE TO THICKNESS OF PANEL

I
~ .~

I
I
I

120 COUNTRY PROJECTS

PINS:ST

When cutting the TRANSFER LAYOVT UNES

LAY OUT NARRQlNEST TO END OF PANEL
pins, there are PART OF PlN ON
three things to do: OUTSIDE FAa
OF PANEL
layout the pins,
make cut.., on each
side of them with
a hand saw, and
remove the waste
between them.
LAY OUT. The
first step is to lay Secure the panel in a vise. Then, layout To layout the pin angle on the end of
out the position of the pins with the narrow part of the the panel, hold a pencil on the mark,
each pin. (On the pin on the outside face of the panel. then bring a bevel gauge up to it.
chest, the pins arc
on the end panels,
B.) I starl with the
outside face ofthc
panelloward me (the face with the nar-
rowest parl of the pins) (Step 1).
Next, the layout can be drawn
around to the inside face. To layout the
angles across the ends, I use a bevel
gauge (Step 2). (Since the chest was "-- WASTE ----.
softwood, I used an angle of 14°. In
hardwood, I'd use an angle 0£9".) Use a square to transfer lines from the Use a fine-tooth saw to cut to the
When the pins are laid out, , always ends down to the baseline. Do this on waste side of aI/lines. Stop when the
mark the waste sections (Step ,'I). This both sides of the panel. Then, before cut- kerf has reached the baseline on both
makes it harder for me to cut Oil the ting, mark the waste sections. sides. Don't cut past the baseline.
wrong side of the line.
CUTTING THE PINS. Kow the pins can
be cut (Step .4). Here, it's important to
keep the saw straight up and down so
the pin ends up square to the baseline.
I keep the outside face of the panel
toward me. This way, I can be extra ~.
careful with the good face. If I'm off the
line a bit on the inside, it won't show.
~"
SCORE ALONG~
~ '" •
BASEUNE ~~.
wITH
REMOVING THE WASTE. When all the CHISEt ....."" "" ,
pins are cut, you can clean out the waste ~ "
between them (Steps 5-7). Now clamp a backing board along the To remove the waste, chop straight
Here, I do two things. To ensure a baseline. This will help keep your chisel down. Then chip in from the end to
clean, straight baseline, I damp a straight up and down. Next, use a sharp remove tiny chips. After removing I/S ' of
backing board to the panel. But this chisel to establish the shoulder. the thickness, start a slight undercut.
board can shift out of position.
Especially when you start pounding on (HISEL IN FROM
END TO REMOVE
the chisel with a mallet. So to prevent
this, r be/{in by removing tiny "bit.es."
0;'"
Another thing r do is undercut the
shoulder (Step (j). That means after . .,----"'t:s
about 1/811 of waste is removed, I'll angle <>
tbe top of the chisel slightly toward me PlNS SHOULD BE
STRAIGHT ANa SQUARE
when chopping out the waste. This way, TO ENDS
it's easier to get a good, h!{hl tiL
When all the waste is removed, you11 /
nccd to spend a little time cleaning up When half the waste is gone, flip the After cleaning up the corners with a
all the corners. And check that each pin panel over and reposition the backer chisel, make sure each pin is straight
is straight and square, making any board. Repeat the procedure to remove and square to the end of the panel. Use a
adjustments if necessary (Step 8). the rest of the waste. chisel to true up any out-of-square pins.

DOVETAIL CHEST 121

TAILS:
After the pins are
TRACE PINS WITH
ClAMP SCRAP SHARP PENCIL complete, it's time
TO PANEL TO OR KNIFE
HELP BALANCE
to work on the
PANEL ON EDGE tails. T mark the
tails directly from
the pins. This way,
they will match
them perfectly.
LAY OUT. To lay
out the tails, first
Layout the tails from the pins. Set the With the panels flush at both ends and set the tail panel
tail panel inside-face up on the bench. the edges, trace the pins onto the tail on the work-
Set the pin panel on top so edges align. panel. Use a sharp pencil. bench, with the
inside face up.
'Inen stand the

~
!;;~;:;:;~~ TOUSETRANSFER BEVEL GAUGE
ANGLE pin panel on lop so
FROM INSIDE FACE
=-- TO OUTSIDE FAC7-""O:::j the panels form a
lJE;2'~.§ corner. The&') two

""- To extend the fines around the panel,
oJ draw parallel lines across the ends. To
do this accurately. position the pencil, gauge to match the angle on the inside slight cupping that may be in the panel.
then slide the try square up to it.
~~
panels should be
nush at the ends and thc edges, with
both inside faces toward each othcr.
(Here's where all that marking at thc
beginning helps.)
Note: To help the pin panel stand
Transfer the angles on the inside face upright, I damp a piece of scrap to it
10 the au/side face. Adjust the bevel (Step 1). This also helps remove any
face. Then draw it on the outside face. Now that the tails are marked on the
inside face, the lines can be transferred
around tJ1C panel to the outside face
(Steps 8- 4). Drawing the straight lines
across the ends of the panel is easy. But
to transfer the angles to the outside

~-"rBASEUNE --
,
SAVE - •
PENCILUNES
/
I , J0
~ X
~ ~
'
CLEAN UP SAW
CUT WITH OlISEL
facc, you'llnced to usc the bevel gauge.
To be safe, I don't just draw the same
angle
check
I used to draw the pins. Instead, J
each angle on the insirle face,
adjust the bevel gauge if neccssary, and
then transfer this angle to the outside
To form the sides of the rails, hold the Remove waste at the top and bottom face. 'Inen mark the waste areas.
5 saw at an angle and begin cutting, with a saw, cutting from the edges CUTTING THE TAilS. When cutting
staying on the waste side of the line. Stop toward the first tail. Then clean up the the tails, the saw isn't straight up and
when the kerf reaches the baseline. cuts with a chisel. down - it's angled (Step !;). This
means starling the cut is a little trickier.
The saw may tend to skate across the
end, so 1 start more toward lllC waste
side of the line. This leaves more clean-
I. up, but the dovetails fit together betler.
/
REMOVING THE WASTE. With all the
BACKING
kerfs cut, it's time to remove the waste.
BOARD But this timC', usc the saw to remove
the waste sections [or the pins at the top
and bottom of the panel (Step 6). 'Inen
dean up the shoulders wit.h a chisel.
7 Use a chisel to remove the waste Remove half the thickness of the Nowyou can clean out the rest of the
between the tilils. As with the pins, waste from one side of the panel. waste between the tails using the same
clamp a backing board to the panel and Then flip the panel over and repeat the procedure used lO dean between the
score the shoulder. process. Finally, test fit the joint. pins (Steps 7-8).

122 COUNTRY PROJECTS

Before Ihc joint can be fully as:>embled,
you'lllikcly have to do some fitting.
FITTING. To get the joint 10 fit, you'll
probably need to remove a little mate-
rial from either the lails or the pins. To
sec jusl where to remove this material,
dry-assemble the joint as much as pos-
sible (see photo at right).
But don't force it. If you do, the pins
at the top and boUom can split from the
pressure. The goal is a final fit that can
be dry-assembled with a few light taps.
With the joint dry-assembled as
much as possible, you should be able to
see where the joint is binding. And
when you pull the joint apart, the tight
spolS will also be burnished slightly. To
make these areas easier to see, I like to
mark them with a pencil.
CHISEL. To remove a lot of waste, you
can pare it away with a chisel (Fig. 1).
This removes the wood quickly, but it's
also easy to remove too much material.
SANDING STICK. So I often use a lillie
sanding slick (Fig. 2). I make one from
a thin piece of scrap with some adhe-
sive-backed sandpaperatlachcd.l bevel
the edges to match the angle oilhe tails
so I can sand right into the corner.
ASSEMBLY. -When all the joints fit, the
case is rearly to be assembled (Fig. 8). I
use white glue when assembling a large
case. It has a longer setup time than
yellow glue, which helps with all the
small faces that need to bc glued.
1usually apply glue just to the sides
of tJle pins and !..,i1s. I don'l bother
gluing the baseline since it's end grain.
Clamping up dovetails usually takes
a little preparation. To pull the joint
tight, you only want to apply pressure to
the tails (not the pins). You'll need a can distribute the damping pressure
good number of clamps ready to go. evenly across the joint with a special
If you don't have many damps, you clamping block (J!'iy. 8).

NOTE: SCRAP PIECE WITH

ADHESIVE-BACKED
SAND"APER ON BOTTOM
SIDE ONLY
APPLY PRESSURE . . -111/- '''"-
TO TAIL
PANEL ONLY NOTCHED CLAMPING
"VEe BLOCK DiSTRIBUTES
EDGES TO
FrTINTO
CORNERS \. ,
PRESSURE EVENLY

/
------j
)~~;;,;~""j
-~

USE SHMP
CHISel TO ./
CAREFUiLY PARE --
AWAY MATERIAl.

Even after the joint fits together, there
may still be some work to do.
PROTRUDING TAILS AND PINS. One
common problem is when either the
mils or pins stick ouL But this is easily
corrected with a little sanding or
routing. Heier to page 117 for some
ways to do this.
GAPS BETWEEN DOVETAILS. Gaps
between a tail and it pin can be fixed
with your hand saw and a spline.
The idea is to cut an even kerf
Ihrough the gap (Fiy. I). Then glue a
spline in the kerf to upalch~ it (Pig. la).
GAPS AT BASELINE. You may find a
gap along the baseline of the tails. Here
the Cllt was too deep. The solution is to
t1scwcdRCS to fill the gaps Wi!!. 2).

RRSr. TO EVEN GAP,

a.
CVT KERF TO FILL BASELINE
GAP, GLUE IN --_
WEDGES AND
TRIM FLUSH

SE~:GLUESPlJNE
IN KERF AND TRIM FLUSH

DOVETAIL CHEST 123

By using frame andpanel construction for the sides, the chest takes on a more formal appearance.
To complement this classic look, choose a hardwoodsuch as oak, cherry, ash or walnut.

c
Start by cutting all the rails and stiles
(M, N, 0, P, Q, R, S) to finished width
and length (Fig. 1).
To accept the panels added later. cut
1/~II-wide grooves 112'1 deep centered Oil
the thickness of each piece (Fig. 1).
Also cut grooves on b()lh edges of the
front/back short stiles (N).
CUL Ih"-Iong tenons Oil the ends of the
f'Iils (0, I~ I{, S) to lit the grooves in the
stiles Wig. 1). Also cut a tenon on each
end of the front/back short stiles (N).
Use a dado blade in the table saw to
cut a rabbet along onc edge of each
front/back long stile (M). This rabbet
should be :IN' deep and fit the thickness
of the end stiles (Q) (Figs. 1 and .':1).
Now dry-assemble each set of raih>
and stiles, and measure for the six
panels. (Make sure the short stiles arc
centered in the front/back assemblies.)
Measure each opening, inside edge to
inside edge, and add %11 to each dimen-
sion. The assemblies for opposite sirles
should be the same width and length.
Glue up six IN'-thick blanks for the fidore gluing the chest together, two
panels (T U). Cut them to finished size sets of grooves need to be cut. first. cut
after the glue dries. grooves on the inside faces of all four
To form the raised center on each assemblies to fit the thickness of the
panel, first fasten a tall auxiliary fence lo boltom panel (C) (Fig. 4). The boltom
the lable saw nIl fence. Raise the blade
I%11 and tilt it 8". Then position the rip MATERIALS UST
fence:\/16'1 from the blade with the blade
tilted away from the fence. CHANGED PARTS
Cut bevels on all four edges of alI six D Tray Supports (2) %x%-34:1;
panels (Fig. I). Cut the ends first. then K TrClY Ends (2) 14 x 31/l- 13lfz
the edges to clean up any tearout. l Tray Bottom (1) 'hx12%-23%
NEW PARTS
Safet.y Note: Use a zero clearance M Fr,lBk, Long Stiles (4) 314 x 2 • 1S I!]
insert to help prevent the panel from tip- N Fr.lBk. Short Stiles (2)-% x 2 - 11
ping into the opening around the blade. o FUEk. Top Rails (2) 314 x 2314 - 33
Use a beveled sanding block to P Fr./Ek. Etm, Rails (2) %x 5~!4 - 33
remove blalle marks and square up the Q End Stiles (4) % x 1"Is - 18'12
R EndTopRail,(2) %x2%-13
shoulders of the raised panels.
SEnd Blm. Rails (2) y",x 5'14 - 13
Apply a finish before gluing the frame T fr./Bk. Panels (4) 11) x 10314 - 1S3r..
and panel assemblies together. Refer to U End Panels (2) ,/;. x 103/~ - 12%
the photo on page 113. V Tray Runners (2) 'fax '12 - 24
Now you can glue and clamp together Note: Do not need piJrts A, B.
the frame and panel assemblies. Do not HARDWARE SUPPLIES
(8) #8 x %" rh woodscre'NS
use glue on the panels. Check that each
assembly is fiat and square.

"~--13 ~

~ r 12 ~ I'" y,

,
'"t
;U====®===~
---r-,,,,---j!~ I I
,
"" i I
10% ®
T
11 ®J'I O
I W
CHAMFER
I
II·'
""
I ~ 1-' lL--======~ I
, ~h ..

, S% NOn: ALL FRAME PIECES ARE:v." THICK ®

ALL PANELS ARE: Y.I" THICK
L~ ~ I
'@

FRAME & PANEL

(CROSS SECT10N) NOTE: ALL GROOVES fOR PANELS
AREY4-WlDE:o:.Y;r" DEEP
CENTERED ON THICKNESS OF STOCK
--
_...-~ - )0;-

@
1,~

124 COUNTRY PROJECTS

edge of each groove is 2 1/4" from the
oollom edge of each assembly.
~ow cut %"-wide grooves %" deep
for the tray supports toward the top of
the fronl/back assemblies ouly Wig.'S. 4
alld 6). The top edges of these &l'fOOVCS
are 1%" from the top edges of the
fronl/back assemblies.
Next, dry-assemble the case and mea-
sure for the bottom panel. To do this,
measure the opening, including the
depth of the bottom grooves.lllen sub-
tract lfgT' from the width only to allow
for expansion. Glue up a panel and cut it
to these dimensions.
To keep the corners aligned during
glue up, two screws arc drivcn at each
corner (Fig. 3). With the case dry-
assembled, drill a pilot hole and a shank
hole %" from the top and bollom edj:!e
on each front/back assembly. (These
will be covered by trim later.) Drive
screws in to pre-thread the holes, then
remove them. FRAME AND PANEL
-
Now it's time to assemble the case
with the four sides and bottom !)ancl.
Apply glue to eHch joint (but not to the
bottom panel) and assemble the case
wilh the screws. Use clamps as well. Glue them in place (Pig. 6). hold tray runners (Fig. 5). These
Rout a %11 stopped chamfer on the The tray is built the same as for the R"rooves are 3tH" wide and IN' deep.
outside corner of each fronl/back long dovetail chest, except the tray ends (K) Cut tray rUllners (V) to fit the grooves
stile (M) Wig. 1). are lB 1h tl long (Fig. 5). Refer to page and glue them in place Wig. fj).
Cut tray supports (D) to fit into the 119 for details on building the tray. To complete the chest, make and
grooves in the front and back assem- After the tray is assembled, cut mount the trim and the lid the same as
blies and bet\veen the end assemblies. grooves on the front and back mto for the dovetail chest.

NOTE: CUT TRAY SUPf'ORT GROOVES

CUTW·W1DE GROOVE
IN FRONT AND BACK ASSEM8UES ONLY lh," DEEP

I
NOTE: DO NOT GLUE
©
/
PANELS TO STILES
OR RAILS
© ,"
" ®
CUT TRAY END
13YlLONG
I
i
", .
® .\ ~
TI<AY Q)
FRONTIBACK J

NOTE: DRILL SHANK AND PILOT

HOLES W FROI\I1 TOP AND BonOM
EDGES TO HELP SECURE CASE
DURING GLUE UP
oJ NOTE: LID AND TRIM ARE BUILT
THE SAME AS FOR DOVETAIL CHEST
~"~
WxlA" r , I
,",• \.
RABBET
.
"- I J ~

,i t
~
(
\i / I TI<AY
"-..R.UNNER

"@. I
L
<0
)
118 x ¥."
Fh WOODSCREW
NOTE: CUT 1l."·DEEP
GROOVES FOR BonoM PANEL
,",Y
SUPPORTS
TI<AY
BonOM
(b)--
c/
IN ALL FOUR ASSEMBLIES (Wx·1II"x34'h.1
I

DOVETAil CHEST 125

SOURC
-'----
One of the first things we take into COIl-
sideration when designing projects at
Woodsmith is whether the hardware is
commonly available. Most of lhe hard-
ware and supplies for the projects inlhis
book can be round at local hardware
stores or home centers. Sometimes.
though, you may have to order the hard-
wa]"e through the maiL U that's the case,
we've tried to find reputable national mail
order sources with toll-free pholle num-
bers (see box at right),
In addition, Woodsmilh Project
Supplies offers hardware for some of the
project.s in this book (see below),
Al the time of printing, U1e (allow-
ing project supply kits were avail-
able from lVoodxmilh Projed
SuppliRAI.l11C kits include the items
listed. but you must supply any lum-
ber, plywood, or finish. For current
prices and availability, call loll free:
1-800-444-7527
Hall Tree
(pages 48-53) No. 8005-144
This kit provides full-size patterns
for the hooks and feet.
Mission Bookcase
(paRes 72-87) No.790-200
Includes the hinges, ball catches,
screws, shelf supports and brads.
Coat and Glove Rack
(pages 90-95) No. 78G·l 00
Includes full-size patterns for the
back and sides, oak plugs, coat
pegs, door knob, butt hinges and
magnetic door catch.
Jelly Cupboard
(pages l06-113)
Hardware Kit... No. 787-100
Screws, hinges, dowels for thc
pins and wooden door knob.
Tin Panel Kit... No. 787-110
Four blank tin panels ready lo be
punched with your choice of pal-
tcrns (see page 107), plus instruc-
tions on pUllching and aging tin.
KEY: Tl04
126 SOURCES
Some of the most important Utools"
you can have in your shop are mail
order catalogs. The ones listed below
arc fined with special hardware, tools,
linishes.lumber, and supplies that can't
be found at a local hardware store or
home center. You should be able to
find many of the supplies for the pro-
jects in this book in one or more of
these catalogs.
H's amazing what you can learn
-----
2625 Beaver Avenue
Des Moines, IA 50310
800-835-5084
Our own retail store filled with lools,
jigs, hardware, books, and finishing
supplies. 'lllOugh we don'L have a cat-
alog, we do send out items mail order.
Call for information.
560 Airport Industrial Park
P.O. Box 1686
Parkersburg, WV 26102-1686
800-225-1153
www.woodcraft.com
Has all kinds of hardware induding
hinges. coat pegs, knobs and lid sup-
purLs. They also carry a good selcc-
tion of hand tools and accessories.
4365 Willow Drive
Medina, MN 55340
800-279-4441
www.roc:kler.com
A great catalog of general hardware,
specialty hardware, plus tool and
shop accessories. It's also a good
~idea-start.er" for projects.
1108 North Glenn Road
Casper, WY 82601
800-645-9292
Z-shaped faslenc~, power tools and
accessories, hardware, shellac, milk
paint and oLher finishing supplies,
wood plug'S and more.
about woodworking by looking
through these call110gs. If they're not
currently in your shop, you may want
to have Lhem sent to you.
Note: TIle information below was
current when this book was pr;nled.
Time-Ijfe Books and August Home
Publishing do not guarantee these
product" will be available nor ('..n dorse
any s{X:cillc mail orner company, cat-
alog, or producL
2050 Eastchester Road
Bronx, NY 10461
800-223-8087
www.constantines.com
One of the original woodworking
mail order catalogs. Find cotton
Shaker tape, hinges, tin panels, milk
paint and other finishin~ sllpplies.
135 American Legion Highway
Revere, MA 02151
800-767-9999
www.trend-lines.com
Another cOTTlplete source for hinges,
pegs, dowels, hardware, power tools
and accessories.
P.O. Box 70
Mound, MN 55364
800-441-9870
Inlhis plan-Iilled catalog, you'll also
find pegs, lid supports, hinges, plus
blank and pre-punched tin panels.
P.O. Box 437
Montoursville, PA 17754
717-478-4127
A complete catalog of tin-punchillK
sUJ)plies with pre-pWlched tin, punch-
ing tools, tin blanks and designs.
P.O. Box 111
Wareham, MA 02571
800-842-0560
Over 175 years old and still making
square nails the old-fashioned way.
 INDEX

Jig:; Shellac, 119

Bookcase Bevel,61 Shelves, SR, 60, 67, 83, 92-93, ] 09
\lissioll,72-87 Chisel guide, 57 Shop Tips
Open, 87 Flush trim, 117 Adding decorative pegs, 79
Chair Taperin,l{, 22-23, 56, 61 CIampinI{ with wedl{cs, 109
Rocking-, 2642 Joinery OrawinR an are, 65
Chest End lap, 111 Filling gaps, 9
Dovetail, 114-12:1 HalI-lap;;, 51 Frame a~&:mbly, 75
Frame and panel, 124-125 Hand-cut dovetails, 10, 12()-123 Hanging system, 94
Coal and Glove Rack, 90-95 Locked rabbeL, 20 \1ortiscs with ajig saw, 100
CottOIl Shaker tape, 38-41 :Miter with spline, 68-69 Routing C'tlstolll"f1t darloes, 108
Cutout patterns Mortise and tenon, 17, 57-58, 70, 76 Sanding flush, 117
Diamond,99 Pegged mortise and tenon, 79 Scraping and sanding corners, 78
Heart, 12,99 Tenons on dowels, 31 Shaping leg bot1.oms, 30
Through mortise and tenon, 84-86, ShoV-built door pulls, 83
99..100 Spacing slats, 98
1)oors, 81-82, 95, 111-112 Special sanding block, 50
Panels, 112, In Tight-fit shoulders, 17
Shop--buill pulls, 83 Lamp Table, 21 Sources, 126
Dovetail Chest, 111-125 Milk paint, 95,104-105 Step Stool, &-13
Dovetails Mission Bookcase, 72-R7 Country version, 12-13
CuUing, 121}-123 Mortises, 16, 57, 70 Stools
Fitting, 12;) lllrough mortise and Lenon, 84-86, Country Step Stool, 12-1;\
TroubleshootinJ!. 12:~ 99-100 Shaker-Style Footstool. 4:l-45
Dowels Oak Sofa Table, :l4-6l Shaker SLep Stool, 8-13
Making, 37 Storage
Notching, 35 Coat and Glove Rack, 90-95
Pim" 110, 111 Patterns Dovetail Chest, 114-125
Tenons, 31 Bench apron, 99 Hall Table, 14-25
Finishes Bench back. 99 High-Back Bench, 102-103
1\l,ring, !J5, 105 Bench side, 100 Jelly Cupboard, 106-113
Danish oil, 9 Clothes hooks, 49 Mission Bookcase, 72-87
Milk paint, 104-105 Coat lind Glove Hack back, 94 Tray, 119
Shellac, 119 Coat and Glove Rack sides, 92 Square-cut nails, 109
Waxing, 7'2 Diamond cutout, 99
Footstool, Shaker-Style, 43-45 Foot, Hall CloLhes Tree, 49
Frame and panel, 75, 124-125 Hcartcutoul, 12,99 Tables
Frame and Panel Chest, 124-125 Punched tin panels, 107 Coffee
Glass Hockers,36 Glass-Top, 62-71
Beveled,68 Rocker arms, 34 Solid Wood Top, 71
Doors, 82 Sources, 126 Hall, [4-25
Glass-Top Coffee Table. 62-71 Weaving, 42 Lamp, 21
Pegs SoIa, 51-61
Decorative, 79 Tapering legs
Hall Clothes Tree, 48-53 Shaker, 94 Jigs, 22-23, 5f), &t
Hardware Square, 92 On a jointer, 21-25
Chain, 119 Punched tin panels, 107,112 Tin panels, 112
Door catches, 82, 112 Sources, 126 Patterns, 107
Hinges. 82, 95, 1m, 112, 118 ({aised panels, 113, 124-125
Shelf pins, &1 [{ocking Chair, 26-42
Sources, 126 \Veaving,38-12
Square-nltnail:o;,I09
Tin panels, 112 Shaker Hall Table, 14·25
Z-shaped fa:;leners, 55, 60 Shaker Step Stool, 8-13
High-Back Bench, 9('J--] 05 Shaker cotton tape, 38-41
.Jelly Cupboard, 106--113 Shaker-Style Footstool, 43

INDEX 127
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