Quartiere Coppedè – the hidden gem of Rome

This was one of my absolute favorite experiences in Rome –

walking down the regular busy street, turn around the corner,
and… WOW! There it was – Rome’s smallest district –
Quartiere Coppedè.

Quartiere Coppedè is a fairy-tale-like neighborhood in Rome

and is different from anything else I have ever seen. The best
place to start exploring is by entering Quartiere Coppedè at the
corner of Via Dora and Via Tagliamento.

Coppede district is one of the hidden gems of Rome

Quartiere Coppede

Basilica di Santo Stefano Rotondo al Celio

Via Santo Stefano Rotondo, 7

There are more than 900 churches in Rome,

one more impressive than another and it
would be impossible and somewhat
pretentious to just pick one favorite. Santo
Stefano Rotondo made it to my list of the
hidden gems of Rome because it’s so very
different from the other churches we visited in
Rome.

Basilica of Santo Stefano Rotondo is the

oldest example of a centrally planned church
in Rome. The church was built in the 5th
century and is famous for its 16-century graphic frescoes, portraying many scenes of martyrdom. This
church has impressed me by the unusual circular architecture, somber interior, and its truly authentic feel.

There is plenty of history and very old buildings in Rome, but only a few places make you feel like you
traveled back in time. Santo Stefano Rotondo is one of them!
 Basilica of Santo Stefano Rotondo is located on Via
di Santo Stefano Rotondo 7 (side street of Via
Claudia), just 10-15 minute walk from the
Colosseum.

This small church is a real secret gem of Rome,

literally hidden. If you don’t know it’s there, it is
quite easy to miss.

Basilica of Santo Stefano Rotondo is open to the

public from 10 AM to 1 PM and from 2 PM to 5 PM
(October to March) and from 3 PM to 6 PM during
the summer months.

Santo Stefano Rotondo is literally hidden

Trastevere – pleasant atmosphere and some of the best food in Rome

Trastevere, just across the Tiber river from the city center,
is probably the most charming district in Rome. Out of all
the places on this list, Trastevere is probably the most
popular one with the tourists. However, most travelers
seem to limit their visit to Piazza di Santa Maria in
Trastevere and a few streets around it.

The moment you leave the busy square next to the church,
the number of tourists decreases dramatically. Just two-
three blocks further and you are left to explore the
charming old neighborhood all on your own. There is also
an outdoor food market on Piazza di San Cosimato and, together with a couple of restaurants and a
playground, it’s a part of the city that gives you a truly local feel.

TIP: Book a Trastevere tour with a local and don’t miss any of the hidden gems of this authentic piece of
Rome.

Charming district of Trastevere

TIP: If you can, plan to have lunch or dinner in Trastevere as there are so many good local restaurants in
the area. Try to avoid places with pictures on the menu and look for the ones where locals eat.

For an even more authentic experience, join this highly-rated Trastevere food tour with a local.

Traditional pastry for sale at Pasticceria Valzani in Trastevere

If you are interested, you can find some authentic food stores like Antica
Caciara selling some of the best cheeses in Rome or Pasticceria Valzani
selling traditional pastries.

There are more of these really old shops in Trastevere and while they may
look charming to one, somebody else may find that they bear lots of resemblance to the old food stores in the
communist countries three-four decades back in time… I find that small neighborhood stores are well worth
paying a visit in order to get a more authentic feel for the place. It’s better than the souvenir stands anyway.
 Another great way to discover the local side of Rome and the food of
Trastevere is by doing a self-guided food tour of Trastevere. It brings you
to some secret places you wouldn’t easily find on your own, while at the
same time allowing you to explore it all at your own pace.

Traditional Italian cheese for sale at Antica Caciara in Trastevere

Gianicolo – Janiculum Hill – great views over the city of Rome

Gianicolo or the Janiculum Hill, also called

the 8th Hill of Rome, is another beautiful area
that is overlooked by most travel guides.

Gianicolo is located South of Vatican City, just

above Trastevere, and can be easily reached on
foot. It’s a bit of a climb though, but the views
over the city of Rome are certainly worth it.
The main attraction is the cannon at Piazzale
Garibaldi that fires each day at noon. Make
sure not to miss the 17th-century Aqua Paola
fountain (Fontana dell’Acqua Paola) as well.
Gianicolo is an amazingly quiet area and a
good way to escape the city and get off the
beaten path.

TIP: One of the best ways to explore Gianicolo

and some of the other further located areas is
by taking a bike. You can rent a bike, join
a highly-rated electric bike small-group tour,
or even spend the whole day exploring Rome
by bike (lunch, wine, and even gelato
included!).

Aqua Paola Fountain

Villa Borghese – the largest public park of Rome

Piazzale Napoleone I

Villa Borghese is the largest park in Rome and it’s a great

refuge from the hectic noisy streets of the city. The park is
huge and you would probably need a day to see most of
what it has to offer, but it’s a nice place to escape the city,
even if just for a few hours.

The park is known as the ‘park of museums’, the most

famous one being the Galleria Borghese which is located
in the Villa Borghese after which the park is named. But
there is more to the park: the lake and many fountains, the
old fashioned puppet theatre, a small zoo, the beautiful gardens,…
TIP: If you want to visit the Borghese Gallery, you have to book the tickets in advance.

Galleria Borghese

Piazzale Scipione Borghese, 5

Villa Borghese park is located to the North of the Spanish

Steps and Piazza del Popolo and is a bit outside of the
regular tourists’ routes and even outside some of the city
maps, but it’s not really that far. You can easily walk
there from the city center.

The best way to explore the park seems to be by bike and

there are several places where you can rent one. There is
also a small tourist train driving around the park. If you are visiting Rome with a family, you could rent one
of the 4-6 seater bikes to explore the park.

I really enjoyed this oasis of green and quiet in the middle of the noisy city. It is the perfect place to escape
the heat in summer, to have a picnic, let your kids play, or just relax.

TIP: If you find the walk too long, join an organized Villa Borghese segway tour.

Villa Borghese gardens

So, these are a few hidden gems of Rome that I think

are really worth your time. If you are looking for more
hidden gems of Rome or want to explore the more local
side of the city, but aren’t sure where to start, I
recommend you look into booking one or several tours
that bring you to the lesser known places of Rome.

Here are some highly-rated local tours that I selected

especially for our readers. These are one by one tours
that will show you a different side of Rome, far away
from the beaten tourist paths. Take a look:

Cat Sanctuary
Did you know that Rome is home to more than 300,000 cats, most of
whom live outdoors? Over the last twenty years many of these strays
have taken refuge in the Torre Argentina excavation site, being fed by
local residents in the area. A cat shelter opened there in the early
1990s housing more than 400 cats, pampered daily by volunteers. The
Roman Cat Sanctuary, Largo di Torre Argentina. Open daily
from noon until 18:00.
Keyhole

Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta, 3

There is a large door in the Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta on the

Aventine Hill. If you look through the keyhole there is a surprise! It’s
one of the least secret of Rome’s unusual spots since you’ll have to
get in the queue to enjoy the view… Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta
on the Aventine Hill.

Keyhole on Aventine Hill

If you peer through the keyhole on Aventine Hill, you’ll be greeted with a fabulous view: the dome of St.
Peter’s Basilica, framed by garden hedges.

It’s a lovely spot… that we totally missed on account of (apparently) skimping on research. When I had seen
the many photos of this spot in the past, I mistakenly assumed that the “keyhole” in the name was merely
referring to the small break in the hedges that framed St. Peter’s–but no, you do indeed peer through a literal
keyhole to see it.

Don’t make our mistake and end up walking right by without checking it out!

San Lorenzo

This is THE alternative neighbourhood of Rome for everything

cultural and hip. Cheap bars thronged with foreign and Italian students
in the afternoon, pop-up sidewalk cafes and festino – street parties. It’s
where the artsy types and intellectuals feel most at home, opposite the
Campo dei Fiori. You might say it’s Rome’s Dalston. Enjoy Peroni for
no more than a Euro. San Lorenzo District, around the piazza
Tiburtini, south of Termini Station.

EUR

10,000 people live in the Esposizione Universale di Roma

district, located on the outskirts of the city. The EUR was built in
the 1930s at the height of fascism. Now it’s an architectural
curiosity featuring a mixture of ancient Rome (a pillar of fascist
ideology) and modernist lines. The most representative is the
Square Coliseum, a cube with 216 arches. EUR, metro line B,
station EUR (one station before Laurentina).
Centrale Montemartini

Via Ostiense, 106

This impressive architectural museum was built in a former
power plant in Ostiense. It is the newest addition to the Capitole
Museums. Imagine ancient statues displayed in an industrial
backdrop – not unlike the Tate Modern, but with all the
machinery still there. Centrale Montemartini, Via Ostiense
106, open Tuesday to Sunday from 9:00 until 19:00.

Church of St. Ignatius Loyola

This baroque church was the second Jesuit church built in

Rome. It’s frescos and trompe l’oeil paintings by Andrea
Pozzo in 1685 alone are reason not to miss this. The
ceilings give the impression that they’re vaulted, though
they aren’t – the churchyard neighbours didn’t want shade
in their garden at the time when the church was built.
Church of St. Ignatius Loyola, Via del Caravita 8.

Porta Portese Market

This Roman flea market is definitely worthwhile on a sunny

day. It’s open Sunday from the early morning until the
afternoon. Sort through trinkets, watches, pottery, bicycles,
kitchen gadgets, Olivetti typewriters, books and jewellery…
Watching the locals scouring for a good deal is also quite
entertaining! Porta Portese Market on Via Poruense. Every
Sunday morning.

Villa Doria Pamphili

Rome’s largest part (180 hectare), located atop Gianicolo Hill,

is curiously neglected by tour groups. Its beautiful French-style
gardens and huge villa are popular with Romans for late
afternoon walks. It’s a great alternative if you’ve already
visited the Villa Borghese gardens. Admire the fountains
carved into the faces of the theatre statues. Villa Doria
Pamphili, entrance at Via Aurelia Antica, west of
Trastevere.
Appia Antica

Officially this is the first paved road in history, dubbed the

“Queen of Roads”. Construction began in 312 BC and
connected Rome to Brindisi. 513 km in length, it passes
beautiful villas and ancient ruins. If you don’t have enough
time to follow its length in entirety, admire part of it in
Rome. The road starts at the Baths of Caracalla.

Find flights to Rome with one click on liligo.com. Several

low-cost airlines fly to Rome from airports all over the UK,
including London, Bristol, Edinburgh, Manchester and
Glasgow.

Galleria Sciarra

You don’t have to go far off the beaten path in Rome

to appreciate the Galleria Sciarra–it’s hidden in plain
sight, just a couple minutes away from the stunning-
but-crowded Trevi Fountain.

Step inside the fairly unremarkable looking (at least

for Rome, that is) facade and you’ll find an absolute
treat in the courtyard: enormous Art Nouveau frescoes
painted by Giuseppe Cellini in the late 19th century.

The frescoes have a very specific theme: women, or

more specifically various female virtues.

Today, the building is used as an office building–what a cool view for the people with interior windows,
right?–but the courtyard is open to the public during business hours and you can walk right in.

Basilica di San Clemente

Nowhere sums up just how many layers there are to Rome quite like the Basilica di San Clemente, where
you can admire them literally!

Not only can you step inside the lovely current basilica, you can also visit the fourth-century church that
today’s basilica was built directly on top of… and some of the ruins of the Roman home that the fourth-
century church was built on top of!

At less than a 10-minute walk from the Colosseum, the Basilica di San Clemente is an easy way to get off
the beaten path in Rome, even if you’re short on time.
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj is definitely near the top of our personal list of the
best hidden gems in Rome–and like the Galleria Sciarra, it’s hidden in
plain sight!

Set just steps away from the famous Piazza Venezia sits this palace, whose
exterior–while impressive–fades into the scenery among all the beautiful
buildings in Rome.

Once you’re inside, however, the palace is absolutely dazzling. Whether

you want to tour the impressive art gallery (the collection is impressive,
and so uncrowded as compared to the more popular art museums in
Rome), the family’s impressive apartments, or both, definitely consider
adding the Palazzo Doria Pamphilj to your list of reasons to get off the
beaten path in Rome.

Capuchin Crypt
The Capuchin Crypt is truly one of the most unique, unforgettable sites in Rome–and as one of the least-
toured crypts (technically, it’s an ossuary) in the city, it is the very definition of exploring Rome off the
beaten path.

However, fair warning–it’s not for everyone.

In the 17th century, the Capuchin Crypt was slowly built with the skeletons of the friars that died at this
monastery.

Skeletons are arranged as works of art in several small chapels here, including everything from altars made
of human bones, to chandeliers made with human bones, to full skeletons in the robes of a monk resting on a
bed of bones (noticing a theme here?).

The chapels bear unsettling messages like: “As you are, we once were. As we are, soon you will be.”

Clearly, not a place for small children or those not comfortable around the dead–but the level of detail of
the… art (for lack of a better word) is a sight to behold.

Domus Aurea

Want to feel like an explorer during your quest for hidden gems in Rome? Check out a historical site that
requires a hard hat!

Visiting Domus Aurea, a former palace of Emperor Nero, gives you a chance to visit a working
archaeological site while in Rome. Here, you can step into a fascinating piece of Ancient Rome that hasn’t
quite been cleaned up and optimized for tourism yet.

Because of the unique nature of visiting Domus Aurea, you need to plan ahead to visit: the site is only open
on the weekends, and booking your tickets in advance is essential..

Santo Stefano Rotondo

 When you approach Santo Stefano Rotondo, you may first wonder
if you’re in the right place: off a quiet road, behind a wall, and
then behind a garden, sits one of the most unique churches of
Rome–specifically, the National Church on Hungary in Rome.

The church itself is round, and in addition to its unusual shape, it

is known for its rather intense frescoes of Christian martyrs being
tortured–definitely not one for those with a weak stomach.

The Keats – Shelley Memorial House

Literally steps away from the Spanish Steps (see what I did there?)
sits the Keats – Shelley Memorial House, a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it
small museum to the British romantic poets.

Keats briefly lived in the apartment the museum was housed in

before dying of tuberculosis (you’ll find the cemetery where he’s
buried, the Non-Catholic Cemetery in Testaccio, located further
down this list of hidden gems in Rome), and today it stands as a
memorial to both him and the Romantic poets as a whole.

The library in the museum is absolutely beautiful, as are the views of the Piazza di Spagna and Spanish
Steps from the windows.

Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls

If you’re interested in Catholic history, the Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls is an unmissable stop in
Rome. This is the site where St. Paul was once executed. After the execution, the location became a shrine,
and then later a beautiful church was built in its place.

The Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls (also known as St. Pauls’ Outside the Walls) is one of the four
major, ancient basilicas in Rome, but due to its slightly out-of-the-way location in Ostiense, does not get
nearly as many visitors, as, say, the popular St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City.

Villa Farnesina
Located close to the Tiber between Vatican City and
Trastevere, the Villa Farnesina is one of those places that you
step inside and immediately wonder how on Earth there aren’t
more people there. Not only is it beautiful, it’s home to some
incredible frescoes by Raphael!

Yep–the same Raphael who’s work people (including us)

cram together to glimpse in the Vatican painted some
absolutely stunning frescoes in this quiet mansion–and the rest
of the home is quite gorgeous, too!
Largo di Torre Argentina
This set of ruins is home to two memorable things that are wildly
different from each other: the spot where Julius Caesar was
assassinated, and a cat sanctuary.

The ruins are open-air, laid out in the center of the square, and are made
up of the remains of various temples as well as part of Pompey’s Curia
(the Roman Senate) where Julius Caesar was stabbed nearly 2,000 years
ago.

And as bonus point of interest, the archaeological site also acts as a cat sanctuary!

There’s an organization onsite that works to feed and care for them, and I can only imagine that they have a
delightful life living in what is essentially the world’s most elaborate set of cat trees.

Tiber Island
As the only island in the part of the Tiber River that flows
through Rome, it makes sense that this tiny island has a long and
storied history.

Set between Trastevere on one side and the Jewish Quarter on

the other, Tiber Island has long been considered a place of
healing, and there’s an active hospital on the island to this day.

As the legend goes, Ancient Rome was once hit by a plague,

and send a delegation to Greece to fetch a sacred snake to honor Asclepius, the god of medicine.

When the delegation returned, their boat sank by hitting Tiber Island, and the snake escaped by curling
around a tree branch–which is where we get the common symbol of a snake wrapped around a stick that still
symbolizes medicine today.

Clearly, the historical accuracy of that story is very much up for grabs, but Tiber Island’s history of being a
place of healing is certainly true!

In addition to being historically relevant, Tiber Island is also a peaceful, fun place to visit, home to great
views of the river, and is easily accessible due to its location between two popular areas of Rome.

Portico of Octavia

Rome is so full of ruins that it’s not unheard of to simply

stumble across them on your way to visiting something
else, which is exactly how we ended up admiring the
Portico of Octavia!

Built in Ancient Rome as the site of two temples and a

library, the Portico of Octavia is a fantastic example of
how Rome continues to grow over and through itself:
now located in the Jewish Ghetto, the site acted as a fish
market from the Middle Ages all the way up to the 19th
century.
Today, it is a tourist attraction, and an easy place to visit if you’re already checking our nearby Teatro
Marcello or Tiber Island.

Janiculum Terrace

Just a short (and steep) walk away from popular Trastevere sits
Janiculum Terrace, home to one of the best views of Rome.

From here, you can see an enormous portion of the city, including
the Colosseum (you do have to look closely to spot it), the Altar of
the Fatherland, and an incredible view of St. Peter’s Basilica.

Plus–a climb up the Janiculum Hill is the perfect way to burn off
the gluttonous meal you almost certainly ate in Trastevere before
heading up, right?

Orto Botanico
Exotic flowers, greenhouses, Japanese gardens, and even a couple of waterfalls–there are oodles of treasures
waiting behind the gates of Rome’s botanical garden.

Located in Trastevere and home to more than 3,000 species of plants, the botanical gardens are surprisingly
quiet considering their beauty–and an easy way to enjoy cultivated gardens in Rome while avoiding the
crowds at the also beautiful, but far more popular, Villa Borghese.

Pyramid of Caius Cestius

Did you know Rome is home to its very own 2,000-year-old
pyramid?

Like the Egyptian pyramids, this one was also built as a tomb–
fitting, as today it borders the Non-Catholic Cemetery.

The Pyramid of Caius Cestius is the very definition of unexpected,

and absolutely belongs on any list of hidden gems in Rome (though
to be fair, it’s a bit arguable how hidden it is, given that you find it
by hopping off the metro at the Piramide stop!).

Villa Doria Pampili

Not to be confused with the Palazzao Doria Pamphilj discussed above (though yes, both properties do come
from the same family), this 17th-century villa is home to the largest landscaped park in Rome.

Located in Monteverde, the Villa Doria Pampili is the perfect escape if you’re looking for a quiet place to
meander after paying a visit to nearby Trastevere.

Orange Garden
 Manicured orange trees, a beautiful shady setting, and stunning
views of Rome–what more could you ask for in one of Rome’s
hidden gems?

Also known as Savelli’s Park and located on Aventine Hill, the

Orange Garden is the perfect place to relax after exploring the
highlights of Testaccio.

Rose Garden

Located near the Orange Garden, if you’re lucky enough to be visiting Rome while the roses are blooming
(late April to mid-June), you can’t ask for a better place to get some peace and quiet than this little-known
and beautiful garden.

Palazzo Spada
Though it is home to beautiful art, the Palazzo Spada is best known for its clever optical illusion.

Intrigued?

Inside the Galleria Spada sits a corridor of columns, dead-ending in a modestly-sized statue, that is
meticulously designed to appear nearly 4x longer than its actual 9m length.

Want to give your eyes a workout? Discover Rome off the beaten path with a visit to Palazzo Spada.

Teatro Marcello
At first glance, this Ancient Roman theater looks a lot like the
Colosseum–just, you know, much smaller… and also older! Julius
Caesar himself ordered the land to be cleared for construction of
the theater, though he was assassinated before it could be built (it
ended up being inaugurated by Augustus).

Today, it’s not possible to go inside, but it is well-worth admiring

the exterior while in Rome.

Be sure to note the windows at the top: the top half of the building
is home to private apartments today, and I have to admit, it’s hard to imagine a cooler place to live.

Offbeat Neighborhoods to Check Out

There’s no such thing as a neighborhood in Rome that is completely devoid of tourists–but once you leave
the hotspots of the Centro Storico and Trastevere, it is possible to enjoy a slice of Roman life without
crowds… and perhaps even surrounded primarily by Italians!

Here are a couple neighborhoods worth looking into if you want to get off the beaten path a bit in Rome, but
still be close to the action and somewhere with plenty highlights to discover.
Monti
Once upon a time, Monti was a slum and a red light district in
Rome–and like so many other similar areas in the world, today
it has morphed into an under-the-radar hipster enclave of tasty
restaurants and cool boutiques, all surrounded by beautiful
cobblestone streets.

Monti is a big student area, so if you’re looking for slightly-

less-expensive cuisine, Monti is a great place to look.

Ostiense

A cool street art scene and the Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls–those might seem like two very
different things for one neighborhood to be known for, but hey. That’s Rome for you!

Ostiense is a fantastic mix of the old and the new, is popular with students and self-described hipsters alike,
and a great place to check out Rome’s nightlife.

Quartiere Coppedè
Quartiere Coppedè, located within the greater Trieste
neighborhood, is the very definition of whimsical.

This is a place where an outdoor chandelier frames the entrance

to the neighborhood, the architecture is so over-the-top that it
looks like a fantasy world, and the streets are quiet.

Quartiere Coppedè isn’t necessarily a place you need to spend

very long in, but as far as hidden gems in Rome go, it sure is a
fascinating one.

Pigneto

With a working-class-neighborhood-meets-up-and-coming-area vibe, Pigneto isn’t so much a hidden gem in

Rome as one that most visitors simply don’t make it to–but if you’re looking for trendy restaurants (perhaps
even ones serving cuisines other than traditional Roman food, if you want to shake things up during your
trip), cool boutiques, and plenty of bars, a visit to Pigneto might be a great way to spend one of your
evenings in Rome.
Testaccio
Home to the Pyramid of Caius Cestius, the Non-Catholic
Cemetery, the delicious (and fairly local) Testaccio Market,
and a beautiful, tree-filled piazza, Testaccio is a great
neighborhood to check out if you would like to get off the
beaten path in Rome and still be surrounded by interesting
treasures.

It also borders Aventine Hill, making spots like the Orange

Garden and Keyhole at Aventine Hill easy to access.

Getting Around Rome Off the Beaten Path

While Rome’s (limited) metro system tends to be sufficient for visiting the major attractions in the city, if
you want to properly experience Rome off the beaten path, you’ll need to think a bit broader in terms of
transportation.

We included a map of the hidden gems in Rome that we’ve outlined near the top of this post–you’ll notice
that while some of them are within walking distance of other unmissable places in Rome, others are a bit
harder to access.

If you’d like to stick to public transportation, look into trams and buses, both of which offer more expansive
networks than the metro.

Otherwise, we love the MyTaxi app in Rome–it’s cheaper and easier to use in the city than Uber (Uber is in
a back-and-forth battle for legitimacy and doesn’t have a lot of presence in Italy–it’s only available at all in
Rome and Milan), and far simpler than arguing over fares with Rome’s notorious taxi drivers.

We’ve used MyTaxi to visit several of hidden gems in Rome, and highly recommend the service.

Top 10 Rome Attractions

The Italian capital is a city bursting with historic attractions, sites, landmarks and beautiful places to visit in
Rome and no visit ever feels long enough. To help you see the best Rome attractions and use your time
wisely, here are some top 10 things to do in Rome which won’t have you maxing out your credit card. You
don’t need to splash out to have fun and it’s easy to make your travel fund stretch here, so visit Rome
landmarks like the Coliseum for free, eat a cheap local pizza and see some of the best views in the world
without breaking the bank. Check out our favourites below.
Colosseum
The Coliseum is one of the most iconic landmarks in Rome
and it’s a must-visit on your trip to Rome. This should be
first on your list of Rome attractions to visit as a historic
site and one of the city’s most significant Rome landmarks,
where both emperors and commoners came together as
one. As the former site where brutal gladiator fights took
place, tourists can now walk along the ancient tiers and
corridors that date back over 2,000 years and learn about
what really went on as life as a gladiator through
fascinating exhibits. See the armour they used to wear and
weapons each gladiator fought with depending on their rank and training.

Address: Piazza del Colosseo , 00184 Rome

Metro: Colosseo (Metro line B)
Visit duration: 2 hours

Walk in The Steps of Gladiators Under the Colosseum Arena Floor

Want to experience the Colosseum from a gladiator’s point of view? Then look no
further than this guided tour of the arena floor and third tier. Both sections are
accessed by small private tours only, which means you can enjoy the spectacle that
is the Colosseum without the crowds.
Below the arena floor you’ll see the subterranean backstage that was completely
filled in during the 5th century AD, as a result, has preserved the area considerably.
On the tour, you’ll see where slaves worked, where wild animals such as lions,
tigers, hyenas, and bears were kept and see where gladiators rested, ate, and prayed.
Also included on the tour is special access to the third tier. Sitting at thirty-three
metres high, this area offers unique views unseen from anywhere else in the
Colosseum. Enjoy an uninterrupted view of both of the immense interior of the Colosseum as well as out
across Rome.

Roman Forum

The Roman Forum is one of the most impressive

Rome landmarks and a stunning testament to the
beauty of the ancient capital. Once a bustling market
place, you can walk along the cobbled streets and see
how the Ancient Romans once lived their day-to-day
lives as merchants and traders. The historic structure’s
arches and pillars are a reminder of the grand empire
that once was and it’s one of the most impressive
places to visit in Rome. Look out for the Arch of
Septimus Severus, Temple of Romulus of the main
square.

Address: Via di San Gregorio, 30 - 00184 Rome

Metro: Colosseo (Metro line B)
Visit duration: 2 hours
Borghese Gallery
The Borghese Gallery is one of Rome’s finest art galleries and
anyone looking for cultural places to visit in Rome should make
this a priority. Set in the heart of Rome’s most loved parks and
beautiful buildings, the Villa Borghese, the Gallery is the oldest
private collection of art – dating back to Scipione Borghese in
the 16th – 17th century – who was also the patron of Caravaggio
and Bernini whose pieces feature heavily throughout.

Address: Piazzale del Museo, Borghese, 5 - 00197 Rome

Bus: Pinciana- Museo Borghese
Visit duration: 2 hours

Marvel at the Best Private Art Collection at Galleria Borghese

They say the best museum in Rome is the city itself. But situated in Villa
Borghese park is the Galleria Borghese. Its collections are housed in a
magnificent 17th-century villa with 20 rooms featuring masterpieces of
the Renaissance and the beginnings of baroque art. If you only have the
time for one art gallery in Rome, make it Galleria Borghese.
The collection was begun by Cardinal Scipione Borghese, the most
knowledgeable and ruthless art collector of his day. Scipione Borghese
was an early patron of Gian Lorenzo Bernini and an ardent collector of
works by Caravaggio. Amongst the gallery’s gems are paintings by
Caravaggio including Boy with a Basket of Fruit and St Jerome
Writing and Sacred and Profane Love by Titian.
My personal favourite part of the collection is the sensational sculptures
by Bernini. Look out for Bernini’s “Ratto di Proserpina” (Rape of
Proserpina) and “Apollo e Dafne” (Apollo and Daphne).
Closed on Monday’s, the Galleria Borghese must be booked advance as
admittance is set at two-hourly intervals. This ensures you’ll have the pleasure of wandering around without
having to navigate through the crowd.

Eat a Gelato
You’ll never be short of a gelaterias in Rome. The sweet ice
cream and sorbets can be found around the city, each vying
to outdo each other on their range of flavours. From the
renowned Giolitti situated around the corner from the
Pantheon to hidden away Gelateria del Teatro, it’s worth
trying every flavour you have room in your stomach for -
and believe us, there’s a wide range. Why not experiment
with lavender or peach for a refreshing taste of summer or
more decadent flavours like tiramisu and hazelnut?
Sistine Chapel and Vatican Museums
The Sistine Chapel in the Vatican is one of the best
things to do in Rome – if not in the world!
Michelangelo’s The Last Judgement is famous
around the globe and you must see it on your trip to
the Vatican City to appreciate the sheer skill that went
into its creation over 400 years ago. Within the
Vatican Museums you can also see the history of the
Papal lineage – covering over 9 miles – including
busts, sculptures, tapestries and paintings. As one of
the best places to visit in Rome, it can get quite busy
so be prepared to set most of the day aside for this
one.

Address: Viale Vaticano, 00165 Roma

Metro: Ottaviano-S.Pietro-Musei Vaticano (Metro A line)
Visit duration: 4 hours

St Peter's Basilica
St Peter’s Basilica is a stunning historic building in Rome and one of the
most important religious places to visit in Rome, welcoming thousands of
pilgrims a year. As one of the most famous churches in the world, St
Peter’s boasts the largest dome in history, as well as a huge Baroque
Baldachin under which the Pope gives mass. Climb to the top of the
dome for breath-taking views over the city and St Peter’s Square.

Address: Piazza San Pietro, Vatican City

Metro: Ottaviano-S.Pietro-Musei Vaticano (Metro A line)
Visit duration: 2 hours

Eat a Roman-style pizza

Rome and Pizza go together, hand in hand. And like gelaterias, you won’t
struggle to find a slice or two during your visit. The Italians have pizza al
taglio which simply means by the slice so you can find a small, open
countered pizzeria and pay by the measure. That means you can try more
flavours, too! Alternatively head into one of the many trattorias for a sit
down pizza and you’ll fall in love with the soft doughy crusts and melt-
in-your-mouth mozzarella.

Discover the skyline of Rome

The Janiculum Hill (or Gianicolo) in Rome is the second tallest hill in the city. This means that you are
guaranteed unparalleled views from this western vantage point over Rome. This summit is loved by visitors
and locals alike who climb up to watch the sun go down, or visit at night, buy a Peroni or two and take in the
views over the city – illuminated in the dark.

Address: Passeggiata Del Gianicolo, 00165 Rome

Bus: Piazzale Garibaldi
Visit duration: 2 hours
Fontana di Trevi
The Trevi Fountain is one of the most
impressive Baroque sculptures and Rome
landmarks. Built in the 1760s it’s now one of
the most famous fountains in the world and
frequently tops lists like this one as one of the
best places to visit in Rome. Legend has it that
if you visit and toss a coin over your left
shoulder, you’re guaranteed to return to Rome!
Visit it at night and you can see the white
marble and pool illuminated – a great photo
opportunity.

The Palatine Hill

This is the third point of interest included in the
Colosseum ticket.
Palatine Hill, one of the 7 hills of Rome, is
according to mythology the place where the city
was founded by Romulus and Remus. As you
might know, they are the two twins who would
have been found and suckled by a wolf in a cave.
At the top of Palatine Hill, you will have access
to this cave and ruins of the residences of
historical figures such as Augustus, the first
Roman emperor.

Piazza Venezia
Not far from the Roman Forum, at the other end of Via dei fori
impierali, you can find piazza Venezia, one of Rome’s main
squares. From there, all the streets leads to Rome’s main tourist
attractions!

This is where you can admire the Monument to Victor

Emmanuel II, also called “Altare della Patria” or “Vittoriano”,
a huge white marble building dedicated to the first king of Italy,
Victor Emmanuel II.

Next to the square, there is also the famous Trajan’s column, with bas-reliefs retracing the military conquests
of the Emperor Trajan.

Monument to Victor-Emmanuel II, Piazza Venezia

Piazza del Campidoglio (Capitol Square)
Climb the broad staircase leading to the Monument to
Victor Emmanuel II and you will arrive on Capitol
Square. Designed by Michelangelo himself, it was
formerly the political and religious heart of Rome. On
Capitol Square, you can see:

 The Palazzo Senatorio or Senatorial Palace

 The Palazzo dei Conservatori or Palace of the
Conservators
 Palazzo Nuovo or New Palace, which now houses the Capitoline Museums and the Museum of Art
and Archaeology. One of the most famous art piece you can find there is the Capitoline Wolf statue:
The one with the mythical she-wolf suckling Romulus and Remus. You may have already seen it, it’s
in almost all history books! Don’t forget to buy your tickets in advance here.

Piazza del Campidoglio

The Pantheon

The Pantheon is the best preserved ancient building in Rome and

another must-see touristic attraction to add to this list!

Originally dedicated to all mythology divinities, it became a

Christian church in the 7th century. Don’t hesitate to enter, the visit
is free of charge, which is rare enough to mention it!

Inside, admire the immense dome and the oculus (the opening
in the dome), giving the place a unique lighting.

In the Pantheon, you can also see the tombs of Raphael (the
famous artist) and Victor Emmanuel II (1st king of Italy, as mentioned above when I talked about the
beautiful building dedicated to him on Piazza Venezia)

And if you want to get more historical information, you should get an audioguide. It can be booked here.

The Pantheon, a free visit you shouldn’t miss in Rome

Piazza Navona
The Piazza Navona is located in the heart of the historic center,
not far from the Pantheon. it’s one of the most beautiful and
famous square of Rome! There, you can admire the 3 following
fountains:

 The Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi

 The Fontana del Nettuno
 The Fontana del Moro
It’s a great place to have a drink or eat ice cream on one of the many terraces, but beware, since this place is
very touristic, the prices are too!

The piazza Navona

Piazza di Spagna
The Via Condotti will take you straight to the charming Piazza di
Spagna, certainly one of the most popular squares, thanks to the
beautiful perspective it offers.

The Piazza di Spagna is located at the foot of the monumental

staircase leading it to the Trinità dei Monti church. The flowery
staircase is the perfect place to take a short break for tourists and
Italians alike. A popular gathering place!

On the square, you can also see the Barcaccia fountain ,which
adds to the charm of the place.

Piazza del Popolo

The Piazza del Popolo or People’s Square is located near
Villa Borghese. It’s one of the largest squares of Rome. It’s a
major point of interest, with its fountains, 3 churches and
obelisk. From the square, climb the stairs to the top of the hill,
you will have a beautiful view up to the Vatican.
Piazza del Popolo

The bridge and Castel Sant’Angelo

From the piazza, you can then follow the Tiber to the
Sant’Angelo bridge and the castle of the same name located
on the opposite bank.
The bridge is decorated with 10 statues representing angels,
all designed by Bernini. From the bridge, you will have a
magnificent view of the city and the river.
The Castel Sant’Angelo, on the other hand, was built by
Emperor Hadrian to serve as a mausoleum. Later on, it
started to play an important military role: it even served as a place of refuge for the popes during invasions!
They have even created a direct access to the Vatican.
You can visit the castle, see the tombs and the ancient popes apartments. You shouldn’t miss the great view
from the rampart walk.
St. Peter’s Square
You will enter the Vatican through the famous St. Peter’s
Square (Piazza San Pietro in Italian). Every year, millions of
pilgrims and tourists comes to see this square!

St. Peter’s Square was designed with the following principle in

mind: they wanted to allow the greatest number of people to see
the Pope give his blessing from the balcony of St. Peter’s
Basilica.

Two colonnades surround the square, consisting of nearly 280

columns and 145 saints statues. In the center of St. Peter’s
Square stands an Egyptian obelisk surrounded by 2 large fountains. The long waiting lines to visit the basilica
start from this square.

The huge St Peter’s Square, in the Vatican city

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Visit a Three-Tiered Complex at St Clement Basilica Dating Back to 64 AD (Basilica of

San Clemente al Laterano)
Passage leading to a 1st century Roman house
From the outside, St Clement Basilica looks like another basilica, but once inside
you’ll be lead on a fascinating journey into the history of Rome.
In 1857, the Dominican Friar Mullouly who lived in the monastery at San
Clement began excavating beneath the relatively modern church, which dates
back to the 1200s. He was rewarded with one of the most interesting discoveries
of his time; an early Christian basilica dating back to 350 A.D. Mullouly
continued digging and discovered yet another, more ancient, layer from 1 A.D.
All of this is located just a short walk from the Colosseum!

Upon entry, you will see the beautiful interior of St Clement

Basilica which features a marvelous 12th-century apse mosaic
depicting the “Trionfo della Croce” (Triumph of the Cross) and
wonderful Renaissance frescoes in the Chapel of St Catherine.
For a small admission fee, you can explore the excavations of the
lower two levels. Take the steps down to the 4th-century basilica
which was mostly destroyed by Norman invaders in 1084. Look
out for the faded 11th-century frescoes illustrating the life of San
Clement.
Continue down another level to see a 1st-century Roman house and a dark, 2nd-century temple to Mithras
which features an altar showing the god slaying a bull. To add to the atmosphere, you will hear the eerie
sound of a subterranean river flowing through a Republic-era drain. This place is NOT to be missed!

See the Magical Optical Illusion of St Peter’s Dome

 The view of St. Peter’s from Via Niccolò Piccolomini is
awesome. Every time I head up there I’m fascinated and
gobsmacked by the illusion that unfolds here. A special feature
of this street is that it is perfectly aligned with the dome of St.
Peters.
From the far end of this long hilltop road, the dome appears
large and imposing, but as you walk towards the dome you’ll
begin to see the optical illusion. The nearer you get, the smaller
the dome appears to the point where it looks tiny. Wondering
how the illusion works? Well, it’s said to be attributed to the layout of the buildings in the street.
The illusion is best enjoyed and more dramatic when viewed from a moving vehicle. It’s an ideal spot to end
your day out in the city centre.

Wander Through Ancient Thermal Baths at the Baths of Caracalla (Le Terme di
Caracalla)
Granted, this one may have made its way on to your list, but
it’s worth mentioning. The Baths of Caracalla are the largest
surviving ruins of an ancient baths complex in Rome. This is a
must-add item to your list of things to do in Rome. The
crumbling complex of brick walls, broken archways, and the
remains of floor mosaics extends over an impressive 33 acres.
Commissioned by Septimius Severus before his death, the
baths were named after his son, emperor Caracalla who
reigned from AD 211-221. Caracalla is remembered as one of
the most notorious of emperors due to the massacres and persecutions he authorised and initiated throughout
the Empire. Despite his threatening demeanour, Caracalla proved to be a strong administrator evidenced by
his granting Roman citizenship to all freemen throughout the Roman Empire.
The Baths of Caracalla were fed by a dedicated aqueduct that
accommodated a staggering 1,600 bathers at a time. The baths
provided two basic functions for ancient Romans; sanitation and an
opportunity to socialise. There were two palaestra (gyms), two
libraries (one for Greek texts, one for Latin texts), and plenty of
shops.
Be sure to have a guided tour of this marvel. You’ll be fascinated to
learn how the temperature of the water was controlled, and how
each of the three major baths (tepidarium, calidarium, and frigidarium) were used.
If you’re visiting during the summer months you can even see live performances. The baths create a superb
and dramatic backdrop while watching an opera.
 Move over, Baths of Diocletian–the better preserved and far more vast
(in their modern form, anyway) Baths of Caracalla are where you want
to go to admire the ruins of what were once the second-largest set of
public baths in Ancient Rome.

The sheer scale of these ruins is hard to describe, and while it does take a
bit of effort to reach them (they’re about a 10-15 minute walk beyond
Circus Maximus), they’re a delightful–and generally uncrowded–peek into
Ancient Rome

Take Stroll Along the Oldest and Longest Road of Rome, Via Appia Antica
Casal Rotondo, the largest mausoleum on Via Appia Antica.
Remember the old saying “All Roads Lead to Rome”, well this
road stretched all the way to the southeast of Italy in Brindisi!
The Appian Way or Via Appia, was one of the earliest and
strategically most important Roman roads of the
ancient republic.
It was named after Appius Claudius Caecus, a
Roman censor who began and completed the first 90 kilometres
as a military road to the south in 312 BC during the Samnite
Wars. The Appian Way was the first long road built
specifically to transport troops outside the smaller region of
greater Rome.
Via Appia Antica is a gorgeous cobbled road surrounded by
towering pine trees, grassy fields, and dotted with ancient
wonders. While you may not be able to visit all 300km, three
major catacombs (San Callisto, San Sebastiano and Santa
Domitilla) are open for guided tours. Wondering why there
are so many catacombs here? Well, Roman law forbade burial
places within city limits so the early Christians buried their
dead in 300km of underground catacombs.
Another interesting fact is that Spartacus and six thousand of
his slave rebels were crucified here in 71 BC. After the
catacombs is Circus Maxentius which is much better-preserved
compared to Circus Maximus. From here is the Tomb of
Cecilia Metella, a round mausoleum which was later converted
into a fortress.
The best time to visit is on a Sunday and public holidays when
the whole area is closed to traffic thus becoming Rome’s biggest pedestrian zone. As you explore the ancient
road you will you be rewarded with stunning views of the remains of seven Roman aqueducts dating back to
the Republican and Imperial age. The ancient house, Villa dei Quintilli, situated here was so desirable that
emperor Commodus murdered the owners to have it for himself.

“All roads lead to Rome,” and one of the most important of them is the Appian Way (in Italian, Via Appia
Antica).
Though the road was particularly important for transporting troops in Ancient Roman times, today it is
known as a great place to escape the busy pace of the city–especially on Sundays, when the area is closed to
traffic and makes an especially lovely place for a walk or bike ride.

Near the Appian Way is also where you’ll find some of Rome’s best-known catacombs, including the
Catacombs of San Sebastiano and the Catacombs of San Callisto.

Since the Appia Antica is long, joining a small tour group like this electric bike tour is a great idea.

Take the Pope’s Secret Escape Route at Il Passetto di Borgo

The Passetto di Borgo, or simply Passetto meaning
small passage, is an elevated passage that links
the Vatican City with Castel Sant’Angelo. This
corridor, located in the district of Borgo, was erected
in 1277 by Pope Nicholas III and extends for
approximately 800 metres (2,600 ft.). On several
occasions, it served as an escape route for Popes in
danger.
In 1494, Pope Alexander VI crossed it when Charles
VIII invaded the city. Then in 1527 during the Sack
of Rome, Clement VII escaped to safety through this
passage when troops of the Holy Roman Emperor
massacred almost the entire Swiss Guard on the steps of St Peter’s Basilica.
This has to be one of the coolest things I’ve done in Rome. By walking in the footsteps of Pope’s who
sought safety when Rome was under threat, you get a sense of how they must’ve felt as they fled along this
passageway. Unfortunately, Il Passetto is only open in the summer for guided tours during the event “Notti
d’Estate a Castel Sant’Angelo” (Summer Nights at Castel Sant’Angelo). Be sure to book your tickets here!
Visit Quartiere Coppedè, a Hidden Fairy-Tale Neighbourhood
Unknown to most tourists and even the locals, Quartiere Coppedè
gets its name from Gino Coppedè, a Florentine architect who
designed and built the quarter between 1913 and 1926.
Upon entering this tiny neighbourhood from Via Tagliamento and
Via Dora, you’ll see Tuscan turrets, Liberty sculptures, Moorish
arches, Gothic gargoyles, frescoed façades, and palm-fringed
gardens.
I was told of this magical place by my landlady, Rosaria who
shared my passion for hidden Roman treasures. After mentioning
my visit to my Italian friends, they were surprised they had never
heard of it before. From then on they sought my advice on other
hidden corners of Rome. The best way to get here is by taking
trams 3 or 19 to Piazza Buenos Aires.

Explore a Baroque Palace at Palazzo Barberini

Looking up Borromini’s staircaseThis gem was commissioned to
celebrate the Barberini family’s rise to papal power in the
16th century, every inch of this palace will impress you. Starting
with the large squared staircase by Bernini and the helicoidal
staircase by Borromini. Upon entering the salon, your eyes will
be drawn to the large and spectacular ceiling fresco by Pietro da
Cortona called “Il Trionfo della Divina Provvidenza” (Triumph
of Divine Providence) it was finished in just three years.
There are so many great paintings on display here that I’ve
visited the palace at least four times already. Don’t miss the three works by
Caravaggio including “San Francesco d’Assisi in meditazione” (St Francis in
Meditation), “Narciso” (Narcissus) and the horrific “Giuditta e Oloferne” (Judith
Beheading Holophernes).
Perhaps the most famous of paintings here is Raphael’s “La Fornarina” (The
Baker’s Girl), a portrait of his mistress who worked in a bakery in Rome’s
Trastevere neighbourhood.
Walk around the prettiest streets in Rome
Located on the other side of the Tiber River is Trastevere, originally the home of the
working class this neighbourhood boast some of the most beautiful streets in Rome.
Imagine rustic orange buildings draped in vines and quiet narrow cobbled streets.
That’s Trastevere.

Where to Eat & Drink in Rome

With a city nicknamed Caput Mundi—Capital of the World—it’s only
natural that Romans are accustomed to seeing their home as unrivaled in
matters of history, culture, and food. And while it’s true that traditional
local cuisine holds a sacred place at the table, the Rome is hardly
impervious to change. The city’s classics, from carbonara to cacio e
pepe, are still universally beloved, but Rome’s dining and drinking
culture, like that of all cities, is in a constant state of evolution (albeit at a
glacial pace compared to New York, Paris or London). Recently,
tightening purse strings, transitioning food systems, and changing palates have conspired to create exciting
new ways of dining, drinking, and shopping for food.
The innovative features of Rome’s flourishing food and drinks scene are at
their best when they use tradition as a foundation: neo-trattorias like Santo
Palato serve honest classics with a few clever twists, while the booming
independent enoteca scene, embodied by wine bars like Il Sorì, La Mescita, and
Mostò embrace natural and traditional wines. Craft beer pubs like Ma Che Siete
Venuti a Fa’ and Artisan, run by enthusiastic experts, promote small producers
over conventional choices and a revived interest in food provenance has given rise to a growing number of
farmers’ markets, which contrary to popular belief are relative newcomers to the city’s gastronomic
landscape.
Visitors to the Italian capital will be endlessly satisfied, whether they are after traditional foods or fresh
flavors–but only if they know exactly where to look! So, where should you eat, drink, and shop for food in
Rome? SO MANY AWESOME PLACES. I have so many resources dispersed over so many platforms, I
can hardly keep track of it all. Here they are all in one place so you’ll have all my personally and
independently* vetted recommendations for dining and drinking in Rome.

Cucina Romana
If you are after traditional cucina romana at moderate prices, Armando al Pantheon and Cesare al Casaletto
are your best bets. And for super honest, affordable, delicious Roman/Umbrian/Sardinian specialties, plus
pizza, serve with a smile, Tavernaccia Da Bruno is it.
Roscioli, Santo Palato, Mazzo may not serve explicitly traditional classics, instead blending modern
techniques with local flavors, but all three are excellent. I have a handy guide for getting the most out of
your visit to Roscioli, a must-read before this must-visit.

Pizza
For Neapolitan style pizza, check out Tonda, Sforno, Sbanco, and La Gatta Mangiona, while Da Remo and
Pizzeria Ostiense serve excellent thin crust Roman pies. 180g Pizzeria Romana does thin-crust Roman style
with a gourmet flare. Don’t miss pizza by the slice at Pizzarium and Panificio Bonci (or Bonci’s new spots
in Mercato Centrale and the Flaminio district). I also like Prelibato for a slice. The pizza bianca at Antico
Forno Roscioli and pizza rossa at Forno Campo de’ Fiori are delicious, as are the various flavored slices at
the latter (Forno Roscioli’s pizzas are heavy IMO). For tasty little pizzette, visit Da Artenio in the Mercato
di Testaccio. And for a round-up of these and other favorite places for pizza in Rome, take a peek at this
article I wrote for the defunct Lucky Peach Magazine.

Fine Dining
You may wish to give fine dining a pass. So much of it is so disappointing, derivative, and precious. But if
you must, I highly recommend Metamorfosi in Parioli, which is the only Michelin-starred spot in Rome that
I really have fun at. Il Sanlorenzo, an upscale fish restaurant in central Rome, may not have a star, but you’ll
find formal service, an elegant atmosphere, and the finest fish dishes in town. (Not everyone reports the
same service experience–see comments below). For more fresh fish at prices that reflect their high quality
(fresh fish in Italy is very expensive), I love raw dishes, fried starters, and seafood pasta at Tempio di Iside.

Jewish Classics
For kosher meals, try C’e’ Pasta…e Pasta, which serves Roman Jewish classics cafeteria-style. In the
Ghetto, Boccione Forno del Ghetto does amazing fruitcake called pizza ebraica, as well as spectacular
almond paste and ricotta cakes. Nearby, Nonna Betta serves kosher-style food in a restaurant setting. Stick to
the the pezzetti fritti, concia (fried and marinated zucchini) carciofi alla giudia (in season in the winter), and
spaghetti con bottarga e cicoria.

Street Food
Go to Testaccio or San Giovanni for brisket or artichoke or kidney sandwiches at Mordi e
Vai. The trapizzini at the growing number of Trapizzino shops are a must (especially the
chicken cacciatore)! I’m a fan of the Trastevere location in Piazza Trilussa, which is
currently the only branch with table service and a full-on wine list. The suppli’, potato
croquettes, and fried pastry cream at Supplizio are super tasty.

Gelato & Pastries

For gelato, my favorites are Al Settimo Gelo, and Gelateria dei Gracchi, Il Gelato di Claudio Torce’, Otaleg,
and Fior di Luna. My recently updated Guide to the Best Gelato in Rome has more.
Century-old Regoli and two-year-old Roscioli Caffè offer excellent traditional Roman pastries, while Andrea
De Bellis serves delicious contemporary sweets.

Coffee
There’s coffee everywhere, but some places truly are a cut above. My favorite historic shop is Sciascia,
established in 1919. Two new-ish place celebrating Italian-style coffees with third wave techniques are
Roscioli Caffè and Pergamino, Faro, and Marjani Coffee.
Wine & Beer
Thristy? My favorite wine bars are the aforementioned Il Sorì, La Mescita, and Mostò, as well as my local
Litro, recently refurbished Bulzoni, and long-established Il Goccetto. I often stop in at La Barrique,
Remigio, and Barnaba for a glass.
For beer, I love Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà, Open Baladin, Birra +, Stavio, Brasserie 4:20, and Be.Re.,
Artisan, and Luppolo Station. I also drop in at the Jungle Juice Brewing in Mandrione whenever I can; their
bar is evenings from Thursday to Sunday.
You can buy wine to take away at the wine bars listed above, as well as at Les Vignerons in Trastevere. For
spirits, check out Costantini, Whisky & Co., and the Jerry Thomas Emporium.

Salumi & Formaggi

If you love cheeses and cured meats, visit DOL, Secondo Tradizione,
Roscioli, and Beppe e I Suoi Formaggi (skip the cured meats there and
stick to the cheeses). All of those places also sell food to takeaway, except
for Secondo Tradizione…but it’s cool because nearby their sister shop La
Tradizione nearby has the most amazing products.

International Cuisine & Regional Italian

Need a break from Roman fare? Check out Mesob in Pigneto for Ethiopian, Doozo in Monti for seasonal
Japanese dishes, Janta Fast Food for Indian, and Kiko for sushi. Asian Inn in Viale Marconi does ace
Chinese regional cuisine and has a very good wine list. Nearby, Dumpling Bar serves…dumplings. 7 Lanka
does cheap and tasty Sri Lankan dishes, while Neighborhood Restaurant serves excellent Filipino &
Kapampangan cuisines.
In the regional Italian category, Trattoria Monti is wonderful for specialties from Le Marche. Tram Tram is
great for fish and vegetable classics from Puglia.
Prices per person, excluding alcohol

$ = Less than €15 (less than USD 16)

$$ = €16 - €39 (USD 18 to USD 44)
$$$ = €40 - €66 (USD 45 to USD 73)
$$$$ = More than €66 (more than USD 74)

Cesare al Casaletto
Via del Casaletto, 45
00151 Roma, Italy
+39 06 536015

Following careers in fine dining in Italy and abroad, Leonardo Vignoli and Maria Pia Cicconi went back to
basics with Cesare al Casaletto, a straightforward trattoria the husband-and-wife duo took over in 2009. The
menu features all the Roman classics with a few restrained twists thrown in; the pasta alla gricia has
achieved cult status. The beverage list spotlights stunningly affordable natural wines from Italy, France, and
Slovenia. Cesare isn’t particularly close to any monuments, though don’t rule out a post-lunch stroll through
nearby Villa Pamphili, a vast public park. [$$]

Otaleg
Viale dei Colli Portuensi, 594
00151 Roma RM, Italy
338 651 5450

Marco Radicioni opened Otaleg in the Portuense district in southwestern Rome in 2012.
The name is simply “gelato” spelled backwards, which mirrors the shop’s design, in
which the gelato workshop fills the storefront, rather than hiding in the back. Otaleg’s
rich and creamy all-natural gelato is made from high-quality ingredients like Valrhona
chocolate, bourbon-Madagascar vanilla beans, and IGP Tonda Gentile Trilobata
hazelnuts. [$]

Otaleg Otaleg/Official

Pizzarium
Via della Meloria, 43
00136 Roma, Italy
+39 06 3974 5416

Gabriele Bonci’s landmark pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice) shop near the
Vatican Museums entrance isn’t a restaurant per se. There’s no table service,
and there are only a few benches outside. But in the decade since it opened,
Pizzarium has become a globally acclaimed landmark where cold-
fermented, heirloom wheat-based dough is topped with exquisite produce
from biodynamic sources and artisanal cured meats and cheeses. Most
toppings change from day to day, or even hour to hour, but Pizzarium’s
signatures (tomato and oregano and potato and mozzarella) are always
available. [$]
Panificio Bonci
Via Trionfale, 36
00195 Roma RM, Italy
06 3973 4457

Located not far from the Vatican, Panificio Bonci is a bakery opened by
internationally renowned baker and Pizzarium founder Gabriele Bonci in 2012.
Bonci trades in Roman bakery classics like loaves of bread, cookies, cakes,
pastries, and some prepared foods, such as impeccably roasted chicken. There’s
pizza al taglio (by the slice), too, and the toppings are far more mainstream
than the creative combos you’ll find atop pies at Pizzarium nearby. [$]

Porchetta sandwich at Panificio Bonci Katie Parla

L'Osteria di Birra del Borgo Roma

Via Silla, 26a
00192 Roma RM, Italy
06 8376 2316

The newest venture from local brewery Birra del Borgo pours plenty of beer, but
also serves a full food menu from Luca Pezzetta, a pizza baker known for his
creative “third wave” approach to Italy’s most popular food. There are a handful
of front-row seats by the pizza station, where Pezzetta and his team prepare
“trrranch” (sandwiches made with pizza dough), pizza in teglia (pizza baked in
sheet pans), and pizze tonde (round pizzas). The menu also includes pasta dishes,
as well as cured meats and cheese plates. The drink selection is split between
Birra del Borgo-brand beers, an assortment of domestic and imported craft brews, and beer-based cocktails
designed by the Jerry Thomas Project, Rome’s top craft cocktail bar. [$$]

Antico Arco
Piazzale Aurelio, 7
00152 Roma, Italy
+39 06 581 5274

Situated on the Janiculum Hill between the panoramic terrace of Fontanone and
the Villa Pamphili public park, Antico Arco serves refined and restrained
contemporary cuisine that highlights seasonal Italian ingredients. Depending upon
market availability, there may be cacio e pepe with fried squash blossoms,
hazelnut-crusted lamb filet with porcini mushrooms, or steak with chanterelle
mushrooms and black truffles. As an added bonus, Antico Arco is open 365 days a
year and is one of the few quality spots in town that does not close between lunch
and dinner services. [$$$]
Litro
Via Fratelli Bonnet, 5
00152 Roma, Italy
+39 06 4544 7639

Visit the Fontanone or another scenic overlook on the Janiculum Hill,

then head over to Litro for some refreshment. This cafe and wine bar
pours natural wines with light snacks and a few hot dishes that change
regularly. Litro is a popular spot for aperitivo in the early evenings, and
has a fully stocked bar specializing in Italian liqueurs and mezcal. Don’t
miss the anchovy and butter on toast, perfect with a glass of funky
sparkling white wine. [$$]

Litro/Official

Mostò
Viale Pinturicchio, 32
00196 Roma RM, Italy
392 257 9616

Mostò, which opened in 2015, is one of a growing number of natural wine bars
in Rome. Set on a residential street in the Flaminio district, not far from Renzo
Piano’s Auditorium and Zaha Hadid’s MAXXI, this neighborhood enoteca has
an especially fun selection of Pet-Nat vino from Italy and France, which owner
Ciro Borriello pairs with oysters, fish tartare, and exceptional buffalo
mozzarella.

Il Goccetto
Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 14, Rome
Latium 00186, Italy
+39 06 686 4268
Great atmosphere and an extensive wines-by-the-glass list (there are up to
30 on offer) make this wine bar a cult favorite among oenophiles. Look for
the painted “Vino e Olio” sign above the entrance, and then push through
the crowd of smokers to the wood-accented inner sanctum, where beloved
owners Sergio and Anna Ceccarelli have built an enviable cellar of more
than 800 labels. There’s a small menu of cold plates, including salads and
canapes. [$$]
C'è Pasta… e Pasta
Via Ettore Rolli, 29
00153 Roma, Italy
+39 06 5832 0125
Located a short distance from Stazione Trastevere, C'è Pasta… e Pasta (translation:
"There’s pasta… and pasta") serves delicious kosher meals to eat in or take away.
Order at the counter and don’t miss Roman Jewish classics like filetti di baccalà
(battered fried cod), aliciotti con l’indivia, and concia (marinated zucchini). [$]

Supplizio
Via Dei Banchi Vecchi 143, Rome
Latium 00186, Italy
+39 06 8987 1920

Chef Arcangelo Dandini, known for his formal ristorante L’Arcangelo near
the Vatican, opened this casual street-food-inspired spot on the ground floor
of a Renaissance building in central Rome in order to bring his fried
specialties and signature finger foods to the masses. The name is inspired by
supplì, Roman rice balls, and supplì of assorted flavors are served alongside
other local fast-food classics including crocchette di patate (potato
croquettes). [$$]

The Jerry Thomas Project

Vicolo Cellini, 30, Rome
Latium 00186, Italy
+39 06 9684 5937

This speakeasy-style cocktail bar, which opened in Rome’s historic center in

2009, was a pioneer in the city’s craft-cocktail movement and over the past
eight years has inspired many, many copycats in the Italian capital. Jerry
Thomas remains far ahead of the pack thanks to constant innovation and a
diverse group of founders, each expert in different spirits. Over the years, the
menu has grown from a litany of Prohibition and pre-Prohibition cocktails to
include drinks with a greater emphasis on Italian liqueurs, spirits, and bitter
flavors. The space is tiny and seating is limited, so call in advance to book,
and be warned: Smoking is allowed, and the space is poorly ventilated. [$$]
Tavernaccia Da Bruno
Via Giovanni da Castel Bolognese, 63
00153 Roma, Italy
+39 06 581 2792

Opened in southern Trastevere in 1968 by Bruno Persiani, an Umbrian

transplant to the Italian capital, this homey trattoria serves a mix of dishes
from Umbria and Rome. Tavernaccia is now run by Persiani’s daughters
and a Sardinian son-in-law who throws in a few of his own regional
specialties, like suckling pig cooked in the wood-burning oven. The fresh
pastas are excellent (especially Sunday’s lasagna, which sells out quickly)
and the wood oven-roasted brisket is otherworldly. Organic and natural
wines from Italy and Slovenia round out the wine list. [$$]

Ma Che Siete Venuti A Fà

Via Benedetta, 25, Rome
Latium 00153, Italy
+39 06 6456 2046

Routinely named among the best pubs in Europe, this long-established

craft-beer bar in Trastevere has around a dozen draft beers from the U.S.,
Italy, Belgium, Germany, and the U.K., in addition to a small but well-
curated assortment of bottles. The staff is unbelievably passionate and
knowledgeable and can guide you to the right choice for your palate. As a
bonus, Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà is open every day of the year — even on
Christmas, Easter, and New Year’s. [$]

Trapizzino
Copy Link
Piazza Trilussa, 46
00153 Roma RM, Italy
06 581 7312

The latest branch in the small but growing Trapizzino chain opened
in Trastevere in 2017, and unlike the other branches, which are
takeaway joints, this one has table service and a full bar highlighting
wines and beers from across Lazio. Pizzaiolo Stefano Callegari
invented the trapizzino in 2009, merging the triangular shape of the
popular tramezzino sandwich with a long, slowly leavened pizza
dough. He fills his tricornered creations with Roman classics like
oxtail simmered with tomato and celery, chicken with bell peppers,
and tripe cooked with tomato. For 4 euros, the trapizzino delivers
hearty Roman flavors for hungry locals on a budget. [$]
Forno Campo de' Fiori
Piazza Campo de' Fiori, 22, Rome
Latium 00186, Italy
+39 06 6880 6662

In the southwest corner of one of Rome’s most touristy squares,

Forno Campo de’ Fiori bakes sweet and savory Roman specialties
like jam tarts and flatbreads. The pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice) is
especially good; the unctuous toppings and crispy bases make a
surprisingly balanced pair. The bakery closes from 2:30 to 4:45 p.m.,
so in the meantime, pop over to the annex across the alley (Vicolo
del Gallo 14) for pizza con la mortazza (mortadella sandwiched
between slices of simple pizza bianca). [$]

Mercato Testaccio
Via Beniamino Franklin
00118 Roma RM, Italy

The Testaccio neighborhood market is the best place in central Rome to shop
for seasonal produce, meat, fish, and baked goods all in one place. Get there
in the morning to see it in full swing (it’s open Monday through Saturday
until 2 p.m.). Shop for ingredients or visit Da Artenio (Box 90) for takeaway
pizza slices and pizzette, little pizzas topped with tomato sauce, potatoes, or
onions. Don’t miss the essential Mordi e Vai (Box 15), where husband-and-
wife team Sergio Esposito and Mara Cipriani prepare sandwiches filled with
offal and meat based on family recipes (the only vegetarian options are oil-
simmered artichokes). The couple digs deep into the past to revive disappearing dishes like allesso di bollito
(simmered brisket), which they serve on a broth-drenched roll. [$]

Il Sanlorenzo
Via dei Chiavari, 4
00186 Roma, Italy
+39 06 686 5097

A narrow patio and nondescript glass storefront give way to the elegant
interior of Il Sanlorenzo, central Rome’s finest fish restaurant. Dishes depend
on seasonal availability and fishing conditions off the coast of Lazio but
typically feature local shellfish. The restaurant is known for its pasta, which
the kitchen cooks very al dente, with clams, sea urchin roe, or razor clams.
[$$$$]
Salumeria Roscioli
Via dei Giubbonari, 21
00186 Roma, Italy
+39 06 687 5287

Founded in the historic center in 2004 by Rome’s premier baking

family, Salumeria Roscioli does triple duty as a deli, wine bar, and
restaurant. Though the menu is extensive, the real stars are the
cheeses, cured meats (the burrata with semi-sundried tomatoes and
mortadella with Parmigiano-Reggiano are particularly stellar), and
pasta dishes (get the gricia, cacio e pepe, or carbonara). If you dine at
lunch or on the early side at dinner, the bread basket will include
freshly baked bread from nearby Antico Forno Roscioli. The wine
lists (one Italian, the other international) have some real steals, and
don’t miss the distilled spirits before closing out the meal. Be sure to book well in advance and request a
ground-floor table. [$$$]

Roscioli Caffè
Piazza Benedetto Cairoli, 16, Rome
Latium 00186, Italy
+39 06 8916 5330

In January 2016, the Roscioli family opened this caffé with modern
decor and classic offerings a short distance away from its eponymous
Forno and Salumeria (see above). The shop instantly became a point of
reference for coffee drinkers and pastry lovers, who fill the standing-
room-only bar area from morning until late evening. The back room,
which offers table service, serves all the sandwiches and pastries on
display in the front, as well as a selection of cheese, cured meats,
cocktails, and wine. [$$]

Piatto Romano
Via Giovanni Battista Bodoni, 62
00153 Roma, Italy
+39 06 6401 4447

Located in Testaccio, Rome’s undisputed offal capital, Piatto Romano

focuses on classics like rigatoni con la pajata (pasta with veal or lamb
intestines cooked in tomato sauce) and fettuccine con le rigaglie di pollo
(fettuccine with chicken innards) but there are plenty of pescatarian
options as well, like the outstanding cod baked with onions, pine nuts,
and prunes. [$$]
Armando al Pantheon
Salita de' Crescenzi 31, Rome
Latium 00186, Italy
+39 06 6880 3034

Located 100 feet from Rome’s most intact ancient monument, Armando al
Pantheon champions local food traditions. For more than five decades, the
Gargioli family has been dutifully producing Roman classics like spaghetti
ajo ojo e peperoncino (spaghetti with garlic, oil, and chile) and coda alla
vaccinara (oxtail braised in tomato and celery) while adhering (mostly) to
seasonal side dishes; look for puntarelle (Catalonian chicory) with
anchovy sauce and carciofi alla romana (simmered artichokes) in the
cooler months. [$$]

Boccione — il Forno del Ghetto

Via del Portico d'Ottavia, 1, Rome
Latium 00186, Italy

For more than three centuries, Rome’s Jewish community was confined to
a walled ghetto along the Tiber River. The squalid buildings are long
gone, but a historic ghetto-era bakery survives on what has become the
transformed neighborhood’s broad main thoroughfare. This kosher bakery
sells traditional Roman Jewish sweets from a spartan storefront. The pizza
ebraica — an almond-flour-based fruit cake studded with nuts, raisins,
and candied fruits — is an easy specialty to eat on the fly, but the ricotta
and sour-cherry tart is spectacular and worth the mess of eating a slice on
one of the nearby benches. Also try the amaretti (sugar-packed almond
paste cookies) and biscotti made with heaps of cinnamon and a generous smattering of whole almonds. [$$]

Nonna Betta
Via Portico d'Ottavia, 16, Rome
Latium 00186, Italy
+39 06 6880 6263

The dishes at Nonna Betta, a Kosher restaurant on the main street in

Rome’s Jewish quarter, are inspired by traditions that evolved during the
300-year-long period in which Roman Jews were confined to a walled
Ghetto. Persecution and poverty gave rise to dishes favoring fried
vegetables like carciofi alla giudia (deep fried artichokes) and pezzetti fritti
(assorted battered vegetables), as well as humble fish offerings like alicotti
con l’indivia (anchovy and frisee casserole). Alongside Roman Jewish
classics, owner Umberto Pavoncello serves more modern dishes like
carbonara made with carne secca (dried seasoned beef), but the traditional
dishes are best. [$$]
Al Moro
Vicolo delle Bollette 13, Rome
Latium 00187, Italy
+39 06 678 3495

Located near the Trevi Fountain, Al Moro is among Rome’s most

historic restaurants. Visit for a supremely Roman experience
encompassing excellent traditional and seasonal dishes served
brusquely in a set of dining rooms hung with art donated by more
than eight decades of regulars. The best time to go is at lunchtime or
a late dinner seating, when the dining room will be majority
Romans (earlier, the place is pretty packed with tourists). Order Al
Moro’s seasonal dishes, like artichokes in the winter and early
spring and mushrooms in the fall, then order the house pasta, Al
Moro’s own version of carbonara made with a pancetta-enriched
egg sauce and red pepper flakes. Al Moro is pricey, so be prepared
to spend a bit more for the same dishes you’ll find at Armando al Pantheon or another institution. [$$$]

Colline Emiliane
22 Via degli Avignonesi, Rome
Latium 00187, Italy
+39 06 481 7538

A short walk from the Trevi Fountain, this friendly trattoria has been
serving satisfying dishes from Emilia-Romagna, a region in northeastern
Italy, since 1931; the current owners took the helm in 1967. The menu is
rich in egg-based homemade pastas like tortelli di zucca (pumpkin pasta
with butter and sage) and tagliatelle alla bolognese (long strands of fresh,
egg-based pasta with a rich meat sauce). Save room for meaty mains
including bollito misto (assorted simmered meats) and fried liver. Book
well in advance and try for a Sunday, when Colline Emiliane serves
delicate, bechamel-laced lasagna. [$$]

Pasticceria Regoli
Via dello Statuto, 60, Rome
Latium 00185, Italy
+39 06 487 2812

The Regoli family opened their business in Rome in 1916 — at the

time, they were recently arrived Tuscan charcoal makers — and
transformed their small operation into one of the city’s most beloved
pastry shops. The display cases are packed with cakes, wild
strawberry tarts, maritozzi (whipped cream-filled buns), and
seasonal treats like bignè in late winter, colombe at Easter, and
pandoro at Christmas. Have pastries packaged to take away, or
order at the counter and the kitchen will send the items to your table at the neighboring Caffé Regoli. [$$]
Tempio Di Iside
Via Pietro Verri, 11
00184 Roma, Italy
+39 06 700 4741

A short walk from the Colosseum, Tempio di Iside is an

elegant fish restaurant known for its crudi (raw fish and
crustaceans) like sea urchin roe, langoustines, oysters, and fish
carpaccio. The pasta with sweet red shrimp and fresh pecorino
is excellent, as are the fish ravioli with roe. Book ahead,
especially to secure an outdoor table for dinner in the summer,
and expect to pay a premium for access to some of the freshest
fish around. [$$$$]

Santo Palato
Piazza Tarquinia, 4a/b
00183 Roma RM, Italy
06 7720 7354

Chef Sarah Cicolini earned her reputation in fine dining kitchens,

but her forte is expertly executed trattoria fare that channels the
soulful simplicity of Rome’s peasant classics — a refreshing
change in a city where young chefs frequently try and fail to
modernize the local cuisine. Diners visit Cicolini’s ochre-hued
dining room in the residential Appio-Latino quarter for
carbonara, amatriciana, and a wide range of quinto quarto (offal)
dishes, among them trippa alla romana (tripe cooked with
tomato and seasoned with pecorino Romano and mint). [$$]

Sbanco
Via Siria, 1
00179 Roma RM, Italy
06 789318

This pizzeria-ristorante near San Giovanni is the newest endeavor from

Stefano Callegari, Rome’s foremost pizza entrepreneur. Here, he teams up
with Italian craft brewery Birrificio del Ducato to serve thick-rimmed
pizzas, baked in a domed, wood-burning Valoriani oven, alongside 15
draft beers. In addition to pizza and beer, Sbanco serves a handful of meat
dishes and creatively flavored supplì. [$$]

Sbanco Sbanco/FB
Tram Tram
Via dei Reti, 44
00185 Roma, Italy
+39 06 490416

In San Lorenzo, a district near La Sapienza University, this family-run

trattoria serves carnivorous Roman fare and seafood dishes influenced by
Puglia’s coastal cuisine. The sparsely decorated dining rooms welcome
workers and families hungry for seafood pasta, pureed fava beans paired
with simmered dandelion greens, and a respectable wine list. [$$]

Mesob
Via Prenestina, 118
00176 Roma, Italy
+39 338 251 1621

Chef-owner Kuki Tadese’s Ethiopian restaurant sits on the ancient Via

Prenestina, not far from the heart of Pigneto, a district east of the city
center known for its nightlife and street art. The deeply flavored
simmered vegetables and perfectly seasoned chicken and beef stews
are served on house-made injera, a spongy sourdough flatbread. [$]

Katie Parla

Osteria Bonelli
Viale dell'Acquedotto Alessandrino, 172
00177 Roma, Italy
+39 329 863 3077

Former produce vendor Patrizio Bonelli opened his eponymous

osteria a few years ago in Tor Pignattara, a diverse, working-class
district in eastern Rome. The place is a casual affair known for
plentiful pasta portions and meat dishes like roasted lamb or
equine sausage. Owing to Bonelli’s previous profession, the
osteria offers a wide range of vegetable side dishes. [$$]
Mazzo
Via delle Rose, 54
00171 Roma, Italy
+39 06 6496 2847

Francesca Barreca and Marco Baccanelli, Rome's cooking power

couple, known as "the Fooders," have parlayed their pop-up and
festival success into a small restaurant in the peripheral Centocelle
district. At the 10-seat communal table, the duo serves their versions of
Roman soul food, like fried tripe, juicy meatballs, and oxtail terrine.
There’s an interesting selection of gin cocktails, a decidedly un-Roman
touch that works well with Mazzo’s dishes. Centocelle is a trek from
the center; though there are plenty of public transport options for
getting there, none is particularly efficient. [$$]

180g Pizzeria Romana

53, Via Tor de' Schiavi
00172 Roma RM, Italy
06 6932 4986

At 180g Pizzeria Romana in the Centocelle neighborhood, Mirko Rizzo

tends to the perfect fritti (fried starters), like rice croquettes and
shredded beef balls, while Jacopo Mercuro works the pizza oven. As the
name suggests, this “third-wave” pizzeria uses 180 grams of long-
fermented dough for each pizza, which is stretched by hand and
garnished with toppings both classic (margherita) and creative (yellow
tomatoes, burrata, and prosciutto) to yield a characteristically crispy,
chewy pizza romana. [$$]

Sforno
Via Statilio Ottato, 110/116
00175 Roma RM, Italy
06 7154 6118

Stefano Callegari’s first pizzeria is more than a decade old, yet still
draws faithful crowds to its tables near the historic Cinecittà studios
in Rome’s southeastern periphery. Diverging from the thin-crust
Roman style of pizza, Callegari embraces the thick-rimmed, Naples-
inspired pie, which he tops with both classic and creative toppings.
His signature pizzas include the Greenwich (stilton and port
reduction) and cacio e pepe; precede the pizza course with fried
starters like fiori di zucca and assorted supplì. [$$]