Ornamental Production

Growing Media
The production of greenhouse crops involves a number of cultural inputs. Among these,
perhaps the most important is the type of growing medium used. Due to the relatively
shallow depth and limited volume of a container, growing media must be amended to
provide the appropriate physical and chemical properties necessary for plant growth.

Field soils are generally unsatisfactory for the production of plants in containers. This is
primarily because soils do not provide the aeration, drainage and water holding capacity
required. To improve this situation several “soilless” growing media have been
developed. The following is a description of some of the most commonly used
amendments for the production of greenhouse crops.

Peat and Peat-Like Materials

Peat moss is formed by the accumulation of plant materials in poorly drained areas. The
type of plant material and degree of decomposition largely determine its value for use in
a growing medium. Although the composition of different peat deposits vary widely, four
distinct categories may be identified:

Hypnaceous moss – this type of peat consists of the partially decomposed remains of
hyprum, polytrichum and other mosses of the Hypanaceae family. Although it
decomposes more rapidly than some other peat types, it is suitable for media use. Many
of the peat deposits in the Northern United States are Hypnaceous.
Reed and Sedge – are peats derived from the moderately decomposed remains of
rushes, coarse grasses, sedges, reeds and similar plants. These fine textured materials
are generally less acid and contain relatively few fibrous particles. The rapid rate of
decomposition, fine particle size and insufficient fiber content make reed and sedge
peats unsatisfactory for media use.
Humus or Muck – consists of the decomposed debris of finely divided plant materials of
unknown origin. Humus often contains large quantities of silt and clay particles, and
when mixed with soil does not improve drainage or aeration. Due to its rapid rate of
decomposition and particle size, humus is considered to be undesirable for growing
media use.
Sphagnum moss – is the dehydrated remains of acid-bog plants from the genus
Sphagnum (i.e. Spapillosum). It is light in weight and has the ability to absorb 10 to 20
times its weight in water. This is attributed to the large groups of water holding cells,
characteristic of the genus. Sphagnum moss contains specific fungistatic substances
which accounts for its ability to inhibit damping-off of seedlings.
Sphagnum moss is perhaps the most desirable form of organic matter for the
preparation of growing media. Drainage and aeration are improved in heavier soils while
moisture and nutrient retention are increased in lighter soils. Germany, Canada and
Ireland are the principle regions of Sphagnum moss production.

Wood Residues

Wood residues constitute a significant source of soilless growing media. These

materials are generally bi-products of the lumber industry and are readily available in
large quantities. Nitrogen depletion by soil microorganisms, during the decomposition
process, is one of the primary problems associated with these materials. However,
supplemental applications of N to the growing media can make most wood residues
valuable amendments.

Leaf Mold – maple, oak, and sycamore are among the principle leaf types suitable for
the preparation of leaf mold. Layers of leaves and soil are composted together with
small amounts of nitrogenous compounds for approximately 12 to 18 months. The use
of leaf mold can effectively improve the aeration, drainage and water holding properties
of a growing media. Although these materials are readily available at low cost, leaf mold
is not extensively used in container production.
Sawdust – the species of tree from which sawdust is derived largely determines its
quality and value for use in a growing media. Several sawdusts, such as walnut and
non-composted redwood, are known to have direct phytotoxic effects. However, the C:N
of sawdust is such that it is not readily decomposed. The high cellulose and lignin
content along with insufficient N supplies creates depletion problems which can
severely restrict plant growth. However supplemental appli-cations of nitrogen can
reduce this problem.
Barks – are primarily a bi-product of the pulp, paper and plywood industries. Suitable
particle size is obtained by hammer milling and screening. This produces a material
which is suitable for use in container media. Physical properties obtained from tree
barks are similar to those of Sphagnum moss.
Bagasse

Bagasse is a waste bi-product of the sugar industry. It may be shredded and/or

composted to produce a material which can increase the aeration and drainage
properties of container media. Because of its high sugar content, rapid microbial activity
results after the incorporation of bagasse into a media. This decreases the durability
and longevity of bagasse and influences N levels. Although bagasse is readily available
at low cost, (usually transportation), its use is limited.

Rice Hulls

Rice hulls are a biproduct of the rice milling industry. Although they are extremely light
in weight, rice hulls are very effective at improving drainage. The particle size and
resistance to decomposition of rice hulls and sawdust are very similar. However N
depletion is not as serious of a problem in media amended with rice hulls.

Several other organic materials are suitable for use with container media. Included are:
manures; corn cobs; straw; peanut and pecan shells. However these do not constitute
major commercial sources of organic amendments.

Sand

Sand, a basic component of soil, ranges in particle size from 0.05mm to 2.0mm in
diameter. Fine sands (0.05mm – 0.25mm) do little to improve the physical properties of
a growing media and may result in reduced drainage and aeration. Medium and coarse
sand particles are those which provide optimum adjustments in media texture. Although
sand is generally the least expensive of all inorganic amendments it is also the heaviest.
This may result in prohibitive transportation costs. Sand is a valuable amendment for
both potting and propagation media.

Perlite

Perlite is a silicous mineral of volcanic origin. The grades used in container media are
first crushed and then heated until the vaporization of combined water expands it to a
light powdery substance. Lightness and uniformity make perlite very useful for
increasing aeration and drainage.

Perlite is very dusty when dry and has a tendency to float to the top of a container
during irrigation. It has also been shown that perlite contains potentially toxic levels of
fluorine. Although costs are moderate, perlite is an effective amendment for growing
media.

Vermiculite
Vermiculite is a micacious mineral produced by heating to approximately 745 oC. The
expanded, plate-like particles which are formed have a very high water holding capacity
and aid in aeration and drainage. Vermiculite has excellent ex-change and buffering
capacities as well as the ability to supply potassium and magnesium. Although
vermiculite is less du-rable than sand and perlite, its chemical and physical properties
are very desirable for container media.
Calcined Clays
Calcined clays are formed by heating montmorrillonitic clay minerals to aproximately
690oC. The pottery-like particles formed are six times as heavy as perlite. Calcined
clays have a relatively high cation exchange as well as water holding capacity. This
material is a very durable and useful amendment.
These inorganic soil amendments are generally utilized to increase the number of large
pores, decrease water holding capacity and improve drainage and aeration. Other
materials such as: pumice; cinders; and pea-gravel are also suitable for this use.

Several synthetic soil amendments are bi-products of various plastic manufacturing

companies. Others are designed specifically for use in container media. These
materials are frequently used in place of sand and perlite and have much the same
influence on media properties.

Expanded Polystyrene

Polystyrene flakes, a bi-product of polystyrene processing, are highly resistant to

decomposition, increase aeration and drainage,and decrease bulk density. Polystyrene
may be broken down by high temperatures and by certain chemical disinfecting agents.

Urea Formaldehydes

This material is prepared by mixing air with a liquid resin and allowing to cool. Urea
formaldehyde foams have a greater water holding capacity than polystyrene but are
similar in their influence on aeration and drainage. Raw materials are easily transported
and are very effective amendments.

Preparing Soilless Growing Media

Although amendment combinations may vary, basic objectives in the preparation of a

growing media are alike. An effective program should produce a growing media that is:

1. porus and well drained, yet retentive of sufficient moisture to meet the water
requirements of plants between irrigations;
2. relatively low in soluble salts, but with an adequate exchange capacity to retain and
supply the elements necessary for plant growth;
3. standardized and uniform with each batch to permit the use of standardized
fertilization and irrigation programs for each successive crop;
4. free from harmful soil pests; pathogenic organisms, soil insects, nematodes and
weed seeds
5. biologically and chemically stable following pasteurization; primarily free from organic
matter that releases ammonia when it is subjected to heat or chemical treatments.

Since innumerable amendment combinations can produce a growing medium with

these characteristics, it is important to consider both the economic as well as cultural
optimums. Factors that determine the cost of a growing medium include: transportation,
labor, equipment, materials and handling. In many cases the cost of mixing a “custom”
growing medium exceeds that of the commercially prepared materials. These factors
should be studied carefully before making a decision.
Recommended Growing Media

The composition of a growing medium should be largely determined by the crop being
produced. However there are some media formulations which may be used as a base.
The following is a list of several of the most commonly used soilless mixtures:

Table 1. Commonly used soilless mixtures for greenhouse crops.

Volume/Volume Ratio Components
2:1 Peat, Perlite1
2:1:1 Peat, Perlite, Vermiculite
2:1 Peat, Sand 3:1 Peat, Sand
3:1:1 Peat, Perlite, Vermiculite
2:1:1 Peat, Bark, Sand
2:1:1 Peat, Bark, Perlite
3:1:1 Peat, Bark, Sand
1. Foam beads may be used in place of perlite.

How to make your own growing

medium and/or potting soil!
Updated on April 25, 2015

Zsuzsy Bee more

Contact Author

This is an easy and fun DIY project, not a clean and tidy one but if you’re a gardener you're already
mucking around in the dirt anyway so it’s just a little sidestep to mixing your own ‘blend’.

The benefits of mixing your own are:

 you can combine the different types of soil that all of your plants need (acidic...)
 you can mix as much or as little as you need of all the different types (for indoor plants, outdoor
planters etc)
 you save money (if you only have two African violets on your windowsill it's not a big deal to
buy a little baggy of potting soil but in case of needing soil for outdoor planters, raised beds and
veggie garden patch it will make a big difference to the old wallet)
  you know exactly what is in your mix
 you can even go organic

Specific to Organic growing mediums

***Remember that if you’re making your own organic potting mix, you will need to check out all the
individual ingredients for their organic acceptability. Check the label or ask the supplier to be sure. It
may come as a surprise when you find out that not all peat moss and/or limestone are sold purely
organic. Some companies treat them with materials such as anti-caking agents etc. *** (All things
that want to be called "Organic" such as seedlings, transplants and potted plants require the use of a
medium that meets organic standards which are set by the various Organic/Agricultural Agencies of
the different countries)
Green thumbs and all!

Lets get down to the dirty, so to say!

As the number of your plants increase, you might want to consider and concoct your own blend so
as to make sure that each plant has its feet (roots) buried in the kind of soil that is best suited to its
species. The trick to making your own growing medium/potting soil is to make sure that your
concoction provides your plant roots with the right proportions of water, of air and of nutrients.
If you are using soil from a farm other then your garden or your friendly neighborhood garden center
consider solarizing the soil if you think there could be any unwanted seed matter or soil-borne
diseases in it. (The dirt from good old Joe's farm up the road might be super stuff and free but he's
bordering on the forest that is filled with poison ivy.... so are you sure you want to take a chance and
bring that into your new garden patch?) With other words free isn't always free. It doesn't mean you
shouldn't use Joe's dirt... it just means that you will need do an extra procedure or step before you
mix your super blend (just to be on the safe side).
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How to solarize or 'cook' your Soil!

The easiest way to rid your soil of weeds, pests and diseases without harmful chemicals is to
solarize it. You use the heat of the hot summer to kill harmful organisms and seeds that could be
hiding in the soil.
Here is how:

Combine all your ingredients and with a spade keep turning the soil around and around until it is well
blended. Depending on how much of the soil blend you're making, either mix it in the wheelbarrow or
if you're mixing a big bunch use a strong tarp. Spread all the ingredients on top of each other then
with the help of a couple of friends grab one side of the tarp at a time and keep rolling the soil back
and forth until it's a well blended mixture.
This would be the time that you remedy the soil that is either too compacted with clay or too sandy.
By adding homemade compost, manure, shredded wood products or organic materials, such as
leafs and or grass clippings, you can fix any soil to become fabulous growing medium. (however I'm
jumping ahead here, more on this once we start discussing the 'recipes')

To quick solarize or cook your newly mixed blend spread it onto a tarp in the sunniest spot of your
yard about two three inches thick (use a location that is out of the way and not needed for about 2-3
weeks, the sunnier the location the better). Now using the garden hose thoroughly wet the soil. It is
necessary that the soil be really wet as the water is the agent throughout or within the soil that gets
heated by the sun and thus kills pests, seeds or spores that could be present in the blend.)
Once its all nice and evenly wet cover the dirt with a single sheet of clear plastic. (Plastic that's
between 2 to 4 mm thickness works best).
The next step is an important one. Roll the edges of the tarp and plastic sheeting together on all four
sides securely and hold it all in place by either placing bricks or extra dirt around the edges so no
heat can escape out the sides. Depending on the weather and the heat that you have building up
within your micro climate, the mix could be cooked out within 2-3 weeks however the longer the
plastic cover stays on, the better the chances that the non-desirables will be exterminated from your
blend. You are now ready to use your soil anywhere safe in the knowledge that you have cleaned
out your soil without any bits of chemicals and have done so with the power of the sun. Save the tarp
and sheeting to use again and again.

Sand:
Sand is the least expensive and most readily available larger-particle material that you can add to
top your planting medium. It is also neutral on the pH scale and gives no food value for plants... so
why add it at all ? you ask...well a certain amount of sand in a growing mix can make all the
difference as it adds air spaces to the potting mix. As all living things need air it is one of the
important components of good soil. Use a coarse sand or builder's sand. A fine sand makes a
denser mix as it tends to fill in the spaces in between all the other ingredients.

One other benefit of sand in potting soil is that sand is much heavier than any other ingredients thus
the added weight is good for planters filled with tall and top-heavy plants.

Compost:
Compost is the most common potting-mix ingredient. Because it can be made, even on a small scale
in a home garden setting or on a farm. It is the cheapest component of the 'home brewed potting
mix'. Compost holds the water well and provides great many nutrients to plants and while most
compost will have adequate amounts of phosphate, potash etc., nitrogen is an important element
that needs to be checked or managed.

The only drawback with compost is that it needs time to get ready (in most cases more then six
months) and if the circumstances of building a proper compost pile are not followed then it could do
more harm then good to have it added into the potting soil blend. To produce a good compost is not
difficult, but it does require a variety of clean, organically acceptable components. Such as kitchen
and garden waste, animal manures and bedding etc. All of these can be combined to make a
balanced, in most ways high-quality compost. If you need a quick refresher course on how to make
compost you could check out this hub==> http://hubpages.com/hub/Making-and-Using-Compost

***Organic amendments such as rock phosphate can be added during the composting process to
increase nutrient content. If additional nitrogen is needed then protein-rich sources such as alfalfa
can be added.

Compost is rarely used alone as a potting medium and 'Gardening Gurus' recommend that about a
25 to 40% compost content in potting mixes is just right. However if you're getting a section of the
garden ready for the bigger, larger veggies (cauliflower, broccoli, jack-o-lantern pumpkins, squash
etc.) then a soil blend that includes up to 50% compost is best.

Peat Moss:
Peat moss is the most common soilless medium used in growing blends. It is widely available and
relatively inexpensive. Peat moss is a very stable organic material that holds a great deal of water
and air and decomposes slowly. Important to remember is that peat moss is high on the acidic list
(pH 3.5 to 4.0) and usually needs to be balanced out with limestone. The lighter-colored the peat
moss is, the younger it is and provides better air space and water absorption. (the deeper down in
the peat bog the peat moss is pulled from the darker and older it is)

Limestone:
What is limestone?

Well, when a gardener talks about 'lime' or 'limestone', he/she is talking about calcium carbonate.
Limestone is a sedimentary rock composed largely of the mineral calcite (calcium carbonate:
CaCO3). It is composed of numerous substances that humanity has been using for many, many
years, history shows even before the pyramids were built.

Limestone is run through a variety of processes which separate the many parts. One of these parts
once crushed to sand-size or smaller particles is widely used in soil as an acid neutralizing agent.
This has been the material used for treating acidic soils on farms throughout the world for centuries.

***Remember that true lime is highly caustic.***

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pH !!!!!
What is pH level stand for?

You the chemists will recognize that the symbol stands for 'Negative logarithm of hydrogen ion
concentration' For the rest of the world, pH is a measure of the acidity 'sourness' or alkalinity
'sweetness' of the soil.
The scale ranges from 1 to 14, but few soils are more acidic that 5 or more alkaline than 9.

A pH of 7 is perfectly neutral, but most plants grow best when the pH is a slightly acidic between 6.5.
In areas with low rainfall the soil tends to be more alkaline and areas with high rainfall the soil is
usually acidic. Simple to understand...rainfall slow by slow washes the calcium from the soil thus
changing the pH levels.
To learn all about your soil you can either buy a soil testing kit or send a sample off to get tested by
the agricultural agencies.
However until you get a testing kit or the results back here are two simple tests that you can try.
These will indicate if your soil is too alkaline or too acidic.

-Collect a tablespoon of your garden soil and add 1/2 teaspoon of pickling vinegar if it fizzes, your
soil has a pH level that is greater than 7.5.
-Add a 1/2 teaspoon of water to a tablespoon of your garden soil let it sit for a few minutes and once
the water has been totally absorbed sprinkle it with a 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda, if it fizzes your
soil has a pH level that is less than 5.0.

Perlite!
Perlite looks like small little styro-foam balls but it is volcanic rock particles. When heated it expands
and becomes a light-weight porous white material that does not break apart easily and is pH-neutral.

Perlite increases air space and improves water drainage when it's added to soil. It holds up to four
times its weight in water but does not get soggy.

Needed equipment to make your own growing medium/potting soil !

 wheelbarrow==> good to have as a mixing container
 large heavy duty tarp==> good for mixing large amounts of soil blends
 water hose
 water
 clear plastic sheeting (for solarizing)
 large plastic containers or feed sacks (for storing unused blends) large plastic garbage cans
with lids are great or large buckets also with lids
 large sifter or screen ==> old window frame with 1/4" wire mesh stapled to it work perfectly
great

Vermiculite
Vermiculite is a mineral that is expanded in a furnace, forming a lightweight aggregate. Vermiculite
holds air, water and fertilizer into a potting mix. It contains calcium and magnesium traces and has
an almost neutral pH level.
The Vermiculite that is readily available to gardeners comes in a few grades. The medium grade is
the most versatile because it can be used for starting seedlings and can also be mixed into soil
blends that are suitable for older or established plants.
Zsuzsy's tried and tested recipes!
1. All purpose mix: can be used everywhere outside, in garden beds, raised flower beds etc. (used
as basis for other mixes further down the page)

 1/3 mature compost screened

 1/3 garden topsoil
 1/3 sharp sand
2. Seedling starter mix:

 2 parts compost screened

 2 parts peat moss, pre-wet
 1 part vermiculite, pre-wet
  1/2 part sand
3. Planters and hanging pots:

 4 parts all purpose mix (#1)

 2 part peat moss
 1 part perlite or vermiculite
4. Mix for rooted cuttings:

 1 part all purpose mix (#1)

 1 part sand
 1 part vermiculite
5. Mix for acid loving plants: ==> Azaleas, gardenias, blueberries etc.

 2 parts all purpose mix (#1)

 3 parts peat moss pre-wet
 1 part sheep or cow manure, 2 season aged or readily available in bags at the gardening
centers
 1 part sand
6. Mix for flower beds: ==> Lavendar, Geraniums, Chrysanthemums, Fuchsias etc.

 2 parts all purpose mix (#1)

 1 part sand
 1/2 part peat moss pre-wet
 1 part sheep or cow manure
 1 lb of bone meal to each bushel of mix
7. Heavy Veggie plot mix: (cauliflower, broccoli, squash, jack-o-lantern pumpkins etc.)

 3 parts all purpose mix (#1)

 1 part compost
 1 part cow or sheep manure, 1 year + aged or the readily available in bags at the gardening
centers
 1 part vermi-compost (if available)
8. Potting mixture for cactus and succulents: (Hens and Chicks, Sedum telephium etc.)

 2 parts all purpose mix (#1)

 2 parts sand
 1 part perlite
 1 lb bone meal per bushel of mix
 1 lb lime per bushel of mix
9. In-house potting soil: (works super well)

 1 part all purpose mix (#1)

  1 part sand
 1 cup Epsom salt per 1/2 bushel of mix
 2 -3 cups coffee grounds
 12 dried and crushed eggshells
10. Potting mix for trees and bushes:

 3 parts all purpose mix (#1)

 1 part sand
 1 part vermiculite
 1 part perlite
 1lb bone meal per bushel of mix
 12-18 dried and crushed eggshells
You do not have to have all the different types of soil It does take time but once the gardening bug
bites you in the 'behind' you will eventually work at each and every section of your garden and yard.

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 HOW TO SUCCESSFULLY CHOOSE
GROWING MEDIA
Container production has been expanding in recent years. Choosing the optimal growing media
(substrate) requires special consideration, because it is much more than just an anchor for the plant:
it can be crucial to successful crop.

A balance between air content and available water is one of the most important requirements of a
good growing media.

There are many advantages to using growing media:

 High yields can be achieved on a limited area

 Better control over Irrigation and fertilization
 Easier disinfection
 Recycling of drainage water is possible
 Growing media can be used as an alternative to an inadequate soil.
However, growing media also have some disadvantages, such as:
 Nutrient holding capacity of growing media is low
 Buffer capacity is low and therefore changes are rapid

WHAT IS A GOOD GROWING MEDIA?

Plant roots require air for oxygen supply and gas exchange, and therefore, aeration is critical for
optimum plant development. Lack of adequate aeration results in poor plant growth, susceptibility to
diseases and nutrient deficiencies.

Ideal growing media provides the plant with an adequate water supply and at the same time contain
enough air to allow gas exchange in the root system.

Good growing media are also characterized by high hydraulic conductivity, i.e. ability to transmit
water.

Another important property is the growing media's weight: it should be light weight for easy and less
expensive transport and handling. But it should also be heavy enough to provide physical support to
the plant.
 SELECTING THE BEST GROWING MEDIA FOR
YOUR PRODUCTION SYSTEM
It may be surprising, but in order to choose the best growing media, the first thing you should
consider is the production system's specifications.

These include:
 The irrigation technique and set up - drippers density and discharge
 Container size and container shape.
These factors and the growing media must be compatible in order to obtain uniform distribution of
the irrigation water and effective irrigation.

SIZE AND SHAPE OF THE CONTAINERS

It was mentioned above that the size and shape of the containers, in which the growing media is
placed, determine the amount of water that the media hold.

Let's take a look at the following container shapes:

A B C D

All containers are of the same volume, and are filled with the same growing media. The blue area
represents water. Since it is the same media, the water reaches the same height in each of the
containers.
Moreover, the same water content in % is measured at each height (according to the water
retention curve of this media). But because of the different shapes, the actual amount of water is
different in each container.

This results in a different water/air ratio in each container and in different irrigation management.

Irrigation frequency and amount of water applied in each irrigation are determined by the available
water content of the growing media and by the container shape and size.

For example, one irrigation cycle a day is not enough, if the daily water consumption of the plant is
higher than the amount of available water in the media.