Gathers A soft, feminine garment line is often shaped with gathers. They may be found al waistlines, cuffs, yokes, necklines, or sleeve caps. Soft and sheer fabrics produce a draped look when gathered; crisp fabrics create a billowy effec. Tae COMPLETE PHOTO GUIDE To sEKIMG Gothers siart with two sltching lines ‘on a long piece of fabric. The sitch- ing lines are then pulled at each end to draw up the fabric, Finally the ‘gathered piece is sewn to @ shorter length of fabric ‘The stich length for gathering is longer than for ordinary sewing. Use a sich length of 6 to 8 stiches per inch (2.5 em) for mediumwveigh! fob ries. For soft or sheer fabrics, vse 8 0 10 sltches per inch (2.5 em). Ex periment with the fabric to see which stitch length gathers best. A long sftch helps to draw up the fabric, but a shorter stich gives more con- trol when adjusting gathers. Before you stitch, loosen the ypper thread tension. The bobbin sitching is pulled to draw up the gathers, and @ looser tension makes this Ithe fabric is heavy or si, use heavy-duty thread in the bobbin. A contrasting color in the bobbin also helps distinguish it from the upper thread,How te Sew Basic Gathers QD Stitch scont i" (1.5 en) from raw edge on right side oF fabric, sarting and ending ot seamine, Loosen Upper tension and lengthen sfitches appropriate to fabric. Sitch @ second row in seam allowance, ¥" (6 mm) away from first row. This double row of siching gives better contol in gathering than a singe row. QOSstiteh, gathored side up, ust outside gathering lines Adjust gathers between pins 28 you sich, Hold gathers taut with fingers on both sides of needle to keep gathers even, Pin sched edge to cot responding gorment section, ‘igh sides together, at seams, notches, center lines, and oth- er markings. Fabric will droop between pins. IF there are no markings t guide you, divide both edges into quarters and pinout fulness evenly (@)reneantelenenean of any seams thot have been sevin into the sithing line, trimming off corners at a diagonal @ Pull both bobbin threads from one end, sliding fabric along thread to gather When half the gathered section fits he straight edge, secure bobbin threads by twisting in a figure eight ‘round pin. Pull bobbin threads from other end to gather remaining half @rxsondma con wrong side, using tip of ron, Then open out garment cond press seam inthe desired direction: loward gathers for pulfy look, toward gorment for smoother look © Pin gathers in place at equent intervals, Disrbule gathers evenly between pins. Reset stitch length and ten sion for regular sewing © Press into guhers wih polit fron on righ se of eel etenel re een ate cross gathec: his wll flatten them. Sewing Techies 128@« Gathering with Elastic Gathers formed with elas offer com: fortable and easy fit This echnique ‘ensures uniform gathers and creates shape that is relaxed and not as close to the body as ober shopebuilders Elastic can be sched direcly to the garment or inserted in a casing. A casing is @ tunnel for elostc, created How to Sew Stitched Elastic eld elastic and fabric ne fourths. Mark foldlines of elastic ane garment wi pins Tae COMPLETE PHOTO GUIDE To sEKIMG with a tumedunder edge or with bias tape stitched to the fabric. Choose an clastic that is suitable tothe sewing fechnique and area ofthe garment where its used (poge 33) Elastic in a casing can be any width. Use a frm, braided, or nonoll elastic. Braided elastic has lengthwise ribs, and narcows when stretched Pin elastic to wrong side of ‘garment, matching marking pins Leave 1" (1.3 cm seam allowance at each end of elastic. Stitched elastic calls for woven or knitied elastics which are sof, strong, and comfortable to wear next fo the skin. On short areas such edges, itis easiest to apply the elastic while the gar ment section is flat. Ala waistline, overlap the ends ofthe elastic and sftch to form a circle before pinning to the garment Cut elastic the length recommended by the pattern. This length includes © seam allowance. To add elastic when the patiern does not call for it, cul the elastic slighty shorter than the body meosurement plus seam allowance. Allow 1" (2.5 em) extra for a stitched elastic seam, 4° (1.3 cm) extra for overlapping elastic ina easing @)Stiteh elastic to fabric, stretching clastic between pins, with one hand behind needle and other hand at next pin. Apply with a zigzag, mul stich zigzag, or two rows of straight stiching, one along each edge.