Hop

to it!

Felt A l
CuTtrey aBnoeww
ue
techniq

eaSy stItch
VintaGe styLe
Mix rainbow stripes with granny trebles
 Are you ready for a bit of crochet magic? This issue
we’re escaping into a pastel-coloured world of
unicorns, rainbows and the most beautiful stitches.
There’s cute amigurumi to hook, the next mandala in
our new series and a seriously covetable cardigan.
Plus, have a go at felting and get cosy with cables,
socks and a statement cowl. Enchanting.
 Patel yan, p76
ISSUE FIFTY-FOUR

CONTENTS

32
GraNny
Chic

WelCome to
DreAmLand
P16

Psste thi
We lov e
l
vintage-sty e fun and ColOuRful DesIgns Y0U’ll L0ve
ett
colou pal 14 AMIGURUMI UNICORN
16 PASTEL BEDROOM MAKES
55 HOOK TO HOOK CHALLENGE
63 TEXTURED ACCESSORIES
32 GRANNY CARDIGAN 66 RAINBOW BLANKET
41 COWL BY VICKIE HOWELL 72 SLIPPER SOCKS
45 AMIGURUMI RABBIT 83 FELTED BOWL
49 THE BIG KNIT HATS 95 MAKE A MANDALA
53 CROCHET POMPOM

Ami u u i ove, p11

win
check out ou
Tun to page 55 and you could Fo toaty
-
new deigne challenge toe, p72
win Louia Ha di ng yan!
 45

neW texTure 63
41
53 Find me
on page 16

trY felTing 80

66
Good ReaDs how to...
09 HOOKED 76 YARN REVIEWS
38 STEPHANIE LAU’S JOURNAL Our pick of pretty pastels
Grow your confidence with cables 80 THE WORKSHOP
60 PROFILE: SARAH ZIMMERMAN Learn all about felting
Behind Repeat Crafter Me 87 THE GUIDE
62 LEARN CROCHET SLANG Handy step-by-steps for you
78 SHOW US YOURS!
98 MY HOOKY TREASURE

Februay
LY
mandala, p95 SPARK RN
UNICO
P14
 Over the rainbow
In case you hadn’t noticed, we’re obsessed with all
things unicorn this issue! Why shouldn’t we have
fun with colour and hook projects that make us
smile? Ilaria’s sparkly unicorn (p14) is a favourite
for me, of course, but I’ve also got a soft spot for
the granny treble cardi on page 32. If you’ve never
crocheted a garment before, this is a brilliant one
to start with. Ooh, and make sure you check out
the next mandala in our series – Lucy Croft has
done wonders bringing our February calendar
illustration to life with love hearts (p95).
ConTrIbuTors
Hip hip hooray for everyone who pitched in...
“WE’R E EXTR EME ‘MAN CRAFTERS’
WITH A PASS ION FOR COLOU R.”
BOYS AND BUNTING
Creative blogging duo Matt and Dennis have
stitched a showstopping starry lampshade as
part of our dreamy pastel collection this issue.
Flip across to page 21 to check it out.
“AT THE MOMENT I’M WORKI NG ON
A SERIES OF JUNGLE ANIMA LS.”
TRACY COLDWELL
Tracy’s something of an amigurumi specialist
and we love that her designs are packed with
personality. Hop over to page 45 to find her
adorable rabbit toy. Spring here we come.
OTHER CONTRIBUTORS
Vita Apala, Kirsten Ballering, Ilaria Caliri, Lucy Croft, Hannah Cross, Judy Darley,
Helen Dorritt, Anne Egan, Maaike von Koert, Stephanie Lau, Fran Morgan,
Jenny Reid, Becky Skuse, Kath Webber, Sarah Zimmerman
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facebook.com/simplycrochetmag twitter.com/SimplyCrochet_
“I’VE JUST FINISHED CROCHETING
FLOWERS FOR A WEDDING.”
REBECCA ALDRIDGE
Who better to turn to for a super-cute cloud
make than cloud-obsessed designer Rebecca?
She’s responsible for the oh-so sleepy pyjama
case on page 16. It’s just perfect.
“I’M CU RRE NTLY CRO CHETIN
A CHU NKY SHAWL .” G
VICKIE HOWELL
Have you seen top US author and hookster
Vickie’s gorgeous new Deramores yarns? She
has designed a cosy cowl just for us using her
Mod Wool. Find the pattern on page 41.
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From the makers of

 Ideas Inspiration Accessories Websites Events Stuff

Magical mystery
New from House of Wonderland (www.how-store.com) is a mystery charm club, where you’ll receive a special
enamel charm that’s based on the month’s theme. The crochet launch theme gets a big thumbs-up from us, where
lucky recipients will get this super-cute ‘Hooker for life’ charm for just £6. Clip it on a bracelet, necklace or zipper or
use it as a stitch marker – the choice is yours. But be quick, as there’s only a limited number available!

Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com WWW.SIMPLYSCROCHETMAG.COM 9

 TREND
W
ALERT
Have you heard
of planned colour
pooling? This
technique has
been causing a bit
of a buzz in the
crochet world. You
might have seen
some impressive,
plaid-style hooky
creations popping
up in your social
media feeds. In a

SAY HELLO TO HYGGE

nutshell, it's all
about calculating
the length of the
colour repeats in The Scheepjes 2017 crochet-along kicks off
variegated yarn this month and the project is a real gem.

MADE BY and using that data

to create regular
geometic patterns.
Have you seen it? Danish hookster Kirsten
Ballering (www.haakmaarraak.nl) has
designed Hygge, a Scandinavian-inspired
Learn how to use
MARINA this colourwork
wrap brimming with delicious detail. There
are bobbles, surface crochet and even

T
method next issue!
hese swoonsome skeins are by fibre
artist Marina Skua. She uses natural
fibres to produce small batches of yarn
full of character and rich in colour. Imperium,
Wave Crest and Loss (pictured) are our faves.
The hand-spun skeins are one-offs, but
the shop is frequently updated with new
colours. Head to www.marinaskua.com
delicate cross stitching. The whole thing's
hooked in the ever-popular Stonewashed
yarn by Scheepjes and their Catona cotton.
There are three glorious Hygge kits to choose
from – Rainbow (pictured), Jewel and Pastel.
Patterns are available in UK and US terms,
Swedish and Dutch, and there'll be video
tutorials, too. Visit www.scheepjes.com for
further details and flip to page 66 to see
Kirsten's beautiful rainbow blanket design.

New patterns

We Love...
Designers and The Crochet Circle
podcasters Lynne Rowe and Fay
Dashper-Hughes have teamed up to
produce a really unique pattern
collection. Take Two features 8 stylish
accessories, four by Lynne and four by
Fay. The twist is, each of the patterns was
then interpreted by the other designer to
form a fresh design using yarn from their
stash. The Phasian blanket by Lynne and
the Auchincuive cowl by Fay are our
favourites. As well as encouraging
stashbusting, this booklet showcases
beautiful British-spun wool. It'll inspire
you to get creative with your yarn
substitutions and play with colour. Pop
over to www.lynnerowethewoolnest.
etsy.com to download it now for £10.03.

10 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

mini profile
SUPER CUTE
DESIGN
We had a good old chinwag
with Jennifer Santos, the Sweden-based
amigurumi stitcher behind Super Cute
Design. After spotting her bright and oh-so
smiley creations on Instagram, we just had
to find out more about them.
She told us: “I have always loved creating
stuff. Crochet enables me to live out my
creativity – I love that you can have an idea of
what you want to make and then be able to
create it with just a hook and some yarn.
Even though most of the time it doesn't
come out quite as I planned, I really enjoy the
process of creating and I DO love yarn!
I make and sell amigurumi patterns. As I
have a huge sweetooth and am such a sucker
for cute and colourful stuff, I make lots of
yummy rainbow things with happy faces.
I believe that creative inspiration can be
found everywhere! I've found inspiration
X
X sale date of this issue. There are no cash alternatives. Three winning
Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
HOOKED
INSPIRING
BOOKS
SLIPPERS FOR
THE FAMILY
LEISURE ARTS
(£6.99, Leisure Arts)
Everyone deserves cosy
toes so this fab collection
is ideal for any family.
There are 10 colourful,
texture-filled designs to fit a variety of feet, from
babies, toddlers and children to teenagers,
women and men. Some patterns include six
sizes so you can make matching slippers for your
family! Plus, there are bonus online tutorials.
RAINBOW
CROCHETED
BLANKETS
AMANDA PERKINS
(£12.99, Search Press)
before from my children, from cartoons, even Bringing all her
from the grocery store. Ha ha! expertise with colour
My favourite crochet make? I tend to like and dyeing yarns,
the thing I made most recently the best! If I Amanda Perkins has
had to choose just one thing, I think it would created a collection of motifs to create 10 rainbow
have to be my amigurumi gingerbread men." blankets. The starting chapter includes some
You can see Jennifer's latest creations on colour theory, followed by blanket patterns, each
Instagram @supercutedesign and buy patter s with a chart, diagrams and colour variation ideas.
at www.supercutedesignshop.etsy.co
BASKETS FOR ALL
VARIOUS DESIGNERS
(£6.99, Annie's)
Whether it’s for storage,
display or as a gift, there
are 14 brilliant basket
designs to choose from
in this pattern book.
There are interesting
colour patterns and stitches to inspire you,
including checks, lacework, chevron stripes
SUBS STARS! X and v-shapes, plus an adorable owl basket.
Each design includes charts as well as written
Every month, three subscribers win a instructions and most come in different sizes.
prize as a thank you for their loyalty to
Simply Crochet. This month, the winners POMPOM CRAFTS
(below) will each receive this Stylecraft ALISON HOWARD
blanket yarn and pattern set. (£5.99, GMC Books)
Mrs Sheila Leete, Glossop
Mrs K.B. Langford, Stockport
Mrs Gail Holmes, King's Lynn
X Crafting pompoms has
become a bit of an art form
in its own right. This
great-value book offers
the perfect place to start
Immediate Media Company, publishers of Simply Crochet, Subs Stars
giveaway terms and conditions. Prizes were dispatched before the on pompom crafts with 17 achievable projects,
entries will be chosen at random from all current subscribers. The
draw is final and no correspondence will be entered into.
including cute characters and home makes. As
well as yarn, you’ll also need felt, glue and pipe
cleaners to add the finishing touches.
 FOLD HERE
W Crafty print, neon
details and a fluffy
pompom? You've
found your new
project pouch. This
beauty from Sparrow
+ Wolf (www.
sparrowandwolf.
co.uk) is yours for £18.
It's lined with neon
fabric too and is
roomy enough for
stashing hooks and
notions or your latest
win on-the-go make. Take
your pick from three
different sizes and
three origami prints.
If you're smitten wit Awards
A GRAND DAY OUT this, check out

C
alling all West Country crafters! The
Craft4Crafters spring show is being
held from 6-8 April at the Bath and West
Showground in Somerset, with exhibitors
from the world of yarn, fabric and more. You’ll
find over 100 local and national businesses
selling their wares, plus there’s the chance to
join in workshops and demos. Sound good?
We’ve got 10 pairs of tickets to give away. Visit
http://competition.immediate.co.uk/sc54show
ANDTHEWINNERIS…
Sparrow + Wolf's
matching cushions
and notebooks. Our new British Craft Awards celebrate
the best of the UK's creative talent, and
the 2017 winners will be announced at
the CHSI Stitches industry event later this
month. There were almost 6000 votes
cast for nominees in the yarn craft
categories, so thanks to those who shared
their thoughts. Curious about who'll get a
gong? To see if your favourite designers,
bloggers, suppliers and yarnies win big,
see www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk

AMIGURUMI

Wisdom
teeth
We love finding organic and
sustainable craft items. Step
new yarn forward BruDiy, which
produces eco-friendly

WooLly FanTasy crochet goodies. These

cute teeth, baby toys
Designer Jenny King has her own line of yarn, containing a bag of
and she’s launched a new addition. Fantasy fragrant, soothing herbs, will
has a black cotton core wrapped with hints help a little one sleep when they
of pink, lime and mauve, giving a textured start cutting their pearly whites.
effect. To celebrate the arrival of Fantasy, Made with 100% organic
Jenny's giving away a free pattern with each bamboo yarn, and available in
order – choose from a cardigan, vest and three designs, guarantee sweet
more. While she's based in Australia, with a slumber by buying one for £13.94
50g ball retailing at AUD6.60, she does ship at www.brudiy.etsy.com
to the UK. www.jennykingdesigns.com

12 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
 HOOKED

5 FAB FINDS
Unicorns and rainbows
FABULOUS FIBRES
You’ll definitely want to schedule a trip
Fanciful treats to satisfy
your inner dreamer.
to Wonderwool Wales this year. Taking
place from 22-23 April at the Royal Welsh
Showground in Builth Wells, it’s a joyous
celebration of wool and natural fibres,
with the chance to learn new skills,
meet yarn producers and top up your
stash with artisan yarns. You can join
in a huge range of workshops through
the Woolschool programme, featuring
fantastic felting, perfect plying and
scintillating spinning. There’s also the
yarn world’s take on the catwalk, The
Sheepwalk, plus demonstrations, have-
1
IF I WAS A UNICORN
a-go sessions and hands-on activities. For hand-dyed yarns fit for a fairy tale, The
To check out the line-up and buy tickets, Wool Kitchen is top notch. Their aptly-named
head to www.wonderwoolwales.co.uk 'If I Was a Unicorn' British aran weight yarn is
what we've been fantasizing about lately. Go
shopping at www.thewoolkitchen.etsy.com

2 SUNNY SIDE
Kate Bruning's
designs all seem to
out & about have a whisper of

Skills, shows
magic about them.
Find this cushion

drEaminG big trio in issue 47. Turn

& events
to p94 for details of
our back issues.
Napkins may have been good enough
for JK Rowling, but our note-taking
PUT A RING ON IT
What better warden
3
tastes are a little more refined. You to guard your gems
can’t jot down million-dollar ideas than a unicorn? It's
just anywhere. Pick up this Dreams the gold horn and
and Schemes notebook for £5 at stars that clinch it for
www.gsashop.co.uk. All purchases us. Grab this ceramic
support the Glasgow School of Art. ring dish from www.
MAR 2-5 Spring Knitting & Stitching Show rigbyandmac.com
£13, Olympia, London VERY STRIKING
www.theknittingandstitchingshow.com 4 Pretty pastels and
metallics are a
MAR 4 Experimental Crochet Workshop winning combo
£35, Jane Bowler Studio, Stratford, London whatever the
www.janebowler.co.uk weather. Be bold
with a pink clutch
MAR 10-11 Edinburgh Yarn Festival bag from www.
tkmaxx.com
£TBC, Corn Exchange, www.edinyarnfest.com
ESSENTIAL GLITZ
MAR 16 Beginners Crochet Is it really a party if
£25, Stitched By You, Alton there's no confetti?
www.stitchedbyyou.co.uk Hot foot it to www.
candleandcake.
MAR25 Easter Crochet for Beginners co.uk to get stocked
up. The Unicorn Mix
£39.99, Folly Lodge Studio, Surrey
Tissue Confetti is
www.follylodgestudio.co.uk
hard to beat. 5
Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com WWW.SIMPLYSCROCHETMAG.COM 13
Capture a sprinkling of magic and sparkle with this
super-cute unicorn by Ilaria Caliri. Don’t stop believing.

Bring the mythical to life. This adorable
EASY amigurumi design includes a glittery horn
PEASY and curly rainbow mane and tail. Dreamy.
DK 4MM
WEIGHT HOOK
NOTES
The pattern is worked using the amigurumi
method. Work in a continuous spiral without
YOU WILL NEED closing off the round with a ss. It may help
Q Yarn from your free kit, or to use a stitch marker in the first stitch of
oddments of DK yarn in white, each round, moving it up as you work. All
rainbow shades and gold the pieces are worked separately and then
Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook sewn onto the body.
Q Safety eyes
Q Stitch markers HEAD
Q Toy stuffing With white, make a magic loop.
Rnd 1 Ch1 (does not count as st
MEASUREMENTS throughout), 6dc into the loop. [6 sts]
15cm (6in) tall and 12cm (4¾in) long Rnd 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Rnds 3-4 Dc in each st around.
ABBREVIATIONS Rnd 5 (2dc in next st, 1dc) 6 times. [18 sts]
For a full list, see page 92 Rnd 6 3dc, (2dc in next st, 2dc) 3 times, 6dc.
[21 sts]
Rnd 7 3dc, (2dc in next st, 3dc) 3 times, 6dc.
[24 sts]
Rnd 8 3dc, (2dc in next st, 4dc) 3 times, 6dc.
[27 sts]
Rnds 9-13 Dc in each st around.
Secure eyes between Rnds 7 and 8, approx
8 sts apart. Stuff Head with toy stuffing and
continue stuffing as you go.
Rnd 14 (7dc, dc2tog) 3 times. [24 sts]
Rnd 15 (2dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [18 sts]
Rnd 16 (1dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [12 sts]
Rnd 17 (Dc2tog) 6 times. [6 sts]
Fasten off and weave in ends.
EARS (MAKE 2)
With white, ch4.
Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook and in
each ch to end, turn. [3 sts]
Row 2 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn.
Row 3 Ch1, skip first st, 2dc, turn. [2 sts]
Row 4 Ch1, skip first st, 1dc. [1 st]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing Ears to
the Head between Rnds 13 and 14.
HORN
With gold, ch7.
Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook and in
each ch to end, turn. [6 sts]
Row 2 Ch1, skip first st, 5dc, turn. [5 sts]
Row 3 Ch1, skip first st, 4dc, turn. [4 sts]
Row 4 Ch1, skip first st, 3dc, turn. [3 sts]
Row 5 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn.
Row 6 Ch1, skip first st, 2dc, turn. [2 sts]
Row 7 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. [2 sts]
Row 8 Ch1, skip first st, 1dc, turn. [1 st]
Simply untwist the rainbow yarn strands to Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
create the unicorn’s crinkly mane and tail. Fold piece in half and sew sides tog, then
Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
Amigurumi unicorn
sew to Head between Rnds 9 and 11.
BODY
With white, make a magic loop.
Rnd 1 Ch1, 6dc into the loop. [6 sts]
Rnd 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Rnd 3 (2dc in next st, 1dc) 6 times. [18 sts]
Rnds 4-8 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 9 (5dc, 2dc in next st) 3 times. [21 sts]
Rnd 10 (6dc, 2dc in next st) 3 times. [24 sts]
Rnds 11-13 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 14 (2dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [18 sts]
Stuff Body with toy stuffing and continue
stuffing as you go.
Rnd 15 (1dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [12 sts]
Rnd 16 (Dc2tog) 6 times. [6 sts]
Fasten off and weave in ends.
NECK
With white, ch8, ss in first ch to join into a
ring.
Rnd 1 Ch1, dc in each ch around. [8 sts]
Rnds 2 Dc in each st around.
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing Neck to
Head between Rnds 9 and 11.
Stuff with toy stuffing, then sew to Body
between Rnds 3 and 5.
FORELEG (MAKE 2)
With white, make a magic loop.
Rnd 1 Ch1, 6dc into the loop. [6 sts]
Rnds 2-8 Dc in each st around. Stuff lightly.
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing Legs to
Body between Rnds 4 and 5.
HIND LEGS (MAKE 2)
With white, make a magic loop.
Rnd 1 Ch1, 6dc into the loop. [6 sts]
Rnds 2-7 Dc in each dc around. Stuff lightly.
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing Legs to
Body between Rnds 12 and 13.
MANE AND TAIL
Cut rainbow yarns in half and in half again.
You will have 4 pieces of each colour
(approx 25cm each). Use 2 pieces of each
colour for Mane and 2 for Tail. For Mane, fold
each piece in half and knot it to Head like a
fringe; use a crochet hook to pull loop of
yarn through, and put ends of yarn through
loop. Secure them behind Horn, using 2
pieces for each rnd starting from back of
Horn for 6 rnds. Create the curl effect by
splitting yarn into strands; they will be
naturally curly. For tail, use a leftover piece
of white, and knot all 12 coloured pieces tog
in the middle as tightly as possible, leaving
an end of white for sewing to Body.
Create curl effect as for Mane.
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 15
 PASTEL IDEAS

Head in
the clouds
Dreamy makes for a bedroom or nursery in pretty pastel
cotton. Yep, it’s all unicorns and rainbows from here.
ForTy WinKs
At first glance, you’d be forgiven for thinking
this sleepy cloud was merely a cushion. Not
so. It’s a cute button-up case for tucking a pair
of favourite jammies away in during the day.
Sweet dreams are made of this.

up, up and Away

Fun to stitch and dripping with whimsy, this
statement hoop is a real work of art. The hot
air balloons are deliciously three-dimensional
and, when hung slightly away from the wall,
will twist gently on their strings.
 PASTEL IDEAS

I’m a BelIever
We’re well aware that traditionally unicorns don’t have
wings (that would be Pegasus), but we’re not going
to let that spoil our fun. These fantastical slippers are
definitely on the wacky side but they’re a must-have for
the princesses and mermaids of this world.

Over the RaiNbow

Channel your inner Cinderella and get busy tidying. This
sweet set of rainbow-topped baskets in four different
sizes will make the chore more bearable and you can
nest them neatly together when they’re empty.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 19
 PASTEL IDEAS

Hung up on you
With this handy hanger, you’ll be able to actually
see all of your jewellery and quickly grab it while
you’re getting ready. So long, nasty knots. It’ll work
just as well for organising scarves and bags, too.

TwiNkle, TwiNkle
You’ll need to hook 84 simple stars to create this
stunning stellar lampshade. It’s a showstopping
crochet constellation for your home! If you like,
you can switch up the yarn shades to match your
own décor. The sky’s the limit.

20 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
 PASTEL IDEAS
Cloud pyjama case
Rebecca Aldridge’s cute and quirky cloud
make acts as a cushion when it’s filled.
Q DROPS Muskat (100% cotton, 50g/100m),
4 balls of White (18), 1 ball of each: Light Blue
(02), Light Mint (20), Lilac (04), Peach (10), Light
Yellow (07) and Black (17)
Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook
Q Five 1.5cm (¾in) buttons
TENSION
17 sts and 20 rows to measure approx 10x10cm
(4x4in) over double crochet using a 4mm hook.
Tension is not critical but will affect finished
measurements and yarn quantities.
MEASUREMENTS
Approx 39x27cm (15¼x10¾in)
ABBREVIATIONS
Spike st Insert hook from front into
corresponding st that is 2 rows below next st,
complete as a double crochet st
CLOUD
FRONT
Using White, ch51.
Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, dc
in each of next 49 sts, turn. [50 sts]
Row 2 Ch1, 2dc in first st, dc in each st to
last st, 2dc in last st, turn. [52 sts]
Rows 3-6 As Row 2. [60 sts after Row 6]
Row 7 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn.
Row 8 As Row 2. [62 sts]
Row 9 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn.
Row 10 As Row 2. [64 sts]
22 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
Row 11 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn.
Row 12 As Row 2. [66 sts]
Rows 13-16 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn.
Row 17 As Row 2. [68 sts]
Rows 18-24 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn.
Row 25 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each st to last 2
sts, dc2tog, turn. [66 sts]
Rows 26-34 As Row 25.
[48 sts after Row 34]
Row 35-40 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn.
Rows 41-43 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each st to
end, turn. [45 sts]
Row 44 Ch1, dc in each st to last 2 sts,
dc2tog, turn. [44 sts]
Row 45 (RS) Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each st to
end, turn. [43 sts]
Row 46 Ch1, dc in each st to last 2 sts,
dc2tog, turn. [42 sts]
Row 47 (Starting row of the right-hand top
‘peak’) Ch1, dc in each of next 15 sts, turn.
[15 sts]
Row 48 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each st to last 2
sts, dc2tog, turn. [13 sts]
Rows 49-52 Repeat last row. [5 sts at end
of Row 52.]
Row 53 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in next st, dc2tog.
[3 sts]
Keep RS facing and ss along edge of
decrease rows to base of ‘peak’, which will
bring you back level with Row 47.
Row 54 Ch1, dc in each rem st from Row 46
to end, turn.
[27 sts]
Row 55 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each st to end,
turn. [26 sts]
Row 56 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each st to last 2
sts, dc2tog, turn. [24 sts]
Rep last row until there are 6 sts rem.
Fasten off.
BACK
Work Rows 1-22 as given for Front. [68 sts]
Row 23 (Button loop row – 5 in total) Ch1,
dc in each of next 20 sts, ch7, ss in same st
at base of ch-7 to form button loop, (dc in
each of next 7 sts, ch7, ss in same st at base
of ch-7) 4 times, dc in each of next 20 sts,
turn. [68 sts and 5 ch-7 button loops]
Row 24 (To create opening) Ch1, dc in each
of next 15 sts, ch38, skip next 38 sts, ss in
next st, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in
same st as ss and in each of next 14 sts,
turn. [68 sts]
Row 25 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 13
sts, dc in each ch, dc in each of next 13 sts,
dc2tog, turn. [66 sts]
Rows 26-65 As given for Rows 26 to end of
Front. Sew buttons into place above the
corresponding loops.
CHEEKS (MAKE 2)
Using Light Mint, make a magic loop.
Round 1 7dc into loop, ss to first dc to join.
[7 sts] Fasten off.
Round 2 Join Lilac to any st, ch1, 2dc in
same st, (2dc in next st) 6 times, ss to first
dc. [14 sts] Fasten off.
Round 3 Join Light Yellow to any st, ch1, dc
in same st, 2dc in next st, (dc in next st, 2dc
in next st) 6 times, ss to first dc. [21 sts]
Fasten off.
Round 4 Join Light Blue to any st, ch1, dc
in same st, dc in next st, 2dc in next st, (dc
in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next stitch) 6
times, ss to first dc. [28 sts]
Round 5 Ch1, dc in same stitch, dc in each
of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, (dc in each of
next 3 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times, ss to first
dc. [35 sts] Fasten off.
Round 6 Join Peach to any st, ch1, dc in
 same st, dc in each of next 2 sts, spike st in
next st 2 rows below, 2dc in next st, (dc in
each of next 3 sts, spike stitch in next st 2
rows below, 2dc in next st) 6 times, ss to
first dc. [42 sts] Fasten off.

FACE
Pin cheeks in place using image as a guide.
Using Black, sew sleepy eyes using back
stitch (approx 11 sts wide, 3 rows high).

TO FINISH
Block if desired. When dry, pin the 2 sides
tog. Using White, ss around the clouds to
join edges tog. Fasten off and weave in
ends. Sew buttons to opening to
correspond with button loops.

Hot air balloon hoop

Hook dreamy statement wall art for a
bedroom or nursery. By Sara Huntington.
Q DROPS Muskat (100% cotton; 50g/100m),
1 ball of each: White (18), Light Blue (02), Light
Mint (20), Lilac (04), Peach (10), Light Yellow
(07)
Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook (Baskets only)
Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Q A large embroidery hoop (54cm diameter)
Q Toy stuffing
Q Small amount of felt in coordinating colours
Q White drawing pins
MEASUREMENTS
The finished decoration measures the size of
the frame (54cm/21¼in)
Measurements for the individual elements are
given in the pattern instructions
the first rem loop (corresponding to the
last dc from Row 2).
Row 3 Working in rem loops from Row 2,
dc in each st to end, turn.
Row 4 Repeat Row 2.
Repeat (Rows 3 & 4) 3 more times in the
following colour sequence:
Light Mint
Light Blue
Lilac
Rep the whole 5-colour sequence again 3
more times. Fasten off and weave in ends.
[20 sections]
Sew sides tog to form a tube. Gather wider
end with a running st, pull closed. Stuff
balloon lightly through narrow end and
pull this partially closed with a running st
and secure.
Round 1 Dc in second ch from hook and
each ch to end, rotate to work in other side
of foundation ch and dc in each st to end.
[18 sts]
Round 2 (2dc in next st, dc in next 8 sts)
twice. [20 sts]
Round 3 Ss into first st, ch3 (counts as tr),
6tr into same st, *skip next dc, ss into next
dc, skip next dc, 7tr into next st; repeat
from * 3 more times, skip next dc, ss into
next dc, skip next dc, ss into base of beg
ch-3 to close. Fasten off.
Take a pair of Clouds, turning one of them

BALLOONS (MAKE 5) BALLOON BASKETS

Balloon and Basket are 14cm (5½in) high.
The Balloon is made from shaped sections
that are joined at the straight edge only,
and then fanned out and joined so that the
sections form a 3D shape with the join at
the core.
Using a 3.5mm hook and Light Yellow,
ch16.
Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook and in
each ch to end, turn. [15 sts]
Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st
throughout), working in bl; dc in next 3 sts,
htr in next st, tr in next 2 sts, dtr in next 2
sts, (2dtr in next st, dtr in next st,) twice, tr
in next st, htr in next st, dc in last st.
Fasten off. With same side facing, rotate
work 180 degrees so the sts from Row 2 are
on the bottom. Using Peach, rejoin yarn to
Make 5, one in each colour.
Using a 3mm hook, make a magic loop.
Work in a spiral without closing off each
round with a ss:
Round 1 6dc into loop.
Round 2 2dc into each st. [12 sts]
Round 3 Dc bl in each st around.
Rounds 4-5 Dc in each st around.
Ss into next st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Secure the Basket to the Balloon with four
evenly spaced strings approx 3cm long.
CLOUDS (MAKE 12)
Clouds measure 8x6cm (3x2¼in).
Using a 3.5mm hook and White, ch10.
Work in a spiral without closing off each
round with a ss.

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over so the shapes match. Join Light
Yellow to the first tr of any 7-tr group,
working through both Clouds to join; *dc
in next 7 tr, spike st into dc from Round 2;
rep from * four more times. Fasten off and
weave in ends. Rep using a different shade
for each edge until all Clouds are joined.
TO MAKE UP
Using the inside section of the frame,
measure and mark 5 evenly spaced points
on the top and corresponding marks on
the bottom. These indicate where to
secure the strings. Drill a small hole though
the centre of the inside frame to
correspond with the marks.
Twisting two lengths of yarn tog, secure
them through a bottom hole and thread
the end onto a needle. Pass the needle
through the centre of a Cloud, a Basket and
Balloon, and for the centre string only,
another Cloud. Pull string very tight so it is
taut vertically across the frame and secure
through the corresponding top hole.
Position the Balloons and Clouds by
putting some fabric glue around that
section of the string and sliding into
position. Lightly stuff the Basket and glue a
circle of felt on the top cutting a slit to fit
around the string. Rep four more times
until you have 5 vertical strings in position.
STARS
Stars measure 6cm (2¼in) diameter.
Make 10, two in each colour.
With a 3.5mm hook, make a magic loop.
Work in a spiral without closing off each
24 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
round with a ss.
Round 1 5dc into loop.
Round 1 2dc into each st around. [10 dc]
Round 2 *Ss into next st, ch4, dc into
second ch from hook, htr into next ch, tr
into next ch, skip next dc of Round 1; rep
from * four more times [5 points made], ss
into first st. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Make a chain length to join the Stars
together as follows:
Using a 3.5mm hook and White, ch5, ss in
the point of a Star, making sure the RS of
the Star is facing, (ch10, ss to point of next
Star) rep until all Stars are joined, ch5.
Fasten off. Attach Stars to top of hoop
using drawing pins and image as a guide.
Attach outer hoop, fastening securely and
adding a crochet loop to top for hanging.
Unicorn slippers
The ultimate loungewear accessory for
princesses everywhere. By Hannah Cross.
Q DROPS Muskat (100% cotton, 50g/100m),
4 balls of White (18), 1 ball of each: Light Blue
(02), Light Mint (20), Lilac (04), Peach (10), Light
Yellow (07) and Black (17)
Q DROPS Glitter (10g/700m),
1 spool of Silver (02)
Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Q A 1mm (US 10 steel) hook (Eyes only)
Q Flip-flop or slipper soles in sizes UK 4-7
Q Toy stuffing for head and horn
Q 2 pieces of white felt the same size as the
slipper upper
Q Stitch markers
TENSION
Not critical as slipper cover will stretch to fit sole
MEASUREMENTS
Slipper cover fits UK foot size 4-7 (25cm (9¾in)
length)
NOTES
The ch1 at the beg of a row or round does
not count as a st. Slipper Tops are worked
in rounds that are joined.
Add Eyes, Ears, Horn and Nose to Unicorn
Head before sewing Head to slipper base.
Use a 3.5mm hook throughout unless told
otherwise. Apart from Inner Ears and
Wings, Unicorn Head parts are worked
continuously in a spiral without closing off
each round with a ss. It may help to use a
stitch marker in the first st of each round,
moving it up as you work.
SOLES
TOPS (MAKE 2)
Using White, ch21.
Round 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook
and in each of next 18 ch, 2dc in last ch,
rotate to continue working along opposite
side of chain, dc in each of next 19 ch, ss to
first dc to join. [40 sts]
Round 2 Ch1, 2dc in next st, dc in each of
next 18 sts, 2dc in each of next 2 sts, dc in
each of next 18 sts, 2dc in next st, ss to first
dc. [44 sts]
Round 3 Ch1, 2dc in each of next 2 sts, dc
in each of next 12 sts, htr in each of next 6

sts, 2tr in each of next 4 sts, htr in each of
next 6 sts, dc in each of next 12 sts, 2dc in
each of next 2 sts, ss to first dc. [52 sts]
Round 4 Ch1, 2dc in each of next 2 sts, dc
in each of next 14 sts, htr in each of next 6
sts, tr in each of next 2 sts, 2tr in each of
next 4 sts, tr in each of next 2 sts, htr in
each of next 6 sts, dc in each of next 14 sts,
2dc in each of next 2 sts, ss to first dc.
[60 sts]
Round 5 Ch1, 2htr in each of next 2 sts, htr
in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 14
sts, htr in each of next 6 sts, tr in each of
next 2 sts, 2tr in each of next 8 sts, tr in
each of next 2 sts, htr in each of next 6 sts,
dc in each of next 14 sts, htr in each of next
2 sts, 2htr in each of next 2 sts, ss to first
htr. [72 sts]
Round 6 Ch1, 2htr in each of next 2 sts, htr
in each of next 4 sts, dc in each of next 14
sts, htr in each of next 6 sts, tr in each of
next 6 sts, 2tr in each of next 8 sts, tr in
each of next 6 sts, htr in each of next 6 sts,
dc in each of next 14 sts, htr in each of next
4 sts, 2htr in each of next 2 sts, ss to first
htr. [84 sts]
Round 7 Ch1, 2htr in each of next 2 sts, htr
in each of next 6 sts, dc in each of next 14
sts, htr in each of next 12 sts, tr in each of
next 4 sts, 2tr in each of next 8 sts, tr in
each of next 4 sts, htr in each of next 12 sts,
dc in each of next 14 sts, htr in each of next
6 sts, 2htr in each of next 2 sts, ss to first
htr. [96 sts]
Round 8 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to
first dc. [96 sts] Fasten off.
BOTTOMS (MAKE 2)
Using Light Yellow, ch21.
Work Rounds 1-8 as given for Slipper Top
in the following colour order and changing
colour on yrh of ss join.
Round 1 Light Yellow
Round 2 Light Yellow
Round 3 Peach
Round 4 Lilac
Round 5 Light Mint
Round 6 Light Blue
Round 7 White
Round 8 White
Fasten off.
Place a Slipper Top and Bottom over the
flip-flop soles (with RS outermost) and join
using White, working dc in bl of each set of
sts around.
SLIPPER UPPER (MAKE 2)
Identify the front 65 sts of the Slipper Sole
and place a stitch marker at each end.
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PASTEL IDEAS
With the front of the Slipper Sole facing
you, join White to fl of the marked stitch on
the right-hand side.
Row 1 (RS) Ch1, dc in fl of each st around,
turn. [65 sts]
Rows 2-3 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each st to last
2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [61 sts at end of Row 3]
Row 4 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 20
sts, (htr2tog) 3 times, tr in each of next 5
sts, (htr2tog) 3 times, dc in each of next 20
sts, dc2tog, turn. [53 sts]
Row 5 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 16
sts, (htr2tog) 3 times, tr in each of next 5
sts, (htr2tog) 3 times, dc in each of next 16
sts, dc2tog, turn. [45 sts]
Row 6 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 12
sts, (htr2tog) 3 times, tr in each of next 5
sts, (htr2tog) 3 times, dc in each of next 12
sts, dc2tog. [37 sts]
Row 7 Ch1 dc2tog, dc in each of next 8 sts,
(htr2tog) 3 times, tr in each of next 5 sts,
(htr2tog) 3 times, dc in each of next 8 sts,
dc2tog, turn. [29 sts]
Row 8 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 4 sts,
(htr2tog) 3 times, tr in each of next 5 sts,
(htr2tog) 3 times, dc in each of next 4 sts,
dc2tog, turn. [21 sts]
Row 9 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 2 sts,
(tr2tog) 3 times, dtr in next st, (tr2tog) 3
times, dc in each of next 2 sts, dc2tog, turn.
[13 sts]
Row 10 Ch1, dc2tog, (tr2tog) twice, dtr in
next st, (tr2tog) twice, dc2tog. [7 sts]
Cut the white felt to shape and slot into
the Slipper to add strength and shape.
With a strand of Light Mint and Glitter held
tog, ss around the join of the soles. Repeat
this round with Light Blue and Glitter. Ss
around the edge of the Upper with Peach
and Glitter, continuing the edging around
the heel, and working above the edging
rounds just worked. Work another edging
round in the same fashion below the Light
Blue round using Lilac.
UNICORN HEAD (MAKE 2)
Using White, ch2.
Round 1 (RS) 6dc in second ch from hook.
[6 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Round 3 (2dc in next st, dc in next st) 6
times. [18 sts]
Round 4 (2dc in next st, dc in each of next
2 sts) 6 times. [24 sts]
Round 5 Dc in each st around.
Round 6 (Dc2tog, dc in each of next 2 sts)
6 times. [18 sts]
Rounds 7-8 Dc in each st around.
Round 9 (2dc in next st, dc in each of next
2 sts) 6 times. [24 sts]
Round 10 (2dc in next st, dc in each of
next 3 sts) 6 times. [30 sts]
Round 11 (2dc in next st, dc in each of
next 4 sts) 6 times. [36 sts]
Round 12 (2dc in next st, dc in each of
next 5 sts) 6 times. [42 sts]
Round 13 Dc in each st around.
Round 14 (Dc2tog, dc in each of next 5 sts)
6 times. [36 sts]
Round 15 Dc in each st around.
Round 16 (Dc2tog, dc in each of next 4 sts)
6 times. [30 sts]
Round 17 Dc in each st around.
Round 18 (Dc2tog, dc in each of next 3 sts)
6 times. [24 sts]
Round 19 Dc in each st around.
Round 20 (Dc2tog, dc in each of next 2 sts)
6 times. [18 sts]
Round 21 Dc in each st around.
Stuff with toy stuffing.
Round 22 (Dc2tog, dc in next st) 6 times.
[12 sts]
Round 23 (Dc2tog) 6 times. [6 sts]
Fasten off.
OUTER EAR (MAKE 4)
Using White, ch2.
Round 1 (RS) 3dc in second ch from hook.
[3 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [6 sts]
Round 3 (2dc in next st, dc in next st) 3
times. [9 sts]
Round 4 (2dc in next, dc in each of next 2
sts) 3 times. [12 sts]
Rounds 5-7 Dc in each st around.
Round 8 (Dc2tog, dc in next st) 4 times.
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 PASTEL IDEAS
[8 sts] Fasten off. Flatten and shape.
INNER EAR (MAKE 4)
Using Peach, ch5.
Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, dc
in next ch, htr in each of next 2 ch. [4 sts]
Fasten off. Sew to Outer Ear and shape.
Sew 2 Ears to each Head.
EYES (MAKE 4)
For the Eyes, split yarn to only use 3 single
strands and a 1mm hook.
Using Light Blue, ch2.
Round 1 (RS) 6dc in second ch from hook.
[6 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around, changing
to Lilac on last yrh of last dc. [12 sts]
Round 3 (2dc in next st, dc in next st) 6
times, changing to Lilac on last yrh of last
dc. [18 sts]
Round 4 (2dc in next st, dc in each of next
2 sts) 3 times, changing to White on last
yrh of last dc, in White (2dc in next st, dc in
each of next 2 sts) 3 times. [24 sts]
Fasten off.
PUPIL
Using Black, work as given for Rounds 1-2
of Eye. Fasten off. Sew Pupil to inner
corner of Eye. Using 2 strands of White, add
pupil highlights. Sew Eyes onto Head, add
eyelashes and nostrils using 2 strands of
26 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
Black, using image as a guide.
HORNS (MAKE 2)
Using Light Yellow and a strand of Glitter
held together, ch2.
Round 1 3dc in second ch from hook.
[3 sts]
Round 2 2dc in bl of each st around. [6 sts]
Rounds 3-4 Dc in bl of each st around.
Round 5 (2dc in bl of next st, dc in bl of
next st) 3 times. [9 sts]
Rounds 6-9 Dc in bl of each st around.
[9 sts] Fasten off and sew in place.
WINGS (MAKE 4)
Using Light Yellow and a strand of Glitter
held together, ch16.
Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and
in each ch to end. [15 sts]
Row 2 Ch1, dc in each of next 13 sts, turn
leaving rem sts unworked. [13 sts]
Row 3 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn.
Row 4 Ch1, dc in each of next 11 sts, turn
leaving rem sts unworked. [11 sts]
Row 5 As Row 3.
Row 6 Ch1, dc in each of next 8 sts, turn
leaving rem sts unworked. [8 sts]
Row 7 Ch1, dc in next st, htr in each of next
2 sts, dc in each of next 3 sts, htr in next st,
2htr in last st, rotate to work along short
side, 2tr in next st, tr in each of next 2 sts,
htr in each of next 2 sts. [15 sts]
Fasten off. Pinch end tog and sew in place.
TO FINISH
Add a mane to each Head by tying full
strands of yarn in every colour down the
back of the Head. Use a fine needle to
separate the strands of the yarn.
Rainbow baskets
Make tidying up more fun with Anne
Egan’s set of colourful storage baskets.
Q DROPS Muskat (100% cotton, 50g/100m),
3 balls of White (18),
1 ball of each: Lilac (04), Light Blue (02), Light
Mint (20), Light Yellow (07), Peach (10)
Q A 6mm (US J/10) hook
Q A stitch marker
MEASUREMENTS
Diameters of pots from Large to Extra Small:
12cm (4¾in), 10cm (4in), 9cm (3½in), 8cm (3in)
Heights of pots from Large to Extra Small: 12cm
(4¾in), 10cm (4in), 9cm (3½in), 8cm (3in)
NOTES
The Pots are worked using the amigurumi
method. Work in a continuous spiral
without closing off each round with a slip
stitch. You may find it helpful to place a
marker in the first st of each round and
move it up as you work.
All Pots are made using 2 strands of each
colour held tog. Change colour in the last
yrh of last st of prev round.
LARGE POT
Using 2 strands of Yarn A held tog, ch2.
 PASTEL IDEAS

Round 1 6dc in 2nd ch from hook.
Round 2 2dc in each dc around. [12 dc]
Round 3 (Dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc)
around. [18 dc]
Round 4 (Dc in next 2 dc, 2dc in next dc)
around. [24 dc]
Round 5 (Dc in next 3 dc, 2dc in next dc)
around. [30 dc]
Round 6 (Dc in next 4 dc, 2dc in next dc)
around. [36 dc]
Round 7 (Dc in next 5 dc, 2dc in next dc)
around. [42 dc]
Round 8 (Dc in next 6 dc, 2dc in next dc)
around. [48 dc]
Rounds 9-15 Dc in each dc around.
Round 16 Dc in each dc around, change to
Lilac in last yrh of last st of round.
Round 17 (Dc in next 9 dc, ch9, skip 7 dc,
dc in next 8 dc) twice, change to Light
Blue.
Round 18 *(Dc in next 8 dc, dc2tog
(working into next dc and next ch), dc in
next ch, 2dc in next ch, dc in next 3 ch, 2dc
in next ch, dc in next ch, dc2tog (working
into next ch and next dc), dc in next 7 dc;
rep from * once more, change to Light
Mint.
Round 19 *Dc in next 7 dc, dc2tog, dc in
next 2 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc,
2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, dc2tog, dc
in next 6 dc; rep from * once more, change
to Light Yellow.
Round 20 *Dc in next 6 dc, dc2tog, dc in
next 3 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc,
2dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc, dc2tog, dc
in next 5 dc, rep from * once more, change
to Peach.
Round 21 *Dc in next 5 dc, dc2tog, dc in
next 4 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc,
2dc in next dc, dc in next 4 dc, dc2tog, dc
in next 4 dc, rep from * once more.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
next ch, 2dc in next ch, dc in next ch, 2dc
in next ch, dc in next ch, dc2tog (working
into next ch and next dc), dc in next 7 dc;
rep from * once more.
Round 17 *Dc in next 6 dc, dc2tog, dc in
next 2 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2dc
in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, dc2tog, dc in
next 6 dc; rep from * once more.
Round 18 *Dc in next 5 dc, dc2tog, dc in
next 3 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2dc
in next dc, dc in next 3 dc, dc2tog, dc in
next 5 dc; rep from * once more.
Round 19 *Dc in next 4 dc, dc2tog, dc in
next 4 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2dc
in next dc, dc in next 4 dc, dc2tog, dc in
next 4 dc; rep from * once more.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
HANDLE EDGE
Join Lilac in first skipped st of Round 14, ss
in each of the 5 skipped sts. Fasten off and
weave in ends. Rep for other handle.
SMALL POT
Work as for Large Pot to end of Round 6.
[36 dc]
Rounds 7 to 12 Dc in each dc around.
Work the following rounds using the same
colour sequence as the Large Pot.
Round 13 (Dc in next 8 dc, ch5, skip 3 dc,
dc in next 7 dc) twice.
Round 14 *(Dc in next 7 dc, dc2tog
(working into next dc and next ch), 2dc in
next ch, dc in next ch, 2dc in next ch,
dc2tog (working into next ch and next dc),
dc in next 6 dc; rep from * once more.
Round 15 *Dc in next 6 dc, dc2tog, dc in
next dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2dc
in next dc, dc in next dc, dc2tog, dc in next
5 dc; rep from * once more.
Round 16 *Dc in next 5 dc, dc2tog, dc in
next 2 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2dc
in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, dc2tog, dc in
next 4 dc; rep from * once more.
Round 17 *Dc in next 4 dc, dc2tog, dc in
next 3 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2dc
in next dc, dc in next 3 dc, dc2tog, dc in
next 3 dc, rep from * once more.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
HANDLE EDGE
Join Lilac in first skipped st of Round 12, ss
in each of the 3 skipped sts. Fasten off and
weave in ends. Rep for other handle.
EXTRA SMALL POT
Work as for Large Pot to end of Round 5.
[30 dc]
Rounds 6-10 Dc in each dc around.
Work the following rounds using the same
colour sequence as the Large Pot.
Round 11 (Dc in next 6 dc, ch4, skip 2 dc,
dc in next 7 dc) twice.
Round 12 *(Dc in next 5 dc, dc2tog

HANDLE EDGE
Join Lilac in first skipped st of Round 16, ss
in each of the 7 skipped sts. Fasten off and
weave in ends. Rep for other handle.

MEDIUM POT
Work as for Large Pot to end of Round 7.
[42 dc]
Rounds 8-14 Dc in each dc around.

Work the following rounds using the same

colour sequence as the Large Pot.
Round 15 (Dc in next 8 dc, ch7, skip 5 dc,
dc in next 8 dc) twice.
Round 16 *(Dc in next 7 dc, dc2tog
(working into next dc and next ch), dc in

Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 27

 PASTEL IDEAS
(working into next dc and next ch), dc in
next ch, 2dc in next ch, dc2tog (working
into next ch and next dc), dc in next 6 dc;
rep from * once more.
Round 13 *Dc in next 4 dc, dc2tog, 2dc in
next dc, dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc,
dc2tog, dc in next 5 dc; rep from * once
more.
Round 14 *Dc in next 3 dc, dc2tog, dc in
next dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2dc
in next dc, dc in next dc, dc2tog, dc in next
4 dc; rep from * once more.
Round 15 *Dc in next 2 dc, dc2tog, dc in
next 2 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2dc
in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, dc2tog, dc in
next 3 dc; rep from * once more.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
HANDLE EDGE
Join Lilac in first skipped st of Round 10, ss
in each of the 2 skipped sts. Fasten off and
weave in ends. Rep for other handle.
Jewellery hanger
Keep pearls and pendants tangle-free
with Sara Huntington’s simple tidy.
Q DROPS Muskat (100% cotton 50g/100m),
1 ball of each: Yarn A White (18), Yarn B
shades: Light Blue (02), Lilac (04), Light Mint
(20), Light Yellow (07)
Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Q A wooden hanging rack with drawer knobs
28 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
MEASUREMENTS
Each star measures 6.5cm (2½in) dia
Diameter of finished lamp, 55cm (21½in)
STARS
Make 84 in total, using the colours evenly.
You might find the yarn quantities a little
tight, so keep your yarn tails short.
With your yarn shade of choice, make a
magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr into
loop, ch1, (3tr into loop, ch1) 4 times, ss into
top of beg ch-3. [15 sts]
Round 2 *Ch5, dc in second ch from hook,
htr in next ch, tr in next ch, dtr in next ch,
ss in next ch-1 sp from prev round; rep
from * 4 more times. [5 points]
Round 3 *Ss into each rem loop of ch-5,
ch1, ss in bl of next 5 sts; rep from * 4 more
times.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
TO MAKE UP
Assemble the lamp according to the
MEASUREMENTS instructions, omitting the ‘flowers’ on the
To fit 5cm (2in) dia knob ends of the spikes.
Glue a star in place on the end of each
COVER spike, spreading the colours as evenly as
Make 4, one in each of the Yarn B shades. possible.
With Yarn A, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st
throughout), (dc, ch1) into loop 6 times, ss
to first dc. Fasten off. [6 dc, 6 ch-1 sps]
Round 2 Join Yarn B in any ch-sp, ch1, 2dc
in each ch-sp around, ss to first dc. [12 dc]
Round 3 Ch1, (1dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times,
ss to first dc. [18 dc]
Round 4 Ch1, (2dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times, Wool Warehouse
ss to first dc. [24 dc] 01926882818
Rounds 5-7 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to www.woolwarehouse.co.uk
first dc. Fit the cover before continuing.
Round 8 Ch1, (dc2tog) 6 times, ss to first
dc. [12 dc]
Round 9 Ch1, (1dc, dc2tog) 4 times, ss to
first dc. Pull tight to fit at base.
Fasten off.
Starry lampshade
A showstopping shade that’s out of this
world. Designed by Boys and Bunting.
Q DROPS Muskat (100% cotton 50g/100m),
1 ball of each: Light Blue (02), Lilac (04), Light
Mint (20), Light Yellow (07), Peach (10)
Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook
Q An Ikea Maskros pendant lamp, 55cm
Q Craft glue
 ...for all your knitting & crochet needs
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 Psst
Give off
vibe  withre t  o
m e  ino m th i 
ak e
 Granny cardi

A good vintage
What do you get if you mix rainbow stripes
and granny trebles? A jolly fab cardi by Fran Morgan.

Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 33

Granny cardi
EASY
PEASY
4PLY
WEIGHT
YOU WILL NEED
Q King Cole Merino Blend 4ply
(100% wool, 50g/180m)
Yarn A Silver (36) (see table)
Yarn B shades: 1 ball of each:
Mustard (1773)
Stone (904)
Scarlet (9)
Rose Petal (1533)
Fuchsia (787)
Forget Me Not (1536)
Fern (854), Sage (853)
Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Q Tapestry needle
Q 7 small buttons
For yarn stockists contact
King Cole 01756 703670
www.kingcole.com
TENSION
20tr and 11 rows to measure
10x10cm (4x4in) over patt using a
3.5mm hook or size required to
obtain tension
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 92
a
Width a: 45 (51: 57: 63)cm
17¾ (20: 22½: 24¾)in
Sleeve Length b: 45 (45: 45: 47)cm
18 (18: 18: 18½)in
Body Length c: 50 (52: 53.5: 55.5)cm
19½ (20½: 21: 22)in
34 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
Team rainbow stripes with soft grey for a
round-neck cardi with buckets of vintage
charm. Fran Morgan’s treble-tastic design
3MM has playful contrasting buttons, too.
3.5MM
NOTES
Back and Front are worked bottom up in 1
section to armholes, then divided for Fronts
and Back. Sleeves are made separately and
sewn in. When working the stripe sequence,
fasten off each colour at the end of each row Follow the colour sequence of nine Yarn B
and turn work, this gives a better finish. shades listed in the Stitch Pattern below.
When working the Sleeves in the round,
turn at the end of each round to match
Body. the tr at beg and end of row do not count as
groups]
BACK AND FRONT Row 3 With Yarn A, ch3, tr in st at base of ch,
Using a 3mm hook and Yarn A, ch172(199: skip first 3-tr group, (3tr in sp before next
223: 247). 3-tr group) to last 3-tr group, skip last 3-tr
Row 1 Ch1 (does not count as st group, 2tr in top of beg ch-3.
throughout), dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in Fasten off, turn. [58 (66: 74: 82) tr groups]
each st to end, turn. [171(198: 222: 246) sts] Rows 2 and 3 form pattern.
Row 2 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Cont in patt until work meas approx 30cm
Rep last row twice more. ending on a Row 2.
Change to a 3.5mm hook.
DIVIDE FOR ARMHOLES
STITCH PATTERN RIGHT FRONT
Row 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as first tr Cont working in pattern as set.
throughout), tr in st at base of ch, (skip 2 sts, Row 1 (RS) Patt 12 (14: 15: 17) tr groups
3tr in next st) to last 3 sts, skip 2 sts, 2tr in (counting beg 2-tr as a group), 2tr in space
last st. Fasten off, turn. [58 (66: 74: 82) tr between next two groups, turn and cont on
groups; 2-tr at beg and end of row each these sts for Right Front. [13 (15: 16: 18) tr
count as groups] groups]
Join Yarn B in 1st st, and work each Row 2 of Row 2 (Decrease row) Join yarn in last tr of
patt using one of Yarn B colours in the foll prev row. Ch3, skip first space, 3tr in next sp
sequence: Mustard, Stone, Scarlet, Rose and work as Row 2 of patt to end, turn.
Petal, Fuchsia, Forget Me Not, Fern, Sage. [11 (13: 14: 16) tr groups]
Row 2 Ch3, (3tr in sp before next 3-tr group) Row 3 Patt to last 3-tr group, work 2tr into
to last 2-tr group, 3-tr in sp before last 2-tr sp between 3-tr group and beg ch-3, turn.
group, tr in top of beg ch-3. [12 (14: 15: 17) tr groups]
Fasten off, turn. [57 (65: 73: 81) tr groups; Rep the last 2 rows twice more. [10 (12: 13:
SIZE 8-10 12-14 16-18 20-22
cm 81-86 91-97 102-107 112-117
TO FIT BUST
in 32-34 36-38 40-42 44-46
cm 90 102 114 126
c ACTUAL BUST
in 35½ 40 45 49½
b cm 50 52 53.5 55.5
LENGTH
in 19½ 20½ 21 22
cm 45 45 45 47
SLEEVE LENGTH
in 18 18 18 18½
YARN A 50g 4 5 6 7
To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the
relevant column.

15) tr groups] Work 4 (6: 8: 10) more rows in
patt without shaping.
SHAPE FRONT NECK
Next row Patt as Row 2 to last 4 tr groups, tr
in sp before next 3-tr group, turn leaving
rem sts unworked. [6 (8: 9: 11) tr groups]
Next row Ch3, 3tr in sp after first 3-tr group,
patt to end, turn.
Next row Patt as Row 2 to last 3-tr group, tr
in top of beg ch-3, turn. [5 (7: 8: 10) tr
groups]
Work in patt without shaping for a further
6 rows.
SHAPE SHOULDER
Next row Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, 3tr in
next sp, 3htr in next 2 (4: 5: 7) sps, 2dc in
next sp, dc in last st. Fasten off.
BACK
With RS facing skip 3 (3: 5: 5) tr groups after
Right Front and rejoin yarn in next space.
Row 1 Work as Patt Row 3 for 27 (31: 33: 37)
tr groups, (counting beg 2-tr as a group), 2tr
in next space, turn and cont on these sts for
Back. [28 (32: 34: 38) tr groups]
Row 2 (Decrease row) Join yarn to last tr of
prev row. Ch3, skip first space, 3tr in next sp
and each sp across to last sp, skip last sp, tr
in top of beg ch-3, turn.
[25 (29: 30: 34) tr groups]
Row 3 Join yarn in last st of prev row, ch3, tr
in first sp, patt to last 3-tr group, 2tr in sp
between last 3-tr group and beg ch-3, turn.
[26 (30: 31: 35) tr groups]
Rep the last 2 rows twice more. [22 (26: 27:
31) tr groups]
Work 14 (16: 18: 20) more rows in patt
without shaping.
SHAPE SHOULDER
Next row Ch1, dc in st at base of ch, skip
first 3-tr group, 2dc in next sp, 3htr in next 2
(4: 5: 7) sps, cont in patt to last 4 (6: 7: 9)
groups and last tr, 3htr in next 2 (4: 5: 7) sps,
2dc in next sp, skip last sp and dc in top of
beg ch-3. Fasten off.
LEFT FRONT
With RS facing skip 3 (3: 5: 5) tr groups after
Back and rejoin yarn in next space.
Row 1 (RS) Work in Row 3 of Patt to end,
turn. [13 (15: 16: 18) tr groups]
Row 2 (Decrease Row) Work in Row 2 of
Patt to last 3-tr group and 2-tr group, skip
last sp, tr in top of beg ch-3, turn. [11 (13: 14:
16) tr groups]
Row 3 Work in Row 3 of Patt to end, turn.
Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
[12 (14: 15: 17) tr groups]
Rep the last 2 rows twice more. [10 (12: 13:
15) tr groups]
Work 4 (6: 8: 10) more rows in patt without
shaping.
SHAPE FRONT NECK
Next row (WS) Skip first 2 tr and 2 3-tr
groups, rejoin yarn in next sp, work in Row 2
of patt to end, turn. [6 (8: 9: 11) tr groups]
Next row Patt to last 3-tr group, tr in top of
beg ch-3, turn.
Next row Ch3, 3tr in sp after first 3-tr group,
patt to end, turn. [5 (7: 8: 10) tr groups]
Work in patt without shaping for a further 6
rows.
SHAPE SHOULDER
Next row Ch1, dc in st at base of ch, skip
first 3-tr group, 2dc in next sp, 3htr in next 2
(4: 5 :7) sps, cont in patt to end. Fasten off.
SLEEVES
Using a 3mm hook and Yarn A, ch42 (48: 51:
54), ss to first ch to join. Place a marker in
first st of round, moving it up as you work.
Round 1 Ch1, dc into 2nd ch from hook and
each ch around, ss to first dc.
[42 (48: 51: 54) sts]
Rounds 2-3 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to
first dc. Change to a 3.5mm hook.
Patt round 1 (RS) Ch3, 2tr in st at base of ch,
(skip 2 sts, 3tr in next st) to last 2 sts, ss to
the top of the beg ch-3, turn.
[14 (16: 17: 18) tr groups]
Change to Yarn B.
It is possible to work out which shade of
Yarn B to start with so the colours will match
Body colours when they meet at the
armhole. If you set out to work 50 (50: 50:
52) rounds to armhole, then there will be 25
(25: 25: 26) Yarn B rounds, and the last of
these rounds will need to be the same
shade as last row before divide on Body.
From there you can work back through the
sequence to see which shade to start with.
Patt round 2 (WS) Join yarn to last st of
prev round. Ch3, 2tr into sp at base of ch, 3tr
in each sp around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to
join, turn. The last round forms the patt;
cont alternating between Yarn A and Yarn B
shades in sequence as for Body, changing
yarn and turning at the end of every round.
Inc round 1 Ch3, 5tr in st at base of ch, 3tr in
next sp and each sp to end and cont as for
patt round.
Inc round 2 Work as patt round until last
6-tr group, work an increase 3-tr group in
the third tr of the 6-tr group, ss to top of beg
Granny cardi
ch-3 to join, turn. [15 (17: 18: 19) tr groups]
Work 4 more rounds in patt.
Rep last 6 rounds a further 5 (5: 6: 7) times
until there are 20 (22: 24: 26) tr groups.
Cont working in patt without shaping until
there are a total of 50 (50: 50: 52) rnds.
SLEEVE CAP
Worked in rows, cont in patt of Yarn A and
Yarn B, turning at the end of each round.
Marker denotes side seam. Identify the most
central 3 (3: 5: 5) groups to leave unworked
for underarm at side seam. Rejoin yarn in
space before next group.
Row 1 (RS) Work in Row 3 of patt, with last
2-tr group worked in space before
unworked 3 (3: 5: 5) groups, turn. [18 (20: 20:
22) tr groups]
Row 2 (Decrease row) Join yarn to last tr of
prev row. Ch3, skip next tr and 3-tr group, (tr
in sp before next 3-tr group) to last 3-tr
group, skip last 3-tr group, tr in top of beg
ch-3, turn. [15 (17: 17: 19) tr groups]
Row 3 Join yarn in last tr of prev row, ch3, tr
in st at base of ch, patt to last 3-tr group, 2tr
in sp before last st, turn.
[16 (18: 18 :20) tr groups]
Rep last 2 rows 6 (7: 7: 8) times more.
[4 tr groups] Join shoulder seams.
BORDERS
With RS facing join Yarn A at lower edge of
Right Front and work around Fronts and
neckline as follows:
Row 1 (RS) Using a 3mm hook work 2dc into
every row end and into each corner st. Dc
across horizontal neck edges and (2dc, skip
next st) across back neck, turn at bottom of
Left Front.
Rows 2-3 Ch1 (does not count as st
throughout), dc in each st to end, turn.
Row 4 As prev row, working up to top of
Left Front only, turn.
Work 3 more border rows as above on Left
Front only. Place 7 markers spaced evenly on
Left Front border for button positions. With
RS facing rejoin yarn to top corner of Right
Front.
Row 1 Ch1, dc in each st to end of Right
Front, turn.
Row 2 Work in dc, with (skip 2 dc, ch2) to
correspond with each marked button
position. Work 3 more rows of dc.
TO MAKE UP
Sew Sleeve Cap evenly into armhole, join
side and Sleeve seams. Weave in ends.
Sew 7 buttons to Left Front in place of
markers.
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 35
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 STEPHANIE'S
JOURNAL
om C a n a d a ... f r
Designer Stephanie Lau from All About
Ami shares her latest passion – creating
beautiful cabled crochet projects.
W
hen you hear the word “cables” in fibre arts, usually
knitting comes to mind first of all. Cables are so
intricate, elegant and luxurious, and they provide
such a gorgeous texture to a piece.
I was intrigued when I first discovered a few years ago that
cabling could be achieved with crochet. With knitting, cabling
is accomplished by moving stitches on and off a cable needle
resulting in beautiful twists and turns. On the other hand,
cables in crochet are achieved by the clever and strategic use
and placement of front and back post treble crochets and
front post double treble crochets.
Working around the posts of stitches helps elevate the
stitches, enabling the cables to rise up relative to the rest of
the piece. By skipping certain stitches and then working
around those previously skipped stitches later, we can achieve
those beautiful twists and turns that characterise cables.
GETTING THE HANG OF CABLING
My first cabling project was a free pattern I found online to
make cabled wrist warmers. I learned how to work cables flat
and later used this technique to work cables in the round.
Moving on from this, my first original design using cables
was my Cabled Slouchy Beanie. I made a ribbed band and then
“It's astounding
any different
looks you can achieve.”
“C ables a re so
intricate,
elegant and lux
u riou s.”
worked cables in the round. These cables give such gorgeous
texture, and this pattern is now one of my most popular
designs! I adapted the pattern for a toddler and also for use
with super-bulky yarn since this design is very easy to modify.
I made a second version of this pattern by working front
post double crochets around the cables. You’ll notice that
they really help frame the cables and give a nice variation.
Last winter, I designed some cabled legwarmers to wear
either under or over boots. I used a similar design as the
second version of my slouchy beanie by framing the cables
with front post double crochets. These cables make the
legwarmers look so elegant and provide such a lovely texture!
This past autumn, I released a brand new cabled pattern
called the Chunky Braided Cabled Blanket. I had so much fun
working on this particular design since I used jumbo level
seven yarn (even thicker than super-chunky) and a huge
15mm hook. Rather than using the typical cable design from
my previous projects, for this one I learned a new braided
cabling technique. It’s astounding how many different
cabling looks you can achieve by switching the placements of
your front and back post trebles and double treble stitches!
I'm currently working on a pair of cabled crochet mittens
where one set of cables is simply framed at the front of the
mitten. I would also really love to design a cabled cowl
or a cabled sweater in the future, so there’s plenty more
to keep me occupied with this technique!

ADD TO YOUR REPERTOIRE “I encourage ou

.”
Even though crochet cabling may appear daunting at first,
particularly with the complexity of the written patterns, it
really is not too difficult at all. Once you get the hang of the
to take that next step
pattern, you fall into a rhythm, and the cabling works up very
quickly. I learned from a free tutorial online, and there are
helpful YouTube videos also available. such an accomplishment adding new skills to your crochet
All of my patterns are free on my blog, and I try my best to repertoire! Crochet cables are one of my favourite techniques,
provide detailed, step-by-step instructions to clearly show the and I’m so happy that I learned how to do them.
process. If you’ve been hesitant to try crochet cabling before,
then I encourage you to take that next step and give them a Find cosy crochet patterns and all of Stephanie’s cabling
go! The looks you can achieve are stunning, and it’s always tutorials over on her blog, www. allaboutami.com

Cosy with cables

Thi Cabled Blanket wa such a fun
challenge to deign and cochet! I love the
elegant look of the intetwined braided
cable famed by the raied ba . Using
jumbo level 7 yan and a 15 mm cochet
hook helped thi project go by quickly. It i
such a gogeou and cozy addition to ou
home, and we love cuddling in it!
All photographs by Ryan Lau
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All mod cons
The granny square gets funky in this
snug cowl. By Vickie Howell.
granny squar cow
EASY
PEASY
ARAN 5.5MM
WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
Q Vickie Howell for Deramores Mod
Wool (100% superwash merino
wool, 100g/125m), 1 ball of each:
Yarn A Apollo Aran (100)
Yarn B Cadillac Black (200)
Yarn C Groovy Green (AM8038)
Q A 5.5mm (US I/9) hook
Q Tapestry needle
For yarn stockists contact
Deramores 0845 519 4573
www.deramores.com
TENSION
12 htr and 11 rows to measure
10x10 cm (4x4in) over htr using a
5.5mm hook
MEASUREMENTS
Finished cowl meas 25cm (10in) tall
and 61cm (24in) in circumference
ABBREVIATIONS
Front post half treble (FPhtr) Yrh,
starting at the front, insert hook
from front to back to front around
the post of the indicated st,
complete as for htr
Back post half treble (BPhtr) Yrh,
starting at the back, insert hook
from back to front to back around
the post of the indicated st,
complete as for htr
For a full list, see page 92
Work front and back half trebles to create
the ribbed bands around the edge.
42 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
This stylish accessory is designed by Vickie
Howell, who’s also responsible for working
with Deramores on the scrummy yarn it’s
stitched with, Mod Wool. This aran-weight
merino wool comes in eight shades, all with
60s-inspired names. Vickie’s used three fab
hues to hook up her cosy cowl, where the
offset granny square meets rows of half
trebles. It looks pretty groovy, right?
NOTES
The Cowl is worked from the centre of
Granny Square in rounds, then changes to
working in rows after Round 2. Once sewn
together, the Band is then worked in rounds
onto the edges of the Cowl.
COWL
With Yarn A, ch4, ss to first ch to join in a
ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr throughout),
2tr into ring, ch3, *3tr into ring, ch3; repeat
from * twice more, ss to top of beg ch-3 to
join. [4 groups of 3-tr]
Round 2 (RS) Ss across to first ch-3 sp, (ch3,
2tr, ch3, 3tr) in same ch-3 sp, ch1, *(3tr, ch3,
3tr) in next ch-3 sp, ch1; repeat from * twice
more, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [8 groups
of 3-tr] Fasten off.
You will now work in rows over 2 sides of the
Granny Square.
Row 3 (RS) Join Yarn B in first ch-3 sp, ch3,
2tr in same ch-3 sp, ch1, 3tr in next ch-1 sp,
ch1, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in next ch-3 sp, ch1, 3tr in
next ch-1 sp, ch1, 3tr in next ch-3 sp, turn. [6
groups of 3-tr] Fasten off.
Row 4 (WS) Join Yarn A in first st, ch4
(counts as tr, ch1), (3tr in next ch-1 sp, ch1)
twice, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in ch-3 sp, ch1, (3tr in
next ch-1 sp, ch1) twice, tr in last tr, turn.
Fasten off.
Row 5 (RS) Join Yarn B in first ch-1 sp, ch3,
2tr in same ch-1 sp, ch1, (3tr in next ch-1 sp,
ch1) twice, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in ch-3 sp, (ch1, 3tr
in next ch-1 sp) 3 times, turn.
Fasten off.
Row 6 Join Yarn C in first st, ch2 (counts as
htr), htr in each tr and ch-1 sp across to ch-3
corner sp, 3htr in ch-3 sp, htr in each tr and
ch-1 sp across to end, turn. [33 htr]
Fasten off.
Row 7 Join Yarn A in first st, ch4 (counts as
tr, ch1), skip 2 htr, (3tr in next htr, ch1, skip 3
htr) 3 times, skip next htr, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in
next htr, skip next htr, (ch1, skip 3 htr, 3tr in
next htr) 3 times, ch1, skip 2 htr, tr in last st,
turn. [8 groups of 3-tr] Fasten off.
Row 8 Join Yarn B in first ch-1 sp, ch3, 2tr in
Get acquainted with working rows, rounds,
trebles and half trebles to make this cowl.
same ch-1 sp, (ch1, 3tr in next ch-1 sp) 3
times, ch1, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in ch-3 sp, (ch1, 3tr in
next ch-1 sp) 4 times, turn.
[10 groups of 3-tr] Fasten off.
Row 9 Join Yarn A in first st, ch4 (counts as
tr, ch1), (3tr in next ch-1 sp, ch1) 4 times, (3tr,
ch3, 3tr) in ch-3 sp, (ch1, 3tr in next ch-1 sp) 4
times, ch1, skip 2 tr, tr in last st, turn.
Fasten off.
You will now work in rows over 1 side of the
Granny Square beginning with the sts just
worked.
Row 10 (WS) Join Yarn B in first st, ch2
(counts as htr throughout), htr in each tr and
ch-1 sp across to ch-3 corner sp, htr in ch-3
sp, turn. [22 htr]
Row 11 Ch2, htr in each st across, turn.
Fasten off.
Row 12 Join Yarn A in first st, ch2, htr in each
st across, turn.
Row 13 Ch2, htr in each st across, turn.
Fasten off.
Row 14 Join Yarn C in first st, ch2, htr in each
st across, turn. Fasten off.
Row 15 Join Yarn B in first st, ch2, htr in each
st across, turn.
Rows 16-50 Repeat (Rows 11-15) seven
times more.
Row 51 Repeat Row 11 once more.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Using a tapestry needle and the long tail,
join the last row to the edge of the Granny
Square to create a tube.
Weave in all ends.
BAND
Work one onto each edge of the Cowl.
Round 1 (RS) Join Yarn A in any row end at
the top back of Cowl, ch2 (does not count as
st), 72htr evenly around the edge of the
Cowl, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join.
Rounds 2-5 Ch2 (does not count as st),
(FPhtr in next st, BPhtr in next st) 36 times, ss
to top of beg ch-2 to join. Fasten off.
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FROM EVERY CO
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SOLD GOES TO
COMIC RELIEF

over 50 crafty makes for red nose day

DON’T MISS OUT!
Mollie Makes The Big Comic Relief
Crafternoon is back with an all-new
collection of over 50 makes for Red
Nose Day. It’s packed with projects to
sell at your own Crafternoon, or
simply to make and enjoy, and £5
from every copy goes to charity!

INSIDE! A special 8-page

section printed on matt paper to cut
out and frame! Find colouring pages,
inspirational illustrated quotes and a
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just
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Contents subject to change

ORDER YOUR COPY TODAY!

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Comic Relief, registered charity 326568 (England/Wales); SC039730
Run Rabbit
Tracy Coldwell’s adorable bunny toy is
poised and ready to spring into action.
amigurumi rabbit
EASY
PEASY
DK 3MM
WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
Q Three Bears Yarn Affection Cotton
DK (100% cotton, 50g/169m),
2 balls of Yarn A Silver Grey
1 ball of Yarn B Baby Pink
Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Q Two 8mm black safety eyes
Q Toy stuffing
Q Stitch markers
Q A 5cm (2in) white pompom
(you can use yarn from your stash)
For yarn stockists contact
Three Bears Yarn
www.threebearsyarn.co.uk
MEASUREMENTS
Rabbit measures approx 17cm
(6¾in) tall
ABBREVIATIONS
Invisible decrease (Inv dec) Insert
your hook into the front loop of the
first st. Without putting the yarn
round the hook, bring the hook to
the front of the work and insert the
hook into the front loop of the next
st (3 loops on hook). Yrh and draw
through all 3 loops.
For a full list, see page 92
46 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
Fluffy pompom tail, little pink nose, floppy
ears and feet ready for bouncing? Check!
Make a start now and you’ll have this
super-cute amigurumi bunny done and
dusted in plenty of time for Easter.
NOTES
Work in a continuous spiral without closing
off each round with a ss. You may find it
helpful to place a marker in the first st of
each round and move it up as you work.
HEAD
Using Yarn A, make a magic loop.
Rnd 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into
loop.
Rnd 2 2dc in each st around. [12 dc]
Rnd 3 (1dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [18 sts]
Rnd 4 (2dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [24 sts]
Rnd 5 (3dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [30 sts]
Rnd 6 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 7 (4dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [36 sts]
Rnds 8-9 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 10 (5dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times.
[42 sts]
Rnds 11-13 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 14 (6dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times.
[48 sts]
Rnds 15-18 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 19 (7dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times.
[54 sts]
Rnds 20-23 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 24 (7dc, inv dec) 6 times. [48 sts]
Rnd 25 (6dc, inv dec) 6 times. [42 sts]
Rnd 26 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 27 (5dc, inv dec) 6 times. [36 sts]
The ears are folded at the base before
they’re sewn on for a more realistic shape.
Insert safety eyes in between Rnds 17 and
18, 12 sts apart.
Rnd 28 (4dc, inv dec) 6 times. [30 sts]
Rnd 29 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 30 (3dc, inv dec) 6 times. [24 sts]
Fill head firmly with toy stuffing.
Rnd 31 (2dc, inv dec) 6 times. [18 sts]
Rnd 32 (1dc, inv dec) 6 times. [12 sts]
Rnd 33 (Inv dec) 6 times. [6 sts]
Fasten off and weave tail through last 6 sts
and pull tight. Weave in ends.
Embroider the nose using Baby Pink and the
image as a guide.
EARS (MAKE 2)
Using Yarn A, make a magic loop.
Rnds 1-4 Work as for Rnds 1-4 of Head.
[24 sts]
Rnds 5-23 Dc in each st around.
Fasten off.
BODY
Using Yarn A, make a magic loop.
Rnds 1-5 Work as for Rnds 1-5 of Head.
[30 sts]
Rnd 6 (4dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [36 sts]
Rnd 7 (5dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [42 sts]
Rnd 8 (6dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [48 sts]
Rnd 9 (7dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times. [54 sts]
Rnd 10 (8dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times.
[60 sts]
Rnd 11 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 12 (9dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times.
[66 sts]
Rnds 13-20 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 21 (1dc, inv dec) 10 times, dc in next 36
sts. [56 sts]
Rnds 22-23 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 24 (1dc, inv dec) 7 times, dc in next 35
sts. [49 sts]
Rnds 25-26 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 27 (1dc, inv dec) 6 times, dc in next 31
 amigurumi rabbit

sts. [43 sts] Rnd 30 (Inv dec) 6 times. [6 sts]

Rnds 28-31 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 32 1dc, (5dc, inv dec) 6 times. [37 sts]
Rnds 33-34 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 35 1dc, (4dc, inv dec) 6 times. [31 sts]
Rnd 36 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 37 1dc, (3dc, inv dec) 6 times.
[25 sts]
Rnd 36 Dc in each st around.
Fasten off.
ARMS (MAKE 2)
Using Yarn A, make a magic loop.
Rnds 1-6 Work as for Rnds 1-6 of Head.
[30 sts]
Rnds 7-10 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 11 (3dc, inv dec) 6 times. [24 sts]
Rnd 12 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 13 (2dc, inv dec) 6 times. [18 sts]
Rnds 14-22 Dc in each st around.
Stuff lower Arm.
Rnd 23 (1dc, inv dec) 6 times. [12 sts]
Rnds 24-36 Dc in each st around.
Fasten off.
Lightly stuff the rest of the Arm.
FEET (MAKE 2)
Using Yarn A, make a magic loop.
Rnds 1-7 Work as for Rnds 1-7 of Body.
[42 sts]
Rnds 8-11 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 12 (5dc, inv dec) 6 times. [36 sts]
Rnds 13-16 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 17 (4dc, inv dec) 6 times. [30 sts]
Rnds 18-20 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 21 (3dc, inv dec) 6 times. [24 sts]
Rnds 22-27 Dc in each st around.
Rnd 28 (2dc, inv dec) 6 times. [18 sts]
Rnd 29 (1dc, inv dec) 6 times. [12 sts]
Fasten off and weave tail through last 6 sts
and pull tight. Weave in ends.
FOOT PADS
SMALL CIRCLES (MAKE 6)
Using Yarn B, make a magic loop.
Rnd 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into
loop.
Rnd 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing on
the feet.
LONG FOOTPAD (MAKE 2) Use some white yarn from your stash to
Using Yarn B, make a magic loop. create a fluffy pompom for the bunny’s tail.
Rnd 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into
loop.
Rnd 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Rnd 3 (1dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times.
[18 sts]
Rnd 4 (2dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times.
[24 sts]
The rest of the footpad is worked in Rows.
Ch8.
Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook and each
ch across, ss into first st of Rnd 4, turn.
[7dc, 1ss]
Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each
dc across, turn. [7 dc]
Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each It’s all in the detail – the cute pink footpads
dc across, ss in next st of Rnd 4. [7 dc] are made up of just two simple shapes.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing on
the feet.
Sew the footpads onto the feet using the head behind the eyes, using the image as a
image as a guide. guide. Position the Head into the open end
of the Body and sew carefully into place.
TO MAKE UP Using the image as a guide, sew the arms
Fold the open end of each Ear in half, pin and feet into place on the body and finally
into place and sew onto the back of the add a white pompom for a tail.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO WORK A MAGIC LOOP

Working
yarn
Pull

Tail end

1 To start a Magic Loop, don’t
make a slipknot. Instead, make
a loop with the yarn, leaving a
tail around 10cm long. Make
sure the tail end is under the
working yarn.
2 Insert your hook into the
loop, from front to back. Wrap
the working yarn around the
hook anticlockwise and pull
the yarn through the loop.
3 Make a t-ch for the sts you
want to work (above, we
made 1 t-ch for dc). Now work
your sts into the Magic Loop,
making sure you work over
both the loop and the tail end
(so two yarn strands).
4 Once you’ve worked the
number of stitches you need,
simply pull the tail end of the
yarn to draw up the ring.
Work a slip stitch to join the
first and last stitches and
finish the first round.

Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 47

 Reader promotion

Make a hat or two…

We’re getting involved with innocent’s Big Knit campaign
to raise money for Age UK, and you can too!

very year, innocent’s Big Knit campaign recruits talented

E
crafters like you from all over the UK to make fun little hats for
smoothie bottles. This year, we’re helping innocent reach
their target of 2 million hats for the biggest bit knit ever. It’s fun,
it’s easy and it’s for a great cause.
For every behatted smoothie sold, the Big Knit campaign donates
25p to Age UK to help keep older people warm and well over winter.
The colder months can be tough for a lot of people – as many as
25,000 older people’s lives are at risk because of the cold. But we can
help and whether you’re new to crocheting hats or have made a
hundred before, it’s simple to get involved. Thanks to crocheters
and knitters like you, the Big Knit has raised over £1.9m so far.
You can find a wonderful selection of patterns to make on these
pages, and there are more on the Big Knit website. If you’re just
starting out, you can find a beginner hat pattern and how to videos
and instructions on the website – visit www.thebigknit.co.uk
Remember to look out for all the lovely little hats in the shops
from October 2017!

ABBREVIATIONS FOR ALL PATTERNS MEASUREMENTS
ch chain To fit an innocent smoothie
dc double crochet
dc2tog double crochet 2 stitches together HAT
ea each Ch2 using Yarn A.
htr half treble Work 6dc in second ch from hook and join in
rep repeat a circle with ss.
ss slip stitch
st(s) stitch(es) Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st
tr treble crochet throughout), 2dc in ea dc to end, join with
ss. [12 dc]
Round 2 Ch1, (dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc)
to end, join with ss. [18 dc]
Round 3 Ch1, (dc in next 2 dc, 2dc in next
dc) to end, join with ss. [24 dc]
Round 4 Ch1, dc in ea dc to end, join with ss.
Rounds 5-11 As Round 4.
Round 12 Work a round of dc from right to
left in an anti-clockwise direction to create
CUTE OWL a corded edge. Join with ss.
By Val Pierce. Fasten off.
YOU WILL NEED WINGS (MADE IN ONE PIECE)
Q Small amounts of any DK yarn Ch2 using Yarn B, 2dc in second ch from
Yarn A Light Grey hook, turn.
Yarn B Dark Grey Row 1 Ch1, 2dc in ea st to end, turn. [4 dc]
Yarn C Cream Row 2 Ch1, 2dc in first dc, dc in ea dc to last
Q Oddments of yellow yarn for beak st, 2dc in last dc, turn. [6 dc]
Q A 3.75mm (US F/5) Pony crochet hook Rows 3-7 Rep Row 2. [16 dc]
Q Small amount of toy stuffing Row 8 Ch3, dc in second ch from
Q 2 small buttons hook, dc in next ch, dc in ea dc to end, turn.
[18 dc]
TENSION Row 9 As Row 8. [20 dc]
Tension is not critical for this project Rows 10-11 Rep Row 2. [24 dc]
Row 12 Ss into first 5 dc, ch1, dc in st at base
of ch and in ea dc to last 4 dc, turn leaving
rem sts unworked. [16 dc]
Row 13 (Dc2tog) to end. [8 dc]
Row 14 (Dc2tog) to end. [4 dc]
Row 15 (Dc2tog) twice.
Fasten off.
EYES (MAKE 2)
Ch2 using Yarn C.
6dc in second ch from hook and join in a
circle with ss. [6 dc]
Round 1 Ch1, 2dc in ea dc to end, join with
ss. [12 dc]
Round 2 Ch1, (dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc)
to end, join with ss. [18 dc]
Fasten off.
TO MAKE UP
Attach the eye circles close together on the
front of the Body.
Stitch the Wings in place wrapping around
the back, stretching slightly to fit and secure
either side of the eyes using the picture as a
guide. Leave the two wing ends loose
Sew two tiny buttons onto the cream circle
eyes.
Use a small length of yellow and embroider
a beak.
Weave in all ends and trim.
Reader promotion
TORTOISE
By Val Pierce.
YOU WILL NEED
Q Small amounts of any DK yarn
Yarn A Brown
Yarn B Beige
Yarn C Dark Green
Q Oddments of black yarn
Q A 3.75mm (US F/5) Pony crochet hook
Q Small amount of toy stuffing
Q 2 black beads
TENSION
Tension is not critical for this project
HAT
Ch2 using Yarn A.
6dc in second ch from hook and join in a
circle with ss.
Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st
throughout), 2dc in ea dc to end, join with
ss. [12 dc]
Break Yarn A and join in Yarn B.
Round 2 Ch1, (dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc)
to end, join with ss. [18 dc]
Round 3 Ch1, (dc in ea of next 2 dc, 2dc in
next dc) to end, join with ss. [24 dc]
Round 4 Ch1, dc in ea dc to end, join with ss.
Rounds 5-9 As Round 4.
Fasten off Yarn B and join in Yarn C.
Round 10 Ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr in st at base
of ch, ss in next dc, (3tr in next dc, ss in next
dc) to end, join with ss. Fasten off.
HEAD
Stuff the Head as you go.
Ch2 using Yarn B.
6dc in second ch from hook and join in a
circle with ss.
Round 1 Ch1, 2dc in ea dc to end, join with
ss. [12 dc]
Round 2 Ch1, (dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc)
to end, join with ss. [18 dc]
Round 3 Ch1, dc in ea dc to end, join with ss.
Round 4 As Round 3.
Round 5 Ch1, (dc in next dc, dc2tog) to end,
join with ss. [12 dc]
Round 6 Ch1, (dc2tog) to end. [6 dc]
Fasten off leaving a 15cm tail for closing
the top and attaching the head. Stuff firmly
using the end of your crochet hook to help.
FEET (MAKE 4)
Ch3 using Yarn B.
Work 11tr into third ch from hook and join in
a circle with ss.
Fasten off leaving 15cm tail for attaching to
the Body.
Run the tail through the last round of sts
with a tapestry needle, add a tiny bit of
stuffing to pad lightly, draw up tightly to
form a ball. Secure.
Fasten off.
SHELL PATCHES (MAKE 4)
Ch2 using Yarn A.
6dc in second ch from hook and join in a
circle with ss. [6 dc]
Round 1 Ch1, 2dc in ea dc to end, join with
ss. [12 dc]
Fasten off Yarn A and join in Yarn B.
Round 2 Ch1, (dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc)
to end, join with ss. [18 dc]
Fasten off.
TO MAKE UP
Attach the Head to the front of the Body
then sew the patches neatly around the
outside of the shell. Sew one Foot to each
corner of the shell and a bead to each side of
the Head for eyes. Weave in all ends.
MINI BEEHIVE
By DMC Creative World.
YOU WILL NEED
Q Small amount of cotton 2ply yarn, cream
Q Small amounts of fine crochet thread in
red, white, black and yellow.
Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) Pony crochet hook
Q Small amount of toy stuffing
TENSION
Tension is not critical for this project
HAT
Round 1 Using cream, make a magic loop.
11dc into loop and continue working in a
spiral without closing each round with a ss.
Round 2 2dc into each dc around. [22 dc]
Round 3 *Dc in next 2 dc, 2dc in next dc; rep
from * to last st, dc in last st. [29 dc]
Rounds 4-11 Dc in back loop of each st
around. This creates the ridged effect of the
beehive.
Rounds 12-15 Ss in each st around.
Ss into next st and close.
BEE BODY
Round 1 Using yellow, ch2, 6dc in second
chain from the hook, ss into first st of round.
[6 dc]
Round 2 Ch1, 2dc into each st, ss into first st
of round. [12 dc]
Rounds 3-4 Using black, ch1, dc into every
stitch, ss into first st of round.
Rounds 5-6 Using yellow, ch1, dc into every
stitch, ss into first st of round.
Rounds 7-8 Using black, ch1, dc into every
stitch, ss into first st of round.
Change to yellow and work in a spiral, filling
bee with stuffing as you are working.
Rounds 9-11 Ch1, (dc2tog over next 2 sts)
rep until you have 1 stitch on your hook.
Weave in end to close.
Fasten off.
Embroider mouth using a small length of
black and work two French knots for eyes.
BEE WINGS (MAKE 2)
Round 1 Using white and working in a
spiral, ch2, 6dc in second chain from the
hook. [6 dc]
Round 2 (2dc into next st, dc into each of
next 2 sts), rep to end. [8 dc]
Fasten off.
Stitch wings onto centre back.
Weave in ends.
MINI FLOWERS (MAKE 2)
Using yellow, make a magic loop and work 6
dc into the ring.
Round 1 Using red, (ss, htr, ss) in each st
around. Ss to first st to join.
Fasten off.
TO MAKE UP
Thread a length of cream into the top of the
beehive.
Ch10 and carefully attach to the centre of
the yellow body of the bee in between the
wings.
Attach the flowers to the outside of the
beehive.
 Reader promotion

Meet the makers!

Say hello to the people behind some of
the Big Knit’s greatest hats.

Jo
“ I ’ m obsessed. I knit before work in the morning, in my lunch
break and in the evenings. I’ m rarely without my needles.”
Jo knitted a lot when she was younger, but had got out of the habit.
She’d do “an occasional baby jacket, but nothing really” — until she
found out about The Big Knit through Facebook in 2011. Since then,
there’s been no stopping her. She has made close friends through
knitting the little hats, and shares her knitting patterns with friends
online. Her favourite hat pattern? Ollie the Octopus. “I immediately fell
in love with him.”

Marjorie
“I like the Big Knit because it provides an income for Age
UK Bromley & Greenwich.”
Marjorie’s been knitting for 75 years. She attends local knitting
groups and always has her knitting with her, so she can whip up
a hat on the bus on the way to the shops. She’s knitted hundreds
over the years, including snowmen, cups of tea and owls, as well as
regular hats embellished with pompoms, bells and beads. These
days Marjorie goes into a school with her local Age UK and teaches
children to knit, something she loves to do.

Hina
“ T he Big Knit is a way to give back to the community, help
others and enjoy ourselves along the way.”
Hina is the director of Bluebird Care Lambeth. She introduced her
team to the Big Knit last year, and she’s even managed to get her
10-year-old son into knitting. Hina learned her skills from her mum,
who always used to make her sweaters – “with zig-zag patterns and
bobbles all over, my friends were always well jel”, she claims – and this
year she’s started early, recruiting all of her staff to create 100 little
hats using both crochet and knitting.

Sara
“The Big Knit is an idea that makes you smile. How can you
not smile at little hats on bottles?”
Sara was given her first set of knitting needles for her 18th birthday,
and still uses them now. She set up a knitting group at work five years
ago to contribute hats for The Big Knit, and over the years it’s been a
phenomenal success, knitting an incredible 25,000 hats. Sara’s hat
creations have included a rainbow, a courgette flower and even a VW
camper van (we’re seriously impressed). When not knitting hats, Sara
can be found tending to her growing menagerie of animals.
Reader promotion

Helping Age UK
Even if you only have time to knit one or two hats, every single
one will contribute towards helping the elderly.

s many as 25,000 older people’s

A lives are at risk because of the cold.

And innocent wanted to help. Back
in 2003 they had an idea, asking people to
knit little woolly hats. They put those hats
on their smoothies, and for each one sold
made a donation to Age UK.
innocent has put little hand-knitted hats
onto smoothie bottles for over 13 years
now, and in that time donated £1.9 million
to Age UK. This year, they’re aiming for an
enormous, record-breaking two million

“ The Bi g Knit ca mp a i gn co uld n’ t ha p p e n

hats to raise more money than ever before.

KEEPING IT LOCAL
All the hats for the Big Knit are knitted by w it h o ut t he s up p o rt o f t h o usa nds o f
real people who volunteer their time and
knitting skills to help make the campaign a a ma zing p e o p le a cross t he UK w h o t a ke
success. Lots of the hats are knitted by older
people in their local Age UK centres, who p a rt a nd knit w o o lly ha ts t o a d o rn
pledge to knit a certain number of hats, and
in return the money raised from their hats is
inno ce nt s mo o t hies ea ch yea r .”
given back to that specific centre so that
they can feel the direct benefit of their
Do uglas La mo nt , CEO a t inno ce nt
contribution. The campaign has raised vital
funds to support local and national winter
projects to help older people keep warm
and well in winter through befriending
visits, emergency cold weather support,
warm meals and other vital services.
Many of the other volunteers knit lots of
hats for innocent each year, and say that
they really look forward to the Big Knit
coming back around so that they can get
crocheting for Age UK all over again.
The Big Knit is also a great way to bring
people and communities together. Crochet
and crafting groups are a great way to get
people together to share patterns and have
a cup of tea or two!
Please put your hats in an envelope (or box!)
along with a note clearly stating how many
you’ve made, the date, and your name and
address, and send them to the address below.

The Big Knit 2017

innocent drinks
342 Ladbroke Grove
London Gemma Manning-Bentley of Gemmipop Designs in Oswestry visited Age UK Shropshire Telford
W10 5BU & Wrekin’s offices in Shrewsbury to deliver an early Christmas present of 3000 knitted hats!
 MB ISH AN OUTFIT

From the top

Crochet the ultimate handmade pompom for your
go-to woolly hat. Designed by Sara Huntington.

Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 53

 mb ish an outfit
EASY
PEASY
DK 3.5MM
WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
Q Perran Baby Alpaca Linen Silk DK
(50% alpaca, 25% silk, 25% other;
110g/250m), 1 skein of Ripples in
the Sand OR any DK yarn
Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Q Tapestry needle
For yarn stockists, contact
Perran Yarns
www.perranyarns.co.uk
MEASUREMENTS
Approx 13cm (5in) diameter
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 92
SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO MAKE A DOUBLE CROCHET
1 To make a double crochet
stitch, insert the hook under
the top two loops of the next
stitch on the previous row.
54 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
We all love a pompom (hats never quite
look right without them), but have you ever
tried crocheting one? This fun, frilly make
will help you add a much-needed hooky
touch to knits of any kind. How about using
it to top off a teacosy or add a bit of pizzazz
to a scarf or bag? The textured bobble uses
only double crochet stitches so it’s really
easy to hook but looks wonderfully fancy.
Flip across to page 4 to find more stylish,
beginner-friendly crochet projects.
BOBBLE
Ch 101.
Row 1 Dc in the second ch from the hook,
*ch9, 2dc in the second ch from the hook,
2dc in each of the 7 ch remaining, dc in the Any DK yarn will work for this, but try a
next ch of the original ch; repeat from * until variegated shade for maximum impact.
the last of the original ch has been worked,
then repeat from * once more omitting the
last dc.
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
SAVE OR
TO MAKE UP
SPLURGE
Roll up the piece and sew it into position as
you go.
Using a tapestry needle, sew the bobble For a more budget-friendly make, you
securely in place on a hat. could use the following yarn:
King Cole Cherish DK,
(100% anti-pilling acrylic, 100g/250m)
For yarn stockists contact King Cole
01756 703670 www.kingcole.com
2 Wind the yarn around the 3 Pull the yarn through the 4 Yarn round hook again, then
hook (yrh). stitch, giving you two loops pull the yarn through both
on your crochet hook. loops. There’s your double
crochet made and you’ll have
one loop left on the hook
ready to do the next stitch.
Win the yan to make the
winning project! Ente by hook to hook

Little loves
voting fo you fave on
Intagram #hooktohook

win
We challenged two designers to come up with a fab
design, each using the same yarn… which is your fave?

Vita Apala Jennifer Reid

Latvian-born but currently
living in Italy with her
husband and two children,
Vita believes that crochet
makes the world a better
place. She says “My kids
are my biggest inspiration.
They give me ideas about what they’d like me
to make, or I try to invent something functional
and more comfortable for them to wear. Yarn
is another huge inspiration and sometimes it’s
enough to hold a skein of yarn in my hands and I
already know what I’d like to make with it!” Head
to www.monpetitviolon.com for more from Vita.
British crochet designer
Jennifer is a self-confessed
yarn hoarder and, as a mum
of two, is no stranger to
designing cute things for
little ones. She told us “I
draw inspiration from many
places but am hugely influenced by vintage
textiles, lacework – anything delicate!
Vintage Dior, Prada and Matthew Williamson
have such timeless style and grace, they are my
go-tos!” Online, Jennifer can be found under the
MillieRoseUK moniker and you can shop for her
crochet patterns at www.millieroseUK.etsy.com

Made in association with Designer Yarns. For stockists

contact www.designeryarns.uk.com 01535 664222
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 55
hook to hook
Top left: The scarf sections have a cable-like texture. Bottom left: The body of the hat is worked in a striking wave pattern.
Right: Vita’s clever hat and scarf accessory is brimming with playful details and can be made in baby, toddler or child sizes.
All-in-one hat
A cosy hat and scarf combo with stripes
and playful texture to boot – we’re
smitten. Designed by Vita Apala.
Q Louisa Harding Trenzar yarn (35% wool,
30% lyocell, 23% alpaca, 12% acrylic,
100g/174m), 1 ball of each:
Yarn A Natural (311)
Yarn B Grass (314)
Yarn C Aqua (313)
Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook
TENSION
13sts and 8 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in)
over htr using 5mm hook or size needed to
obtain correct tension
MEASUREMENTS
Baby (Toddler: Child)
Size shown is the Toddler size.
Hat Circumference up to 41 (46: 51)cm/(16
(18: 20)in
Scarf Length 50 (60: 75)cm/20 (24: 30)in
ABBREVIATIONS
FPdtr Yrh twice, starting from the front,
insert hook from front to back to front
around the post of st in row below, complete
as for a double treble st
HAT
With Yarn A, ch20 (26: 32).
56 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
Row 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook, *htr in next
ch, tr in next ch, dtr in next ch, tr in next ch,
htr in next ch, dc in next ch; repeat from *
to end, turn. [19 (25: 31)sts]
Row 2 with Yarn B, ch4 (counts as first dtr),
*tr in next st, htr in next st, dc in next st, htr
in next st, tr in next st, dtr in next st; repeat
from * to end, turn.
Row 3 with Yarn C, ch1 (does not count as
st), dc in first st, *htr in next st, tr in next st,
dtr in next st, tr in next st, htr in next st, dc
in next st; rep from * to end, turn.
Rep Rows 2 and 3, changing colour each
row in the foll order: Yarn A, Yarn B, Yarn C,
until a total of 27 (30: 33) rows are
completed, do not fasten off.
Join last row to the foundation chain by
working a ss in each st through both layers
to form a tube.
Fasten off Yarn C.
Turn hat to the right side and with Yarn A
dc evenly around top edge of hat, ss to first
dc. Fasten off.
Rep with Yarn B around bottom edge of
hat, ss to first dc, do not fasten off.
SCARF
FIRST PART
Rows 1-2 with Yarn B, ch1 (does not count
as st throughout), htr in st at base of ch and
each of next 13 (15: 17)sts, turn.
[14(16: 18)sts]
Row 3 (RS) Ch1, htr in first st, htr in next 1
Psst
The hat i gath eed at
the top with a special
twited daw ting
(2: 1)sts, *skip next st, FPdtr around next
htr two rows below, leaving skipped st
behind dtr unworked, htr in each of next 3
sts; rep from * 2 (2: 3) more times, Toddler
size only: htr in last st, turn. [14 (16: 18)sts]
Row 4 (WS) Ch1, htr in each st to end, turn.
Rep (Rows 3 and 4) 8 (10: 12) more times
with Yarn B, 6 (8: 10) more times with Yarn
C and 4 (4: 6) more times with Yarn A, or
until desired length, do not fasten off.
Next row (RS) Ch1, htr in first st, (skip next
st, htr in next st) repeat to last st, htr in last
st, turn. [8 (9: 10) sts]
Next row Skip 3 (4: 4) sts, 8 (8: 10)dtr in
next st, skip next 3 (3: 4)sts, ss in last st.
Fasten off.
SECOND PART
Working on wrong side and starting with
next st from seam of hat, rep all rows of
Scarf – First Part.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
TWISTED CORD
Cut approx 2m long strand of Yarn A.
Attach it exactly in the middle to a hook or
a door handle. Begin twisting each strand
of yarn using your fingers. The tighter the
yarns are twisted, the firmer the finished
cord will be, but this will also reduce the
finished length.
Holding the cord in the centre with one
hand, bring both ends of the cord tog.
 hook to hook

Left: Jennifer’s cardigan is worked from the bottom up, so you’ll tackle the colourwork first. Inset: The main body of the cardi is worked in
a pretty stripe sequence. Right: Jennifer sketched out a few different ideas for her Hook to Hook make before settling on the final design.

Allow 2 halves to twist tog.
Smooth out cord. Knot ends tog and trim.
Pass the cord through the sts of top of hat,
pull both ends as tight as possible and tie a
bow with it.
For hearts, wind off separate small balls of
Yarn C for each heart. Carry Yarn A across
WS of the work between hearts.
For heart pattern, see Chart on p93. On the
Chart each square represents 1dc st.
When changing colour mid-row, twist the
Fasten off. [48 (50: 52: 54) dc]
Row 2 (WS) Join Yarn A in first st, ch1 (does
not count as st throughout), dc in each dc
across, turn.
Rows 3-9 Ch1, dc in 0 (1: 2: 3) sts, follow
Chart working in rows of dc and repeating

Sweetheart Cardigan
ends of the two colours tog. Pick up new each row of Chart four times, using Yarn A
colour in last yrh of prev st. as the main yarn and Yarn C for hearts, dc
in 0 (1: 2: 3) sts. [48 (50: 52: 54) dc]
Challenge yourself with intarsia and BACK Row 10 Using Yarn A, dc in each st across,
tapestry crochet. It’s so worth it for those With Yarn B, ch49 (51: 53: 55). turn. Fasten off.
picture-perfect hearts. By Jenny Reid. Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and Row 11 Join Yarn B in first st, ch1, dc in
Q Louisa Harding Trenzar (35% wool, each chain across, turn. each dc across, turn.
30% lyocell, 23% alpaca, 12% acrylic,
100g/174m), Yarn A Natural (311), Yarn B
Grass (314) and Yarn C Aqua (313) AGE (YEARS) 2-3 3-4 4-5 5-6
For yarn quantities and measurements cm 56 59 61 64
see table TO FIT CHEST
in 22 23¼ 24 25¼
Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook
Q 1 button 3cm (1¼in) diameter cm 64 66 69 72
ACTUAL CHEST
Q Tapestry needle in 25¼ 26 27 28¼
cm 39 41 43 45
TENSION LENGTH
15 sts and 10 rows to meas 10x10cm (4x4in) in 15¼ 16 17 17¾
over st pattern using a 5mm hook, or size cm 24 28 32 36
needed to obtain correct tension SLEEVE LENGTH
in 9½ 11 12½ 14
NOTES YARN A NATURAL 100g 1 2 2 2
The cardigan is made bottom up in YARN B GRASS 100g 1 2 2 2
separate pieces for Fronts, Back and
Sleeves. The bottom panel of cardigan is YARN C AQUA 100g 1 2 2 2
worked using intarsia and tapestry crochet To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the
techniques. relevant column.

Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 57

hook to hook

Left: Check the sizing chart on page 57 to

figure out which size you need to make your
cardigan. Right: The stripes are worked in a
two-row pattern repeat, changing colour in
sequence every row.

Row 12 Ch1, dc in each dc across, turn.
Row 13 Join Yarn A in first st, ch1, dc in first 1
(2: 3: 4) sts, *(dc in next st, skip next st, 3tr in
next st, skip next st, dc in next st) twice, dc in
next 2 sts; repeat from * across to last 11 (12:
13: 14) sts, (dc in next st, skip next st, 3tr in
next st, skip next st, dc in next st) twice, dc in
next 1 (2: 3: 4) sts, turn.
Fasten off.
Row 14 Join Yarn C in first st, ch3 (counts as
tr), tr in next 0 (1: 2: 3) sts, *(tr in next st, ch1,
skip next st, dc in next st, ch1, skip next st, tr
in next st) twice, tr in next 2 sts; repeat from *
a
c
across to last 11 (12: 13: 14) sts, *(tr in next st,
ch1, skip next st, dc in next st, ch1, skip next
st, tr in next st) twice, tr in next 1 (2: 3: 4) sts,
turn.
Fasten off.
Rows 13 and 14 set pattern.
Rows 15-44 (46: 48: 50) Rep Rows 13-14
changing colour each row in the foll
sequence: Yarn B, Yarn A, Yarn C.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
RIGHT FRONT
With Yarn B, ch25 (26: 27: 28).
Rows 1-2 Work as for Rows 1-2 of Back.
[24 (25: 26: 27) sts]
Row 3 and each odd row to Row 9 Ch1, dc
in 0 (1: 1: 1) sts, follow Chart, working in rows
of dc and repeating each row of the Chart
twice, using Yarn A as the main yarn and Yarn
C for the hearts, dc in 0 (0: 1: 2) sts, turn.
Fasten off.
Row 14 Join Yarn C in first st, ch3 (counts as
tr), *(tr in next st, ch1, skip next st, dc in next
st, ch1, skip next st, tr in next st) twice, tr in
next 2 sts; rep from * across to last 11 (12: 13:
14) sts, *(tr in next st, ch1, skip next st, dc in
next st, ch1, skip next st, tr in next st) twice, tr
in next 1 (2: 3: 4) sts, turn.
Fasten off.
Rows 13 and 14 set pattern.
Cont in patt as set until you have worked Row
37 (39: 41: 43)
Next row (WS) Work in patt across first 11
(12: 13: 14) sts, turn leaving rem sts unworked,
Fasten off.
Cont working in patt on these 11 (12: 13: 14)
sts only for a further 6 rows.
Fasten off.
LEFT FRONT

Row 4 and each even row to Row 8 Ch1, dc
in 0 (0: 1: 2) sts, follow Chart, working in rows
of dc and repeating each row of the Chart
twice, using Yarn A as the main yarn and Yarn
b
C for the hearts, dc in 0 (1: 1: 1) sts, turn.
a: 30 (33: 34: 37: 41)cm Rows 10-12 Work as for Rows 10-12 of Back.
11¾ (13: 13¼: 14½: 16)in Row 13 Join Yarn A in first st, ch1, dc in first 1
b: 31.5 (34: 36.5: 39: 41.5)cm (2: 3: 4) sts, *(dc in next st, skip next st, 3tr in
12½ (13¼: 14¼: 15¼: 16¼)in next st, skip next st, dc in next st) twice, dc in
c: 38 (41: 48: 53: 56)cm next 2 sts; repeat from * across to last 11 sts,
15 (16: 19: 20¾: 22)in (dc in next st, skip next st, 3tr in next st, skip
next st, dc in next st) twice, dc in last st, turn.
With Yarn B, ch25 (26: 27: 28).
Rows 1-2 Work as for Rows 1-2 of Back.
[24 (25: 26: 27) sts]
Row 3 and each odd row to Row 9 Ch1, dc
in 0 (0: 1: 2) sts, follow Chart, working in rows
of dc and repeating each row of the Chart
twice, using Yarn A as the main yarn and Yarn
C for the hearts, dc in 0 (1: 1: 1) sts, turn.
Row 4 and each even row to Row 8 Ch1, dc
in 0 (1: 1: 1) sts, follow Chart, working in rows
of dc and repeating each row of Chart twice,
using Yarn A as the main yarn and Yarn C for

58 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Left: To make sure you get these cute heart shapes just right, play close attention to the chart on page 93. Right: This cardigan only needs one
button, so it’s the perfect opportunity to raid your stash for something a bit different. Make sure it’s sturdy enough for little fingers though.
hearts, dc in 0 (0: 1: 2) sts, turn.
Rows 10-12 Work as for Rows 10-12 of Back.
Row 13 Join Yarn A in first st, ch1, dc in first
st, *(dc in next st, skip next st, 3tr in next st,
skip next st, dc in next st) twice, dc in next 2
sts; rep from * across to last 11 (12: 13: 14) sts,
(dc in next st, skip next st, 3tr in next st, skip
next st, dc in next st) twice, dc in last 1 (2: 3:
4) sts, turn. Fasten off.
Row 14 Join Yarn C in first st, ch3 (counts as
tr), tr in next 0 (1: 2: 3) sts, *(tr in next st, ch1,
skip next st, dc in next st, ch1, skip next st, tr
in next st) twice, tr in next 2 sts; rep from *
across to last 11 sts, *(tr in next st, ch1, skip
next st, dc in next st, ch1, skip next st, tr in
next st) twice, tr in next last st, turn.
Fasten off.
Rows 13 and 14 set pattern.
Cont in patt as set until you have worked Row
37 (39: 41: 43)
Next row (WS) Join yarn in the 11 (12: 13: 14)
th st from armhole edge and continue in patt
across these sts, turn.
Fasten off.
Cont working in patt on these 11 (12: 13: 14)
sts only for a further 6 rows.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
SLEEVES (MAKE 4)
Each Sleeve is worked in two pieces and
seamed tog at underarm seam and along top
of Sleeve from shoulder to wrist.
Each piece is worked from bottom
(underarm) to top.
The stripe sequence of the 14 (14: 16: 16) patt
Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
rows on Sleeves needs to match the stripe
sequence at top of Body piece, so count back
14 (14: 16: 16) rows from top of Body to work
out the starting colour of the Sleeve.
With the appropriate yarn, ch37 (43: 49: 55).
Row 1 (WS) Dc in second ch from hook and
in each ch to end, turn and cont in this yarn
for first patt row as follows.
[36 (42: 48: 54) sts]
Row 2 Ch1, *(dc in next st, skip next st, 3tr in
next st, skip next st, dc in next st) twice, dc in
next 2 sts; rep from * 2 (2: 3: 3) more times,
cont in patt as set on rem 0 (6: 0: 6) sts, turn.
Fasten off, change yarn.
Row 3 Work a tr in each dc (replacing the beg
tr with ch-3), and (ch1, skip next st, dc in next
st, ch1, skip next st) above each 3-tr group to
end, turn.
Fasten off, change yarn.
Rows 2 and 3 set patt.
TRENZAR BY LOUISA HARDING
Seeking a special aran weight yarn with
oodles of character? Look no further than
Trenzar by Louisa Harding. This scrummy
plied yarn has a two-tone look, a pleasing
twisted texture and a luxurious feel. It’s a
clever blend of wool, alpaca and synthetic
Hook to hook
Cont in patt for a further 12 (12: 14: 14) rows,
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Sew 2 pieces WS tog along the top edge only
to make each Sleeve.
TO MAKE UP
Join shoulder seams at Right and Left
shoulder, matching st for st.
Align Sleeve seam with shoulder seam, and
match the stripes to sew each Sleeve to Body.
Sew underarm and side seams.
Sew button to Left Front, using the ch-sp in
pattern as a buttonhole.
For stockist details contact Designer
Yarns www.designeryarns.uk.com or call
01535 664222.
fibres, resulting in a super-soft yarn that’s
wonderfully warm and begging to be
hooked with. There are 16 pretty shades to
choose from in a palette
that boasts wearable
jewel brights and
delicate pastels.
It’s safe to say
we’re sold.
W W.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 59
 GOOD READ
Photo © Lissarie Photography

“My online crochet

community has been
extremely supportive.”

REPEAT CRAFTER ME
US designer Sarah Zimmerman tells us how she fell in love with hooks and yarn.

C
rochet began as a means to an end for
Sarah Zimmerman after she gave birth
to her second son, but she had no idea
of the journey it would take her on.
“Crochet hats and props for newborn
photoshoots were trending around the birth
of my second son,” she comments. “I’ve
always been craftsy and wanted to create a
few crocheted accessories for my baby boy.”
Sarah set herself the task of teaching
herself to crochet, and started by going to
her local craft store and picking up beginner
supplies. “Back at home I searched YouTube
for additional tutorials and instruction.
Surprisingly, I caught on quickly and in a
short amount of time created my first hat!”
Sarah swiftly fell in love with her new skills,
which were joining a whole stable of other
crafty talents. “When I became a stay-at-
home mom, I loved doing crafty projects
with my boys,” she says. “I would make fun
food creations, set up themed arts and craft
projects, and then when I learned to crochet,
I had really found an additional outlet to my
creativity that I wanted to share with others.”
TOOTING THE CROCHET HORN
By this time, Sarah had happily been dipping
into what she calls ‘mom blogs’. “I decided to
set up my own blog as a way to share the
things I was doing at home with others who
would be interested and inspired.”
Right from the start, Sarah’s Repeat Crafter
Me blog (www.repeatcrafterme.com)
contained a cheerful mix of recipes, crafts,
and snippets of family life, making it a lovely
place to drop by and hang around. On 19
October 2011, Sarah wrote her first blog post
about her love of crochet. “I don’t want to
toot my own horn, but I’m feeling pretty
good about the fact that I taught myself how
to crochet less than a month ago,” she typed.
“Who knew crocheting was so easy-peasy?”
The speed at which Sarah developed her
crochet skills is pretty exceptional, and in
next to no time she was creating her own
designs. Her existing abilities certainly
helped: she graduated from the University of
Washington with a degree in Visual Arts, and
worked as a graphic designer for six years.
“I credit my background in visual arts and
graphic design as one of the main reasons my
crochet has been so popular,” she says. “It’s
given me an eye for colour and the ability to

60 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
Photo © Lissarie Photography
create clean, fun and cute designs. Plus my
extensive knowledge of Photoshop and
Illustrator has been an immense help when it
comes to the behind-the-scenes blog work.”
The beauty of Repeat Crafter Me is that
Sarah is showcasing the projects and
patterns she loves to work on herself. “I
always take pride in my cute crochet hats,
but have recently been including a lot of
graphgan designs and smaller projects like
crochet pouches and amigurumi to my
pattern collection,” she enthuses. In case you
were wondering, graphgans are afghan
blankets making use of gorgeous graphic
design motifs. It’s a preference that harks
directly back to Sarah’s past profession.
Favourite techniques include corner-to-
corner crochet. “With a pixel graph pattern
you can incorporate any picture or image
into your crochet,” Sarah says. “I gravitate
towards worsted weight yarn and am
currently loving the Bernat Super Value line
because of the vast colour choices.”
Choosing the right tools for the job is also
important to Sarah. “Susan Bates’ Size H has
always been my go-to crochet hook,” she
says. “Lately I’ve enjoyed purchasing custom
polymer clay hooks from Etsy because of the
comfort of the handles and beautiful designs
that they offer. In addition, you won’t find me
without a crochet tote bag in tow and a nice
fabric toolkit with lots of pockets and slots for
my hooks, needles, scissors and markers.”
A GROWING TRIBE
Despite her natural talent and professional
eye, Sarah owns up to some occasional
imperfections, but takes these in her stride.
“Of course, I constantly make mistakes,” she
says. “That’s part of the process of being a
pattern designer. Sometimes I spend several
days or even weeks reworking a pattern to
get it right. And even if a published pattern
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GOOD READ
has an error, I’ve found that my online autumn 2016. “I am working on its promotion
crochet community has been extremely at the moment and hope that more
supportive and understanding.” opportunities to publish my work present
This attitude is especially helpful given themselves,” she explains. “Of course, I’ll
that Sarah is now mum to three children, continue posting my free patterns and
having given birth to her daughter Zoe in tutorials on Repeat Crafter Me.”
2013. This means she needs to fit all her It all comes back to the fact that Sarah
creative work around their needs. “Becoming adores the multi-purpose nature of crochet.
a full-time blogger on “You can create
top of my most
important job of being “CROCHET IS VERY VERSATILE, anything the heart
desires,” she says.
a full-time mom isn’t
AND YOU CAN BRING ANY DESIGN “Crochet is very
TO LIFE THAT YOU LIKE.”
easy,” she admits. “It’s versatile, and with
a lot of work – I’m knowledge of the
always multi-tasking.” basics, you can bring
This includes making time to read through any design to life you like – whether that’s
a few carefully selected craft blogs. “I have animal hats, amigurumi or accessories.”
quite a few fellow crochet and craft bloggers With all that stitching going on, we’re not
that I network with and keep in touch with on at all surprised to learn that Sarah’s yarn
a daily basis,” she says. “I’m blessed to have collection is quietly taking over the family
met so many wonderful people since I home. “Most of my crocheting is done at
started my blog! Among my favourites you’ll night after the kids are in bed,” she says.
find Petals to Picots (www.petalstopicots. “I have a stash next to my bedside table. I also
com), Happy Hour Projects (www. have a large stash downstairs by my crochet
happyhourprojects.com), Seven Alive (www. chair, in case I get a chance to do some
seven-alive.com), and It Happens In A Blink daytime crochet. Whenever I get an idea,
(www.ithappensinablink.com).” I tend to stop whatever I’m doing and pick up
Sarah reached a very exciting crochet my hook and yarn, so I like to keep my
milestone last year when her debut book, crafting tools close by at all times!”
Corner-to-Corner Crochet, came out in Written by Judy Darley.
A few of her favourite things
When Sarah puts down her hook...
“I love family time. We live in Southern California so we have the
benefit of the nice weather and being able to take the kids to
Disneyland and Legoland and other fun parks and attractions
around the area. I always make sure to put down my crochet in
favour of spending time with my husband and my kids!”
Visit Sarah’s website at www.repeatcrafterme.com, where you can
find free patterns and tutorials, plus crockpot recipes.
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 61
 GOOD READ
LEARN THE LINGO
Our essential guide to crochet slang. By Becca Parker.
Any crocheter worth their salt
needs to know their WIPs from
their CALs and how to use them.
Confused already? Fear not. Here’s
our foolproof run-down of the top
crochet slang and phrases you
might encounter at a stitch night, online or here in
Simply Crochet. Think of it as your hooky cheat
sheet. You’ll be fluent in no time.
CAL (ACRONYM) Crochet-along. When crafters are
invited to complete the same pattern, sometimes
within a specified time period, often stage by
stage. It’s a good challenge and fosters fuzzy
feelings of community among participants. Psst!
Check our Pick ‘n’ Mix blanket CAL on p30.
C2C (ABBREVIATION) Corner-to-corner – an
easy-peasy diagonal crochet technique.
DESTASH (VERB) Sorting your stash in order to
swap, sell, donate or discard unwanted yarns.
FROG (VERB) Frogging is the act of undoing your
crochet, so-called because you ‘rip-it, rip-it’ like the
onomatopoeic frog’s ‘ribbit ribbit’ sound. E.g.
I went wrong in the first round so I’m frogging it.
FO (ACRONYM) Finished Object. You may see UFO
(Unfinished Object). E.g. So proud of my latest FO!
HOTH (ACRONYM) Hot Off The Hook
62 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
Left: Talking crochet with the Craftmoji app. Right: Our Pick ’n’ Mix CAL.
LYS (ACRONYM) Local Yarn Store
STASH (NOUN) This is the name given to your
ever-growing collection of yarn and/or craft
supplies. E.g. Use any yellow DK from your stash.
STASHBUSTING (NOUN) The practice of
intentionally making things using yarn from your
stash in an attempt to tame it. Beware, this can
become a lengthy endeavour, depending on the
magnitude of said yarn stash.
SABLE (ACRONYM) Stash Accumulation Beyond
Life Expectancy. The struggle is real.
TREBLEMAKER (NOUN) A term given to gutsy
crocheters. It’s a play on the word troublemaker
and can be used interchangeably with hookster or,
if you’re feeling extra cheeky, hooker. E.g. Join our
online community by sharing your Simply Crochet
makes with our hashtag #SCtreblemaker.
WIP (ACRONYM) Work-in-progress
YARN BOMB (VERB) The act of decorating public
places with crochet or knitting, sometimes
covertly. This art form is also known as yarn graffiti
or yarn storming. Notable yarn bombers include
Deadly Knitshade and Olek.
Have we missed anything? What else would you
add to this list? Tweet us! We’re @SimplyCrochet_
 R a is e d d i a moe
nr
da
snew stitch and how to use it in every
Discov
SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS
Front Post double treble (FPdtr) Yrh twice,
starting from the front, insert hook from
front to back to front around the post of st
in row below, complete as a double treble
st.
Front Post double treble 2 together
(FPdtr2tog) *Yrh twice, insert hook from
front to back to front around the post of st
indicated, yrh and pull up loop, [yrh and
draw through 2 loops] twice; rep from *
once more inserting hook around post of
next st indicated, yrh and draw through all
loops on hook.
Pattern Front post double treble 2
together (PFPdtr2tog) *Yrh twice, insert
hook from front to back to front around the
post of post st to the right 2 rows below, yrh
and pull up loop, [yrh and draw through 2
loops] twice; rep from * once more inserting
hook around post of post st to the left 2
rows below, yrh and draw through all loops
on hook.
NOTES
When working dc on Rows 3, 5 and 7 always
work behind the FPdtr sts. Each post st on
issue.
these rows counts as a st, so there will be a
treble st of the previous row which remains
unworked for each post st in these rows. All
other sts in these rows are worked in dc.
BASIC RAISED DIAMOND PATTERN
See Chart on p93.
Chain a multiple of 4, plus 1.
Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, dc in
each ch to end, turn.
Row 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), skip st at base of
beg ch-3, tr in each st to end, turn.
Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), skip st at
base of ch and next st, FPdtr around next st,
dc in next 3 sts with the centre st of these in
the same st as post just worked, *FPdtr2tog
with the first ‘leg’ around the post of the
previous post st, skip posts of next 3 sts and
work second ‘leg’ around post of next st, dc
in next 3 sts, with the centre st of these in
the same st as second worked post; rep
from * to end, turn.
Row 4 Ch3 (counts as tr), skip st at base of
beg ch-3, tr in each dc and each post stitch,
turn.
Row 5 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each
of first 2 tr, (PFPdtr2tog, dc in next 3 sts with
the centre st of these in line with the head of
the post st 2 rows below) rep to last 2 sts,
FPdtr around post of post st to the right 2
rows below, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn.
Row 6 As Row 4.
Row 7 Ch1 (does not count as st), FPdtr
around post of post st to the left 2 rows
below, dc in next 3 sts with the centre st of
these in the same st as post just worked,
(PFPdtr2tog, dc in next 3 sts with the centre
st of these in line with the head of the post
st 2 rows below) rep to end, turn.
Row 8 As Row 4.
Rows 5-8 form pattern.
On the sample, pattern ends on a Row 7 and
is finished with a row of dc.
Patterns by Kath Webber
Tun the page fo
moe ceative idea to
ue thi patten
A cuppa, a cosy corner
and a stack of books is
blissful, but it would be
even better with these
textured accessories.

Fringed Bookmark
You’ll be marking your place in your latest
read the old-fashioned way with this little
make. It’s a very small project, but the
geometric texture, dreamy variegated
yarn and playful fringing make it fun to
hook. Why stop at just one?
Q Scheepjes Spirit (56% cotton, 46% acrylic,
50g/210m), 1 ball of Turtle (308)
For yarn stockists, contact
www.scheepjes.com
Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
TENSION
23 sts and 16 rows measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over
pattern using a 3.5mm hook or size needed to
obtain correct tension
MEASUREMENTS
19x4cm (7½x1½in)
BOOKMARK
Ch41.
Work Rows 1-5 as given for Basic Pattern.
Rows 6-7 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in
each st to end, turn.
Fasten off, do not sew in ends.
TO FINISH
Make the fringing as follows: *cut 2 lengths
of yarn approx 10cm long.
Fold in half lengthwise, insert hook into row
end, place folded yarn on hook, pull loops
through, yrh with ends of yarn, pull through
and tighten.
Repeat from * along the row ends.
Trim all ends to same length, using the
image as a guide.
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Glasses case
Keep your reading glasses in a stylish case
handmade with masses of specs appeal.
Q Scheepjes Spirit (56% cotton, 46% acrylic,
50g/210m), 1 ball of Turtle (308)
Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Q 1.5cm (½in) wooden button
TENSION
As for Bookmark
MEASUREMENTS
17x7.5cm (6¾x3in)
GLASSES CASE
Ch37.
Rows 1-8 Work as given for Basic Pattern.
Repeat (Rows 5-8) four more times.
Repeat Row 5 once more.
Row 35 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in
each st to end, turn.
Row 36 Ch1 (does not count as dc), dc in
each of next 18 sts, ch5 for button loop, dc
in each of next 18 sts.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
TO FINISH
Place piece flat with WS uppermost and
Row 1 at bottom. Fold bottom row up,
leaving around 2.5cm (1in) at the top for the
flap. With RS facing, attach yarn to one
corner. Working through both layers of
fabric, make 14 dc into row ends/raw edge
of fold to create a strong seam.
Repeat on opposite side.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Use a short length of yarn and embroidery
needle to sew button on to match the loop.
N w stitch
Earphone pouch
This dinky envelope-shaped case will
help keep your earphones tidied away
and tangle-free. It makes a thoughtful
handmade gift for music-lovers, too.
Q Scheepjes Spirit (56% cotton, 46% acrylic,
50g/210m), 1 ball of Turtle (308)
Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Q 1.5cm (½in) wooden button
Q Sewing needle and thread
TENSION
23 sts and 16 rows measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over
pattern using a 3.5mm hook or size needed to
obtain correct tension
MEASUREMENTS
7x7cm (2¾x2¾in)
EARPHONE CASE
Using Turtle, ch21.
Rows 1-8 Work as given for Basic Pattern.
Repeat (Rows 5-8) once more.
Repeat Row 5 once more.
Row 15 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in
each st to end, ch5 for the button loop,
rotate piece to work along row ends, dc
evenly across to next corner.
Fasten off, leaving a 20cm (8in) tail.
TO FINISH
Place the square flat with the WS
uppermost. Fold 3 corners into the centre of
the square, leaving the corner with the
button loop unfolded.
Using the long tail, whip stitch the row ends
together to create a small envelope.
Sew the button onto the centre of the fold.
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 65
April showers
Colourful spike stitch details create mesmerising
raindrop effects in Kirsten Ballering’s blanket.

EASY
PEASY
DK 4.5MM
WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
Q Scheepjes Stonewashed (78%
cotton, 22% acrylic, 50g/130m),
8 balls of: Yarn A Moon Stone
(801) 1 ball of each:
Yarn B Carnelian (823)
Yarn C Coral (816)
Yarn D Lemon Quartz (812)
Yarn E Canada Jade (806)
Yarn F Green Agate (815)
Yarn G Blue Apatite (805)
Yarn H Deep Amethyst (811)
Yarn I Corundum Ruby (808)
Yarn J Rose Quartz (820)
Q A 4.5mm (US 7) hook
For yarn stockists contact
Scheepjes www.scheepjes.com
TENSION
15 htr and 12 Rows to measure
10x10cm (4x4in) over htr using a
4.5m hook
Tension is not critical but will affect
yarn quantities and finished
measurements
MEASUREMENTS
Blanket measures 99x84cm
(39x33in)
ABBREVIATIONS
Spike Group Skip next htr, *yrh,
insert hook in top of st 4 rows below,
draw up loop, yrh and draw through
all loops on hook (1st Spike St), htr in
next htr, skip next htr; rep from *
inserting hook 3 rows below, rep
from * once again inserting hook 2
rows below [3 Spike Sts made]
For a full list, see page 92
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Baby b ank t
They look pretty impressive, but there’s no
need to be wary of spike stitches as they’re
not difficult to do. In fact, they work an
absolute treat in this baby blanket to create
rainbow droplets. The striking jewel tones
of the super-soft Stonewashed DK yarn by
Scheepjes make the project feel even more
special. Grab your hook and dive right in.
BLANKET
Using Yarn A, ch120. The spike stitches are worked even across
Row 1 (WS) Htr in the third ch from the the blanket so the colours are balanced.
hook and each ch across, turn. [119 htr]
Rows 2-5 Ch2 (counts as htr throughout),
htr in each st across, turn.
Fasten off.
Row 6 (RS) Join Yarn B in the first st, ch2, htr
in next 2 sts, (Spike Group, htr in next 7 sts) 9
times, Spike Group, htr in last 3 sts, turn.
Fasten off.
Row 7 Join Yarn A in the first st, ch2, htr in
each st across, turn.
Rows 8-11 Ch2 (counts as htr throughout),
htr in each st across, turn. Four simple half treble rounds in four
Fasten off. different shades make up the border.
Row 12 Join Yarn C in the first st, ch2, htr in
next 8 sts, (Spike Group, htr in next 7 sts) 9
times, htr in last 2 sts, turn. Round 3 Join Yarn E in the first st, ch2, htr in
Fasten off. next st, 3htr in corner st, htr in each st
Row 13 Join Yarn A in the first st, ch2, htr in around, working 3htr into centre htr of 3-htr
each st across, turn. corner groups, ss to the top of the
Rows 14-17 Ch2 (counts as htr throughout), beginning ch-3 to join.
htr in each st across, turn. Fasten off.
Fasten off. Round 4 Join Yarn F in first st, ch2, htr in
next 2 sts, 3htr in corner st, htr in each st
Repeat rows (6-17) 8 more times, using a around, working 3htr into centre htr of 3-htr
different contrast colour for each Spike row, corner groups, ss to the top of the
working from the list of yarns in order beginning ch-3 to join.
starting with Yarn D. Fasten off and weave in all ends.
BORDER
Continuing with Yarn A and working from
the RS:
Round 1 Ch2 (counts as htr), 2htr in st at
base of ch, htr in each st across to last st,
3htr in last st, rotate the blanket to work into
row ends, htr in each row end across to next
corner, rotate the blanket to work into
starting ch, 3htr in first ch, htr in each ch
across to last ch, 3htr in last ch, rotate the
blanket to work into row ends, htr in each
row end across to first st, ss to the top of the
beginning ch-2 to join.
Fasten off.
Round 2 Join Yarn D in the first st, ch2, 3htr
in corner st, htr in each st around, working
3htr into centre htr of 3-htr corner groups, ss
to the top of the beginning ch-3 to join.
Fasten off.
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 67
Yarn power
Next time you find yourself craving a new ball to
bump up your stash, consider how the yarns you
choose to buy can make all the difference.

W
hen buying yarn, our love of
texture and colour often takes
over, but have you thought about
how your purchases could improve the lives
of others? Across the world, skilled artisans,
many of whom are women, depend on the
income they make from yarn they card, spin
and dye. We speak to the people who have
sought out ways to support the livelihoods
of people all around the world, while
producing exceptionally beautiful yarns.
GOOD INTENTIONS
Susan Inglis was moved to found From The
Mountain Sources (www.fromthemountain.
com) after falling in love with Afghan
cashmere yarns and discovering the plight
faced by many families in the country. “I love
the way the yarn feels. I love the colours. I love
using every scrap of it,” she enthuses. “Most of
all, I love my connection to the hands that
spun it, my fingers running over the same
fibres the spinner’s fingers ran along as she
was making the yarn.”
These 100% cashmere yarns provide
sustainable livelihoods for women in
Afghanistan. “Cashmere is a valuable
commodity,” says Susan. “In a war-torn
country where opium poppies have long
served as a major cash crop, cashmere is an
important alternative.
“We want
Fortunately the country
has many cashmere
to create a
goats in rural areas.”
Julie Colquitt
sustainable
established Yarn Yarn
(www.yarnyarn.co.uk) in
cycle of
2008 after falling for sari
silk yarn and discovering
that of tons of silk waste
goes to landfill every
year. “Not only do Indian
employment.”
sari silk yarns offer a
remarkable spectrum of colour and texture,
but the ethical properties excited me,” she
says. “These are handmade unique yarns
made by women from waste in very poor
areas of India. It’s a win-win situation!”
Julie sources the silk waste from Indian sari
mills, which local artisans then spin into
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GOOD READ
gorgeous yarns. This provides a vital income
as well as helping skills to thrive. As Julie
states on the Yarn Yarn website: “We want to
create a sustainable cycle of employment
and women’s empowerment. If we continue
to buy these products, these villages
continue to survive.”
Manos del Uruguay (www.manosyarns.
com) was founded in 1968 by Manila Ch. De
Vivo, Olga Artagaveytia, Sara Beisso, Dora
Muñoz and Maria del Carmen Bocking. “They
were ranch owners who shared the goal of
creating jobs for the hundreds of skilled
craftswomen in Uruguay’s countryside,” says
Cecilia Lelanne from the company.
The initial idea was to
market the handicrafts
of women “whose skills,
creativity and working
potential was wasted.
The founders wanted
an organisation that
was not only for the
women but also by the
women, so the idea of
co-operatives was there
from the start.”
Getting Manos to
where it is today took a lot of work, faith and
enthusiasm, Cecilia tells us, “as well as lots of
training and support, plus the efforts of
countless volunteers.”
The Mirasol Yarn Collection (www.mirasol.
com) supports the Mirasol School, which is
an initiative of Michell & Cia and yarn
Mirasol alpacas in Peru. Left: Manos
Yarn dyeing in Fraile Muerto.
distributors in the US, Canada, UK and
Scandinavia. Their aim is to improve the
education of the children in the Muñani area
of Puno, Peru. Raul Rivera is Marketing
Manager at Michell, the leading alpaca yarn
spinner in Peru. “We’re always involved in
activities in the Peruvian Highlands, since
that’s where all the alpaca breeding happens
in Peru and where we obtain our fibre,” he
says. “Michell currently buy between 55 to
60% of the Peruvian alpaca clip.”
FAC I N G U P TO C H A L L E N G E S
The ongoing war in Afghanistan continues to
create challenges for Susan. “There are few
roads in Afghanistan and when one closes it
causes a severe interruption of supply for us,”
she says. “At the moment, fighting in Kunduz
is particularly problematical, but the
problems it causes our business are nothing
compared with the problems for the citizens
of that province!”
The co-operative nature of Manos means
that artisans maintain their independence,
but this required a steep learning curve.
“They’ve had to learn how to organise
themselves, administrate the co-operative
and direct Manos, as the directors’ board is
elected amongst the artisans,” explains
Cecilia. “They also need to achieve the levels
of consistency and quality that are our pride
and which our high-end clients expect.”
For Manos as a company, the biggest
challenge is “how to take care of our social
aim, while remaining competitive with other
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 69

Clockwise from above left: Manos artisan
Vanesa, photography by Olivia Perez;
Manos Yarn dyeing in Fraile Murto; Mirasol
school pupils, photograph by Michell &
Cia; Manos Yarn in Fraile Muerto.
textile suppliers. To do this, we need to find
ways to communicate our story and connect
with clients that appreciate and value it.”
The Mirasol School hosts nearly 50 children,
and has been accredited by the Ministry of
Education of Peru. However, in the beginning,
even the building was problematic. “Michell
donated the space for the school and we had
to build from scratch,” says Raul. “The altitude
– 4,000 metres above sea level – and the
weather conditions made this a challenge.”
They also had to be flexible in their thinking
for the school. “In the first year we started
teaching all the classes in Spanish, but we
soon saw that many of the children were
struggling. So we changed to teaching in
Quechua, a native language in the Peruvian
Highland and second official language in
Peru. Then the magic happened, as all the kids
started learning so much quicker.”
Maintaining the school is an ongoing issue.
“At Michell we support about 70% of the
70 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
project, with 30% coming from the
distributors we work with at Mirasol
Yarns,”explains Raul. “We’re trying to get more
and more people involved to share the costs
of financing the school year on year.”
Julie has spent years making Yarn Yarn
successful. “Working with people so far away
can be difficult,” she says. “There have been
many, many obstacles such as buying in huge
bulk, customs and taxes, the language barrier
and money, which are the reasons I now visit
and work directly with these people.”
She warns: “Setting up your own business
and sustaining any sort of living from it is a
very long and difficult process. The main
element behind setting up your own business
is passion! All things lead from this.”
I M P R O V I N G C I R C U M S TA N C E S
In 2007, Michell initiated the building of a
school. “We identified that the children were
getting poor education in the area and the
kids had to walk very long distances – up to
three hours each way – to reach their classes,”
Raul says. “Most of these kids are the children
of alpaca shepherds.
“We came up with the idea of making a
boarding school, for first to sixth grade, where
the kids could stay from Monday to Friday, get
a proper education, and do extra curricular
activities such as weaving or planting
vegetables, as well as being fed properly.”
Julie relishes the fact that through Yarn Yarn
she enables her customers to help to alleviate
poverty. “We want to give back to these
communities, use up waste and also keep
ancient crafting traditions alive,” she says.
“With every purchase our customers make,
with every sale of our yarns and hand crafted
products, we aim to support and provide
sustainable living within these communities.
“In many parts of India, spinning yarns is
their only source of income. The artisans that
make your products have a quality of life and
do not need to go to the cities in search of
work that doesn’t exist, and live in slums.”
In Afghanistan, years as a conflict zone has
resulted in many civilian casualties, which has
left women needing to support their families.
“This is problematic because there are few
opportunities for women to work, especially
in rural areas,” explains Susan. “Spinning the
yarn for us provides a network of about 100
women a way to earn income from home as
they also care for their families.”
Another significant change over the ages is
that school is now available to many more
children, providing that the fighting isn’t too
severe where they are. “School fees must be
paid, however, and that’s an important use of
household income in today’s Afghanistan.”
At the time when Manos launched, there
were few possibilities for women in rural
Uruguay to find work. “There was great
poverty and women were highly dependent
on their husbands,” says Cecilia. “Usually they
wouldn’t finish school and stayed at home to
raise children, occasionally doing laundry,
cleaning or sewing jobs.”
Becoming part of Manos has the potential
to change these women’s circumstances for
the better. “It allows the women not only to
provide for their families, but become more
independent and aware of their own

possibilities,” says Cecilia. “It gives them the
tools to own their lives.”
In the 1970s and 80s, many people were
forced to move from their villages to find work
in Uruguay’s capital city, Montevideo. But
being employed in Manos co-operatives
enabled the artisans to stay at home, keeping
families together and helping them to retain
their roots and quality of life.
Cecilia works with local spinners to develop
the yarns and colours that will become new
lines for Manos. “The co-operatives are
located in very small towns and take an active
part in the village community, so the benefits
spread through it,” she says.
LOOKING TO THE FUTURE
The efforts of the companies we’ve spoken to
allow families to stay together and retain
age-old skills, even as their needs have altered.
“These days, most household textiles and
clothing is made elsewhere and the
household now needs cash income,” says
Susan. “Having a market for their handspun
yarn continues to sustain the families and the
communities in their current lifestyle.”
There are ways we can ensure that our own
yarn choices have a positive, rather than a
detrimental, impact. The first step, Susan says,
is to ask the right questions.
“Always ask what it’s made of. Always ask
where it’s made,” she says. “Favour natural
fibres, and minimally processed ones.
Fortunately, many yarn companies have very
Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
GOOD READ
Left: Julie Colquitt
with Yarn Yarn
artisans. Right:
Manos Yarn dyeing
in Fraile Muerto.
good answers for our questions, and will be helping a very good cause,” enthuses Cecilia.
eager to share their story.” “Each skein that you purchase helps a woman
Happily, as Julie points out, yarns made in Uruguay to provide for her family. You can
from upcycled, recycled and waste materials see her name on the yarn tag, so you know
are on the increase in people’s crafting who you are helping and you can feel the
consciousness. “We’re making jumpers, bags, connection with her.”
hats and more out of old T-shirts and other Raul has been struck by the increase in
materials,” she says. “There are so many people’s interest in where the yarns they buy
exciting new projects are made, and whether
“There are so
going on out there using producing them has
yarns other than wool. any social impact. “The
These offer so many Mirasol Yarn Collection
possibilities for
contemporary crochet,
many exciting is a truly social yarn
line, since it’s making
and fibre artworks.”
Cecilia urges us to buy
projects using such a significant
improvement in the
less and buy better.
“Consumption frugality
yarns other lives of children
attending Mirasol
means making more
thoughtful purchases, than wool.” School,” he says. “We
have seen how the kids
taking sustainability into are learning better, and
consideration, and thinking about the social gaining more confidence without losing their
and environmental impacts,” she explains. own traditions and culture.
“This is especially true when we’re talking “I personally visit the school once or twice a
about a yarn, as you are going to invest a lot of year and it is such a joy to see the kids being
time, care and effort into a crochet project. happy, well fed and getting an education.
There’s no point in selecting a cheap, When you see that, you know your efforts are
use-and-discard yarn. You should choose a making a difference.”
yarn that feels good to crochet and wear, and Quite simply, by putting some thought into
doesn’t give you buyer’s guilt!” your yarn choices, you really can help to
It helps that the Manos yarns are a delight to change lives for the better. And in our opinion,
crochet with. “You can fall in love with it for its that knowledge can make your next crochet
buttery softness and gorgeous colours, and project an even more satisfying endeavour.
feel good by knowing that your purchase is Written by Judy Darley.
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 71
You’re a peach
Keep your toes oh-so toasty with this pair of cosy
pastel socks designed by Kristi Simpson.

EASY
PEASY
LIGHT DK 2.75MM
WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
Q Bernat Softee Baby, (100% acrylic,
140g/331m), 1 ball of Soft Peach
[30410]
Q A 2.75mm (US C/2) hook
Q Stitch marker
For yarn stockists contact
Wool Warehouse 01926 882818
www.woolwarehouse.co.uk
TENSION
20 sts and 20 rows in double crochet
over 10cm (4in) square using
2.75mm hook or size needed to
obtain tension
MEASUREMENTS
Women’s Small (Medium: Large)
Length: 20.5 (23: 25.5)cm, 8 (9: 10)in
Width: 9 (10: 10)cm, 3½ (4: 4)in
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 92
Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
Designer Kristi Simpson says: “These
beautiful tailored socks require only basic
crochet stitches. Wear them as slipper
socks around the house or outside with
clogs for a casual look.“ It’s the perfect
project if you’re new to socks. Try it!
NOTES
Each slipper sock is worked in sections:
the cuff is crocheted in rows, then sewn
together. Yarn is joined at the cuff and the
leg is worked in joined rounds. The heel is
worked in rows, then the gusset and foot
are crocheted continuously in the round.
The toe section of the sock is sewn
together at the end.
SOCKS (MAKE 2)
CUFF
Ch8.
Row 1 Dc in second chain from hook and
each ch across, turn. [7 sts]
Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), working
in back loop only, dc in each st across, turn.
Repeat Row 2 until you have completed 30
(34: 38) rows.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Use long tail to sew short ends together.
LEG
Round 1 (RS) Join yarn at seam of Cuff,
ready to work into row ends of Cuff: Ch2
(counts as tr), skip next row end, *(3tr, ch2,
tr) in next row end, skip 3 row ends; rep
from * around, ss to beg ch-2 to join, turn.
[29 (33: 37) sts]
Rounds 2-5 Ch2 (counts as first tr), (3tr,
ch2, tr) in each ch-2 sp, ss to beg ch-2 to
join, turn.
Round 6 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch2), *dc in next
ch-2 sp, dc in next st, ch2; repeat from *
around, ss to second ch of beg ch-4 to join,
turn. [31 (35: 39) sts]
HEEL
Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st
throughout), skip st at base of ch, dc in
each stitch and ch around, ss to first dc,
turn. [30 (34: 38) sts]
Row 2 Ch1, dc in each of next 15 (17: 19) dc,
turn, leaving rem sts unworked.
[15 (17: 19) sts]
Work another 6 (7: 8) rows of dc on these
15 (17: 19) sts.
Large size only
Next row (RS) Ch1, dc in next dc, dc2tog,
dc in each of next 13 dc, dc2tog, dc in last
st, turn. [17 sts]
S ipp r socks
These socks are worked from the cuff down,
with the cuff worked in rows the sewn up.
Large & Medium sizes only
Next row (WS) Ch1, dc in next dc, dc2tog,
dc in each of next 11 dc, dc2tog, dc in last
st, turn. [15: 15 sts]
All sizes
Next row (RS) Ch1, dc in next dc, dc2tog,
dc in each st to last 3 sts, dc2tog, dc in last
st, turn. [13 sts]
Repeat last row 4 more times, do not turn.
[5 sts]
GUSSET
Round 1 (RS) Ch1, 14 (15: 15) dc into row
ends of heel towards leg, dc in each of next
15 (17: 19) dc across leg, 14 (15: 15) dc into
row ends of heel, dc in each of next 5 dc
along bottom of heel, ss to first dc to join
into the round, do not turn at the end of
the round from now on. [48 (52: 54) sts]
Round 2 Mark first st with stitch marker,
ch1, dc in each of next 12 (13: 13) dc,
dc2tog, dc in each of next 15 (17: 19) dc,
dc2tog, dc in each of next 17 (18: 18) dc, ss
to first dc. [46 (50: 52) sts]
Round 3 Ch1, dc in each of next 11 (12: 12)
dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 15 (17: 19) dc,
dc2tog, dc in each of next 16 (17: 17) dc, ss
to first dc. [44 (48: 50) sts]
Round 4 Ch1, dc in each of next 10 (11: 11)
dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 15 (17: 19) dc,
dc2tog, dc in each of next 15 (16: 16) dc, ss
to first dc. [42 (46: 48) sts]
Round 5 Ch1, dc in each of next 9 (10: 10)
dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 15 (17: 19) dc,
dc2tog, dc in each of next 14 (15: 15) dc, ss
to first dc. [40 (44: 46) sts]
Round 6 Ch1, dc in each of next 8 (9: 9) dc,
dc2tog, dc in each of next 15 (17: 19) dc,
dc2tog, dc in each of next 13 (14: 14) dc, ss
to first dc. [38 (42: 44) sts]
Round 7 Ch1, dc in each of next 7 (8: 8) dc,
dc2tog, dc in each of next 15 (17: 19) dc,
dc2tog, dc in each of next 12 (13: 13) dc, ss
to first dc. [36 (40: 42) sts]
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 73
S ipp r socks

Round 8 Ch1, dc in each of next 6 (7: 7) dc, dc, ss to first dc. [36 sts]
dc2tog, dc in each of next 15 (17: 19) dc, Next round Ch1, *dc in each of next 7 dc,
dc2tog, dc in each of next 11 (12: 12) dc, ss dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc.
to first dc. [34 (38: 40) sts] [32 sts]

Large & Medium sizes only
Round 9 Ch1, dc in each of next (6: 6) dc,
dc2tog, dc in each of next (17: 19) dc,
dc2tog, dc in each of next (11: 11) dc, ss to
first dc. [36: 38 sts]
FOOT
Round 1 Ch1, dc in each stitch around, ss
to first dc. [34 (36: 38) sts]
Repeat Round 1 another 11 (13: 17) times.
Small size only
Next round Ch1, dc in each of next 15 dc,
dc2tog, dc in each of next 15 dc, dc2tog, ss
to first dc. [32 sts]
Medium size only
Next round Ch1, *dc in each of next 4 dc,
dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc.
[30 sts]
Next round Ch1, *dc in each of next 3 dc,
dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc.
[24 sts]
Next round Ch1, *dc in each of next 2 dc,
dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc.
[18 sts]
Next round Ch1, *dc in next dc, dc2tog;
rep from * around, ss to first dc. [12 sts]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Large size only
Next round Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of
next 17 dc, dc2tog, dc in each of next 17
Small & Large sizes only
Next round Ch1, *dc in each of next 6 dc,
dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc.
[28 sts]
Next round Ch1, *dc in each of next 5 dc,
dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc. The leg section of the sock is worked in
[24 sts] rounds after the cuff, and has a shell look.
Next round Ch1, *dc in each of next 4 dc,
dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc.
[20 sts]
Next round Ch1, *dc in each of next 3 dc,
dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc.
[16 sts]
Small size only
Next round Ch1, *dc in each of next 2 dc,
dc2tog; repeat from * around, ss to first dc.
[12 sts]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. The toe seams on each of these slipper socks
are sewn together neatly right at the end.
Large size only
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
TO MAKE UP
With the wrong side of the slipper sock The crochet pattern for
facing out, sew the toe opening tog in these cosy slipper socks
alignment with the heel. is from the book 25 Cozy
Weave in ends. Turn right side out. Crocheted Slippers by Kristi
Simpson, published by
Stackpole Books (RRP
£14.95). To find stockists
of this book and further
details, visit www.stackpolebooks.com

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO DECREASE IN DOUBLE CROCHET (DC2TOG)

1 Start by inserting the hook
under the top two loops of the
next stitch on the previous
row. Begin to work a double
crochet stitch in the usual way,
working yrh and pull loop
through (2 loops
on hook).
2 Without finishing the first
dc, begin the next dc by
inserting the hook in the next
stitch on the previous row.
Again, work yrh and pull loop
through (3 loops on hook).
3 Now complete both dc
stitches together by working
yrh and pull this loop through
all 3 loops on the hook.
4 This is how your completed
dc2tog should look. You will
have neatly decreased one
stitch. On subsequent rows,
you can simply work a stitch
into the top of the dc2tog
stitch as usual.

74 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
IS NEW
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AT JUST £4.99
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tutorial, be inspired by our chat with unique
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 YARN REVIEWS

P a s t e l y a rn s
p eck le s, sparkles and unicorn-worthy shades
S .

CRESCENT MOON MOTIF

Ch13.
ROW 1 (RS) Ss in 2nd ch from hook, 2dc in next
ch, 2htr in next ch, 2tr in each of next 2ch,
3tr in each of next 2ch, 2tr in each of next 2ch,
2htr in next ch, 2dc in next ch,
ss in next ch, turn.
ROW 2 Skip ss, dc in each of next 4 sts, htr in
each of next 3 sts, 2tr in next st, tr in each of
next 6 sts, 2tr in next st, htr in each of next 3
sts, dc in each of next 4 sts, ss in ss.
FASTEN OFF and weave in ends.

Make a
d
baby mobeamy
ile

Scheepjes Stardust
WEIGHT DK
CONTENT 75% acrylic,
11% mohair, 11% wool,
3% metallic polyester
BALL 100g/540m
HOOK 3-3.5mm
RRP £5.49
On paper, this is an unusual
blend of fibres, but it works
really well – the acrylic provides
a strong, durable base, while
the wool and mohair add a soft
halo and the metallic fibres add
a subtle sparkle that’s bang on
trend. Stardust is easy to hook
with and comes in 14 pretty
colourways (nine solid and five
variegated), each named after
a different star constellation,
which we adore. What could be
better for inspiring you to reach
for the stars with your crochet
makes, confident that the fabric
you create will shine out?
www.scheepjes.com
Yarn r vi ws
Sirdar Snuggly tutti fruitti
WEIGHT Aran
CONTENT 80% polyester,
20% rayon
BALL 50g/95m
HOOK 5mm
RRP £2.99
Just like hooking with cloud, and a playful texture that’s
Sirdar’s new Tutti Frutti is a joy really fun for kids. It comes in six
to work with. It’s a chenille yarn mouth-watering, multicoloured
so it’s soft and warm. What shades with sweetie names like
makes this yarn special is the Strawberry Laces, Dolly Mixture
extra rayon fibres that are spun and Cola Cube. Perfect for cosy
right in with the chenille fibres. baby blankets, hats and toys.
These contrasting flashes of www.sirdar.co.uk
colour create variegated effects 01924 231682

James C Brett Baby twinkle DK Print Rico baby Dream DK

WEIGHT DK WEIGHT DK
CONTENT 65% acrylic, CONTENT 50% acrylic,
28% supersoft nylon, 7% lurex 50% polyamide
BALL 100g/300m BALL 50g/122m
HOOK 4mm HOOK 4mm
RRP £2.99 RRP £3.39

All your pastel fantasies have
come true with this yarn, which
includes interesting colour
effects as well as sparkly bits.
Baby Twinkle DK Print is
wonderfully soft for babies and
children, yet also strong and
machine-washable at 30˚C. It’s
light and easy to work with, yet
it feels snuggly when held
close. Each of the 15 colours has
a pastel base, with a delicate
sprinkle of shimmer and
touches of contrasting colour
dotted on top. This yarn is a
great-value pastel choice.
www.jamescbrett.co.uk
01274 565959
The tagline for this yarn is ‘A
Luxury Touch’ and we couldn’t
agree more – one touch and
you’ll be smitten. It’s the most
plump and squashable yarn
using man-made fibres that
we’ve ever hooked with and the
fabric feels amazing next to the
skin. It’s light yet cosy, making it
a great all-rounder for any
project to give to little ones.
Dream DK comes in six shades,
all variegated, with interesting
combinations of colours that
create self-striping effects and
a wonderful depth of colour.
Contact your local Rico Design
retailer or online stockist.

DROPS Muskat Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky

WEIGHT DK WEIGHT Chunky
CONTENT 100% cotton CONTENT 100% acrylic
BALL 50g/100m BALL 100g/136m
HOOK 4mm HOOK 6mm
RRP £1.45 RRP £2.25

One of our faves, DROPS Muskat
is a beautiful cotton yarn that’s
a dream to work with. It feels
soft, smooth and strong, thanks
to its high-quality, long
Egyptian cotton fibres that have
been mercerised to add shine
and make the yarn slide easily
over the hook. The resulting
fabric has a lovely drape that
suits almost any project. There
are 37 gorgeous colours to
choose from and they all tone
really well together, which is
particularly good for creating
ombre colour effects.
www.woolwarehouse.co.uk
01926 882818
Paintbox Yarns is a fairly new
yarn brand, exclusive to
LoveCrochet. The appeal of
their yarns is the huge choice of
colours available, including
pastel shades and jewel tones,
as well as fab free patterns.
Simply Chunky comes in a
whopping 60 colours so if you
can dream it, the chances are
they’ll have it. It’s a soft acrylic
yarn that’s super-easy to hook
with – it has a lovely smoosh
but it’s also durable and
non-stretchy. The chunky size
means it hooks up quickly.
www.lovecrochet.com
0845 544 2196

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 Show us yours
Join our gang of Treble Makers and share your thoughts and makes with us,
for a chance to be featured here, use our hashtag #Sctreblemaker

PRETTY DOUBLE TAP

IN PINK We’ve been double tapping on Instagram
W Reader Gem and admiring your makes.
Harman should be Tag us @simplycrochetmag and use the
proud of the frock hashtag #SCtreblemaker.
she made for her
friend’s daughter – RIGHT ROUND
it’s fantastic! We like Keen crocheter
WINNER! the addition of the @squishymini_
pink corsage. Missed has been busy
the pattern in issue hooking the Mega
33? Download it Mandala blanket
from our Ravelry from our issue 33
Bright Blankets
store at http://bit.ly/
collection. So far
sc54dress so good. Now we
can’t wait to see
how it turns out.

DEER OH DEER FOR BABY

Y
This one takes us
ou’re going to love this – the inventive back – reader
stitcher @abluebirdonmyshoulder made @crafting_a_
removable noses in black and red for her london_balcony
is expecting a
Vanessa Mooncie reindeer trophy head from little one soon
Simply Crochet issue 51. This means he can be (huge congrats)
proudly displayed all year round, not just at so she’s making
a pair of cute
Christmas time. Wish we’d thought of that! baby bootees
from issue 3.

WINNER! she’s Such a Doll BUTTON IT

It was the playful details and delicate Speedy stitcher
embroidery on our issue 44 amigurumi @dollmacable
kokeshi dolls that really stole our hearts. crocheted this hat
French reader @lejardindeceline has from our issue 52
definitely done justice to the original design Winter Warmers
with her pretty pink and yellow version. She collection not
made it as part of an Instagram craft swap – long after it came
out. It looks so
such a lovely idea. How neat are those little
cosy and and
stitches? And the quirky facial expression is she’s made good
spot-on, too. If you missed Becky Garratt’s use of that jumbo
kokeshi dolls in Simply Crochet, turn to page wooden button.
94 to find out about our back issues.

THE LOWDOWN It’s simple to be in with a chance of winning a fab yarn pack from Cygnet! win
Three winners will each recieve 10 mixed balls of Whopper Cotton yarn. Just show us your
Simply Crochet makes on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or via email or post by 5 February.
For all terms and conditions, visit www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk/competitionrules
 @SIMPLYCROCHET
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Cheryl Bradley made Twinkie
Chan’s jumbo cushions from issue
45 for her daughters.
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WINNER!
FAB FLORALS
This version of the Petal Power
design from our Bright Blankets
issue 33 collection is simply
glorious. Jools Inan switched
up the yarn for this make,
letting her daughter pick a
lively palette of DROPS Paris
cotton. The cream background
helps those shades pop!
This month we asked you..
What new
technique would
you LOVE to
master this
year?
@Emma Sews Tuniian cochet, got a
hook and a book but not tied it yet
@JulieSwainCCC all of them!!!
CABLES
CROCODILE
STITCH
CROCHET
FILET
41% TUNISIAN
CROCHET
28%
19%
12%
111 votes
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If you are a winner, you may have to provide additional information. Details of winners will be available
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Promoter will offer the prize to a runner up. Promoter reserves the right to substitute the prize with one
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Wor k s h o p
Evey iue
tech
beau
niq
ti
u
fu
e
l th
we show yo
you’ll need
in
u the
to make
gs fo you
home.
Learn to felt
DISCOVER HOW TO MAKE GORGEOUS ITEMS VIA WASHING!

Felting is an ancient way of Soap adds lubrication, allowing

creating fabric and many of us the fibres to run over each other
discover it by accident when more easily, while the agitation
washing a woollen make on the encourages the fibres to get
wrong setting! Too hot or too closer and mat together.
vigorous a wash and a man-size This process is more accurately
jumper can shrink to child size. called fulling, but felting is the
But as crocheters, we can umbrella term that tends to be
harness wool’s eagerness to felt used. Read on and we’ll explain
to create items such as slippers, exactly what to do to start your
bags and bowls, all benefitting own felting journey.
from the dense, warm, and
hard-wearing qualities of felt.
Just crochet your item using
100% wool yarn, then wash it in
hot water with soap and some
agitation – the fibres will
magically mat together into felt
and the item will shrink. Want to
know the science behind this?
The wool fibres in your yarn have
cuticles running along the

tuLip bOwl p83 length, which open up when

they are placed in hot water.

what yarns and stitches should I use?

Learn the best techniques to create your felted pieces.
You need a 100% wool yarn,
although you can felt with other
animal fibres. Don’t use ‘superwash’
Before after
wool because this will have been
treated to resist felting. If the ball
band states ‘hand wash in cold
water’, that’s a good sign. You can
use any yarn weight, but felting will
make a thick fabric even thicker.
Next, decide on your stitch
pattern. It’s best to start with dc
stitches – they create a dense fabric 13cm
with fibres close enough to felt 12cm
easily. Once you gain confidence,
you can try texture, colourwork and
even lace patterns (although if these
are too dense, they can disappear
during felting). The key to felting is
experimentation, so if you see a
stitch pattern you like, swatch it and
felt it to see how it turns out. 13cm 10cm

80 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
 Don’ t t h
o
Psst
– felted w away yo u  swa
fabr tch e
out shape ic won’ t f  ay so 
what hook should I use?
Selecting the best tools for the job.
 t o u e
in projec ut
t .
c

For felting, it’s best to use a hook that’s one or two sizes up from your
usual one for the weight of yarn – the wool fibres need space to
loosen up and rub together, so the stitches need to be not too close
and not too far apart. The hook size depends on the yarn, the stitches
and your tension, so it’s a good idea to make some swatches to see
which one creates a better result. We did this swatch (see below) with
a chunky wool, dc stitches and a 10mm and 15mm hook. After felting,
both swatches look good, but the smaller swatch was slightly easier
to hook and felted more easily and evenly.

Before after

13cm
11cm

13cm 10cm

Before after

17cm
14cm

18cm 12cm

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 hop
Works

how does the shrink factor work? Before

Making sure your work felts to the right size.
After felting, the gap between the fibres has
reduced, making the fabric denser and
reducing the overall size of each swatch.
The fibres also become much softer and
colourwork patterns are gently blended. The
‘shrink factor’ is also a key aspect of felting,
and crochet fabrics usually tend to shrink
more widthways than they do lengthways
because of the larger gap between the
stitches than the rows.
Calculating the amount that your fabric
shrinks is vital to being able to crochet an
item that will measure a certain size after
felting, and swatching is a vital part of this
process. Let’s take our swatch worked with a
10mm hook as an example – it has 10 sts and
12 rows to 13cm square before felting. After
felting, it’s 10cm wide and 11cm high. To
calculate the shrink factor, work as follows:
Measurement after felting (10cm) divided by
measurement before felting (13cm) = Shrink
factor (0.77). You can use the shrink factor to
work out how big your item will be after
felting. For example, you’ve made a rug
145cm square, so work 145 multiplied by 0.77
= 112cm after felting.
You can also use the shrink factor to work
out how big to crochet your item to achieve
a specific measurement after felting. For
example, suppose you want a felt hat that’s
60cm circumference, so work 60 divided by
after
0.77 = 78cm. So you will need to crochet the
hat to 78cm circumference. Then use the
swatch to calculate how many stitches you
need to achieve that 78cm, by working:
Desired size (78) divided by Swatch size (13) =
Stitch ratio (6). Stitch ratio (6) multiplied by
Stitches in the swatch (10) = Stitches needed
(60). You’d therefore need to crochet 60
stitches for your hat.

how do i felt my work?

It’s time to start getting creative!
Before you felt a fabric, always
make a note of the yarn and hook
you used, and its measurements.
Then record exactly how you felt
the fabric: the water temperature,
soap used, how long it washed for,
hand or machine method, etc. This
is all so that you can reproduce the
results another time. Now you’re
ready to have some fun!
You can felt your fabric by hand
or in your washing machine, so try
both methods and see which one
you prefer. Felting by hand will
involve more time and effort but it
does give you much more control
over the size and texture
of the resulting fabric.
To felt by hand, fill a bowl with
water that’s as hot as you can
Written by Becky Skuse
get rubbing! Keep going until the
fibres mat together and the piece
is the size you want. This might
take 30 minutes or more, but the
key is to just be patient.
To felt in the machine, place
your crochet fabric in a mesh bag
or pinned-up pillowcase so it
won’t escape. Place inside your
machine and add a couple of old
towels or a pair of jeans to increase
the agitation. Set it to a 40˚C wash,
but without the rinse or spin. If
you can, check on the progress of
your piece after 10 minutes. Keep
putting it back in the machine for
two minutes at a time until you’re
happy with the size.
Once it’s felted to your
satisfaction, rinse in cold water to

stand and add a little soap, such as
hand soap. Protect your hands
with rubber gloves, then immerse
your crochet fabric in the water.
Leave it for around ten minutes for
the heat to take effect and then
‘set’ the fibres. Place onto a folded
up towel and roll up to squeeze
out the excess water – don’t wring
or your item may become
misshapen. Block the piece if
needed and leave it to dry.

82 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
 f t d bow

Bowled over
Put your new skills to the test with this pretty
tulip-shaped felted pot. By Becky Skuse.

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f t d bow
EASY
PEASY
SUPER 10MM
CHUNKY 15MM
YOU WILL NEED
Q Twilleys Freedom Wool
(100% wool, 50g/50m),
2 balls of each:
Yarn A Red Pepper (1117)
Yarn B Paprika (1105)
1 ball of Yarn C Pistachio (1108)
Q A 10mm (US N/15) hook
Q A 15mm (US P/19) hook
For yarn stockists contact
TB Ramsden 01943 872264
www.tbramsden.co.uk
TENSION
5 sts and 5 rows to measure
10x10cm over dc using a 15mm
hook and yarn held double,
before felting
MEASUREMENTS
Before felting: 19cm (7½in) tall,
22cm (8½) diameter
After felting: 16cm (6½in) tall, 20cm
(8in) diameter
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 92
84 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
Becky says: “When you’re starting out on
your felting adventures, a good project is
one that doesn’t need to be a specific size,
such as this bowl, just in case the felting
process doesn’t go as planned.” The green
lines are worked afterwards using surface
crochet to emphasise the flower petals,
but these are optional extras and the bowl
will look just as good without them.
NOTES
If you don’t want to work the petal lines,
when you crochet Top Edging work into
both loops of large petal sts instead of just
the back loops. The Inner Base piece helps
to strengthen base of bowl and cover any
unsightly joins made when working the
petal lines. Omit this piece if desired.
FLOWER BOWL
Using a 15mm hook and 2 strands of Yarn C
held together, make a magic ring.
Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st
throughout), 6dc into ring, ss to first dc to
join. [6 dc]
Round 2 Ch1, 2dc in each dc around, ss to
first dc to join. [12 dc]
Round 3 Ch1, (dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc)
around, ss to first dc to join. [18 dc]
Fasten off Yarn C and weave in ends.
Holding Yarns A and B tog, join in any st.
Round 4 Ch1, (dc in each of next 5 dc, 2dc
in next dc) around, ss to first dc to join.
[21 dc]
Round 5 Ch1, (dc in each of next 6 dc, 2dc
in next dc) around, ss to first dc to join.
[24 dc]
Round 6 Ch1, (dc in each of next 7 dc, 2dc
in next dc) around, ss to first dc to join.
[27 dc]
Round 7 Ch1, (dc in each of next 8 dc, 2dc
in next dc) around, ss to first dc to join.
[30 dc]
Round 8 Ch1, (dc in each of next 9 dc, 2dc
in next dc) around, ss to first dc to join.
[33 dc]
Round 9 Ch1, (dc in each of next 10 dc, 2dc
in next dc) around, ss to first dc to join.
[36 dc]
Round 10 Ch1, (dc in each of next 11 dc,
2dc in next dc) around, ss to first dc to join.
[39 dc]
Rounds 11-12 Ch1, dc in each dc around, ss
to first dc to join.
Round 13 Ch1, (dc in each of next 11 dc,
dc2tog) around, ss to first dc to join. [36 dc]
Round 14 Ch1, (dc in each of next 10 dc,
dc2tog) around, ss to first dc to join. [33 dc]
Round 15 Ch1, (dc in each of next 9 dc,
When viewed from above, this striking felted
bowl reveals a contrasting green base.
dc2tog) around, ss to first dc to join. [30 dc]
Round 16 (petals) *Ss in next dc, htr in
each of next 2 dc, ss in next dc (small petal
formed), ss in next dc, htr in next dc, tr in
each of next 2 dc, htr in next dc, ss in next
dc (large petal formed); rep from * twice
more, ss to first ss to join. [3 small petals, 3
large petals] Fasten off and weave in ends.
PETAL LINES
Using 2 strands of Yarn C and a 10mm
hook, surface crochet the outline of the
larger petals using the image as a guide.
Join Yarn at edge of Round 3 at base of
bowl, working upwards, surface crochet to
top of bowl to first st of a large petal. At
top of bowl, work in the front loops of sts
of large petal, using a 15mm hook as
follows: ss into ss, dc in each of next 4 sts,
ss into ss. Then work surface crochet
downwards towards to base of bowl. Do
not fasten off, start next petal line from
here. Rep this process to outline all three
large petals, finishing at the point where
you started. Fasten off and weave in ends.
TOP EDGING
Rejoin Yarn C at top of bowl, in first st of a
small petal. *In sts of small petal, work: ss
into ss, dc in each of next 2 sts, ss into ss. In
the back loops of sts of next large petal
work: ss into ss, dc in each of next 4 sts, ss
into ss; rep from * twice more, ss to first ss to
join. Fasten off and weave in ends.
INNER BASE
Using Yarn C, work as given for Flower
Bowl to the end of Round 3. Fasten off,
leaving a long tail for sewing. Place this
piece centrally in base of bowl and sew in
place using long tail. Weave in rem ends.
FELTING
Felt the bowl as described in the
workshop. Ours was felted by hand to the
measurements stated.
 WORKSHOPS MARKETPLACE
D O RSE T STAFFO RD SHIRE

Bridport Yarn,
35a South Street,
Bridport,
Dorset DT6 3NY

Stockists of knitting and crochet yarns by Sirdar, Sublime Baby, Hayfield,

Kin , Wend r Pan and Robin s and accessories

7 Tudor Row, Wade Street, Lichfield, Staffordshire WS13 6HH

01308 455669 ‘Yarn’ is a fun, inspirational and quirky sanctuary Tel: 01543 417700
info@bridportyarn.co.uk for all knitters and crocheters. Workshops, support
www.bridportyarn.co.uk and advice to help you on your creative journey. www.knitiqueonline.com
B E D FO RD SHIRE SC OT L AND
Raleigh House, Ampthill Road, Yarns for every budget,
BEDFORD MK42 9HE
www.bedfordcraftscentre.co.uk
and patterns for every style
01234 266510 at Scotland’s award-winning
yarn store
Beginners Crochet: This one day workshop will cover the basics
to get you hooking, as well as introducing basic pattern reading.
Sat 04/03/17 10:00-14:00, £25 – Stephanie Phillips
Freeform Crochet: By the end of the day you will have gained a
basic knowledge of freeform design concepts and have created a
"scrumble" that could be worn in a piece of free form crochet art.
Sat 04/02/2017 10:00-16:00, £36 – Stephanie Phillips
doWnloaD siMply
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 Crochet essentials
Over the next few pages, you’ll find simple step-by-step guides to many useful
stitches and techniques that you’ll use every time you pick up a hook.

HOLDING THE HOOK HOLDING THE YARN

Try these methods and see which works best. Even tension results in even stitches.

PENCIL METHOD KNIFE METHOD METHOD ONE METHOD TWO

Hold the hook like a pencil, in
your right hand (if you’re
right-handed), about 3-5cm
from the hooked end. If your
hook has a flat area, you’ll find it
comfortable to hold it here.
Hold the hook between your
thumb and forefinger, about
3-5cm from the hooked end,
resting the end of the hook
against your palm. This will
give you lots of control.
Pass the ball end of the yarn
between the little finger and
third fingers of your left hand
(if you are right-handed), then
behind the third and middle
fingers, over your index finger.
Loop the ball end of the yarn
loosely around the little finger
of your left hand, then take it
over the third finger, behind the
middle finger and over your
index finger.

MAKING A SLIPKNOT The first loop on the hook.

1 Hold the tail of the ball of
yarn in your left hand and
drape the yarn clockwise over
the top of it to form a circular
loop.
2 Hold the loop between left
thumb and forefinger, then
insert the crochet hook
through the centre of the loop
from front to back.
3 Catch the ball end of the
yarn with the hook and pull it
back through the centre of the
loop, taking the yarn through
with it.
4 Pull both ends of the yarn to
tighten the knot, then pull just
the ball end to tighten the
loop so it’s close to the hook,
but not touching it.

CHAIN STITCH Use this stitch to make your foundation chain. How to count chains

9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Each chain or loop counts as

1 Hold the hook in your right
hand, and both the yarn end
and the working yarn in your
left hand. Move the hook under
and over the yarn to wrap it
around anticlockwise.
2 Pull the hook towards the
slipknot, catching the yarn in
the hook, and pulling it through
the slipknot loop. This forms
your first chain (ch) stitch.
Repeat steps 1 and 2 to form a
chain length.
3 This is what your row of
chains will look like. Hold the
chain with your left hand near
the hook, to keep the tension.
Keep going until you have the
number of chains that’s stated
in your pattern.
one stitch. Never count your
first slipknot or the loop on
the hook (called the working
loop). So that you can be
accurate, make sure the
chain is not twisted and that
the front is facing you.

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SLIP STITCH (ss) WORKING IN ROWS
This stitch has no height – often used to join rounds. Follow these simple rules to construct crochet fabric.

1 The slip stitch is used to join
a length of chain into the
round. Insert the hook from
front to back into the first
chain you worked. Wrap yarn
round the hook (yrh) in an
anticlockwise direction.
2 Pull the yarn through the
chain stitch (as shown) and
then the loop already on the
hook to make a slip stitch. You
can also work this stitch into
each stitch along a row to
form a neat edging.
1 The first row is made by
working across the
foundation chain from right to
left. At the end of the chain or
row, turn the work so that the
yarn is behind the hook.
2 For the next row, first make
the turning chain for the stitch
you’re about to work (see
opposite). Now work the next
stitch into the top of the
stitches on your first row,
missing the first stitch.

DOUBLE CROCHET (dc) US term: single crochet

One of the key stitches in crochet, doubles are simple, compact stitches that form a dense fabric.

1 To make a double crochet
stitch, insert the hook under
the top two loops of the next
stitch on the previous row.
2 Wind the yarn around the
hook (yrh).
3 Pull the yarn through the
stitch, giving you two loops
on your crochet hook.
4 Yarn round hook again, then
pull the yarn through both
loops. There’s your double
crochet made and you’ll have
one loop left on the hook,
ready to do the next stitch.

HALF TREBLE CROCHET (htr) US term: half double crochet

A handy stitch that’s between double and treble crochet in size, and it looks slightly looser than double crochet.

1 To make a half treble crochet
stitch, work to where you
want the htr and then wind
the yarn round the hook (yrh).
2 Insert the hook under the
top two loops of the next
stitch in the previous row.
Wrap yarn around the hook
again (yrh).
3 Pull the yarn through the
stitch only (3 loops on hook).
4 Yarn round hook again, pull
the yarn through all 3 loops.
You’ve made a half treble
crochet. Continue working htr
into next and following sts to
the end of the row.

88 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

TREBLE CROCHET (tr) US term: double crochet
One of the most popular stitches in crochet, this simple stitch is twice as high as a double crochet stitch.
1 To work a treble crochet,
start by winding yrh and then
insert the hook under the top
two loops of the stitch on the
previous row.
DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET (dtr)
US term: treble crochet
This is a stitch regularly used
as an elongated version of the
treble (described above). It’s
worked in a very similar way to
the treble, as follows:
1 Make a foundation chain. Skip
4ch, *yrh twice, and insert the
hook under the top loop of the
next ch.
2 Yrh, pull the yarn through the
ch loop only (4 loops on hook).
3 Yrh and pull the yarn through
2 loops only (3 loops on hook).
TURNING CHAIN (t-ch)
For an even finish, start each row with a turning chain.
In crochet, you need to add
turning chains (t-chs) to the
beginning of rows. The reason
for this is to bring the hook up to
the height of the stitches you’re
crocheting. Each basic stitch has
its own number of chains. The
Add to
foundation
chain before
STITCH starting row
Double crochet 1 ch
Half treble 1 ch
Treble 2 ch
Double treble 3 ch
Triple treble 4 ch
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YOUR GUIDE
2 Wrap the yarn around the
hook (yrh) and pull the yarn
through the stitch only.
Yrh and pull the yarn through
2 loops only (2 loops on hook).
4 Yrh and pull the yarn through
the remaining 2 loops. Repeat
from * to make more dtr sts.
5 To make the next row of dtr,
turn work and ch4. This turning
chain counts as the first dtr in a
new row. Skip first st at the base
of the t-ch, work 1dtr under the
top two loops of the 2nd stitch
in the previous row; continue to
the end of the row.
table below tells you how many
t-ch sts form the first stitch. *For
dc, usually the turning chain
does not count as a stitch, and
the first stitch of the row is
worked into the stitch at the base
of the turning chain.
Skip at For
start of turning
foundation chain
row (counts (counts as
as first st) first st)
1 ch* 1 ch*
2 ch 2 ch
3 ch 3 ch
4 ch 4 ch
5 ch 5 ch
3 You will now have 3 loops on 4 You will now have 2 loops on
the hook. Yrh again, and draw the hook. Yrh again and draw the
the yarn through just the first yarn through the remaining
2 loops on the hook. loops on the hook. Your treble
crochet is complete.
TRIPLE TREBLE CROCHET (ttr)
US term: double treble crochet
This is one of the longest loops only. Repeat from † 3
standard crochet stitches and is times more and your triple
mainly used in fancy stitch treble will be finished. Repeat
patterns. It’s taller than a double from * to make more ttr sts.
treble crochet stitch (described 4 To make the next row, turn
left) and is worked in a very work and ch5. This turning chain
similar way, as follows: counts as the first triple treble in
1 Make a foundation ch. Skip 5 a new row. Skip first st at base of
ch, *yrh 3 times, insert hook the t-ch. Work 1 triple treble,
under top loop of next ch. inserting hook under the top 2
2 Yrh, pull yarn through ch loop loops of the 2nd st in the
only (5 loops on hook). previous row; continue to the
3 † Yrh, draw loop through 2 end of the row.
How to count stitches
Check your work is correct.
Being able to count
your stitches is very
important and helps
you to ensure that 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
you’re following a
pattern correctly. It’s
a good idea to count
your stitches at the
end of every row. To
count short stitches
such as double
crochet, look at the
plaited tops (see
above right). For
taller stitches, count
the upright ‘stems’ – 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
each ‘stem’ is
counted as a stitch
(see right).
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 89
HOW TO CHANGE COLOUR INCREASING AND DECREASING
Create stripes and other colour effects. Shaping stitches are vital for making garments.

1 Before you work the final yrh
(yarn round hook) on the last
stitch of a row in the old
colour, drop the old yarn and
then pick up the new one with
your hook.
2 Pull through a loop of the
new yarn to finish the old
stitch. The working loop will
be in the new colour.
Continue, keeping the old
yarn at the wrong side.
INCREASE To increase one
stitch is very simple – work
one stitch into the next stitch
on the row below. When
you’ve finished, work another
stitch into the same stitch.
DECREASE For a quick
decrease, just skip one stitch.
For a neater look, work the
first part of one stitch and
then begin the next stitch.
Finish both together.

SEWING SEAMS
You can join crochet seams by using a tapestry needle or a crochet hook, using one of these four methods.

1 Sewing with a tapestry
needle is the regular and neat
way to join seams. Place two
pieces of crochet right sides
together and oversew them as
shown above, using a tapestry
or yarn needle.
2 To slip stitch a seam, place
the crochet pieces right sides
together. *Insert hook into
both edge stitches, yrh and
pull through to complete 1
slip stitch; rep from * working
into the next edge stitches,
keeping work fairly loose.
3 For a dc seam, place the
crochet pieces right sides
together, or wrong sides
together for a visible seam.
Work as for slip stitch seam,
using double crochet instead
of slip stitch.
4 A useful variation on the dc
seam, the dc and chain seam is
used when less bulk and/or
greater flexibility is needed.
Work 1 double crochet and
1 chain alternately.

How to check your tension

Make and measure a swatch to check your tension.

Most crochet patterns state the tension

required, in rows and stitches of a specific
type. Make a swatch at least 15cm square
and check that your tension matches. Place
a ruler across the swatch and insert two pins,
10cm apart. Then place the ruler along a
column of stitches and insert two pins 10cm
apart. Count the stitches and rows between
the pins – if you have less than the pattern,
your tension is too loose so you need to use
a smaller hook, but if you have too many,
use a larger hook. It’s usually better to
match the stitches than rows, because you
can always work more or fewer rows.

90 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

FOUNDATION RING
Create a foundation ring for working in the round.
1 Make a chain the length
stated in the pattern
instructions. Next, insert the
crochet hook into the first
chain. Close the ring with a
slip stitch, working yrh…
MAGIC LOOP
An alternative foundation ring for working in the round.
Working
yarn
Tail end
1 To start a Magic Loop, don’t
make a slipknot. Instead, make
a loop with the yarn, leaving a
tail around 10cm long. Make
sure the tail end is under the
working yarn.
JOINING ROUNDS
Finish off each round of crochet stitches nice and neatly by using a slip stitch.
1 To close a round of stitches,
work a slip stitch into the top
of the turning chain. To do
this, insert the hook into the
top stitch of the turning chain.
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YOUR GUIDE
2 …and pull yarn through 2
loops on hook. Now you’re
ready to start crocheting in
the round, following the
instructions given right.
2 Now insert your hook into the
loop, from front to back. Wrap
the working yarn around the
hook and pull the yarn through
the loop.
2 Then place the yarn round
the hook. Pull the yarn
through the turning chain
stitch and through the
original stitch on your hook.
WORKING STITCHES INTO A RING
To make circles, tubes and other shapes.
1 Make a foundation ring and
work the t-ch (3ch for treble
sts). Work a treble st as usual,
but insert hook into centre of
ring. For treble sts, yrh, insert
hook into ring.
3 Make a t-ch for the sts you
want to work (above, we made
1 t-ch for dc). Work your sts
into the Magic Loop, over
both the loop and the tail end
(so two yarn strands).
3 You’ve slip stitched the
round together! Before
working another round, be
sure to make the required
turning chain. Always work
rounds on the right side,
unless you pattern instructs
you otherwise.
2 Finish the treble as usual
(yrh, pull yarn through ring,
yrh, pull yarn through first 2
loops, yrh, pull yarn through 2
loops). Work more sts into the
ring as needed.
4 Once you’ve worked the first
round of stitches, simply pull
the tail end of yarn to draw up
the ring. Work a slip stitch to
join the last and first sts to finish
the first round (as instructed in
the guide below).
Rounds
or spirals
Check which technique
you need to use.
Some patterns are worked
in rounds that are joined
together at the end of each
©Stephanie Lau, www.allaboutami.com
round (see left). Other
patterns are worked in a
spiral so you don’t need to
join the rounds at the end,
just keep going, working
into the next stitch on the
previous row. Amigurumi
toys are often worked in a
spiral like this.
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 91
 Abbreviations Crochet hook conversions
across to end of the row htr half treble UK METRIC US
approx approximate(ly) htr2tog work 2htr together
14 2mm –
beg beginning in next sts to be worked into
bl insert hook under the same stitch 13 2.25mm B/1
back loop only inc increase
12 2.5mm –
BPtr Back Post treble: LH left hand
yrh, starting from the lp(s) loop(s) – 2.75mm C/2
back, insert hook from meas measures
back to front to back patt(s) pattern(s) 11 3mm –
around post of st in pm place marker 10 3.25mm D/3
row below, complete prev previous
as treble st qtr quadruple treble 9 3.5mm E/4
ch(s) chain/chain stitch(es) rem remain(s)/remaining – 3.75mm F/5
ch-sp(s) chain space(s) rep repeat
ch- refers to ch made RH right hand 8 4mm G/6
previously, eg. ch-3 rnd(s) round(s) 7 4.5mm 7
cl(s) clusters RS right side
2-tr cl (yrh, insert hook in sp/ sk skip 6 5mm H/8
st, yrh & pull up loop, sp(s) space(s) 5 5.5mm I/9
yrh & draw through 2 ss slip stitch
loops) twice, inserting st(s) stitch(es) 4 6mm J/10
hook in same sp/st, tbl through back loop
3 6.5mm K/10½
yrh & draw through all t-ch(s) turning chain(s)
loops on hook tog together 2 7mm –
cont continue tr treble crochet
0 8mm L/11
dc double crochet tr2tog (yrh, insert hook in
dc2tog (insert hook in next st, next st, yrh and pull 00 9mm M/13
yrh and draw a loop up loop, yrh and draw
through) twice, yrh through 2 loops) 000 10mm N/15
and draw through all 3 twice, yrh and draw
loops on hook through all loops on
dec decrease hook
dtr
dtr2tog
double treble crochet
work 2dtr together
ttr
WS
triple treble crochet
wrong side
Which hook do I use?
fdc foundation dc yrh yarn round hook Hook size UK yarn weight
ftr foundation tr * work instructions
fl insert hook under immediately foll *, 2.5-3.5mm hook 4ply yarn
front loop only then rep as many 3.5-4.5mm hook double knitting yarn
foll/folls following/follows more times as directed
FPtr Front Post treble: work () work all instructions in 5-6mm hook aran yarn
in opposite way to the brackets as many 7mm and bigger chunky yarn
BPtr times as directed

HOW TO GET A PERFECT FINISH

UK/US conversions
To prevent your hard work unravelling once you’ve finished crocheting, UK US
fasten the end off carefully.
chain ch chain ch
Complete the final stitch, then cut the yarn
about 15cm from the work. Pull it through the slip stitch ss slip stitch ss
last loop on the hook and pull to close the double crochet dc single crochet sc
loop. Thread the yarn tail onto a tapestry
half treble htr half double hdc
needle and weave into the back of the work.
Most crochet items don’t need a lot of treble tr double dc
blocking, but cotton lace work usually does.
double treble dtr treble tr
To do this, carefully pin out the item with
rust-proof pins, mist with a water spray and triple treble ttr double treble dtr
leave to dry naturally.

92 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
 CHARTS

Charts & Diagrams

Here are the extra bits and pieces you'll need to make the raised diamonds
reading accessories and the Hook to Hook cardigan this issue.

Raised diamonds stitch, page 63

Chart Key

Row pattern repeat

Chain (ch)
8 Double crochet (dc)

7 Treble crochet (tr)

6
Front Post Double Treble crochet (FPdtr)
5
Front Post Dtr2tog
4
3
2
1

Hook to Hook cardigan, page 57

Chart Key
9 Yarn A
8
7 Yarn C
6
5
4
3

10 5

Come to our blog at www.simplycrochetmag.com WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 93

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 MANDALA

W e h e a rt it
romantic rounds fo
titc h Lucy Croft’s r sprin
S g.

Win the
Psst
to make ya  n
th i !

Made in association with King Cole for stockists www.kingcole.com or call 01756 703670
MANDA A

This is the second in our series of 12 fab group in Rnd 7, incorporating ch-8 sp of Rnd
mandalas in King Cole’s Giza cotton 4ply. 8 into the sts; ch1, (does not count as st), dc
GO PRO
It matches February in our calendar. in same st, *working all sts into Rnd 7, htr in
4PLY 2.5MM next tr, tr in next tr, (tr, dtr) in next tr, 3dtr in
WEIGHT HOOK
MANDALA ch-2 sp behind 5-ttr cluster, incorporating
Using Plum, make a magic loop. next ch-8 sp of Rnd 8 into the sts; (dtr, tr) in
Rnd 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 8dc into next tr, tr in next tr, htr in next tr, dc in each
YOU WILL NEED the loop, ss to first dc to join. [8 sts] of next 2 tr; rep from * another 7 times,
Q King Cole Giza Cotton 4ply (100% Rnd 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr in st at base of omitting last dc, ss to top of first dc. [104 sts]
cotton, 50g/158m), 1 ball of each: ch-3, 2tr in next st, *3tr in next st, 2tr in next Fasten off Rosehip.
Pink (2192) st; rep from * twice more, ss to top of beg Rnd 10 Join Pink to first htr, ch1 (does not
Coral (2196) ch-3. [20 sts] Fasten off Plum. count as st), dc in same st, *dc in each of
Rosehip (2197) Rnd 3 Join Pink to first st, ch1 (does not next 3 sts, (dc, ch1) in each of next 2 sts, dc
Bluebell (2198) count as st), 3dc in same st, *spike st into in each of next 5 sts, fivetr in skipped dc in
Plum (2199) centre of magic loop, skip next tr, dc in next Rnd 4 below, skip next 2 dc of Rnd 9, dc in
Argent (2249) tr, 2dc in next tr, spike st into centre of magic next st; rep from * another 7 times, omitting
Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook loop, skip next tr, 3dc in next tr; rep from * last dc, ss to top of first dc. [88 dc,
For yarn stockists, contact another 3 times, omitting last 3dc, ss to first 8 fivetr and 16 ch-1 sps] Fasten off Pink.
King Cole 01756 703670 dc. [32 sts] Rnd 11 Join Bluebell to dc after first ch-1 sp,
www.kingcole.com Rnd 4 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same ch3 (counts as tr), *ch7, dc in next fivetr, ch7,
st and in each st around, ss to first dc. tr in dc after next ch-1 sp; rep from * another
MEASUREMENTS Fasten off Pink. 7 times, omitting last tr, ss to top of beg
17.5cm (6¾in) diameter Rnd 5 Join Rosehip to first st, ch3 (counts as ch-3.[16 ch-7 sps, 8 dc, 8 tr]
tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next st, 2tr in Rnd 12 *Ch4, 3tr in 6th ch of next ch-7 sp,
ABBREVIATIONS next st, *skip next st, 2tr in next st, tr in next skip next (ch, dc, ch), 3tr in 2nd ch of next
Fivetr Yrh 5 times, insert hook into st, 2tr in next st; rep from * another 6 times, ch-7 sp, ch4, ss in next tr; rep from * another
st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, skip last st, ss to top of beg ch-3. [40 sts] 7 times working last ss into ss at end of Rnd
(yrh and draw through 2 sts) 6 times Rnd 6 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in st at base of 11. [16 ch-4 sps, 48 tr and 8 ss]
4-ttr cluster *yrh 3 times, insert ch-3, *tr in next st, ch2, skip next st, tr in Fasten off Bluebell.
hook in st indicated, yrh and pull up next st, 2tr in each of next 2 sts; rep from * Rnd 13 Join Coral to any ss, *(ch4, 2ttr, ch2,
loop, (yrh and draw through 2 loops) another 7 times, omitting last 2 tr, ss to top tr, ch2, 2ttr, ch4, ss) in same ss (to create
3 times; rep from * another 3 times, of beg ch-3, do not fasten off. [48 tr and 8 heart motif), ch6, 3-dtr cluster in next
inserting hook in the same st each ch-2 sps] skipped dc in Rnd 11, ch6, ss to next ss in
time, yrh and draw through all loops Rnd 7 Ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr in next tr, tr in Rnd 12; rep from * another 7 times working
on hook next tr, ch2, skip next ch-2 sp, *(tr in next tr, last ss into first ss. [8 heart motifs, 16 ch-6
5-ttr cluster As above, repeating 2tr in next tr, tr in next tr) twice, ch2, skip sps, 8 3-dtr clusters and 8 ss]
from * another 4 times. next ch-2 sp; rep from * another 6 times, tr Fasten off Coral.
3-dtr cluster *yrh twice, insert hook in next tr, 2tr in next tr, tr in next tr, ss to top Rnd 14 Join Plum to 2nd ch of first ch-4 sp
in st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, of beg ch-3. [64 tr and 8 ch-2 sps] of Rnd 12, working sts into Rnd 12 and
(yrh and draw through 2 loops) Fasten off Rosehip. incorporating ch-6 sp of Rnd 13 into sts, ch1
twice; rep from * twice more, Rnd 8 Working in front of Rnds 6 and 7, join (does not count as st), dc in same st, *dc in
inserting hook in the same st each Argent in first skipped tr of Rnd 5, ch4, 4-ttr 3rd and 4th ch of same ch-4 sp, dc in each of
time, yrh and draw through all 4 cluster in same tr (counts as first 5-ttr next 3 tr, dc in top of 3-dtr cluster of Rnd 13,
loops on hook cluster), ch8, *5-ttr cluster in next skipped tr incorporating next ch-6 sp of Rnd 13 into sts
Spike st Insert hook in st/sp of Rnd 5, ch8; rep from * another 6 times, and working into Rnd 12; dc in each of next
indicated and draw yarn up level ss to top of the first cluster. [8 5-ttr clusters, 3 tr, dc in each of first 3 ch of ch-4 sp, ch4,
with the current row, complete as 8 ch-8 sps] Fasten off Argent. holding yarn behind Rnd 13, dc in 2nd ch of
for dc stitch Rnd 9 Join Rosehip to 5th tr of any 8 tr next ch-4 sp of Rnd 12, incorporating ch-6
For a full list, see page 92 sp of Rnd 13 into sts; rep from * another 7
times omitting last dc, ss to top of first dc.
IT’S THE YEAR OF THE GIZA MANDALA [104 dc, 8 ch-4 sps] Fasten off Plum.
Rnd 15 Join Argent to 2nd dc, *ch2, tr in
All 12 mandalas in our 2017 calendar series are hooked in Giza,
next dc, ch2, ss to next dc, (ch2, tr in next dc,
King Cole’s 100% cotton 4ply. The mercerised Egyptian cotton is
ch2, tr in next dc, ch2, ss to next dc) twice,
fine, has a brilliant sheen and a luxurious feel. The cotton is grown
ch2, tr in next dc, ch2, ss to next dc, skip
in its namesake city, Giza. The purity of the soil there results in
next dc, ch5, holding yarn behind Rnd 13,
fantastic clarity and depth in each of the 20 colourways. For the
skip ch-4 sp and next dc, ss to next dc; rep
chance to win six balls of Giza yarn to hook this design, head to
from * 7 times. [80 ch-2 sps, 48 tr, 40 ss, 8
www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk/win-king-cole-giza-yarn
ch-5 sps] Fasten off Argent. Weave in ends.

96 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
 Pretty Boho top
Planned colour
pooling

Jasmine stitch
Tribal home
projects

baby cardigan
And more…

+ Free!
Easter toy booklet

ON SALE THURS 2 MAR

* Contents subject to change
 HOOKY TREASURE
Perpetual summer
Maaike von Koert, the Dutch designer and blogger behind
creJJtion, has a very special shawl in her wardrobe.
T
his design is called Zomersjaal, which
translates from the original Dutch as ‘summer
shawl’. It was one of the projects I included in
my first crochet book Puur Haken, and is the
first ever shawl that I designed and made.
There are so many reasons why this is my favourite
crochet treasure: because of the yarn it’s made from;
because of the colour; because of how much I’ve
worn it, and also because of when I made it.
The shawl was crocheted with yarn from my stash,
which always pleases me. It was yarn I got while living
abroad in Canada, so there are lots of good memories
attached to it. I lived in Canada for two years and left
a little piece of my heart there.
The yarn is Louet Canada’s GEMS, which is a 100%
merino yarn in a worsted weight, dyed in a rich ochre
colour. It took two skeins to make the shawl. The
colour’s not one that’s usually in my comfort zone; but
the shawl turned out to be the one I wear the most,
and that’s partly due to its colour. Who would have
thought? I wear lots of navy and black, so this shawl
really completes every outfit I have.
The timing of the shawl is important, too, as I made
it while I was pregnant with my daughter Annabel,
98 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
and for some reason all items that I made during the
pregnancy are very special to me.
It took me one weekend to crochet this shawl – it
literally flew off my hook. During the weekend I was
working on it, I didn’t cook and I hardly slept! I used a
fan stitch base, which I edged nicely with some more
decorative stitches and bobbles.
As much as I love this shawl, I also find it fantastic
that so many other people love it too. The most
rewarding feedback I’ve had about the design is
hundreds of people crocheting it over and over again,
and showcasing them on their blogs and Instagram
accounts. Everyone comments about how calming
the rhythm of this pattern is, and I have to agree.
If you like the look of this shawl, then you can find
the pattern inside my Puur Haken book. It’s written in
Dutch but it includes a stitch diagram, so if you’re happy
with using these then you’ll be fine.
This first shawl was so lovely to design that I’m
currently working on a couple more and will be
posting those patterns in my online shops soon!
You can find Maaike’s beautiful blog at www.
crejjtion.com and shop for her book and crochet
patterns at www.creJJtion.etsy.com
 love to Crochet
New DMC Cocoon a Super Chunky yarn

Only 1 ball
to make a
£9.99
Snood! a ball

Free patterns available to download at the website

Visit us online for a huge range of Cottons for Knitting and Crocheting at:

www.purplelindacrafts.co.uk
isSue fIfty-Three see our Back
2017’s going to be the
year of the mandala. IssUe ProJects in
This issue, you’ll find
DetAil on RavEl
the first mandala in our ry
new series and all kinds Http://bit.ly/
RavSiMplYc
of hooky treats. How
about cosy textured
stitches, beautiful
blankets, floaty mohair
accessories and a
sparkling shawl? We’ve
got your winter sorted.

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