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PHOTOGRAPHY

My
Fujifilm
JPEG
Settings
October 10, 2018

D
ue to the
popularity
of my post
on switching from
shooting RAW to JPEG
for my images, I
thought I best create
one where you can
see my Fuji�lm JPEG
settings.   These are
much like using
presets in Lightroom
but you are applying
them to the image
there and then.   The
below settings are the
ones I use everyday
and were developed
through my time in
Singapore, Chiang Mai
and Bangkok.  At �rst,
in Singapore, I wasn’t
so good.   I kept
changing my mind on
how a photo should
look so I kept
switching JPEG
pro�les.  However, by
the time of my last
stop in Bangkok, I was
much more settled.  
Now, I choose the
setting and leave it.

I cannot however take


the full credit.   My
Fuji�lm JPEG settings
were created through
researching other
Fuji�lm shooters;
most notably Kevin
Mullins and Ritchie
Roesch.   Whilst Kevin
focuses on weddings
and Ritchie on
emulating classic �lm
looks, I thought I
would see how JPEGs
fare for travel
photography.

Before going any


further, you might
want to check out an
up to date example of
my JPEG settings in
action.   I took my
camera out for a spin
around Edinburgh
and was over the
moon with how the
photos turned out!

Setting Up
The
Camera
Before I get into each
of my custom
settings, it is worth
mentioning how I set
my Fuji�lm X-T2 up so
that it is easier to
shoot JPEGs.   With
RAW, you get a lot of
�exibility when it
comes to post-
processing yet, with
JPEG, nearly
everything has to be
perfect at the time
you press the
shutter.  I like the X-T2
for this as everything
is easily accessible
especially when it
comes to exposure
compensation.   I’d
hate to try this with a
di�erent brand.

I am a big believer in
letting the camera do
most of the work for
me.   Many will
probably disagree
with me but I �nd it
much easier to
concentrate on
capturing images than
constantly �ddling
with settings.   Whilst
I’ve set up the whole
camera for the way I
shoot, these are the
main ones that will
help you get better
JPEGs.

Aperture
Priority
I shoot in aperture
priority almost all of
the time.   Unless
there are exceptional
circumstances, for
example night
cityscapes or panning,
which require me to
manually adjust the
shutter speed, I just
let the camera do the
work for me.  You will
want to control the
depth of �eld yourself
and this is exactly
what aperture priority
allows.   All I have to
do is choose my
desired aperture
(often between wide
open and f/8) and the
camera chooses the
shutter speed.   When
the shutter speed gets
too slow, my Auto ISO
setting steps in to
assist.

Auto ISO
I’m perfectly happy
with stills produced at
high ISO and, if the
situation requires it, I
have no issue with
going up to 12,800.  
Whilst I don’t shoot
professionally, I’d
rather put up with
noise and have a
useable image than
one that comes out
blurry.

I therefore use the


following Auto ISO
settings:

ISO Dial set to A


Default Sensitivity
200 (although it
often increases to
400 even in bright
daylight)
Max. Sensitivity
12,800
Min. Shutter Speed
1/125

I �nd that a minimum


shutter speed of
1/125 is enough to
maintain sharp
images and the
camera will increase
the ISO if the shutter
speed drops below
that �gure.

Exposure
Compensation
In order to get the
image properly
exposed in camera, I
�nd that I often set
the exposure
compensation to +1
or sometimes even
+2.  This is where the
Electronic View Finder
(EVF) comes in handy
– you can see exactly
how the JPEG is going
to look no matter
what setting you
change.   Mirrorless is
the way forward I’m
telling you! I’ve also
added the Histogram
to the EVF which tells
me whether an image
is properly exposed or
not.

However, instead of
just �icking turning
the exposure dial
manually, I have it set
to C all of the time.  I
then set the
command dial on the
front of my camera to
adjust the exposure
compensation; this
way you get up to 5
stops instead of 3.  
Not that I really need
5, but I actually �nd it
so much quicker to
use the command
dial.

My Fuji�lm
JPEG
Settings
To create your own
JPEG settings, head to
Edit/Save Custom
Setting in the IQ
section of the menu. 
From here you can
save seven di�erent
settings, all for
di�erent scenarios if
you wish.  To make it
even easier to switch
between settings, I
changed my FN5
button to ‘Select
Custom Setting.’  With
the camera to my eye,
I can simply and very
easily change presets.

Astia Travel
This is the one I use
nearly all the time; for
day to day images
when exploring as
well as my food
shots.  Astia is such a
versatile �lm
simulation.  I love it so
much I even used
Astia when I had
VSCO presets.   For
more sample images,
make sure you check
out my post on
Fuji�lm’s Astia.

Dynamic Range
(DR) Auto
Film Simulation (FS)
Astia
Grain O�
White Balance (WB)
Auto +1 Red
Highlight -1
Shadow +2
Color +2
Sharpness -1
Noise Reduction
(NR) -3

Chrome
Urban
Ah Classic Chrome.
The �lm simulation of
Gods. I believe it’s
Fuji�lm’s version of a
very popular Kodak
�lm.   This is the one
that I switch to for
street photography or
if it starts to rain.  The
combination of Classic
Chrome and
re�ections in rain is
just beautiful; in a
grungy kind of way.

DR Auto
FS Classic Chrome
Grain O�
WB Auto +1 Red
Highlight 0
Shadow +2
Color +3
Sharpness +3
NR -3

You can check out


more examples of my
Classic Chrome
setting here.

Velvia LS
For landscapes, I
often use Velvia which
really brings out the
colour in every scene. 
I also used this in
Little India in
Singapore where the
bright colours couldn’t
have been captured
any other way.  I don’t
however �nd myself
using this too much.

DR Auto
FS Velvia
Grain O�
WB Auto +1 Red
Highlight -1
Shadow +3
Color +4
Sharpness +2
NR -1

Pro Port
I owe this one to
Kevin Mullins; it’s a
really soft and subtle
setting used for
portraits.   I don’t
shoot that many
portraits at all but I
found that it worked
well in capturing
details in a Bangkok
hotel.  However, when
I have used it for a
portrait, it works
wonders.   I love the
look this gives and
hopefully will use it
more once I buy the
56mm f/1.2.

DR Auto
FS Pro Neg. Hi (You
could use the
standard version
for something even
subtler)
Grain Weak
WB Auto +1 Red
Highlight -2
Shadow +2
Color -3
Sharpness +1
NR -2

Acros 1R
I’ve always had a
funny relationship
with black and white
images.  I mean, I love
them, but I never
found my pictures
were good enough.  
Enter Fuji�lm’s Acros
�lm simulation.   It
isn’t a �lm that I’ve
ever used before but
as soon as I applied
the Acros setting on
my camera, I fell in
love.  Especially when
you add in the Red
�lter.   It just adds a
kind of contrast that
does wonders for
photos.   On my 29th
birthday in Bangkok, I
set out to record all of
it solely in black and
white and the pictures
came out beautiful!

DR Auto
FS Acros Red
Grain O�
WB Auto +1 Red
Highlight -1
Shadow +3
Sharpness +1
NR -1

Acros 2
Another black and
white setting with
Acros but this time it’s
a lot more subtle with
the added Green
�lter.   I use this one
very occasionally.

DR 200
FS Acros
Grain O�
WB Auto +1 Red
Highlight +2
Shadow +2
Sharpness +2
NR -2

Superia 800
I love Ritchie Roesch’s
recreations of classic
�lms and here’s a
great one of Fujicolor
Superia 800.   On his
website, he explains a
lot more about the
�lm look so here I’ll
just put down the
settings I use for it.  
Sometimes I switch
the white balance to
Auto and manually
input the colour shift
but often I’ll forget so
I’ve set it up on the
Daylight setting.   It
doesn’t work all the
time but, when it
does, I love it!  I leave
this setting, number 7,
for my ‘creative’ looks
and will change it
regularly.   I tried
Ritchie’s version of
Kodak Portra 400 but
I couldn’t get away
with the white
balance.  However, he
does show that it can
be beautiful!
DR 200
FS Pro Neg
Standard
Grain Weak
WB Daylight -2 Red
-3 Blue
Highlight +1
Shadow +2
Color +4
Sharpness +1
NR -1

Post-
Processing
To add a bit of an
extra punch, I have
set up an Import
Preset for my JPEGs
which is applied to all
of my photos.   I add
+10 contrast, +35
clarity and -5 vignette
and a small S-Curve.  
I’m not sure whether
you’ll �nd all of this
pointless as I could do
everything in RAW
and just apply Presets
along the way.  
However, shooting
this way rapidly
speeds up my editing
process.   I can
concentrate on
shooting more and
worrying less about
having to spend hours
and hours editing.

Hopefully, you’ll use


these settings as
inspiration for your
own photos.   Over
time, I may adjust
these more to my
liking.  Of course, they
might not work for
you but I really
encourage you to try
and shoot JPEG only
from now on.   I do
have to admit that,
thanks to the X-T2’s
dual card slots, I
shoot RAW & JPEG.  
The RAWs are only as
a backup and just stay
on my 64GB card in
my camera.  Once I’m
happy with the JPEGs
and I’m con�dent I
haven’t messed
anything up, the RAW
�les are just deleted.

If you fancy sticking


round a bit longer,
why not check out
what’s in my camera
bag?

Leave a comment
below or send me a
message if you want
to know more and
just discuss
photography in
general.
If you enjoyed
‘My Fuji�lm
JPEG Settings’
why not pin
the image
below?

Please note that this


post contains a�liate
links where I receive a
small payment if you
go on to purchase the
product.   This will not
cost you anything more
and just helps me keep
this blog up and
running.  I would never
recommend a product
that I don’t absolutely
love too!

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Acros Astia

Camera Settings

Classic Chrome

Fuji X-T2 fuji�lm

JPEG Superia 800

Velvia X-T2

34 Comments

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34 COMMENTS

OREN
AGAMI
OCTOBER

10,

2018 AT 11:32

PM REPLY

Great
post,
man. I’m
going to
try your
presets
with my
x100f [:
JAMIECHANCETRAVELS
OCTOBER

11,

2018 AT 7:59

REPLY
AM

Ah
thank
you!!
Let
me
know
how
you
�nd
them!
Cheers

MATT
MAY

25,

2019 AT 12:04

REPLY
PM

I
use
the
same
�lm
sims
but
with
some
modi�ed
settings.
My favorites
are also Astia
(with low
contrast and a
slight color
boost) and
Kodachrome II
(more
contrast, less
color, wb shift
towards
orange).

For portraits
however pro
negative is
lovely.

QUENTIN
OCTOBER

11,

2018 AT 2:41

PM REPLY

Nice!
Speeding
up the
post
processing
is always
great
when
traveling,
allows
more
time to work on the
gram haha!

JAMIECHANCETRAVELS
OCTOBER

11,

2018 AT 2:42

REPLY
PM

Haha
de�nitely
although
I
�nd
no
matter
how
much
work
I
put
into
that
these
days
i
never
get
any
further
haha!
KASIAWRITES
OCTOBER

11,

2018 AT 5:39

PM REPLY

I always
love to
hear
how
others
take
their
shots. I
use
Canon
camera
and am
quite
happy
with it. I
do �nd
that a
shot
done
well
before
eliminates
the
processing
after. I’m
not fully
decided
on set
settings
so I
adjust a
lot of
them as I
take the shots.

JAMIECHANCETRAVELS
OCTOBER

11,

2018 AT 5:47

REPLY
PM

Me
too
I
love
to
know
how
other
people
shoot!
Good
I
know
a
lot
of
happy
Canon
users
but
for
me
it
was
Fuji�lm
that
made
me fall back in
love with
photography!
How manual it
all can be!

OSVALDO
MEDINA
OCTOBER
13,

2018 AT 3:25

PM REPLY

I have
been
trying
some of
your
custom
sets on a
xpro2
and i like
them a
lot!

JAMIECHANCETRAVELS
OCTOBER

15,

2018 AT 4:24

REPLY
PM

Ah
thank
you
very
much!

MARCIN
NOVEMBER

9,

2018 AT 10:56
PM REPLY

Thanks
man,
that is
something
I was
looking
for after
purchasing
the
camera.
Great
stu� !
I just
wonder
if there
is a way
to
somehow
transfer
those
settings
to the
raw �le,
so that if
you
decide to
process
it, you
start
from
your jpg
version
of raw
JAMIECHANCETRAVELS
NOVEMBER

16,

2018 AT 7:47

REPLY
AM

Hey
sorry
for
the
late
reply!
I
had
replied
but
somehow
it’s
been
deleted!
I’m
not
sure
exactly
how
to
do
that
although
I
think
I
saw
someone
mention
Capture
One
software
can
read the
original JPEG
information!
I’m still
surprised at
what editing I
can manage
with a JPG �le
especially in
Lightroom
which doesn’t
actually a�ect
the original
�le, just a copy
of it!

ANTONIO
DE LUCA
JANUARY 17,

2019 AT 1:15

PM REPLY

hey
thank
you for
the really
good
instruction
and
ideas…
can you
explain
where
do you
save
your presets on the
camera? Do you use
the Q Menu? Thank
you

JAMIECHANCETRAVELS
JANUARY

17,

2019 AT 5:16

REPLY
PM

Thank
you!
I
use
the
Custom
Settings
in
the
menu
and
then
change
the
right
D-pad
to
custom
settings!
TIM BINDNER
REPLY
JANUARY 21, 2019 AT 7:42

PM

I love these settings. I


do wonder how you
get the WB as Auto +1
Red?

JAMIECHANCETRAVELS
JANUARY

22,

2019 AT 12:30

REPLY
PM

Hi!
I
added
WB
setting
to
one
of
the
Dpads
and
then
when
you
click
on
Auto
it
should
give
you
a full colour
spectrum – I
then press
right on the
Dpad once to
get +1 red!
Thanks

TIM
BINDNER
JANUARY 22,

2019 AT 12:34

PM REPLY

Thanks

JENS
FEBRUARY

22,

2019 AT 2:46

PM REPLY

Thanks,
this is
highly
appreciated!

JAMIECHANCETRAVELS
FEBRUARY 22,
2019 AT 2:54

REPLY
PM

No
worries
at
all!
Hope
this
helps!
UTZ
FEBRUARY

22,

2019 AT 5:28

PM REPLY

Great
post, I
like your
JPEG
settings
very
much, it
works
very
good to
me. May
you
could
present
some
presets
for night
shots?

JAMIECHANCETRAVELS
FEBRUARY

23,

2019 AT 3:29

REPLY
PM

Thank
you!
I
use
the
astia one quite
a bit at night –
check these
photos out
which were
with that
present!
https://www.jamiechancetravels.com
/2019/01
/22/new-years-
eve-in-
allendale-the-
tar-barl/

CORY
MARCH 28,

2019 AT 2:08

AM REPLY

Awesome
post. I
�nd I am
using in
cam
jpegs on
my
travels
for street
scenes.
About to
try your
chrome
recipe in
Taipei
this
morning on my xt2

Cheers,
Cory

JAMIECHANCETRAVELS
MARCH

28,

2019 AT 8:05

REPLY
AM

Ah
that’s
awesome
thank
you!!
I
hope
you
enjoy
them!
I’m
jealous
of
your
travels
now!

RICHARD
R.JACKSON
APRIL 8,

2019 AT 8:44
PM REPLY

I’m an
older
guy that
has
loved
cameras
since I’ve
been a
kid.
Came
across
your site
and was
quite
impressed.
Just
bought a
Fuji XT3
because
I have
used Fuji
�lm in
the past
and
really
liked the
results.
I’m a
little
intimidated
with all
the
settings
this
camera
has. I
think
your settings would
be a great starting
point. There is a
phrase that I have
been quite familiar
with “KISS”, because
of my work
experience in
computers. I’m sure
you have heard of it
and know what that
means. Thanks again
for your site. Look
forward to checking it
often.

Best Regards,
Dick J

JAMIECHANCETRAVELS
APRIL

12,

2019 AT 8:11

REPLY
AM

Thank
you
for
the
comment
and
taking
the
time
to
read my blog!
That camera
looks an
absolute beast
which you’ll
really enjoy!

Thanks again

Jamie

RICARDO
COHEN
MAY 8,

2019 AT 7:16

AM REPLY

I tried
you
recipe
Astia
Travel
and it is
simply
amazing.
Thank
you so
much for
it and
your
other
jpeg
settings.
JAMIECHANCETRAVELS
MAY

8,

2019 AT 7:20

REPLY
AM

Thank
you!
Really
glad
you
like
it!!
I
love
the
classic
chrome
one
too;
I’ve
found
it
perfect
for
sunny
days!

RICARDO
COHEN
MAY 9,

2019 AT 1:41

AM REPLY

I have
been
playing with you
settings some more. I
noticed you are using
an XT-2. I have an XT-3
and I am using Fuji
Raw windows app to
store the recipe. The
one thing I noticed is
the your recipes use
Shadow +2 and my
photos appear too
dark. Shadow 0 on the
other hand seems to
give it a more natural
look.

By the way this is no


criticism. I am just
wondering if there is a
possibility that the
XT-3 sensor and color
engine might be
di�erent than on the
XT-2 and perhaps
giving me a di�erent
look than your XT-2. I
am newbie with
Fuji�lm and I admit
my theory might be
ridiculous.

Keep up the good


work.

Best Regards.
JAMIECHANCETRAVELS
MAY

9,

2019 AT 8:16

REPLY
AM

That’s
strange!
Recently
I’ve
been
trying
some
Acros
with
+4
shadows
which
is
just
so
punchy!
I
have
to
get
the
exposure
right
in
camera
often
plus
one
and
then
some
adjustment
in
Lightroom!
Cheers
Jpeg. I
am
then
going to
use Fuji
X Raw,
take the
raw
image,
and
apply
the
recipe.
The
compare
the Fuji
X Raw
generated
jpeg
with the
one
coming
from
the
camera.
They
should
look
identical.
If they
are
di�erent
then it
might
an
issue
with
how
Fuji X
Raw is
applying
to the
recipes
to
generate
the
jpeg. If
you
like, I
can
post my
results
here

JAMIECHANCETRAVELS
MAY

10,

2019 AT 7:34

REPLY
AM

Thank
you!
Yeah
I’d
be
really
interested
to
see
that!
JÖRG
MAY 15,

2019 AT 5:36

PM REPLY

Hi Jamie,
just to
understand,
what is
the DR
setting
(,Auto,
200)
doing for
the look?
I know
how it
works
technically
but I was
wondering
if it also
contributes
to the
speci�c
look of
each
recipe.
Thx.

JAMIECHANCETRAVELS
MAY

15,

2019 AT 5:43

REPLY
PM
Thanks – I
haven’t done a
particular
comparison of
each photo
with di�erent
DR settings but
I always want
to try and
preserve
highlights!
bright
daylight
I guess
this
happens
because
your
camera
is set
to.DR
Auto
and the
dynamic
range
of the
scene is
too
high.

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