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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

TOP 10
dubrovnik
& the dalmatian coast

ČKA
A G R E BA
Bari, Ortona, Rijeka, Split
Greater Dubrovnik
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10
Town
KO V
Z L AT AR

DUN
Synagogue Sponza

DU
) Palace Adriatic Sea
OD
PO L
AČA LUŽA North
Onofrio’s Pier
Lokrum
St Blaise’s Little
Church Fountain 1 miles 0 km 1
Orthodox Old Port Cavtat
P RED DV OM

Church

Unspoilt beaches
OR

Museum Rector’s
Palace 10
South

Historic towns
GUNDULIŒEVA Pier
GA

POLJANA
10
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St John’s
KA

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POLJANA
Fort
NJI
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MARINA DRŽIŒA

10Porporela Museums & galleries


RA

JA NA J U DE
BUNIŒEVA KN EZ A DAM KEY
D.

POLJANA
TIJERNE
OD P US Top 10 place of interest
Pristine islands
BAN D U R

Cathedral
B RAŒE

10 Other place of interest


A

Pu s t i j e r n a
V AŠ

AN DRIJ

E VA

Activities for children Ferry port


HR

POLJANA
10
E SA

POBIJANA

R. BOŠKOVIŒA
IĆA

Bus terminal
KN

A
MIR

Great sailing destinations


D
10
I S PO
Tourist information
Parking
10 Churches & cathedrals
10 Liveliest festivals
10 Best hotels for every budget
10 Insider tips for every visitor

YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING


TOP 10
DUBROVNIK
& THE DAMATIAN COAST

ROBIN AND JENNY MCKELVIE

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
Contents

Left Excursion boat, Cavtat Right Fish platter, Nostromo, Split

Contents
Top 10 of Dubrovnik
& the Dalmatian Coast
Produced by DP Services, London
Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore
Printed and bound in China by Leo Paper Products Ltd Old City Walls, Dubrovnik 8
First American Edition, 2006
10 11 12 13 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Published in the United States by Stradun, Dubrovnik 10
DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street, New York,
New York 10014
Reprinted with revisions 2008, 2010
Copyright 2006, 2010 ©
Rector’s Palace, Dubrovnik 14
Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Company
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under
copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may
Korčula Town 16
be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval
system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means
(electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or
otherwise), without the prior written permission of both
Trogir 18
the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book.
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
A catalog record for this book is available from the Krka National Park 20
Library of Congress.
ISSN 1479-344X
ISBN: 978-0-75666-138-0
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy of Diocletian’s Palace, Split 22
quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in the editor’s
opinion, of roughly equal merit.
Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with
British usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor above Kornati National Park 26
ground level.

Cathedral of St James,
Šibenik 28

Zadar Old Town 30

The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.


Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of
going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices,
gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers
cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for
any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this
book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of
our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,
Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, Great Britain WC2R 0RL.

Cover: Front – 4Corners Images: SIME/Johanna Huber main; DK Images: Lucio Rossi clb. Spine: DK Images:
Lucio Rossi b. Back – DK Images: Lucio Rossi c, cl, cr.
Contents
Left Onofrio’s Fountain, Stradun, Dubrovnik Right River Čikola, Krka National Park

Moments in Dalmatian Around Dubrovnik


History 34 & the Dalmatian Coast

Old Towns 36 Dubrovnik 58

Cathedrals & Churches 38 Northern Dalmatia 72

Museums & Galleries 40


Central Dalmatia 80
Beaches 42
Southern Dalmatia 90
Sporting Activities 44
Streetsmart
Sailing Destinations 46
Practical Information 100
Restaurants 48
Places to Stay 110
Things to Buy 50
General Index 118
Activities for Children 52
Phrase Book 126

Festivals & Events 54 Dalmatia Map Index 128

Left Old town, Dubrovnik Right Croatian National Theatre, Split


TOP 10 OF
DUBROVNIK
& THE
DALMATIAN

TOP 10 OF DUBROVNIK & THE DALMATIAN COAST


COAST
Highlights
6–7
Old City Walls,
Dubrovnik
8–9
Stradun, Dubrovnik
10–13
Rector’s Palace,
Dubrovnik
14–15
Kor¦ula Town
16–17
Trogir
18–19
Krka National Park
20–21
Diocletian’s Palace, Split
22–25
Kornati National Park
26–27
8Vi]ZYgVad[Hi?VbZh!
Ëibenik
28–29
Zadar Old Town
30–31
Top 10 of Everything
34–55
Highlights
Whether you visit for the sun, the sailing, the scenery, or some of the freshest
seafood you’ll find anywhere, the Dalmatian coast is quite simply one of
Europe’s most stunning escapes. Long stretches of glorious shoreline are
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

framed between striking limestone mountains and the azure waters of the
Adriatic, where hundreds of islands, inhabited and uninhabited, await
exploration. The coastline is punctuated by a series of lively towns and cities,
in which the region’s long and eclectic history comes alive in wonderfully
preserved “old cores” that are no mere museum-pieces, but vibrant, bustling
hubs of activity – nowhere more so than Dubrovnik, a UNESCO World Heritage
Site now returned to its former splendour after the siege of the early 1990s.

! Old City Walls,


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£ Rector’s Palace, Dubrovnik


Under the Republic of Ragusa,
the city’s figurehead presided here,
amidst a flurry of Gothic and
Renaissance architecture. This
impressive palace has now been
reinvented as a museum and
cultural venue (see pp14–15).

$ Korčula Town
It may or may not be
the birthplace of Marco
Polo, but Korčula Town is
simply sublime, set on its
own peninsula, framed by
sea and mountains. Its
cathedral is one of the most
charming ecclesiastical
buildings in the Adriatic
(see pp16–17).

6 Preceding pages View of rooftops from Dubrovnik city walls


% Trogir
Set on its own
island, this perfectly
preserved old city
shimmers with
churches, palaces and

Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


one of Europe’s most striking
cathedrals, whose beauty is
recognized by UNESCO
(see pp18–19).

^ Krka National Park


Established to protect the middle and
lower reaches of the River Krka, this idyllic
natural playground of lakes, waterfalls and
waterways near Šibenik attracts small kids
and big kids alike (see pp20–21).

& Diocletian’s Palace, Split


The palatial, UNESCO-World-
Heritage-listed retirement home of
Emperor Diocletian forms the frenetic
heart of the dashing Mediterranean
city of Split (see pp22–5).

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* Kornati National Park
This necklace of largely uninhabited
islands strung out in the Adriatic has
become a paradise for sailors, and for
%RVDQVNR those looking to escape the strains and
*UDKRYR
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Zadar Old Town


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now back to its lively best, with


Slavic culture meeting Roman
remnants on a striking Adriatic
peninsula (see pp30–31).

Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com 7


Old City Walls, Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik’s voluminous city walls, up to 6 m (20 ft) thick and 22 m (72 ft)
high in places, are a stunning site. A cradle of stone, they helped to protect
one of the most perfectly preserved medieval cities in Europe, as well as
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

safeguarding the independence of the city-state for centuries. Running from


the steep cliffs to the north through to the Adriatic in the south, they proved
an impenetrable barrier to pirates and potential conquerors, until the keys to
the gates were finally handed over to the French on 31 January 1808, and the
Republic of Dubrovnik (or Ragusa, to use its former name) came to an end.
Top 10 Sights
1 Pile Gate
2 Minčeta Fort
3 Ploče Gate
4 Revelin Fort
Steps up to the track along
the top of the walls 5 Rooftops
6 St John’s Fort
Buža, perched
outside the southern
7 Maritime Museum
walls overlooking the 8 Drinks Counter
Adriatic and Lokrum, 9 Bokar Fort
is a bar well worth 0 Boat Trip
seeking out. No food
or fancy service here,
but refreshing drinks
and stunning views.
! Pile Gate
This grand western
entrance to the Old City
From the Jesuit
leads, via a drawbridge,
Church, follow the down on to the Stradun.
“cold drinks” sign. Look out for the figure of
Be sure to carry Dubrovnik’s patron saint,
plenty of water, as St Blaise, above the gate
the only place where and, a little further on, for
liquid refreshment is a more modern depiction
available is at the by Ivan Meštrović.
drinks counter on the
southern flank.
@ Minčeta Fort
North of the Pile Gate,
t Map G4 steep steps lead up to an
t Access from the impressive fort (below).
Stradun (next to the Pile Views at sunset from this
Gate), Svetog Dominika 15th-century bastion justify
and Kneza Damjana. Open the exertion to reach it.
Apr–May, Aug–Sep: 8am–
6:30pm daily; Jun–Jul: £ Ploče Gate
The bridge leading to
8am–7pm daily; Oct: 8am– the Ploče Gate (above),
5:30pm daily; Nov–Mar: on the eastern walls,
10am–3pm daily. Adm offers new arrivals
charge 50kn (children 20kn; tantalizing glimpses of
audio handsets available) the city and the old port.
t Maritime Museum: 020
323 904. Open May–Oct:
9am–6pm daily; Nov–Apr: $Revelin Fort
Close to the eastern
9am–2pm Tue–Sun. walls stands this sturdy
Adm charge 35kn 16th-century fortress,
(children/students 15kn; now used for music and
groups 20kn) dance events in summer.

8
3
2 4
0 7

6
% Rooftops 1

Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


The legacy of the 1991–2
siege is evident from the stretch
of wall around the old port. From
here the contrast between the
9
charming, original roof tiles and the
newer replacements, imported from 8
France and Slovenia, is easy to see.

^ St John’s Fort
This fortification
(right) protected the old
port from advancing
enemy ships and was, in
its time, right at the
cutting edge of military
technology. Begun in the
14th century, additions
were being made well
into the 16th century.

& Maritime Museum


Part of St John’s
Fortress is a museum
(see p40), which sheds
light on the Republic of
Ragusa’s rich and eclectic
maritime heritage. The
exhibits include a large
collection of model ships,
sepia photographs of the
* Drinks Counter
On the southern flank
port and historic maps.

of the walls there is an


Libertas
unassuming drinks stand
with outdoor seating. Dubrovnik’s daunting
Pile Gate This is a fine spot to rest city walls are just part
on a hot day and admire of the reason why the

( Bokar Fort
This Renaissance
the hulking fortifications
and the island of Lokrum.
Republic of Ragusa
enjoyed centuries of
fort, designed by independence, at a time
Michelozzo Michelozzi,
watches over the city’s ) Boat Trip
For a completely
when the Venetians and
Turks were vying for
original port. From here different perspective of territory all around the
the Lovrijenac fortress is Dubrovnik’s walls, join a Adriatic. Machiavelli
visible across the water. tour boat or hire a local would have applauded
water taxi (both the skill of the republic’s
leave from the negotiators as they
old port) and played off the various
skirt around the powers against each
base of the city other, dipping into the
(left), where the city’s bountiful gold
Adriatic swishes reserves when all else
against the rocks failed. The word proudly
and the ramparts emblazoned on their flag
soar menacingly was Libertas (freedom).
upward.

9
Stradun, Dubrovnik
The sweeping Stradun, also known as the Placa, is Dubrovnik’s main
thoroughfare, cutting a pedestrianized swathe right through the Old City.
Formed when the narrow channel that separated the Slavic settlement of
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

Dubrovnik on the mainland from the Roman settlement on the island of Raus
was filled in during the 12th century, it has survived the disastrous earthquake
of 1667 and Serb shelling during the Siege of Dubrovnik from 1991 to 1992.
Today this smooth limestone walkway, with its melée of attractive shops, cafés,
bars and restaurants, buzzes with visitors throughout the summer months.
Top 10 Sights
1 Shutters and Lamps
2 Café Culture
3 Onofrio’s Large Fountain
4 Church of St Saviour
Sponza Palace
5 Franciscan Monastery
6 Orlando’s Column
The Café Festival,
housed in one of the
7 Clocktower
Stradun’s graceful 8 Sponza Palace
stone houses, is the 9 Onofrio’s Little Fountain
place to be and be 0 Church of St Blaise
seen on the Stradun.
During the Dubrovnik
Festival, you will have
to be quick to snare
! Shutters and Lamps
For a wonderfully
controlled piece of town
one of the coveted
planning, look at the
outside tables. window shutters and the
lamps along the Stradun
Even if you have (right). They are all painted
seen the Stradun by the same shade of green,
day, you should also giving a cohesiveness not
return at night, when often found in European
floodlighting gives cities these days.
the thoroughfare a
more romantic
ambience.

t Church of St Saviour: Stradun


Map H4. Open 9am–
4pm daily
t Franciscan Monastery: £ Onofrio’s
Fountain
Large
Map H4. Open Apr–Oct: Damaged in the Siege of
9am–6pm daily; Nov– 1991–2, this 15th-century
Mar: 9am–5pm daily. fountain (below) has been
Adm charge 30kn (child- restored. Once, travellers
ren 15kn); discount for would stop here to wash
groups in its gushing waters.
t Church of St Blaise:
Map J5. Open 8am–8pm @ Café Culture
Join the locals for a drink
daily. Free and watch the world go by
t Museum to the Dubrov- (above). Many Stradun cafés
nik Defenders: Sponza fling tables out at the first
Palace. 020 321 032. flash of sunshine, but getting
Map J5. Open daily. Free a seat can be an ordeal at
the height of summer.

10 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com




7

B 79 
D  F
7:K 
IJH

 Church of
St Saviour

Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


The staid Renaissance
façade does little to hint
at the colour inside. Here
regular concerts (above)
and art exhibitions, often
Orlando’s
with work by modern
Dalmatian artists, are held. Franciscan
Monastery
Column
Mystery surrounds
The dark cloisters the statue (left) that
and lush vegetation guards the spot
of this 14th-century where the Stradun
monastery conjure unfurls into Luža
up echoes of the Square. Some
Dubrovnik of old, locals claim that
as do the fascinating this legendary
exhibits of the knight saved the
Monastery Museum. city from disaster
Arrive early to avoid when he fought off
the crowds (see menacing pirates in
pp12–13). the 8th century.

Clocktower
A striking timepiece
(right), this clocktower
dates from the 15th
century. Overhauled in
1929, the duo of bell
strikers visible today are
copies. The originals are
in the Sponza Palace.

Sponza Palace
The inscription “We
are forbidden to cheat
Earthquake of
and use false measures,
and when I weigh goods, 1667
God weighs me”, reveals The earthquake of 1667
this early-16th-century tore the heart out of
palace’s former role as Gothic and Renaissance
the city’s customs house Dubrovnik, killing 5,000
Onofrio’s
Fountain
Little and mint. Today it is home
to the State Archives and
of its citizens and
reducing many of its
Tucked into a building by the Museum to the key buildings to rubble.
the Rector’s Palace, this Dubrovnik Defenders. This terrible tragedy
“little sister” to the large paved the way for the
Onofrio fountain often construction of one of
goes unnoticed. It dates the most impressive
from the 15th century. Baroque cities in
Europe. Carefully
Church of St Blaise
This church (right) sits
planned to sit within
the protective confines
at the top of the Stradun. of the sturdy city walls,
Inside, Dubrovnik’s patron it resisted all intruders
saint, St Blaise, cradles a until the arrival of
model of the city showing Napoleonic troops in
what it looked like before the early 19th century.
the earthquake of 1667.

For Dubrovnik’s best cafés See p65 11


Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

Left Romanesque cloisters Middle Church of St Francis Right Gothic portal

Franciscan Monastery, Stradun


! Romanesque Cloisters
Mihoje Brajkov’s magnificent % Pharmacy
The monastery is home to
14th-century cloisters, with their one of the oldest pharmacies
graceful, double-pillared columns in Europe, with a collection of
deserve a close look. Visit in the treatments and pharmacopoeias
early morning or late afternoon, dating from the 15th century. The
before they become too crowded. dispensary is still operational
(8am–2pm, Mon–Sat).

@ Inner Courtyard
Step into this inner sanctum
^ Church of St Francis
to view the cloisters and admire Most of the original 14th-
the spectacular balustrade that century church was destroyed by
frames the courtyard. the Great Earthquake of 1667.
Remarkable features in this 18th-

£ Frescoes
The life of St Francis and
century reconstruction include
the lavish marble altars and the
his animals is depicted in the ornate organ framed by cherubs.
frescoes that line the cloisters.

$ Belltower & Gothic Portal


An imposing Pietà by Petar
The dome-topped belltower and Leonardo Petrović crowns this
dominating the western end southern portal, all that remains of
of the Stradun dates from the the original 14th-century church.
14th century and features Gothic
and Romanesque elements. Its
majestic presence towers over * Library
The monastery museum
the monastery courtyard. is home to Croatia’s largest
collection of historical
manuscripts, over 1,200, dating
from the early Middle Ages.

( Portraits
The library walls are adorned
with portraits of some of the
city’s most celebrated citizens,
including the mathematician
Ruđer Bošković (1711–87).

) Ivan Gundulić Memorial


A plaque on the north wall of
the church commemorates the
17th-century poet Ivan Gundulić,
Belltower who is buried in the monastery.

12 For visitor information for the Fransiscan Monastery and its


museum See p10
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast
Left Dubrovnik Painting Middle Stone relief of St Francis Right Re-creation of the old pharmacy

Franciscan Monastery Museum


! Dubrovnik Painting
This painting is a % StTheBlaise’s Foot
most prized
revealing insight into how possession in the
medieval Dubrovnik reliquary collection is
looked, before the this foot of St Blaise,
devastating earthquake of preserved in a boot-like
1667 felled the city. gold and silver case.

@ Missile Damage
On 6 December 1991, ^ Religious Painting
The highlight of the
known locally as “Black Portrait of St Blaise museum’s collection of
Tuesday”, Serbian missiles religious art is a 15th-
rained down on Dubrovnik. century portrait of St Blaise, set
Two shell-holes have been left against a striking gold backdrop.
in the museum walls to serve
as reminders of the damage
sustained by the monastery. &
Osman
One of the treasures of
the museum’s library is an
18th-century transcript of Ivan
Gundulić’s Osman. Heralded
as the poet’s masterpiece, it
celebrates a famous Slavic
victory over the Turks.

* Potions and Poisons


Set in a re-creation of the
Missile damage monastery’s original pharmacy
are row upon row of measuring

£ War Record
Inconspicuously located
instruments and traditional
remedies, some lethal poisons.
below the painting of Dubrovnik
is a book cataloguing the
devastation caused by the ( Stone Reliefs
A small open space to one
54 direct hits upon the side of the museum contains odd
monastery during the siege remnants of carved masonry from
of the city in 1991–2. the building, including gargoyles
and segments of old gravestones.

$ Missiles
Tucked into a corner, by a
) StTheFrancis
bench near the entrance to the medieval stone relief of
museum, lie the casings of some St Francis, above the museum
of the missiles that wrought entrance, appears to be casting a
destruction on this tranquil space. protective eye over his domain.

13
Rector’s Palace, Dubrovnik
The Rector of Dubrovnik wielded very little real power. Nominal head of the
government, he was in office for a single month, during which he had to live
away from his family and was only allowed to leave the palace on official
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

business. The original building, more castle than palace, was blown up in 1435.
The new building erected on the site had to be restored after another explosion
in 1463, and again after the earthquake of 1667; today’s palace is a hybrid of
Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles. Dubrovnik no longer has a rector, but
his opulent residence still plays an important role in the cultural life of the city.
Top 10 Sights
1 Gothic Loggia
2 Atrium
3 Statue of Miho Pracat
4 Gundulić Portrait
Latin inscription at the top
of the stairs 5 Statues of St Blaise
6 Prison Cells
The Gradska Kavana
is a café fit for a
7 Stairs
rector, with stunning 8 Inscription
views across Luža 9 Sedan Chairs
Square and down the 0 Rector’s Study
Stradun on one side
and out onto the
historic old port on
the other.

The windows on
the first floor make
a perfect spot for
photographing both
the cathedral and the
displays of folk
dancing that Rector’s Palace
sometimes take
place in the street
£ Statue of Miho
below. If you find the
windows open, just
! Gothic Loggia
This ornately carved
Pracat
Taking pride of place in
pop out your lens loggia (above) was built the atrium is Pietro
using marble from the Giacometti’s 17th-century
and shoot.
Dalmatian island of statue of shipping
Korčula. In the middle of magnate Miho Pracat
t Pred Dvorom 3 the parade of Gothic (left), from the
t Map J5 columns and capitals nearby island of
t 020 321 422 are three in the Lopud. Dying
t Open Apr–Oct: 9am– Renaissance style. without an heir,
6pm daily; Nov–Mar: he left his wealth
9am–4pm daily
t Adm charge 40kn @ Atrium
This compact
to the Republic
of Ragusa.
(children 20kn; groups open-air space offers
25kn) a suitably grand welcome
to visitors and, today, also $ Gundulić Portrait
This is one of the few
serves as a venue for portraits in existence
cultural events, such as of Dubrovnik’s most
recitals by the Dubrovnik celebrated poet, Ivan
Symphony Orchestra. Gundulić (1589–1638).

14 Keep your eyes peeled for statues of St Blaise dotted around the
Old City.
7
Statues of 3 9
% St Blaise 2 8
The sculptures of St Entrance
1
Blaise in the museum
here afford a rare 6
chance to get up close 5

Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


to the city’s patron 4
saint. Most other 0
renderings hang well Key
above head height, or
behind distant glass in
his eponymous church
First Floor

Ground Floor
^ Prison Cells
The ground floor once
(see p38). served as the Republic of
Ragusa’s courtroom and
prison. The dank, gloomy
cells here hint at the
harsh treatment meted
out to inmates, who
relied on friends and
family for food and water.

& Stairs
The rather ghoulish
stairs up to the first floor
are adorned with three
lifelike hands on each rail.
They were used only
once a month, by the
incoming rector at the
start of his term of office.

An Explosive
Inscription Sedan Chairs History
* The inscription in ( In the small room beneath In addition to being the
Latin at the top of the the inscription is abode of the head of
stairs would have put a collection of the Republic of Ragusa,
any rector firmly in his 18th-century as well as the site of
place by reminding sedan chairs the law courts and
him of his duty to (right), that prison, the Rector’s
focus, not on his hints at the Palace also once served
personal concerns, opulence of as a gunpowder store.
but only on public and the city’s This foolishness on the
civic matters. nobility. part of the authorities
unfortunately resulted
) Rector’s Study
In one of the
in the building being
blown sky high on
Palace’s most elegant two occasions. It was
and graceful rooms only after the second
(left), visitors can disastrous explosion
watch a rather lifeless that the city’s leaders
looking dummy of the finally made the
rector (in a garish red decision to move their
gown) hard at work arsenal elsewhere.
on affairs of state.

Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com 15


Korčula Town
It’s easy to see why the explorer Marco Polo would have been drawn back to
his native town Korčula (assuming, that is, that it really was his native town, a
matter of some debate). There is no doubting the beauty of the place, a mosaic
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

of terracotta rooftops encircled by medieval walls and punctuated by church


spires, jutting out into the cobalt blue of the Adriatic with the majestic Pelješac
mountains as a backdrop. Evidence of former Venetian rule abounds, from the
proud Venetian lions adorning its buildings to a cathedral dedicated to St Mark.

Top 10 Features
1 City Walls
2 Land Gate and Steps
3 Town Hall
4 Cathedral of St Mark
Cathedral of St Mark 5 Bishop’s Palace
6 Town Museum
Housed in an old 7 Marco Polo House
bastion, the Massimo 8 Art Shops/Arneri Palace
bar offers sweeping 9 Churches
views out across the 0 Beaches
Pelješki Channel.

In high season, visit


on Mondays and
Thursdays to enjoy
the Moreška (see
opposite and p55).

t Map H1 Korčula Town


t Tourist Information:
! City Walls
Obala Franje Tuđmana.
020 715 701
Korčula’s city walls
proved sturdy enough to £ Town Hall
The 16th-century
t Cathedral of St Mark: see off an onslaught by town hall sits just inside
Trg Sv Marka Statuta. the Ottoman Turks in 1571. the Land Gate. Its small
Open 9am–7pm daily Today large chunks of the loggia recalls Korčula
(until 9pm in summer) fortifications have been Town’s Venetian heritage.
t Bishop’s Palace: Trg Sv cleared to make way for a
Marka Statuta. 020 711
049. Open Jun–Aug:
road, although sections
of wall do remain, with $ Cathedral
St Mark
of
daily; Sep–May: by appt. cannons peering out over This cathedral, completed
Adm charge 15kn the Pelješki Channel (above), in the 15th century, is
t Civic Museum: Trg Sv and a sprinkling of bastions one of the most charming
Marka Statuta. 020 711 still stand guard. ecclesiastical buildings in
420. Open Apr–Jun, Oct: the Adriatic islands. The
10am–2pm Mon–Sat;
Jul–Sep: 9:30am–9pm @ Land
Steps
Gate and interior is a riot of Gothic
and Renaissance styles.
Mon–Sat; Nov–Mar: by The sweep of steps
appt. Adm charge 10kn up to the Land Gate
(children 3kn) (right) provides a
t Marco Polo House: dramatic entrance to
Depolo. Open Jul–Aug: the old town. Set in a
10am–1pm, 5–7pm, 14th-century bastion,
Mon–Sat. Adm charge the gate was once a
10kn crucial strongpoint on
the walls.

16
% Bishop’s Palace

. $
To the south of the

6 9  5 2

Ģ(
Ģ 3$
cathedral stands the

$
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7$ /
9$ 

7,1

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Bishop’s Palace, with a

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' ( 3 2 /2

3 (75 $. $1$9 ( /,È$


statue of Mary, Queen

2 %$ / $9 , 1. $
of Scots. Artworks, ,60$ -(

Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


( //, % ,6.83,
including the cathedral

 67$7 8 7$.2 * 
*,81
,2
treasury, are displayed 


2'7 % $ 1 , Î ( 9 ,È $

16
( $7 5
$

.2 5 Î 8 / $
Ŀ, 7 1
here. The highlights of , & $

. $ 325 29$
the collection are
)2 Ģ$
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paintings by Bassano 
5 $0 3$

5$ 
and Carpaccio (right).

25 76 
1$ .,+
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+ 2%
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  7 5 $ 9 1 -$

^ Town Museum
In the main square
opposite the cathedral is
a small civic museum,
housed in the striking
16th-century Gabriellis
Palace. Among a number
of interesting exhibits
here is a copy of a 4th-
century Greek tablet.

& Marco Polo House


Allegedly the great
explorer’s birthplace, this
house has been restored
and developed as a
museum devoted to his
life. The attached tower
offers fine views of the
rooftops of Korčula Town.
( Churches
Korčula Town may be Moreška
small, but it manages to
cram in a wealth of Korčula is the only
churches. Look out for Dalmatian island where
the All Saint’s Church real swords are still used
(left), St Michael’s and for dancing the Moreška
the Church of our Lady, (literally, “Moorish”).
which all stand within Dating from the 12th
the old town walls. century, the dance has
been performed in
Korčula since the 16th,
and is believed to be a
* Art Shops/Arneri
Palace re-enactment of the
Korčula Town overflows victory of Christianity
with small art shops that over Islam in Spain.
sell everything from Today’s simplified form
sees the White Knight
standard depictions of
the local skyline right ) Beaches
East of the town lie (Christianity) fight the
through to more esoteric a series of small beaches Black Knight (Islam),
works of modern art. that make pleasant spots for the affections of a
The art shop housed to swim on hot days. A Muslim maiden. The
within the Arneri Palace, short bus-ride (or in White Knight triumphs,
on the same square as season, boat-ride) away and the maiden
the cathedral, is a good are better beaches at converts to Christianity.
place to start. Lumbarda (above).

17
Trogir
Trogir, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is quite simply one of the
most stunning places in the Mediterranean. Sitting on its own island with
bridges linking it to the mainland on one side and to the island of Čiovo on
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

the other, the town forms a shimmering knot of orange roofs and traditional
stone buildings, amongst which lies one of Croatia’s most remarkable
cathedrals. The well-preserved old centre is perhaps the most unified in the
whole country, a pedestrianized oasis where the centuries peel back with
every step. Even the heavy crowds in summer fail to diminish Trogir’s appeal.
Top 10 Features
1 Cathedral of St Lawrence
2 Kamerlengo Fortress
3 Civic Museum
4 Loggia and Clock Tower
Land Gate 5 Ćipiko Palace
6 Marmont’s Gazebo
The palm-fringed
Riva is ideal for a
7 Church of St John the Baptist
relaxed coffee or 8 Convent of St Nicholas
meal at any time. 9 Riva
0 Land Gate
Cross the bridge to
the island of Čiovo for
great views across
to the old city.

t Map D5
t Tourist Information: Trg
Ivana Pavla II. 021 881 412
t www.tztrogir.hr
t Cathedral of St ! Cathedral
Lawrence
of St
Riva
Lawrence Bell Tower, Highlights include the 13th-
baptistry, treasury: Trg
Ivana Pavla II. 021 881
century west door, lavishly
adorned with biblical scenes £ Civic Museum
Trogir’s civic museum
426. Open Jun–Sep: carved by Trogir-born sculptor is housed in the Baroque
9am–8pm daily. Adm Radovan, and the sumptuous Garagnin Palace and
charge 15kn Renaissance styling of the presents details of the
t Kamerlengo Fortress. baptistry and St John’s town’s eclectic past. It
Open Apr–Oct: 8am– Chapel (above). The Collec- houses everything from
10pm. Adm charge 10kn tion of Sacral Works of Art the legacy left by the
t Civic Museum: ulica houses interesting 14th- to Greeks and Romans to
Gradska Vrata 4. 021 881 17th-century paintings. chilling documents from
406. Open 9am–1pm, 4– the Napoleonic era,
9pm daily. Adm charge
15kn (children 10kn); @ Kamerlengo
Fortress
listing the proclamation
of death sentences on
discount for groups This fortification (below) local officials who dared
t Church of St John the has guarded the western to defy French authority.
Baptist: Trg Ivana Pavla approaches to Trogir
II. Open May–Sep: 9am– since the 15th
7pm; Oct–Apr: by appt. century. Concerts
t Convent of St Nicholas: and film showings
Gradska 2. Open are held here in
May–Sep: 10am–noon, 4– summer, while the
6:30pm daily; Oct–Apr: ramparts offer views
by appt. Adm charge 5kn of the old town.

18 Note that opening hours have a tendency to change, so it’s best


to check in advance if your time is limited.
%/ $

$ Loggia and Clock Tower  75 2 Ŀ $ 


*,

-85 1 ,1$
5$
Traditionally a place $

-( 9
,.
(1

$
Î
where criminals were 08 ,& ( 9
$
  68%
, +  75*,9$1$
6.
tried and shamed, the +5
9 $7
6.$

* 8 3& $
3$9/$,,

$ 8 * 7 2 7 ,:

02
1 -
6,

. $
14th-century loggia

51$
8 67 $
+ 5 9 2 / -(

5 6.
35
(left) is notable for the

,1$
$7 6 È $

Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


$

$

.2
conspicuous gap on 29$
5 6.

*
98 .
% ( 5 , 6 / $9 ,È$
its eastern wall, left 2 % $/ $%
$1 $

when a Venetian stone


lion was blown up by
local activists in the Ćipiko Palace
1930s, in a show of defiance against %
This grand Gothic
Italian claims on Dalmatian territory. edifice (below) is one of
the most impressive of
the town’s old palaces. It
was once the base of the
powerful Ćipiko family,
who held great influence
in 15th-century Trogir.

^ Marmont’s
Gazebo
During the Napoleonic
era (1806–13) the top
French General in the
region, Marmont, liked
nothing better than to
recline here, taking in the
views and indulging in
the odd game of cards.
It is still a striking spot,
& Church of St John
the Baptist * Convent
Nicholas
of St despite the more recent
Čiovo shipyards.
This small Romanesque This modest convent is
church, all that remains worth visiting for its art Trogir Orientation
of a great Benedictine collection. The highlight,
monastery, is the only uncovered in Vehicles are banned
final resting-place the 1920s, is the from Trogir’s historic
of the Ćipiko 3rd-century Greek core. However, those
family. Here you relief of Kairos arriving by car can park
can see their (left). Note too the in the public car park
tomb, decorated chests used by located just outside the
with a 15th-century new arrivals for old town’s northern
relief depicting The bringing gifts into walls; simply cross over
Mourning of Christ. the convent. the bridge from the
mainland and turn right.
Parking spaces are at
( Riva Land Gate
The waterfront Riva is ) The most impressive a premium in summer,
where locals and tourists surviving gate, this forms so many people opt to
come to wander or enjoy part of the fortifications take the bus instead.
a meal or drink on balmy built by the Venetians. A The bus station is located
summer evenings. In statue of St John, Trogir’s not far from the afore-
season, boats line up patron saint, watches mentioned bridge, on the
here and visitors can warily over new arrivals Jadranska Magistrala.
book trips for the next day. from the mainland.

Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com 19


Krka National Park
Krka National Park is one of southern Europe’s scenic wonders, a green oasis
in an otherwise parched landscape. Spread over 109 sq km (42 sq miles) to
the north-east of Šibenik, it tracks the route of the Krka river, with its spectacular
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

waterfalls, gurgling pools and pounding rapids. Swimming is possible in places,


making the park the perfect place for a hot day, but it’s well worth a visit
whatever the weather. As well as the wildlife and picturesque historic buildings,
there are plenty of idyllic spots just to sit and gaze at the glorious surroundings.

Top 10 Features
1 Skradin
2 Lake Visovac
3 Mills and Exhibition
4 Skradinski Buk
General view of Krka 5 Visovac Monastery
National Park
6 Medu Gredama Gorge
Near the boat 7 Roški Slap
landing at Roški,
8 Krka Monastery
Slap, Kristijan, a
9 Nečven Fortress
small agritourism
venture, offers 0 Wildlife
homemade pršut
(see p49), cheese
and bread, not to
mention friendly
owners with a
penchant for dishing
out lethal strength Visovac Monastery
rakija (a fruit spirit).

Those who are


£ Mills and
Exhibitions
looking to cover the At Skradinski Buk and
park from Skradin
right through to the
! Skradin
Guarding the southern
Roški Slap (below),
several disued mills have
entrance to the park is this been turned into craft
Krka Monastery
charming little waterfront shops and galleries. Staff
should arrive early
town (above), which is fast in period costume are on
and be prepared for becoming a favourite with hand for photographs.
a very long day. the sailing fraternity – the
marina is open year-round.
t Map C3 The sprinkling of decent
t Park Office: Trg Ivana seafood restaurants here
Pavla II, 522001 Šibenik. makes it a good location for
022 201 777 a relaxing meal after a long
t www.npkrka.hr day’s exploration in the park.
t Open summer: 8am–
7pm; winter: 9am–5pm
@ Skradinski Buk
t Adm charge 30–95kn,
depending on season
Water thunders 47 m
(154 ft) over the 17 steps $ Lake Visovac
Just to the north of
that transport it down the Skradinski Buk, the river
hillside here into a large opens out into this wide,
rock pool that makes a reed-fringed expanse.
wonderful swimming In summer, fire-fighting
venue. Views from the planes may be seen here,
walkway ascending the swooping down for water
hillside are breathtaking. to extinguish forest fires.

20


LB
,S
% Visovac Monastery
This chocolate-box monastery, adapted by the
.LVWDQMH

Franciscans in the 15th century, reclines on an island in ,SLB


the middle of Lake Visovac and makes a popular boat /BUJPOBM
trip. Set in lush gardens, the monastery has a small 1BSL
5XSH
church, a modest museum, and a gem of a library. ġLULWRYFL

Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


'XEUDYLFH
Među Gredama Gorge
^ The Krka river narrows into a steep-sided 6NUDGLQ
gorge between Lake Visovac and Roški Slap.
Walls of sheer rock rise up like skyscrapers on 

$
both sides, to well over 100 m (328 ft) in places.

Krka National Park

& Roški Slap


The best way to
approach this swathe
of roaring water (above),
as it plummets down into
the gorge, is by boat.
The longest drop of this
waterfall is over 25 m
(82 ft), as the river Krka
forges a path through the
* Krka
Monastery
dense vegetation of the
surrounding forests.
This fine Orthodox
monastery on the Krka National
banks of the Krka,
dedicated to St
Park Orientation
Archangel Michael, The most dramatic way
lies at the northern to reach the park is by
end of the park – a boat from Skradin. From
two-hour boat the landing pier, the
excursion from the
upper end of Roški ( Nečven Fortress
A 14th-century Croat
entrance and Skradinski
Buk are just a short
Slap. Once there, stronghold, the Nečven walk to the south. Most
you are rewarded Fortress (above) may be little visitors stick to the well-
by a memorable more than a ruin, but it casts worn tourist path, but
collection of icons, a haunting presence over the you can also follow a
paintings, books Krka as the river makes its way trail of wooden walkways
and textiles. through the narrow gorge here. and bridges along the
cascade formations.

) Wildlife
Around a thousand
Head up the hill, beyond
the old mills and the
different plant species visitor parking, where
have been recorded in the information boards
park (left), as well as num- detail the park’s various
erous species of bird, 18 boat tours; here you can
species of bat and nine buy tickets, and will be
types of snake, including directed to the boats.
a venomous viper.

21
Diocletian’s Palace, Split
Split’s city centre is like no other in Europe. Built as a grand retirement home
for the Roman Emperor Diocletian, its character was later modified by
refugees from nearby Salona who fled there in 614, after their own city was
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

sacked. It may be crumbling and ramshackle in parts, but the area occupied
by the once mighty imperial palace – now a UNESCO World Heritage site –
has about 3,000 residents and is crammed with busy bars and boutique art
shops. Unlike much of the Dalmatian coast, the whole complex buzzes with
life all year round and dishes up a varied choice of things to see and do.
Top 10 Sights
1 Subterranean Chambers
2 Main Hall
3 Peristyle
4 Cathedral of St Domnius
The cathedral belltower,
looming over the port 5 Belltower
6 Baptistry
The spacious Luxor
Café in the sunken
7 Cupola
square is a good place 8 City Museum
to relax and refuel. 9 Golden Gate
0 Iron Gate
Delve beyond the
cupola to explore
the upper tier of the
palace. There are few
! Subterranean
Chambers
The palace’s underground
major sights, but it is
vaults mirror the layout of
a lot quieter here and the floor above. Now open
there are good views as a museum, they give
of the Adriatic as a good impression of the
well as a couple of palace’s former appearance.
lively bars at night.

t Map P3
@ Main Hall
The main subterranean
t Tourist information: hall of the palace houses an Main Hall, Diocletian’s Palace
Peristyle. 021 345 606 alley of souvenir shops. Here
t Subterranean Chamb-
ers. Open 9am–7pm
you can buy anything from
postcards to paintings and $ Cathedral
Domnius
of St
daily. Adm charge 25kn statues of Roman figures. Built over Diocletian’s
t Cathedral of St tomb, the main structure
Domnius: Peristyle. 021 here is Roman. Inside is a
342 589. Open 8am–8pm 13th-century pulpit (below)
Mon–Sat, noon–8pm and work by 15th-century
Sun. Adm charge 15kn sculptor Juraj Dalmatinac.
t Belltower: Peristyle.
Open 8am–8pm Mon–
Sat, noon–8pm Sun. Adm
charge 10kn
t City Museum:
Papalićeva 1. 021 344
917. Open Jun–Sep: £ Peristyle
Once an antechamber
9am–9pm daily; Oct– to Diocletian’s quarters, the
May: 9am–4pm Tue–Fri,
dramatic, colonnaded square
10am–1pm Sat, Sun.
known as the Peristyle
Adm charge 10kn
(above) is the heart of the
(children 5kn)
palace complex.

22 “Peristyle” is the name given to a colonnade surrounding a


courtyard – also to the courtyard itself.
9

0
3 5

Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


6
4
% Belltower
The belltower, which soars high above 7
the cathedral, was not completed until the
early 20th century. The panoramic views of
the city that it offers (above) make the long
climb up to the top well worth the effort. 1 2 Bronze Gate
Baptistry
^ An alley opposite the
cathedral leads to the
Bapistry, once the Roman
Temple of Jupiter. Inside,
a striking feature is the
sculpture of John the
Baptist (below) by Ivan
Meštrović (1883–1962).

Diocletian’s
Palace Orientation
& Cupola
Stone steps from the * City Museum
East of the sunken
From the waterfront
Riva, Diocletian’s Palace
sunken square lead to a square, the City Museum can be entered through
domed area, where is housed in the 15th- the Bronze Gate. Head
guests once waited century Papalić north through the main
for an audience with Palace. Among the hall and go up the steps
the Emperor. At artifacts relating to at the far end into the
night, stars are Split’s history is a Peristyle, with its elegant
visible through a collection of colonnades and imposing
gap in the top of weaponry and cathedral. Just north of
the dome. armour (left). the cathedral is the city’s
most centrally located
( Golden Gate
This sturdy )Iron Gate
Split’s most
tourist office – a great
place to pick up visitor
portal once led striking gate has information and maps.
north to the nearby its own church (Our From the Peristyle, the
settlement of Salona. Lady of the Belfry) and main sights are easy to
Today, it is being clock tower. A café on find – just a couple of
restored to its full Narodni Trg will make an minutes’ walk to north,
splendour, thanks to ideal spot from which to east, west or south.
funding by a local bank. admire this elegant portal.

Leave the palace by the Golden Gate to see Ivan Meštrović‘s 23


imposing statue of Grgur of Nin (see p41).
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

Left Riva Right View from Marjan Hill

Other Sights in Split


!RivaSplit’s palm-fringed, % Marmontova
This elegant and modern
pedestrianized waterfront is street on the western edge of
where its citizens come to Diocletian’s Palace is awash
meet up and be seen. The many with designer shops. In the
pavement cafés make this the late afternoon, it attracts
perfect spot to relax and gaze throngs of smartly attired,
seawards at the ferries, as they window-shopping locals.
slip off to the nearby islands. d Map N2
d Map N2

@ Meštrović Gallery ^ Fish Market


This wonderfully
The Croatian-born, pungent and colourful
Expressionist sculptor Ivan market bursts into life every
Meštrović (1883–1962) may morning of the week. Here
not have realized his dream you can feast your eyes on
of retiring to this bolthole the rich spread of Adriatic
in Split, but it now provides seafood, accompanied by a
a fitting home for a fine cacophony of gesticulating
collection of his work sellers and hollering locals.
(see p40). Distant Agreements, d Map N2
Meštrović Gallery

£ From the west side of


Marjan Hill
& Narodni Trg
When the Venetians
the town, steps lead up rumbled into Split, they moved
to this stretch of greenery, part the focus of the city away from
of a protected nature reserve. Diocletian’s Palace, westwards
The views from the and into this square. Highlights
top are spectacular, with the here are the 15th-century town
mountains stretching off towards hall and its grandiose ground-
Bosnia in the distance and large floor loggia. d Map P2
swathes of the Dalmatian coast
and its many islands visible on a
clear day. d Map N5

$ Archeological Museum
The collections housed here
feature a wide variety of artifacts
that date from the Roman, early
Christian and medieval periods in
Split, as well as a smaller legacy
from the time of Greek rule in
Dalmatia (see p40). Fish Market

24 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com


* Trg Republike (Prokurative)
In contrast to the Roman
a large waterfront entertainment
centre and a buzzing nightlife
parts of town, this square’s (see p86). d Map Q6
grand architecture hints at
Venice. d Map N2
) Coastal Walk

Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


The coastline stretching

( Bačvice
A short walk southeast from
out from Bačvice is lined with
beaches, cafés and nightclubs.
the centre of Split leads to this Wimbledon champion Goran
small bay, with one of the city’s Ivanišević launched his career at
most popular summer beaches, a tennis club near here. d Map Q6

Top 10 Events in
Diocletian’s Life
Emperor Diocletian
1 AD 245: Born into a The life of Diocletian is a true
lowly Dalmatian “rags to riches” story. He grew
family in Salona up in a family of modest
2 282: Finds favour with means in the Dalmatian town
Emperor Carus, and is of Salona, before embarking on
made a Roman Count a meteoric rise through the
3 283: Carus elevates military ranks of the Roman
his status to that Empire to assume the top
of consul position. He demonstrated a
4 284: Reaches his marked taste for grand construction projects; his
zenith, at the age of greatest legacy to Croatia is the lavish retirement
just 39, by becoming palace he built by the Adriatic, later to evolve into the
Roman Emperor city of Split. Retirement was an unconventional move
5 295: Commissions his for a Roman emperor – one way or another, all of
seaside retirement his predecessors had died in the job. From his grand
palace in Split, which seaside residence, Diocletian looked on as the
takes around a decade Empire began to crumble, and it was here that
to complete he eventually took his own life. Given Diocletian’s
6 303: Outlaws notoriety as a persecutor of Christians, it is ironic that
Christianity, ordering Split’s cathedral was later built on the site of his tomb.
the destruction of all
churches and the
persecution of Christians
7 305: Becomes the first
Roman emperor to
retire rather than die or
be murdered in the job
8 308: Declines request
to be reinstated as
emperor
9 315: Diocletian’s wife
(Prisca) and daughter
(Valeria) are murdered
by Emperor Licinius
0 c.316: Poisons himself Diocletian condemning St Cosmas and St Damian (predella
in his palace at Split from the Annalena Altarpiece by Fra Angelico, 1434)

25
Kornati National Park
Perhaps the writer George Bernard Shaw summed it up best when he gushed
“On the last day of the Creation, God desired to crown his work, and thus
created the Kornati Islands …” There is nothing in Europe quite like this
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

necklace of 89 starkly beautiful islands, gleaming white against the deep


blue of the Adriatic. Designated a national park in 1980, they are sparsely
populated, as few people have been successful in eking out any kind of living
on these rocky strips of land. Today, the Kornati Islands are popular with day-
trippers, sailors and stressed-out city dwellers looking to get away from it all.
Top 10 Features
1 Murter
2 Sailing
3 Island Getaways
4 Kornat
Typical island of white
rock, bare of vegetation 5 Seafood Restaurants
6 Katina
The grocery store
near ACI Piškera
7 Piškera
marina on the 8 Lavsa
Panitula Vela islet is 9 Mana
one of the few places 0 Wildlife
where you can buy
food and drinks out
of season.

The islands’ sheltered


waters are perfect for
novice sailors.

t Map B4
t Kornati National Park
Office: Butina 2, 22243
Murter. 022 435 740. ! Murter
Murter harbour (above) The steep cliffs of Mana
www.kornati.hr. Adm is the main starting point
charge 250–750/150–
450kn (depending on
on the mainland for trips
into the National Park. £ Island Getaways
Visitors can live like
boat, whether purchased Many ex-islanders (the Robinson Crusoe by hiring
inside/outside park) Kornatari), whose families a stone cottage on an
t In season, tickets can bought land on the islands island. Without any electri-
be bought at marinas in for grazing their livestock city or running water, their
Betina (Murter), Biograd during the 19th century, only human contact will
Na Moru, Sukošan, Sali, have now settled in Murter. be the supply boat that
Žut and Rogoznica. The drops by every few days.
National Park Office in
Murter sells tickets year @ Sailing
A variety of companies,
round both Croatian and foreign,
t Murter-based travel run day trips from Murter,
agencies arranging Zadar, Šibenik and even
island accommodation Trogir to the Kornatis (right).
include Coronata (www. They can also organize a
coronata.hr), Kornat Turist week’s sailing, either
(www.kornatturist.hr) bareback (without a
and Žut Tours (www. skipper) or as a charter
zuttours.hr) (with a skipper, who will
also do the cooking).

26
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Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


/BUJPOBM
Kornat 1BSL
$ The largest island in the National Park, Kornat
(above), is just 25 km (16 miles) long and 2.5 km
(2 miles) wide. Sprinkled among its old stone
houses are a few decent restaurants, a 6th-century
Byzantine lookout tower and a small church. ^ Katina
At the northern tip
of this island, the Mala
% Seafood
Restaurants
Proversa waterway
separates the Kornatis
In summer, a number from Dugi Otok. In the
of enterprising locals middle of this channel
turn their old stone lie the remains of an
houses, many of which ancient villa, dating
have small jetties, into back to a time when
restaurants. They offer the islands were a
first-rate, fresh, simply fashionable holiday
presented seafood to resort for wealthy
passing sailors. Romans.

& Piškera
Another
island with a
discernible
Roman legacy
is Piškera.
There was
once a
substantial
village here,
though all that
remains these days is Kornati Islands
the ruined shell of this
settlement and an old
Orientation

* Lavsa
Its good choice of
church. The marina on
Piškera (right) is the most
The Kornati Islands
National Park is located
sheltered, sandy coves developed in the islands. approximately seven
make Lavsa a popular nautical miles west of
destination with the
yachting fraternity. There ) Wildlife
Attempts at exploiting
Murter and around 15
nautical miles from
they can stop off and the limited natural Zadar and Šibenik. In
idle away an afternoon, resources of the islands the summer, boats
swimming and basking may appear to have authorized to take
in the sunshine. stripped them of all tourists into the park line
wildlife. Yet they are home the waterfronts of these

( Mana
Mana is best known
to over 300 plant varieties
and a similar number of
three towns. If you are
thinking of booking
for three things: its flora, animal species, including a day trip, ask to see a
its ruined village – not in wild sheep (below). map first to ensure that
fact a real settlement but the tour really does
a set built for the 1950s include the park. The
film The Cruel Sea – and best way, however, to
its steep, overhanging explore the park’s many
cliffs, a spectacular sight islands thoroughly is on
when the Adriatic swell a private yacht.
crashes against them.

For more about sailing in Dalmatia See pp46–7 27


Cathedral of St James, Šibenik
For over a century, the citizens of Šibenik struggled to finance the building of
one of the Mediterranean’s largest and finest cathedrals. Now, this remarkably
harmonious blend of Gothic and Renaissance styling dominates the city.
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

When the main architect, Juraj Dalmatinac, died in 1475, his pupil Nikola
Firentinac took over, completing the presbytery, choir, galleries, vaulted roof
and dome. It has taken international experts several years to restore the
building since its damage by Serbian shelling in 1991, during Croatia’s war
of independence. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001.
Top 10 Features
1 Array of Heads
2 Façade
3 Door of Lions
4 Gothic Portal
A face carved on the
cornice of the apse 5 Dome
6 Vaulted Roof
The Gradska Vječnica
café, opposite the
7 Interior
cathedral, makes a 8 Transept
good spot to sit and 9 Presbytery
admire the splendours 0 Baptistry
of this great building,
over coffee or perhaps
a leisurely lunch.
! Array of Heads
These 72 stone heads
adorn the exterior of the
apse. They are reputed to
To appreciate the
represent, depending on
visual impact of the whom you believe, either
cathedral better, the cathedral’s generous
climb up to the benefactors or locals who
nearby fortress of were too mean to dispense
St Ana, from where any of their wealth on the Inside Šibenik Cathedral
you will be able to building’s construction.
take in fully its
massive scale as well
£ Door of Lions
Two stone lions guard
as the grandeur of its Juraj Dalmatinac’s finely
exterior. crafted portico, supporting
statues of Adam and Eve
(below). The doorway
t Map C4
itself is framed by ornately
t Trg Republike
carved spiral columns.
Hrvatske 1
t Open May–Sep:
8:30am–8pm daily;
Oct–Apr: 8:30am–noon,
4–8pm daily
@ Façade
Taking 105 years to
complete (1431–1536), the
cathedral’s symmetrical
façade (above) is crafted
from local limestone and
Brač marble. Its impressive
dimensions are 38 m (125 ft)
by 14 m (46 ft). Look out for
the angel standing protect-
ively above the north portal.

28 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com


$ Gothic Portal
The sculptures of % Dome
Nikola Firentinac’s
various saints sweep cupola (right), built
around the arch of the around an octagonal
main west door, although drum, is guarded by
many of these figures statues of St Michael,

Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


have lost a limb or been St Martin and St James.
decapitated down the Parts of today’s
years. Constructed during structure are
the first phase of building reconstructions, the
(1433–41), this elegant original sustaining
portal is one of the oldest damage from Serb
parts of the cathedral. shells in the 1990s.

^ Vaulted Roof
Like the rest of the
building, the roof was
constructed using
blocks of carefully
measured stone, the
individual pieces slotting
together perfectly. It is
widely regarded as a
tribute to the great
technical skill of the
stonecutters involved.

& Interior
This triple-aisled space
is divided up by columns,
topped by pointed arches.
Notable features include
the four massive pillars
supporting the cupola, the
tombs of Šibenik’s bishops
and the altars of the Three
Kings and the Holy Cross.

* Transept
You may feel less
Šibenik Cathedral
than comfortable about Orientation
walking under the Šibenik’s cathedral is at
transept after you learn the heart of the old
that it was laced together town, which tumbles
without using mortar. downhill from the main
( Presbytery
Both architects –
Again, this is a testimony
to the talent and prowess
street, Kralja Zvonimira,
to the north, toward the
Dalmatinac and Firentinac of the local stonemasons. Adriatic, to the south. It
– contributed to the is an easy walk west
presbytery’s finely carved along the waterfront
stone stalls (above). Over from the bus station or
them are further highly a short taxi ride from
detailed, sculpted reliefs. the train station. There
is limited car parking on
) Baptistry
The small bapistry, at
Obala Franje Tuđmana,
the waterfront street just
the end of the right aisle, south of the city walls;
houses a fine baptismal from Kralja Zvonimira
font supported by three turn onto Vladimira
putti (right). A quartet of Nazora, then take the
stone scallop shells leads third street on the right.
up to the carved roof.

For more Dalmatian places of worship See pp38–9 29


Zadar Old Town
Despite being pummelled by Allied bombs during World War II and by Serb
shells from 1991 to 1995, Zadar’s old town boasts a wealth of attractions,
all set within a pedestrianized peninsula that overlooks the warm, azure
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

waters of the Adriatic. In this lively city of just over 100,000 inhabitants is a
Catholic cathedral and an Orthodox church, and the remains of a Roman
forum, all squeezed into a compact historic centre that is awash with cafés,
bars and good restaurants. Zadar has yet to be “discovered” by mass tourism,
but in summer its streets buzz with visitors from other parts of Croatia.
Top 10 Features
1 Land Gate
2 Church of St Simeon
3 Five Wells Square
Amphorae in the
4 Narodni Trg
Archeological Museum 5 Sea Organ
6 Roman Forum
Stop off at the Forum
Café and sip a cold 7 Archeological Museum
pivo (beer) or bijela 8 Church of St Donat
kava (milky coffee) at 9 Cathedral of St Anastasia
one of the outside 0 Church of St Elijah
tables that overlook
the Roman Forum.

Stroll along the


Obala Kralja Petra
Krešimira IV in the
evening to enjoy the
full glory of Zadar’s
magnificent sunsets.

t Map B3
! Land Gate
This voluminous gate –
Church of St Elijah, altar

t Church of St Simeon:
Trg Petra Zoranića 7. 023
thought to have been
completed in the 16th £ Five Wells Square
Late into the 19th
211 705. Open Jun–Sep: century by Italian architect century, this complex of
8am–noon, 6–8pm daily; Michele Sanmicheli – guards wells was where the
Oct–May: open for mass the southern entrance to citizens of Zadar drew
t Cathedral of St the old town. A Venetian their fresh water. Each of
Anastasia: Trg Svete lion (above) stares down the five wells is identical
Stošÿe. 023 251 708. from this portal, revealing in design. Also on the
Open 8am–1pm, 5– Zadar’s links with Venice. square is the Captain’s
6:30pm daily Tower, which has been
t Archeological Museum:
Trg Opatice Čike 1. 023
@ Church of
St Simeon
renovated and now hosts
modern art exhibitions.
250 542. Open Apr–Sep: The church that stands
9am–1pm, 5–9pm here today is a 17th-
Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat century reconstruction.
& Sun; Oct–Mar: 9am– It is home to a
1pm Mon–Sat. Adm 14th-century silver
charge 10kn sarcophagus (right)
t Church of St Donat. that holds the remains
Open winter: by appt; of St Simeon. The
summer: 9am–8pm daily. sarcophagus is open
Adm charge 10kn on his saint’s day,
8 October.

30 For more on Zadar’s churches See p39


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Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


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This busy square (above), once the

0 ,9
,5 $
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Ģ3 8 6,
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$9

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of pavement cafés and a Venetian-style

/ ,1
Zadar

29
town hall with a loggia and a 16th-century

,Ĕ $
guard house. During the summer, there Old Town
is often an arts and crafts market here.
% Sea Organ
This award-winning
project consists of 35
pipes of different length
and diameter built into the
staircase descending to
the sea. The waves hitting
the shore produce random
but harmonic sounds,
making the Sea Organ a
giant musical instrument.

^ Roman Forum
Little of this ancient
forum remains, as many
of its stones were used
as building blocks for the
rest of the old town. A
pillar, where criminals
were once flogged, still
stands, along with a
scattering of odd pieces
of carved stonework.

The Siege of Zadar


& Archeological
Museum ( Cathedral of
St Anastasia As war engulfed the
Sited on the Roman Just north of St Donat’s fledgling Croatian
Forum, the collections is this Romanesque Republic in August 1991,
here feature various finds cathedral, founded in the Yugoslav Army forces
from the city and 9th century. The present and Serb irregulars
surrounding area, which structure dates from the descended on Zadar,
document a swathe of 12th–13th centuries. which lay perilously close
Zadar’s heritage from the The belltower was to the disputed Krajina
Stone Age right through completed as late region, where Serbs had
to the 11th century. as 1893. declared autonomy.
They quickly captured
the outskirts and the
*StChurch
Donat
of
) Church of
St Elijah city’s airport, but hastily
Also on the Orthodox since marshalled Croat forces
Roman Forum, the 18th century, managed to avert the
this 9th-century this modest fall of the city. A brutal
church (right) is church stands in siege ensued, and it took
Croatia’s largest the small Serb the UN three months to
pre-Romanesque building. enclave of the old town; broker a ceasefire. Even
The unusual circular design itself worth a wander so, the shelling of Zadar
gives it great acoustics around. The collection of continued until hostilities
for the summer concerts 16th–19th-century icons finally ceased in 1995.
that are held here. held here is impressive.

31
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

Left The siege of Dubrovnik, 1991 Right Crusaders conquering Zadar, 1202

Moments in Croatian History


! 4th Century BC: Greeks
and Illyrians in Dalmatia
quashed by the superior power
of the Huns and the mighty
Greek settlers began to cross Venetian doges. The latter soon
the seas and join the Illyrian started to wield greater influence
tribes who had already been over Dalmatia.
eking out a living on the
Dalmatian coastline. As the
population along the coastal strip % 1202: City of Zadar
Sacked by the Crusaders
expanded, trade links and proto- The Dalmatian city of Zadar was
settlements started to flourish. attacked and looted by Christian
Crusaders as the Balkans

@ 1st Century AD: Romans


Move into Dalmatia
became a battleground for
Christian Europe to the west
The Roman Empire surged and the increasingly powerful
eastwards, engulfing whole Ottoman Empire to the east.
swathes of Croatia and snuffing The Turkish threat was to grow
out most of the indigenous over the following centuries.
opposition in the process.
Wine production flourished
as the conquerors brought ^ 1593: Battle of Sisak
In the 16th century, the
their expertise to a land Austrian Habsburgs had further
whose soil and climate developed the Vojna Krajina, a
made it perfect for “military frontier” intended to
producing both red and prevent further Turkish
white wines. advances into Europe. The
decisive victory came at the

£ 6th Century AD:


Arrival of Slavic Tribes
landmark Battle of Sisak, just
south of Zagreb, where the
Slavic tribes from the north Ottomans were finally halted.
began to arrive on the Habsburg influence on
Dalmatian coast. Croatia continued right up
until World War I.

$ Croatian
AD925: Alleged First
King
& 1699: Dalmatia Under
Crowned Venetian Control
Croatia became a nation Large swathes of Dalmatia
under King Tomislav, the fell under the control of
“Father of the Croats”, Venice, although the Republic
whose achievement it was of Ragusa (Dubrovnik, see
to unite the country for pp8–9) retained its
the first time. Croatia’s independence from
independence, both Venice and
however, was soon King Tomislav Constantinople.

34 Preceding pages View of Dubrovnik’s Old City from the south


* 1808: Napoleon Annexes
Republic of Ragusa
Top 10 Historical
Figures
In 1806, French troops saved
Dubrovnik from a month-long
siege by Russian and Montenegrin
! Emperor Diocletian
Diocletian (245–316) chose

Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


to build his retirement palace
forces. Two years later, Napoleon on the Adriatic coast, founding
claimed Ragusa for France. Split in the process (see p25).

@ King Tomislav
Many Croats still consider
Croatia’s alleged first king a
hero.

£ Grgur of Nin
This 10th-century bishop
campaigned for the use of
the Croatian language (rather
than Latin) in church services.

$ Napoleon Bonaparte
Napoleon (1769–1821)
promoted Slavic languages in
schools in the Illyrian
Provinces.

Napoleon Bonaparte % Ban Josip Jelačić


Croatian army officer and
nationalist Jelačić (1801–59)
stood up to the mighty
1945: Tito Comes to Power
( The Croatian-born marshal
Austro-Hungarian Empire.

came to power in the aftermath


of World War II, and set about
^ Juraj Strossmayer
Bishop Strossmayer (1815–
establishing a socialist republic 1905) called for a pan-Slavic
state, helping to clear the way
where ethnic differences between for the formation of Yugoslavia.
Serbs, Croats, Macedonians,
Slovenes, Montenegrins and
Bosnians were suppressed in
& Ante Pavelić
Leader of the fascist Ustaše
favour of allegiance to the movement, Pavelić (1889–1959)
became head of the short-lived
“mother country”. Until his death Independent State of Croatia
in 1980, Tito skilfully played the during World War II.
West off against the Soviet Bloc,
and built one of the biggest
armed forces in Europe.
* Marshal Tito
Tito (1892–1980) fought
the Axis forces before leading
Yugoslavia after World War II.

) 1991: Croatia Declares its


Independence
( Franjo Tuđman
A landslide referendum saw Tuđman (1922–99) became
Croatia declare independence first president of the newly
independent Croatia in 1991.
from Yugoslavia. Irregular Serbian
units, backed up by the Yugoslav
military, attacked the fledgling ) Stjepan Mesić
A former Tuđman ally, the
republic and besieged Dubrovnik. Croatian president from 2000
Hostilities had ceased by the end to 2010 reinvented himself as
the respectable face of
of 1995, and all captured Croatian modern Croatian politics.
territory was returned by 1998.

Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com 35


Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

Left Dubrovnik Middle Church of Our Lady of Spilica, Kut Right St Mark’s Tower, Trogir

Old Towns
! Dubrovnik
Lord Byron’s “Pearl of the
Adriatic” is Croatia’s most famous
set-piece. Encapsulated within
the hulking medieval walls is a
perfectly preserved Baroque city-
state, sandwiched between a
sweep of limestone mountains
to the north and the Adriatic to Split – old and new towns
the south. Now rediscovered by
tourists, the Old City can often
get crowded in summer, but $ Split
No staid museum piece,
there’s no disguising its allure Split’s old town is a living and
(see pp8–15, 58–66). breathing slice of history, formed
around the confines of the

@ Korčula Town
This mini-Dubrovnik matches
Emperor Diocletian’s palatial
waterfront retirement home,
its more illustrious sibling in and adapted over the centuries
everything but scale. Enjoying its by the Spličani (see pp22–3, 25).
own rocky promontory, this old
town, carved over the centuries
by the Venetians, still feels like % Zadar
Neither World War II nor
an oasis not yet well acquainted the bombing of the early 1990s
with the 20th century, let alone could dent the spirit of this lively,
the 21st. Within its walls lie bustling town. It may lack the
churches, seafood restaurants, architectural cohesion of Trogir,
and the site where, locals believe, Korčula and Dubrovnik, but its
their most famous son, Marco stunning setting – reclining on
Polo, was born (see pp16–17, 92). its own peninsula in a flurry of
churches, Roman ruins and

£ Trogir
Set picturesquely on an islet
pavement cafés – more than
makes up for it (see pp30–31).
between the mainland and the
island of Čiovo, this grand
creation can make a credible ^
Hvar Town
It is easy to see why
claim for the title of finest Hvar Town is the summer
old town on the getaway of choice for
Adriatic coast. Trogir’s Croatia’s cognoscenti.
unity of design makes The charming old core,
it special, which is crammed with
why the locals call it Venetian architecture,
the “town museum” Church of Chrysogonus, sweeps around a wide
(see pp18–19). Zadar Adriatic bay. High up

36
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast
Šibenik

above, a rambling fort watches


over the summer scene of ( Pag Town
Pag’s compact old town is
pavement cafés, fish restaurants largely the work of Dalmatian
and bobbing tour boats. The main architect Juraj Dalmatinac, who
square is dominated by the expertly crafted a web of streets
imposing contours of St Stephen’s designed to afford inhabitants
Cathedral (see pp39, 84). protection against the biting bora
winds from the north. On one

& Kut (Vis Town)


Relatively few visitors have
flank the Adriatic laps, while on
the other three the starched
discovered the historic Kut district white rocks of Pag island stretch
of Vis Town, with its outstanding away towards the hulking
Renaissance triple-naved church, shadow of the distant Velebit
Our Lady of Spilica, its swathe of Mountains (see p77).
old Venetian merchant dwellings,
and its trio of first-rate restaurants.
In the ramble of narrow lanes near ) Lastovo Town
Unusually, Lastovo Town
the waterfront, old women hang turns its back on the Adriatic and
out their washing from balconies tumbles in the opposite direction.
built by wealthy Venetians, while Architecturally less ornate than
the local cats look on (see p84). many other Dalmatian towns, its
most striking buildings are a group

* Šibenik
The most “Croatian” city on
of 20 or so Renaissance stone
houses, characterized by their
the coast (in that it wasn’t built high, broad terraces (see p95).
by the Romans or the
Venetians), Šibenik *RVSLÉ
3DJ
boasts a charming old *UDÏDF 'UYDU %261,$
town that rambles up 3RVHGDUMH +(5&(*29,1$
=DGDU
in search of the city’s %HQNRYDF
.QLQ
fort through a tangle /LYQR
0XUWHU 6NUDGLQ
of narrow streets that .RQMLF
6LQM
have not yet been air- ĢLEHQLN
brushed for the needs 7URJLU 2PLģ
6SOLW 0RVWDU
of mass tourism. The %UDÏ 0DNDUVND

Cathedral of St James, +YDU +YDU


3ORÏH 0HWNRYLÉb
over a hundred years $GULDWLF
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in the making, is its 6HD 3HOMHģDF 0DOL6WRQ
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glorious centrepiece /DVWRYR
'XEURYQLN
(see pp28–9, 73).  NJMFT  LN 

37
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

Left Cathedral of St Stephen, Hvar Middle Cathedral of St James, Šibenik Right St Donat’s, Zadar

Cathedrals and Churches


! Cathedral
Šibenik
of St James, lacks in size, it more than makes
up for with its perfect proportions
Dominating Šibenik, this and unusual cylindrical design.
UNESCO-World-Heritage-listed d Map B3
edifice is a blaze of Gothic and
Renaissance styles. Its construc-
tion took more than a century $ Church of St Nicholas, Nin
A short drive south of Nin
and nearly bankrupted the town’s brings you to one of the most
citizens. The main architect, charming ecclesiastical structures
Dalmatian Juraj Dalmatinac, in Europe – a small, 11th-century
didn’t live to see the finished church built on a former burial
creation; the work was mound. Today it makes an
completed by one of his own intensely atmospheric sight,
pupils, the very capable Nikola standing firm on a windswept
Firentinac (see pp28–9). plain with the Adriatic to one
side and the stark, haunting

@ Cathedral
Trogir
of St Lawrence expanse of the Velebit mountains
rising up on the other. d Map B3
The 13th-century west portal by
local master Radovan is the
pièce de resistance of this % Church of St Blaise,
Dubrovnik
remarkable cathedral. Look out Dubrovnik’s highly revered patron
for the figures of Adam and Eve saint, St Blaise, is said to have
on either side, standing proudly saved the city from sacking at
over a pair of Venetian lions the hands of the Venetians. He
(indicating the influence Venice
once had over Trogir). Arranged
around the upper sections of the
portal are depictions of the
saints, and calendar scenes of
local life (see pp18–19).

£ Church
Nin
of the Holy Cross,

Spiritually and symbolically one


of the most important churches
in Croatia, the Church of the
Holy Cross is also one of the
oldest – it dates back to the 9th
century, when the early Croatian
kings were on the throne and
Nin was the focal point of the
country’s religious life. What it Church of St Blaise, Dubrovnik

38 In Dalmatia, admission to church buildings is generally free,


unless there is a special exhibition or event on.
pops up throughout the city, but
nowhere is he more pleasingly
represented than in this 18th-
century church dedicated to him
(see pp11, 59).

Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


^ Dubrovnik Cathedral
Legend has it that Dubrovnik
Cathedral was founded by
Richard the Lionheart in gratitude
for his life being spared during a
violent storm that washed him
up on the island of Lokrum. True Cathedral of St Anastasia, Zadar
or not, this is one of the
country’s most striking religious Byzantine structure, which in
buildings. Among its treasures turn had stood on the site of the
are impressive Baroque frescoes, Forum of the ancient Roman
the Byzantine skull case of St town of Jadar. Somewhat
Blaise, and a fine Ascension by overshadowed by its rather more
Titian (see p59). celebrated neighbour St Donat’s,
this survivor of Allied air raids

& Cathedral of St Stephen,


Hvar Town, Hvar
and Serb shelling should not be
overlooked. There is a plaque
Be sure to pop in here if you are commemorating the visit of Pope
lucky enough to catch the door Alexander in 1177 (see p31).
ajar – the opening hours are
erratic and limited. The 16th-
century Renaissance building ) Church of St Donat, Zadar
Last used as a church in
stands on the site of an old 1797, this fine example of pre-
Benedictine monastery. One Romanesque architecture has
highlight is the understated become the emblem of Zadar.
13th-century Madonna and Child Like the cathedral nearby, it
on the altar. d Map D6 stands on the site of the old
Roman forum. Latin inscriptions

* Church of St Michael,
Komiža, Vis
can be seen in both the interior
and exterior stonework, as
The Church of St Michael stones from the forum were
sits amidst vines on a used as building blocks (see p31).
steep bluff overlooking
3DJ
the sleepy fishing *UDÏDF 'UYDU %261,$
1LQ +(5&(*29,1$
town of Komiža. Ask 3RVHGDUMH
locally for opening %HQNRYDF
.QLQ
=DGDU
times. d Map D6 0XUWHU /LYQR
6NUDGLQ
ĢLEHQLN 6LQM .RQMLF
ç

( Cathedral of St
Anastasia, Zadar 7URJLU
6SOLW
2PLģ 0RVWDU
Zadar’s magnificent %UDÏ 0DNDUVND

Romanesque cathedral, +YDU +YDU


9LV 3ORÏH 0HWNRYLÉb
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/DVWRYR 0OMHW 'XEURYQLN
on the site of an
earlier (9th-century)  NJMFT  LN 

Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com 39


Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

Left Maritime Museum, Dubrovnik Right Archaeological Museum, Split

Museums and Galleries


£ Archeological
Museum, Split
Exhibits at this museum include
Ancient Greek ceramics, weaponry
from the 6th to 9th centuries, over
70,000 coins, and amphorae
recovered from shipwrecks. d
;SJOKTLP'SBOLPQBOTLBt.BQ1t 021
 t0QFO+VOo4FQBNoQN o
QN.POo4BU0DUo.BZBNoQN oQN
.POo'SJ BNoQN4BU t"ENDIBSHF

$ Maritime
Dubrovnik
Museum,

Distant Agreements, Meštrović Gallery, Split The most interesting part of the
collection illustrates Dubrovnik’s

! Meštrović Gallery, Split


More than 80 of Ivan
naval might between the 12th and
14th centuries, when it threatened
Meštrović’s sculptures, including Venice’s supremacy TFFQ
.
a huge Pietà and outdoor bronze
works, can today be viewed at
his former home. The dining room % Tusculum, Solin
This museum, based at the
has been left largely as it was and Roman ruins of Salona TFFQ
,
contains the sculptor’s furniture disseminates information about
and family portraits. d Šetalište the site and organizes guided
Ivana MeštrovićBt.BQ/t 021 340 tours by prior arrangement. d 1VU
800 t0QFO.BZo4FQBNoQN5VFo4VO 4UBSJOBCC .BOBTUJSJOFt.BQ%t 021
0DUo"QSBNoQN5VFo4BU BNoQN t0QFO.BZo0DUBNoQN
4VO t"ENDIBSHF .POo'SJ BNoQN4BU
/PWo"QSBNoQN

@ Museum
of Croatian
.POo'SJ BNoQN4BU
t"ENDIBSHF
Archeological
Monuments, Split
One of Croatia’s oldest ^ Museum of
the Island
museums has a fine Carving, Museum of Croatian
of Brač, Škrip
collection of jewellery, Archaeological Monuments Treasures from all over
weapons, stonework Brač are housed in the
and epigraphics (inscriptions Radojković Tower, which shows
carved on stone). d 4UKFQBOB traces of Illyrian, Roman and early
(VOKBče bb t.BQ/t Croatian architecture. d .BQ&
t XXXNIBTTQMJUISt0QFOBNoQN t 021 630 033 t0QFOBNoQNEBJMZ BTL
.POo'SJ BNoQN4BUt"ENDIBSHF GPSLFZBUIPVTFOFYUEPPS
t"ENDIBSHF

40 Note that opening times are liable to change; it’s advisable to


check in advance of your visit.
& Hermitage of Blaca, Brač
This 16th-century monastery
Top 10 Public Statues
and its contents, including ! Grgur Ninski, Nin
Ivan Meštrović‘s larger-
correspondence between the last than-life bronze monument
priest and the Royal Astronomical to 10th-century cleric Bishop

Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


Society in London, have been Gregory of Nin.
frozen in time since 1963.
Roaming goats and a stunning @ Grgur Ninski, Split
Another colossal image
location enhance its appeal. of Gregory of Nin, who
Access on foot only. d .BQ& campaigned for Mass to be
conducted in Croatian.

£ Marko Marulić, Split


Meštrović’s homage to the
15th-century Split-born writer
often dubbed “the father of
Croatian Literature”.

$ Street Art, Split


Look out for the giant
Amphorae, Archaeological Museum, Vis Town teacup on Marmontova and the
new silver bridge on the Riva.

* Archeological Museum,
Vis Town % Orlando’s
Dubrovnik
Column,
Sculptures, ceramics, weapons
Standard-bearer for the Divine
and everyday items illuminate Republic, Orlando flies the
life in the Ancient Greek town of Libertas flag of the Dubrovnik
Issa (modern Vis Town). d 7JÝLJCPK Festival in summer TFFQ
.
12 t.BQ%tt0QFO
TVNNFSBNoQN oQN5VFo4VO ^ Ivan Gundulić,
Dubrovnik
XJOUFSBNoQN5VFo4VOt"ENDIBSHF Oversized Meštrović statue,
honouring the life and work of

( National Museum, Zadar


Housed in the Benedictine
this local 17th-century poet.

monastery, this museum docu- & Juraj Dalmatinac,


Pag Town
ments Zadar and its environs from A lifelike statue of the man
the 16th to the 19th centuries who designed Pag Town.
through photographs, paintings
and impressive scale models.
d 1PMKBOB1BQF"MFLTBOESB***CCt.BQ
* Franjo Tuđman,
Pridraga
A giant statue of the former
B3 ttXXXON[ISt 0QFO Croatian president takes centre
BNoQN.PO 5VF 5IV 'SJBNoOPPO  stage in this small town, which
oQN8FEt"ENDIBSHF was decimated during the war
of the early 1990s TFFQ
.

) Archeological
Zadar
Museum,
( Juraj Dalmatinac,
Šibenik
The exhibits chart the city’s The architect keeps a watch-
evolution from Neolithic times ful eye on the cathedral he
through to Roman settlement, the didn’t live to see completed.
Byzantine era and the early Middle
Ages. Highlights include a model of ) Father Andrija Kačić
Miošić, Makarska
the Roman forum, an impressive Impressive tribute to this
collection of glassware and artifacts 18th-century priest and poet.
from the Liburnian period TFFQ
.

In Croatian addresses, “bb” is short for bez broja, meaning 41


“without number”.
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

Left Prižna Bay, Lumbarda Right Zlatni Rat, Brač

Beaches
!Zlatni Rat, Brač
The “Golden Cape” – a
but the sweeping views of old
Dubrovnik are hard to beat, the
popular sweep of fine shingle waters are clean, and the island
that curls out, lapped by the of Lokrum tempts offshore.
currents of the Adriatic, from d Map K5
the pine-fringed southern flank
of the island of Brač – is much
eulogized, and photos of this $ Pakleni Islands, Hvar
The “Islands of Hell” may
distinctive landmark near the not sound too inviting, but this
resort of Bol are, deservedly, necklace of tiny islands just off
omnipresent in holiday brochures. Hvar provides plenty of great
d Map E5 places to laze by the sea. A short
boat trip from Hvar Town and

@ Orebić
You couldn’t wish for a more
you find yourself sitting by the
Adriatic with very little in the
spectacular location to unfurl way of tourist development to
your towel than the beach of this spoil the surroundings. Clothes
small resort, with its collage of are very much optional on Jerolim.
fine shingle and sand. Across d Map D6
the water, on the nearby island
of Korčula, you can see the
terracotta roof tiles of Korčula % Nin
The Northern Dalmatian town
Town, as starched mountain- of Nin is renowned as a site of
scapes embrace all around (see religious and historical importance,
p91). d Map H1 but it’s also surrounded by real
sand beaches, something of a

£ City Beach, Dubrovnik


The sand may be imported,
rarity in the region. Development
remains low-key, and when the
and there‘s an entry charge to wind blows in strongly from the
the section with sun loungers, Velebit mountains the waters are
best left to windsurfers,
but on a hot summer’s
day there are few better
places to be (see p74).
d Map B3

^ Telašćica
Park
Nature

Framed around the epic


sweep of Telašćica Bay,
this nature park on Dugi
Otok is now being
City Beach, Dubrovnik reforested after a serious

42 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com


fire in 1995. There are plenty of
little nooks and crannies where
you can search for your own bit
of paradise, but beware visiting
yachts that tend to venture into

Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


isolated coves when you least
expect it. Note that facilities are
rather limited. d Map B4

& Gradac
The small town of Gradac
boasts the longest beach in
Croatia, and the best on the
Makarska Riviera. Shingle and
pebbles abound along the tree-
fringed shoreline. Out to sea,
the island of Hvar looms on the
horizon. Some sections of the Gradac, Makarska Riviera
beach offer tourist facilities;
others are far more rustic. In summer there are boats as well.
summer it can be tricky to find a If Pržina Bay gets a little too
secluded spot (see p82). d Map J1 crowded for your liking, nearby
Bilin Žal tends to be a bit quieter.

* Zrće, Novalja, Pag


Not quite yet the “Croatian
d Map H2

Ibiza” it aims to become, this


sweep of sand and shingle set ) Koločep
Just a short ferry-ride from
apart from the resort of Novalja Dubrovnik, the island of Koločep
is nonetheless spectacular, with has a good sandy beach, which
the starched scenery of Pag all is usually a lot quieter than the
around and the Velebit mountains ones in and around the city. This
rising in the background. Three is not a glitzy resort or family-
large nightclubs, beach bars, and friendly oasis – just a quiet and
fast-food outlets fail to spoil the unassuming spot for those
scenery of a beach that feels looking to venture off the beaten
pretty remote from just about track (see p95). d Map K2
everywhere. d Map A2
1RYDOMD

( Pržina
*RVSLÉ
Bay, 3DJ %261,$
+(5&(*29,1$
Lumbarda *UDÏDF 'UYDU
1LQ
While chocolate-box =DGDU
3RVHGDUMH

beauty Korčula Town 'XJL %HQNRYDF


.QLQ
2WRN
gets all the plaudits, 0XUWHU /LYQR
6NUDGLQ
the nearby town of ĢLEHQLN 6LQM .RQMLF
Lumbarda has much 6SOLW
7URJLU
better beaches. Pržina 2PLģ
0RVWDU
0DNDUVND
Bay has a decent %UDÏ

sandy beach with a +YDU *UDGDF


0HWNRYLÉ
9LV 2UHELÉ
sprinkling of cafés in a "ESJBUJD 3ORÏH
.RUÏXOD
very low-key scene. 4FB 0DOL6WRQ
/DVWRYR 0OMHW
Buses run daily from 'XEURYQLN
Korčula Town, while in  NJMFT  LN 

43
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

Left Hiking Right Scuba diving

Outdoor Activities
! Windsurfing
Windswept coast-
Diving Federation for
more information. d
lines near Nin, on Brač, Croatian Diving Federation:
and along the Pelješki www.diving-hrs.hr
Channel (Korčula and
Pelješac) are all popular
haunts for windsurfers. $ Sea Kayaking
This is a sport that
d Big Blue Sport: www. experts expect to take
big-blue-sport.hr off in a big way over the
Windsurfing coming years, with the

@ Rafting
Adrenaline-fuelled
majority of trips centred
around Dubrovnik and the Elafiti
white-water rafting trips are Islands. You can take anything
becoming increasingly popular, from a short excursion to a
with a number of operators week-long break. Local travel
organizing trips on the Cetina agencies in Dubrovnik can
River. Trips generally last from organize sea-kayaking tours.
three to four hours, and take
place on the lower stretch of
this 105-km- (65-mile-) long % Climbing
The vaulting peaks of the
waterway, around 20 minutes Biokovo, Dinaric and Velebit
from the coastal town of Omiš mountain ranges have an
(see p83). d Huck Finn: www. irresistible allure to mountain-
huck-finn.hr eers, who flock here from all
over Europe. Paklenica National
Park is well set up for climbers;
bolted routes offer a wide variety
of challenges on the lower
slopes, while free climbing is
also possible.

Rafting
^ Walking and Hiking
Dalmatia has an almost

£ Scuba Diving
Dive schools along the
infinite number of walking and
hiking opportunities, from easy,
Dalmatian coast offer trial dives, low-level walks to steep ascents
diving courses, equipment hire, requiring a higher level of
night dives and wreck dives. fitness. Seek local advice, and
Some of the best diving can be ensure that you have the right
done with Biševo’s Blue Grotto equipment. UK-based Headwater
(see p84) from the island of Vis, organize walking holidays around
where there are myriad offshore the Dalmatian coast. d Headwater:
wrecks. Contact the Croatian www.headwater.com

44
& Tennis
National heroes Goran
Top 10 Spectator
Sports
Ivanišević, Mario Ančić and Iva
Majoli have all fuelled Croatia’s
love of tennis. Public courts can
! Football
Dalmatians are passionate

Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


about football. Football shirts
be found near resort hotels and and the graffiti of their fans
towns throughout Dalmatia. One (known as the Torcida) attest
of the region’s most famous to the fact that most support
courts is in the Bačvice area of premier-division Hajduk Split.
Split, where Ivanišević trained as
a youngster. @ Basketball
Dalmatia’s most famous
stars, Dražen Petrović and

* Swimming
Given Croatia’s lengthy
Krešimir Ćosić (now both sadly
deceased), fuelled the nation’s
dedication to the sport.
coastline, it’s hardly surprising
that swimming is a popular
outdoor sport. Those not keen £ Tennis
Because Croatia has its
to swim in the sea will find own home-grown tennis
enclosed pools near the celebrities, Croatians like to
waterfronts in Korčula, Split and watch the game as much as
they like to play it.
Šibenik, amongst others.

$ Sailing
( Snorkelling
Cheap and easy, with a
Regular regattas and boat
shows have made sailing more
than just a participant sport.
bountiful coastline to choose
from; just don a mask and
flippers, and you’re away. % Beach Volleyball
During peak season, beach
volleyball matches spring up

) Picigin, Split
A summer sport peculiar to
along the Makarska Riviera.

Split, picigin is more about ^ Water Polo


A strong national team
posing than point-scoring. Head has secured water polo a
to Bačvice (see p25), stand in sizable following.
the sea with a small black rubber
ball, wearing your best swimwear & Bočanje
A popular sport similar to
and designer sunglasses, throw the French game pétanque.
the ball nonchalantly then catch
it with one hand, and you will
blend in with the Spličani.
* Extreme Sports
Brač’s annual extreme
sports festival is held in July
each year. Enjoy free climbing,
windsurfing, skating, biking,
paragliding, and more.

( Handball
Handball has surged in
popularity since Croatia won
gold at the 2004 Olympics.

) Rowing
The Skelin brothers from
Split took silver at the 2004
Olympics. Most Dalmatian
towns have a rowing club.
Picigin

45
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

Left Hvar Town Right Sailing in the Kornati Islands

Sailing Routes
! Dubrovnik–Korčula
This southern-Adriatic route $ Murter–Kornati Islands
The sheltered nature of the
eases its way from Dubrovnik Kornati archipelago is a virtual
(see pp8–15, 58–66) to Koločep, guarantee of calm weather,
Lopud, Šipan (see p95) and Mljet making the Kornatis a favourite
(see p92). From the Mljet National haunt of novice or inexperienced
Park, head up the Pelješki Channel sailors, as well as learn-to-sail
en route to Korčula Town (see course operators.
pp16–17). A detour from Šipan
to Ston, from where you can
walk to Mali Ston (see p92) and % Zadar Archipelago
At the height of summer,
savour first-rate Adriatic fish, is when the Kornatis are crowded,
well worth it. the Zadar Archipelago, with over
200 islands, offers

@ Split–Vis
Many yachts
sailors a more
tranquil alternative.
make a beeline for (For Dugi Otok, Silba,
Brač and Hvar, and Pašman, Ugljan and
miss out on the Iž, see p77.)
beauty of Šolta
(much favoured by
the Spličani) and Vis. ^
Šibenik
Archipelago
Hvar certainly has its If you want to be able
attractions, though – to find secluded bays
not least, plenty of at any time of year,
secluded coves Sailing from Split to Vis try the islands near
flanked by impressive Šibenik. Highlights
mountains. (For Brač, Hvar, Šolta include Žirje, Prvić (see p77),
and Vis, see p84.) Kaprije, Tijat, Obonjan and Zlarin.
Zlarin (the closest to Šibenik) is

£ Split–Dugi Otok
This stunning though less
particularly appealing; cars are
banned, and residents still rely on
well-trodden route takes sailors the land and sea for a living
from Split (see pp24–5) to Šolta, (agriculture, fishing, sponge- and
Rogoznica (see p76) and Žirje, coral-diving and wine-making are
then into the Kornati Islands its key industries).
archipelago (see pp26–7), where
Piškera has a good marina. From
here, make the journey to Dugi &
Trogir–Lastovo
Watch enviously from Trogir
Otok before returning by way of marina (see pp18–19) as the
Primošten (see p74), which has millionaires moor up on the Riva
become quite a hub for sailors before heading due south to
over the years. Brač, Hvar (see p84), Korčula

46 The usually calm Croatian waters are perfect for beginners. Neilson
(www.neilson.co.uk) arrange “learn to sail” flotilla holidays.
(see pp16–17, 95) and Lastovo Top 10 Sailing Tips
(see p95). For a real Robinson
Crusoe experience, be sure to ! Know the Rules
Before you sail, check the
explore the islets to the northeast local rules of navigation with
– Češvinica, Kručica, Stomorina the Association of Nautical

Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


and Saplun. Saplun has the Tourism. d Bulevar Oslobođenja
added bonus of sand beaches. 23, 51000 Rijeka t 051 209 147

* Trogir–Dubrovnik @ Join a Flotilla


Consider joining a flotilla;
Be warned: this is a trip for shorter distances and tuition
serious sailing enthusiasts, with make them ideal for beginners.
big distances between stops.
Starting from Trogir, the route £ Reputable Operators
Adriatic Holidays, Sunsail
takes in Hvar, Vis, Vela Luka and Cosmos Yachting are all
(Korčula), Mljet and Dubrovnik. well-established businesses.
d www.adriaticholidaysonline.
com t www.sunsail.com t
www.cosmosyachting.com

$ Charter a Skipper
He or she will know the
waters, and may even cook.

% Vital Documentation
Make sure that you have
certified crew and passenger
lists, as well as proof that the
The island of Pag boat is seaworthy, has third-
party insurance, and that you
are authorized to sail it.
( Zadar–Rab
Leave the Zadar archipelago
behind and search out the island ^ Pre-book Marinas
From June to September,
of Pag (see pp37, 77), with its mooring space is at a premium.
ghostly beauty and empty bays.
From Pag, break away from & Sail During the
“Shoulder” Season
Dalmatia altogether and explore For good weather without the
the neighbouring island of Rab summer crowds, May and
in the Kvarner Gulf, where the September are best.
picture-perfect Rab Town is a
highlight not to be missed. * Weather Forecasts
Check the weather on your
VHF radio. For Dubrovnik the

) Split–Dubrovnik
An extended one-way charter
frequency is 73; for Split, 67.

allows a thorough exploration of


central and southern Dalmatia
( Pack Sparingly
It’s surprising how many
beginners try to fit six huge
taking in Split, Trogir, Šolta, Brač, suitcases on board; remember
Hvar, Vis, Korčula, Mljet and that space is at a premium.
Dubrovnik. Take the time to
explore islands and islets, like
Pakleni Otoci (see pp42, 84) and
) Annual Berths
If you are planning to berth
your boat in Croatia long-term,
the islands around Mljet’s Polače consider joining the ACI
Bay. This route also allows an (Adriatic Croatia International
exploration of more than one Club). d www.aci-club.hr
settlement on each island.

Skippered boats can be hired from companies such as Sunsail 47


(see above) and Hidden Croatia (www.hiddencroatia.com).
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

Left Adio Mare, Korčula Right Stellon, Split

Restaurants
! Vila Kaliopa, Vis Town
This enchanting restaurant $ Zlatna Ribica, Brodarica
Business types flock here to
is set in the midst of an elegant impress their clients, and it is
sculpture garden. The fish could easy to see why. Fresh fish is
not be fresher, and the service the speciality of this upscale
is every bit as stylish as the restaurant, with a feast of
surrounds (see p87). langoustines, grilled platters and
brodet (fish stew served with
polenta) complemented by fine
wines and a stunning view over
the island of Krapanj (see p79).

% Foša, Zadar
The interior is nothing
special, but the location – by the
Vila Kaliopa, Vis Town sea, looking up towards Zadar’s
old town walls – is fabulous.

@ Vila Koruna, Mali Ston


Dine on oysters and mussels
The terrace is a divine place to
relax and enjoy plump grilled
plucked straight from the waters squid on a warm day (see p79).
in front of the restaurant. With
fish and shellfish this fresh, you
may prefer them to be served ^ Stellon, Split
Fine restaurants are thin on
simply, but the restaurant is the ground in Split, but this
equally adept at conjuring up popular bolthole in the Bačvice
dishes with that extra touch of complex manages to please
flair (see p97). many tastes. For those not keen
on seafood, there’s steak with

£ Adio Mare, Korčula Town


This bustling seafood
blue cheese and truffle sauce, or
for lunch, pizza baked in a wood-
restaurant is located in the old fired oven (see p87).
quarter of Korčula Town, close to
the reputed birthplace of Marco
Polo. Fragrant smoke billows & Nostromo, Split
Nostromo is the best place
from the fish grill, beckoning to eat in the centre of town. It’s
in the crowds – but just by the fish
despite the volume market, so the
of diners, the seafood is about as
restaurant manages fresh as it gets. The
to maintain the decor is light and
quality, and few airy – a refreshing
leave unsatisfied change from nautical
(see p97). Fish platter, Nostromo, Split theming (see p87).

48 For a guide to restaurant price ranges See p69


* The Excelsior Hotel,
Dubrovnik
Top 10 Culinary
Highlights
The Excelsior Hotel has four
good restaurants, each offering
something different. The fine-
! Adriatic Platter
A generic term for a feast

Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


of Adriatic fish and shellfish,
dining Sensus has spectacular usually grilled (na žaru), and
views of the sea and of served with garlic, lemon,
Dubrovnik. You can enjoy a meal potatoes and mangold (blitva).
outside under starry skies at the
Palm Terrace, and Prora @ Ston Oysters (Oštrige)
Head to Mali Ston for
restaurant is by the beach. divine oysters straight from
Lastly, there’s a sushi bar and the beds just offshore.
restaurant with Japanese cuisine
called Satu. £ Pag Cheese (Paški Sir)
Pag produces a distinctive
salted sheep’s cheese – the
( Atlas Club Nautika,
Dubrovnik
finest cheese in the country.

Long the most famous


restaurant in the city, Atlas Club
$ Seafood
(Rižot)
Risotto

Nautika has many would-be You will find this dish featured
on menus up and down the
detractors, but it usually hits the coast – a good-value meal.
spot for most diners. The menu
nods towards the Adriatic, but
there are also meat and
% Dalmatian Ham (Pršut)
This air-dried smoked ham,
vegetarian dishes. Vying for often served as a starter with
Pag cheese, is arguably better
centre stage, though, are the than the Italian equivalent.
wonderful views, with the old
town to one side and Lovrijenac
Fortress to the other (see p69).
^ Pag Lamb (Janjetina)
Flavoursome lamb from
the parched isle where the
lambs feed on fresh herbs.

& Lobster (Jastog)


Diners can often select
their own lobster from the
tank, usually served simply.

* Grilled
na Žaru)
Squid (Lignje

Fresh squid grilled with garlic


and garnished with squeezed
lemon makes a delicious
starter or main course.
Restaurant Fontana, Trogir

( Istrian Truffles (Tartufi)


) Unlike many restaurants on
Restaurant Fontana, Trogir From Croatian Istria, both
white and black varieties are
often a match for French and
the Dalmatian coast, the Fontana
Italian truffles.
– the best restaurant in Trogir –
stays open year round. In winter
it retreats to a cosy interior; in ) Scampi (Buzara)
This rich and flavoursome
the warmer months it explodes seafood dish is a Dalmatian
out onto the waterfront Riva. speciality. Scampi are gently
simmered in a sauce of
The speciality, unsurprisingly, tomato, onion and herbs.
is seafood (see p87).

For more restaurant listings See pp68, 69, 79, 87, 97 49


Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

Left Paški sir (Pag cheese) and Pršut (smoked ham) Right Lace

Things to Buy
! Ties
Its original name – “cravat” – $ Jewellery
Dalmatia is particularly well
may be French, but the tie comes known for its red Adriatic corals
from Croatia. During the Thirty and its jewellery. The quality and
Years’ War, the French cavalry price of goods depend on the
noticed that Croatians wore their vendor. Upmarket boutiques in
scarves in a distinctive manner – Hvar Town and on the island of
which they termed à la cravate Zlarin are reliable outlets for
(“Croatian-style”). Quality ties can contemporary coral pieces.
be bought in Croata shops in Jewellers in Zadar and Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik, Split and Cavtat. are good for silver and gold.

@ Wine
Quality Dalmatian wines % Food
Paški sir (Pag cheese), pršut
include the reds Plavac, Dingač (air-dried smoked ham), olive oil
and Postup from the Pelješac and honey are all first-rate food
Peninsula. Grk and Pošip products. If you can, buy
(white) are grown in Korčula. direct from locals (look out for
Vineyards in the Konavle the handmade signs displayed
region produce delectable on the roadside), or from
Dubrovačka Malvazija (also fresh-food markets. Failing
white). Outside of Dalmatia, that, you will also find these
Žlahtina from the island of items in supermarkets and
Krk, Graševina from Slavonia, tourist shops.
and Istrian Malvazija – again
all white – are also excellent.
It’s best to buy direct from ^
Dolls in Traditional
Costume
the vineyard – otherwise, Dingač wine Dolls in traditional dress
from a Vinoteka (wine shop). are ubiquitous throughout
Dalmatia. There are dozens

£ Croatian Spirits
Dalmatians are fond of grape-,
of varieties, from cheap and
cheerful souvenirs to figures
herb- and plum-based brandies wearing handmade clothes.
like grappa, travarica and šljivovica, Ceramic dolls are a more
which are drunk as aperitifs or contemporary version.
digestifs. Grappa is an Italian spirit
made from the leftovers of the
winemaking process. Travarica &Lace
Lace products come in many
and Šljivovica are both types of guises, including tablecloths,
rakija, powerful spirits made by handkerchiefs and clothing, and
distillation of fermented fruits. can be bought in boutiques
Nicely packaged bottles crammed throughout Dalmatia. If you are
with herbs make good gifts. looking for something really

50 For more on Dalmatian wine See p106


authentic, buy intricate hand- Top 10 Tips for
woven lace made by Pag
islanders, or pick up a piece
Buying Art and Crafts
crafted by nuns in Hvar Town
using the leaves of agave plants,
! Artur Galerija,
Dubrovnik

Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


Come here for images of the
which grow on the island. Old City. d Zlatarska 2 t Map J5

* Lavender
This fragrant plant has been
@ Dubrovačka
Dubrovnik
Kuća,

A quality gift shop and art


cultivated on Hvar for the past
gallery (see p63).
75 years, and the myriad oils and
balms that are produced provide
an important source of revenue £ Gallery Stradun,
Dubrovnik
for the islanders. In late spring If you’re looking for depictions
and early summer, the scent of of Dubrovnik and Dalmatia,
this is the place. Discounts for
lavender pervades the island, cash. d Placa bb t Map H5
and a host of products are sold
at stalls around Hvar Town.
$ Sebastian, Dubrovnik
This interesting gallery
with a history dating back
over 30 years sells quality
work by famous artists from
former Yugoslavia. d Svetog
Dominika 5 t Map K5

% Arsia, Split
Arsia sells decent Meštrović
replicas, and paintings of Split.
d Dioklecijanova 3 t Map Q2
Lavender stall, Hvar
^ Dioklecijanova, Split
This street leading south
( Dalmatians take great pride
Clothing and Accessories
from the Golden Gate is home
to a handful of good craft
in their appearance, and boutique studios. d Map Q2
shops in the historic cores of
Dubrovnik, Split and Zadar, are
great places to purchase stylish
& Diocletian’s
Split
Palace,

The souvenir stalls in the


clothes and leather goods – Main Hall stock a wide
especially shoes and handbags. selection of art (see p22).

) Handicrafts
Croatia has a long tradition
* Gallery Anima, Zadar
Paintings of Dalmatia by
local artist Zoran Debelić.
of ceramics and wooden handi- d Plemića Borelli 16 t Map B3
crafts. Nautically themed goods
are common in Split, as well as
replicas of Meštrović sculptures.
( Gallery More, Zadar
Located on the old town’s
In Dubrovnik, you can pick up main street, with a good range
of typical Croatian gifts.
dolls, wooden toys and ceramic d Široka bb t Map B3
hearts – the latter harking back
to the times when the families
of seafaring men would donate
) Gallery Pia, Zadar
Ceramics, textiles and
gold or silver hearts to churches, paintings by locally and
nationally known artists.
as votive offerings to ensure the d Jadro 9 t Map B3
safe return of their loved ones.

In Croatian addresses, “bb” is short for bez broja, meaning 51


“without number”.
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

Left Stradun, Onoforio’s fountain Right Sea kayaking

Children’s Dalmatia
 Beaches
Sandy beaches may be few
sunscreen and carry plenty of
water. Cafés located along the
and far between, but Dalmatia way to high vantage points, at
boasts long stretches the top of towers, and in the
of clean, sun-kissed fortifications themselves,
pebble and shingle help ease the strain for
beach. Even at the shorter legs.
height of summer, you
will find whole swathes
of shoreline deserted.  Krka National Park
This fun-filled
On busy public beaches, natural wonderland
snack bars, sun should keep everyone
loungers and parasols happy, with lush
are common – some vegetation, thundering
even have changing Wooden walkways, waterfalls, imposing
rooms and showers. Krka National Park monuments and a maze
of wooden walkways –

 Public Swimming Pools


They may not be plush, but
not to mention boat rides and
the chance to take a dip in the
Dalmatia has some of the best- water (see pp21–2).
located public swimming pools
in Europe, allowing parents to
enjoy views of places such as  Paklenica National Park
Deliberately manicured for
Kor¦ula Old Town, the island of tourists, the lower levels of
Šolta (from Split) and the bay at Velika Paklenica have ascents
Šibenik while the kids take a dip. with solid paths that are quite
manageable for older children.

 Fortifications and Towers


Dalmatia overflows with
Information boards document
the park’s wildlife and fauna.
towers and fortifications offering The calm waters that hug the
stunning views. Lather on the beaches of the nearby resort
at Starigrad are also perfect for
kids (see p73).

 Ferries
The whole length of the
Dalmatian coast is awash with
catamarans and ferries of all
shapes and sizes, transforming a
sightseeing visit to an island into
a sea-borne adventure. It’s best
to leave the car behind at the
Ferry, Split to Vis height of the summer.

52 For more on Dalmatia’s beaches See pp42–3


& Resort Hotels
The swimming pools, tennis
Top 10 Children’s
Attractions
courts and other leisure facilities
at resort-style hotels will keep
kids happily occupied for hours.
! City Beach, Dubrovnik
The banana boat rides are

Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


always a popular distraction in
Full- and half-board options are summer (see p42).
worth considering, particularly
with younger children.
@ Croatia’s “Dead Sea”
Children are delighted to
find they can float with ease
in the salt waters of the Mrtvo
More, a sea-fed lake on the
island of Lokrum (see p94).

£ Biševo Grotto
On a sunny day, nothing
is more spectacular (see p84).

$ Beach Activities, Hvar


The beach just outside the
Amphora Hotel is a good place
Swimming pool, Dubrovnik Palace Hotel to hire snorkelling equipment
and mountain bikes (see p84).

* Cycling
Once you get away from the % Spanish Fort,
Hvar Town
busy highways and tourist resorts, This 16th-century fort is a firm
Dalmatia is replete with cycling favourite with all ages, and the
young ones can burn off some
opportunities. Many hotels and energy on the steep ascent.
campsites rent bikes to guests;
some provide them free of charge.
^ Split Football Stadium
Treat the kids to some
thrilling soccer action at the
( Adventure Sports
If your older children crave
home of popular premier-
division side Hajduk Split.
a little excitement, adrenaline- d www.hnkhajduk.hr
pumping white-water rafting, sea
kayaking, river canoeing, sailing,
mountain biking and organized
& Roman Ruins, Salona
Stimulate their imaginations
with a visit to this fascinating
hiking trips can be arranged at archeological site (see p81).
local travel agencies.
* St Ana Fort, Šibenik
) International Children’s
Festival
The kids can maraud
around this ancient fortifi-
cation while you take in the
For a fortnight every year (June stunning views (see p73).
to July), stages and public
squares in the historic city of
Šibenik (see p73) host lively
( Obala Kralja Petra
Krešimira IV, Zadar
children’s theatre, music and Zadar’s beautiful waterfront
has attractions such as the
puppet shows. A tradition that Sea Organ.
spans almost half a century, the
International Children’s Festival
appeals to younger children,
) Puppet Theatre, Zadar
If wet weather spoils your
Croatian and non-Croatian alike. plans, check out this fun venue.
d Obala Kralja Tomislava bb
There’s also an art programme, t 023 319 181
including children’s workshops.

For more on outdoor activities See pp44–5 53


Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

Left Split Summer Festival Right Dubrovnik Festival

Festivals & Events


! Feast of St Blaise,
Dubrovnik $ Zadar Summer Theatre
This lively festival of theatre,
On 3 February, the citizens of music and dance was founded in
Dubrovnik commemorate the life 1995. Most of the productions
and work of their patron saint take place in a variety of outdoor
and protector (see p38). The locations around the old city.
celebrations begin at 10am, with d www.hkk-zadar.hr t Jul–Aug
a mass held outside the cathedral.
At 11:30am, reliquaries of St
Blaise are carried in a procession % Musical Evenings in St
Donat’s Church, Zadar
around the city. Every summer, St Donat’s Church
(see p31) and other ecclesiastical
venues in Zadar come alive with
a host of Baroque, Renaissance,
medieval and chamber concerts.
d www.donat-festival.com t mid-Jul–
mid-Aug

^ Dubrovnik Festival
For over 50 years, stages in
Feast of Saint Blaise celebrations historic venues, churches and
the open air have filled the old

@ Carnival
Spectacular Shrove Tuesday
city with theatre, dance and
music. Performances of
carnival processions take place in Shakespeare in the Lovrijenac
Split, where masked locals burn Fortress sell out quickly. d www.
an effigy of Krnjo, a mythical dubrovnik-festival.hr t mid-Jul–late Aug
figure representing everything
bad that has happened to the
city over the previous year. On
the same day, in a celebration
known as Poklad, the inhabitants
of Lastovo commemorate a 15th-
century victory of the islanders
over pirates; a puppet is chased,
captured and burned at the stake.

£Libertas
Dubrovnik
Film Festival,

This festival screens independent


feature-length films, document-
aries and short films. d www.
libertasfilmfestival.com t Jun, Jul Musical evenings in St Donat’s Church

54 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com


& Split Summer Festival
Opera, ballet, classical music,
Top 10 Venues
pop, and a diverse array of ! Marin Držić Theatre,
Dubrovnik
theatrical performances heighten Ornate venue staging a wide-
the energy in Dalmatia’s largest ranging theatrical programme.

Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast


city. Open-air productions held in d Pred Dvorom 3 t 020 321 088
Diocletian’s Palace (see pp22–3)
are the highlight, with the staging @ Rector’s
Dubrovnik
Palace,
of Verdi’s Aida in the Peristyle an Classical concerts are staged
enduring favourite. d www.splitsko- in the open-air atrium from
ljeto.hr t mid-Jul–late Aug April to October (see pp14–15).

£ Sponza Palace,
Dubrovnik
Atmospheric venue in the
inner courtyard of this 16th-
century palace (see p11).

$ Church of St Saviour,
Dubrovnik
This old-town church hosts
classical concerts every
Traditional swords and shield of the Moreška Monday at 9pm (see p11).

* Moreška, Korčula Town % Town Theatre, Hvar


One of Europe’s earliest
This traditional 15th-century theatres. d Trg Svetog Stjepana
sword-dance, staged in Korčula t 021 741 009
Town on the Feast of St Theodore
(29 July), portrays good and evil
kings fighting for the affections
^ Open Air Theatre,
Korčula Town
This compact circular arena
of a beautiful maiden. Though the overlooks the harbour and the
swords are wooden, the battles Pelješac Peninsula.
are spectacularly choreographed.
& Fort of St Nicholas,
Šibenik
( Summer Festivals
In July and August, summer
In season, a flotilla of boats
ferries concertgoers to the
festivals lasting anything from fort from Šibenik (see p76).
two weeks to two months fill
the cultural calendars of many
towns throughout Dalmatia, with
* Šibenik Theatre
This grand venue was
modelled on Venice’s Teatro
dance, theatre and music gracing Fenice. d Kralja Zvonimira 1
outdoor and indoor stages. Some t 022 213 145
of the liveliest festivals are held
in Cavtat, Hvar Town, Makarska,
Ston, Trogir and Pag.
( Croatian National
Theatre, Split
Impressive theatre hosting
opera, ballet and classical

) Split Jazz Festival


This festival runs during the
music performances. d Trg
Gaje Bulata 1 t 021 344 999
summer for a week or so, and
brings internationally renowned ) Croatian National
Theatre, Zadar
jazz performers of the calibre This opulent venue hosts
of Diana Krall, Charlie Haden theatre, opera and ballet.
and Michael Brecker to the d Široka 8 t 022 314 552
Dalmatian capital.

You can see Moreška dancing throughout the main summer 55


season in Korčula Town.
AROUND
DUBROVNIK
& THE

TOP 10 OF DUBROVNIK & THE DALMATIAN COAST


DALMATIAN
COAST
Dubrovnik
58–69
Northern Dalmatia
72–79
Central Dalmatia
80–87
Southern Dalmatia
90–97
Around Dubrovnik

Left Old Harbour Right Recital at the Rector’s Palace

Dubrovnik

B YRON CALLED IT “THE PEARL OF THE ADRIATIC”. George Bernard Shaw


proclaimed that “Those who seek paradise on earth should seek it in
Dubrovnik.” Now fully recovered from the bitter Serbian and Montenegrin
siege of 1990–91, this remarkable former city-state has in its historic centre
perhaps the most attractive and well preserved Baroque core of any European
city, its swathe of churches, palaces and old stone houses neatly contained
within the sturdy walls that have protected its famed libertas (freedom) for
centuries. Much of what you see today is the result of painstaking reconstruction
after the earthquake of 1667; now, all new building work is strictly controlled,
even down to the shade of green to be used on the
shutters of the city’s main thoroughfare, the Stradun.

Sights
Stradun and City Walls  Old Harbour

Dominican Monastery  War Photo Limited
Cathedral  Museum of Modern Art
Church of St Blaise  Sponza Palace
Rector’s Palace  Lovrijenac Fortress

City walls

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58 Preceding pages Hvar Town, island of Hvar


! Stradun and City Walls
There are few better ways £ Cathedral
Erected after the 1667
to begin your exploration of earthquake, today’s Baroque
Dubrovnik than a stroll down cathedral (see p39), crafted by
the Stradun or a walk around Italian architects, replaced an

Around Dubrovnik
the city walls (see pp8–11). earlier Romanesque structure.
The cathedral houses a treasury

@ Dominican Monastery
The Dominicans were allowed
with a famous collection of more
than 200 reliquaries, including a
into the city in the 14th century, 12th-century Byzantine case
on condition that they helped to containing the skull of the much
protect its southern entrance. venerated St Blaise, and
The monastery buildings that casks containing his hands
you see today – and one of his legs. It
the large church, also displays what
cloisters and is claimed to be a
museum – were fragment of the
constructed from cross on which Jesus
scratch after the original Skull of St Blaize was crucified, and a
complex was more or copy of Raphael’s
less flattened by the earthquake of Virgin of the Chair reputed to
1667. Highlights include the have been made by the grand
Gothic cloisters, 14th-century master himself. d Poljana Marina
Italian painter Paolo Veneziano’s Držića t Map J6 t 020 323 459 t 8am–
Crucifixion (in the church), and the 5:30pm, 5–7pm daily t Adm charge
museum, which houses an 11th-
century Bible and a painting by
Titian, St Blaise, St Mary $ Church of St Blaise
The original 14th-century
Magdalene, the Angel Tobias and church survived the earthquake
the Purchaser – the man on his largely intact, only to burn down
knees in the latter is a member of in a fire in 1706. Work started on
the then powerful Pučić family, the present incarnation later the
who funded the work. d Svetog same year, to plans by Italian
Dominika 4 t Map K4 t 020 321 423 architect Marino Gropelli, who
t May–Oct: 9am–6pm daily; Nov–Apr: based the design of the interior
9am–5pm daily t Adm charge on that of a Baroque church in his
home town. Punctuating the
ornate façade are four pillars
watched over by an array of
saints. The stained-glass windows
are another striking feature – a
late-20th-century addition of a
kind quite unusual in this part
of Europe (see pp11, 38).

% Rector’s Palace
The position of Rector of
Dubrovnik was the ultimate job-
share; each incumbent held it
for just one month. For that brief
period, the Rector’s Palace was
Crucifixion by Paolo Veneziano his home (see pp14–15).

Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com 59


Fall of the Republic exhibit takes an impartial and
Dubrovnik was always proud of thought-provoking look at the
its libertas, but on 26 May 1806 it conflicts that have battered the
risked it in return for French region since 1991. At the helm
assistance in lifting a siege by is New Zealander Wade Goddard,
Around Dubrovnik

Russian and Montenegrin forces. who has brought together two


The French outstayed their floors of striking images that don’t
welcome, and on 31 January hold back on shocking detail, but
1808 the Republic of Ragusa was
avoid the temptation to label and
officially dissolved as Dubrovnik
became part of Napoleon’s judge. It is perhaps the ultimate
“Illyrian Provinces”. tribute to the gallery that while
many Croats feel it is too pro-
Serb, many Serbs feel it is too

^ Old Harbour
Dubrovnik’s first harbour
pro-Croat. The gallery itself is
a well thought-out space that
stood to the west side of the allows the photographs to speak
city, between the Pile Gate and for themselves. d Antuninska 6
the Lovrijenac Fortress, but it t Map H4 t 020 322 166 t www.warphoto
failed to offer sufficient shelter, ltd.com t May–Oct: 9am–4pm Tue–Sat,
and in any case soon became 10am–2pm Sun; Jun–Sep: 9am–9pm daily
too small as the city grew. The t Adm charge
Old Harbour, on the east side of
the Old City, is a much grander
affair, with the Revelin and St
John’s forts guarding either flank.
Amenities are limited here, but
there are one or two places to
eat, and take in the busy
summer scene; there’s always a
flurry of small fishing boats and
tourist craft enjoying the
harbour’s protection, and there Olive Trees by Ignjat Job, Museum of
are good views down the coast Modern Art
towards Cavtat. d Map K5

& War Photo Limited * Museum of Modern Art


This avant-garde gallery
Not many tourists make it to is housed in an enormous
this controversial new museum, Renaissance-style villa set in a
mistakenly believing that they prime spot in affluent Ploče. The
are going to be presented with light and airy multi-floored venue
a biased depiction of the war in makes the perfect setting for an
Croatia. In reality, the main eclectic array of permanent and
temporary exhibitions. Look out
for sculptures by Ivan Meštrović
(1883–1962) (see p40), portraits
by the Cavtat-born Vlaho Bukovac
(1855–1922), and the work of
Frano Kršinić (1897–1982), another
renowned Croatian sculptor, from
Lumbarda in Korčula. d Frana Supila
23 t Map M5 t 020 426 590 t 10am–8pm
War Photo Limited daily t Adm charge

60
A Day in Dubrovnik
Morning
If you’re an early riser,
climb the city walls when

Around Dubrovnik
they open (9am) and you
may have them largely to
yourself. Make a leisurely
circuit taking in their sights
(see pp8–9) and watching
the city as it gradually
comes to life below. Stop
at St John’s Fort to visit
the Maritime Museum
Sponza Palace (see p62) and Aquarium
(see p62). Descend to the

( Sponza Palace
Architect Paskoje Miličević’s
Stradun, and if you didn’t
take breakfast at your
hotel, enjoy a coffee and
masterpiece (1506–22) was one a pastry at the Festival
of the few buildings to survive Café (see p65) – it’s a
the 1667 earthquake. Its exterior great vantage-point from
presents the onlooker with a which to observe the
striking combination of Gothic frenetic street-life of the
city’s main artery.
and Renaissance architecture.
Among the highlights are the Continue strolling gently
flamboyant Gothic windows on down the Stradun, just
the first floor, the Gothic cloisters, absorbing the atmosphere
and the expert stone carving rather than delving into its
various attractions. Enjoy
of brothers Nikola and Josip an early seafood lunch at
Andrijić, including a lofty St Blaise noon in Kamenica (see
who looks down on the Stradun p68) in Gundulićeva
from the second floor (see p11). Poljana (see p62), and
absorb the colourful sights
and sounds of the market
) Lovrijenac Fortress
This sweeping fortress rises
in the same square.

steeply out of the Adriatic to the Afternoon


west of the city walls. Historically After lunch, head across
it served both as a place to store to the Rector’s Palace
the city’s gold and as a military (see pp14–15) and take
hub and battery where the city a self-guided audio tour.
Continue around to the
could be brought to heel in the start of the Stradun at
event of a rebellion. The city’s oft- Luža Square. From here
quoted slogan guards the you can choose which of
entrance: “Freedom must not be this pedestrianized
sold for all the gold in the world”. thoroughfare’s attractions
to explore (see pp10–11)
The fortress serves as one of the as you travel its length
most atmospheric venues during towards the Pile Gate and
the Dubrovnik Festival (see p54), the welcoming arms of the
with Shakespeare soliloquies Kavana Dubravka café (see
echoing across the old ramparts. p65), or perhaps an early
dinner at Atlas Club
It’s a gruelling climb on a hot day, Nautika (see p69), with
but well worth the effort. d Map views over one of Europe’s
M5 t 020 324 641 t 9am–6pm daily t Adm most stunning cities.
charge (no disabled access)

Take in a concert at the Sponza Palace to see it at its most 61


atmospheric.
Around Dubrovnik

Left Church of St Ignatius Right Gundulić Square

Best of the Rest


!Convent of St Claire
The gleaming orange roof tiles ^ Gundulićeva Poljana
(Gundulić Square)
of this former monastery beckon This beautiful square is home
when seen from the Old City walls to a statue of Ivan Gundulić, the
(see pp8–9). Today it is home to a 17th-century poet whose Osman
casual restaurant, Jadran (see p68), recalls a great Slavic victory over
set within ornate cloisters. d Poljana the Turks. There’s a lively morning
Paska Miličeva 1 t Map H5 market here. d Map J5

@ Orthodox Church Museum & Aquarium


Two doors down from the The Aquarium is a good rainy-
refurbished Serbian Orthodox day choice, with its poisonous
Church is this colourful Icon Adriatic moray eels, stingrays
Museum with works dating from and sea horses. d Damjana Jude 12
the 15th to 19th centuries. t Map K6 t 020 323 978 t Open Jul &
d Od Puča 8 t Map J5 t 020 323 283 Aug: 9am–9pm daily; Apr–Jun, Sep, Oct:
t Open 9am–2pm Mon–Fri (May–Oct: 9am–8pm; Nov–Mar: 9am–1pm Mon–Sat
Mon–Sat) t Adm charge t Adm charge

£ Church of St Ignatius
Up a grand sweep of stairs, * Church of St Luke
Renovations spanning nine
modelled on Rome’s Spanish centuries brought this tiny single-
Steps, is this voluminous 18th- nave church to its present form
century Jesuit Church. Its dim in 1787. Look out for the saints
interior houses fine examples of carved above the main door and
trompe l’oeil. d Poljana R Boškovića the small gallery that is now
t Map J6 t Open 8am–7pm daily inside. d Svetog Dominika bb t Map K4
t 020 321 603 t Opening hours vary

$ Pustijerna
Wander the streets of this
( Rupe Ethnographic
area to the south of the Stradun Museum
in search of traces of the Old This vast space was built to store
City walls. Medieval houses, many grain, in holes bored into the rock,
in ruins, huddle along impossibly in case of siege. The museum looks
narrow lanes, giving an insight into at daily life over the years. d Od Rupa
pre-1667 Dubrovnik. d Map K6 3 t Map H5 t 020 323 013 t Open 9am–
4pm Mon, Wed–Sun t Adm charge

% Synagogue
This little synagogue, up the hill
) Marin Drižić House
from the Stradun, is said to be This museum honours a
Europe’s second oldest, after one in celebrated 16th-century Dubrovnik
Prague. d Žudioska 5 t Map J5 t Open playwright. d Široka 7 t Map H5
daily (Nov–Apr: Mon–Fri) t Adm charge t Open Tue–Sun t Adm charge

62 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com


Around Dubrovnik
Left Croata Middle Vinoteka Right Dubrovnik House

Places to Shop
!Art Silver Shop
Stylish bracelets and chunky ^ Tilda
A tiny souvenir shop tucked
rings are among the handmade between the Stradun and Prijeko,
jewellery on sale in this shop. Tilda stocks a range of traditional
Most are crafted from silver clothes and cloth adorned with
and semi-precious stones. intricate hand-embroidery.
d Nalješkovićeva 6 t Map H5 d Zlatarska 1 t Map J5

@ Dubrovačka Kuća
(Dubrovnik House) & La Scarpa
For lovers of handbags and
This is a charming gallery-cum- shoes, the handmade leather
gift shop selling quality Croatian goods in this small boutique are
wines, Istrian truffles, traditional hard to resist. Reasonably priced
souvenirs and original paintings. belts, wallets and key rings are
d Svetog Dominika bb t Map K4 also on sale. d Od Puča 8 t Map J5

£ Vinoteka
This great little wine shop * Omega 3
Omega 3’s bright, modern
in the heart of the Old City sells costume jewellery makes a great
Croatian and Slovenian wines, gift for teenagers, while its chic,
alongside olive oil and truffles. but affordable, Italian accessories
Despite its misleading address, complement a more refined
it is entered from the Stradun. wardrobe. d Od Domina 2 t Map H5
d Od Sigurate 2 t Map H4

$ Croata ( Vinoteka
This large wine shop has
Where better to buy a tie a great range of good quality
than the country in which they wines from all over Croatia and
were created? All Croata ties are a decent selection of European
handmade from silk. Look out vintages too. Attractively bottled
also for the branches in Cavtat spirits and oils are also available.
and Split. d Pred Dvorom 2 t Map J5 Those searching for the hallowed
Istrian truffle can pick up both

% Algoritam
This centrally located
pastes and oils here. The only
downside is the high mark-up.
bookstore is a great place in d Od Puča 9 t Map J5
which to browse through a wide
range of fiction and non-fiction
foreign language titles. It is also ) Jegerstar
Designer brands such as
a useful shop for visitors wanting Camper, Kickers and Diesel are
to pick up maps, phrase books on sale at this spacious shoe
and Croatian dictionaries. shop. Friendly staff will find your
d Placa 8 t Map J5 size for you. d Od Puča 7 t Map J5

In Croatian addresses, “bb” is short for bez broja, meaning 63


“without number”.
Around Dubrovnik

Left Troubadur Hard Jazz Café Right Labirint

Nightlife
! Hemingway Bar
Wicker lounge chairs decked ^ Esperanza
This popular nightclub near
with comfortable cushions offer the bus station caters to a crowd
views of the Rector’s Palace and that is into disco and techno.
cathedral, ensuring Hemingway’s Concerts are also staged here
popularity. Buzzing at night, it is from time to time. d Put Republike
shaded and quiet by day. d Pred 30 t Map L4
Dvorom bb t Map J5

@ Troubadur Hard Jazz Café & Carpe Diem


Tucked inside the Old City
Tables at this vibrant bolt Walls (see pp8–9) east of the old
hole pour out onto the square harbour, this lively bar pumps out
behind the cathedral. Regular live the latest tunes. On-street seating
music performances keep them is popular, while the interior is
full. Don’t worry if you can’t get modern and comfortable. After
a seat as the music can be heard a hectic night out, why not return
from the neighbouring bars too. for a more sedate breakfast.
d Bunićeva Poljana t Map J6 d Kneza Damjana Jude 4 t Map K6

£ Latino Club Fuego


Live music, DJs playing * Revelin Club
Saturday nights bring a bit
Latino to R & B, a chill-out room of everything at this café-bar’s
and a late-evening happy hour weekly disco, with house music,
(from 10pm to 11pm), not to pop, R&B, rock and Latino
mention a great location just grooves all part of the DJ’s set.
outside the Pile Gate, all make d Svetog Dominika bb t Map K4
Fuego popular. d Brsalje 8 t Map G4

$ Exodus ( Lazareti
An old quarantine house and
If you’re into dance music artisans’ workshops now form a
and you’re staying on the Babin venue for traditional folk perfor-
Kuk or Lapad peninsulas, then mances. Keep your eyes peeled
Exodus is for you. d Babin Kuk Hotel for posters, or check with the
Complex, Iva Dulčića 39 t Map L4 tourist office to find out what’s
on. d Frana Supila 8 t Map M5

% Labirint
In high season this enter-
) Klub Orlando
tainment complex overlooking This venue, 10 minutes’ walk
the old harbour has a small, and north of the Old City, attracts
fairly expensive, late-night disco. a young, grungy crowd with its
It is the location and the outdoor live music, cult cinema and
terrace that you are paying for. alternative discos. d Branitelja
d Svetog Dominika 2 t Map K5 Dubrovnika 41 t Map M4

64 The majority of nightclubs in Dubrovnik close by 1am; exceptions


include Latino Club Fuego, Labirint, Esperanza and Exodus.
Around Dubrovnik
Left Buža Right Katie O’Connor’s

Cafés and Bars


! Festival Café
At the western end of the ^ Sunset Lounge
Cocktails and stunning
Stradun, this café has a mellow sunset vistas over the Elafiti
and sophisticated air. Director’s Islands and Mljet are to be had
chairs on the pavement are great from the Hotel Dubrovnik
for sitting back in and watching Palace’s public bar. They more
the world go by. If you’ve been than reward the 15-minute bus
hankering after single-malt journey from Brsalje. d Masarykov
Scotch whisky, look no further. Put 20 t Map K4
d Placa 28 t Map H5

@ On a sunny day follow the


Buža & Irish Pub Karaka
This buzzing bar, with live
football and a lengthy happy hour
signs from Gundulićeva Poljana (from 5pm to 8pm), is popular
(see p62) to this great open-air with English-speakers. d Između
bar. Located on the rocks outside Polača 5 t Map J5
the southern Old City Walls, it
has great views over the sea to
Lokrum. It serves cold drinks * Gaffe
New to Dubrovnik’s bar
only. d off Od Margarite t Map J6 scene, Gaffe is a more refined
version of the Irish theme bar

£ Gradska Kavana
This revamped city café has
across the street, with a green
and dark-wood decor. The staff
a terrace that is a great place for are friendly and the atmosphere
a spot of people watching. relaxed. d Od Polača 5 t Map J5
d Pred Dvorom bb t Map J5

$ The views from this low-key


Kavana Dubravka ( Netcafe
This contemporary café-bar,
with modern flat screens and
café’s terrace are spectacular. It high-speed Internet access, is a
is located between the Pile Gate pleasant choice for a drink, even
and the Lovrijenac Fortress. if you don’t want to go online. The
d Brsalje bb t Map G4 staff are unfailingly welcoming
and helpful. d Prijeko 21 t Map J4

% Katie O’Connor’s
This charming Irish pub is
) Razonoda Wine Bar
situated in a century-old stone Sip delectable Croatian
cellar. Come here for the largest and international vintages in the
selection of beers, stouts, ales, Pučić Palace’s elegant wine bar.
ciders and spirits in Dubrovnik. Be sure to bring some friends,
The traditional English breakfasts and plenty of cash or a credit
are also a popular draw. card, as the wines are only sold
d Dropčeva 4 t Map J5 by the bottle. d Od Puča 1 t Map J5

In Croatian addresses, “bb” is short for bez broja, meaning 65


“without number”.
Around Dubrovnik

Left Lokrum Right City Beach

Beyond the City Walls


! Gruž Harbour
This increasingly busy ^ Lapad Peninsula
This hotel-laden peninsula
harbour, to the north of the retains its beauty through its
Old City, bustles with ferries verdant woodland and has
and cruise ships. It also boasts a string of good walking routes.
a cluster of old, Venetian-style The highest peak, Velika Petka,
palaces. The fresh fruit and rises to 192 m (629 ft). d Map K4
vegetable market held every
weekday morning is a great
place to get a feel for the real & Babin Kuk Peninsula
Sharing the same rump
Dubrovnik. d Map L4 of land as Lapad, Babin Kuk is
another tree-cloaked peninsula

@ Mount Srđ
The return of the cable car
that remains a pleasant area for
walking, despite a flurry of hotel
that used to ascend Mount Srđ building. d Map K4
has been mooted. For now, it is
an arduous hike or a drive to the
top, to take in the unmatched * Copacabana Beach
This popular beach offers
view of the Old City. d Map M4 a range of water sports, from
windsurfing and water-skiing to

£ Lokrum
Temptingly positioned just
banana-boat rides. You can rent a
kayak and explore Babin Kuk from
offshore is an unspoilt island that the sea. There are also water-
is a world away from the city, with slides for the kids and beach
quiet coves, an old monastery bars for the grown ups. d Map L4
and a crumbling fort. Boats leave
from the old port. d Map M5
( Lapad Bay
The bay that separates

$ City Beach
With great views of the Old
Lapad and Babin Kuk boasts its
own tree-shaded beach, which is
City, this beach has been the largest in Dubrovnik. It is a
revamped, with imported sand perfect spot to while away a
and a bar, restaurant and sun- sweltering afternoon. d Map L4
deck complex. Improvements
come at a price, so bring kuna for
sun-bed and towel hire. d Map K5 ) Votive Church
The oldest church outside
the Old City is dedicated to

% Tuđman Bridge
This graceful bridge provides
Dubrovnik’s patron saint,
St Blaise. A church has stood
a suitably grand northern entrance on the site since at least the
to the city. It also serves as 13th century, though today’s
an impressive memorial to the incarnation dates from the 14th
country’s first president. d Map K2 century. d Gorica Hill, Gruž t Map L4

66 Atlas Travel Agency (www.atlas-croatia.com) organizes excursions


to Montenegro, Mostar and Međugorje.
Around Dubrovnik
Tour boat on excursion from Dubrovnik

Excursions from Dubrovnik


! Boat Trips
A myriad of tour boats ease ^ Kotor
Dip south across the border
their way out into the Adriatic into Montenegro and your reward
from the old harbour and Gruž, is the nearest the Adriatic has
setting course for nearby islands. to a fjord – the stunning Kotor
Short excursions, half-day and day Bay – and the charming historical
trips are available. d Map K5, L4 town of Kotor itself. d Map M3

@ Scenic Flights
Stunning views unfold on & Sveti Stefan
Further on into Montenegro,
a scenic flight out over the Old this hotel is set on its own island
City and Lokrum, with options to and was once a favourite of the
head north towards Korčula (see international jet set. Today’s day-
p95) and the Pelješac Peninsula. trippers can walk the island and
d Dubrovnik airport t Map L3 t 020 478 dine in the restaurant. d off map
674 t www.aer-marina.com

£ South of Dubrovnik, this


Konavle Safaris * Trebinje
For a taste of a true Bosnian
market, nip over the border on
unspoilt region offers the chance a Saturday and enjoy the hectic
to get away from it all on an “eco fun it offers. The centuries peel
tour”. Some operators offer hotel away in the attractive old town,
pick up; check with the tourist which boasts Orthodox churches
information office for further and a mosque. d Map L2
details. d Map L3

$ This pleasant small fishing


Mlini ( Mostar
The old bridge that gave the
city its name has been expertly
village 11 km (7 miles) south of restored following its notorious
Dubrovnik has a palm-lined water- destruction during the 1990s
front and traditional stone houses. conflict. It is the top sight in this
Numerous streams, which once Bosnian city, which lies close to
fed its mills, and a decent beach the Croatian border. d off map
add to Mlini’s appeal. d Map L3

% Neighbouring Mlini, Srebreno


Srebreno ) Međugorje
Even during the war, pilgrims
flocked into Bosnia to the spot
has a long stretch of beach. It is where the Virgin Mary is said to
a low-key resort with two camp- have appeared to local teenagers
sites and walking and hiking in 1981. Facilities catering to
opportunities in the mountains, hoards of visitors have tainted
which protect the village from things a bit, but this is still a
northerly winds. d Map L2 remarkable place to visit. d Map J1

Mlini and Srebreno are accessible by local bus from Dubrovnik. 67


Always carry your passport when crossing international borders.
Around Dubrovnik

Left Mea Culpa Middle Kamenica Right Jadran

Cheap Eats
! Mea Culpa
Gargantuan Italian-style pizzas ^ Poklisar
Decent pizzas and fish main
and reasonable prices make Mea courses are on offer here, but
Culpa a favourite with locals and the real reasons for paying a visit
visitors alike. Dine in the cosy to Poklisar are the outdoor tables
interior or at a street-side table. overlooking the old port and the
d Za Rokom 3 t Map H5 tt, late opening hours. d Ribarnica 1
t.BQ,t 020 322 176 t,,

@ Sesame
Just east of the Pile Gate, this
& Arka
roof-top terrace is a good place to Arka boasts a varied menu
escape the summer crowds. The including all the usual Dalmatian
food consists of well-prepared fish and meat dishes. Breaking
Dalmatian dishes. d Don Frane Bulića with convention, this informal
7 t Map M4 t 020 412 910 t,,, eatery also has good vegetarian
options. Tourist information and

£ Kamenice
Gorge on huge plates of fried
Internet access is available.
d Od Jeznita 7 t Map J5 t,,,
squid, fresh mussels, seafood
risotto and grilled scampi, washed
down with a crisp house white. * Fish Sandwich Bar
A tasty selection of fish
It’s great value and the outdoor rolls on home-made bread and
setting is wonderful. d Gundulićeva portions of fried squid can either
Poljana 8 t Map J5 t 020 323 682 t, be taken away or enjoyed perched
on the stools outside. d Široka bb

$ Jadran
Enjoy fresh Adriatic seafood
t Map H5 t,

and simple grilled meats in the


attractive courtyard of St Claire’s ( Spaghetteria Toni
Located just off the Stradun,
Convent (see p62). Just a stone’s this great little trattoria has
throw from the Stradun, the friendly staff and serves fresh
setting is unexpectedly tranquil. pasta just like mamma would
d Poljana Paska Milićevića 1 t Map H5 make it. d Nikole Božidarevića 14
t 020 429 325 t,,, t Map H5 t 020 323 134 t,

% Lokanda Peskarija
Lokanda Peskarija serves a ) Škola
This tiny outlet sells
simple menu of mussels, squid, delicious sandwiches created
seafood risotto and scampi. Out- using bread freshly made on the
door benches overlook the old premises and offers unbeatable
harbour, while the rustic interior is value. The tasty fillings include
atmospheric. d Na Ponti bb t.BQ, cheese, pršut and grilled vege-
t 020 324 750 t Closed 25 Dec–1 Feb t, tables. d Antuninska 1 t Map H5 t,

68 In Croatian addresses, “bb” is short for bez broja, meaning


“without number”.
Price Categories
For a three-course K under 100kn
meal for one with half KK 100–150kn
a bottle of wine (or KKK 150–200kn
equivalent meal), taxes KKKK 200–250kn
and extra charges. KKKKK over 250kn

Around Dubrovnik
Atlas Club Nautika

Top-end Restaurants
! Atlas Club Nautika
Share an Adriatic fish platter ^ Proto
Proto shines out above most
or Chateaubriand with a loved of the Old City eateries, with a
one as the Adriatic laps at the menu that focuses on seafood,
rocks below (see also p49). but which caters for meat-eaters
d Brsalje 3 t Map G4 t 020 442 526 too. The terrace on the first floor
t,,,,, is the place to be in summer. d
Široka 1 t Map H5 t 020 323 234 t,,,,

@ A roof terrace overlooking


Defne

& Domino
the Stradun is home to the With a huge hoarding pin-
summer restaurant of the Pučić pointing its location, Domino is
Palace. The innovative menu hard to miss. Dine on succulent
combines Turkish and Croatian steaks on an attractive terrace
cuisine. d Od Puča 1 t Map J5 t 020 in atmospheric Pustijerna. d Od
326 200 t Closed Oct–May t,,,,, Domina 3 t Map H5 t 020 323 103
t,,,,,

£ Victoria Restaurant
The Hotel Argentina’s
* Gil’s
summer restaurant is set on an Savour fish, meat and pasta
exclusive terrace below the Villa dishes cooked to perfection, on
Orsula. Enjoy a veritable feast as the most impressive terrace in
Dubrovnik’s old port glitters ahead. the Old City, located right up on
d Frana Supila 14 t Map M5 t 020 440 the ramparts. d Svetog Dominika bb
555 t Closed lunch, Oct–May t,,,,, t.BQ,t 020 322 225 t,,,,,

$ The Excelsior Hotel


This hotel has a choice of ( Hotel Dubrovnik Palace
The refined restaurant at this
four restaurants to suit all tastes. Lapad hotel is well worth the
There’s a fine-dining option, an journey. Excellent regional wines
outside terrace, a beach accompany the creative cuisine,
restaurant and a Japanese sushi and the views over the Elafiti
bar. d Frana Supila 12 t Map M5 t 020 Islands are stunning. d Masarykov
353 353 t Hours vary, check in advance Put 20 t.BQ,t 020 430 000 t,,,,,
t,,,,

% A cosy Old City restaurant in


Rozarij ) Villa Dubrovnik
In fine weather, the terrace
at Villa Dubrovnik is ideal – right
the shadow of the Church of St by the sea, with views of the Old
Nicholas, Rozarij offers tasty City and Lokrum. Chic interior,
grilled meat and fish dishes. innovative menu Mediterranean.
d Zlatarska 4 t Map J5 t 020 321 257 d Vlahe Bukovac 6 t Map M5 t 020 422
t Closed Jan–Mar t,,,, 933 t Closed Nov–Apr t,,,,,

For more restaurant listings See pp48–9, 79, 87, 97 69


Around Northern Dalmatia

Left Šibenik Old Town Right Primošten

Northern Dalmatia

I N THE KRKA AND KORNATI NATIONAL PARKS, Northern Dalmatia possesses


two of Europe’s most stunning natural oases – escapes of breathtaking
beauty that enchant everyone from families with children to world-weary
travellers. Beyond these two sublime retreats, much of the region is still
relatively unexplored, leaving the coastal cities of Zadar and Šibenik relatively
free of the tourist crowds. Zadar is a vibrant Adriatic city whose Old Town
comes alive in summer with the bustle of pavement cafés and alfresco
restaurants, while in the Cathedral of St James, Šibenik boasts one of
Europe’s most spellbinding cathedrals, as well as a rambling Old Town of its
own. Elsewhere, surprises
such as the trim waterfront
towns of Skradin and
Novigrad await, and in the
extreme north there is Nin,
an outpost crucial to early
Croatian history, where you
will also find some of the
best beaches in the land. Krka National Park

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72 Preceding pages View of Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape), near Bol on


the island of Brač
£ Krka National Park
This natural playground of
pools, waterfalls and emerald
lakes makes for a perfect day-
trip. On a hot day, bring your

Around Northern Dalmatia


swimwear, as the boat that
brings you into the park from
Skradin drops you off near
Skradinski Buk, the best place in
the park to cool off in the clear
waters of the Krka River. The park
is well prepared for tourism, with
further boats heading off in search
of Visovac Monastery, Krka
Monastery and the waterfalls at
The Sea Gate, Zadar Old Town Roški Slap – not to mention
restaurants, cafés, ice cream stalls

! Zadar Old Town


Having hauled itself back from
and souvenir shops (see pp20–21).

economic meltdown in the 1990s,


Zadar is once again a buzzing $ Paklenica National Park
Designated a national park
Adriatic city, complete with an in 1949, Paklenica has become
attractive old core which juts out the destination of choice for savvy
confidently on its own peninsula. Slovene and Italian climbers and
This compact and largely pedes- walkers. This protected wilderness
trianized area holds the city’s main of vaulting limestone peaks rises
attractions, including a Roman from the coast through two
forum and the remarkable Church sweeping gorges, which just beg
of St Donat’s (see pp30–31). to be explored. Velika Paklenica
is perfect for day-trippers and

@ Šibenik Old Town


Given Šibenik’s unique
walkers, while the more rustic
and challenging charms of Mala
position as a city that was Paklenica attract serious outdoor
founded and developed by the types. A network of lodges and
early Croats rather than the mountain huts allows exploration
Romans or Venetians, it comes of the higher peaks, though all
as no surprise that its old core the usual precautions, as well as
is markedly different from the local advice, should be taken (see
standard Adriatic template. The p52). d .BQ#t1BSL0GmDF'SBOKF
buildings are smaller, and the TuđNBOBB 4UBSJHSBE1BLMFOJDB
streets far narrower and tighter- XXXQBLMFOJDBISt"ENDIBSHF
knit – a real warren, in
which it is easy to slip
back, in your imagination,
through the centuries. In
the streets below the
castle, forget your map
and just wander – but
don’t miss the Cathedral
of St James (see pp28–9,
37). d Map C4 t Tourist info:
Fausta Vrančića 18. 022 212 075 Lilies in the Botanical Gardens, Paklenica National Park

For the stunnning Kornati National Park See pp26–7, 77 73


&Tribunj
On the edge of the Kornati
National Park, and connected to
the mainland by a bridge, stands
the small islet of Tribunj. This is
Around Northern Dalmatia

Church of the Holy Cross, Nin the unlikely base for Dalmatia’s
largest fishing fleet, and when

% Nin
This small, unassuming town
the catch is landed, it can be an
entertaining and colourful place
played a major role in Croatia’s to be. It’s a good spot to stop
early history, when it was the for lunch or an afternoon visit;
political and religious heart of the part of the charm is that you can
kingdom. Long ignored by tourists, walk around the whole island in
it is now starting to become more 20 minutes. d Map C4 t Tourist info:
popular – not just for its relaxed Badnje bb. 022 446 143
ambience, but for its interesting
ecclesiastical buildings (see p38)
and excellent beaches (see p42).
The town is easy to explore as
a half or full day-trip, and there’s
a sprinkling of pension-style
accommodation. d Map B3 t Tourist
info: Trg Braće Radića 3. 023 265 247.
www.nin.hr

^ Primošten
Some say that Primošten
looks better from a distance than
it does close up, but this favourite
of the yachting community makes
for a very pleasant day-trip, and Fisherman mending nets, Tribunj
its hotels invite longer stays.
One of the coast’s most popular
nightclubs, Aurora (see p78), is * Krapanj
Just across from the rather
nearby. d Map C4 t Tourist info: Rudina unprepossessing mainland village
Biskupa Josipa Arnerića 2. 022 571 111 of Brodarica (easily accessed
from the Adriatic Highway) lies
The Road to Independence the picturesque island of Krapanj
Northern Dalmatia was colonized – the smallest inhabited island in
by the Greeks in the 4th century the Adriatic. The trim houses that
BC. The Romans followed, and it line the waterfront give way to a
was not until the 9th century that small old quarter that is still
the first Croat state emerged. In largely untouched by the
1202, the Venetians took Zadar, and incursions of tourism. The only
for several centuries they vied tourist attraction, housed in the
with Austria-Hungary for control
Franciscan Monastery, is the
of the region. The 20th century
saw the emergence of Yugoslavia, Town Museum, which delves
Mussolini’s occupation, and the into the island’s past as a major
35-year dominance of Tito. In 1991 sponge-diving centre. Boats from
Northern Dalmatia finally became Brodarica regularly ply the short
part of an independent Croatia. route across the channel to the
pancake-flat island. d Map C4

74 In Croatian addresses, “bb” is short for bez broja, meaning


“without number”.
A Day in Northern
Dalmatia
Morning
Make an early start and

Around Northern Dalmatia


head north out of Šibenik
to the small town of
Skradin, where you can
have a light breakfast in
Franciscan Monastery, Krapanj one of the town’s
waterfront cafés. From
here, you could just take a
( Skradin
Skradin was on the front line
boat to the Krka National
Park (see pp20–21) and
during the wars of the 1990s, and spend the day there.
both its Catholic and Orthodox Alternatively, follow the
churches took heavy damage old road which winds its
during that period. These days way alongside the new
motorway towards Zadar;
the town is prospering, thanks here, vineyards and new
both to its role as a gateway to houses are gradually
the Krka National Park (see restoring normality to a
pp20–21), and to its accessibility terrain that not so long
as a sailing destination. It’s quite ago was ravaged by war.
a compact little place, and can From the road, you could
be walked around in an hour; either drop down to Lake
afterwards, you can reward Vrana (see p76) or just
yourself with lunch or dinner in carry straight on for lunch
one of the decent seafood in Zadar (see pp30–31).
Just outside the old town,
restaurants that are geared Foša (see pp48, 79) has a
towards visiting yachtsmen. pretty terrace by the water
d Map C4 t Tourist info: Trg Male with parking nearby.
Gospe 3. 022 771 329. www.skradin.hr
Afternoon
After lunch, continue north
) Apart from a well-equipped
Novigrad
on the motorway from
Zadar. Turn off before the
campsite, tourism has yet really Maslenica Bridge and
to make its mark on Novigrad. follow the Novigradsko
The name means “New Town”, so More east to the compact
it comes as a pleasant surprise little town of Novigrad,
where you can climb the
to discover its delightful old core,
hill to the fortress and
which meanders off up the enjoy sweeping views out
hillside. Here, rather than funky over Northern Dalmatia,
pavement-cafés and ice-cream before drifting back down
stalls, expect to see card-playing to one of the waterfront
café-bars, where you can
men, and old women hanging
take a break as the local
out their washing. The best view fishing fleet goes about its
of the town is from the ruined business. If you’re short of
medieval fortress that looms time, head straight back to
over it from high on the hillside Šibenik; otherwise, make
a detour to Otavice (see
above. In season, boat trips
p76), where you can take
depart from Novigrad for the in the unforgettable family
nearby Zrmanja Gorge (see p76). mausoleum of sculptor
d Map B3 t Tourist info: Trg Kralja Tomislava Ivan Meštrović.
1. 023 375 051. www.novigrad-dalmacija.hr

Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com 75


Around Northern Dalmatia

Left Otavice Right Fortress of St Saviour, Knin

Best of the Rest


! Otavice
Ivan Meštrović’s stunning ^ Fort of St Nicholas,
Šibenik
family mausoleum overlooks his Guarding the entrance to the
parents’ village. A cubed exterior channel that leads from the
gives way to an octagonal space Adriatic into Šibenik, this charming
graced with delicate religious fortress dates back to the 16th
sculptures. d Map D4 t Open 8–noon, century. In summer, concerts are
5–8pm Tue–Sun (summer); 10am–2pm staged here. d Map C4
Tue–Sun (winter) t Adm charge

@ Fortress of St Saviour, Knin & StŠibenik


John’s Fortress,

The imposing remains of this This star-shaped fortification,


10th-century fortress, a crucial once a bulwark against the
defence against the Ottoman Ottomans (it survived a three-
Empire, sit high above the bleak week siege in 1647), rises 115 m
town of Knin. d Map D3 t 022 664 (377 ft) above sea level. d Map C4
822 t Open 8am–4pm daily t Adm charge

£ Rogoznica * Krupa Monastery


Founded in the 17th century
This old fishing village, just by Bosnian monks fleeing the
off the Adriatic Highway between Ottomans, this is the largest
Šibenik and Trogir, has become Serbian Orthodox monastery
popular with visiting sailors and in Croatia. d Map C3
holidaymakers. d Map C5 t Tourist
office: Kneza Domagoja bb. 022 559 253.
www.rogoznica.net ( Biograd Na Moru
An early Croat settlement,
Biograd Na Moru is today a

$ Starigrad Paklenica
The gateway to Paklenica
low-key resort with an attractive
waterfront and a spacious
National Park (see p73), this marina. In summer water sports
town is set dramatically between and trips to the Kornati Islands
the Adriatic and the Velebit are on offer from here. d Map B3
mountains. d Map B2 t Tourist office: t Tourist office: Trg Hrvatskih Velikana 2.
Trg Tome Marasovića 1. 023 369 255 023 383 123. www.tzg-biograd.hr

% Zrmanja Gorge
The spectacular Zrmanja ) Lake Vrana
Situated just outside Biograd
Gorge has been opened up by Na Moru, the largest lake in
regular cruises in season from Croatia is over 13 km (8 miles)
Novigrad. Local operator Flash long. It is connected to the
Touring also runs “canoe safaris” Adriatic via a system of under-
up the gorge. d Map C3 t Flash ground channels and is home to
Touring: 023 375 201 numerous bird species. d Map B4

76 Ask at Šibenik’s Civic Museum (Gradska Vrata 3. 022 213 880)


about visiting the Fort of St Nicholas and St John’s Fortress.
Around Northern Dalmatia
Left Pag Middle Pašman Right Ugljan

Islands
! Kornati Islands
This stunning necklace of ^ Ugljan
The most heavily populated
unspoilt islands is a paradise for Adriatic island is popular with
sailors and day-trippers. For the commuters from Zadar (see
ultimate escape from it all, head pp30–31). Despite this, it retains
for a deserted island for a taste something of an unspoilt feel,
of “Robinson Crusoe tourism” as well as producing some of
(see pp26–7). the country’s finest olive oil.
d Map A3 t Tourist office: 023 288 011.

@ The gateway to the Kornati


Murter www.ugljan.hr

National Park is an island


connected to the mainland by a & STree-cloaked
ilba
Silba has a
bridge. As the main population lived-in feel, unlike that of the
centre, it is the place to come many barren north Dalmatian
for supplies (see p26). d Map B4 islands, as it once stood on key
trading routes. d Map A2 t Tourist

£ Pag
Famed for its eponymous
office: 023 370 010. www.silba.net

sheep’s cheese and the quality


of its lamb, Pag is a notoriously * Zlarin
Visitors to this island can
dry island. Its unforgettable wander around the quiet village
terrain looks like a moonscape of Zlarin after the scenic ferry
and is unlike anywhere else in ride from Šibenik. This is
the Mediterranean. Pag Town a good place to pick up coral
also boasts an interesting old souvenirs before heading back
town (see p37). d Map A2 to the mainland. d Map C4

$ Dugi Otok
Not actually within the Kornati ( Prvić
The island neighbouring
National Park (as some tour Zlarin is the setting for a clutch
operators may tell you), Dugi Otok of attractive villages, an old
is nevertheless a lovely place to church with Baroque altarpieces
spend the day, or to anchor a and a decent beach. d Map C4
yacht for an afternoon. d Map A3

% Connected by a bridge to
Pašman ) IžThis island is a favourite
unspoilt escape for the citizens
Ugljan, this island is home to a of Zadar, from which there is a
couple of modest fishing villages direct ferry. There is little to do
and a Benedictine monastery. here apart from having an amble
There are ferry connections to around the olive groves and a
Biograd Na Moru. d Map B3 swim in the sea. d Map A3

Ask at the tourist office in Šibenik for more information about Zlarin, 77
Iž and Prvić, and in Biograd Na Moru for details on Pašman.
Around Northern Dalmatia

Left Sunset strip, Šibenik Middle Aurora, Primošten Right Maya Pub, Zadar

Cafés, Bars and Nightlife


! Sunset Strip, Šibenik
Relax with a drink by the ^ Gotham, Zadar
This fun-filled nightlife
water’s edge in Šibenik old town. complex, located to the north of
Here you can enjoy the sunset at Zadar’s old town, boasts a club/
one of the sprinkling of outdoor café and cinema, all with a
cafés, as their sound systems Batman theme. d Marka
vie with each other. d Map C4 Oreškovića 1 t Map B3

@ No.4 Club, Šibenik


This city-centre bar specializes & Maya Pub, Zadar
A Balinese decor and lounge
in great cocktails – beware, sounds are the order of the day
though, as they tend to be on in this bright and popular space.
the strong side. Food is on offer Expect surroundings decked out
too, and there is a terrace. d Trg with exotic sculptures and a
Dinka Zvorovića 4 t Map C4 suitably chilled-out clientele.
d Liburnska Obala bb t Map B3

£ Zrće, Novalja, Pag


Although the “Croatian Ibiza”
* The Garden, Zadar
is not on the same scale as the This new arrival, owned by
Spanish original, this is a popular British reggae band UB40’s
party beach. It has three big night- drummer James Brown and Nick
clubs, and many bars and fast-food Colgan, is the place to see and
outlets, all of which help fuel the be seen in Zadar. d Bedemi
summer fun. d Map A2 Zadarskih Pobuna bb t Map B3

$ Saloon, Pag Town, Pag


The former salt warehouse ( Aurora, Primošten
There are three dance floors,
across the bridge from Pag’s a chill-out room, restaurants and
old town is transformed into a even a swimming pool at this
buzzing nightclub in the summer huge out-of-town nightclub
months. It opens its doors nightly complex. Big DJ names to have
during July and August and every featured here include Roger
Friday and Saturday in June and Sanchez and David Morales.
September. d Map A2 d Kamenar bb t Map C4

% Caffè Bar Forum, Zadar


Soak up the view of the ) Club Hacienda, Vodice
The open-air Hacienda Club
Roman remains and spectacular is a big venue in an equally large
ecclesiastical buildings that can resort. It has boasted international
be seen from this friendly café. names such as Benny Benassi
Outdoor tables spread right and the Shapeshifters and
out into the Roman forum in releases its own compilation
summer. d Široka 3 t Map B3 CDs. d Magistrala bb t Map C4

78 In Croatian addresses, “bb” is short for bez broja, meaning


“without number”.
Price Categories
For a three-course K under 100kn
meal for one with half KK 100–150kn
a bottle of wine (or KKK 150–200kn
equivalent meal), taxes KKKK 200–250kn
and extra charges. KKKKK over 250kn

Around Northern Dalmatia


Foša, Zadar

Places to Eat
! Konoba Branimir, Nin
Simple Dalmatian cuisine, a ^ Kornat, Zadar
Kornat’s friendly waiting staff
cosy atmosphere and a small serve up innovative meat and
terrace overlooking the oldest fish dishes in elegant surrounds.
church in Croatia make this rustic There’s a good selection of local
eatery a fine choice. d Višeslavov and imported wines. d Liburnska
Trg 2 t Map B3 t 023 264 866 t KK Obala 6 t Map B3 t 023 254 501 t KKK

@ Restaurant Perin Dvor, Nin


At this friendly restaurant, & Gradska Vjećnica, Šibenik
Most people come here for
close to Nin’s Donji Most (Lower the view as much as the food.
Bridge), you can dine on fresh Dine on shellfish, delicate white
fish and simple Dalmatian grills fish or grilled meat in the shadow
on an attractive garden terrace. of the Cathedral of St James (see
The town’s majorettes cause pp28–9). d Trg Republike Hrvatske 1
a stir from time to time by t Map C4 t 022 213 605 t KKK
practising outside. d Hrvatskog
Sabora 1 t Map B3 t 023 264 307 t KKK
* Tamaris, Dugi Otok
This simple konoba (inn)

£ Konoba “85”, Novalja


Set back from Novalja’s busy
serves grilled meat, and fish
straight from the Adriatic. d Obala
Riva and open year round, this Kralja Tomislava, Sali t Map B3 t 023 377
restaurant serves up first-rate 236 t Closed Nov–Mar t KK
fish dishes and is frequented by
locals. The creamy tagliatelle with
prawns is a must. d Josipa Kunkere ( Hotel Restaurant Biser,
Pag Town, Pag
4 t Map A2 t 053 663 680 t KKK The menu at this award-winning
restaurant includes local delicacies

$ Zlatna Ribica, Brodarica


On Friday and Saturday
such as spit-roast Pag lamb, salty
Paški sir and pršut (see p48).
evenings, live piano music fills Booking essential in high season.
this upmarket fish restaurant (see d Antuna Gustava Matoša 8 t Map A2
p48), which has an adjoining t 023 611 333 t KKKKK
pension. d Krapanjskih Spuzvara 46 t
Map C4 t 022 350 300 t KKKK
) Restoran
Primošten
Dalmacija,

% Foša, Zadar
Fresh fish, and an unbeatable
This old-town restaurant serves
innovative Dalmatian cuisine, with
location just outside Zadar’s dishes like octopus with pineapple
Land Gate, ensure that this local and tuna carpaccio alongside
favourite is always busy (see more simple meat dishes and
p48). d Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2 t Map grills. d Put Murve 15 t Map C4 t 022
B3 t 023 314 421 t KKKK 570 009 t Closed Nov–Mar t KKK

For more restaurant listings See pp48–9, 68, 69, 87, 97 79


Around Central Dalmatia

Left The fish market, housed in a 16th-century loggia, Trogir Old Town Right Gradac

Central Dalmatia

C ENTRAL DALMATIA HAS IT ALL – a large, vibrant city with a Mediterranean


swagger, a wealth of historic towns, and some of the country’s most
popular islands. The city in question, Split, is Croatia’s second biggest, after
Zagreb. It’s also the nation’s busiest ferry hub, making it a great base for
exploring the likes of lavender-infused Hvar, Brač, famous for the marble which
helped build the White House, and remote Vis, many Croats’ favourite Adriatic
island. Traces of the various civilizations that have swept through the region
emerge colourfully, with epic Roman remnants like Diocletian’s Palace in Split
and the ruined town of Salona, while the Venetian empire too has left its mark,
on Trogir, Hvar and Vis. With an increasing number of flights into Split, and
the brand new motorway linking it to Zagreb and
the European road network, this scenically stunning
corner of Croatia seems on an inexorable rise.

Sights
1 Trogir Old Town 6 Gradac
2 Diocletian’s Palace, Split 7 Klis
3 Kaštela 8 Brela
4 Salona 9 Omiš
5 Makarska Riviera 0 Živogošće and Zaostrog

Main Hall, Diocletian’s Palace

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80 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com


! Trogir Old Town
When you’ve
explored the profusion
of churches, palaces and
grand buildings that this

Around Central Dalmatia


perfectly preserved gem
has to offer, relax on the
wide waterfront Riva,
where pavement cafés
and alfresco restaurants Kaštel Lukšić
bubble with activity day
and night (see pp18–19). stretch of beach, pretty Kaštel
Gomilica, Kaštel Kambelovac,

@ Diocletian’s Palace, Split


Make sure to leave plenty of
which boasts a seafood
restaurant, and Kaštel Lukšić,
time to explore and relax in one which has been converted into a
of the most atmospheric city modest gallery and café.
centres in Europe; the warren- d Map D5 t Tourist info: Brce 1, Dvorac
like palace complex can be so Vitturi, Kaštel Lukšić. 021 228 355
captivating that day-trippers
often end up missing their ferry,
or just deciding to stay for an $ Salona
Salona (the name derives
unplanned day or two. The palace from the Latin word for salt)
is not at all what you expect an is the supposed birthplace of
ancient monument to be like; it’s Emperor Diocletian (see p25).
full of life, with people hanging Nowadays it’s just a ruin, with
their washing out of the windows none of the life and energy of
of flats set into its walls, bustling Diocletian’s Palace, but this old
restaurants in lavish courtyards, Roman town just outside Split
and funky bars, where the local does allow visitors to gain an
“beautiful people” (the Spličani insight into ancient Roman life.
are renowned for their beauty, If you can forget the stranglehold
and big model agencies regularly of the surrounding industrial
send scouts here) come to see development, it’s a pretty site,
and be seen (see pp22–3). with mountains to one side and
the Adriatic to the other. The

£ Kaštela
Between Split and Trogir, an
Tusculum is a good place to
begin your exploration. Also
untidy morass of cheap housing look out for the amphitheatre,
and light industry surrounds the the Roman baths, the old Forum,
main road, but by the coast, the the Theatre and the Necropolis
hidden gems of Kaštela await of Manastirine. d Map D5
discovery. The “castles” from
which the area takes its name
date back as far as the 15th
century, when they were built
both as coastal defences and
lavish retreats for the local
nobles; you can walk from one
to the next along the coast. The
highlights are Kaštel Stari (the
oldest), which has a decent Necropolis of Manastirine, Salona

Head to the second floor of Diocletian’s Palace to escape the 81


summer crowds.
the longest on the Croatian
coast. It’s a spectacular spot,
with the Biokovo Mountains
rising to the north and the islands
of Central Dalmatia to the south.
Around Central Dalmatia

There’s plenty of shade to keep


the worst ravages of the summer
sun at bay, as well as a flurry of
campsites and hotels for those
who fancy an extended stay (see
p43). d Map J1 t Tourist info: Stjepana
Radića 1. 021 697 511. www.gradac.hr
Franciscan monastery, Makarska Riviera

% Makarska Riviera & Klis


This hulking fortress
A mecca for Bosnians and complex in the mountains above
citizens of the former Soviet bloc Split enjoys a stunning setting,
countries, this massively popular with impressive views of the
coastal strip south of Split is not city, mountains, sea and islands.
to everyone’s taste. Still, if you The Romans were the first to
can find a quiet stretch of beach, use the site. Later it became a
then it can be a bulwark against the
pleasant place to sit, Ottomans, who finally
gazing out at the captured it in 1537
islands of Brač and after a bitter siege;
Hvar from the shade they held it for more
of the pine trees that than a century, to the
fringe it. The resort of dismay of the residents
Makarska has some of Split. Today, Klis is
interesting old build- justifiably famed for a
ings and a lively bustle The Fortress of Klis trio of roadside
of bars, cafés and restaurants specializing
restaurants. d Map F5 t Tourist info: in spit-roasted lamb. d Map D5 t
Obala Kralja Tomislava 16. 021 612 002. Tourist info: Megdan 57. 021 240 578.
www.makarska-info.hr

^ Gradac * Brela
Travelling south from Split,
Gradac is best known for its this is the first resort you come
beach, which at 6 km (4 miles) is to on the Makarska Riviera,
and one of the nicest spots to
Language and Nationhood while away a day or two just
Under French rule (1806–13), relaxing by the sea. Brela is a
Croatian became the “official” pleasant town with a gaggle of
language of Dalmatia, but when old stone houses and a few
the Austrians took over in 1813, modern hotels and restaurants,
they re-introduced Italian as the but it’s the beach that people
language of public life – an come for – a tree-shrouded
important spur for the growth of sinew of pebble and shingle
Croatian nationalism. In 1865,
that curls around the coast
Makarska became one of the
first communes to bring back north of the town. d Map E5 t Tourist
Croatian as its official language. info: Trg A. Stepinca bb. 021 618 455.
www.brela.hr

82 In Croatian addresses, “bb” is short for bez broja, meaning


“without number”.
( Omiš
Set at the point where the
Island-hopping
Cetina river emerges from its Morning
rugged gorge to discharge into During high season, a
the Adriatic, Omiš is a good base number of companies

Around Central Dalmatia


for rafting trips (see p44), and a operate hydrofoils that
help the big Jadrolinija
convenient jumping-off point for ferries (see p103) transport
the gorge and its enjoyable fish passengers around the
restaurants. Once a notorious central Dalmatian islands,
pirate bolthole, these days Omiš making it possible to spend
is a largely modern town, although a long day island-hopping.
it does have a small historic Start the day with a light
quarter, and there are some breakfast at one of the
atmospheric old fortifications in small quayside cafés near
the hills above the town. d Map the ferry terminal in Split
E5 t Tourist info: Trg Kneza Miroslava bb. before heading out on the
first Jadrolinija ferry to Vis
021 861 350. www.tz-omis.hr
(see p84). After a stroll
around Vis Town’s water-

) Živogošće and Zaostrog


At the southern end of the
front, head for the Venetian-
style Kut district (see p37)
in time for lunch at one of
Makarska Riviera is the small
its excellent restaurants
resort of Živogošće. The oldest (see pp48, 87). Head back
settlement on this stretch of the to the ferry terminal and
coastline, it is home to a 17th- catch a fast ferry to Hvar
century Franciscan monastery Town (see p36). If you’ve
with an impressive Baroque altar overindulged, you can
work off lunch with a brisk
and a renowned library whose hike up to the fortress
holdings shed light on life during above the town.
the Ottoman occupation of the
region. Slightly further south is Afternoon
Zaostrog, home to an older (14th- Time now for the last island
century) Franciscan monastery, of the day, so head by
hydrofoil to the resort of
an attractive site with a small art
Bol on the island of Brač
gallery and folk museum. d Map (see p84), home to Croatia’s
H1 t Tourist info: Živogošće bb. 021 605 most famous beach, Zlatni
069. www.zivogosce.hr Rat (see p42). If the fancy
takes you, you could relax
and spend the night here.
Otherwise, head back to
Split – either from Bol, or
from the port of Supetar on
the other side of the island,
where Jadrolinija ferries
run till late.

Note: sailing schedules are


liable to change as often as
the unpredictable Adriatic
winds, so this itinerary
should be carefully
planned. Check timetables
at the ferry terminal in Split,
or at the kiosks at the
southern end of the Riva.
Franciscan monastery, Zaostrog

When travelling by ferry, take plenty of sunscreen if you plan on 83


sitting or standing outside for any length of time.
Around Central Dalmatia

Left Hvar Middle Vis Right Brač

Islands
! Biševo
This isle off Vis is home to ^ Pakleni Islands
The “Islands of Hell”are,
the famed Blue Grotto, with its contrary to what their name
stunning visual play of water and suggests, simple rustic places.
light. Boat trips operate from They are great for getting
Komiža. d Map C6 t Tourist office: Riva away from the glitz and weight
Sv Mikule 2, Komiža t 021 713 455 of history of Hvar Town and
spending a day sunbathing and

@ Hvar
One of the sunniest Adriatic
swimming (see p42).

islands is cloaked by an aromatic


blanket of lavender and other wild & Drvenik Mali
“Small Drvenik” has a
herbs. The highlight of this long, pleasant bay, where those
sinewy isle is Hvar Town (see looking to escape the heat of
p36). d Map D6 t Tourist office: Trg Svetog Trogir in summer can chill out for
Stjepana t 021 741 059 t www.tzhvar.hr a while, but there are few
facilities. d Map C5

£ Vis
Once an off-limits military
* Drvenik Veli
base, this rugged and unspoilt “Big Drvenik” offers an
island is popular with Croats and, agreeable town of the same
increasingly, tourists too. name, which welcomes visiting
Charming Vis Town lies across yachts and has a couple of
the hills from Komiža. d Map D6 pensions and fish restaurants.
t Tourist office: Šetalište Stare Isse 5, Vis Other parts of the island offer
Town t 021 717 017 t www.tz-vis.hr good swimming. d Map D5

$ Brač
Marble from this mountainous ( Čiovo
This island is joined by a
island just off Split was used for bridge to Trogir (see p81). The
Diocletian’s Palace, the Hungarian views back from Čiovo to Trogir’s
Parliament and the White House old town are worth the walk
in Washington DC. Brač also alone. There is a marina and
boasts Croatia’s most famous also a sprinkling of places to
beach, Zlatni Rat (see p42). d Map eat and drink. d Map D5
E5 t Tourist office: Porat Bolskih Pomoraca
bb, Bol ttXXXCPMIS
) Šćedro
This sparsely populated island

% Šolta
This often overlooked island,
near Hvar offers some attractive
beaches, as well as a ruined
located right next to Split, is Roman villa in Rake Bay and the
well worth a day trip, if not an remains of a Dominican
overnight stay. d Map D5 monastery in Mostir Bay. d Map G1

84 Ferries link Split to Šolta, and Trogir to Drvenik Mali and Veli.
Water taxis go to the Pakleni Islands and Šćedro from Hvar Town.
Around Central Dalmatia
Cetina Gorge

Inland Excursions
! Sinj
A historic mountain town with ^ Mosor
A mountain range extending
some interesting churches, on the between Klis and Omiš, Mosor
first Sunday in August annually, attractively frames the Cetina
Sinj hosts the massively popular river and a number of small
Sinjska Alka medieval festival villages. Explore it by car, or join
(which bears some similarities to the Croatian climbers tackling
Siena’s famous Palio). d Map E4 the barren Mosor Mountain.
t Tourist office: Vrlička 50 t 021 826 352 d Map E5

@ Plitvice Lakes
The UNESCO World Heritage & Red Lake (Crveno Jezero)
You cannot see this 300-m
listed Plitvice Lakes are an oasis (1,000-ft) wide lake near Imotski
of limestone pools, lakes and from afar, as it lies tucked away in
waterfalls that lie within a well an inaccessible pit. The strange
organized national park. d Map B1 ochre hue its waters take on
t 053 751 015 t www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr comes from the surrounding
t Open 7:30am–8pm daily t Adm charge landscape. d Map F5

£ Cetina Gorge
This starkly beautiful gorge * Blue Lake (Modro Jezero)
It is possible to get down
cuts through the heart of Central to water level at this pit lake,
Dalmatia, before a rendezvous which takes on a contrasting
with the Adriatic at Omiš. It is colour to its sibling, the Red
increasingly popular with rafters, Lake. In summer, low waters
who often start near the town of reveal bizarre rock formations at
Penšići. Foodies savour its fish this spooky place. d Map F5
restaurants. d Map E4

$ Near the village of Zadvarje,


Gubavica Falls ( Mostar
This Bosnian city has a
famous bridge linking its two
to the north of Omiš, the Cetina sides, over the Neretva river
river plunges dramatically almost (see p67). d off map t Tourist office:
50 m (165 ft) through the karst 387 (0)36 580 275
landscape. d Map E5

% This village is a good spot


Zadvarje ) Livno
A southern Bosnian town,
just across the Croatian border,
for appreciating the beauty of Livno is renowned for its tasty
the Cetina Gorge. From the cliffs cheese, which is very inexpen-
around here the waterfalls look sive to buy here, though be
particularly impressive after aware that it is unpasteurized.
heavy rain. d Map E5 d .BQ&t www.bhtourism.ba

Visitors to Croatia from Europe, the USA, Australia and New 85


Zealand do not currently need visas to enter Bosnia or Montenegro.
Around Central Dalmatia

Bačvice, Split

Cafés, Bars and Nightlife


! Vidilica, Split
Sweeping views of the city ^ Smokvica, Trogir
This café-bar in the shadow
and its busy port are to be had of the cathedral opens at 7am
from this café on the Marjan for espresso and keeps going till
hillside. It is worth the hike up the small hours, by which time
on a sunny day just to sit back it has metamorphosed into a
with a cold drink and take in the buzzing live-music venue with
scene. d Nazorov Prilaz 1 • Map P5 an extensive cocktail menu.
d Radovanov Trg 9 • Map D5

@ Puls 2, Split
This perennially popular bar
& Art Café, Makarska
has a great location at the heart It would be worth coming to
of Diocletian’s Palace. In summer Makarska just to visit this bar – a
there are cute low outdoor tables chic and classy place that spills
and chairs. Loud music fills the out into an attractive courtyard.
dark interior. d Buvinina 1 • Map P2 d Don Mihovila Pavlinovića 1 • Map F5

£ Bačvice, Split
Located south of the centre * Venerada, Hvar Town
This summer venue has an
of Split, this massively popular open-air cinema and various club
modern nightlife complex is set nights. It is located on the hill
on the bay of the same name. behind the Delfin Hotel. Keep
There’s a multitude of bars, cafés, your eyes peeled for adverts for
restaurants and nightclubs to it around town. d Map D6
choose from. Great fun on a hot
summer evening. d Map Q6
( Carpe Diem, Hvar Town
Hvar Town boasts this ultra-

$ Ghetto Club, Split


This retreat of the local
cool Ibiza-style cocktail bar that
pumps out mellow tunes through
cognoscenti gets few tourists as to the early hours of the morning.
it is on the often-ignored upper Watch from the summer terrace
level of the Diocletian’s Palace. as yachts cruise in and out of the
It has a busy bar and a spacious harbour. d Riva bb • Map D6
courtyard for summer use.
d Dosud 10 • Map P2
) Faces Club, Bol, Brač
Near the resort of Bol, one

% F1, Trogir
This big and highly popular
of the best beaches in Croatia
(see p42) is complemented by
dance-music orientated nightclub one of the country’s largest
draws in the crowds from Trogir, outdoor discos. This is what
5 km (3 miles) away, and Split, happens when Split’s trendy
20 km (12 miles) away. d Junction Masters Club branches out onto
of Magistrala and airport road • Map D5 the island of Brač. d Map E5

86 Recommend your favourite bar on traveldk.com


Price Categories
For a three course K under 100kn
meal for one with half KK 100–150kn
a bottle of wine (or KKK 150–200kn
equivalent meal), taxes KKKK 200–250kn
and extra charges. KKKKK over 250kn

Around Central Dalmatia


Nostromo, Split

Places to Eat
! Stellon, Split
A funky favourite with 20- and ^ Macondo, Hvar Town
This top-quality seafood
30-somethings out at Bačvice, restaurant in Hvar’s old town is
Stellon offers delicious seafood, no longer a local secret – so book
meat dishes and pizzas, tempting ahead. Prices are suitably steep.
drinks, and wonderful sea views In summer you can eat outside.
(see p48). d Bačvice bb t Map Q6 d Groda bb t Map D6 t 021 742 850
t 021 347 932 t KK t KKKK

@ Nostromo, Split
Right by the fish market is & Palača Paladini, Hvar Town
Tuck into delicious grilled fish
this trim seafood restaurant. Sit and meat dishes in a courtyard
upstairs and you can watch as the full of orange trees. Smooth ser-
ultra-fresh seafood for your platter vice and good vegetarian food are
is grilled (see p48). d Kraj Sv Marije other plus points. d Petra Hektoroviča
10 t Map N2 t 091 405 6666 t KKKK 4 t Map D6 t 021 742 104 t KKK

£ Šumica, Split
A favourite with besuited * Vila Kaliopa, Vis Town
A treat is in store for diners
business types, this classy joint at this simply divine restaurant.
is set in woodland near the Top-notch seafood is served in a
Adriatic. It produces both meat sculpture-laden garden in the Kut
and seafood dishes, with panache. district of Vis Town (see p48).
There is an outdoor terrace. d Put d Nazora 32 t Map D6 t 091 271 1755 t
Firula 6 t Map Q6 t 021 389 897 t KKKK Closed Nov–Feb t KKKKK

$ Restoran Fontana, Trogir


Trogir old town’s best hotel ( Restoran Pojoda, Vis Town
This upmarket restaurant,
has a great restaurant with a with an ornate courtyard, charges
terrace where diners can absorb by the kilo for top-class fish. The
the atmosphere of the Riva (see fine food comes with a wine list
p49). Unlike many places in and service to match. d Don
town, it is open all year. d Obrov 1 Cvjetka Marasovića 8 t Map D6 t 021
t Map D5 t 021 884 811 t KKK 711 575 t KKKKK

% Restoran Monika, Trogir


Set within its own courtyard ) Taverna Riva, Bol, Brač
You will find this friendly
in Trogir’s old town, Monika is an waterfront restaurant between
atmospheric dining choice. Grilled the old town and Zlatni Rat
seafood is the speciality, and the beach, near where the fast ferries
place is packed out in high season. come in. Dalmatian specialities.
d Budislaviceva 12 t Map D5 t 021 884 d Radica Frane 5 (Riva) t Map E5 t 021
808 t Closed late Dec–Mar t KKK 635 236 t Closed Nov–Dec t KK

For more restaurant listings See pp48–9, 68, 69, 79, 97 87


Around Southern Dalmatia

Left Pelješac vineyards Right Konavle

Southern Dalmatia

D ESPITE THE POPULARITY of its most famous city, Dubrovnik, Southern


Dalmatia remains relatively unexplored – and perhaps for that reason,
unspoilt. Much of its appeal lies in the great diversity of the natural landscape,
with pristine beaches, sheer cliffs, fertile farmland, dense forests, rolling hills
and dramatic mountains all packed into a narrow and easily navigable strip
of land. The Adriatic is never far away – generous provider of the top-quality
seafood which can be served in even the most humble konoba (taverna),
where you may also sample one of the excellent local wines from the vineyards
of the Pelješac Peninsula. And when you think you’ve seen it all, it’s easy to
launch off into neighbouring Bosnia-Herzegovina or Montenegro.

Sights
1 Neretva Delta
2 Orebić
3 Korčula Town
4 Pelješac Vineyards
5 Ston
6 Mali Ston
7 Trsteno Arboretum
8 Mljet National Park
9 Cavtat
0 Konavle

Pebble beach, Orebić

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90 Preceding pages Belltower of the Franciscan monastery, Dubrovnik,


seen through the colonnade of the Romanesque cloisters
! Neretva Delta
On its journey to the sea, the
Neretva river fans out to create
the lush, water-drenched land-
scape of the Neretva Delta. This

Around Southern Dalmaia


200-sq-km (77-sq-mile) expanse
is partially navigable by boat, and
can also be explored by car. Not
only is the delta vital to Croatian
agriculture, it provides a sanctuary
for the myriad species of bird that
stop off here as they migrate
south to Africa. Many fish inhabit
this angler’s paradise, including
eels and an indigenous species Korčula Town
of trout. The Atlas Travel Agency
organize visits from Dubrovnik.
d Map J1 t Atlas Travel Agency: 0800 442 $ Pelješac Vineyards
Many people treat the
222. www.atlas-croatia.com Pelješac Peninsula as little more
than a quick route from Dubrovnik

@ Orebić
This small seaside town on
to Korčula Town. In doing so, they
miss an opportunity to explore the
the Pelješac Peninsula has been vineyards that produce what is
quietly luring visitors for decades, arguably Croatia’s best red wine,
with its idyllic location, long, Dingač. A guided tour is a simple
sun-drenched pebble beaches, way of rectifying this oversight;
laid-back cafés and high-quality Atlas’s Dubrovnik-based excursion
restaurants. Orebić has takes in three cellars in the
undergone something of a villages of Potomje and Prizdrina.
transformation, with luxurious From Potomje, tunnels bored into
apartments springing up as an the Pelješac mountains lead to
alternative to the resort quiet beaches. d Map J2
hotels nearby, and real-
estate agents moving in
to snare those tempted % Ston
The Republic of
to stay. d Map H1 t Tourist Ragusa (see pp8–9) left
info: Trg Mimbelli bb. 020 713 an enduring reminder of
718. www.tz-orebic.com its presence in Ston. The
14th-century fortifications,

£ Korčula Town
The historic core of
erected to guard against
attack by sea, resemble a
Korčula Town is one of 14th-century miniature Great Wall of
Dalmatia’s most dramatic fortifications, Ston China. Today’s relaxed
set-pieces. For the visitor, pace of life is a far cry
it offers attractive architecture, from the days when Ston was
fine restaurants and tranquil the second most powerful centre
waterside cafés from which to in the Republic. Other attractions
admire dazzling sunsets. The include salt pans, and stunning
town is also something of an views of the Dinaric Mountains
activity centre, with wind-surfing, and the vaulting peaks of Bosnia.
yachting and diving all popular d Map J2 t Tourist info: Pelješki Put 1.
watersports (see pp16–17). 020 754 452. www.ston.hr

In Croatian addresses, “bb” is short for bez broja, meaning 91


“without number”.
Marco Polo of trees and plants from around
The island of Korčula is alleged the world tumbles towards the
by some to be the birthplace of Adriatic, with fine views of
legendary explorer Marco Polo – a Trsteno harbour and the Elafiti
claim hotly disputed by both Islands beyond. Highlights of this
Around Southern Dalmatia

Venice and Genoa. There is tranquil oasis 20 km (12 miles)


evidence to suggest that he at northwest of Dubrovnik include
least visited Korčula Town, so the a 500-year-old plane tree, a water
idea may not be total fantasy –
garden whose ornate fountain
something the locals have seized
upon, with “Marco Polo’s House” depicts Neptune surrounded
now open as a museum. by nymphs, and an aqueduct.
d Potok 20, Trsteno t.BQ,t
 t0QFO.BZo0DUBNoQNEBJMZ

^ Mali Ston
A short walk north of Ston is
/PWo"QSBNoQNEBJMZ t"ENDIBSHF

its smaller sibling, Mali Ston.


Gastronomes from all over Croatia
and Italy flock to “Little Ston” to
savour the finest fresh fish, with
shellfish plucked straight from
the Stonski Channel a highlight
on any menu. The scenery is as
spectacular as the seafood, and
it is perhaps unsurprising that
this idyllic waterside spot with
its aphrodisiac oysters has Fountain of Neptune, Trsteno Arboretum
become a popular haunt with
amorous Croatian weekend-
breakers. Some of the restaurants * Mljet National Park
The western corner of Mljet
have rooms – which at least was designated a National Park
helps prevent arguments about in 1960, in a bid to conserve the
who is going to drive. d Map K2 island’s holm oak and Aleppo
pine forests. Among the main

& Trsteno Arboretum


At the beginning of the 16th
attractions are the interconnected
saltwater lakes, Veliko Jezero
century, the Gučetić family sowed (“Great Lake”) and Malo Jezero
the seeds of what has since (“Small Lake”). The former is
become one of Europe’s most home to the striking and
impressive arboretums. Making frequently remodelled 12th-
the most of its dramatic seaside century Monastery of St Mary,
setting, this expansive collection which dominates the eponymous
Sveta Marija Island.
Another highlight is the
small village of Polače,
with its Roman ruins
and dramatic setting
astride Mljet’s most
attractive harbour.
d 1SJTUBOJÝUF 
GoveđBSJt Map J2 t
 tXXXOQNMKFUISt"EN
Mijet National Park DIBSHFDIJMESFOGSFF

92 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com


( Cavtat
This resort was first settled
A Drive Along the
in the 3rd century BC, and it still Pelješac Peninsula
bears the marks of the Illyrians, Morning
Greeks, Romans and Slavs who Forty-five minutes north of

Around Southern Dalmaia


occupied it at one time or Dubrovnik on the Adriatic
another. Look out for the 16th- Highway (a scenic though
frustrating drive), a sign-
century Rector’s Palace, and a
posted left turn leads onto
mausoleum by Ivan Meštrović the mountainous Pelješac
commissioned by the wealthy Peninsula; the town of Mali
Račić family. Also worth a visit is Ston is a short distance
the Vlaho Bukovac Gallery, further on. Time your arrival
for a first-class early lunch
dedicated to the memory of one
of oysters and fresh fish in
of Croatia’s most famous the wonderful Vila Koruna
painters. d .BQ-t7MBIP#VLPWBD (TFFQ
. After lunch,
(BMMFSZ7MBIF#VLPWDB make the short journey to
4VNNFSBNoQN oQN5VFo4VO Mali Ston’s sibling, Ston,
and explore its rugged old
XJOUFSBNoQN oQN5VFo4BU 
walls (currently being
oQN4VO"ENDIBSHF considered for inclusion on
UNESCO’s World Heritage
list). Back in the car, follow
the main road as it heads
inland, emerging after half
an hour or so by the Malo
More (“Small Sea”) on the
northeast coast of the
peninsula. Make a brief
pit-stop at the Beach Bar
TFFQ
, with its great
waterside location.
Afternoon
Back on the main road,
Janjina TFFQ
, a little
further on, is a good place
Vlaho Bukovac (1855–1922), self-portrait
to pull up and buy home-
produced wine; just look

) Konavle
The dramatic landscape of
out for signs. Alternatively,
continue on the same route
until you reach Potomje,
this narrow strip of land extending
the home of Croatia’s best
from Cavtat down to Kotor Bay in
red wine, Dingač. Some of
Montenegro is characterized by the cellars here welcome
harsh karst rock, verdant forests visitors (but remember that
and sheer cliffs. An exploration Croatian law prohibits
of the area turns up ancient burial drivers from consuming any
cairns, ruined fortresses, the alcohol). Continue northwest
to the low-key resort of
remnants of a Roman aqueduct, Orebić, whose beaches and
and hills studded with vines and scenic location merit an
olive groves. Less obvious to overnight stay; or take a car
casual visitors is the destruction ferry across the Pelješki
wreaked during the war of the Kanal to Korčula Town (see
QQo
and spend the
early 1990s, when many of the night there. If you have to
area’s villages were decimated. get back to Dubrovnik, it‘s
Organized “safaris” are a good only a two-hour drive away.
option TFFQ
. d .BQ-

93
Around Southern Dalmatia

Left Bust of Roman emperor Vespasian at Vid’s museum Right Janjina

Best of the Rest


! Viganj
This small settlement with ^ Baćina Lakes
These six interlinked fresh-
a 17th-century Dominican mona- water lakes just north of Ploče are
stery unfolds around the Bay of an impressive sight. Surrounded
Viganj, backed by the Pelješac by lush vegetation, they provide
mountains and looking out to the a habitat for a plethora of fish
island of Korčula. Windsurfers and bird species. d Map J1
flock to this picturesque spot for
its windswept beaches. d Map H1
& Kula Norinska
Dating from the 16th century,

@ Vid
Inhabited by both Greeks
this seven-storey cylindrical tower
at the junction of the Norin
and Romans, Vid thrived as a and Neretva rivers has formerly
trading post between the islands served as both a military lookout
and the hinterland until the 7th and a windmill. d Map J1
century AD. View the remains of
Roman Narona around the town
and at Vid’s museum. d Map J1 * Trpanj
The Pelješac Peninsula’s
north coast is the picturesque

£ Čilipi
With regular folk events and
setting for a small resort with
a pebble beach and a cluster of
an ethnographic museum, Čilipi is pavement cafés. Trpanj affords
on the tour circuit from Dubrovnik. sweeping views across Malo
On Sundays during high season More towards the hulking
the presence of performers in Biokovo Mountains. d Map H1
traditional costumes brightens t Tourist office: Žalo 7 t 020 743 433
up the main square. d Map L3

$ Orašac ( Trstenik
On the west coast of the
This pleasant village 15 km Pelješac Peninsula you can visit
(9 miles) north of Dubrovnik has relaxed Trstenik, with old stone
a fine 15th-century church and a houses and a sheltered harbour.
palatial 16th-century villa. Its small Protected by the hills that rear
marina and decent beach face up behind it, the village has
the Elafiti Islands. d Map K2 seaward views of Mljet and
Lastovo. d Map J2

% Lumbarda
Located to the east of Korčula
) Janjina
Town, this pretty settlement lures This compact village, with an
visitors with its sandy beaches ornate church, tumbles down the
(see p43) and secluded coves, Pelješac hillside towards the sea.
as well as the water sports on It’s a great place to pick up wine
offer in summer. d Map H2 from local vineyards. d Map J2

94 The Dubrovačko-Neretvanska Country Tourist Board can provide


more details on these sights: Vukovarska 24, Dubrovnik, 020 324 999.
Around Southern Dalmatia
Left Badija Right Koločep

Islands
! Lokrum
The most southerly of the ^ Sušac
A tiny island near Lastovo,
Elafiti Islands, this tree-shrouded, Sušac is accessible by private
beach-fringed nature reserve is a boat. Its 19th-century lighthouse,
perfect day-trip from Dubrovnik. which offers inspirational views,
It is home to the Natural History can be rented out (see p115).
Museum, set in the cloister of a Snorkelling and scuba diving
ruined 10th-century Benedictine options are good. d Map K2
monastery. d Map L3

@ One of the Elafiti Islands,


Koločep & Korčula
Perhaps the most interesting
of the southern Dalmatian islands
Koločep’s main attraction is a boasts the gem of Korčula Town
sandy beach that is seldom as (see pp16–17), vineyards and
crowded as Dubrovnik’s, a short beaches. d Map H1
ferry ride away. There are two
small villages to explore, as well
as the dense woods that cover * Badija
Just off Korčula – and reached
most of the island. d Map K2 by taxi boat – is this small island,
home to a community of

£ Lopud
Once a populous stronghold
Franciscan monks. The Franciscan
church and monastery are both
of the Republic of Ragusa, Lopud well preserved and make a
now enjoys a peaceful retirement. striking sight by the sea. d Map H1
An old monastery, churches and
a choice of beaches make this
Elafiti island worth a visit. d Map K2 ( Majsan
Even smaller than Badija is
Majsan, which is also reached by

$ This is the largest of the


Šipan taxi boat from Korčula Town. The
relics on this island include the
Elafiti islands and the richest in remains of a Roman settlement
monuments such as churches and the ruined medieval church
and fortresses. d Map K2 of St Maximus. d Map H1

% Lastovo
A remote and little-developed ) Palagruža
This slip of land extends out
island, Lastovo is a relaxed place into the Adriatic to the very edge
where you can escape the tourist of Croatian territorial waters. The
throngs. Lastovo Town is unusual 100-m- (330-ft-) tall lighthouse,
in that it turns its back on the offering Robinson Crusoe breaks
sea. d Map G2 t Tourist office: Pjevor (see p115), is a rare feature on
bb, Lastovo Town t 020 801 018 an island that has to be reached
t www.lastovo.hr by private boat. d off map

Tour boats leave Dubrovnik for Lokrum, Korčula and the Elafiti 95
Islands, and Split for Lastovo and Korčula.
Around Southern Dalmatia

Left Massimo, Korčula Town Middle Konoba Marko Polo, Korčula Right Waterfront, Orebić

Cafés, Bars & Nightlife


!Beach Café, near Lumbarda ^ Hotel Korčula,
Korčula Town
The sandy beach of Pržina,
south of Lumbarda, has a This terrace café overlooking
modest café-bar that makes a Korčula Town’s old port is a great
perfect spot to relax in between place to enjoy a coffee while
dips in the Adriatic, which you take in the passing scene.
tempts nearby. d Map H2 d Obala bb (west harbour) t Map H1

@ Mamilo, Lastovo Town


You will find Lastovo Town’s & Konoba Marko Polo,
Korčula Town
only year-round café-bar on a hill With tables at the edge of the
just behind the town. The friendly old town, from which views of
owner usually keeps it open until the mountains and the Pelješki
his last customer leaves. d Map G2 Channel open up, this is a superb
haunt. It is a restaurant, but

£ Riva, Cavtat
While away a pleasant hour
you can drift in for a few drinks.
d Šetalište Petra Kanavelića bb t Map H1
or so at one of the café-bars on
Cavtat’s waterfront, taking in the
distinctly Mediterranean ambience * Bella Vista,
Pelješac Peninsula
and the views over the bay and All the buses between Dubrovnik
offshore islands. d Map L3 and Korčula call here for a rest
stop – and, if driving, you should

$ Massimo, Korčula Town


Perched atop one of the
too. Swathes of the Pelješac
Peninsula can be admired from
town’s defensive bastions, this the terrace. d Sveti Križa 104 t Map J2
popular summer bar comes
complete with a unique pulley
system for drinks. You can ( Beach Bar,
Pelješac Peninsula
appreciate the sunset, as the This slightly kitsch beach bar,
swallows swirl on the skyline. with palm trees, a thatched roof
Food is served downstairs. d and gaudy signs, is a good place
Šetalište Petra Kanavelića bb t Map H1 to stop for a cool drink as you
traverse the Pelješac Peninsula.

% Fresh, Korčula Town


The old part of Korčula Town
It is located between Drače and
Janjina (see p94). d Map J2
can be pretty quiet late at night,
but this is one of the livelier bars.
Located by the bus station, it ) Waterfront, Orebić
After a day relaxing on one
attracts local teenagers and of Dalmatia’s best beaches (see
visitors looking for some late- p42), unwind further in one of
night action outside their hotels. Orebić’s waterfront cafés, with
d Šetalište Frana Kršinića bb t Map H1 great views of Korčula. d Map H1

96 In Croatian addresses, “bb” is short for bez broja, meaning


“without number”.
Price Categories
For a three-course K under 100kn
meal for one with half KK 100–150kn
a bottle of wine (or KKK 150–200kn
equivalent meal), taxes KKKK 200–250kn
and extra charges. KKKKK over 250kn

Around Southern Dalmatia


Kolona, Cavtat

Restaurants
!Vila Koruna, Mali Ston
Arguably the best choice in a ^ Konoba Bačvara,
Lastovo Town
small town that boasts a number Set in a traditional stone house
of first-class fish restaurants, at the heart of town, this cosy
Vila Koruna is a must for seafood konoba (inn) serves fish and
lovers – and lovers in general regional staples. d Počivalo bb t Map
(see pp48, 113). d Pelješkiput 1 t G2 t 020 801 131 t Closed Jan–May t KK
Map K2 t 020 754 999 t KK

@ Kapetanova Kuća, & Ogigija, Mljet


As you might expect, the
Mali Ston emphasis at this pension and
Another popular Mali Ston eatery, restaurant, with a large terrace
Kapetanova Kuća serves up looking out over the sea, is on
mussels plucked straight from the fish. d Polače 17 t Map J2 t 098 606
Malostonski Channel, fish grills 863 t Closed Oct–Apr t KKK
and Pelješac wine. The squid-ink
risotto is divine. d Obala Marsala
Tita 9 t Map K2 t 020 754 264 t KKKK * Kolona, Cavtat
Kolona charms with its
raised sea-view terrace, grilled

£ This popular seafood rest-


Adio Mare, Korčula Town fish and attentive service.
Innovative dishes, such as raw
aurant in the old town is a lively swordfish drizzled in lemon, have
place to eat on a summer night. crept onto to a largely Dalmatian
Grilled fish is the speciality (see menu. d Put Tihe 2 t Map L3 t 020
p48). d Svetog Roka 2 t Map H1 t 020 478 269 t Closed Nov–Apr t KKK
711 253 t Closed lunch, Nov–Apr t KKK

$ This waterfront restaurant


Amfora, Orebić ( Orsan, Zaton
A short drive to the north out
of Dubrovnik brings you to this
serves good-value Dalmatian food: excellent little restaurant. Savour
huge plates of risotto, fish and quality fresh seafood right by the
shellfish, as well as Balkan grills Adriatic on their terrace, which
like čevapčići (spicy meatballs). is something of a local favourite.
d Kneza Domagoja 6 t Map H1 t 020 713 d Štikovica 43 t Map K2 t 020 891 267
779 t Closed Nov–Apr t KK t Closed Dec–Mar t KKKK

% Mlinica Taverna, Orebić


This rustic restaurant set in ) Konoba Zure, Lumbarda
This rustic, family-run konoba
a former mill has a Dalmatian offers delicious seafood dishes –
menu. It fills up with tour groups try the brodetto (Dalmatian fish
in July and August, so try to visit stew), the stewed octopus and
at other times. d Obala Pomoraca the shellfish risotto. d Lumbarda
bb t Map H1 t 020 713 886 t KK 239 t Map H2 t 020 712 008 t KKK

For more restaurant listings See pp48–9, 68, 69, 79, 87 97


STREETSMART
General Information
100
Planning Your Trip

TOP 10 OF DUBROVNIK & THE DALMATIAN COAST


101
Special Concerns
102
Getting to and Around
Dalmatia
103
Security & Health
104
Banking &
Communications
105
Eating, Drinking &
Shopping Tips
106
Dalmatia on a Budget
107
Things to Avoid
108
Accommodation Tips
109
Places to Stay
110–117
Streetsmart

An outdoor religious event in Split

General Information
!Language
Croatian grammar $ Time Differences
Croatia is in the
2010. Prime Minister Ivo
Sanader and the HDZ
is complex. The key to Central European Time (Croatian Democratic
good pronunciation is to Zone, which operates on Union) have been in power
master the letter sounds, GMT plus one hour. For since 2003.
including the accented č, daylight saving, clocks are
ć, ž, š, dž and đ (see
p126). Every letter is
put back an hour at the
end of March and forward * Economy
Agriculture, food
pronounced, and the an hour in late October. production, manufacturing
emphasis is almost Croatia is one hour ahead (textiles, timber, metal-
always on the first of the UK, six to nine working and electrical),
syllable. English, Italian hours ahead of the USA chemical industries,
and German are widely and seven to nine hours shipping and tourism are
understood in Dalmatia, behind Australia. all vital components of
but you will find that any the Croatian economy.
efforts to speak Croatian
will be appreciated. % Tourist Radio
During the tourist
The country has seen
considerable foreign
season, Hrvatska Radio investment, and has
Electricity Televizija (HRT) broadcasts increased its exports to
@ and Water a limited radio news the West. One black
Croatia is on 220V/50 bulletin in English and cloud is a high level
cycles and standard plugs German. HR2 has an of unemployment (around
are of the European two- hourly traffic bulletin, also 15%). Croatia is in
pin, round-pronged type. in English and German. negotiation to become a
Bottled mineral water has Check frequencies locally member of the European
become fashionable in as they vary. Union.
Dalmatia, but tap water
is usually safe to drink.
Dalmatians claim that the ^ Further Reading
The following books ( Religion
Surveys suggest that
water from lakes and are useful sources on almost 90 per cent of
streams is clean and free Croatia’s recent history: Croats are Roman
of bacteria, but it is Marcus Tanner’s Croatia: Catholic, just under 5 per
sensible to purify it. A Nation Forged in War, cent are Serb Orthodox,
Slavenka Drakulić’s Balkan and around 1 per cent
£ Opening Hours
Opening hours vary
Express: Fragments from
the Other Side of War
are Muslim.

widely, but in general


business is conducted
and Stipe Mesić’s The
Demise of Yugoslavia: A ) Society
Culture
and

from 8am to 4pm Political Memoir. Dalmatians are passionate


Monday to Friday. Banks about food and fashion
open from 8am to 7pm.
Post offices serve & Government
Croatia has a multi-
and express forthright
opinions. A strong national
customers from 8am to party parliamentary consciousness reveals
8pm during the week and system, with separate itself in folkloric traditions,
also from 8am to 1pm on legislative and executive particularly in Čilipi (see
Saturdays. Café-bars functions. The country’s p94) and Korčula Town
generally open daily at first democratically (see pp16–17). In this
7am and close at 11pm, elected president, Stjepan Catholic society there
although some keep later Mesić, is currently serving are some conservative
hours. Most restaurants a second term in office; attitudes to divorce and
also stay open until 11pm. elections take place in homosexuality.

100 Preceding pages The Stradun, Dubrovnik


Streetsmart
Left Tourist information office Right The beach, where many Croatians head on public holidays

Planning Your Trip


!Insurance
A travel insurance
office, though these may
be closed out of season.
can be taken into Croatia.
HRK15,000 can also be
policy covering delays, d Croatian National Tourist brought into or taken out
cancellations, baggage Board: www.croatia.hr of the country. Foreign
loss or damage, illness, currency is not restricted,
accidents and legal costs
is essential. Terms and % Passports
and Visas
but sums over HRK40,000
in value must be declared.
conditions vary between A valid passport or
policies; winter sports
options and expensive
national identity card is
required to enter Croatia. * Public Holidays
1 Jan, 6 Jan, Easter
equipment often incur Visitors from Australia, Sunday and Monday,
an extra premium. New Zealand, Japan, 1 May, Corpus Christi
North America, South (May/Jun), 22 Jun, 25
@ When to Go
Dalmatia basks in an
America and European
countries can usually
Jun, 5 Aug, 15 Aug, 8
Oct, 1 Nov, and 25 and
agreeable Mediterranean stay in the country for up 26 Dec are public
climate. Summers are hot to 90 days without a visa. holidays in Dalmatia.
and winters mild. Despite Visitors from Africa need Banks, shops and some
this idyllic weather, the a visa, and should seek restaurants close on
bulk of the region’s tourist advice from the Croatian these days. Local holidays
facilities close from the Ministry of Foreign are also observed.
end of October until late Affairs, or an embassy or
April. May and September
are the optimum months
consulate. d Croatian
Ministry of Foreign Affairs: ( Timetables
and Transfers
for a visit; the weather is www.mfa.hr Plan any journey by
good, everything is open, public transport carefully;
but the summer crowds Embassies and staff at information desks
are absent. ^ Consulates are there to help. Ferry
The Croatian Ministry of timetables, in particular,
£ What to Pack
If taking a prescription
Foreign Affairs’ website
(see above) gives a list of
are subject to change, and
reduced services from
medication, check that you Croatian embassies and October to April. Buses
have a full supply and that consulates overseas, and to meet ferry passengers
you know the pharma- of foreign embassies and are often absent in winter;
ceutical (as opposed consulates on Croatian request that a local travel
to the brand) name. In soil. Most of these are in agency or hotel help
summer, pack sun lotion, Zagreb; the UK also has arrange your transfers.
sunglasses and insect consulates in Split and
repellent; in winter, a
warm coat; and at any
Dubrovnik. d Dubrovnik:
Vukovarska 22. 020 324 597 ) Advance
Reservations
time of year, a waterproof. t Split: Obala Hrvatskog In summer, hotels of all
Narodnog Preporoda 10/III. grades fill up fast. Book
Tourist Map P2. 021 346 007 as far ahead as possible
$ Information for July and August.
Advance information is
available through the & Customs
Goods to the value of
Buying tickets in advance
is essential during fes-
Croatian National Tourist HRK3,000, 200 cigarettes, tivals (see pp54–5), and
Board’s website and its 2 litres of liqueur, 2 litres recommended for bus
offices abroad. Many of wine, 1 litre of spirits travel. Reservations for
Dalmatian towns, cities and 60 ml of perfume (or taking your car on a ferry
and villages have a tourist 250 ml of eau de toilette) can avoid long queues.

Plastic shoes are a good investment if you are intending to go 101


swimming from rock outcrops (the domain of sea urchins).
Streetsmart

Left Disabled parking sign Right Group travel

Special Concerns
! Students
International student
is wise to take some basic
precautions, such as not
under 12s often receive
discounted entrance to
cards don’t carry much walking alone in the dark. attractions. Additional
weight in Croatia. A Meetings with strangers beds and cots can be
Hostelling International should be in busy public added to hotel rooms for
card gives discounts at places during the day. a small charge (book in
the Dubrovnik and Zadar advance). Public baby
youth hostels (see p116).
d Hostelling International: % Senior Citizens
Many seniors visit
changing facilities are
scarce, but disposable
www.hihostels.com Dalmatia. They receive a nappies and baby food
warm welcome, but few are easy to come by.
@ Disabled Travellers discounts in high season.
In a region where the
key tourist sights are
UK-based Saga Holidays
have a large presence ( Travelling
with Pets
hundreds of years old, in Croatia, with some The UK’s Pet Travel
Dalmatia’s narrow streets hotels even having areas Scheme allows dogs and
and historic buildings are reserved for their Saga cats to travel to Croatia
not easily accessible to guests. d Saga Holidays: and re-enter the UK by
those in wheelchairs. www.saga.co.uk air (Dubrovnik to London
Only the most modern Gatwick with Britannia
hotels and restaurants
have facilities for the ^ Vegetarians
Meat and fish
Airways). Pets must have
been vaccinated against
disabled. Anyone with dominate menus, with rabies and have tested
mobility needs should vegetarian options often negative 6 months later.
contact the Croatian limited to simple salads, They require a passport
National Tourist Board pasta starters, risottos and have to be treated
(see p101) for advice (often mushroom), vege- for ticks and tapeworm
when planning their trip. table accompaniments by a Croatian vet before
and cheese. More choice returning home. Contact
£ Gay and Lesbian
Travellers
is available to those who
self-cater – or picnic at a
Defra for more details.
d Defra (UK): 08459 335
Attitudes towards homo- local beauty spot. Most 577. www.defra.gov.uk
sexuality are often far towns and villages have
from enlightened.
Dalmatia does not have
food markets and well-
stocked supermarkets. ) Working in Croatia
Croatia is not part of
a gay scene to speak of the EU and high levels
and any public displays of
affection between same- & Group Travel
In July and August
of unemployment make
it hard for non-Croatians
sex couples may well Dubrovnik can feel to find jobs. Most foreign
affront local people, or overcrowded with tour workers are employed by
solicit negative attention; groups. The Croatian multinationals or work at
the Gay Pride procession National Tourist Office a distance for home-based
in Zagreb sees attacks by (see p101) will provide companies. Voluntary
extremists every year. lists of foreign travel work is available through
operators specializing exchange programmes;
$ Lone Females
Although some men
in group travel. embassies (see p101)
and the Croatian Heritage
have chauvinist attitudes,
lone female travellers will * Travelling
Children
with Foundation are good
sources of information.
usually be treated with Children are welcome d Croatian Heritage Foun-
respect. Nonetheless, it almost anywhere and dation: www.matis.hr

102 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com


Streetsmart
Left Domestic ferry Right Sailing

Getting to and Around Dalmatia


! By Air
There are direct flights
Autoklub and national
automobile associations * Taxis and Buses
Taxis can be booked
to Dalmatia from over can advise on crossing or hailed. Bus stops and
15 European countries, borders by car. d Hrvatski stations display timetables
among them the UK, Autoklub: www.hak.hr for local and national bus
Germany, Italy, France services. Bus fares are
and the Netherlands.
Those from outside % Cruising
Dubrovnik is firmly on
reasonable, though there
is a charge for each piece
Europe transit through the Mediterranean cruise- of luggage in the hold.
Zagreb or a European ship circuit. The likes of
airport. d Croatia Airlines:
www.croatiaairlines.hr
Royal Caribbean regularly
drop anchor here, as do ( Car Rental
To hire a car you must
smaller ships, on their be at least 21, have held
@ Airports
Dalmatia has three
way to or from Venice,
Istria and Montenegro.
a full licence for 2 years,
and have a passport and
international airports, Split, d Royal Caribbean: www. credit card. National auto-
Dubrovnik and Zadar. d royalcaribbean.com t JEM mobile clubs can advise
Split Airport: Map D5. 021 Trade: www.croatia-istria. on whether you need
203 555. www.split-airport. com an International Driving
hr t Dubrovnik Airport: Map Permit (most people
L3. 020 773 100. www.
airport-dubrovnik.hr t Zadar ^ Sailing
Dalmatia is emerging
don’t). Check terms and
conditions carefully. Sixt
Airport: Map B3. 023 205 as something of a Mecca is a reputable hire
800. www.zadar-airport.hr for sailors. With company. d Sixt: 01 665
numerous islands and 1599. www.sixt.com
£ By Boat islets, hidden coves,
Jadrolinija car ferries
operate between Italy
seemingly endless
swathes of unspoiled and ) Rules of the Road
The Croatian speed
and Dalmatia (Ancona– dramatic coastline, and limits are: 50 kmph (30
Split, Ancona–Zadar and relatively calm seas, it is mph) in towns, 80 kmph
Bari–Dubrovnik). Split easy to understand why (50 mph) outside towns,
Tours and SNAV have (see pp46–7). 100 kmph (60 mph) on
passenger services highways and 130 kmph
between Ancona and
Split. SNAV also runs a & Domestic
Services
Ferry (80 mph) on motorways.
It is compulsory to wear
Pescara–Stari and Grad Jadrolinija runs an array seat belts and to have
(Hvar)–Split route. Azzura of ferries to Dalmatia’s your headlights on
Line links Bari and islands, with the bulk (although not in
Dubrovnik. d Jadrolinija: departing from Split, summer). It is illegal to
www.jadrolinija.hr t Split Šibenik and Zadar. Tickets have a blood-alcohol
Tours: www.splittours.hr must be purchased prior level in excess of 0.5 mg
t SNAV: www.snav.com to boarding, from ticket per 100 ml. It is illegal to
t Azzura Line: www. kiosks, Jadrolinija offices talk on a mobile phone
azzurraline.com or ferry terminals. Foot while driving. The police
passengers can usually must be informed of
$ By Road
Routes from Western
just turn up, but advance
reservations for vehicles
road accidents, and
hazard warning triangles
Europe traverse Slovenia. are recommended in July must be used at
Access from Central and August. Split Tours breakdowns. (For
and Eastern Europe is run catamaran services emergency phone
via Hungary. The Hrvatski from Split. numbers, see p104).

Croatia Airlines shuttle buses run between the airports and the city 103
centres, and may be used by passengers of other airlines as well.
Streetsmart

Left Hospital Right Croatian policeman

Security and Health


! Reciprocal
Agreements
Health
% Health Centres
and Hospitals
own car, contact your
automobile association
Most European countries, All Dalmatia’s main towns to check how you can
including the UK and and cities have either a arrange international
Ireland, have reciprocal health centre or a hospital breakdown cover.
health agreements with where you will be able to
Croatia. Those covered
by these agreements
see a doctor. The quality
of care is parallel to that ( Documentation
The Croatian police
can get free emergency given in many Western are entitled to ask you to
medical care in Croatia, European countries, with produce an identity card
but will have to pay for clean and well-equipped or passport at any time.
other consultations and facilities and highly You must also show one
prescription charges. As trained staff. of these forms of ID when
Croatia is not in the EU, checking into accommo-
you do not need an EHIC.
^ Pharmacies
Centrally located
dation. When driving, you
must have the correct
@ Travel Insurance
It is unwise to rely on
pharmacies (ljekarna)
are found in most cities,
documentation with you,
including your driver’s
reciprocal health agree- towns and resorts. In licence, in case the police
ments. Comprehensive rural areas you may have want to inspect it. Tourists
travel insurance (see to travel some way to are rarely stopped, but
p101) can save huge sums locate one. Opening hours you can be fined for failing
if you become ill or are are usually from 8am to to produce documents.
involved in an accident. 8pm Monday to Friday
and from 8am to 2pm on
) Landmines
£ Bites and Stings
Stray animals may
Saturdays. Pharmacists
often speak English and
Most of Dalmatia has
for years been clear of
have rabies and should for minor ailments they landmines laid in the war
not be petted. The spines can suggest suitable non- of the early 1990s, but
of sea urchins on rocky prescription medicines. they do still exist. Around
shorelines can cause Skradin, Krka National
infection, but you can
prevent problems by & Crime
Crime rates are lower
Park and the border area
with Bosnia, fields and
wearing shoes. Ticks in Croatia than in most even whole villages still
found in forests between European countries, with have signs warning of
April and August can carry serious crimes against landmines. Walkers
tick-borne encephalitis or tourists particularly rare. heading off the beaten
Lyme disease; cover up Tourists do, however, fall track should use a recent
and wear insect repellent. prey to pickpockets. Take map, stick to trails and
In summer, the region’s a sensible approach to seek local advice about
mosquitoes may also your personal safety and the possibility of mines.
give you nasty bites. that of your valuables. If
you become the victim Emergency
$ Sun Precautions
Sunstroke, sunburn
of a crime, contact the
police immediately.
Phone Numbers
or dehydration can spoil Police 92
Fire 93
a holiday. You can protect
yourself by wearing * Vehicle Breakdown
Rental cars in Croatia Ambulance 94
sunscreen with a high usually have emergency Breakdown 987
SPF and a sunhat, and by breakdown cover. If you Maritime rescue 9155
drinking plenty of water. are planning to take your

104 English is widely spoken in Croatia, as are German and Italian.


Streetsmart
Left ATM Middle Internet café Right Post office

Banking and Communications


! Currency
Dalmatia’s official
for hidden charges and
note the international
opening hours are 8am
to 8pm Monday to Friday,
currency is the Croatian number for reporting a 8am to 1pm on Saturday,
kuna (kn or HRK). There lost or stolen card. Chip- although times vary.
are 100 lipa to the kuna. and-pin technology is Branches in small towns
Prices are often quoted in increasingly common. often close earlier.
euros and kuna, with both
accepted. Exchange rates
are often more favourable % Public Phones
Direct calls can be * Internet
Internet cafés have
for kuna than euros. made to local, national sprung up all over
and international numbers Dalmatia. Coin-operated
@ Exchange
Banks, post offices,
using any public phone.
Most only work with a
terminals are common in
hotel lobbies. Wireless
bureaux de change, travel phone card, which can be technology is arriving,
agencies and hotels all bought at a post office or with hotspots appearing
offer exchange services, from a tobacco kiosk in in a growing number of
with the euro being the denominations of 15 to hotels and cafés; VIP
most easily converted 100 units. For local calls, runs the biggest network.
currency. Many will also omit the three-digit area d VIP: www.vipnet.hr
readily exchange US code. The country code
dollars and sterling for
kuna. Most banks and
for Croatia is 385.
( Television
State-owned Hrvatska
post offices also change
travellers’ cheques. Banks ^ Mobile Phones
Mobile phone calls
Radio Televizija (HRT)
broadcasts on HRT1 and
offer the best deal for made within Croatia are HRT2. Two privately run
currency exchange. charged at local mobile channels are Nova TV and
rates, but the cost of RTL. Non-subscription
£ Cash Machines
Cities, towns and
incoming and outgoing
international calls is
satellite channels, mainly
in German or Italian, are
larger villages have ATMs. high. Phone calls made also widely available.
You can use credit and from Croatian numbers Upmarket hotels will
debit cards to withdraw to mobiles on global usually have international
money at an ATM, and networks also incur channels, including BBC
will pay commission or a expensive international World and CNN.
set fee each time you do charges. Those visiting
so. ATMs are few and far
between in rural locations
for a long time should
consider purchasing a ) Newspapers
Croatian dailies
and on smaller islands. Croatian SIM card. include Slobodna
Dalmacija, Večernji list,
$ Credit Cards
and Debit Cards & Post Offices
At larger post offices
Jutarnji list, Vjesnik and
Hina News Line (the
American Express, Diners you can post mail, send latter in English and
Club, MasterCard, Visa, faxes, buy telephone online only). Foreign-
Maestro and Cirrus are cards, exchange currency, language dailies include
widely accepted in shops, withdraw cash using a The Guardian Europe and
restaurants and hotels, as credit card and arrange International Herald
well as at ATMs, although Western Union money Tribune, but they are
it’s wise to keep some transfers. Airmail takes often too out-of-date to
spare cash on you (see around five days to reach justify the inflated prices.
p106). Before travelling, Europe and two weeks d Hina News Line: www.
check with your issuer to reach the USA. Normal hina.hr

If you are planning to pay by credit card, make sure that you 105
know your chip-and-pin number.
Streetsmart

Left Croatian wines Right Duty-free shopping

Eating, Drinking & Shopping Tips


 Tax refunds
Croatian sales tax,
heading to the beach,
waterfront or picnic spot
and Rukatac), the
Pelješac Peninsula (Sveta
at the rate of 22 per cent, of your choice. Benches Ana), Vis (Vugava) and
is included in the price of are common in beauty Hvar (Zlatan Otok and
every item. Non-Croatians spots, but there are few Zavala). Recommended
who spend over 500kn in organized picnic facilities. reds come from the
a single transaction in a Those planning regular Pelješac Peninsula
shop displaying a “Tax picnics might like to (Dinga¦, Plavac, Plavac
Free Shopping” sign can invest in a cooler picnic Mali and Postup), Konavle
claim tax back through the backpack and a small rug (Merlot and Cabernet
Global Refund scheme. before leaving home. Sauvignon) and Hvar
Customers need to obtain (Zlatan Plavac). Northern
a Global Refund Cheque
at the time of purchase,  Types of
Restaurant
Dalmatian Babi× and
Central Dalmatian Kaštelet
and ensure that they take Eateries are traditionally are other popular red
this, the original receipt categorized as restoran wines. You can cut your
and the goods to the (restaurant), konoba costs by buying direct
refund desk at the airport. (taverna) or gostiona (inn). from the vineyard.
 www.globalrefund.com Differences can be hard to
define. Broadly speaking,
 Cash Discounts
 Keep Spare Cash
ATMs, banks, post
there is a descending
degree of formality and
Some shops, hotels
and restaurants offer
offices and currency a corresponding fall in discounts of 10 to 20 per
exchange bureaus are price from restoran down cent if you pay in cash.
scarce in rural areas to gostiona. In practice,
and smaller villages in
Dalmatia. Although credit
the distinction is blurred.
Other places to eat  Duty-free
Croatia is not in the
cards and debit cards are include the slasti¦arnica, EU, so foreigners can
becoming more widely which sells cakes and buy a wide range of duty-
accepted, they are not pastries, and ice-cream free items at its airports.
taken everywhere, so (sladoled) parlours. Gifts, alcohol, tobacco,
keep enough Croatian perfumes, confectionery,
currency with you to
cover accommodation,  Opening Hours
As a rule of thumb,
jewellery and leather
goods are available.
meals, petrol and other shops open from 8am Prices are competitive,
costs for at least a day. to 9pm Monday to Friday but it is often cheaper to
and 8am to 1pm or 2pm buy wine and foodstuffs
 Happy Hours
In tourist areas, drinks
on Saturdays. In tourist
centres, trading hours
in local shops.

promotions offering
significantly discounted
are longer, especially in
the high season. Smaller  Tipping
Service is normally
prices are common. shops may take an included in the price of a
Times vary, so check extended lunch hour. meal, but it is customary
local advertisements. to round the bill up to the
 Wine nearest 10kn, and to leave
 Picnics
Stock up on tasty
Some of Croatia’s
best wine comes from
an additional tip of 10 to
15 per cent if service has
fare from food markets, Dalmatia. Look out for been exceptionally good,
supermarkets or directly dry white wines from especially in tourist areas.
from local producers Konavle (Maraština and Taxi drivers appreciate,
(look out for signs), before Ragusa), Kor¦ula (Pošip but do not expect, a tip.

106 If you are intending to reclaim the sales tax on items you have
purchased in Croatia, don’t open them until you have done so.
Streetsmart
Left Multi-lingual accommodation sign Right Food market

Dalmatia on a Budget
! Charter Flights
In season, there are
as additional beds can
often be added at little
spirits and olive oil, which
make good gifts. Try them
charter flights from all extra cost. Touts who also for clothing, leather
over Europe to Dalmatia. solicit for guests at bus goods or a tasty snack.
A local travel agent will and ferry terminals offer
be able to give details. cheap private rooms;
before agreeing, always * Transport
Long-distance bus
@ Budget Flights
Several budget airlines
check the location. Book
private accommodation
fares and foot passenger
rates on boats are both
fly direct to Croatia, such for three days or more, reasonable. For families
as Ryanair, Easyjet and as a 30 per cent surcharge and larger groups, the
German Wings. Indirect is often levied for shorter convenience of hiring
options include flying from stays. Local travel agents a car (see p103) may
London Stansted to Bari can also arrange affordable outweigh the savings to
or Ancona with Ryanair, rooms or apartments. be made after purchasing
then travelling on to Split, multiple tickets. On local
Hvar or Dubrovnik by ferry
or catamaran (see p103). % Visit out of Season
Most hotels operate
bus services buy tickets
in advance as this is often
You can travel overland to three seasonal price- cheaper than obtaining
Dalmatia from Ljubljana bands: June to September them from the driver.
(Slovenia) and Trieste are the peak months, and
(Italy), but journey times
are long (about 16 hours).
so the most expensive; in
April, May and October, ( Internal Flights
Flying from the
Which Budget has the the rates are slightly capital Zagreb to Split,
details of most European reduced; and in November Dubrovnik, Zadar or (in
budget airline routes. and March, prices can be the peak season only)
d www.ryanair.com significantly cheaper, even the island of Brač saves
t www.easyjet.com in Dubrovnik. valuable time. Once in
t www.german wings.com Croatia, foreigners can
t www.which budget.com
^ Food
Using self-catering
book Croatia Airlines
flights at their offices at
£ Packages
The Croatian National
accommodation equipped
with a fridge and cooker
discounted local rates.
d www.croatiaairlines.hr
Tourist Office can provide is one way to save money
a list of travel agents that
organize package holidays
on food. Many camp sites
also have electrical points, ) Sightseeing
Dalmatia offers plenty
in Dalmatia. A package where appliances can be of free activities: visiting
can often be cheaper than plugged in. Produce from churches, exploring the
standard room rates and local shops and markets narrow lanes of the old
flight costs, especially if is generally cheaper than towns, walking and
booked at the last minute. that in supermarkets. swimming (from most
d Croatian National Tourist Many restaurants in the beaches). Galleries
Office: www.croatia.hr region are good value. exhibiting the work of
Croatian and international
$ Accommodation
To secure the best & Markets
As well as cheap fresh
artists also welcome
visitors without charge.
deals, book well ahead fruit, vegetables, fish and There is usually a nominal
and compare rates on other groceries, markets fee to visit museums,
the Internet with quotes in tourist areas often sell with discounts given for
taken over the telephone. some souvenirs and children and family tickets
Share a room if possible, foodstuffs such as honey, sometimes available.

Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com 107


Streetsmart

Left Photographic restaurant menus Right Old-town driving

Things to Avoid
 Cruise
Crowds
Ship recipe for traffic jams
and accidents. A new
neighbours, particularly
Slovenian and Serbian.
Dubrovnik and Split can motorway linking Zadar, Although they may
be overrun when a cruise Šibenik and Split to understand it, Croatians
ship (or two) docks and Zagreb, and the widening do not appreciate people
its passengers come of the Adriatic Highway using Slovene or Serb
ashore, usually in the itself, are improving the vocabulary; for instance,
afternoon. To avoid situation, but it remains a be careful not to confuse
trailing around attractions dangerous and busy road. Croatian molim (please)
after large tour groups, or with Slovenian prosim.
struggling to get a seat in
 Driving in
Old Towns
a restaurant, spend your
afternoons relaxing in Large sections of the  Over-exposure
to the Sun
your hotel, on the beach region’s old towns are Cooling sea breezes
or exploring sights pedestrianized and if you and mountain winds can
beyond the city centre. try, like some locals, to mask the power of the
At night, when the cruise drive through them you sun. Serious sunburn will
ships have left, a much may get stuck behind need medical treatment
quieter old town awaits. parked cars, or find and can ruin your trip, so
yourself at a dead end take sensible precautions
 Tourist
Restaurants
that it is hard to reverse
out of. It is much easier
at all times (see p104).
Where possible, sit in the
Beware of restaurants to use the car parks shade or under a parasol.
with photographic menus located just outside the
and staff soliciting your
custom – both warning
old towns and walk in.
 Visiting Museums
on Mondays
Regional Politics
signs that local people
don’t eat there. Expecting  In a region that was Many museums are open
seven days a week. Those
your patronage only once, badly hit by war during that do close will usually
such establishments will the early 1990s, it is not do so on a Monday.
often serve up bland and surprising that many
lacklustre food. Dalmatians
rarely eat out, except
Dalmatians still feel
passionately about this  Schoolchildren
In April schoolchildren
when on business and subject. Entering into from all over Croatia seem
for special occasions: idle conversation about to converge on the tourist
local accents are the sign people’s experiences of centres, with Dubrovnik
of a good restaurant. the war can be seen as being the hot favourite.
prying. Debating the They are usually well
 Adriatic Highway
The main road that
rights and wrongs of the
conflict won’t win you
behaved, but they can
take up all the space in a
runs along the length friends either. However, museum or church, and
of the Adriatic coast, genuine interest in what are hard to keep out of
the Adriatic Highway took place here will often your photographs.
(Jadranska Magistrala), elicit illuminating, even
can be a nightmare to
drive on between June
harrowing, stories.
 Pickpockets
While crime rates in
and September. Coaches,
freight vehicles, slow-  Language Faux Pas
To the untrained ear
Dalmatia are low (see
p104), petty theft is on
driving tourists and locals the Croatian language the rise. Where possible
in a hurry, combined with sounds very similar to keep valuables in inside
a single lane road, are a the Slavic tongues of its or zipped pockets.

108
Streetsmart
View from the Excelsior, Dubrovnik (see p110)

Accommodation Tips
! Price and Location
Annoyingly, the closer
A renovation programme
is gradually bringing all
value for families (see
p116–17). Most hotels
it is to the Old Town, the Dalmatian hotels up to will provide a baby’s cot
more expensive the room. 3-star standard or above. for a small daily charge.
A good compromise is to
stay outside the centre
where transport links are % Lighthouses
For a break with * Peak Season
Hotels, apartments,
good (as in Split and a difference consider rooms and camp sites are
Dubrovnik) and splash staying in one of eleven in high demand, and at
out on old-town rooms historic stone lighthouses their most expensive
the rest of the time. located on Dalmatia’s from June to September
most remote islands (see p107); some places
@ Aa View
Room with and islets (see p115).
Choosing the lighthouse
hike up their prices even
further in July and August.
Dalmatia is brimming carefully can save on the It is easier, and cheaper, to
with hotels that overlook cost of private transfers, secure accommodation
the sea. Rooms with a with Veli Rat (Dugi Otok), without a reservation in
sea view come at a small Struga (Lastovo) and Sv April and October. From
extra cost, but when Petar (on the mainland November to March rates
the choice is between near Makarska) accessible are at their lowest, but
looking out onto the sea by public transport or car. many hotels, and most
or car park, it is worth Renting is usually by the camp sites, are closed.
finding the extra funds. week, but between mid-
Specify at the time of
booking that you want a
September and early May
you may be able to book ( Internet Booking
The Internet can be a
sea view, to avoid being two-day stays. Contact useful tool when choosing
disappointed on arrival. Plovput for more details. accommodation, allowing
d www.plovput.hr you to view photographs,
£ Beware of Noise
At the height of the
t www.adriatica.net read reviews submitted
by previous guests and
tourist season hotels
located next to cafés ^ Rural Hotels
The agritourism
compare prices, before
making a booking. Some
and bars can suddenly concept of farm holidays hotels and one-stop
become noisy, when is slowly emerging here. booking sites discount
stereos pump out tunes Villagers in the likes of rates, particularly when
until the small hours. If Šibenik-Knin county, close there is late availability.
you are uncertain about to Krka National Park, are
the hotel’s location ask
about possible distur-
opening their doors to
tourists. Properties are ) Breakfast,
Half-board and
bances before booking. usually simple and clean, Full-board
with many retaining Most hotel rates include
Grading Systems rustic elements. Prices breakfast. Even upmarket
$ Croatian hotels are are roughly equivalent to hotels often offer half-
classified from basic that of a private room in board, but full-board is
1-star up to luxurious a coastal town or city. rarer. Dalmatia has an
5-star. In 1- and 2-star abundance of fine and
hotels, some rooms may
have shared bathrooms. & Children
Self-contained apart-
inexpensive eateries,
so unless budget is your
This grading system can ments arranged through prime concern think
also broadly be applied to local and national travel twice about committing
private accommodation. agencies can be good to dining in the hotel.

109
Streetsmart

Left Swimming pool at the Grand Villa Argentina Right Bedroom at the Dubrovnik President

Dubrovnik Hotels
! Excelsior
Easily the finest hotel
indoor pool and all the
services that you would
like slippers and bath
robes. d Masarykov Put 6
in Dubrovnik in the years expect from this chain t Map L4 t 020 433 580
since the war of the 90s, are complemented by t www.hotelimaestral.com
the Excelsior keeps ahead a warm Mediterranean t KKKKK
of its rivals by constantly decor and views of the
upgrading its facilities. The
setting is superb too, with
Old City. d Marijana
Blazića 2 t Map G5 t 020 * Kompas
Slated for a major
stunning Old City views 320 320 t www.dubrovnik. refit designed to bring it
from many of the rooms. hilton.com t KKKKK up to 4-star standard, for
d Frana Supila 12 t Map now Kompas is a cheaper
M5 t 020 353 353 t www.
hotel-excelsior.hr t KKKKK % Dubrovnik
A small hotel, with
option located above
Uvala Bay beach and
just 21 clean and simply with views of the sea.
@ Dubrovnik Palace
A renovation in 2004
furnished rooms (6 of
them suites), Dubrovnik
The balconied rooms will
offer greater comfort in
brought luxury and a first- is a welcome change the future. d Šetalište
rate spa to this large hotel from the larger hotels Kralja Zvonimira 56 t Map
on the Lapad Peninsula. that dominate the Lapad L4 t 020 352 000 t www.
All bedrooms have Peninsula. It has a nice hotel-kompas.hr t KKK
balconies and sea views. café-bar. d Šetalište Kralja
Leisure facilities include
indoor and outdoor pools.
Zvonimira bb t Map L4
t 020 435 030 t www. ( Dubrovnik
President
d Masarykov Put 20 t Map hoteldubrovnik.hr t KK This large, concrete hotel
K4 t 020 430 000 t www. is redeemed by the fact
dubrovnikpalace.hr t KKKKK Bellevue that all its well-equipped
^ Just 15 minutes’ walk balconied rooms are sea-
£ Grand Villa
Argentina
from the Old City, this
luxurious 5-star hotel
facing and offer views
of the Elafiti Islands. A
Restored to its full 5-star overlooks the attractive private beach, indoor pool,
glory, the Argentina is in Miramare Bay. The sports facilities and its
the district of Ploče (just interior features olive proximity to Copacabana
east of the gate of the wood and grey granite, Beach (see p66) are also
same name). Choose a giving it a Mediterranean plus points. d Iva Dulčića
room in the main hotel feel. It has its own 39 t.BQ,t
or in one of four villas. private beach. d Pera tXXXWBMBNBSDPNEVCSPWOJL
The sea-view rooms Čingrije 7 t Map L4 t 020 IPUFMQSFTJEFOUt,,,,
enjoy fabulous views of 330 000 t www.hotel-
the Old City.
d Frana Supila 14 t Map
bellevue.hr t KKKKK
) Lero
The good-value Lero
M5 t 020 440 555 t www.
gva.hr t KKKKK & Uvala
This stylish Lapad
is located 15 minutes’
walk from the Old City.
hotel has indoor and out- Close to the beach, it has
$ Hilton Imperial
Dubrovnik
door pools, a “wellness”
centre, private parking
clean, simply decorated
rooms (many with sea
The former Imperial and conference facilities. views) with white walls
Hotel, just outside the The 51 rooms are mini- and bedding. The guest
Pile Gate, reopened its malist, with white walls parking is a useful bonus.
doors after a long wait and beige soft furnishings. d Put Iva Vojnovića 14
in 2005, as the Hilton Some are sea-facing; all t Map L4 t 020 341 333
Imperial. A fitness centre, offer creature comforts t www.hotel-lero.hr t KK

110 For the Lapad Peninsula See p66; for more hotels in Dubrovnik
See p114
Price Categories
For a standard K under 450kn
double room per KK 450–900kn
night (with breakfast KKK 900–1,350kn
if included), taxes KKKK 1,350–1,800kn
and extra charges. KKKKK over 1,800kn

Streetsmart
Jadran, Šibenik

Northern Dalmatian Hotels


! Biser, Pag
The small, family-run
rooms to its existing 3-
star accommodation. An
serves food. There is also
an apartment annex.
Biser is 2 km (1 mile) from attractive terrace d Jurjevgradska 49 t Map
the centre of Pag Town. restaurant serving good C4 t 022 447 230 t www.
Some of its 24 rooms food adds to the hotel’s themovieresort.com
have stunning views over charm. Splash out on one t Closed Jan–Apr t KKK
Pag Bay and the Velebit of the new Villa Vicko
Mountains. With a car
park, an on-site restaurant,
suites, with balconies
over-looking the sea and * Jadran, Šibenik
Šibenik’s only
tennis courts and a the Paklenica mountains. centrally located hotel
private beach in a pleasant d Joše Dokoze 20 t Map has been given a make-
cove, the Biser is ideal B2 t 023 369 304 t www. over to provide guests
for families. d Antuna hotel-vicko.hr t KKK with light, modern and
Gustava Matoša 8 t Map comfortable rooms. A
A2 t 023 611 333 t www.
hotel-biser.com t KK % Kolovare, Zadar
This business-oriented
pleasant pavement café,
mini-bars, private car
hotel has an outdoor pool parking and sea-facing
@ Pagus, Pag
This low-rise resort-
and modern rooms, and
is close to the beach.
rooms also stand in
its favour. d Doktora
style hotel has a superb Just 10 minutes’ walk Franje Tuđmana 52 t Map
location just northwest of from Zadar’s old town, C4 t 022 242 000 t www.
Pag Town. Simple rooms its location is hard to rivijera.hr t KK
have balconies, with the beat, but prices are on
best boasting sea views.
d Ante Starčevića 1 t Map
the high side for a 3-star
hotel. d Bože Peričića 14 ( Panorama, Šibenik
As its name suggests,
A2 t 023 611 310 t www. t Map B3 t 023 203 200 one of the main reasons
coning-turizam.hr t Closed t www.hotel-kolovare.com to stay in this hotel is for
mid-Oct–Apr t KK t KKK the view, with some
south-facing rooms
£ Alan, Starigrad-
Paklenica ^ Skradinski
Skradin
Buk, overlooking the Šibenik
archipelago and the city’s
Housed in an unappealing This attractive hotel has historic old town.
tower block, the Alan is a 28 simple, comfortable d Šibenski Most bb t Map
blot on the landscape, but rooms in which yellow C4 t 022 213 398 t www.
its rooms (which sleep up bedding and prints add a hotel-panorama.hr t KK
to six) were upgraded to splash of colour. In-room
3-star standard in 2003.
A camp site, restaurant,
facilities include mini-bars,
satellite TV and Internet ) Villa Koša,
Primošten
café, outdoor pool, and points. All rooms have The 13 individually styled
its proximity to the beach balconies. d Burinovac bb units at this aparthotel
attract families. d Dr t Map C4 t 022 771 771 t vary in size, sleeping
Fanje Tuđmana 14 t Map www.skradinskibuk.hr t KK between two and eight.
B2 t 023 209 050 t www. Most have balconies and
bluesunhotels.com t Closed
/PWoNJE.BSt,, & Movie Resort
Hotel, Tribunj
sea views; some have
small kitchenettes. Break-
Guests staying in the fast and air conditioning
$ Vicko, Starigrad-
Paklenica
28 well-equipped rooms,
named after film stars,
are charged on top of the
room rate. d Josipa Bana
This welcoming family- have access to a private Jelačića 4 t Map C4 t 022
run hotel has added beach and the British- 570 365 t www.villa-kosa.
some 4-star seaside style Movie Pub, which htnet.hr t KK

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit 111


cards and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning.
Streetsmart

Left Slavija, Split Right San Giorgio, Vis Town

Central Dalmatian Hotels


! Slavija, Split
A serious injection of
the attractive Austro-
Hungarian influenced
have views to the sea.
d Petra Hektrovica 2 t Map
cash has transformed a square. The café spills D6 t 021 711 362 t www.
formerly grungy dive into out onto Trg Republike paula-hotel.t-com.hr t KKK
this clean and welcoming and is a pleasant place to
3-star hotel. Set inside
Diocletian’s palace, it has
while away an hour or so.
d Bana Jelačića 2 t Map * Amfora, Hvar Town
Hvar’s largest hotel is
simply furnished en-suite N2 t 021 345 644 t www. staggering in its scale.
rooms. If you can afford hotel-bellevue-split.hr t No Welcoming staff, pleasant
it, splash out on suite 401, air con t KK bedrooms, many with
with its separate sitting views of the Pakleni
area. d Buvinina 2 t Map
P2 t 021 323 840 t www. % Fontana, Trogir
This old-town hotel
Islands (see p84), and
diverse sports facilities,
hotelslavija.com t KK offers large, if slightly old- including a large indoor
fashioned, rooms. Those pool, are among its plus
@ Park, Split
Traditionally regarded
with a Jacuzzi are worth
the extra charge and the
points. It is one of the few
hotels in Hvar Town open
as Split’s best hotel, the hotel’s well-equipped year round. d Majerovica bb
Park is just set back from apartment suits families. t Map D6 t 021 750 300 t
the waterfront at Bačvice. d Obrov 1 t Map D5 t 021 www.suncanihvar.com t KK
It boasts comfortable 885 744 t www.fontana-
modern rooms, friendly
staff and a decent rest-
commerce.htnet.hr t KK
( Palace, Hvar Town
This well-equipped 3-
aurant with a palm-fringed
terrace looking out to sea. ^ Vila Sikaa, Čiovo
There are 10 bright,
star hotel is housed in a
Venetian-style villa in the
d Hatzeov Perivoj 3 t Map up-to-date rooms and centre of Hvar Town. From
Q6 t 021 406 400 t www. suites at this family-run the terrace with its stone-
hotelpark-split.hr t KKK boutique hotel. Some carved balustrade you can
offer stunning views of watch the bustle of daily
£ Split, Split
Located 40 minutes’
Trogir’s old town, while
others have wooden
life, and yachts anchoring
in the harbour. d Trg Sv
walk from the old town, beams. All rooms have Stjepana bb t Map D6 t 021
the position of the Split mini-bars and Internet 741 966 t www.suncanihvar.
deters some guests, connections and the com t No air con t KK
though the stroll around executive double has
the bay is pleasant and
its rooms are light and
a Jacuzzi. d Obala Kralja
Zvonimira 13 t Map D5 ) Riva, Hvar Town
In an attractive stone
spacious. Book a room t 021 798 240 t www. building overlooking Hvar
with a balcony and sea vila-sikaa-r.com t KK Town’s marina, the 4-star
view. The hotel has its Riva has simple, com-
own beach, outdoor pool
and parking. d Put & San
Town
Giorgio, Vis fortable accommodation
with air conditioning, and
Trstenika 19 t off map The historic Kut area of is open year-round. Try to
t 021 303 111 t KKK Vis Town is the setting bag a sea-facing room
for this small, family- with a balcony. A word of
$ Bellevue, Split
The simple rooms at
owned hotel. Its stone
façade, large guest
warning: adjacent to a
lively bar, the hotel is not
the Bellevue are light and rooms, tranquil location for light sleepers.
of a good size. Some have and excellent seafood d Riva t Map D6 t 021 750
views out towards Split’s restaurant are a winning 100 t www.suncanihvar.
waterfront, others onto combination. Some rooms com t KKKK

112 Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit


cards and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning.
Price Categories
For a standard K under 450kn
double room per KK 450–900kn
night (with breakfast KKK 900–1,350kn
if included), taxes KKKK 1,350–1,800kn
and extra charges. KKKKK over 1,800kn

Streetsmart
Liburna, Korčula Town

Southern Dalmatian Hotels


! Liburna,
Korčula Town
all over Croatia to enjoy
the fine seafood, stunning
L3 t 020 475 555 t www.
hoteli-croatia.hr t KKKK
Winning features of this scenery and tranquillity.
pleasant 3-star hotel
include its outdoor pool,
d Pelješki Put t Map K2
t 020 754 999 t www. * Villa
Cavtat
Kvaternik,

tennis courts, mini-golf, vila-koruna.hr t KK This luxurious boutique


water sports, bicycle hire hotel is housed in a 15th-
and car park. The ten per
cent surcharge for a room % Bellevue, Orebić
An unmistakable red
century stone building at
the heart of Cavtat’s old
with views of the old façade adorns this relaxed town. It has 6 rooms with
town, pool and terrace is 2-star resort hotel. Just wooden floors and bright,
well worth it. d Put od Luke northwest of the town modern soft furnishings.
17 t Map H1 t 020 726 006 t centre, it is shaded by In-room facilities include
www.korcula-hotels.com t pines and close to a Internet connections. Try
No air con t KKK pebble beach. There is to get a room with a view
an annexe and apartment of the bay. d Kvaternikova
@ Korčula,
Korčula Town
block. Most rooms have
sea views; try to book one
3 t Map L3 t 020 479 800 t
www.hotelvilakvaternik.com
Korčula Town’s most with a balcony. d Sveti Križa t KKK
central hotel occupiesan 104 t Map H1 t 020 713 148
old building with a
charming terrace over-
t www.orebic-htp.hr t K
( Monastery, Cavtat
The Australian owners
looking the west harbour.
Rooms are reasonable, ^ Castle
Orebić
Antonio, of the Villa Kvaternik also
have rooms in the town’s
not outstanding. d Obala This welcoming villa, built former monastery, located
Dr Franje Tudmana 5 t Map in a slightly kitsch castle right on the waterfront.
H1 t 020 711 078 t www. style, luxuriates amid lush Single, twin, double and
korcula-hotels.com t No air vegetation on the Pelješac triple rooms are available.
con t KKK Peninsula, with dramatic Breakfast is served at the
land and sea views from Kvaternik, and guests may
£ Ostrea, Mali Ston
Framed by the sea
its terraces and balconies.
There are 28 rooms and
use the hotel’s facililties.
d Kvaternikova 3 t Map L3
and the Pelješac hills, the one apartment, a bar and t 020 479 800 t www.hotel
Ostrea is an attractive a restaurant. d Podstup, vilakraternik.com t No air
small hotel in the former Pelješac Peninsula t Map con t KK
home of its proprietors, H1 t 020 713 464 t www.
the Kralj family. Modern
art adorns plain walls in
castle-antonio.com t KK
) Villa Neretva,
Metković
the tasteful rooms and
suite. d Ante Starčevića 9 & Croatia, Cavtat
Everything you
Right at the heart of the
Neretva Delta (see p90),
t Map K2 t 020 754 555 would expect to find at this waterfront restaurant
t www.ostrea.hr t KK a colossal 5-star resort with rooms provides com-
hotel is available at the fortable accommodation,
$ Vila Koruna,
Mali Ston
Croatia: a fitness centre,
sports facilities galore, a
and has a well-regarded
kitchen. It is a good base
This family-run restaurant private beach, and indoor, for exploring this extra-
with rooms is set on the outdoor and children’s ordinary water-scape, and
shore of the Malo Stonski pools. All rooms are large runs boat tours for guests.
Channel. Stressed city- and have balconies (many d Splitska 14 t Map J1
dwellers and amorous with sea views) and baths. t 020 672 200 t www.
couples flock here from d Frankopanska 10 t Map restaurant-villa-neretva.hr t K

For more places to stay in Central and Southern Dalmatia 113


See pp114–15
Streetsmart

Left Peristil, Split Right Villa Dubrovnik, Dubrovnik

Characterful Hotels
! Pučić Palace,
Dubrovnik
luxurious retreat. Its
comfortable rooms have
and rooms with views
across to the island of
Classical elegance and balconies with views of Hvar all add to its charm.
history pervade every the sea and Dubrovnik. d David 11a t Map E5
aspect of this refurbished The boat shuttle service t 021 640 888 t www.
Renaissance palace. Be into the Old Harbour hotel-ivan.com t KKK
the envy of everyone in adds that extra element
Dubrovnik by staying in
the only luxury hotel
of romance. d Vlaha
Bukovca 6 t Map M5 * Palača Dešković,
Pučišća, Brač
within the Old City walls. t 020 422 933 t www. Tucked away on Brač’s
d Od Puča 1 t Map J5 villa-dubrovnik.hr t KKKKK northern shore is one of
t 020 326 222 t www.the the region’s most upscale
pucicpalace.com t KKKKK
% Stari Grad Hotel,
Dubrovnik
establishments. Housed
in a former 15th-century
@ Villa Orsula,
Dubrovnik
The cheaper of the two
hotels in the Old City,
palace, this intimate hotel
has moorings for yachts,
This palatial waterfront this intimate, 8-roomed a restaurant serving
villa is the choice of the establishment is tucked traditional meals and
discerning traveller. In a away in a narrow street an attractive courtyard
separate building, the villa just off the Stradun. The and garden. d Map E5
is more intimate than highlight here is the roof t 021 778 240 t www.
the rest of the Argentina terrace, which provides palaca-deskovic.com t KKK
Hotel (see p110) and a cut prime views of the his-
above most Dubrovnik
accommodation. Some
toric centre and is a great
spot for people-watching. ( Peristil, Split
The latest addition
rooms have balconies d Od Sigurate 4 t Map H5 to Split’s hotel scene, the
overlooking the Old City t 020 322 244 t www. Peristil has 12 individually
and all have an elegant hotelstarigrad.com t KKKK styled rooms at the heart
classical decor. d Frana of Diocletian’s Palace.
Supila 14 t Map M5 t 020
440 555 t www.gva.hr ^ President, Zadar
Elegance and good
The decor is light and
elegant throughout, while
t KKKKK service are the order of friendly staff provide the
the day at this boutique finishing touch. Book
Villa Wolff, hotel located northwest room 304, or one over-
£ Dubrovnik of Zadar’s old town in looking the Peri-style
This 6-room boutique Borik. Dark woods and (see p22). d Poljana
hotel offers pleasant hues of beige and brown Kraljice Jelene 5 t Map Q2
rooms, attentive service lend a classical feel to t 021 329 070 t www.
and a restaurant with the well-equipped rooms. hotelperistil.com t KK
sea views, as well as a A 45-minute coastal walk
wonderfully lush garden.
d Nika I Meda Pučića 1
leads to the old town.
d Desnice 16 t Map B3 ) Adriana, Split
Its prime waterfront
t Map L4 t 020 438 710 t 023 333 696 t www. location on the Riva (see
t www.villa-wolff.hr t KKKK hotel-president.hr t KKKK p24) and its clean, modern
rooms have made this
$ Villa Dubrovnik,
Dubrovnik & Ivan, Bol, Brač
This traditional stone
small hotel one of Split’s
most popular – so book
Situated in a green oasis building in the heart of well in advance. d Obla
removed from the hustle Bol has been reinvented Hrvatskog Narodnog
and bustle of the Old as a chic, family-run hotel. Preporoda 8 (Riva) t Map
City is this tranquil and The spa, outdoor pool N2 t 021 340 000 t KK

114 Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit


cards and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning.
Price Categories
For a standard K under 450kn
double room per KK 450–900kn
night (with breakfast KKK 900–1,350kn
if included), taxes KKKK 1,350–1,800kn
and extra charges. KKKKK over 1,800kn

Streetsmart
Stone Cottages, Kornati Islands

Island Retreats
! Palagruža
Lighthouse
Lastovo Town, it can be
reached by road, but
every few days. d Map
B4 t Coronata: www.
To really get away from residents are hardly likely coronata.hr; Kornat Turist:
it all, head to Croatia’s to be disturbed by tourist www.kornatturist.hr; Žut
most remote lighthouse, hordes on this remote Tours: www.zuttours.hr
located on an island 68 island. d Struga Cape t No credit cards t KK
nautical miles from Split. t Map G2 t www.adriatica.
At 90 m (295 ft) above
sea level, it offers superb
net t KKK
* Hotel Odisej, Mljet
National Park
views over the Adriatic Sušac Lighthouse This large, whitewashed
and the little island itself. % Contructed from resort hotel is set in the
Transfers from Korčula Dalmatian stone in 1878, heart of Mljet National
Town are available. this lighthouse has two Park. Rooms are fairly
d off map t www.adriatica. apartments, each of basic; the apartment is
net t KKK which sleeps four people. more luxurious. The hotel
At an elevation of 100 m has a beach, tavern and
@ Pločica Lighthouse
Built in 1887, this
(328 ft) above sea level, it
is a good vantage point.
marina, but the real draw
is the stunning setting.
automated lighthouse Tranquillity is assured on d Pomena t Map J2
can accommodate 14 this uninhabited island. t 020 744 022 t www.
people in two apart- d Map G2 t www.adriatica. hotelodisej.com t KK
ments. The flat islet, net t KKK
between Hvar, Korčula
( Hotel Šipan, Šipan
and the Pelješac
Peninsula, is ideal for ^ Veli Rat
Lighthouse,
This 80-room hotel
overlooks a tranquil bay
swimming and diving. Dugi Otok on the largest of the
Enquire about transfers Perfect for those who Elafiti Islands. It has two
from Korčula Town. want peace and quiet but restaurants and a bar.
d Map G1 t www.adriatica. also want access to local Close to beaches and
net t KKK facilities, Veli Rat light- secluded coves, it offers
house is situated 3 km (2 a great escape from the
£ Prišnjak
Lighthouse, Murter
miles) from two villages
on the island of Dugi
mid-summer hustle and
bustle of Dubrovnik.
Situated on an islet just Otok and accessible by d Šipanska Luka 160
off Murter, the Prišnjak road. d Map A3 t www. tMap K2 t 020 754 900
lighthouse can be easily adriatica.net t KKK t www.hotel-sipan.hr
reached by yacht. While it t Closed mid-Oct–Apr t KK
doesn’t offer a sense of
& Stone Cottages,
Kornati Islands
remoteness, transfers
are reasonably priced, A number of tourist ) Hotel
Lopud
Villa Vilina,

and supplies can be agencies in Murter have This 4-star hotel occupies
delivered daily. d Map B4 a portfolio of rustic stone a villa shrouded by lush
t www.adriatica.net t KKK houses in the Kornati vegetation beside the
Islands National Park, marina. It has 14 rooms
$ Struga
Lastovo
Lighthouse, where you can live out
a desert island dream.
and three suites, all
modern and elegant. The
The four apartments Even if the island is not restaurant, with its sea-
in this attractive 1839 totally deserted, it can view terrace, is popular.
lighthouse can sleep two certainly feel like it is. d Obala Iva Kuljevana 5
to five people. Situated You can arrange to have t Map K2 t 020 759 333
5 km (3 miles) from supplies dropped off t www.villa-vilina.hr t KKK

Note: The lighthouses have no en-suite bathrooms or air con; their 115
pricing is derived from the weekly rate per unit divided by seven.
Streetsmart

Left Dubrovnik Youth Hostel Right Karmen Apartments, Dubrovnik

Budget Accommodation
!Dubrovnik
Youth Hostel
Dalmatian stone villa in
Lapad. There are just
bar. Reservations are
recommended in high
A 10-minute walk from seven bedrooms, so season. d Obala Kneza
the main bus station and book well in advance. Trpimira 76 t Map B3 t 023
15 minutes from the Old The villa has a car park 331 145 t www.hfhs.hr t
City, Dubrovnik’s 82-bed and a communal terrace. No en-suite t No air con t K
hostel is clean and wel- d Mate Vodopica 10 t Map
coming. Accommodation
is in bunks within male
L4 t 020 437 332 t www.
WJMBNJDJLBISt/PBJSDPOt K * Perin Dvor, Nin
Located by the Donji
and female dormitories. Most (Lower Bridge), this
Reservations are a must. Karmen friendly Croatian-German
d Vinka Sagrestana 3 % Apartments, place has seven rooms
t Map L4 t 020 423 241 Dubrovnik and three apartments.
t www.hfhs.hr t No These individually styled, The latter have small,
en-suite t No air con t K well-equipped apartments fully equipped kitchens,
enjoy a prime location and separate sitting/
@ Adriatic,
Dubrovnik
inside the Old City walls.
Book room 1, overlooking
dining areas. Breakfast
(served in the restaurant)
One of Dubrovnik’s few the old port, and be the costs extra. d Hrvatskog
remaining 2-star hotels, envy of every tourist who Sabora 1 t Map B3 t 023
and one of the city’s passes. Considering their 264 307 t K
more affordable options, position, the apartments
the Adriatic is still by no
means cheap. The hotel
represent good value.
d Bandureva 1 t Map K6 ( Accommodation
Touts
has a fairly rudimentary t 020 323 433 t www. Locals tout for business
gym and clay tennis karmendu.tk t KK at bus and ferry terminals
courts; it is also well throughout Dalmatia. A
located for the beach.
d Masarykov Put 9 t Map ^ Zagreb, Dubrovnik
The 3-star Zagreb
private double room will
typically cost only 200kn,
L4 t 020 433 520 t www. stands out from the and can be a good option.
hotelimaestral.com t KK mass of hotels in Lapad Remember to ask to
due to its size (it has just see photographs and the
Dubrovnik 23 rooms) and the fact location on a map before
£ Apartment that it is housed not in a accepting, as quality and
Source, Dubrovnik concrete block but in an accessibility vary greatly.
An American couple have attractive period property.
opened this vacation
rental service. You can
Just 5 minutes from the
beach, this is a good ) Local Tourist
Agencies
search the website for budget option. d Šetalište Many individuals offer
available properties using Kralja Zvonimira 27 t Map private accommodation
different criteria and book L4 t 020 438 930 t www. through tourist agencies.
online. Good discounts hotels-sumratin.comt KK If you call at doors
and special offers are showing sobe (rooms)
available. d www.
dubrovnikapartmentsource. & Zadar
Hostel
Youth signs, it is common to
be directed to these
com t KK Zadar’s modern 290-bed centrally located offices.
hostel is in the suburb Staff can be reluctant to
$ Vila Micika,
Dubrovnik
of Borik, 5 km (3 miles)
from the historic centre.
help if you plan to stay in
the accommodation for
Simple accommodation is It has its own sports less than three days, but
on offer here in a typically ground, restaurant and persistence can pay off.

116 Recommend your favourite hotel on traveldk.com


Price Categories
For accommodation K under 450kn
for two people per KK 450–900kn
night (with breakfast KKK 900–1,350kn
if included), taxes KKKK 1,350–1,800kn
and extra charges. KKKKK over 1,800kn

Streetsmart
Camping Trsteno, Trsteno

Self-catering & Campsites


!Camping Solitudo,
Dubrovnik $ Camping
Šibenik
Solaris,
& Tapestry Holidays
You can rent private
The closest campsite to This campsite’s 500-plus accommodation on
Dubrovnik’s Old City is spaces are part of the the Pelješac Peninsula,
just a 10-minute bus ride sprawling Solaris Holiday Korčula or Lopud, or in
away. It has 238 pitches, Resort. Camping Solaris Dubrovnik or Cavtat,
a modest restaurant and itself enjoys a pleasant through this British
an outdoor swimming location amid pine trees company. Properties are
pool. Surrounded by pine just 50 m (160 ft) from selected for their charm,
trees, it is 200 m (650 ft) the sea. The campsite setting and views. d 020
from the shore. There are may never feel exclusive, 8995 7787 (UK) t www.
reduced rates for under but guests can use the tapestryholidays.com
12s, making this a resort’s myriad facilities,
popular family option.
d Vatroslava Lisinskog 17
including its indoor and
outdoor pools. d Hotelsko * Dalma Holidays
This Croatian villa
t.BQ-tt Naselje Solaris bb t Map rental specialist has just
www.camping-adriatic.com C4 t 022 364 000 t www. over a dozen, largely
t Closed mid-Oct–Mar t K solaris.hr t Closed Dec– seafront properties close
mid-Mar t K to Zadar in the villages of
@ Camping Kalac,
Korčula Town
Kožino and Petrčane. All

Just 2 km (1 mile) from % Camping


Adriatic, Orebić
have been finished to a
high standard. d 020
the historic centre of A blissfully small 8677 2655 (UK) t www.
Korčula Town and 50 m campsite by Dalmatian dalmaholidays.co.uk
(160 ft) from a beach, this standards, the Adriatic
campsite accommodates
up to 600 people. Its
has spaces for just 60
tents or motor homes. ( Simply Travel
The emphasis at
facilities include a shop Nestling among pine and Simply Travel is on
and a restaurant. Under olive trees, it is set back organizing self-catering
12s pay a reduced rate. from a pebble beach and apartment rentals on the
There is a small extra has good views across islands of Brač, Hvar,
charge for parking. to Korčula. d Mokalo 6 Korčula and Lopud, as
d Adjacent to Bon Repos t Map H1 t 020 714 328 well as in Dubrovnik.
Hotel t Map H1 t 020 711 t www.adriatic-mikulic.hr d 0871 231 4050 (UK)
182 t www.korcula.net t Closed Oct–Mar t K t www.simplytravel.co.uk
t Closed Oct–May t K

^ Croatian Villas
) Croatian Affair
£ Camping
Trsteno
Trsteno, This London-based
agent arranges rentals
This UK-based
company manages a
Located up the hill from throughout Croatia. The range of attractive private
the Trsteno Arboretum, company’s portfolio of villas and apartments in
this pleasant small-scale properties on Dalmatia’s central and southern
campsite is situated mainland and islands is Dalmatia. Many of the
amid olive groves. extensive. Villas and properties have pools,
Stairs provide access apartments vary in size, and most are located
for guests to a pebble typically accommodating in spectacular natural
beach. On-site facilities between two and six settings. Check out Vrnik
include a shop and a guests, though larger Castle on the island of
restaurant. d Potok 4 groups can be catered the same name. d 020
t Map K2 t 020 751 060 for. d 020 8888 6655 (UK)  6,
tXXX
t Closed Oct–Mar t K tXXXDSPBUJBOWJMMBTDPN croatianaffair.com

117
General Index
A bars (cont.) breakfast 109
Adio Mare (Korčula Town) Central Dalmatia 86 Brela 82
48, 97 Dubrovnik 65 Brodarica
Adriana (Split) 114 Northern Dalmatia 78 restaurants 48, 79
Index

Adriatic (Dubrovnik) 116 opening hours 100 budget travel 107


Adriatic Highway 107 Southern Dalmatia 96 accommodation 116
adventure sports 53 basketball 45 Bukovac, Vlaho 60, 93
air travel 103, 107 Bassano, Jacopo da 17 bureaux de change 105
Alan (Starigrad-Paklenica) Beach Bar (Pelješac buses 101, 103, 107
111 Peninsula) 93, 96 Buža (Dubrovnik) 8, 65
alcohol 50, 106 Beach Café (Lumbarda) 96 Byron, Lord 36, 58
Alexander III, Pope 39 beach volleyball 45
Algoritam (Dubrovnik) 63 beaches 42–3, 52 C
All Saint’s Church Dubrovnik 66 Café Festival (Dubrovnik)
(Korčula Town) 17 Korčula Town 17 10
ambulances 104 Bebić (Lumbarda) 97 cafés
Amfora (Hvar Town) 112 Bella Vista (Pelješac Central Dalmatia 86
Amfora (Orebič) 97 Peninsula) 96 Dubrovnik 65
Ančić, Mario 45 Bellevue (Dubrovnik) 110 Internet cafés 105
Andrijić, Nikola and Josip Bellevue (Orebić) 113 Northern Dalmatia 78
61 Bellevue (Split) 112 opening hours 100
Angelico, Fra Belltower (Dubrovnik) 23 Southern Dalmatia 96
St Cosmas and St Damian Biograd Na Moru 76 Caffe Bar Forum (Zadar)
before Diocletian 25 Biser (Pag) 111 78
animal bites 104 Bishop’s Palace (Korčula camping 53, 117
apartments 53, 115, 116 Town) 17 Camping Adriatic (Orebić)
Aquarium (Dubrovnik) 61, Biševo 84 117
62 bites and stings 104 Camping Kalac
Archaeological Museum Blaise, St (Korčula Town) 117
(Split) 24, 40 Church of St Blaise Camping Solaris (Šibenik)
Archaeological Museum (Dubrovnik) 11, 38–9, 59 117
(Vis Town) 41 Feast of St Blaise 54 Camping Solitudo
Archaeological Museum paintings of 13 (Dubrovnik) 117
(Zadar) 31, 41 relics 13, 39, 59 Camping Trsteno (Trsteno)
Argentina (Dubrovnik) 110 statues of 8, 11, 15, 61 117
Arka (Dubrovnik) 68 Votive Church Carnival 54
Arneri Palace (Dubrovnik) 66 Carpaccio 17
(Korčula Town) 17 Blue Grotto (Biševo) 84 Carpe Diem (Dubrovnik)
Arsia (Split) 51 Blue Lake 85 64
Art Café (Makarska) 86 boats Carpe Diem (Hvar Town)
Art Silver Shop boat trips 9, 67 86
(Dubrovnik) 63 cruises 103, 108 cars 103
arts and crafts ferries 52, 101, 103 breakdowns 104
shops in Korčula Town sailing 26, 45, 46–7, 103 driving in Croatia 107
17 sea kayaking 44 ferries 103
things to buy 51 bočanje 45 hiring 53, 103, 107
Artur Galerija (Dubrovnik) Bokar Fort (Dubrovnik) 9 cash machines 105, 106
51 Bol 83 Castle Antonio 113
Atlas Club Nautika hotels 114 cathedrals 38–9
(Dubrovnik) 49, 69 nightlife 86 Dubrovnik 39, 59
Aurora (Primošten) 78 restaurants 87 St Anastasia (Zadar) 31,
books, further reading 100 39
B Bošković, Ruđer 12 St Domnius (Split) 22
Babin Kuk Peninsula 66 Brač 40, 80, 83, 84 St James (Šibenik)
Baćina Lakes 94 beaches 42 7, 28–9, 37, 38
Bačvice (Split) 25, 45, 86 cafés, bars and nightlife St Lawrence (Trogir) 18,
Badija 95 86 38
banks, opening hours 100 hotels 114 St Mark’s (Korčula Town)
Baptistry (Split) 23 museums 41 16
bars 106 Brajkov, Mihoje 12 St Stephen (Hvar) 37, 39

118
Cavtat 93 credit cards 105, 106 Dubrovnik (cont.)
cafés, bars and nightlife crime 104, 107 beaches 42, 66
96 Croata (Dubrovnik) 63 cafés and bars 65
hotels 113 Croatia Hotel (Cavtat ) 113 campsites 117
restaurants 97 Croatian Affair 117 Cathedral 39, 59
Central Dalmatia 80–7 Croatian National Theatre Church of St Blaise

Index
cafés, bars and nightlife 55 38–9, 59
86 Croatian Villas 117 excursions 67
excursions 85 cruises 103, 108 festivals and events 54,
hotels 112 Crusaders 34 55
islands 83, 84 Crveno Jezero 85 Franciscan Monastery
map 80 culture 100 12–13
restaurants 87 currency 105 hotels 110, 114, 116
Cetina Gorge 44, 85 customs allowances 101, map 58
children 102 106 museums 40
amusements 52–3 cycling 53 nightlife 64
in hotels 102, 109 Čilipi 94 Old City Walls 6, 8–9
churches 38–9 Čiovo 18, 84 old town 36
Church of the Holy hotels 112 public statues 41
Cross (Nin) 38 Ćipiko Palace (Trogir) 19 Rector’s Palace 6,
Church of our Lady 14–15, 55, 59, 61
(Korčula Town) 17 D restaurants 49, 68–9
St Blaise (Dubrovnik) 11, Dalma Holidays 117 sailing routes 46, 47
38–9, 59 Dalmatinac, Juraj shopping 63
St Donat (Zadar) 31, 39, Cathedral of St Domnius Stradun 6, 10–11, 59, 61
54 (Split) 22 walk in 61
St Elijah (Zadar) 31 Cathedral of St James Dubrovnik Apartment
St Francis (Dubrovnik) 12 (Šibenik) 28, 29, 38 Source 116
St Ignatius (Dubrovnik) 62 Pag Town 37 Dubrovnik Hotel
St John the Baptist statues of 41 (Dubrovnik) 110
(Trogir) 19 dance, Moreška 17, 55 Dubrovnik Palace
St Luke (Dubrovnik) 62 Debelić, Zoran 51 (Dubrovnik) 110
St Michael (Komiža) 39 debit cards 105, 106 Dubrovnik President
St Nicholas (Nin) 38 Defne (Dubrovnik) 69 (Dubrovnik) 110
St Saviour (Dubrovnik) Diocletian, Emperor 22, Dubrovnik Youth Hostel 116
11, 55 25, 35 Dugi Otok 27, 77, 115
St Simeon (Zadar) 30 birthplace 81 restaurants 79
Votive Church Diocletian’s Palace (Split) sailing routes 46
(Dubrovnik) 66 7, 22–3, 36, 51, 81 duty-free allowances 101,
City Beach (Dubrovnik) 66 Dioklecijanova (Split) 51 106
City Museum (Split) 23 disabled travellers 102
city walls discounts 106 E
Dubrovnik 6, 8–9, 59, 61 student 102 earthquake (1667) 11
Korčula Town 16 diving 44 economy 100
Civic Museum (Trogir) 18 doctors 104 electricity 100
climate 101 dolls 50 embassies 101
climbing 44 Dominican Monastery emergencies 104
Clock Tower (Trogir) 19 (Dubrovnik) 59 Esperanza (Dubrovnik) 64
Clocktower (Dubrovnik) 11 Domino (Dubrovnik) 69 Ethnographic Museum
clothes driving in Dalmatia 103, Rupe (Dubrovnik) 62
things to buy 50, 51 107 Excelsior (Dubrovnik) 110
what to pack 101 Northern Dalmatia 75 restaurants 49, 69
Club Hacienda (Vodice) 78 Pelješac Peninsula 93 exchange services 105
coastal walk (Split) 25 Drvenik Mali 84 excursions
consulates 101 Drvenik Veli 84 Central Dalmatia 85
Convent of St Claire Držić, Marin Dubrovnik 67
(Dubrovnik) 62 Marin Držić House Exodus (Dubrovnik) 64
Convent of St Nicholas (Dubrovnik) 62 extreme sports 45
(Trogir) 19 Dubrovačka Kuća
Copacabana Beach 66 (Dubrovnik) 51, 63 F
Ćosić, Krešimir 45 Dubrovnik 58–69 F1 (Trogir) 86
crafts 51 arts and crafts 51 Faces Club (Bol) 86

119
ferries 52, 101, 103 Grapelli, Marino 59 Hvar Town (cont.)
Festival Café (Dubrovnik) Greek settlers 34 hotels 112
65 Grgur Ninski (Gregory of old town 36–7
festivals and events 54–5 Nin) 35, 41 restaurants 87
Firentinac, Nikola 19 group travel 102, 107 venues 55
Cathedral of St James Gruž Harbour (Dubrovnik) I
Index

(Šibenik) 28, 29, 38 66 identity cards 104


Fish Market (Split) 24 Gubavica Falls 85 insurance 101, 104
Fish Sandwich Bar Gučetić family 92 International Children’s
(Dubrovnik) 68 Gundulić, Ivan 13 Festival (Šibenik) 53
Five Wells Square (Zadar) Ivan Gundulić Memorial Internet 105, 109
30 (Dubrovnik) 12 Irish Pub Karaka (Dubrovnik)
flights, scenic 67 portrait of 14 65
Fontana (Trogir) 112 statues of 41, 62 Iron Gate (Split) 23
food and drink 49, 107 Gundulićeva Poljana islands
picnics 106 (Dubrovnik) 61, 62 Central Dalmatia 84
things to buy 50 island-hopping 83
see also restaurants H island retreats 115
football 45 handicrafts 51 Northern Dalmatia 77
Fort of St Nicholas happy hours 106 Southern Dalmatia 95
(Šibenik) 55, 76 health 104 Ivan (Bol) 114
fortifications 52 Hemingway Bar Ivan Gundulić Memorial
Fortress of St Saviour (Dubrovnik) 64 (Dubrovnik) 12
(Knin) 76 Hermitage of Blaca (Brač) Ivanišević, Goran 25, 45
Forum Café (Zadar) 30 41 Iž 77
Foša (Zadar) 75, 79 hiking 44
Franciscan Monastery Hilton Imperial (Dubrovnik) J
(Dubrovnik) 11, 12–13 110 Jadran (Dubrovnik) 68
Fresh (Korčula Town) 96 hiring cars 53, 103, 107 Jadran (Šibenik) 111
history 34–5 Janjina 93, 94
G holidays, public 101 Jegerstar (Dubrovnik) 63
Gabriellis Palace hospitals 104 Jelačić, Ban Josip 35
(Korčula Town) 17 hostels 116 jewellery 50
Gaffe (Dubrovnik) 65 Hotel Dubrovnik Palace Job, Ignjat
galleries see museums (Dubrovnik) 69 Olive Trees 60
and galleries Hotel Korčula
Gallery Anima (Zadar) 51 (Korčula Town) 96 K
Gallery More (Zadar) 51 Hotel Odisej (Mljet Kamenica (Dubrovnik) 68
Gallery Pia (Zadar) 51 National Park) 115 Kamerlengo Fortress
Gallery Stradun Hotel Restaurant Biser (Trogir) 18
(Dubrovnik) 51 (Pag Town) 79 Kapetanova Kuća
Garagnin Palace (Trogir) 18 Hotel Šipan (Šipan) 115 (Mali Ston) 97
The Garden (Zadar) 78 Hotel Villa Vilina (Lopud) Karmen Apartments
gardens see parks and 115 (Dubrovnik) 116
gardens hotels 110–16 Kaštela 81
gay and lesbian travellers budget travel 107, 116 Katie O’Connor’s
102 Central Dalmatia 112 (Dubrovnik) 65
Ghetto Club (Split) 86 characterful hotels 114 Katina 27
Giacometti, Pietro 14 children in 53, 102, 109 Kavana Dubravka
Gil’s (Dubrovnik) 69 Dubrovnik 110, 114, 116 (Dubrovnik) 65
Goddard, Wade 60 island retreats 115 kayaking 44
Golden Gate (Split) 23 Northern Dalmatia 111 Klis 82
Gotham (Zadar) 78 reservations 101, 107, Klub Orlando (Dubrovnik)
government 100 109 64
Gradac 82 resort hotels 52 Knin
beaches 43 Southern Dalmatia 113 Fortress of St Saviour 76
Gradska Kavana Hvar 80, 84 Koločep 95
(Dubrovnik) 14, 65 Hvar Town 83 beaches 43
Gradska Vjećnica (Šibenik) cafés, bars and nightlife Kolona (Cavtat) 97
28, 79 86 Kolovare (Zadar) 111
Grand Villa Argentina Cathedral of St Stephen Komiža
(Dubrovnik) 110 37, 39 Church of St Michael 39

120
Kompas (Dubrovnik) 110 libertas 9, 60 Mesić, Stjepan 35, 100
Konavle 93 Liburna (Korčula Town) 113 Meštrović, Ivan 8, 51, 60,
safaris 67 lighthouses 109, 115 82, 93
Konoba “85” (Novalja) 79 Livno 85 Distant Agreements 40
Konoba Bačvara Loggia, Rector’s Palace Meštrović Gallery (Split)
(Lastovo Town) 97 (Dubrovnik) 14 24, 40

Index
Konoba Branimir (Nin) 79 Loggia (Trogir) 19 Otavice 75, 76
Konoba Marko Polo Lokanda Peskarija statue of Grgur Ninski 41
(Korčula Town) 96 (Dubrovnik) 68 statue of Ivan Gundulić
Korčula Hotel Lokrum 39, 66, 95 41
(Korčula Town) 113 Lopud 95 statue of John the
Korčula 14, 92, 95 hotels 115 Baptist 23
sailing routes 46 Lovrijenac Fortress statue of Marko Marulić
Korčula Town 6, 16–17, 91, (Dubrovnik) 61 41
93 Lumbarda 17, 94 Michelozzi, Michelozzo 9
cafés, bars and nightlife beaches 43 Miličević, Paskoje 61
96 cafés, bars and nightlife Minčeta Fort (Dubrovnik) 8
campsites 117 96 Miošić, Father Andrija
hotels 113 restaurants 97 Kačić 41
old town 36 Luxor Café (Split) 22 Mlini 67
restaurants 48, 97 Luža Square (Dubrovnik) 61 Mlinica Taverna (Orebić) 97
venues 55 Mljet
Kornat 27 M restaurants 97
Kornati Islands 77, 115 Macondo (Hvar Town) 87 Mljet National Park 92, 115
sailing routes 46 Majsan 95 mobile phones 105
Kornati National Park 7, Makarska Modro Jezero 85
26–7, 72, 77 cafés, bars and nightlife Monastery (Cavtat ) 113
Kotor 67 86 Monastery Museum
Krapanj 74 Makarska Monument 41 (Dubrovnik) 13
Kristijan (Roški Slap) 20 Makarska Riviera 82 money 105, 106
Krka Monastery 21 Majoli, Iva 45 Moreška 17, 55
Krka National Park 7, 20–1, Mala Proversa waterway 27 Mosor 85
52, 72, 73, 75 Mali Ston 92, 93 Mostar 67, 85
Kršinić, Frano 60 hotels 113 Mount Srđ 66
Krupa Monastery 76 restaurants 48, 97 Movie Resort Hotel
Kula Norinska 94 Malo More 93 (Tribunj) 111
Kut (Vis) 37, 83 Mamilo (Lastovo Town) 96 Murter 26, 27, 77, 115
Mana 27 sailing routes 46
L Marco Polo House Museums and galleries
Labirint (Dubrovnik) 64 (Korčula Town) 17 40–1
lace 50–1 Marin Držić House opening hours 107
Land Gate (Korčula Town) (Dubrovnik) 62 Archaeological Museum
16 Maritime Museum (Split) 24, 40
Land Gate (Trogir) 19 (Dubrovnik) 9, 40, 61 City Museum (Split) 23
Land Gate (Zadar) 30 Marival (Zadar) 79 Civic Museum (Trogir) 18
landmines 104 Marjan Hill (Split) 24 Ethnographic Museum
language 100, 107 markets 107 Rupe (Dubrovnik) 62
Lapad Bay 66 Marmontova (Split) 24 Marin Držić House
Lapad Peninsula 66 Marmont’s Gazebo (Trogir) (Dubrovnik) 62
Lastovo 95, 115 19 Maritime Museum
sailing routes 46–7 Marin Držić Theatre (Dubrovnik) 9, 40, 61
Lastovo Town (Dubrovnik) 55 Meštrović Gallery (Split)
cafés, bars and nightlife Marulić, Marko 24, 40
96 statue of 41 Monastery Museum
old town 37 Mary, Queen of Scots 17 (Dubrovnik) 13
restaurants 97 Massimo (Korčula Town) Museum of Croatian
Latino Club Fuego 16, 96 Archaeological
(Dubrovnik) 64 Maya Pub (Zadar) 78 Monuments (Split) 40
lavender 51 Mea Culpa (Dubrovnik) 68 Museum of Modern Art
Lavsa 27 medication 101 (Dubrovnik) 60
Lazareti (Dubrovnik) 64 Među Gredama Gorge 21 Museum of the Island
Lero (Dubrovnik) 110 Međugorje 67 of Brač (Škrip) 40

121
Museums and galleries old towns 36–7, 107 Pelješac Peninsula 90
(cont.) older travellers 102 bars 96
Town Museum Omega 3 (Dubrovnik) 63 a drive along 93
(Korčula Town) 17 Omiš 83 vineyards 91
Tusculum (Solin) 40 Onofrio’s Large Fountain Perin Dvor (Nin) 116
Vlaho Bukovac Gallery (Dubrovnik) 10 Peristil (Split) 114
Index

(Cavtat) 93 Onofrio’s Little Fountain Petrović, Dražen 45


War Photo Limited (Dubrovnik) 11 Petrović, Leonardo 12
(Dubrovnik) 60 Open Air Theatre Petrović, Petar 12
Mussolini, Benito 74 (Korčula Town) 55 pets 102
opening hours 100, 106 pharmacies 104
N Orašac 94 pickpockets 104, 107
Napoleon I, Emperor 35, Orebić 91, 93 picnics 106
60 beaches 42 pidgin 45
Narodni Trg (Split) 24 cafés 96 Pile Gate (Dubrovnik) 8
Narodni Trg (Zadar) 31 campsite 117 Piškera 27
National Museum (Zadar) hotels 113 Plitvice Lakes 85
41 restaurants 97 Ploče Gate (Dubrovnik) 8
national parks Orlando’s Column Pločica Lighthouse 115
Kornati 7, 26–7, 72, 77 (Dubrovnik) 11, 41 Poklisar (Dubrovnik) 68
Krka 7, 20–1, 52, 72, 73, Orsan (Zaton) 97 Polače 92
75 Ostrea (Mali Ston) 113 police 104
Mljet 92, 115 Otavice 75, 76 Polo, Marco
Paklenica 52, 73, 76 Ottoman Empire 16, 34 birthplace 16, 36, 92
Nečven Fortress 21 Our Lady of the Belfry Marco Polo House
Neretva Delta 91 (Split) 23 (Korčula Town) 17
Netcafe (Dubrovnik) 65 outdoor activities 44–5 post offices 105
newspapers 105 opening hours 100
nightlife P Potomje 93
Central Dalmatia 86 package holidays 107 Pracat, Miho
Dubrovnik 64 Pag 77 statue of 14
Northern Dalmatia 78 beaches 43 President (Zadar) 114
Southern Dalmatia 96 cafés, bars and nightlife Pridriga
Nin 72, 74 78 public statues 41
beaches 42 hotels 111 Primošten 74
Church of St Nicholas 38 Pag Town hotels 111
Church of the Holy nightlife 78 nightlife 78
Cross 38 old town 37 restaurants 79
hotels 116 public statues 41 Prišnjak Lighthouse
public statues 41 restaurants 79 (Murter) 115
restaurants 79 Pagus (Pag) 111 Prvić 77
Northern Dalmatia 72–9 Pakleni Islands 84 Pržina Bay
cafés, bars and nightlife beaches 42 beaches 43
78 Paklenica National Park Proto (Dubrovnik) 69
drive in 75 52, 73, 76 public holidays 101
hotels 111 Palača Dešković (Brač) Pucić family 59
islands 77 114 Pucić Palace (Dubrovnik)
map 72 Palača Paladini (Hvar Town) 114
restaurants 79 87 Puls 2 (Split) 86
Nostromo (Split) 48, 87 Palace (Hvar Town) 112 Pustijerna (Dubrovnik) 62
Novalja 78 Palagruža 95
beaches 43 Palagruža Lighthouse 95, R
restaurants 79 115 Rab
Novigrad 72, 75 Panorama 111 sailing routes 47
No. 4 Club (Šibenik) 78 Paolo Veneziano 59 Račić family 93
Papalić Palace (Split) 23 radio 100
O Park (Split) 112 Radovan 18, 38
Ogigija (Mljet) 97 parks and gardens rafting 44
Old City Walls (Dubrovnik) Trsteno Arboretum 92 Ragusa, Republic of 9, 34
6, 8–9, 59, 61 passports 101, 104 dissolution 60
Old Harbour (Dubrovnik) Pašman 77 Napoleonic wars 35
60 Pavelić, Ante 35 prison cells 15

122
Ragusa, Republic of (cont.) St John the Baptist (Trogir) Southern Dalmatia (cont.)
Rector’s Palace 19 restaurants 97
(Dubrovnik) 14–15 St John’s Fort (Dubrovnik) souvenirs 50–1
Ston 91 9, 60, 61 Spaghetteria Toni
Raphael 59 St John’s Fortress (Dubrovnik) 68
Razonoda Wine Bar (Šibenik) 76 speed limits 103

Index
(Dubrovnik) 65 St Luke (Dubrovnik) 62 spirits 50
Rector’s Palace (Dubrovnik) St Michael (Komiža) 39 Split 24–5, 80, 83
6, 14–15, 55, 59, 61 St Michael (Korčula Town) arts and crafts 51
Red Lake 85 17 cafés, bars and nightlife
religion 100 St Nicholas (Nin) 38 86
resort hotels 52 St Saviour’s Church Diocletian’s Palace 7,
Restaurant Fontana (Dubrovnik) 11, 55 22–3, 36, 51, 81
(Trogir) 49 St Simeon (Zadar) 30 festivals and events 55
Restaurant Foša (Zadar) 48 St Stephen’s Cathedral hotels 112, 114
Restaurant Perin Dvor (Hvar Town) 37, 39 museums 40
(Nin) 79 sales tax 106 old town 36
restaurants 48–9, 106, 107 Salona 22, 80, 81 pidgin 45
Central Dalmatia 87 Saloon (Pag Town) 78 public statues 41
children in 53 San Giorgio (Vis Town) 112 restaurants 48, 87
Dubrovnik 68–9 Sanmicheli, Michele 30 sailing routes 46, 47
Northern Dalmatia 79 La Scarpa (Dubrovnik) 63 Split Hotel (Split) 112
opening hours 100 scuba diving 44 Sponza Palace (Dubrovnik)
Southern Dalmatia 97 sea kayaking 44 11, 55, 61
tipping 106 Sea Organ (Zadar) 31 sports 44–5
vegetarian meals 102 Sebastian (Dubrovnik) 51 Srebreno 67
see also food and drink security 104 Stari Grad Hotel
Restoran Dalmacija self-catering 117 (Dubrovnik) 114
(Primošten) 79 Serbian Orthodox Starigrad Paklenica 76
Restoran Fontana (Trogir) Museum (Dubrovnik) 62 hotels 111
87 Sesame (Dubrovnik) 68 statues, public 41
Restoran Monika (Trogir) 87 Shaw, George Bernard 26, Stellon (Split) 48, 87
Restoran Pojoda (Vis Town) 58 Ston 91, 93
87 shopping Stone Cottages
Revelin Fort (Dubrovnik) 8, Dubrovnik 63 (Kornati Islands) 115
60 food and drink 106 Stradun (Dubrovnik) 6,
Revlin Club (Dubrovnik) 64 opening hours 106 10–11, 59, 61
Richard the Lionheart 39 things to buy 50–1 Strossmayer, Juraj 35
Riva (Cavtat) 96 Silba 77 Struga Lighthouse
Riva (Hvar Town) 112 Simeon, St 30 (Lastovo) 115
Riva (Split) 24 Simply Travel 117 students 102
Riva (Trogir) 18, 19 Sinj 85 sun precautions 104, 107
roads 103 Sisak, Battle of (1593) 34 Sunset Lounge
Rodin, Auguste 82 Skradin 20, 21, 72, 75 (Dubrovnik) 65
Rogoznica 76 hotels 111 Sunset Strip (Šibenik) 78
Roman Empire 34 Skradinski Buk (Skradin) Sušac 95
Roman Forum (Zadar) 31 20, 111 Sušac Lighthouse 95, 115
Roški Slap 20, 21 Slavic tribes 34 Sveti Stefan 67
Rozarij (Dubrovnik) 69 Slavija (Split) 112 swimming 45, 53
Smokvica (Trogir) 86 Synagogue (Dubrovnik) 62
S snorkelling 45 Šćedro 84
sailing 45, 103 society and culture 100 Šibenik 27, 72
Kornati Islands 26 Solin cafés, bars and nightlife
routes 46–7 museums 40 78
top tips 47 Southern Dalmatia 90–7 campsite 117
St Blaise (Dubrovnik) 11, cafés, bars and nightlife Cathedral of St James 7,
38–9, 59 96 28–9, 37, 38
St Donat’s Church (Zadar) hotels 113 Fort of St Nicholas 76
31, 39, 54 islands 95 hotels 111
St Elijah (Zadar) 31 map 90 old town 37, 73
St Francis (Dubrovnik) 12 Pelješac Peninsula drive public statues 41
St Ignatius (Dubrovnik) 62 93 restaurants 79

123
Šibenik (cont.) Tuđman, Franjo 35 volleyball 45
St John’s Fortress 76 statue of 41 Votive Church (Dubrovnik) 66
venues 55 Tuđman Bridge Vrana, Lake 75, 76
Šibenik Archipelago (Dubrovnik) 66
sailing routes 46 W
Šibenik Theatre 55 U walking 44
Index

Šipan 95 Ugljan 77 in Dubrovnik 61


Škola (Dubrovnik) 68 UNESCO World Heritage walls see city walls
Škrip Sites 93 War Photo Limited
museums 40 Cathedral of St James (Dubrovnik) 60
Šolta 84 (Šibenik) 7, 28, 38 wars 107
Šumica (Split) 87 Diocletian’s Palace (Split) water, drinking 100
22 water polo 45
T Plitvice Lakes 85 waterfalls
Tamaris (Dugi Otok) 79 Trogir 7, 18–19 Gubavica Falls 85
Tapestry Holidays 117 Uvala (Dubrovnik) 110 Roški Slap 21
Taverna (Bol) 87 Skradinski Buk 20
tax refunds 106 V Waterfront (Orebić) 96
taxis 103, 106 vegetarian meals 102 weather 101
Telašćica Nature Park Veli Rat Lighthouse wildlife
beaches 42–3 (Dugi Otok) 115 Kornati National Park 27
telephones 105 Venerada (Hvar Town) 86 Krka National Park 21
television 105 Venice 34 Neretva Delta 91
tennis 45 venues 55 windsurfing 44
theft 104, 107 Vicko (Starigrad-Paklenica) wine 50, 106
Tilda (Dubrovnik) 63 111 women travellers 102
time 100 Victoria Restaurant working in Croatia 102
timetables 101 (Dubrovnik) 69
tipping 106 Vid 94 Z
Titian 39, 59 Vidilica (Split) 86 Zadar 27, 34, 75
Tito, Marshal 35 Viganj 94 arts and crafts 51
Tomislav, King 34, 35 Vila Dubrovnik (Dubrovnik) cafés, bars and nightlife
tourist agencies 116 69 78
tourist information 101 Vila Kaliopa (Vis Town) 48, Cathedral of St
towers 52 87 Anastasia 39
Town Hall (Korčula Town) Vila Koruna (Mali Ston) 48, Church of St Donat 39
16 97, 113 festivals and events 54,
Town Museum Vila Micika (Dubrovnik) 116 55
(Korčula Town) 17 Vila Neretva (Neretva hotels 111, 114
Town Theatre (Hvar) 55 Delta) 113 museums 41
travel 101, 103, 107 Vila Sikaa (Čiovo) 112 old town 7, 30–1, 36, 72,
travel insurance 101, 104 Villa Dubrovnik (Dubrovnik) 73
Trebinje 67 114 restaurants 48, 79
Trg Republike (Split) 25 Villa Koša (Primošten) 111 sailing routes 47
Tribunj 74 Villa Kvaternik (Cavtat) 113 siege of 31
hotels 111 Villa Orsula (Dubrovnik) 114 Zadar Archipelago
Trogir 7, 18–19, 80 Villa Wolff (Dubrovnik) 114 sailing routes 46
bars 86 vineyards Zadar Youth Hostel 116
Cathedral of St Pelješac Peninsula 91 Zadvarje 85
Lawrence 18, 38 Vinoteka (Dubrovnik) 63 Zagreb (Dubrovnik) 116
hotels 112 Vis 37, 80, 83, 84 Zaostrog 83
old town 36, 81 restaurants 48 Zaton
restaurants 49, 87 sailing routes 46 restaurants 97
sailing routes 46–7 Vis Town Zlarin 77
Troubadur Hard Jazz Café hotels 112 Zlatna Ribica (Brodarica)
(Dubrovnik) 64 museums 41 48, 79
Trpanj 94 restaurants 87 Zlatni Rat (Brač) 42
Trstenik 94 visas 101 Zrće (Novalja) 78
Trsteno Visovac, Lake 20, 21 Zrće
campsite 117 Visovac Monastery 21 beaches 43
Trsteno Arboretum 92 Vodice Zrmanja Gorge 76
Tusculum (Solin) 40 cafés, bars and nightlife 78 Živogošće 83

124
Acknowledgments
The Authors Picture Credits
Based in Scotland, Robin and Jenny Placement Key: t–top; tc–top centre;
McKelvie are a formidable husband-and- tl–top left; tr–top right; cla–centre left above;

Acknowledgments
wife travel-writing team. Between them ca–centre above; cra–centre right above;
they have visited more than 70 countries, cl–centre left; c–centre; cr–centre right;
and have co-authored guides to Croatia, clb–centre left below; cb–centre below;
Latvia, Slovenia and Dubai. crb–centre right below; bl–below left;
bc–below centre; br–below right; b–bottom.
Thanks to the Croatian National Tourist
Board, especially Andrea Petrov and Renata Every effort has been made to trace
Dezeljin in Zagreb, and Josip Lozić in the copyright holders and we apologize
London. Thanks also to Zrinka Marinović in advance for any unintentional omissions.
and Nikolina Vicelić at Adriatic Luxury We would be pleased to insert the
Hotels in Dubrovnik. appropriate acknowledgments in any
subsequent edition of this publication.
Produced by DP Services, a division
of Duncan Petersen Publishing Ltd. The publishers would like to thank the
following individuals, companies and
Editorial Director Chris Barstow
picture libraries for permission to
Designer Ian Midson
reproduce their photographs:
Copy Editor Jane Oliver-Jedrzejak
Fact-checker Katarina Bulić ANCIENT ART AND ARCHITECTURE

Proofreader Antony Mason COLLECTION: 25c, 35tr.

Indexer Hilary Bird ALAMY Jon Arnold 42tr, 70–71; f1 92b,

Picture Researcher Helen Stallion Chris Howes/Wild Places Photography 44tl,


Loetscher Chlaus 46tr, Robert Mullan 14–15,
Main Photographer Antony Souter Eitan Simanor 52c, Duncan Soar 46c,
Additional Photography Lucio Rossi, Swerve 55tl.
Leandro Zoppé BRIDGEMAN: Church of San Marco,
Illustrator Chapel Design & Marketing Florence, Italy, Giraudon/Bridgeman 25b,
Maps Mapping Ideas Ltd Crown Estate 35tl, Palazzo Ducale, Venice,
FOR DORLING KINDERSLEY Italy, Cameraphoto Arte Venezia 34tr.
Publisher Douglas Amrine CORBIS: Bettmann 35br, Matko Biljak/
Publishing Managers Kate Poole, Anna Reuters 54tl, Jonathan Blair 54tr, Charles
Streiffert Jean Marc/Sygma 54c, Tim Page 34b.
Senior Designer Maite Lantaron ROBERT HARDING PICTURE LIBRARY:
Senior Cartographic Editor Casper Travel Library 46tl, 56–57.
Morris REX FEATURES: Sipa Press 34tl.
Senior DTP Designer Jason Little All other images © Dorling Kindersley. For
Production Controller Linda Dare more information see www.dkimages.com

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125
Phrase Book
Pronounciation Guide early rano ranoh
c – “ts” as in rats č – “ch” as in church late kasno kasnoh
ć – “t” as in tube đ – “d” as in endure entrance ulaz oolaz
g – “g” as in get j – “y” as in yes exit izlaz eezlaz
š – “sh” as in shoe ž – “J” as in Jacques toilet WC Vey tsey
Phrase Book

“aj” – “igh” as in night more više veeshey


less manje manyey
In an Emergency
Help! Pomoć! pomoch Shopping
Stop! Stani! stahnee How much Koliko ovo kolikoh ovoh
Call a doctor! Zovite doktora! zoveetey doktorah does this cost? košta? koshta
Call an Zovite hitnu zoveetey heetnoo I would like... Volio bih... volioh bee...
ambulance! pomoć! pomoch Do you have...? Imate li...? eematey lee...
Call the police! Zovite policiju! zoveetey I’m just lookingSamo gledam Samoh gledam
poleetseeyoo Do you take Primate li preematey lee
Call the Zovite zoveetey credit cards? kreditne credeetney
fire brigade! vatrogasce! vatrohgastsay kartice? carteetsey
What time do Kad otvarate/ kad otvaratey/
Communication Essentials you open/close? zatvarate? zatvaratey
Yes da dah This one Ovaj ov-igh
No ne ney That one Onaj on-igh
Please molim vas moleem vas expensive skupo skoopoh
Thank you hvala hvahlah cheap jeftino yefteenoh
Excuse me oprostite oprosteetey size (clothes) veličina veleechinah
Hello dobar dan dobar dan size (shoes) broj broy
Goodbye doviđenja doveedjenya white bijelo beeyeloh
Good night laku noć lakoo noch black crno tsrnoh
Yesterday jučer yoocher red crveno tsrvenoh
Today danas danas yellow žuto zhootoh
Tomorrow sutra sootrah green zeleno zelenoh
Here tu too blue plavo plavoh
There tamo tahmoh bakery pekara pekarah
What? što? shtoh bank banka bankah
When? kada? kada book shop knjižara knyeezharah
Why? zašto? zashtoh butcher’s mesnica mesnitsah
Where? gdje? gdyey cake shop slastičarna slasteecharnah
chemist’s apoteka apohtekah
Useful Phrases fishmonger’s ribarnica reebarnitsah
How are you? Kako ste? kakoh stey market tržnica trzhneetsah
Very well, Dobro, hvala dobroh, hvahlah hairdresser’s frizer freezer
thank you newsagent’s trafika trafeekah
Where is/are...? Gdje je/ su? gdyey yey/ soo post office pošta poshtah
How can I Kako mogu kakoh mogoo
get to...? doći do...? dochee doh... Sightseeing
Do you speak Govorite li govoreetey art gallery galerija galereeyah
English? engleski? lee engleskee umjetnina oomyetneenah
I don’t Ne nay cathedral katedrala katedralah
understand razumijem razoomeeyem church crkva tsrkvah
Could you Molim vas, moleem vas, library knjižnica knyeezhneetsah
speak more možete li mozhetey lee museum muzej moozey
slowly please? govoriti govoreetee tourist turistički tooreesteechkey
sporije? sporiyey information ured oored
I’m sorry Žao mi je zhaoh mee yey centre
bus station autobusni aootoboosnee
Useful Words kolodvor kolodvor
big veliko veleekoh railway station željeznički zhelyeznichkih
small malo mahloh kolodvor kolodvor
hot vruć vrooch
cold hladan hlahdan Staying in a Hotel
good dobar dobar Do you have a Imate li eematey lee
bad loš losh vacant room? sobu? soboo
open otvoreno otvohrenoh double room dvokrevetna dvokrevetnah
closed zatvoreno zatvohrenoh soba sobah
left lijevo leeyevoh single room jednokrevetna yednokrevetnah
right desno desnoh soba sobah
straight on ravno ravnoh room with soba sa sobah sah
near blizu bleezoo a bath kupaonicom koopaoneetsom
far daleko dalekoh shower tuš toosh
up gore gorey I have a Imam eemam
down dolje dolyey reservation rezervaciju rezervatseeyoo

126
Eating Out školjke na shkolkay nah shellfish in
Have you got Imate li eematey lee buzaru boozaroo tomato and onion
a table for...? stol za...? stol zah sauce
I want to Želim Zheleem špageti frutti shpagetee frootee spaghetti with
reserve a table rezervirati rezerveeratee di mare dee marey seafood
stol stol sol sol salt
The bill please Molim vas, moleem vas, tjestenina tjesteneenah pasta

Phrase Book
račun rachoon ulje oolyey oil
I am Ja sam yah sam
a vegetarian vegetarijanac vegetareeyanats Drinks
waiter/waitress konobar/ konobar/ bijelo vino beeyeloh veenoh white wine
konobarica konobaritsah crno vino tsrnoh veenoh red wine
menu jelovnik yelovneek gazirana/ gazeeranah/ sparkling/still
wine list vinska karta veenskah kartah negazirana neygazeeranah mineral water
glass čaša chashah mineralna meeneralnah
bottle boca botsah voda vodah
knife nož nozh čaj ch-igh tea
fork vilica veeleetsa kava kavah coffee
spoon žlica zhleetsah pivo peevoh beer
breakfast doručak doroochak
lunch ručak roochak
Numbers
0 nula noolah
dinner večera vecherah
1 jedan yedan
main course glavno jelo glavnoh yeloh
2 dva dvah
starters predjela predyelah
3 tri tree
4 četiri cheteeree
Menu Decoder
5 pet pet
bijela riba beeyelah reebah “white” fish
6 šest shest
blitva bleetvah Swiss chard
7 sedam sedam
brudet broodet fish stew
8 osam osam
čevapčići chevapcheechee meatballs
9 devet devet
crni rižot tsrnee reezhot black risotto
10 deset deset
desert desert dessert
11 jedanaest yedanighst
glavno jelo glavnoh yeloh main course
12 dvanaest dvahnighst
grah grah beans 13 trinaest treenighst
gulaš goolash goulash 14 četrnaest chetrnighst
jastog yastog lobster 15 petnaest petnighstt
juha yoohah soup 16 šesnaest shestnighst
kuhano koohanoh cooked 17 sedamnaest sedamnighst
maslinovo masleenovoh olive oil 18 osamnaest osamnighst
ulje oolyey 19 devetnaest devetnighst
meso na mesoh nah barbecued meat 20 dvadeset dvahdeset
žaru zharoo 21 dvadeset i dvahdeset ee
miješano meejeshanoh mixed grilled jedan yedan
meso mesoh meats 30 trideset treedeset
na žaru nah zharoo barbecued 31 trideset i treedeset ee
ocat otsat vinegar jedan yedan
palačinke palacheenkay pancakes 40 četrdeset chetrdeset
papar papar pepper 50 pedeset pedeset
pečeno pechenoh baked 60 šezdeset shezdeset
piletina peeleteenah chicken 70 sedamdeset sedamdeset
plava riba plavah reebah “blue” fish 80 osamdeset osamdeset
predjelo predyeloh starters 90 devedeset devedeset
prilog preelog side dish 100 sto stoh
pršut prshoot smoked ham 101 sto i jedan stoh ee yedan
pržene lignje przhene leegnyey fried squid 102 sto i dva stoh ee dvah
prženo przhenoh fried 200 dvjesto dvyestoh
ramsteak ramsteyk rump steak 500 petsto petstoh
ražnjići razhnyeechee pork kebabs 700 sedamsto sedamstoh
riba na reebah nah barbecued fish 900 devetsto devetstoh
žaru zharoo 1,000 tisuću teesoochoo
rižot frutti reezhot frootee seafood risotto
di mare dee marey Time
rižot sa reezhot sah scampi risotto One minute jedna yednah
škampima shkampeemah minuta meenootah
salata salatah salad One hour jedan sat yedan saht
salata od salatah od octopus salad Half an hour pola sata polah sahtah
hobotnice hobotneetsey Monday ponedjeljak ponedyelyak
sarma sarmah cabbage leaves Tuesday utorak ootorak
sir seer cheese Wednesday srijeda sreejedah
sladoled sladoled ice cream Thursday četvrtak chetvrtak
slana srdela slanah srdelah salted sardines Friday petak petak
škampi na shkampee nah scampi in tomato Saturday subota soobotah
buzaru boozaroo and onion sauce Sunday nedjelja nedyelyah

127
Dalmatia Map Index
Aržano F4 Kruge C2 Pučišća E5
Baška Voda E5 Kućište H1 Rab A1
Baške Oštarije B2 Kukljica B3 Račišče H1
Benkovac C3 Kula Norinska J1 Rogač D5
Bibinje B3 Kupari L2 Rogoznica C5
Dalmatia Map Index

Bilice C4 Kut D6 Sali B3


Biograd na Moru B3 Lastovo G2 Seget Donji D5
Biševo C6 Lavsa B4 Seline B3
Blace J1 Lički Osik B2 Senj A1
Blato G1 Ljubitovica D4 Sestrunj A3
Bogomolje F6 Ljubovo B1 Silba A2
Bol E5 Lokrum L3 Sinj E4
Boraja D4 Lopar A1 Sjeverni Velebit National Park A1
Božava A3 Lopud K2 Skradin C4
Brač E5 Lovinac C2 Skrivena Luka G2
Brbinj A3 Lovište H1 Slano K2
Brela E5 Lukovo Šugarje B2 Sobra J2
Brnaze E4 Lumbarda H2 Solin (Salona) D5
Brodarica C4 Lun A1 Split D5
Bruvno C2 Makarska F5 Srebreno L2
Cavtat L3 Mali Drvenik C5 Stari Grad E6
Cista Provo E5 Mali Ston K2 Starigrad-Paklenica B2
Čilipi L3 Mana B4 Stobreč D5
Čiovo D5 Marina D5 Stomorska D5
Dobroselo C2 Maslinica D5 Ston J2
Donji Srd D2 Maun A2 Strmica D3
Drniš D4 Metković J1 Sučevici C3
Drvenik H1 Milna D5 Sućuraj H1
Drvenik Mali C5 Mišnjak A1 Sudurad K2
Drvenik Veli D5 Mlini L3 Sukošan B3
Duba Plješka H1 Mljet J2 Sumartin E5
Duba Stonska J2 Mljet National Park J2 Supetar E5
Dubrovnik K2 Molat A3 Sutivan D5
Dugi Otok A3 Molunat L3 Sv. Klement D6
Dugi Rat E5 Murter B4 Svetac C6
Dugopolje E4 Mutilič C2 Sveti Juraj A1
Glavice E4 Neretva Delta J1 Šćedro G1
Gornji Muć D4 Neum J2 Šestanovac E5
Gospić B2 Nin B3 Šibenik C4
Goveđari J2 Novalja A2 Šipan K2
Gračac C2 Novigrad B3 Šipanska Luka K2
Gradac J1 Obrovac C3 Škrda A2
Gruda L3 Olib A2 Škrip E5
Gubavica Falls E5 Omiš E5 Šolta D5
Hvar D6 Opuzen J1 Telašćica Nature Park B4
Imotski F5 Orašac K2 Tkon B4
Ist A2 Orebič H1 Topolo J2
Iž A3 Otavice D4 Tribunj C4
Jablanac A1 Otočac B1 Trilj E4
Jabuka B6 Otok E4 Trogir D5
Janjina J2 Padene D3 Trpanj H1
Jelsa G1 Pag A2 Trstenik J2
Jošan C2 Paklenica National Park B2 Trsteno K2
Kakan C4 Pakoštane B4 Tučepi F5
Kali B3 Pašman B3 Ubli G2
Kamenmost F5 Perušić B1 Ugljan A3
Kaprije C4 Pirovac C4 Vela Luka G1
Karlobag A2 Piškera B4 Veli Drvenik D5
Kaštela D5 Plat L3 Veli Iž A3
Kaštel Gomilica D5 Plitvica C1 Vid J1
Kaštel Stari D5 Plitvice National Park B1 Viganj H1
Kaštel Žegarski C3 Ploče J1 Vir A2
Kistanje C3 Podgora F5 Vis D6
Vodice C4
Klek J1 Podstrana E5
Vrboska G1
Klis D5 Pokrivenik G1
Vrgorac F6
Knin D3 Polače J2
Vrlika D4
Koločep K2 Pomena J2
Zadar B3
Komiža D6 Popovići L3
Zadvarje E5
Komolac L2 Posedarje B3
Zagvozd F5
Konavle L3 Potima G2
Zaostrog H1
Korčula H1 Potomje J1
Zaton K2
Korenica C1 Povljana A2
Zavala G1
Korita K2 Preko B3
Zavalatica G2
Kornat B4 Primošten C4
Zlarin C4
Kornati National Park B4 Privlaka A3
Zrmanja C3
Kozarica J2 Prizdrina H1
Žirje C4
Krapanj C4 Prizna A2
Živogošće H1
Krasno A1 Prižba G2 Žuljana J2
Krka National Park C3 Prvić C4 Žut B4

128

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