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TOP 10
dubrovnik
& the dalmatian coast
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Bari, Ortona, Rijeka, Split
Greater Dubrovnik
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10
Town
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Synagogue Sponza
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) Palace Adriatic Sea
OD
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AČA LUŽA North
Onofrio’s Pier
Lokrum
St Blaise’s Little
Church Fountain 1 miles 0 km 1
Orthodox Old Port Cavtat
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Church
Unspoilt beaches
OR
Museum Rector’s
Palace 10
South
Historic towns
GUNDULIŒEVA Pier
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POLJANA
10
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St John’s
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MARINA DRŽIŒA
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POLJANA
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Pristine islands
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Cathedral
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Pu s t i j e r n a
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10
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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
Contents
Contents
Top 10 of Dubrovnik
& the Dalmatian Coast
Produced by DP Services, London
Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore
Printed and bound in China by Leo Paper Products Ltd Old City Walls, Dubrovnik 8
First American Edition, 2006
10 11 12 13 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Published in the United States by Stradun, Dubrovnik 10
DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street, New York,
New York 10014
Reprinted with revisions 2008, 2010
Copyright 2006, 2010 ©
Rector’s Palace, Dubrovnik 14
Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Company
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under
copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may
Korčula Town 16
be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval
system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means
(electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or
otherwise), without the prior written permission of both
Trogir 18
the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book.
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
A catalog record for this book is available from the Krka National Park 20
Library of Congress.
ISSN 1479-344X
ISBN: 978-0-75666-138-0
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy of Diocletian’s Palace, Split 22
quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in the editor’s
opinion, of roughly equal merit.
Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with
British usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor above Kornati National Park 26
ground level.
Cathedral of St James,
Šibenik 28
Cover: Front – 4Corners Images: SIME/Johanna Huber main; DK Images: Lucio Rossi clb. Spine: DK Images:
Lucio Rossi b. Back – DK Images: Lucio Rossi c, cl, cr.
Contents
Left Onofrio’s Fountain, Stradun, Dubrovnik Right River Čikola, Krka National Park
framed between striking limestone mountains and the azure waters of the
Adriatic, where hundreds of islands, inhabited and uninhabited, await
exploration. The coastline is punctuated by a series of lively towns and cities,
in which the region’s long and eclectic history comes alive in wonderfully
preserved “old cores” that are no mere museum-pieces, but vibrant, bustling
hubs of activity – nowhere more so than Dubrovnik, a UNESCO World Heritage
Site now returned to its former splendour after the siege of the early 1990s.
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pp10–13). 5RJR]QLFD
$ Korčula Town
It may or may not be
the birthplace of Marco
Polo, but Korčula Town is
simply sublime, set on its
own peninsula, framed by
sea and mountains. Its
cathedral is one of the most
charming ecclesiastical
buildings in the Adriatic
(see pp16–17).
'UYDU
* Kornati National Park
This necklace of largely uninhabited
islands strung out in the Adriatic has
become a paradise for sailors, and for
%RVDQVNR those looking to escape the strains and
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^ St John’s Fort
This fortification
(right) protected the old
port from advancing
enemy ships and was, in
its time, right at the
cutting edge of military
technology. Begun in the
14th century, additions
were being made well
into the 16th century.
( Bokar Fort
This Renaissance
the hulking fortifications
and the island of Lokrum.
Republic of Ragusa
enjoyed centuries of
fort, designed by independence, at a time
Michelozzo Michelozzi,
watches over the city’s ) Boat Trip
For a completely
when the Venetians and
Turks were vying for
original port. From here different perspective of territory all around the
the Lovrijenac fortress is Dubrovnik’s walls, join a Adriatic. Machiavelli
visible across the water. tour boat or hire a local would have applauded
water taxi (both the skill of the republic’s
leave from the negotiators as they
old port) and played off the various
skirt around the powers against each
base of the city other, dipping into the
(left), where the city’s bountiful gold
Adriatic swishes reserves when all else
against the rocks failed. The word proudly
and the ramparts emblazoned on their flag
soar menacingly was Libertas (freedom).
upward.
9
Stradun, Dubrovnik
The sweeping Stradun, also known as the Placa, is Dubrovnik’s main
thoroughfare, cutting a pedestrianized swathe right through the Old City.
Formed when the narrow channel that separated the Slavic settlement of
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast
Dubrovnik on the mainland from the Roman settlement on the island of Raus
was filled in during the 12th century, it has survived the disastrous earthquake
of 1667 and Serb shelling during the Siege of Dubrovnik from 1991 to 1992.
Today this smooth limestone walkway, with its melée of attractive shops, cafés,
bars and restaurants, buzzes with visitors throughout the summer months.
Top 10 Sights
1 Shutters and Lamps
2 Café Culture
3 Onofrio’s Large Fountain
4 Church of St Saviour
Sponza Palace
5 Franciscan Monastery
6 Orlando’s Column
The Café Festival,
housed in one of the
7 Clocktower
Stradun’s graceful 8 Sponza Palace
stone houses, is the 9 Onofrio’s Little Fountain
place to be and be 0 Church of St Blaise
seen on the Stradun.
During the Dubrovnik
Festival, you will have
to be quick to snare
! Shutters and Lamps
For a wonderfully
controlled piece of town
one of the coveted
planning, look at the
outside tables. window shutters and the
lamps along the Stradun
Even if you have (right). They are all painted
seen the Stradun by the same shade of green,
day, you should also giving a cohesiveness not
return at night, when often found in European
floodlighting gives cities these days.
the thoroughfare a
more romantic
ambience.
Clocktower
A striking timepiece
(right), this clocktower
dates from the 15th
century. Overhauled in
1929, the duo of bell
strikers visible today are
copies. The originals are
in the Sponza Palace.
Sponza Palace
The inscription “We
are forbidden to cheat
Earthquake of
and use false measures,
and when I weigh goods, 1667
God weighs me”, reveals The earthquake of 1667
this early-16th-century tore the heart out of
palace’s former role as Gothic and Renaissance
the city’s customs house Dubrovnik, killing 5,000
Onofrio’s
Fountain
Little and mint. Today it is home
to the State Archives and
of its citizens and
reducing many of its
Tucked into a building by the Museum to the key buildings to rubble.
the Rector’s Palace, this Dubrovnik Defenders. This terrible tragedy
“little sister” to the large paved the way for the
Onofrio fountain often construction of one of
goes unnoticed. It dates the most impressive
from the 15th century. Baroque cities in
Europe. Carefully
Church of St Blaise
This church (right) sits
planned to sit within
the protective confines
at the top of the Stradun. of the sturdy city walls,
Inside, Dubrovnik’s patron it resisted all intruders
saint, St Blaise, cradles a until the arrival of
model of the city showing Napoleonic troops in
what it looked like before the early 19th century.
the earthquake of 1667.
@ Inner Courtyard
Step into this inner sanctum
^ Church of St Francis
to view the cloisters and admire Most of the original 14th-
the spectacular balustrade that century church was destroyed by
frames the courtyard. the Great Earthquake of 1667.
Remarkable features in this 18th-
£ Frescoes
The life of St Francis and
century reconstruction include
the lavish marble altars and the
his animals is depicted in the ornate organ framed by cherubs.
frescoes that line the cloisters.
( Portraits
The library walls are adorned
with portraits of some of the
city’s most celebrated citizens,
including the mathematician
Ruđer Bošković (1711–87).
@ Missile Damage
On 6 December 1991, ^ Religious Painting
The highlight of the
known locally as “Black Portrait of St Blaise museum’s collection of
Tuesday”, Serbian missiles religious art is a 15th-
rained down on Dubrovnik. century portrait of St Blaise, set
Two shell-holes have been left against a striking gold backdrop.
in the museum walls to serve
as reminders of the damage
sustained by the monastery. &
Osman
One of the treasures of
the museum’s library is an
18th-century transcript of Ivan
Gundulić’s Osman. Heralded
as the poet’s masterpiece, it
celebrates a famous Slavic
victory over the Turks.
£ War Record
Inconspicuously located
instruments and traditional
remedies, some lethal poisons.
below the painting of Dubrovnik
is a book cataloguing the
devastation caused by the ( Stone Reliefs
A small open space to one
54 direct hits upon the side of the museum contains odd
monastery during the siege remnants of carved masonry from
of the city in 1991–2. the building, including gargoyles
and segments of old gravestones.
$ Missiles
Tucked into a corner, by a
) StTheFrancis
bench near the entrance to the medieval stone relief of
museum, lie the casings of some St Francis, above the museum
of the missiles that wrought entrance, appears to be casting a
destruction on this tranquil space. protective eye over his domain.
13
Rector’s Palace, Dubrovnik
The Rector of Dubrovnik wielded very little real power. Nominal head of the
government, he was in office for a single month, during which he had to live
away from his family and was only allowed to leave the palace on official
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast
business. The original building, more castle than palace, was blown up in 1435.
The new building erected on the site had to be restored after another explosion
in 1463, and again after the earthquake of 1667; today’s palace is a hybrid of
Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles. Dubrovnik no longer has a rector, but
his opulent residence still plays an important role in the cultural life of the city.
Top 10 Sights
1 Gothic Loggia
2 Atrium
3 Statue of Miho Pracat
4 Gundulić Portrait
Latin inscription at the top
of the stairs 5 Statues of St Blaise
6 Prison Cells
The Gradska Kavana
is a café fit for a
7 Stairs
rector, with stunning 8 Inscription
views across Luža 9 Sedan Chairs
Square and down the 0 Rector’s Study
Stradun on one side
and out onto the
historic old port on
the other.
The windows on
the first floor make
a perfect spot for
photographing both
the cathedral and the
displays of folk
dancing that Rector’s Palace
sometimes take
place in the street
£ Statue of Miho
below. If you find the
windows open, just
! Gothic Loggia
This ornately carved
Pracat
Taking pride of place in
pop out your lens loggia (above) was built the atrium is Pietro
using marble from the Giacometti’s 17th-century
and shoot.
Dalmatian island of statue of shipping
Korčula. In the middle of magnate Miho Pracat
t Pred Dvorom 3 the parade of Gothic (left), from the
t Map J5 columns and capitals nearby island of
t 020 321 422 are three in the Lopud. Dying
t Open Apr–Oct: 9am– Renaissance style. without an heir,
6pm daily; Nov–Mar: he left his wealth
9am–4pm daily
t Adm charge 40kn @ Atrium
This compact
to the Republic
of Ragusa.
(children 20kn; groups open-air space offers
25kn) a suitably grand welcome
to visitors and, today, also $ Gundulić Portrait
This is one of the few
serves as a venue for portraits in existence
cultural events, such as of Dubrovnik’s most
recitals by the Dubrovnik celebrated poet, Ivan
Symphony Orchestra. Gundulić (1589–1638).
14 Keep your eyes peeled for statues of St Blaise dotted around the
Old City.
7
Statues of 3 9
% St Blaise 2 8
The sculptures of St Entrance
1
Blaise in the museum
here afford a rare 6
chance to get up close 5
Ground Floor
^ Prison Cells
The ground floor once
(see p38). served as the Republic of
Ragusa’s courtroom and
prison. The dank, gloomy
cells here hint at the
harsh treatment meted
out to inmates, who
relied on friends and
family for food and water.
& Stairs
The rather ghoulish
stairs up to the first floor
are adorned with three
lifelike hands on each rail.
They were used only
once a month, by the
incoming rector at the
start of his term of office.
An Explosive
Inscription Sedan Chairs History
* The inscription in ( In the small room beneath In addition to being the
Latin at the top of the the inscription is abode of the head of
stairs would have put a collection of the Republic of Ragusa,
any rector firmly in his 18th-century as well as the site of
place by reminding sedan chairs the law courts and
him of his duty to (right), that prison, the Rector’s
focus, not on his hints at the Palace also once served
personal concerns, opulence of as a gunpowder store.
but only on public and the city’s This foolishness on the
civic matters. nobility. part of the authorities
unfortunately resulted
) Rector’s Study
In one of the
in the building being
blown sky high on
Palace’s most elegant two occasions. It was
and graceful rooms only after the second
(left), visitors can disastrous explosion
watch a rather lifeless that the city’s leaders
looking dummy of the finally made the
rector (in a garish red decision to move their
gown) hard at work arsenal elsewhere.
on affairs of state.
Top 10 Features
1 City Walls
2 Land Gate and Steps
3 Town Hall
4 Cathedral of St Mark
Cathedral of St Mark 5 Bishop’s Palace
6 Town Museum
Housed in an old 7 Marco Polo House
bastion, the Massimo 8 Art Shops/Arneri Palace
bar offers sweeping 9 Churches
views out across the 0 Beaches
Pelješki Channel.
16
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6 9 5 2
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^ Town Museum
In the main square
opposite the cathedral is
a small civic museum,
housed in the striking
16th-century Gabriellis
Palace. Among a number
of interesting exhibits
here is a copy of a 4th-
century Greek tablet.
17
Trogir
Trogir, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is quite simply one of the
most stunning places in the Mediterranean. Sitting on its own island with
bridges linking it to the mainland on one side and to the island of Čiovo on
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast
the other, the town forms a shimmering knot of orange roofs and traditional
stone buildings, amongst which lies one of Croatia’s most remarkable
cathedrals. The well-preserved old centre is perhaps the most unified in the
whole country, a pedestrianized oasis where the centuries peel back with
every step. Even the heavy crowds in summer fail to diminish Trogir’s appeal.
Top 10 Features
1 Cathedral of St Lawrence
2 Kamerlengo Fortress
3 Civic Museum
4 Loggia and Clock Tower
Land Gate 5 Ćipiko Palace
6 Marmont’s Gazebo
The palm-fringed
Riva is ideal for a
7 Church of St John the Baptist
relaxed coffee or 8 Convent of St Nicholas
meal at any time. 9 Riva
0 Land Gate
Cross the bridge to
the island of Čiovo for
great views across
to the old city.
t Map D5
t Tourist Information: Trg
Ivana Pavla II. 021 881 412
t www.tztrogir.hr
t Cathedral of St ! Cathedral
Lawrence
of St
Riva
Lawrence Bell Tower, Highlights include the 13th-
baptistry, treasury: Trg
Ivana Pavla II. 021 881
century west door, lavishly
adorned with biblical scenes £ Civic Museum
Trogir’s civic museum
426. Open Jun–Sep: carved by Trogir-born sculptor is housed in the Baroque
9am–8pm daily. Adm Radovan, and the sumptuous Garagnin Palace and
charge 15kn Renaissance styling of the presents details of the
t Kamerlengo Fortress. baptistry and St John’s town’s eclectic past. It
Open Apr–Oct: 8am– Chapel (above). The Collec- houses everything from
10pm. Adm charge 10kn tion of Sacral Works of Art the legacy left by the
t Civic Museum: ulica houses interesting 14th- to Greeks and Romans to
Gradska Vrata 4. 021 881 17th-century paintings. chilling documents from
406. Open 9am–1pm, 4– the Napoleonic era,
9pm daily. Adm charge
15kn (children 10kn); @ Kamerlengo
Fortress
listing the proclamation
of death sentences on
discount for groups This fortification (below) local officials who dared
t Church of St John the has guarded the western to defy French authority.
Baptist: Trg Ivana Pavla approaches to Trogir
II. Open May–Sep: 9am– since the 15th
7pm; Oct–Apr: by appt. century. Concerts
t Convent of St Nicholas: and film showings
Gradska 2. Open are held here in
May–Sep: 10am–noon, 4– summer, while the
6:30pm daily; Oct–Apr: ramparts offer views
by appt. Adm charge 5kn of the old town.
-85 1 ,1$
5$
Traditionally a place $
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its eastern wall, left 2 % $/ $%
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^ Marmont’s
Gazebo
During the Napoleonic
era (1806–13) the top
French General in the
region, Marmont, liked
nothing better than to
recline here, taking in the
views and indulging in
the odd game of cards.
It is still a striking spot,
& Church of St John
the Baptist * Convent
Nicholas
of St despite the more recent
Čiovo shipyards.
This small Romanesque This modest convent is
church, all that remains worth visiting for its art Trogir Orientation
of a great Benedictine collection. The highlight,
monastery, is the only uncovered in Vehicles are banned
final resting-place the 1920s, is the from Trogir’s historic
of the Ćipiko 3rd-century Greek core. However, those
family. Here you relief of Kairos arriving by car can park
can see their (left). Note too the in the public car park
tomb, decorated chests used by located just outside the
with a 15th-century new arrivals for old town’s northern
relief depicting The bringing gifts into walls; simply cross over
Mourning of Christ. the convent. the bridge from the
mainland and turn right.
Parking spaces are at
( Riva Land Gate
The waterfront Riva is ) The most impressive a premium in summer,
where locals and tourists surviving gate, this forms so many people opt to
come to wander or enjoy part of the fortifications take the bus instead.
a meal or drink on balmy built by the Venetians. A The bus station is located
summer evenings. In statue of St John, Trogir’s not far from the afore-
season, boats line up patron saint, watches mentioned bridge, on the
here and visitors can warily over new arrivals Jadranska Magistrala.
book trips for the next day. from the mainland.
Top 10 Features
1 Skradin
2 Lake Visovac
3 Mills and Exhibition
4 Skradinski Buk
General view of Krka 5 Visovac Monastery
National Park
6 Medu Gredama Gorge
Near the boat 7 Roški Slap
landing at Roški,
8 Krka Monastery
Slap, Kristijan, a
9 Nečven Fortress
small agritourism
venture, offers 0 Wildlife
homemade pršut
(see p49), cheese
and bread, not to
mention friendly
owners with a
penchant for dishing
out lethal strength Visovac Monastery
rakija (a fruit spirit).
20
LB
,S
% Visovac Monastery
This chocolate-box monastery, adapted by the
.LVWDQMH
$
both sides, to well over 100 m (328 ft) in places.
) Wildlife
Around a thousand
Head up the hill, beyond
the old mills and the
different plant species visitor parking, where
have been recorded in the information boards
park (left), as well as num- detail the park’s various
erous species of bird, 18 boat tours; here you can
species of bat and nine buy tickets, and will be
types of snake, including directed to the boats.
a venomous viper.
21
Diocletian’s Palace, Split
Split’s city centre is like no other in Europe. Built as a grand retirement home
for the Roman Emperor Diocletian, its character was later modified by
refugees from nearby Salona who fled there in 614, after their own city was
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast
sacked. It may be crumbling and ramshackle in parts, but the area occupied
by the once mighty imperial palace – now a UNESCO World Heritage site –
has about 3,000 residents and is crammed with busy bars and boutique art
shops. Unlike much of the Dalmatian coast, the whole complex buzzes with
life all year round and dishes up a varied choice of things to see and do.
Top 10 Sights
1 Subterranean Chambers
2 Main Hall
3 Peristyle
4 Cathedral of St Domnius
The cathedral belltower,
looming over the port 5 Belltower
6 Baptistry
The spacious Luxor
Café in the sunken
7 Cupola
square is a good place 8 City Museum
to relax and refuel. 9 Golden Gate
0 Iron Gate
Delve beyond the
cupola to explore
the upper tier of the
palace. There are few
! Subterranean
Chambers
The palace’s underground
major sights, but it is
vaults mirror the layout of
a lot quieter here and the floor above. Now open
there are good views as a museum, they give
of the Adriatic as a good impression of the
well as a couple of palace’s former appearance.
lively bars at night.
t Map P3
@ Main Hall
The main subterranean
t Tourist information: hall of the palace houses an Main Hall, Diocletian’s Palace
Peristyle. 021 345 606 alley of souvenir shops. Here
t Subterranean Chamb-
ers. Open 9am–7pm
you can buy anything from
postcards to paintings and $ Cathedral
Domnius
of St
daily. Adm charge 25kn statues of Roman figures. Built over Diocletian’s
t Cathedral of St tomb, the main structure
Domnius: Peristyle. 021 here is Roman. Inside is a
342 589. Open 8am–8pm 13th-century pulpit (below)
Mon–Sat, noon–8pm and work by 15th-century
Sun. Adm charge 15kn sculptor Juraj Dalmatinac.
t Belltower: Peristyle.
Open 8am–8pm Mon–
Sat, noon–8pm Sun. Adm
charge 10kn
t City Museum:
Papalićeva 1. 021 344
917. Open Jun–Sep: £ Peristyle
Once an antechamber
9am–9pm daily; Oct– to Diocletian’s quarters, the
May: 9am–4pm Tue–Fri,
dramatic, colonnaded square
10am–1pm Sat, Sun.
known as the Peristyle
Adm charge 10kn
(above) is the heart of the
(children 5kn)
palace complex.
0
3 5
Diocletian’s
Palace Orientation
& Cupola
Stone steps from the * City Museum
East of the sunken
From the waterfront
Riva, Diocletian’s Palace
sunken square lead to a square, the City Museum can be entered through
domed area, where is housed in the 15th- the Bronze Gate. Head
guests once waited century Papalić north through the main
for an audience with Palace. Among the hall and go up the steps
the Emperor. At artifacts relating to at the far end into the
night, stars are Split’s history is a Peristyle, with its elegant
visible through a collection of colonnades and imposing
gap in the top of weaponry and cathedral. Just north of
the dome. armour (left). the cathedral is the city’s
most centrally located
( Golden Gate
This sturdy )Iron Gate
Split’s most
tourist office – a great
place to pick up visitor
portal once led striking gate has information and maps.
north to the nearby its own church (Our From the Peristyle, the
settlement of Salona. Lady of the Belfry) and main sights are easy to
Today, it is being clock tower. A café on find – just a couple of
restored to its full Narodni Trg will make an minutes’ walk to north,
splendour, thanks to ideal spot from which to east, west or south.
funding by a local bank. admire this elegant portal.
$ Archeological Museum
The collections housed here
feature a wide variety of artifacts
that date from the Roman, early
Christian and medieval periods in
Split, as well as a smaller legacy
from the time of Greek rule in
Dalmatia (see p40). Fish Market
( Bačvice
A short walk southeast from
out from Bačvice is lined with
beaches, cafés and nightclubs.
the centre of Split leads to this Wimbledon champion Goran
small bay, with one of the city’s Ivanišević launched his career at
most popular summer beaches, a tennis club near here. d Map Q6
Top 10 Events in
Diocletian’s Life
Emperor Diocletian
1 AD 245: Born into a The life of Diocletian is a true
lowly Dalmatian “rags to riches” story. He grew
family in Salona up in a family of modest
2 282: Finds favour with means in the Dalmatian town
Emperor Carus, and is of Salona, before embarking on
made a Roman Count a meteoric rise through the
3 283: Carus elevates military ranks of the Roman
his status to that Empire to assume the top
of consul position. He demonstrated a
4 284: Reaches his marked taste for grand construction projects; his
zenith, at the age of greatest legacy to Croatia is the lavish retirement
just 39, by becoming palace he built by the Adriatic, later to evolve into the
Roman Emperor city of Split. Retirement was an unconventional move
5 295: Commissions his for a Roman emperor – one way or another, all of
seaside retirement his predecessors had died in the job. From his grand
palace in Split, which seaside residence, Diocletian looked on as the
takes around a decade Empire began to crumble, and it was here that
to complete he eventually took his own life. Given Diocletian’s
6 303: Outlaws notoriety as a persecutor of Christians, it is ironic that
Christianity, ordering Split’s cathedral was later built on the site of his tomb.
the destruction of all
churches and the
persecution of Christians
7 305: Becomes the first
Roman emperor to
retire rather than die or
be murdered in the job
8 308: Declines request
to be reinstated as
emperor
9 315: Diocletian’s wife
(Prisca) and daughter
(Valeria) are murdered
by Emperor Licinius
0 c.316: Poisons himself Diocletian condemning St Cosmas and St Damian (predella
in his palace at Split from the Annalena Altarpiece by Fra Angelico, 1434)
25
Kornati National Park
Perhaps the writer George Bernard Shaw summed it up best when he gushed
“On the last day of the Creation, God desired to crown his work, and thus
created the Kornati Islands …” There is nothing in Europe quite like this
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast
t Map B4
t Kornati National Park
Office: Butina 2, 22243
Murter. 022 435 740. ! Murter
Murter harbour (above) The steep cliffs of Mana
www.kornati.hr. Adm is the main starting point
charge 250–750/150–
450kn (depending on
on the mainland for trips
into the National Park. £ Island Getaways
Visitors can live like
boat, whether purchased Many ex-islanders (the Robinson Crusoe by hiring
inside/outside park) Kornatari), whose families a stone cottage on an
t In season, tickets can bought land on the islands island. Without any electri-
be bought at marinas in for grazing their livestock city or running water, their
Betina (Murter), Biograd during the 19th century, only human contact will
Na Moru, Sukošan, Sali, have now settled in Murter. be the supply boat that
Žut and Rogoznica. The drops by every few days.
National Park Office in
Murter sells tickets year @ Sailing
A variety of companies,
round both Croatian and foreign,
t Murter-based travel run day trips from Murter,
agencies arranging Zadar, Šibenik and even
island accommodation Trogir to the Kornatis (right).
include Coronata (www. They can also organize a
coronata.hr), Kornat Turist week’s sailing, either
(www.kornatturist.hr) bareback (without a
and Žut Tours (www. skipper) or as a charter
zuttours.hr) (with a skipper, who will
also do the cooking).
26
'XJL2WRN
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N
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& Piškera
Another
island with a
discernible
Roman legacy
is Piškera.
There was
once a
substantial
village here,
though all that
remains these days is Kornati Islands
the ruined shell of this
settlement and an old
Orientation
* Lavsa
Its good choice of
church. The marina on
Piškera (right) is the most
The Kornati Islands
National Park is located
sheltered, sandy coves developed in the islands. approximately seven
make Lavsa a popular nautical miles west of
destination with the
yachting fraternity. There ) Wildlife
Attempts at exploiting
Murter and around 15
nautical miles from
they can stop off and the limited natural Zadar and Šibenik. In
idle away an afternoon, resources of the islands the summer, boats
swimming and basking may appear to have authorized to take
in the sunshine. stripped them of all tourists into the park line
wildlife. Yet they are home the waterfronts of these
( Mana
Mana is best known
to over 300 plant varieties
and a similar number of
three towns. If you are
thinking of booking
for three things: its flora, animal species, including a day trip, ask to see a
its ruined village – not in wild sheep (below). map first to ensure that
fact a real settlement but the tour really does
a set built for the 1950s include the park. The
film The Cruel Sea – and best way, however, to
its steep, overhanging explore the park’s many
cliffs, a spectacular sight islands thoroughly is on
when the Adriatic swell a private yacht.
crashes against them.
When the main architect, Juraj Dalmatinac, died in 1475, his pupil Nikola
Firentinac took over, completing the presbytery, choir, galleries, vaulted roof
and dome. It has taken international experts several years to restore the
building since its damage by Serbian shelling in 1991, during Croatia’s war
of independence. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001.
Top 10 Features
1 Array of Heads
2 Façade
3 Door of Lions
4 Gothic Portal
A face carved on the
cornice of the apse 5 Dome
6 Vaulted Roof
The Gradska Vječnica
café, opposite the
7 Interior
cathedral, makes a 8 Transept
good spot to sit and 9 Presbytery
admire the splendours 0 Baptistry
of this great building,
over coffee or perhaps
a leisurely lunch.
! Array of Heads
These 72 stone heads
adorn the exterior of the
apse. They are reputed to
To appreciate the
represent, depending on
visual impact of the whom you believe, either
cathedral better, the cathedral’s generous
climb up to the benefactors or locals who
nearby fortress of were too mean to dispense
St Ana, from where any of their wealth on the Inside Šibenik Cathedral
you will be able to building’s construction.
take in fully its
massive scale as well
£ Door of Lions
Two stone lions guard
as the grandeur of its Juraj Dalmatinac’s finely
exterior. crafted portico, supporting
statues of Adam and Eve
(below). The doorway
t Map C4
itself is framed by ornately
t Trg Republike
carved spiral columns.
Hrvatske 1
t Open May–Sep:
8:30am–8pm daily;
Oct–Apr: 8:30am–noon,
4–8pm daily
@ Façade
Taking 105 years to
complete (1431–1536), the
cathedral’s symmetrical
façade (above) is crafted
from local limestone and
Brač marble. Its impressive
dimensions are 38 m (125 ft)
by 14 m (46 ft). Look out for
the angel standing protect-
ively above the north portal.
^ Vaulted Roof
Like the rest of the
building, the roof was
constructed using
blocks of carefully
measured stone, the
individual pieces slotting
together perfectly. It is
widely regarded as a
tribute to the great
technical skill of the
stonecutters involved.
& Interior
This triple-aisled space
is divided up by columns,
topped by pointed arches.
Notable features include
the four massive pillars
supporting the cupola, the
tombs of Šibenik’s bishops
and the altars of the Three
Kings and the Holy Cross.
* Transept
You may feel less
Šibenik Cathedral
than comfortable about Orientation
walking under the Šibenik’s cathedral is at
transept after you learn the heart of the old
that it was laced together town, which tumbles
without using mortar. downhill from the main
( Presbytery
Both architects –
Again, this is a testimony
to the talent and prowess
street, Kralja Zvonimira,
to the north, toward the
Dalmatinac and Firentinac of the local stonemasons. Adriatic, to the south. It
– contributed to the is an easy walk west
presbytery’s finely carved along the waterfront
stone stalls (above). Over from the bus station or
them are further highly a short taxi ride from
detailed, sculpted reliefs. the train station. There
is limited car parking on
) Baptistry
The small bapistry, at
Obala Franje Tuđmana,
the waterfront street just
the end of the right aisle, south of the city walls;
houses a fine baptismal from Kralja Zvonimira
font supported by three turn onto Vladimira
putti (right). A quartet of Nazora, then take the
stone scallop shells leads third street on the right.
up to the carved roof.
waters of the Adriatic. In this lively city of just over 100,000 inhabitants is a
Catholic cathedral and an Orthodox church, and the remains of a Roman
forum, all squeezed into a compact historic centre that is awash with cafés,
bars and good restaurants. Zadar has yet to be “discovered” by mass tourism,
but in summer its streets buzz with visitors from other parts of Croatia.
Top 10 Features
1 Land Gate
2 Church of St Simeon
3 Five Wells Square
Amphorae in the
4 Narodni Trg
Archeological Museum 5 Sea Organ
6 Roman Forum
Stop off at the Forum
Café and sip a cold 7 Archeological Museum
pivo (beer) or bijela 8 Church of St Donat
kava (milky coffee) at 9 Cathedral of St Anastasia
one of the outside 0 Church of St Elijah
tables that overlook
the Roman Forum.
t Map B3
! Land Gate
This voluminous gate –
Church of St Elijah, altar
t Church of St Simeon:
Trg Petra Zoranića 7. 023
thought to have been
completed in the 16th £ Five Wells Square
Late into the 19th
211 705. Open Jun–Sep: century by Italian architect century, this complex of
8am–noon, 6–8pm daily; Michele Sanmicheli – guards wells was where the
Oct–May: open for mass the southern entrance to citizens of Zadar drew
t Cathedral of St the old town. A Venetian their fresh water. Each of
Anastasia: Trg Svete lion (above) stares down the five wells is identical
Stošÿe. 023 251 708. from this portal, revealing in design. Also on the
Open 8am–1pm, 5– Zadar’s links with Venice. square is the Captain’s
6:30pm daily Tower, which has been
t Archeological Museum:
Trg Opatice Čike 1. 023
@ Church of
St Simeon
renovated and now hosts
modern art exhibitions.
250 542. Open Apr–Sep: The church that stands
9am–1pm, 5–9pm here today is a 17th-
Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat century reconstruction.
& Sun; Oct–Mar: 9am– It is home to a
1pm Mon–Sat. Adm 14th-century silver
charge 10kn sarcophagus (right)
t Church of St Donat. that holds the remains
Open winter: by appt; of St Simeon. The
summer: 9am–8pm daily. sarcophagus is open
Adm charge 10kn on his saint’s day,
8 October.
$/
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This busy square (above), once the
0 ,9
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centre of Venetian Zadar, boasts a brace
, 9
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of pavement cafés and a Venetian-style
/ ,1
Zadar
29
town hall with a loggia and a 16th-century
,Ĕ $
guard house. During the summer, there Old Town
is often an arts and crafts market here.
% Sea Organ
This award-winning
project consists of 35
pipes of different length
and diameter built into the
staircase descending to
the sea. The waves hitting
the shore produce random
but harmonic sounds,
making the Sea Organ a
giant musical instrument.
^ Roman Forum
Little of this ancient
forum remains, as many
of its stones were used
as building blocks for the
rest of the old town. A
pillar, where criminals
were once flogged, still
stands, along with a
scattering of odd pieces
of carved stonework.
31
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast
Left The siege of Dubrovnik, 1991 Right Crusaders conquering Zadar, 1202
$ Croatian
AD925: Alleged First
King
& 1699: Dalmatia Under
Crowned Venetian Control
Croatia became a nation Large swathes of Dalmatia
under King Tomislav, the fell under the control of
“Father of the Croats”, Venice, although the Republic
whose achievement it was of Ragusa (Dubrovnik, see
to unite the country for pp8–9) retained its
the first time. Croatia’s independence from
independence, both Venice and
however, was soon King Tomislav Constantinople.
@ King Tomislav
Many Croats still consider
Croatia’s alleged first king a
hero.
£ Grgur of Nin
This 10th-century bishop
campaigned for the use of
the Croatian language (rather
than Latin) in church services.
$ Napoleon Bonaparte
Napoleon (1769–1821)
promoted Slavic languages in
schools in the Illyrian
Provinces.
Left Dubrovnik Middle Church of Our Lady of Spilica, Kut Right St Mark’s Tower, Trogir
Old Towns
! Dubrovnik
Lord Byron’s “Pearl of the
Adriatic” is Croatia’s most famous
set-piece. Encapsulated within
the hulking medieval walls is a
perfectly preserved Baroque city-
state, sandwiched between a
sweep of limestone mountains
to the north and the Adriatic to Split – old and new towns
the south. Now rediscovered by
tourists, the Old City can often
get crowded in summer, but $ Split
No staid museum piece,
there’s no disguising its allure Split’s old town is a living and
(see pp8–15, 58–66). breathing slice of history, formed
around the confines of the
@ Korčula Town
This mini-Dubrovnik matches
Emperor Diocletian’s palatial
waterfront retirement home,
its more illustrious sibling in and adapted over the centuries
everything but scale. Enjoying its by the Spličani (see pp22–3, 25).
own rocky promontory, this old
town, carved over the centuries
by the Venetians, still feels like % Zadar
Neither World War II nor
an oasis not yet well acquainted the bombing of the early 1990s
with the 20th century, let alone could dent the spirit of this lively,
the 21st. Within its walls lie bustling town. It may lack the
churches, seafood restaurants, architectural cohesion of Trogir,
and the site where, locals believe, Korčula and Dubrovnik, but its
their most famous son, Marco stunning setting – reclining on
Polo, was born (see pp16–17, 92). its own peninsula in a flurry of
churches, Roman ruins and
£ Trogir
Set picturesquely on an islet
pavement cafés – more than
makes up for it (see pp30–31).
between the mainland and the
island of Čiovo, this grand
creation can make a credible ^
Hvar Town
It is easy to see why
claim for the title of finest Hvar Town is the summer
old town on the getaway of choice for
Adriatic coast. Trogir’s Croatia’s cognoscenti.
unity of design makes The charming old core,
it special, which is crammed with
why the locals call it Venetian architecture,
the “town museum” Church of Chrysogonus, sweeps around a wide
(see pp18–19). Zadar Adriatic bay. High up
36
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast
Šibenik
* Šibenik
The most “Croatian” city on
of 20 or so Renaissance stone
houses, characterized by their
the coast (in that it wasn’t built high, broad terraces (see p95).
by the Romans or the
Venetians), Šibenik *RVSLÉ
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of mass tourism. The %UDÏ 0DNDUVND
37
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast
Left Cathedral of St Stephen, Hvar Middle Cathedral of St James, Šibenik Right St Donat’s, Zadar
@ Cathedral
Trogir
of St Lawrence expanse of the Velebit mountains
rising up on the other. d Map B3
The 13th-century west portal by
local master Radovan is the
pièce de resistance of this % Church of St Blaise,
Dubrovnik
remarkable cathedral. Look out Dubrovnik’s highly revered patron
for the figures of Adam and Eve saint, St Blaise, is said to have
on either side, standing proudly saved the city from sacking at
over a pair of Venetian lions the hands of the Venetians. He
(indicating the influence Venice
once had over Trogir). Arranged
around the upper sections of the
portal are depictions of the
saints, and calendar scenes of
local life (see pp18–19).
£ Church
Nin
of the Holy Cross,
* Church of St Michael,
Komiža, Vis
can be seen in both the interior
and exterior stonework, as
The Church of St Michael stones from the forum were
sits amidst vines on a used as building blocks (see p31).
steep bluff overlooking
3DJ
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$ Maritime
Dubrovnik
Museum,
Distant Agreements, Meštrović Gallery, Split The most interesting part of the
collection illustrates Dubrovnik’s
@ Museum
of Croatian
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Monuments, Split
One of Croatia’s oldest ^ Museum of
the Island
museums has a fine Carving, Museum of Croatian
of Brač, Škrip
collection of jewellery, Archaeological Monuments Treasures from all over
weapons, stonework Brač are housed in the
and epigraphics (inscriptions Radojković Tower, which shows
carved on stone). d 4UKFQBOB traces of Illyrian, Roman and early
(VOKBče bb t.BQ/t Croatian architecture. d .BQ&
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* Archeological Museum,
Vis Town % Orlando’s
Dubrovnik
Column,
Sculptures, ceramics, weapons
Standard-bearer for the Divine
and everyday items illuminate Republic, Orlando flies the
life in the Ancient Greek town of Libertas flag of the Dubrovnik
Issa (modern Vis Town). d 7JÝLJCPK Festival in summer TFFQ
.
12 t.BQ%tt0QFO
TVNNFSBNoQN
oQN5VFo4VO ^ Ivan Gundulić,
Dubrovnik
XJOUFSBNoQN5VFo4VOt"ENDIBSHF Oversized Meštrović statue,
honouring the life and work of
) Archeological
Zadar
Museum,
( Juraj Dalmatinac,
Šibenik
The exhibits chart the city’s The architect keeps a watch-
evolution from Neolithic times ful eye on the cathedral he
through to Roman settlement, the didn’t live to see completed.
Byzantine era and the early Middle
Ages. Highlights include a model of ) Father Andrija Kačić
Miošić, Makarska
the Roman forum, an impressive Impressive tribute to this
collection of glassware and artifacts 18th-century priest and poet.
from the Liburnian period TFFQ
.
Beaches
!Zlatni Rat, Brač
The “Golden Cape” – a
but the sweeping views of old
Dubrovnik are hard to beat, the
popular sweep of fine shingle waters are clean, and the island
that curls out, lapped by the of Lokrum tempts offshore.
currents of the Adriatic, from d Map K5
the pine-fringed southern flank
of the island of Brač – is much
eulogized, and photos of this $ Pakleni Islands, Hvar
The “Islands of Hell” may
distinctive landmark near the not sound too inviting, but this
resort of Bol are, deservedly, necklace of tiny islands just off
omnipresent in holiday brochures. Hvar provides plenty of great
d Map E5 places to laze by the sea. A short
boat trip from Hvar Town and
@ Orebić
You couldn’t wish for a more
you find yourself sitting by the
Adriatic with very little in the
spectacular location to unfurl way of tourist development to
your towel than the beach of this spoil the surroundings. Clothes
small resort, with its collage of are very much optional on Jerolim.
fine shingle and sand. Across d Map D6
the water, on the nearby island
of Korčula, you can see the
terracotta roof tiles of Korčula % Nin
The Northern Dalmatian town
Town, as starched mountain- of Nin is renowned as a site of
scapes embrace all around (see religious and historical importance,
p91). d Map H1 but it’s also surrounded by real
sand beaches, something of a
^ Telašćica
Park
Nature
& Gradac
The small town of Gradac
boasts the longest beach in
Croatia, and the best on the
Makarska Riviera. Shingle and
pebbles abound along the tree-
fringed shoreline. Out to sea,
the island of Hvar looms on the
horizon. Some sections of the Gradac, Makarska Riviera
beach offer tourist facilities;
others are far more rustic. In summer there are boats as well.
summer it can be tricky to find a If Pržina Bay gets a little too
secluded spot (see p82). d Map J1 crowded for your liking, nearby
Bilin Žal tends to be a bit quieter.
( Pržina
*RVSLÉ
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43
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast
Outdoor Activities
! Windsurfing
Windswept coast-
Diving Federation for
more information. d
lines near Nin, on Brač, Croatian Diving Federation:
and along the Pelješki www.diving-hrs.hr
Channel (Korčula and
Pelješac) are all popular
haunts for windsurfers. $ Sea Kayaking
This is a sport that
d Big Blue Sport: www. experts expect to take
big-blue-sport.hr off in a big way over the
Windsurfing coming years, with the
@ Rafting
Adrenaline-fuelled
majority of trips centred
around Dubrovnik and the Elafiti
white-water rafting trips are Islands. You can take anything
becoming increasingly popular, from a short excursion to a
with a number of operators week-long break. Local travel
organizing trips on the Cetina agencies in Dubrovnik can
River. Trips generally last from organize sea-kayaking tours.
three to four hours, and take
place on the lower stretch of
this 105-km- (65-mile-) long % Climbing
The vaulting peaks of the
waterway, around 20 minutes Biokovo, Dinaric and Velebit
from the coastal town of Omiš mountain ranges have an
(see p83). d Huck Finn: www. irresistible allure to mountain-
huck-finn.hr eers, who flock here from all
over Europe. Paklenica National
Park is well set up for climbers;
bolted routes offer a wide variety
of challenges on the lower
slopes, while free climbing is
also possible.
Rafting
^ Walking and Hiking
Dalmatia has an almost
£ Scuba Diving
Dive schools along the
infinite number of walking and
hiking opportunities, from easy,
Dalmatian coast offer trial dives, low-level walks to steep ascents
diving courses, equipment hire, requiring a higher level of
night dives and wreck dives. fitness. Seek local advice, and
Some of the best diving can be ensure that you have the right
done with Biševo’s Blue Grotto equipment. UK-based Headwater
(see p84) from the island of Vis, organize walking holidays around
where there are myriad offshore the Dalmatian coast. d Headwater:
wrecks. Contact the Croatian www.headwater.com
44
& Tennis
National heroes Goran
Top 10 Spectator
Sports
Ivanišević, Mario Ančić and Iva
Majoli have all fuelled Croatia’s
love of tennis. Public courts can
! Football
Dalmatians are passionate
* Swimming
Given Croatia’s lengthy
Krešimir Ćosić (now both sadly
deceased), fuelled the nation’s
dedication to the sport.
coastline, it’s hardly surprising
that swimming is a popular
outdoor sport. Those not keen £ Tennis
Because Croatia has its
to swim in the sea will find own home-grown tennis
enclosed pools near the celebrities, Croatians like to
waterfronts in Korčula, Split and watch the game as much as
they like to play it.
Šibenik, amongst others.
$ Sailing
( Snorkelling
Cheap and easy, with a
Regular regattas and boat
shows have made sailing more
than just a participant sport.
bountiful coastline to choose
from; just don a mask and
flippers, and you’re away. % Beach Volleyball
During peak season, beach
volleyball matches spring up
) Picigin, Split
A summer sport peculiar to
along the Makarska Riviera.
( Handball
Handball has surged in
popularity since Croatia won
gold at the 2004 Olympics.
) Rowing
The Skelin brothers from
Split took silver at the 2004
Olympics. Most Dalmatian
towns have a rowing club.
Picigin
45
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast
Sailing Routes
! Dubrovnik–Korčula
This southern-Adriatic route $ Murter–Kornati Islands
The sheltered nature of the
eases its way from Dubrovnik Kornati archipelago is a virtual
(see pp8–15, 58–66) to Koločep, guarantee of calm weather,
Lopud, Šipan (see p95) and Mljet making the Kornatis a favourite
(see p92). From the Mljet National haunt of novice or inexperienced
Park, head up the Pelješki Channel sailors, as well as learn-to-sail
en route to Korčula Town (see course operators.
pp16–17). A detour from Šipan
to Ston, from where you can
walk to Mali Ston (see p92) and % Zadar Archipelago
At the height of summer,
savour first-rate Adriatic fish, is when the Kornatis are crowded,
well worth it. the Zadar Archipelago, with over
200 islands, offers
@ Split–Vis
Many yachts
sailors a more
tranquil alternative.
make a beeline for (For Dugi Otok, Silba,
Brač and Hvar, and Pašman, Ugljan and
miss out on the Iž, see p77.)
beauty of Šolta
(much favoured by
the Spličani) and Vis. ^
Šibenik
Archipelago
Hvar certainly has its If you want to be able
attractions, though – to find secluded bays
not least, plenty of at any time of year,
secluded coves Sailing from Split to Vis try the islands near
flanked by impressive Šibenik. Highlights
mountains. (For Brač, Hvar, Šolta include Žirje, Prvić (see p77),
and Vis, see p84.) Kaprije, Tijat, Obonjan and Zlarin.
Zlarin (the closest to Šibenik) is
£ Split–Dugi Otok
This stunning though less
particularly appealing; cars are
banned, and residents still rely on
well-trodden route takes sailors the land and sea for a living
from Split (see pp24–5) to Šolta, (agriculture, fishing, sponge- and
Rogoznica (see p76) and Žirje, coral-diving and wine-making are
then into the Kornati Islands its key industries).
archipelago (see pp26–7), where
Piškera has a good marina. From
here, make the journey to Dugi &
Trogir–Lastovo
Watch enviously from Trogir
Otok before returning by way of marina (see pp18–19) as the
Primošten (see p74), which has millionaires moor up on the Riva
become quite a hub for sailors before heading due south to
over the years. Brač, Hvar (see p84), Korčula
46 The usually calm Croatian waters are perfect for beginners. Neilson
(www.neilson.co.uk) arrange “learn to sail” flotilla holidays.
(see pp16–17, 95) and Lastovo Top 10 Sailing Tips
(see p95). For a real Robinson
Crusoe experience, be sure to ! Know the Rules
Before you sail, check the
explore the islets to the northeast local rules of navigation with
– Češvinica, Kručica, Stomorina the Association of Nautical
$ Charter a Skipper
He or she will know the
waters, and may even cook.
% Vital Documentation
Make sure that you have
certified crew and passenger
lists, as well as proof that the
The island of Pag boat is seaworthy, has third-
party insurance, and that you
are authorized to sail it.
( Zadar–Rab
Leave the Zadar archipelago
behind and search out the island ^ Pre-book Marinas
From June to September,
of Pag (see pp37, 77), with its mooring space is at a premium.
ghostly beauty and empty bays.
From Pag, break away from & Sail During the
“Shoulder” Season
Dalmatia altogether and explore For good weather without the
the neighbouring island of Rab summer crowds, May and
in the Kvarner Gulf, where the September are best.
picture-perfect Rab Town is a
highlight not to be missed. * Weather Forecasts
Check the weather on your
VHF radio. For Dubrovnik the
) Split–Dubrovnik
An extended one-way charter
frequency is 73; for Split, 67.
Restaurants
! Vila Kaliopa, Vis Town
This enchanting restaurant $ Zlatna Ribica, Brodarica
Business types flock here to
is set in the midst of an elegant impress their clients, and it is
sculpture garden. The fish could easy to see why. Fresh fish is
not be fresher, and the service the speciality of this upscale
is every bit as stylish as the restaurant, with a feast of
surrounds (see p87). langoustines, grilled platters and
brodet (fish stew served with
polenta) complemented by fine
wines and a stunning view over
the island of Krapanj (see p79).
% Foša, Zadar
The interior is nothing
special, but the location – by the
Vila Kaliopa, Vis Town sea, looking up towards Zadar’s
old town walls – is fabulous.
Nautika has many would-be You will find this dish featured
on menus up and down the
detractors, but it usually hits the coast – a good-value meal.
spot for most diners. The menu
nods towards the Adriatic, but
there are also meat and
% Dalmatian Ham (Pršut)
This air-dried smoked ham,
vegetarian dishes. Vying for often served as a starter with
Pag cheese, is arguably better
centre stage, though, are the than the Italian equivalent.
wonderful views, with the old
town to one side and Lovrijenac
Fortress to the other (see p69).
^ Pag Lamb (Janjetina)
Flavoursome lamb from
the parched isle where the
lambs feed on fresh herbs.
* Grilled
na Žaru)
Squid (Lignje
Left Paški sir (Pag cheese) and Pršut (smoked ham) Right Lace
Things to Buy
! Ties
Its original name – “cravat” – $ Jewellery
Dalmatia is particularly well
may be French, but the tie comes known for its red Adriatic corals
from Croatia. During the Thirty and its jewellery. The quality and
Years’ War, the French cavalry price of goods depend on the
noticed that Croatians wore their vendor. Upmarket boutiques in
scarves in a distinctive manner – Hvar Town and on the island of
which they termed à la cravate Zlarin are reliable outlets for
(“Croatian-style”). Quality ties can contemporary coral pieces.
be bought in Croata shops in Jewellers in Zadar and Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik, Split and Cavtat. are good for silver and gold.
@ Wine
Quality Dalmatian wines % Food
Paški sir (Pag cheese), pršut
include the reds Plavac, Dingač (air-dried smoked ham), olive oil
and Postup from the Pelješac and honey are all first-rate food
Peninsula. Grk and Pošip products. If you can, buy
(white) are grown in Korčula. direct from locals (look out for
Vineyards in the Konavle the handmade signs displayed
region produce delectable on the roadside), or from
Dubrovačka Malvazija (also fresh-food markets. Failing
white). Outside of Dalmatia, that, you will also find these
Žlahtina from the island of items in supermarkets and
Krk, Graševina from Slavonia, tourist shops.
and Istrian Malvazija – again
all white – are also excellent.
It’s best to buy direct from ^
Dolls in Traditional
Costume
the vineyard – otherwise, Dingač wine Dolls in traditional dress
from a Vinoteka (wine shop). are ubiquitous throughout
Dalmatia. There are dozens
£ Croatian Spirits
Dalmatians are fond of grape-,
of varieties, from cheap and
cheerful souvenirs to figures
herb- and plum-based brandies wearing handmade clothes.
like grappa, travarica and šljivovica, Ceramic dolls are a more
which are drunk as aperitifs or contemporary version.
digestifs. Grappa is an Italian spirit
made from the leftovers of the
winemaking process. Travarica &Lace
Lace products come in many
and Šljivovica are both types of guises, including tablecloths,
rakija, powerful spirits made by handkerchiefs and clothing, and
distillation of fermented fruits. can be bought in boutiques
Nicely packaged bottles crammed throughout Dalmatia. If you are
with herbs make good gifts. looking for something really
* Lavender
This fragrant plant has been
@ Dubrovačka
Dubrovnik
Kuća,
% Arsia, Split
Arsia sells decent Meštrović
replicas, and paintings of Split.
d Dioklecijanova 3 t Map Q2
Lavender stall, Hvar
^ Dioklecijanova, Split
This street leading south
( Dalmatians take great pride
Clothing and Accessories
from the Golden Gate is home
to a handful of good craft
in their appearance, and boutique studios. d Map Q2
shops in the historic cores of
Dubrovnik, Split and Zadar, are
great places to purchase stylish
& Diocletian’s
Split
Palace,
) Handicrafts
Croatia has a long tradition
* Gallery Anima, Zadar
Paintings of Dalmatia by
local artist Zoran Debelić.
of ceramics and wooden handi- d Plemića Borelli 16 t Map B3
crafts. Nautically themed goods
are common in Split, as well as
replicas of Meštrović sculptures.
( Gallery More, Zadar
Located on the old town’s
In Dubrovnik, you can pick up main street, with a good range
of typical Croatian gifts.
dolls, wooden toys and ceramic d Široka bb t Map B3
hearts – the latter harking back
to the times when the families
of seafaring men would donate
) Gallery Pia, Zadar
Ceramics, textiles and
gold or silver hearts to churches, paintings by locally and
nationally known artists.
as votive offerings to ensure the d Jadro 9 t Map B3
safe return of their loved ones.
Children’s Dalmatia
Beaches
Sandy beaches may be few
sunscreen and carry plenty of
water. Cafés located along the
and far between, but Dalmatia way to high vantage points, at
boasts long stretches the top of towers, and in the
of clean, sun-kissed fortifications themselves,
pebble and shingle help ease the strain for
beach. Even at the shorter legs.
height of summer, you
will find whole swathes
of shoreline deserted. Krka National Park
This fun-filled
On busy public beaches, natural wonderland
snack bars, sun should keep everyone
loungers and parasols happy, with lush
are common – some vegetation, thundering
even have changing Wooden walkways, waterfalls, imposing
rooms and showers. Krka National Park monuments and a maze
of wooden walkways –
Ferries
The whole length of the
Dalmatian coast is awash with
catamarans and ferries of all
shapes and sizes, transforming a
sightseeing visit to an island into
a sea-borne adventure. It’s best
to leave the car behind at the
Ferry, Split to Vis height of the summer.
£ Biševo Grotto
On a sunny day, nothing
is more spectacular (see p84).
* Cycling
Once you get away from the % Spanish Fort,
Hvar Town
busy highways and tourist resorts, This 16th-century fort is a firm
Dalmatia is replete with cycling favourite with all ages, and the
young ones can burn off some
opportunities. Many hotels and energy on the steep ascent.
campsites rent bikes to guests;
some provide them free of charge.
^ Split Football Stadium
Treat the kids to some
thrilling soccer action at the
( Adventure Sports
If your older children crave
home of popular premier-
division side Hajduk Split.
a little excitement, adrenaline- d www.hnkhajduk.hr
pumping white-water rafting, sea
kayaking, river canoeing, sailing,
mountain biking and organized
& Roman Ruins, Salona
Stimulate their imaginations
with a visit to this fascinating
hiking trips can be arranged at archeological site (see p81).
local travel agencies.
* St Ana Fort, Šibenik
) International Children’s
Festival
The kids can maraud
around this ancient fortifi-
cation while you take in the
For a fortnight every year (June stunning views (see p73).
to July), stages and public
squares in the historic city of
Šibenik (see p73) host lively
( Obala Kralja Petra
Krešimira IV, Zadar
children’s theatre, music and Zadar’s beautiful waterfront
has attractions such as the
puppet shows. A tradition that Sea Organ.
spans almost half a century, the
International Children’s Festival
appeals to younger children,
) Puppet Theatre, Zadar
If wet weather spoils your
Croatian and non-Croatian alike. plans, check out this fun venue.
d Obala Kralja Tomislava bb
There’s also an art programme, t 023 319 181
including children’s workshops.
^ Dubrovnik Festival
For over 50 years, stages in
Feast of Saint Blaise celebrations historic venues, churches and
the open air have filled the old
@ Carnival
Spectacular Shrove Tuesday
city with theatre, dance and
music. Performances of
carnival processions take place in Shakespeare in the Lovrijenac
Split, where masked locals burn Fortress sell out quickly. d www.
an effigy of Krnjo, a mythical dubrovnik-festival.hr t mid-Jul–late Aug
figure representing everything
bad that has happened to the
city over the previous year. On
the same day, in a celebration
known as Poklad, the inhabitants
of Lastovo commemorate a 15th-
century victory of the islanders
over pirates; a puppet is chased,
captured and burned at the stake.
£Libertas
Dubrovnik
Film Festival,
£ Sponza Palace,
Dubrovnik
Atmospheric venue in the
inner courtyard of this 16th-
century palace (see p11).
$ Church of St Saviour,
Dubrovnik
This old-town church hosts
classical concerts every
Traditional swords and shield of the Moreška Monday at 9pm (see p11).
Dubrovnik
Sights
Stradun and City Walls Old Harbour