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Case study: A local booming sustainable

clothing market
7th International Seminar on Sustainable Technology
Development Sustainable Clothing: Production and Consumption
May 29th 2014
Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya

Cencerrado Sánchez, Carlos [carlos.cencerrado@estudiant.upc.edu]


De Goey, Heleen [heleen@kth.se]
Kyrychenko, Iryna [kokk09@mail.ru]
Rodríguez Huerta, Edgar [edgar.rodriguez@estudiant.upc.edu]
Shafiee, Atosa [atosa.shafiee @ gmail.com]
Visconti, Camilla [caviscon@syr.edu]
Case study: A local booming sustainable clothing market
Cencerrado Sánchez, Carlos; de Goey, Heleen; Kyrychenko, Iryn;
Rodríguez Huerta, Edgar; Shafiee, Atosa; Visconti, Camilla

Index

1. Abstract ................................................................................................................................. 3
2. Introduction .......................................................................................................................... 3
3. Objectives .............................................................................................................................. 4
4. Methodology ......................................................................................................................... 4
5. Framework ............................................................................................................................ 4
5.1. Social aspects ................................................................................................................ 4
5.2. Economic aspects .......................................................................................................... 6
5.3. Legal aspects ................................................................................................................. 6
5.4. Environmental aspects .................................................................................................. 7
5.5. Technologic aspects ...................................................................................................... 9
5.6. Backcasting approach.................................................................................................... 9
6. Problem analysis and apply methodology .......................................................................... 10
6.1. SCM Challenges ........................................................................................................... 10
7. Results: SWOT Analysis ....................................................................................................... 11
8. Conclusions ......................................................................................................................... 12
9. References ........................................................................................................................... 13
Case study: A local booming sustainable clothing market
Cencerrado Sánchez, Carlos; de Goey, Heleen; Kyrychenko, Iryn;
Rodríguez Huerta, Edgar; Shafiee, Atosa; Visconti, Camilla

1. Abstract
Worldwide demand for clothing and fashion is increasing to service the needs of a growing
population and higher standards of living. At the same time, communities and people should be
striving for more sustainable management of resources and the reuse.

The research considers the current trends of sustainability development of apparel industry
within Barcelona local market, identified problems hindering the improvement of sustainability
activity of all supply chain and stakeholders.

We consider the new trend within the fashion industry such as slowing down the fashion
industry on local markets. Examining sustainable development in main aspects (economic, social
and environmental and others) and using the SWOT methodology, to develop proposals for
effective sustainability development of clothing industry in Barcelona.

2. Introduction
Until recently, development in the textile and clothing industry has focused on technological and
cost aspects.

The research for sustainability in the apparel industry offers a dilemma since the fashion system
in which apparel designers operate is driven by practices that contradict long-term
sustainability. Fashion depends on forces that reproduce and feed each other: an individual’s
physical and emotional relationship with apparel, desire for frequent change in how s/he
appears, and the availability of a global supply chain mechanism that is eager to respond to this
desire. In this dilemma of the fashion system, what are the roles of designers and the local
fashion industries in responding responsibly? (Delong, Goncu-berk, Bye, & Wu, 2013)

The Brundtland framework adopted for sustainable practice in the apparel industry emphasizes
the interconnectedness of social, environmental and economic spheres (United Nations World
Commission, 1987).

Individuals buy new clothing to follow fashion, but also to establish, distinguish and update their
self-identity, an essentially differentiating act. It is challenging, therefore, for the user to change
habits that concern apparel with its dual motives, symbolic values and personal identification
roles and for the designer to shift perspective in order to address sustainability.

To slow down consumption patterns and find ways to really enjoy and savor our clothing. This
way of thinking might include new avenues specific to the fashion industry that are as yet not
fully developed, such as focusing more on collaborative and cooperative work among the
designer, producer, and consumer. This collaboration might best occur at the local level where
place and scale matter. (Delong, Goncu-berk, Bye, & Wu, 2013)

"Consumption is bad," "foreign production is bad", "working with artisans is good." These
slogans are not true in all cases, it is necessary to analyze the factors of the specific context of
the place: the economy, legal, culture, environmental aspects and the potential and the local
and regional capacities (Fletcher & Grose, 2012).
Case study: A local booming sustainable clothing market
Cencerrado Sánchez, Carlos; de Goey, Heleen; Kyrychenko, Iryn;
Rodríguez Huerta, Edgar; Shafiee, Atosa; Visconti, Camilla

3. Objectives
- The goal of this research is to analyze the realities of sustainability within one local context:
Barcelona apparel industry.
- This research shows an overview of the apparel industry; besides presenting their current
problems to achieve sustainable development in all 3 aspects (economic, social and
environmental).
- Use the SWOT methodology to give an overall picture of the situation of the sustainable
clothing industry and local market. Describe the main Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities
and Threats for each part of supply chain and principal stakeholders.
- Explain relevant aspects of local markets and how the local market could be applied
successfully, helping sustainability in apparel industry.
- Give a first approach for backcasting methodology applied in the study of the garment
industry.

4. Methodology
A SWOT analysis involves identifying the strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, and threats
around the stakeholders at a local and global scale in regards to the sustainable clothing sector.
A SWOT analysis will be very useful for us to achieve our objective of finding new ways to
improve the system with a series of recommendations for various processes.

We identify the SWOT factors and list them according to importance, considering where more
changes are needed in order to be more sustainable. We will use the following questions as a
guideline to understand what the strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats are:

- What is sustainable clothing/fashion? What specific requirements make a clothing company


‘sustainable’?
- Why should we have sustainable clothes?
- How is it possible to attain a cultural shift in consumption? What is the impact of perceived
obsolescence in the clothing culture?
- What factors prevent the ethical clothing market from booming and expanding? Why does
it remain a niche in the clothing market?
- Who are the key stakeholders involved? What is/should be their role in creating a more
sustainable garment industry?

5. Framework
5.1. Social aspects

The social aspects of slow-fashion, or eco fashion as it is also called, is a complex subject as it
covers consumption patterns/believes, public perception of producers/brands, as well as
identification. The definition of apparel, have expanded. DeLong et al (2013) describes apparel
“as the most intimate environment of a person”.

Apparel is no longer only an external shield for the body, protecting it or expanding its capacities,
it is today a tool for non-verbal communication. A way for individuals to show their personality,
Case study: A local booming sustainable clothing market
Cencerrado Sánchez, Carlos; de Goey, Heleen; Kyrychenko, Iryn;
Rodríguez Huerta, Edgar; Shafiee, Atosa; Visconti, Camilla

believes and even their political stand. The more intimate view of fashion and clothing, have
increased the desire of sustainable clothing. DeLong et al (2013) found that individuals who
sought and wore recycled and vintage clothing perceived their appearance as unique. More so
than those who only acquired their clothing from new sources.

The emergence of sustainable clothing in local markets, in the form of secondhand shops and
markets, are evident in local markets such as Barcelona. A city where secondhand and vintage
shops are becoming a more common characteristic, as new ones are blooming up all the time.
The interest of locals, and tourists, for secondhand and vintage has evolved into Saturday
markets, taking over specific streets.

Even if trends towards a more eco-friendly fashion industry is evident, with local designer shops
and secondhand shops. DeLong et al (2013), could see that most consumers today have learned
to expect mass produced items, which are not perfectly fitting. As a result from the “fast
changing trends, availability of inexpensive disposable clothing and ease of access to the newest
apparel”, i.e. fast fashion industry. A fast fashion industry that is aggravating the role of
designers.

But as mentioned, a shift is evident but there is a long way left before the industry is seen as
sustainable (Johansson, 2010). The view of the public is changing, and it is becoming more about
“things that really matters”, that have quality and a lot of integrity. That one can see conscious
consumption flow as a reaction of over-consumption and excessive brand fixation. She also
states how people long for simple things.

Simple things, in the view of sustainable cloths i.e. durable, long lasting and timeless cloths. In
DeLong’s research designers stated that they believe it’s “the job of the brands to create …
awareness about the importance of sustainability”. It is perceived that consumers by acquiring
information about the different products and their environmental impact will select the product
with the lowest environmental impact, (Niinimäki & Hassi, 2011) Research, Niinimäki (2010),
have shown that 94.6% are willing to buy better quality, durable, repairable and more expensive
cloths.

The longing for more sustainable and simple clothes, have quickened and strengthen the local
designers in the area. Creating areas that focuses on boutiques that promotes and show case
local designers as well as Spanish designers. These have evolved into Barcelona being seen as
the synonym to women’s fashion.

Local and domestic production seemed to be more important for older respondents and women
than for young consumers and men. (Niinimäki & Hassi, 2011)

However, sustainable and ethical purchasing will not take place if there is an additional cost to
consumers. Cost in terms of higher price, loss of quality or discomfort in shopping (Armstrong,
Niinimäki, Kujala, Karell, & Lang, 2014). A full 84.1% admits that price affects their decisions.
Displaying how the “selfish” aspect still decides the actions of consumers. Even though they
want more sustainable clothes, that aspect isn’t able to change the current price or even the
appearance, e.g. 70% believes that eco-clothing should be the same in appearance.
Case study: A local booming sustainable clothing market
Cencerrado Sánchez, Carlos; de Goey, Heleen; Kyrychenko, Iryn;
Rodríguez Huerta, Edgar; Shafiee, Atosa; Visconti, Camilla

5.2. Economic aspects

Sustainable, slow, fashion is not equivalent with stop consuming and producing. To stop produce
and consume would make the whole economical system to collapse, (Niinimäki & Hassi, 2011),
which local fashion companies could feel during the crisis in 2008. It’s a question about doing it
in a different way, a more sustainable way.

Barcelona is currently ranked as the fifth world fashion capital. With around 1,700 fashion
businesses employing 100,000 people and generating revenues round €13bn a year (FT.com,
2012).An evolvement founded in local fashion designers as well as Spanish brands moving in for
inspiration.

States that European fashion cannot compete on the basis of cost, to sustain its competitive
advantage over East Asia and low-cost production countries (de Brito, Carbone, & Blanquart,
2008). The solution is to be innovative and flexible. An advantage of small-local companies,
according to DeLong et al (2013), as they have the opportunity of being flexible in new materials,
production technologies, production levels and so on. DeLong et al, showed how local
Minnesota apparel businesses that offered designs related to local lifestyles have remained
successful, regardless of the fact that they financially cannot compete with mass manufacturing.

The advantages of producing local are many, the main ones are less traveling and keeping the
money in the community. DeLong et al, explains this as the power of designing local. By
shortening the traveling distances, one saves money in form of transport cost as well as saving
the environment from unnecessary emissions. In supporting local businesses, the money is kept
in the community. Helping the local society to evolve. A way to do this is as the Catalan
government, to support promotional events for the fashion industry, and their local brand.
(FT.com, 2012)

At the moment details of apparel changes often enough to encourage clothing consumption, as
well as encouraging consumers to frequently consume. However, investments in sustainability
need to be believed to generate a return, for profit-driven companies to embrace sustainable
practices, DeLong et al (2013).

The possibilities in the fashion industry are endless, especially in cities as Barcelona where the
fashion industry is an important part of the city’s economy.

5.3. Legal aspects

One element of the system of sustainability in the apparel industry are governmental and
industrial organizations, which taking responsibility for legal aspect.

In the research DeLong et al (2013) found that governments and industrial organizations have
responsibility for setting policies and providing a regulatory structure for sustainability in apparel
production, distribution, consumption and disposal.

DeLong et al (2013) describes the importance of a collaborative effort through an organization


called MNFashion. This organization offers entrepreneurial networking with activities that help
promote a sense of community among designers. The structure of the organization is such that
committees are formed to plan and develop local events Mission of this organization is to
provide a platform for the work of local designers through events that they sponsor.
Case study: A local booming sustainable clothing market
Cencerrado Sánchez, Carlos; de Goey, Heleen; Kyrychenko, Iryn;
Rodríguez Huerta, Edgar; Shafiee, Atosa; Visconti, Camilla

Governments should promote communities activity in providing sustainability development,


which is based on balanced and harmonized correlation between social, economic and
environmental aspects.

Besides, Governments can design a project of state-private partnership, which consists of


development of the strategies to sustainable clothing market and investment by state capital in
the local sustainable apparel market.

Therefore, local communities on the stage of formation should create general principles and
strategies directed for sustainability development on local market.

Each country needs its own strategy of sustainable development. As for local sustainable apparel
industry in Barcelona we can mention primary documents that names Strategy for the
sustainable development of Catalonia.

Thus, Barcelona sustainability action of the apparel industry should be grounded upon the main
legal aspects such as:

- Sustainability City Council’s programmes & policies;


- Organisations’ and companies’ action plans;
- Schools Agenda 21 Programme;
- Designers' action and action of their communities;
- Citizens’ action.

Voluntary commitments and partnerships for sustainable development are multi-stakeholder


initiatives voluntarily undertaken by Governments, intergovernmental organizations, major
groups and others that aim to contribute to the implementation of intergovernmental agreed
sustainable development goals and commitments in the Rio+20 outcome document “The Future
We Want”, Agenda 21, the programmed for the Further Implementation of Agenda 21 or the
Johannesburg Plan of Implementation of the World Summit on Sustainable Development.

5.4. Environmental aspects

The main environmental impacts from the clothing industry can be divided in three phases:
production, use and disposal. Depending on the textile, the production phase causes
environmental impacts, e.g. through use of chemical and pesticides. For example cotton
production makes an estimated use of 25% of all pesticides globally. During the use phase
chemicals in detergents end up in waste water streams (Chen & Burns, 2006). Disposal of
clothing can have various impacts, depending on the textile and disposal method, e.g. landfilling
or incineration.

Manufacturing practices in less-developed countries are generally less efficient than in the
developed world. That means they waste money by using more energy, water, and materials
than necessary. But by improving the efficiency in the manufacturing processes, there are plenty
of opportunities to both save money and improve the environment.

Even marginal improvements in manufacturing to these countries' factories have the potential
to deliver excellent cost savings. “Clean by Design” promotes just these kinds of opportunities
to increase efficiency (in energy, water, and chemical usage) and thereby reduce the
environmental footprint while saving the factory money.
Case study: A local booming sustainable clothing market
Cencerrado Sánchez, Carlos; de Goey, Heleen; Kyrychenko, Iryn;
Rodríguez Huerta, Edgar; Shafiee, Atosa; Visconti, Camilla

- Raw Materials: The choice of raw materials for clothing has large impacts on the
environment. Natural fibers like cotton are often assumed to be a more environmentally
responsible choice, but this is not necessarily true. Cotton is notorious for its intensive use of
water and pesticides. The same goes for "natural" dyes, which can rely on the harvest of
millions of insects or plant bark to achieve color the "natural" way. These dyes often also
require the use of supplementary chemicals that contain toxic metals. Fiber choice also drives
consumer-care requirements, which can indirectly impact the consumption of water, energy
and toxic chemicals.

- Manufacturing: Textile dyeing and finishing mills are particularly high-volume, high-impact
producers of water pollution and carbon dioxide emissions. Through extensive hands-on
research in China, NRDC has developed 10 practical, easy-to-implement best practices for
textile mills that significantly reduce water, energy and chemical use, thereby improving
manufacturing efficiency. In fact, all of NRDC's best practices for responsible sourcing pay
themselves back in less than a year. Designers, retailers and brands can reduce the footprint
of their global supply chain by encouraging or requiring mills to adopt these improvements
and reward those that do so with more business.

- Transportation: The apparel industry is a global enterprise, where raw materials,


manufacturers and retailers are routinely on opposite sides of the globe. Each designer and
retailer must choose among container ships, railroads, trucks and airplanes to move their
garments from factory to market. Each mode of transportation sends different levels of
pollution into the environment and affects different populations and ecosystems around the
world. But there are many choices a retailer can make to decrease the impact of global
transport and to help protect public health.

- Consumer Care: Once purchased, the way a consumer cleans and cares for garments can
have a surprisingly large impact on water and energy use. In fact, clothes that are frequently
laundered or dry-cleaned make their biggest environmental impact once they leave the
store. Washing in cold water and minimizing dry cleaning (even so-called "organic dry
cleaning") can reduce impacts substantially.

- Disposal: The method of disposal influences the overall environmental impact of clothing in
various ways. First of all, there are significant differences between impacts of disposal
methods such as incineration and landfilling. More importantly, recycling of textiles will
decrease environmental impacts even further due to avoided emissions from the processing
of raw materials. However, in most cases textiles are not recycled, but disposed with regular
municipal waste. This is e.g. because consumers do not know what to do with their garments
or because there are no options to recycle the textiles.
Case study: A local booming sustainable clothing market
Cencerrado Sánchez, Carlos; de Goey, Heleen; Kyrychenko, Iryn;
Rodríguez Huerta, Edgar; Shafiee, Atosa; Visconti, Camilla

5.5. Technologic aspects

There is great scope for technology development to support a move to reduced impact:

- New means to freshen clothes without washing would be advantageous.


- Technology for sorting used clothing would overcome the high labour cost of this operation.
- Fiber recycling technology has had relatively little attention in 200 years and has significant
scope – both for extracting fibers with less shortening and for fiber separation from blended
products.
- Ongoing development of detergents will allow further reductions in wash temperatures.
- Novel coatings and smart functions may support increased product life and reduced need
for care in use, although they may also impede material recycling.
- New longer lasting fibers would support durability.

Recycling is significant for materials with high impacts in the production phase. Technology
innovations may provide a means to extract longer fibers from used textiles, although a recent
innovative business for carpet recycling failed to achieve profitability (Lane, 2006).

Furthermore, innovations in nanotechnology might introduce environmental benefits to the


textile industry. Manipulating fabrics at a nano-scale can possibly change their properties in a
remarkable way. Relevant to sustainable fashion are certain coatings and other finishes, which
potentially extend the product life or reduce the need for laundering. They might also aid to
improve dye uptake and color fastness that would further decrease the harmful impacts of the
dyeing processes. Although nano-scale technologies seem to bring about environmental
improvements, the long-term behaviour of nano-particles in fabrics is still under further
research (Black, 2008).

5.6. Backcasting approach

Backcasting originated in the 1970s in the energy sector. The method is focused on envisioning
the future and planning towards that future accordingly. The first step of backcasting is to set
the goal or target for the future. Second, an analysis is conducted to assess whether or not
change is required to meet the goal. After that, the goal is elaborated further in more detail.
Last, the set goal is analyzed in relation to other societal factors and it can be compared to status
quo (Wangel, 2011). Later on, the method of backcasting developed further to apply the method
to sustainability issues (Vergragt & Quist, 2011).

In a local case study it could be proposed to buy and sell only “green clothes” as a goal - a vision
where the negative environmental and social impacts of the clothing industry are eliminated,
while the sector continues to be economically viable. To fulfill this, buying clothes and apparel
in sustainable conditions need to be considered. This will include the following aspects:

- Select the raw material assuming to be a more environmentally responsible choice.


- Choose only clothes which are manufactured with correct labor conditions.
- Analyzing the correct technology used respecting the environmental nearby.
- Taking into account a market research of the prices, not leave the margins.
- Asses the “green certificates” in the clothing market.
- Promote the sustainable use and recycling of the clothes once they are sold.
Case study: A local booming sustainable clothing market
Cencerrado Sánchez, Carlos; de Goey, Heleen; Kyrychenko, Iryn;
Rodríguez Huerta, Edgar; Shafiee, Atosa; Visconti, Camilla

- Promote appropriate disposal options and develop infrastructure for clothes take-back
programs.
- Develop legislation to stimulate the main stakeholders to take action towards a sustainable
clothes market.

6. Problem analysis and apply methodology


We use SWOT methodology to analyze the situation in clothing industry and focus in each part
of supply chain management and different stakeholders who involves all different aspects.

- Customers.
- Retail marketers.
- Designers / Manufactures.
- Input suppliers.
- Institutions, environmental agencies.
- Workers.

6.1. SCM Challenges

To process the fiber that later become clothing, it should be adequate industry capable of
working with small amounts and localization companies and storage. Also it must be able to
adapt to the materials produced locally.

The local fashion can be a transformative process that improves the economy, aesthetics and
cultural diversity of a region; however, globalization weakens the cultural variety of fashion,
makes a mere surface ornament, traditions brakes and accelerates the homogenization of
markets.

Sustainable clothing with an approach to local markets should force to designers to be supply
chain part to mobilize and reduce intermediaries in the production process, requiring a greater
knowledge of local traditions and getting a community participation.

To know the impact that the trade in the region and their communities is essential to the made
decisions process during product development. The local design is rich and diverse from nature
and it emerges from the skills and resources of a specific area.
Case study: A local booming sustainable clothing market
Cencerrado Sánchez, Carlos; de Goey, Heleen; Kyrychenko, Iryn; Rodríguez Huerta, Edgar; Shafiee, Atosa; Visconti,
Camilla

7. Results: SWOT Analysis


S Strengths W Weaknesses
Flexible Economy of scale
Individualism Reuse, Reduce,
production Only local market
Unique & Repair, Recycle Marketing
Keep money in
Exclusive Reduce raw
Uncompetitive
potencial ----
community price
Ethics aspects materials
Reduce SCM costs Profitability

Governmental Apply new Create new


Only local raw
support materials trends Small pressure
materials -----
Getting new eco- Constant Normcore group
Slow-production
labels innovation Vintage

O Opportunities T Threats

Reduce pollution Low-cost Education for


Small niche Access to production sustainability
for SCM
market information
(emissions, Benefits of fast- Consume ----
Subvention Socially accepted paradigm
Waste water) fashion
Crisis

Piracy
Improving Lack of legal
New research Barcelona: The
normative framework Technology too
Materials more worlds fifth Difficult application Old Fashion
Support global expensive
resistant fashion capital Interests of
agencies multinational

Economics Social Environmental Legal Technology Others


Case study: A local booming sustainable clothing market
Cencerrado Sánchez, Carlos; de Goey, Heleen; Kyrychenko, Iryn;
Rodríguez Huerta, Edgar; Shafiee, Atosa; Visconti, Camilla

8. Conclusions
We can say that the optimum for a fashion brand is to make a comprehensive sustainability
management, operating in all aspects of management, from the type of fabric used to managing
once discarded clothes. And you need to develop codes of ethical conduct and social production
(Soler & Ruano, 2012).

Slowing down the fashion industry, by focusing on local markets seems to be the new trend
within the fashion industry. The benefits of operating in a local market are many, e.g. flexible
production (product, size, technology), reduce SMC costs, produce individual products,
governmental support, and so on. Research has also shown that local brands consumers are
loyal, even at financial crises. Much to do with the fact that consumer feels a connection to the
brand in itself and what it stands for, an emotional connection that is hard to break. However
one of the main benefits with local markets in regards to global is the “reuse, reduce, repair and
recycle” opportunity. A local market, company, interact with the consumer, having a higher level
of influence as well as higher possibilities to offer services such as repair, in store recycling and
reuse in the sense of secondhand or reusing the fabric.

As the SWOT-analysis shows, there are several strengths and opportunities to create a viable,
sustainable, local fashion industry. Especially social and environmental factors would benefit in
a local fashion industry. However, the legal framework provides several challenges and threats,
prevented an expansion of this business. This illustrates the interactions between local markets
and larger systems, meaning that national governments will need to develop the right legal
frameworks to stimulate the development of a sustainable clothing industry. This will not only
depend on the Spanish government, but most likely will be influenced by European regulations
as well.

In order to create a local, sustainable clothing market, a vision needs to be created considering
all five aspects: economic, social, environmental, legal and technological. It needs to be clearly
defined what this sustainable market would and would not entail before proper steps could be
taken towards the implementation. In collaboration with all stakeholders, the local sustainable
clothing market could be developed in Catalonia, Spain as well as on other locations.
Case study: A local booming sustainable clothing market
Cencerrado Sánchez, Carlos; de Goey, Heleen; Kyrychenko, Iryn;
Rodríguez Huerta, Edgar; Shafiee, Atosa; Visconti, Camilla

9. References
Chen, H-L. & Burns, L.D. (2006). Environmental Analysis of Textile Products. Clothing and Textiles
Research Journal, Vol. 24(3), pp. 248–261.

Armstrong, C. M., Niinimäki, K., Kujala, S., Karell, E., & Lang, C. (2014). Sustainable product-
service systems for clothing: exploring consumer perceptions of consumption alternatives
in Finland. Journal of Cleaner Production, 1–10. doi:10.1016/j.jclepro.2014.01.046

Black, S. (2008). Eco-Chic: The Fashion Paradox.

De Brito, M. P., Carbone, V., & Blanquart, C. M. (2008). Towards a sustainable fashion retail
supply chain in Europe: Organisation and performance. International Journal of Production
Economics, 114(2), 534–553. doi:10.1016/j.ijpe.2007.06.012

Fletcher, K., & Grose, L. (2012). Gestionar la sostenibilidad en la moda. Capitulo 10: Local. In
Fashion & Sustainability (pp. 106 – 112).

FT.com. (2012). Modern Barcelona. Retrieved from http://www.ft.com/cms/s/0/30fb04fa-


b021-11e3-b0d0-00144feab7de.html#axzz324HZ2B5v

Johansson, E. (2010). Slow fashion. the answer for a sustainable fashion industry?

Lane, M. (2006). Well dressed ? The present and future sustainnability of cloting and textiles in
the UK.

Niinimäki, K., & Hassi, L. (2011). Emerging design strategies in sustainable production and
consumption of textiles and clothing. Journal of Cleaner Production, 19(16), 1876–1883.
doi:10.1016/j.jclepro.2011.04.020

Soler, J. (Universidad P. de M., & Ruano, M. (2012). Hacia el concepto de moda sostenible. IED
Madrid: Abre El Ojo, 19.

Vergragt, P. J., & Quist, J. (2011). Backcasting for sustainability: Introduction to the special issue.
Technological Forecasting and Social Change, 78(5), 747–755.
doi:10.1016/j.techfore.2011.03.010

Wangel, J. (2011). Exploring social structures and agency in backcasting studies for sustainable
development. Technological Forecasting and Social Change, 78(5), 872–882.
doi:10.1016/j.techfore.2011.03.007

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