Yes, Now your car will Run on

Water

1
Preface

This book provides a detailed guide to convert a fuel injected or carbureted motor
vehicle into money saving Water-hybrid system vehicle.

It is now possible to run your car using water as your primary fuel source. We have not
patented this technology, so that more number of people can utilize this information.
Once you have mastered the technique, you can assist your friends with the conversion.
This way, you'll also be preventing global warming, creating a better environment for
your family, and increasing the performance of your car.

The guide has three sections. It begins with a basic overview of this technology, and how
it works. The next section goes through the installation and the concluding section
explains the assembly and testing.

I hope you will find this book useful. It was a great experience and a bigger challenge to
put all the material together.

Please feel free to contact the author with your views, queries and suggestions.
You can mail your concerns on xxxxxx:

Get set VROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM !!

2
 TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction ...........................................................................................................6

Frequently Asked Questions ....................................................................................7

What is the Water-hybrid system?............................................................................. 7

Why Water-hybrid system? ........................................................................................ 7
Is this a new concept?................................................................................................. 7
What are the other uses of Water-hybrid system?.................................................... 8
How safe is Water-hybrid system? ............................................................................. 8
How good is the performance? .................................................................................. 8
Do I need to make major modifications to switch to this system? ............................ 9
This system must be difficult to build. Isn’t it?........................................................... 9
What is the basic concept of Water-hybrid system?.................................................. 9
Are there any ready-made Water-hybrid systems available?.................................. 11

Water – Hybrid System .........................................................................................12

Hydrogen / Oxygen Generator ................................................................................. 13

Flame Arrestor .......................................................................................................... 17
Water Tank and Pump .............................................................................................. 17
In-Dash Indicators (Optional).................................................................................... 18
HyTronics Module..................................................................................................... 20

Circuit Descriptions...............................................................................................22

Generator Electrode Schematic Circuit .................................................................... 22

3
 Generator Coil Schematic Circuit.............................................................................. 25
IN – Dash Indicator Schematic Circuit....................................................................... 27

Construction of a Water Hybrid system ..................................................................30

Setup of Generator ................................................................................................... 30

Electrodes ................................................................................................................. 30
Electrode-rod sub-assembly ..................................................................................... 33
Casing ........................................................................................................................ 33
Large generator casing (Skip this for regular size generators) ................................. 34
Threaded Cap Subassembly...................................................................................... 35
Disks .......................................................................................................................... 37
Rings.......................................................................................................................... 38
Housing Attachments................................................................................................ 42
Unthreaded End Cap................................................................................................. 48
Slosh Shield ............................................................................................................... 50
Flame Arrestor .......................................................................................................... 52
Water Level Switch ................................................................................................... 56
Toroid Coil................................................................................................................. 58
Installation of the Toroid Coil ................................................................................... 64
Unthreaded End Cap Installation.............................................................................. 67
Generator Final Assembly......................................................................................... 68
In dash indicator assembly ....................................................................................... 68
Water tank and pump............................................................................................... 73
Hytronics module...................................................................................................... 76
Fuel injector/ Carburetor Adapter............................................................................ 79
Throttle assembly ..................................................................................................... 79

Preliminary assembly testing.................................................................................84

Cylinder head temperature ...................................................................................90

4
Final Assembly and Testing....................................................................................91

Maintenance of Water Hybrid System..................................................................105

References .........................................................................................................108

Appendix............................................................................................................109

5
 Introduction

With the demand for energy increasing world wide, 4 times faster than the population.
New energy sources must be found. It does seem impossible - the idea of an automobile
running on water rather than gas. But actually, it is based on a well known fact that the
chemical composition of water is 2 parts of hydrogen and one part of oxygen. If we
could extract the Hydrogen and Oxygen from the water we could burn the Hydrogen as
a fuel (it's highly efficient) and use the Oxygen as an oxidizer that assists in the burning
of the hydrogen. This simple fact forms the basis of the Water for Fuel brigade.

If you want to look at the plus points of such an alternative, here are a few
• Water is a virtually free resource
• As compared to conventional fuels like gas and coal, water is abundant
• Clean environment. will add only water and oxygen into the atmosphere
• Reduction in global warming
• No trips to the gas station
• Reduce gas demand and our economical dependability
So, through this book, we would try to answer your questions about the feasibility of
such an exercise, which, if provided the right direction and exposure can perform as one
of the most revolutionary replacement for our long standing fuel problem.

6
 Frequently Asked Questions

What is the Water-hybrid system?

A Water-hybrid system is a water fueled electro mechanical system in a vehicle that
uses an on-board hydrogen generator to create on demand, a gas that supplements
standard gasoline drastically increasing fuel efficiency.

Why Water-hybrid system?

There are many advantages of using a water-hybrid system. Some of them are listed
below.

It utilizes water as fuel which is free and inexhaustible resource.

The byproduct of this combustion is water vapor. So the emissions are also cleaner,
and non-polluting.

It removes pollutants from air during the combustion.

Like higher octane fuels, it also reduces the carbon within the engine.

It produces sufficient quantity of hydrogen and oxygen on demand and is high on
fuel efficiency.

Great alternative for other valuable and diminishing sources of fuel.

Is this a new concept?

Electrolysis of water is not a new concept .It was accomplished a century ago. At first
this process was found to be inefficient. Output energy derived from the combustion of

7
hydrogen and oxygen was much less compared to the high input electrical energy. After
years of research and experimentation, finally an extremely efficient system was
developed on the same principle. A HyTronic module was built which produced
relatively low voltage pulses but of unique shape and precise frequency and duration.

What are the other uses of Water-hybrid system?

Any type of home appliance that requires natural gas or propane as fuel can run on fuel
generated from Water-hybrid system. Appliances like heaters, stoves, barbecue grills
are some of the examples of the appliances than can work on this system. The cost of
energy used by this system is much less than the cost of current sources.

How safe is Water-hybrid system?

As compared to hydrogen powered vehicles, vehicles running on Water-hybrid system

are intrinsically safe. In case of hydrogen powered vehicles, a hydrogen tank is used for
storage whereas in this system combustible hydrogen is extracted as and when needed.
Therefore there is no accumulation of hydrogen in large quantities.

How good is the performance?

For any engine the performance depends on various factors like weight and shape of the
vehicle, environment and driving habits. Water-hybrid system vehicle increases the fuel
efficiency up to 45 % and is capable for traveling 50 to 300 miles on each gallon of
water.

8
Do I need to make major modifications to switch to this system?
No, Water-hybrid system is a conversion system and there is no need to alter or remove
the existing system on your vehicle. You will get a choice of running your vehicle either
on your existing system or on this system. But given a choice one will always opt for
money saving, eco-friendly and better performance Water-hybrid system.

This system must be difficult to build. Isn’t it?

No, compared to other conversion models available in the market this system is very
easy to assemble and install. If you have average electronic skills and regular tools and
equipments that normally are present in a home workshop, the job will be done.
You might need an oscilloscope to get peak efficiency from the HyTronic module.

What is the basic concept of Water-hybrid system?

This system works on the principal of electrolysis of water. This process can be
illustrated with the help of a small experiment that will help you understand the basic
concept.

You will need the following:

1. A fish tank filled with tap water
2. Two 8 oz glass
3. Two #16 copper wires (insulated and bare at both of the ends)
4. Salt
5. Baking soda or vinegar for the electrolyte.

9
Procedure

Add about one part salt or baking soda to 20 parts water. Stir well.

Fill both glasses with the water and then stand them up straight in the water with a
small tilt as shown in the drawing (Fig. 1)

Connect 5 batteries in series using alligator clips and wires.

Fig. 1
Observation
When you connect the batteries you will see tiny bubbles of gas form on the negative
wire first them the positive wire. The negative wire will give the most, it is the Hydrogen
gas. As the bubbles accumulate, they will push the water out of the glasses. Again at the
negative electrode there will be more accumulation of gas than at the positive
electrode. The gas at the negative pole is hydrogen and the gas at the positive electrode
is oxygen, pure oxygen. The electric current separates the molecules of water into two
elements which are 2 hydrogen atoms and one oxygen atom.
The process is called electrolysis. The extracted hydrogen is used as a fuel for
combustion in the Water-hybrid system.

10
Are there any ready-made Water-hybrid systems available?
As of now, there is no ready to install Water-hybrid system available in the market.
Some distributors offer fully assembled kits made from similar technology or do it
yourself parts. We are in a process of making some prototype kits that can be directly
installed on any vehicles. But as you are going to build your own kit by following simple
instructions from this e-book, you can start manufacturing your own kits.

11
 Water – Hybrid System

The following diagram (Fig. 2) will help you to get a clear idea of Water-hybrid system.

Fig. 2

The role of each component in brief is described below

The Hydrogen/Oxygen generator – This component is the heart of the system. It

converts water into a combustible gas which powers the engine.

Water Tank and Pump - It stores water and supplies water for the generator.

12

HyTronics Module – it generates and supplies electronic signals for the Hydrogen
Oxygen generator.

In- Dash Indicator assembly helps to accurately monitor the system

Each component of this system is designed to give best service and long life. Detail role
of each component and their interaction with each other is explained in the next
section.

Hydrogen / Oxygen Generator

Before going into details of this generator, I will tell you a bit about its history. Garrett’s’
Gauge is a complete hydrogen/oxygen system. It has all the basic elements. But it failed
only because of lack of vital technology. Charles Garrett originally patented this gadget
back in 1932 (US Patent 2,006,676), terming it an “Electrolytic Carburetor.” He had
proposed charging the electrodes with a “storage battery” which was an inadequate
power source. Lead plates served as the water capacitor and weak sulfuric acid as
electrolyte. The water chamber had to be electrically non-conductive so it was
constructed from bakelite. Water level was controlled mechanically by means of a float
and needle valve assembly. An electric motor helped to drive the gear with an offset pin
and linkage, actuating a switch to reverse battery polarity to the plates. Garrett Gadget,
is an evidence that the basic concept of a water powered engine is not a new idea. But
still improvisation was needed to make it more useful which happened after 70 years.

This Component is considered as the heart of the system. Fig.3 will help you to know
more about the different parts of this generator.

13
 Fig. 3
This generator constitutes of a round cylinder constructed with high temperature CPVC
pipe. CPVC is mainly popular in plumbing systems of building industry because it is
durable, easily moldable and has high temperature tolerance.

The Generator housing basically comprises of a coil and two cylindrical electrodes made
of stainless steel or/and ceramic. Both these material are extremely durable. These
electrodes generate hydrogen and oxygen. The hydrogen generated within this
generator is of two atomically different forms. One form is orthohydrogen and other is
parahydrogen.

14
Orthohydrogen is a very powerful and fast burning gas. These electrodes are activated
and controlled by a precise and controlled high frequency signal from the HyTronics
module.

Compared to the quantity of orthohydrogen, generated by the generator, parahydrogen

is quiet less. It is also less powerful and slower burning than orthohydrogen. But the
main function of parahydrogen is to prevent pre-combustion which is commonly known
as “knocking”. It boosts the octane level of hydrogen mix and helps to slow the burning
rate.
To match your engine’s octane requirement and to raise its levels, gasoline and specific
additives must be used. Actually this purely depends on experience and varies from
engine to engine.

This generator is an electronic based unit. Similar to the experiment explained in the
FAQ. The two electrodes act as capacitors and water acts as a dielectric. High frequency
signal coming from HyTronics module powers the system .The outer electrode is
positively charged and the inner one is negatively charged.

Each water molecule constitutes of two positively charged hydrogen atoms and one
negatively charged oxygen atom. When electric signal is passed through the electrodes,
the water molecules split. The negatively charged oxygen atoms get attracted towards
the positive electrode (outer electrode).Similarly, the positively charged hydrogen
atoms are attracted towards the negative electrode (inner electrode).Each water
molecule gets aligned between the electrodes and the ends are being pulled in opposite
directions. The alignment becomes more accurate and the pulling action increases. Buts
since the HyTronics signal keeps charging the water capacitor to higher voltage level,

15
the water molecules burst apart. Due to this disassociation hydrogen and oxygen are
released in their gaseous form. Tiny hydrogen and oxygen gas bubbles are formed.

In addition to the charged field circuit created by the water capacitor, another inductive
circuit is formed by the generator coil. A short pulse from the Hytronics module
activates the magnetic field of the coil. As and when the pulse stops the magnetic field
collapses. As a result an even stronger magnetic field is created but of opposite polarity.
Each pulse coming from the HyTronics module is very precisely timed in a way that
immediately after the magnetic field reverses another short pulse arrives.

Again the coil is charged and its magnetic field collapses. But now due to added energy
from the new pulse, the magnetic field becomes even stronger. Within seconds the coil
reaches saturation i.e. it attains maximum magnetic strength. This action is called an
inductive kick. The coil's reversing magnetic field vibrates the water molecules so
vigorously that they disassociate into parahydrogen and oxygen. This can be observed
since thousands of tiny gas bubbles are created around the coil. This is the main concept
on which the Water Hybrid system works. All the other components of this system help
to control the action of this generator. By varying the strength and frequency of the
pulses coming from the Hytronics module, one can adjust the rate at which the
hydrogen and oxygen in generated.

The water is stored in the water tank and is supplied through a pump. Level sensor and
switch helps to control the water level in the generator.
One port is provided to route gas to the engine and another port is used to monitor the
gas pressure buildup within the generator. A relief valve is provided for safety purpose
so that there is no excess pressure build up. A drain valve flushes out the accumulated

16
minerals and contaminants. Threaded bottom end cap helps for the occasional
maintenance and cleaning of the generator.

There are two pairs of electrodes coming out of this generator body. This is to provide
electrical connection for the electrodes and coil to the hyTronics module. The material
used for these electrodes is stainless steel, copper or any conductive material.

We recommend installing this adapter in the engine compartment to minimize the

routing of hoses, electrical wiring and gauge lines.

Flame Arrestor
Generator gas output hose is connected to a flame arrestor. Flame arrestor is then
connected to the fitting and check valve of the engine. This device provides safety, in
case if the engine backfires. It provides protection against combustion flashback inside
the generator. It is constructed from the CPVC material. The construction of this unit is
very simple. It consists of a small diameter pipe stuffed with stainless steel wool and
having end caps with hose fittings. These types of fire arrestor devices are readily
available at engine shops. Since these types of fire arrestors are designed for converting
engines to run on propane, they can be used for Water Hybrid systems.

Water Tank and Pump

Though this is the simplest part of the system, just about any large container will not
suffice. We would also require monitoring the water quantity so that this system
becomes highly reliable. For this you will have to install water level sensors which are
relatively expensive. Otherwise, you will need to compare the miles versus the quantity

17
of water consumed. Alternatively, you will have to keep checking the water level
manually and may run into the danger of having a dry tank.

A 2 gallons tank with translucent water level marking is the best you can also go for 0.5
to 1.5 gallons capacity tank. The more the capacity the better since the extra gallons
ensure that there is less refilling. We recommend a vent tube of about 6 inches to
prevent spilling due to sloshing water.

The pump location is very important. You can install it in the engine compartment, if you
are using a self-priming pump. Else you will need to mount the pump directly on to the
tank.

We recommend you to use a self priming pump because it makes the job simpler
and more reliable. There are two reasons for recommending this.
If you are not using self priming pump, you will have to run an extra power lead back to
the trunk. Also, the water hose connecting the pump and the generator should be
capable of withstanding at least 66 PSI water pressure. A maximum pressure of 65 PSI is
produced in the generator and an additional 1 PSI is needed to activate the one way
valve installed on the generator housing.

In-Dash Indicators (Optional)

To ensure better monitoring of Water – Hybrid system, two gauges are recommended.
One gauge is needed to check the generator pressure and other one for engine cylinder
head temperature. Four indicator lights: GEN WATER LOW, PUMP ON, Tank WATER

18
LOW, POWER ON is recommended. These can be mounted on the vehicle dash board for
easy supervision.

Fig 4

The dash board indicators are not mandatory components. You can skip the same
if it is not within your budget and technical expertise

CHT and generator pressure gauges help in monitoring and tweaking the system to
obtain maximum performance and economy. You will get a clear idea on how the
system will respond to various driving conditions by keeping an eye on these indicators.

The Power On indicator glows when the system is started and will remain lit as long as
the system is working. The HyTronics module powers this indicator. So if this indicator
goes off while the system is still working we can make out that the HyTronics module is
at fault.

19
The Tank Water Low indicator will glow when the water level in the tank drops to 1/3rd.
When the water is refilled in the tank this indicator should go OFF.
Normally, the Gen Water Low indicator is OFF. When the generator starts and the fuel
i.e. water, is consumed, water level in it will gradually decrease. When this level drops
drastically beyond a point, the Gen Water Low light will glow. Now, the water pump
should start pumping water. This should be indicated by the Pump On light. When
Generator water rises back to its normal level, the Gen Water Low light will be put OFF.
At this time, the pump should stop running, turning OFF the Pump On light.

So, under normal operating conditions, Gen Water Low light and Pump On light will
glow and will be put OFF at the same time. If this does not happen or you find the lights
to be glowing in other combinations, then the system is faulty.

HyTronics Module
HyTronics Module supplies power to all electrically operated devices in the Water -
Hybrid System. There are separate circuits for performing various functions. This
module contains electronic circuits to perform various function listed below.

• It receives signal from the water level sensor and then controls the power that is
to be supplied to the pump.

• It provides power to the generator electrodes in the form of high frequency

signals. This results in the creation of orthohydrogen and oxygen.

• It provides power to the generator coil in the form of low frequency signal. This
results in the formation of parahydrogen and oxygen.

20
• It provides busing and terminal ports for power distribution to indicators,
sensors and gauges

21
 Circuit Descriptions

Generator Electrode Schematic Circuit

The output of this circuit is square wave which is applied to the cylindrical electrodes of
the generator. Please refer Fig5 .The time duration for which this square wave pulse is
ON and OFF is same .In other words we can say that the ON: OFF ratio of this pulse is
1:1.Now in Fig 6, the ON: OFF ratio is 2:1.So in this case the time duration for which the
pulse is ON is two times that of the time duration for which the pulse will be OFF.

Fig 5
ON: OFF Ratio is 1:1

Fig 6
ON: OFF Ratio is 2:1

22
We can vary this ratio from 1:1 to 10:1 as required. One complete ON: OFF sequence is
called a cycle. To calculate the frequency, we will have to check how many such cycles
occur within a second. If 100 of such cycles occur within a second, then we say that the
pulse is having a frequency of 100 cycles per second (100cps).A scientist named Hertz
researched on the practical uses of these electrical signals. So in his honor, cycle per
second was renamed as ‘Hertz’.
1000 Hz (or cycles per second) = 1 KHz
The output generated from the generator electrode circuit can be varied from 8 KHz to
260 KHz.

The square wave pulse ratio establishes the amount of current sent to the Generator
electrodes by the circuit.

Very little Hydrogen and oxygen is produced when the ratio is low (1:1), whereas when
the ratio is high i.e. 10:1, maximum current reaches the electrodes, thereby producing
the maximum gas volume.

The amount of gases produced is controlled by the potentiometer. Varying voltage input
from a potentiometer connected via a 10K resistor to pin 3 of component LM741 causes
the circuit to vary the pulse ratio, and therefore controls the amount of gases produced.

The potentiometer shaft connects to the vehicle throttle linkage, enabling control of gas
volume in direct response to voltage changes correlating with rotation of the
potentiometer shaft in relation to throttle positioning. A trimming potentiometer
connects pins 2 and 6 of component LM741, enabling precise adjustment of the throttle
input signal.

23
A detailed circuit diagram of the generator electrode circuit is shown in Fig 7

Fig 7

24
A second trimming potentiometer connects pins 4 and 7 of component NE555, enabling
precise pulse width adjustment. The electrode pairs of each Generator exhibit a unique
frequency of electrical resonance at which optimum gas volume is created. This
frequency often varies considerably among different Generators.

Factors that determine resonance frequency

1) Electrode size
2) Electrode shape
3) Generator chamber size
4) Generator chamber shape
5) Spacing between electrodes
6) Coil parameters and relative positioning
7) Pulse amplitude (voltage level)

A trimming potentiometer connected between pins 1 and 2 of component CD4069

allows the precise frequency to be obtained. By selecting various combinations of
dipswitch connections to a bank of four capacitors, pulse frequency can be varied
between approximately 8 KHz and 260 KHz.

Generator Coil Schematic Circuit

The output of Generator Coil circuit is again a square wave which is applied to the coil of
the Generator.

The outputs of electrode circuit and the generator coil circuit are similar. But they
produce two different types of hydrogen in addition to oxygen. The generator
electrodes circuit produces orthohydrogen and oxygen and the generator coil circuit
produces parahydrogen and oxygen.

25
A detailed circuit diagram of the generator coil circuit is shown in Fig 8.

Fig 8

The optimum operating frequency for the coil is between 16 Hz to 25 Hz. The optimum
operating frequency of the electrode circuit directly depends on coil frequency since its
input signal is received directly from pin 3of the electrode circuit component NE555.

The electrode circuit signal is received through a ‘Divide by N’ logic circuit. This circuit
produces one output signal in response to a specific number of input signals. For e.g. if
the optimal frequency of electrodes is 20 KHz and the ‘Divide by N’ circuit creates one
output pulse for every 1000 input pulses, then the output of the ‘Divide by N’ logic
circuit will be 20 Hz. The signal is received via pin 2 of the component NE555, which

26
creates the required square pulses. These signals are sent via pin 3 to the base of the
transistor 2N3055, where they get amplified and are sent to the coil.

By adjusting the pulse width and amplitude trimmer potentiometers of its associated
circuit, the volume of parahydrogen and oxygen can be regulated. Parahydrogen acts
mainly as an octane booster but it also cools the combustion process. So if there is any
excess generation of parahydrogen then the engine efficiency will decrease. Therefore
the coil circuit should be adjusted in such a way that the parahydrogen produced is just
enough to prevent knocking (engine pre-combustion). However, when the CHT gauge
displays that the engine temperature is running very high, the volume of parahydrogen
can be increased to lower the temperature.

IN – Dash Indicator Schematic Circuit

As said earlier, the IN-Dash indicator is an optional device. But it is very useful for
monitoring and to have a better control. This circuit comprises of four LEDs for the four
indicators and two gauges.
A detailed circuit diagram of the IN-Dash indicator circuit is shown in Fig 9.

27
 Fig 9

A hose connects the generator pressure gauge (GEN PRESS) to the generator.
Similarly, the cylinder head temperature (CHT) gauge is connected to a sensor that is
placed under an engine spark plug.
The four indicators in this circuit are

• POWER ON
• TANK WATER LOW
• PUMP ON
• GEN WATER LOW

28
POWER ON:
As soon as the Water hybrid System is turned on this LED should glow. The generator
electrode circuit shown in fig 7 activates this LED. In case this LED does not glow on
starting the system, then the electrode circuit is faulty.

TANK WATER LOW:

When the water level in tank is almost 1/3rd of its tank level then the water level sensor
gets activated. The TANK WATER LOW LED receives the 12V DC signal and is illuminated.
Once the water is refilled in the tank, the level sensor opens and the LED is put OFF.

GENERATOR WATER LOW AND PUMP ON:

When the water level in the generator goes below a specified limit, the level sensors are
activated. Due to this, a 12V DC signal is sent to GEN WATER LOW LED to indicate that
the Generator water level is low.

PUMP ON
When the generator water levels sensor is activated, the 12 V DC signal is sent via a 10K
resistor to pin2 of LM741 detector. Output from the detector triggers the base of the
power transistor E3055T.Further this circuit is completed by activating the water pump
and hence illuminating the PUMP ON LED.
When the generator water level is restored back to the normal level the level sensor
opens. This will turn OFF the pump and both the LEDs.

29
 Construction of a Water Hybrid system

Setup of Generator
The overall size of the generator is governed by the demand of the engine. Different
vehicles demand different levels of gas. We will plan for a larger cylinder which
produces gas a little more than necessary.

Place the generator under the dash or preferably in the trunk of the vehicle.
We have the chlorinated polyvinyl chloride pipe (CPVC) which withstands higher
temperatures than PVC. CPVC Schedule 80 pipe is available in standard size of 4” (this is
the outside diameter of the pipe). We use this for the making the housing of the
generator. We can use 10” to 18” length depending on the space in the engine
compartment. A pipe shorter than a 10” is not advisable because it would not give us
the necessary capacity for the generator.

We suggest you use good quality tubing since the efficiency of this system can be
affected by it. All the dimensions of the tube must be within 0.05” throughout the length.

Electrodes

The outer and inner electrodes as we mentioned earlier are to be made of steel tubing.
According to the length of the CPVC pipe, obtain a 3.50” outside diameter tube of
thickness 0.040” to 0.063”. The alloy should preferably be T-340 stainless steel. This
tube will form the outer electrode.

30
Let us do some arithmetic to calculate the diameter of the inner electrode. The gap
between the outer and the inner electrodes should be 0.045”. This is sufficient for a
typical water hybrid system which produces hydrogen and oxygen.

Inner
Electrode

X
Outer
Electrode
Y

Fig 10

From the above figure we see that the inner electrode diameter should be 2x[X + Y] less
than the outer diameter of the outer electrode.
‘X’ is the thickness of the outer electrode and ‘Y’ is the sufficient gap between the
electrodes. In this case,
X = 0.040” to 0.063” and
Y = 0.045”.

We need to subtract [X+Y] twice because we need to find the diameter of the inner
electrode from the diameter of the outer electrode.
The inner electrode should be 3.50 – 2x[X+Y]

31
Obtain a stainless tube of the above deduced diameter preferably of T-340 stainless
steel. The thickness of this inner electrode should also be 0.040” to 0.063”.

1/4’’ holes around the

circumference at 45o
each

1/8 ’’ holes spaced at

3/8” interval

11/32
”
3/32”

Fig 11

As shown in the diagram, drill holes of ¼” spaced at 45o around the circumference of the
electrode at 11/32” from the edge. Similarly drill 1/8” holes at 3/32” from the edge and
spaced at 3/8” around the circumference of the electrode. Deburr the holes after
drilling.

Make sure you backup the electrode while drilling to avoid bending or deformation of
the electrode.

Use carbide tipped drill bits and lubricating oil for drilling. Also avoid overheating
by fast drilling.

Drill the 1/8” holes on the inner electrodes as well. Make sure you clean all oil using a
soft cloth and cleaning agent like acetone.

32
Electrode-rod sub-assembly
Now we need to make sure we can place these electrodes have points to get charged.
A. For this to happen, cut two stainless steel welding rods of 3” length, 3/32”
diameter and T304 alloy. Smoothen & deburr the ends.
B. Solder one of these rods to the outer surface of outer electrode and inner
surface of inner electrode. Make sure that the rods are parallel to the length of
the electrodes.
C. Moreover, the rods should protrude 2” from the ends of the electrodes. Solder
them with silver-bearing solder and flux which is suitable for soldering stainless
steel.
D. Scrub the cooled solder joints with brush & soapy water. Make sure that the
water is warm and bristles of the brush are hard. To avoid impurities, clean the
electrodes with warm water and wipe with soft cloth.

This is how the two electrodes will look like.

Fig 12

Casing

Let us build the ‘casing’ or ‘housing’ in which the whole water hybrid system would rest.
The casing is made up as mentioned earlier of CPVC.

33
The casing consists of a CPVC tube with two end caps – a threaded and an unthreaded.
These caps will hold the necessary valves for inflow & outflow. Moreover these would
hold alignment rings for the electrodes so that the whole assembly remains robust.

Avoid using regular PVC because it cannot withstand the temperature of the
system. Also do not use CVPC pipe greater than 4” since it does not provide safety from
rupture when subjected to high pressure.

Figure shows the overview of the assembly. Let us look at these one by one.
Take a 4” CPVC schedule 80 pipe for the casing. Instead of threading the pipe, a
convenient way is to purchase a threaded pipe nipple of 12” and cut off one threaded
end. Use a table saw or miter box to cut 2.75” of the threaded end. Now you have an
approx 10” pipe with one end threaded and the other end unthreaded. Smooth the cut
edges with smooth file or sand paper.

Fig 13

Large generator casing (Skip this for regular size generators)

If you require the assembly to be larger than 10”, you will have to couple a longer pipe
to the smooth edge. This is how you couple: Cut a pipe nipple to 5.5” and smoothen the
edges. Apply primer on the outside surface. Similarly apply primer to the inside surface
of the coupling. Apply a layer of cement uniformly, on both the primed surfaces.

34
Assemble the parts and allow drying for at least 10mins. Now apply primer to the
remaining part of the inside of the coupling and also to the mating part of the 10” pipe.
Apply a layer of cement uniformly, on both the primed surfaces. Assemble the parts and
allow drying for at least 30mins.
Skip the above assembly if 10” casing suffices.

Threaded Cap Subassembly

Now let us build the threaded cap sub-assembly:
A. Cut a disk which would fit the inside of the cap comfortably. Use a 1/8” CPVC
sheet.
B. Place it on a drill press bed and drill a ½” hole. Measure the inside diameter of
the threaded cap and cut a disk of that diameter on a fly cutter. Make sure that
the fit is comfortable, else cut again to the right size.
C. Similarly cut another disk of the same dimensions and a ½” centre hole. Join the
two disks by applying primer followed by cement.
D. Wipe off the excess cement and dry it for more than an hour. As shown in the
figure below, bevel the edges of the disks such that an edge of 1/32” – 1/16”
remains.

35
 Fig 14

Inner Diameter of threaded

1/32” –

Fig 15

Let us fit this into the threaded cap.

A. Apply petroleum jelly to the threads of the cap and the bottom edge of the
housing. Prime edges of the disk and end cap.
B. Uniformly spread a layer of cement on the primed areas and seat the disk in the
threaded cap. Use cotton swabs to wipe excess cement.
C. Till the disk seats firmly in the cap, thread the cap onto the CPVC housing. About
15mins should be enough for the cement to start working. Remove the cap and
put it to dry.

36
 D. Similarly cut 2 disks as shown above, bind them bevel them and install them in
unthreaded cap. Here however, there is no need to apply petroleum jelly. The
other procedure remains same – apply primer, cement coat and seat the disks in
the cap. Remove any excess cement by cotton swabs.
E. In the both the caps, we have an open ½” hole in the disks. Use electric tape to
cover the hole completely. Now rinse the caps with soap water and a soft bristle
brush to remove any petroleum jelly in the threads and casing. Wipe all
moisture with a soft cloth. Allow to dry for at least 8 hrs.
F. Now let us fill the cavity created in the cap by epoxy cement. Remove the tapes
which covered the hole in the caps. Cover the other parts with electrical tape to
avoid damage by the epoxy cement. The epoxy cement is made up of resin and
hardener. Mix about 4 ounces of cement in a paper cup. Gradually fill cavities of
both caps through the ½” holes. Make sure the epoxy is filled till it is flush with
the hole. Do not rush and invite air bubbles in it. The epoxy sets after 24 hrs.
After 24 hrs, remove all the electric tapes and grind away the excess epoxy.
G. Let us now fix the electrode holders in end cap. The outer electrode will be held
in place by a ring and inner electrode by a disk.

Disks
Let us see how we can construct the disks.
A. Using a fly cutter, cut a disk from 1/8” CPVC sheet on a drill press bed. The
diameter of the disk must be exactly equal to the outer diameter of inner
electrode. Make sure that the disk slides easily into the inner electrode.
B. Cut a correct size if the disk is too tight or too loose. Cut another disk of diameter
¼” less than the earlier disk. Attach the two disks together by applying primer
and then cement. Make sure the disks are center aligned.

37
 C. Grind a small notch on the outer diameter just enough for the rod welded on the
electrodes to pass.

½” hole

1/8”
each

Fig 16

Rings
Let us now build the rings.
A. Take a 1/8” thick CPVC sheet. We are going to cut a 3.5” hole. Make sure that
the sheet has at least 3” margin on all edges.
B. Now, keeping the same centre cut a ring with an outside diameter of 3-15/16”
(approx 3.94”). Make sure that the ring slides easily over the outer electrode.
C. Cut a correct size if the disk is too tight or too loose. Since the outer diameter is
3.94, it will slide easily into the threaded cap.
D. Cut another ring of 3-5/8” inner diameter but same outer diameter. Bind those
two rings together by priming followed by cement coat. Make sure you align the
outer edges. Air-dry for at least 30 min.
E. Grind a small notch on the inner diameter just enough for the rod welded on the
electrodes to pass.

38
 3-15/16”

3.5”

3 -5/8”

Fig 17

Having fit the rings and disks, let us assemble these in the cap.
A. To assemble the rings, cover the rings with electric tape on he outer diameter.
The tapes should be enough to create a comfortable fit in the threaded cap. Add
more tape if the rings are too loose. Remove some if tight.
B. Apply primer and cement to the flat surface of ring and lower flat surface of the
cap. Fit the ring in the cap and wipe off excess cement with cotton swabs. Let it
dry for 30 minutes.
C. To assemble the disks, cover the disks with electric tape on the outermost
diameter. Try to fit these comfortably into the inner surface of the ring assembly.
Add more tape if the rings are too loose. Remove some if tight.
D. Prime and cement the flat face of the small disk and fit it into the cap. Make sure
that the notches of both rings are at a direct distance of at least ¾”.

39
 Fig 18

E. Clamp the assembly with a C-clamp i.e. the disk and threaded cap. Let this sub-
assembly dry for at least 8 hours.
F. Now strip the electric tape covering the threads and other surfaces of the end
cap. There should not be any cement on the threads or the bottom surfaces of
the cap which touch the cement. Clean it well.
G. Drill a hole through the threaded end cap. The hole should be 37/64” diameter.
This hole should be cut through the lower surface of end cap, the filled epoxy
cement, beveled disk and the inner-electrode-holding disks. At the points where
there are notches, using a #41 drill bit, drill 2 holes all the way down to the cap
surface. Make sure that the electrode rods can pass through the holes without
losing alignment. Moreover, make sure that the electrodes seat perfectly on the
surface of the cap (in the rings and disks).
H. Using a marking pen, mark a short reference line near the top inside of the inner
electrode. Mark another short reference line near the top inside of the outer

40
 electrode, aligning it with the mark on the inner electrode. Remove the
electrodes from the cap. Cover these holes with electric tape.
I. Using electrical tape, cover the upper end of the inner electrode so that the
inner electrode fits comfortably inside the outer electrode. Make sure that some
part of the tape protrudes out for easy removal. Make sure that the bottom ends
of the electrodes are cleaned with acetone and a soft cloth so that all impurities
are removed.
J. Use a paper cup to mix about 2 ounces of epoxy cement and pour them in the
two holes so that they are half full.
K. Apply a continuous streak (¼”) of epoxy on the rod side of the outer electrode.
Make sure the streak is made on both inside and outside surface. We have made
small holes on the lower end of the electrode. Since epoxy flows through these,
it binds the electrode firmly to the cap.
L. As you gradually insert the outer electrode rod into the cap, the epoxy oozes out
gradually without any air bubbles. The rod pokes the electric tape on the lower
surface and moves out of the cap. You can now remove the tape. The outer
electrode is now installed.
M. To install the inner electrode, first coat petroleum jelly on the tape which we
have put on the inner electrode. Since the fit of the two electrodes are very near,
it will be difficult to locate the rod notch in the end cap. Here, use the alignment
marks we made by a marker pen on outer electrode.
N. Using that reference, the inner electrode needs to be installed in the same way
as the outer electrode.
In this whole exercise it in important to note that the end cap must seat on a firm base
so that there are no vibrations during epoxy curing.

41
 O. Further, place 4 pound weight on the electrode rims to make the seating perfect.
Make sure the weight is evenly distributed. The epoxy will start curing in ½ an
hour. Till then, keep cleaning any epoxy oozing out of the two holes on the
bottom surface of the end cap.

For an avg. temp of 70oF, let the epoxy cure for at least 24hrs. Grind out any epoxy
oozing on the rods and remove the tape from the inner electrode.
Our threaded end cap sub assembly is ready.

Housing Attachments
Thread the electrode assembly tightly on the generator housing. Though this is to be
done on temporary basis, it has to be firm. Secure the entire assembly on the inner core
of the large roll of tape.
Now we will need to fabricate three support brackets from an 18” thick CPVC pipe.

To get better efficiency, the coil must be placed approximately ¼ “above the
electrodes. For better clearance a shim is placed between the two electrodes and each
bracket. Care should be taken that the shims should not be cemented to the brackets.

Fig 19

42
A. Make use of scrap pieces of CPVC sheet of 1/8” thickness as shims, to be
installed between the electrodes and the brackets.
B. First apply primer to the brackets and inside walls of the housing and then apply
cement. They should be at 120 degree intervals. Then attach brackets. Let the
cement dry for at least 30 min before you proceed. Now remove the electrode
assembly from the housing.
C. Take 1/8” thick CPVC sheet and cut four ½”by 6” mounting bracket strips. Using
sandpaper or a file dress the edge of each strip

Fig 20
D. Join the two strips by first applying primer and then cement. Align the edges and
wipe of extra cement.
E. Cut 1-1/2”wide ring from the end of the coupling. Sand the side of the ring to
form a flat surface by using a band sander. Follow the same procedure to form
another similar surface.

43
 Fig 21
F. Cut each of two flat surface sections from the ring by cutting at both ends of
each flat surface. This will form two sections from the ring, each with flat outside
surfaces 1-1/2” by approximately 1-1/4”. Using sandpaper or a fine tooth file,
dress the edges of each section and round the corners slightly.

Fig 22
G. Attach a pipe section to each of the two brackets at their midpoints. Now apply
primer to the flat surface of each section and its mating surface on the bracket,
and then applying cement. Be sure to square the curved surface of each section
with the length of the bracket.

44
 Fig 23

H. Cut a section 1-1/2 “wide from the ring and make a doubler. Dress the ends. By
using sandpaper or a fine tooth file round the corners.

Fig24
I. Now thread the end cap into the housing temporarily and seat it firmly. Mark a
spot of ¼ “up on the edge of the end cap and select a point anywhere around the
housing. Remove the end cap. At first apply primer, and then apply cement, to
the mating surfaces of the doubler and housing. Now attach the doubler to the

45
 housing with its lower edge at the marked spot. The edge should be parallel to
the housing bottom edge. Allow the cement to air dry for at least 8 hours.

Fig 25

Choose a fitting point on extreme left or extreme right to minimize generator

space requirements.

Fig 26

46
J. Through the center of the 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” doubler and housing wall, drill a
37/64” hole. Be sure to keep the hole square with the housing wall. Threads will
later be tapped into the hole to install a barbed hose fitting to connect to the
check valve.

Fig 27
K. Clamp the brackets to a flat surface. The housing should seat evenly into the
curved section of each bracket with no gaps between the housing and curved
section. If required, loosen the clamps to reposition the brackets.

Fig 28

47
Unthreaded End Cap
To make an unthreaded end cap you will need the following list of materials
1. Thread taps, 1/8” NPTF and 3/8” NPTF
2. Two 1/8” NPT x 1/8” Barbed Hose Fittings.
3. Two 3/8” NPT Stainless Steel Inline Check Valves.
4. One 3/8” NPT pressure relief valve (specify pressure setting of 85 PSI).
5. One 3/8” NPT Internal Seat Drain Cock
6. Five 3/8” PTF x 3/8” Brass Barb Hose Fittings, Male Pipe Rigid (PTF Short)
7. Four 3/8” NPTF x 3/8” Brass Barb Hose Fittings, Female Pipe Rigid
8. One 35 SS Series Stainless Steel Top Mount Level Switch, 1/8” NPT.
9. One LS 11 Plastic Side Mount Level Switch, PBT, 5/8”-11 UNC.

A short length CPVC rod inside the end cap will be used as a spacer for the water
level switch.

Now we will build the unthreaded end cap.

A. Cut a spacer of approximately 2” long from 1” diameter CPVC rod by using a
miter box or table saw. Now drill a hole through the center of the rod its entire
length, and parallel to its length by using an “R” size drill bit. Also drill a hold
through the center of the end cap with the “R” drill.

Usage of miter box or table saw will ensure the cut will be a square one.

48
 Unthreaded end of spacer

Fig 29
B. Tap threads into one end of the hole drilled in the spacer, using a 1/8-27 tap. The
tap should be aligned parallel to the sides of the spacer and to tap to the correct
depth of 12 threads from the end of the tap.
C. Thread the 35SS water level switch into the tapped hole temporarily. Seat it
firmly. Insert the switch power leads from inside the end cap through the drilled
hole. Measure and record the distance from the inside surface of the end cap.

Fig 30

49
 D. First apply primer, and then apply cement, to the untapped end of the spacer
and its mating surface inside the end cap. Now install the spacer making sure to
align the holes in the spacer and end cap. Use cotton swabs to remove any
excess glue.

Do not use NPT taps. There is a possibility of leakage of water and gas through
them. Use only NPTF taps. The threads of both NPT and NPTF seal properly in NPTF
tapped holes.

Slosh Shield
Now let us build a slosh shield
A. Cut a 3-1/16” long section from 1-1/2” CVPC pipe using a miter box or table saw.
Drill four 1/8” holes into the sides of the pipe, spaced at 90 degree intervals and
¼” from the edge.

50
 Fig 31
B. Use a fly cutter to cut seven 1-57/64” disk from 1/8” thick sheet. Now drill a
3/8”diameter hole through the centre of one of the disk. Other Six disks cut will
be used for flame arrestor.
C. First apply primer and then cement to mating surfaces of the drilled disk and the
end of the pipe opposite the four holes. Now center the disk the pipe and attach
the disk to the pipe.

51
 Fig 32

Flame Arrestor
Now let us build a flame arrestor.
A. From 1-1/2 “CPVC pipe, cut a 3” long section using a miter box or a table saw.
B. From 1/8” thick CPVC sheet, cut a 1-1/2”disk using a fly cutter. The disk should fit
snugly into the cut pipe. If it not fitting properly, cut a total of four disks.

52
 Fig 33

C. First apply primer and then cement to the surface of each of the two disks. Join
the disks together. Now align the disk edges and wipe excess glue. Repeat the
same procedure for other two remaining disks.

Fig 34

53
 D. Similarly, make two stacks of 3 disks each from six disks cut while making slosh
shield. Allow the stacks to air dry.

The stacks of three disks should be air dried for at least 24 hrs.

Fig 35

E. Drill a 37/64”hole through the center of each of the two stacked disks.
F. Drill thirteen 1/18”holes through each of the two 1-1/2 “disks at the indicated
locations in the diagram.

Do not use NPT taps. There is a possibility of leakage of water and gas through
them. Use only NPTF taps. The threads of both NPT and NPTF seal properly in NPTF
tapped holes.

54
 Fig 36

G. Keeping the drill bit squared, drill two 37/64” holes through the top of the
unthreaded end cap, each located 1-3/4” from the center hole in the cap.
H. Using a “R” size bit, drill a hole through the top of the end cap 1-3/4” from the
center hole in the cap
I. Tap 3/8-18 threads into two 37/64”holes on top of unthreaded end cap
J. Tap similar hole on bottom of threaded end cap
K. Tap similar hole at the doubler of the housing wall.
L. Similarly, tap one hole each in the two flame arrestor end caps
M. Tap 1/8-27 threads into the “R” size hole closest to the edge on top of the
unthreaded end cap.
N. Tap threads into the 37/64” hole in each of the two stacks of three disks joined
by using a 3/8-18 tap.
O. First apply primer, and then cement, to the mating surfaces of one of the stacks
of disks and the 3” flame arrestor pipe. Keep the tapped end of the hole facing
outwards and attach the disks to the pipe. Repeat the procedure for the
remaining stack of disks.

55
 The drill bits squared with the curved outer surface of the unthreaded end cap. By
doing this, you will place the axis of each of the three holes at an angle to the axis of the
center hole. Tap to the correct depth of 12 threads from the end of each tap.

Water Level Switch

The water level switch comprises of high quality magnetic reed contacts.

A. The ohmmeter leads are to be connected to the switch power leads. After
suspending the switch from its power leads, verify that the ohmmeter indicates
closed switch contacts. If contacts are not open, go to step 3.
B. The switch float should slide upward gradually. The contacts should open at the
mid point of the float travel. If the switch is defective the contacts won’t open
properly, and hence it must be replaced. If contacts open properly go to step 4.
C. Mark a small dot on top of the switch float. Remove the float retaining clip at the
bottom. Then remove the float, invert and reinstall. Reinstall the retaining clip
verifying that the dot is now at the bottom and repeat the initial steps.

56
 Fig 37
D. Form a small bevel in the outer end of the center hole in the unthreaded end
cap. A countersink tool or a large drill bit can be used for this activity.
E. Light coating of pipe joint compound needs to be applied to the threads of the
switch and mounting spacer according to directions on the product label.
F. Switch power leads need to be inserted through the spacer hole and thread the
switch into place, seating it steadfastly.
G. Obtain a transparent container with an outside diameter of approximately
2-1/2” to 3-3/4” and inside depth of at least 3-1/2”.
H. The unthreaded end cap needs to be placed on top of the container with the
switch inside. Care needs to be taken that the bottom surface of the end caps
seats evenly on top of the container.
I. The end cap should be positioned so that at least one of the large tapped holes
projects inside the container and the switch float is at least ¼” away from the
container wall.

57
 J. The ohmmeter leads are connected to the switch leads. Verify the switch
contacts are closed. Pour water slowly through the large tapped hole till switch
contacts just open or remain open.
K. Add some water if contacts close again, wait several seconds before checking
again. Repeat this process until switch remains open.
L. The water level should be 2” from the top edge of the jar. If water is found to be
less than the specified limit, we can infer that the switch is defective and needs
replacement
M. Remove the end cap assembly from the jar. Dry with a soft clean cloth
N. First apply primer and then cement to the mating surfaces of the slosh shield and
end cap. The shield needs to be centered on the switch float.

Do not try to control power to any electrical device using a water level switch
directly. This will damage the switch. The water level switch when connected to a
properly designed electronic circuit will reliably operate through millions of cycles. This
switch operates with configurations having normally closed (NC) contact.

Toroid Coil
A Toroid coil is created from a ferrite toroid core with an insulated high temperature
copper wire hand-wound around it. The coil is drag and wound almost 2000 turns
around the magnetically sensitive. We recommend that you use Teflon insulated wire.
Though it is a bit costlier, it handles the high temperatures better and is reliable.

58
 Fig 38

Once the coil is made, it should be coated with a few thin layers of CPVC cement. This
will make it very strong and will be easily attached inside the housing. A special chemical
etching is required for sticking anything to Teflon.
If you get it done commercially, it will be quiet costly.
Recently, a product was developed called FluoroEtch. By using this product etching
process can be easily and safely done at home.
1. Warm FluoroEtch to about 130 degrees, slosh the coil around in it for about a
minute
2. slosh in isopropyl or methyl alcohol for a minute
3. wash in warm soapy water
4. rinse with warm water
5. Let it air dry.
Now you will be able to stick anything to this Teflon coated coil wire.
To make a toroid coil you will need the following list of materials
1. One Ferrite Toroid Coil Core, 3.50 OD x 2.00 ID x .500 Thick
2. Copper Magnet Wire, Teflon coate4d, Heavy Build, 23 AWG, 550 Ft
3. Teflon Etching Solution (“FluoroEtch”)

59
 4. One Package Heat Shrink Tubing, Assorted Sizes

Now let’s build the toroid coil.

Do not try to take an easy way out by wrapping the wire around the core several times
and pulling the rest of the wire on through. This continual bending and straightening will
tear down the wire. If you are skilled enough, you can use special equipments to do the
job for you.

A. Cut the magnet wire into four 100’ lengths and one 150’ length. This will help
you since you are going to wind this wire around the core almost 2000 times. By
doing so you won’t need to wind over 550 feet of wire. By cutting these wires
into 100’ and 150’ lengths, you will need to make four solder splices to the wire.
You can increase or reduce the splits but will have to increase or reduce the
amount of solder splices accordingly.
B. From 23 AWG wire, forming a 3.5” OD x 2” ID x .50” toroid coil will require about
250 turns of wire per wrapped layer. The coil size will go on increasing as it is
getting wrapped up. Each wrap uses an average of about 3” of wire. If we
calculate accordingly, each 100’ wire will provide about 400 wraps. So, four 100
foot lengths and one 150 foot length will be enough to make an eight layer coil
of at least 2,000 turns.
If you wish to stop wrapping at any point of time, ensure that you secure the last
wrap by tightly wrapping a plastic electrical tape. If it is not done the Teflon
material being very slippery, coil wraps tend to get loose. Save some wire in case
you may need it to complete the last layer.
The first layer is quiet critical since in all subsequent layers the wire will adjust
itself by nesting between the gaps of the previous wrap.

60
C. Fix a small heat shrink tubing of 1” length onto the magnet wire and apply heat
to shrink it in place. In case if you are right-handed, you’ll wrap the coil in a
clockwise direction, holding the core with your left hand. Lay the shrink tubing
on top of the core, angled to the left at about 30 degrees. Start wrapping the
tubing from its midpoint. Keep the wire wraps tights against each other on the
inside edge of the core. There should be no overlapping. The tension should be
constant and the wire should be always pointing straight out from the core.
Continue wrapping until you have completed a full turn.
D. The gap between any two wires should be a .019”. But, if it is not you can
position each wire close enough by using a short piece of coil wire as a feeler
gauge. If the feeler gauge wire touches the core surface between any two wires,
the gap is too wide, so at least one of the wires is out of position. Slightly shift
wires to close the gap enough to keep the feeler gauge from contacting the core
surface by using your fingernail, or other blunt-ended instrument.
E. Mix ½ ounce epoxy batch. Carefully apply a thin layer of epoxy on the outer edge
of the coil using a brush. Apply it in the direction of the wound wires so that the
wires don’t move. The epoxy should contact the coiled surface between the
wires. Suspend the coil from its wires and allow the epoxy to dry for at least 10
hours.
F. Now we will start wrapping layer number 2.Care should be taken that the
position of the wires in layer 2 covers the gaps left in layer 1. Do not forget to
count and record the number of turns while wrapping layer number 2. Keep
wrapping till about 1 foot wire end is left. Now cut a small piece of plastic
electric tape and secure the wire around the coil.
G. Wrap the wire for a couple of more turns and cut it half an inch short of the
outer border. For tying to the next wire length, open the wire and scrape the

61
 Teflon coating from about half an inch of each wire end. Care needs to be taken
to keep the knife at right angles so that wire is not damaged.
H. Cover the next length of coil wire with half an inch of heat shrink tubing. See to it
that the tubing is large enough to fir over the wire splice. To form the splice,
firstly twist the fire ends together (7 to 8 times), cut to about a quarter of an inch
and turn it back towards the coil until it lays flush against the coil wire. After
fusing the splice, slip on the tubing and heat it so that the tubing will shrink. Wait
for a couple of minutes for it to cool.
I. Now remove the electrical tape, and wrap until layer 2 is finished. Take a note of
the number of windings required to complete this second layer. This number
would be useful in calculating the number of layers that would be needed to
complete the coil with a total of 1800 to 2100 turns.

Be sure to end the last coil layer near the beginning of layer #1. Do not finish the
coil with a partial last layer.

J. Duplicate the steps until the last layer of the coil has been finished taking care
that the very final turn ends within a turn or two of the coil entry wire. Cut the
last wire to a length of about a foot.
K. A heat shrink tubing of about 5” length needs to be slipped over the ends of the
coil wires. Closely draw up the tubing against the outer coil border and bend the
leads back towards the coil at the outer end of the heat shrink tubing. Firmly
wrap each coil wire 4 to 5 turns around the heat shrink tubing about an inch
from the end and then wind the wires together for at least 5 -6 turns.
L. Etch the surfaces of the Teflon coated coil wires using FluoroEtch while
suspending the coil by the heat shrink tubing. The etching process description

62
 needs to be following rigorously as depicted on the product label as well as
elaborated in earlier section. Coil always needs to be handled by suspending it
from the heat shrink tubing during each phase, from etching through final warm
water rinse. Ensure that the dripping stops completely, this can be done using
clean paper towels to absorb the water drips from the bottom. Leave the coil to
dry for at least 4 to 5 hours.
M. Now coat the entire surface of the coil with CPVC cement. The layer should be
thin and even. Use a soft bristle brush for the coat and use cotton swaps to wipe
the excess cement. Allow the cement coat to dry for about an hour, and then
apply another layer of CPVC cement using the exact procedure as described
above
N. The CPVC cement coats need to be applied to the coil for about 5 to 6 times
allowing an hour of drying time between each coat. The final layer needs drying
for at least 8 hours thereby completing the cement coating process.
O. The coil wires can now be uncovered from the heat shrink tubing. Cut an inch of
length of heat shrink tubing large enough to slip over the coil wires and the
shrink tubing of the coil entry wire. Again, the tubing needs to be drawn up
against the coil outer edge and then heat needs to be applied for the tubing to
shrink.
P. Apply a thin bead of CPVC cement of about a quarter of an inch around the coil
end of the tubing and the outer coil border surface. Dry for about an hour,
before applying the next bead of cement layer.
Q. Suspend the coil from the end of its wires and allow it to dry for a day. Cut the
coil wires to a length of a 3” from the coil.

63
Installation of the Toroid Coil
Let us now install the toroid coil

Fig 39
A. Drill a couple of holes in the housing wall using a #41 drill bit.
B. Cut two 4” length of 3/32 bare stainless steel wielding rod creating a
perpendicular bend in one end of each rod to form a leg approximately an inch
and half long. Cut the other one to about three-fourths of an inch
C. Square off the ends of each rod and deburr the edges.
D. Scrape the Teflon coating from about half an inch of each coil wire end. Care
needs to be taken that the position of the knife should be at right angles to the
coat so as to prevent any damage during the scraping process
E. Wrap each coil wire end around the top of a one and half inch rod leg for 4-5
turns. Solder each wire to the rod leg using silver bearing electric solder,
trimming away any excess wire. Form a wire strain relief at the leg bottom by

64
 wrapping heavy thread at least 2-3 turns around the leg and wire finally securing
the thread with a knot at the rods outside end.
F. Clean the soldered areas using a brush and warm soapy water and allow to try
for at least an hour before proceeding to the next step
G. Apply a coat of an even layer of CPVC cement to the long rod leg allowing it to
dry for about 15 minutes before applying the second coat and repeat the drying
time before moving ahead.

Fig 40
H. Install the coil on top of the 3 brackets within the housing positioning the coil
with the wires and rods pointing towards the holes drilled. Mark the location of
each bracket using strips of electrical tape on top of the coil.
I. Remove the coil from housing and apply primer to the bottom of the coil at the
marked locations. Apply a coat on top of each bracket with a thick layer of CPVC
cement. Now mount the coil on the brackets in such a way that the wires and

65
 rods point toward the two #41 drilled holes. The rods and wires need to be
dried for at least an hour before proceeding ahead.
J. Remove the coil from housing and apply primer to the bottom of the coil at the
marked locations. Apply a coat on top of each bracket with a thick layer of CPVC
cement. Now mount the coil on the brackets in such a way that the wires and
rods point toward the two #41 drilled holes. The rods and wires need to be
dried for at least an hour before proceeding ahead.
K. After that, remove the three tape strips that were used earlier. Deburr the inside
ends of the #41 holes using a large drill bit and insert the end of the rods into the
drilled holes checking that the inside bend radius is clear of the border of each
hole. If that is not the case, obtain the right amount of clearance by making
changes accordingly by drilling deeper.
L. The surface of the unsoldered leg of each rod should be polished using #400 grit
or finer sandpaper. Mix a small quantity of epoxy such as J-B WELD and use a
thin coat of epoxy to the unsoldered leg of each rod. Also apply epoxy coat to
the inside of each #41 hole.
M. For one leg of the soldered rod, apply a heavy layer of CPVC cement. Now insert
the rod into the #41 hold with the soldered leg pointing directly upward holding
it in place for about 5 minutes until the cement dries sufficiently to hold it by
itself.
N. During this time, the epoxy from the rod needs to be cleaned using a solvent
such as MEK/Acetone.
O. Repeat the process for the remaining rod allowing the epoxy to cure for about 8
hours.
P. The coil wires need to be positioned in such a way that most of it is in contact
with the housing wall. Again apply a thick layer of CPVC cement over the wires

66
 and soldered leg of each rod. Cover the area around the hole where each rod
enters the housing wall by about half an inch. Leave it for drying.
Q. Now apply a thick layer of CPVC cement over and around the coil surface where
it connects to the support brackets. Leave it to dry for at least 15 minutes.
R. The application of the thick CPVC cement layer over the wires and the coil
surface needs to be repeated at least 4 to 5 times to get the desired thick layer
allowing a drying time of at least an hour between each coat.
S. The residue epoxy can be removed from the rod ends using #400 grit or finer
sandpaper after the epoxy has cured for at least 24 hours.

The location of coil electrical connections is recommended to be on the side of the

housing directly opposite the water pump inlet port. This will minimize possible coil wire
connector fatigue due to the effects of water turbulence at high pump pressure.

Unthreaded End Cap Installation

A. The end cap mating surface should be free of any kind of debris and the same
applies for the top end of the housing. Use mild solvent such as isopropyl alcohol
to get the desired effect
B. Once position is determined, primer and then a coat of CPVC cement needs to
applied to the mating surfaces of the end cap and top of the Generator housing.
Seal them firmly by sliding the parts together.
C. The whole housing assembly should now be stood on end so as to avoid excess
cement running into threaded holes in the end cap. Maintain this position till
cement dries

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Generator Final Assembly
A. The two rod ends that are protruding through the bottom of the threaded end
cap should be severed to a length of ½”. Now its ends are to be squared, and the
edges deburred.
B. All the threaded holes and the end caps in the generator housing should be
lightly coated with pipe joint compound. Also use this compound to the threads
of the drain cock. This drain cock needs to be threaded into the 37/64” threaded
hole in the bottom of the threaded end cap.
C. This process is to be repeated for the following components :
• 3/8” Barbed Hose Fitting into 37/64” hole in housing doubler.
• 3/8” Barbed Hose Fitting into 37/64” hole on top of housing.
• 1/8” Barbed Hose Fitting into “R” size hole on top of housing.
• Pressure Relief Valve into 37/64” hole on top of housing.
D. To form a smooth fillet of sealant around the leads and end of the hole, force a
small quantity of Silicone Sealant (RTV Cement) in the end cap through which the
water level switch leads pass. Allow the sealant to cure for at least 24 hours.
E. Apply a final check of all surfaces and components of the housing and end cap to
verify that they are as per the procedure planned correcting any abnormalities in
the process.
F. Now, the interior housing is to be washed, and allowed to dry to drain the water.
For the exterior and thread caps use a clean cloth for cleaning.
G. A light coating of pipe joint compound needs to be applied to the housing and
end cap threads, then thread the end cap onto the housing and tighten firmly.

In dash indicator assembly

A. The following materials are need

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• One Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) Gauge Kit, 2-1/16” Diameter,
(includes spark plug mounted thermocouple sensor) (Bus Boys Part #:
VDO-310901).
• One 2-Gauge Custom Console (Bus Boys Part #: VDO-1108720).
• One Pressure Gauge, 2-1/16” Diameter (Auto Meter Products Model #:
2360).
• Two Bulb and Socket Sets, 2 Watt (Auto Meter Products Model #: 2357).
o Four LED Indicators:
o Two Green (Radio Shack Part #: 276-304).
o One Yellow (Radio Shack Part #: 276-351).
o One Red, Blinking (Radio Shack Part #: 276-308).
• Three 55’ Spools 18 Gauge Insulated, Stranded Hookup Wire (Radio Shack
Part #: 278-1220).
• One 9-Position Male Interlocking Connector (Radio Shack Part #: 274-
229).
• One 9-Postion Female Interlocking Connector (Radio Shack Part#: 274-
239).
• Two Packages Crimp-On Snap Connectors (Each: 5 male, 5 female) (Radio
Shack Part #:64-3085 and 64-3086).
• One Package Assorted Ring Terminals (Radio Shack Part #: 64-3032).
• One Package Assorted Grommets (Radio Shack Part #: 64-3025).
• One 10’ length 1/8” Silicone Braid Reinforced Tubing (US Plastic Stock #:
54051).
• Twenty (20) Small Stainless Steel Worm Thread Hose Clamps (Local
Hardware).
• One Package Small Nylon Tie-Wraps (Local Hardware)

69
B. The CHT and pressure gauges are temporarily in the console. Also find the
best locations for the 4 LEDs and place reference marks at those locations on
the outside of the console.
C. A 7/32” hole must be drilled at each location. For a silicone sealant to adhere
to the console interior surface, roughen the surface immediately around the
area of the drilled holes with sandpaper.
D. Disconnect the CHT gauge thermocouple lead and mount the gauge in the
console. A light coating of pipe joint compound must be applied to the 1/8-
27 threads of the pressure gauge and 1/8-27 barbed hose fitting. Thread the
fitting into the gauge and slip the 1/8” silicone tubing fully onto the barbed
fitting and secure with two small stainless steel hose clamps. Now mount the
pressure gauge in the console.
E. Identify the anode (+) lead of each LED and cut to a length of 1”. Cut four (4)
3-foot lengths of 18 gauge hookup wire and strip ½” of insulation from the
end of each wire wrapping it around each anode lead and solder. Slide a 1-
1/2” length of heat shrink tubing over each wire and flush against the LED
and shrink the tubing.
F. Using masking tape, or other means of labeling, Attach an identifying label to
each anode wire.
• Green, PWR ON
• Green, PUMP ON
• Yellow, GEN WATER LOW
• Blinking Red, TANK WATER LOW
G. Cut two lengths of hookup wire to use as jumper wires between the bulbs
and sockets for the gauges. Now strip ½” of insulation from the ends of each
wire and solder a wire to one socket center connector. Then slide a 1” length

70
 of heat shrink tubing onto the wire and as far as possible onto the socket
base and shrink the tubing.
H. Cut a 3-foot length of hookup wire stripping ½” of insulation from one end.
Twist the ends of the soldered jumper wire and 3-foot wire together and
then slide a 1” length of heat shrink tubing onto the wires, and solder the
wires to the other socket center connector. Slide the tubing as far as possible
onto the socket base and shrink the tubing. Label the wire “Positive” (+).
I. Cut a 6” length of hookup wire and repeat the procedure above to connect
the 6” wire and jumper wire between the two socket base connectors.
J. Cut the cathode lead of the green “PWR ON” LED to 1-1/2” long. Cut the
cathode lead of the yellow “GEN WTER LOW” LED to 1” long. Cut an
appropriate length of hookup wire to serve as a jumper wire between the
cathodes of both LEDs. Strip ½” of insulation from each end of the wire and
solder the jumper wire to the yellow LED cathode. Slide a 1-1/2” length of
heat shrink tubing over the wire and flush against the LED and shrink the
tubing.
K. Twist the stripped ends of the jumper wire and 6” of step 6 together. Slide a
1” length of tubing over the two wires and solder them to the green LED
cathode. Slide the tubing flush against the LED and shrink the tubing. Cut a 3-
foot length of hookup wire and strip ½” of insulation from one end. Solder
the wire to the green LED cathode. Slide a 1-1/2” length of heat shrink tubing
over the wire and as far as possible onto the LED lead and shrink the tubing.
Label the wire as “Ground”.
L. The cathode leads of the two remaining LEDs need to be cut to 1” long and
also cut two 3-foot lengths of hookup wire. Stripping ½” of insulation from
the end of each wire solder the wires to the LED cathodes and slide a 1-1/2”
length of heat shrink tubing over each wire and flush against the LED and

71
 shrink the tubing. Label the green LED wire as “PUMP ON CATHODE” and the
red LED wire as “TANK WATER LOW CATHODE”.
M. Slide each LED into its correct mounting hole on the console. Slide one LED
about 1/16” back from the interior surface of the console and apply a small
amount of silicone sealant into the gap between the LED flange and the
console surface. Slide the LED back into place and flush with the console
surface. Apply a thick bead of sealant around the LED flange and about ¼”
onto the console surface. Repeat the same procedure for the three
remaining LEDs. Allow the sealant to cure for at least 24 hours before going
on to the next step
N. The bulbs and socket go into the gauges. Drawn the seven LED wires and
bulb socket wire together a short distance from the LEDs and secure the wire
bundle with a tie-wrap., Tighten the tie-wrap and cut off its unused strap.
O. Grind a hole to install a 5/8” ID grommet through the engine compartment
firewall at an appropriate location for routing of HyTronics wires,
thermocouple lead, and pressure gauge tube. Deburr the hole and install a
5/8” ID grommet. Insert the thermocouple lead through the grommet from
the engine compartment side and reattach it to its CHT gauge terminal.
P. Attach the console to the dash at the desired location. Secure the wires,
thermocouple lead, and CHT tube bundle with a tie-wrap placed about every
6” along the length of the bundle but do not over tighten.
Q. The eight wires are cut to the same length and stripped ¼” of insulation from
the end of each wire. Then each wire is attached to a separate pin of the 9-
Position Male Interlocking connector by soldering.
R. Remove a spark plug from the engine and plug the hole with a soft clean
cloth. For good electrical contact for the thermocouple, polish the area
contacted by the spark plug.

72
 S. Sealant cure time can be shortened considerably by placing a water-
dampened cloth within the console interior and placing the console into a
plastic grocery bag (don’t seal the bag so that it’s airtight). This method is
especially effective in dry climates. Use #400 grit or finer sandpaper. Remove
the cloth from the spark plug hole. Slip the thermocouple ring over the spark
plug threads and reinstall the spark plug. Tighten the spark plug to its normal
torque value.

Water tank and pump

A. The Water tank as explained is a 16 gallon capacity tank (minimum
requirement being 1 gallon) and is furnished with a ¾” FPT outlet filling
B. The following material is needed for the apparatus
• One Rectangular Polyethylene Tank, 16 Gallon, 21” x 14” x 14” (US
Plastic Part #: 8658).
• High-Low Temperature Silicone Tubing, 3/8” ID, 20’ (US Plastic Stock
#: 54037).
• Silicone Braid Reinforced Tubing, 3/8” ID, 20’ (US Plastic Stock #:
54055).
• One High-Head Pump, 12 vdc, 75 PSI (minimum) (Flojet)
• One Brass Busing, ¾” PTF Male x 3/8” PTF Female (Fastener Hut Part
#: 3220x12x06A).
• One Package Crimp-On Butt Connectors (Radio Shack Part #: 64-
3037).
C. A thin film of pipe joint compound is to be applied to the internal threads of
the ¾” x 3/8” bushing, threads of a 3/8” barbed hose fitting, external threads

73
 of the bushing, internal threads of the water tank fitting. Thread the bushing
into the tank and tighten firmly.
D. A 5/8” hole is to be drilled in the side wall of the water tank at the midpoint
of its length and 4” up from the bottom. A 37/64” hole should be drilled
through the center of the tank cap and threaded with a 3/8-18 tap
E. Remove plastic shavings in the tank and tank cap by flushing with tap water.
F. A 3/8” barbed hose fitting is threaded into the tapped hole and seat firmly.
Further, cut a 6” length of high-low temperature silicone tubing and slip the
tubing onto the fitting and secure with two steel hose clamps.
G. Connect ohmmeter leads to the switch leads and pivot the switch float until
flush against the switch body.
H. Pivot the float switch away from the body until it is within 10 degrees of its
stop. The switch contacts should be open. If not, it indicates a defective
switch.
I. Reliable operation of the water level switch is obtained using high quality
magnetic reed contacts. However do not control power to any electrical
device directly through the water level switch Note
J. The water level switch can be installed at the midpoint of either side wall of
the tank. The desired location is based on routing of electrical leads, trunk
layout, etc. One switch lead will be grounded to the vehicle frame in the
trunk area and the other lead will be connected to the HyTronics module.
K. Dry the tank side wall around the 5/8” hole and apply pipe joint compound
to the threads of the switch body and mounting nut, and their mating
surfaces with the tank wall.
L. Install the switch into the tank so the float pivots upward, aligning its
pivoting axis parallel to the tank bottom and tighten the switch mounting
nut.

74
M. Ohmmeter leads are to be attached to the switch leads verifying that the
switch contacts are closed. Plug the tank outlet fitting and fill water tank until
the switch contacts open. Fill additional 2” inches of water verifying that the
switch contacts are still open. Now unplug the tank outlet and check that
switch contacts close when water drops to around 1/3 the full point. Check
the switch installation and pivots if this behavior is not observed. Confirm
that the float is at least ¼” away from any part of the tank.
N. Install the cap after draining the tank. Ensure the tank is secured by
constructing a wooed frame 3” to 4” high and drilling a hole in the frame
large enough to clear the tank outlet while the tank is being installed or
removed. Fasten the frame to the trunk floor at the desired location.
O. After locating a suitable place on the vehicle chassis close to the water tank,
drill a 3/32” grounding ring terminal attachment hole for the tank switch.
Clean area near the hole (use sandpaper to remove nearby paint or any other
insulating material). Strip ½” of insulation from the end of one switch wire
and crimp a large ring terminal onto the wire.
P. Find the length of tubing needed to reach from the pump or water tank to
the engine compartment. For pump located within the trunk, go to next step,
else go to step R
Q. Mount the pump at the desired location within the trunk and cut high-low
temp tubing to the required length and slide onto the tank fitting. The tubing
is to be secured with two small steel hose clamps. Slide the tank into the
wood frame and two small steel hose clamps onto the tank tube; slide the
tube onto the pump inlet fitting. Slide the hose clamps over the fitting. The
braid tubing is slid onto the pump outlet fitting and secured with two small
steel hose clamps over the fitting. Go to step S.

75
 R. A high-low temp tubing of required length is cut and slid onto the tank
fitting. The tubing is to be secured with two small steel hose clamps and then
slide the tank into the wood frame.
S. The tank ring terminal is to be attached to the 3/32” hole in the chassis with
a sheet metal screw. A heavy layer of petroleum jelly or grease is to be
applied over the terminal and screw.
T. Crimp a butt connector onto the wire after stripping ½” of insulation from
the end of the remaining switch wire. Cut a wire long enough to extend at
least 3’ into the engine compartment. For the pump in the trunk, repeat this
procedure to splice an equal length of hookup wire to each pump power
lead.
U. The tank and pump wires and tubing are routed through the vehicle
structure. Install a ¾” ID grommet wherever an access hole must be drilled.
For securing the wire and tubing bundle, use tie-wraps about every 6”, but
take care not to over-tighten as this may crush the tubing.
V. The installation of the pump can be done in two places. Either the trunk or
the engine compartment. If done in the trunk, the tube connecting the check
valve will be pressurized and silicon braid reinforced tubing must be used,
else use high-low temp silicone tubing. Two small steel hose damps are slid
onto the high-low temp silicone tubing. Also install tubing onto the pump
inlet fitting.

Hytronics module
A. Physical layout of the HyTronics Module components is not important as
both the electrode circuit and coil circuit operate at relatively low
frequencies.

76
B. Use the PC board kit or the Universal component board to mount the
components. The recommended Enclosure provides protection for the
HyTronics circuits and is attractive and easy to mount.
C. Use the side-board mounting feature of the recommended Enclosure for the
electrode, coil, and indicator circuits.
D. The following materials are to be used for the module assembly.
• Two 12-Position Male Interlocking Connectors (Radio Shack Part #: 274-
232).
• Two 12-Postion Female Interlocking Connectors (Radio Shack Part #: 274-
242).
• One Universal Component Board (Radio Shack Part #: 276-168).
• One PC Board Kit (Radio Shack Part #: 267-1576).
• One Enclosure 8” x 6” x 3” (Radio Shack Part #: 270-1809).

E. Build the electrode circuit, coil circuit and indicator circuit using components
as detailed previously.
F. A hike should be drilled in the enclosure to install a 3/8” ID grommet. Eight 1-
foot lengths of hookup wire should be cut and insulated to ½ inch at one end
of each wire. One of the wires should be routed through the grommet and
soldered to the HyTronics ground bus and labeled. Similarly, the seven
remaining LED and bulb socket wires are to be soldered and labeled.
G. Eight 1-foot lengths of hookup wire should be cut and insulated to ½ inch at
one end of each wire. Connect the wires to the 9-position female interlocking
connector such that each position corresponds to the wire label and each
position of the male 9-position connector. The labels can be removed after
all the wires are connected. Also secure the wires with a tie-wrap placed
about every 3” along the length of the bundle.

77
H. Another hole should be drilled in the enclosure to install a ½” ID grommet. In
this case, nineteen 1-foot lengths of hookup wire should be cut and insulated
to ½ inch at one end of each wire. Following solders need to be made
• Two wires to the appropriate terminals of the general electrode
• Two wires to the generator coil
• One wire to the appropriate terminal of the pump circuit
• One wire to the appropriate terminal for the Generator water level
switch
• Five wires before the fuse connection
• Five wires to the negative bus
• One wire to the throttle 10k resistor
• Two wires to tank level switch
I. Drill a hole in the HyTronics module enclosure to route wires to the 9-
position indicators panel connector and another to route wires to two 12-
position connectors for al other system components. An appropriately sized
grommet in each hole should be installed.
J. Nineteen 1-foot lengths of hookup wire should be cut and insulated to ½ inch
at one end of each wire. Connect any nine wires to the 12-position male
interlocking connector and the remaining 9 to the 12-position female
interlocking connector. Also secure the wires with a tie-wrap placed about
every 3” along the length of the bundle.
K. The HyTronics module should be attached to under the dash panel and as far
forward as practical. Finally connect the 9-position interlocking connectors of
the module and dash indicators.

78
Fuel injector/ Carburetor Adapter
A. Since hundreds of various fuel flow systems exist, it is recommended that a
company experienced in gasoline conversion systems is to be contacted for
an appropriate adapter for the engine installation.
B. They would, of course, need to be explained about the water hybrid system
design and how they would need to switch between the parent and the
subordinate fuel injection systems.
C. Describe your vehicles’ engine and the Water-hybrid system, and ask for the
company’s recommendations.
D. In particular, inquire about the possibility of installing a Beam -Garretson
Adapter

Throttle assembly

A. It is important not to opt for cheap pots as the HyTronics throttle uses a high
quality precision potentiometer designed for reliability and durability (over 5
million complete revolutions).
B. The following materials need to be used
• One Precision Pot, Series 578, 100K (Clarostat Part #: 578 X 1 G 32 P
104 S W).
• One 1-foot length CPVC Rod, ¾” diameter (US Plastic Part #: 43182).
C. The mounting bracket is designed so as to allow pot centering (housing
rotation) and precise adjustment of throttle sensitivity (bracket rotation)
whereas the throttle linkage sleeve allows precise pot rotation limit
adjustments (idle to full throttle) when combined with bracket rotation.
D. The best location in the engine compartment for installing the sleeve and
arm assembly and pot mounting bracket is to be established. Once done, a

79
 pot mounting bracket from 1/8” CPVC sheet is to be constructed. Then
modify the bracket size and attachment points to suit your automobile. Do
not cut the 3/32” slot until instructed to do so.

E. A 1-1/2” length o ¾” diameter CPVC rod needs to be cut. At a suitable spot,

measure the diameter of the existing throttle linkage; then drill a hole with
the measured diameter lengthwise through the rod. After that, cut the rod in
half lengthwise. Then a flat surface at least ¼” wide onto one rod half should
be sanded.
F. A ½” x 1-1/4” sleeve arm should be cut from 1/8” CPVC sheet. Then drill a
7/64” hole in one end of the arm about ¼” from the end. Bevel each end of
the hole about 1/16” deep using the drill. The mating surfaces of the arm and
sleeve should be applied firstly with a coat of primer, and then cement. Then
join the parts. Dry for 2 hours, then dress cut edges of all throttle parts with
sandpaper.

80
 Fig 41
G. Place the shaft of the 100K pot at the midpoint of its range of rotation and
mark an alignment line between the pot shaft and bushing. Then drill a hole
in the shaft at a point in line with the shaft alignment mark, and 3/16” in
from the shaft end using a #41 drill bit
H. A 6” length of 3/32” stainless steel welding rod should be cut. For the time
being, the pot should be installed into the 3/8” hole in the mounting bracket,
and then the welding rod is to be slid into the shaft hole. Now place the shaft
and busing marks and rotate the pot body so that the rod points directly
upward.

81
I. Place a mark at the point where the anti-rotation pin contacts the bracket.
The pot and rod from the bracket should be removed. A curved 3/32” wide
slot extending ¼” from each side of the marked point should be cut. After
that install the pots onto the bracket verifying that the anti-rotation pin fits
into the slot without binding in the slot as the pot body is rotated and dress
the slot edges with sandpaper.
J. The pot is to be attached to the bracket with the furnished nut and lock
washer. After installing the rod into the shaft hole, rotate the pot body to
align the rod parallel with the front edge of the bracket and steadfastly
tighten the mounting nut. Square off both ends of the rod and deburr with
sandpaper. Cleaning up the pot shaft using MEK or acetone and a soft clean
cloth also flushing the hole in shaft with MEK or acetone.
K. Coat the shaft hole with a thin layer of some epoxy like J-B weld. Also apply
the epoxy to one end of the rod and insert it into the shaft hole, allowing it to
extend about 1/8” beyond the end of the hole. Form a small fillet of epoxy
around the junction of the rod and shaft at both sides of the shaft. The epoxy
needs to be cured for at least for a day.
L. Use a small hose clamp at each end, attach the sleeve and arm assembly to
the throttle linkage. Locate the pot directly below the arm with the rod
protruding through the hole in the arm.
M. Now position the bracket fore or aft and sideways till the rod is square with
the sleeve arm and parallel with the front edge of the bracket with the
throttle linkage is approximately at it midpoint of travel. The bracket is to be
positioned up or down until the rod rotates through an angle of
approximately 60 degrees each side of center as the throttle linkage moves
through its full range.

82
N. Attach the bracket to the engine structure using two ¼” bolts, washers, and
locknuts positioning the bolt in the slot at around the slot midpoint to allow
free movement of the pot for precise adjustment. Loosen and check that the
bolt doesn’t bind and the pot body rotates freely. Dress the slot edges with
sandpaper.

Fig 42

O. The pot rod should not bind in the arm hole as the throttle linkage is moved
through its full range of travel. This can be avoided by rotating the pot
slightly up or down and/or slide the sleeve assembly slightly. Firmly tighten
the bracket bolts and sleeve hose clamps.

83
 Preliminary assembly testing

Follow the steps to perform a preliminary assembly testing

1. On each of the four electrodes and coil pins of the generator, install a male
crimp-on snap connector. Now install the Generator in the engine compartment
using ¼” bolts, washers, and locknuts. The Generator should be in level with the
vehicle frame. If the water pump is installed in the truck, go to further step else
connect the water pump outlet to the 3/8” fitting on the side of the Generator
housing with silicone braid tubing. The tubing should sag a little bit
2. Slide two small hose clamps onto the water tubing and install onto the 3/8” barb
fitting ton the side of the Generator housing, if the water pump has an internal
check valve. Again here, allow a sag in the tubing and tighten the clamps firmly.
Install the check valve in such a ways that the flow direction arrow on the valve
points towards the generator.
3. With the help of a small hose clamp, attach two 3” braid tubing to end of a check
valve. Attach a valve to the carb adapter on the engine using two small hose
clamps. The valve arrow should point towards the adapter. Tighten the clamps
firmly.
4. Attach the flame arrestor to the check valve hose using two hose clamps. To
connect the barb fitting to the flame arrestor, cut a length of braid tubing. Slide
four small hose clamps onto the tubing and connect the tubing between the
Generator and flame arrestor. The tubing should sag a little bit.

Do not solder wires directly to the generator electrode and coil pins.

84
Heat can damage the epoxy bond and can also cause gas and/or water leakage.

5. Attach the pressure gauge tubing to the 1/8” fitting on top of the Generator
using two small hose clamps. Let the tubing sag a little bit and tighten the
clamps.
6. Cut four 5-foot lengths of hookup wire and strip ½” of insulation from one end of
each wire. Twist the stranded ends of two wires together and trim the ends to a
length of 3/8”.Crimp a ring terminal to the spliced wires and attach the terminal
to the HyTronics power switch. Repeat the procedure for the other two wires.
The switch needs to be mounted on a convenient location on the dash. Route
one pair of switch wires to the vehicle positive (+) power bus.
7. Cut the wires to length and strip ½” of insulation from the wire ends. Twist the
wires together, trim to 3/8”, and crimp a ring terminal to the wire ends. Do not
attach the terminal, or other connector, to the bus.
8. Cut two 5-foot lengths of hookup wire and splice together with a ring terminal as
was done in previous step. To attach the ring terminal to the vehicle chassis, find
a convenient spot in the engine compartment. Drill a 3/32” hole there and attach
the terminal
9. Cut two 5-foot lengths of hookup wire and splice together with a ring terminal as
was done in previous step. Locate a convenient spot in the engine compartment
to attach the ring terminal to the vehicle chassis. Drill a 3/32” hole at that
location and attach the terminal.
10. The two wires should be routed through the grommet installed in the engine
compartment. Now cut the wires to reach the two 12-position connectors of the
HyTronics module allowing some droop in the wire. Before connecting each wire
to a negative (-) bus position of either of the 12-position interlocking connectors,
trim ¼” of insulation from the end of each wire.

85
11. Route the remaining pair of switch wires to the connectors and cut the wires to
length, allowing some slack in the wires. Connect the wires to the connectors at
two of the battery positive (+) power bus positions in the same manner as was
done in previous step.
12. Cut four wires of appropriate length to connect the Generator coil and electrode
pins to the connectors. Before installing a female crimp-on snap connector to
each wire, strip ¼” of insulation from each wire. Attach the connectors to the
Generator terminals. Route the wires to the HyTronics connectors and cut the
wire ends to equal length. Strip ¼” of insulation from each wire end and connect
each wire to the appropriate position of the HyTronics connectors.
13. Connect the tank water level and Generator water level switch wires to the
appropriate positions of the HyTronics connectors. Splice hookup wires to the
switch wires to reach the HyTronics connectors by using butt connectors.
14. To connect the throttle pot to the HyTronics connectors, cut two hookup wires.
From one end of each wire, strip ¼” of insulation and solder each wire to the pot
terminals. Slide a 1” length of heat shrink tubing onto each wire and over the
soldered terminals and shrink the tubing.
15. Now route the pot leads to the HyTronics connectors. Make their lengths equal
by cutting them. Strip ¼” of insulation from the end of each wire. Connect one
pot lead to a battery positive (+) power bus connector position. Connect the
other lead to the connector position leading to the 10K resistor lead. Pot shaft
should be rotated to its midpoint position.
16. The HyTronics power switch should be in OFF position. Verify it using an
ohmmeter.
17. To the battery positive (+) power bus, connect the switch ring terminal.
18. Before turning the power ON, cross check the following things

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• Confirm all the connections of the entire system. Any incorrect connection will
lead to system or component failure or damage.
• Connect the two 12-position interlocking connectors of the HyTronics module to
the matching system connectors.
• Remove the HyTronics module enclosure cover.
• Do not add water to the tank and connect the water pump leads until instructed.
• Since this is just a preliminary test to check the functioning, do not start the
engine.
19. On applying power the system should respond in the following way.
• On the indicator panel, “PWR ON”, “PUMP ON”, and GEN WATER LOW” LEDs
should be lit and the “TANK WATER LOW” LED should be blinking.
• Smoke and /or electrical sparking does not occur.
• Electrical overheating of any system component does not occur.
• Check that the gauge lights are lit on the indicator panel.
In case any of these results are contradictory, shut OFF the power supply and
trouble shoot the problem else proceed.
20. The vehicle gas pedal should be in full idle position. Record the voltage level by
connecting a digital voltmeter to pin 6 of amplifier LM741. Voltage should be
present. In case there is no voltage troubleshoot the problem and replace the
defective part.
21. Now slowly move the gas pedal from idle to full power, the voltage level at pin 6
of amplifier LM741 should increase slightly. Expect an increase of approximately
1 VDC to 4 VDC. If there is no increase in voltage, a component is defective and
needs to be replaced.
22. Set the “Throttle Adjust” pot to its midpoint of rotation
23. Connect an oscilloscope lead to pin 3 of the NE555 controller. Verify that a
square wave pulse exists and that the pulse width ratio increases as the gas

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 pedal is moved from full idle to full power. If not troubleshoot and repeat the
test.
24. Rotate the 2K “pulse width adjust” trim pot from stop to stop. The pulse width
should change as the pot is rotated. If the pulse width is not changing trouble
shoot the problem and repeat the test after replacing the defective component.
25. Set the 2K trim pot to its midpoint of rotations.

A highly stable square wave pulse is created by the NE555 controller. As we

gradually move the gas pedal toward full power, the input voltage from the LM741
amplifier to the controller increases. This increases the pulse width ratio of the controller
square wave output at pin 3.

26. Connect the oscilloscope lead to pin 3 of the NE555 controller. The square wave
frequency should change as the oscillator 2K pot is rotated. If not change the
defective and repeat the test.

The range of frequency of the square wave pulse is between15KHz to 20 KHz. The
trigger oscillator circuit provides variable frequency input pulses to the NE55 controller in
response to adjustment to the 2K trim pot and dip switch settings.

27. Set the oscillator pot to its midpoint of rotation.

28. Connect an oscilloscope lead to pin 8 of the NE555 controller. Rotate the “Pulse
Width Adjust” pot from stop to stop. The pulse width should change as the pot is
rotated. If the pulse width is not changing trouble shoot the problem and repeat
the test after replacing the defective component.
29. Set the “Pulse Width Adjust” pot to its midpoint of rotation.

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 30. Connect a digital voltmeter lead to pin 8 of the NE555 controller. On rotating the
10K “Strength Adjust” pot from start to end. The voltage level should change as
the pot is rotated. If the voltage level is not changing trouble shoot the problem
and repeat the test after replacing the defective component.
31. Now set the “Strength Adjust” pot to its midpoint of rotation.

The frequency of the coil circuit is controlled by the CD4059A Divide by N Counter.
Since the input to this counter is from the electrode circuit, when the frequency of the
electrode circuit is changed, the frequency of the coil circuit changes accordingly. Pulse
width of the coil circuit is adjusted with the 10K “Pulse Width Adjust” pot.

32. Set the dip switches according to oscillator DC4069 manufacturer instructions to
obtain a frequency between 15 KHz and 20 KHz. This can be verified by
connecting an oscilloscope or frequency meter lead to pin 6 of oscillator CD4069
and verify the same. Adjust the 2 K “Frequency Adjust” pot to obtain a frequency
within that range. If the correct frequency cannot be obtained, replace the
defective component in the oscillator circuit and return to this step.
33. The frequency of the pulse appearing at the collector of component 2N3055
should be between 15Hz to 20Hz.This can be verified with an oscilloscope or
frequency meter, If it is not within this range set the “Divide by N” counter for an
N factor of 1,000 according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Now verify that
the frequency at the collector of component 2N3055 is between 15 Hz to 20 Hz.
If the frequency is not within that range trouble shoot the problem and Go to the
previous step after replacing the defective component.
34. Shut OFF the power.

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Cylinder head temperature
A. Since Hydrogen burns at a slightly higher temperature than gasoline, the CHT is
higher, so the approach to be taken to determine the CHT is first drive only on
gasoline.
B. Drive for about a quarter of an hour or double the time in cold weather on open
highway to assure that the engine is up to normal operating temperature.
C. Note and record CHT under each of the following driving conditions:
• Parked at full idle, transmission in “neutral,” for three minutes.
• 25 MPH in residential areas for at least two minutes.
• 60 MPH (or full power) on steep grade for at least 30 seconds.
D. The water - hybrid system uses a very high quality fast response CHT gauge,
sensing CHT directly from the base of a sparkplug.

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 Final Assembly and Testing

1. Check if the water pump is installed in the trunk then connect its positive (+)
power lead to a battery positive (+) power bus connector position. If the pump is
installed in the engine compartment, splice a hookup wire to its positive (+)
power lea with a butt connector and connect it to a battery positive (+) power
bus connector position. Similarly, connect the pump negative (-) power lead to
the connector position leading to the collector lead of the E3055T switch.
2. Fill the water tank with water. There should be no leakage from the tank or any
of its tubing connections.
3. The vehicle on which this system is to be installed should be on a level surface
with parking brake engaged and transmission should be in neutral. If the water
pump is installed in the trunk, lift the trunk lid and also lift the hood or engine
compartment cover.
4. Follow the manufacturers’ instructions to set the engine adapter for hydrogen
operation.

Monitor the pressure gauge. The generator gas pressure should not exceed 70 PSI.
If such case arises, shut OFF the power immediately. Normally, pressure exceeding 85
PSI is vented by the pressure relief valve. But it is better to monitor the same yourself.

5. Set the “Throttle Adjust”, “Pulse Width Adjust”, “Frequency Adjust”, and
“Strength Adjust” pots to their midpoint of rotation. Now check whether there
are any of the following problems, immediately shut power OFF if they exist.
 Generator pressure exceeds 70 PSI.

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  Electrical overheating of any system component.
 Smoke and/or electrical sparking.
 Gas and/or water leakage from the Generator.
 Water leakage from the tubes, fittings, and other components.
Turn power ON. Hang on till the Generator pressure reaches 25 PSI. If Generator
pressure does not reach 25 PSI, go to step 7. Start the engine, when pressure
reaches 25 PSI. Run the engine only at idle speed. Refer the following table and
check all these conditions.

If engine starts Then go to step 26

If engine does not start Then go to step 7
If any other problem exists Then go to step 6

6. Put power OFF. Troubleshoot and replace the defective component. Go back to
step 5.
7. Put power OFF. Open the Generator drain cock and empty the generator. Now
close the drain cock. If no water drained, put power OFF. Troubleshoot and
replace the defective component. Go back to step 5. If at least some water
drained, go to step 14.
8. Turn power ON. The water pump should run. If the pump runs, go to step 9. If
the pump does not run, turn power OFF and go to step 25.

The gas pressure should be ideally in the range of about 12 PSI to 28 PSI and at full
power it should be between 28 PSI to 62 PSI.

9. Water should reach the pump inlet. If water doest not reach the inlet, go to step
10 else go to step 13

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10. Pump outlet should be disconnected from the pump outlet. If still the water is
not reaching the inlet then go to step 12 else go to step 11.
11. Turn the power OFF. Check for restrictions on the tubing .If there is any
restriction repair and reconnect. If there is no restriction, the pump is defective
and must be repaired or replaced. Once the pump is replaced, reconnect the
pump and go back to step 5.
12. Water should be flowing from the pump outlet and turn power OFF. If not then
check the valve. It is either defective or has been installed backward. Replace the
check valve or reinstall it with the flow arrow pointing towards the Generator,
reconnect tubing, and go back to step 5. If still the water is not flowing, the
pump is defective and must be repaired or replaced. Go back to step 5 after
replacing the defective pump.
13. Disconnect the tubing from the pump outlet. Verify that water now flows from
the pump outlet and turn power OFF. If water was flowing, the check valve is
either defective or has been installed backwards. Replace the check valve or
reinstall it with the arrow pointing towards the Generator and go back to step 5.
If water was not flowing, the pump is defective and must be repaired or
replaced. After pump repair or replacement, reconnect the pump and go back to
step 5.
14. Turn the power ON. No water should be present in the tubing leading from the
Generator to the flame arrestor. Now turn OFF the power. If water was present,
go to step 15 else go to step 17.
15. Cut the Generator water level switch wire connected to the HyTronics positive
(+) power bus within about 6” of the Generator. Strip ¼” from each end of the
cut lead. Connect as ohmmeter lead to the wire exiting the Generator and the
other lead to vehicle ground (-). The ohmmeter should indicate that the switch
contacts are open. If the switch contacts are open, go to step 16 else the switch

93
 slosh shield has been incorrectly installed. Remove and reinstall the slosh shield.
Reconnect the switch wires with a butt connector and go back to step 5.
16. The switch wires needs to be reconnected with a butt connector. Locate and
replace the defective component in the pump control circuit and go back to step
5.
17. Verify that the flow arrow in the check valve is pointing toward the engine. If the
check valve is installed correctly, go to step 18 else remove it from the tubing
and reinstall it and go back to step 5.
18. The water container needs to be set on a level surface, mark the water level on
the side of the container. Now dispose the water. Close the Generator drain
cock.
19. We will now need to disconnect the gas outlet hose from the top of the
Generator. Turn power ON, wait for the water pump to stop running, and shut
power OFF. Drain cock should be opened now and the water should be drained
into the container until the Generator is empty. Close the drain cock. Check the
water level and dispose the water. If the water level was higher than the level
marked in step 18 then go to step 20. If it is same then go to step 26.
20. Reconnect the tubing and disconnect the tubing from the carburetor adapter.
Turn power ON, wait for the water pump to stop running, and shut power OFF.
Open the drain cock and drain water into the container until the Generator is
empty. Close the drain cock. Check the water level and dispose of water. If the
water level was higher than the level marked in step 18, go to step 21. If the
water level was about the same, go to step 22.
21. Either the adaptor or its associated parts is defective or requires adjustment.
Following the manufacturers’ instructions adjust the adapter. If still the same
results are found then repair the same. Reconnect the tubing and go back to step
5.

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22. Disconnect the tubing between the flame arrestor and check valve. Turn power
ON. Allow the water pump to stop running and shut the power OFF. Open the
drain cock and drain water into the container until the Generator is empty. Close
the drain cock. Check the water level and dispose of water. If the water level was
higher than the level marked in step 18, go to step 23. If it is same then go to
step 24.
23. The check valve seems to be defective. Replace valve and reconnect the tubing.
Go back to step 5.
24. The flame arrestor has been constructed incorrectly. Remove the flame and
remove its end fittings and dispose it. Construct a new flame arrestor as
instructed earlier. Allow the cement to air dry for 24 hours. Apply a thin coating
for pipe joint compound to the tapped threads in the ends of the flame arrestor
and fittings. Thread the fittings into the flame arrestor and tighten firmly. Install
the new flame arrestor into the tubing and go back to step 5.
25. Turn the power off. If there is a pump failure then check if the Pump is defective.
Disconnect from HyTronics module and cut the pump negative (-) bus wire and
check pump operation. If the pump is still not running or the current drawn is
excess i.e. more than 15 amps during start up, repair or replace it and reconnect
the pump wires using butt connectors. Check if the main fuse has blown. If yes,
then replace it and go back to step 5.If the pump operates normally, reconnect
the wire with a butt connector. Sometimes E30556T switch can fail due to pump
current overload. If the switch has failed, replace it with a switch of higher
current capacity and go back to step 5 else cut the Generator water level switch
wire connected to the HyTronics positive (+) power bus within about 6” of the
Generator. Strip ¼” from each end of the cut lead. Connect an ohmmeter lead to
the wire exiting the Generator and the other lead to vehicle ground (-).If the
ohmmeter indicates that the switch is open then either the pump is defective /

95
 pump circuit component is defective, or wiring errors exist. If the switch contacts
are open, the switch slosh shield has been incorrectly installed. Remove the
slosh shield and reinstall it. Check that the shield is accurately centered on the
switch float. Reconnect the switch wires with a butt connector. Locate and
troubleshoot the problem and go back to step 5.
26. No water should be present in the tubing from the Generator to the flame
arrestor. If it is present, turn power OFF and go back to step 15 else go to step
27.Each engine has unique requirements. To obtain optimal performance you
will have to make simple trial and error adjustment.

These guidelines will help you to tweak the system i.e. you will gain optimal
performance.
 Ensure that the CHT should never exceed 40 degrees more than the value recorded
in step 1 at all driving and idle conditions.
 Ensure that CHT never exceeds 400 degrees.
 At idle, Generator pressure should be 12 PSI to 28 PSI.
 At full power, Generator pressure should be 28 PSI to 62 PSI.

Ask a friend to lend you a hand while tweaking the system. It will be easier and
simpler if he drives while you do the tweaking.

27. Engine should be at idle position; the transmission should be neutral and also set
the parking brake. Hold on till the Generator pressure stabilizes and go to step
30.
28. Now drive your vehicle at 25 MPH in residential areas. If the “Frequency Adjust”
pot is rotated CW to increase Generator pressure, go to step 30.If the
“Frequency Adjust” pot is rotated CCW to increase Generator pressure, go to
step 37.

96
29. Drive your vehicle at full power on a steep grade. If the “Frequency Adjust” pot is
rotated CW to increase Generator pressure, go to step 30.If the “Frequency
Adjust” pot is rotated CCW to increase Generator pressure, go to step 37.
30. Rotate the “Frequency Adjust” trim pot fully counterclockwise (CCW).Now slowly
rotate clockwise (CW). Before completing 90 % of the rotation, if Generator
pressure starts to increase then go to step 31else go to step 37.
31. Keep rotating CW until pressure stops increasing. Rotate an additional 10
degrees. Let the pressure stabilize and record it .Now slowly start rotating CCW
until pressure starts to drop. Again slowly rotate CW until pressure increases to
the recorded value. Note that the “Frequency Adjust” pot has to be rotated CW
to increase pressure. If you are tuning your system while driving, go to step 43
else if you are tuning it while idle then go to step 32.
32. Rotate the “Pulse Width Adjust” trim pot full CCW. Slowly turn CW. Before
completing 90 % of the rotation, if the pressure starts increasing go to step 33. If
pressure does not increase, go to step 39.
33. Keep rotating slowly CW until pressure stops increasing. Rotate an additional 10
degrees. Let the pressure stabilize and now record pressure. Now slowly rotate
CCW until pressure starts to drop. Again rotate CW until pressure increases to
the recorded value. Note that the “Pulse Width Adjust” pot is rotated CW to
increase pressure.
34. If you are tuning your system while driving, go to step 36 else if you are tuning it
while idle then go to step 35.
35. Refer the construction of throttle assembly .If required; adjust engine idle speed
by loosening hose clamps and sliding the arm and sleeve assembly back or forth.
Now again tighten the hose clamps securely back. If pressure exceeds 28 PSI, go
to step 41 else go back to step 28.

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36. If pressure exceeds 62 PSI, go to step 42. If pressure is 62 PSI or less, go to step
44.
37. Now turn the “Frequency Adjust” pot fully CW. Slowly rotate CCW. Before
completing 90 % of the rotation, if the pressure starts increasing go to step, go to
step 38. If no increase, rotate the pot CW to its midpoint and go back to step 32.
38. Rotate slowly CCW until pressure stops increasing. Rotate an additional 10
degrees. Hold on till the pressure stabilizes and then record the pressure. Now
slowly rotate CW until pressure starts to drop. Again slowly rotate CCW until
pressure increases to the recorded value. Note that the “Frequency Adjust” pot
is rotated CCW to increase pressure. If you are tuning your system while driving,
go to step 43 else if you are tuning it while idle then go to step 32.
39. Rotate the “Pulse Width Adjust” pot fully CW. Slowly rotate CCW. Before
completing 90% of the total rotation, if the pressure increases, go to step 40.
Else rotate the pot CW to its midpoint and go back to step 34.
40. Again turn slowly CCW until pressure stops increasing. Rotate an additional 10
degrees. Let the pressure stabilize and record it. Now slowly rotate CW until
pressure starts to drop. Again slowly rotate CCW until pressure increases to the
recorded value. Record that the “Pulse Width Adjust” pot is rotated CCW to
increase pressure. Go back to step 34.
41. Mark an alignment mark on the “Frequency Adjust” and “Pulse Width Adjust”
pots by using a marking pen. Calculate the amount of excess pressure by
subtracting 28 PSI from it. For example, if pressure is 30 PSI, then the excess
pressure is calculated as 30 - 28 =2 PSI excess pressure. Adjust the pressure to
28 PSI by alternately rotating each pot in the correct direction very slowly. Your
aim should be to divide the excess pressure equally between the two pots. In the
above example the excess 2 PSI pressure should be divided into 1 PSI with each
pot. Go back to step 28.

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42. Mark an alignment mark on the “Frequency Adjust” and “Pulse Width Adjust”
pots using a marking pen. Calculate the amount of excess pressure by
subtracting 62 PSI from it. For example, if pressure is 72 PSI, then the excess
pressure is calculated as 72 - 62 =10 PSI excess pressure. Adjust pressure to 62
PSI by alternately rotating each pot in the correct direction very slowly. Your aim
should be to divide the excess pressure equally between the two pots. In the
above example the excess 10 PSI pressure should be divided into 5 PSI with each
pot. Go to step 44.
43. If the “Pulse Width Adjust” pot is turned CW to increase Generator pressure, go
back to step 32.If the “Pulse Width Adjust” pot is turned CCW to increase
Generator pressure, go back to step 39.
44. If you were tuning this system by driving at 25 MPH, go to step 45. If you were
tuning this system by driving at full power at 60 MPH on a steep grade, go to
step 6
45. Refer the construction of throttle assembly. Throttle linkage should be able to
move through its full range i.e. from idle to full power without binding of the rod
within the arm. Before proceeding, perform the procedure given in step 66. Then
drive your vehicle at full power or at 60 MPH on a steep grade. Pay attention to
the sound of engine pre-combustion (“ping”). If the engine pings, go to step 46.
If not, go to step 56.We will be able to achieve and optimal performance when
as much parahydrogen is created to the point that the ping is created and then
slightly richening until ping disappears. Sequentially you will need to fine tune
two different pots. CHT should be observed at all time .The CHT should not
exceed the CHT recorded in step 1 for driving 60 MPH (or full power) on a steep
grade by more than 40 degrees. Do not allow CHT to exceed 400 degrees.
46. Turn the “Pulse Width Adjust” pot fully CCW. If the engine pings, go to step 47
else go to step 53.

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47. Turn fully clockwise (CW). If the engine pings, go to step 48 else go to step 53.
48. Slowly turn CCW. If CHT decreases, continue rotating CCW until CHT tops
decreasing. Go to step 49. If CHT increases while rotating CCW rotate fully CCW.
Slowly rotate CW until CHT stops decreasing. Go to step 49.
49. Rotate the “Strength Adjust” pot fully CCW. If the engine pings, go to step
50.else go to step 54.

Steps 45 to 65 will help you to tune the coil circuit to create an ideal mixture of
parahydrogen and orthohydrogen. If the parahydrogen created is too lean then it
may result in excessively high cylinder head temperature .This is a common cause of
engine pre‐combustion (“ping”). If the parahydrogen created is too high then it will
result in low CHT decreasing efficiency, and possibly causing engine roughness.

50. Rotate fully CW. If the engine pings, rotate each pot to its midpoint and go to
step 51. If the engine does not ping, go to step 55.
51. Turn power OFF. The parahydrogen created by the coil circuit is not enough.
Replace the 10K resistor with a 10K pot connecting pin 3 of component NE555.
Adjust the pot and set it to 9K resistance. Go back to step 45. If you reach this
step again, adjust the pot for about 8K and go back to step 45. Each time you
reach this step, adjust the pot for about 1K less and go back to step 45.
Eventually if the pot is adjusted for 2K or less, some circuit component is
defective. Locate and replace the defective component. Adjust the pot for 10K.
Turn power ON and go back to step 45.
52. Rotate clockwise until ping starts, then counterclockwise till ping stops. Continue
this movement gradually by about 5 degrees. If CHT is more than 40 degrees
higher than the value recorded in step 1, continue slowly rotating

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 counterclockwise until CHT decreases to 40 degrees above the recorded value.
Go back to step 29.
53. Now rotate counterclockwise until ping starts, then clockwise until ping stops.
Continue this movement gradually about 5 more degrees. If CHT is more than 40
degrees higher than the value recorded in step 1, continue slowly rotating
clockwise until CHT decreases to 40 degrees above the recorded value. Go back
to step 29.
54. Repeat step 52
55. Repeat step 53
56. The “Pulse Width Adjust” pot should be rotated fully counterclockwise (CCW). If
the engine pings, go to step 62 else go to step 57.
57. Now rotate it fully clockwise (CW). If the engine pings, go to step 63 else go to
step 58.
58. Now again rotate slowly CCW. If CHT increases, continue rotating CCW until it
stops increasing and then go to step 59. If CHT starts decreasing while rotating
CCW then rotate it fully CCW. Now again rotate slowly CW until CHT stops
increasing. Go to step 59.
59. Repeat the same with the “Strength Adjust” pot. Rotate it fully CCW. If the
engine pings, go to step 64 else go to step 60.
60. “Strength Adjust” pot should be fully rotated CW. If the engine pings, go to step
65 else rotate each pot to its midpoint and go to step 61.
61. Put OFF the power. The problem is that the coil circuit is producing excessive
parahydrogen. Replace the 10K resistor with a 20K pot connecting pin 3 of
component NE555. Adjust the pot and set it to 11K resistance. Now go back to
step 45. If you reach this step again, you will need to adjust the pot to 12K
resistance and go back to step 45. Whenever you reach this step, adjust the pot
for about 1K more resistance and go back to step 45. If eventually the pot is

101
 adjusted to 18K resistance or more then one of the circuit component is
defective. Troubleshoot and replace the defective component. Adjust the pot
again to 10 K. Turn the power ON and go back to step 45
62. Repeat step 52. Go to step 66.
63. Repeat step 53. Go to step 66.
64. Repeat step 52. Go to step 66.
65. Repeat step 53. Go back to step 29.
66. Throttle can be adjusted precisely by following the below method.
a) Unfasten the arm from the throttle rod. The pot shaft should be rotated through
the total range. This is required for going from idle to full power. Record the total
distance traveled by the tip of the throttle rod when the pot is rotated using a
ruler.
b) Now turn the pot shaft to its midpoint of rotation and also position the throttle
linkage at its midpoint of travel. The arm should be slid onto the throttle rod
.Attach the arm and sleeve onto the throttle linkage with hose clamps.
c) The pot can be raised or lowered by rotating its mounting bracket about ¼” bolt
till the throttle linkage moves through its full range. If required, invert the arm
and sleeve assembly so that the position of the arm is above the linkage. This will
help u to obtain added distance between the pot and arm.
d) There should be no binding and the operation should be smooth. To ensure this,
when the linkage is at its midpoint of travel ,square the throttle rod with the
surface of the arm. If required, turn the pot body within the limits of the 3/32”
slot and rotate the sleeve until the throttle rod is square with the arm.
e) Now adjust the speed to the desired one. The throttle should be operated
through several cycles to check if it runs smoothly without binding.
f) Tighten the mounting bolts, hose clamps, and the pot retaining nut firmly. Keep
the throttle at idle position and trim the throttle rod in such a way that it

102
 protrudes about ¼” above the arm. The rod end should be squared with a file.
Also use sandpaper for deburring. Mix and apply a small quantity of epoxy to the
3/32” slot where there is the anti-rotation pin. This will secure the pot against
rotation.

67. The four LEDs must operate as follows when you are driving:
 When power is ON ,Green PWR ON LED lights
 When power is OFF, PWR ON LED should not glow.
 When the water pump is running, Green PUMP ON and yellow GEN WATER LOW
both should glow
 At all other times, these LEDs should be OFF.
 When tank water level is less than about 1/3 full, Red TANK WATER LOW should
blink
 When water level is above 1/3 full level, it should be OFF.
68. If all four LEDs operate properly, go to step 68 else find the defective component
or wiring error. Repair or replace as necessary. Once again firmly tighten hose
clamps on all fittings

Congratulations your first Water Hybrid System vehicle is ready and is working perfectly!

103
Fig 43

104
 Maintenance of Water Hybrid System

These tips will be useful to you for maintaining Water Hybrid System and getting
optimum performance from it. This system does not require much of maintenance. But
since the tap water contains minerals .They tend to get accumulated within the
Generator and on other parts. Gradually, the electrode gap will fill with deposits. The
efficiency will drop if there is not enough hydrogen and oxygen available. This can be
prevented by periodically flushing and cleaning the Generator.

Flushing
It is not only quick and easy but equally effective too. This is recommended to be done
at least once in a fortnight. There’s no need to start the engine. All you have to do is
open the drain cock and turn power ON for a minute. Now close the drain cock. Refill
the generator and turn power OFF.

Cleaning
To remove the thin layer of minerals that develops on the Generator part, cleaning
should be done periodically. Cleaning frequency depends on the mineral content of the
water and the amount of driving .It is recommended at least once in two months. For
cleaning use a mildly acidic mineral deposit cleaner such as “CLR”.
Steps for cleaning are given below.
1. Make sure power is OFF.
2. Drain the Generator.
3. Disconnect the outlet tube at the flame arrestor and close the drain cock.

105
 4. Wearing protective gloves mix cleaner about 50/50 with water and pour through
the tube until the Generator is full.
5. Allow the cleaner to work for a few minutes
6. Drain into large container.
7. Repeat this procedure one more time.
8. Keep repeating till the drained cleaner is fairly clear.
9. Close the drain cock and fill the Generator with fresh water and drain.
10. Repeat two more times.
11. Turn power ON and flush for two minutes.
12. Close the drain cock, refill the generator and close the drain cock.
13. Turn power OFF and reconnect the tube to the flame arrestor.

Tips and Tricks

1. When outside temperatures are below freezing mix isopropyl alcohol with the
water to prevent freezing. Alcohol changes the dielectric properties of water. For
peak performance, adjust the operating frequency by the “Frequency Adjust”
trim pot.
2. Build and install a spare Generator as a backup. Build it exactly same as the
primary Generator. So in case the primary generator fails due to any reason you
will have to do just switch a few wires and tubes from the primary one to the
secondary Generator.

3. The byproduct of this system is water vapor. So this is system is vulnerable to

rust .Stainless steel valves are relatively inexpensive and they are easily
available. The exhaust system is also vulnerable to rust. Stainless steel can also
be used there. Or, if the system is new, there is a new option available. You can
do a ceramic coating processes will prevent rusting.

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4. Use high quality epoxy like J-B WELD for sealing the wire ends of all connectors It
also add physical strength to the connector. Another advantage of using it is it
helps seal against corroding. Use very small amount of epoxy. Don’t let the
epoxy flows onto the connector contacts. Keep a check on the CHT and pressure
gauges.

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 References

• Stephen Chambers, “Apparatus for Producing Orthohydrogen and/or

Parahydrogen” US Patent
• 6,126,794 and “Prototype Vapor Fuel System”.
• Stanley Meyer, “Method for Production of a Fuel Gas” US Patent 4,936,961.
• Carl Cella, “A Water-Fueled Car” Nexus Magazine, Oct-Nov 1996.
• Peter Lindemann, “Where in the World is All the Free Energy”.
• William S. Power, “The Hydrostar”
• George Wiseman, “The Gas-Saver and HyCo Series”.
• Michael Holler, “The Dromedary Newsletter” and “SuperCarb Techniques”

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 Appendix

Sources for obtaining material for this system

Throttle Assembly
State Electronics
36 Route 10
East Hanover, NJ 07936
Phone: 1-973-887-2550 Toll Free: 1-800-631-8083
Fax: 1-973-887-1940
United States Plastic Corp

HyTronics Module
Radio Shack (Nationwide stores)

InDash Indicator Panel Assembly

Bus Boys, Inc
183 Lake Blvd East
Redding, CA 96003
Phone: 1-530-244-1616 Fax (7/24):1-530-224-0933

Auto Meter Products Inc

413 W Elm St.
Sycamore, IL 60178
Phone: 1-815-895-8141 Fax: 1-815-895-6786

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United States Plastic Corp
Radio Shack
(Nationwide stores)

Toroid Coil
National Magnetics Group
1210 Win Dr.
Bethlehem, PA 18017-7061
Phone: 1-610-867-7600
FAX: 1-610-867-0200

MWS Wire Industries

31200 Cedar Valley Dr.
Westlake Village, CA 91362
Phone: 1-818-991-8553
Fax: 1-818-706-0911

Acton Technologies
100 Thompson St.
PO Box 726
Pittston, PA 18640
Phone: 1-570-654-0612
Fax: 1-570-654-2810

Radio Shack
(Nationwide stores)

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Unthreaded End Cap
Cutting Tool Supply (CTS)
340 W Gerri La
Addison, IL 60101
Phone: 1-630-543-7171 Fax: 1-630-543-6906

The Specialty Mfg Co (SMC)

5858 Centerville Rd.
St. Paul, MN 55127
Phone: 1-651-653-0599 Fax: 1-652-653-0989

Generant
1865 Route 23S, PO Box 768
Butler, NJ 07405
Phone: 1-973-88-6500 Fax: 1-973-838-4888

Stra-Val
21 Columbus Ave.
Garfield, NJ 07026
Phone: 1-973-340-9258
Toll-Free: 1-888-380-966 Fax: 1-973-340-9933

Fastener Hut Inc.

3781 Glengarry Way NE
Roswell, GA 30075-2615
Phone: 1-770-480-4617 Fax: 1-+770-998-2721

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Norgren, c/o Kip Fluid Controls, Inc
72 Spring Ln
Farmington, CT 06032
Phone, Toll-Free: 1-800-722-5547 Fax: 1-860-677-4999

Flame Arrestor
Stainless Steel Wool can be either obtained from some large supermarkets
Or
JWP
2575 W Lemoyne
Melrose Park, IL 60160
Toll Free: 1-800-732-9336
FAX: 1-708-3458-0810

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