Personalisation, customisation, bespoke

- Making "made-to-measure" a success

 
Emmanuelle Moeglin – Founder of Experimental Perfume Club
In Cos March 2019
About us: Experimental Perfume Club

Bespoke Fragrance House in London

Fragrance design for individuals and brands & olfactory installations

3,000+ visitors to the lab per year including brands such as Dior,
Mulberry, Hermes, Nike, Facebook…

Collaborations with Ministry of Sound, Glennfidich, Soho House…

LAYERS by Experimental Perfume Club

First-to-market fragrance collections offering a blending experience and

bespoke fragrance creation as in retail

Fully customisable formulas to create your own fragrance

Endless possibilities with every new trio

 “Customisation”
“Customisation”
perso·nalisation
perso·nalisation//// be·spoke
be·spoke////made·to·measure
made·to·measure
To
Tomake
makeororalter
altertotoindividual
individualororpersonal
personalspecifications
specifications
 “We  believe  customiza0on  is  the  new  form  of  luxury,  which  is  really  
a  return  to  the  old  form  of  luxury  in  the  idea  of  having  something  
made  just  for  you“  
 
-­‐  Dave  Gross  Founder  of  MatchCo  
What / Before & now of personalisation

Customisation is not a new concept

•  Add your own food toppings
•  Your name on a coffee cup
•  Choose your own colour or design for your shoe
•  Create your own beauty product

Culminating today: Bespoke was the number one beauty

trend of 2018. It is becoming a must in marketing products.
•  British Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Refinery29
•  Respondents to the BoF-McKinsey Global Fashion survey identified
personalisation as the number one trend in 2018

Here to stay and evolve alongside technology

•  An ever growing trend supported by the increasing accessibility of
technology and devices.
•  Shift towards expectation for personalised products and services.
Skin  Inc.  asks  customers  a  host  of  ques0ons,  
including  lifestyle  choices,  medica0ons  and  even  
how  old  their  parents  look.    
Why / Driven by
Increasing interest for more transparency, DIY / artisan and learning
•  Revival of hand-made and craft goods – makers movement
•  Increasing interest for independent, artisanal and niche
Ø  Greater access to brands and to educate self

Consumers become co-creators

•  Increasing intimacy when taking an active role in creating something
Ø  Generates feelings of control, ownership and immediacy

Greater awareness & acceptation

•  Social differences, gender, sexual orientation, ethnic diversity
•  Lifestyle (vegan etc…)
Ø  Creates more segmented and targeted market niche

Minorities are sizable niche

•  3.5m British vegan in 2018, 5% of US population identify as vegetarian, 3% as
vegan*
Ø  With and estimated global population of 7.6bn there is no such things as
minorities anymore and all niche are sizable markets NikeID Customisable trainer
*Gallup 2018
How / Technology is changing consumers’ expectations

With the rise of digital help and algorithm comes greater

expectations

Our lifestyle is constantly scanned and analysed for our

benefit
•  Google, Facebook + Instagram – targeted ads and news feed
•  Netflix, Spotify - discover weekly, made for you playlists
•  Compilation of consumer’s profile by all brands across all industries

Online is the perfect group focus platform

•  Ability to build your own brand through social media (includes “me
branding” for influencers)
•  Social media & chatbot allows brands to directly engage with their
customers and tweak their products based on direct feedback
•  People looking for honest connections and conversations

Google Home – personal assistant

The rise of devices personal assistants

•  Alexa, Google Home, Siri
“There  is  an  increasing  expecta0on  from  consumers  that  they  will  be  
able  to  buy  a  product  that  suits  their  taste...    
If  I  can  get  a  Subway  sandwich  made  to  exactly  my  specifica0on,  why  
can’t  I  get  a  get  a  shampoo  that  works  with  my  curly  hair  and  oily  
scalp,  and  has  a  scent  that  I  want?”  
 
-­‐  Simon  Driscoll,  founder  of  UXB  Skincare  
36%
Of UK consumers express interest in purchasing
customised products or services
*Deloitte, 2018 70%
of US consumers expect personalisation from online
businesses
1 in 5 *Linkdex,  2018  
 
who have expressed interest in personalised
products and services are willing to pay premium
*Deloitte, 2018 58%
Of UK and US consumers more likely to make a

52% purchase when a retailer recommends options for

them based on their past purchases or preferences
* Accenture Interactive, 2018
of consumers (global) say they’re likely to switch
brands if a company doesn’t make an effort to
personalise communications to them
*Salesforce 2017
40% 10%
Spanish, 35% of Italian, 32% of French beauty
of French beauty buyers have made a
buyers are interested in beauty and personal
customised beauty product in-store or online  
care products/brands that can be personalised
 

58% 14%
Of French beauty buyers have taken a
French, 60% of Italian, 53% of Spanish, 39%
personality quiz to identify their beauty needs
German haven't done but would like to have
their skin/hair analysed to identify their beauty
needs

Mintel, 2018, base: internet users aged 16+, users or buyers of beauty or grooming products
The different methods of customisation

Real = formula
•  Pros: Offer the most in-depth level of customisation
•  Cons: Trained, qualified or even expert staff, educative
communication

Assisted = service such as algorithms and devices

•  Pros: Automation & scalability
•  Cons: Not really a customised products

Aesthetical = packaging such as labels, engraving, colours

•  Pros: Giftable, unique object
•  Cons: Illusion of personalisation

Personalised formula + advanced algorithms or devices

+ personalised pack

= ultimate customisation
Customisation in : Fragrance
SILLAGES
Algorithm Customisation
Answer four questions.
Let the algorithm choose a fragrance from
the collection that suits you.
Or Picked by perfumers.
LAYERS EX NIHILO
Blend Your Own Fragrance One-to-one with a blender
Mix together two or three of your favourite ‘Osmologue’ machine
Layers fragrances from the collection to Start with eight fragrances
create your unique scent.
Add your twist
Endless combinations
Customisation in : Beauty

BARE MINERALS TRINNY LONDON CODE8

Scan Your Skin Algorithm Picks Create Your Own Lipstick

Match2Me algorithm. Colour iD lab instore

With the Made-2-Fit app.
Foundatios prepared in the lab to suit your Answer questions to be matched with Personalise a colour from 10 base
complexion. makeup for your skin, hair, and eyes colours or by choosing a pre-designed
Bottle engraved with your name Build your own stack of products colour from the colour coding guide
Customisation in : Skin Care

FACE GYM FOFO LUNA CLINIQUE ID

Expert Mixologists Face Mapping Custom Moisturiser

Blend your own serum at ‘the make it bar’ Skin analyzing massager device and app. Pick your base
with an expert mixologist. Reads hydration levels to deliver a fully Insert your cartridge specific to your
Choose from a custom blend of oils. personalized cleansing program. concern
Personalised label 15 combinations
Customisation in : Fashion
STITCH FIX
Personalised Clothing
A virtual personal stylist.
Complete a style profile.
Algorithm delivers personalised packages
of pre-assorted clothing and accessories to
you on a monthly basis.
VICTORIA BECKHAM ADIDAS
Augmented Reality Chat Knit For You
Bots
Pop-up store.
Victoria Beckham partners with Facebook Guided design.
and launches a chat bot for Facebook Body scan technology for perfect fit.
Messenger, allowing users of her fashion Produces bespoke products in a few hours.
brand to virtually try on pieces from her
latest capsule collection with the help of
Augmented Reality.
Customisation in : Tech
HEALTH
Fit Bit & Google Cloud
Data collection - how many steps and
flights of stairs you've climbed.
Generates personalized fitness plans. Data
combined with medical records to deliver a
more complete health care profile to
physicians in the USA.
DEVICES ACCESSORIES
Revols Nike Adapt BB
Custom made wireless earphones. Performance basketball shoe, a system that
Fits unique shape of your ear perfectly. combines an advanced self power-lacing
system and an app to create a custom fit
and a fit that changes with the athletes
movements.
The challenges to mass customisation

Data Protection
•  GDPR and consent
•  Increased data protection will spur more regulation
•  The future of bespoke services relies on data collection

Price & Scalability

•  Bespoke services often come with a higher price tag
•  Reduces accessibility into brand
•  Barrier to mass production

Online services needs to mimic face-to-face

•  Needs brand support & education
•  Need to bring higher service and recommendation online
•  Not all approaches to bespoke will sell on their own
•  Customers prefers guidance and products already made for them
Mini  YOURS  service  enables  to  customise  small  parts  of  a  car  
which  are  then  produced  with  3D  printers.    
The future of customisation

ü  Data collection will play a major part in the future of

customisation enabling a more personalised customer
experience

ü  Devices will read facial expressions to enhance online

experience and offer product selection based on moods and
behaviour

ü  3D printing will make mass customisation affordable,

spurring brands to rethink their supply chain

ü  AI and AR will help bridge online and physical store

experiences eg: personalising product display depending on who’s Neiman  Marcus  “Snap.  Find.  Shop.”  A  mobile  app  -­‐  enabling  
shoppers  to  upload  photos  of  objects  they  like  in  the  real  world  to  
in front of it (analysing gender, age, style), robot personal assistants find  similar  products  in  the  catalogue.    
will act as personal shopping assistant
Thank you!

Emmanuelle Moeglin // founder & perfumer // Experimental Perfume Club

1 Westgate Street, London E8 3RL

em@experimentalperfumeclub.com

www.layers.experimentalperfumeclub.com