CHAPTER 1
Desire: Sweetness
Plat: The Apple
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sr Ath, ea sev of Oi ie nd
owes syste rk
wih ir iy bh eer
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compre of myn te iene of
Sener roy
"he pc ed fect of ht fen
come tof neta ata eat
Sete ghee st econ a
tnt our ge es nym
pth orayathr brent4 The Bony of Desire
fora shirt anda tn po fora hat. According to she main Fer
son County who deemed the scene worth recording the fellow in
the canoe appeared toe snoozing without acarein the word ei
dey trastng in the river to take him wherever it was he wanted.
ogo. Theother hull his sideca, was idnglow in the water ander
‘the weight ofa small mountain of sods that hed been cael
‘blanked with mse and ud to ep them fom drying out in
shes,
“The flow snooring in the canoe was John Chapman, already
‘wellknown to people in Obiobyhenickname: Joba Appleseed.
Hewes on his way to Marit, where the Muskingum River pokes
«hig ole into the Ohio's northern bank, pointing straight into
‘he heart ofthe Northwest Terstary. Chapman's plan wast pant
atece murs long one of that iver a-yet-unseted tributaries,
which din the fers, thickly forested hill of ental Ohio as far
‘orth as Mansfeld. nll alibood, Chapman was coming fom
Allegheny County in western Pennsylvania t0 which be returned
euch yet ale apple seeds, separating them out fom the fae
int mounds of pomsce that rose by theback dor of every cider
an. single bushel of apple sed would have been enough to
‘plant more than three hundred thousand tres there's. a0 way of
teling how many bushel of seed Chapman had in tow that day,
‘nut its safe to say his etamaran was bearing several whole or
chars into the wilderness,
‘The image of Joba Chapman and his heap of apple seeds riding
together down the Ohio has stayed with me since I fist came
across ita fer years ag in an out-of print biography. The scene,
formes has the resonance of myth—a myth about hw plants 2nd
‘people learned to use each other each doing forthe other things
they could not do for themes, in the bargain changing cach
othe and improving thie common lt
Henry David Thoreau once wrote that iis remarkable bow
Theapple «5
dosly the history ofthe apple tre is connected with that of man”
and much of the American chapter ofthat story canbe teased out
‘of Chapman’sstor. les the story of how pioneers like him helped
domestcate the frontier by seng it with Old Word plants “Ex-
‘tc wee apt 0 cal thee spies today in disparagement, yet
svthost them the American wilderness might never ave become
home, What did the apple got in return? A golden age: untold
new varieties and halfa word of new habitat
Avan emblem of the marrage between people and pants, the
design of Chapman's pcala ft shes ne asst ight inpy-
yg does a elation of parity and reciprocal exchange between
instwo passengers. More than most of ws do, Chapman seems to
have had Knack for looking atthe world fom the plans point
ofiew—pomocentrcalls? you might sa. He understood he was
working forthe apples as muchas they were working fri. Per-
haps that's why he sometimes kenedhimselft bumblebee and
why he wold rg up his boat the wayhe dd nse of towing is
“shipment of seed behind his, Chapman lshed the to hulls to-
ether so they would travel down the ivr sige by side.
We give ours altogether too much credit in our dealings
‘with othe species. Ben the power over ature that domestication
apposed represents is overstated, I takes to to perform that
particular dance, fer al, and plenty of plants and animals have
lected to iit out Thy as they might people have never been able
to domesiste the oak tre, whose highly nutritious acorn re-
main fa oo bitter forhumansto eat, viel the eachss sucha
gement with the squirrel—which oligingly fr-
‘et wher it hs buried every fourth acorn or so (adeitedly, the
cotinate is Beatrix Potters) —that the tree has never needed to
‘mtr into any kindof formal arangement with 3.
‘The apple hasbeen fr more eager to do business with humans,
snd pothape nowhere more so than in America Like generations
sation