CUTTING AND SPREADING

Cutting is the pre-production process of separating a spread into garment parts that are of precise size and
shape of the pattern pieces on a marker. The cutting process may also involve transferring marks and
notches from the marker to the garment parts to assist operators in sewing.

Where large quantities of a garment style are to be cut, a lay is created which consist of many plies of
fabric spread one above the other. From this, all the garment pieces for all the sizes that have been
planned for that lay are cut. The pattern shapes for these garments are present on a printed paper marker
placed on top of the lay.

Although scissors are used very rarely-only when working with very small batches or sensitive fabrics-
cutting continues to be done by hand, particularly in many lower volume establishments. Here, cutters
guide electric cutting machines around the perimeter of pattern pieces, cutting through the fabric stack. An
electric drill may be used to make pattern notches.

The accuracy and efficiency of this system is considerably less than in computerized cutting systems.
Computerized cutting systems are achieving more widespread use as technology costs decrease and labor
costs rise. These computer-driven automated cutters utilize vacuum technology to hold stacks of fabric in
place while cutting. Cutting blades are sharpened automatically based upon the type of fabric being cut.
Gerber Garment Technology manufactures one of the most commonly used cutting systems. This
technology has the advantage of being highly accurate and fast, but does cost considerably more than
other cutting techniques
The cutting department is responsible for cutting the lay as per the cutting plan (marker) generated by the
“Planning Department”. After cutting the panels are fused according to the requirement
Cutting is also a direct interface for the pattern department by way of making markers. A lot of effort is
involved in making sure that the markers are provided in the required manner to eliminate the chances of
mistakes. Effort goes into making sure that every single details of the style is considered while marker
making. That is why cutting plays a vital role in having a correct pattern
Automated cutting room also involves highly accurate CNC machine which run on an established
technology and there by maintenance become very important. Preventive maintenance and TPM activities
are carried out in a very efficient manner.
 SPREADING SECTION
A proper fabric spreading process in garments may effect on productivity, quality, and cost of the
production. Fabric spreading is very important task to maintain proper shape of fabric before cutting of
garments.
A proper fabric spreading process in garments may effect on productivity, quality, and cost of the
production. Fabric spreading is very important task to maintain proper shape of fabric before cutting of
garments.
Fabric spreading according to lay scheduling:-
Lay scheduling check before spreading
 Fabric Length and Width
 Fabric Tension
 Fabric Splicing
 Fabric Ply Direction
 Pay Number
 Plies
 Fabric types
Spreading process:-

SPREADING PROCESS
FABRIC WIDTH REPORT
CAD & Pattern Dept.
MARKER PLANNING
Manual & Nested
Cutter machine Soft copy
LAY REPORT

FABRIC REQUISITION
Soft copy
FABRIC DEPT.
Hard Copy
FABRIC ISSUE

BARCODE SCANNING

SUPER MARKET

SPREADING TABLE

CUTTING MACHINE

NUMBERING

FUSING

BUNDLING
SPREADING EQUIPMENT’S:
Spreading machine:-

Spreading
Manual
Automatic

Manual Spreading:
 In manual spreading fabric is drawn from its package which, if it is a roll, is supported by a
frame and carried along the table where the end is secured by clamps.

 The operators work back from the end, aligning the edges and ensuring that there is no tension and
that there are no wrinkles.
Automatic Spreading Machine:-
 Spreading machines carry the pieces of fabric from end to end of the spread, dispensing
only one ply at a time on the spread.
 Spreading machine includes:
o
A motor to drive.
o
A platform on which the operator rides.
o
A ply cutting device with automatic catcher to hold the ends of ply in place.
o
A ply counter.
o
An alignment shifter actuated by photo electric edge guides.

A direct drive on the fabric support, synchronized with the speed of travel, to reduce or eliminate tension in the
fabric being spread.

Spreading Modes:

• For Trousers
– Solid – Face Up Spreading
– Check Stripes – Face to Face

• For Jackets
– Face to Face (generally)
• For Bulk orders 8 way and 4 way markers used else 2 way and 1 way.
• 6.5 m pin table used for spreading suit and 4 m used for jackets.

Fabric is to be received from fabric store department along with following details:
 Usable fabric width
 Colour /shade code
 Length of rolls

Spreading operator is to receive lay report consisting of following details:

 Purchase Order
 Style Number
 Lay Number
 Lay method –Face up / Face to face
 Fabric type –Shell/ Lining /Interlining / Fusing
 Colour / Shade
 Lot quantity
 Marker name
 Marker length
 Lay length
 Usable fabric width
 No of plies to be spread
 Consumption

Standard Spreading Procedure:

 Spreading operator is to observe a lay report generated from CAD section for above-mentioned
detail.
 Operator is to receive fabric roll from fabric receipt section as per lay details.
 Operator is to set the machine parameter as per lay details. For instance, lay length, no of plies;
spreading method and start point.
 Operator is to load fabric roll in cradle of spreading machine.

Operator is to observe fabric behaviour i.e.:-

o
Fabric composition
o
Stretch -warp way & weft way
o
Fabric stability.

Operator is to spread one ply and check marker length and width of fabric
Operator is to spread 2 to 3 plies & observe for wrinkle or stretch of fabric. Accordingly, he/she has to
adjust the counter weights in forward or backward direction.

Note: Adjustment is as follows:

Wrinkle: Move the counter weight in forward direction

Stretch: Move the counter weight in backward direction
Face Up spreading: Adjust only two counter weights
Face-To-Face spreading: Adjust all four-counter weights
After completion of each roll; operator is to mention following detail in spreading / laying report:-

Roll reference number

Fabric roll width

Fabric usable width

Fabric roll length

Colour /shade code

Usage in meters

Balance quantity


Similarly, spreading has to continue for a required number of plies in a lay. And required numbers of
lays are spread to achieve required cut quantity in purchase order.

Operator is to maintain machine and follow daily maintenance schedule.

Spreading Check Points:

o
Fabric composition
o
Stretch –Warp way & Weft way
o
Fabric stability
o
Fabric direction e.g. Nape, Twill
o
Wrinkle or Stretch in a spread ply
o
Left side edge of fabric ply should be aligned to each other
o
Extreme ends of plies should be aligned
o
Fabric laid should be 1 to 1 ½ more than the marker length
o
The fabric laid should never be less than marker width
o
Only relaxed/sponged fabric to be spread if buyer required so.

No defective or rejected fabric to be laid & fabric defects should be marked with white chalk

MACHINE DETAILS:

S. No. Machine Brand Number

1. Automatic Spreader Morgan 1

2. Automatic Spreader Gerber 2

3. Automatic Cutter Gerber 4

4. Automatic Cutter Morgan 1
5. Vacuum Tables Gerber 5
6. Pin Tables (6.5m) Veith 2
7. Pin Tables (4m) Veith 1
 8. Band Knife Eastman 3
9. Straight Knife Eastman 2
10. End Cutter Eastman 5
11. Fusing Machines Kannegiessar 5
12. Fusing Machines Weishi 1
13. Fusing Machines Relient Cool Stream 1

 The spreaders are 1.8 metres wide and can spread a fabric roll up to a width of 1.8 metre.
 2 Pinning tables are of length 6 metres and 1 of 4 metres.
 Cutting Section
In this process, fabric is being cut into components (shapes or patterns of different garment parts, i.e.
front, back, side panel, sleeve, collar, front and back panel in case of trouser etc.). in mass production
multiple layers of fabric are laid on the table i.e. spreading and large number of garments is being cut at a
time.the laid fabric stack is called as lay. Cutting of lay is done using straight knife, band knife and
automatic CNC cutter ; and sometimes manual cutting with the help of scissor in case of re-cutting.

Cutting Process

Lay pully to cutter table

Unrolling plastic cover(PVC)

Loading cut file on system

Changing set-up a/c to no. of plies as well as Standard height

Width checking and length checking

Setting origin point

Bit cutting start

Bit Shifting

Tyeing Cut pieces

Pieces sent to numbering table

Cutting Inspection Procedure:

Cut Block Inspection:

In this inspection, all blocks are 100% inspected on the pattern.

Critical to Quality:-
 Serial Numbers
 Shape Off
 Shrinkage of cutparts after fusing
 Wrong size
 Wrong serial number
 Panel length/width
 Parts missing
 Mismatch stripe/checks
 Number visibility
 Bowing/Skewing
Cut Blocks to be Inspected:-
Jacket Shell : Front, Back, Side Panel, Top Sleeve, Insleeve & Lapel
Jacket Lining :- Front, Back, Side Panel, Top Sleeve, Insleeve.
Trouser:- Front, Back, Waistband, Fly, Facing, Pocket Bgs, Knee Lining.
Vest Shell:- Front, Side Panel, lapel Facing.
Vest Lining:- Front Lining, Back, Side Panel Lining

Visual Inspection For Fabric Defect:-

In this inspection, all cut panels are 100% visually inspected for fabric defect to eliminate final rejection.
Critical To Quality
 Missing pick
 Double pick
 Missing End
 Foreign yarn
 Naps
 Slubs
 Knots
 Hole/Damage
 Selvedge

Cut Blocks to be Inspected:-

 Jacket Shell : Front, Back, Side Panel, Top Sleeve, Insleeve & Lapel
 Jacket Lining :- Front, Back, Side Panel, Lining
 Trouser:- Front, Back
 Vest Shell:- Front, Side Panel, lapel Facing.
 Vest Lining:- Front Lining, Back, Side Panel Lining
Roaming Inspection

Roaming Inspection

Following inspection parameters are Following inspection parameters are

checked while Spreading is done checked while Fusing

Critical To Quality(Spreading) Critical To Quality(Spreading)

Buyer Name Fusing Machine Temp.
Style Pressure
PO Number Timing
Color Bond Strength
Lay Number Fusing Excess/shortage
Lay Quantity Measurement(+-)
Lay types(F to F or Face up/down Fusing marks
Lay length & Width Bubbling/Wrinkle
Numbers of plies
Bowing & Skewing
Fabric Defect
Lay tension Inspecton Producers:-
In this, bond strength is checked four
Strips/Checks Match
times in a day across the lines & fused
blocks are inspected two times per day
Inspection Producers:-
of each line by covering al parts of a lay
This inspection is carried out one time in
each line per day randomly across the
cutting section
 Numbering

Numbering process is essential giving identity to the individual parts. Two types of numbering is done:

1. STICKER PLACEMENT: a standard sticker machine is used in which roller scale and number is placed
as per the number sequence given from CAD.

2. INK STAMPING: this is mechanical machine in which (Silver)ink pad are placed on the number
generator roll and the setting is made as per the number sequence given from CAD. Repeat of numbers
can also be set by means of a linear scale which will be converted into rotary action by number
movement.

Numbering is an important process in the cutting room. It is the process of giving all the components of
a garment a unique number, so that they can be paired together while sewing. For shell, collar felt and
sleeve lining, stickers are put using the sticker machine, whereas for body lining, the numbers are
stamped using a stamping machine.

Problems that can occur due to wrong numbering are enlisted below:

• Shade variation.
• Assembly of face side and wrong side.
• Different size components assembled together.

The input for the numbering section is the output of the cutting machine. The parts (shell, lining, collar
felt) cut at the cutter are brought to numbering tables.

At the numbering tables, these points must be checked:

• Cut sticker must be present on all the components. Any missing cut sticker would lead to wastage
of time in finding out the details of the unnamed components.

• Check Summary Report to see if correct details are mentioned on the cut stickers before starting
with numbering. Buyer’s name, style number, color, lay number, size and quantity are checked.

• Before starting with numbering first time in the day, clean the stamp with white petrol and cloth to
make sure there is no paint. This ensures that the numbers stamped are clear and easy to read. The
stamping machine should be taped as well.

CLEANING NUMBERING M/C

• Refill the paint in the stamping machine. Squeeze out the paint from the bottle onto the refill pad.
• Put new sticker roll in the sticker machine.
Numbering Operation:
 Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAM) - Operator is to keep cut panel on a storage table in ratio
wise & colour wise manner.
Ex: 30 * 32, Black Colour all cut parts i.e. front, back, fly, bone, pocket-facing piece are
together.
 CAM - Operator is to mark on backside of fabric of first ply of each & every cut part to avoid face
side/backside confusion or starting ply number confusion.
 Operator is to observe lay report to know following details regarding lay or lot.
a) Lot number.
b) Purchase order
c) Style
d) Colour
e) Number of plies
Numbering Place Value

In case of trouser, Numbering consists of 10 digits

• For a particular purchase order, number starts from one and end at last cut order quantity.
• Irrespective of size and colour number is given as per the purchase order & lay number.

In case of Jacket numbering consists of 8 digits

Digit Nomenclature
2 Number of front buttons
40 Fixed alphabet ‘S’, that stands for size
2 Reg. code
99 Serial number of panel
0146 Serial Number

For a particular colour of purchase order, number starts from one and end at last cut order quantity.As
per jacket size and serial number, digit number varies.

Numbering Check Points:

Face side and backside should be checked with swatch card.

First ply of layer should be observed properly.

Numbering should be done on backside of panel.

Number should not skipped

Number should be clear & at defined position.

Numbering should vanish after required time period.

Numbered parts should be bundle correctly.
GLOSSARY

• Cut Sticker: Cut stickers are generated in the CAD office, using the software, E- Matters.
The input required to generate a cut sticker is:
o Buyer’s name
o Order number
o Style number
o Sizes
 o Quantity for each size
o Type of lay (shell, body lining, body fusing, knee lining etc.)
These are put and the software generates a template that can be directly used to print on the stickers.
The cut sticker has information of the buyer, the style number, lay number, size and garment number.
Summary Sheet:- A summary sheet has information of the buyer, order number, total order quantity,
lay number, color, size, quantity and numbers of the pieces segregated size wise. It is a very important
document generated in the CAD office using the Morgan Software. It helps in numbering. Any errors in
the summary sheet can lead to wrong numbering which can affect quality of the garments being
produced.

FUSING
Fusing process is one of the most important processes in cutting department. Fusing materials
essentially provide strength, stiffness and stability to the garment and adds to the presentation of the
garment. There are various types of fusing depending on the application. The most three parameter in
fusing are:
1. Temperature
2. Pressure
3. Fusing time

Different types of fusing have different setting of parameter. The fusing machine must be set as per the
required parameters for particular fabrics and fusing. A standard guideline about the fusing setting will
be given from fabric section. Another important process here is FUSE line BOND testing. Bond testing is
a process of mechanically testing the fuse line pressure (in kgs) by means of mechanical weight scale.
The process is performed at starting of any new style and the same displayed alongside the machine.
Also the fusing machine are tested for temperature manually.

Standard fusing guidelines for different parts will be provided for ease of placements of fusing pieces
on the shell fabric.

FUSING TECHNOLOGY IN GARMENT INDUSTRY:-

The most important area of garment construction where an alternative process has significantly taken
over from sewing is in the attachment of interlinings. When interlinings are sewn in, it can be difficult
on parts such as collars to avoid a wrinkling of the interlining inside the collar and pucker around the
edge. On large parts such as jacket fronts, the attachment of interlinings by sewing is expensive and
requires a skill if a high standards is to be achieved. The alternative process which has been developed
is that of fusing. Fusing technology whereby the interlining is bonded to the outer fabric by means of a
thermoplastic resin. The term fusible interlining is used to describe a base fabric coated on one side
with a thermoplastic adhesive resin which can be bonded to another fabric by the controlled
application of heat and pressure. These materials, generally called fusible, provide the designer with a
number of properties which can enhance the appearance of finished garments.

ADVANTAGES OF INTERLINING:
 Garments with interlining tend to be stronger, because of the added layer of fabric support.

 They drape better compared to non-interlined garments.

  Interlining generally bespeaks a higher level of quality in a garment, because of the additional
manufacturing time involved.

 Interlining can also be used to protect fabrics, especially those used in drapes and consequently
often exposed to direct light. Delicate fabrics like silk and velvet can suffer from sun damage if hung
with a liner alone, and most drapers recommend the use of an interlining for the life of the fabric.

in quilting, the layer offers an extra bit of fluffiness, along with warmth in the winter.

MAJOR CHALLENGES IN FUSING TECHNOLOGY:

• Modern fashion fabrics and interlinings are more delicate.

• Fabrics are generally finer and lighter.

• They are more sensible to temperature and pressure.

• They have more tendencies to shrinkage under temperature.

• Many fabrics are elastic, some in both directions.

• Textile finish with softeners can effect fusing.

• Modern fusible interlinings are lighter and thinner. 8. There is more chance of strike back of fusing.
There are four types of fusing are used in this plant:
1. BODY FUSING- They are basically a woven fusing, which is fused at front panel of the jacket and also
sometimes at lapel, depending upon buyer requirement. They are generally white or black in color.

2. PART FUSING-They are basically non-woven fusing, which is fused at different part of the panels like
collar, shoulder, side seam, inseam, arm-hole ,bottom line, dart, pocket, bone, flap etc. They are
generally white or charcoal in color.

3. NR FUSING- They are so called because of presence of nylon thread in non-woven fusing. They are used
to strengthen the seams and are fused at side seam, in- seam, collar& shoulder .They are generally
white or black in color.

4. WHITE FUSING – This fusing is named after its color. It is used in few parts of panel which are as buyer
requirement.

FUSING MACHINES:
There are seven fusing machines used for jacket fusing
Machine type No. of machine
Kannegiesser 5
Weishi 1
Reliant Cool stream 1

Men-Power for Fusing: There are 10 operators for feeding the parts and 3 operators for collecting these
parts. The distribution for each part is as follows:
Feeding:
 Front – 3 Operators
 Back and top-sleeve – 3 Operators
 Side-panel and In-sleeve – 1 Operator each
 Lapel – 1 Operator
 Small Parts – 1 Operator

Collecting:
 All Parts – 1 Operator

Note-Small parts includes Collar, Neck band, Welt, Bone and Flap

Fusing Start Before check Lay scheduling

 Operator is to receive lay report from numbering section.

 Operator is to observe lay report to know following details:
o
Lot Number
o
Purchase order
o
Style
o
Colour
o
Number of plies
o
Serial number
 Operator is to observe fabric type i.e. solid, checks, and stripes
 Operator is to also consider following.
o
Fusing Type e.g. part fusing, knitted fusing, woven fusing etc.
o
Lot no
o
Style


Operator is to segregate cut fuse material as per size, colour, right side and left side.

Operator is to set working parameter of fusing machine as per required quality or buyer setting
parameter. In case of a new shell fabric, operator is to do trial fusing and get approval from the concerned.

Normally working parameters are as follows:

Buyer Temperature Pressure Speed

Raymond 130’C 3 Bar 7.5 m/min

 Once working parameters are approved, operators is to observe following things before starting
bulk fusing operation:
o
Correct shell and fuse type.
o
Correct shell and fuse size.
o
Correct shell and fuse color and shade.
o
Correct working parameter of a fusing material.

 Operator is to pass material gently on the conveyor belt of fusing machine.

Note: Operator is to use entire machine belt area to feed the material.
 Operator is to collect fused material gently without any fold or wrinkle.
 Operator is to do fusing panel wise, size wise and color wise.
 Operator is to maintain machine and follow daily maintenance schedule.

PANEL INSPECTION
Inspection Procedure
 Operator is to receive lot along with lay report from fusing section & observe lay report to know
following details:
o
Lot Number
o
Style
o
Serial Number
o
Method of spreading
o
Number of plies
o
Quantity- lay wise and size wise

 Operator is to observe cut summary to know cut quantity-size and color wise
 Panel inspection:-

(a) Cut panel pattern inspection: Operator is to inspect panel against respective pattern for

Size

Shape of panel

Notch
Note: Technical manager is to approve inspection pattern.
Operator is to do inspection on 2.5 Acceptance Quality Level (AQL) bases. If lot gets rejected on 2.5 AQL
bases, then go for 100 % inspection.
.
(b) Fabric defect inspection: Operator is to do 100 % panel inspection i.e. individual panel is to get
inspected for following defects: -
o
Yarn defects,
o
Weaving defects,
o
Finishing defects,
o
Cutting defects, and
o
Spreading defects.

Note: Operator has to check panel on transparent glass checking table-having light 500-600 Lux.

 Operator is to remove defective panel from a lay and simultaneously, record defects in ‘Check Point
Format’. Followed by that, operator is to give defective panels to re-cutting section by maintaining
record of following details in internal re-cutting format.
o
Purchase
 Order
o
 Style name
o
 Color
o
 Part Name or Number
o
 Lay number
o
Serial number
Note: Re-cutting section is to recut panel from the respective ply end bit to replace defective panel of a
lay, do numbering and if necessary get it fused and give it back to Panel inspection section.
 
Operator is to again inspect the recut panel, put it into respective bundle and update a record
before issuing to sewing section.


• Point to be noted during inspection:

o
 Cut panel inspection is to be conducted in a separate sub-section in cutting department.
o
The defect standards to be displayed in subsection: i.e. acceptable, rejected is clearly
 marked and displayed separately.
o
Replacement of defective part is to take place from same roll or same roll end-bits to avoid
any shade variation.

3. Panel Inspection & Matching Point:

Operator is to inspect & match respective panel as follows:

BUNDLING

This is a process in which individual parts are clubbed together in bunches and made ready for the process
of issue to line. The bundling process is usually done lay wise and a standard numbering sequence
generator is provided for bundling and the operators make sure that they arrange the different parts
according to the required lays and make it ready to issue to lines in material handling trolleys. Here, the
arrangement is made section wise.

After bundling, the cut parts are issued to sewing lines by means of issue slip.

RE-CUTTING AND MIS REPORT RE-CUTTING

Apart from the regular process, a service requirement from cutting is re- cutting which is essentially a
manual hand cutting process to cut parts which are either found defective in cutting inspection or brought
from sewing section as damaged parts. Here, a record is kept in which the parts has been cut or at least the
shade of the parts is matched before re-cutting. A separate area for rejected parts/ panels is designated to
ease in identify and for further transactions.

MIS REPORTS

Final cut report (FCR) This report give the size wise cut quantities across
each order and indicate short close or extra
quantities of any size. This report is distributed to
all the departments to make sure that they are
geared up for all eventualities.
Fabric consumption Essentially indicates the amount of fabric
report consumed, the quantity cut and the fabric left over
in roll and end bit and individual garment
consumption.
Order completion A part of the required is OCR, for which cutting will
report provide cut quantities, fabric consumed, fabric
returned and cutting rejects.
Daily production Daily production report as a part of MIS
report requirement is provided as per Proman software.
JACKET
 Front Panel
o
 Size, shape and notch
o
 Front panel to side panel
o
 Front- dart cut at same point
o
 Right front to left Front
o
 Front to top sleeve
o
 Front panel – flap pocket
o
 Front panel to chest pocket
 Back Panel
o
 Size shape & notch
o
 Back panel to collar
o
 Back panel to back panel centreline
o
 Back panel to side panel
 Sleeve

 Size, shape and notch

 Top sleeve to under sleeve
 Lapel
o
 Size, shape and notch
o
 Lapel to lapel
o
Lapel to front panel

TROUSER

 Front Panel:

 Size shape and notch

 Front panel to back panel

 Front panel to pocket facing
o
 Back Panel

 Size shape and notch

 Back Panel to back panel at seat seam.
o
 Waist band

 Right waist to left waistband

Left waistband to left extension

Note: Solid fabric inspects size, shape & notch. Checks & Strips inspects size, shape, notch & matching
point as mentioned above