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Abstract: Silicones find wide application in textile finishing. Silicone based emulsions and
softeners impart softness and smoothness which is unique and unparalleled by any other
group of softeners. The basic silicone backbone can be modified by the help of introducing
various functional groups to customize its end use according to specific requirements. This
work studies the effect of various functional groups and particle size of the emulsion on its
performance with respect to friction coefficient, Whiteness Index, Drape Coefficient, and
also by SEM.
Introduction: The science of silicon has its origin in nature. Sand or silica, which is the fine
residue of quartz rock, is made up of the two most abundant elements in the earth’s crust,
The Silicone produced from equation (1) is a solid metallic material and has to be crushed
into powder of particle size ranging from 100-350 nm for reaction in the Rochow process.
Now these crushed silicones are used in the preparation of silicone compounds to make
SILICONE STRUCTURE
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Silicone polymers can be constructed in 3 ways
A) Comb:
CH3 Si O ( Si O ) 50 ( Si O ) 10 Si CH3
B) Terminal:
R Si O ( Si O ) 50 Si R
M* M*
C) Multi functional:
R Si O ( Si O ) ( Si O )5 Si R
50
The functional differences between the comb and the terminal structures are the difference in
the number of substituents, which is limited to two in the terminal type (two at each end), but
in the comb compound the functional groups can be larger than two [2].
PROPERTIES OF SILICONE
The long Si-O and Si-C bonds reduce steric conflicts between methyl groups of neighboring
silicone atom that would otherwise occur and allow unusual freedom of rotation (low energy
barrier) about the Si–O and Si–C bonds. This great degree of freedom of rotation gives very
effective screening of the polar Si–O backbone by methyl groups in its entire configuration,
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Low crystalline melting points
Low viscosities
Effective lubrication of fibre due to poor surface interaction between silicone covered
fiber [3].
Advantages: The silicones impart a finish with unique quality, which is durable to
repeated washings. The fabric becomes soft with good handle, a full body is achieved
along with improved elasticity. The finish also provides excellent sewing properties,
wrinkle recovery and heat and stain resistance. They are also versatile and can be
applied to all kinds of textiles from natural to synthetic and woven to hosiery and if
to the fabric by silicones depend upon the nature of the organic functional groups that are
ability.
3. Epoxy modified silicones: This impact an enhanced softness and smooth feel to the
4. Carboxy modified silicones: It can be used in conjunction with epoxy and amino
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5. Hydrophillic modified silicones: This by its hydrophillicity reduces the kinetic friction
6. Mercapto modified silicones and amido modified silicones: Used in making car
7. Polyethene modified silicones: They possess low coefficient of friction and are hence
8. Amino modified silicones: Apart from tear resistance it imparts an enhanced softness
Silicone Macro emulsion-based Softeners: these softeners have a bigger particle size
appearance. These softeners due to its size deposit on the fibre surface and give surface
been commercialized, recently has ushered in a wide range of premium softeners. These
improved hand, better durable press properties, increased stretch and recovery of knitted
The micro emulsion have particle size less than 1/4 th the wavelength of light and are
translucent to clear in appearance. The micro emulsion technology has enhanced the
shear and chemical stability of the treatment bath. Hence the silicone remains emulsified
eliminating the occurrence of free silicone oil that can spot the fabric. The smaller size
also helps in better penetration so that it is less of a surface treatment and more of an
internal softener.
commercially available softeners of both micro and macro emulsion range with different
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evaluation may vary from person to person hence the performances were evaluated not
only in terms of the feel but also quantitatively in terms of Whiteness Index, Friction and
Drape coefficient. Scanning electron microscopy was used to study the effect of the
application of these softeners on the various performance properties and also its effect on
individual fibres on a microscopic level. The experimental details of the same are given
below:
Experimental Details
Material: Single jersey RFD knit for evaluation of whiteness Index.
Softeners Studied:
Product-A: A new generation of shear stable nano silicone softener which can be used
by both exhaust and padding.
Product-B: A micro – emulsion softener, which imparts excellent inner softness and
lubricity.
Product-C: A micro-emulsion softener for both natural and synthetic fibres, and is
compatible with organic softeners and cross-linking agents.
Product-D: A special economical macro-emulsion softener for cotton, polyester and their
blends.
Product-E: A reactive micro-emulsion silicone softener, which imparts excellent softness
and handle to the fabric.
Product-F: A new generation polysiloxane softener for both cotton and polyester.
Product-G: A macro-emulsion based softener for natural and synthetic fibres (bulk trials
being conducted).
Product-H: A especially developed micro-emulsion based softener with non-yellowing
properties.
Application: The Softeners were applied on the fabric by Pad-Dry method on a
laboratory padding machine with a pickup of 70% and drying temperature of 160°C.
Fabric Softness: The softness of the samples were evaluated by means of the fabric feel
and a qualitative relative ranking amongst them were given as depicted in Table 1 & 2.
All the fabrics treated with the softeners had an improved softness, but the softness and
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the feel imparted by Product-C, Product-B and Product-D were found to be better than
differs from the conventional light microscope by the fact that it creates magnification by
electrons instead of light waves. The microscope shows detailed 3-dimensional images
with a much higher magnification as compared to light microscope. The sample is placed in
a vacuum tunnel and a electron gun emits high energy electrons. As the electron beam hits
the specimen, secondary electrons are knocked from the surface, and the final image is
built from the number of electrons emitted from each spot. The comparative study of the
microscopic structure with the scanning electron microscope (SEM) as illustrated in Fig1-3
of the unfinished fabric, the fabric finished with a conventional macro-emulsion based
softener, namely Product-D, and fabric treated with a micro-emulsion softener Product-C
clearly indicates an improved smoothness and lubrication of the fibres as compared to that
of the unfinished fabric. The fibre strands look smoother due to the lubricating property of
Whiteness Index (WI): Whiteness is the measurement of light reflectance across all
wavelengths of light comprising the full visible spectrum. Whiteness index gives a single
number referencing the relative degree of whiteness. CIE whiteness index is (AATCC Test
Method 110-1995) most commonly used for textiles, and the measurement is done under
D65 illuminant, which is a standard representation of outdoor daylight. The equation for WI
is as follows:
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Table 1, and Figure 4, illustrates the whiteness index of the fabric after the application of
the softener as compared to the unfinished fabric. The results shows no significant
detrimental effect of the softener on the whiteness index of the fabric, and hence, these
softeners can be readily applied on white textile substrates, (without fear of yellowing at a
later date .)
Friction Coefficient: The fabric-to-fabric friction coefficient was determined by an
attachment to the Instron Tensile Tester. The dynamic friction between fabric to fabric
was determined as one moved over the other under a specific normal load. As we are
well aware that the performance of a silicone softener depends on many factors like, the
particle size, emulsifying system, the amine content, viscosity etc., and the frictional
coefficient is a measure of the surface properties of the substrate. An uneven and rugged
surface has a higher frictional coefficient. This phenomenon when translated onto the
fabric properties means that the fabric feels rough and abrasive when touched. Surface
lubricity assumes a greater significance as far as lowering of the frictional coefficient is
concerned as depicted in Figure 5, and the results indicate that all the softeners lowered
the friction coefficient as compared to the unfinished fabric, the softeners, which imparts
surface lubrication were more effective in this case i.e for the improvement of the friction
properties.
Drapability: As far as the drapability of the fabric is concerned as shown in Figure 6 the
nano-emulsion and micro-emulsion based softeners like Product-A, Product-B show
better drapability values as compared to the macro-emulsion based softeners, which is
due to the fact that the nano and micro-emulsions due to their small size are able to reach
areas in the fibre that are not accessible to conventional softeners with normal particle
size and so can penetrate to the fibre core resulting in improved inner softness and
enhanced inter and intra fibre lubrication. Whereas the drapability of macro-emulsion
based softeners is lower as due to their bigger size these softeners are unable to
penetrate to the fibre core.
Table 1: Softness, Whiteness Index of RFD Knitted Fabric with Different Silicone Finishes
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Finishing Agent Softness Whiteness
Rating Index (CIE)
Unfinished 9 86
Product-A 6 79
Product-B 1 77
Product-C 2 79
Product-D 4 82
Product-E 7 79
Product-F 8 84
Product-G 5 80
Product-H 3 85
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Figu
88
86
84
Figure-2: Effect of
80
0.9
78
0.85
76
0.8
fficient
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74
Figure- 6: Effect of Softners on Drape coefficient of RFD Knits
Figure-3: Effect
38
36
34
Drape Co-efficient
32
30
26
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Figure 2: SEM Study of Cotton Finished with a Macro emulsion Softener
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