Effectiveness of Ayurvastra On Pregnant Women

EFFECTIVENESS OF AYURVASTRA MATERNITY
WEAR ON PREGNANT WOMEN

By
THUSHARA MK
MD/16/155
Submitted to National Institute of Fashion Technology – Kannur in Partial
Fulfillment for the award of Degree of
MASTERS IN DESIGN
DEPARTMENT OF DESIGN SPACE
Faculty guide
MOHAMMED ANSAR
Associate Professor
Design Space Department
Kannur 2018
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This dissertation titled _________________________________________________
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________________ submitted by _________________________ to NIFT – Kannur in
Partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Design of National
Institute of Fashion Technology at Kannur and hereby certify that in the judgment of
The following members of jury it is worth of acceptance:
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Signature of CC - Design Space
2 © 2018 National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT)

DECLARATION
I declare that the thesis entitled “EFFECTIVENESS OF AYURVASTRA MATERNITY WEAR
ON PREGNANT WOMEN” is a record of original research work undertaken by me for the
award of the degree of Master of Design in Discipline under the supervision of MOHAMMED
ANSAR, Associate Professor, MASTER OF DESIGN, National Institute of Fashion
Technology, Kannur, and has not formed the basis for the award of any degree, diploma,
associate ship, fellowship, or titles. I hereby confirm the originality of the work and that there is
no plagiarism in any part of the dissertation.
Place: Kannur Signature of the candidate
Date: Name: Thushara MK
Reg No. MD/16/155
Master of Design
National Institute of Fashion Technology

CERTIFICATE
This is to certify that the thesis submitted by THUSHARA MK (Reg.No.MD/16/155), entitled
“EFFECTIVENESS OF AYURVASTRA MATERNITY WEAR ON PREGNANT WOMEN” in
fulfilment for the award of Master of Design is a record of original research work carried out by
her during the academic year 2016 to 2018 under my supervision. This thesis has not formed the
basis for the award of any degree, diploma, associate ship, fellowship or other titles. I hereby
confirm the originality of the work and that there is no plagiarism in any part of the dissertation.
Place: Kannur Signature of the Mentor
Date MOHAMMED ANSAR
Associate Professor
Master of Design
National Institute of Fashion Technology

ABSTRACT
The study is about Ayurvastra and how this herbal fabric can used to develop comfortable
therapeutic garments to pregnant women. Ayurvastra is an organic cloth specially treated with
medicinal herbs. It is now used for treatment of diseases like diabetes, skin infections like
eczema, body acne, hypertension, asthma and rheumatism. Today’s generation is more health
conscious so introducing new garments in Ayurvastra will have good marketing in Kerala and
outside Kerala. Still the world goes fashionable but at the time of pregnancy most of the people
go for old age practices especially Keralites. Therefore Ayurvastra for pregnant women can be a
good fabric to wear during their pregnancy period. The idea of this study is to develop
Ayurvastra for pregnant women based on their need and health issues they face during the
pregnancy period. Further, this study will bring fashion into ayurvastra, which will help to
improve the handloom sector in the world of fashion.
Interview, survey and observation method is done to collect the information and to know more
about the problems of pregnant women. Based on the skin problems, natural herbs with
medicinal properties are used to dye the fabric completely. All herbs used in the preparation of
dyes are having individual medicinal properties which can give relief to the wearer. When a
person wears this garment, through skin contact the body will get the medicinal effect of the
fabric.
Inorder to understand the need of pregnant women, questionnaire was prepared. The majority of
the respondents are interested to wear herbal clothing with medicinal properties. Ayurvastra had
undergone many studies and clinical studies by the researchers which gave positive results.

The research revealed that Ayurvastra can be the best fabric for pregnant women and wearing
Ayurvastra during summer season will make the wearer feel cool while compared to other
fabrics.
Keywords
Ayurvastra, Maternity wear, Pregnancy problems, Herbal dyeing, Therapeutic garments.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
With immense pleasure, I would like to present this report as a part of my Graduation Project
on "A Study about Ayurvastra and Introducing New Designs for Maternity Wear ". It has
been an enriching experience for me to undergo this project, which would not have possible
without the goodwill and support of the people around. As a student of National Institute of
Fashion Technology, Kannur I would like to express my sincere thanks to all those who
helped me during this period.
I feel my pleasure to extend my sincere thanks and gratitude to my college mentor Mr. Ansar
Mohammed (Associate Professor, NIFT Kannur) who played his role in guiding me
throughout this project.
I would also like to thank Dr.Priyadarshini (Gynecologist, Parassinikadavu Ayurvedha
Hospital, and Kannur) who gave me all the required informations related to pregnant women
and their problems.
Not to forget, I am also thankful to Dr. Ajith Kumar (Gynecology Head, Pariyaram Hospital)
and Miss Sri Latha (Nurse Superintendent Pariyaram Medical College who was helpful in
providing different facilities during the clinical testing of this project period.
Here comes the time to say my thanks to my institute NIFT which provided me this golden
opportunity. At last but not the least I’d like to thank my parents and dear ones who helped
me directly or indirectly through their valuable suggestions.

However, I accept the sole responsibility for any possible error of omission and would be
extremely grateful to the readers of this project report if they bring such mistakes to my notice.

TABLE OF CONTENTS
SERIAL NO CHAPTERS PAGE NO
CHAPTER 1 11
INTRODUCTION 20
1 1.2 COMPANY PROFILE 21
1.3 OBJECTIVE 21
1.4 SCOPE OF THE PROJECT 21
1.5 PROBLEM STATEMENT
CHAPTER 2
REVIEW OF LITERATURE
2 2.1 AYURVASTRA 22
2.2 MATERNITY WEAR 23
2.3 REVIEW OF LITERATURE 24

CHAPTER 3
3.1 METHODOLOGY 32
3.2 RESEARCH OBJECTIVE 33
3.3 RESEARCH QUESTION 33
3 3.4 METHODS OF DATA COLLECTION 33
i. Interviews 34
ii. Survey & Observation method 34
iii. Experimental method
iv. Clinical trials & Testing 47
METHODS OF DYEING & FABRIC 50
PRODUCTION
4 i. Aloe Vera dyeing 54
ii. Neem dyeing 56
iii. Lemon Dyeing 58
iv. Turmeric dyeing
5 CLINICAL TESTINGS &PREVIOUS 60
STUDIES 62
6 CHAPTER 4 78

4.1 DATA ANALYSIS & FINDINGS
4.2 LIMITATIONS & FUTURE SCOPE
OF PROJECT
CHAPTER 5 72
7
DISCUSSION
75
8
CHAPTER 6
CONCLUSION
REFERENCES 78
9
10 APPENDICES
81
i. Workshop certificate
82
ii. Clinical testing Certificate
83
iii. Photographs

CHAPTER 1
INTRODUCTION

I conducted my Graduation Project at Ayurvedic Herbal Farm and Research Center of Kairali
Exports, the main dyeing process related activities was done in this company. During my course
of project, I tried to understand the benefits and the herbal properties of Ayurvastra, starting from
the herbal dyeing to the clinical testing of the garment. I tried to imply the knowledge I have
gained through the various processing done during my research work. I tried to document it here
with my best efforts.
The study is about Ayurvastra and developing comfortable therapeutic garments for pregnant
women. The fabrics used for developing garments are 100 percent pure organic cotton,
completely dyed by using ayurvedic herbs with medicinal qualities. It is free of synthetic
chemicals and toxic irritants, and is sustainable and biodegradable. Therefore ayurvastra is eco
friendly and soft on the skin with can give nice feeling to the wearer, and the shades are very
natural, which can give a calm feeling. The Ayurvastra are used by many health clinics in the
treatment of diseases such as diabetes, skin infections, eczema, psoriasis, hypertension, high
blood pressure, asthma arthritis, rheumatism.
Ayurvastra is a branch of Ayurveda, the 5,000 year old Indian system of Vedic health care. It is a
Sanskrit word where ‘Ayur' means wellbeing, 'Veda' means wisdom, and 'vastra' is material or
dress. Ayurvastra apparel is produced using natural cotton texture that has been colored with
ayurvedic herbs and oils that advance wellbeing and cure exceptional infections relying on the
mixes of herbs and oils. Ayurvastra (Ayur = life + Vastra = garments) is made of 100% common
strands including cotton, silk, coir, jute and fleece, exceptionally planned woven and made by the
Handloom Weavers Improvement Society.

Through this study, the two of the oldest sciences in the world comes together. It's the
amalgamation of Ayurveda-the study of expanding the life span of a man and making of textile
materials. Man started using textile materials from an early period in different forms like ropes,
garments. The improbable yet stunning blend of these two sciences has brought about
Ayurvastra. The term Ayurvastra, is the name given to a new idea of characteristic dress, which
has the textured yarns implanted with plant drugs and herbs. This therapeutic dress activity was
introduced by the state Handloom directorate under the Ventures division with Government
Ayurveda School, 10 years back. Ayurvastra is natural cotton texture shaded with regular home
grown colors which is of popularity in the fare showcase.
The therapeutic attire is also used as bed materials, sleeping cushions, rugs, floors, roofs, coir
mats and with glossy silk, cloth and silk materials. As it is an eco friendly and sustainable
method, it will not make any effect on the planet thus saving it for the present and future
generations. The most effective time to wear Ayurvastra is when the body is at rest or while
sleeping because this is when the body is naturally healing and re-establishing balance. Wearing
ayurvastra can expand the positive aura. This study aims to develop comfortable maternity wear
which can cure the common health problems of a pregnant woman.
"The doctor of the future will give no medicine, but will interest his patients in the care of the
human frame, in diet, and in the cause and prevention of disease." -Thomas Edison, Inventor.
For the handloom business, this could be the chance to recover its grandness. Aside from the
therapeutic advantages of the Ayurvastra texture, the Handloom Weavers' Development Society
had started certain trials toward this path and the clever thought of Ayurvedic garments as an

Undertaking was proposed. Usage was endowed to the state division of handlooms and
materials, with help for innovative work. It was as a major aspect of this task the Dravyaguna
Department of the Ayurvedic College takes a shot at making Ayurvastra.
In this study, maternity wear and ayurvastra is connected because pregnancy is the period where
a woman takes care of her body. And also during this stage there are more chances to get
diseases; therefore they should take for their health from the starting stages of their pregnancy.
The pregnant women face some common skin problems due to hormonal changes. Some of the
problems are Stretch mark, Itching, Skin darkening, and Skin dryness, Allergy etc. Based on
these problems herbs with medicinal properties are used for dyeing the fabric. The ayurvastra is a
complete organic and sustainable process which will not give any negative effect on the body of
the wearer.
The data has been collected through Interviews, survey and observation method. A month
clinical testing is done in Pariyaram Medical College to support this study. To understand the
common problems of the pregnant women, information were collected from Dr.Priyaradarshini,
Gynecologist, and Parassinikadavu Ayurveda Medical College and also I had a discussion with
Dr. Rajamma Rajan, Gynecologist, Ashirvad Hospital Kannur. To get a clear idea about the
herbs and its properties I had a discussion with an Ayurveda Physician from whom I had
collected the relevant information regarding each herb. The main process of this project, the
herbal dyeing process was done under the Kairali Export, one of the best herbal dyeing
Company.

The main herbs used for dyeing the fabrics are Aloe vera, Turmeric, Neem, Lemon. With these
herbs 4 to 5 herbs are used to prepare the kashayam. These herbs have medicinal properties
which can give relief to the wearer when it comes in contact with the skin.
The main advantage of this research study is developing a healthy garment which can wear
during the pregnancy period. And continued use of toxic chemicals in the textile will pollute the
natural resources affecting the environment. The large use of dyeing chemicals can also affect
the workers and also the working environment. So to avoid this condition, this herbal dyeing
method is a best way to dye the fabrics, thus reducing the damage to our mother earth. Another
thing is that through this project awareness among the people can be created to educate the
people to know the need and importance of a healthy organic fabric. This project can also bring
new job opportunities in the field of Handloom sector thus improving the product range and
marketing demand of Ayurvastra.
The result of the clinical testing is positive. The pregnant women felt comfort and smooth to
their skin by wearing Ayurvastra. And also they were feeling itching free and cool effect by
wearing it. This can be a best choice to wear it during the summer season because of the
kashayam prepared for dyeing the fabrics can give cooling effect to the wearer.

1.2 COMPANY PROFILE
Company name - Kairali Exports (Ayurvastra)
Business area – Dyeing, Processing, Garmenting wellness (Ayurvedic) fabrics weaved, dyed
organically.
Location - Balaramapuram, Trivandrum.
Address - S N Lace Building First floor,
Sabari super Bazar,
Balaramapuram Main Rd,
Balaramapuram, Kerala 695501.
Research Center - Ayurvedic Herbal Farm and Research Center,
Thailampalayam, Tirupur.

1.3 OBJECTIVE OF THE PROJECT
 To develop a good quality maternity wear with medicinal property.
 To improves health of pregnant women.
 To provide a positive aura to the wearer.
 New area for job opportunity.
1.4 SCOPE OF THE PROJECT
 Though there are maternity wear, people are not getting upto their expectations and
designs.
 Designing healthy clothing which is very important during the pregnancy.
 It will help to improve the handloom sector by bringing more job opportunities in this
area.
 To increase the product range of Ayurvastra.
1.5 PROBLEM STATEMENT
 Wearing comfortable garment may help the pregnant women to maintain a healthy
mental outlook.
 In fact, some current popular maternity style is not completely acceptable by all the
women as it is designed mostly with western cultural styles.
 Though Ayurvastra is a natural fabric, but it is not having great demand in the market.
 Some pregnant women get allergic on some colors.

CHAPTER 2
REVIEW OF LITERATURE

2.1 AYURVASTRA
The utilization of textures and articles of clothing to convey wellbeing arrangements is really an
extremely old idea that goes back to around 5,000 years of age Indian arrangement of Vedic
human services called Ayurvastra where 'Ayur' remains for wellbeing and desire of an extensive
variety of material items 'vastra' remains for apparel. Ayurvastra attire is produced using natural
cotton texture that has been saturated with exceptional herbs and cure for extraordinary
infections relying on the mixes of implanted herbs and oils. Until around 100 years back,
individuals parts of India were utilizing different types of common coloring in which they more
than once dunked garments in an herb based readiness after each wash. The plants were likewise
utilized for shading the texture in light of the fact that the colors were characteristic and poison
free. In this period of advancement and innovation driven circumstances, another idea of creating
wonder textures that contain little bundles of integrity of herbs and oils has been produced. At
the point when these herbs and fundamental interacts with body warmth and wear, they gradually
discharge their aroma and restorative advantages. Materials with multifunctional completes
coolant free antimicrobial completions are utilized keeping in mind the end goal to give solace to
the wearers. Skin can assimilate ecological poisons also it has capacity to retain herbs found in
our characteristic colors. These herbs discharge their restorative characteristics into the body and
fortify the skin's capacity to square and oppose destructive substances
Ayurvastra is an ancient technique which was practiced before the chemicals were invented in
the textile industry. Ayurvastra will help to live a long and disease free life. It is a Sanskrit word,

The word ‘Ayur’ means health or life and ‘vastra’ means cloth or clothing. The fabric is
completely organic, sustainable and biodegradable. Wearing ayurvastra gives a fresh feel to the
wearer. The ayurvastra fabric is made by 100% pure organic cotton, jute, silk and wool. This
fabric is also used for treating various diseases like diabetes, psoriasis, hypertension, asthma and
other skin related problems. The main property of Ayurvastra is to keep the medicinal property
of the fabrics alive on it. The dyeing process of ayurvastra include
A process to remove the impurities and other gum particles present on the fabric by using natural
agents like soap nut solution and sunlight. The fabric is dipped in the soap nut solution for 2 to 3
hours at a controlled temperature followed by washing in clear water and then drying it under
sunlight. Sometimes cow dung or buffalo dung is scouring and bleaching the gray cloth. After
the bleaching process, the fabric or yarn is medicated in medicinal herbs prepared in the form of
kashayam. The fabric is dipped in the kashayam for 2 to 3 hours at a controlled temperature. For
the preparation of kashayam more than 5 to 6 herbs are used which will make the fabric
disinfected.
The next process is to give color to the fabric by using medicinal herbs. Herbs like Tulasi,
Turmeric, Neem, Pomegranate, Myrobalan etc are used to give natural color and feel to the
fabric. The fabric is dipped in this dye bath for a long period of time so that the color will be
fixed on it. A natural color fixing agent is also used in dye bath.
Once the color is fixed on the fabric, it is taken for washing process. Soap nut solution is added
in clean water for washing the fabric so that the extra color on the fabric is removed. The fabric
need to be washed in clean water. After fixing the color, the fabric needs to be dipped in a

Creamish white solution. This solution is a mixture of castor oil, coconut oil which will make the
fabric soft and smooth. Dipping in this for more time will make the fabric’s feel softer and
smoother. And also this softening process has a property to make the fabric feel cool. Finally, the
fabric can be dried in natural sunlight. One thinks that need to be taken care of is that, the fabric
must be dried in the shades to last the natural color on it or else the fabric can be dried in the dark
room.
2.2 MATERNITY WEAR
Maternity clothes are specially designed for the women to wear it during their pregnancy period.
Years before maternity clothes was used to cover the baby bump and chest part of the body and
in today’s world the maternity clothes had become a part of fashion because in recent times, the
women became more conscious about proper fittings and their body shapes. This factor leads to
the market growth of maternity wears across the world. The key factor behind the market growth
of maternity wear is increase in the number of working women. This increased the purchasing
power of pregnant women. The types available in market are tops, nursing wear, night wear,
bottoms. The demand for maternity wear will increase n the coming years because of the
increase in the number of working women.
Ayurvastra is an organic cloth specially treated with medicinal herbs. It is now used for treatment
of diseases such as diabetes, skin infections, hypertension, asthma, rheumatism, etc. Today’s
generation is more health conscious so introducing new garments in Ayurvastra for pregnant
women will have good marketing in Kerala as well as in outside Kerala. Still the world goes
fashionable but at the time of pregnancy most of the people go for old age practices especially

Keralites. Therefore Ayurvastra for pregnant women can be a good fabric to wear during their
pregnancy period which will help them to get some relief from the common pregnancy problems
like Skin dryness, Itching, Skin darkening, Stretch mark. This will help to bring fashion into
Ayurvastra, which can improve the handloom sector in the world of fashion. Many research
studies have proved that wearing ayurvastra will make the wearer feel fresh and healthy.
The traditional method of ayurvedha originated more than 5000 years ago in India. The core
principles of ayurvedha are rooted in the Vedas, an ancient book of Hindus. Its origin is found in
the Atharvaveda. 100 years ago, medicinal herbs were used by the Indian people to dye their
clothes after each wash and this dye was free of toxins and chemicals. The herbal dyeing process
developed through extensive research. The term Ayurvastra is a Sanskrit word, Ayur means life
and Vastra means cloth. Different types of herbs are used to give natural shades to the fabric.
And these medicinal herbs are used based on the requirement of wearer to cure their diseases.
This herbal cloth is used by many Ayurvedha health clinics to treat diseases such as diabetes,
skin infections, eczema, psoriasis, asthma, arthritis, rheumatism, cardiac problems, hypertension,
high blood pressure and other health related health problems. The southernmost state of Kerala is
a hub of medicinal plants used for the ancient system of Ayurvedha, because of its fertile soil and
climate.
Rangari NT et al, (2012) study proved that wearing Ayurvastra helps the people to maintain a
healthy living. Its principle is used to maintain good health and adopt a healthy way of living.
Ayurvastra will increase the marketing of handloom sector which in turn will create an eco-
friendly environment. He also said that this will help to increase the business which can provide

a livelihood for hundreds of people. They also said that using this age old practice will help to
sustain the planet for future generation and also for the present generation without making the
planet harmful thereby protecting it. They clearly explain about the working of ayurvastra that is
the skin acts as a protective barrier and a layer from preventing the outside particles entering into
the body. In the same manner, the skin may absorb the medicinal drugs from the fabric thereby
protecting it from diseases. The most suitable time to wear Ayurvastra clothing is when the body
is at rest or while sleeping. This is because; during this time the body will naturally heal and re-
establish balance.
Rachit Bhatnagar1 and Dr. V.P.Singh (2017) conducted a survey on Ayurvastra where they
clearly explain about the Ayurvastra medicinal properties, principle, manufacturing process. The
main aim of their paper is to bring out the importance of natural dyeing and its medicinal
properties through a fabric named Ayurvastra. People suffering from various skin infections,
hyper tensions, diabetes etc can use this fabric. The concept of Ayurvastra is originated from
Ayurvedha, where herbal drugs are used to cure diseases.
Jyothirmai S1, Sasmita Pan, (2009) stated that Ayurvastra is infused with medicinal herbs to cure
diseases and it is extra smooth and soft which can provide good transpiration which in turn help
in curing many diseases. This fabric can also help in boosting the immunity.” It can also relieve
general body aches, stimulate weight loss, and strengthen the immune system. It can also be used
as energy booster, mood enhancer, for overall well -being, calming, and blood purification and
cooling. “

Ayurvastra had undergone many clinical testing to the effectiveness of it. Many trials had been
done to help those suffering from skin diseases and other health problems like rheumatism and
blood pressure. And all these trials had shown a "marked improvement." The Government of
Kerala had undergone a six-month clinical trial at the Government Ayurveda College in
Thiruvananthapuram on patients suffering from rheumatism, allergy, hypertension, diabetes,
psoriasis and other skin ailments. For this study, they used all clothes, bed linens and mattresses
of the patients completely dyed in Ayurvastra herbs and the walls, floors and ceilings in the
Patient’s room was lined with Ayurvastra coir mats so that the patients were surrounded by
Ayurvastra medicated materials. The improvements in the health of patients suffering from
rheumatism and arthritis are especially interesting because rheumatism and arthritis are not skin
disorders and this indicate that the treatments might have healthy benefits that extend beyond the
periphery of skin problem.
Pregnancy is one of the most exciting times in a woman’s life. Every pregnant women
experience a dramatic body changes during their pregnancy. In many studies women have
reported that pregnancy triggered negative feelings no matter how satisfied they were with their
bodies before pregnancy (Leifer, 1977). In Fairburn and Welch’s (1990) study of 50 pregnant
women, they found that that 40% reported fears about weight gain during pregnancy. With the
wide variety of body shapes and sizes, physical changes occur differently for every pregnant
woman.
The pregnancy usually does not become obvious until about week 20 with the first baby but by
week 14 in subsequent pregnancies (Stone and Eddleman, 2003). These are the reasons behind

the problems of comfort, fit, and sizing of ready-to-wear maternity apparel. Today’s maternity
apparel is stylish and fashionable when compared to the maternity wear in 20 years ago. The
need of consumers to feel better about themselves and their desire to have garments that fit their
body reflects the marketing demand.
A case study on ‘A Pattern Adaptation for Body Changes during Pregnancy conducted by
Myung Hee Sohn (2009) explains about the changes in body measurements and shapes during
pregnancy and to analyze the relationship between these changes and pattern measurements and
shapes. This study understanding of how to fit maternity wear based on the body shape and
measurement changes. This study is also innovative in that it was conducted using advanced 3D
technologies to obtain body measurements related to clothing size and fit changes during
pregnancy.
“In people’s daily life, clothing plays an important role in protecting the human body from
dangers in the environment such as weather, insects, noxious chemicals, weapons and contact
with abrasive substances and other hazards material. How to maximize the health related
function of textile is becoming more important in today’s era. Owing to the rapid development of
novel sciences and technologies, textile materials have also found applications in the cosmetics
field in recent years. A new sector of cosmetic textiles is launched and the textile industry is very
optimistic that these products will open up new target groups and sustainable markets”
(Bhargava and Jahan, 2012).
Despite the fact that the term Cosmetotextile is new however it’s starting point lies in Ayurveda.
Utilizing textures and pieces of clothing to convey wellbeing arrangements is really an extremely

old idea called Ayurvastra. From the old circumstances Ayurvastra were being set up by coloring
of yarn and texture with herbs to get distinctive shades over the texture and diverse impacts on
the skin. There are different fundamental oils which have discovered their place in aromatic
healing, giving skin gleaming, moisturing, invigorating and different health impacts. These oils
are microencapsulated by covering them with a polymeric covering and afterward applying them
on cotton, polypropylene, polyacrylonitrile and polyamide fiber surfaces. The conspicuous basic
oils are lavender oil, thyme oil, sage oil, peppermint oil, eucalyptus oil, chamomile oil and so on.
During pregnancy period there is a great change in the physical appearance of a woman’s body.
The most obvious change is the considerable weight increase, expanded stomach, middle and hip
and limbs thickening. Physical changes prompt the need of a closet changing, especially in the
fourth month of pregnancy. Given these elements the inquiry emerges is to distinguish the
changes of body adaptation and guarantee a greatest solace in creating attire items for this
category. Thoracic zone, stomach region, gluteal territory, femoral region and arm zone. The
greatest change is in the stomach area. Amid pregnancy, particularly in the most recent long
stretches of pregnancy when the body endures the best changes, both as far as conformational
and useful, the primary capacity that must satisfy a specific dress thing of this classification is
comfort. For garments things addressed to pregnant women is important to be given unique
thoughtfulness regarding psycho sensorial and social attributes.
These body changes prompt the need of upgrade designs keeping in mind the end goal to get
garments things which agree to the new compliances. The momentum explore led by INCDTP, is
identified with the analysis of physical changes in the maternity time frame that impacts

configuration designs and to the overhaul of examples utilizing particular calculations for body
compliances amid pregnancy. Changes fit as a fiddle Trimesters of pregnancy are separated into
three phases of three months each. To begin with trimester incorporates the initial 12 weeks after
origination. The second trimester begins from week 13 and keeps going until week 28. Last
quarter starts in week 28 of pregnancy until birth. The pregnant women endure quick changes of
shape and body estimate in a moderately brief timeframe. The main outer physical changes occur
following four months (Gersh, 1981) and are obvious in the abdominal area of the stomach. The
extents of a lady's body before pregnancy and toward the finish of pregnancy endure the best
changes. Amid pregnancy, particularly in the most recent periods of pregnancy when the body
endures the best changes, both as far as conformational and useful, the primary capacity that an
Apparel thing particular to this class must satisfy is comfort. Solace is a pleasant condition of
physical, physiological and mental agreement amongst man and the earth. This goal can to a
great extent be accomplished in the event of dress for pregnant ladies recognizing the
progressions on the body and knowing the conditions of uneasiness that show up with their
establishment. Agreeable wear has 3 segments: thermo comfort, tactile solace and mental solace.
(Gupta, et al 2013) explains about the antimicrobial apparel or functional clothing is a special
and novel idea that is right now developing for the treatment and counteractive action of
different ailments like diabetes, hypertension, skin diseases, hypertension, psoriasis, dermatitis,
asthma, joint pain, stiffness, cardiovascular issues and numerous others. Late investigations have
demonstrated that the texture treated with the home grown concentrates and fundamental oils
build up the capacity to hinder the extensive variety of microorganisms. The home grown
concentrates are connected straight forwardly on to the fabrics by techniques like cushion dry-

cure, small scale exemplification or gum treatment, the fabric is given bactericidal finish. Since
the crude material is acquired from regular assets, it is eco-accommodating having monetary,
social and natural advantages.
Skin is the most secure when left slightest untouched. It additionally require sustenance, rub yet
we have begin utilizing concoction inclined magnificence items which gives a moment sparkle to
the skin yet unfavorably influence it in long run. These items contain blanching specialists,
amino corrosive write hurtful and solid chemicals which is absolutely against the non-
abrasiveness of our skin. Because of all the above issues, individuals confront different skin
issues for which individuals begin utilizing tropical medicines like most regularly individuals
visit skin pros who propose overwhelming anti-microbial, against unfavorably susceptible and
mitigating. In any case, in all actuality, they are not in any way required as they just
overburdened the Liver and specifically influence its working and wellbeing which thus prompts
numerous health issues. As it is examined that skin is the record of body and any skin issue has
it’s connect to an issue inside our body as it were. Thus, best and everlasting treatment for any
issue is to analyze it appropriately so underlying driver can be discovered. On the off chance that
the underlying driver will get settled, the skin related issues will resolve consequently. Ayurveda
has its best arrangement if there should arise an occurrence of any sort of gynecological issues or
clutters which influence our skin. Ayurveda utilizes different time tried restorative herbs to
regard the influenced zones and additionally to give quality to it to its legitimate working. This
will bring about smooth working of the body which closes in solid skin. We should realize that
sound skin gets by in a solid body as it were. Ayurveda gives a few herbs which go about as

healthful supplement for the skin. These herbs makes the skin hydrated, gives basic supplements
and quality to the body cell.

CHAPTER 3
METHODOLOGY

The work plan that was followed for the completion of this project was divided in three parts:
 The Research methods
 Dyeing process
 Clinical Testing
Each of the first two stages involved secondary research initially in order to find out already
research works and how can this research bring useful into today’s world. After the completion
of the secondary research, the dyeing process was done at Kairali Export (Ayurvastra),
Trivandrum.
3.1 RESEARCH OBJECTIVE
To develop a comfortable and a healthy maternity wear for the pregnant women based on their
common skin problems.
3.2 RESEARCH QUESTIONS
1. What are the common problems of pregnant women?
2. What are their requirements on a maternity wear?
3. How can ayurvastra works on the skin?
4. How much this garment can improve the skin of the wearer?
3.3 METHODS OF DATA COLLECTION
The primary research for this study included interviews, survey, questionnaire, and observation
method and the secondary research included reading articles related to maternity wear and

Ayurvastra. First I did a study on Ayurvastra to know more about the Herbal clothing and its
benefits to the wearer. In the second stage Survey method among pregnant women and a study
on Maternity wear was done as a part of primary research. So that I got to know more about their
needs and exceptions regarding a comfortable maternity wear. In the third stage, based on the
secondary and primary data collected, therapeutic garments were made for the pregnant women
and a one month clinical testing is done from Pariyaram Medical College, Kannur.
METHODS
1. Interview Method
2. Survey Method
3. Observation Method
4. Questionnaire
5. Clinical trials and testing method.
The interview method was used for doing this research to collect information regarding the
pregnancy problems and the reasons of it. These informations were collected from expert
Gynecologists of Kannur Medical Colleges. Collecting this information helped me to get a clear
idea on it and how further process can be implemented to this study.
A survey method with 6 pregnant women was done to gather more information directly from
pregnant women and also observation method was done. This research method was used to get a
better knowledge on pregnant women and the pregnancy period. Talking with pregnant women
helped me to understand their problems and their requirements on a healthy fabric.

Some of the questions asked during survey methods are:-
 What are the problems they face during pregnancy?
 Are they using maternity outfit or not?
 If yes, how much comfort ability they feel in maternity garments?
 Do they have any allergic reactions on certain colors?
The observation method was done to collect the informations regarding the behavior of the
pregnant women. This method was done as a part of survey method.
After collecting all relevant information, dyeing process was done using the required medicinal
herbs. Before starting the clinical testing, a trial testing was done with the fabric to test whether
this herbal dyed fabric will cause any problems to the wearer. This test was done by wrapping
the fabric on the hands, legs of the pregnant. After the successful result of this test garment
development was done. The study of documents and records were also included in the data
collection methods.
The final activity of this project was a one month clinical testing of the developed therapeutic
garments. This has been done by distributing the garments to 5 pregnant women to who were
admitted in Pariyaram Medical College due to several health problems. A one week was taken to
get permission from the hospital to do the clinical testing. A protocol and methodology was
submitted to the Gynecology head and to the Principal before starting the clinical testing. And
also a small presentation was given to the respondents (pregnant patients) to make them know
about the Ayurvastra and its herbal dyeing properties on skin.

The clinical testing method was chosen for this project because the developed garments are
therapeutic garments which need to be undergone a clinical testing to get the positive effects on
the skin. This clinical testing can support this study and also helps to know others about the
benefits of an Ayurvastra – A Herbal Dyed Fabric.
The week – wise working details of the whole process has been discussed below:-
1. Week 1: 15/01/18 to 20/01/18
As mentioned earlier, the initial days of the research were occupied with secondary
research. The first week went to Kairali Export (Ayurvastra) showroom in
Balaramapuram, Trivandrum and got to know about the product range of the company
and also collected information about the company. Read the magazines and newspaper
where their projects got published. Various research papers on Ayurvastra were read,
along with important topics such as the Ayurvedic Textiles, Experiments on Ayurvastra,
Need for eco - friendly textiles, Ayurvastra - The fabrics which heels, Ayurvedic
Textiles: A wonderful approach to handle health disorders, Ayurvastra or herbal couture
takes rapid strides, Ayurvastra - A fabric for natural healing. The week was spent
gathering secondary data about the Ayurvastra and its medicinal properties, the demand
of ayurvastra, the working principle behind it and the more sustainable aspects of
Ayurvastra.
2. Week 2: 23/01/18 to 27/01/18
The research got narrower in the second week, focusing on the medicinal effect of
ayurvastra, present status and customer’s buying behavior of Ayurvastra. Had a

discussion with the gynecologist about the pregnant women's problems, stages of
pregnancy, body shapes and changes. The main problems listed were body pain, skin
darkening, stretch mark, and dryness, allergies / Itching. Informations were collected
from the online maternity stores about the styles, designs, colors of a maternity wear.
Two days workshop was attended by Ayurtex (Kairali Export) at their Ayurvedic Textile
Research Center, Tirupur, and Tamilnadu.) The workshop was about the Ayurvedic
Textile and its origin, theory of natural dyeing and Ayurvedic dyeing, the theory of dye
preparation. The second day of workshop included demo of Ayurvedic dyeing. The main
of this week’s research was to gain knowledge on the present status of Ayurvastra,
common problems of pregnant women, their body shapes and changes, herbal benefits.
3. Week 3: 29/ 01/2018 – 3/02/2018
The third week of the research was about the detail research on the maternal problems
and for that visited Parssinikadav Ayurvedha Hospital and had a discussion about the
maternal health conditions and diseases of pregnancy. Studied about the pregnancy
treatment in Ayurvedha (mainly skin related problems) like dryness, rashes/itching, dark
patches, sun damages and the medicinal herbs like: - Amla juice have a property to boosts
immunity of skin and prevents pimples and acnes. Aloe Vera has anti-inflammatory
properties that can reduce skin inflammation. Turmeric which can nourishes the skin and
gives healthy and natural glowing. Sandal wood can cure and relieve many ailments and
skin diseases. Marigold has antiviral and antibacterial properties.
Flaxseed can cure diseases like psoriasis, eczema. Tulasi is helpful to treat many skin
diseases. Saffron helps in skin glowing and reduces dark pigments. Azadirachta indica/

Neem can reduce itching, irritation, skin roughness and cures psoriasis patches. Other
activities done in this week were study and discussion based on Ayurvastra working
principle on the skin, the feel of the skin after wearing an Ayurvastra, the methods to treat
fabric with a pleasant aroma. Discussion with an Ayurvedic Physician was also done to
know about the medicinal herbs and treatment available in Ayurvedha - the medicinal
herbs, ingredients and its benefits, the direction of usage and how to apply it on the skin,
therapeutic indications of some thailams namely Kumkumadi and Nalpamaradi thailams.
4. Week 4: 5/ 02/2018 – 10/02/2018
The secondary research on the clothing style of pregnant women was studied in this
week. Visited Parssinikadav Hospital to know the basic concept of Ayurvedha i.e.; 3
doshas namely Vata, Pitta, Kapha. These 3 doshas helps in performing various functions
of the body. An analysis on the clothing style of pregnant women was done and the
findings were - During the fourth month of pregnancy the pregnant women will notice the
body changes mainly in the abdominal region, torso, hips, and limbs thickening; loose
clothes are suggested to wear during pregnancy period; they feel warmer during the
pregnancy period and lighter weight fabrics are more comfortable. Better to avoid
garments like belts, knee socks, stockings, innerwear etc. A good maternity wear must be
a comfortable wear with the Thermo comfort - to determine the interaction between the
body- clothes- environment. Sensory comfort - like soft, velvet, silk etc. Psychological
comfort - defines the mental state of the wearer like style, purpose etc .And at last, it must
be a comfortable in dressing and undressing with a system for fitting and adjustment

according to changes in conformations. Read a paper about the ‘Maternity dress designs
with selected expandable features where the purpose of this study was to develop
comfortable, expandable maternity garments. The needs, concerns and problems of
pregnant women when using maternity support garments were also included in the study.
From this study it was clear about the need of a healthy maternity wear because 60% of
pregnant women discontinued using maternity support garment because of itching, over
heat, discomfort, excessive pressure around the abdomen.
The last days of this week was carried out with personal interviews with 5 pregnant
women and the questions asked were about their problems, physical conditions, their
requirements and needs of maternity wear. The main problems they are facing were body
pains, dryness, and stretch marks, itching, and vomiting. Inorder to get some relief from
these problems they sometimes takes medicines and use natural oils on their body to
avoid dryness. The three pregnant women are having vomiting and itching problems.
They use hot water with neem leaves to get free from diseases said by one of the
respondent.
5. Week 5: 12/ 02/2018 – 16/02/2018
This week was spent by collecting information related medicinal herbs and the properties.
For this did a study on the herbs and the shades for preparing the herb list. Herbs like
Turmeric, Tulasi, Indigo, Kumkum/Madder, Triphala, Sappan Tree, and Karungali
(botanical name – Acacia, Vettiver/Velam, and Neem are used by Ayurvastra to get

shades on the fabric. These shades will be different depending on the herbs ratio, season,
region and climatic conditions. Read a research paper ‘Functional Clothing: A Novel
Concept for Disease Therapeutics’ to know the natural antimicrobial clothing concept
currently emerging for the treatment and prevention of various diseases like diabetes,
hypertension, skin infections, high blood pressure, psoriasis, eczema, asthma, arthritis,
rheumatism. The last day was carried out with discussion with a skin specialist where the
common skin problems in pregnancy like dark blotches on the skin, dryness, rashes,
stretch marks, sun sensitivity were discussed. To get a clear idea on the maternity wear
and the design collections available in the market, I had visited Ziva Maternity store in
Calicut. The important factors about their design collections are-: Comfort, style with
careful construction. They follow a standardized sizing of different pregnant women
where necessary alterations can be made if required. The bottoms of the garment are
made with flexible waist bands so that it can be worn during both pregnancy and nursing
period. Designs details and functionality are also added to their styles.
6. Week 6: 19/ 02/2018 – 24/02/2018
In this week the herb list was finalized based after a clear discussion with an Ayurvedha
Physician. A softener was tried preparing to give perfect finish to the fabric. The
ingredients used are natural coconut oil, natural castor oil, Aloe Vera gel (made into a
paste), and natural fixatives. This was made to test how much smooth finish this softener
can give to the fabric. The Aloe Vera gel is used to give a cooling effect to the skin. This
softener will not change the shade of the dyed fabric. The color of the prepared softener

is creamish white. As the ingredients used for the preparation of softener are completely
natural, it will not give any reaction on the skin so it is safe to use this softener.
Prepared softener Softening solution

Final herb list prepared for the garment production based on the common skin problems of the
pregnant women are the following:-
Pregnancy Problems Main Herbs & Ingredients Medicinal Property
3 types of Turmeric (Kasthuri Anti-inflammatory effects and is a very
manjal, Virali manjal, Gundu strong antioxidant.
Skin Darkening/dark Manjal/Nattu Manjal), Helps in disappearance of skin
patches on the body. Myrobalan, Pomegranate darkening and providing skin glow.
peel, Aavaram flower.
Neem leaves, Bark of neem It softens, moisturizes, and protects the
Allergy/Itching tree, Manjista (Madder), skin and also will give a deodorant
Myrobalan. effect to the fabric.
Aloe vera, Triphala extracts Anti – oxidants property.
Skin Dryness (Tandrika, Nelikka, Kadka Helps in moisturizing the skin, keeps
(Myrobalan)), Pomegranate. the skin hydrated, rejuvenated and
glowing.
Lemon, Alum, Kadka (sea As it is rich in Vitamin c, it has the
Stretch Marks shell), citrus extracts, ability to relieve nausea, nourishes skin,
Ashwagandha. reduce skin burning sensation.

This week also included the design development of maternity wear. A-like design maternity
gown was designed which raises the position of waist line can be worn during the middle period
of pregnancy, as this is the period where great changes happen in a pregnant woman’s body. Zip
fastener is designed on the front of the top for easy convenience to wear and remove the garment.
Extra frillings is also added on the yoke part to make a covering on the body. For the better
understandings of the aroma, a study on the aroma was done based on the skin types like Vata,
Pita, Kapha, the aromas can be used on the Ayurvastra. The main aroma used in Ayurvastra is
turmeric extract as it is having a property to nourish the skin. There are aromas which provide
skin glowing, moisturing, refreshing and other wellness effects which are used by various
Ayurvedic physicians to treat disorders. These aromas are powerful, because the sense of smell
provides the quickest and easiest pathway to the brain. It is believed that inhaling certain aromas
can balance doshas, reduce stress and promote overall healing. The aromas that are considered
safe during pregnancy are citrus fruit, grapefruit, rose, lavender and jasmine.
7. Week 7: 26/ 02/2018 – 3/03/2018
This week was spent in preparing the questionnaire on maternity wear and the design
development of the final therapeutic garments were designed based on the pregnant
women interest.
8. Week 8: 5/ 03/2018 – 10/03/2018
This week spent was spent in Tirupur Ayurvedic Herbal Farm and Research Center.
Discussed about the type and the quantity of the fabrics required for dyeing. Herbs

required for the dyeing was prepared. Herbal garden and dying unit of Ayurvastra was
visited. On the second day of visit Neem dyeing was done followed by the required
process. And in coming days, dyeing of aloe vera and lemon was done. During the dyeing
process got clear idea about the quantity of herbs used and learned about the complete
process involved in the herbal dyeing of the fabric. All the dyed fabric was given the
finishing treatment and dried in the light sunshade.
9. Week 9: 12/ 03/2018 – 17/03/2018
The first two days of this week was spent in dyeing the fabric with turmeric herbs. Doing
softening on Aloe Vera and lemon dyed fabric. The next days were followed by the
finishing process on all the dyed fabric by sprinkling pure water and then stretching it
under pressure. In this week, testing of the Aloe Vera dyed fabric was also done on a
pregnant woman who had skin drying problem. The fabric was tied on her leg to do the
testing. The turmeric dyed fabric was given to a pregnant woman with dark patches on
her body as it can reduce the darkening of the skin and can improve the skin complexion.
The compilation of the collected data was done for the midterm jury.
10. Week 11: 26/ 03/2018 – 31/03/2018
This week started with the garment production followed with the prepared designs.
Visited Pariyaram Medical College to discuss about the clinical testing and its
procedures. The observation of the trial clinical testing (completed 15 days observation)

was also taken during this week .The pregnant woman said that she feels some relaxation
from itching after using this fabric on the areas where she feels dryness.
11. Week 12: 2/ 04/2018 – 7/04/2018
Visited Pariyaram Medical College and Pariyaram Ayurvedic Medical College to discuss
about the clinical testing. Had a discussion with the Medical College Principal, Vice
Principal and Gynecology department HOD regarding the Clinical Testing. There were
many procedures to be done before starting a clinical testing. The first plan was to do the
clinical testing in an Ayurveda Hospital but due to lack of pregnant patients admitted in
the hospitals, went to Pariyaram Medical College to get permission to do the clinical
testing of the developed therapeutic garments.
Total 5 sets of garments were developed for the clinical testing. For this, first had a
discussion with the Gynecology Department Head Dr. Ajith through Nursing
Superintendent and got permission to do the clinical testing at Pariyaram Medical
College. A protocol and methodology was submitted to the Vice-principal and then to
Managing Director and explained about the Ayurvastra and its herbal properties to the
pregnant patients. While discussing about the clinical testing, got an idea about the
clinical research protocol and had an observation with the pregnant patients admitted in
the hospitals due to variation in blood pressure and sugar level and other health problems.
After getting permission to do the clinical testing, a small presentation was given about
Ayurvastra to the pregnant patients to make them know about the medicinal quality of
Ayurvastra.

12. Week 13: 9/ 04/2018 – 14/04/2018
Doing works related to Clinical Testing at Pariyaram Medical College and observed the
pregnant patients to whom the developed therapeutic garments were given.
13. Week 14: 16/ 04/2018 – 21/04/2018
Doing works related to Clinical Testing and taking the observation report of the clinical
testing. The observational report of the clinical testing was collected with 3-4 days gap.
Individually the details were collected from the patients regarding the Ayurvastra
maternity wear.
14. Week 15: 23/ 04/2018 – 28/04/2018
Clinical testing related works and started preparing the documents for the internal jury.
According to the discussion with the mentor, the document preparation for the jury was
started, including the drafting of the documents such as preface, acknowledgement, and
chapters on preliminary information. The observation report of the clinical testing was
taken till 7th May.

EXPERIMENTAL METHOD
1. For developing the Ayurvastra for the pregnant women two experiments has been
done to test the effect of particular herbs on the skin. The experiment done was
preparing the softener which can give an antibacterial finish to the garment. For
preparing the softener, the ingredients used are castor oil, coconut oil, natural fixative,
and aloe vera gel. This was done with the help a Vaidyan (Ayurvedha Physician). A
piece of fabric was dipped in the prepared softener solution for 2 days to test its
effect.
Result
The fabric had a cooling effect and was tested by wrapping the fabric on the pregnant
woman’s body.
Prepared softener

2. As the garments are for pregnant women, it must have the property to make the
wearer feel cool. Due to hormonal changes in the body, the pregnant women body
feels hot so to avoid this problem, an experiment was done on the fabric to test which
herbs can be used to give the cooling effect. For this, Vettiver roots were used and
dipped in the solution of Vettiver. After treating the dyed fabric with the above
experiments, the finishing method can be done which will help to last the dyed
medicinal properties of the fabrics.
Result
The fabric was dipped into the prepared vetiver solution for one week. And after
drying it, the cooling of the fabric can be felt. When compared to the chemical dyed
fabrics, one can feel the difference between herbal dyed cloth and the chemical dyed
cloth.

Fabric dipped in vetiver solution

METHODS OF DYEING AND FABRIC PRODUCTION
The herbal dyeing process of the fabric will be different based on company’s
background. The detail explanation of the dyeing process of Kairali Exports
(Ayurvastra) is discussed below.
Turmeric Dyeing
1. First do the RFD technique to make the fabric free from impurities and by doing
this technique, the extra particles on the fabric are removed. I had used 6 meters
for doing each herbal dyeing.
2. First 60 liters water was boiled by adding 3litres of soap nut solution into it and
this process is called as Ready for Dyeing technique (RFD).
3. After 15 minutes dip the fabric in this solution and boil it for 1one hour at a
temperature of 70 – 80 degree celcius. Then add 2 liters of ash water into the
container.
[Note: The soap nut solution is added to remove the impurities, gum particles
present on the fabric.]
4. After that mix the fabric well into the boiling water and heat it uniformly to avoid
the color patches on the fabric. After half an hour, wash the fabric in cold water to
remove the impurities.
5. The next step is to add the prepared kashayam into the container and boil it for 2
hours. For preparing the kashayam mix 3 types of Turmeric (Kasthuri manjal,

Virali manjal, Gundu manjal). The kashayam ingredients are Myrobalan (250 g),
Pomegranate (200 g), and Turmeric (50 g).
Herbs for the preparation of kashayam
6. The prepared kashayam need to be filtered before dipping the fabric into it. Then
the fabric needs to be washed twice to remove the excessive colors present on it.
7. In the final wash the soap nut is added to give a neat and smooth finish to the
fabric. This finishing gives an antibacterial finish to the fabric. Last process is to
do steaming on the fabric which will be done by spraying water on the fabric.

Turmeric dyeing
Softening treatment

Final wash

Aloe vera dyeing
this technique, the extra particles on the fabric are removed. 60 liters of water was
boiled and 3litres of soap nut solutions is added into it and this process is called as
Ready for Dyeing technique (RFD) ie; the method of removing the impurities
from the gray cloth and preparing it for herbal dyeing.
2. After 15 minutes dip the fabric in this solution and boil it for one hour and add 2
liters of ash water into the container.
3. After that mix the fabric well into the boiling water and heat it uniformly.
hours at a temperature of 70- 80 degree Celsius. For preparing the kashayam use
aloe vera, Triphala extracts (Tandrika, Nelikka, and Kadka) and Pomegranate.
The prepared kashayam need to be filtered before dipping the fabric into it. Then
Preparation of Aloe vera kashayam

5. In the final wash, the soap nut is added to give a neat and smooth finish to the
fabric. This finishing gives an antibacterial finish to the fabric.
6. Last process is to give steaming on the fabric which will be done by spraying
water on the fabric.
Extracts of Aloe vera

Neem Dyeing
this technique, the extra impurities on the fabric are removed
2. First water is boiled by adding soap nut solution into it.
3. After 15 minutes dip the fabric in this solution and boil it for one hour. Then add
2 liters of ash water into the container.
4. After that mix the fabric well into the boiling water and heat.
hours. The fabric need to be stir uniformly to avoid color patches. For preparing
the kashayam use neem leaves, bark of neem tree, Manjista (Madder), Myrobalan.
The prepared kashayam need to be filtered before dipping the fabric into it. Then
Myrobalan Powder

Neem Kashayam
7. Last process is to give steaming on the fabric which will be done by spraying
water on the fabric.

Lemon Dyeing
this technique, the extra particles on the fabric are removed. I had used 6 meters
for doing each herbal dyeing.
2. First 60 liters of water was boiled by adding 3l of soap nut solution into it and
this process is called as Ready for Dyeing technique (RFD).
3. After 15 minutes dip the fabric in this solution and boil it for one hour. Then add
2 liters of ash water into the container.
hours. For preparing the kashayam the ingredients used lemon extracts, Orange
dried peel, sea shell, alum. The alum is used to give shade to the fabric and sea
shell is to give smoothness to the fabric. Then the fabric needs to be washed twice
to remove the excessive colors present on it.
Sea shell solution

Alum
6. Steaming on the fabric is done by spraying water on the fabric to last the
medicinal property.
Lemon Dyeing

Main Herb used Shade& Fabric Botanical Name
Yellow Curcuma
Turmeric longa/Tecoma
stans/Allium cepia
Khaki
Aloe vera Aloe Barbadensis
White
Lemon Citrus lemon
Ivory
Neem Azardirachta indica
Table showing the details of herbs used and prepared shades.

CLINICAL TESTING
The clinical testing of the garment was done in Pariyaram Medical College, Kannur. A month
clinical testing was done with the pregnant patients admitted in the hospital. The patients were in
between 7 – 8 months of pregnancy. The clinical testing was done under the guidance of Dr.
Ajith Kumar, the Head of Gynecology Department.
For doing the clinical testing, first the research topic was discussed with Dr.Ajith Kumar. After
that the protocol and methodology of the research was submitted to the Principal and then
forwarded to the Director of the hospital. After getting approval from the Director, it was send to
the Medical Superintendent for further reference. It took complete one week to get permission
from the hospital.
After getting approval for doing the clinical testing, a small presentation was given to the
pregnant patients about Ayurvastra, its process and medicinal properties. And after getting the
patients permission the clinical testing was started. Simple maternity gown was designed for the
patients and the developed garments were distributed to the patients. The observation was done
between 3-4 days with the permission of the Nursing Superintend.
The patient’s responses to the garments were positive. They said that they are feeling relief from
Itching, Dryness, and they don’t get bad smell after sweating. They also added that they feel cool
in this summer season when compared to their normal dresses. They felt the smooth feel to their
skin by wearing the Ayurvastra gown specially designed for the pregnant patients.

Clinical Photo shoots

CLINICAL TESTING OF THE PREVIOUS STUDIES
Two studies are already completed on ayurvastra effects on human; both this study gave positive
results. It is reported in website of Vastra and TIME magazine that the researchers in the
Department of Pharmacology at the Government Ayurvedha College (GAC) in Kerala found that
the patients who used beds, rugs, and towels dyed with the herbal medicines is effective to the
patients suffering from skin infections like psoriasis, eczema, and rheumatism. A study was
conducted by the Kerala’s Ministry of Health on the effects of herbal dyed clothing on patients
with various diseases. The room was replaced with Ayurvastra textiles like bed sheet even
ceilings. The result of this study showed that the symptoms of the patients improved.

CHAPTER 4 – DATA ANALYSIS AND RESULTS

QUESTIONNAIRE
The majority of the respondents participated in this online survey were in between 23 – 29 years
old.
54.2% of them were pregnant and 29.2% were planning pregnancy in the future.16. 7% were
mothers.

33.3% of the respondents were 3 months pregnant and few were mothers.
33.3% of the women are looking for comfort and fit. 62.5% of the respondents are looking for
quality garment.

54.2% of the respondents like to wear/buy/ used a maternity night wear. 29.2% like maternity
tops. 4.2% of the respondents like other dresses.
75% of the respondents are not satisfies with the existing maternity designs.

87.5% of the respondents prefer a maternity wear with functionality. 12.5% fashionable
maternity wear.
91.7% of the respondents like light shaded maternity wear. 8.3% prefer dark shades.

83.3% of the respondents are ready to buy herbal dyed maternity wear. 16.7% responded to may
be option.
58.3% are using maternity wear to flatter their body shape. 33.3% respondents want to cover
their womb.

This questionnaire is developed to get an idea to before developing ayurvastra garment. The
pregnant women responded for the prepared questionnaire was interested in maternity night wear
and the first preference they are looking is for comfort and quality garment. And also they are
ready to buy a healthy garment like Ayurvastra to lead a healthy life.

4.1 CLINICAL TESTING RESULTS
1. The patient felt comfort in the garment.
2. They said that they didn’t feel any itching.
3. They were getting cooling effect when compared to the normal dressing they used to
wear.
4. They felt the fabric very smooth to their skin.
5. The garment was of good quality and smooth texture.
6. The patients who wore this garment were happy with the new therapeutic garments.
7. They didn’t get any skin reaction or allergy by wearing this therapeutic ayurvastra.

4.2 LIMITATIONS & FUTURE SCOPE OF PROJECT
Project carried out has many positive aspects, but at the same time there are also certain
shortcomings in the project, which can be accounted to factors such as resources, time constraint,
hospital’s demand and company’s policy. This project also has been carried out to meet
successfully the objectives set, but there are certain aspects where there has been some sort of
shortcomings.
Limitation of project:
1. Only simple style is used in developing the garment.
2. Extra details of some herbs cannot be mentioned or shared due to company’s demand.
4. Proper observation and presentation was required for pregnant women to make them
understand about the Ayurvastra.
5. During the clinical testing of the garment, it took time to get permissions from the patients and
their relatives.
Future Scope of Project:
1. This project can improve the handloom sector of Kerala by bringing more job opportunities in
this area.
2. This project can be used for the reference purpose to understand the medicinal property of
Ayurvastra.

CHAPTER 5
DISCUSSION

This section contains the results of the study and their discussion. The observations made in the
survey to find out the problems of the pregnant women design features and comforts of the
pregnant women. The one month clinical testing is done to support this study and got successful
and positive feedback from the patients.
The interview was the first method used for doing this research, through which relevant
informations were collected from the gynecologists about the common problems of pregnancy
and informations related to the body changes and the reasons for their problem were also
collected. The interview sessions with the gynecologists helped to get clear idea before starting
this study.
As the patients felt good comfort and feel in these developed therapeutic garments, this can be a
better option for them to wear in summer season. The period of clinical testing was done during
summer season, and the patients said that they feel cool in the Ayurvastra when compared to
other dresses. And also this garment is allergic free because the process involved in the making
of ayurvastra is completely organic and also it is a sustainable process.
Our world is getting harmful day by day with the use of large amount of chemicals used in
various industries especially Textile Industry. So we can bring eco friendly products into the
textile field, we can save our present and future planet without making it harmful to the society.
Ayurvastra can be called as an organic, biodegradable, sustainable process because nothing is
going to harm the environment and also no products are wasted. The left out products of
Ayurvastra like the kashayam etc can be used as manures. Therefore this study can be used to
bring sustainable aspect into this world by creating new job opportunities for the coming

generations. One thing which needs to keep in mind is that, the product range of Ayurvastra is
very limited and this handloom sector is not getting high marketing, so this project will also help
to work for the betterment of handloom sector.
This study on “Effectiveness of Ayurvastra Maternity Wear on Pregnant Women” can be
applied practically because of the following:-
 Eco – Friendly.
 Developing organic medicinal fabric.
 Sustainable process.
 Complete chemical free process.
 New job opportunities.
 Improving the product range of Ayurvastra.
 Healthy fabric for the pregnant women.

CHAPTER 6
CONCLUSION

Ayurvastra is an eco friendly fabric which provides a healthy living. This fabric is truly
chemical- free, naturally dyed featuring organic cotton and colors made from medicinally rich
botanicals and herbs. Developing new designs in ayurvastra can increase its product range as
well as awareness among the Indian people. Ayurvastra can be a perfect garment during
pregnancy period as it is effective to give relief from the common skin problems of pregnancy. It
will increase business of handloom sector that results in a stable economy providing a livelihood
for hundreds of people.
Thus, Ayurvastra direct us to a new way of living a natural, healthy and a disease free life.

REFERENCES

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APPENDICES

WORKSHOP CERTIFICATE

CERTIFICATE OF CLINICAL TESTING

PHOTOGRAPHS
WEAVING PROCESS OF AYURVASTRA
Following are the photographs taken during the workshop time.

Medicinal Herbs
Sena Flower (Aavaram poo) Reetha (Soap nut) Myrobalan
Triphala powder Pomegranate dried peel

Clinical Testing
Pariyaram Medical College
Maternity Ward

Details of the clinical testing patients (pregnant women)
Name Pregnancy month Place
Anu 8 months Iritty
Saumya 8 months Kanjangad
Sruthi 9 months Pappinisseri
Nousha 8 months Srikandapuram
Vidhya 7 months Pariyaram


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EFFECTIVENESS OF AYURVASTRA MATERNITY

WEAR ON PREGNANT WOMEN

Submitted to National Institute of Fashion Technology – Kannur in Partial

Fulfillment for the award of Degree of

DEPARTMENT OF DESIGN SPACE

Design Space Department

This dissertation titled _________________________________________________

________________ submitted by _________________________ to NIFT – Kannur in

The following members of jury it is worth of acceptance:

Name Institute/ Organization Signature & Date

_____________________ _____________________ _____________________

_____________________ _____________________ _____________________

_____________________ ____________________ _____________________

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_____________________ _____________________ _____________________

Remarks regarding fulfilling requirements, if any:

Signature of CC - Design Space

2 © 2018 National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT)

I declare that the thesis entitled “EFFECTIVENESS OF AYURVASTRA MATERNITY WEAR

ON PREGNANT WOMEN” is a record of original research work undertaken by me for the

ANSAR, Associate Professor, MASTER OF DESIGN, National Institute of Fashion

no plagiarism in any part of the dissertation.

Place: Kannur Signature of the candidate

Date: Name: Thushara MK

Reg No. MD/16/155

National Institute of Fashion Technology

4 © 2018 National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT)

This is to certify that the thesis submitted by THUSHARA MK (Reg.No.MD/16/155), entitled

“EFFECTIVENESS OF AYURVASTRA MATERNITY WEAR ON PREGNANT WOMEN” in

Place: Kannur Signature of the Mentor

Date MOHAMMED ANSAR

National Institute of Fashion Technology

5 © 2018 National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT)

improve the handloom sector in the world of fashion.

6 © 2018 National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT)

Ayurvastra, Maternity wear, Pregnancy problems, Herbal dyeing, Therapeutic garments.

7 © 2018 National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT)

helped me during this period.

throughout this project.

I would also like to thank Dr.Priyadarshini (Gynecologist, Parassinikadavu Ayurvedha

and their problems.

me directly or indirectly through their valuable suggestions.

8 © 2018 National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT)

9 © 2018 National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT)

SERIAL NO CHAPTERS PAGE NO

1 1.2 COMPANY PROFILE 21

1.4 SCOPE OF THE PROJECT 21

1.5 PROBLEM STATEMENT

2.2 MATERNITY WEAR 23

2.3 REVIEW OF LITERATURE 24

10 © 2018 National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT)

3.2 RESEARCH OBJECTIVE 33

3.3 RESEARCH QUESTION 33

3 3.4 METHODS OF DATA COLLECTION 33

ii. Survey & Observation method 34

iii. Experimental method

iv. Clinical trials & Testing 47

METHODS OF DYEING & FABRIC 50

4 i. Aloe Vera dyeing 54

ii. Neem dyeing 56

iii. Lemon Dyeing 58

iv. Turmeric dyeing

5 CLINICAL TESTINGS &PREVIOUS 60

11 © 2018 National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT)

4.2 LIMITATIONS & FUTURE SCOPE

12 © 2018 National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT)

submitted by _________ to NIFT – Kannur in

___________ _ ___________

___________ _ ___________

_ _

___________ _ ___________

___________ _ ___________