4 Common Refrigerator Compressor

Problems

problems can be a huge pain.

Refrigerator compressor

Sometimes it’s hard to detect these problems

early enough and you only figure out that
something is wrong when your fridge stops
working. However, experts suggest that if you
know what some symptoms might be, you
can definitely solve problems before they
damage the entire system. A new fridge
should not have such problems, but if you
have had your fridge for more than five
years, you should be a little cautious. Here is
a short list of the most common refrigerator
compressor problems that might occur.
1. Refrigerator Compressor Fan Stops

The refrigerator compressor fan is an

indispensable part of the system; you
probably know that whenever you have any
electric or electronic machine that works on a
processor, the fan is necessary to cool the
system down and prevent problems such as
overheating. If the fan stops, you will feel it
and the refrigerator will make some funny
noises. This is not a problem you can fix on
your own, so you need to call a fridge
technician or an electrician who knows how
to replace fans.
2. Compressor Clicks On and Off

If you see that your compressor clicks on and

off, or doesn’t run at all, you should check if
there is a start relay problem. It could also
mean that there is some sort of compressor
overload. This needs to be checked because
the compressor might easily burst if not
properly taken care of. You can check it with
an amp meter or, again, call someone with
experience in electric devices and home
appliances. But this doesn’t mean that you
will need to pay lots of money. In most cases a
dirty relay can cause such problems;
therefore, it only requires cleaning and
proper maintenance.
3. Fridge Not Cool Enough

One of the best indications that there is

something wrong with the compressor is that
the fridge is not cool enough, or that some
areas of the fridge are less cool than they
used to be. Testing the compressor motor will
give you a hint about what is happening. How
can you test it? It is not hard, but you need to
unplug the fridge and access it from the back.
However, since most compressors have a
capacitor, it is recommended to let an
experienced person do this job.
If the fridge doesn’t keep a cool temperature,
you should know that there could be four or
five different possible problems, not
necessarily related to the compressor.
4. Noisy Compressor

This is a rather common problem. The

compressor is typically silent in most modern
fridges, so if it makes a noise, it’s obviously
not a good sign. You’ll need to check where
the noise is coming from first. If it’s the
compressor itself, it might be already too late.
Usually a noisy compressor is a bad
compressor, so you will probably need to replace
it immediately. Keep in mind that the

compressor is the device that handles the gas

and pressure inside the fridge, so noise might
be associated with high pressure and bad gas
maintenance.
How to Install a Refrigerator Compressor
How to Install a Refrigerator Compressor

What You'll Need

 New fridge compressor
 Pliers
 Screwdriver
 Working gloves
 Refrigerant
A refrigerator compressor is one of the most
important parts of a fridge because it
compresses the refrigerant, which helps keep
your food cool. While a bad fridge seal and other
issues can cause your fridge's food to get
warm and spoil, so can a damaged or worn-
out compressor. If your fridge isn’t keeping
your food cold, install a new compressor with
the proper preparation and skills found
below.
Preparing

Step 1 – Unplug the Unit

Before starting the installation process,

unplug the unit from the power supply. This
step is important, so that you don’t shock
yourself. Then, remove the contents of the
fridge and put them in another fridge or
icebox temporarily.
Step 2 – Locate the Old Compressor

Next, locate the old compressor. Usually, it’s

located at the bottom of the fridge and can be
accessed from the back of the unit. It’s
cylindrical, and a metal guard is usually
hiding it. Use a screwdriver, if necessary, to
remove the guard and expose the compressor.
Step 3 – Remove the Old Part

Inspect the compressor to check if it has a

capacitor. A capacitor looks like a large box,
and it’s directly connected to the compressor
to provide starting power, much like a
battery.
Detach the wiring and the valves on the old
compressor from the capacitor to remove it
from its spot. Uninstall any mounting
hardware. Then, purchase a new compressor
with the same model to ensure an exact fit. If
you search for a new compressor and it’s
more expensive than purchasing a new
fridge, you should buy a new fridge, instead.
New refrigerators may be more efficient than
an older unit with a new compressor.
Installing

Step 1 – Connect the Capacitor

Connect the capacitor to the new compressor
following the correct wiring code as provided
by your manufacturer.
Step 2 – Add Refrigerant

Refrigerant makes the compressor work. If

the refrigerator is an older unit, you will need
to add more R22 refrigerant. If it is new, then
you will need R404c refrigerant, unless the
manufacturer recommends a different kind.
Before charging the unit with a refrigerant,
you need to pull a vacuum. To do this and
add refrigerant, follow all directions as
provided by your fridge's manufacturer. It’s
important that you follow all directions
carefully and wear safety gloves when
completing this step, as refrigerant is an
ozone-depleting chemical. If you’re unsure
about how to proceed, call a professional for
help.
In addition, ensure your fridge isn't leaking
any of this refrigerant. If it is, fix the issue before replacing
it.
Step 3 – Connect the Valves

Afterward, check the valves on the

refrigerator and connect them to the
compressor. Since fridges come with different
compressors, make sure to follow the valve
and wiring diagram provided by the
manufacturer when installing the new
compressor.
Step 4 – Test the Unit

After the wiring and valves have been

connected, put the metal guard back and test
the unit to see if it works.

Air Conditioning System Configurations

in the previous topics which are as follows:

 Heating Systems Types - Part One

 Heating Systems Types -Part Two

I explained the different types of the Heating systems and today I will begin explaining the
Air Conditioning Systems as follows.
You can review the previous topic, “Electrical Load Classification and Types” for more
information and good following.

Air Conditioning System Configurations

The air-conditioning components and equipments may be designed and assembled in

hundred different ways but in practice these are broadly classified into three categories:

1- Decentralized Systems (Individual Room Systems): This can be divided to three major
types as follows:

 Mini-Split Cooling Units (ductless split Units).

 Window Units.
 Mini- Heat Pump.

2- Semi- centralized systems (packaged systems): This can be divided to two major
types as follows:

 One piece systems (Unitary Packaged Systems):

1. Packaged Air Conditioners with Water Cooled Condenser.

2. Packaged Air Conditioners with Air Cooled Condensers.

 Two pieces systems (ducted Split system).

3- Centralized systems (Central Hydronic systems): This can be divided to three major
types as follows:

 Centralized Ducted “All – Air” Systems.

 Centralized Fluid Based Hydronic Systems.
 Combined (Hybrid) Water and Air Systems.

The following table will show a comparison between these configurations as follows:
1- Decentralized Systems (Individual Room Systems)

These are systems in which heating and cooling is conducted locally, these systems are
relatively common in schools, small hotels, domestic applications, residential homes and
small offices.

Decentralized Systems are essentially direct expansion (DX) systems, which operate using
direct expansion of refrigerant in the finned tubes across the air path.

In smaller buildings, smaller room air conditioners are less expensive to operate than
central units, even though their efficiency is generally lower than that of central air
conditioners.

The major types of decentralized systems are:

 Split Cooling Units.

 Window Units.
 Split Heat Pumps.

A- Split Cooling Units

The split systems are individual systems in which the two heat exchangers are separated
(one outside, one inside). The split air conditioner can be installed in rooms and offices
where you don’t want to disturb the setup of the room and avoid demolitions in your
favorite space.
There are two main parts of the split air conditioner. These are:

1) Outdoor unit:

This unit is installed outside the room or office space which is to be cooled and houses
important components of the air conditioner like:

The compressor:
External power has to be supplied to the compressor, which is utilized for compressing
the refrigerant and increases its pressure before sending it to the condenser. The size of
the compressor varies depending on the desired air conditioning load. In most of the
domestic split air conditioners hermetically sealed type of compressor is used. In such
compressors the motor used for driving the shaft is located inside the sealed unit and it is
not visible externally.

Condenser coil:
It is the coiled copper tubing with one or more rows depending on the size of the air
conditioning unit and the compressor. The condenser is also covered with the aluminum
fins so that the heat from the refrigerant can be removed at more faster rate.

Condenser Cooling Fan:

The condenser cooling fan is an ordinary fan with three or four blades and is driven by a
motor. The cooling fan is located in front of the compressor and the condenser coil. As
the blades of the fan rotate it absorbs the surrounding air from the open space and blows
it over the compressor and the condenser with the aluminum fins thus cooling them.

Expansion Valve:
The expansion valve is usually a copper capillary tubing with several rounds of coils.The
high pressure and medium temperature refrigerant leaves the condenser and enters the
expansion valve, where its temperature and pressure drops suddenly.

2) Indoor unit:

The most common type of the indoor unit is the wall mounted type though other types
like ceiling mounted and floor mounted are also used. the indoor unit produces the
cooling effect inside the room or the office and houses

The evaporator coil or the cooling coil:

The cooling coil is a copper coil made of number turns of the copper tubing with one or
more rows depending on the capacity of the air conditioning system. The cooling coil is
covered with the aluminum fins so that the maximum amount of heat can be transferred
from the coil to the air inside the room.

Cooling Fan or Blower:

The blower sucks the hot and unclean air from the room and supplies cool and clean air
back. The shaft of the blower rotates inside the bushes and it is connected to a small
multiple speed motor, thus the speed of the blower can be changed. When the fan speed
is changed with the remote it is the speed of the blower that changes.

The drain pipe:

The drain pipe helps removing dew water collected inside the indoor unit.

Louvers or Fins:
The cool air supplied by the blower is passed into the room through louvers. The louvers
help changing the angle or direction in which the air needs to be supplied into the room
as per the requirements.

There are two types of louvers: horizontal and vertical. The horizontal louvers are
connected to a small motor and their position can set by the remote control and the
vertical louvers are operated manually and one can easily change their position as per the
requirements

Air filter:
It removes all the dirt particles from the room air and helps supplying clean air to the
room. The air filter in the wall mounted type of the indoor unit is placed just before the
cooling coil.

Operation Method:
In the outdoor unit there is a fan that blows air over the condenser thus cooling the
compressed Freon gas in it. This gas passes through the expansion coil and gets converted
into low pressure, low temperature partial gas and partial liquid Freon fluid, after passing
from the expansion coil, the chilled Freon fluid enters the cooling coil. The blower sucks
the hot, humid and filtered air from the room and it blows it over the cooling coil. As the
air passes over cooling coil its temperature reduces drastically and also loses the excess
moisture. The cool and dry air enters the room and maintains comfortable conditions of
around 25-27 degree Celsius as per the requirements.

Controls:

The temperature inside the space can be maintained by thermostat setting.

Note: These days, multi-split air conditioners are also being used commonly. In units for
one outdoor unit there are two indoor units which can be placed in two different rooms
or at two different locations inside a large room.

B- Window Units

 Window-mounted air conditioners cool the individual conditioned spaces.

 A window unit is an encased assembly designed primarily for mounting in a
window, through a wall, or as a console.
 A window unit produces cool air on one side and rejects hot air on the other and
provides delivery of conditioned air to a room without ducts.
 A window unit has a low initial cost and is quick and easy to install.
 A window unit requires outside exposure for heat rejection and cannot be used for
interior rooms

A/C Window Unit Construction

Window Unit Construction:

 Condenser (outdoor coil).

 Condenser fan.
 Hermetic compressor.
 Capillary tube.
 Evaporator (indoor conditioning coil).
 Evaporator fan.
 Controls: The controls for window units are simple and inbuilt, with a rotating
switch marked with a hot-cold scale with no temperature settings. Most units will
 heat as well as cool. Fresh air control, if it exists, is normally adjusted by a manual
lever.

C- Mini- Heat Pumps

 A cooling only system cools the indoor air but a heat pump provides cooling in
summer season and heating in winter season.

 DX system operating in reverse vapor compression cycle is classified as Heat pump.

Through an addition of a special four-way reversing valve, heat flow in mechanical
refrigeration loop can be reversed so that heat is extracted from outside air and
rejected into the building.
  Such a facility is required during winter season to heat the indoor using the same
physical components. Due to added heat of compression, the efficiency of heat
pump is higher compared to the cooling cycle.

 A supplementary electric resistance heater may also be used to assist the heat
pump at lower outdoor temperatures. In colder climates, heats pumps require
defrost period. During defrost times the electric heater is the only means of
heating the interior of the building.

 Split heat pumps are Air-to-Air types and they are the most common type of heat
pumps. It is particularly suitable for factory-built unitary heat pumps, and has
been widely used for residential and commercial application. Air is used as the
heat source and heat sink. Extended surface, forced convection heat transfer coils
are normally employed to transfer the heat between the air and the refrigerant.
When selecting or designing an air-source heat pump, two factors in particular
must be taken into consideration:

1. The variation in temperature experienced in a given locality.

2. The formation of frost.

In the next Topic, I will explain other types of air conditioning systems configurations "
Semi- centralized systems and centralized systems air condition". so, please keep
following.

Note: these topics about HVAC in this course EE-1: Beginner's electrical design course is
an introduction only for beginners to know general basic information about electrical
HVAC Power loads. but in other levels of our electrical design courses, we will show and
explain in detail the HVAC Loads Estimation and HVAC equipment Capacities with
examples for different types of buildings.

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How to Install a Split System Air Conditioner

Three Parts:Install the Indoor UnitInstall the Outdoor CondenserComplete the Split System Air
Conditioner InstallationCommunity Q&A

Most people hire a professional to install a split system air conditioner. However, if you have some
experience with plumbing and electrical work, you can install the unit on your own. Each split system or
ductless air conditioner is unique to its manufacturer, but this article explains the general instructions
for installing a split system air conditioner.

Steps

Part 1

Install the Indoor Unit

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src="http://pad1.whstatic.com/images/thumb/7/7e/Install-a-Split-System-Air-Conditioner-Step-
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Select an unobstructed location on your interior wall to mount the indoor air conditioning unit.

Avoid direct sunlight and heat sources.

Avoid locations where gas may leak or where oil mist or sulphur exists.

The indoor unit requires at least 6" (15 cm) of open space surrounding its top and sides. The unit should
also be mounted at least 7 feet (2.13 m) above the ground.
Install the unit at least 3.3 feet (1 m) away from antenna, power or connecting lines that are used for
television, radio, home security systems, intercoms or telephones. The electrical noise from these
sources could cause operational problems for your air conditioner.

The wall should be strong enough to hold the weight of the unit. You may need to construct a wood or
metal frame to provide added support.

<img alt="Image titled Install a Split System Air Conditioner Step 2"
src="http://pad3.whstatic.com/images/thumb/a/a5/Install-a-Split-System-Air-Conditioner-Step-
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class="whcdn">

Secure the mounting plate to the interior wall.

Hold the mounting plate against the wall where you want to install the indoor unit.
Use a level to make sure the plate is both horizontally level.

Drill holes into the wall at appropriate spots to affix the plate to the wall.

Insert plastic anchors into the holes. Secure the plate to the wall with tapping screws.

<img alt="Image titled Install a Split System Air Conditioner Step 3"
src="http://pad3.whstatic.com/images/thumb/e/e9/Install-a-Split-System-Air-Conditioner-Step-
3.jpg/aid701047-728px-Install-a-Split-System-Air-Conditioner-Step-3.jpg" width="728" height="544"
class="whcdn">

Create a hole in the wall to fit the piping.

Find the best spot for the hole to the exterior based on the opening in the mounting bracket. You should
also consider the length of the pipe and the distance that it needs to travel to reach the outside unit.
Drill a hole that is 3" (7.5 cm) in diameter through the wall. The hole should slope downward toward the
exterior to ensure adequate drainage.

Insert a flexible flange into the hole.

<img alt="Image titled Install a Split System Air Conditioner Step 4"
src="http://pad2.whstatic.com/images/thumb/3/3e/Install-a-Split-System-Air-Conditioner-Step-
4.jpg/aid701047-728px-Install-a-Split-System-Air-Conditioner-Step-4.jpg" width="728" height="543"
class="whcdn">

Check the electrical connections.

Lift the unit’s front panel and remove the cover.

Be sure the cable wires are connected to the screw terminals. Also, make sure that they match the
diagram that comes with the unit.
<img alt="Image titled Install a Split System Air Conditioner Step 5"
src="http://pad2.whstatic.com/images/thumb/8/88/Install-a-Split-System-Air-Conditioner-Step-
5.jpg/aid701047-728px-Install-a-Split-System-Air-Conditioner-Step-5.jpg" width="728" height="546"
class="whcdn">

Connect the pipes.

Run the piping from the indoor unit toward the hole drilled through the wall. Minimize bending to
ensure that the unit performs well.

Cut a length of PVC pipe 1/4" (6 millimeters) shorter than the length between your interior and exterior
wall surfaces.

Place the pipe cap on the interior end of the PVC pipe. Insert the pipe into the hole in the wall.

Bind the copper pipes, the power cables and the drain pipe together with electrical tape. Place the drain
pipe on the bottom to ensure a free flow of water.
Secure the pipe to the indoor unit. Use 2 wrenches, working in opposite directions, to tighten the
connection.

Join the water drainage pipe to the indoor unit’s base.

Run the bound pipes and cables through the hole in the wall. Make sure that the drainage pipe allows
water to drain in an appropriate place.

<img alt="Image titled Install a Split System Air Conditioner Step 6"
src="http://pad3.whstatic.com/images/thumb/0/0b/Install-a-Split-System-Air-Conditioner-Step-
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class="whcdn">

Secure the indoor unit to the mounting plate by pressing the unit against the mounting plate.
Part 2

Install the Outdoor Condenser

<img alt="Image titled Install a Split System Air Conditioner Step 7"
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class="whcdn">

Choose the best place to install the outdoor unit.

The outdoor unit’s location needs to be away from any heavily trafficked, dusty or hot areas.

The outdoor unit needs 12" of space surrounding its perimeter to ensure proper functioning.
<img alt="Image titled Install a Split System Air Conditioner Step 8"
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Lay the concrete pad on the ground and make sure that it is level. The pad should be high enough so
that the condenser will sit above the level of winter snows.

Set the outdoor condenser on top of the pad. Use rubber cushioning under the unit's feet to minimize
vibration.

Make sure that no antenna of a radio or television is within 10 feet (3 meters) of the outdoor condenser.
<img alt="Image titled Install a Split System Air Conditioner Step 9"
src="http://pad3.whstatic.com/images/thumb/6/65/Install-a-Split-System-Air-Conditioner-Step-
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Connect the electrical wires.

Remove the cover.

Refer to the unit’s wiring diagram and make sure the cable wires are connected as the diagram suggests.
Following the manufacturer's instructions for wiring is crucial.

Fasten the cables with a cable clamp and replace the cover.
<img alt="Image titled Install a Split System Air Conditioner Step 11"
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Bleed the air and humidity from the refrigerant circuit.

Remove the caps from the 2-way and 3-way valves and from the service port.

Connect a vacuum pump hose to the service port.

Turn the vacuum on until it reaches an absolute vacuum of 10mm Hg.

Close the low pressure knob and then turn off the vacuum.

Test all of the valves and joints for leaks.

Disconnect the vacuum. Replace the service port and caps.

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Wrap the joints of the piping with insulating covering and insulating tape.
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Affix the piping to the wall with clamps.