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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS 2015
ARVIND LIMITED, LIFESTYLE APPAREL,

JEANS DIVISION
MYSORE ROAD, BANGALORE
Internship Duration: - 25th May to 29TH AUGUST, 2015
APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT
Under the Guidance and Supervision of:

MRS. V PRIYADARSHINI
Submitted By:
RAJIV RANJAN
VIBHANSHU SRIVASTAVA
DFT – SEM 7
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD
1
DECLARATION
This is to declare that this document is an original work done by the following students
of Department of Fashion Technology, semester 7 under the guidance of the college
mentor “Mrs. V Priyadarshini”
Rajiv Ranjan
Vibhanshu Srivastava
Mrs. V Priyadarshini
(Mentor)
2
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
We would sincerely like to thank Arvind Limited, Lifestyle Apparel, Jeans Division,
Mysore road, Bangalore for giving us an opportunity to work and learn in the apparel
industry as an internee. It was great experience learning from expertise in the industry.
It was a very good exposure with newly automated machineries indeed. We would like
to thank our mentor Mr. Shrinivas Naik (Head of Laundry Operations) and Mr. Rajendra
N (Quality Head) for guiding us throughout the internship period and providing a moral
and mental support. We would also like to the hr manager, Mr. Vikas Tripathi & Mr.
Partha Das, for taking care of our needs and for providing encouragement at every step.
We would like to give our heartfelt gratitude to the “head of department” of all the
departments that we studied for letting us go through the processes in detail with the
help of provided person.
On the other part, we would like to thank our centre co-coordinator “Mr. Shakeel Iqbal”
for providing us the chance to do the internship and our college mentor “Mrs.
Priyadarshini” for guiding us throughout the internship span. It was a good experience
visiting Arvind ltd. And learning the new perceptions, methods, techniques and
atomization related to the textiles.
Lastly, we would like to thank our parents, friends and co-internees for boosting up our
strength and helping us whenever we needed. Without them we would not had been
able to do this document.
3
TABLE OF CONTENT
S.NO TOPIC PAGE NO.
1. ABOUT THE COMPANY 8-20
2. INTRODUCTION 21-22
3. CHAPTER 1- MERCHANDISING 23-30
4. CHAPTER 2- STORE DEPARTMENT 31-35
5. CHAPTER 3- FABRIC STORAGE 36-43
6. CHAPTER 4- TRIMS STORAGE 44-47
7. CHAPTER 5- LABORATORY 48-56
8. CHAPTER 6- SAMPLING AND PATTERN MAKING 57-72
9. CHAPTER 7- CUTTING 73-87
10. CHAPTER 8 - SEWING 88-100
11. CHAPTER 9 – INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING 101-104
12. CHAPTER 10 - WASHING 105-130
13. CHAPTER 11 – FINISHING AND PACKAGING 131-141
15 CHAPTER 12. PROJECTS 142-242
15.A PROJECT #1 143-186
15.B PROJECT #2 187-242
16 BIBLIOGRAPHY 243
17 ANNEXURES 244
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List of Figures and Tables
Figure .No TOPIC PAGE NO.
1 Work Flow in Organization 22
1.1 Process Flow In Merchandising Department 25
1.2 Process Functionality In Merchandising Department 26
1.3 Role Of Market And Product Merchandising 29
1.4 Hierarchy In Merchandising 30
2.1 Fabric And trim Storage 31
3.1 Fabric Storage 36
3.2 Layout of Fabric Storage 37
3.3 Process Flow Of Fabric Storage 38
3.4 Sections Of Fabric Storage 38
3.5 Shade Segregation Details 40
3.6 Fabric Inspection Process 42
3.7 Activity chart Of fabric Storage 43
4.1 Trim Storage 44
4.2 Layout of Trim Storage 45
4.3 Process Flow of Trim Storage 46
5.1 Tests performed in Lab 51
6.1 CAD & Sampling Department 57
6.2 Layout Of Sampling Department 59
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6.3 Cutting Section Of Sampling Department 67
6.4 Sewing Section Of sampling Department 69
7.1 Cutting Department 73
7.2 Layout Of Cutting Department 74
7.3 Process Flow Of Cutting Department 75
7.4 Activity Flowchart Of Cutting Department 77
7.5 Fabric Relaxation 79
7.6 Spreading 80
7.7 Labeling & Cutting 83
7.8 Embroidery section 85
7.9 Numbering, Bundling & Audit Section 87
8.1 Sewing department 88
8.2 Sewing Lines 90
8.3 Layout Of sewing Lines 91
8.4 Process Flow Of Sewing department 93
8.5 Wash care label Standard 97
9.1 Industrial Engineering Department 101
10.1 S.O.P Of Washing Department 106
10.2 Layout Of Dry Washing 107
10.3 Process Flow of Laser operations 109
10.4 Hand scrapping 111
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10.5 Tacking 113
10.6 Resin Wash 114
10.7 Crocking 115
10.8 curing 115
10.9 Layout Of wet Processing 117
10.10 Grinder 118
10.11 PP Spray 119
10.12 Process cycle Of Stone Wash 121
10.13 Pumice Stones for Stone Wash 122
10.14 Sponge used For Sponge Wash 125
10.15 Semi Wash & final Wash Loader 125
10.16 Hydro Extractor 127
10.17 Material flow In wet washing 129
11.1 Finishing department 131
11.2 Process Flow Of Finishing Department 135
11.3 Process Layout 140
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S.No. TABLES Pg. No.
3.1 4 pt. system 41
6.1 Stitching Steps For denim Jeans 70
8.1 Capacity details Of Wet Process 92
8.2 Operational Breakdown Of Sewing Section 95
8.3 Machine types & Needles 98
10.1 SMV Of whiskering 108
10.2 SMV of Hand Scrapping 112
10.3 SMV Of Crinckling & Curing 112
10.4 SMV Of Hydro Extraction 116
10.5 Methods Of Washing 126
10.6 Machine Details Of Wet Process 128
10.7 Machine Details Of Dry process 130
10.8 Tacking 130
11.1 Machine Details For Finishing Department 136
11.2 Capacity Details For Finishing Department 136
11.3 Manpower Details For Finishing Department 137
11.4 Time study Of Ricky Youth 132
11.5 SMV details Of Various Buyers 138
11.6 Machine Details 139
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Table of Figures for PROJECT#2
Figure .No TOPIC PAGE NO.
1.0 Operational Breakdown Of Mould Whiskering 190
1.1 Setup Of Suspender 191
1.2 Elastic Band Implementation 193
1.3 Elastic Bands With Velcro Used For The Setup 195
1.4 Cello Tape Attachment 196
1.5 Elastic Band Attachment 196
1.6 Operational And Time Breakdown Of Puncture Patches 198
1.7 The Breakdown Of Puncture Patches Process After 201

Implementation
1.8 Manpower Reduction For Puncture Patches Process 202
2.1 Standard Procedure For Developing Module Setup 206
2.2 Dry Process Update Chart 208
2.3 H&M Hand Sanding Report 209
2.4 LEVI’S Hand Sanding Report 210
2.5 Hand Sanding Final Checking Report 211
2.6 Mould Whiskering Final Checking Report 212
2.7 Operators Hourly Production Report 213
2.8 Dry Process QA audit Final Report 214
2.9 Dry process QA audit Report 215
2.10 Dry process Q.A audit report 216
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2.11 Set Theory Of Constraints 218
2.12 Washing Quality Checking Report 222
2.13 Washing Rework And Rejection Details 223
2.14 Washing Quality Process Control Lot Wise Audit Report- 225
Final Wash
2.15 Washing Quality Process Control Lot Wise Audit Report- 226
Semi Wash
2.16 Washing And Dry Process Control Wise Report 227
2.17 Washing Process Control-Initial 5 Lots(Semi) 228
2.18 Washing Process Control-Initial 5 Lots(Final) 229
2.19 Washing Quality Checking Report 231
2.20 Washing Quality Checking Report- Dry Process 231
2.21 Washing Quality Process Control Wise Audit Report 233
2.22 Washing Process Control- Initial 4 Lots 234
2.23 Quality And Audit Module Setup Through ISO XPRESS 235
2.24 Log In Screen 237
2.25 Home Screen 237
2.26 Quality Audit Option 238
2.27 “Internal Audit” Screen 238
2.28 “Internal Audit Record” Screen 239
2.29 “Report” Screen 240
2.30 “Attachments” Screen 240
2.31 “Template” Screen 241
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About the Company | Introduction
Arvind Limited started with a share capital of Rs 2,525,000 ($55,000) in the year 1931.
With the aim of manufacturing the high-end superfine fabrics Arvind invested in very
sophisticated technology. With 52,560 ring spindles, 2552 doubling spindles and 1122
looms it was one of the few companies in those days to start along with spinning and
weaving facilities in addition to full-fledged facilities for dyeing, bleaching, finishing and
mercerizing. The sales in the year 1934, three years after establishment were Rs 45.76
lakh and profits were Rs 2.82 lakh. Steadily producing high quality fabrics, year after
year, Arvind took its place amongst the foremost textile units in the country.
In the mid 1980’s the textile industry faced another major crisis. With the power
loom churning out vast quantities of inexpensive fabric, many large composite mills lost
their markets, and were on the verge of closure. Yet that period saw Arvind at its
highest level of profitability. There could be no better time, concluded the Management,
for a rethink on strategy. The Arvind management coined a new word for it new strategy
– Reno vision. It simply meant a new way of looking at issues, of seeing more than the
obvious and that became the corporate philosophy.
The national focus paved way for international focus and Arvind’s markets shifted
from domestic to global, a market that expected and accepted only quality goods. An in-
depth analysis of the world textile market proved an eye opener. People the world over
were shifting from synthetic to natural fabrics. Cottons were the largest growing
segments. But where conventional wisdom pointed to popular priced segments, Reno
vision pointed to high quality premium niches. Thus in 1987-88 Arvind entered the
export market for two sections -Denim for leisure & fashion wear and high quality fabric
for cotton shirting and trousers. By 1991 Arvind reached 1600 million meters of Denim
per year and it was the third largest producer of Denim in the world.
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About the Company | Company’s Vision
The underlying theme running across the broad spectrum of

‘We will enable
all business activities at Arvind is that of enhancing lifestyles
of people, across all diversities and demographics. people to
experience a
OUR PHILOSOPHY
better quality of
WE BELIEVE
life by providing
In people and their unlimited potential; in content and in focus enriching and
on problem solving; in teams for effective performance, in the
inspiring lifestyle
power of the intellect.
solutions’.
WE ENDEAVOUR
To select, train and coach people to obtain higher

responsibilities; to nurture talent, and to build leaders for the
corporations of tomorrow; to reward, celebrate and activate all
intellectual business contributions.
WE DREAM
Of excellence in all endeavors; of mutual benefit and

prosperity; of making the world a better place to live in.
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Denim
The late 1980’s saw Arvind pioneer the manufacture
of denim in India. Today with an installed capacity of over 110 million meters per
annum, Arvind is a leading producer of denim worldwide. Design, Innovations and
Sustainability have been Arvind’s core competency and have played a key role in
Arvind’s success. The use of sophisticated ultramodern technology under the guidance
of world-renowned designers has enabled Arvind to deliver many firsts in the
international markets. All Arvind’s products are designed and modeled on the basis of
expert design inputs coming from Arvind’s designers based out of India, Japan, Italy
and the United States. All Arvind Denim products come with the hallmark of
distinctiveness and quality.
Some Examples:
· Shuttle looms for Selvedge denim

· Name selvedge and Stretch selvedge
· Unique Fibers like Excel, Jute, Silk, and Linen
· Natural Indigo and Vegetable dyes
· Unique concept products like Indigo voiles & Handspun denim
· Organic, BCI & Sustainable denim
The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100,
GOTS, and Organic exchange standard. Arvind’s labs are certified by NABL (ISO 17025
certification) and customers like Levi’s, Lee, and Wrangler etc.
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Knits
Arvind’s knits department has an annual knitting capacity of 5,000 tons. The knits
vertical has a fabric dyeing capacity of 5000 tons per annum and yarn dyeing capacity
of 1800 tons per annum. It has the ability to process both tubular and open-width fabrics
and offers specialty finishes like mercerization, singeing and various forms of brushing
and peaching.
Basic knits:
Jersey, Pique, Rib, and Interlock

Specialty knits: Yarn-dyed, Auto stripers, Jacquards, and Stretch fabric
Fibers: Cotton, Excel, Viscose, Modal, Polyester
Finishes: Mercerization, Brushing, Peaching, Aero-finish.
Marks & Spencer – Eddie Bauer – Zara – Josepha Banks
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Garment Exports
A world without boundaries is a promise of a global marketplace. At Arvind, our range of

fabrics is universal in appeal. We aim to inspire a diverse mix of customers enriching
lifestyles globally. We have successfully established ourselves as a one-stop shop for
apparel solutions catering to an array of national and international clients.
 Bottoms: 7.2 million pieces of jeans per annum

 Formal & Casual tops: 6 million pieces per annum
 Knit tops: 3.6 million pieces per annum
 Our specialized capabilities for adding value to our products include:
 Automated Placement Printing Machinery
 India’s largest washing facility with Tonello machines for wet processes
 Bohemian machines and Laser tech for unique and automated dry
processes
 Skilled artisans for hand processes
Gap Inc – Patagonia – Tommy Hilfiger – Quicksilver – Brooks Brothers – Silver Jeans –
Calvin Klein – FCUK – Pull & Bear – Jack & Jones – Energie – Esprit – S.Oliver – Mexx
– Sisley – Benetton – Coin
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Advanced Materials
We envision world leadership in the field of advanced materials offering high-tech

textile solutions for critical and composite applications.
Arvind Ltd., A US $ 1.3 billion Lalbhai Group company has created the Advanced
Textiles Business. Building further on our legacy of innovation, we have brought a new
level of sophistication to manufacturing fabrics. Our Pro1 range of branded fabrics and
composite textiles includes solutions for growing industrial sectors like Personal
Protection, Industrial Filtration, Wind Energy, Defense, Auto Components,
Transportation, and Housing & Infrastructure.
Products in the Pro1 range include:
 Fire Protection Fabrics
 Chemically treated Flame Retardant Fabrics
 Proban
 Pyrovatex
 Inherent Fire Resistant Fabrics

 Nomex
 Protex (Modacrylic)
 High Tech Applications
 Filtration Fabrics
 Anti-Ballistic Fabrics
 Nylon Fabrics
 Carbon-Glass-Aramid Fabrics
Arvind is amongst a few organizations worldwide with a portfolio of brands that are as
distinctive and relevant across diverse consumers. At Arvind, brands work across
multiple channels, price points and consumer segments. The expanse of the Arvind
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brandscape is spread across the Indian market with around 273 standalone brand
stores in addition to 975 counters selling through key accounts and multibrand outlets
across India.
Own Brands Licensened Brands Joint Venture Brands

Mainstream Bridge to Luxury Bridge to Luxury
Excalibur Gant U.S.A. 1949 Tommy Hilfiger
Flying Machine Energie’
Popular Premium Premium
Ruf&Tuf USPA Lee

New Port University Arrow Wrangler
Izod
Popular
Cherokee
Mossimo
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Mega Mart Retail

Arvind runs India's largest Value Retail Chain -
Megamart. The MegaMart format offers a unique
and differentiated proposition to the consumers. It offers mega brands at amazingly low
prices and provides a retail experience of a high-end department store.
The Megamart stores range in size from 2000 sq ft to 65000 sq ft. The larger stores are
called Big Megamart and there are 6 such stores across Bangalore, Chennai, Pune and
Mumbai. The smaller formats spreads across the country are 205 in number. Mega mart
is expanding rapidly and is expected to be a Rs. 1000 cr chain within the next two
years.
The brands sold exclusively in Mega mart include:
RUGGERS - SKINN - ELITUS - DONUTS - KARIGARI - MEA CASA - AUBURN HILL -

BAY ISLAND - COLT - LEISHA- EDGE
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The Arvind Store
After decades of ruling the national and international fabric markets, Arvind has now
introduced The Arvind Store, a unique concept in fabrics and apparel retail. The Arvind
Store brings together, under one roof, the best that Arvind has to offer. It is a
convergence of three of Arvind’s strongest capabilities, the best of fabrics from Arvind’s
textiles division, leading apparel brands from Arvind Brands and bespoke styling
solutions based on the latest garment styles from Arvind Studios. In a world where
bespoke tailoring meets cutting edge fashion, The Arvind Store will create a shopping
experience to rival the best in the Indian Marketplace.
Over a 1000 different fabric styles across shirting, suiting and denim
Leading apparel brands such as Arrow, US Polo & Flying Machine
Arvind Denim Labs (ADL), a bespoke denim concept offering customized washed denim
- a first of its kind in India and perhaps the world
Arvind Studio – A styling and tailoring solution to rival the best brands in the world
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About the Company | Executive Leaders
Corporate
Jayesh Shah
Director & CFO
Anang Lalbhai
MD - Arvind Products
Lifestyle Fabrics
Aamir Akhtar
CEO, Lifestyle Fabrics - Denim
Susheel Kaul
CEO, Knits & Woven Fabrics
PD Chavda
President, Voiles
Lifestyle Apparel
Ashish Kumar
CEO, Lifestyle Apparel - Jeans & Shirts
Brands & Retail

J.Suresh
Managing Director - Brands & Retail
Knowledge Academy
Milan Shah
CEO, Knowledge Academy
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About the Company | Board of Directors
MR. SANJAY S. LALBHAI
(CHAIRMAN AND MANAGING DIRECTOR)
Mr. Sanjay S. Lalbhai, 58 years, is the Chairman and Managing Director of the
Company. He is a Science Graduate with a Master's degree in Business Management
and has been associated with the Company for more than 33 years.
MR. JAYESH SHAH

(DIRECTOR AND CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER)
Mr. Jayesh K. Shah, 52 years, is the Whole time Director with the designation of
Director and Chief Financial Officer of the Company. He is a Commerce Graduate and a
Chartered Accountant and has been with the company since 1st July, 1993.
MR. PUNIT LALBHAI

(EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR)
Mr. Punit Lalbhai, 30 years, is an MBA from INSEAD (France) specializing in Strategy
and General Management, along with Post-Graduate degree in Masters of
Environmental Science from Yale University, and a Bachelors degree in Science
(Conservation Biology) from University of California, USA.
MR. KULIN LALBHAI

(EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR)
Mr. Kulin Lalbhai, 27years, is an MBA from Harvard Business School (USA), along with
a Bachelors degree in Science (Electrical Engineering) from Stanford University, USA.
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About the Company | International Buyers
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About the Company | Own Brands
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INTRODUCTION
DENIM
The late 1980’s saw Arvind pioneer the manufacture of denim in India. Today with an
installed capacity of over 110 million meters per annum, Arvind is a leading producer of
denim worldwide. Design, Innovations and Sustainability have been our core
competency and have played a key role in our success. The use of sophisticated
ultramodern technology under the guidance of world-renowned designers has enabled
Arvind to deliver many firsts in the international markets. All products are designed and
modeled on the basis of expert design inputs coming from our designers based out of
India, Japan, Italy and the United States. All Arvind Denim products come with the
hallmark of distinctiveness and quality.
Some Examples:
Shuttle looms for Selvedge denim
Name selvedge and Stretch selvedge
Unique Fibers like Excel, Jute, Silk, Linen
Natural Indigo and Vegetable dyes
Unique concept products like Indigo voiles & Handspun denim
Organic, BCI & Sustainable denim
The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100,
GOTS, and Organic exchange standard. Labs are certified by NABL (ISO 17025
certification) and customers like Levi’s, Lee, and Wrangler etc. The workflow of the
company is shown in figure 1.
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WORK FLOW IN THE ORGANISATION
HR
MARKETING DESIGN
MERCHANDISING
SAMPLING
PURCHASE
STORE
PPC
CUTTING
SEWING
WASHING
FINISHING
PACKAGING
SHIPMENT
Figure I .Work Flow in the organization
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CHAPTER 1.MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
Upon confirmation of the order from the buyer the job of the merchandising department
starts. A merchandiser is the middleman between the manufacturer and the buyer.
Merchandiser is solely responsible for coordinating inter departmental activities and to
get the shipment dispatched on schedule. A merchandiser takes care of all the orders
from his/her designated buyer.
The merchandiser also coordinates the sampling procedure. He gets all the samples
made in various stages and sends them to the buyer and carries out the necessary
corrections & additions told by the buyer. The sampling process is a lengthy & very
crucial process, because what you get approved finally by the buyer, if your bulk
shipment doesn’t match even in the tiniest of specifications, the whole shipment can be
rejected. So, a merchandiser should very clearly and carefully examine & analyze each
sample before he sends to the buyer & get approval.
MERCHANDISING SECTION
A Merchandising division surrounds the concept of the target customer and translates
the customer preference into a product line for the rest of the apparel firm.
Merchandising is the planning, development and presentation of product line for
identified target market with regard to prices, assortment, styling and timing.
Merchandising department is the central coordinating point for line development, design
execution and delivery of products. It plays a major role in the industry and they
communicate with all other department to give the information from the Buyer and get
the things done on the required date. Merchandiser deals with the Buyer and the
suppliers and through them the order is processed and delivery dates are met on time.
Merchandising involves the conceptualization, development, procurement of raw

material, sourcing, planning and coordination between all the departments for production
and delivery of apparel products to the customer. The Merchandising Department is
responsible for selling the manufactured product to the buyer. It is responsible for getting
the orders and hence generates a source of revenue for the company. A team of
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merchants, along with people from various departments such as Production, Sampling,
Quality, are responsible for overseeing the development of the product.
In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects.

Senior merchandisers have responsibilities of products development and co
coordinating with the buyer, the garment styles that meet buyer’s expectations in
regards to delivery, quality and price point. Junior merchandisers have the responsibility
of handling paper work and follow up, detailing with buyers, overseas communication
etc.
Merchandiser will check whether it is possible to go ahead with the style and if the style
is feasible will get the costing done and get the sample ready. The goal is the timely
delivery of costing details and samples so as to receive an order from the buyer.
Merchandiser needs to make the time and action plan, allocating time to various
activities keeping in mind the resources available in hand.
Communications with overseas and domestic suppliers, approval of production

samples, and Merchandisers have to negotiate with the buyers on pricing, work out
delivery schedules, and investigate for future buyers.
The hierarchy and the function flow is given in figure1.0 and the process flow is shown
in figure1.1.
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1.1 MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
Process Flow in Merchandising
OB recieved from Package file sent to

Recieve P.O from
IED & Production all dept. with all
the buyer
plan from PPC details
Time and action

Recieve tech pack & Trims and fabric
chart prepared for
sample approved
orders
Tech pack & sample Fabric and trims Packed garment

sent to sampling ordered after shipped to buyer
and tech dept. approval with tech pack copy
Sample sent to
send tech dept for
buyer with test
correction
reports for approval
Figure 1.1 Process flow in merchandising
Functions Performed By Merchandising Department
The functions performed by the Merchandising department can be broadly classified

under the following headlines.
1) Communication
2) Co-ordination
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3) Planning
4) Follow up
5) Sourcing
6) Costing
7) Sampling
8) Compliance &
9) Documentation and Maintaining Records
These steps are made practical through the functionality flow (shown in figure 1.2) in the
merchandising department.
Green Tag
DGD received PP Sample
Sample
Development Yellow Tag

Bulk Production
Sample Sample
Fit Sample/Sellers
Proto Sample
Sample
Figure 1.2 Process functionality in merchandising
In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects.

Senior merchandisers have responsibilities of products development and co
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coordinating with the buyer, the garment styles that meet buyer’s expectations in
regards to delivery, quality and price point. Junior merchandisers have the responsibility
of handling paper work and follow up, detailing with buyers, overseas communication
etc.
The Merchandiser performs the following follow ups:
 With Buyer to send complete info about the styles

 With all dept. to check everything is going as planned
 With Buyers to send the raw material for sampling
 With Suppliers to get raw materials in house on time
 With Sampling dept. and seeing that samples are ready
 With the Buyers to send the comments and approvals
 With Production dept. to check whether the production is on time so that
the bulk delivery schedules are met.
Key Responsibilities of a Merchandiser:
I. Communication
II. Coordination
III. Planning
IV. Follow up
V. Sourcing
VI. Costing
VII. Negotiation
VIII. Sampling
IX. Compliance
X. Managerial
XI. Decision Making
XII. Documentation and Maintaining Records
Merchandiser role in Production Development
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A merchandiser can have both buyer and seller roles. As a buyer for materials needed
in production, his duties might include sourcing vendors, securing samples and
communicating between the export house and suppliers. In the seller role, the
merchandiser helps buyers with developing merchandise specifications for export house
orders. Export house duties can include developing samples and presentation portfolios
used to secure prospective buyers. An educational background in design may be
sought for an export merchandiser whose primary duty is to assist clients with product
development. In the garment industry, for instance, the merchandiser may help a client
develop custom specifications for garment designs, including fabric and color
selections.
OTHER ROLES OF MERCHANDISER
Order Follow-Up.
Prepares a timetable during pre-production and production stages.
Conducts plan visits to follow-up the status of the product/order.
Closely monitors the production process and sends progress reports to the
buyer.
Establishes clear measures for quality control, and affects the same in inspecting
all orders placed during production and post-production prior to loading.
Ensures on-time delivery of the goods to the buyer.
Negotiates with buyer in case of delay.
WORK OF MERCHANDISER
In every season the garment merchandiser receives tech pack from various buyers.
These tech packs contain information about the garment down to very last detail. Four
copies of these tech packs are made for the following.
INDUSTRIAL IE DEPARTMENT.
CAD DEPARTMENT (PATTERN MAKING).
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT.
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SELF
MERCHANDISER ROLES IN DIFFERENT WORK PROCESS
Fabric Merchandiser is in charge of purchasing the fabric, for sampling as well as

bulk purposes.
Trims Merchandisers are in charge of purchasing the trims.
There are different merchants for organizing interlining, thread, packing material,
buttons and zippers etc.
The garment merchandiser then fills pattern request forms and sampling request forms
and executes the styles for sampling.
A final sample called the sealer sample or the pre-production sample is made which is
sent to the factory for bulk production. During production, if any shortage in fabric or
trims or any other problems arise, the merchant is informed, and they acquire more
fabric or trims, or under extreme conditions, inform the buyer for an extension in delivery
date. Market and product merchandising are two main forms of merchandising. These
have got various versatile roles shown in figure1.3. These two forms depends lot on the
hierarchy of merchandising(shown in figure1.4)
• Contact with buyers

• Sending samples
Marketing • Getting approvals & rejections and
Merchandising futher communications
• Payment terms and other
negotiations
• Sourcing of raw materials

• Costing
Product • Sample development at various
stages
Merchandising • Production status
• Completion of order on time and
with required buyer specifications
Figure 1.3 Role of market and product merchandising
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Head Merchandiser
Senior Marketing Senior Production

Merchandiser Merchandiser
Junior Marketing Junior Production

Merchandiser Merchandiser
Figure 1.4 Hierarchy in merchandising
The marketing department is responsible for procuring the orders from buyers globally.
Either the buyer can approach the company or the marketing team will present their
products at the world stage to receive orders. Thus, it is imperative to maintain reliable
and trustworthy relations with the vendors.
At Arvind Mills, Mysore road the marketing team is divided under three heads. The U.S.
team caters to the business interests in the states. The European team looks after the
buyers from the European countries while the Domestic team caters to the domestic
buyers.
Fabric Merchandiser is in charge of purchasing the fabric, for sampling as well as bulk
purposes. Trims Merchandisers are in charge of purchasing the trims. There are
different merchants for organizing interlining, thread, packing material, buttons and
zippers etc. The garment merchandiser then fills pattern request forms and sampling
request forms and executes the styles for sampling. Based on the issues that crop up
during sampling, changes are made, re submits are made over and over again, until the
required look and feel of the garment is achieved.
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CHAPTER 2. STORE DEPARTMENT
One of the major and important departments in any industries is the stores. The
department involved in purchasing the raw materials and required accessories and
keeps ready for production with a view not to suffer due to non-availability of materials
at these of actual requirement.
In the garment industry stores maintain fabric, trims and accessories record of all
incoming and outgoing materials is the responsibility of the stores.
Stores normally are the centralized section fabric storage for the unit after for
stabilization of the whole unit fabric is ordered by the sourcing department in
accordance with the requirement of the merchandiser for the export order. For job
orders store in charge of the respective unit are the responsible for the follow up for
placing the purchase order and the receipt in most cases or in other words the hierarchy
level of the stores is as follows in connection to the decision making. Figure 2.1 showing
the storage of fabric and trims.
Figure 2.1.Fabric and Trim storage
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Store at Arvind is divided into two sections:
Fabric Store
Trim Store
The fabric requirement of a particular order depends on its consumption. The

consumption varies with the style and size of the garment. The fabric store has a
capacity to store around 2-3 lacs meter of fabric. 95% of the fabric requirement is
procured from Arvind’s denim fabric unit at Naroda in Ahmedabad. Other mills that
provide fabric at times are Raymond’s, Ashima etc. Fabric is at times sourced from
Artistic Millers, Pakistan & Hong Kong.
The fabric is inspected using 4 – point defects system. As a norm 10% of fabric
received from Naroda unit is inspected. For other suppliers, 20% of rolls is inspected.
The merchandiser sends the Purchase order (PO) sheet to the fabric store head. The
required number of pieces (garments) is given in the sheet. After this the Fabric Cutting
Chart is received from the Cutting section head. In this chart the meters of fabric
required by the cutting room is given.
3 % is added as a waste percentage for fabric. 5 % is added for the rejection of

garments. Hence, a total of 8 % of the order quantity is added. This is the total quantity
of the fabric required to be ordered from the main stores.
Thus after all the required reports are received, the sub store in-charge maintains a
Fabric Package File. This package file contains several charts. They are:
Shade Band Approval: This chart is received from the merchandiser. This chart
contains various details regarding the shades of the fabric. Style no, Buyer,
Count and Construction, PO no, Received rolls, Color and code, Supplier Shade.
This chart contains a swatch of the different shades of the fabric and the code
given to them by the buyer and the store in-charge himself.
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Swatch Card: This card contains the details – Date, Design no, Style no, Count
and construction and buyer name. This card also contains the before and after
wash swatches and shade bands of the fabric.
Sample Card: Swatch and sample cards being the same, contains the defect
details that are present in the fabric. The common defects observed were:
Slub
Foreign yarn
Dye Patch
Stain
Face Card Approval: This card contains a swatch of the fabric showing the face
side of the fabric. Certain suppliers mark the face side of the fabric, however for
the rest for the fabric where the face side determination is not easy; the
merchandiser decides the face side of the fabric and marks it. This card is also
received from the merchandiser.
Fusing Details: The sub store also stores the fusing materials. They also maintain
the fusing details.
Shrinkage report: The package file also contains the shrinkage report. This is
received from the merchandiser.
Fabric Quality Inspection Summary: This sheet is received from the merchandiser
and is maintained in the package file.
After the fabric is ordered, the store in-charge maintains a Daily Fabric Status Report.
This report contains the details of the fabric ordered. That is, the quantity of the fabric
received and the quantity of the fabric that is yet to be received (Balance).
The store in-charge according to the quantity required and the availability of fabric in the
store, issues the fabric to the cutting section. Thus the store in-charge fills in the rest of
the form, the details – Quantity issued and Dept.
The fabric is issued in the FIFO order – First In First Out. That is, the fabric that is
received first from the main stores is issued first to the cutting section.
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The end – bits (left over bits of the fabric in the cutting room) were also being stored in
the sub store. The shrinkage bits were also being stored in the sub store.
The trims store maintains both garment materials and non-garment materials. Garment
materials such as thread, zipper, shank and rivet, snap buttons etc are to be sourced
as per buyer’s requirement before the actual production. Non-garment materials include
items such as stationary, hardware that assist production indirectly.
Primarily trim store ensures that there is no shortage of trims supply for the production.
First of all, the trims store in-charge receives the PO copy. This PO copy contains
various details such as the PCD Date, Sample Date, PCD Sample, Prototype Sample,
Order chart, RMR.
The trim store in-charge takes out only the Raw Material Status Report (RMR). This
report gives the details as to the which trims are to be received, the consumption per
garment, the required qty, the qty ordered, the qty received and the balance left to
receive.
There are 2 parts to the trims store.
o Stitching Part
o Packing Part
After the trims are received, they are checked and then an Inward Challan is made. In
the quantity ordered, 3% extra is always added as for wastage considerations.
The inspection of the trims and accessories is done by the supplier itself .Hence, when
the trims are received; they are only stored and issued to the production at the trims
store.
However, for buttons counting is done.
The trim store maintains a trim chart. In this chart are the details –
Fabric swatch
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fabric code
fabric color
Matching thread for the fabric
Labels
Buttons
Zippers
Rivets
Elastics
The store then receives the Requisition Slip which contains the details – material, Qty
indent (required), qty issued and the dept.
The trims and accessories are then issued to the required dept as per the required qty.
The packing part of the trims means the issuing of the trims at the packing stage to be
included in the packing. E.g.:- Packing polythene.
The next form filled is the Trim Order Completion Report (OCR). This form is filled by
the trims store head at the dispatch stage of the garment. It contains many details –
Materials, Consumption/garment, required, received, consumed, sent, total, balance,
physical balance.
This report basically gives the number of pieces of trims that were required and that
were received. It also gives the balance that should be left – (total – received quantity).
Store at Arvind is divided into two sections:
(i) Fabric store
(ii)Trim store
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CHAPTER 3.FABRIC STORAGE
Figure 3.1 Fabric Storage
Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its
merchandise such that fabric will be obtained as shown in figure3.1. It works in co-
ordination with the merchandising department and looks after the delivery of the
required goods within the scheduled time and cost. A fabric sourcing executive must
have knowledge about all varieties of fabric in order to execute their function effectively.
The fabrics are sourcing from Ahmadabad basically. The fabrics they are sourcing from
Arvind Textiles, Ahmadabad, Raymonds Textiles etc. The objective of the storage is to
store the fabric in efficient manner and issue the fabric for cutting. After storing the
fabrics in the storage, the QA team inspects the fabric by using 4 point system. For
Arvind fabrics, they checked 10% of the lots and for non-Arvind fabrics; they checked
20% of the lots. The defect points are also specified by the buyers like for Levis, the
average defect acceptance point is 18 points/ 100 sq. mt. individually and average
defects acceptance point is 14 points/ 100 sq mt (roll wise). For other brands the
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average DPT is 24 points / 100 sq. mt. individually and and roll wise 20 points / 100 sq.
mt.
For storing they are using racks as per the buyer requirements. Like for making Levis
garments, the fabrics must be stored in racks. For GAP, they put the rolls in Pyramid
way, so that every part of the roll gets same pressure during storing so that no
dimensional instability happen. For, Raymonds, they put the rolls in crisscross way.
Objective is that the Fabric will be stored for easy identification of shade, shrinkage,
width and P.O shown in figure3.4. Layout of the fabric storage is shown in shown in
figure3.2. The process flow of the fabric storage is from the fabric ordering till it is
received shown in figure3.3
LAYOUT
Figure 3.2.Layout Of Fabric Storage
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Process Flow:
Covering of Issuing the

Indent is given fabric with fabric to
by merchant polybag to cutting and
avoid dust sampling dept
Purchase Fabric is sored

Issue record is
Order is in racks or
maintained
prepared pallets
Details are fed Inspection of

in ERP softwre recieved rolls
'NOW' by 4 pt system
Packing List Shade/Shrinkag

Verification is e/CSV tests are
done done
Figure 3.3.Process Flow Of Fabric Storage
Figure 3.4.Sections Of Fabric storage
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1 m2 fabric from every lot is cut and sends to the laboratory for the performance test.
SO that,
One can know about the shrinkage and shade variation in the received fabric.
Shrinkage Test:
1m2 fabric is marked to find out the shrinkage with the help of marker plate in which
marking is done at 15, 30 and 45 cms. Then, same samples are stitched together in the
form of tube. The tube is sent for washing. After washing the shrinkage is measured.
Shade Test:
Shade grouping is done.
The washed fabric is placed on 45 degree and D65 light source is applied. And then
the Shade variation is measured.
After the test, shade numbers are given to the rolls.
The data of the shrinkage of every roll is stored in the database and is provided to the
sampling department during the creation of pattern and production of samples.
We need to be careful in the shade identification thus a standard protocol needs to be

followed (shown in figure3.5)
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Instructions for shade segregation at fabric store
Figure 3.5 shade segregation details

END
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Fabric inspection
 Complete visual inspection is being done. There is no systematic recording.

 Defects like weaving or colored patta are recorded without measuring the
dimension of the defects.
 If fabric inspection is not done carefully, so there are chances that all defects
may not to be recorded.
 Fabric inspection reports are at the discretion of the operator only.
 Defects are recorded at the end of the inspection, as this may lead to mistakes.
 Fabrics coming in lots are not taken for a second inspection.
 The 4-point inspection system is followed for the fabric inspection.( shown in
figure3.6)
4 POINT SYSTEM
Size of the defect Penalty Points

Defects up to 3 inches 1
3 inches < Defects < 6 inches 2
6 inches < Defects < 9 inches 3
Defects more than 9 inches 4
Holes and Openings 4
Table no. 3.1. “4 point inspection”
Unit – points / 100 sq. yards
Formula – (total pts. In the roll x 36 x 100) / Fabric length in yards x width in inches
Major defects that are encountered are: -

1. Weaving
2. Dyeing (patta, center, selvage, streaks)
3. Prints (print repeat, pattern/ design, choke ups) etc.
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A maximum of four points is charged to one linear yard. In this system the length of the
defect is measured to determine the penalty points. The four-point system provides for
the evaluation of the fabric on either a linear yard or square yard basis. As the fabric
with more width, will have more area. Or we can say that a 72” wide fabric will have
twice the area when compared to a 36” wide fabric. As the area of the fabric is more,
this is obvious that the fabric will contain twice the number of defects.
When rolls are checked according to this system and points are calculated. This again
is a matter of agreement with buyer’s clothing manual. Some buyers working on low
price prints can accept fabric with DHU as high as 40-44 points.
1) 20-25 points – Acceptable with most buyers
2) 25 & above 35 – Discussed with buyer & decided.
3) 35 & above – Normally considered as reject

Accepted rolls of fabric are then sent to the cutting room when the request for the fabric
comes. A standard procedure is followed for inspection shown in figure3.7
Figure 3.6.Fabric Inspection Process
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Flow Chart - Fabric Audit Flow chart
Kept on the rack

for further
process
Figure 3.7.Process Flow of Fabric Storage
 PROBLEMS AND DEFECTS IN THIS DEPARTMENT : OUR OBSERVATIONS

During storage, shade/shrinkage/width are not considered.
No special storage for the fabric which are more stretchable.
Nap direction and grain line are not considered during storage.
Fabric relaxation is not done here.
Racks are used for Levis only.
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CHAPTER 4 TRIMS STORAGE
Figure 4.1.Trim Storage
This department is similar to the Fabric storage department but the main difference is
that the fabric storage department works for sourcing the fabrics alone as shown in
figure 4.1 while the purchasing department works for the sourcing of accessories and
trims. However, the working procedure is the same. The working is as follows:
The merchandisers give the tech pack and the BOM (Bill Of Materials) for a particular
style to the purchasing department and the concerned person starts the further process
and for costing purposes the in-house price is given like, the cost involved in the
production and also the price involved for a unit involved with respect to the complete
procedure involved for its production.
After the order is being confirmed by the buyer the merchandiser will sit with the other
concerned departments and then the exact quantity required and the breakup of the
trims and accessories with respect to color, size, MOQ, etc., is given by the
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merchandiser to the purchasing department in the form of a sheet which is generally
followed in the industry for all the orders irrespective of the buyer.
This department also keeps in track of all the quantities received in-house timely. The
goods are generally received in breakups as suggested by the merchandiser according
to the requirements stated by the planning and the production department and this
breakups will have specified date and quantity and if this breakups is not being
mentioned then the order is being placed with the supplier several times for small
quantities and PO’s have to be sent all the time so, in order to overcome this breakups
are given. Then the purchase department has to follow up with the supplier for
deliveries as and when the merchandiser asks for the new set of the materials for that
particular style and then the department also has to maintain the receipts and also they
have to maintain the documents of the inspections that are being carried out for those
materials.
Objective: Buying and storage of trims and issuing them to the finishing dept and
sampling dept. Layout shown in figure4.2 and the process flow shown in figure4.3.
LAYOUT
Figure 4.2.Layout Of Trim Storage
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PROCEDURE:
Inspection of If OK, document

Purchase request Disposal plan for
recieved material material
from merchant unused trims
as per AQL 2.5 approved
Make MRN with TCR details

Purchase order
Trims card location and informed to
prepared by
prepared details are fed in concerned
purchase dept
SAP persons
Counting & Materials with

Material delivery Submit invoice to
handover to trim cards are
by supplier accounts
storage dept sent to issue area
Goods recieved at Storage a/c buyer Issued to the

stores after If OK, entry in wise with factory stores by
Invoice inward register approved trim cross checking
verification cards with PRPO
Figure 4.3.Process of Trim Storage
Functions
- Negotiation of prices, quality, delivery place and time with the supplier
- Prepare proposals according to the buyer’s requirement
- Selection of supplier for order
- Co-ordination with the merchandiser, supplier, and finance department
- Store the trims and accessories with approved trim card and issue to the factory
departments.
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Lead time for Trims and Accessories
The lead time is divided in two parts:
1. Production Lead-time 2. Transit Lead-time
In case of domestic accessories, the production lead-time is 7-10 days and the transit
lead-time is 2 days.
In case of imported accessories, the production lead-time is 3-4 weeks and the transit
lead time is
7-10 days for air and 20-30 days for sea.
QUALITY CHECKINGS
- Thread- color, tex. , shade against shade card, verify with other boxes.
- Zipper- teeth color, size, tape color, slider shape, slider movement, logo
- Labels- care instructions, size, center out, color, barcode numbers
- Elastic- width, color, holes, stretch ability, shrinkage
- Price ticket- style no, barcode no, size, price, centre out, content
- Buttons- types, holes, shape, logo, color, line/size, M/D test
- Poly Bag- size, caution print, print direction, thickness, print quality, sealing
Quality Indicators: Green - accepted, Red – Rejected
Man Power: 1 store in-charge, 1 assistant, 1 quality controller, 6 issuer, 3 helper.
Problems And Defects In This Department: Our Observations
Item wise bin cards or item wise stock in system is not available.
Quality checking area and quarantined product’s area is very small.
Needles and labels are not kept safely, i.e. in cupboard and cotton bin
box respectively.
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CHAPTER 5. LABORATORY
Functioning of the Department
The laboratory in the factory is equipped with all the necessary devices and instruments
that are required for the testing of both the fabric and the accessory items. But, there
are several tests which the buyer prescribes for which the machineries are not available
in the factory for such tests the factory does not have the right machineries so they send
such fabrics or accessories, which requires some other tests to the external laboratories
which are authorized ones with the buyers and the merchant’s approval.
The laboratory generally keeps in touch with three major departments. The departments
and their main functions and applications with the laboratory are as follows.
(i) Fabric sourcing department
The fabric sourcing department sends the samples of fabrics that have to be ordered
later may be for sampling, pilot or for the bulk production. The sourcing department as
soon as it receives the fabric swatches from the supplier they will select the fabrics
which they require for the particular style and then order for a few meters and then after
they receive the small amount then they sent it to the laboratory along with the tests that
are to be carried out for that particular fabric sample. The list of tests that the sourcing
department generally asks for are as follows.
Yarn count
Construction of fabric
Color fastness to washing
Color fastness to crocking
Dimensional stability to washing
Fabric strength (tearing and bursting)
Fabric weight
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(ii) Accessory Stores
The stores receives the raw materials in-house and after this they sampling process
starts and then they have to make a list of the tests that are supposed to be carried out
for that particular accessories and then they send this to the laboratory. The lists of tests
that are generally done for accessories are as follows:
Button breaking test

Colored laces and tapes are tested for color fastness
Color fastness test for elastics
Lining fabrics for their dimensional stability
Corrugated box
(iii) Merchandising Department:
The merchandising department keeps in touch with the laboratory for the general tests
which has to be carried out on the garment samples which are termed as lab dips. The
garment sample is sent to the laboratory with a list of tests that has to be carried out as
per the buyer specifications.
After the tests are been carried out and the results are received then the garment fabric
samples are sent to the external laboratory for tests to be carried out if the buyer
specifies.
Any of the three departments mentioned above, whenever they have to give a
fabric/accessory/garment sample for the testing purpose to the lab then they generally
send it in a format sheet which includes the style number, buyer name, specifications of
the particular material with respect to the composition, construction, material type, color
and other material related details which will help the lab technicians while carrying out
the tests.
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The duration which the lab takes to finish the tests depends on several factors like
Type of test
Urgency of the task
Whether the test has to be carried out internally or externally
Duration of the tests that has to be carried out
Time required in getting the proper and the required output
Number of samples that has to be tested
Generally, as soon as the laboratory receives the sample and the specifications from
any of the departments they proceed on priority basis. If the results are required very
soon and the tests does not involve any kind of long process then that particular sample
is taken first and then tested and sent back within a day, suppose the sample received
involves more number of tests and tests which involve long processing then such tests
takes time about 2 – 3 days and then after receiving the proper output they note down
the readings in the record and then send it the concerned department form where they
received.
Objective:
Tests are done on the fabric and trim to know their properties, strengths and reaction
towards certain chemicals shown in figure5.1 and send the shade and shrinkage reports
to the pattern making section.
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PROCESS FLOW
Start
Fabric Sourcing Accessory stores Merchandising
Test Test Carry on test

on fabric and
garment as per
buyer
Skew Appearance requirement
Attachment
Tensile strength
strength test On meeting
buyer
Dimensional requirement,
stability to Color fastness samples to be
washing test and elastic sent to lab to
get approval
Stretch and
recovery Lining fabrics
Color fastness to
washing/ crocking/ Dimensional
water/perspiration Stability
pH measurement
Fabric Weight
End
Figure 5.1.Tests Performed In Lab
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Fabric Performance Test (FPT):
(i) Shrinkage Test:
- They have to cut samples of 15 cm X 15 cm or 30 cm X 30 cm or 45 cm X 45

cm
- Then, same samples are stitched together in the form of tube and sent for
washing.
- Then the samples are sent for washing and after washing, the lab team take
the measurements and note down the shrinkage %.
- The tests are done two times and average is taken from it and according to
that percentage, the patterns are modified.
(ii) Shade Test:
- Shade grouping is done.

- The washed fabric is placed on 45 degree and D65 light source is applied.
- Shade variation is measured.
- These test reports are sent to the sampling dept. where using CAD, the
patterns are created with the allowances.
(iii) Skew Test:
- Skew - When weft yarns are straight from one end to another end but angled
across the width of fabric.
- Skew % = (Angular division / full width of fabric) x 100
(iv) Tensile strength test:
- Sample needed = 6 x 4 inches

- Gauge length = 3 inches
- The sample is attached between the jaws of the machines and stretched until
the sample gets distorted. Then the reading is taken at that time.
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(v) Tearing strength test:
- Tearing strength is the force required to tear a fabric.

- Sample size = 100 x 75 mm
- Testing area = 43 mm
- According to the template, the fabric sample is cut. Pendulum lever is there
- After placing the fabric, the pendulum is left for the free fall.
- Pendulum weight = 6400 grams.
- Tearing strength (grams) = Pendulum reading (%) x 64
(vi) Color Fastness to crocking:
- Crocking means rubbing.

- The sample is placed on the machine and it is rubbed by the machine for 10
times.
- Sample size = 5x5 cms.
- After rubbing, generally some amount of color goes.
- Then according to the grey scale, the color is matched.
Grey scale = 5 / 4-5 / 4 / 3-4 / 3 / 2-3 / 2 / 1-2 / 1
- According to the buyer specification, the points are measured.

- This test is done on both dry and wet specimens.
(vii) Seam Properties:
- Sample size = 14 x 4 inches

- Gauge length = 6 inches
- For this test, the machine used for tensile strength is used.
- Standard = 11 stitches /inch
- Reading is calculated when the fabric is teared up to 6 inches.
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(viii) Weighing balance:
- GSM is calculated through this test.

- A GSM cutter (diameter=11.3cm) is also there to cut the sample needed.
(ix) Stretch and Recovery test:
- Sample size (in cms) = (5 x 22), (4 x 22), (3 x 22 ), (2 x 22), (1 x 22)

- These 5 specimens are taken for this test.
- The sample is held on one end of the equipment.
- At the other end, according to the sample, weight is hanged.
- Sample is stretched up to a certain limit.
- Then the fabric regains its normal structure.
- Stretch percentage is measured on the meter.
(x) Color Fastness to perspiration
- For this test acidic and basic solutions are formed.
Acidic solution= 0.5 of alhestidine mono hydrochloride dehydrate + 5gms NaCl + 2.2
gms Sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dehydrate
Basic solution = 0.5 of alhestidine mono hydro chloride dehydrate + 5gms NaCl +
2.2 gms Sodium di hydrogen ortho phosphate dehydrate + NaOH (0.1 Normality until
the pH becomes 8)
- Multifibre sample = 10 x 5 cms (acetate + nylon+ cotton+ polyester+acrylic+

wool)
- 2 Garment sample +2 Multifibre Sample are overlapped.
- The 2 overlapped samples are dipped in the acidic and basic solution
respectively for 30 min.
- After 30 min, the samples are squeezed and are placed between the acrylic
plates and 5 kg wt. and put inside the oven for 4 hrs.
- Then the variation in the color due to acidic and basic solution is matched
with the actual fabric.
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(xi) Color fastness to water:
- Same process is done for this test.

- But except the acidic and basic solution, Grade- 3 water (distilled water) is
used.
(xii) pH measurement:
Done after the color fastness tests.
American Standard
- Sample size - 5.5mm/10gm

- Boiled in beaker at 90 – 92 degree C. Add 10 gms sample and leave it
for 10 min.
- Leave for cooling.
- Remove the sample and put this water in the pH measuring container in
which electrode is inserted.
- The pH meter will show the pH of the fabric.
European Standard
- 3 samples are tested.

- Normality KCl or Grade 3 water is the medium which are taken in 3
conical flasks in which 3 samples of 2gms each are dipped.
- They are placed on Textile lab shaker for 2 hrs (rpm30). It shakes the
solutions in which the samples are placed.
- Then, the solution is directly put in the pH meter which shows the pH.
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Fabric Performance Test (FPT):
(xiii) Attachment Strength Test: (trims)
- In this test, the strength of the attachments are checked. For example,
strength of
shanks, rivets, buttons, loops, kids decoration items are checked.
- Universal Unit – kg (unit is dependent on buyer)
U.S standard = 16 lbs
European standard = 19N/10 sec
(xiv) Appearance after wash:
- This test is related to the appearance of the garment after washing process.
- The fabric is just observed properly and changes are noted down.
(xv) Dimensional Stability:
- Dimension of the fabric is measured before washing.

- The fabric piece is sent to the washing department.
- Again the dimension of the fabric is measured.
- The changes in the dimensions of the fabric show how stable they are.
 PROBLEMS AND DEFECTS IN THIS DEPARTMENT : OUR OBSERVATIONS
Lots of machines are there. So, direction or procedures for using the
machine should be pasted.
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CHAPTER6.SAMPLING AND PATTERN MAKING
Figure 6.1.CAD and Sampling Department
In any export house, the sampling department shown in figure6.1 is one of the most
important departments and it plays a vital in the uplifting of a unit. Sampling department
directly co-ordinates with the merchandising and production department. Sampling is
done to see how the product will look like when produced in bulk and to check whether
there are any discrepancies in the pattern are made according to the buyer’s
specification.Merchandiser procures order from the buyer. The buyer sends spec sheet,
sketches, fabric details, embellishment details, stitch type etc to the merchandiser.
Merchandiser files this information along with the details regarding costing, average,
proto, fit, correction,size set and approval in to a style package and hands it over to the
Sampling department head. Sampling is the product development stage. It is a process
by which a small number of garments are made so as to match the buyer requirement
and to get approval from the buyer so as to start off the production. The sample
garments represent the accuracy of the patterns and quality of production skills and
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techniques. The samples not only serve the purpose of communicating correctly with
the buyer regarding their styles and products, but it also helps to calculate the fabric
consumption along with that of thread and other accessories used. It is different from
bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled. This department makes samples on
the basis of specifications and requirements sent by the buyer in the tech pack.
Sampling is basically the process of producing few garment in order to match the
various buyer requirements such as the design features, size, style etc. as soon as any
order is received the tech pack is handed over to the sampling department and various
samples of the product are developed in order to get the orders confirmed from the
buyer.
When the product is in the sampling stage, the buyer might suggest few alternations or
changes as per the appearance and fit of the garment and the requirement of the style
which are incorporated in the further samples and finally a green tag sample is made
and approved by the buyer which is the actual representation of the product and handed
over to the production floor as a guide for the operators to be followed while the bulk
production is going on.
In these stage, the company checked the feasibility of the garment whether it is
affordable or not and the company have the machineries to do the operations to make
that particular style of garment.
Though sampling is a costly procedure but it identifies the various problems which might
be faced during the bulk production if sampling is not done.
This department makes the samples of DENIM (Jeans) and KNITS (T-shirts & Lingerie).
But the company only does bulk production of Denim. After getting knits approval from
buyer, the bulk productions of knits are done in other units.
Layout of sampling and pattern making department shown in figure6.2
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Figure 6.2.Layout of Sampling Department
TYPES OF SAMPLES
DEVELOPMENT SAMPLE
PROTO SAMPLE
FIT SAMPLE
WASH SAMPLE
SALESMAN SAMPLE (SMS)
SEALER /PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE
SIZESET SAMPLE
TOP OF PRODUCTION SAMPLE
PILOT RUN SAMPLE
GARMENT PACKAGE TEST (GPT)
SHIPMENT SAMPLE
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 DEVELOPMENT SAMPLE -
Sample before Proto Sample.

Measurements are checked in this sample.
 PROTO SAMPLE –
The first sample made after order confirmation is Proto sample. This sample is
made of the closest matching fabric and trims and is for the purpose of identifying the
overall look of the style and to obtain a clear understanding of the style. The garment is
produced in the base size (32, 30, 34) as asked by the merchandiser. 2-3 pieces are
made for proto sample one for
SMS (color wise) and other for Presentation sample.
 FIT SAMPLE –
Comments from the merchandiser are received regarding the shape, size and
fullness. Fit sample is based on the measurement list. Only base size given by the
buyer is made and fit is checked on mannequins. This sample is also done on the
substitute fabric as proto sample.
The main factors that are considered are:
A. Perfect style.
B. Quality.
C. Measurement.
Different buyers have different fits, based on which samples are requested in each fit.
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 WASH SAMPLE –
After wash a sample is send to the buyer then approval or comment procedure is
taken by them. Then according to comments of buyer changes are done.
 SALES MAN SAMPLE –

These samples are made for the purpose of testing customer reaction to the various
styles in various colors. In many cases these samples are placed indifferent retail stores
and based on the average reaction, the buyer places orders for bulk production. At the
factory the salesman samples are referred to as mini bulk.
 SEALER SAMPLE OR PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE –

Sealer sample is sent back by the buyer after the approval of size set sample. Seal
is attached on this sample and it is maintained in the production department, finishing
department and QA for the requirements and the quality parameters. Once the sealer
sample is received industry is not allowed to make any changes in the garment and this
sample should only be followed as the standard for production.
 SIZE SET SAMPLE –

In this stage of sampling, actual fabric is used to stitch the garment. If the fit sample
is approved, buyer size set is produced in all colors and all sizes.
 Original trims and accessories are used.

 Four sets each of size are made.
 If not approved then again size set is made.
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 TOP OF PRODUCTION SAMPLE –

The buyer Q.A. picks up one size or all set of sizes from the first bulk production. It
is considered to be the perfect sample with respect to all sizes and all colors. In the
base size the sample produced should be double.
One set to the buyer.

One set as a counter with the merchant.
IF NOT APPROVED, then again top sample is produced.
IF APPROVED, then bulk production of the garment starts.
 PILOT RUN SAMPLE-

25 pieces are cut in each color and each size. 5-5 pieces on each size and each
color are offered to the buyer’s QI’s.
 SHIPMENT SAMPLE-
Before the shipment buyer Q.A. picks up the carton randomly and checks for the
quality.
Shipment can only happen after of the approval over shipment sample.
Role of Q.A in sampling department:
Tech packs review.

Pattern check against tech pack (construction, no. Of parts, seam allowance,
grain line.)
Check print & embroidery, placement of color (according to tech pack).
Check trims against tech pack. (Thread, label, trim fabric).
He tells the stitching guidance to the supervisor against the tech pack.
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Review final spec. sheet.
The Details Attached to the Garment Sample

After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details
attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the
buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if
applicable).
Ref no.
Color
Fabric
Composition
Description
Quantity
Style no/ Size
Store
In the sampling department, there are many sub divisions i.e.
CAD Section which consists of Pattern making and grading, Marker making and
printing the pattern and cutting of that pattern.
CUTTING Section where patterns are traced on the fabric and cut accordingly by
cutters.
SEWING Section where the cut parts of the fabric are stitched and become a full
garment
TRIMMING Section where the garments are trimmed after wash and trims are
attached to it.
INSPECTION Area where the quality checkers are checked the garments. The
checking is done before wash and after wash also.
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CAD SECTION
In this section, the pattern masters are asked to make pattern as per the buyer
requirements. From pattern making to printing, the company uses the CAD software.
There are two types of buyers –
One who give the pattern block and tech pack which consists of all the detailed
information about the garment (style, measurements, fabric details, trim details,
shrinkage % etc), this type of pattern is called buyer block. Only reputed buyers like
Levis send the buyer blocks to the company and for this type of block they pattern
master need not to change the pattern and they only do grading and make marker of
the patterns and get the print out.
Other type of buyers who give only the measurements and tech pack where they
only mentioned about the fabric and trims details as well as the style. These patterns
are called block pattern. For this type of patterns, the pattern masters have to make
the patterns by CAD software with the measurements the buyer given. And for these
type of buyer, the department do shrinkage test and give the details to the pattern
masters. According to that shrinkage % the masters changes the patterns.
Sometimes, some buyers gives wrong measurements, for that the company gives
some suggestions to that buyers and after discussion; the buyers accepted the
proposed tech pack or process given by the company.
PROCEDURE:
First, the pattern masters get the pattern indent issued by the merchant where all
the specifications given about the patterns. Along with patterns, the masters get the
tech pack where all the measurements are given.
Then according to the specification, they make the pattern (including notch mark,
darts etc) and add shrinkage as per the requirements on the CAD software.
They do the grading of the patterns then.
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After that they send the patterns to the marker making departments. The marker
makers make the marker by placing the patterns in such a way so that the marker
has the optimum utilization of patterns.
After that, the marker is sent for printing. Here in this section, the marker makers
gives the seam allowances and other details like GSM etc to the patterns and after
that it is printed by the plotter.
After that, they verify the patterns and send the patterns along with the ready
sample to the buyer. If the buyer changes some part or want some alteration, the
masters get the sample request again by the merchant and according to the
specification they changes the patterns.
The CAD Software used for making patterns and markers are:
A. GERBER TECHNOLOGY (ACCUMARK Pattern Design Software) – mother

software using it since 12 years. It is windows based software; satisfy their most
demanding design and production requirements. AccuMark provides seamless
integration with Gerber’s automated spreading, cutting and PLM systems for more
effective work order management – helping customer to improve efficiency and
optimize results.
B. LECTRA CAD SOFTWARE more complicated than Gerber and it is dos based
software. At the crossroads of design and production, patterns made by Lectra
drives brand consistency in terms of fit and look.
C. TUKA TECH provides 2D as well as 3D pattern making and design technology.

TUKA cad has multi-tasking & Multi-user operation ability, built-in e-mail &
Automatic data maintenance. Also, it features Digitizing, First Pattern Design,
Pattern Alterations, Auto patterns, Grading, Style Definitions & Various other
features. The company recently use the trial version of TUKA 3D, from 2 months.
Now they are thinking to implement it. The 3D software has the automatic dummy
facility which helps in see the fit and fall of the pattern by inserting the pattern to the
dummy.
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GRADING: After pattern making, the grading is done to the patterns. Grading is the
process of creating a range of sizes for a single style. Grading a pattern is a way of
sizing a pattern up (or down) while maintaining the proportions of the original pattern.
MARKER MAKING: A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces

for sizes of a specific style that are to be cut from in one spread. Marker making is the
process of determining a most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a style, fabric and
distribution of sizes. Marker making is done by CAD systems which give accuracy,
increase control over variables and reduces time required in making markers. The
efficiency of marker making in the CAD section is 85% - 87%. Size set marker consists
of different size of same style of garment. For different type of appearance of fabric,
they use different markers like solid marker (one way, two way directions), stripes,
checks, colors.
Each marker contains certain annotation like:-
Piece name
Size
Bundle Number
Buyer
Work Order Number
Cut Number
PLOTTING: The plotter is a computer printer for printing vector graphics. Plotters were
used in applications such as computer-aided design. A plotter gives a hard copy of the
output. It draws pictures on paper using a pen. After getting the marker request from the
maker making section, they give the allowances and put the details about the fabric like
GSM, style no. etc on the pattern block and print it by the plotter. In this section, there
are two types of plotter. One is used only for print the markers. And the other one is the
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automatic cutter plotters which prints the marker cut the patterns simultaneously which
are used in cutting section of sampling department. The patterns cut manually also.
Advantages of CAD-
Wastage reduction
Minimum time consumption
Increased accuracy
Reduction in labor cost
PROBLEMS FACED DURING USING OF THE SOFTWARE:
They faced some problems when a complicated style has come. For that the company
makes a knock off of the garment or style and check the feasibility. And if they faced
software problems they directly mailed to the software manufacturing company and that
company upgrades the software and solves the problems. Manpower: 2 CAD
managers, 11 pattern masters, 1 data operator, 1 coordinator, 3 trimmers.
Figure 6.3.Cutting Section of Sampling Dept.
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After printing the marker and cutting those patterns shown in figure6.3, the ready
patterns are come to the cutting section of sampling department. Here, the cutters
check the measurements of the patterns and match it with the sample indent. The
fabrics in small amount are then issued by the storage as per the requirement of sample
indent given by the merchant. After that the fabrics are kept for 4 hours approximate for
fabric relaxation to maintain the dimensional stability of produced garments. After that
the cutter spread the fabric manually for cutting and placed the pattern on it. The length
of the lay will be depending on the no. of patterns and the length of the patterns of a
single size of a particular style. The no of lay is depending upon the requirements of
buyers. It can be vary from 1 to 20 no. of lays. 20 lays are basically made for the
salesman’s sampling. After spreading manually, they traced the pattern on that fabric
and cut accordingly by using straight knife and round knife. During the cutting, they also
cut the notch marks. After that the parts will go for sewing.
The output per day in cutting section is 40 – 50 garment parts / day.
In the cutting section, DENIM and KNITS (t-shirts) are cut and go for sewing.
Manpower: 3 Cutters, 4 pattern selector & fabric selector.
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SEWING SECTION IN SAMPLING
Figure 6.4.Sewing Section Of Sampling
When the fabric is cut, the next process is sewing process shown in figure6.4. For
sewing the modular system is using here. One worker is producing the full garment i.e.
He/she is attaching all parts of the garment and only for specialized technique there are
other workers to do that particular operation. One worker is producing average 2 – 3
garments per day. Total output of sewing section is 70 – 100 garments / day (approx).
The numbers of sewing machine are: 40 [34 sewing machines + 6 specialized

machines]
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Loading plan:
This is a plan given to the sewing dept. for the stitching purpose. According to the
loading plan, the supervisor assigns the jobs to the workers and stitching is done.
STITCHING STEPS FOR PRODUCING DEMIN JEANS
STEPS MACHINES
Divide cut parts. Manually
Front fly stitching, front rise 3 thread overlock
Back yoke stitching, back rise Feeder form DNLS
Back pockets hem DNLS overlock
Attaching the back pockets on the back SNLS
panel
Pocket bag stitching ( Scoop pockets) DNLS overlock
Attaching facing to the bags 3 thread flat lock
Front coin pocket attachment DNLS overlock
Attaching back panel DNLS
Front rise (J – stitch) on the fly and one SNLS
more stitch on it
Double fly attachment (right side front
placement)
Button / Zipper placement on the fly Manually
Front rise ( to get clean finish) DNLS overlock (distance between two
needles is 1/8 ”)
Inseam attachment FOA (DNLS) / 5 thread Overlock / DNLS
(distance between two needles is 1/8 ”)
Side seam attachment 3 thread overlock for open finish or 5
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thread overlock for close finish
Side lock stitch DNLS (distance between two needles is
3/16”, 1/8 ”, ¼” according to the style )
Side seam busted chain stitch Chain stitch machine S.P.I = 10, width =
½” , 3/8”
Bottom hem SNLS or Chain stitch machine S.P.I = 10
–8
Width= 3/8”, 5/8”, ½”, 7/8”, 1”, 2”
according to the style
Waistband attaching [waist band width = Manually / specialized machine
1” i.e. the width of the waistband panel is (automatic)
2”]
Waist band loop DNLS flat lock (distance between two
needles is 1/4 ”) or DNLS (distance
between two needles is 1/8 ” – 3/8”)
Buttonhole (kasa or keyhole), bar tack Specialized machines
Table 6.1.Stitching Steps for Denim jeans
After all the operation, the denims are then trimmed and sent to washing department for
washing of garment to get desired shade and style specified by the buyers. After wash
the garments are directly come to the sampling department for further process.
Manpower: 30 workers, 1 supervisor, 1 in-charge.
FINISHING SECTION IN SAMPLING
After washing, the samples are coming to finishing section that is also called as
trimming sections. Here the threads are trimmed from the garment. And the rivets,
shanks, buttons, tags etc. are attached with the garments. After that, the garments are
sent to the inspection area for the quality checking.
Man power: 4 workers, 1 in-charge
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INSPECTION AREA IN SAMPLING
After stitching, the garments are come to the inspection area for stitching quality
checking of the garments. The quality checkers inspects the garment and matches it
with the sample indent. If there is any problem in stitching or cutting or measurements,
they send the garment for remaking. If the sample is ok it is sent for washing.
After washing, the samples are coming to sampling department for trimming and after
that it is sent to inspection area for checking. The checkers check the small detailing
about the garment like shade %, measurements etc. 100% checking of the samples are
done here.
Manpower: 6 quality checkers
The quality parameters they checked here:
 Grain line
 Sample indent information
 Shade
 Shrinkage %
 Measurements
 Tech pack
 The placement of the panels, Pockets, zippers, buttons, rivets, tags etc.
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CHAPTER 7. CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Figure 7.1.Cutting Department
Cutting department shown in figure 7.1 is the first step to production. After getting the
bulk order from the buyers, the fabrics are sourced and kept into the storage. The
cutting department then gets the cutting request from the merchant and they send fabric
request to the storage department and after that the storage department issues the
fabric. The objective of the cutting department is to spread the fabric lays, cut the
garment panels according to the marker provided and sort, number and bundle the
panels. The major cost of the garment is the fabric, accounting for almost 60% of the
total cost so it becomes very essential that actual usage of fabric is slightly controlled by
scientific method and procedures. Layout of the Cutting Department is shown in
figure7.2
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In this department, desired layers are cut using straight knife machines, band knife
machines and automatic cutting machines. The number of patterns cut depends upon
the length of the fabric lay and making patterns of the layers. Once the cutting
operations are finished, immediately the cut parts go to next operations.
Objective:
Cutting according to the master patterns with 100% accuracy.

Ensuring 100% quality in cutting.
100% issue of all the parts to sewing section.
The S.O.P is shown in figure7.3 and the activity flow is shown in figure7.4
followed in the cutting department.
LAYOUT
Figure 7.2.Layout Of Cutting department
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Standard Operation Procedure
yes
Is correction required?
Randomly check the fabric while
Spreading for:
Marker edge parallel to selvedge.
Alignment of fabric
Tension
Make alternate patterns Count
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A
Feed to sewing floor as

required
Figure 7.3.The Process Flow In Cutting Dept.
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ACTIVITY FLOW:
Marker Knee level

Embroidery
Making marking
Fabric Cut Panel

Fusing
relaxation auditing
Spreading Numbering Sorting
Labelling Cutting Bundeling
Figure 7.4. Activity Flowchart of the Cutting Dept.
 MARKER MAKING:
CAD software is used for marker making as well as pattern making. The software used
here is Lectra, Astor, Gerber. Using CAD, grading is also done if required. The patterns
are not created here. The sampling department sends the patterns to the cutting
department, and with those patterns, the pattern masters in CAD section create the
marker. The marker is then made combining patterns of different sizes. Efficiency of the
marker changes with the shape of the patterns. After marker making, the plotter give the
print out of that marker which is going to use for cutting that particular style. The
average efficiency is 85%.
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SOFTWARE - GGT- GERBER, LECTRA, ASTOR
VERSON- 8.5, 8.2
ROLES OF PATTERN MAKER-
PATTERN DESIGN
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
MARKER PLANING
PATTERN DESIGN
The department receives a pattern request form sampling department every time a
new pattern is to be made.
Every time there is a change or amendment in the pattern, the pattern version
alphabet is changed. For example from A to B.
There is a team that works exclusively on making templates for production.
DIGITIZING
Digitizing is done on an electronic digitizing board by pasting pattern pcs on it.
The digitized patterns are amended, graded and used for making costing markers
also bulk production markers.
This is the pattern that is used for making templates also.
Amendments are then made on this digitized pattern and directly printed; this
reduces work of manual pattern maker as well as improved department efficiency.
There is an input menu on the board, which is used to digitize pattern pieces.
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Development of product is made according to requirement of buyer.
Example- Development of - Patches on pocket position, Yoke high, Pocket high,
Side Seam/stitch label.
MARKER PLANING
 Marker planning is done to reduce wastage of the fabric as well as use the
available fabric most efficiently.
 Auto marker is used on software REDTREE EAZY DESIGN.
There are 4 reasons by which marker planning may be increase or decrease:-
1. Comment of buyer.
2. Grain line.
3. Seam allowance
4. One way or two way direction map.
5. Parts jumbling
Manpower: 3
Fabric relaxation:
Figure 7.5.Fabric Relaxation
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After issuing the fabric from storage, the rolls are kept in the cutting department after
relaxation as shown in figure7.5. It is done for the following reasons:
- To produce quality product

- To get the dimension stability of the garment.
- To avoid the measurement changes after washing
Relaxation for the stretch material is for 24hrs.

Relaxation of the normal materials is for 10-12 hrs. Manpower: 10
SPREADING:
Figure 7.6.Spreading
Spreading shown in figure7.6 is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a

spreading table, cutting table or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting
department. A spread or layup is the total amount of fabric required by a single marker.
A spread may consist of Single ply or multiple plies the weight of the ply is limited by
fabric characteristics, size of the order to be cut, cutting method and vertical capacity of
the spreader. End cutters are used for spreading. After fabric relaxation for 24 hours,
the fabric is then spread on the table according to the nap direction of the fabric. For
denim spreading direction is FOW. The marker is spread over the lay and cutting is
done. The laying is done shade wise.
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Factors affecting spreading process:
Set up i.e. loading and threading fabric through the spreader.

Laying out of fabric: It involves laying out of fabric in desired no. of layers. i.e.
face up/down/face to face. Etc
First of all a thin brown paper sheet is spread on the cutting table using an
adhesive tape to prevent the bottom plies from shifting during cutting. Then the actual
spreading process begins with the laying of first fabric layer on this brown sheet and
subsequently the other plies are laid.
The spreading of this lay is done either manually or automatically by the spreading
Machine. While manual spreading is time consuming, the use of traveling machine
gives faster and more accurate results. The length of the lay depends upon the
dimension of the fabric & length of the marker as specified by the CAD. Whereas lay
height depends on the thickness of the fabric and the capacity of the cutting machine
on the thickness of the fabric and the capacity of the cutting machine.
Man Power: 8
DEFECTS:
o Slack tension: lesser problem contains excess fabric in each ply. Cutting a slack
spread may create over sized pieces. It causes in accuracies in assembling and
waste fabric.
o Ply alignment: accuracy with which fabric edges, both length and width are
aligned during spreading.
o Static electricity: results from friction among materials and spreading
equipment. Fabrics from manufactured fibers may have static problems.
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Problems occurrence
 Absentees or man power issues.
 Less spreading tables due to which 10-20 min is wasted. And within this time 10-15
layers can be spread.
 Machine repairs, wastage of 2-3 days.
 Delay in Relaxation due to roll delay.
Improvements
 Requirement of Extra spreading tables, by which delay in sequence operations can
be avoided
 Requirement of On-Spot Machine repairs.
 In time fabric roll has to be supplied, which helps in good relaxation & garment
quality.
 LABELLING:
The lay which is to be cut is labeled by stickers according to the pattern placement. It is
done bt the auto labeling machine. This makes the auto cutter to cut easily.
 CUTTING :
The lay is cut with the help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines or
CAM m/c. The machine is moved through the lay shown in figure7.7 following the
pattern lines of the marker and the reciprocating blade cut the pieces of the fabric
progressively. Notches are also added. For smaller components like collars, ribs etc.
that need high accuracy, band knife-cutting machine are used. It is a non-portable
cutting device, which cuts the fabric as it is passed across the blade. The garments are
kept aside as and when they are cut.
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STEPS:
o Laying marker, fixing lays with the help of gum tape
o Cutting
o Checking each panel or the bundle of each part
o Removing any one piece, checking size and then passing
o Bundling all parts of each sizes together
o Put serial number on each panel with the help of silver mark ink
o Group bundle of 20 pieces by using the rubber bands
o Maintain record of each bundle
o Load the bundles for sewing
Manpower: Cutting (7 people)
Auto cutter (2 people)
Re cutting (2 people)
Cutting loaders (2 people)
Figure 7.7.MorganTecnica, Labeling & cutting m/c
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 CUT PART AUDITING :
The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every
individual piece for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line,
inappropriate size, incorrect shape and any fabric defects like holes, cut, shade
variations etc. that are not within the acceptable quality parameters, are removed from
the cut lay. A cutting component checking report is filled for the total quality cut,
checked and approved. The rejected pieces are sent back and an equal number of
fresh panels are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed with the same number
as the rejected ones. Other mend able faults are marked with an alteration sticker and
passed on. This is spotted out during garment finishing or washing.
There are some common cutting defects. They are:

Miss notch
Selvedge
Uneven cut
Miss cut
Over notch
Shape off
Rugged cut
Man power: Panel checking (5 people)

Panel marker (4 people)
NUMBERING:
In this dept, all the cut parts are given the style number in series, to avoid the
mismatch during sewing and helps in increasing the production.
Man Power: 8 people
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 FUSING :
Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are
separated from the bundle. The fusing material is cut according to the size of the
components to be fused. The components along with the cut fusing material are kept
between two paper sheets and the pack is passed through the fusing machine. By
means of the temperature and the pressure fusing takes place at a particular speed
and for a particular time. Fabric is used to the fusing layer at the temperature of 70 0 C.
fusing machine has two rollers. First roller is heated 710 C and back roller at 700 C. the
fabric is passed through the machine and fabric get fused. The pack comes out at the
other end on the conveyors and the pieces are removed and re bundled.
Man power: Fusing (8 people)
Piping (2 people)
 EMBROIDERY:
Figure 7.8. Embroidery Section
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This operation shown in figure7.8 is optional, only for the certain style and if the buyer
asks for it. The capacity of this machine is 18 pieces at once. For embroidery, they take
a panel of the style where the embroidery needed, basically in back pockets. Then they
attach the panel to the frame. Frame size may vary from 9 to 45 sizes (9, 15, 18, 21, 45
sizes) as per the buyer’s requirements.
The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for
Embroidery as stated in the production process. Blocks of panels are sent for
embroidery, which are re-cut after receiving back. To avoid mixing of the patterns the
panels of the same size are stitched together temporarily before dispatch for the
embroidery.
Man Power: 2 people
 SORTING & BUNDLING:

As shown in figure 7.9 the pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size
wise. All the components of one garment size are bought together. It is very
important to take care that pieces cut from two different bolts (bundles) of fabric
are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are bolt-to-bolt variations in
the color shade. The sorted pieces are now ticketed. Ticketing is the process of
marking the cut components for shade matching precision, and sequence
identification. The worker secures one end of the stack and puts on the ticket
using ticket gun. The ticket contains the size, bundle number and piece number
and serves as important means to track the parts of the garment in the assembly
line from start to end.
Man Power: sorting (8 people)
Helpers (8 people)
Bundle movers (2 people)
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Figure 7.9.Numbering, Bundling & Audit sections
POWER CONSUMPTION:
On the floor: 20 fans, 120 lights
CAD section: 2 lights, 1 air condition, 4 computers, 1 plotter, 1 photocopy machine
Embroidery: 22 lights, 4 fans, 1 computer
FINDINGS:
As the automatic spreading machine is not in use, it creates problems for auto
cutting machine as the markers don’t spread lays equally along the selvedge and
the production is also less.
There should be another operator who knows to operate the auto spreading
machine.
Mobile rack is there, but not in use.
Cut parts are not stored according to the shade/shrinkage/width wise.
Shade wise ratio cutting is not done.
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CHAPTER 8.)SEWING DEPARTMENT
Figure 8.1.Sewing Department
OBJECTIVE: To produce the garment by sewing together the various pattern pieces of
that style in least possible time and least possible defects.
The dominant process in garment industry is sewing shown in figure8.1, still the best
way of achieving strength and flexibility in the seam itself as well as flexibility of
manufacturing method. Much of the application of technology to clothing manufacture is
concerned with the achievement of satisfactorily sewn seams.
It is basically divided into ten lines, one of which is dedicated to the training purpose and
others are dedicated for the production.
In between there are inspection tables , one after back section another one after front
section , next after waistband is stitched and last is the end of line checking. All of them
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are doing 100 % inspection as the operators are new and they are not consistent in
quality and thus increasing labor cost as well as throughput time of the garment.
Each line has a supervisor monitoring the production and trying to balance the line
himself, these are also not trained properly and thus are not confident on implementing
new suggestion in Layout or man power planning.
No floaters are kept for the handling of absenteeism. If absenteeism is there then
people from other lines are taken or people from the training line are taken.
The sewing process at the Mysore road plant is fully following the Progressive Bundle
System.
Description about line:
Denim floor consists of 14 sewing lines shown in figure 8.2 with 40-50 workstations
(sewing machines) in each line and in each line there are three check-points. Most
machines are from VI.BE.MAC, Italy and they have automated operations like Back
pocket creasing, hemming and attaching, Auto belt loop attach, Waist band attach
and bottom hemming.
The machines are arranged in straight line; hence progressive bundle system is
working.
There are two line are setup parallel to form a line.
There are two inline check-points (one check-point is put when the front is
complete and the other is put when the back is complete) and one end-line, when
the front and back are joined and the garment is complete.
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Figure 8.2.Sewing Lines
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Figure 8.3.Layout Of Sewing Lines
Each line of the sewing shown in figure 8.3 has got various operational breakdowns
which consist of workstations, checking tables, various sewing machines and auditing
tables. Figure8.4 gives the description about the S.O.P of the sewing department.
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CAPACITY DETAILS OF SEWING:
S.NO ITEM DETAILS
1 NO.OF.SEWING LINE 13
2 TYPE OF PRODUCTION STRAIGHT LINE / PROGRESSIVE

SYSTEM BUNDLE SYSTEM
3 NO.OF.MACHINES PER 40-48

LINE
4 NO.ON.OPERATORS/LINE 40-45
5 TOTAL 625
.NO.OF.OPERATORS
6 AVERAGE PRODUCTION 8300

/DAY
7 EFFICIENCY OF THE 40-45%

FACTORY
8 NO.OF.SUPERVISORS 14
9 NO.OF.PRODUCTION 2
MANAGER
Table No.8.1 Capacity Details of wet process
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Sewing Standard Operation Procedure
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A
Figure 8.4 Process flow of sewing
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OPERATION BREAKDOWN: Table No.8.2 Operational breakdown of sewing section
S. NO. OPERATION MACHINE WORK STATION
BACK
1 HEM BACK PKT MOUTH SNLS 1
2 DECO ST ON BK PKT SNLS 1
3 ATTACH BACK POCKET SNLS 2
4 TOP ST ON BACK POCKET SNLS 2
5 ATTACH BACKYOKE 5T O/L 1
6 TOP ST ON BACKYOKE FOA 1
7 ATTACH BACKRISE 5T O/L 1
8 TOP ST ON BACKRISE FOA 1
9 BARTACK ON BACK BT BROTHER 1
SCOOP PKT
10 HEM COIN PKT DNLS 1
11 ATTACH COIN PKT DNSB 1
12 CLOSE PKT BAG 5T O/L 2
FRONT
13 SERGE FRT FLY & FRT RISE 3T O/L 1
14 E/S ON LEFT FLT SNLS 1
15 SEW J’’ STITCH DNLS 1
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16 ATTACH FRONT RISE DNSL 1
17 ATT PKTBAG TO SCOOP SNLS 1
18 T/S ON SCOOP PKT DNLS 2
19 LOCK PKT BAG SNEC 1
ASSEMBLY
20 ATTACH INSEAM 5T O/L 2
21 TOP ST ON INSEAM SNCS 2
22 ATTACH SIDE SEAM 5T O/L 2
23 SEW CORD STITCH DNLS 2
24 BOTTOM HEM JUKI BTM 1
25 ATTACH LEBAL SNLS 1
26 ATTACH ELASTIC END SNLS 1
27 ATT W/B PNLS ENDS SNLS 1
28 STAY ST ON W/B SNEC 2
29 CLOSE W/B DNCS 2
30 JOINT & PREPARE LOOPS SNLS 1
31 LOOP ATTACH BT BROTHER 2
32 W/B END BACK SNLS 1
TOTAL 43
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Labeling
It is very important that consumers be given accurate information on how to take care
of their garments so they can make informed purchase decisions concerning the care
characteristics of competing products and the product damage caused by the improper
cleaning procedures can be avoided by consumers and cleaners alike. Some of the
care label shown in (figure 8.5) information’s are
1. Whether the item should be washed or dry cleaned

2. Whether the item is colorfast or should be washed separately
3. Whether it should be washed by hand or machine
4. Whether the item is permanent press or needs ironing
5. Whether it can be washed in hot water
6. The temperature setting for the iron : hot , warm, or cold
7. The type of bleach to use, whether chlorine or no chlorine.
8. Whether the item will shrink and how much.
Care instructions provided to consumers carry an implied guarantee that in all
respects a garment will stand up under the conditions of laundering or dry-cleaning
that are specified. This implied guarantee covers all component materials: their
colorfastness, appearance, dimensional stability, workmanship that is, the seams will
not open up or the garment loses its shape and so on. It also carries the style number
of the particular brand or garment and size of the garment.
Figure 8.5.Wash Care Label Standards Followed
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Machine types and the needles used in sewing
NEEDLE
M/C TYPE TYPE SIZE
Edge Cutter M/c DBx1 14,16,18
Single + Double Needle +
Kaj DPx5 11,14,16,18,21
Over Lock M/c DCx1 14,16,18,21
Flat Lock + FOA + Chain UYx128 /
Lock TV x3 14,16,18,19,20,21
UYx128 /
Pocket Setter + Deco M/c TV x3 MR 14,16,18,19,20,21
Waist Band TVx5 14,16,18,21
Kansai W/B Pocket Hem DVx57 14,16,18,21
Bar tack + Button + Welt
Pckt DPx17 14,16,18,21
Bottom Hemming UO180GS 14,16,18,21
keyhole kaja DOx558 14,16,18
(MR)
loop setter m/c DPx5 4.0,4.5
(MR)
pocket setting m/c TVx3 4.5,5.0
Saddle stitch CP x 12 21
Table No.8.3 Machine types and needles
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Reports:
There are various types of files and records maintained in the sewing section at different
stages. They are discussed below:
Line Balancing File

Hourly Production per Operator
Incoming Bundles
Hourly Production Line wise
Daily Production Line wise
Production status (Style wise)
Production and Attendance Details File
Daily Factory Status Report (DFSR)
Findings/Problems
 No Systematic machine sequence.

 Regular Machine problems.
 Cutting no feeding, due to which next operation is stopped.
 Trims delay.
 Electrical problem.
 Absentees.
 Others – delay from embroidery in the pocket section.
 Pocket decoration thread breakages due to low quality.
 Back pocket attach – Needle problem.
 Pocket special machine- Stopped due to no feeding and facing mark.
 Frequent Operators change.
 Top edge cutter – Q placement.
 In FOA- Skeep, thread cutter, holder problem.
 In double needle – Trimming problem, thread breakage due to time setting not
proper.
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 Minimum of 3 idle machines are placed in each sewing line, which should be placed
in store.
Suggestions
Alternate solutions to regular Machine problems.
Systematic machine sequence should be maintained.
Feeding should not be delayed.

Trims to be supplies at necessary time.
Alternate solutions for electrical problem.
In advance garment to be supplied from the embroidery section.
Pocket decoration thread should be of good quality.
In double needle machine proper time setting has to be done.
Idle machines placed in sewing line should be placed in store.
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CHAPTER 9.)INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING
Figure 9.1. Industrial Engineering Department
The IE department shown in figure 9.1 plays one of the key roles in the garment
industry. The main objective is to:
 Analyze the sample/technical pack
 Line arrangement
The line arrangement and production capacity is achieved by work study, time study
and allowances. Thus SMV is improved. The work study is measured by method study
and work measurement. Time study is used for all the planning and control systems.
Production target= 480 min/ standard time
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Operation bulletin:
It is a format prepared by IE department, which gives information about type of

machines, attachments, total no. of operations, time taken for each operation,
total time taken to make a garment and efficiency of style.
Batch setting:
Batch setting is the process of machines with suitable folders, needle and with
other setting to carry out operation in sequence according to operation bulletin
into various section. It is to set the operator to achieve desired standards and
various reference samples are made to make sure that desired quality can be
achieved.
Roles & responsibilities:
Preparing the Operation Bulletin
Making the Layouts with best Material movement / Flow
Machinery arrangement for the Line
Batch setting
Batch setting check list
Line Balancing
GSD method implementation
Time study
Motion study
Costing
Make suggestions on Constructions changes & Appearance
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Daily MIS
Process / Method improvement
Method auditing
Performance evaluation of the Lines
Operator Skill matrix
Eliminating Non value added things along with Plant Manager
Identify and reduce the Wastage % on Trims like Threads along with the Plant
Manager
Standard minute value
There are two SMV’s provided for a style in Arvind:
Costing SMV
Actual SMV
Actual SMV:
The actual SMV is arrived based on actual operation bulletin. Here the automatic
pocket creaser and Pocket setter is considered wherever possible. The batch
Efficiency or Performance is calculated based on the Machine SMV’s, as per
actual SMV not the costing SMV.
Standard allowed minutes:
The SAM is calculated by the formula:
SAM= single sewing cycle*20% personal fatigue*15% m/c delay*2%contingency

allowance
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Method of costing
When tech pack comes to merchant, he fixes the same and sends it to IE
department. IED does the feasibility analysis called as Cut and Make charges,
which means whether a particular order can be accomplished in the factory or
not.
There are number of tools and techniques which are used in by industrial
engineers to establish an effective production system in the company. Most of
the job profile falls under following list.
Knowledge about various sewing production systems
Knowledge of all types of Sewing machine necessary for the company
Time study (Cycle timing)
Motion analysis of the operations
Operation break down
Preparation of Operation Bulletin
SAM Calculation
M/C Layout and Work station layout
Setting up new line for a particular style
Production estimation of a line
Work Sampling
WIP Control
Line Balancing
Capacity study
Cost estimation of a garment
Developing and Maintaining Skill Matrix
Calculating Thread Consumption
Work aids, Guide and Attachment
Performance rating
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CHAPTER 10.)DENIM WASHING

OBJECTIVE: To give different effects to the garments by various wet and dry
processes as well as to clean the garments.
Washing department plays an important role in the garment Industry. It gives a special
effect and good appearance to the garment because of washing price of the garment
differs. There are different types of washing.
The washing section head receives the recipe and desired finish in the garment from
the merchandiser who gets this specification from the buyer. According to the wash
recipe, the washing section prepares 3-5 samples and sent to the buyer. The buyer
approves one of the samples. After buyer approves the sample, a lot is washed (bulk
washing). 2 samples out of the bulk lot are sent to the buyer again for approval. Once it
is passed the bulk washing starts for the entire style production (same recipe as made
by the washing). When the garments are received it is checked if the garment is soft or
hard. If the fabric is soft then the garment is just washed with softeners. If the garment is
hard then the garment undergoes a proper wash cycle. The wash cycle starts with the
process of de-sizing this is the process of removal of starch from the garment. The
starch makes the garment stiff
Total area - 59,000 sq. Feet. (Dry Process + Wet Process)
Washing capacity -16, 50,000 per month
Washing mainly can be categorized into:
1. Wet Processing
2. Dry Processing
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Both of these processes are at two separate areas and comprises of various sub
processes.
Standard Operation Procedure of Washing
Figure10.1 shows the S.O.P of the washing section
WASHING
DRY PROCESS WET PROCESS
LASER PP SPRAY
HANDSANDING SEMI WASH
SANDBLASTING GRINDING
CRINKLING FINAL WASH
RESIN OZONE
CURING DISPATCH
Figure 10.1.Washing Procedure
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SEMI WASH a) Enzyme Wash b) Bleach Wash
c) Stone Wash d) Sponge Wash
DRY PROCESS
The distressed jeans that we see around everywhere undergo a wide variety of wet as
well as dry treatments to get the desired effects. Here I shall try to explain some basic
Denim Dry Processing techniques. In the creation of distressed jeans, dry processes
play a very important role and hence important to understand. Destroying denims is as
much an art as it is a technique. Sometimes a bit of local tint staining is being done into
the local areas to emphasize the lighter parts. The jeans then go for a washing with
pumice stone to blend in the whiskering and tinting / over dyeing. No one other than
those who work for these companies knows the exact techniques or the abrasives and
chemicals used to achieve certain special effects. Layout of Dry Process section shown
in figure 10.2.
Figure 10.2.Layout Of Dry process (Washing Dept)
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Following are the processes in dry processing area:
1. LASER
The laser fading process is acknowledged as a very strong alternative compared to the
conventional physical and chemical processes used for aged-worn look on denim
fabrics. In this study, the beams from a CO2 (10.6 µm) laser was used for the fading of
denim fabrics. The effects of laser beam on the physical properties of denim fabrics
such as tensile strength, tear strength, abrasion resistance, and static and kinematic
friction coefficient were investigated and optimum process conditions were determined.
In order to investigate the effect of laser fading treatment on color change, the fabrics
were washed and color efficiency, L a b values and yellowness index were measured
after washing process. In terms of both color and mechanical properties, it is found that
100 and 150 μs pulse times are suitable for laser fading process of denim fabrics
Figure10.3 showing the procedure of laser operation and figure10.3 d showing the laser
designs on denim jeans.
SMV Of Whiskering for a Particular Style
WHISKERING
ACTIVITEIS TIME IN (SEC)
PICKING 3
POSTIONING 7
SCRAPPING 45
UNLOAD 3
TOTAL 116
BUYER-
LEVI’S LOGWOOD-511
Table No.10.1 SMV of Whiskering
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PROCESS FLOW OF LASER OPERATION
a)
Figure 10.3.a. Laser Machines
b)
Figure 10.3.b. Operator Inserting Designs In The System
c)
Figure 10.3.c. Laser Movement on Denim During The Process
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Figure 10.3.d. Effects Of Laser On Denim Jeans
2. HAND SANDING
Hand sand is step which is generally being done in rigid form of garments to get
distress look shown in figure 10.4. Locations can be front thigh & back seat or its can be
overall / global application as per Standard.
Emery paper is being used to scrape the garments in particular placement & design.
Emery paper comes in different number generally start from 40 till 600 and above ,
higher the number finer the emery paper, lower the coarseness of the paper.
In garment industry from 180, 220, 320 & 400 number papers are most popular &
widely used. Purpose of doing this process is make used worn out look to the
garments. The most important factor is to select right number of paper according to the
fabric strength & intensity need. Feathering / merging white sanded part to dark blue
area in such way that it should look natural & not artificial.
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Scraping can be done on inflated rubber balloons for better effect (horizontal or vertical
it’s up to operator’s convenience), even it can done plain wooden board of garment size
& hand pressure should be uniform in order to get better results.
Hand sanding must be started from intense part & feathering out on less intense
part gradually. One garment must by do by one operator only to have balance intensity
on both the legs.
Figure 10.4. Hand Scrapping
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SMV Of Hand Scrapping For a Particular Style
HAND SCRAPPING
PICKING 5
POSTIONING 10
AIRBLOW 9
SCRAPPING 156
AIR RELEASE 3
UNLOAD 5
TOTAL 188
BUYER- LEVI’S STYLE-LOGWOOD 511
Table No.10.2.SMV of Hand Scrapping
TACKING
Tacking is a process which is being done by swift tag machine with the help of plastic or
nylon tag pins in rigid form of garment to get very heavy contrast ( rigid & washed ) on
waistband, bottom hems, back pocket & front pocket corners etc. after completing wash
cycle, it must be removed from garment before making softening shown in figure10.5.
Table No.10.3 SMV of Tacking
TACKING
TIME IN
ACTIVITEIS (SEC)
PICKING 2
POSTIONING=TACK 10
NO. OF TACK 10
UNLOADING 2
TOTAL 24
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Figure 10.5.Tacking
3. Resin Spray
This process is given to the garment when the garment is in the dry stage shown in
figure10.6 .This is given to denim garment for the purpose of making the denim fabric
stiff so that the crinkles (3d effect) can be formed prominently. There are 3 stages in
resin spraying:
 Preparation of the chemical

 Application of the chemical
 Cross linking of the chemical
From above activities only spray time is variable .so whenever we require calculating
the SMV for a particular style we need to note down the spray time and rest are almost
same. This value is at 100% efficiency because we have not considered allowance and
rating of the operator.
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Figure 10.6. Resin Wash
4. CRINKLING AND CURING
For high quality 3D crunching / whiskers shown in figure10.7, the two most important
criteria are temperature and control of cycle. Presses should be equipped with high-
heat, cast aluminum heads or with supplementary electrical heaters to give a
processing temperature of approximately 150 – 180 degree centigrade. This
temperature is crucial as it starts the curing process and controls the effects. This
process consists of passing the infra red light on to the jeans for 6 mins. The jeans
produced by this process is dependent upon the wavelength of light .normally 2.4m will
be suitable for this process .the garment is put in a mannequin which is hung vertically
and the mannequin will be revolving around its own.
Using resin on garments shown in figure10.8 is only one major danger is leaching of
free formaldehyde if resin is not cured properly due to any parameters being ignored in
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a process i.e. Temperature and time. Hence for dealing with resin application skilled
man power is pre requisite.
ds wdqwdq
Figure 10.7.Crinkling
Figure 10.8.Curing
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SMV OF CRINKLING AND CURING FOR A PARTICULAR STYLE
CRINKELING+CURING(IR)
TIME IN
ACTIVITEIS (SEC)
PICKING 5
AIRBLOW 5
NO.OF
CRINKELING 18
CURING 240
OUT 4
AIR RELEASE 2
UNLOAD 5
TOTAL 333
LOGWOOD -
BUYER- LEVI’S 511
Table No.10.4 SMV of Crinkling and Curing
If one person makes crinkling then it will takes almost 333 sec for a particular style. In
this process two activities are variable no. Of crinkle and curing time and rest are almost
same .By measuring these two time we can calculate SMV for a particular style. This
value is at 100% efficiency because we have not considered allowance and rating of the
operator.
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WET PROCESS
Denim washing is the aesthetic finish given to the denim fabric to enhance the appeal
and to provide strength. Dry denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric
that is not washed after being dyed during its production.
Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that with time the fabric will fade in a
manner similar to that which artificially distressed denim attempts to replicate. With dry
denim, however, such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears the
jeans and the activities of their daily life. This creates what many feel to be a more
natural, unique look than pre-distressed denim. Layout of the wet process area is
shown in figure10.9.
Following are the processes in wet washing:
Figure 10.9.Layout of Wet Processing (washing dept.)
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1. GRINDING
Grinding is the process of rupturing the surface of the denim to give it a torn and rash
look. There is a special tool called grinding pencil used for the grinding. On the front end
there is a grinded stone (shown in figure10.10) rotating in normal rpm, hence when in
touch with the surface of the fabric, gives it a torn effect.
Figure 10.10.Grinder
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2. PP spray
This process is given to the garment when the garment is in the dry stage shown in
figure10.11 .This is given to denim garment for the purpose of blocking the indigo.
There are 3 stages in PP spray:
 Preparation of the chemical

 Application of the chemical
 Cross linking of the chemical
From above activities only spray time is variable .so whenever we require to calculate
the SMV for a particular style we need to note down the spray time and rest are almost
same. This value is at 100% efficiency because we have not considered allowance and
rating of the operator.
Figure 10.11.PP Spray
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3. Semi wash
There are two types of semi washing in wet process:
I. Mechanical wash
A. Stone wash
B. Micro sanding
II. Chemical wash

A. Denim bleaching
B. Enzyme wash
C. Acid wash
I. Mechanical wash
These washes are done mechanically with the help of the machines and an external
agent is required to give the desired effect without getting dissolved in the process.
A.)Stone wash
In the process of stone washing shown in figure10.12, freshly dyed jeans are loaded
into large washing machines and tumbled with pumice stones to achieve a soft hand
and desirable look. Variations in composition, hardness, size shape and porosity make
these stones multifunctional. The process is quite expensive and requires high capital
investment .Pumice stones give the additional effect of a faded or worn look as it
abrades the surface of the jeans like sandpaper, removing some dye particles from
the surfaces of the yarn.
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Process cycle:
Figure10.12 Process cycle of stone wash
Selection of stone
Stone should be selected of the proper hardness, shape, and size for the particular
end product. It should be noted that large, hard stones last longer and may be suited
for heavy weight fabrics only. Smaller, softer stones would be used for light weight
fabrics and more delicate items. Stone wt. /fabric wt. = 0.5 to 3 /1 .It depends on the
degree of abrasion needed to achieve the desired result. Stones can be reused until
they completely disintegrate or washed down the drain. Thus pumice stones shown in
figure10.13 are the best for the stone wash.
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Figure 10.13. Pumice Stone for Stone Wash
Problems caused by stones:
1- Damage to wash machineries and garment due to stone to machine and machine to
stone abrasion
2- Increase in labor to remove dust from finished garments.
3- Water pollution during disposal of used liquor.
4- Back staining and re deposition.
Back staining or Re-deposition:
The dye removed from denim material after the treatment with cellulose or by a
conventional washing process may cause "back staining or "re deposition”. Re-
coloration of blue threads and blue coloration of white threads, resulting in less
contrast between blue and white threads.
Remedy of back staining
- Adding dispersion/suspension agent to wash cycle.

- Intermediate replacement of wash liquor.
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- Using alkaline detergent like sodium per borate with optical brightener as after
wash.
Limitations of stone washing:
Quality of the abrasion process is difficult to control Outcome of a load of jeans is

never uniform, little percentage always getting ruined by too much abrasion.
The process is non-selective.
Metal buttons and rivets on the jeans in the washing machines get abraded.
This reduces quality of the products and life of equipment, and increases production
costs.
Stones may turn into powder during the process of making the garment grayish in
color and rough too.
Provides rougher feel than enzyme wash.
Stone may lead the harm to the machine parts.
B.)Micro sanding
In this fabric treatment process, a series of cylindrical rolls in a horizontal

arrangement, either wrapped with an abrasive paper or chemically coated with an
abrasive, are used to create a soft, suede hand. The denim is pulled over the face of
the sand rollers creating a raised surface finishing. Some color reduction is
experienced.
II. Chemical Wash
Chemical wash is the type of wash in which a chemical, reducing agent, coloring agent
or any of the solvent is mixed with the water to get the desired effect on the denim
A.)Denim bleaching
In this process a strong oxidative bleaching agent such as sodium hypochlorite or

KMnO4 is added during the washing with or without stone addition.
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Discoloration produced is usually more apparent depending on strength of the bleach
liquor quantity, temperature and treatment time. It is preferable to have strong bleach
with short treatment time. Care should be taken for the bleached goods so that they
should be adequately antichlor or after washed with peroxide to minimize yellowing.
Materials should be carefully sorted before processing for color uniformity.
B.)Enzyme wash
It is environmentally friendly wash. It involves the Application of organic enzymes that

eat away at the fabric, i.e. the cellulose. When the desired color is achieved, the
enzymes can be stopped by changing the alkalinity of the bath or its temperature. Post
treatment includes final rinsing and softening cycle. The effects produced by the
cellulose enzyme are---
1. Use of cellulase making the seams, hems, and pockets more noticeable
2. Salt pepper effect is color contrast effect.
3. Faded garment with acid cellulase enzyme provides less color contrast in
proportion to garment washed with neutral cellulase enzymes. Garment load size
of the machine is 35-40 jeans per machine and it cannot be overloaded
Types of enzyme are:

1-nuetral enzyme
2-acid enzyme
3-cold wash
In neutral enzyme process we use denim ax PB. And this process is carried out at
55 degree and maintained at a ph of 7.
In acid enzyme process we use enzyme called Biotouch. And temperature 55
degree at PH 4.5
In cold enzymatic process we use enzyme called Airocell and this process is
carried out at room temperature up to 10 min for 2 hours depending upon the
characteristics of fabrics.
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C.)Acid wash
(Marble/ Moon Wash/ Snow Wash)- This finish gives indigo jeans sharp contrasts.
The process is achieved by soaking pumice stones in chlorine and letting these stones
create contrast.
D.)Sponge wash
Fabric is loaded into machine with 14 liter of water and 600-800 gram of the potassium
paramagnet soaked in foam for at least 10-15min. When the fabric is rotated with
sponge shown in figure10.14 and figure10.15 then it randomly touch the garment
ultimately after final washing it will give a faded effect.
Figure 10.14.Sponge Used for Sponge Wash Figure 10.15. Semi wash and Final Wash Loader
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4. HYDRO EXTRACTOR
80-100 pieces are loaded in a high rotating machine shown in figure10.16 for 4-6 min
.due to centrifugal force water is extracted from the garment so that it might take
less time while drying.
Total machine =5
Capacity =8-100
Man power =2/machine and two helper
HYDRO EXTRACTION
LOADING 280
DOOR CLOSED 13
RUNNIGN 300
DOOR OPEN 5
UNLOAD 155
TOTAL 753
Table No.10.5 SMV of Hydro Extraction
RECOMMENDATION
Machine runs on an average 5min.
During running time both the operator are doing nothing except standing near
the machine.
One complete cycle takes around 10 min i.e. in one hour 30 min they are idle
and in one shift 240 min means 50 % time they are idle.
Men operator to be employed.
They can be asked to bring the trolley during idle time from final wash as final
wash operator remains busy and have to handle 3-4 machines.
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Figure 10.16.Hydro Extractor
5. Final washing
Final washing involves the last wash of the garment which removes all the chemicals
left and also used as a softener to make the fabric feel soft. This process is done in big
washing machines.
6. Drying
This is the last process of washing in which the drying of the garment takes place with
the warm air blown in the machines
Special Cases of Wet Process
1. Ozone wash
This wash is done by oxidizing the denim jeans so that it could get the used look and
faces no further oxidization.
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2. Puncture Patches
These puncture patches are stickered on the back side of the denim on the place where
the torn area is present so that skin is not visible and also add an effect to the denim
jeans.
Methods of Washing Process
There are generally various ways of washing according to the demand of various buyers
but generally the following two methods are most active in denim washing:
METHOD-1 METHOD-2
Receiving garments from sewing Receiving garments from sewing
Whisker effect by laser Whiskering by laser
Tacking Whiskering
Tying Hand sanding
Resin treatment Tacking
Crinkling 1st wash
Curing Grinding
Washing as per requirement PP spray
Hydro extractor 2nd wash/neutral pp
Grinding Softener
Final wash Drying
Drying Table No.10.6 Methods of washing
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Material process flow in washing
Garments are checked

as per quality standards
Bulk approved wash

standard received from
buyer
First bulk wash is

done(250 pcs)
Rectify the faults and

update the recipe
Bulk wash ranges are

send to the buyer
Comments and
approval comes from
the buyer
Bulk washing is done
Tumble dry
Garment is inspected as
AQL 2.5
Garment sent to
finishing for packing
Figure10.17 Material process flow in wet washing
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Machine Details of wet process
S.NO. NAME OF THE MACHINE NO.OF MACHINE MANUFACTURER
1 WASHING 45 TONNELLO,
DENIS,TOLKAR
2 DRYER 24 RAMSON,STALWART
,TRIVENETA
3 HYDROEXTRACTOR 6 BIGMAC
Table No.10.7 Machine Details of wet process
Machine details of dry process
S.NO NAME OF THE MACHINE NO.OF.MACHINE MANUFACTURER
1 CURING OVEN 2 RAMSON
2 CRINKLING MACHINE 14 RAMSON
3 BENCH GRINDING 2 RAMSON
4 TACKING MACHINE 6 RAMSON
5 IR CURING MACHINE 12 IR CURE, GEM
6 3D BOHIMA 1 IR CURE
7 BRUSHING ROBOT 1 IR CURE
8 JACKET ROBOT 10 IR CURE
9 LASER MAKING 6 IR CURE
10 SPRAY BOOTH 4 VIJAY & RAMSON
Table No.10.8 Machine Details of Dry process
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Chapter 11.)FINISHING DEPARTMENT
OBJECTIVE: To finish the garments and pack them such that they are ready to be sent
to the buyer. Finishing section shown in figure11.1 is responsible for trimming, checking,
mending, ironing, and packing the garments. Finished garments are received from
Washing Unit.
There are 5 lines of finishing named as Module A, B, C, and D & E.
Figure 11.1.Finishing Department
MANPOWER
Checkers/ironers/packers = 100
Supervisors=3
Total floor area of finishing department
9355 square feet
Finishing is the last stage of garment production where garment gets its final look. It
undergoes for quality check for several number of time which sets the garment free from
defects. Buyer specifications and instructions are strictly maintained.
Finishing section consists of the various operations:
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Loop cutting
Trimming
Audit
Rivet/snap attachment
Measurement
Folding
Ironing
Labeling
Trim attaching
Tag attaching
Packing
Final inspection
Finishing & Packaging – Denim
The Finishing & Packaging Section for Denim Garments is on the same floor as the
Denim Sewing Section.
After washing and other surface finishing, the dried garments are brought to the
Finishing Floor. Various activities also shown in figure11.2 undertaken before packaging
are:
i. Cut Plastic on Labels: The plastic pouches wrapped over labels attached
to the garment so as they do not catch any color bleed while washing of
the garment are cut and removed.
ii. Trim Threads: Extra threads that are left on the garment while sewing are
trimmed off.
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iii. Trim Belt Loops: Long lengths of belt loops are often left on the garment
while the automatic machine attaches them on the waistband. These extra
lengths are manually trimmed off using trimmers to a suitable length.
iv. Measurement Checking: All measurements are checked once more so as

to ensure there is no deviation from the required specification due to post-
wash shrinkage.
v. Alteration: If any measurement is found inappropriate and it is correctable,

it is sent for alteration on the same floor. Measurement is again checked
and then sent for the further processes.
vi. Topper: Garment is hanged on the machine and is stretched to check the
strength of the waistband and also check the size.
vii. Attachment of metal trims (except zipper): Rivets and shank buttons are
attached to the garment on different machines.
viii. Pressing: Ironing is done often by steam press. Those garments whose
specification is not to use a press, are set on the topper which removes the
wrinkles out of the garment.
ix. Final Checking: A final check is further done so as to assure the quality
specifications, trims attachment, quality of stitching, measurement
specifications and other features that may have been left out during
previous inspections.
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x. Kimble & Sticker Attachment: Kimble and hangtags are attached as per the
size of the garment. Garments are folded and are segregated size and
color wise.
xi. Needle Detection: All the garments are passed through metal detector
machine as it is mandatory quality specification.
xii. Packaging: Individual garments are brought in packaging section. They are
then individually packed and then put in cartons as per buyer’s
specification. Packing is done manually by hand held Tape Dispenser.
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FINISHING PROCESS FLOWCHART
Figure 11.2. Process Flow of Finishing Dept.
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MACHINERY DETAILS OF FINISHING SECTION:
S.NO NAME OF THE MACHINE NO.OF.MACHINE
1 SNLS 10
2 SNLS –UBT 16
3 BARTACK 11
4 CHAIN STITCH 1
5 SNAP BUTTON 13
6 PRESSING TABLE 22
Table No.11.1 Machine details
CAPACITY DETAILS OF FINISHINGSECTION:
S.NO ITEM DETAILS
1 NO.OF.FINISHING LINE 8
2 NO.OF.WORK 12
STATION/LINE
3 NO.OF.EMPLOYEE 375
4 AVERAGE 6350
PRODUCTION/DAY
5 TYPE OF PACKING Polybag and cardboard cartons
Table No.11.2 Capacity details
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Man Power required for finishing section:
Time Man
taken for Garment Target Power Target
(40 Per by
Process Avg garment) Per Hour Day required individual
Loop Cutting 0.2 2 122 974 3 2922
Trimming 1.4 11 21 169 15 2533
Audit 1.4 11 21 170 15 2545
Rivet/Button 0.5 4 62 496 5 2479
Ironing 0.3 2 98 785 3 2354
Final checking 0.5 4 61 487 5 2435
Measurement 0.2 1 160 1283 2 2567
Trim attaching 0.7 6 41 331 8 2645
Folding 0.2 2 131 1049 2 2098
UPC / Labeling 0.7 6 43 341 7 2386
Tag attaching 0.3 3 87 699 4 2797
Packing Na Na Na Na 5 Na
74 2524
TableNo.11.3.Manpower
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FinishingAPPAREL INTERNSHIP,
time study ARVIND LIFESTYLE
report : BUYER: APPARELS
H&M , Style- 2015
Ricky Youth
Finishing section (Jeans)

Time study report
Sl. No Operation Name Avg SMV Avg/Hr Avg/Day
1 Loop Cutting 0.224 0.2464 243.506 1948.05
2 Trimming 1.292 1.4212 42.2178 337.743
3 Audit 1.286 1.4146 42.4148 339.319
4 Rivet/Button 0.44 0.484 123.967 991.736
5 Ironing/Topper 0.278 0.3058 196.207 1569.65
6 Final checking 0.448 0.4928 121.753 974.026
7 Measurement 0.17 0.187 320.856 2566.84
8 Trim attaching 0.66 0.726 82.6446 661.157
9 Folding 0.208 0.2288 262.238 2097.9
10 UPC / Labeling 0.64 0.704 85.2273 681.818
11 Tag attaching 0.312 0.3432 174.825 1398.6
12 Packing 1.858 2.0438 29.3571 234.857
Total
SMV 8.5976
Table No.11.4 Time Study of Ricky Youth
DETAILS OF THE STYLES STUDIED
SL.NO BUYER STYLE SMV

1. PIMKIE COL ACID 9.04
2. LEVI’S LOG WOOD-511 8.75
3. LEVI’S AMEZE-511 11.36
4. LEVI’S WARM JET WAYS 8.24
5. H&M Skinny Clean 10.98

6. H&M Slim Ricky cane 8.29
7. PIMKIE Black Rinse 9.30
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8. H&M RICKY YOUTH 8.59

9. H&M JOGGER WILLIAM 10.79
10. LEVI’S CORK BREAK 10.96
Table No.11.5 SMV details of various buyers
DEFECT ANALYSIS
SL.NO DEFECT PART OF CAUSE OF

GARMENT DEFECT
1. Unraveling of bobbin thread Back pocket, Washing
stitch Waistband
2. Unraveling of fabric thread Belt loop Washing
3. Open stitch or loose stitch Bottom hem, Waist Washing, Sewing
band, Crotch area
4. Wrong bar tack (Fabric Pocket bag Sewing
tucked)
5. Broken Chain Stitch Pocket bag Washing
6. Opening of chain stitch Back Yoke Washing
7. Improper Over lock Side Seam Sewing
8. Unraveling of Over lock Side Seam Washing
stitch
9. Wrong SPI Pocket bag Sewing
10. Broken Stitch Back Pocket, Washing
Waistband
11. Missing bar tack Fly facing, Pocket Sewing
bag
12. Broken Zippers Fly Washing
13. Holes, Torn label, Stains Washing, Sewing
Table No.11.6 Machine details
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PROCESS LAYOUT- FINISHING DEPARTMENT (shown in figure11.3)
FINISHING LINE
FEEDING
LOOP CUTTING
POCKET
CLEANING
TRIMMING
INITIAL
CHECKING
ALTERATION
KBS
THREAD
SUCKING
IRONING/TOPPER
D
FINAL
CHECKING I
S
PRICE
TAGGING P
NEEDLE A
DETECTION
T
ENTRY/EXIT PACKING C
PACKAGING layout
CARTONS AREA Dept. H
Figure 11.3.Process for Finishing
Figure 11.3. Finishing Process Layout
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FINISHING SUGGESTIONS
THREAD TRIMMING
 The main cause for recurring defect is tangled untrimmed thread.
 According to time study, the time required to trim these thread is around 2
minutes.
 Even though initial trimming is done, processes followed after involves trimming
again.
 If the trimming section function properly after sewing i.e. before it goes for
washing, the trimming in the finishing department can be avoided.
 So, after washing these garments can be directly loaded to initial checking after
pocket cleaning.
 In this way, the SMV can be reduced which will enhance productivity.
GARMENT DEFECTS
 If we follow the current layout, the defected pieces can be segregated in the
trimming section rather than following further processes.
 For eg: If a garment is beyond alteration it can be segregated in the trimming

station itself.
 Also the common recurring defects can be segregated in the trimming station
itself.
 For e.g.: The troughs in which the defected pieces are put on can be divided into
two or three like Over lock, SNLS, Bar tack defects rather than mixing it all
together and segregating it with the help of additional helper.
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Chapter 12.) PROJECT
SUBMITTED BY:
RAJIV RANJAN
DFT- VII
NIFT, HYDERABAD
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PROJECT
‘MEASUREMENT ISSUES’
&
‘QUALITY ASSURANCE PARAMETERS’
(SURVEY)
By: RAJIV RANJAN
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OBJECTIVE OF THE PROJECT

The main objective of the project was to find different issues in the measurement of a style of
denim. As we all know the importance of measurement in the garment industry. Any defect or
issue in the denim can increase the possibility of the rejection. So, this study is done to detect
these issues and enhance the quality of the garment, There are several parameters by which we
can understand the measurement problems in the garment. We found the problems and the cause
of the problems occurred in this style during the whole manufacturing process from pattern
making to shipment.
In this project, we followed a style “Jogger Liam 89” of H&M and find the measurement issues
in that style on every step. From the pattern making to the finishing process, there are several
types of measurement issues in this style. So, we found those measurement issues and the cause.
INTRODUCTION OF THE STYLE
Buyer- H&M
Style- Jogger Liam 89
Season- 2, Color - Blue
Fabric Composition- 76% cotton

+ 23% polyester + 1% elastane
Shrinkage- 2cms x 2.5cms
Group – Kids
Issue Date –2 April 2015
Wash – Mid wash
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METHODOLOGY
STUDY OF • Understand the different processes for a normal denim

THE WHOLE
PROCEDURE
• quality checks which are to be followed to avoid issues
FOR NORMAL
DENIM
• Study the processes used in this style so that we can find the reasons for
COLLECTION measurement issues.
OF
INFORMATIO • Problems that occurred during the manufacturing
N THIS STYLE
FIND THE
• Type of measurement issues
MEASUREME • Reasons and effects
NT ISSUES IN
EACH DEPT.
• Conclusion, i.e. “why these issues occurred?”

CAUSES OF
MEASUREME
• Recomendation
NT ISSUES
1. PROCEDURES FOR NORMAL DENIM CONSTRUCTION
Fabric and
Trims quality Washing Finishing
inspection
Pattern
Making and Sewing Packaging
Sampling
Pilot Run Cutting
So, we covered all these departments and the brief idea is given in the document previously.
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2. COLLECTING INFORMATION OF THIS STYLE FROM EACH DEPT.
FABRIC/TRIMS STORAGE AND INSPECTION
Objective: Fabric will be stored for easy identification of shade, shrinkage, width and P.O,
Buying and storage of trims and issuing them to the finishing dept and sampling dept.
Fabric inspection for Jogger Liam 89
 Complete visual inspection was done. There is no systematic recording.

 Defects like weaving or colored patta are recorded without measuring the dimension of
the defects.
 Fabric inspection reports are at the discretion of the operator only.
 Defects are recorded at the end of the inspection, as this may lead to mistakes.
 Fabrics coming in lots are not taken for a second inspection.
 The 4-point inspection system is followed for the fabric inspection.
Major defects that are encountered are: -

1. Weaving
2. Dyeing (patta, center, selvage, streaks)
3. Prints (print repeat, pattern/ design, choke ups) etc.
RESULTS:
2 rolls i.e. 99371 & 99213 were rejected due to shade variation in length.
There is a major problem during sewing due to the crisscross storage manner of the fabric
rolls.
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Inspection Report of Jogger Liam 89
Trims Inspection
 In this style, all the quality inspection for the trims were done.
 The trims used in this style are as follows:
Size label
Wash care label
Name label
Tubular tape
Threads and Buttons
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SAMPLING
Objective:
To allow the buyer to judge the production capabilities of the manufacturer.

To provide a means for making revisions in the bulk production process.
To let the manufacturer estimate the thread and fabric consumption, and develop cost
quotations.
In this style, following samples were created:
Proto
Pilot Run 2 Pilot Run 3
sample
Quotation
Pilot Run 1 Bulk
Sample
Photo shoot
Size set
sample
So, measurement issues can arise at any of this point.
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PILOT RUN
OBJECTIVE: Purpose of pilot run is to check production techniques and quality

requirement.
CUTTING
Objective: spreading the fabric lays, cut the garment panels according to the marker provided
and sort, number and bundle the panels.
It consists of following processes:

Marker making
Fabric Relaxation
Spreading
Cutting
Cut parts checking and recutting
Numbering
Fusing
Embroidery
Sorting and bundle
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SEWING
Objective: To sew the garments according to the styles given by the buyer.
Operation Bulletin of Jogger Liam 89
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WASHING
Objectives of Washing:
To develop softness in garments

To give a vintage look to the garment
To introduce fading/used effect
To create new styles and thus a change in fashion
To satisfy the customer needs and wants
To make the garments shrink to the maximum
Wash Recipe
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FINISHING
Objective: to add on value to the garments and give the final touch to the garment.
It is consist of following processes:
Loop trimming
Pocket cleaning
Extra thread removing
Rough checking
If any minor defect is there, Alteration can be done. If not, the garments are rejected by the
QA.
Thread setting
Pressing
Final inspection
Match book
After final inspection, the trims like tags, stickers etc are attached
Fold the garments properly then and send to the packing department.
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3. MEASUREMENT ISSUES
FABRIC STORAGE
Due to this section, a big problem was occurred in ‘Jogger Liam 89” in the cutting
section known as waviness. This stretchbility of this fabric was much more.
Some of the rolls were not relaxed before cutting.
FABRIC STORAGE
This manner of storage create dimensional instability in the stretchable fabric rolls,
because due to this type of storage manner, the rolls which are in the bottom of the rolls
get more pressure which causes the dimensional instability in the rolls because each part
of the roll does not get same pressure.
Solution: The fabric which is more stretchable should be stored in pyramid form, whether the
buyer ask for it or not.
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PATTERN MAKING AND SAMPLIN
Proto
Pilot Run 2 Pilot Run 3
sample
Quotation
Pilot Run 1 Bulk
Sample
Photo shoot
Size set
sample
Measurement Issues In pattern making:

Due to washing, there were many changes in the measurement because there is shrinkage
in the fabric. So, every time pattern master have to make the changes in the pattern.
In quotation sample,
Shrinkage: L X W = 2 X 2.5%
The pattern master added some allowances to get the fit. The allowances are:
Thigh = +0.9, Bottom = - 0.4, Front rise = + 0.5
Back rise = +0.5, Inseam = +1, Out seam = +1.
In Size-set samples,
Buyer checked the photo shoot sample and asked for size set sample with the same block.
Scoop pocket making adjustment was needed.
After sending the size set sample, the company got the approval of bulk production.
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1st Pilot Run:
Shrinkage: L X W = 3.5 X 7%
The allowances are:
Waist = +2, Thigh = +1.2, Knee = +.8,
Inseam = +.8, Front rise = +.5, Back rise = 0.8
2nd Pilot Run:

Shrinkage: L X W = 4.5 X 3.5%
The allowances are:
Waist = +0.5, Front rise = +1
BULK
Shrinkage: L X W = 1.5 X 6 %
The allowances are:
Seat = -0.6, Thigh = +0.8, Knee = +0.6, Bottom = +0.4,
Inseam = +0.5, Front rise = -0.5, Back rise = - 0.6.
Reasons for the measurement issues:
SHRINKAGE
 Shrinkage is the most important parameter because the measurement is totally dependent
on this parameter.
 So, its important to calculate the shrinkage of the fabric and give the allowances during
the pattern making and sampling.
 This project i.e. ‘measurement issues’ depends on shrinkage.
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To check this, we gave 4 tubes for washing in the washing dept with same reciepe and time
duration.
Sample 1
 Fabric: SB-15-00437 1/1

Before wash: L = 25 cm & W = 25 cm
After Wash: L = 23.7 cms. (-1.3cms.) W = 22.7 cms. (-2.3cms.)
So, we added these deviations in the actual measurement.
Sample 2 Fabric: SB-15-00437 1/1

Before wash: L = 26.3 cm & W = 27.3 cm
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So, we gave the samples again for washing.
Sample 3
 Fabric: SB-15-00437 1/1

After Wash: L = 24.5 cms. (- 1.8 cm.) W = 26 cms. ( -1.3 cms.)
Sample 4
 Fabric: SB-15-00437 1/1

After Wash: L = 25.3 cms. (-1 cm.) , W = 25.1 cms. (-2.2 cms.)
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In the 4th time, the sample is near 25cms x 25 cms. So, there are some faults in washing which
creates problem for the pattern making section, which lead to the creation of different samples.
Example of alteration in pattern:
FRONT PANEL BACK PANEL
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PILOT RUN
During pattern making, the reasons for measurement issues are:
 Top fly notch was missing in pattern.
 The pattern of back panel and back yoke did not match.
 Wrong waistband measurement.
 No elastic cut measurement was given in spec.
During sewing the measurement issues are:
• Elastic gathering was not even.
• Shape off at bottom hem.
• Raw edge at waistband over lock.
• Slanted loop attachment.
During washing:
 Little shrinkage problem occurred again in wet processing
 In dry process, due to more scrapping and the size of balloon give rise to the
measurement issues.
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CUTTING
Reasons for measurement issue:
(i) Waviness
(ii) Improper Spreading
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(iii) Mis- cut
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(iv) Marker Placement
(v) Frayed edges
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(vi) Fabric Relaxation
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SEWING
Measurement issues in sewing mainly because of these reasons given below:
Waistband measurement.
Side seam margin not given
Coin pocket, scoop pocket, back pocket and facing are not checked.
1. Waistband Mis-alignment
2. Improper thread tension
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WASHING
Reasons for Measurement Issues:
• Scrapping
• Shrinkage
• PP Spray
I. Scrapping
Effects of uneven balloons:
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II. Shrinkage
Shrinkage in Jogger Liam 89 (1% elastane) due to wet washing takes place due to :
(i) Water
(ii) Chemicals
(iii) Exceeding time limit
III. PP Spray
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FINISHING
Measurement issues are:
o Rib size misplace
o Uneven folding in bottom.
Alteration due to:
• Bar tack missing
• Miss stitch
• Alignment
4. CONCLUSION
Through this project we come to know about the measurement issues and their reasons.
So, we are concluding the whole project here. It contains the reason.
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RECOMMENDATION:
The stretchable fabric rolls should be stored in pyramid form.

The relaxation should be done properly before spreading.
Balloon pressure should be checked properly before scrapping is done in dry washing.
During sewing, QA department should check the measurement properly and the workers
should work with extra care and check the operation whether it is done properly or not
and then pass it on.
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These issues should be taken seriously and each department should try their best to decrease
these issues.
ADVANTAGES:
Less rejection
Productivity increases
Less rework
Profitable
Shipment on time
Optimal utilization of all the resources
Reputation of the company becomes better
Good working condition
EFFECT OF MEASUREMENT ISSUES ON INDUSTRY
Possibility of rejection increases

Extra work load on every department to remove those issue
Wastage of resources
Time wastage due to doing the processes again and again
Garment can be damaged by rework again and again
Profit decreases
Exceeding the time limit for shipment
Reputation of the industry
So, these are the measurement problems and issues in each department. I have tried my best to
cover all the measurements issues and their reasons. Hope this project will help this industry.
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QUALITY ASSURANCE PARAMETERS
(SURVEY)
IN
ARVIND LTD., MYSORE ROAD
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QUALITY ASSURANCE PARAMETERS

AUDITORS
Sl. No Process Requirement Details
Section: TRIM STORES
Entry restricted for others YES
Incoming goods YES
Trims inspection area YES
Inspected ok goods YES

1 Identification
Rejected goods YES
Sticker for pass YES
Item wise Bin cards or item wise stock YES

in system
Adequate light YES
Authorized person YES

2 Trim Inspection
Quantity inspected record YES
Communication of pass/fail record YES
Approval of merchant YES
Storage PO wise NO
3 Others
Needles under safety lock NO
Labels must be stored under safety NO

lock
Handling YES
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Housekeeping YES
Approved Trim card YES
Sampling plan YES

4 Display
Store layout YES
Process flow chart YES
Section: FABRIC STORES

Fabric defect standard YES
4 point system chart YES

1 Display
Face side. If necessary display Nap NO
direction & Grain line
Approved shades YES
Layout YES
Incoming goods YES
Fabric inspection area YES,SMALL
Inspection OK goods YES

2 Identification
Rejected goods YES
Sticker identification YES
Physical check against Receipt invoice YES

3 Fabric receipt
Communication of excess/shortage YES
Fabric
4
inspection Centre to selvedge color variation YES
report
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Shrinkage, wash & Iron YES
Shade segregation NO
Shade blankets for wash program YES
Approval on shades YES
Face side approval YES
Combo and trim fabric approval YES
Fabric Relaxation history card YES

5
relaxation YES
Relaxation record style/roll/color wise
Stretch fabrics recommended to be NO

6 Fabric storage stored in pyramid form
Fabric must be stored NO
shade/shrinkage/ width wise
Cover fabric with poly bag to avoid YES
dust
Issue record to be maintained YES
style/PO/ color/shade wise
7 Fabric issue Fabric issue must be shade/shrinkage/ YES
width wise
Pass roles must be identified with YES
green stickers
Section: CUTTING
Plaid matching requirement YES
Grain line/center/feature line YES

Approved Ref requirement
1 Nap/design direction YES
samples
Fusing requirement YES
Combo/trim/Emb/print requirement YES
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2 Fabric Fabric receipt and consumption record YES
Preventive Cutting machine maintenance record YES

3
maintenance YES
Spreading m/c maintenance record
Display cutting SOP YES
Approvals (Emb, printing, Shades YES

etc.)
4 Display Fabric face side YES
Layout YES
5 Shade wise ratio cutting to be worked YES

out
Cutting CAD
6
markers YES
Cad markers must be used
All panels must be numbered using YES

Sober
7 sober stickers
numbering NO
Color code sober in case of multiple
shrinkage patterns
Cut parts must be stored in racks YES
8 Storage
Mobile cut part storage to be made YES
available
Pilot run records YES
9 Quality control Marker/spread audit YES
Cutting audit YES
Bundle inspection YES
Adequate light YES

Cut panel
10 Display defect standards YES
inspection
Part replacement to take place from YES
the same rolls
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End bits must be stored neatly with YES
identification
Embroidery 100% check to be carried YES
Printing 100% check to be conducted YES
Fusing standard (approval report) YES
Fusing test at least one time a day YES
Bond strength report YES

11 Fusing
Machine preventive maintenance YES
calendar
Fusing audit report YES
Fusing shrinkage & swatch record YES
Handling/ house keeping YES
Section: SEWING
Pre-production meeting conducted YES

prior to pilot run
All people listed must attend PPM YES
PPM comments must be available YES
Pilot run YES
Batch setting must be as per technical YES

specification
1 Quality system Traffic light system at the line NO
Needle procedure YES
Label procedure YES
Bundle integrity YES
Self trimming YES
Self evaluation/inspection NO
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Handling YES
Operation standard on all m/c sighed YES

by QA, Sup & Op
Machine maintenance card YES
Inspection done by operator himself NO
House keeping YES
Inspection area must have adequate YES

light
End line inspection YES
Regular visit by QA, Sup (hourly) to YES

end line
Corrective action report at the end line YES
record every hour
Measurement audit YES
SPI mocks on all machines YES
Gangue must not be blocked YES
Machine alignment YES
Buyer construction detailed to be YES

displayed
Reference sample YES
Production comments YES
Pilot run comments YES
Technical specifications YES

Display at end
2 Fabric defect standard YES
line
Sewing defect standard YES
Checking sequence YES
Critical/major/minor defect list YES
Approved fabric/trim card YES
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Style analysis/line plan YES
Skill matrix YES
Inline DHU graph YES
End line DHU graph YES
Measurement spec sheet YES
Check/pass/repair/return/reject YES
identification
Section: PO EXECUTION
Size set YES
Pilot run YES
Offer pilot & TOP YES

1 Execution
Bulk cutting and production YES
Internal audit and carton audit YES
Final inspection YES
Section: FILES AND RECORDS
Fabric test report YES
Garment test report YES
Fusible interlining report YES

1 Style files
Trim test report YES
Approved fabric swatch card YES
Approved trim card YES
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PP sample approved card YES
PP meeting comments YES
Size set report YES
Pilot run report YES
Technical specifications YES
Buyer construction sheets YES
PO copies YES
Measurement spec sheets YES
Mini marker YES
Thread consumption report YES
Packing/folding instruction YES
Production record (date/style/color/ YES

size wise)
Inline inspection report YES
End line inspection report YES
Measurement audit report YES
Daily quality status report YES
2 Records Corrective/preventive action report YES
WEEKLY/MONTHLY quality status YES

graph
Inline & end line DHU batch wise YES
Defect analysis YES
Monthly style wise audit co-relation YES

(Nom QA/buyer)
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Section: LAUNDRY
A. Dry process
Approved standard to be displayed YES
Laser Quality report on size of burn or print/ YES

1
(print/burn) grading / intensity and placement
Record on style wise chemicals mixed YES

2 Resin treatment for resin
Resin solution to be made ready for a YES
definite qty.
Record on % of concentration of YES
chemicals used
Record on mixing of chemicals on YES
weight basis
Record on pressure inside balloons for NO
each style
Record on garment rotation time and YES
no of revolutions
Record on curing time YES
3 3D 3D standard to be displayed YES
Record on maintaining of temp during YES

3D processes
Quality check report on placement and YES
rigidity
4 Whiskering Display standard on every work YES
station
Separate production and rework YES
records
Operators identification on each YES
garment
Adequate light at end table YES
5 Hand scrapping Display standard on every work YES

station
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Separate production and rework YES
records
Operators identification on each YES
garment
Adequate light at end table YES
6 Tacking/tying Standards to be displayed YES
Records on type of tag pin used YES
B. Wet process
1 pH value pH value of every load of wash to be YES
recorded
Wash standard to be available YES
Wash type and record of recipe used YES

First bulk/pilot
2
wash Wash load qty and duration of wash YES
records
Quality report with accept/reject YES
remarks
Spray requirement standard/record YES
3 PP spray Records on area of spray NO
Style wise spray mixing remarks YES
4 Damages/ Standard to be made available in the YES

destruction area
Record on nos & sizes/ placement of YES
destruction
Checkers report YES
5 Pre-treatment Details of pre-treatment to be recorded YES
Recipe used for treatment YES
Duration of treatment YES
6 Bleach wash Standard to be made available in the YES

area
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Record on bleach agent/recipe used YES
for wash
Record on temp/time at each bath YES
station
Record about after wash treatment YES
7 Enzyme wash Standard to be made available in the YES

area
Record on recipe used YES
Record on temp/time at each bath YES
Post treatment detail and record to be YES

maintained
8 Acid wash Wash standard availability YES
Recipe followed. Should maintain YES

records
Temp/time record of bath YES
Post treatment details YES
9 Stone wash Standard to be made available in the YES

area
Quantity of garments and stones taken YES
for a bath
Size and type of stone used YES
Stone size/solvent ratio, time and temp YES

records
10 Drying Drying load quantity – record to be YES
maintained
Temperature and time records YES
11 Washing & Each m/c to have individual health YES

drying m/c cards
health Health check calendar displayed for YES
all m/cs
12 Quality audits After wash AQL audit report YES
Style wise dispatch against receipt YES
Section: FINISHING
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1 Receipt of Maintain receipt records daily style/ YES
garments color/size wise
2 Washing Approved wash std (hand heel/shade) YES
After wash AQL audit report YES
Communication on audit result to YES

concern person
3 Display Approved reference sample YES
Approved trim card YES
Fabric defect std YES
Sewing defect standard YES
% of defect trend (graph) chart YES
Lay out YES
4 Button/button Approved garment standard signed by YES

holes QAM
Traffic line system NO
Operation std signed by QA, Sup & YES

operator
Handling YES
House keeping YES
Damaged snaps/button record YES
5 Pressing section Approved standard GMT signed by YES

QAM
Traffic line system NO
Operation std on every table signed by YES

QA, Sup & operator
Handling YES
House keeping YES
6 Middle Inspection record to be maintained YES
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inspection Co-relation middle & final inspection YES
report
Identification check/pass/repair/return YES
and reject
Handling & House keeping YES
7 Final/ Maintained inspection record YES

presentation
checking Identification check/pass/repair/return YES
and reject
Co-relation middle & final reports YES
8 Machine All sewing m/cs YES

maintenance
Metal detection maintenance and YES
calibration
Maintenance of ironing table YES
Button and button hole m/c YES
9 Measurement Critical measurements – 100% YES

audit checking
Measurement records YES
Separate area for measurement must YES

be identified
A min of 32 pcs random audit report YES
style/color wise
Tape calibration YES
10 Garment Approved shade garments YES

packing
Packing std signed by merchant YES
Garment to be stored style/color/size YES

wise before tag
Pkg audit of pkg cartons for ratio YES
packing
Approved trim/accessories card YES
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Placement of tag YES
11 Internal audit Finished pkd gmts to be offered for YES

final audit in small lots
Audit to happen as per sample plan for YES
visual & measurement
Ratio/solid and carton audit report YES
Corrective/preventive action in case of YES

audit failure
Audited pass goods to be stored YES
separately
12 Rejection Daily rejection analysis report YES
analysis
Style wise rejection analysis report YES
Communication to head of the YES

department
13 QA centre Adequate light YES
Fabric/sewing defect standard YES
Measurement charts YES
Sampling plans YES
Reference sample YES
Internal audit/buyer audit o-relation YES
Graphs/bar chart/pie chart/histographs YES
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PROJECT REPORT
TOPICS:
1. PROCESS DEVELOPMENT/IMPROVEMENT (P.D.C.A CYCLE)
2. QUALITY and AUDIT MODULE SETUP
Submitted By:
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CONTENT
1. PROCESS DEVELOPMENT (P.D.C.A CYCLE)
1.a) CASE 1/ PROCESS 1 – MOULD WHISKERING
1.b) CASE 1/ PROCESS 1 – PUNCTURE PATCHES
2. QUALITY and AUDIT MODULE
3. CONCLUSION
4. LEARNING OUTCOME
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Project#1
PROCESS DEVELOPMENT (P.D.C.A CYCLE)
Process development implies improvising and making an existing process grow in its
attributes and give a higher efficiency and productivity in order to achieve greater profit.
In this project two processes are taking into account and through various research and
study these processes are improved in terms of feasibility, manpower, cost
effectiveness, time cutting and visualization.
Plan-Do-Check-Act (P.D.C.A) cycle implies as, first planning for the right improvements
of the process, implementing it, checking the results and then enquiring the failures and
feasibility minors and then accordingly making the improvements to come out of a better
and improved process method.
In denim washing the process development contributes in increasing the aesthetics of

the process, saves the time, reduces the manpower and implies cost effectiveness.
These developments are also feasible and easily acquired developments.
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Case1/Process1- Mould Whiskering

Description-Hand Whiskering is done with the help of the moulds to give a specific and
précised texture to the denim jeans and is called as mould whiskering.
It’s a process of achieving a desired texture or design of whiskers and chevrons with a
template; here the template is made of the foam board.
Process breakdown:
The process is shown in figure 1.0:
1.Taping the moulds to the pole
2.Arranging the jeans on moulds
3.Hand whiskering with the silicon

carbide paper
Figure 1.0 Operational Breakdown of Mould Whiskering
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Findings/problem
While the process of mould whiskering for a particular whisker/chevron mould or

the stencil needs to be untapped and have to be taped again for the new style
quite often.
There is an inconvenient glitch in arranging the moulds by taping and unwrapping

it which takes an unwanted amount of time.
Solution/recommendation
Suspenders setup should be applied as shown in figure 1.1.

There should be a pair of elastic band, one near the waist area and one near the
knee area.
It should be tight and the mould should be inserted between these elastic bands.
Then the jeans should be dressed and whiskered.
SUSPENDER SETUP
Figure 1.1 Setup of suspender
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Advantage
This will avoid the unnecessary and irritating job of taping and unwrapping of the
tape to attach the moulds.
Feasibility indicators:
Before implementing the change in this process to make it feasible, the key things to be
kept in mind were:
 The arrangement should be tight and rigid.

 If cello tapes weren’t used the other fastener should be cost efficient and durable.
 The life of the other fastener should be more than the cello tape.
 The fastener should be broad enough to cover the surface of both the mould and
the pole.
IMPLEMENTATION of Elastic band (SUCCESS & FAILURE)
1ST ATTEMPT
Initially in search of the elastic material I picked up the elastic band used to make
the waistband of the underwear.
It was joined at the ends with the adhesive to make a elastic circle and was
applied on the attachment holding the mould and pole together.
Failure- This attachment was able to hold the mould and the pole but the mould was
very loose and while whiskering it hindered the formation of whiskers and chevrons.
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2nd ATTEMPT
After the 1st attempt I picked up the elastic band for making waist band of
jogger’s jeans because it had more width and more durability.
Then instead of joining the band, I got stitched Velcro on both the ends.
The trick was in the application of the band on to the mould and pole.
Instead of making an elastic circle of the band, it was stretched and wrapped up
tightly with more no. of rotations around the mould and the pole; also the elastic
got stuck with its other ends with the help of the Velcro stitched at the ends
making the setup very rigid and non-movable as shown in figure 1.2.
Figure 1.2 Elastic band Implementation
Success- This attachment was very tight and gave the strength like that of the tape.
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Advantage- The use of the elastic bands removed the use of the cello tapes which was
not reusable and was also very irritating to remove it with its adhesive end creating
trouble.
The elastic band lasts up to 20 days minimum which is better than cello tapes which can
be used only once.
Cost analysis for elastic Band Attachment:
Before elastic band implementation
No. of cell tapes used /day = 4 (avg.)
Cost of 1 cello tape = 50 Rs.
Total expenditure on cello tapes /day =4ˣ 50= 200 Rs
Hence total expenditure on cello tapes / month = 30ˣ 200=6000 Rs.
After elastic band implementation
Elastic band used for 1 setup = 2
Meter of elastic band used for 1 setup = (1meter/band + 1meter/band) =2 meter.
Cost of elastic band / setup = 2ˣ 5= 10 Rs.
Velcro used for 1 setup = (3 inch/band + 3inch/band) =6 inch
Cost of the Velcro/setup (Velcro / 6 inch) = 2 Rs.
Total moulds setup= 40
Cost of elastic bands for 40 setup = 40ˣ 10=400 Rs.
Cost of Velcro band for 40 setup = 40ˣ 2=80 Rs.
Total expenditure on (elastic band + Velcro) = 400+80= 480 Rs.
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The elastic band lasts up to 20 days, so
Total expenditure on (elastic band + Velcro) / 20 days = 480 Rs.
Total expenditure on (elastic band + Velcro) / 1 day = 480/20=24 Rs.
Hence, total expenditure on (elastic band + Velcro) / 30 days (1 month)
= 30 ˣ 24= 720 Rs.
Hence total cost savings/ month = 6000-720= 5280 Rs.
Thus we see a great saving while the process development evident through figure 1.4 to
1.5 of the mould whiskering.
Feasibility check-
 The arrangement as shown in figure 1.3 came out to be rigid and tight.
 The elastic bands and Velcro used as new fasteners are cost efficient (less
expenditure) and durable.
 Life of the elastic bands is more as it lasts up to minimum 20 days.
 The elastic band has more width than the waist band of the underwear used in
the first attempt.
Figure 1.3 Elastic bands with Velcro ends used for the setup
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INITIALY
Fig 1.4Cello tape attachment
PROCESS
DEVELOPMENT
FINALY
Figure 1.5 Elastic Band attachments
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RESULT
There is a decrease in the wastage of cello tapes.

As the cost analysis suggests there is a fair amount of saving per month.
The elastic bands and Velcro are easily available in the trims store of the industry
in bulk as those are used for making elastic waist bands of the jeans and
undergarments, thus no need of ordering it separately.
Mould surface also get ruptures while un tying the cello tape , which is avoided in
the case of elastic bands.
Scrap pieces of the cello tape won’t get stuck on the denim jeans or onto other
places like shoes etc.
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CASE /PROCESS 2 – PUNCTURE PATCHES
This process is a small but very important process. These puncture patches are
stickered on the back side of the denim on the place where the torn area is present so
that skin is not visible and also add an effect to the denim jeans.
Breakdown of puncture patches application on the denim jeans along with the time
study is given in figure 1.6-
TIMEOPERATION
20.1
• spraying / applying glue
sec
29.4 • spreading glue with fingers

sec
51.7 • applying of the patches on the jeans

sec
100 • arrangement of the puncture patches on the pressing machine

sec
60 • machine process
sec
4.8
• reciprocating the jeans
sec
9
• inspection
sec
60 • ironing
sec
Figure 1.6 Operational and Time breakdown of Puncture Patches process
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Total time of operation- 335 sec (5.5 min)
Total pieces produced per hour =150
Problems/Findings
Applying glue takes a lot of time manually.

300 bottles of glue used daily.
Problem of the wrinkling of the puncture patches at the time of applying the patch
to the jeans.
Pressing m/c should be improved.
Unnecessary shifting/transporting of garment for ironing.
Solutions:
1. There should be a bowl, cup or any container where the glue can be poured.
2. There can be a Band-Aid applying arrangement of the puncture patches on the

jeans.Instead of applying the glue with the finger, brush or a flattened head stick
should be used.
Advantage- it will eliminate the wastage of the glue and will eliminate the time of
squeezing the bottle and putting extra effort.
3. 300 glue bottles are used in one hour of the 60 ml bottle costing 43 Rs/bottle
Therefore, total cost on glue bottles is (43×300)=12900 per day
Hence it’s better to use a big glue box of at Rs 200.
Advantage- this will cut the unnecessary cost spent on the buying of glues.
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4. While the process of applying the puncture patches with the glue there are
wrinkles often formed on the surface of the puncture patches which needs to go
through ironing which is involvement of an extra operation.
Thus there is a need of making the fabric wrinkle free so that even with poor
handling of the puncture patches there are no wrinkles and ironing is not required.
Advantage- elimination of an extra operation and saving inspection and ironing

time for the process.
5. The pressing machine has a pressure of 2 kg and temp-150ºC and contains two
beds in between which the jeans are kept and final pressing of the jeans is
processed for the prominent sticking of the puncture patches.
These beds are made of polymer material and hence because of excess
pressure and heat generated in the machine the beds are wrinkled and have
deformations which forms the unnecessary wrinkles and fabric gathering on the
jeans.
Hence there is a need of changing the beds from time to time to make the
wrinkle free jeans.
Advantage-elimination of an extra operation and proper pressing of the machine
saving inspection and ironing time for the process.
6. After the inspection some pieces need to be ironed for removing the wrinkles
and enhancing it ,thus there are iron tables available at the dry washing
department which is approx. 120 meters far from wet washing and involves extra
effort of carrying the lot from wet washing to dry washing.
So there should be iron tables available at the wet washing only.
Advantage- avoidance of extra effort in transportation.
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After implying the various recommendations and changes the time process change for
process breakdown and time study will change as shown in figure 1.7.
TIMEOPERATION AFTER IMPLEMENTATION
Figure 1.7 Time breakdown of Puncture Patches process after the implementation
Time achieved- 263.8 SEC
Time saved after implementation = 5.5 – 4.39 = 1.11 mins
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manpower
after implementation
4 workers decreased
before implentation
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Figure 1.8 Manpower Reduction of Puncture Patches process
Therefore as it is evident from figure 1.8 above that the reduction of manpower was
from 4 to 8 which is considerably a huge profit in terms of manpower.
This profit in terms of manpower is quite effective and profitable because these 4
workers can be used for other tasks rather than unnecessary being engaged in the
puncture patches process.
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IMPLEMENTATION
Success-
The bottles of glue are poured in the bowl initially and the bottles are also
cut when the glue is at its base so that that much of glue is also used.
A denim patch is used for pressing the patches.
Manpower is reduced from 8-4.
Time reduced from 335 sec to 263.8 sec for completing the process for
one denim.
Failure –
Wrinkles are hard to avoid so there will be ironing of the garment at the
last.
The pressing bed cannot be removed constantly.
Stick and brush allows drying of the glue on its surface and ruptures the
surface.
RESULT:
Hence we see only 1.1 min is saved but that is a lot to affect the production as in
a shift of 8 hours nearby 200-250 garments are completes thus there will be a
time saving of 250ˣ 1.1= 275 mins, hence proving a worthy time saving activity.
CONCLUSION
The two processes which were mould whiskering and puncture patches after the
improvement in the processes gave the profits in terms of cost cutting and manpower,
hence contributing in the productivity and efficiency.
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Project#2
Quality Checking and Audit Module

Quality Checking implies the continuous monitoring and evaluation of the output for
making it high in quality, which leads to a better productivity and sets the quality
standards.
Audit means an official inspection of the organizations account or the data to achieve
production at the required time, in required amount and also having good quality.
Hence the Quality Checking and Audit Module is a continuous activity to keep the
production in command and also get the best quality in time
In denim washing there is always a continuous monitoring and quality checking of the
garments,so there is a need of regular inspection of the garments for a better
productivity. Thus this quality module will bring the quality constraints close to the
authorized people and will benefit in malfunctioning the defects and the red tagged
activities.
Aim:
1. To reduce the unnecessary paperwork.

2. Cutting down the hierarchy of various reports.
3. Making a better and more feasible face report including all the required
constraints with the help of the existing ground level reports.
4. Inspecting each and every process and accounting its K.P.I’s (Key Performance
Indicators)
5. Maintaining the records of effective and non-effective production.
6. Maintaining the records for employee and their efficiency which will be helpful for
their incentives.
7. Developing a common database which is accessible to only authorized people.
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8. Other reports/queries and audits can be attached to the follow up of the
database.
Description:
In this setup, the Quality and Audit Module has a common process Breakdown as
shown in figure 2.1 but is divided into two sets of activities:
Set 1 deal with clubbing the various types of reports on the ground level which are non-
effective and need an improvement in terms of quality and feasibility to a more confined
and classified reports with all the constraints for each and every process for a) Dry
washing and b) Wet washing.
In both the parts there are different face reports for a) Quality checking and b) Auditing
Set 2 deals with making a common server along with database for the denim washing
unit which will be accessible for authorized people only and all the reports will be made
available on that server along with the queries, audits and the quality constraints.
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Process for making the Quality and Audit module setup
1.Collecting the ground level reports

(DRY WASHING & WET WASHING)
2.Researching and monitoring the

reports
3.Making a final face report
4.Implementing it on the
production floor
5.Developing the server with the

database
6. online auditing and attachment

of reports
Figure 2.1Standard Procedure for developing the Quality and Audit module Setup
Note: Steps 1, 2, 3 and 4 are done for both the areas of denim washing
separately, which are: a) Dry Process b) Wet Process. Whereas the 5 th and 6th
step is done collectively for both the areas.
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(A)Dry process
1. Collecting the ground level reports.

First step was to select the reports which were non-effective and needed an
improvement and collectthem for the Dry Process areawhich was already being
followed in the unit. This step was done for two areas
i. Quality checking
ii. Auditing
For QUALITY CHECKING

The reports under consideration were:
Dry process Update chart
Hand sanding report
Hand sanding final checking report
Mould whisker final checking report
Operators hourly production report
For AUDITING
The report under consideration was:
Dry process Q.A audit final report
Dry process Q.A audit report
Dry process Q.A final report
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2. Research and monitoring the reports.
FOR QUALITY CHECKING
For a synchronized quality checking in dry washing, 5 reports of quality which already
existed and were followed haphazardly were selected for the improvement. These
reports were:
1. Dry process update chart:(shown in figure 2.2)
Constraints:
Line wise
Process wise
Time wise
Date wise
Authority’s signature
Account of monthly production, Target/Hr, Production/Hr and Rework/Hr
Figure 2.2 Dry Process Update Chart
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2. Hand Sanding report
Constraints;
Employee wise
Shift wise
Style wise
Time wise
Shift wise
Date wise
% of rework, yellow tag and red tag.
Account of checked pieces, red tag pieces, and rework pieces.
Especially for major brands like LEVI’Sas shown in figure 2.3 and H&M as shown in
figure 2.4 there are different hand sanding reports which have the same constraints as
above.
Figure 2.3 H&M Hand Sanding Report
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Figure 2.4 LEVI’SHand Sanding Report
3. Hand Sanding Final Checking Report(shown in figure 2.5)
Constraints
Date wise
Module wise
Buyer wise
Style wise
Emery paper type
Account of checking quantity, pass quantity, rework quantity, folding mark, thread
mark, thread cut, yellow tag, checker name, red tag and rework status.
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Figure 2.5 Hand Sanding Final Checking Report
4. Mould Whisker Final Checking Report( shown in figure 2.6)
Constraints:
Buyer wise
Date wise
Time wise
Style wise
Emery paper type
Lot wise
% of rework
Account emery paper type, checking pieces, pass quantity, rework, yellow tag,
red tag, remarks, checker name and rework status.
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Figure 2.6Mould Whiskering Final Checking Report
5. Operators Hourly Production Report(shown in figure 2.7)
Constraints:
Buyer wise
Style wise
Shift wise
Date wise
Operator’s wise
Machine wise
Time wise
Account of sticker no. m/c no., orapps
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.Figure 2.7 Operators Hourly Production Report
FOR AUDITING
For a synchronized AUDITING in dry washing, two reports of quality which already
reports were:
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. 1. Dry Process Q.A Audit Final Report(shown in figure 2.8)
Constraints:
Buyer wise
Style wise
Lot wise
% of rework%, folding mark, thread mark, thread cut.
Account of sample size, rework quantity, folding mark, thread mark, and thread
cut, red tag, emery paper type, remarks and action.
Figure 2.8Dry Process QA Audit Final Report
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2. Dry Process Q.A Final Report(shown in figure 2.9)
Constraints:
Buyer wise
Style wise
Lot wise
% of rework%, folding mark, thread mark, thread cut, red tag.
Account of checked quantity, pass quantity, rework quantity, folding mark, thread
mark, and thread cut, red tag, remarks and action.
Figure 2.9Dry Process QA Final Report
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3. Dry Process Q.A Audit Report (shown in figure 2.11)
Constraints:
Buyer wise
Style wise
Lot wise
Account of orapps, yellow tag, red tag, pass, fail and remarks
Figure 2.10Dry Process QA Audit Report
These are the reports which have different constraints and keep account of various
attributes important for quality and auditing.
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Findings/Problems
i. In these reports for QUALITY and AUDITING there were constraints which were
common for the above reports like: date, time, lot, buyer and shift.
ii. The key performance indicators were not mentioned for different processes.
iii. Failed in making the use of all attributes in one along the quality check when the
attributes are common for most of the cases.
For solving these problems next step came into the action.
3. Making a final face report
FOR QUALITY:
For making the final face report named DRY WASHING Q.A AUDIT FINAL
REPORT, I applied a “SETS”theory/concept used in mathematics as shown in
figure 2.11:
This derives:
Considering any 3 above reports
Let, Dry process Update chart is set A
Hand sanding report is set B
Operator’s hourly production reportis set C
And, DRY PROCESS OPERATORS HOURLY CHECKING REPORT is
set Z.
And A, B and C are the subsets of set Z, then set diagram will be
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Figure 2.11.Set Theory of Constraints
The left colors are for the common constraints between the two or three sets of the set
Z, hence these constraints were made common and rest three constraints on the right
side were added to that report which was only a small percentage.
So the final face report named Operators Hourly Production Reporthad the
constraints:
i. Employee wise
ii. Time wise
iii. Buyer wise
iv. Date wise
v. Process wise
vi. Shift wise
vii. Line wise
viii. Shift wise
ix. Module wise
x. Authority’s signature
xi. % of rework, folding mark, thread mark, thread cut, red tag and DHU
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xii. Accounting pieces completed, sample size, rework quantity, folding mark,
thread cut, red tag, checker name, remark and action.
xiii. Separately can just tick on the process type : scrapping or whiskering
Hence there was a final face report called OPERATORS HOURLY

PRODUCTION REPORT
FOR AUDITING
The same “SETS” theory for constraints were used to make a final face report for
auditing which had all the constraints and most importantly the Key Performance
Indicators (K.P.I’s)were included to the final face report.
So the final face report named DRY PROCESS AUDIT FINAL REPORT had the
constraints:
Buyer wise
Style wise
Lot wise
% of rework%, folding mark, thread mark, thread cut, red tag.
Account of checked quantity, pass quantity,rework quantity, folding mark, thread
mark, and thread cut, red tag, emery paper type, remarks and action.
Key Performance Indicators (K.P.I’s) were the main attributes mentioned in the
report. These were:
For checking:
i. Displaying standard
ii. Shade matching
iii. Adequate light
iv. Marking
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For record:
i. Sand paper used
ii. Pressure of balloon
iii. Moulds used
Hence there was a final face report called DRY PROCESS AUDIT FINAL REPORT
Advantage of Making the Face Report in Dry Process:
1. All the required constraints for bulk production in dry wash present in the
report
2. It limited the three reports to one and decreased the paper work
3. It also substantially helped in checking the reports on an optimized level
4. Higher authority won’t find it difficult to look into one report rather than
searching for the other reports.
5. Key Performance Indicators mentioned in the required report.
6. Saving time and labor of the supervisors and managers.
7. Effective inspection
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B.) WET PROCESS
4. Collecting the ground level reports.

First step was to select the reports which were non-effective and needed an
improvement and collect them for the Wet Process areawhich was already being
followed in the unit. This step was done for two areas:
iii. Quality checking
iv. Auditing
For QUALITY CHECKING

The reports under consideration were:
1. Washing Quality Checking report
2. Washing Rework and Rejection details report
For AUDITING
The report under consideration was:
Washing Quality Process control lot wise audit report- Unwash
Washing and Dry process control lot wise audit report
Washing Quality Process control lot wise audit report- Semi Wash
Washing Process Control-Initial 5 Lots audit (Semi)
Washing Process Control-Initial 5 Lots audit (Final)
NOTE: In auditing reports 1,2 and 3 were combined to make one final face report and
report 4 and 5 were combined to make a final face report.
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2. Research and monitoring the reports
FOR QUALITY CHECKING
For a synchronized quality checking in wet washing, 2 reports of quality which already
reports were:
1. Washing quality checking report (shown in figure 2.12)
Constraints:
Buyer wise
Style wise
Date wise
Account of checked quantity, pass quantity, pass quantity, rework quantity and
remark
Figure 2.12Washing Quality Checking Report
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2. Washing Rework And Rejection Details Report(shown in figure 2.13)
Constraints:
Date wise
Style wise
Process wise
Various types of defects for wet process, pp spray, dry process, resin spray
Figure 2.13 Washing Rework and Rework Rejection Details Report
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FOR AUDITING
For a synchronized AUDITING in dry washing, two reports of quality which already
reports were:
1. Washing Quality Process Control Lot Wise Audit Report- Unwash(shown in

figure 2.14)
Constraints:
Buyer wise
Style wise
Date wise
Shift wise
Lot quantity wise
Audit quantity wise
Account of order quantity shade no., cut no., major defects, process
making, DP concept, audit status, authority’s signature, and remarks.
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Figure 2.14 Washing Quality Process Control Lot Wise Audit Report- Unwash
2. WASHING QUALITY PROCESS CONTROL LOT WISE AUDIT REPORT- SEMI

WASH (shown in figure 2.15)
Constraints:
Buyer wise
Style wise
Date wise
Lot quantity wise
Account of machine no., pass, fail, percentage, major defects,
authority’s signature and remarks
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Figure 2.15 Washing Quality Process Control Lot Wise Audit Report- Semi Wash
3. Washing And Dry Process Control Lot Wise Audit Report(shown in figure 2.16)
Constraints:
Buyer wise
Style wise
Date wise
Shift wise
Lot quantity wise
Account of order quantity, pass quantity, audit status, major defect, process
missing, DP concept, remarks, authority’s signature and orapps.
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Figure 2.16 Washing And Dry Process Control Wise Lot Report
4. Washing Process Control-Initial 5 Lots Audit (Semi)(shown in figure 2.17)
Constraints:
Buyer wise
Style wise
Order quantity wise
Date wise
Process wise
Shift wise
Checked quantity wise
Account of cut no., shade variation, authority’s sign, orapps and remarks
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Figure 2.17 Washing Process Control- Initial 5 Lots (Semi)
5. Washing Process Control-Initial 5 Lots Audit (Final)(shown in figure 2.18)
Constraints:
Buyer wise
Style wise
Order quantity wise
Date wise
Process wise
Shift wise
These are the reports which have different constraints and keep account of various
attributes important for quality and auditing.
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Figure 2.18 Washing Process Control- Initial 5 Lots (Final)
Findings/Problems
iv. In these reports for QUALITY and AUDITING there were constraints which were
common for the above reports like: date, time, lot, buyer and shift.
v. The key performance indicators were not mentioned for different processes in the
important reports.
vi. There was use of two different reports for the same attributes with the only
difference of a single variable.
vii. Failed in making the use of all attributes in one along the quality check when the
attributes are common for most of the cases
For solving these problems next step came into the action.
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5. Making a final face report
FOR QUALITY:
The same “SETS” theory for constraints were used to make a final face report for
Quality
Thus there was a final face report made for Quality for wet washing and also for dry
processing inspection at the wet washing area and following were the reports improved
and made for the production floor for wet washing:
a.) The final report for Quality came out as WASHING QUALITY CHECKING REPORT
having constraints as shown in figure 2.19 for wet process and figure 2.20 for dry
process:
Date wise
Lot wise
Buyer wise
Style wise
Account of pass quantity, rework quantity containing defects, total rework
quantity and remark.
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Figure 2.19 Washing Quality Checking Report
Figure 2.20 Washing Quality Checking Report(Dry Process)
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FOR AUDITING:
First three reports were improved and made appropriate for the correct auditing process
and a final report came out as:
WASHING QUALITY PROCESS CONTROL WISE AUDIT REPORT(shown in figure

2.21) having constraints:
Stage wise
Including the KEY PERFORMANCE INDICATORS (K.P.I’S)
Buyer wise
Style wise
Date wise
Lot wise
Shade wise
Cut wise
Account of lot quantity, audit quantity, pass, fail, major defects, process missing,
authority’s signature and remarks.
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Figure 2.21 Washing Quality Process Control wise Audit Report
The last two reports were clubbed and improved for making the following face report
named as WASHING PROCESS CONTROL-INITIAL 4 LOTS(shown in figure 2.22)
having constraints:
Reducing the 5 lots to 4 lots

Stage wise
Including the KEY PERFORMANCE INDICATORS (K.P.I’S)
Buyer wise
Style wise
Order quantity wise
Date wise
Process wise
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Shift wise
Figure 2.22 Washing Process Control-Initial 4 Lots
Advantage of Making the Face Report at Wet Process:

1. All the required constraints for bulk production in wet wash present in the
report
2. It limited the seven reports to three and decreased the paper work
3. It also substantially helped in checking the reports on an optimized level
4. Higher authority won’t find it difficult to look into one report rather than
searching for the other reports.
5. Key Performance Indicators mentioned in the required report.
6. Saving time and labor of the supervisors and managers.
7. Effective inspection
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4. Implementing it on the production floor.

After developing the final face report it was implemented and run on the floor,
the report which came out after the successful implementation was appropriate
for synchronized data and quality audit proving more advantageous for both the
QULAITY and AUDITING.
5. Developing the server with the database.

After making the various faces reports in dry process, I developed and enquired
software called IsoXpress shown in figure 2.23 in which QUALITY and
AUDITMODULE was made by me for the better functioning of the process and
record checking through the final face reports.
Figure 2.23 Quality and Audit module through IsoXpress
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Description about the IsoXpress
The software is a local server which is accessible via a username and a
password. We can insert the software in the computer and the person knowing
the username and password can access it.
Advantage of using IsoXpress as a local server
Using the software we can enquire and enter the reports online of quality
and audits.
Simultaneously we can attach the brief description of the reports via an
automatic indent.
Any authorized person can look into the reports without going to the
required place.
Requirement of IsoXpress in Denim Washing
There is a haphazard alignment and utilization of the reports.

There are many hierarchies of the reports in washing so using the software there
can be a cut on to the unnecessary use of this hierarchy format.
Most importantly the higher officials can look into the reports without running to
the dry process and wet process area.
Quality department can monitor on the activities regularly through the server
only.
6. Online auditing and attachment of qualityreports.

The online auditing and attachment of quality reports can be done in the
following steps:
STEP 1. ) Opening the software
STEP 2.) Entering the USERNAME and PASSWORD in the login pageas shown
in figure 2.24.
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Figure 2.24 Log In Screen
STEP 3.)Welcome page will be opened (shown in figure 2.25)
Figure 2.25 Home Screen
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STEP 4.)Click on the “Qlty Audits” option on the right side (shown in figure 2.26)
Figure 2.26 Quality Audit Option
STEP 5.)Add, Edit or delete the report with the help of the operations in the left top
side (shown in figure 2.27)
Figure 2.27 ”Internal Audit” Screen
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STEP 6.) To see the existing report, click on the report and a pop-up screen will
flash with 3 options:
1. Reports (shown in figure 2.29)
2. Attachments (shown in figure 2.30)
3. Template(shown in figure 2.31)
Figure 2.28 “Internal Audit Record” Screen
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o Click on “report” to see the brief description of the report with all necessary
details regarding the attachment
Figure 2.29 ”Report” Screen
o Click on “attachment” to open the report
Figure 2.30 “Attachments” Screen
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o Click on “templates” to change the format of option (i)
Figure 2.31 “Template” Screen
Hence by these steps we can make a synchronized module for quality and auditing
which is more effective and time saving.
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CONCLUSION
This module is set to bring close the quality and auditing aspects from ground
level of the production floor to the higher level. This module not only helps in
making the quality aspects more prominent but also increases the efficiency of
monitoring activities.
A common lay for quality and auditing is set for everyone in the denim washing
department and everyone is linked with the critical activities of the production.
LEARNING OUTCOME
Our internship at Arvind Mills Ltd. over the period of fourteen weeks has been a highly
enriching experience. We received the practical acumen of operations of various departments.
This has led to the belief that studying a subject and implementing it in real scenario are two
completely different tasks.
The project that we received on Measurement issues and Process Development and Quality
and Audit Module gave us knowledge in various fields and led to our practical involvement in
the industry.
As a part of internship we visited various departments and experienced firsthand how a

garment industry functions.
In pursuit of our project work we learnt that soft skills play a major role in receiving information
and having one’s work done. We also got opportunity to interact with operators and seniors for
getting information
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BIBLIOGRAPHY
http://www.arvindmills.com/pdf/quaterly_financial_reporting/ArvindC
orporatePresentationFebruary2012.pdf
http://www.arvindmills.com/pdf/annaul_finacial_reporting/annualrepo
rt201011.pdf
http://www.arvindmills.com/heritage/history.html
http://www.usatoday.com/story/news/world/2013/06/10/global-
carbon-emissions-record-high/2408487/
http://www.haverford.edu/educ/knight-booklet/chemreact.html
http://www.epa.gov/climatechange/ghgemissions/gases/co2.html
243 | P a g e
ANNEXURES
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS 2015

ARVIND LIMITED, LIFESTYLE APPAREL,

Internship Duration: - 25th May to 29TH AUGUST, 2015

APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT

Under the Guidance and Supervision of:

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD

S.NO TOPIC PAGE NO.

1. ABOUT THE COMPANY 8-20

3. CHAPTER 1- MERCHANDISING 23-30

4. CHAPTER 2- STORE DEPARTMENT 31-35

5. CHAPTER 3- FABRIC STORAGE 36-43

6. CHAPTER 4- TRIMS STORAGE 44-47

7. CHAPTER 5- LABORATORY 48-56

8. CHAPTER 6- SAMPLING AND PATTERN MAKING 57-72

9. CHAPTER 7- CUTTING 73-87

10. CHAPTER 8 - SEWING 88-100

11. CHAPTER 9 – INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING 101-104

12. CHAPTER 10 - WASHING 105-130

13. CHAPTER 11 – FINISHING AND PACKAGING 131-141

15 CHAPTER 12. PROJECTS 142-242

15.A PROJECT #1 143-186

15.B PROJECT #2 187-242

List of Figures and Tables

Figure .No TOPIC PAGE NO.

1 Work Flow in Organization 22

1.1 Process Flow In Merchandising Department 25

1.2 Process Functionality In Merchandising Department 26

1.3 Role Of Market And Product Merchandising 29

1.4 Hierarchy In Merchandising 30

2.1 Fabric And trim Storage 31

3.1 Fabric Storage 36

3.2 Layout of Fabric Storage 37

3.3 Process Flow Of Fabric Storage 38

3.4 Sections Of Fabric Storage 38

3.5 Shade Segregation Details 40

3.6 Fabric Inspection Process 42

3.7 Activity chart Of fabric Storage 43

4.1 Trim Storage 44

4.2 Layout of Trim Storage 45

4.3 Process Flow of Trim Storage 46

5.1 Tests performed in Lab 51

6.1 CAD & Sampling Department 57

6.2 Layout Of Sampling Department 59

6.4 Sewing Section Of sampling Department 69

7.1 Cutting Department 73

7.2 Layout Of Cutting Department 74

7.3 Process Flow Of Cutting Department 75

7.4 Activity Flowchart Of Cutting Department 77

7.5 Fabric Relaxation 79

7.7 Labeling & Cutting 83

7.8 Embroidery section 85

7.9 Numbering, Bundling & Audit Section 87

8.1 Sewing department 88

8.2 Sewing Lines 90

8.3 Layout Of sewing Lines 91

8.4 Process Flow Of Sewing department 93

8.5 Wash care label Standard 97

9.1 Industrial Engineering Department 101

10.1 S.O.P Of Washing Department 106

10.2 Layout Of Dry Washing 107

10.3 Process Flow of Laser operations 109

10.4 Hand scrapping 111