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Raif Esmerovic

Wheat and bread


in the tradition of
the Bosnian people

The old Bosnian prophecy suggests that 40 years before the Day of Judgment,
the sheep, bees and wheat, three heavenly gifts will disappear from Earth.

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Introduction
Sour bread
Archeologists found in their
Despite the fact that
diligent research, human traces that
scientific-research data on the
found material evidence of primitive
beginnings of cultivation of wheat practices that they described as a
and the appearance of bread still
process of pressing stones of wheat
complement the new knowledge, we grain. The aforementioned technique,
still have enough relevant facts
which was aimed at extracting the
today to create a very clear picture pulp, i.e. the grain interior, dates
of the genesis and evolution of the
back to 30,000 years before the new
most important food of mankind.
era, and served the people at that
According to Wikipedia, "wheat time to consume it raw or dried, as
(Triticum spp.) Is a type of cereal they followed the traces of wild
originating from the Levantian and animals. According to experts, 7,000
Middle East areas. Archeological years BC, in the time of the
finds indicate that the so-called Neolithic Revolution,
domestication of wheat occurred for people began to discover the bread
the first time in areas known as the that we know today. It was the time
"Fertile Crescent" Wheat breeding when people began to discover
began to spread beyond the "Fertile agriculture and cattle breeding,
Crescent“ only after 8000 BC. Jared which resulted in permanent
Diamond studied the spread of settlements, breeding and grain
cultivated varieties of twin wheat, picking of wild wheat. It all happens
begun in the "Fertile Crescent" in the area of today's Iraq, between
about 8800 BC. Archaeological the two rivers of Tigris and
analyzes of wild twin wheat showed Euphrates. In Egypt, grain growing
that it was first cultivated in the occurs around 5000 years BC, when the
southern regions of Levant, where level of Nile has decreased
its remains dates back to about 9600 sufficiently to allow people to live
BC. Genetic analysis of wild twin in the long river valley.
wheat suggests that it was first
Since the development of a letter in
cultivated in Karaca Dağ mountains Iraq appears only about 3000 years
in southeastern Turkey.
before the new era, it is only
Archaeological remains of possible to speculate on the exact
single-grain wheat in the
timing of a loaf of bread. But the
excavations of settlements near the first discovered clay tiles in
area, including those at Tell Abu
places such as Sumer clearly show
Hureyre in Syria, indicate that the that the sowing of wheat, harvest and
domestication of twin wheat occurred
bread production was then firmly
near the Karaca Dağ mountain range."
established.

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Archaeological studies have led to historian Pliny states that our
the realization that the people at ancestors Illyrians worshiped an
that time used to grind grains of unnamed goddess to whom the women
wheat and this was converted by the offered a gift of wheat grain.
primitive process into flour. They
would add some water and honey and As early as 3000 years ago, the
leave it in the air to create bread on the European continent
mushrooms of yeast, as a result of deservedly gained its central place
which it expanded and got the volume. in religious ceremonies, due to the
The processed dough would burn on a indisputable fact that it was the
heated stone, and in the end it would main food for most of the then people.
get the so-called sour bread. In metaphorical meaning, bread was
the most authentic divine gift of
human kind. And by that, it was an
indestructible symbol of survival.
Mythical aspect In accordance with all of the above,
his socio-cult role is most
remarkably represented in the
Wheat, as a seed of life, has always rituals of sowing and harvest, which
been compared to a woman. evidenced is the basis of the Pagan celebration
by the lengthy list of divinities of Wheel of the Year, which
dedicated to it, which in itself symbolizes the threshing floor
leads to the conclusion that from the itself, through the cyclical marking
earliest times, traditionaly, women of eight festivals old religion
have been engaged in the production nature. This was especially
of bread. In some legends, the grain highlighted by the celebration of
of wheat are the tears of Universal the beginning of the light of the
Mother, who blesdes with them the year; on the night between April 30
Earth and provided a food for their and the first May - Beltaine.
children.
Bread known as bannock played a key
In ancient Mesopotamia, the goddess role in glorifying this great pagan
of wheat is Ashnan, near the Sumerian holiday. The central part of the
goddess Nidab, who was also the deity ceremony was based on the burning of
of writing, and the patron of the holy fire on the holiday night with
city of Eresha. According to Greek the intent to protect the domestic
mythological traditions, all cattle. On the heat of the blazing
cereals were consecrated to Demetri, fire, the cattle-breeders would bake
while with the Romans, Ceres had this bannock to which prophylactic power
privilege. The Egyptians celebrated was attached. By sharing and
Tenenet, the goddess of bread, but consuming bannock, the human
the birth as well. The cult of wheat community was thus interconnected in
did not bypass Bosnia and the night of the festival as well as
Herzegovina. Thus, the Roman with its divinities. Literally, as

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many times before, through the with the same meaning was created -
consumption of bread, the ancient Bog (God).
alliance of man and the God of Sun
was confirmed. In addition to this noun, some other
nouns in Bosnian language are used
The use of bread, as sacred matter, for this word, such as hljeb (bread).
is also found in the solar cult of This noun is also in everyday
the Persian god Mithra, which was linguistic use, and somun or nimet,
born by the virgin goddess Anahita traditional terms relatively
on December 25th. Mithrini rituals present to a lesser extent and
included baptism, communion, and exclusively in the older population
secretive meal including bread, and more evident in rural areas.
water and wine. The Romans, as the
founders of Christianity, fully Traditionally, bread is divided into
assimilated all the myths and three types: wheat bread or somun
rituals of the Persian cult and bread (with yeast), corn bread or
transformed it into the faith of koruza, and pogača - without yeast.
Jesus. In addition, a bun may be added,
which varies in appearance between
It is interesting to note that in bread and baked noodles, a kind of
Bosnia and Herzegovina, in the area bun that the housewives bake in the
of Jajce, there is a Mithra temple stove. A few days later, if necessary,
constructed during the Roman they can easily and quickly make a
occupation of Ilirikum. pie. It should also be emphasized
that somun is not a bun (lepinja),
but the name for homemade round bread,
at least in the area of northwestern
The traditional role of Bosnia.
bread in Bosniaks

Said the other: "I see myself


carrying a bread on my head, and
birds are eating, myself." (Qur'an:
chapter Yusuf, vers 36.)

Among linguists, the Bosnian term


kruh (bread) is assumed to be derived
somun
from the Arabic word khubzte, which
by adaptation, like many other
Oriental terms, is adapted for
easier pronunciation. Another good We could also add maslenica (masnica,
example is the Persian name Bagha maslenjak) to this list, which is
from which, by permutation, our word actually accompanying today’s puff

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pastry, and if bread runs out, many the granddaughter of the main
use it at lunch as a substitute for character of this true story. During
bread. In Velika Kladus and Cazin, the Second World War, livestock was
it is known as „kisela masnica“, killed as a result of frequent
which is prepared so that the bread shelling, especially sheep in
dough is aligned (rolled to a smaller pastures. At that time of poverty and
width, topped with oil and cream and scarcity such loss was immensely
overlaid as in the standard difficult for many families.
procedure for maslenica. Then, let Following his grandmother's advice,
the dough swell in the pan and then Rasimin's father, at that time a boy,
it's ready to bake. tied a small wrap containing three
grains of wheat to each sheep.
Coincidentally, or by some miracle,
not a single sheep died afterwards,
The ancient power of grain while their neighbors did.

The prophylactic power of wheat in


But before we devote ourselves to northwestern Bosnia has always been
the customs associated with this well known especially because,
primary food, it is necessary to according to popular legend, Mujo
bring out at least a few folklore Hrnjica wore a sewn bag of nine
beliefs about wheat itself, one of grains of wheat on the right side of
the three holy gifts of paradise. his suit. The amulet kept him
faithfully until his enemies found
According to the testimony of Hasiba out about her. That amulet was stolen
P., from Velika Kladusa, a vital and the day before the death of Bosnian
long-lived old woman who never Hercules.
visited a doctor in her life. As a
young girl, she adopted from her A short paper on folk medicine
mother-in-law the custom of putting entitled "Herbal and Miraculous
one grain of wheat in each pot after Healing According to Mustafa
each of her five daily prayers. When Muhibbi's Manuscripts of Sarajevo
she collects exactly 100, she bathes, Kadija" outlines the traditional
and then pours lukewarm water into treatment of wheat grains in
that jar of grain and bathes in that combination with Islamic science:
water. After getting dressed, the On the night of Friday, or day, 1000
grains are picked up from the bottom
grains of wheat are taken and Ihlas
of the tub and tossed to the birds
is prayed one at a time over each.
to eat. The grain is taken to the sermon
Another interesting story about the after the prayer on Fridays, and then
marvelous powers of wheat grain I spread on the roof of the mosque for
learned, and of course wrote, some the birds. As it spills, it is said:
twenty years ago from Mrs. Rasima L.,

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Make the disease disappear in the NN
(patient name) as this grain
disappears into the bellies of the Salt and bread
birds.

Undoubtedly, wheat grains here


Salt and flour are inseparable from
assume the role of a particular
one another in the tradition of our
sacrifice or offering that
symbolically pays for healing. We people, where they are elevated to
the divine pedestal, because of
find similar ritual practices in the
cult of the dead. An example to their immeasurable importance in
daily life and nutrition. Therefore,
support the above was recorded in
they deserve and occupy a central
northwestern Bosnia (Velika Kladuša,
Cazin, Bužim) where it used to be a place in certain ritual practices of
invoking prosperity and protecting
custom, that after the dead was taken
out of the house, at the place where them from harm.
he lay to put a pot of wheat, which It is noticeable that in a certain
some of the household, after burial, way in the folk religion salt
take to the poor house and give as represents the sky and bread
alms. represents the earth.
Of course, this is not the only So, in order to ward off storms,
example where grains have taken on especially hail and ice, old women
the sacrificial role of dead or even in the Gracanica area bring a trivet
evil spirits, as documented in the (sadzhak) out, turn it upside down
practice cited by Muhamed Hadzijahic and put a spoonful of salt on it.
(Sarajevo mosques in folk tradition)
where the author writes:

The people believe that the treasure


can be dug only when it is done,
determined by the one who buried the
treasure. In our narrative it is
stated that blood should be released.
According to other news, digging
treasure should be done, what he did
the one who buried the treasure (for
example, it fell off, and even the
one who excavates the treasure has
to untie the belt, because otherwise
the treasure would sink, and he would
never be able to pull it out). it Sadzhak metal tripod, on which in a wood
stood slightly but must be filled stove (in a bakery or oven) was placed a pan
with grain or whatever. in which bread or pie was baked.

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In pursuit of this assumption, in my Cisic, a landlord from Mostar. He
research I came across the following knows, too, that the old women
divination formula of extremely adhered to that belief, so he told
interesting content, in which, me about a house in Mostar, in which
through the appointment of Hazrat even today unsalted bread is eaten
Fatima, the substitute for the Great for the same, already mentioned,
Mother, they connect (swear) salt purpose.
and bread:

The described belief is not found in


Hazrat Fatima, other parts of Bosnia, at least not
swear to the earth, the sky, in such a recorded form, and it can
the salt, the bread, therefore be concluded that it was
help the one who needs
of a local character.
it to fulfill his wish.
However, it is assumed that among our
However, in the rich tradition that people, salt was dedicated to some
has been cherished by our people for divine being or spirit, presumably
centuries, there have been some the protector of domestic livestock,
examples where the merging of salt such as the mythical Tur, and that
and bread into one component was it was given to him, much like the
avoided. The Herald of the National peel of peeled fruit to the Great
Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina Heavenly Bird (Huma).
published a short ethnological paper Following on from this assumption,
entitled "Dashes from the People", it would be interesting to present
in which the author describes a the belief from Velika Kladusa where
somewhat strange custom of unsalted old women still believe that they had
bread among Bosniak people in done a good deed if, by accident,
Herzegovina. The reason for this was they forgot to add salt to the flour
the fear that if the taboo was not in the preparation of bread.
respected, the disease could hit
domestic livestock. We should also mention the custom in
which salt is used for the purpose
- This is what H. Abdaga Tolic, a of frightening a witch who would
landlord from Mostar, told me, and appear in the form of a butterfly at
among other things, he tells me that night (with the magic formula: "Come
these spells were held firmly by old tomorrow, and let me give you salt!")
women. Among other things, he told and in her appearances she regularly
me about a Muslim house in Mostar, aimed at domestic cattle, especially
in his neighborhood, in which bread a cow, which according to the people
is never salted for the purpose of would "feed half the house."
not killing domestic livestock. This
was later confirmed to me by Ibraga

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The marvelous powers of Here is a very clear identification
of the elder of the house (host) with
God’s gift
the sofra and the gift of God that
is on it.

In the classical conception, all In Bosnia and Herzegovina, it has


that is considered sacred and divine been believed since ancient times
is bounded by various taboos, in that if one of the household members
order to emphasize the importance of eats bread outside of the home,
what is revered. When a discussion walking down the street, it will
begins, especially justification, bring bad luck to the house.
then the one who defends himself
Supposedly, if only one drop of rain
points his hand at the bread and says:
falls on that piece of bread, he will
"I speak the truth, I swear on this
no longer be in the house. Poverty
beautiful gift of God!"
and scarcity will prevail in that
Probably because of its sacred house. If one of the elders would
status, it has always been meet such a person on the street,
considered a great sin to walk on they would shout at him:"Why bring
bread crumbs, and one of the a misfortune on the house? Didn't you
punishments is the possibility of have time to sit at the table and eat
"ograjiše" or "nagazi", that is, that piece of bread, the God's
attracting physical or mental gift?".
illness.

According to the traditional custom,


the housewife would always put bread The cult of the Great Mother
first on the table (sinija or sofra),
while serving lunch or dinner, and
then other dishes, thus marking it Bread has also found its ritual
as primus. The sanctity of wheat and application in magic rituals for
bread as the final product is also preserving marriage. Apart from the
reflected in the popular belief that emphatic suggestive form, these
the sofra or sinija should not be ritual practices are the best
shaken, “because angels hold it with confirmation of the thesis that
their hands”. The great grandparents women, from the very beginning,
in the northwest of Bosnia had great played a dominant role in the process
respect for the dining table, which of making bread and maintaining the
can be argued through the custom of cult of the Great Mother personified
getting rid of the one who laughs or through the numerous goddesses of
scoffs at the dinner table during the ancient times.
lunch. The host would literally
chase him by saying:"Get away from Old Bosniak women once believed that
my dining table, thief and enemy!" if they used their bare hands to

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remove bread from baking bell(sač) the cult of the Great Mother, imbued
and spread the embers, that by this with witchcraft, preserved by women
risky act and by unambiguousl through many centuries, precisely
sacrifice, they would gain magical through such and similar ritual acts.
power in appeasing an aggressive It also reveals a certain feminist
husband. resistance against the patriarchy,
and the evolutionary struggle of
- "On one occasion, a woman was women for equality, and even the
removing bread from a baking bell, hidden desire for domination as it
and with her bare hands she quickly once existed in the Illyrian
folded those ashes and embers on the matriarchy. As evidence of this, it
hearth. - What are you doing, you're would be interesting to cite the
gonna burn your hands! "Let me go, continuation of the recorded
I must, I'm miserable. I don't want conversation:
a hearth as angry with me as my
husband! If I hug the embers of bread, - "When my husband goes to his
then my husband won't be mad at me mistress, I take a piece of bread and
anymore!" put it in my mouth, then I go into
the oven, and loudly summon his name
through the chimney. Then he must
leave the mistress at once and return
home to me, otherwise he would be
overwhelmed with anxiety and
restlessness."

The fact that bread is considered


sacred, and therefore magical,
represents the belief that dried
breadcrumbs can be used as a
substitute for incense, if not
present, to allow the amulet to slip
through the smoke several times or
smoke over. In the past, this was
often the practice of the old poor
Hodža’s and others who used to write
talismans and amulets.

Ritual practices related to hearth


and bread (wheat) undoubtedly stem Bread as medicine
from Illyrian shamanism whose legacy,
through many traditional beliefs, is
inherited by the Bosnian people. And In my opinion, that well-known
some other recorded magical beliefs Bosnian ritual of chasing away an
evil fate or accident by knocking on
associated with the hearth allude to

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a tree actually has its origins in
ancient custom with housewives who Anyone who wants to get rid of black
checked whether bread was baked in magic takes a kilo of bread, crumples
the oven. Specifically, they would it in nylon and goes to a bridge with
knock the curled finger over the it.
surface of the bread (crust), so if
it sounded hollow, it would mean that Standing on the bridge, he turns the
the bread was baked. As wheat and bag three times around, around his
bread in our nation are associated stomach, clockwise, or popularly
with the holy and the divine, that said "as the sun goes", and then
is, God Himself, knocking on a hard shakes the crumbs into the water. By
surface imitated the very knock in belief, this is alms to the fish, to
the crust of bread- the desire for feed them, and they will in return
God’s protection was signaled. "eat" the black magic from this man
and thus release him from the
Probably for this reason it is "not negative impact.
good" to turn the bread upside down
on the crust, because it is blasphemy
and entails an adequate punishment, Buy bread!
or suspicion of evil and poverty.
The old story of our people mentions
Bread is, because of everything the kumra (Streptopelia decaocto),
written so far, a true symbol of a bird that won the hearts of all the
God's blessing. The bride enters her saints, so much so that they asked
new home by carrying Qur'an under one Allah to grant her the power of
hand and bread under the other. And speech and thus make her more
in doing so, one equates to the other privileged than all other animals.
in its importance. Also, in Bosniak And God please them. But one day, the
wedding customs, the newlyweds saints complained to dear Allah that
"break the cake" and on this occasion the people had corrupted, become
one looks at who has a larger piece enraged and ungrateful. These words
in their hand, because greater angered God, and He commanded the
happiness is foreseen. Furthermore, saints to send to men: drought,
"wedding cake" has always been famine, and pestilence. Fortunately,
considered a very healthy meal the kumra heard all that they had
against various types of diseases. agreed upon, and flew to the ground
immediately to alert people of the
Other curative procedures were also impending disaster.
noted. If a man lost the will to eat,
he was advised to steal some bread Whatever house she lands on, she
from a gypsy bag and eat it. would cry out loud to the people to
Supposedly, afterwards, his good harvest the wheat and fill their
appetite will return. barns as quickly as possible because
God decided to send a drought and
In Velika Kladuša, when someone gets famine on them. The people, knowing
an itch or sugreb(sarcoptes scabiei), what honor the kumra enjoys with the
he takes a piece of bread, rubs a saints, took her warning very
piece of bread at a spot that is seriously and made sure that they did
caught by the rash, and then throws as she said, and thus escaped hunger.
it to the dog to eat.

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Upon learning from the saints what this species during World War I. At
the kumra had done to them, He least that is how it seemed. But,
immediately deprived her of the after the war, she reappeared and
power of speech, but after a while multiplied. The invaders also took
he showed her mercy for being good aim at it during World War II, but
to people, so he returned her voice, it still saved the seed. Now she no
but only so much that she could warn longer trusts people and does not
people every year that they needed nest on the roofs, but hides in the
to appreciate the bread. That is why, branches of cypress trees.
according to the Bosnian people, she
constantly repeats the warning as There is more to the story of bread
she lands near someone's house; "Buy and one of these legends reaches the
bread!", "Buy bread!", Thus wanting time when the Romans ruled over the
to warn the people that bread should whole of Illyricum. At that time
not be tossed but as a gift from God, there was a father with seven sons
it should be appreciated and every and one daughter. Their lives went
crumb should be picked up from the on peacefully and calmly until one
table. day, the brothers, out of pure
boredom, set bread on stone, as a
target, and began to compete for who
would hit it with a spear. Their
laughter and shouts abruptly
interrupted the strange event -
blood spilled from the spear-struck
bread. Seeing what the sons had done,
the old father clutched his head,
realizing that they had drawn the
wrath of the gods, and that they
would be punished for sacrilege.
Soon the father dies, and the sons
leave the parental home one after the
other, leaving in every direction of
Husein Cisic wrote about the kumra the world, where every trace of them
and her privileged position with the is lost. In the end, only a daughter
Bosnian people in his book "The remains in the house, who is turned
Beginning and Development of the into a great serpent by the gods and
City of Mostar": tasked with guarding their treasure.
Kumra is a typical Mostar bird The third bread legend tells the
transferred to our city from the east, story of how people lived long ago
where it became domesticated as in in a time of great prosperity. This
its native place. There were made them so arrogant and vain that
attempts to move her to other places, they made themselves bread shoes and
but she would always flee back to our walked like that. This angered the
city. She enjoyed complete immunity gods, who sent them drought and
here, because in the old days there famine for several years. This
was no Mostarac who would not protect terrible event resulted in mass
her if they saw that someone had deaths when the population halved in
thrown a stone at her or something numbers.
else. The Germans almost eradicated

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Folk beliefs and prophecies If there is hair in the bread, the
host will move away from the house.
There are many beliefs about bread, When the bread falls out of your
which are basically divinatory since hands, it means the barn will be
they always foresee future events. emptied.
I am quite sure that there is no place
in all of BiH where there are no at When a husband finds a piece of
least a few "bread superstitions". clothing in his bread, it is a sign
Most of them are identical with the that he will soon lose his wife.
beliefs of nearby or further towns
and cities, although there are When the bread breaks in half, you
certainly some local ones. In Velika can hope for the journey or the
Kladuša, for example, it is believed arrival of the passengers.
that a young man or a girl who spills
a lot of bread while eating is When the bottom crust breaks from the
unhappy in love. Tomo Dragicevic bread and remains on the hearth, it
(People's Superstitions, GZM, is a sign that the hostess is polite
Sarajevo) wrote something about such and loyal.
and similar folklore considerations,
so I cite those who, due to the If a housewife rises bread from a
modernization of their lifestyles, fire, and breaks it by accident, it
are almost completely forgotten. is a sign that she and her husband
will quarrel.

When the bread is eaten and the piece If the housewife breaks the bread
falls to the ground from the mouth before the host, she will divorce and
or a spoon, they say that someone in marry another man. That's why the
the family is hungry. head of the house always breaks bread
and puts it on the table.
When the bread does not swell, it is
a sign that someone in the house will
die.

When the bread is halved, the bread


crust should not be turned inside
when the pieces are placed on the
table, because it is upside down so
that they are not upside down in life.
If anyone is fooled and turns the
bark inside, they will say "no to the
gallows."

When there is coal or a piece of wood


in the bread, it hints at a
stillborn.

When an insect is found in the bread, If a dog, cat, or a mouse breaks the
it means that the homeowner will grow bread first, fear the bastard
in luck. arrival, because it is believed that

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when she (the wife) looks after
another men, those animals eat her
bread.

The housewife, who wastes a lot of


bread and throws it to the cattle,
it is believed that she is the enemy
of the house she lives in.

If the housewife brings bread to the


table first and then spoons, it means
that her husband needs to find
another woman for himself, because
she has found a lover for herself.

If a householder does not break bread


in front of one family member but
breaks and takes it in front of
another, it is a sign that the family
member will soon marry.

If a household member receives two


pieces of bread from the host, it is
a sign that they will have children.
If the host has some bread left at Velika Kladuša
the table, he will, so they claim,
lend to others his grain, and if he Bosnia & Herzegovina
has abundant bread, then he will have
to borrow grain from the others. 16.08.2019.

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