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PRAGUE Discover

Guide

TOP SIGHTS • TOURS • MAPS • EXPERT ADVICE


DINNER
ON THE RIVER
CRUISE
Including a buffet dinner, aperitif and live music on board.
Free pickup from your hotel around 6:20pm.
Cruise starts at 6:40pm and finishes at 10pm.

Although Prague is a beautiful city no matter what time of day, it‘s especially
enchanting by night. When the sun goes down, twinkling lights illuminate the
city‘s ancient buildings, which are best seen from the River Vltava running
through the city‘s centre. On our Prague river cruise, you‘ll travel down the
Vltava, passing famous sights like Charles Bridge, Lesser Town, the Church of
St Nicholas, Prague Castle and the National Theatre - all while enjoying dinner
and live music on board. Dinner is a buffet of both hot and cold dishes, and
you‘ll also receive a welcome drink included in the cruise price.
Upon boarding the boat you will be welcomed by our hostess who will
take care of you during the cruise. The hostess does not substitute for a guide;
nevertheless, she will provide you with at least the basic information on the
cruise programme and assist you if you have any inquiries. There are also
professional barkeepers and catering staff looking after you.

CIAL DEAL
SPEC
SP
CZK 690 (€ 27) WITH A FREE PICKUP
Heated in winter and air-conditioned in summer

+420 222 554 211 www.prague-airport-transfers.co.uk


Contents

Introduction 4

History of Prague.................................... 6 Accommodation.................................... 10


Brief Facts about Prague................... 6 Our Hotel Picks.................................... 11
Trip Planning............................................. 7 Safety..........................................................12
Money and Costs.................................. 7 Watch out for Pickpockets..............12
Best Time to Visit................................. 9 Dishonest Taxi Drivers......................12
Clothes & Packing................................ 9 Scams in Prague Restaurants........13
Advice for Saving Money................... 9 Health.....................................................13

Activities 14

Suggested Itineraries.......................... 16 Puppet Show....................................... 22


Prague in One Day............................. 16 Výstaviště Exhibition Grounds...... 22
Prague in Two Days............................ 17 National Technical Museum.......... 22
Prague in Three Days........................ 18 Pedalos.................................................. 23
Prague in One Week......................... 19 Toy Museum......................................... 23
Popular Activities................................. 20 Prague Zoo........................................... 23
The Best Place for a View Aquapalace.......................................... 23
over the City......................................... 21 Railways Toy Museum...................... 23
Activities for Families Public Holidays...................................... 24
with Children.......................................... 22 Annual Events and Festivals............ 26

Transportation 28

Prague Public Transport.................... 30 Reservation and Tickets.................. 36


Prague Airport..................................... 30 Main Bus Station............................... 36
Getting to The City............................ 30 Vintage Car Tours............................... 36
Prague Metro....................................... 30 Horse and Carriage Trips................ 36
Prague Trams........................................31 Segways Tours......................................37
City Buses..............................................31 Cycling.....................................................37
Map – Metro, Trams and Trains Private Intercity Transfers.............. 38
of Prague Integrated Transport.... 32 Excursions and Transfers
Taxis........................................................ 34 Organized by Prague Airport
Public Transport Fares..................... 34 Transfers................................................ 41
Main Train Station............................. 35 Prague Taxi Services......................... 43
 1
Contents

Shopping 44

What Souvenir to Buy?....................... 46 Czech Marionettes............................. 48


Czech Crystal, Glass, Porcelain Absinthe................................................ 48
and Ceramics....................................... 46 Handicrafts and Gifts....................... 48
Beads and Jewellery Design Shops...................................... 49
Imitations............................................. 47 Shopping Malls................................... 50
Czech Garnet....................................... 48

Restaurants and Cafés 52

Czech Cuisine......................................... 54 Expensive Restaurants.....................57


Tipping in Restaurants.................... 54 Czech Traditional Restaurants������ 59
Cheap Restaurants............................ 54 Vegetarian Restaurants................... 62
Restaurant Picks................................ 55 Famous Cafés�������������������������������������� 62

Pubs and Bars 64

Pubs........................................................ 66 Bars......................................................... 70

Entertainment and Nightlife 72

Museums................................................74 Rock Clubs.............................................82


Galleries.................................................75 Blues and Jazz Clubs........................ 83
Cinema....................................................76 Discos..................................................... 83
The Performing Arts...........................76 Adult Clubs........................................... 84
Best Theatres in Prague...................78 Casinos.................................................. 85
Church Concerts..................................81 Massage and Spa............................... 85

Sights 86

Top Sights................................................ 87 Prague Castle and Hradčany............ 92


Neighbourhoods................................... 88 Prague Castle (Pražský hrad)......... 92

2
Sights

Prague Castle Courtyards................ 94 Prague Gheto..................................... 132


Belvedere.............................................. 97 Mysterious Jewish Quarter........... 133
Prague Castle Gallery....................... 97 Franz Kafka......................................... 134
St. Vitus Cathedral............................. 98 Pařížská Street.................................. 134
Loreta......................................................104 St. Agnes Convent............................ 135
Strahov Monastery.............................106 Petřín Hill............................................... 138
Schwarzenberg Palace......................108 Petřín Look-Out Tower................... 139
Old Town (Staré Město).................... 110 Hall of Mirrors................................... 139
Charles Bridge.................................. 110 Nebozízek Restaurant.................... 139
Old Town Square.............................. 115 Vrtba Garden..................................... 139
Astronomical Clock......................... 118 Petřin to Strahov Walk................... 139
St. Nicholas’ Church........................ 118 Church of Our Lady
Little Square (Malé náměstí)...... 118 Victorious............................................140
New Town (Nové Město).................. 124 Lesser Town.......................................... 142
Wenceslas Square........................... 125 St. Nicholas’ Church........................ 143
Na Příkopě.......................................... 126 Nerudova Street............................... 144
Municipal House.............................. 128 Lennon Wall....................................... 146
Dancing House................................. 130 Žižkov Television Tower................. 147
Old Jewish Quarter Josefov............ 132 Vyšehrad............................................. 148

Tours and Excursions 150

Prague Walking Tours.........................151 Excursions.............................................. 156


4-hour Free Prague Kutná Hora......................................... 158
Walking Tour...................................... 152 Karlovy Vary.......................................160
6-hour Superior Tour Český Krumlov.................................. 162
of Prague............................................. 154 Terezín.................................................. 164
Where, When and How to Pilsner Urquell Brewery................166
Join Us.................................................. 155 Karlštejn..............................................168
Dresden............................................... 170

Language 172

Famous Czechs 174

 3
Introduction

Charles Bridge – commissioned in 1357, this 516m-long stone bridge was the only
link across the Vltava River and Prague Castle and the Old Town until 1841
Introduction

T o enjoy the city to the fullest, regardless of


whether you are visiting Prague just for a short
time or for a full week, our guide will be there to
help you discover the best of it. But, also be pre-
pared to abandon our suggested sightseeing itiner-
aries and wander wherever your mood takes you.

Just take our guide and a map and cape crowds, visit other lofty vantage
explore. Don‘t overlook the small points like Petřín, Vyšehrad or Letná.
side streets and courtyards where The capital was untouched by natu-
Prague is often at its most charm- ral disasters for six hundred years and
ing. Don’t worry about getting lost, was undamaged by WWII. Few other
Prague’s centre is quite compact and European cities can offer you a such
best explored on foot. However, when unforgettable experience, just by walk-
you get tired, take the tram or metro. ing through the redeveloped Baroque,
Public transportation is very efficient, Rococo and Art Nouveau streets.
cheap and one of the best in Europe. One of the reasons that Prague is
Spend some time in traditional so popular is that there is so much to
Czech pubs and cafés, do some do in the city. From clubs to concerts
shopping, take a few romantic pho- there is something for everyone.
tos of Charles Bridge, all-the-while Despite Prague no longer being
marvelling at the beauty of a thou- the bargain destination it once was,
sand spires that have already attract- it is still a very affordable city where
ed millions of tour groups. many attractions can be visited free
Prague is a city of red rooftops of charge or with low admission. Our
and thousand spires, of wooded guide book will also give you an idea
hills with splendid views. And one of of what prices to except when you
the best views over the city is from go clubbing, visit a concert or dine
Prague Castle. But if you prefer to es- at restaurants.
 5
Introduction

History of Prague the European Union in 2004. Now,


it is a very popular tourist destina-
Founded in the latter part of the 9th tion — according to statistics, it is the
century, Prague became the seat of 5th most visited city in Europe.
the kings of Bohemia. The city flour- Prague has a huge number of
ished during the 14th century reign buildings of special architectural
of Charles IV, who ordered the build- interest. In 1992, the historical cen-
ing of the New Town, the Charles tre of the city, covering 866 hectares
Bridge, St Vitus Cathedral and the (3.34 square miles), was listed in the
Charles University. UNESCO World Cultural and Natural
For centuries, Prague was a multi- Heritage Register.
ethnic city with an important Czech, No matter where you go, you will
German and (a mostly Yiddish, Ger- discover parts of the city’s multilayer
man speaking) Jewish population. The history dating back to the Holy Ro-
four cities that previously formed man Empire, the Habsburg Empire,
Prague only unified in 1784 to proclaim the first Czechoslovak Republic (1918),
the Prague we know today. These four the Nazi Protectorate of Bohemia and
cities were Hradčany, Lesser Town, Old Moravia, the Czechoslovakia under
Town and New Town. In 1850 the city Communist Regime to the present
underwent further expansion when time of a democratic Czech Republic.
the Hebrew district Josefov was con- The city is situated on both banks
structed and in 1883 Vyšehrad. of the River Vltava in central Bohe-
From 1939, when the country was mia. Prague is the Czech Republic‘s
occupied by the Nazis, and during capital and the cradle of Czech cul-
WWII, most Jews either fled the ture. Many famous writers, artists,
city or were killed in the Holocaust. athletes and sportspeople, models
The German population, which had and film directors were born here.
formed the minority of the city’s in-
habitants till the 19th century, was Brief Facts about Prague
expelled in the aftermath of the war. Prague (Praha in Czech) is the capital
Prague was under communist rule and largest city of the Czech Republic.
for over 40 years and seldom vis- It is home to nearly 1.3 million inhab-
ited by tourists until after the Velvet itants (94 % Czechs and 4 % Slovaks).
Revolution on 17 November 1989. The city is situated about 1377 km
From the moment freedom came to from London, 292  km from Vienna
the streets, the city started enjoying and 350 km from Berlin. The official
a huge economic boom, even more language is Czech but the people also
so after the Czech Republic joined speak English, German and Russian.
6
Trip Planning ficulty getting tickets from the box
office on the day of the performance.
Prague is busy almost year-round, ex- If you travel to Prague on a low-
cept in January and February, which cost airlines, it is probably the only
are probably the quietest months of part of your trip where earlier means
the year. Despite that fact, Prague isn’t cheaper, in terms of advance ticket
a city requiring a visitor to do extra booking.
planning or make advance bookings.
Most visitors book their accommo- Money and Costs
dation prior arrival to get the online Apart from hotel prices, city centre
rates, which is much cheaper than restaurants and other tourist attrac-
the normal hotel walk-in rates. But, tions, Prague is still quite cheap and
if for some reason you do not make considered a bargain destination
an advance booking, Prague still has compared to other western European
a lot of hotels and other facilities to countries. Though for luxury goods,
accommodate crowds of tourists and like electrical appliances, cosmetics
you will always find a place to stay. and fashion, prices are higher here
The recession has hit Prague’s hotel than elsewhere, resulting in the fact
sector hard creating a constant over- that many locals even go on shop-
supply of top-end hotel rooms caus- ping trips to neighbouring Germany
ing many places to drop their prices or Austria.
and offer last-minute deals in an at- An average tourist will spend
tempt to attract guests. around CZK 2500 per person per day,
For the modest and cheap restau- including accommodation, entry fees
rants, it is not necessary to make and transport costs. The lowest daily
a reservation, in the up-scale res- budget can be as low as CZK 900
taurants, it is recommended you
reserve a table one day in advance,
or even on the morning of the same
day. The exception might be during MONEY EXCHANGE ADVICE
New Year‘s Day, Valentine’s Day or Some exchange offices in
Easter, when one week in advance Prague charge commission
should be sufficient. of up to 10% and they will
If you wish to attend a particular advertise higher exchange
opera or classical music concert, we rates, hoping customers will
advise booking two or three weeks not realise there is a high com-
ahead to ensure seating. Outside of mission fee.
high season, you won’t have any dif-
 7
Introduction

if you stay at cheap hostels, eat take-


away food and use public transport.
However, if you stay in private ac- ADVICE FOR SAVING MONEY
commodation, eat at average restau- Always try to pay in local Czech
rants, visit some paid attractions and crowns when possible. Even
manage your budget, you can get by though euros are accepted at
on CZK 2500 a day. At the luxury end, businesses such as big stores
if you stay at top-end hotels, eat at and most tourist restaurants,
exclusive restaurants, do shopping the exchange rate is never
and use taxis, you could easily spend favourable.
CZK 10000 a day.
Do not expect Prague to be ex-
tremely cheap and keep in mind that fancier restaurants can cost around
only some products and services are CZK 2000 or at a midrange restaurant
much cheaper here. Beer, food in from CZK 900 to CZK 1200. Lunch in a
supermarkets and public transport pub costs about CZK 200 per person
remain relative bargains compared to and a special lunch menu in cheap
other European capitals. eatery costs around CZK 90 to CZK 120.
Attractive hotels in Prague’s city A cup of coffee in a city café is CZK 60,
centre range between CZK 3500 and but in Starbucks it is around CZK 100.
CZK 6000 for a double room, but ho- A beer in a pub outside the city cent-
tels in Prague’s suburbs can cost as er will cost around CZK 30 though in
little as CZK 700 for a single room. the heart of the city, this will cost up
Staying in a hostel dormitory room to CZK 80, soft drinks about CZK  35.
for one costs on average CZK 400, Cigarettes are still a bit cheaper than
but can be found for as low as CZK in other parts of the EU: a pack of
250 in the low season. Dinner for Marlboro cigarettes costs CZK 102.
two with some drinks at one of the In supermarkets, a 0.5l bottle of wa-
ter costs CZK 15, a loaf of bread from
APPROXIMATE EXCHANGE RATES CZK 25, a litre of milk CZK 20.
CZK CZK If you are planning to rent a car, a
litre of petrol will cost you around
EUR 1 = 25.20 CAD 1 = 16.30 CZK 30. Cinema tickets cost up to
GBP 1 = 28.60 DKK 1 = 3.35 CZK 200. A one-day public transport
USD 1 = 21.40 JPY 1 = 0.18 pass costs CZK 110, a taxi from the air-
CHF 1 = 21.40 NOK 1 = 2.55 port to the city centre is around CZK
650, and a taxi within the city centre
AUD 1 = 15.70 SEK 1 = 2.50 should cost around CZK 250.
8
Best Time to Visit Clothes & Packing
Prague has a continental climate, The weather in Prague can be
with hot summers and cold winters. changeable during the spring and
Probably the best time to visit Prague summer, so it is worth bringing some
is around May or September, when warm clothing and a waterproof
the weather is not too hot or cold jacket as well.
and the city is not overcrowded. When visiting Prague during the
It is not unusual during the sum- autumn or winter months, bring
mer for temperatures to reach as high a good selection of warm clothes.
as 35 °C (95 °F), and in the winter it But probably the most important
can be as cold as –15 °C (5 °F). The av- to take is a pair of comfortable
erage high temperature from May to shoes as you will be doing a lot
September is 22 °C (72 °F), with an av- of walking. Since many streets are
erage low of 12 °C (54 °F) and on aver- still cobblestone, it can be tough
age seven hours of sunshine per day. on your feet.
Spring and summer are likely to be
the sunniest months, while the pe- Advice for Saving Money
riod between May and August is the – Do not take cabs for inter-city
rainiest—sudden storms and showers travel. Use public transport or book
are common, therefore don’t forget our shuttle-bus from the airport
your umbrella. The amount of rainfall instead.
is fairly consistent throughout the – Do not exchange money at the air-
year, with just a tad more in spring port. Instead, obtain the local cur-
and autumn, and the very occasional rency using your ATM card.
summer thunderstorm. – Don’t forget that lots of local dishes
December is the time to visit are sufficiently big to share, and that
Xmas markets or at the end of year these can be complemented well
join the New Years’ crowds celebrat- with a traditional Czech beer.
ing in the streets. It is also a good – Always try to pay in local Czech
time for concert and opera lovers. crowns when possible.
Snow is rather rare in Prague but the – When you visit the theatre, request
best months to get a chance to see and reserve the least expensive
the city covered in a white blanket seats (normally about CZK 150).
are January and February. – Avoid the Italian restaurants and
If you’re planning to visit Prague the sushi in the city centre and buy
during the peak summer season, be Czech food. You will discover better
prepared for crowded restaurants value for money in the favourite local
and hotels, and a city full of tourists. restaurants.
 9
Introduction

Grand Hotel Evropa at Wenceslas Square is one of the oldest hotels in Prague, dat-
ing back to 1872. The building is an excellent example of Art Nouveau architecture
10
Accommodation times it is better to find accom-
modation further from the centre
Prague offers an extensive range because, compared to other world
of accommodation options, from cities, Prague is quite small and
romantic hotels based in historical its public transport is very effective.
town houses, to international chain
hotels, such as the Ibis, Hilton, Our Hotel Picks
Sheraton and Crown Plaza. There U ZLATÉ STUDNĚ*****
are also budget hostels, as well as Boutique hotel with parquet floors
smaller boutique hotels. Further- and antique furniture, which once
more, a new trend has emerged of was occupied by Emperor Rudolf II
renting a Prague apartment for a and is situated in a quiet part of the
short term period, which is particu- Lesser Town.
larly popular among bigger groups www.goldenwell.cz
who prefer more self-catering and
privacy. HOTEL JOSEF*****
Do not be surprised to discover Contemporary design hotel with
some hotels which date back to the chrome-and-glass rooms with white
Communist period, but which are touches, and chic, cool, all-white
all equipped with modern ameni- cocktail bar.
ties. Hotel prices are similar to the www.hoteljosef.com
rest of Europe and, generally, the
further you are from the centre, NH PRAHA****
the less expensive the hotels are. Comfortable rooms, with cable car to
Some hotels feature name pre- the on-site restaurant.
fixes, such as Lesser Town or Old www.nhprague.com
Town (for instance, Ibis Wenceslas
Square, Ibis Lesser Town, Hilton HOTEL POD VĚŽÍ****
Old Town). However, often these Located just a few steps from the fort
hotels are not actually situated in of Charles Bridge, and with friendly
these areas, and the name prefixes staff, this hotel in a fairy-tale setting
are just a marketing ploy. is also a TripAdvisor top choice.
If you are travelling around www.podvezi.com
Christmas, Easter and July or August
it is best to book well ahead. When DŮM U VELKÉ BOTY
looking for accommodation you Centrally located pension in the qui-
should check both the price and the et back-streets with antique décor.
distance from the city centre. Some- www.dumuvelkeboty.cz
 11
Introduction

Safety Dishonest Taxi Drivers


Sadly, Prague still has some of the
Prague is a comparatively safe city, worst taxi drivers in the world when
violent crimes very seldom happen, it comes to overcharging. It‘s a
and while the crime rate is still low, standard warning that taxi drivers in
common safety precautions should Prague are famous for trying to rip
be taken as petty crime is on the in- off both tourists and locals. Never
crease in the central areas of Prague. take a taxi off the street, especially
Do not leave valuables, including taxis parked in front of railway sta-
your passport, unattended in ho- tions or tourist areas close to the
tel rooms. Instead, use hotel safes Wenceslas Square, Old Town Square,
or better yet, leave your expensive etc. From the airport or train station,
items at home and just take your pre-book a safe taxi in advance with
passport. The biggest danger for www.Prague-Airport-Transfers.co.uk.
tourists is definitely pick-pocketing.
This is most common where large
groups gather, i. e. on crowded trams
or at busy tourist spots. When trav-
elling, keep a photocopy of your Travelling on the public
passport and credit card informa- transport system can save
tion on you. This way if you lose you not only time but mainly
these items or have them stolen, money. That is, however,
you will be able to get replacement only in the case that you are
travel documents and access to your travelling with the correctly
money. According to Czech law you stamped travel documents.
have to have proof of identification After boarding your means of
with you at all times, but in reality, transport, it is necessary to
the police very rarely ask people for get your ticket stamped. Only
identification. If arriving by car don’t in this way is the ticket valid
keep luggage and valuables visible and you will not run the risk
in your car. of a war of words with a ticket
inspector. Transport inspectors
Watch out for Pickpockets like to check foreign tourists
Pickpockets in Prague are very skilful. precisely because on many
They usually act in a group and tar- occasions they are not aware
get trams, metros and other crowded that their ticket must be
places. Be particularly careful on punched.
tram no. 22.
12
Scams in Prague Restaurants
Even though the current situation is LEGAL MATTERS
much better compared to ten years Alcohol: The legal drinking age
ago, you should still be aware of this is 18 years.
and always check your bill carefully. Drugs: The law in the Czech Re-
The most common scam is charg- public forbids possessing more
ing for additional extras like sauces, than a small amount of drugs.
bread, rolls or pretzels on the table. Driving: There is zero blood
Usually the menu will state that the alcohol tolerance.
price excludes charges for bread, Tourist Police Station: Jung-
but the notice will be printed some- manovo nám. 9 or Vlašská 3
where where it is hard to see. The (open 24 hours and have English-
simple solution is if you do not want speaking officers).
to pay for those items, then ask the
wait staff to take them away. Even if
you do not eat it, but it is on the ta-
ble, you are obliged to pay. In pubs EMERGENCY NUMBERS
if you do not get an itemised bill, do 112: General emergency num-
a quick rough calculation and if in ber similar to 999 in the UK.
doubt, ask your wait staff for a de- Operators speak English and
tailed bill. If you pay a large bill for German. This can be used for any
a group of people, it is pretty easy emergency situation (police, fire
to squeeze in a few extra crowns on brigade, or emergency medical
your bill or they may make a wrong assistance, road accident report).
calculation. By Czech law, the bill 150: Fire brigade
always includes a service charge, 155: Medical emergency (ambu-
but does not include optional tips. lance/first aid)
Some establishments might try to 156: Prague City police
persuade customers to leave an ad- 158: Police
ditional 10%, although you do not
have to unless the service was ex-
cellent. it is heavily chlorinated so it can
have a metallic taste. If you need
Health drugs for a medical condition, go to
There is no health threat when trav- a pharmacy, the only places that sell
elling to Prague. The water supply in over-the-counter medicines. They
Prague is good. It is considered very also dispense many drugs normally
safe to drink water from the tap, but available only on prescription.
 13
Activities

The changing of the guard at Prague Castle


Activities

P rague is bursting at the seams with things to


do. Whether you choose the city‘s rich musical
heritage, opera or jazz, night clubbing, or simply
enjoy a pint of Pilsner in one of its legendary beer
cellars, this is the city where there really is some-
thing for everyone.

Most visitors simply enjoy relaxed opt for a ride in a vintage car – open-
strolling while discovering magnifi- top, weather permitting – or a hop-
cent views, historic buildings, religious on-hop-off sightseeing bus, or do a
icons and galleries. For those who do Segway tour. Most tours start either
not wish to get lost in the city’s maze from Old Town Square or from Na
of small cobblestoned streets and Příkopě near Republic Square.
lanes, there are plenty of walking tours Riverboats are another option for
to choose from. Some tours cover the seeing the city from a different angle
general history and orientation of the – there are choices of a lunch cruise,
city, while others focus on specific a quick one-hour cruise, an evening
themes. But if you would rather get cruise with dinner, or a cruise with a
a good orientation of the city with an live jazz band.
introduction to most of the important Shoppers won’t be left behind ei-
city landmarks, your best choice is to ther. For those looking for small gifts
join our free four-hour walking tour. to bring back home, there are many
If the idea of walking does not ap- souvenir stands around Old Town
peal to you, you can always blend Square, Karlova and Charles Bridge.
culture with comfort by taking a For luxury brands like Louis Vuit-
ride through Prague instead. Horse- ton, Hermès or Cartier, head to the
drawn carriages carry you at a gen- Pařížská or visit Prague High Street
tle pace through the cobblestoned Na Příkopě where you can find all the
streets of the Old Town. Or you can trendy fashion shops.
 15
Activities

Suggested Itineraries
Prague in One Day
If you have only one day to explore
Prague, then concentrate on the Cas-
tle District and Lesser Town, ending
your walk in the heart of Old Town.
Once you get to the Prague Castle
complex, visit the Gothic St. Vitus
Cathedral and St. George‘s Basilica,
and stop at the small picturesque
houses in Golden Lane. Then, de-
scend into Lesser Town where you‘ll
find the ancient burgher houses
and the Baroque copper-domed St.
Nicholas’ Church. Making your way
across Charles Bridge can take as lit-
tle or as much time as you like, if you
enjoy souvenir stands, performers,
artists, musicians, or just beautiful Powder Tower (Prašná brána)
city views, you may want to linger a
while longer. After the rest, continue walking to
If you want to feel even more of the Old Town Square to see the Astro-
romantic atmosphere of the city, you nomical Clock and watch ‘The Walk of
might wish to jump on the Venice Boat the Apostles‘ performing on the hour.
Cruise. During this short 40-minute From there continue your walk to-
boat cruise you will have a chance to wards Celetná Street where you can
see Prague‘s architectural gems from see quite a few architecturally and
the River Vltava. The boat departure historically important houses, such
pier is just under Charles Bridge, ac- as at the Three Kings, the White Lion,
cessible from Čertovka, Kampa Island. the Black Sun and the Black Ma-
Once across the bridge, walk along donna.
the riverside and take a break at the The most interesting one worth
famous Café Slavia, on Smetanovo a visit is the House of the Black
Embankment, where you can have a Madonna, which dates back to 1912.
coffee while enjoying the view across A multifunctional building, it houses
the river and up to the castle on the shops on the ground floor and the
other side. legendary Orient coffee bar with its
16
cubist furniture on the higher lev-
els. Celetná Street will lead you to
the Powder Tower. Next to the tower
is the Municipal House – Prague‘s
most prominent Art Nouveau build-
ing, built between 1906 and 1912.
This is a popular attraction for visi-
tors, who are lured in by the build-
ing‘s gold trimmings, stained glass,
sculptures, and the regular exhibi-
tions and concerts.

Prague in Two Days


On the first day walk to Old Town
Square, view the ‘must see’ Astro-
nomical Clock and visit the beauti-
ful Gothic Church of Our Lady Before
Týn or the baroque St. Nicholas’
Church. From there, head to Charles
Bridge via Karlova Street to take Devil‘s Stream (Čertovka)
some beautiful photos. Next head to
Nerudova Street and climb up to the the castle from the other side. Once
imposing Prague Castle, where St. Vi- you have explored the castle com-
tus Cathedral, Golden Lane and the plex make your way back downhill
Royal Garden await. If you are tired to Malostranské Square where you
of walking, you might like to take can have a traditional Czech meal
tram no. 22 up the hill and approach at one of the numerous pubs and
restaurants or just a less traditional
Starbucks coffee.
The second day is good for ‘laid
back’ exploring or a leisurely walk
along the river and around Old Town.
From Old Town Square, walk to the
Jewish Quarter of Josefov and visit
the Jewish Museum sites. For your
lunch avoid Old Town Square and
instead discover some eateries down
Golden Lane (Prague Castle) the tiny side streets.
 17
Activities

• visit some of the National Gallery


exhibitions located at different sites
around Prague, highly recommended
is St. Agnes Gallery nearby the Jewish
Quarter where you can see a perma-
nent exhibition of Medieval and early
Renaissance art
In the afternoon, have lunch in
one of Lesser Town’s restaurants and
Vrtba Garden – situated on the slope of then take the funicular railway up to
Petřín Hill Petřín Hill. It is an excellent place

In the afternoon, do some shop-


ping or just wander around Wenc-
eslas Square. Later continue via Na
Příkopě to the Art Nouveau gem of
Municipal House. Stopping there ei-
ther for a short tour of the building
interiors or simply a coffee is well
worth it. If you are still up for more
shopping, continue to the modern
Palladium Shopping Centre, situated
just a few minutes’ walk away on
Republic Square. And finally in the
evening you could have a few pints
of world famous Czech beer at some
local pubs to relax after your busy
day of walking, or if you are into clas-
sical music, attend a concert at the The Petřín Funicular
Rudolfinum.
for a relaxing walk in the peaceful
Prague in Three Days gardens with great views over the
For the first two days, follow our two- city – and for even more spectacu-
day itinerary. And on your last day in lar views, don‘t forget to visit Petřín
the morning, either: Observation Tower. If you are ener-
• take a half-day trip to the medi- getic enough, continue walking from
eval town of Kutná Hora or tour the Petřín Hill to Pohořelec (Hradčany)
Terezín holocaust memorial and visit Strahov Monastery.
18
Baroque Chateau in Trója

From there you can take the scenic Krumlov or to the Pilsner Brewery.
tram number 22 back to the city. If you are still thinking of how to
In the evening you could visit some fill one of your afternoons, visit the
of the nice jazz clubs in Lesser Town, pretty green grounds of Vyšehrad or
like U Malého Glena. If jazz is not to Trója Chateau.
your liking, do the night Dinner on The Prague Zoo with more than
The River Cruise, passing famous 4100 animals is also good choice for
sights – all the while enjoying din- sunny afternoon.
ner and live music on board. Alter-
natively New Town is full of nightlife
options to suit every taste.

Prague in One Week


One week will give you more time to
soak up the city atmosphere. Cover
the sights mentioned in the three-
day itinerary and then add in visits
to numerous museums and galleries,
plus a day trip to Kutná Hora, Český Konopiště Chateau
 19
Activities

Popular Activities Theatre hosted the premiere of Mo-


zart‘s Don Giovanni in 1787 and this
During the summer months take a opera can still be seen here today
tram trip on Prague’s historic tram or alternately performed by puppets
41, which can be great fun too. The at the National Marionette Theatre.
National Theatre, Lesser Town Square Even if you’re not a classical music
and Wenceslas Square are all board- enthusiastic, slip in through the side
ing points. Alternatively board tram door into one of Prague‘s hidden
22 from the National Theatre stop churches and cloisters, which are
and take ride up to Prague Castle, often used for musical concerts, and
passing through Lesser Town and therefore rehearsals. Once inside
past other sights. pay your respects and if possible,
Other popular activity is to attend stay for the angelic acoustics.
a performance at the Estates Thea- On the River Vltava, you can get
tre or see the puppets at the Nation- an interesting new perspective and
al Marionette Theatre. The Estates have family fun by renting a rowing

Prague Little Venice Cruise


20
Historic tram no. 41

boat. You will find boat rentals open They have a good range of shops
every day from April to the end of like Marks & Spencer, Marlboro Clas-
October, under Charles Bridge, di- sics, Kookai, Calvin Klein and Next, to
rectly across from Club Lávka, or on name but a few.
Slovanský Island.
A must for every traveller to The Best Place for a View
Prague is a visit to some of tradi- over the City
tional Czech pubs where guests sit Prague is a city of red rooftops, tow-
at plain wooden tables and wait to ers, and golden spires, of wooded hills
be served glasses of the frothy Pils- and amazing views. Every visitor who
ner Urquell lager. For more adven- climbs the steps to the castle is re-
turous types, also try the popular warded with a great view over the city.
local spirit Becherovka. But if you want to escape the crowds,
Visit some of the numerous shopping there are other lofty vantage points,
centres in the city centre. Palladium including Vyšehrad, Petřín Hill Tower,
and Myslbek are probably the most Letná Park, Žižkov TV tower, Old Town
lavish and well-stocked in Prague. Hall Tower and St. Henry‘s Tower.
 21
Activities

Activities for Families


with Children
There are many places which al-
low children with parents to enjoy
Prague at its best. One of the most
popular choices for family fun is defi-
nitely Troja Zoo (second best zoo in
Europe, according to TripAdvisor) or
Sea World in Výstaviště with giant
fish tanks. For couples and children
alike one tip is to take the funicular
railway up Petřín Hill and then visit
the Hall of Mirrors.

Puppet Show
The Don Giovanni Marionette Opera
can be seen at National Marionette National Technical Museum
Theatre in Žatecká 1, Josefov. Tall
marionettes as well as the stylish doubt, the most impressive displays
period costumes and original stage are found in the large Transport
effects can be seen during this two- Hall, crammed full of vintage trains,
hour (8pm—10pm) performance. It planes and automobiles. Among the
is presented in the original Italian many exhibits here are examples
librette. of Czech engineering at its best –
Škoda for example was one of the
Výstaviště Exhibition Grounds foremost engineering companies in
The expansive Exhibition Grounds in- Europe before WWII. Additionally,
clude a traditional funfair, Sea world there is a large display of film and
aquarium, a swimming pool and a photographic equipment, while the
planetarium, which presents several mining technology exhibit recreates
shows daily. the workings of a coal mine in the
museum‘s basement.
National Technical Museum Kostelní 42, Prague 7, Holešovice
If you are put off by the rather un- 9am—5:30pm Tue—Fri
inspiring name, then don‘t be, as a 10am—6pm Sat&Sun
visit to Prague‘s Technical Museum Adult/child CZK 190/90
is a rewarding experience. Without www.ntm.cz
22
Pedalos more pleasant, a popular series of
The River Vltava is the perfect place commentated feedings and training
to spend an hour or two on a pedalo exercises are prepared for the week-
with the kids. If the weather is nice ends, along with many other inter-
you will have a great time, pedaling esting programmes. There is also a
under the bridges and exploring the small chair lift that will, no doubt, be
river. You can rent pedalos at Charles entertaining for children.
Bridge, Mánesův Bridge and Slovan- How to get there: take bus no.
ský Island. 112 from the Nádraží Holešovice
underground station and get off at
Toy Museum Zoologická zahrada, the last stop. In
This cute little place is full of antique the summer months, Prague Steam-
trains, teddy bears and dolls, com- boat Company operates a boat
plete with English-language signs on which serves the zoological garden.
most of them. Although there are not Boats sail hourly every day from
many things children are allowed to Na Františku quay.
touch, there are plenty of mysterious U Trojského zámku 3/120, Trója
mechanical objects, such as musical Daily 9am—7pm in summer
boxes and steam-powered toys, for and until 4pm in winter months
the kids to speculate about. There is www.zoopraha.cz
a Barbie exhibit on the second floor,
which is rather interesting. Aquapalace
Clam-Gallas Palace, Husova 20 Touted as ‘the largest water park in
Daily 10:00am—6pm central Europe’, the facility features
Adult/child/family CZK 70/50/200 saunas, a spa complex, and a fitness
centre, along with a variety of pools
Prague Zoo and nine water slides. It’s an attrac-
For nature and animals lovers tive destination for families looking
Prague Zoo is the perfect place to for some summer fun.
visit. The zoo is open all year round Bus from Prague-Opatov
and is located in the picturesque to Čestlice; distance:
environment of the Troja Basin. Its 8 km south of Prague
diverse terrain makes it possible www.aquapalace.cz
to walk through both shady groves
and open, grassy plains. There is an Railways Toy Museum
ever-growing number of enclosures Stroupežnického 23, Prague 5
that blend with the natural land- Daily 9am—7pm
scape. To make your trip to the zoo www.railroad-kingdom.com
 23
Activities

Christmas Markets at Old Town Square


24
Public Holidays arrival of Christianity in this country
and the first Slavic alphabet, Cyrillic
Saturdays, Sundays and public holi- (in the year 863).
days mean most banks and offices
will be closed. Ordinary shops also Jan Hus Day (July 6)
close on Sundays and public holi- The day marking the burning of Jan
days, while supermarkets and shop- Hus at the stake (July 6, 1415). Jan Hus
ping malls often stay open. Public was a reforming religious leader and
transport does not run as often on the rector of Prague University.
these days as on weekdays.
Day of Czech Statehood
Czech Independence Day (September 28)
and New Year (January 1) The day Czech Prince Wenceslas was
A day to mark the creation of an in- murdered in the year 935 by his own
dependent Czech Republic following brother. Not long after his death he
the division of Czechoslovakia on was declared a saint. On this day the
January 1, 1993. Czechs celebrate their patron saint
and symbol of Czech statehood.
Easter Monday & Good Friday
(March/April) Czechoslovak Independence Day
Easter Monday is a religious holi- (October 28)
day associated with a pagan ritual A public holiday to mark the day
in which Czech boys beat girls with Czechs and Slovaks established their
willow sticks. own state in 1918 – the most impor-
tant national holiday of the year.
Labour Day (May 1)
Romantics lay flowers in front of the Freedom and Democracy Day
statue of Hynech Mácha on Petřín Hill. (November 17)
The day Czechs remember the student
Liberation Day (May 8) struggles of 1939 and 1989 against the
The day commemorates the libera- Nazi and communist regimes.
tion of Czechoslovakia by the Allies
in May 1945. Christmas (December 24, 25 and 26)
Christmas Eve is the most festive day
Day of the Slavic Apostles Cyril and of Christmas in the Czech Republic,
Methodius (July 5) followed by Christmas Day and the
The missionaries Cyril and Metho- 2nd Day of Christmas. Many tourist
dius are closely associated with the attractions and shops are closed.
 25
Activities

Annual Events and is held on 10 and 11th May, but you


and Festivals can go for the shorter option, which is
the Hervis Prague Half Marathon held
Big celebrations in Prague start with on 5th April. This is just 21km (with a
the popular Prague Spring Music three-hour limit). For the marathon
Festival. Summer is dominated with run you have to pay a registration fee,
street festivals and performances ranging from CZK 500 to 1900.
held in the castle gardens. In the www.runczech.com
coldest months from December, the
ball season stars, with most events Prague Spring International
held indoors. Music Festival
Date: 12th May-3rd June. This is a fa-
St. Matthew‘s Fair mous series of classical music and
During February and March. St. Mat- dance performances in churches,
thew‘s Fair (Matějská pouť) marks palaces and concert halls, draw-
the arrival of warm weather and ing thousands of visitors every year.
features fairground rides for children Enjoy first-class symphonies, operas
at Prague‘s exhibition grounds at and chamber music from talented
Výstaviště. artists. The celebrations begin with
a procession from Smetana‘s grave
Witches‘ Night in Vyšehrad to his namesake con-
Date: 30 April. This festival marks the cert hall in Municipal House. Tickets
end of winter and the new birth of can be obtained through the official
spring. Bonfires are lit to purge the Prague Spring Box Office in the Ru-
winter spirits. These festivals are most- dolfinum, or from any branch of Tick-
ly found in the countryside but can be etpro.
seen at Kampa in Prague as well.
Czech Beer Festival
Prague International Marathon It is the largest gastronomic event in
Date: April to May. The route runs the Czech Republic calls attention to
throughout the city, starting and fin- the wondrous varieties of Czech Beer
ishing in the historical centre, right in late May.
next to the famous Jewish Quarter. www.ceskypivnifestival.cz
Join the other runners from all around
the world and after the run ends be Prague Food Festival
prepared for a great street party. The Date: late May. 3 days of the best gas-
whole Volkswagen Prague Marathon tronomy.
is 42km long (with a seven-hour limit) www.praguefoodfestival.cz
26
United Islands of Prague Velvet Revolution Anniversary
There are various venues across the 17th November is a day which changed
city throughout June. Expect beers the lives of all Czechs. A commemora-
stands and concerts on the Vltava tion and wreath laying ceremony is
river front. conducted on Wenceslas Square.
www.unitedislands.cz
St. Nicholas‘ Eve
Dance Prague Date: 5 December. People wander
In June you should not miss the around the streets in groups of three
international festival of contempo- dressed as St. Nicholas, an angel and
rary dance and movement theatre – a devil, symbolising confession, reward
Tanec Praha. This festival is now one and punishment. On this day grown
of the most successful in Prague. men stick to the hobby of beer drinking.
www.tanecpraha.cz
Christmas Market
Opera - The Festival of Music on Old Town Square
Theatre During December a giant Christ-
In mid September come to see this mas tree lights up the centre of the
festival featuring mainly Italian ope- square, while the space around it is
ras on stages of the National Theatre. crammed with market stalls selling
The festival provides a chance to see carved wooden toys, ceramics, glass
very good productions outside the figurines, Christmas gifts, delicious
main opera season. gingerbread cakes, barbecued sau-
www.festival-opera.cz sages and mulled wine. Entertain-
ment is provided by street perform-
International Jazz Festival ers. Even if you are not there to do
This commences in the last week of shopping you can enjoy watching
October (this festival has a tradi- the street performers and indulge
tion of more than 30 years). If you yourself in the Christmas atmos-
like jazz, you should definitely not phere.
miss this festival, especially as you
can see performances by jazz leg- New Year’s Eve
ends from all around the world, with On 31 December head for spectacu-
plenty of local stars in between. The lar fireworks and a mellower pace at
festival is held in several venues Prague Castle or Vyšehrad. For great
across Prague but mostly at Lucerna festivities go to Old Town Square
Music Bar. where live big screening and other
http://jazzfestivalpraha.com performances are held.
 27
Transportation

Modern tram near Jindřišská Tower


Transportation

P rague is a simple city to get around, especially in


the centre, which is relatively small and compact.
Most tourist attractions and sights are in convenient
locations within the city and are best reached on
foot or by using the metro or trams. Prague‘s public
transport system is very well developed, efficient
and accessible, and very popular with tourists.

Compared to other EU countries, lic transport services are very limited


public transport in Prague is quite and operate at long intervals.
cheap. For more information about Be careful when crossing the roads
public transport, go to www.dpp.cz at pelican crossings, as some drivers
or visit the information desks lo- tend to ignore crossings without traffic
cated at the airport and at selected lights. Also, trams travel quite fast and
metro stations: Muzeum (lines A and may come upon you with little warning.
C), Můstek (lines A and B), Anděl (line Take taxis only when you need
B), Nadraží Holešovice (line C), Černý door-to-door service, like from the
Most (line B). There you can buy tick- airport or train station, and only with
ets and travel passes, and get useful a reputable company. Due to the fre-
multi-lingual guides and maps to quent problems of overcharging and
the whole transport system. Bus and heavy traffic, it is not recommended
tram timetables are posted at every to use taxis for short trips in the city
station and stop, so you know what centre. The same advice applies if
time to expect their arrival. you plan on driving in Prague, which
During the peak times, generally can be horrendous for the uniniti-
from 7am-10am and 3pm-6pm, ex- ated because local drivers have a
pect some crowding. Also keep in bad reputation for their aggressive
mind that during the night time, pub- driving style.
 29
Transportation

Prague Public Transport centre. There are also other buses


(100, 254 and 179) but the 119 is the
Prague Airport most convenient.
Václav Havel Prague Airport is lo- Just outside the terminal buildings
cated 17km from the city centre and you can get white metered taxis. The
has all the modern amenities you price to the city should be around
would expect of a European airport. CZK 650, depending on the exact dis-
The journey from the airport to the tance and traffic. Due to the common
city centre takes around 25 – 30 min- taxi overcharging phenomenon, we
utes by taxi, or around 50 minutes by recommend using our cheap airport
public transport. shuttle or private taxi transfer with
UK and other non-Schengen-zone fixed prices. Simply pre-book online
flights arrive and depart from Termi- and travel with peace of mind.
nal 1, and flights from Schengen-zone
countries from Terminal 2 (without Prague Metro
passport control). The metro is formed by three lines: A,
In the arrivals area you will find the B, and C. The metro lines are colour-
Prague Tourist Information desk and coded and the operates from 5am
other kiosks where you can arrange a to midnight. The green line (line A)
rental car, exchange money, buy pub- connects Depot Hostivař and Motol.
lic transport tickets or book a hotel. The yellow line (line B) connects
There is also a post office and a left Černý Most and Zličín and the red
luggage office. line (line C) connects Letňany and
When you are leaving Prague, you Háje. There are three line-crossing
may want to eat before you head to stations: Muzeum (lines A and C),
the airport, as most restaurants at the Můstek (lines B and A) and Florenc
airport are generally overpriced, but a (lines C and B). The time intervals are
few cheap fast food chains like Burger approximately two to three minutes
King, Subway and Billa supermarket at rush hour and four to ten minutes
can be found in the public areas at during off-peak times.
arrivals, between Terminal 1 and Ter- Line A (green) connecting the main
minal 2. areas of the city centre is most useful
for visitors. To get to Prague Castle,
Getting to The City get off either at Hradčanská or Ma-
If you do not have a lot of luggage, lostranská station. If heading to the
take bus no. 119 from the airport to Old Town, get off at Staroměstská,
Veleslavín Metro station. From there, and for Wenceslas Square, stop at
take the main A-line into the city Můstek.
30
Prague Trams HISTORIC TRAM 41
Trams are a convenient way of get- Nostalgic tram 41 runs at weekends
ting around and compared to the and holidays from the end of March
metro, you will have the chance to through to mid-November. The tram
see much more. The tram routes leaves from Střešovice every hour
are well structured and organised from 12 noon till 6pm and continues
covering a large area of the city. through the city centre. Tickets cost
Daytime trams run from 4:30am till CZK 35 for adults, CZK 20 for children
midnight at eight-to-ten-minute and seniors over 70 years old.
intervals (8 to 15 minutes at week-
ends). Night trams (numbers 51-58) City Buses
run from 12:30am until 4:30am in Buses mostly cover the outskirts of
30-to-40-minute intervals. The cen- Prague, especially areas not covered
tral interchange tram stop of night by the tram system. Daytime buses
trams is Lazarská stop. Note that it is run from 4.30am till midnight in
the custom for young and fit to give six-to-eight-minute intervals during
up their seats to passengers who peak hours, 10-to-20 minute intervals
need them more. during off-peak times, and 15-to-
30-minute intervals at weekends.
TRAM 22 Night buses (numbers 501-512) run
Follow one of Prague‘s most scenic from 12:30am till 4:30am in 40-min-
routes, passing by the National Thea- ute intervals.
tre to Malostranská metro station,
and continuing up to the Belvedér,
Prague Castle and Pohořelec, with
some stunning views on the way. WALKING
Probably the best and most
TRAM 9 enjoyable way to see the city is
This useful tram route runs across by walking. The only downside
the city through Wenceslas Square, is the uneven cobbled streets
continues on to Lesser Town, then to which are often find around the
Anděl (in Smíchov) and further. city centre, and one must have
good and comfortable shoes.
ROUTE 17 Be careful on any crossings
This route follows the river bank from and keep in mind that trams
Vyšehrad, passing New Town (Nation- do have priority at pedestrian
al Theatre), Old Town (Staroměstská), crossings.
and Jewish Town to the Letná Park.
 31
Transportation

Map – Metro, Trams and Trains of Prague Integrated Transport


When a tram pulls up to a stop, two different names are announced: the name of the stop you are
currently at, and then the name of the stop that‘s coming up next. Confused visitors, wondering
whether they‘ve heard their stop, are notorious for hurrying off the tram one stop too early.

Prague
Castle

Old
Sq Tow
ua n
re
Charles
Bridge

When using public transport you FR Funicular FR


railway

are expected to give up your seat


for the elderly and disabled.

32
 33
Transportation

Taxis ticket. A few may demand a higher


Taxi services in Prague might be tricky, fine from foreigners and pocket the
especially if you hail a taxi off the difference, so insist on a receipt be-
street, so it is good idea negotiate your fore paying.
fare in advance or get an estimate. If Public transport tickets can be
you are going to or from the airport, used on any type of public trans-
train or bus station pre-book a taxi with port, and allow transfers between
Prague Airport Transfers. Maximum offi- lines (metro to metro, tram to tram,
cial prices: CZK/km 28, CZK 6 waiting fee etc.) and types of transport (metro
per minute, boarding fee CZK 40. to tram, tram to bus, etc.) for up
to 30 minutes from validation for
Public Transport Fares short-ride tickets, and up to 90 min-
The Prague public transport system utes for long-ride tickets. Tickets are
uses two types of tickets – 30-min- also valid on night trams and buses
ute and 90-minute tickets and travel and on the Petřín funicular railway.
passes. Passengers have to obtain
their tickets before boarding a tram 30-MINUTE TICKET (SHORT RIDES)
or bus, or entering the metro. It is Adults: CZK 24
possible to get a ticket directly from
the bus driver, but you will have to Children 6-15 years: CZK 12
pay an extra charge.
90-MINUTE TICKET (LONG RIDES)
Tickets can be bought from ticket
machines (which give instructions Adults: CZK 32
in English and supply change) at all
metro stations and newsagents. A Children 6-15 years: CZK 16
ticket must be validated (punched)
FREE TRANSPORT
at the entrance to the metro sta-
tion and on the tram/bus to mark Children under 6 years
the start of the validation period.
Plain-clothed inspectors frequently Seniors 70 years and over
check tickets and will issue an on-
the-spot fine of CZK 800 to anyone For children aged 10 years and
caught without a valid ticket or pass, over, you are required to carry proof
controllers should show you their ID of the child‘s age, with an identifi-
(a small metal disc) and give you a cation card containing the child’s
receipt. Tourists are well known tar- name, surname, date of birth and
gets, as many tourists do not know photograph verified by the passport
the fact that they have to validate a issuer.
34
Prague Metro

SHORT-TERM PASSES (UNLIMITED was fully renovated and modern-


TRAVEL WITHIN TICKET VALIDITY) ised by the Italian Grandi Stazioni
24-hour pass: CZK 110 company to western standards
from its former ‘dirty’ image of a
3-day pass (72 hrs): CZK 310 shadowy part of Prague. The sta-
tion serves international trains from
Most visitors find travel passes all countries, in particular trains
hassle free. If you will use public on the east-west route stop here
transport more than a few times a (trains from Vienna and Munich,
day, definitely go for one. etc.). It is the largest railway station
in Prague and has been operating
Main Train Station here since 1871. Getting to the sta-
Prague’s main train station is lo- tion is easy, the station is on the
cated in the city centre on Wilsonova metro (line C), and is just one stop
near Wenceslas Square. The station from the top of Wenceslas Square.
 35
Transportation

It is not recommended to take any of city centre by metro line B in about


those taxi cabs hanging around the 5 minutes.
train station, as you will very likely If you are travelling outside of
be charged an inflated fare. Prague, a bus might be quite a good
There are fast food restaurants, option, as they are usually cheaper
coffee shops, bookshops, currency than travelling by train. Most ser-
exchange offices (might charge com- vices are operated by ČSAD and Stu-
mission of up to 10%), cashpoints, dent Agency.
luggage storage services (provided You can buy your tickets in ad-
by coin-operated lockers), and a vance, although most operators also
guarded luggage depository. allow you to purchase directly from
the driver.
Reservation and Tickets
It is possible to purchase tickets on- Vintage Car Tours
line at the Czech Railways website Do you want to feel as if you are in
(www.cd.cz) 60 days prior to travel for the 1920s? In Prague, nothing is easi-
destinations within the Czech Repub- er. For about CZK 1200 you can hire an
lic and for selected destinations in antique car that best suits your taste
the EU. You can also buy them from and go on a trip around the histori-
any train station in Prague or else- cal centre of the city. The inter-war
where in the Czech Republic. dream might be blown away by the
At Prague’s main train station, the seemingly never-ending queues at
ticket counters are on the basement the traffic lights, but if you can let
level. Most locals do not make ad- yourself ignore the mass of tourists
vanced reservations, and tickets are around, you just might have a great
generally available to all destinations time. This exquisite car rental can
right up until the day of travel. If you be found close to Old Town Square,
are in a hurry, it is also possible to on the Royal Route to Prague Castle.
buy a ticket from the conductor, but Most tours depart as you come, or for
be prepared for an extra charge. whenever you arrange it. Trips last
from 30 minutes up to one hour.
Main Bus Station
Most international connections ter- Horse and Carriage Trips
minate in Prague at Florenc station, Romantic horse-drawn carriages can
located on the metro (lines B and C). be seen in the historical centre of
The main bus station serves all inter- Prague all year round. For about CZK
national and long distance domestic 800 per carriage, which can take up to
routes. From here, you can get to the four people, you can go for a 40 min-
36
Vintage Tour in Lesser Town

utes ride around the most beautiful ting out. No prior experience is
streets of the Old Town. You will find required.
the carriages waiting for you in Old www.prague-segway-tours.com
Town Square, next to the Old Town www.pragueonsegway.com
Hall and the Astronomical Clock.
Cycling
Segways Tours Prague is home to a massive network
Due to the recent Segway ban in of cycling trails, but most are at the
the city centre, all those tours will city outskirts. Most visitors prefer
only bring you to the lesser-known taking a tour first for orientation
of Prague’s attractions, which are before venturing further afield. It is
located further from the city cen- easy to rent a bike from Praha Bike
tre, even though they are still great (www.prahabike.cz) or you might
fun. For everyone’s safety, Segway even rent an electric one (www.
tours are properly guided and in- praguebyebike.com). Most rental
volve some training before set- shops do tours as well.
 37
Transportation Best Deals

Private Intercity Transfers


We offer transfers to/from any city or town in the Czech Republic
and neighboring countries. The rates we offer are likely to be much
cheaper than when using a normal taxi, or for larger groups, similar
to train ticket prices. However, unlike travelling by train or bus, with
us you can break the journey with a few hours‘ visit to an interest-
ing place en route. There will be just a small waiting charge.

Prague to Budapest
Transfers from Prague to Budapest
can be combined with a recommend-
ed visit to Vienna or Bratislava, which
lie on the way. You can choose either
to travel via Vienna or Bratislava, and
stop there for a short visit to the city
or just a lunch etc.
From CZK 1477 per person

Prague to Vienna
If you wish to make your journey
from Vienna to Prague more interest-
ing, why not stop on the way in Český
Krumlov. Travel time will be about
1.5 hours longer than the direct route
and an extra 100km will be travelled,
but it is definitely worth it.
From CZK 931 per person

Prague to Salzburg
The beautiful city of Český Krumlov
is a great place for a short stop on
the way from or to Salzburg. We rec-
ommend at least two hours, or if you
wish to tour the city or just stop for
lunch, allow at least one hour.
From CZK 1058 per person
38
Prague to Berlin
On the way to / from Berlin you might
choose to stop in Dresden („Florence
on the Elbe“) for a short visit to this
beautiful city, perhaps having lunch
and visiting Zwinger Palace and the
Church of Our Lady.
From CZK 1002 CZK per person

Prague to Krakow
Stop en route for a few hours for a
visit to Auschwitz (German Nazi Con-
centration and Extermination Camp)
and continue your journey to Krakow.
Allow at least two hours for your visit.
From CZK 1519 per person

Prague to Nuremberg
Make a short stop at Plzen (Pilsen)
on the way from or to Nuremberg. We
recommend at least two hours for
the Plzen brewery tour, or one hour if
you wish just to stop in the city.
From CZK 819 per person

Prague to Passau
Český Krumlov and České Budějovice
are worth considering for a short
stop on the way from or to Passau. If
you decide to visit either or both of
those cities, we recommend at least
two hours for Český Krumlov and one
hour for České Budějovice, or possi-
bly one hour in Hluboká castle.
From CZK 616 per person

Book online at www.prague-airport-transfers.co.uk


 39
Transportation Best Deals

WAITING FEE CHARGE If you travel by train or bus you will


If you require waiting or a multi-stop also have to add costs for getting to
transfer, for example you go to one and from the station at both desti-
city where we wait for you and then nations, whereas our transfers are
you continue on to somewhere else, door-to-door and all-inclusive.
we will add a waiting charge to your
fare. Our waiting charges are as fol- Can we stop for a quick lunch or
lows: 1–4 people: CZK 220 per hour; break along the way? Yes, we are
5–8 people: CZK 280 per hour. quite happy to stop along the way
at no extra charge. If you require a
FREE MINIVAN UPGRADE longer stop—over 15 minutes—we
With us, we will accommodate groups might charge a waiting fee.
of up to four passengers and your
luggage in a bigger vehicle for no What is the fastest means of travel be-
extra charge. When booking simply tween Prague and other destinations?
request “Minivan free upgrade”. Except for flying (where you must add
time for getting to/from the airport and
FAQ checking-in time) our private transfers
What are the advantages of using are the quickest way of getting around.
your transfers compared to travel-
ling by train or bus? Our transfers
are provided with new and comfort-
able vehicles, and the travel time is 10% OFF MINIBUS
significantly shorter. There are no LONG-DISTANCE TRANSFERS
other stops on the way, unless you If you travel with us between
ask us to do so (for lunch or toilet). Prague and other EU cities like
Vienna, Nuremberg, Passau,
and Krakow etc., we offer 10%
discount on such transport if
you book and pre-pay a Supe-
rior Tour of Prague or Dinner
on the river cruise.

Book online at www.prague-airport-transfers.co.uk

40
Excursions and Transfers Organized by Prague Airport Transfers
DRESDEN

Terezín
Karlovy Vary Mladá Boleslav
Lidice PRAGUE KRAKOW
Křivoklát
Mariánské
Lázně Kutná Hora
Karlštejn
Konopiště
Plzeň Olomouc
NUREMBERG

Hluboká Jindřichův Hradec


Brno
České Budějovice
Český Krumlov

PASSAU
VIENNA BUDAPEST

Destination km travel time Destination km travel time


Brno 210 1:45 Křivoklát 60 1:00
Budapest 520 4:45 Kutná Hora 70 1:15
České Budějovice 160 2:15 Lidice 30 0:30
Český Krumlov 180 2:45 Mariánské Lázně 170 2:00
Dresden 150 1:45 Mladá Boleslav 70 0:45
Hluboká 150 2:00 Nuremberg 290 2:45
Jindřichův Hradec 150 1:45 Olomouc 280 2:45
Karlovy Vary 130 1:45 Passau 220 3:00
Karlštejn 40 0:45 Plzeň 90 1:00
Konopiště 50 0:30 Terezín 60 1:50
Krakow 550 5:30 Vienna 340 3:45

Times and estimated distances are for one-way transfers from/to Prague’s city centre.
 41
Transportation Best Deals

TRANSFER FROM/TO PRAGUE CITY CENTRE

One way, price in CZK 1-4 pax 5-8 pax


Berlin CZK 6408 (€ 256) CZK 8010 (€ 320)
Bratislava CZK 5904 (€ 236) CZK 7380 (€ 295)
Brno CZK 3708 (€ 148) CZK 4635 (€ 185)
Budapest CZK 9450 (€ 378) CZK 11813 (€ 473)
Český Krumlov CZK 3520 (€ 141) CZK 4400 (€ 176)
Dresden CZK 3000 (€ 120) CZK 3750 (€ 150)
Frankfurt CZK 9270 (€ 371) CZK 11588 (€ 464)
Hradec Kralové CZK 2360 (€ 94) CZK 2950 (€ 118)
Jelenia Gora CZK 3420 (€ 137) CZK 4275 (€ 171)
Karlovy Vary CZK 2540 (€ 102) CZK 3175 (€ 127)
Krakow CZK 9720 (€ 389) CZK 12150 (€ 486)
Liberec CZK 2280 (€ 91) CZK 2850 (€ 114)
Linz CZK 4392 (€ 176) CZK 5490 (€ 220)
Mariánské Lázně CZK 3400 (€ 136) CZK 4250 (€ 170)
Mladá Boleslav CZK 1400 (€ 56) CZK 1750 (€ 70)
Nuremberg CZK 5238 (€ 210) CZK 6548 (€ 262)
Passau CZK 3942 (€ 158) CZK 4928 (€ 197)
Plzeň CZK 1840 (€ 74) CZK 2300 (€ 92)
Salzburg CZK 6768 (€ 271) CZK 8460 (€ 338)
Vienna CZK 5958 (€ 238) CZK 7448 (€ 298)
Warsaw CZK 12384 (€ 495) CZK 15480 (€ 619)
Other Cities ask us ask us
For 9 or more passengers, you can request a price quotation by emailing us your details.

Book online at www.prague-airport-transfers.co.uk

42
PAYMENT OPTIONS:
– Cash on arrival (we accept
Prague Taxi Services CZK, GBP, EUR and USD)
– Credit cards (you can make
Our professional, English-speak- the payment online or pay
ing drivers have an excellent the chauffeur)
knowledge of the city and will – MC, Visa, AMEX, Diner’s Club
pick you up straight from your and JCB are acceptable
– Bank transfers (for corporate
hotel (or any other location you
customers)
choose) and take you wherever – PayPal
you need to go.

Taxi services Sedan vehicle Business sedan Minivan vehicle


1—4 group 1—4 group 1—8 group
Vehicle type Škoda Superb Mercedes E class Mercedes Vito/Viano

City zone CZK 25/km CZK 28/km CZK 28/km


Zone Airport CZK 590 (€ 22.50) CZK 685 (€ 26.50) CZK 780 (€ 30)
Zone Train station CZK 390 (€ 15) CZK 550 (€ 21) CZK 550 (€ 21)
Minimum charge* CZK 250 CZK 300 CZK 300
Waiting fee** CZK 220/hour CZK 280/hour CZK 280/hour

*) There is a minimum charge per trip. If your fare calculation based on the km is lower than this
amount you still be charged our minimum charge. We offer fixed prices only—no taxi metres.
**) There is no traffic waiting fee. If your vehicle is stuck in a traffic jam we do not charge extra. But if
you require waiting at your request we do charge a waiting fee per hour (charged per each 15-minute
interval).

Book online at www.prague-airport-transfers.co.uk

 43
Shopping

Lucerna Passage with an upside down version of St. Wenceslas and his horse
Shopping

M ost shopping malls and arcades are located


in the centre of Prague on Wenceslas Square,
in the streets of Na Příkopě, 28. října, Národní,
Vinohradská (above the National Museum), Pařížská
are on or in the vicinity of Old Town Square.

Pařížská, in Josefov, is home to the venirs, t-shirts with ‘Franz Kafka‘ on


city’s luxury stores, among them them, Mucha merchandise, Russian
branches of the international fash- dolls, puppets and Czech porcelain
ion houses. Celetná in Staré Město, and glass.
and Na příkopě on the border of Beginning late in August, always
Nové Město, also specialize in luxury attend the summer sales. January
goods, clothes and souvenirs. The to mid-February is the optimal time
city’s modern department store to stock up on pants, jackets and
is the multi-storey MY Národní on sweaters and other warmer clothing
Národní, connected with the Quadrio for a fraction of their usual prices.
shopping mall. Fall fashion starts following the
Locals have had their own malls - sales in the summer; the fun colour
known as passages - since the 1920s, and radiant florals of spring-time
and new ones continue to pop up. arrive in February, and the sum-
The biggest of all malls is Palladium, mer items are found in stores once
on Náměstí Republiky, housed in a Easter is over.
castellated former army barracks. For Best buys or recommended items
more off-beat, independent shops, to look for in Prague include Bohemi-
you need to explore the cobbled an glass, crystal and china, ceramics,
side-streets of the Old Town and wooden toys and local handicrafts.
New Town. For outlets, you need to Non-EU residents exporting goods
explore the city suburbs. to another non-EU country are enti-
Close to the tourist attractions tled to tax back; just look for the blue
there are many shops selling sou- TAX FREE sticker in stores.
 45
Shopping

What Souvenir to Buy? MOSER


This is a very well known and re-
The Karlova street connecting the Old spected Bohemian glassmaker. Mo-
Town Square with the Charles Bridge is ser was founded in Karlovy Vary in
the busiest road in Prague, and is heav- 1857 and is famous for its rich and
ily frequented by tourists. It is packed flamboyant designs. Visit their shop
with similar shops selling identical on Na Příkopě located at the House
items and it pays to be cautious. The of the Black Rose.
same can be said about Celetná, link- Na Příkopě 12, New Town
ing Old Town Square with Powder Gate Daily 10am—8pm
and Municipal House. If you want to www.moser-glass.com
take traditional Czech items home with
you, then you ought to shop away from ERPET
this area. Although the large quantity of A wide range of top-notch crystal
crystal, garnets and glassware being sold from a variety of manufacturers.
are authentically Czech, and some shops, Old Town Square 27
like Moser, are also genuine, you should 10am—11pm
definitely avoid the shops which sell www.erpetcrystal.cz
Slavic items, unless you wish to acquire
some colourful nesting dolls from Russia, ART DÉCORATIF
or some Communist-style furry hats. In This is a stunning shop and sells
fact, a wide array of dubious items are the best jewellery, lamps and furni-
available, as most of the other stores sell ture in the whole of Prague, most of
inexpensive goods from China, which which is in the Secessionist style.
just have Prague logos stuck to them. U Obecního domu 2, New Town
10am—8pm every day
Czech Crystal, Glass, Porcelain www.artdecoratif.cz
and Ceramics
Bohemian glass is famous the
world over for its uniqueness and
quality. You’ll find a lot of Bohe-
mian glass, china and crystal shops
spread all around the city centre. The
most popular place to start look-
ing is around Wenceslas Square, Na
Příkopě and Celetná and close to the
Charles Bridge. The two top produc-
ers are Moser and Egermann.
46
Czech Glass

Beads and Jewellery Imitations


Beads have been made in the
Most shops and shopping Jablonec area since the 16th century,
malls are open on Sunday as and sold under the Jablonex brand to
well. Big shopping malls close more than 80 countries for the past
at 8pm or 10pm. 50 years.

BELDA JEWELLERY
ARTĚL A showroom of a family run firm
Artěl is no ordinary luxury crystal currently making modern pieces fol-
company; they present a striking lowing their own desings and in co-
collection that flaunts hand-crafted operation with other contemporary
finesse, in subtle, sophisticated rain- designers as well as high-quality re-
bow hues, bold graphic design and productions and new jewellery from
contemporary shapes. designs by the 19th century artist
U lužického semináře 7 Alfons Mucha.
Celetná 29 (entrance on Rybná) Mikulandská 10, Prague 1
Daily 10am—7pm 11am—6pm Mon—Fri
www.artelglass.com www.belda.cz
 47
Shopping

Czech Garnet
The blood-red garnet is the official
Czech national gem, a popular urban HAVEL MARKET
accessory, and is considered the best Dating back to 1232, this mar-
tourist purchase if you are jewellery- ket has seen many changes
shopping in Prague. Garnets aren’t over the centuries. What began
necessarily deep red. There are at as only a produce market is
least five specific kinds; some are beginning to get back to its
almost transparent and others are roots as the produce stands
black, while the scarce green garnet now outnumber the souvenir
is much sought-after. According to stalls. The market is located off
Czech legends the gemstone consist- of Melantrichova Street near
ently wields its mystical powers to Můstek. Open daily 7am-6pm.
replace sadness with joy.
Most garnets are mined near
the small town of Teplice, situated Czech Marionettes
about 63km northwest of Prague. In Prague, a city offering operas fea-
Garnets are produced by a single turing traditional Czech marionettes,
company – Granat Turnov (the only these puppets make a great gift. You
company authorized to mine Czech may know someone who would fancy
garnets) – which has branches in one of these eerie, but unarguably
Dlouhá and Panská street, and many artistic creations.
resellers.
THE PUPPET SHOP
GRANÁT TURNOV Nerudova 51, Prague 1
Part of the country’s biggest jewel- www.marionettes.cz
lery chain, specialising in Bohemian
garnet, with a huge range of gold and Absinthe
silver rings, brooches, cufflinks and You do not have to be absolutely insane
necklaces, all featuring the small, to like absinthe, but the potent, chemis-
dark blood-red stones. There is also try-lab green spirit is 70% alcohol.
pearl and diamond jewellery and less
expensive pieces set with the dark Handicrafts and Gifts
green semi-precious stone known in There are many places in Prague to
Czech as vltavín (moldavite). get traditional Czech products, such
Dlouhá 28-30, Old Town as handmade soap, beeswax candles,
10am-6pm Mon-Fri, Sat until 1pm natural cosmetics, wooden toys and
www.granat.eu other traditional Czech handicrafts.
48
MANUFAKTURA MODERNISTA
This shop offers original handcrafts, Modernista concentrates on Czech
wooden toys and handmade skin design from the last 100 years, with
care items. Their home woven linens reproductions of pieces by Adolf
are genuine. They have plenty of lo- Loos and Functionalist designers. The
cations around Prague, but its major main branch is located on the 2nd
one is Melantrichova 17. storey of Vinohradský Pavilon.
Daily 10am-8pm Vinohradská 50, Prague 2
www.manufaktura.cz www.modernista.cz

BOTANICUS TIMOURE ET GROUP


With many positions in Prague, this Tailor-made coats, suits, trousers,
brand of natural soap, herb and jackets and sweaters.
scent is a fantastic Anglo/ Czech V Kolkovně 6, Old Town
success story. It was begun by a Martinská 4, Old Town
botanist from Britain and a Czech www.timoure.cz
partner on a farm to the north east
of Prague. Doctor Stuart’s make KLARA NADEMLYNSKA BOUTIQUE
wonderfully scented items which Boutique of one of the most famous
are excellent gifts for you to take and succesful Czech fashion design-
back home with you. ers, designed by Olgoj Chorchoj.
Týnský dvůr, Old Town (to the rear Dlouhá 3, Old Town
of the church of Týn) / Michalská Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat 10am-6pm
4, adjacent to Havelské Tržiště, Old www.klaranademlynska.cz
Town
www.botanicus.cz HELENA FEJKOVÁ
Occasionally quaint and always won-
Design Shops derfully cut clothing, a venue for
GALERIE KUBISTA finding a garment for special events.
Kubista concentrates on superb re- Vinohradská 156, Prague 3
productions of Czech Cubist works, 11am-7pm Mon-Fri
including ceramics and furniture, as www.helenafejkova.cz
well as selling a number of original
pieces. Fittingly, it is located in the BOHÉME
Cubist House of the Black Madonna. Czech clothing store for women.
Ovocný trh 19, Old Town Dušní 8, Old Town
10am-7pm Mon-Fri Mon-Fri 11am-7pm, Sat 11am-5pm
www.kubista.cz www.boheme.cz
 49
Shopping

Shopping Malls NOVÝ SMÍCHOV


Prague’s first shopping centres start- This is a fashionable and modern
ed opening in the mid-1990s. Since shopping centre, as well as a favour-
then, Prague has been experiencing ite entertainment centre. It is located
a shopping mall boom. Today, visi- in the district of Smíchov, about a
tors to Prague have plenty of choices 10-minute walk from the city centre.
of where to go for a shopping spree. Nový Smíchov is spread across three
floors filled with 160 different shops,
PALLADIUM a food court and a Cinema City mul-
This very large shopping centre, is tiplex. There are several stylish bou-
located in the city centre near the tiques, a large electronics shop and
Municipal House, a few minutes’ a Tesco hypermarket. There is also a
walk from Na Příkopě. There are four huge area for parking underground.
floors, with more than 200 shops To get there take either a tram or the
and over 20 restaurants and cafés. metro (line B) to Anděl.
There is also some historical value Plzeňská 8, Smíchov
behind Palladium, as the founda- Shops daily 9am-9pm,
tions are associated with 12th cen- restaurants until 10pm, Tesco
tury structures which have been in- from 6am-12 midnight
tegrated into the architecture of the www.novysmichov.eu
shopping centre.
Náměstí Republiky 1 MYSLBEK SHOPPING GALLERY
Shopping gallery Sun–Wed This small shopping centre is located
9am-9pm and Thu-Sat 9am-10pm; in a modern building just opposite
Supermarket Mon-Sun 7am-10pm, the Černá růže (Black Rose) shop-
Restaurants Mon-Sun 8am-11pm ping centre. It is accessible from Na
www.palladiumpraha.cz Příkopě Street or from Ovocný Trh
Square. Behind a striking modern
MY NÁRODNÍ (TESCO) facade, this cosy and relaxed shop-
Just over the metro, the Národní is ping gallery has 30 shops and bou-
a 5 storey monolith, rather than a tiques offering mostly fashion goods,
normal retail outlet. Also, it is the cosmetics, leather materials, ties
most centrally positioned supermar- and pearls. The shopping centre also
ket, and the place you visit to get a contains a few restaurants.
few evening supplies, or some fresh Na Příkopě 19, New Town
bread or fruit. Daily Mon-Sat 9am-8pm & Sun
Národní 26, Prague 1 10am-7pm
Mon-Sat 7am-9pm, Sun 8am-9pm www.ngmyslbek.cz
50
FASHION ARENA OUTLET METROPOLE ZLIČÍN
This is an outlet centre where you This is not the biggest mall but it does
will find dozens of shops with brands have various fast food restaurants, a
discounted by 30-70%. It is open dai- cinema and a supermarket. It also has
ly 10am-8pm. To get there, take the plentiful parking and is close to the
metro (line A) to Depot Hostivař and metro and bus route. You can jump on
from there the shuttle bus runs di- bus number 100 from the airport to
rectly to Fashion Arena. Zličín to do some shopping or grab a
Zamenhofova 440, Štěrboholy bite to eat when you leave the airport.
Daily 10am-8pm Metro station Zličín
www.fashion-arena.cz Daily 9am-9pm (shops)
www.metropole.cz
SLOVANSKÝ DŮM
On the street of Na Příkopě is lo- ŠESTKA
cated Slovanský Dům shopping mall, Šestka is a new shopping mall and is
featuring top stores, restaurants, very rarely busy. It is located one stop
cafes, beauty salons and a multi- from Prague Airport, meaning that it
plex cinema. Inside this lovely social is very far from the city centre but
complex you will be amazed by the perfect to visit just before you leave.
elegant, modern design and com- Daily 9am-9pm
bination of high-end retailers like www.oc-sestka.cz
Armani, Clinique, Tommy Hilfiger
and Calvin Klein, and award-winning LUCERNA PASSAGE
restaurants. Small shops, boutiques and interest-
Daily 10am-8pm, ing cafes can be found in passages
restaurants until 11pm which run under the Art Nouveau
www.slovanskydum.cz Lucerna Palace connecting the
Vodičkova and Štěpánská streets
KORUNA PASSAGE just off the Wenceslas Square. Here
This passage, located at the bottom you will find the entrance to the the
of Wenceslas Square in the Art Nou- Lucerna cinema, a rock club, unique
veau Koruna Palace, offers clothing boutiques, a wine shop, crystal
boutiques, a pizzeria, jewellery and stores, and the Lucerna café. You
watch stores, a cafe, Body Basics, a can’t miss an upside-down version of
jewellery store, and Bontonland St Wenceslas and his horse by David
Megastore (the largest music store Černý, hanging from the dome of the
in Prague). atrium of the Lucerna passage.
www.koruna-palace.cz www.lucerna.cz
 51
Restaurants and Cafés

Roasted pork knee


Restaurants and Cafés

R estaurants in Prague have improved over the


past few decades since the Communist times,
when the state-licensed establishments had little
incentive to progress.

Today, Prague’s dining scene is in a The Restaurant La Degustation


constant state of flux, with new restau- Boehme and Alcron has been award-
rants opening and closing constantly ed a Michelin star. Apart from the
and where you can find everything Michelin Star-awarded restaurants,
from traditional Czech, Italian, Sushi the Michelin Guide also recom-
and Thai to Vietnamese food. While mends the following, slightly more
standards are now much higher, there affordable, restaurants: Aromi, Di-
are still too many restaurants which vins, Le Terroir, Sansho, Aureole and
serve mediocre meals for the masses SaSazu.
of tourists. Most restaurants at tour- There are also some restaurants
ist places in the Old Town and Lesser that will give you a fantastic view of
Town are likely to be tourist traps and the city including Bellavista, Tera-
should be avoided, serving overpriced sa U Zlaté Studně (Terrace at the
meals rather than being the gourmet Golden Well), Boat Hotel Matylda
experience you would expect. Always Ristorante, Kampa Park, Letenský
ask locals or follow review websites. zámeček (Letná Beer Garden), Coda
But the good news is that, com- at the Aria Hotel, Terasa Hotel
pared to other Western European U  Prince, Ginger & Fred, Villa Rich-
cities, eating out in Prague is still ter, Grosseto Marina Ristorante and
very affordable. Hergetova Cihelna.
Between 11am and 2pm virtually If you are looking for a little
every restaurant in Prague offers a romance as well Palffy Palace, U
discounted lunch menu, therefore Modré Kachničky, Restaurant Pod
meaning you can eat a lot cheaper Věží or La Finestra in Cucina will all
than usual. fit the bill.
 53
Restaurants and Cafés

Czech Cuisine ‘smažený sýr‘ (fried cheese). Fried


cheese was, for a long time, practi-
Visitors to Prague often miss out on cally the only vegetarian dish served
the best of traditional Czech cuisine in restaurants.
which is heavily meat-based, but also
quite diverse. Do not miss this, un- Tipping in Restaurants
less you are a vegetarian. The tradi- A basic 5%-15% is appreciated, but
tional national dish is “pork, cabbage not mandatory. Czechs mostly just
and dumplings” (vepřo-knedlo-zelo) round the bill up to the next round
which must be accompanied with a ten crowns. You can leave cash on the
pint of beer or two, the most typical table if you thought the service was
Czech beverage. good, or say ‘dobrý‘ when paying your
This dish is composed of roast waiter, it means “OK”, as in “keep the
pork, ‘knedlíky’ (bread or potato-like change”. Or, when handing over the
dumplings, which is a kind of gnoc- money, just say how much you would
chi made from bread or potato), like to pay. If you say nothing, you will
gravy and sauerkraut (pickled cab- receive the exact change.
bage). The reason why it gained so Some restaurants add a “service fee”
much popularity is because of its to the final amount, so the tip is in-
balanced taste, with the sour taste cluded. If you are unsure, just ask.
of sauerkraut a perfect complement Also, if you are unsure about any
to the salty taste of the meat. items on the bill, it is wise to ask.
Popular choices to try are roast It can be hard to figure out exactly
duck or sirloin beef in a cream what you are being charged for, and
sauce (svíčková na smetaně) with “mistakes” are not uncommon. Even
bread dumplings and garnished today, some establishments try to rip
with cranberries. Czech cuisine also off tourists.
adopted schnitzel (breaded and
fried chicken or pork) from Vienna, Cheap Restaurants
goulash (meat in gravy with bread Cheap restaurants are not hard to
dumplings) from Hungary, and other find, but can be less frequent around
things like sour cream, vinegar, sour tourist spots. Generally, prices in
vegetables and gherkins – probably cheap restaurants range from CZK
from the East. 130 to CZK 250 for dinner and beer.
Among grab-and-go foods, ‘bram- Most of them serve Czech, Italian or
borák‘ (a garlic-seasoned fried pota- American style dishes. It is also pos-
to pancake) is a quick, if not greasy, sible to eat very cheaply at some lo-
local favourite. The same goes for cal Chinese restaurants for around
54
CZK 80 for a lunch. A set meal at Mc- BOHEMIA BAGEL €
Donald’s or KFC will cost you around A wide variety of fresh bagels, sand-
CZK 120. Please note that most of wiches and homemade soups are
the cheap restaurants do not accept available here, as well as bottomless
credit cards. cups of coffee. We recommend you
try the muffins, and cheesecakes.
PIZZERIA KMOTRA € Opened in 1996 by American entre-
Here you can eat pizza. It is a peren- preneur.
nial favourite: hence, the long queue Lázeňská 19, Lesser Town
for a table. Open 7:30am-6pm
V Jirchářích 12, New Town Masná 2, Old Town
Daily 11am-midnight Open daily 8am-8pm
www.kmotra.cz www.bohemiabagel.cz

U KROKA € Restaurant Picks


It is not the best in Prague but if you U PRINCE HOTEL
have a small budget, this restaurant ROOF TERRACE BAR €€€
is definitely worth it. Whether you If you are looking for romance in
try goulash, pork with dumplings or Prague, then one of the best spots in
potato soup the portions are big and town is the U Prince Hotel Roof Ter-
the food is well cooked. race Bar. As you sit down for a drink,
Vratislavova 12, Prague 2 be sure to enjoy the roof-top terrace
Daily 11am-11pm at the five-star hotel by the same
www.ukroka.cz name. Located in Old Town Square,
the sights are unforgettable as you
PIZZA COLOSEUM € are at eye-level with the famous As-
This chain of restaurants is dotted tronomical Clock Tower. The Roof Ter-
around Prague and is a solid place race Bar has some of the best views
for pizza and pasta. They are often in all of Prague, and you can watch as
busy, but a still choice for a pre- the sun sets on Prague Castle and the
movie dinner. square itself. You can even enjoy this
Vodičkova 32 in New Town and spot year round as there are heaters
upstairs in Koruna Passage on the and covers which keep the terrace
corner of Wenceslas Square and warm and protected even in the mid-
Na Příkopě dle of the winter months.
Mon-Sat 11:30am-11:30pm, U Prince Hotel, Old Town Square 29
Sun noon-11:30pm Open daily 11am-11:30pm
www.pizzacoloseum.cz www.hoteluprince.com
 55
Restaurants and Cafés

SASAZU €€
SaSaZu continues its reign as the top
upmarket Asian restaurant in Prague. GO TO RESTAURANTS
The chef, Shahaf Shabtay, has trav- WHERE CZECH PEOPLE GO
elled the world, and it shows on his Many of the best areas of
menu, which includes flavours and Prague are in the cobbled
dishes from India, Thailand, Vietnam, alleyways knotted together in
Indonesia and other exotic locales in delightful warrens, and this
Southeast Asia. Prices for individual is where the best bars and
entrées are not outrageous. restaurants can be found.
Bubenské nábřeží 306/13, Prague 7 Unfortunately the grungy bars
Sun-Thur 12 noon- 12 midnight & have moved here as well, but
Fri-Sat 12 noon-1am they are easy to tell apart.
CZK 150-500 Signs and menus in English
www.sasazu.com (especially if exclusively in
English) are a warning to leave
AMBIENTE €€ immediately. However, staff
If you’re up for perfect homemade being able to speak English is
pasta with a large selection of wine, simply a tribute to the Czech
one of the best choices is the per- education system, and not a
manently best-rated Ambi chain reflection on the establish-
restaurant Pasta Fresca. From street ment.
level, where the café is, the restau- A tourist wrangler on the
rant might not look extremely charm- street outside should be
ing, but once you enter the stairs will treated with caution, and their
take you to the intimate 300-year- desperate or cunning entreat-
old cellar where everything is made ies ignored. Finally, a simple
by hand. look at the other customers
Celetná 11, Old Town should tell you a lot. Local
Daily 11am until midnight Czech people go to the best
(café open 10am until midnight) restaurants, tourists go to the
CZK 200-400 easiest restaurants.
http://pastafresca.ambi.cz

PIANO NOBILE below Prague Castle in a summer-


AT VILLA RICHTER €€€ house that dates all the way back to
This fine, exquisite French restau- 1836. Newly restored, this restaurant
rant is located on the hillside just offers not only a tremendous view of
56
Prague, but also fine food at reason- Expensive Restaurants
able prices. The restaurant also has If money is not an issue, you can
over 2500 bottles of wine, including sample some of the best gourmet
a wide international selection as restaurants in Prague. When you pay
well as popular Czech wines. a premium price, you expect VIP treat-
Staré zámecké schody 6, Prague ment—which is unfortunately not the
Castle case in every establishment. Our per-
Daily 11am-11pm sonal recommendations are the res-
CZK 350-550 taurants: Bellevue, with unparalleled
www.villarichter.cz views of Prague Castle and Charles
Bridge, Ginger & Fred, for its excellent
CHEZ MARCEL €€ French cuisine and views of the Prague
This is Prague’s most authentic skyline. Another good tip is V Zátiší
Parisian-style brasserie popular where you can indulge in a 5-course
with locals and “expats”. The daily menu, located just beside Bethlehem
specials are recommended: pepper Chapel. For seafood specialities, try
steak and paté. Restaurant Restaurant Ungelt. Al-
Haštalská 12, Old Town though not cheap, the dishes are an
Daily 11:30am-11pm amazing combination of art and taste.
www.chezmarcel.cz
GINGER & FRED €€½
KONÍRNA RESTAURANT €½ This restaurant offers one of the
Set in the middle of Lesser Town, best French cuisines in Prague and
Konírna Restaurant offers traditional is located on the top floor of one of
Czech food. The building which hous- Prague‘s most famous modern land-
es the restaurant actually dates back marks, the ‘Dancing House‘ (Tančící
to 1176, but has recently undergone dům). There are amazing views of
an entire transformation that has the city both from the inside din-
not only kept, but also enhanced ing room and the rooftop terrace.
the atmosphere and character. The Recommended are red snapper à la
food on the menu is a blend of Czech Provençal, tournedos de boeuf with
favorites and international ones as Béarnaise sauce and young rabbit in
well with such meals as beef sirloin mustard sauce.
and rib eye steak. Rašínovo nábřeží 80, Prague 2
Maltézské náměstí 292/10, Lesser Daily noon-11pm
Town (no lunch on Mondays)
Daily 11am-midnight From CZK 700 and up
www.konirna.eu www.ginger-fred-restaurant.cz
 57
Restaurants and Cafés

French, Mediterranean and Asian influ-


ences also include fois gras, monk fish,
royal pigeon, traditional French bouil-
labaisse, chocolate almond cake and
homemade ice cream. This menu may
be expensive but it is an act of luxury
that some people may not get the op-
portunity to experience anywhere else.
U Zlaté Studně 4, Lesser Town
Daily from 7am-11pm
A La Carte menu CZK 720-1150
Multi-course menu at CZK 2100
www.terasauzlatestudne.cz

Kampa Park BELLEVUE €€€


Stunning views of the castle and river
KAMPA PARK €€½ complement the outstanding world-
Kampa Park is an excellent choice, class, carefully crafted continental
especially in the summer when din- cuisine, served up in an atmosphere
ers can eat outside beside the River of formal elegance. There is also a
Vltava. Superb Scandinavian seafood lovely summer terrace. Fancied by
and seasonal specialities are among
the top choices at this posh river-
side restaurant. Weekday lunches
offer great value and are especially
popular.
They are located at Na Kampě 8b,
Lesser Town (Kampa Island)
Daily 11:30am-11pm (bar is open
11:30am-1am)
CZK 500-1000
www.kampagroup.com

TERASA U ZLATÉ STUDNĚ €€€


The food is the clear highlight of this
restaurant, but the views across the
red-tiled rooftops of Lesser Town are
also stunning. The kitchen, which has Bellevue
58
families, couples and businesses “traditional” Czech atmosphere have
alike, the Bellevue is considered to turned touristy, although they are
be one of the top places to eat. still lots of fun, great value and liked
Smetanovo nábřeží 18, Prague 1 by local people.
Daily noon-3pm (last orders 2pm)
and 5:30pm-11pm (last orders 10pm) U KALICHA (AT THE CHALICE) €€
From CZK 1000 and up Here you will find real Czech food.
www.bellevuerestaurant.cz The Good Soldier Švejk made a date
with a friend here for ‚six in the
V ZÁTIŠÍ €€€ evening after the war‘. It has lots of
This is one of the best restaurants atmosphere and standard Czech fare.
in Prague. V Zátiší is a relaxed, Na Bojišti 12-14, Prague 2
sophisticated venue, which was Daily 11am-3pm and 5-10pm
among the first restaurants to open www.ukalicha.cz
in Prague following the Velvet Rev-
olution. The restaurant is beautiful BREDOVSKÝ DVŮR €
with several different rooms deco- It serves the usual Czech dishes,
rated in different styles. You may sometimes with great aplomb. The
select from Bohemian, French or ribs here stand out, as well does the
Oriental menu. duck.
Betlémské nám. / Liliová 1, Old Politických vězňů 13, New Town
Town Mon-Sat 11am until midnight,
Daily noo-3pm & 5:30pm-11pm Sun 11am-11 pm
Three courses menu CZK 1090 www.restauracebredovskydvur.cz
www.vzatisi.cz
VÝTOPNA €½
Czech Traditional Restaurants This Czech restaurant right on top of
With cheap student pubs being the Wenceslas Square boasts 400m
closed and substituted for more of miniature railway system that
profitable hotels and shops, it is winds around the room and delivers
becoming hard to locate a genu- drinks to your table. Unique restau-
inely authentic Czech restaurant or rant for families and indeed for big
pub in the historical centre of the kids of all ages.
city. Many Czechs do not frequent Wenceslas Sq. 56 (in Palác Fénix),
“authentic” eateries, and prefer the New Town
more cosmopolitan food of other Sun-Thr 11am-midnight,
countries to boring sauerkraut. Con- Fri-Sat 11am-1am
sequently, historic venues with a https://vytopna.cz/
 59
Restaurants and Cafés

Traditional Czech Roast Duck with potato dumplings and cabbage

KOLKOVNA €½ with traditional side dishes such as


Run by the Pilsner Urquell brewery, dumplings and red and white cab-
Kolkovna is a stylish, modern take bage, along with mashed potatoes
on the traditional Prague beer hall and chips.
decorated with historical photos V Kolkovně 8, Old Town
and advertisements, and old tools 11am-midnight
and artefacts traditionally used in www.vkolkovne.cz
beer brewing. The food is reasonably
priced, with a large selection of tradi- U SÁDLŮ €½
tional Czech fare such as roast duck The restaurant has a middle-ages
and pork, Moravian sparrow, goulash theme, complete with suits of ar-
and venison. Main courses are served mour and weaponry on the wall.
60
Their kitchen produces outstanding served in a trendy space, with free-
tenderloin, hearty soups and other flowing Pilsner and a lively, upbeat
burly fare, but with a certain “je ne pub atmosphere.
sais quoi”, that is moderately priced. Dlouhá 33, Old Town
The food is really excellent and the Mon-Fri 11am-1am, Sat 12pm-1am,
portions are big. Sun 12pm-10pm
Klimentská 2, New Town http://lokal-dlouha.ambi.cz
Mon-Thr 11am-midnight, Fri-Sat
11am-1am, Sun noon-midnight CZECHHOUSE GRILL €€½
www.usadlu.cz The Hilton Prague‘s flagship res-
taurant features Czech specialties
LA DEGUSTATION BOHÊME €€€ as well as contemporary European
La Degustation Bohême features cuisine. In this vast room inside the
traditional Czech food, utilizing late Hilton, Chef Roman Paulus concen-
nineteenth century recipes. Restau- trates on upscale, modern versions
rant, led by Chef Oldřich Sahajdák is of classics, but throws in a few twists,
one of the two restaurants in Prague such as an over-the top prime beef
which have received the Michelin tartar with caviar. Except for the less
Star. A team of chefs and pâtissiers appealing view of a car park and of-
prepare three menus consisting of fice building, there is nothing disap-
multiple courses supplemented with pointing about this place.
seven amuse-bouches. Visit their Pobřežní 1, Karlín (inside the
website for a menu selected using Hilton Hotel)
organic ingredients from Czech farms Daily 6pm-11pm
and small produce providers. www.hiltonprague.com
Haštalská 753/18, Old Town
Daily 6pm-midnight U PROVAZNICE €½
www.ladegustation.cz The room is unusual, with bizarre art-
work and a poor masquerade of the
LOKÁL € faux-finish technique. The wooden
Part of the successful Ambiente tables and chairs are very uncom-
chain of „inventive“ restaurants, fortable, but it is quite difficult to
Lokál has championed the „Slow find a more reasonably priced ex-
Food“ movement here in the Czech ample of Czech cooking anywhere so
Republic, turning out quality, mod- close to the city centre.
erately priced Czech plates – think Provaznická 3, Old Town
livers, fried cheese, svíčková (beef Daily 11am until midnight
in a cream sauce and dumplings) – www.uprovaznice.cz
 61
Restaurants and Cafés

Vegetarian Restaurants ian restaurants opened in Prague.


There are not many “100% pure” veg- Various selections of Indian spe-
etarian restaurants in Prague, so if cialities and other meals inspired
you are searching for one, it is good by western culinary art are on the
to know that many restaurants which menu. Simple interior, meditative
appear in vegetarian directories are music, low prices – that’s what char-
often mixed restaurants, serving both acterize this place.
meat and only a few veggie dishes. Soukenická 27, Prague 1
Except for well-known vegan restau- Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat 12pm-4pm
rants like Country Life and Govinda, CZK 100-150
check the ingredients in the dishes, www.govindarestaurace.cz
as it is not unusual for your potential
veggie meal to include pork. LEHKÁ HLAVA (CLEAR HEAD) €
A non-smoking, open-kitchen restau-
COUNTRY LIFE €½ rant and tearoom, where you won’t
This cafeteria-like or buffet-style meet meat but excellent and cheap
vegetarian food hall offers a variety vegetarian cuisine. The menu fea-
of ready-made selections, including tures specials, tapas, soups, salads,
sandwiches, salads, veggie burg- desserts, pasta, main entrées, fresh
ers and veggie goulash. The extra juices, and other beverages. No eggs
healthy unprocessed, unrefined, are used. The interior is unique, with
non-dairy food is charged according each room having a different theme,
to weight. This place gets really busy, a small colourful contemporary
but don’t get frightened by the long room, a warm orange room with fish
line – it moves quickly. It also has a tank, and a blue heaven room where
health food store where you can pick the ceiling is decorated with stars.
up some items to cook at home. Boršov 2, Prague 1
Jungmannova 1, Prague 1 Mon-Fri 10:30am-11:30pm, Sat-Sun
Mon-Fri from 8:30am, Sat&Sun 12pm-11:30pm
closed CZK 150-200
Melantrichova 15, Prague 1 www.lehkahlava.cz
Mon-Fri from 10:30am, Sun from
12pm Famous Cafés
www.countrylife.cz CAFÉ IMPERIAL €€
Café Imperial is a wonderfully el-
GOVINDA € egant and stylish place to indulge
The vegetarian restaurant Govinda yourself in for a few hours. This grand
belongs to one of the first vegetar- Habsburg-era café was recently reno-
62
vated and has retained its original, Corner of Smetanovo nábřeží and
over-the-top, 20th century, cream- Národní třída
and-mustard ceramic tiled decor Mon-Sat 8am-12am,
and colourful mosaic ceiling. You can Sat-Sun 9am-12am
come here just for a coffee and cake www.cafeslavia.cz
and soak up the atmosphere, or go a
step further and enjoy a good meal CAFÉ SAVOY €½
from the kitchen of one of the Czech Spacious and unhurried, this elegant
Republic’s most well known TV celeb- café on the edge of Malá Strana is
rity chefs. rarely troubled by tourist overload
Na Poříčí 15, Prague 1 and makes a good refuge from the
Daily 7am-11pm hustle and bustle of the town cen-
www.cafeimperial.cz tre. A small fountain at the entrance
adds a touch of class and the lofty,
MUNICIPAL HOUSE CAFÉ €€ extravagantly decorated 19th-centu-
This splendid café in Prague’s lavish ry ceiling adds real character to this
Municipal House provides the chance century-old room. The usual coffees
to sample your cappuccino amongst and sweets (including a superb ap-
a cavalcade of art nouveau elegance. ple strudel) are complemented by
Also worthy of note is the nice, small a small drinks list and a few offer-
American Bar down in the build- ings for those wanting a salad or a
ing’s basement, with polished wood, full meal.
gleaming copper and stained glass. Vítězná 124/5, Lesser Town
Náměstí Republiky 5, New Town Mon-Fri 8am-10:30pm, Sat-Sun
7.30am-11pm 9am-10:30pm
www.kavarnaod.cz www.ambi.cz

CAFÉ SLAVIA €½ CAFÉ LOUVRE €€½


This is the most famous café in Prague: This historic French-style café is a
a cherry-wood and onyx shrine to Art place for a great coffee with an even
Deco elegance, with polished lime- greater feel for the real Czech atmos-
stone-topped tables and big windows phere. There is an upstairs restaurant
overlooking the river and National with views of the Art Nouveau archi-
Theatre just across the street. Indulge tecture.
in your cup of coffee while watching Národní třída 22, New Town
the city pass by. The menu offers some Mon-Fri 8am-11:30pm,
great cream cakes, fresh salads, pasta Sat-Sun 9am-11:30pm
and vegetarian dishes. www.cafelouvre.cz
 63
Pubs and Bars

Some restaurants, especially those located in tourist areas, might try to cheat you.
Be careful and always check the bill. Don‘t eat what is left on the table, as it will
usually result in being charged extra
Pubs and Bars

B eer is the essence of any Czech culinary attitude.


Czechs like to drink and they are amongst the
biggest-drinking nations in the world. And when you
want to spend all night drinking, you have plenty of
choices as there are around 800 pubs in Prague, a
few of which have existed for centuries. The most
famous is U Zlatého tygra, not far from Old Town
Square. It is the place where former Czech president
Václav Havel took Bill Clinton for a drink in 1994.

Unfortunately, genuine Czech pub yes. And once you sit down and are
culture has developed drastically drinking your first pint, do not be
during the last decade, and some surprised if your glass is replen-
historic pubs are now highly over- ished without even asking (there is
priced and have since forced out lo- table service in Czech pubs). That is
cal drinkers due to the high cost. It part of the Czech tradition too. If you
means a lot more attention should find that pubs close a little bit early,
be paid in selecting places to visit especially on weekdays, at around
if you want to avoid the unpleasant 11pm, you might continue your night
experience of paying four times as drinking by visiting many bars.
much as necessary. Bars are usually open until early
If you have made up your mind morning and drinking there is more
and ended up at a busy pub with expensive than in pubs. One of
nearly no places to sit, don’t worry. the best upscale bars in the city is
Czech tradition is sharing a table – it Bugsy’s Cocktail Bar. Located just
is not unusual if someone asks you off of Old Town Square on Pařížská,
if they can share your table with you, Bugsy’s has a classic 1950s American
and of course, you are expected say theme, with waiters in bow ties.
 65
Pubs and Bars

Live Music at U Fleků

Pubs asking if you want to try a Becherovka


U FLEKŮ €€ – it will add CZK 80 to the bill.
On the premises of the oldest Czech Křemencova 11, New Town
brewery in Prague, this pub and micro- Daily 10am-11pm
brewery is more expensive than other www.ufleku.cz
places, but in return you are drinking
special dark beer brewed right on the U VYSTŘELENÉHO OKA €
location while enjoying live music and It is a pleasant pub with a beer gar-
chatting with tourists from all over the den and serves cheap food and beer.
world. The front façade of the 12th- This pub pulls in all sorts of people
century building is unique in that it has from backpackers to local writers.
an old, highly- decorated clock above U Božích Bojovniků 3, Žižkov
its door. 13° black beer (0.4l) known as Mon-Sat 4:30pm-1am
Flek costs CZK 59. Beware of the waiter www.uvoka.cz
66
U PINKASŮ € PIVOVARSKÝ DŮM €½
The first Prague pub to serve Pilsner The food is average, but the beer is
Urquell in 1843. It is still a place rec- experimental and very good. The res-
ommended for great and reasona- taurant’s extensive beer list boasts
bly-priced Czech meals. The interior some fairly unorthodox flavours such
is spartan, but the back patio is a as coffee and champagne. This place
surprising haven, surrounded by ru- is definitely worth a few pints, with
ins and divided into distinct open- a nice atmosphere and friendly ser-
air rooms, it welcomes boisterous vice. Locals gather here to sample the
groups (you may hear impromptu classic Czech lager and it gets crowd-
singing) or those seeking a more ro- ed, so expect to wait if you come at
mantic place. dinner time.
Jungmannovo náměstí 16, New Lípová 15, New Town
Town (close to Můstek metro station) (close to Charles Square)
Daily 10am-11:30pm 11am-11:30pm
CZK 150-250 CZK 250-400 CZK
www.upinkasu.cz www.pivovarskydum.com

U MEDVÍDKŮ €½ NOVOMĚSTSKÝ PIVOVAR €½


Some bars in Prague have veered to- (NEWTOWN BREWERY)
wards the tourist currency, although This popular local beer hall is lo-
U Medvídků has retained its tradi- cated just a few blocks from Wenc-
tional charm and is still very much eslas Square. If you have not booked,
a favourite with Czech locals. This you will be lucky to get a table. The
is a straightforward Czech pub and restaurant serves hearty Czech food
easily large enough to accommodate at very reasonable prices. Light and
everyone. dark beers from their microbrewery
Na Perštýně 7, Old Town simply must not be missed.
Daily 11am-10pm Vodičkova 20, New Town
www.umedvidku.cz Mon-Fri 10am-11:30pm, Sat
11:30am-11:30pm, Sun noon-10pm
PIVNICE U ČERNÉHO VOLA € www.npivovar.cz
This is an authentic and very nice beer
hall. Local clientele and local prices. U ZLATÉHO TYGRA €
Loretanské náměstí 1; Prague (THE GOLDEN TIGER)
Castle This is quite an old drinking hall with
Daily 10am-10pm. cool beer prices, just CZK 36 for ½ a
www.ucernehovola.cz litre of the frothy Pilsner Urquell lager.
 67
Pubs and Bars

When Bill Clinton visited the Czech Re-


Typical beer snacks public, Václav Havel former President
Pivní sýr – a little cream is added of the Czech Republic showed him
to dairy cheese and it is whipped this pub – to see a real Czech pub.
up into a froth into which a small The average beer tourist may find it
amount of fresh garlic is pressed. hard to get a seat in this popular local
hangout, so make sure you get there
Utopenec (literally drowned early as seats fill up quickly. Have a
man) – so called because it con- pint while standing at the bar, if all the
sists of a soft, strong, spicy sau- seats are taken or reserved for regu-
sage filled with onion and spicy lar patrons. This is one of the world‘s
paprika, seasoned with pepper greatest beer halls, so treat it and its
and covered or “drowned” in a regular patrons with appreciation.
liquid made from water, vinegar Husova 17, Old Town
and salt. After several days in Daily from 3pm- 11pm
cold storage, the smoked meat Mains CZK 100-150, CZK 36 per 0.5l
becomes a spicy delicacy. of Pilsner Urquell
www.uzlatehotygra.cz
Topinka – this is a piece of dark
bread fried in salt, garlic and lard LES MOULES CAFÉ €€
or oil. It is traditionally served This restaurant/café serves a large
with scrambled eggs, grated selection of Belgian beers, includ-
cheese, a meat mixture, or spicy ing Stella Artois, Chimay and Hoe-
cheese spread. gaarden. From the food menu, try
some delicious seafood.
Pickled Hermelín – Hermelin is a Only a few steps from the Jewish
camembert-type cheese. This one Museum located at Pařížská 19,
has been marinated in oil with on- Josefov
ion, garlic, hot peppers and spices. Daily 11:30am-12pm
It is a bit pricier compared to
Tlačenka s cibulí (brawn and other pubs
onion) – is a piece of haggis-re- www.lesmoules.cz
sembling meat desert, garnished
with vinegar and sprinkled with KLÁŠTERNÍ PIVOVAR €€
freshly cut slices of onion. Be (THE STRAHOV MONASTERY BREWERY)
aware that these are often quite This microbrewery is located close to
acidic because of the vinegar. Prague Castle (Strahov Monastery),
it serves simple meals and famous
68
Czech beers. The pub serves up two
varieties of its St Norbert beer – dark,
a rich, tarry brew with a creamy head,
and amber, a full-bodied, hoppy la-
ger. It might be a bit more expensive
by Czech standards, but is still a bar-
gain for travellers.
Strahovské nádvoří 301, Strahov
Daily 10am-10pm
www.klasterni-pivovar.cz U Kocoura Pub (Nerudova 2)

PIVNÍ GALERIE € similar places, and the staff is very


This is a bar and bottle shop together. friendly. Prices are very reasonable.
They have a few beers on draft, along The New Town location is on the
with hundreds of bottles of different corner of Opletalova and Politických
Czech beer. If you‘re not sure which vězňů
one to choose, ask the staff for help. Mon-Sat 11am-11:00pm
The bar is located away from the city Karmelitská 18, Lesser Town
centre, about a 2/3 of a mile from Mon-Sat 11am-11:00pm, Sun
Holešovice train station. Because of 11am-5pm
its location, many foreigners never www.ferdinanda.cz
find this very friendly bar with its
great atmosphere.
U Průhonu 9, Holešovice
Mon-Fri 11am-7pm SURVIVAL BEER DICTIONARY
www.pivnigalerie.cz Beer – PIVO
Brewery – PIVOVAR
FERDINANDA € Dark beer – TMAVÉ PIVO
This establishment has two centrally Lager beer – SVĚTLÉ PIVO
located restaurants – one in Lesser Draft beer – TOČENÉ PIVO
Town and the other in New Town. Fer- One beer – JEDNO PIVO
dinanda serves the tasty and unique Two beers – DVĚ PIVA
Ferdinand beer, or try the „Sedm kulí“ Thank you – DĚKUJI
(Seven Bullets), which is an excellent Bill please – ÚČET PROSÍM
Vienna-style beer. Of course, they Menu – JÍDELNÍ LÍSTEK
also have a good selection of pils- Good day – DOBRÝ DEN
ners and lagers. The food is different Goodbye – NASHLEDANOU
from what you would find in other
 69
Pubs and Bars

Bars
There are three types of bars unique
to Prague – the traditional Czech
pub with a perfect local atmosphere
and usually cheap beer, western-
style bars serving trendy but ex-
pensive cocktails, and the casino
bars which are a 24-hour bar-casino
combination. These below are our Czech beer is world famous
favourites.
and fun to read with over 300 differ-
O’CHE’S BAR €€ ent kinds of drink listed.
With a great location in the Old Town Kostečná 2 (off Pařížská), Old
near Charles Bridge, there is no won- Town
der that this pub is very popular. In- Daily 7pm-2am
terestingly, it is not a traditional Irish www.bugsysbar.cz
pub, but it is a mix between Irish and
Cuban. As a result, O’Che’s brings in a CAFFREY‘S IRISH BAR €€
wide and varied clientele who come Here you will find a casual atmos-
for the sports, the cocktails and the phere and full menu on Old Town
beer. O’Che’s also sports an impres- Square. Guinness, Kilkenny and Bul-
sive number of beers on tap, as well mer’s are all available. If you can, try
as a cocktail of the week - and on going in the summer when the bar
Thursdays all cocktails are half-price. will open a terrace facing the Old
There are also three televisions and Town Square. You will not want to
one large projection screen, receiving miss having a great drink in such a
such channels as Sky Sports, ESPN, great location.
BBC and more. Old Town Square 10
Liliová 14, Old Town Daily 9am-2am
Daily 10am until 1am www.caffreys.cz
www.oches.com
AMERICAN BAR €€½
BUGSY‘S BAR €€½ This classic-style bar housed in the
An old reliable place, where trendy Art Nouveau Municipal House is one
and hip crowds gather every night, of the oldest in town. Drinks are
it shakes, stirs and tosses the best poured by true experts. The bar was
cocktails in town. Their drink list is decorated with colored drawings by
about the length of The Great Gatsby M. Ales in the period 1910–1911.
70
Republic Sq. 5, New Town
Daily 11:30am-11pm
www.americkybar.cz CZECH BEER
The love of beer is one of
DOUBLE TROUBLE CLUB €€ several characteristics that the
This is a bar and club with small Czechs share with the British.
party atmosphere and huge cocktail Czech beer tends to be more
list. No one is going to be shocked by full-bodied and more bitter
people dancing on tables or seats, or than foreign brews, and always
even on the bar. Actually, this is the arouses the desire for more. The
norm here. most famous beers are Pilsener
Melantrichova 17, Prague 1 Urquell and Gambrinus from
Daily 8pm-4am (Fri-Sat till 5am) Plzeň (Pilsen), Budvar from
Cuba Libre CZK 95, Mojito CZK 140 České Budějovice (Budweis),
www.doubletrouble.cz Staropramen and Krušovice.

AL CAPONE’S €
Small and cozy cocktail bar in the
heart of the city. Low prices with fun
guaranteed - all that makes it a good CZECH SPIRITS
choice. If you prefer spirits, all the well-
Bartolomějská 3, Old Town known ones are available, the
Mon-Thr 5pm-2am, Fri 6pm-3am, most popular amongst Czech
Sat & Sun 6pm-midnight people being vodka followed by
rum and fernet. Fernet is a dark
BOMBAY COCKTAIL BAR €€ herbal bitter drink. Becherovka
Only a few steps from Old Town is another herbal spirit, origi-
Square you can find this busy, popu- nally from the Bohemian spa
lar music bar. It is quite small with town of Karlovy Vary. Another
a tiny dance floor. Regardless of its spirit you may come across is
size, it has a good atmosphere and ‘borovička’ (a juniper-flavoured
the best cocktails in town – guaran- spirit with the influence of an
teed. This bar attracts mainly inter- Italian grappa) and ‘myslivec’. If
national travellers. you will be invited to someone’s
Dlouhá 13, Old Town home you might be offered
Sun-Wen 7pm-4am, Thr 7pm-5am, ‘slivovice’ which is mostly home-
Fri-Sat 7pm-6am made brandy made from plums.
www.bombay-bar.cz
 71
Entertainment and Nightlife
Entertainment
and Nightlife

N o matter where you turn in this city, there is


always something going on to catch the imagi-
nation. From classical concerts in grand buildings
to smooth jazz in smoky bars, and from pumping
nightclubs through to traditional old pubs, every-
one will find something that they love in Prague.

Cheap drinks, good performances, ized by the use of black box theatre
and liberal prostitution laws all pull augmented by black light illusion.
in the crowds. Or opt for a more re- Not only is the city renowned for
laxed evening with a trip to a thea- producing some of history’s great
tre, art-house cinema or jazz club. composers, including Antonin Dvořák
Entertainment also takes the shape and Bedřich Smetana, but it also at-
of art museums and galleries, ope- tracted great composers from over-
ras and orchestras, arena concerts, seas, like Mozart, who premiered Don
with a calendar year jam-packed Giovanni in the city in 1787.
with festivals. Prague‘s theatre and concert ven-
Prague has a long musical tradition ues are all centrally located in the Old
which can provide a great opportu- Town and New Town, and the same
nity to enjoy a classic concert, either is true for most small and medium-
at a Baroque palace, summer castle scale jazz and rock venues. Žižkov has
garden or acoustic church. Some more late-night pubs and bars and
plays are performed in English, and Holešovice is good for nightlife, offer-
for much other entertainment knowl- ing several of the city‘s newest clubs
edge of Czech isn’t a barrier at all. and venues. Wenceslas Square and
For example, Black light theatre is a side-streets like Ve Smečkách are the
non-verbal performance character- centre of Prague‘s red light district.
 73
Entertainment and Nightlife

Museums Alfons Mucha (1860-1939) can be found


SPECULUM ALCHEMIAE in the Baroque Kaunický Palace. A stun-
It’s a fascinating, magical and spell- ning collection of over 100 exhibits in-
binding experience. Watch the rev- cludes Mucha‘s trademark Slavic maid-
elation from late medieval to early ens with flowing hair and piercing blue
modern times, when science and eyes, bearing symbolic garlands and
mysticism were closely linked. linden boughs; and paintings, photo-
Haštalská 1, Old Town graphs, charcoal drawings, pastels,
Mon-Sun 10am-6pm lithographs and personal memorabilia.
Adult/child CZK 200/70 Kaunický palác, Panská 7, New
www.alchemiae.cz Town
Daily 10am until 6pm
PRAGUE WAX MUSEUM Adult/discounted CZK 240/160
There are over 60 wax figures of per- www.mucha.cz
sonalities from Czech and world his-
tory, politics, culture and sport. At the KAREL ZEMAN MUSEUM
same location from April 2014, there The museum is dedicated to the life’s
is an exhibition of Madame Tussauds, work of the world-renowned film
which is actually much better than maker Karel Zeman and his cinematic
the Prague Wax collection, and is in- special effects, which made Czech cin-
cluded in the ticket price. ematography world-famous, and influ-
Celetná 6, Old Town enced a generation of filmmakers. It al-
Daily 10am-9pm lows visitors to participate directly – to
www.waxmuseumprague.cz try out with their own photo and video
cameras, selected special-effect tech-
MUSEUM OF COMMUNISM niques that Zeman used in his films.
Permanent exhibition: Dreams, Re- Saská 3, Lesser Town
ality and Nightmares – depicts the www.muzeumkarlazemana.cz
communist regime in Czechoslovakia.
Na Příkopě 10, Savarin Palace LOBKOWICZ PALACE
Daily 9am–9pm Built in 1570, this palace houses an
Adult/discounted CZK 190/150 exquisite collection of Czech history
www.muzeumkomunismu.cz and old master paintings by Canaletto,
Brueghel, Bellotto, Cranach, Rubens,
MUCHA MUSEUM Velázquez and others. You can admire
This very popular museum dedicated one of the most important collections
to the life and work of the world- of arms in Central Europe and original
acclaimed Czech Art Nouveau artist manuscripts by Mozart and Beethoven.
74
Jiřská 3, Prague Castle
Daily 10am-6pm
Adult/discounted CZK 275/200 NATIONAL GALLERY ADMISSION
www.lobkowicz.cz Admission to all six permanent
exhibitions of the National
Galleries Gallery in Prague is CZK 300.
Prague is filled with numerous amaz- Free entry for children and
ing art galleries, which are often youth under 18 years and for
forgotten by tourists. The National students under 26 years.
Gallery comprises many buildings
around Prague and is famous world-
wide for its collections. Europe. Among the highlights are
works by artists: the Master of the
PRAGUE CASTLE GALLERY Vyšší Brod Altar, Master of the Michle
The Picture Gallery of Prague Cas- Madonna, Master Theodoric, Master
tle (Obrazárna Pražského hradu) was of the Litoměřice Altar, Master of the
founded in 1965. Today the gallery Altar of the Knights of the Cross.
houses paintings from the 16th to the U Milosrdných, Josefov
18th centuries. The highlights of the Tue-Sun 10am-6pm
gallery are: Guido Reni‘s The Centaur Adult/discounted CZK 150/80
Nessus Abducting Deianeira, Titian‘s www.ngprague.cz
The Toilet of a Young Lady, and Rubens‘
The Assembly of the Olympic Gods. KINSKÝ PALACE
There are also sculptures and paintings This palace hosts permanent collec-
by Czech baroque artists and many of tion with the title “The Art of Asia”.
Rudolf II‘s (1575-1611) best paintings. Kinský Palace was built between 1755
Prague Castle Second Courtyard and 1765 by Anselmo Lurago from de-
Daily 9am-5pm (winter until 4pm) signs by Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer. It
Adult/discounted CZK 150/80, is the most beautiful Rococo building
Family CZK 200 in Prague. In 1768 it was bought by
www.hrad.cz Rudolf Kinsky, an Imperial diplomat.
In February 1948 Klement Gottwald
ST. AGNES’ CONVENT proclaimed communist rule in Czech-
When you are in Prague’s Jewish oslovakia from the palace balcony.
Quarter, you should ensure that you Old Town Sq. 12, Old Town
see this convent. St. Agnes’ Convent Daily except Monday 10am-6pm
hosts a permanent exhibition of Me- Adult/discounted CZK 150/80
dieval Art in Bohemia and Central www.ngprague.cz
 75
Entertainment and Nightlife

Cinema all around the city. Also popular are


Prague has numerous cinemas, many classical music concerts and recitals
located in newly-built shopping held in churches and palaces. Regu-
centres, showing international films lar concerts take place on the steps
along with some Czech films. Admis- of the National Museum and during
sion is from CZK 90 to CZK 200. Hol- the summer in some of Prague‘s gar-
lywood blockbusters may be dubbed dens.
into Czech, but films are mostly The Czech Republic has produced
shown in their original language with a few famous composers, including
Czech subtitles. Dvořák, Martinů, Smetana, Janáček
Prague is not only popular with and Mahler. Mozart also liked to per-
tourists but also many interna- form in Prague because of his rela-
tional movies have been shot here, tionship to the city.
such as Mission Impossible, The Prague has four theatres where
League of Extraordinary Gentlemen, opera is performed and a few or-
Amadeus, Oliver Twist, Hellboy and chestras play, the most famous be-
many others. ing the Czech Philharmonic (Česká
filharmonie), which is located at the
CINEMA CITY €€ Rudolfinum.
This ten-screen cinema is in a great
location close to Wenceslas Square in OPERA
the Slovanský Dům shopping centre. The two major companies, the Na-
www.cinemacity.cz tional and the State, both perform
exclusively in their own theatres –
LUCERNA €€ the National Opera Company in the
It is one of the oldest cinemas in National Theatre, the State Opera
town with seating for over 500 peo- Company at the State Opera. The lat-
ple. Lucerna is located just off Wenc- ter presents popular performances
eslas Square in Lucerna passageway. of a predominantly classical Italian
www.lucerna.cz repertoire, always in the original
language with Czech and English
The Performing Arts surtitles. Tickets should be bought in
CLASSICAL MUSIC advance.
Prague has two well-established The National Opera Company has
concert halls – Dvořák Hall in the a more experimental repertoire and
Rudolfinum and Smetana Hall in most of its operas are performed in
the Municipal House – but it is pos- Czech with English surtitles. To view
sible to find classical music concerts a Czech opera, by Czech composers
76
Smetana or Dvořák, the National
Theatre is your best opportunity. A
lesser known opera company based
at the Estates Theatre performs
mainly classical, Italian operas in
the original language with English
surtitles.
Opera tickets for top-price seats
range from CZK 1000 to CZK 1300,
which makes seeing an opera in
Prague more accessible than in most State Opera
European cities.
Russian, German and French oeuvres
STATE OPERA (STÁTNÍ OPERA) (works of a composer) each season.
North of the museum, along Wilsono- At festive times, particularly leading
va and next to the former Parliament up to Christmas, the Prague State
Building, is the massive building of Opera departs from opera and bal-
the Prague State Opera. The State let to become the grand setting for
Opera was first opened in 1888 as the a series of wonderful classical music
New German Theatre (as a Prague concerts. Among the exceptional art-
German stage with the performance ists who performed here were direc-
of Wagner‘s opera, The Mastersingers tors Gustav Mahler, Richard Strauss,
of Nürnberg). Bohemian-born com- Felix Mottl, Arthur Nikisch and Felix
poser Gustav Mahler brought traffic Weingartner, as well as soloists Anna
to a standstill while conducting the Bahr-Mildenburg, Berta Lauterer-
premiere of his Seventh Symphony. Foerster, Maria Jeritza, Nellie Melba,
It is one of three important venues Karl Burian, Enrico Caruso, Benjami-
for opera in Prague, the others being no Gigli, Jan Kiepura, Richard Kubla,
the National Theatre and the Estates and Tino Pattiera. The venue is ex-
Theatre. At that time, the theatre was tremely popular and advance book-
known as one of the most beautiful ing is advisable and often essential.
German theatres in Europe, espe- Advance tickets can be purchased
cially for its rich ornate neo-Rococo through Bohemia Ticket and Ticket-
decor in the interior. pro, and range in price from CZK 100
Most State Opera performances to CZK 1150 (CZK 100 to CZK 500 for
are of Italian repertoire – those of a ballet). The doors are open 10am-
Donizetti, Rossini, Verdi and Puccini 7pm Mon-Fri, Sat 9am-1pm. Perfor-
– with the occasional inclusion of mances usually begin at 7pm.
 77
Entertainment and Nightlife

National Theatre at night

Best Theatres in Prague


THE NATIONAL THEATRE
THEATRE ETIQUETTE The most beautiful of all Czech
Dressing up for the theatre is theatres is The National Theatre in
customary, but is no longer a Prague, it became the symbol of the
strict rule. You should, however, Czech national revival period. Fund-
refrain from wearing trainers. ing for its construction was raised
When attending a classical through a nation-wide public col-
concert or opera, on the other lection. Building began in 1868 ac-
hand, you must be in formal at- cording to the plans of architect J.
tire. Whistling is not considered Zítek. However, in 1881, just as its
a positive form of applause: it construction was finally nearing its
is equivalent to booing. end, the theatre burned down. The
reconstruction took two years and
78
finally on November 18, 1883, the Na-
tional Theatre was inaugurated with Tickets and Reservations
the Czech opera Libuše composed by Even if you think you have to
Bedřich Smetana. The decoration of reserve your tickets for classical
both exterior and interior is a work music, opera, theatre or ballet,
of leading Czech artists M. Aleš, F. or even some rock concerts, you
Ženíšek, V. Hynais, J. V. Myslbek and might be fine just to buy tickets
others. Today, the National Thea- before the show (or at the theatre
tre consists of three art ensembles box office itself). But, to take
– opera, ballet and drama – which advantage of booking ahead and
are performed at three places: in having peace of mind, you will
the original building of The National find plenty of agencies that deal
Theatre, in The Estates Theatre and in with theatre, opera and concert
The Kolowrat Theatre. booking. It is common for most
Národní třída 2, New Town venues to offer discounts for stu-
The box-office is open Mon-Sun dents, children and the disabled.
10am-6pm
Tickets cost about CZK 1200 NATIONAL THEATRE BOX OFFICES
www.narodni-divadlo.cz All tickets for performances
can be bought online at www.
narodni-divadlo.cz/en/tickets or
at the below-listed box offices.
The National Theatre box of-
fice is open Mon-Sun 10am-6pm
and you can buy tickets for five
months in advance. Tickets are
available for performances of
Opera, Ballet, Drama, and Later-
na magika at the National Thea-
tre, the State Opera, the Estates
Theatre and the New Stage Thea-
tre. Tickets can also be bought 45
minutes before the beginning of
performances at the box offices
at the National Theatre historical
building, at the State Opera and
at the Estates Theatre.
National Theatre interior
 79
Entertainment and Nightlife

IMAGE THEATRE
(Black Light Theatre)
Come to the theatre where dancers
will express their unspoken emotions
and overcome the laws of physics in
front of your eyes. The intense dark-
ness of the black theatre is full of
fantasy. Music will bring the inani-
mate to life, tragedy will change into
comedy and the unbelievable will
become reality. Moreover, your im-
agination will be fully awakened.
Národní 25, Old Town
Performances starting at 8pm
Tickets cost CZK 480
www.imagetheatre.cz

ESTATES THEATRE
The Estates Theatre is the old-
est theatre in Prague, famed as the
place where Mozart conducted the Night view of the old Estates Theatre
premiere of Don Giovanni on 29 Oc-
tober 1787. Mozartissimo – a medley NATIONAL MARIONETTE THEATRE
of highlights from several of Mozart’s The National Marionette Theatre has
operas, including Don Giovanni – is a long tradition in popular entertain-
performed here several times a week ment in Prague. Puppets and cos-
in the summer, see their website for tumed actors perform classical ope-
the exact performances showing, the ras like versions of Mozart‘s famous
rest of the year sees various opera, “opera of operas”‘, Don Giovanni,
ballet and drama productions. The as well as some lighter fare like the
theatre is equipped for the hearing- enchanting story of The Magic Flute.
impaired and has wheelchair access Another interesting performance is
(wheelchair bookings can be made the Puppet Gala Performance, a mix
up to five days in advance). of puppeteers‘ finest works.
Ovocný trh 6, Old Town Žatecká 1, Old Town
You can buy tickets up to CZK Performances starting at 8pm
1200 from any National Theatre box Tickets are around CZK 600
office www.mozart.cz
80
Church Concerts BASILICA OF ST. GEORGE
If you fancy a classical concert with a (Bazilika sv. Jiří)
difference during your trip to Prague, The oldest preserved religious build-
head to your nearest church. With ing in Prague. It is only a small venue,
one of the world’s most atheist pop- but this beautiful 10th century ba-
ulations, many of the city’s churches silica located in Prague Castle, and
have been deconsecrated for alter- home to the tombs of some very
native uses, with one of the major early princes is the best place to see
ones being as venues for classical mini-ensembles playing the likes of
music. It is ideal really – an opulent Mozart and Verdi.
and atmospheric setting deliberately U sv. Jiří, Prague Castle
designed to have excellent acoustic
qualities. ST. NICHOLAS’ CHURCH LESSER TOWN
(Kostel sv. Mikuláše)
BAROQUE LIBRARY HALL St. Nicholas’ Church, created by three
(Barokní knihovní sál) generations of the Dientzenhofer
With its stunning 18th-century fres- clan, was a favourite venue of Mozart,
coes and colourful stucco work, this so you’ll find local ensembles playing
monastery library hall is one of the the maestro’s music all year round.
most charming – if, for some reason, Lesser Town Square, Lesser Town
least used – concert halls in Prague.
You are always guaranteed high qual- BASILICA OF ST. JAMES
ity here, with regular performances by (Bazilika sv. Jakuba)
the Collegium Marianum ensemble. Known as an excellent venue for
Melantrichova 971/19, Old Town organ concerts, the organ here was
built in 1709 and retains its original
CHURCH OF ST. SIMON AND ST. JUDE tone structure to this day.
(Kostel sv. Šimona a Judy) Malá Štupartská 6, Old Town
This Jewish Quarter church may be
deconsecrated, but that does not
mean the aisles cannot still be rock-
ing. With a restored organ and excel-
lent acoustics, the Prague Symphony
Orchestra regularly uses this place
for chamber concerts and recitals,
while it is also a main venue in many
of Prague’s big music festivals.
Dušní 1, Josefov Basilica of St. James
 81
Entertainment and Nightlife

Rock Clubs
Under the communist regime rock
and roll was banned, as it was con-
sidered too pro-western. Prague’s
rock scene was dominated by dis-
sident-era rock bands and highly
influential international acts, like
the Velvet Underground and the Roll-
ing Stones. But since 1989 after the
Velvet Revolution, the independent
rock and roll scene has flourished ROXY €½
and evolved here. Now the city offers Arrive at around midnight when the
many different rock venues of a good fun starts in the best club in town,
old rock and roll. Clubs such as FUTU- if funk, rock and techno is your fa-
RUM, KLUB 007 STRAHOV, BUNKR, PALÁC vourite. Drinks prices are very rea-
AKROPOLIS and ROXY usually host live sonable.
rock bands. Located at Dlouhá 33, Prague 1
Daily 7pm-5am
MUSIC BAR FUTURUM €½ www.roxy.cz
Futurum is quite a large club, having
a 500-person capacity, with a large VAGON CLUB €½
bar occupying the longest wall next With its entrance tucked away in a
to the dance floor. It is primarily a shopping arcade, Vagon is more like
rock club and because of its size, it a student union bar than a club as
is a venue for large bands to play – such, but it always has a friendly,
large in fame of course, not a band chilled-out atmosphere. There is live
with a giant drummer and yeti gui- music pretty much every night, from
tarist – to fill the large dance hall. local blues artists, through to Pink
There are 80s and 90s parties every Floyd and Led Zeppelin tribute bands
Friday and Saturday which specialise to classic Czech rock bands, includ-
in showing old video clips on a large ing regular performances by Plastic
screen. People of the Universe.
Zborovská 7, Prague 5 Národní 25, Prague 1
Mon-Thur 8pm-1am, Fri-Sat 9pm- Mon-Thur 7pm-5am,
5am, Sun 8pm-1am, concerts start Fri-Sat 7pm-6am, Sun 7pm-1am
around 9pm Admission free after 11pm
Admission start at CZK 100 otherwise CZK 100
http://futurum.musicbar.cz www.vagon.cz
82
Blues and Jazz Clubs Discos
For blues and/or jazz, some good Although Prague’s clubbing scene
performances can be caught at can’t be compared with the nightlife
U Malého Glena, near Lesser Town of London or Paris, there are some
Square. The performance area is discos in Prague which are well worth
very small with just a few tables. The a visit. RADOST FX is a club with en-
same goes for Ungelt Jazz and Blues during popularity, situated close to
Club, behind Týn Church. IP Pavlova metro. This club has many
visiting star DJs for their dance floor
UNGELT JAZZ & BLUES CLUB  €½ downstairs. Upstairs, it is a lounge
A tiny club situated in the 15th-cen- and vegetarian restaurant and cof-
tury cellar of a Renaissance building. fee shop.
A mix of blues, funk and jazz sup- If you like funk and techno, then
plied by top Czech performers. They ROXY is the best club in town, lo-
feature live shows every night. cated close to Naměstí Republiky.
Týn 2, Old Town KARLOVY LÁZNĚ is a mega club near
www.jazzungelt.cz Charles Bridge, with four dance
floors, each floor dedicated to a dif-
U MALÉHO GLENA ferent music genre. This club is es-
Although there is only a tiny stage it pecially popular among tourists.
is worth it for its electric mix of Latin DUPLEX on Wenceslas Square is
jazz, be-bop and blues. This Irish- another disco popular with for-
pub-style club hosts a wide spectrum eign teenagers and even stag-party
of local bands playing jazz and blues. stragglers. LA FABRIQUE has a couple
Karmelitská 23, Lesser Town of dance floors, and is near Wenc-
Daily 10pm-2am eslas Square also, making it another
Mon, Tue and Thu 120 CZK; Wed, good centrally-located option.
Fri and Sat 150 CZK; Sun 70 CZK. If you want to experience a more
http://malyglen.cz/ Czech atmosphere, try the club KLUB
007 STRAHOV, which is popular with
BLUES SKLEP €½ the locals. LUCERNA MUSIC CLUB on
One of the city’s newer jazz clubs. Wenceslas Square is a fairly large
A mix of blues, jazz and deep funk is club and it regularly fills to capacity.
played here. Another favourite among young peo-
Liliová 10, Prague 1 ple is M1 SECRET LOUNGE on Masná,
Daily 8pm-3am near Old Town Square. The crowd
Admission CZK 100 is generally a mix of well-off young
www.bluessklep.cz Czechs and expat students.
 83
Entertainment and Nightlife

DUPLEX €€ KARLOVY LÁZNĚ €€


Duplex is one of Prague’s most popu- Located close to Charles Bridge at
lar nightclubs with a huge dance Novotného lávka in Old Town, this
floor. It is a combination of nightclub, is another huge and very cool night
café and restaurant. During the day club. Each floor has its own style,
the 6th-floor terrace restaurant is a from chill out to hard core trance, live
great place for a coffee and to enjoy bands at ground level, dance to clas-
the views. The night offers a view sic disco on first floor (Discotheque),
overlooking the lights of Wenceslas rock to 1960s and 70s music on the
Square. second floor (Kaleidoskop), or house
Wenceslas Square 21, New Town and techno on the third floor (Para-
11pm-5am dogs).
www.duplex.cz Smetanovo nábřeží 198, Prague 1
9pm-5am
MECCA €½ CZK 150
One of the best in Prague. This is a www.karlovylazne.cz
very fashionable club (former ware-
house), featuring industrial, house Adult Clubs
and techno music to dance to. The side streets near Wenceslas
U Průhonu 3, Holešovice Square are full of strip clubs. This is
Mon-Sat 10pm-6am Prague’s small red light district.
Women admitted free until mid- The most famous and most ex-
night pensive strip clubs are GOLDFIN-
www.mecca.cz GERS, located under the Ambas-
sador Hotel (Václavské nám. 5),
RADOST FX €½ DARLING CABARET at Ve Smečkách 32
This very famous club features and K5 RELAX at Korunní 5. Almost
top local and international DJs. A all strip clubs offer private strip
café serving great veggie food and shows and even more... whatever
cheesecakes, a Moroccan lounge in you fancy.
the back for relaxation, and a down- Generally all strip clubs charge
stairs dance club with exquisite sofas entrance fees, so unless you have
and mosaic-topped tables that only a promotion leaflet with a free en-
gets going in the early hours. trance offer, expect to pay anything
Bělehradská 120, Vinohrady from CZK 200 to CZK 600. Drinks are
(close to IP Pavlova metro station) usually much more expensive com-
Club: Thr-Sat 11pm-5am pared to the ordinary pubs or night
www.radostfx.cz clubs.
84
HOT PEPPER’S €€€ Massage and Spa
This exclusive club is located next to MANDARIN ORIENTAL SPA €€€
the disco Duplex and comes with a The only spa in the world located in a
professional presentation. The all- former Renaissance chapel offering a
night party includes exotic danc- unique spiritual space to begin your
ers, a lesbian show, stage show and journey to equilibrium. You’ll need
private parties. There is free entry, half a day here for the luxury Bohe-
two-for-one beers and many other mian Ritual, but it’s well worth taking
offers. the time out of your schedule for it.
Wenceslas Square 21, New Town Nebovidská 459, Lesser Town
Daily 8pm-6am Mon-Sun 10am-8:30pm
www.hotpeppers.cz www.mandarinoriental.com/
prague/
LOTUS CLUB €€
This newly renovated club special- THAI FIT €½
izes in luxury. This gentleman’s club One of the oldest in Prague. The
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 85
Sights

Astronomical Clock
Top Sights
Prague Castle to the fabled Golem, and will take
The network of towers, churches, mu- you to what used to be a Jewish
seums, halls, gardens and palaces is ghetto in Prague.
virtually a village in itself.
Saint Vitus Cathedral
Charles Bridge Situated at the Prague Castle, and
Irrespective of whether you see positioned on the site of a tenth-
Charles Bridge on a misty morning, century Romanesque rotunda con-
or if you barge through the crowds in structed by Good King Wenceslas,
the afternoon, or if you see it at night Saint Vitus Cathedral is Prague Cas-
with its picturesque views of Prague tle’s most visited attraction.
Castle illuminated in the background,
travelling across Charles Bridge epit- Municipal House and
omises the Prague experience. Smetana Hall
The most noticeable Art Nouveau
Old Town Square and building in Prague is a cultural centre
Astronomical Clock that has an auditorium and exhibi-
In spite of the hordes of tourists, tion halls.
busy pavement cafés and rampant
commercialism, it is difficult to stop Trade Fair Palace
yourself from enjoying the specta- The starkly functional Veletržní Palác,
cle of the premier public square in constructed in 1928 to host interna-
Prague. The Astronomical Clock is tional trade events, turned into the
among the most popular sights of new venue for the National Gallery
Prague Old Town. museum of twentieth- and twenty-
first-century art.
Wenceslas Square
The top of this square has the Czech Estates Theatre
Republic national symbol – the Saint This is the oldest theatre in Prague
Wenceslas statue, designed by Mys- and well worth a visit for the fine ar-
lbek. chitecture and performances alone.
Now, this is the premier venue for
Old Jewish Quarter ‘Don Giovanni’ (the famous opera by
Small cobblestone streets are home Mozart).
 87
Sights

Neighbourhoods the Old Town is the Old Town Square,


Prague‘s showpiece main square, the
The city was historically comprised most magnificent in central Europe,
of five independent towns: Hradčany and a great place to get your bear-
(the Castle Area), Malá Strana (Lesser ings before exploring further afield.
Town), Staré Město (Old Town), Nové The Old Town is connected to the
Město (New Town), and Josefov (Jew- Malá Strana (Lesser Town) via the
ish Quarter), and these are still rel- Charles Bridge.
evant today. So if you can see how
these relate to one another, and Hradčany and Prague Castle
which side of the river each of them Prague‘s skyline is dominated by the
are on, the city suddenly becomes a vast hilltop complex of Prague Cas-
lot easier to navigate. tle in Hradčany (the district around
Prague Castle). The castle looks out
Staré Město (Old Town) over the heart of the city from the
This is Prague‘s most central area west bank of the River Vltava. There‘s
with the city’s most popular attrac- been a royal seat here for over a mil-
tions. The busy restaurants, pubs, lennium, and it continues to serve as
and shops are here. During the day, headquarters of the Czech president.
and even in the evenings, crowds It is also home to many of Prague‘s
top tourist attractions.

Malá Strana (Lesser Town)


This is Prague‘s picturesque Little
Quarter, situated below the castle,
and in many ways the city‘s most
captivating area. Its many peace-
ful, often hilly, cobbled backstreets
have changed very little since old
times. They cover a whole host of
quiet terraced gardens, as well as
the wooded Petřín Hill and spans up
of tourists fill its most-visited areas. to the Charles Bridge which connect
Yet regardless of all the commer- with the Old Town.
cial activity, there are still plenty of
small backstreets, giving the area a Josefov
lived-in feel that is rarely found in Josefov’s main attraction is the Old
European city centres. At the heart of Jewish ghetto, which remains one
88
of the most remarkable sights in
Prague. Although the warren-like
street plan of the old ghetto was de-
molished in the 1890s to make way
for streets of luxurious five-storey
mansions, six synagogues, the Jew-
ish town hall and the medieval cem-
etery still bear witness to the his-
tory. It is quite a small area spread
around the Old Town, bordering
with the River and Paris (Pařížská) Vyšehrad
Street – the most expensive area in The fortress of Vyšehrad makes for
the whole of Prague dotted with top- a perfect afternoon escape away
brand boutique shops. from the human congestion of the
city centre: its cemetery shelters the
Nové Město (New Town) remains of Bohemia‘s artistic elite;
This is the city‘s commercial and the ramparts afford superb views
business district, housing big over the river; and below the fortress
shopping malls, hotels, cinemas, there are several interesting exam-
nightclubs and fast-food restau- ples of Czech Cubist architecture.
rants. The hub of the New Town is
the long, sloping boulevard, Wenc- Smíchov and Anděl
eslas Square. This square used to Smíchov is a residential and indus-
be the horse market for this bus- trial area of Prague famous for it’s
tling working class locale. The Old Nový Smíchov shopping mall, brew-
Town, even today, is segregated ery, industrial architecture, cinemas,
from the New Town by a “moat” cosy restaurants, bars and nightlife.
(which refers to a street named Na The Staropramen Brewery is located
Příkopě). in Smíchov and is a popular place to
visit if you are a beer lover.
Vinohrady
Vinohrady is a late nineteenth-cen- Žižkov
tury residential suburb, dominated Žižkov is a grittier working-class dis-
by long streets of grandiose apart- trict with no tourist attractions, whose
ment blocks, with few sights or at- shabby, rundown streets contain
tractions around, though the area is some of the city‘s well-known pubs
quite comfortable with easy access and clubs. Today, many buildings have
to the New Town and many good res- been renovated, and the shabby feel-
taurants around. ing about the area is slowly changing.
 89
Sights

Holešovice
Tucked into a U-bend in the
River Vltava, this dense, built-
up neighbourhood dates
from the late nineteenth-
DEJVICE B
century, but for centuries was
an area of fields and mead-
ows. Still today this suburb Vítězné
of Holešovice boasts two R O P S K Á nám.
EV
huge areas of green: Letná, H
DY
MILA
overlooking the city centre,
and, to the north, Stromovka,
Prague‘s largest public park,
L
bordering the Výstaviště fun- PRAGUE CASTLE
fair and trade fair grounds.

Karlín
This is surrounded by the
HRADČANY
Vltava river and Holešovice
on the northern side, Žižkov CHARLES B
and Vítkov hill on the south-
ern side, New Town on the PETŘÍN LESSER
VLTAVA
western side, and Libeň on
the eastern side. During HILL TOWN
2002, Karlín was seriously hit
by the thousand-year flood.
Since then, it has recovered
and become a new area for
residences and businesses.

Even these days, Karlín re-
mains a rather shabby part
PLZEŇS
of Prague, with lots of cheap ANDĚL
hotels, situated close to the
Florenc bus station.
SMÍCHOV

90
U
UR
BUBENEČ AN
IE

HOLEŠOVICE
ÁK OVÉ
Y HOR S KÁ
OV
LETNÁ K OL
SO
E
JOSEFOV KARLÍN
OLD TOWN
VA
SQUARE ĚVO
KON
S BRIDGE WENCESLAS
SQUARE
ŽIŽKOV
OLD TELEVISION
TOWN VINO-
TOWER
ŽITNÁ HRADY
nám.
Míru SLEZSKÁ
DANCING
HOUSE
NEW TOWN

VYŠEHRAD V R Š O V IC K Á

 91
Sights

Prague Castle and until the reign of the Habsburg


Hradčany Empress Maria Theresa, who mod-
ernised much of the castle in the
Hradčany lies on the left bank of the neo-classical style. Several imposing
River Vltava and is dominated by the palaces dominate Hradčany Square:
Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathe- Schwarzenberg Palace, Archbishop‘s
dral. When entering Prague Castle Palace and Sternberg Palace. The
through the ornate Matthias Gate, be nearby Loreta is one of the most
prepared for an onslaught of histori- beautiful pilgrimage sites in the
cal facts and legends, not to mention Czech Republic.
a staggering variety of architectural
styles. St. Vitus Cathedral is a breath- GETTING AROUND PRAGUE CASTLE
taking example of ecclesiastical ar- The best metro stop is Malostranská
chitecture. via line A, while tram enthusiasts
The oldest surviving church in should jump onto tram line 22, get-
the castle complex is the Basilica of ting off at the Pražský hrad stop. If
St. George. Golden Lane was a dou- you are going to the castle on foot,
ble row of decrepit wooden shacks be prepared for a bit of climbing, but
you will be rewarded with views of
the colourful rooftops and the spires
of the city. You can either start your
walk from Nerudova Street just off
Lesser Town Square or via The Old
Castle Stairs from Malostranská met-
ro station.

Prague Castle (Pražský hrad)


Prague Castle looks almost like a
small town in itself. It is the largest
ancient castle complex in the world
at 570m (1870 feet) long and on aver-
age 128m (419 feet) wide. It is also the
place where the Czech kings, Holy
Roman Emperors and presidents of
the Czech Republic have had their
offices. Therefore, it is not surprising
this is the most visited tourist attrac-
St Vitus Cathedral tion in Prague.
92
Archbishop‘s Palace

It is not exactly a “classic” castle nating gargoyles easily be seen from


because portions of it were built in ground level. Inside the cathedral
different styles and it spreads out there are some very elaborate tombs,
more horizontally than vertically. But redolent of Czech history. It is worth-
inside the majestic castle, there are while climbing to the top of the bell
many sights and attractions. tower, which takes you to the highest
The main attraction is St. Vitus ca- point inside the castle. From the top,
thedral, an interesting 14th century there are fabulous views of the castle
Gothic structure adorned with fasci- and the Old Town of Prague.
 93
Sights

Prague Castle Courtyard view

Prague Castle Courtyards is a staircase that leads to represent-


THE FIRST COURTYARD is easily ac- ative rooms of the castle now used
cessed through Hradcany Square. by the Czech president.
However, this was not always the case THE SECOND COURTYARD was origi-
as at one point, the courtyard was nally created in the 16th century on
separated by a moat and could only a buried moat. Here, visitors will find
be entered by using a drawbridge. Kohl’s Fountain along with St Cross
This natural moat was actually one Chapel. In addition, most of the
of three that originally protected the northern part of the courtyard was
castle. You can enter this courtyard developed by Emperor Rudolf II. Since
by going through a gate decorated Rudolf was a great art lover, he used
with statues of fighting giants and the stables here to store much of his
guarded by two castle guards. This art by adding a second floor above
courtyard is also completely closed the stable and building grand Renais-
in by buildings. You can exit this sance halls, including the Spanish hall
courtyard into the second one by us- and the Gallery. Today, the Prague Cas-
ing the Matthias Gate which was the tle Picture Gallery is located in what
original entrance to the castle itself. used to be the stables and houses a
When going through the gate, there small portion of Rudolf’s art collection.
94
When the Gallery was being renovated,
workers came across the remains of
the first church at the castle to be
dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Dating
back to the 9th century, this church
was only the second Catholic Church
in Czech lands.
Entrance to THE THIRD COURTYARD
is gained through a passageway in
the east wing. This entire courtyard
was paved in the 1920s and now cov-
ers the remains of the original medi-
eval structures such as a church. The
most important feature here is the
Cathedral of St Vitus, known as the
largest Christian church in the Czech
Republic.
THE BASILICA OF ST. GEORGE is still St. George´s Basilica at Prague Castle
the best preserved Romanesque now serves as a concert hall
place of worship in the city. While
the basilica is a lovely sight, it does housed a room where manuscripts
contain one small blemish. That were copied.
is that the twin spires do not have THE SPANISH HALL is also a famous
the same proportions. Adam, or the spot located at Prague Castle. Build
south spire, is larger than the slim- by Rudolf II, the first floor was at one
mer north spire named Eva. Inside point the largest secular room in the
the basilica are the final resting castle. Rudolf had it constructed to
spots of numerous Czech royalties house his sculpture collection, but
including two princes whose graves today it is used as a gathering place
go all the way back to the 10th and for both political and social events.
11th centuries. Also located here are The interior of the Spanish Hall dates
numerous Romanesque murals as back to the 17th century and has
well as a Gothic statue depicting the undergone numerous renovations
Virgin Mary and Christ. The vaulting throughout the years.
still bears the Romanesque frescoes THE OLD ROYAL PALACE is located to
from the mid 13th century. The con- the south of the Cathedral of St. Vi-
vent of St. George was at one point tus, the Royal Palace is one of Prague
a center of scientific research and Castle’s oldest structures. Through-
 95
Sights

out the years, it has been the scene who were trying to make s stone of
of several history making events. wisdom which would transform or-
For example, in 1618 the so-called dinary metals into gold and make
Prague defenestration took place the owner immortal at the same
here as did the death sentence of time. One alchemist in particular
27 anti-Habsburg rebels in 1621. This fueled these legends. The Viennese
palace was not built all at one time, professor Uhde lived on Golden Lane
but rather over many centuries in around 1830 and was known for be-
three main stages. The building that ing slightly off center. He would wear
stands now is also built over an 12th a long black coat and had a long
century Romanesque palace which white beard. He was constantly try-
now forms the cellar of the current ing to develop a stone of wisdom and
palace. The most significant con- one night his lab suffered an explo-
struction took place toward the end sion and created a fire. The professor
of the 15th century when architects suffered a stroke and he died with
linked the earlier spaces and created a smile while holding a nugget of
one large space. pure gold. In later years, Golden Lane
VLADISLAV HALL is also an impor- attracted the poor and the name
tant part of Prague Castle and today Golden became more irony than
is used for important state occasions. anything else. It was said that at the
It is made of two distinctly different time, there was only one toilet and
architectural styles with Renais- an open sewer ran down the middle
sance windows and entrances, but of the lane. It was around the turn
a Gothic ceiling. This hall used to be of the 19th century that Golden Lane
called the Great Throne Hall and was was renovated and several famous
originally used for special occasions writers lived here including Franz
such as coronations, feasts and even Kafka and Nobel Prize winning poet
jousting tournaments. When Rudolf Jaroslav Seifert.
II was emperor, it was used as an art Located next to the easternmost
market. gate into Prague Castle, the LOB-
Located behind the Convent of St. KOVICZ PALACE was built after a fire
George is the GOLDEN LANE. It gets its in 1541. However, it gets its current
name from the goldsmiths that lived looks from the 17th century when it
here in the 17th century. The areas was rebuilt for the Lobkovicz family.
is not only picturesque, but is also The banquet hall is the largest and
surrounded by numerous myths and still sports the mytological paintings
legends. For example, many of the from the 17th century. On the other
legends surround the alchemists side of the palace is the Black Tower
96
which was an original part of the regarded as the most valuable paint-
fortifications and later turned into a ings in the collection: Titian‘s Toilet
debtor’s prison. of a Young Lady, Tintoretto‘ s Flagel-
THE LEDEBURG, FURSTENBERG AND lation of Christ and Rubens‘s The As-
PALFFY GARDENS are located in spots sembly of the Olympic Gods. There
that would have one point been are other major works by great art-
working vineyards, but in the 16th ists including Hans von Aachen, Do-
century, nobility began to use the menico Fetti, Bartolomeo Spranger,
same ground for terraced gardens. Paolo Veronese and Jacopo Bassano.
These three gardens were then Gallery holds temporary exhibitions,
joined together to create one large but also has a small permanent ex-
one. Created in 1784, the Furstenberg hibition of pieces from the reign of
Garden was decorated with statues Rudolph II. Czech art is represented
and classic vases. The Palffy Garden by artists of the Baroque period by
still contains a sundial painted at the Kupecký and Brandt.
top of the staircase. The Ledenburg
Garden is home to a stunning sala Belvedere—The Royal
terrena and all can be accessed from Summer Palace
the Palffy Palace and are well worth To the north of the castle fortifica-
the trip. tions and across from the deep moat
stands Belvedere Palace, a pleas-
Prague Castle Gallery ant place to relax. The palace can
The collection of Prague Castle Gal- be seen from the tram if you take a
lery, housed in the beautiful Renais- ride up to the castle. Inside the Royal
sance stables at the northern end Summer Place, there are two domed
in the second courtyard, contains Renaissance halls and a main dance
around 400 paintings and drawings hall on the first floor with a wooden
of 16th to 18th century European coffered ceiling. It is embellished
Art. These paintings have been care- with paintings representing the his-
fully selected from about 4,000 that tory of the kingdom. In the garden
are currently in the possession of in front of the palace you can see
Prague Castle. A few works have sur- the bronze Singing Fountain built in
vived from the legendary collection 1568. The fountain acquired its name
of Rudolph II, but most were lost as because of the sound it makes when
spoils of war during the 17th century, the water drops on the metal foun-
moved to Vienna or sold—either tain bowls. The palace now hosts an
to the Saxons or in the “Josephine” art gallery and occasional exhibi-
auction of 1782. The following are tions.
 97
Sights

Belvedere (Letohrádek Královny Anny)

St. Vitus Cathedral scenes from the life of Christ. The


The spires of St. Vitus Cathedral, an Coronation Chamber houses the Bo-
elegant but domineering French hemian Crown Jewels, and the Royal
Gothic structure, soar above the Crypt is where most of the Kings and
ramparts. It is the country‘s largest Queens of Bohemia have their final
church, and contains numerous side- place of rest (Charles IV, Wenceslas IV,
chapels, frescoes and tombstones, George of Poděbrady and Rudolf II).
not forgetting the nave‘s beautifully The southern entrance to the ca-
coloured stained-glass windows cre- thedral, the Golden Gate, is deco-
ated by the famous Czech Art Nou- rated with a richly gilded coloured
veau artists. It literally sparkles with mosaic representing the Last Judge-
all the finery inside. ment, dating from 1370, and it is one
The most beautiful of the cathe- of the artistic treasures found in the
dral‘s numerous side-chapels con- Castle District. It is possible to climb
tains the tomb of St Wenceslas, the the 96 m-tall tower for magnificent
‘Good King Wenceslas‘ of the Christ- views over the city and clockworks.
mas carol, which has become some- The tower‘s Sigismund Bell, made in
thing of a pilgrimage site, and shows 1549, is Bohemia‘s largest bell.
98
St. Vitus Cathedral interior
 99
Sights

St Vitus Cathedral Map

N
1 Bartoň-Dobenín Chapel

15 14
2 Schwarzenberg Chapel

16
13
3 New Archbishops Chapel
(Hora Chapel)

11
12
4 Old Treasury (Cathedral Treasury

18
17

10 m
now in Holy Rood Chapel in the
second courtyard)

24 21 20 19
5 New Sacristy

10
10
9

Altar
High
6 Wohlmut’s Choir (Organ Gallery)
7 St Sigismund’s Chapel
(Czernin Chapel)
8 Old Sacristy

Choir
(formerly St Michael’s Chapel) 8

22
23
9 St Anne’s (Nostitz Chapel)

Pulpit
10 Historical reliefs

Royal
Mausoleum
11 Statue of Cardinal Friedrich Triforium
von Schwarzenberg
7

12 Old Arcibishop’s Chapel

25
13 Chapel of St John the Baptist

South Doorway
(Pernstein Chapel)
14 Lady Chapel

26
(Trinity Chapel, Imperial Chapel) Tr an s ep t
6

15 Tomb of St Vitus
16 Reliquary Chapel
(Saxon Chapel, Sternberg Chapel)

Tower
17 Tomb of St John of Nepomuk High
27
5

18 Chapel of St John of Nepomuk


(St Adalber’s Chapel)
19 Waldstein Chapel
28
4

(Magdalene Chapel)
20 Royal Oratory (Vladislav Oratory)
29

21 Chapel of Holy Rood


Na ve
3

22 Entrance to Royal Vault


23 Monument of Count Leopold Schlick
31 30

24 Martinitz Chapel
2

(St Andrew’s Chapel)


25 St Wenceslas’s Chapel
1

(above, Crown Chamber)


26 Golden Gate
Tower

Tower
South
North

27 Hasenburg Chapel
28 Chapter Library
29 Thun Chapel
30 Chapel of Holy Sepulchre
31 St Ludmila’s Chapel (Baptistery)
West Doorway

Tickets: Free admission for the small area of the Cathedral; but a charge
is applicable for the crypt, the tower (with amazing views) and the choir.

100
fice.
EATING

SHOPPING

over the world.


Useful information

PRAGUE CASTLE TOUR


ping areas in Prague.
from souvenir shops.

COMING WITH CHILDREN?

galleries, four hours suf-


day, but without the art
Castle can take the whole
ough inspection of Prague
and the gardens. A thor-
cient Greek period to the

not enter the buildings


takes two hours if you do
The tour of Prague Castle
present, collected from all
tion of toys from the an-
features a large exhibi-
the Toy Museum, which
You might wish to visit
the most expensive shop-
aware that this is one of
Golden Lane – but be
For shopping, do not miss
which can also be bought
and possibly drinks,
bring your own snacks
A good idea might be to
of pricier restaurants.
There is a limited choice

N Lion´s Den
Old Riding School (Wine-bar)
(Exhibition Hall) St Ma
ry´s W
Hradčany
ork Prague Castle (Pražský hrad)
Hercules
Brusnice  Fountain

r
R o ya l G a

e
rden

e
Ball Game Hall

Powd
Singing

Bridg
National Arch- Spanis Deer P
Gallery h Hall
Mihulka it Fountain Belvedere
Bastion Castle
Garden Gallery Vikárka Tower
bishopˇs Restaurant Brusnice
Second Vicarsˇ Lane White 
Courtyard New Tower
Palace St Vitus´s Provost´s
Lodging St George´s Daliborka
Cathedral Convent Café Golden La
ne Tower
St George´s
Old Provost´s Square Wine Bar Old Burgrave´s
First St George
´s
yši

Hradčany Lodging Basilica e ´s Lodging


Treasury rg
Op

St Geo Lane Black


Courtyard


Na

Square Tower
Third Royal Convent for Noble Ladies Lobkowitz
Courtyard Palace Palace Bastion Old
Salm Ne Castle
w Defene- Steps
Palace Ca stration Garden
stl
eS Paradise Rampart
u tep Garden
s Music 100 m
ad Fountain
Hr Matthias Pavilion
Ke

101
Pavilion
Sights

New Castle Stairs consist of 208 steps

GETTING THERE ON FOOT you will walk up on the Old Castle


As a starting point, we recommend Stairs (Staré zámecké schody) direct-
Malostranská metro station, located ly to the castle gate. Another recom-
just below Prague Castle. From there mended option is from Lesser Town
Square via Nerudova Street—a bit
of a steep walk too. You will end up
in front of the main entrance to the
CHANGING OF THE GUARD Castle. This option is not suitable for
This is a ceremony that takes less energetic seniors.
place at the Castle every day
from 7am until 6pm (in summer GETTING THERE BY TRAM
until 8pm). The changing of the If you prefer not such a steep walk
guard at noon also includes a up the Old Castle Stairs, you can take
fanfare and a flag ceremony on tram #22 up the hill and get off at
the First Courtyard. the stop for Pražský hrad. Other tram
stops include:
102
Královský letohrádek (Belvedere): PRAGUE CASTLE ENTRANCE FEES
start with the Royal Garden, Belve- Entrance fees are required for a
dere and Ballgame Hall, then cross few selected areas, but visitors can
the Deer Moat bridge to get to the walk freely through the grounds and
Second Courtyard. The Royal Garden even into the larger portion of the
and Deer Moat are closed from No- cathedral. A collective ticket can be
vember to March. purchased at the information office.
Pohořelec: walk to the castle through Tickets are valid for two consecutive
Hradčany and you will arrive at the days. Allow a minimum of four hours
main entrance. for a visit.

PRAGUE CASTLE OPENING HOURS


During the summer season (April–Oc- — Circuit A (CZK 350)
tober), the castle complex is open daily St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal
from 6am to 10pm. Places where tick- Palace, exhibition The Story
ets are required are open from 9am to of Prague Castle, Rosenberg
5pm. Prague Castle Gardens together Palace, St. George‘s Basilica,
with the Deer Moat are open from Golden Lane with Daliborka
10am to 6pm. During the winter season Tower, Powder Tower.
(November—March), the castle com- — Circuit B (CZK 250)
plex is open daily from 6am to 10pm. St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal
Places where tickets are required are Palace, St. George‘s Basilica,
open from 9am to 4pm. Prague Castle Golden Lane with Daliborka
Gardens, including the Deer Moat and Tower. The most popular circuit.
the Riding School Terrace, are closed. — Circuit C (CZK 350)
Exhibition The Treasure of St.
Vitus Cathedral, Prague Castle
Picture Gallery.
SECURITY CHECKS — Exhibition The Story of Prague
The longest queues can be Castle (CZK 350)
expected by visitors entering — Prague Castle Picture Gallery
Prague Castle from Hradčanské (CZK 100)
Square. Almost no queues are — Exhibition The Treasure of
reported after 4pm and on St. Vitus Cathedral (CZK 300)
rainy days or by entering castle — Great South Tower with a View
via Old Castle Stairs (Staré Gallery (CZK 150)
zámecké schody). — Powder Tower (CZK 70)

 103
Sights

Loreta ganda weapon of the Counter-Refor-


mation and, following the defeat of
This remarkable place consisting of the Protestants at the Battle of the
a cloister, the Church of the Nativity, White Mountain in 1620, some 50
the Holy Hut and a clock tower with other Loreta churches were founded
a world famous chime has been a in Bohemia and Moravia. The heart
place of pilgrimage since 1626, when of the Loreta is the Santa Casa, a
it was endowed by a Bohemian no- replica of the Virgin Mary’s relocated
blewoman, Kateřina of Lobkowicz. house. Sumptuously decorated, it
The Loreta was inspired by a me- incorporates a beam and several
dieval legend. In 1278, so the story bricks from the Italian original. On
goes, the Virgin Mary’s house in Naz- the silver altar (behind a grille) is
areth was miraculously transported a small ebony statue of the Virgin
by angels to Loreto in Italy and thus Mary. The rich stucco reliefs, de-
saved from the infidel. The Marian picting scenes from the lives of the
cult became an important propa- prophets, are by Italian artists.

Loreta courtyard The Chapel of St Francis Seraphinus


104
The much larger Church of the an arresting painting of St. Starosta,
Nativity was designed by Christoph a bearded lady who prayed for facial
Dientzenhofer, and after his death hair to put off an unwanted suitor,
in 1722 was finished by his son Kil- only to be crucified by her father
ian Ignaz, with ceiling frescoes by whose plans for her wedding were
Václav Reiner and Johann Schopf. thwarted. The Loreta treasury has
Less edifying are the gruesome re- a famed collection of vestments and
mains of saints Felicissimus and other religious objects, including a
Marcia, complete with wax death diamond monstrance made in Vi-
masks. The cloisters, originally 17th enna in 1699, which glitters with 6222
century but with an upper storey precious stones.
added by Ignaz Dientzenhofer in Loretánské náměstí 7, Hradčany
the 1740s, once provided overnight Daily 9am-5pm (summer),
shelter for pilgrims. In the corner 9:30am-4pm (winter)
chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows is Adult/student CZK 150/110
 105
Sights

Strahov Monastery have played the organ in 1787, Stra-


hov Picture Gallery and the unique
Strahov monastery was not much of Strahov Library.
a success until 1143, when a group The magnificent library is located
of Premonstratensians settled here. in large halls and decorated with
The Premonstratensians are a Roman Baroque ceiling frescos. It is the
Catholic order of canons founded largest monastic library in the coun-
in 1120 by St. Norbert. They are also try with two baroque halls and is
known as the Norbertians or White more than 800 years old. The library
Canons. During communist times contains more than 200000 volumes,
the monastery was closed and many including 1500 books published be-
monks were imprisoned. Later, after fore the year 1500, along with 3000
the communist regime collapsed, manuscripts. The oldest book is the
they returned here (in 1990). The 9th-century Strahov Gospel. Other
monastery area includes the Church works include those of famous
of St. Roch, the Church of Our Lady printers such as Christoffel Plantin
of Ascension, where Mozart is said to from Antwerp.
There is the two-story high Phi-
losophy Hall dating back to 1780 and
its entire ceiling is covered with a
delightful composition entitled The
Spiritual Development of Mankind
by Franz Maulbertsch. The lobby
outside the hall contains a Cabi-
net of Curiosities which you simply
must see. This corridor takes you
to the Theology Hall (with a curved
ceiling in Baroque stucco work)
dating from 1679, built by Giovanni
Orsi. Theology Hall has it walls lined
with elaborately carved bookcases,
stacked with precious volumes and
manuscripts.
Library: 9am-noon & 1-5pm
Adult/discounted CZK 120/60
Picture Gallery:
10am-11:30am & noon-5pm
Adult/discounted CZK 120/60
106
The Amazing Strahov Library Interior
 107
Sights

Schwarzenberg Palace stino Galli in 1545-67 for Jan Popel of


Lobkowicz, one of the richest noble-
From a distance, the facade of this men in Bohemia. The ceilings inside
well preserved palace appears to be Schwarzenberg palace are decorated
clad in projecting pyramid-shaped with paintings on canvas stretched
stonework, but it is an illusion cre- over a wooden construction. The four
ated by rich black-and-white sgraffito paintings made in around 1580 depict
patterns inscribed on a flat wall. It famous antic scenes – The Judgement
is an example of the so-called Czech of Paris, The Kidnap of Helen, The Con-
Renaissance – mixing the Italian in- quer of Troy and The Escape of Aeneid.
fluences with Czech traditions. The From 1909 the palace was used by the
palace was built on the ruins of three Technical Museum, but now it belongs
buildings which were destroyed by to the National Gallery in Prague.
the great fire in 1541. The present look Hradčanské náměstí 2, Prague
was designed by Italian architect Ago- Castle
108
Hradčany / Prague Castle
 109
Sights

Old Town (Staré Město) painted shop fronts, churches and


taverns. Old Town Square, the Astro-
Old Town is steeped in history. From nomical Clock and the Old Town Hall
the 9th century onwards, merchants are the best attractions which every
from all over the world would meet visitor while walking in this district
here, at the crossroads of trade must see. Charles Bridge links Old
routes. Some of them chose to set- Town to Lesser Town.
tle here, leaving their mark on the
town‘s unique atmosphere. The Old GETTING AROUND OLD TOWN
Town is positioned on a bend in the There is basically no public transit in
River Vltava and grew up around Old Old Town as most streets are either
Town Square. The southern part of pedestrianised or banned to buses
Old Town is mainly a maze of narrow and larger vehicles, except for local
streets and arcaded courtyards that residents and taxis, so walking is the
conceal gabled houses, cheerfully most common way to get around. Tak-
ing a taxi is an option, but due to the
regular overcharging of tourists it is
not worth the trouble. It takes about
15 minutes to walk from Náměstí Re-
publiky to Staroměstská. There are
three metro stops in this area: the
most useful is Staroměstská (five
minutes’ walk from Old Town Square),
Náměstí Republiky (near Na Příkopě
street and Palladium shopping cen-
tre), and Můstek (where Wenceslas
Square meets Old Town).

Charles Bridge
The 14th-century Charles Bridge
(Karlův most) lined with Baroque
statues ranks among the most pop-
ular tourist attractions in the city.
Strolling this charming bridge, with
its impressive vistas over Prague
Castle and the Vltava River, is eve-
rybody’s favourite activity. Unfor-
Old Town Hall (Old Town Square) tunately Charles Bridge is a victim
110
of its own popularity – most of the From 9am till late, expect souvenir
time it is packed with tourists and stands and postcard sellers, as well
Czechs alike, especially during the as an endless variety of street musi-
spring and summer months. To avoid cians playing their hearts out for you
crowds and snapshotting tourists as you stroll across. You can even
blocking stunning views, you have to have your portrait drawn by carica-
either wake up early or come late. To turists, which makes a nice souvenir
experience the bridge with its most to bring back home.
romantic, quiet atmosphere, morn- The famous Charles Bridge crosses
ing is the best time to enjoy a less the River Vltava in Prague. This “sol-
crowded walk, or to take a leisurely id-land” connection made Prague
stroll across the bridge with the im- important as a trade route between
pressively-lit streets of Prague in the east and west Europe. The bridge
background at late evening. was originally called Stone Bridge or
 111
Sights

The place on Charles Bridge, where St. John of Nepomuk was thrown in the river in
the year 1393, is connected with a nice legend. Touch the brassy cross here – and
whatever you wish, it will come true!

Prague Bridge, but has been “Charles turies. Perhaps the most interesting
Bridge” since 1870. statue, and oldest, is that of St. John
King Charles IV‘s favourite archi- Nepomuk (number eight from the
tect and builder, Peter Parléř, built right as you cross towards the cas-
the present-day bridge. The initial tle). Sculptures decorating the bridge
idea was to build a functional con- date back mainly to the Baroque pe-
struction for jousting tournaments riod – from the 18th century. The most
and for many years the only deco- remarkable statues were created by
ration on the bridge was a simple Matyáš Braun and F. M. Brokoff.
crucifix. But later, the desire of the The Bridge, which is 516 metres
Catholics for ornamentation resulted (1692 feet) long, contains 16 pillars
in 30 statues being built between and three bridge towers. One of the
1600 and 1800. towers, the Old Town Bridge Tower, is
Today most of the statues are cop- considered to be the most beautiful
ies, due to damage caused by various bridge tower in Europe due to its rich
floods and catastrophes over the cen- sculptural decoration.
112
 Lesse
r Town S
quare

Charles Bridge

Old Town Square


113
Sights

STATUE OF ST. JOHN OF


NEPOMUK, CHARLES BRIDGE
In 1683 the Jesuits placed a
statue of John of Nepomuk
on Charles Bridge as part
of a campaign to create a
Bohemian Catholic martyr.
The real Jan of Nepomuk
had been an ambitious
vicar who was killed in 1393
in the power struggles be-
tween King Vaclav IV and
his archbishop. The Jesu-
its devised a more saintly
tale, claiming he died for
refusing to divulge the
queen’s confession, and
that when he was thrown
from Charles Bridge, five
stars appeared where he
drowned. When his body
was exhumed in 1719 his
tongue, which had be-
come his saintly attribute,
was found miraculously
preserved, pink and fresh.
He was made a saint in
1729 and his statue can be
found on bridges through-
out Central Europe.
Legend says that if you
rub the bronze plaque
at the base of the statue,
you will be sure to return
to Prague one day, and
countless tourists’ palms
have given the panel a
bright golden sheen.
114
Jan Hus Monument, completed in 1915 on the occasion of the 500th anniversary of
the death of Jan Hus, the Czech Hussite reformer. This massive monument domi-
nates the centre of the square

Old Town Square most notable sights here are the


The square has always been a lively Church of Our Lady before Týn and
place, today it is a popular part of the Astronomical Clock Tower. The
the town for both Czechs and visi- historic rooms of the town hall,
tors from abroad, as it offers plenty tower and Gothic chapel are open
of restaurants, pubs, shops, enter- to the public. The Jan Hus statue
tainment, galleries and museums. is the centrepiece among a variety
Its long history goes back to the 11th of surrounding historical buildings.
century when the square formed The statue was erected on 6 July
the crossroads of several long-dis- 1915 to mark the 500th anniver-
tance trade routes and served as a sary of the reformer‘s death. The
marketplace. It was known through- groundswell of supporters for his
out the whole of Europe at that time. beliefs during the 14th and 15th
While sitting at some outdoor cafés centuries eventually led to the Hus-
or strolling around, do not miss the site wars. Despite the initial outcry
view of beautiful pastel coloured at the modern style of the sculpture,
buildings of Romanesque or Gothic the statue stands as a symbol of
origin with fascinating signs. The Czech identity.
 115
Sights

View of Prague‘s red rooftops from the Old Town Hall Tower
116
The house “At the Minute”
Next to Old Town Hall, the house “At the Minute” was Franz Kafka‘s childhood home.
The Renaissance-era house has black and white designs covering the facade
 117
Sights

Astronomical Clock gather well in advance to watch this


The most popular part of the tower is performance.
the town hall clock. Prague‘s Astronom- The Prague Information Service sit-
ical Clock is one of the oldest and most uated next to the Astronomical Clock
elaborate clocks ever built. The tower provides information about concerts,
dates back to 1338, although the clock performances, and other happenings
was first installed in 1410, the clock was in the city.
rebuilt by Master Hanuš in 1490. Old Town Hall
The clock is composed of three Mon 11am-6pm, Tue-Sun 9am-6pm
main components: the astronomi-
cal dial, representing the position St. Nicholas’ Church
of the sun and moon in the sky and Though less popular than St. Nicholas’
displaying various astronomical de- Church in Lesser Town, St. Nicholas’
tails, ‘The Walk of the Apostles‘, a Church in Old Town Square deserves
clockwork hourly show of figures its place among Prague’s most appre-
of the Apostles and other moving ciated and visited places. The church
sculptures, and a calendar dial with is regularly used for religious and
medallions representing the months. classical music concerts. Not to men-
You can watch the twelve apostles tion that it has a 2,500-pipe organ.
appear every hour from 9am to 11pm
in its upper section. Huge crowds

Little Square (Malé náměstí)


This small square is surrounded
by neo-Renaissance and baroque
facades, including the sgraffito-
decorated Rott building (Hotel Rott),
and has a wrought-iron fountain at
its centre. The square links Old Town
Square with Charles Street (Karlova),
which leads to the Charles Bridge.
118
St. Nicholas’ Church on Old Town Square
 119
Sights

ing from the 16th century and an or-


nate portal with reliefs of two bears,
designed by the court architect Bon-
ifaz Wohlmut.
THE HOUSE „AT THE MINUTE“ in
Prague‘s Old Town Square is a typical
Prague Renaissance house, adorned
with much sgraffiti. The famous writer
Franz Kafka lived here with his parents
at the end of the 19th century. The
Stone Bell House house “At the Minute” was connected
with the neighbouring Pecoldovský
Do not miss exploring the streets house and “At the Cockerel” house,
surrounding Old Town Square where and it was added to the Prague Old
almost every building throws up Town City Hall complex.
some highlight. STONE BELL HOUSE, a unique city
THE OLD TOWN HALL is a curious palace with original Gothic appear-
amalgamation of buildings in dif- ance, is perhaps the most attractive
ferent architectural styles – its building in Old Town Square. Stone
earliest elements date from the Bell House hosts temporary exhibi-
14th century – which has expanded tions of contemporary art and also
as Prague grew in importance. The musical events run by the City Gal-
town hall was badly damaged in lery of Prague.
World War II and was rebuilt over If you go from the square to
many years. Its tower is 69.5m high Charles Bridge you will most likely
and worth the climb (there is a lift) go along Karlova (Charles Street) as
for splendid views. this is the most direct route. Look
Mon 11am-10pm out for the outstanding Baroque
Tue-Sun 9am-10pm Clam-Gallas Palace. Named after the
Adult/discounted 130/80 wealthy patron of the arts Václav
HOUSE AT THE TWO GOLDEN BEARS, Gallas, it was built by Johann Bern-
situated at the corner of Melant- hard Fischer of Erlach (between 1713
richova and Kožná Street, is another and 1719). There are statues made
one of them. The building was con- by Matthias Bernhard Braun and a
structed from two earlier houses theatre where Beethoven performed
in 1567. It is also one of the oldest some of his works. The palace has
houses in Prague. The house has been restored and today it houses
beautiful Renaissance arcades dat- the Municipal Archives of Prague.
120
MEETING
POINT

Old Town Square


FREE
TOUR
STOP
(second
half)


 Charles Bridge
Wencesla

121
s Square

Sights

Church of Our Lady before Týn (Kostel Matky Boží před Týnem)
This magnificent church dominates one side of Old Town Square. This Gothic-look-
ing church with twin towers has a rich Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque interior.
A beautiful entranceway decorated with scenes of Christ‘s passion and a huge
Rococo altar on the northern wall are its most striking features. To the right of the
altar there is the tomb of the Danish astronomer Tycho de Brahe, who worked at the
court of the Emperor Rudolph II. Týn church has a grand-sounding pipe organ and
is occasionally a concert venue. The entrance to the church is through the passage
from Old Town Square no. 14
122
Old Town Square from a bird‘s eye view
 123
Sights

New Town (Nové Město) Charles Square (Karlovo náměstí).


Until the time of the Hussite wars,
New Town – southwest of Old Town, a religious pilgrimage of European
with Wenceslas Square in its centre importance called “The Showing of
is now the commercial and admin- Sacraments, Imperial Coronation
istrative heart of the city. It is the Jewels and Sacred Remains” took
fourth, and last, of Prague‘s towns place here every year. This is why
which closed the medieval devel- the square was planned to cover
opment of Prague. Despite its name, such an extensive area. However, the
this quarter is relatively old. Found- present centre of New Town is defi-
ed by Charles IV in the mid-14th cen- nitely Wenceslas Square, the main
tury, the town expanded rapidly. At thoroughfare of Prague, originally
the same time the Emperor initiated used as a horse market. The majestic
the construction of numerous mon- National Museum and statue of St.
asteries, churches and squares with- Wenceslas on horseback dominate
in New Town‘s borders. The largest this long boulevard (square is not re-
enclosed square in New Town, this ally an exact description). Na Příkopě
was once the largest town square of is the street that was the traditional
medieval Europe and is now called dividing line between Old Town and
New Town, and is a good place to do
your shopping. Wenceslas Square is
also full of modern shops, restau-
rants, casinos and exchange offices.
The Dancing House, located on the
New Town embankment, is an ex-
ample of modern architecture. The
architects of this building received a
prestigious international award.

GETTING AROUND NEW TOWN


Probably the most convenient met-
ro stops for this area are Muzeum
(at top of Wenceslas Square), and
Můstek (at the bottom of Wences-
las Square) with intersections for all
lines (A, B and C). Alternatively Karlo-
vo náměstí, on line B, also lies within
New Town Hall (Charles Square) this district.
124
Wenceslas Square set fire to himself in January 1969
The south end of Na Příkopě meets in protest of the Soviet invasion
Wenceslas Square (Václavské náměstí), four months earlier. Jan Palach died
the 750-metre long and 60-metre wide three days later with 85% burns.
boulevard. It was first laid out over 800,000 people followed the fu-
600 years ago in Charles IV’s period neral.
when it was used as a horse market. Following the collapse of Commu-
Since then, the square has been a nist rule in December 1989, Václav
regular parade ground for every kind Havel and Alexander Dubček ap-
of person, organisation or political peared on the balcony of number
party known in the Czech Republic. 36 to greet their ecstatic supporters.
The square can, and has before, Palach and other victims of the re-
comfortably held 400,000 people. In gime are commemorated in a small
the upper part of the boulevard, the shrine in front of Josef Myslbek‘s
statue of St. Wenceslas on his horse equestrian statue of St. Wenceslas.
can be seen. A few metres from the Today, Wenceslas Square is a hus-
statue a plaque stands in memory tle and bustle of commerce. It re-
of those who were killed during the ally comes alive after dark, when its
communist period, including Jan restaurants, cinemas and nightclubs
Palach, a 20-year-old student, who attract tourist crowds.
 125
Sights

National Museum (closed for renovation until 2018)

The major historical sites are all stores, restaurants and shopping
within walking distance of the street centres dominate the scene, while
and are worth walking step-by step. modern art installations appear in
At the northern end of the square, the summer. However, this street
you can find the Neo-Renaissance became a real shopping centre only
National Museum. Another signifi- after the opening of shopping pas-
cant building is Koruna Palace – a sages built at the end of the 1990s.
covered shopping arcade with a stun-
ning glass dome dating from 1911.

Na Příkopě
If there is to be only one street in
Prague symbolising a shopping para-
dise, it would be Na Příkopě Street,
slanting down from Republic Square
and the Powder Tower to the north-
ern tip of Wenceslas Square. Chain- Na Příkopě
126

e
us
Ho
al
cip
ni
Mu

Wenceslas Square
 127
Sights

Municipal House labour of love, every detail of design


Prague’s most exuberant and sensu- and decoration carefully considered,
al building stands on the site of the every painting and sculpture loaded
Royal Court, seat of the Bohemian with symbolism. The mosaic above
kings from 1383 to 1483, which was the entrance, Homage to Prague, is
demolished at the end of the 19th set between sculptures represent-
century. ing the oppression and rebirth of
Between 1906 and 1912, the Mu- the Czech people, other sculptures
nicipal House was built in its place, ranged along the top of the façade
a lavish joint effort of around 30 represent history, literature, painting,
leading artists of the day, creating music and architecture.
a cultural centre that was the archi- You pass beneath a wrought-iron
tectural climax of the Czech National and stained-glass canopy into an
Revival. interior that is art nouveau right
Restored in the 1990s, after dec- down to the doorknobs (you can look
ades of neglect during the commu- around the lobby and the downstairs
nist era, the entire building was a bar for free). The restaurant and the
128
café flanking the entrance are like Chodové (medieval Bohemian border
walk-in museums of art nouveau guards) as beady-eyed Ostražitost
design. (vigilance).
Upstairs are half a dozen sump- On 28 October 1918, an independ-
tuously decorated halls and as- ent Czechoslovak Republic was de-
sembly rooms that you can visit on clared in Smetana Hall, and in No-
a guided tour (90 minutes, three or vember 1989 meetings took place
four per day), which can be booked here between the Civic Forum and
at the building’s information centre the Jakeš regime.
(through the main entrance, and The Prague Spring (Pražské jaro)
around to the left of the stairs). The music festival always opens on
first stop on the tour is Smetana Hall, 12 May, the anniversary of Smet-
Prague’s biggest concert hall, with ana’s death, with a procession from
seating for 1,200 people spread out Vyšehrad to the Municipal House fol-
beneath a glass art nouveau dome. lowed by a gala performance of his
The stage is framed by sculptures symphony Má Vlast (My Country) in
representing the Vyšehrad legend Smetana Hall.
(to the right) and Slavonic dances (to 7:30am to 11pm
the left). Adult/discounted CZK 290/240
Several impressive official apart-
ments follow, but the highlight of the
tour is the octagonal Lord Mayor’s
Hall (Primátorský sál), whose win-
dows overlook the main entrance.
Every aspect of its decoration was
designed by Alfons Mucha, who also
painted the superbly moody murals
adorning the walls and ceiling.
Above you is an allegory of Slavic
concord, with intertwined figures
representing the various Slavic
peoples watched over by the Czech
eagle. Figures from Czech history
and mythology, representing civic
virtues, occupy the spaces between
the eight arches, including Jan Hus
as Spravedlnost (justice), Jan Žižka as
Bojovnost (military prowess) and the Smetana Hall
 129
Sights

Dancing House
The Dancing House, nicknamed
‘Fred and Ginger’ is an office and
hotel building. It was built in 1997
by Croatian born Czech architect
Vlado Milunič in co-operation with
American architect Frank Gehry. It
was built on a vacant riverfront plot,
next to a building owned by Czech
playwright and former president Vá-
clav Havel, whose strong support for
avant-garde architecture was instru-
mental in getting the controversial
design approved and built. Known in
Czech as Tančící dům (‘the Dancing
House’), this building vaguely resem-
bles a pair of dancers and stands
out, but without clashing with, the
Neo-Baroque, Neo-Gothic and Art The crisply formal atmosphere is
Nouveau buildings that Prague is perfect for a special celebration.
famous for. The building’s tenants The junction where Resslova
include several multinational firms. meets the river at Rašínovo nábřeží
There is a highly-rated French res- 80. The restaurant is located on the
taurant on the roof with magnificent 7th floor
views over the Vltava river and the Daily noon-11pm
castle. French fine cuisine, with sea- Mains are reasonably priced
food and meat dishes and a few veg- (from CZK 365 to CZK 600)
etarian main courses, is on the menu. www.tancici-dum.cz

130
David Černý is a Jewish–Czech sculptor whose works can be seen in many locations
in Prague. His works tend to be quite controversial
 131
Sights

Old Jewish Quarter PINKAS SYNAGOGUE – this is the gate-


Josefov way to the Jewish cemetery. Under
the Communist regime, the building
The Jewish Quarter is a small area was closed and all the names of hol-
known as Josefov which contains ocaust victims inscribed on the walls
the remains of Prague‘s former Jew- were erased. Later, all 77,927 names
ish ghetto between Old Town Square were restored and now they cover
and the River Vltava. Josefov was the entire interior.
named after the emperor Josef II, Široká 3, Josefov
whose reforms helped to ease liv-
ing conditions for the Jewish popu- HIGH SYNAGOGUE – so-called because
lation. There are two figures here its prayer hall is closed to the public.
synonymous with this part of the Located directly across from the Old-
city, Franz Kafka (1883–1924) and the New Synagogue.
mystical homunculus Golem created
by Jehuda ben Bezalel, also known as KLAUS SYNAGOGUE AND CEREMONIAL
Rabi Löw. HALL – both host exhibitions on Jewish
traditions and customs such as birth,
GETTING AROUND JOSEFOV circumcision, bar mitzvah and marriage.
The Jewish Quarter is quite a heavily U starého hřbitova 3a, Josefov
visited location in Prague, especially
in peak tourist season, when its tiny MAISEL SYNAGOGUE – history of Jews in
streets are packed with visitors. The Bohemia and Moravia.
area is quite small and very compact, Maiselova 10, Josefov
so a fairly thorough tour should take
less than half a day. Due to the prox- THE SPANISH SYNAGOGUE – the history
imity to Old Town Square, the best of Jews from emancipation to the
way to visit is on foot. present.
Vězeňská 1, Josefov
Prague Ghetto
THE OLD JEWISH CEMETERY – with the JUBILEE SYNAGOGUE – situated outside
tomb of Rabbi Löw. the Jewish Quarter, close to the main
Entrance on Široká 3 railway station. The Jubilee Syna-
gogue was built in 1905-06 in Art Nou-
OLD-NEW SYNAGOGUE – the early Goth- veau and pseudo-Moorish styles as
ic 13th-century building, and the old- compensation for demolished syna-
est synagogue in Europe. gogues in the Jewish Quarter.
Červená 2, Josefov Jeruzalémská 7, New Town
132
Spanish Synagogue

The Old Jewish Cemetery Jubilee Synagogue

Mysterious Jewish Quarter said that in the attic of the Old-New


Tales, legends and other such myster- Synagogue, the Golem is hidden – a
ies have been woven around a good mighty being made of clay that was,
many places in Prague. One of the according to legend, created by Rabbi
most interesting is about Golem. It is Löw to protect the Jewish Quarter. The
Golem is inextricably linked to the
mysterious atmosphere of old Prague.

KOSHER FOOD VISITOR CENTER AND TICKET SALES:


The Dinitz Kosher Restaurant Maiselova 15 (you can also hire
is very low-key and the most a guide and buy refreshments here)
affordable kosher restaurant
within the Jewish Quarter. MUSEUM ONLY:
Bílkova 12 Adult/discounted CZK 330/220;
The more elaborate King Solo- Entrance fee for all sites: Adult/dis-
mon Restaurant represents a counted CZK 500/340
better deal for Shabbat cuisine. 9am-6pm Sun-Fri Apr-Oct, 9am-
Široká 8 4:30pm Sun-Fri Nov-Mar, closed on
Jewish holidays and on Saturdays
 133
Sights

Franz Kafka Kafka was a Czech Jew who wrote


Even if you have never heard about in German and was a citizen of the
Franz Kafka and have never read Austro-Hungarian Empire at birth,
one of his books (novels The Trial, and a citizen of the newly-formed
America and The Castle have been nation of Czechoslovakia. He was
translated into several languages), born in Prague on July 3, 1883, right
you will surely notice his presence above the Batalion Schnapps bar on
while visiting Prague. T-shirts, post- the corner of Maiselova and Kaprova.
ers and mugs carrying the writer’s Kafka spent most of his life living in
image are available at every souvenir and around Josefov (Prague’s Jew-
shop across Prague. ish Quarter), studying at a German
school on Old Town Square and work-
ing as an accident insurance clerk,
until he was forced to retire through
ill health in 1922. He died of tubercu-
losis at the age of 40 in a sanatorium
just outside Vienna two years later,
but his body was returned for burial
in Prague‘s New Jewish Cemetery
(Olšanské cemetery).
To learn more about Kafka, visit
the exposition dedicated to his life
at Cihelná 2b. Open daily 10am-6pm.
Entrance fee: Adult/discounted CZK
200/120.
www.kafkamuseum.cz

Pařížská Street
Pařížská Street, the ultimate bour-
geois avenue, thanks to its location,
has always been a street with a high
concentration of luxurious shops,
swanky cafés, restaurants and bars.
This street runs off Old Town Square
to the River Vltava and bisects the
Jewish Quarter. It is an easy walk
from some of the best five-star ho-
Franz Kafka Statue tels in Prague.
134
Agnes of Bohemia tending the sick by the Bohemian Master from 1482

St. Agnes Convent queens was unearthed, including


The convent was founded in 1234 the tomb of King Wenceslas I in the
by Agnes, sister of King Wenceslas I. Church of St Francis (which is now
It was completed at the end of the used as a concert venue). Today the
14th century but the convent was convent house serves as a division
eventually dissolved in 1782. An am- of The National Gallery that exhibits
bitious restoration programme was excellent medieval art from Bohe-
undertaken in the 1990s. The most mia and Central Europe (1200-1550).
remarkable building is the Church Among the highlights are works by
of the Holy Saviour, an exceptional various artists: the Master of the
example of early Gothic architecture. Vyšší Brod Altar, Master of the Michle
Look out for the capitals, which are Madonna, Master Theodoric, Master
highly decorated with reliefs show- of the Litoměřice Altar, Master of the
ing the rulers of the Přemyslid dy- Altar of the Knights of the Cross.
nasty. During restoration, the burial U Milosrdných 17, Josefov
place of some of these kings and Tue-Sun 10am-6pm
 135
Sights

Ceremonial Hall – permanent exhibition of the Jewish Museum


136
Classic River Boat

207

5,8,24,26,5
1,54,56

Josefov / Jewish Quarter



Mee
tin
Poin g
t

137
Municipal House
Sights

Petřín Hill orchard from which the fruit can be


freely picked from the trees. Much of
Only a stone’s throw away from the stone used in building the ma-
Prague Castle is Petřín Hill, perfect jor sights in Prague was quarried out
for a summer walk away from the of Petřín. However, today this is not
bustle of tourists. Part of the hillside noticeable beneath the trees and
is set aside for an apple and a pear gardens. The observation tower and
a manicured garden dominate the
summit, and halfway down is the fa-
mous restaurant Nebozízek – where
FUNICULAR RAILWAY you can enjoy a meal with a perfect
TO PETŘÍN HILL view of Prague. Do not forget the
Just opposite Újezd tram stop hall of mirrors for a new and varied
(trams 12, 22) in Lesser Town, perspective of yourself – The Petřín
the railway runs daily from Hill Maze. Originally a pavilion of the
9am to 11:30pm (11:20pm from Czech Tourist Club at the 1891 Jubilee
November to March) in 10-15 Exhibition, it was later transferred to
min. intervals. The charming Petřín Hill and turned into a hall of
Victorian Funicular is very mirrors. It is a favourite spot for chil-
popular. dren. The hill is 327 metres high. For
those less energetic, a funicular rail-
138
way will save you trouble of a climb Petřin to Strahov Walk
(for the price of a normal tram ticket). Take the funicular railway up to
Petřín Hill is also easily accessible on Prague‘s best picnic spot, Petřín Hill,
foot from Hradčany and Strahov. which is also very popular with jog-
gers, dog-walkers, lovers and fami-
Petřín Look-Out Tower lies. From here you have magnificent
This iron tower, 60m (196 feet) tall, vistas across the “city of 100 spires”,
was built in 1891 by F. Prášil for the and the panorama gets better as you
Jubilee Exhibition as a copy of the follow the trail down and around to
Eiffel Tower in Paris. It has 299 steps Strahov Monastery.
that lead up to the top platform, or
if you feel tired you might use the
comfortable lift instead.

Hall of Mirrors
Fun for all located on Petřín Hill. This
pavilion was built in 1891 for the
Jubilee Exhibition, and later trans-
ferred to Petřín. There is a dioramic
picture commemorating the battle
of students with Swedes on Charles
Bridge in 1648 and the subsequently
constructed hall of mirrors.

Nebozízek Restaurant
The food is not that great but the
views from the terrace are spectacular.
The restaurant is often full, so to en-
sure seating reserve a table. Petřínské
sady and Lesser Town can be reached
from the funicular‘s second stop.
www.nebozizek.cz

Vrtba Garden
Vrtba Garden is situated on the slope n Petřín Look-Out Tower
of Petřín Hill and is one of the most
precious and beautiful of Prague‘s
Baroque gardens.
 139
Sights

Church of Our Lady Victorious


This church is world-famous thanks
to the Prague Bambino – Infant Je-
sus wax figure (of Spanish origin),
which was presented to the church
by Polyxena of Lobkowicz (1628). The
Church of Our Lady Victorious, built
in 1613, has on its central altar a
47cm-tall waxwork figure of the baby
Jesus. Known as the Infant Jesus of
Prague (Pražské Jezulátko), it is said
to have protected Prague from the
plague and from the destruction of
the Thirty-Year War. An 18th century
German prior, ES Stephano, wrote
about the miracles, kicking off what
eventually became a worldwide
cult, today the statue is visited by a
steady stream of pilgrims, especially
from Italy, Spain and Latin America.
It was traditional to dress the figure Infant Jesus
in beautiful robes and over the years
various benefactors have donated a religious calendar. At the back of
richly embroidered dresses. Today the church is the museum, display-
the infant’s wardrobe consists of ing a selection of the frocks used to
more than 70 costumes donated dress the infant. Shops in the street
from all over the world, these are nearby sell copies of the wax figure.
changed regularly in accordance with Looking at all this, you cannot help
thinking about the Second Com-
mandment (“Thou shalt not make
unto thee any graven image…”) and
the objectives of the Reformation.
Jan Hus must be turning in his grave.
Karmelitská 9, Lesser Town
Church 8:30am-7pm Mon-Sat &
8:30am-8pm Sun, museum 9:30am-
5:30pm Mon-Sat & 1-6pm Sun
Admission free
140
 Prague Castle Church of Our
Lady Victorious

Petřin
Look-Out
Tower

Petřín Hill
12,20,22,57

l
Pe třin Hil
way to
lar Rail
Funicu


Hladová zeď (Hunger Wall)

141
Sights

Lesser Town cafés, restaurants, shops and quaint,


tiny cottages, crumbling with age.
Lying below the castle and reaching
across to the banks of the Vltava is GETTING AROUND LESSER TOWN
Lesser Town (Malá Strana). It is cer- The metro‘s A-line Malostranská sta-
tainly no less of a beautiful town, it is tion will take you to Lesser Town, it
called Lesser Town because tradition- is the most central stop. But there
ally it was the smaller half of Prague, is no better way to arrive in Lesser
the half in which the king lived, and Town than after a nice downhill walk
the half away from the bustle of the from the castle or a popular stroll
markets on the other side. Today from Old Town across Charles Bridge,
Lesser Town is a maze of narrow cob- along Mostecká street leading to
blestoned streets, winding their way Lesser Town Square. Alternatively
between historical monuments – in- take tram 22 from Národní třída (just
cluding the beautiful Baroque St. Nich- next to the National Theatre) and
olas’ Church. Pleasant hours can be in two stops get off just below the
spent strolling among the multitude of Petřín funicular railway to Petřín Hill.
142
St. Nicholas’ Church
This exquisite Baroque church was
built between 1704 and 1755 by Kil-
ian Dientzenhofer. It is one of the
most beautiful Baroque churches in
Europe. The splendid dome is 70m
high. The 79m-tall belfry is directly
connected with the church’s massive
dome. The belfry, with its great pano-
ramic view, was - unlike the church
- completed in Rococo form over 1751-
1756 by Anselmo Lurago. The Rococo
pulpit with angels and cherubs was
made by Peter and Richard Prach-
ner in 1765. Inside is a Baroque or-
gan from 1746 which was played by
Mozart when he was in Prague. Four
years later it was played at a funeral
mass in his memory. St. Nicholas’
Church is also a very popular concert
venue during the summer. The belfry of the St. Nicolas‘
Lesser Town Square 38 Church is open to the public and
Daily 9am-5pm (on Tue till 6pm) offers a beautiful view of the
Mar-Oct, 9am-4pm Nov-Feb Lesser Town.
CZK 70

Cupola of St. Nicholas Church Baroque organ


 143
Sights

The Three Fiddles – one of many beautiful house signs on Nerudova Street

Nerudova Street The Red Eagle, The Golden Horse-


If you head west from Lesser Town shoe, The Green Lobster or The White
Square to Prague Castle you will pass Swan. Many houses are now used as
through the beautifully picturesque cafés, wine bars and pubs. Several
Nerudova Street named after Jan large Baroque palaces are also situ-
Neruda. He was a famous Czech poet ated in this street, for example, Thun
who lived at the house called ‘At the Palace (the Italian Embassy) and
Two Suns‘ (which is no.47). All the Morzin Palace (the Romanian Em-
houses in Prague used to be marked bassy). The façade of Morzin Palace
by house signs until 1770 when a new is decorated with two huge statues
way of numbering was introduced. of Moors holding a round balcony.
The houses in Nerudova Street bear Another impressive facade belongs
an extraordinary selection of heral- to the Theatine Church of Our Lady.
dic beasts and house signs. Climbing The Order of Theatines was founded
up this steep street you will notice during counter-reformation times.
144
 Prague Castle

,57
2
0,2
,2
12

Charles Bridge 


145
Sights

Lennon Wall portrait of Lennon is long lost under


Lennon Wall was an ordinary wall layers of spray paint. It is located
in Prague, but since John Lennon‘s at Velkopřevorské náměstí (Grand
death Prague‘s youth have covered Priory Square), Lesser Town.
it with John Lennon inspired graffiti
and Beatles lyrics.
In 1988 the wall was a source of
irritation for a communist regime of
Gustav Husák. Young Czechs would
write grievances on the wall and a
government report written about it
at this time led to a clash between
hundreds of students and security
police on nearby Charles Bridge.
The text on the wall is continu- The Memorial to the victims of Commu-
ously changing and the original nism located at the base of Petřín Hill
146
Žižkov Television Tower
The Žižkov TV Tower is Prague’s con-
troversial structure, standing at two
hundred and sixteen metres tall. Up
close, it is an imposing, post-modern
style of architectural design charac-
terized by the disturbing image of
numerous giant baby statues making
their way up its sides, crafted by the
designer David Černý - but amongst
locals it is much disliked.
Started in the 1970s for the pur-
pose of jamming Western German
TV transmissions, this tower has only
been completely operational since
the 1990s. During the process of
building it though, the Communists
decided to destroy part of a local
Jewish graveyard which had featured
in the locale from 1787 to 1891; in the
north-west of this tower, however, a
smaller part of this graveyard still
survives.
The three pods that are situated
directly underneath the tower’s top
decks are utilized for apparatus re-
lating to the structure’s main pur-
pose, and are not accessible to the
general public. The six pods that are
left are accessible to tourists, and
the tallest of these has observation
areas at one hundred metres, offer-
ing breathtaking views of Prague and Observation deck and upper deck
its surrounding areas. restaurant 8pm-midnight;
Getting there: Catch the metro Garden restaurant 9am-midnight;
line A to Jiřího z Poděbrad, then walk Café 8am-5pm
north-east for two blocks – it is hard Adult/discounted CZK 180/CZK 120
not to see it. www.towerpark.cz
 147
Sights

Vyšehrad in Prague. A small fee is required for


Vyšehrad, sometimes referred to as this viewing pleasure.
“Prague‘s second castle”, is another The Rotunda of St. Martin, dating
of the Czech Republic‘s fine castles. from the 11th century, can be viewed a
It was built in the 10th century on a short distance from the church towards
hill over the River Vltava and within Vyšehrad metro station. It is one of the
the castle grounds is the Church original rotundas of the city.
of St. Paul and St. Peter, as well as
Vyšehrad Cemetery, containing the
remains of many famous people
from Czech history. HOW TO GET TO VYŠEHRAD?
The castle‘s centrepiece is the It is easily and quickly reach-
church, whose blackened shape able from the city centre on
stands grandly upon the hill over- metro line C to Vyšehrad (two
looking the River Vltava. stations from the National Mu-
Every inch of the interior is im- seum). From there, it is about a
maculately covered with decorations 10-minute walk to Vyšehrad’s
much like those on the pages of an main gate. The tour of the com-
illustrated manuscript, thus making plex takes about 2 to 3 hours.
it one of the most beautiful interiors
148
er
a Riv
Vltav

Vyšehrad
 149
Tours and Excursions Best Deals
Tours and Excursions

O ur tours section will guide you through the


city’s historical quarters, so rich in history to
the most important sights of the New Town. You
will learn about highlights on both banks of the
Vltava. We also offer most popular recommenda-
tions for day trips outside of Prague.

Prague Walking Tours tunity to see Prague’s architectural


gems from a different angle, while
Taking a walking tour around the city enjoying lunch or dinner on the
of Prague is a great opportunity to boat. Most lunch cruises depart at
see the sights and to get to know the noon, and dinner cruises at 6:40pm.
city. It can also lead to lots of hidden Whether or not you are on a budget,
places that you may not otherwise consider taking our free tour that will
have found without a guide. Prague show you the city‘s main highlights. It
walking tours are an excellent way is a great introduction to Prague and
to become acquainted with the city‘s will also give you a great orientation
rich history and architectural beauty, for your own further exploration.
especially if you are visiting Prague If you are looking for something
for the first time. more flexible and private, we can ar-
Most of our walking tours leave daily range a professional English-speak-
from Old Town Square in the city ing guide for you. The tour guide can
centre. If you would rather not walk, even tailor this walk to your special
we also offer some sightseeing tours needs, for example recommend a
where our coach will pick you up place where to stop for lunch, includ-
from your hotel and take you around ing a river cruise or tram ride if you
the city in comfort. are tired walking, etc. The guide can
Taking a leisurely cruise along the pick you up at your hotel, or you can
Vltava can also be a great oppor- arrange to meet anywhere in the city.
 151
Tours and Excursions Best Deals

4-hour Free Prague Walking Tour


The tour starts on Old Town Square
with a general introduction to
Prague where we will admire the
impressive composition of the old
buildings and churches, we also
become acquainted with the life of
the Czech reformer Jan Hus.
Crooked lanes lead us back
around other keyholes into Prague’s
past: Mozart‘s Don Giovanni in the
Estates Theatre, Karolinum –Charles
University since 1348, the cubist
house of the Black Madonna and
the medieval courtyard Ungelt.
Next we continue on to visit the TOUR DETAILS
Jewish Quarter that leads us back to — Tour date/time: Daily at
Prague’s tragic history. You discover 11:00am. Guided tour spoken
the destiny of Prague’s Jews, living only in English.
behind the wall of the former ghetto. — Price: Free, if you use the
The Old-New Synagogue, the Old transfer from the airport,
Jewish Cemetery, the Jewish Museum booked through Prague Airport
and follow in the footsteps of the fa- Transfers, our chauffeur will
mous Jewish writer Franz Kafka. automatically give you a
After this, we will have a 30-min- “transport voucher”. All you
ute break from 12:45pm to 1:15pm at need to do is to bring your
Mariánské Square. After the break, voucher and show it to our
you can continue the tour or come tour guide.
back another day for the second — Booking information: No
half. pre-booking is necessary. Just
The second half starts at the show up 10 minutes prior to
beautiful baroque library of Kle- the tour start time.
mentinum. We cross Charles Bridge — Where does the tour finish?
coming into Lesser Town Square, the It finishes at Prague Castle.
highlight of which is the huge St. Our tour guide will gladly
Nicholas’ Church. navigate you back to the city
After a relaxing visit to the church, centre.
we climb 200 steps leading to
152
Hradčanské Square and Prague Cas- How Do I Claim My Free
tle, the largest castle complex in Eu- Walking Tour?
rope. This “city within a city” hides When you use our airport transfer
Schwarzenberg Palace, the Arch- service your driver will automatically
bishop‘s Palace, the Old Royal Pal- give you what we call a ‘transport
ace, the Basilica of St. George... and voucher‘. This is your proof of pur-
the greatest architectural treasure chase of your Prague airport transfer;
of all – St. Vitus Cathedral. The walk all you need to do then is bring your
finishes next to the Old Royal Palace voucher and show it to the tour guide
with a charming view of Prague, the to join the walking tour. If you need
city of a hundred spires. It is really transport to the meeting point, we
easy to walk, simple to understand are happy to book this for you if you
and great to enjoy! contact us in advance.
 153
Tours and Excursions Best Deals

6-hour Superior Tour of Prague top of a picturesque hill, Lesser Town,


Full day in Prague on foot, by river St.Nicholas’ Church – a Baroque jew-
boat and by tram! el, Charles Bridge, the National Thea-
This walk is a unique combination of tre... Get unsurpassed views of all of
the very best aspects of each of our Prague‘s treasures from the river!
walks. Moving from the magical little After the cruise we come to the
web of alleys in Old Town past the im- Castle, the real heart of Prague.
portant milestones in the history of the Your guide takes you through all the
Jewish Quarter and Wenceslas Square courtyards, shows you the Old Royal
in New Town, the site of astonishing Palace, the Basilica of St. George, the
protests and uprisings, we come to the Royal Garden and the architectural
river. Here we can enjoy a comfortable gem of St.Vitus Cathedral. On this
cruise that shows us the most romantic tour with a great guide, you can peer
spots of Prague, such as Lesser Town or into the past from the 21st century.
Prague Castle, from the most unusual
angles. Then we board the tram to as-
cend the hill to Prague Castle. TOUR DETAILS
As we stroll around the Jewish — Tour date/time: Daily starting
Ghetto we can look into Jewish tra- at 11am.
ditions and history. The ghetto is — Price: CZK 1500 per person
formed of small houses and narrow — Includes: lunch, drinks, canal
alleys and attracts tourists with its cruise and a tram ride and
unique monuments – the Old Jewish optional pickup from your
Cemetery, the Old-New Synagogue hotel—free of charge.
(still in use), and the Jewish Museum. — SSpecial
pecial Offer: Enjoy a 34%
We admire the rich history of the discount and pay only CZK 990
Old Town with the marvellous Church
of St. James, the medieval customs
yard Ungelt, the Estates Theatre
where Mozart´s Don Giovanni was
introduced to the world, and Charles ADVANCED BOOKING
University, the oldest university in Except for our free tour, we
Central Europe. On Wenceslas Square strongly recommend making
we see where the Velvet Revolution a booking. Please call us
occurred in 1989. on +420 222 554 211
After a typical Czech lunch served or book online at www.
in a nice restaurant we take our prague-airport-transfers.co.uk
cruise. Prague Castle, crowning the
154
Where, When and How to Join Us and walk another five minutes (to
the right in relation to Prague Cas-
WALKS: MEETING POINT tle) until you see Classic River boat.
The meeting point Please be at the boat departure pier
for all the walks at least 15 minutes before boat de-
(except the Beer parture time.
and Ghost Tour)
is on the corner BUS EXCURSIONS: PICKUP POINT
of Paris Street The pickup point is from Na Přikopě
(Pařížská) and 23 (a 5-minute walk from Wenceslas
Old Town Square, oppo- Square). If you also booked trans-
site the St Nicholas Church next to portation to the excursion, the driver
the Czech Tourism office. You might will pick you up directly at the hotel
ask at your hotel reception for exact reception.
directions. The Old Town Square is
just a short walk from Staroměstská
metro or tram station, and is one of
the most famous locations in Prague.
Your guide waits for you with a red
Prague Airport Transfers sign um-
brella. Please turn up 10 minutes
before the walk starts. For the Beer
and Ghost Tour, the pickup point is
from the Premiant Tour kiosk at Na
Příkopě 23, which is five minutes’
walk from Wenceslas Square.

BOAT: DEPARTURE POINT


The boat departure point is from
Dvořákovo Quay, and the boat is
located between Čechův Bridge
and Štefánikův Bridge, closer to the
Štefánikuv Bridge. If you walk from
Old Town Square, follow Pařížská
Street and after ten minutes you
reach the riverbank (Čechův Bridge)
right next to the Intercontinental
Hotel. Then, walk down to the pier
 155
Tours and Excursions Best Deals

Hluboká is a monumental romantic chateau located near Český Krumlov

Excursions famous throughout the world thanks


to the excellent Pilsner Urquell beer,
If you are staying in Prague for more brewed here since 1295. The guided
than a few days or it’s not your first tour of the cellars includes a visit
visit, it’s a good idea to see other to the extravagantly decorated beer
amazing places outside of Prague. hall, definitely an experience not to
West of Prague, you can soak be missed.
in the soothing natural thermal Head north out of Prague and you
springs of Karlovy Vary or Marián- enter the side of the Republic with
ské Lázně. This area produces some a dark past—the holocaust. Located
of the finest glass and porcelain here are two painful reminders, Lid-
pieces in the world. ice and Terezín. Lidice was destroyed
South-west of Prague lies the city by the Nazis in vengeance for Reich-
of beer, Plzeň. The city has become sprotektor Reinhard Heydrich‘s assas-
156
sination. Terezín was a former Czech
Jew concentration camp. One hundred
and forty thousand people passed
through here, but fewer than 11 % sur-
vived until the end of the war.
To follow the offbeat track head
to the Mělník, just about 40 km
north of Prague, where the Lobko-
wicz family’s Mělník Chateau can be
found. It overlooks the Labe and Vl-
tava rivers and has a vineyard that
has produced grapes for centuries.
When going south, a must-visit is
the medieval town of Český Krum-
lov. This picturesque historical town,
tinged with romance, has been, not
unjustifiably, the second most visited
in the Czech Republic. Telč
Some sights outside of Prague
are different, unique even. Take
Konopiště Chateau, for example.
Here you can witness the hunting
obsession of Archduke Ferdinand
by touring the Trophy Corridor and
Chamois Room and seeing the thou-
sands of stuffed heads, antlers and
skulls of his trophies.
And then there is Kutná Hora.
Visiting this town gives you an op-
portunity to explore a medieval
silver mine. Put on your helmet
with light and get started! Finally,
a bizarre experience is visiting
the Sedleč Ossuary at Kutná Hora,
where your spine will tingle look-
ing at the decorations which have
been made out of the bones of
40,000 people. Mariánské Lázně
 157
Tours and Excursions Best Deals

Kutná Hora (5.5-hour tour)


Regularly organised excursion TOUR DETAILS
shared with others, guided and — Tour date/time: Daily starting
including all fees at 1pm.
A medieval centre of silver-mining, — Price: CZK 990 per person
this was the second richest town in — Includes: Entrance fees to St.
the Bohemian Kingdom. The variety Barbara‘s Cathedral, the Italian
of Kutná Hora architectural monu- Court and Sedlec Ossuary.
ments and the well preserved struc- Optional free pickup from your
ture of the town-centre reflect its hotel.
ancient fame and wealth, which has
lasted until the present day. During
our walk, we will visit the gothic ca-
thedral of St. Barbara and the Italian
Court—originally a Royal Mint. No
less admirable are the other beauti-
ful gothic, renaissance and baroque
burgher houses and the unique
stone well from the 15th century.

Italian Court

Sedlec Ossuary The plague Column of the Virgin Mary


158
St. Barbara’s Cathedral

Kutná Hora (6.5-hour private tour)


Flexible private excursion. TOUR DETAILS
On demand anytime you wish, — Tour date/time: Recom-
exclusive of entrance fees and guide mended pick-up time: from
9am to 2pm. Free time at the
destination amounts to
3 to 4 hours, which is enough
time to see the city on foot.
— Prices: Prices shown are for a
whole group. 1—4 people: CZK
3120, 5— 8 people: CZK 3860.
— Excludes: Tour Guide and
entrance fees to St. Barbara’s
Cathedral, the Italian Court
and Ossuary.

St. Barbara’s Cathedral


 159
Tours and Excursions Best Deals

Karlovy Vary (9.5-hour tour)


Regularly organised excursion
shared with others, guided and
including all fees
This spa town‘s history goes back to
the 14th century, the time of Charles
IV. Such celebrities as Russia’s Cae-
sar Peter the Great or world famous
poet Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
praised the healing effects of the
town‘s local mineral springs. This
town is also famous for the produc-
tion of the world-famous Bohemian
crystal Moser, for local china produc-
tion known as Karlovarský porcelán
(Karlovy Vary porcelain) and for the
production of a delicious herb spirit
called Becherovka. The best-known spring of Vřídlo

TOUR DETAILS
— Tour date/time: Daily starting
at 8:45am.
— Price: CZK 1690 per person.
— Includes: Fully-guided tour,
lunch and Moser glass factory
tour.
Baroque colonnade
160
Thermal mineral water

TOUR DETAILS
— Tour date/time: Recom-
Karlovy Vary mended pick-up time: from
(7 or 9-hour private tour) 7am to 1pm. There are two
Flexible private excursion. different lengths of tours –
On demand anytime you wish, one seven hours in duration,
exclusive of entrance fees and guide and the other nine hours. With
the short tour, there are three
hours of free time at the des-
tination, and with the longer
tour there are five hours of
free time.
— Prices 7-hour tour:
1-4 people – CZK 3600.
5-8 people – CZK 4400.
— Prices 9-hour tour:
1-4 people – CZK 4600.
5-8 people – CZK 5000.
— Excludes: Tour guide and
entrance fees.

 161
Tours and Excursions Best Deals

Český Krumlov (9-hour tour) and have lunch in a medieval tavern.


Regularly organised excursion In the summer months, a visit to the
shared with others, guided and local castle is included.
including all fees
This historical centre and medieval
town is formed of narrow and wind- TOUR DETAILS
ing little streets with a number of — Tour date/time: Daily at
gothic, renaissance and baroque 8:45am.
houses that originated as man- — Price: CZK 2090 per person.
sions of such noble families as the — Includes: Lunch and entrance
Rožmberks, the Schwarzenbergs and fees and a free optional
the Eggenbergs. You will walk through pickup from your hotel.
the town accompanied by our guide
162
Český Krumlov
(8.5 or 11-hour private tour)
Flexible private excursion.
On demand anytime you wish,
exclusive of entrance fees and guide

TOUR DETAILS
— Tour date/time: Recommend-
ed pick-up time: from 7am to
1pm. There are two different
lengths of tours – one is 8½
hours in duration, and the
other is 11 hours.
— Price: Prices quoted are for a
whole group.
— 8½-hour tour:
1-4 people – CZK 4500.
5-8 people – CZK 5700.
— 11 hour tour:
1-4 people – CZK 5000.
5-8 people – CZK 6200.
— Excludes: Tour guide and any
entrance fees. Castle entrance
fee varies from CZK 35 to CZK
300 per person.

Český Krumlov Castle walls


 163
Tours and Excursions Best Deals

Terezín Memorial

Terezín (5-hour tour) ternational Red Cross Organisation


Regularly organised excursion it was misused for Nazi promotion
shared with others, guided and purposes. The small Fort Terezín was
including all fees a cruel prison of the Gestapo – the
If you are interested in the history of Reich‘s secret police.
World War II and the holocaust, this
tour is for you. The former military
fort of Terezín was built in the 18th TOUR DETAILS
century by Emperor Joseph II and — Tour date/time: Daily starting
will always be connected with the at 9am.
history of World War II. Better known — Price: CZK 1150 per person.
as the Big Fort, the town of Terezín — Includes: Free pickup from
itself was used as a transit camp for your hotel (optional) and all
Jews from all over Europe and at the entrance fees.
same time during visits of the In-
164
Terezín
(5.5-hour private tour)
Flexible private excursion.
On demand anytime you wish,
exclusive of entrance fees and guide

TOUR DETAILS
— Tour date/time: Recommend-
ed pick-up time: from 8am to
2pm. Free time at destination:
3 hrs 30 min (tour of Terezín
memorial complex takes about
1 hr 30 min to 2 hours).
— Prices: Prices shown are for a
whole group.
1-4 people – CZK 2500.
5-8 people – CZK 3200.
— Excludes: Memorial tour guide
and entrance fees. Terezin
Memorial entrance fee is CZK
200 and is paid directly by the
customer.

 165
Tours and Excursions Best Deals

Pilsner Urquell Brewery


(6-hour tour)
Flexible private excursion.
On demand anytime you wish,
exclusive of entrance fees and guide

TOUR DETAILS
— Tour date/time: Recom-
mended pick-up time: from
10am to 1pm.
Free time at destination: 4
hours. This is sufficient to visit
the Pilsen Brewery (including
Brewery Museum), have lunch,
and still have time for a quick
visit to the city centre. The city
can be easily seen on foot.
— Prices: Prices shown are for
a whole group.
1-4 people – CZK 3200.
5-8 people – CZK 4000.
— Excludes: Entrance fees to the
Pilsen Brewery or any other
entrance fees, which should be
paid directly by the customer.

166
 167
Tours and Excursions Best Deals

Karlštejn (4-hour tour)


Regularly organised excursion TOUR DETAILS
shared with others, guided and — Tour date/time: Every Thurs-
including all fees day and Saturday at 9 am.
Karlštejn is one of the most vis- During January and February
ited Czech castles, built by Emperor the castle is closed, except
Charles IV between 1348 and 1355. from 1st-9th January.
This Gothic castle served as a deposi- — Price: CZK 890 per person.
tory of royal and imperial jewels and — Includes: Free pickup from
coronation jewels, and also as an ar- your hotel (optional) and all
chive of state documents. After climb- entrance fees.
ing the hill you will take an hour-long
sight-seeing tour of the Karlštejn cas-
tle interior. Your guide will acquaint castle, but also with the life of Charles
you with not only the history of the IV and art during his reign.
168
Karlštejn (4.5-hour private tour)
Flexible private excursion.
On demand anytime you wish,
exclusive of entrance fees and guide

TOUR DETAILS
Our private excursions are — Tour date/time: Recommend-
completely flexible and even ed pick-up time is from 9am to
your itinerary can be tailored to 2pm, except Mondays when the
exactly what you want to see. castle is closed (also closed
As well as being able to adjust during the winter months of
your itinerary on a private tour, January and February)..
you can also choose your own — Prices:
time for your tour, and how 1-4 people – CZK 1750.
much time you spend at each 5-8 people – CZK 2150.
attraction (if you want to cut — Excludes: Tour Guide and en-
your tour short, or extend your trance fees are not included.
time, for example, we’ll adjust Castle entrance fee starts at
the price/waiting fee on the CZK 250 for a guided 50 to
spot). 60-minute tour.

 169
Tours and Excursions Best Deals

Dresden (11-hour tour) Art Gallery you can admire the “Six-
Regularly organised excursion tin Madonna”, the famous picture by
shared with others, guided and Raphael, as well as many notable
including all fees works by the Old Masters from the
From a fishing village, Dresden grew 14th to 17th centuries (Rubens, Rem-
into a spa and a royal residence, and brandt, Poussin etc.).
later became the capital of Saxony.
The galleries of Zwinger and Alberti-
num, the Hofkirche and Frauenkirche TOUR DETAILS
churches, and Semper‘s Opera are — Tour date/time: This tour
among the most important sights of starts at 8.45am and only oper-
Dresden. During the 2nd World War ates on Tue. Wed., Thus. and Fri.
the city was completely destroyed — Price: CZK 1750 per person.
by a massive bombardment, but was — Includes: Free pickup from
renovated and rebuilt. In the famous your hotel (optional).
Baroque palace of Zwinger and the
170
Dresden
(10-hour private tour)
Flexible private excursion.
On demand anytime you wish,
exclusive of entrance fees and guide

TOUR DETAILS
— Tour date/time: Recom-
mended pick-up time is from
7am to 11am.
— Prices:
1-4 people – CZK 4320.
5-8 people – CZK 5310.
— Excludes: Tour Guide and en-
trance fees are not included.

 171
Language If you are keen to learn some basic
words and phrases, we recommend
The national language is Czech. How- the Czech phrase book by Lonely
ever, English is widely spoken (espe- Planet. Believe or not, even knowing
cially by the younger generation), as a few short sentences will always de-
is German and Russian (mostly by light the locals, who will be pleased
the older generation). Czech is the at your efforts and admire your trying.
national language though. Czechs usually speak German,
Unlike English, each Czech letter is English or Russian as a second
always pronounced the same way, so language though their ability will
once you are familiar with the Czech vary. This may be more obvious
alphabet you will be able to read. when talking with the older genera-
Stress is usually on the first syllable tion. Before the revolution in 1989,
of a word. The Czech language can learning Russian was compulsory in
be quite difficult to learn and many schools. Today, almost no one learns
English speakers find it very hard to Russian and most people prefer to
pronounce. speak English or German.

Survival English-to-Czech Nice to meet you Těší mě


Dictionary (tye-shee mye)
How much? Kolik? (kolik)
Do you speak English? Mluvíte How long? Jak dlouho?
anglicky? (mlu-veete an-glits-ki?) (yak dlow-ho)
Hello Dobrý den (dobree den) Where is … ? Kde je … ? (gde ye)
Thank you Děkuji (yekooyee/ I’d like … Chtěl bych … (khtyel bikh)
je-koo-yi) I do not understand Nerozumím
Good morning Dobré ráno (dobreh (nerozoomeem)
rahno) I don’t speak Czech Nemluvím česky
Good evening Dobrý večer (dobreh (Neh-mloo-veem cheskee)
vehcher) What time is it? Kolik je hodin?
Good Night Dobrou noc (dobroh (kolik ye hodeen)
nots) Can I have a …? Mohl(a) bych dostat
Good bye Na shledanou … ? (mo-hla bikh dostat)
(nas-klehdanoh) What is it? Co je to? (tso ye to)
Excuse me Promiňte (prominyte) How are you? Jak se máte?
My name is Jmenuji se … (yak-se mah-te?)
(ymeenooye se) Hospital Nemocnice (neh-mots-nitse)
172
Train Station Nádraží (nah- 1 Jedna (yed-na)
drazhyee) 2 Dvě (dvye)
Cheers Na zdraví (nah zdrah-vee) 3 Tři (trzi)
Bon appetite Dobrou chuť (do- 4 Čtyři (chti-rzhi)
brooh khutye) 5 Pět (pyet)
The bill, please Prosím, účet (pro- 6 Šest (shest)
seem oo-chet) 7 Sedm (sedm)
Please, you’re welcome Prosím 8 Osm (osm)
(proseem) 9 Devět (dev-yet)
Waiter! Pane vrchní (pane vrkh- 10 Deset (des-et)
nyee!) 100 Sto (sto)
Waitress! Slečno (slech-no) 1000 Tisíc (tyi-seets)
Beer Pivo (pivo) Day Den (den)
Toilet Toaleta (toh-ah-lehta) Week Týden (tee-den)
Please Prosím (proseem) Big Velký (vel-kee)
Yes / No Ano / Ne (ano / ne) Small Malý (ma-lee)
Shop Obchod (ob-khod) Hot Horký (hor-kee)
Street Ulice (oo-leetse) Cold Studený (stu-de-nee)
Police Policie (poleetsee-ye) Bad Špatný (shpat-nere)
Airport Letiště (leh-teesh-tye) Good Dobrý (do-bree)

Pronunciation ň as ni in opinion
a as in cat q is pronounce kv
á as in bar r is rolled
c as ts in its ř combines rolled r and zh sound
č as ch in cheap in measure
ch as ch in loch š as ss in mission
ď as in duration ť as t in overture
e as in elf u as on could
é as ea in wear ú and ů as oo in soon
ě as ye in yell w is pronounced v
i as in kit y as i in kit
í as ie in belief ý as ie in belief
j as y in yellow ž as zh sound in measure

 173
Famous Czechs
Politicians Soccer Players
• Václav Havel (1936-2011) • Petr Čech (*1982)
Czech playwright and dissident and • Pavel Nedvěd (*1972)
later Czech president, one of the • Tomáš Rosický (*1980)
great men to emerge from the anti- • Josef Masopust (1931-2015)
communist revolutions.
• Václav Klaus (*1941) Tennis Players
former prime minister and ex- • Tomáš Berdych (*1985)
president of the Czech Republic. • Ivan Lendl (*1960)
• Madeleine Albright (*1937) • Petra Kvitová (*1990)
Czech-born American politician and • Radek Štěpánek (*1978)
diplomat. • Martina Navratilová (*1956)

Scientists/Pioneers Hockey Players


• Prokop Diviš (1698-1765) • Dominik Hašek (*1965)
Inventor of electropathy and the • Jaromír Jágr (*1972)
lightning conductor. • Patrik Eliáš (*1986)
• Sigmund Freud (1856-1939) • David Krejčí (*1986)
Inventor of deep psychology. • Tomáš Vokoun (*1976)
• Tomáš Baťa (1876-1932)
Founder of the Baťa worldwide Models
shoemaking industry. • Eva Herzigová (*1973)
• Otto Wichterle (1913-1998) • Petra Němcová (*1979)
Inventor of silon and contact • Karolína Kurková (*1984)
lenses. • Tereza Fajksová (*1989)
(Miss Earth 2012)
Authors • Taťána Kuchařová (*1987)
• Franz Kafka (1883-1924) (Miss World 2006)
Czech-German author who wrote
The Trial, The Castle, America. Filmmakers
• Miloš Forman (*1932)
Composers • Jan Svěrák (*1965)
• Antonín Dvořák (1841-1904) • Jiří Menzel (*1938)

174
Notes

 175
Disclaimer
This book has been written to
Copyright 2018 provide information to help
Prague Airport Transfers s.r.o.® you during your visit to Prague.
Every effort has been made to
make this book as complete
and accurate as possible. How-
ever, there may be mistakes in
typography or content. Also,
All rights are reserved. this book contains information
No part of this book may be repro- on seeing Prague only up to
duced or transmitted in any form the publishing date. Therefore,
without the written permission of the this report should be used as
author, except for the inclusion a guide – not as an ultimate
of brief quotations in a review. source of Prague tourist infor-
mation.
MANAGING EDITOR: Štěpán Jara The purpose of this book is to
educate. The author and pub-
LAYOUT: Radek Havlíček lisher do not warrant that the
information contained in this
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26th edition steven@prague.co.uk
Published January 2018
176
Rental of a Limousine
Spoil yourself and hire a top class luxury limousine to travel from
the airport, to a wedding, for a romantic tour of Prague or simply for
a luxury transfer from your hotel to the theatre or restaurant.

HUMMER H200 FORD EXCURSION


(max. 17 persons) (max. 14 persons)
1-hour rental: CZK 4650 (€ 186) 1-hour rental: CZK 3900 (€ 156)
Airport transfer: CZK 4990 (€ 200) Airport transfer: CZK 3900 (€ 156)

CADILLAC ESCALADE LINCOLN TC120


(max. 17 persons) (max. 8 persons)
1-hour rental: CZK 4990 (€ 200) 1-hour rental: CZK 1990 (€ 80)
Airport transfer: CZK 4990 (€ 200) Airport transfer: CZK 2190 (€ 88)

+420 222 554 211 www.prague-airport-transfers.co.uk


TRANSPORT
TO THE AIRPORT
TAXI SHUTTLE
PRIVATE TRANSPORT SHARED DOOR-TO-DOOR
max. 4 persons CZK 590 (€ 23.50) 2 persons CZK 450 (€ 18)
1 person CZK 290 (€ 11.50)
MINIBUS
PRIVATE TRANSPORT SHUTTLE-BUS
max. 8 persons CZK 780 (€ 31) TO/FROM CITY CENTRE STOP
1 person CZK 140 (€ 5.50)
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