Really Simple Cold Smoking, BBQ and Salt Curing at Home

REALLY SIMPLE
Cold Smoking, BBQ

& Salt Curing
AT HOME
by
Peter Dugmore
Cover Photo: Barbecue by alisdair: Flickr Creative Commons
2
Author's Note
WHY THIS BOOK WAS WRITTEN; WHAT MAKES IT DIFFERENT – AND FOR
WHOM IT IS INTENDED
As its title implies, Cold Smoking, BBQ & Salt Curing at Home is a book primarily about the
techniques and methods of cooking and curing with smoke and salt – simply ... economically
... and without having to leave the comfortable surroundings of one's own home – or garden!
Its aim is to simplify the process for those who would like to prepare cured food – all types of
smoked and dry-cured food – for themselves (but who may until now have had misgivings
about their ability to do so), and to offer a whole range of new techniques and insights to those
who are already familiar with the process (but who are looking significantly to up their game).
Foundational or "platform" recipes are offered for a wide spread of different foods, but – more
than most other books of its kind – this book focuses on the equipment and accessories
required to smoke or cure them.
The book identifies the unique characteristics (including regional characteristics) of different
woods and fuels used in the food smoking process, and suggests the right fuel for the right
application.
While it gives full, and detailed, coverage to traditional smoked foods like pork, beef, lamb,
poultry and fish, the book also introduces a further range of smoked foods which could, for
many readers, represent new and exciting food territory; – foods like smoked fruit, nuts, dairy
products (cheeses and butters), molluscs and other seafoods which are – quite simply –
delicious!
In terms of its popularity – particularly in the New World – barbecue sits at the heart of all
smoked food cooking.
But – at the risk of being pilloried for heresy – barbecue is not the only means of smoking food
at home! Mention smoked foods in many parts of the world and people will automatically
think of deli-style cold-smoked, or dry-cured, fish, meat and poultry (like smoked salmon and
dry cured and country hams, bacons and sausages).
This is an aspect of home-smoking which doesn't feature strongly in many American books on
smoke cookery and food curing. Yet it's generally less equipment-intensive and costly than
barbecue, and not difficult to do. And the results are every bit as good as those you'll find on
the cold counters of delis and charcuteries around the world – at a small fraction of the cost!
One important aim in writing this book, then, is to de-mystify dry-curing and cold-smoking or
smoke-curing of foods, and show how simple this style of food preparation is, and how
comfortably within the capabilities of most people, at home!
3
Photos (l to r): H. Forman Smoked Salmon with Homemade Bagels by Beck (Girl Interrupted
Eating); and Rendezvous-Hams by Southern Foodways Alliance: Flickr Creative Commons
That said, if one Googles "Top Ten American Foods" barbecue will almost certainly feature
in the honours roll. Depending on the regional prejudices of the list compiler, the particular
dish could vary from a Texas barbecued beef brisket, to a Kansas City pork sparerib to an
Owensboro lamb shoulder– with many other regional favourites in between. Barbecue, as a
method of cooking however, is central to all of them – and no book on food curing and
smoking, like this one, could even think of leaving it out.
The appeal of barbecue is not limited to North America, either! Australia (where it's called
"the barbie"), South Africa ("the braai") and a growing number of countries in parts of
Europe and South America are increasingly adopting, modifying and experimenting with
barbecue as a method of outdoor preparation of food, quite distinct from simply grilling.
To extend and hopefully bring new insights into the appeal barbecue has for Americans – and
to internationalise its appeal as one of the most varied and delicious ways of cooking (and
socialising!) outdoors – was another central motivation for writing the book.
Cold Smoking, BBQ & Salt Curing at Home is not a traditional, formulaic, recipe book in the
sense of offering a compendium of smoked food recipes. Instead, it seeks to offer a "building-
block approach" to recipe-creation.
The direction we have taken is to offer a generous, representative selection of "base" recipes,
which cover most of the food types featured, and which provide a launch platform from which
to create more complex and adventurous recipes of your own.
For a more detailed perspective, should you need it, we also provide links to smokehouse and
barbecue recipe books we have personally enjoyed and can recommend.
(Our follow-up book in this series on smoked food cookery – in which we hope you, the
readers of the book, will collaborate – will be a true recipe book in the sense in which the
term is generally used).
For the most part, though, this current book concentrates on the technical aspects of smoked
4
and dry-cured food preparation, and as such will, we believe, have an appeal:
Firstly, for everyone who has an existing interest in cooking with smoke and salt as a method
of preparing food, as well as everyone who is attracted to the idea and would like to learn
more about it.
Cold Smoking, BBQ & Salt Curing at Home explores, in detail, not only what makes some
woods and fuels better for one application, and others for other applications, but also which
woods work best in different regions. It considers, in some depth, the different cuts of meat
which are suitable for smoking, and the different methods of preparing foods prior to smoking
or dry-curing them. (While our contention is that it's hard to imagine a cooked fish, meat or
fowl that couldn't benefit from smoking, there are some which qualify for the tables of kings
and potentates, while others probably do no more than top the menus of the Ritz and the
Hilton!)
Illustrated charts are provided showing the major cuts of meat from each of the main animal
groups – pork, beef, lamb and venison.
The book breaks new ground in considering a spread of food types which are not generally
associated with food smoking, and also provides a range of stock or "platform" recipes to
cover them.
And it looks, in detail, at the advantages and disadvantages of a selection of different
commercial home food smoking and dry-curing equipment – pits, large vault and box smokers,
vertical and water smokers, kettle and other grills – even stove-top smokers suitable for the
smallest apartment or loft balcony, or for a quick-smoked, no fuss, convenience meal you can
rustle up in minutes.
Secondly, the book is for readers with rather more specialised interests like those who
want to learn the specifics of dry-curing, and of cold-smoking, or salt and smoke-curing, as
well as conventional hot-smoking (as distinct from barbecue).
A section of the book explores "emergency" food smoking for hikers, campers, hunters,
fishermen and survivalists, who would like, while still in the wild, to smoke any bounty
garnered from the outdoors, but who frequently don't have access to conventional (or any!)
smoking equipment to do so.
5
Photo: Hunting-With-The-Boys by Bob G (rjg329): Flickr Creative Commons
And, finally, there is generous space dedicated to the precise how-to of building your own
food smoking equipment at home – partly as a low-cost alternative to the (undoubtedly
excellent, but often fairly expensive) commercial equivalents, and partly for the good, warm
feeling of accomplishment it brings!
6
DIY smokers you can make at home from readily available bits and pieces: Clockwise from
top left: Double drum smoker; Cold-smoke smoker and curing cabinet; double-skinned vertical
smoker; and permanent brick-built hot, cold, and dry-cured, smokehouse.
Diagrams, lists of materials, and assembly instructions are covered in some detail.
Concluding Note: No book is worth anything without the goodwill of its readers. And most
authors will readily acknowledge the immense value of the comments, suggestions and
contributions of those readers.
I most certainly do! .... I'd like to thank you for it. ..... And I'd like to take it further...
For our next book, already fairly well advanced, we are inviting the readers of this book to
collaborate in its authorship by contributing a favourite smoked food recipe. All
contributions will be examined by an editorial panel, and every contributor, whether their
recipe is used or not, will be given advanced warning of when the book is to be published, as
well as the means to obtain a free copy.
All published contributions will be acknowledged, by the contributor's name.
You'll be asked to certify that the recipe is your own (or, alternatively, that you have the
permission of its originator, if it isn't your own). Photographs will certainly be welcomed.
Additionally, if contributors are involved professionally in the business of smoked foods
(restaurants, cookery writers, equipment and comestible suppliers – anyone looking to make an
income out of food smoking!), and their recipes are used, a link will be supplied to them in
appreciation of their contribution.
At this stage, what we're looking for is simply an indication of your interest. We aren't ready
to accommodate your recipes – yet! If you'd like to see your name in lights as a contributor, or
would simply like to get onto our waiting list for notification of when this and other planned
books are published (Really Simple Sushi at Home is one which is already on the drawing
board!) please email me at homesmokedfoods@gmail.com , with the following in the subject
line: Subscribe me for updates and/or I'd like to contribute a favourite recipe.
7
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Author's Note
Dedication
About the Author
A SUGGESTION ON HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
COPYRIGHT AND DISCLAIMERS
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
PART 1: HOME SMOKED? WHY BOTHER?
Photo: The Chef by Bev Sykes (basykes): Flickr Creative Commons

PART 2: EQUIPMENT: THE (REALLY VERY SIMPLE!) BASICS
PART 3: FUELS
Photo: Logs by Timothy Crawshaw (crows_wood): Flickr Creative Commons
8
1. The Chemistry of Smoke:
2. What Wood Can I Use? And Which Should Be Avoided?
3. Local Is Generally Best – But Some Local Is Better than Others!
4. Different Woods for Different Applications...
5. Charcoal
- Lump Charcoal vs Charcoal Briquettes
6. Starting the Fire
PART 4: FOOD SELECTION AND PREPARATION
Photo: Dried Fish by ume-y: Flickr Creative Commons

FOR COLD- AND CONVENTIONALLY HOT-SMOKED FOODS
1. General Considerations
2. Brining and Salting.
3. Hot Smoke Salting and Brining.
4. Cold Smoke Salting and Brining.
5. "Wild" Smoking
Photo: Hunting-With-The-Boys by Bob G (rjg329): Flicker Creative Commons

PART 5: TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES
9
Photo Charcoal Companion
PART 6: PRE-EMINENTLY BARBECUE!
Rubs and Pastes:

Marinades:
Mops and Bastes:
Sauces:
Injection Liquids:
A List of Seasoning Ingredients:
PART 7: FOOD, GLORIOUS SMOKE-CURED FOOD!
Photo: rib closeup by Daryn Nakhuda (ddaarryynn): Flickr Creative Commons
10
1. GENERAL RECOMMENDATIONS FOR SMOKING FOODS.
2. MEAT.
2.1. Pork:
2.2. Beef:
2.3. Mutton, Lamb and Goat:
2.4. Veal:
2.5. Venison:
3. CHICKEN AND OTHER BIRDS.
Photos (l to r): Chicken by SMcGarnigle; Turkey in snow by Justin Russell (nightthree); and
California Quail by Sid Mosdell (SidPix): Flickr Creative Commons
- Chicken:
- Turkey:
- Duck:
- Cornish Game Hens and Quail:
- Pheasant and Grouse:
11
Photo Greater Sage-Grouse by USFWS Pacific Southwest (Pacific Southwest Region): Flickr
Creative Commons
4. FISH.
Photo: Fish by malias (Gideon): Flickr Creative Commons

5. CRUSTACEANS, SHELLFISH AND OTHER SEAFOODS.
Photo: mussels petals by Natalie (natamagat); Flickr Creative Commons

6. NUTS, VEGETABLES AND FRUIT.
12
Photo: aubergine by gomagoti; Flickr Creative Commons
7. SNACKS, RELISHES, DIPS AND APPETISERS.
Photo: Tapas by Jessica Spengler (WordRidden): Flickr Creative Commons

8. DAIRY, SOUPS AND STOCKS, LEFTOVERS AND ETCETERAS.
Photo Roasted Carrot Soup by Joy (joyosity): Flickr Creative Commons

9. MAINTENANCE, CLEANING, HYGIENE AND PERSONAL
PROTECTION.
PART 8: DRY-AND SALT-CURING
Photo: Rendezvous-Hams by Southern Foodways Alliance: Flickr Creative Commons

1. DESCRIPTION
2 METHODS OF CURING
13
3 DRY CURING
5 CURED MEAT SELECTION
6 JERKY AND BILTONG
Photo: Jerky 756 by Larry Jacobsen (ljguitar): Flickr Creative Commons

Jerky Methods and Recipes:
Biltong Methods and Recipes:
7 DRIED SAUSAGE AND "DROEWORS" METHODS AND RECIPES:
8 DRY-CURED HAM (PROSCIUTTO) METHODS AND RECIPES:
Photo: Hams Drying in the Meat House, Ghent by Bas Leenders (BasL): Flickr Creative
Commons
9 DRY-CURED BACONS (PANCETTA, GUANCIALE, ETC) METHODS
AND RECIPES:
14
Photo: Guaniale by Joy (joyosity): Flickr Creative Commons
PART 9: CUTTING TO THE CHASE! (A Quick-Start Summary for those who want
Instructions rather than Explanations!)
EQUIPMENT:
FOOD:
HOT-SMOKING, COLD SMOKING (OR CURING) ... AND BBQ:
MAKE YOUR OWN EQUIPMENT:
RECIPES:
SAFETY AND HYGIENE:
SEASONINGS, RUBS, PASTES, MARINADES, MOPS AND BASTES:
SMOKE, WOODS AND FUELS:
TEMPERATURES:
TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES:
15
WILDERNESS OR BACKWOODS FOOD SMOKING:
DRY-AND SALT-CURING
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE DRY-CURING PROCESS.
CURED MEAT SELECTION
JERKY AND BILTONG
DRIED SAUSAGE ("DROEWORS") METHODS AND RECIPES:
DRY-CURED HAM (PROSCIUTTO) METHODS AND RECIPES:
DRY-CURED BACONS (PANCETTA, GUANCIALE, ETC) METHODS AND
RECIPES:
PART 10: BUILD YOUR OWN SMOKERS AND CURING BOXES FROM SCRATCH
(Materials, Assembly Instructions and Construction Details – From Smallest to

Largest)
Construction and Metalworking Basics
General Assembly and Construction Considerations.
Build Your Own Stove-Top Smoker.
Build Your Own, Double-Walled, Drum Smoker.
Build Your Own Vertical Water Smoker.
Build Your Own Permanent Smokehouse Outdoors.
Build Your Own REALLY SIMPLE Cold Smoker.
16
Build Your Own REALLY SIMPLE Dry Curing Box.
Going Mobile
Drying before Smoking
TABLE OF CONTRIBUTORS
17
Dedication
This book is dedicated to the memory of a thousand-and-one nights cooking and eating around
a fire outdoors with family and friends.
It's to celebrate the adventure of food, and in particular food prepared, cooked, dry-cured, or
smoked in a pit, over a grill, or on a campfire under the stars.
And finally it's to thank my wife Margaret for her support and friendship in both the good times
and the bad.
18
About the Author
I'm a journalist, author, inventor, consultant, businessman – and a lifelong foodie, with a
particular interest in outdoor cooking, charcuterie, sushi, and cross-cuisine fusion food.
My family and I live in Africa, and share a passion for its wilderness opportunities. We've
worked out that at one (very privileged!) stage in our lives, over a period of about ten years,
we spent more than 800 nights camping out on safaris, wilderness holidays, canoe adventures
– and "riverside living" on a wild stretch of the Breede River in South Africa, with jackals,
lynx, black eagles, honey badgers and otters many times our only companions.
My paternal grandparents were members of the Pioneer column in 1896 to what was then
Matabeleland, in Central Africa. Grandfather was General Manager of a ranching company
which owned large tracts of virgin bush in Southern Rhodesia, now Zimbabwe, and some of
my earliest childhood memories are of extended camping trips with my grandparents and my
father, sleeping under the stars, shooting and fishing for the pot (in true Pioneer fashion) and
generally enjoying the generous bounty of what was then an unspoilt wilderness.
Drawing on those early experiences, and the taste for backwoods living which was their
legacy, a section of this book is given over to "Wild Smoking" – and the shifts that can be
made to smoke and preserve food in the bush without conventional equipment and accessories.
Now, in our retirement, the "outdoors" for our family has largely moved to the backyard, and
the equipment we use for grilling and barbecuing is more commercial than rustic. But the urge
19
to experiment, to learn about and try different smoking and dry-curing methods and techniques,
remains.
Out of that enduring, lifelong interest this book was born. I really do hope you'll enjoy reading
it as much as I've enjoyed researching and writing it.
20
To Our Readers
Readers of How-To Instructional books (like this one) fall somewhere between two extremes.
At one extreme are those who want to know "Why?" before they learn "How?" They want to
know the technology behind the techniques. They're interested in the history and the stages of
development in whatever skill or technology is being taught. They want to know why, during
the course of development, one method or system was preferred to another. And they're happy
to be introduced to the main historical, and present-day, protagonists with some understanding
of why one person prefers a particular technique and why another person is only happy with a
different method or process.
At the other extreme are those who simply want a clear-cut set of instructions.
Photo: Domestic Life by Marc Banks (L'eau Bleu): Flickr Creative Commons
As long as what is being taught reflects "best current practice", they aren't particularly
interested in the "Why" as long as the "How" is succinctly and clearly explained. For this
latter class of reader a step-by-step instruction manual or video is enough.
And, of course, there are a large number of readers who fall somewhere in between.
21
Photo: The Simplest Workflow Diagram Ever by doryfour: Flickr Creative Commons
No point on the continuum is "Right" – just as no point is "Wrong". Unfortunately, readers in
the "Why?-before-How?" camp tend to feel short-changed if they get only a bullet-point
instructional manual. Equally, the "Give-me-the-Instructions-Only" reader resents anything
that could be seen as "too much fluff", or padding!
We're trying, in our Really Simple Books, to unravel the Gordian knot – and satisfy both
classes of reader by covering both the "Why" and the "How" in the first half of all of our
books, and limiting the second half to just the "How". There are numerous links from one
section to the other.
In the current book, Parts 1 to 8 cover the background "Why" to the How-To methods and
techniques discussed, while Parts 9 and 10 are primarily concerned with the pure nuts-and-
bolts essence of the "How". If you've read Parts 1 to 8, you'll probably want to skip Part 9
(unless you want a quick refresher); and if you go straight to Part 9, you can always go back to
the earlier parts of the book to fill in any gaps.
I'm aware that this approach leads to a measure of repetition. I hope the benefits of the
approach will outweigh this potential shortcoming, that you'll be gentle on me if it doesn't, and
that the approach taken is useful to you.
22
Copyright © 2013 by Peter Dugmore. All rights reserved. This publication may not be
reproduced in whole or in part by any means whatsoever without the prior written consent of
the author.
Information and illustrations provided by equipment and accessory suppliers were correct at
the time of publication, at end-September 2013. However, suppliers themselves have
cautioned that their product ranges are continually reviewed and updated, and there is
therefore, and can be, no guarantee that the equipment or accessories featured at the time of
publication will be consistently available in the future.
Because the use of the equipment, accessories, recipes, construction details and any other
technical information contained in this book is beyond the control of all persons involved in
the creation, publication and distribution of the book, the authors, publisher, equipment and
accessory suppliers, contributors and any other persons so involved disclaim all responsibility
for the legal, financial and other effects or consequences of any action taken in reliance upon
the information contained herein.
It would be patently unfeasible for the author and the publisher to personally test and review
every piece of equipment and every accessory featured in this book. Manufacturer's
descriptions are given on trust, and reviews and testimonials covering featured equipment and
accessories represent a summary and/or précis of information drawn from a number of
independent sources on the Internet. In every case an attempt has been made, where a review
or testimonial is offered, to include only views and opinions representative of a significant
number of reviewers, and where the general consensus among those reviewers in regard to the
features and benefits of the products being reviewed was favourable.
Again, however, no warranties are given, nor may any be inferred as to the reliability of the
descriptions, recipes, views, opinions, reviews and testimonials featured, and no liability,
actual or contingent attaches to the author, the suppliers cited, the reviewers or the publisher in
the event that the featured reviews or testimonials prove in any way misleading or incorrect.
Specifically, readers should reassure themselves as to the bona fides of any equipment or
accessory supplier mentioned in this book, and satisfy themselves also as to any claimed
benefits or features attaching to the equipment or accessories offered, as well as the general
terms and conditions of sale and/or return applied by the supplier, before making any purchase
of featured equipment or accessory/ies.
Diagrams, construction and assembly methods and details, and operating suggestions and
instructions are all given in good faith. However, their interpretation and manner of
implementation are outside the control of the author, publisher and other persons involved in
the preparation, publication and distribution of the book, and again no warranties are given,
nor may any be inferred as to their reliability nor may any liability, actual or contingent,
arising out of their use attach, or be ascribed, to the author or the publisher.
23
I am an Amazon Associate, and a member of a number of affiliate programmes, and some of
the products featured in this book and on my various websites could be eligible for Amazon
and other commissions. By no means all of them are, and in any event I do not promote or
feature any product in which I do not have a reasonable basis for confidence.
24
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Many of the illustrations and photographs in this book would not have been possible without
the quite extraordinary generosity and talent of a body of photographers who make their
illustrations available, without charge, on Flickr's Creative Commons.
Their names appear beneath each picture, at very least at its first appearance in the body of the
book, with an indication of their membership of the Creative Commons. They are also listed,
in order of appearance, in the TABLE OF CONTRIBUTORS which appears at the back of the
book, with sufficient identification for you to visit their Flickr pages.
Their only reward is to know that their work has been appreciated. I am sincerely grateful to
all of them, and if you, too, as readers of this book enjoy their contributions you should do
yourselves a favour and visit them on www.flickr.com . Leave a comment to show your
appreciation, too.
I cannot sing their praises too highly, or thank them adequately enough.
My thanks, too, to the army of men and women who are prepared to share, in their many and
varied posts on the Internet, a common love of barbecue and the whole smokehouse and food
curing experience.
Suppliers of the barbecue equipment and accessories featured in the book have been generous
to a fault in the support they have provided. I hope that the illustrations used to describe their
products will also serve to promote those products, and for the ready advice they were able to
provide that they will accept my heartfelt thanks. If I have misrepresented any of them, this
was inadvertent, and I apologise unreservedly.
I have already referred, in my dedication, to the support of my wife Margaret, and I'd like to
thank her again. She is not only a very insightful critic, but she is probably the best copy-
reader I have ever known. If there are any remaining typos or formatting errors in the book, the
fault is mine and mine alone.
25
Five Good Reasons (Certainly for us they have been!): ...
1. The "Smokehouse Experience".
Photo: Smoked Fish by dennis and aimee jonez: Flickr Creative Commons
2. Titillating and Teasing with Differing Tastes and Flavours.
3. More Gourmet Delectables at a Fraction of the Cost.
4. A Great Alternative to Freezing.
5. Self-Fulfilment (and a Licence to Brag – a Little!).
1. Broadening the Smokehouse Experience.

A good proportion of this book is devoted to cold-smoking, or smoke-curing, the results of
which come closest to the smoked foods typically found in delicatessen cold counters and their
supermarket and convenience store equivalents. Most people are reasonably comfortable with
the idea of home-barbecuing. Cold-smoking or salt-and-smoke curing, however, has a
mystique about it which many backyard smokers find daunting.
It probably explains why one of the questions that are invariably asked of us whenever we talk
about the merits of cold-cure home smoking (before our questioners taste the results of it, that
is!) runs something like this:
"It all sounds very complicated and difficult! With such a variety of cold-smoked foods
26
commercially available in not only the delicatessens and specialty food shops, but increasingly
in the chains and supermarkets, why would anyone want to take on the hassle of doing it for
themselves?"
There are some excellent cold-smoked foods in the shops! That said, though, there are still a
number of compelling reasons for putting in the time and (really, fairly minimal) effort
required to smoke your own foods at home –cold-smoked, as well as hot-smoked and
barbecued.
We've covered cold-smoking in this book not as a substitute for barbecuing, but as a different
way of producing a distinctive genre of smoked foods. The two methods are not in
competition with one another; rather, they complement and round each other out.
You'll find other reasons for expanding the scope of your smokehouse cooking at home as you
get into the various styles of this highly rewarding branch of food preparation, but here are just
some of the more important we've discovered in the course of our own experience and
experimentation, and gleaned from our research into the experience of others:
2. Titillating and Teasing with Differing Tastes and Flavours.

Commercially-smoked foods are manufactured under controlled conditions designed to
provide a relatively uniform taste and flavour from batch to batch.
This is not to say that the end result is not delicious! But large-scale manufacturers know that a
consumer who buys a particular brand on the basis of a favourable past experience doesn't
want to experience something different when she buys again. (Consistency = consumer loyalty
= sales! Ask MacDonald's, The Colonel, and Coke!).
The cost implications in consumer disaffection when you fiddle with the brand can often be
significant! (Remember the marketing setback accompanying the introduction of "New Coke"
in 1985?!).
Home smoking allows for a low-risk, low-cost opportunity to experiment. Often, in the
process the end result is a really exciting taste breakthrough. (And unless the results are
really, really unspeakable your friends will cut you enough slack to keep coming back,
anyway! Simply because they're friends!).
The possibility of a new taste breakthrough is one of the reasons we advocate writing down a
successful change in recipe or procedure, while it's still fresh in your mind, so you can
27
replicate it if you want to! Because there's nothing quite as frustrating as drawing on memory
to produce something which when you last made it had the gods on Olympus squabbling over
the pickings, and which now wouldn't find acceptance in a struggling, back-country, truck stop!
2.1 Flavour Modifiers

a. Different Woods Impart Significantly Different Flavours...
In Part 3, below, we discuss in considerable detail the different types of smoke mediums you
can employ in your home smoking.
Often the choice of wood or other smoke medium is dictated by what is available locally, but
if you're anything like most really serious smoke aficionados, you're constantly on the lookout
for the opportunity to pick up wood from trees felled in a deciduous orchard by a local farmer,
or lopped from a neighbour's oak or hickory tree, or from a copse which is cleared to make
room for a new housing development.
Photo: Teamwork by Paul Sableman (Pasa47): Flickr Creative Commons

Using wood gathered in this way satisfies the hunter-gatherer instinct which is deep-seated in
all of us and imparts a gratifying sense of achievement and self-sufficiency in the by-going.
(Even if it does take up a bit more space in the garage!).
b. Smoky-Robust to Smoky-Subtle...
Some foods benefit from a prolonged exposure to a rich, dense smoke, while others can be
imbued with a more understated smokiness which enhances, without overwhelming, the natural
28
taste of the food itself.
Even foods which are notionally the same can benefit from different smoke intensities and
exposure times. For example, many barbecuers prefer a slightly more emphatic smoking of
store-bought chicken (whose flavour is often somewhat bland!) and use a more subtle smoking
approach for true, free-range birds which they buy from, or are given by, their farming and
hunting friends, and which have a pronounced, natural, "wild" flavour of their own which too
heavy a smoke would swamp or suppress.
c. Seasonings – the Hot-Smoke Artist's Palette...
Perhaps the greatest opportunity for experimentation and self-expression lies in the application
of salt and seasonings in the pre-preparation of foods before hot-smoking, and barbecuing in
particular.
We discuss in Part 4 the basics of dry salting and brining techniques, and in Part 6 devote
considerable attention to the "seasoning chain" of rubs, pastes, marinades, bastes, mops, and
sauces which give barbecue its particular identity and appeal. We suggest a number of "stock"
seasoning recipes which have found wide acceptance, and which others have recommended or
shared with us.
We investigate the different, and generally very basic, seasoning requirements of cold-smoking
or curing, as contrasted with hot-smoking or barbecuing, and we also look at a few basic
seasoning mixes which seem to work best with different food types.
Every step in the home smoking process is important, but notably in the case of barbecue it is
in seasoning that the smoke artist lifts his (or her) craft from the extraordinary to the
exceptional.
29
3. More Gourmet Delectables for a Fraction of the Cost.
While the opportunities offered by home smoking to experiment with and develop a range of
new, exciting, different – and delicious! – taste and flavour sensations is undoubtedly, in our
view, the most important reason for home-smoking, the substantial cost savings which it offers
are certainly not to be sneezed at!
As a generalisation, home-smoked foods (as good as and often better than their store-bought
equivalents) can be produced for as little as one tenth – and seldom more than 30% – of the
cost of their commercial look-alikes.
The reason commercially prepared smoked foods are so expensive stems not only from the
opportunity for super-profits which smoking offers the commercial smoke-houses as a value-
added component to their standard food offerings. It's also because commercial smoking
involves a lot more expense and work!
A brief look at the supply chain economics of commercial food smoking will help to explain
this...
Let's take first, as an example, the food chain operations involved in converting a live chicken
(hopefully free-range!) to an uncooked, packaged bird in the refrigerated section of a
convenience store or supermarket.
The steps typically are:
30
1. Slaughter ...2. Plucking and Cleaning ...3. Packaging and Branding ...4. Refrigeration ...5.
Warehousing ...6. Transport to Retail Outlet ...7. In-store Merchandising.
Now consider the additional steps required in smoking:
1. Slaughter ...2. Plucking and Cleaning ...3. Refrigeration ...4. Warehousing ... 5. Transport
to Smokehouse ...6. Salting, Seasoning and Brining ...7. Smoking . 8. Packaging and
Branding ...9. Cold-store Warehousing ...10. Transport to Retail Outlet ...11. In-store
Merchandising.
The additional steps involved in Salting, Seasoning, Brining, Smoking, and a doubling-up of
transport and warehousing all involve substantial cost increments in labour, time, dedicated
facilities, energy consumption and double-handling.
It is these extra activities that we perform when we smoke food at home, and provided we
practise our smokehouse cookery as a labour of love (which most of us do) the incremental
monetary cost to us is purely nominal.
Ergo ... significant savings!
4. Food Preservation: A great Alternative to Freezing

Smoke, by contributing to the sealing of the outer layer of food which has been exposed to it
(and thus providing at least a partial barrier to bacterial infestation) has almost certainly been
used in the preservation and long-term storage of food since before earliest recorded history.
While a by-product of this process was undoubtedly a degree of flavouring imparted by the
smoke to the food, it is only in the last two centuries that there has been a marked upsurge in
the use of smoke, in combination with salt and other seasonings, primarily to impart flavour
and texture to an ever-widening range of foods.
The change has resulted in large measure from the discovery of refrigeration. In the developed
world this has meant that the necessity for smoke curing as a means solely of preserving food
has all but disappeared. (Although, in more primitive societies, it still is widely used!).
While there are elements (phenols, for example) in the smoke itself that inhibit bacterial
spoilage, the most important anti-bacterial effect of smoking food over a fire lies in the fact
that it is dried. Moisture is essential to the growth of the bacterial cultures which cause food
to spoil.
31
(In parts of the world where there is consistent sunlight combined with relatively little
humidity in the air, smoke can be dispensed with altogether, and food can be air-dried and/or
salt cured simply by hanging it in the sun, or in a cool, breezy place). Part 8, below, deals in
depth with dry-curing.
Cutting meat and fish into thin strips, and applying salt to it in order to accelerate the process
of leaching the moisture out of it, assists in and speeds up the drying process, and thus the
prevention of bacterial growth.
Right up to the middle of the nineteenth century, smoking and/or salting foods was central to
surviving the lean times of winter, and all the world's major navies relied on smoked or salt
meat (mainly pork) or salted fish, and dried biscuits, to feed their sailors over long periods at
sea.
Photos (l to r): Detail from: "Sailing-Ships"(c.1886-1890) – Constantinos Volanakis by

Tilemahos Ethimiadis; and A barrel and a few more by simon***: Flickr Creative Commons
All of this changed with the introduction of steam. Railways and steam-powered sea transport
meant that fresh produce could be moved from source to the major metropolitan markets and be
sold before it deteriorated. Smoking and curing meat and fish now moved away from the
primary need to preserve it to the more esoteric need to flavour it, resulting in a much lighter
smoking process and the use of not just salt but a wide variety of other seasonings to impart a
range of different tastes and flavours.
Although there is still a place for traditional smokehouses, consistent, large scale commercial
cold smoke curing was first made possible by the invention of the Torry kiln in the early part
of the twentieth century. The principle of inducing a draft of dry, smoke-laden air over the
food to be cured is central to all cold-smoking, and to most professional pit barbecue smoking
today, the only difference being that whereas the Torry relies on a mechanically-induced draft,
most home smokers rely on natural convection to move the air about.
.... Which brings us up to the present...
We and our friends and families are all passionate about the outdoors. Many of us are keen
anglers, and while most of us no longer hunt, we have friends who still do, and who routinely
give us some of the spoils of their outings – real treats in the smokehouse!
An ability to smoke one's own foods also has real practical significance when hiking or
32
camping rough.
Food which would otherwise spoil and go rotten can last for several days if it has been salted
and smoke-cured, using the simplest of equipment and techniques. We discuss these methods
and equipment in detail in Part 4, below.
Quite apart from the practical requirement of keeping food from spoiling while in the outdoors
or where refrigeration is for any reason not readily available, there are other reasons and
situations where an ability to smoke food at home is useful.
As mentioned earlier, when one's hunting and fishing friends donate a haunch of venison or a
side of a large game fish (yellow fin tuna, dorado, salmon or amberjack, for example) which is
more than can be used for a conventional cooked meal (or sometimes even a number of cooked
meals!) smoking is a good option.
These libations fall four-square into the category of gourmet foods, and it is little wonder that
they form the most expensive of commercially smoked eatables. (A single yellow fin tuna
reportedly sold recently in the Tokyo fish market for $1 million dollars!).
Rather than freezing (and in our view killing much of the nuance of flavour in the natural
product), we recommend salting, seasoning and smoking any surplus. Quite apart from
extending the (unfrozen) life of the food it converts a windfall into a treat!
5. Self-Fulfilment (and a Licence to Brag – a Little!).

We've already alluded to the hunter-gatherer, streak which we all of us, to some extent, still
share.
Home-smoking is a great way to give expression to these instincts, and the appreciation which
our home-smoked offerings can elicit is high reward for the relatively small effort they
involve.
Home smoked fish, sea-foods, patés, dips and terrines are enduring favourites of our family
and friends, and their appeal never palls, no matter how often they are offered.
Home smoking also offers a (generally inoffensive!) opportunity for "bragging" – not least
when it comes to hot smoking or barbecuing. The virtuoso pitmaster approaches his task with
all the verve of a conductor leading a symphony orchestra (and frequently not a lot less arm
33
movement, either!)
Competition between neighbourhood "barbecue kings" is often intense, where every
practitioner not only believes his recipe is the best out there but has no hesitation in trumpeting
his prowess to all who are prepared to listen to him! (Gender note: There are "barbecue
queens" as well, but their propensity for bragging is noticeably less! A testosterone thing,
perhaps?).
And, of course, there are those barbecue chefs who are happy simply and quietly to get on with
it!
Photo: The Chef by Bev Sykes (basykes): Flickr Creative Commons

Smoked foods, as we've mentioned, whether commercial or home-processed, tend to enjoy
gourmet status. A lovingly-prepared smoked offering placed before a gathering of friends is
invariably seen as a "treat" – particularly when it is something different from what is generally
available in the shops.
Finally, grilling – generally an outdoor activity – is in itself a very social, convivial means of
preparing food. Adding the dimension of smokiness, and the unique flavour barbecuing
imparts, is a really exciting extension of the general "outdoor experience."
CONCLUDING NOTE: Taste and flavour, cost considerations, the facility to preserve and
extend the unfrozen life of gourmet-labelled foods, and the opportunities for self expression
and a bit of generally harmless bragging are all good reasons for giving home smoking a shot –
or extending its scope into cold-smoking and curing if you're already well-versed in barbecue.
As you'll see in the next section, while it may qualify as an art form, it certainly isn't rocket
science!
In fact, it's a lot of fun!
See you in PART 2.
34
35
Photo Pitt's and Spitt's, Houston, Texas
1. Smokers and Smokehouses:
2. Commercially Produced or Home-Made?
3. Smokehouse Essentials
4. "From the Greatest to the Least... ": Pits to Stovetops.
4.1. SMOKERS FOR HOT-SMOKING AND BARBECUING
a. Barbecue Pits and Ovens
b. Cabinet, Vault or Box Smokers
c. General Purpose Gas and Charcoal Grills
d. Vertical and Water Smokers
e. Stove-Top Smokers and Smoker Boxes
4.1.1. "BUY NOW"....
- Specialised Pits and Ovens
- Cabinet, Vault or Box Smokers
- General Purpose Gas and Charcoal Grills
- Vertical and Water Smokers
- Smoker Boxes
- Stove-Top Smokers
36
4.1.2. MAKE YOUR OWN....
- Drummin' Up a Storm
- Permanent Pits, Vaults and Smoker Cabinets
4.2. COLD SMOKING ... EVEN SLOWER, AND EVEN LOWER!
4.2.1. SMOKERS FOR COLD-SMOKING AND CURING
- Commercial Pits, Ovens, Vaults and Cabinets
- Home-Built Smokehouses
Photo: Smoked Fish by dennis and aimee jonez: Flickr Creative Commons
1. Smokers and Smokehouses:
Central to all home-smoking is the container or chamber in which the food is to be smoked.
For the beginner, the choice can be positively daunting! Run a search in Google for "food
smokers" and you'll get some 81,100 results!
We need to bring some sort of order into all of this, and the first question we have to ask is
whether we want to "hot-smoke" or "cold-smoke" our foods – or both.
37
In both methods, a stream or a cloud of smoke is used to impart its unique flavour to the food.
And in both methods some heat is used to dry and reduce the moisture content of the food being
prepared (or to cook it).
In hot smoking (the "quick" method) sufficient heat is used to both cook AND flavour the food,
at temperatures ranging between 70 and 105 degrees Centigrade (160 to 220 degrees
Fahrenheit). (Pork, because of the importance of killing some of the nasties it sometimes
harbours, has to be hot-smoked to an internal temperature of at least 70 C (160 F) – which
means that, if it is going to be hot-smoked, to be safe it should be probably be smoked, for an
extended period of time, at above 82 C (180 F) and even as high as 100 C (210 F) if the
smoking time is relatively short).
A temperature for barbecuing and hot-smoking of between 70 and 93 degrees Centigrade (160
and 200 degrees Fahrenheit) is consistent with the "Low and Slow!" rule for all smoking.
However, as with all rules, there's an exception to prove it.
The one and only time temperatures as high as 138 C or even 150 C (280 to 300 F) are
recommended for barbecue is when the cut of meat being smoked is tender enough not to need
long smoking, or when only a light smokiness is required. Pork and beef fillets, or a large leg
or lamb, or rare rump steaks, are examples.
While hot-smoked foods will not keep for more than a day or two (unless they are refrigerated,
vacuum-packed, canned or frozen) hot smoking nonetheless remains the most versatile and
popular process for home-smoked food production.
Part of the appeal of hot-smoking, typified by barbecuing, is that at the relatively low
temperatures used in the process, tougher, sinewy cuts of meat can be used which would not be
suitable for grilling. Grilling requires tender portions like fillets or tenderloin, rump and other
prime steaks or chops to which a very high heat is applied so as to sear and brown the outside,
while leaving the insides rare and succulent. Hot-smoke barbecuing, on the other hand,
tenderises the tougher cuts of meat by more gradually breaking down resistant tissues at
significantly lower temperatures and over a significantly extended period of time.
Cold smoking, as its name implies, does not rely on cooking. The food is cured, rather than
cooked, by smoke-drying it at a temperature of approximately 32 C (90 F) over a prolonged
period, with the exact time determined partly by the nature of the food being smoked, partly by
the density or otherwise of the smoke itself, and partly by the amount of salt and other
seasonings used.
As a general rule, the longer the salt-and-smoke curing process, and the slower and lower the
application of heat, the longer the smoked food will keep. Smoked hams, for example, which
our forefathers traditionally cured by hanging them high up in the relatively cool smoke-stream
of the chimney breast above the hearth, would last for several weeks, if not months.
(Remember the Escape to River Cottage TV series run by the BBC, a few years ago, in which
38
Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall hung a number of home-grown hams in the chimney of his home?).
A further distinction between hot- and cold-smoking pertains to the degree of latitude and
flexibility each method permits in the smoking process. Hot-smoking, for example, gives a
generous amount of latitude in regard to temperature "spikes" providing they are short in
duration; whereas a sudden spike in temperature when cold-smoking can be disastrous. Cold-
smoking, on the other hand, is much more forgiving when it comes to time. Stretching five days
to six is often quite acceptable.
You win some and you lose some!
The time, and space, required by cold smoking makes it primarily suited to commercial
processes, for treating large quantities of smoked foods at a time. That said, however, it is a
process which can, with just a little effort and care, be very successfully replicated at home,
and it offers lots of latitude for variety, experimentation and gourmet food styling.
A second defining characteristic is whether the firebox or other heating source, and/or the
smoke generator is an integral part of the smoking chamber, or separate from it. Any of the
smoker types discussed below can adopt either of these options – with the stove-top smoker,
as we shall see, comprising an exceptional case.
An "offset smoker" is a typical example of a smoker where the firebox is separated from the
smoke chamber. "Offsets", as they are frequently called, are essentially two-part smokers,
with a firebox or smoke generator attached or linked to a smoking chamber rather than forming
an integral part of it. Smoke is drawn from the firebox into the smoke chamber, over the food
hanging or layered in grids in it, and thence vented out. Various venting arrangements can be
supplied, and the distance of the firebox from the smoke chamber is, preferably, adjustable.
A desirable feature for all types of smokers, but in particular for smokers used for hot-smoking
and BBQ, is the effectiveness of insulation and sealing provided. Smoke should ideally issue
only from the chimney or outlet vents provided, and the mark of a poor smoker is where it
visibly issues from the seal around the doors and connection points of the smoker.
Insulation is also important in providing the consistent, controllable temperatures which are so
important in good smokehouse cookery. As we shall see later, "insulation" can define the
high-tech insulating materials used in big-ticket commercial smokers – but it can also be
achieved by a variety of "natural" methods, like double-walling the smoke chamber (for
example by putting a smaller drum inside a larger one), enclosing it in brick, positioning the
smoker out of the wind and sun, and burying the smoke duct underground.
Another defining characteristic of a good smoker is the quality and thickness of the metal used
in its construction. The thicker the metal the better the heat retention and the more consistent
its dispersion. And some metals, like stainless and special steels like C3R12, resist corrosion
better than others, as well.
As to the shape of the smoker, as a general observation a circular design is more efficient than
39
a square one in dispersing smoke evenly. The difference, however, is not so big as to present
a major problem with square-profiled smokers, which have a number of plus features, not least
of them the ease of hinging and hanging access doors. This has particular significance for
home-built smokers, as we shall see in PART 10, below.
While it is not essential to provide automatic controls for the major functions of your smoker,
there are available today smokers which not only control temperature and cooking time
automatically, but also control the feed of fuels and the density and flow of the smoke. You get
what you pay for, but the real advantage of this degree of automation is that once you've loaded
your smoker and fired it up, you can leave it until it tells you the food is done.
2. Commercially Produced or Home-Made Equipment?

Commercially produced home smokers are available in everything from simple stove-top
smokers for uncomplicated, indoor hot-smoking of single meals, to full-on smoke pits, ovens
and cabinets for fairly large scale hot- and cold-smoked food production.
If you want to get going immediately, and if you have an open check book, a commercially
produced unit is probably the choice for you.
If money is a consideration, however, and particularly if you are good with your hands, there
are real cost savings, as well as a real satisfaction in putting together your own smoker,
barbecue pit or smokehouse at home – as we illustrate later.
A permanent, traditionally-constructed brick or wood-built smokehouse also has an aesthetic
appeal which is hard to match in a trailer-type pit or cabinet! (It's also a tad more difficult to
take with you, of course, on the competition circuit – or when you move house!)
Space Requirements
Regardless of whether you elect to go with a commercial unit, or something you make for
yourself, space considerations play a major part in the selection of your smoker.
Using a stove-top smoker it is perfectly feasible to produce hot-smoked foods in a small
terraced house or apartment. (Remember to use the stove's extractor to pull up any smoke that
escapes from the smoke-box, though!).
40
Photo: small gardens by Rachel Bernadette: Flickr Creative Commons
And there are a number of compact, vertical units which can be used in a loft garden or
apartment balcony for slightly more ambitious projects.
Generally, however, particularly if you're going to cold-smoke your food, or barbecue large
quantities, you'll need some free space out of doors to contain your smoke-pit, oven or
smokehouse. And you'll need a really generous amount of space if you're planning on
throwing a large Southern-style barbecue for a big bunch of friends or an extended family
gathering!
Photo: Almost Ready by dinner series: Flickr Creative Commons

One final consideration bears mentioning: that of portability.
If you own your home, and are planning to be in it long enough to see your children grow up
(and perhaps even have your grandchildren visit you) in it, you can consider a permanent,
brick-built pit or smokehouse. But if there's any possibility that you'll move in the reasonably
near future, you'll probably want to consider a pit or oven you can take with you.
We'll devote some consideration to both.
41
3. Smokehouse Essentials
The widely-held view (not least, unfortunately, among the suppliers of lower-end
commercially made smokers with rudimentary controls!) that smoking is more of an art than a
science is almost certainly over-stated.
Old-timers, with hundreds if not thousands of successful food smokes behind them, could
arguably produce gourmet-quality smoked products out of an old Players cigarette tin!
For us lesser mortals, though, consistently good, home food smoking requires at least two
reliable constants: a controlled heat, and a controlled volume and distribution of wood smoke.
And at least a modicum of technical exactitude in controlling and adjusting these two key
elements should be something you look for in any smoker you buy or make.
A number of technical design features are key to achieving these desired levels of control.
Among the most important are the distance of the firebox from the food to be smoked (and
ideally the ability to regulate and vary that distance), the shape and configuration of the smoker
itself, the positioning of the chimney or smoke outlet, the use of baffles and other means of
directing the flow of the smoke, a facility to view progress of the food cooking/smoking
process without losing too much heat or smoke, and ideally the provision of temperature
controls to regulate the heat source itself.
In combination, having all of these virtually takes the guesswork out of food smoking
altogether. Don't despair if they're not all available, though – as we've alluded to above,
they're not totally indispensable and a little bit of guesswork, intelligently applied, can work
well, too! (Just by way of a very rudimentary example, the denser the smoke the more smoke-
flavoured your food will be. Thus, for a light smoke flavour make sure that a light smoke
cloud is issuing from the smokehouse; similarly, if the cloud is too sparse, you'll know it's time
to add more wood!).
42
4. "From the Greatest to the Least... " Pits to Stovetops.
4.1. Smokers for Hot-Smoking and Barbecuing
a. Barbecue Pits and Ovens
According to Wikipedia, "most etymologists believe that barbecue derives from the word
barabicu found in the language of the Taíno people of the Caribbean and the Timucua of
Florida, and entered European languages in the form barbacoa. The word translates as "sacred
fire pit" (and) describes a grill for cooking meat, consisting of a wooden platform resting on
sticks".
The difference in flavour between food hot-smoked or barbecued in a pit or oven, and other
less space-hungry equipment, is akin to the difference between the sound produced by top-of-
the-range professional sound equipment and the sort of mid-range home sound set-up you can
buy in your discount appliance store – subtle, but profound!
Indigenous peoples around the world have for centuries used pits and log fires to smoke and
preserve their foods, and those of us who are old enough to have seen and remember them will
recall scenes from the first Hollywood westerns of meat and jerky or fish hanging in the smoke
of log fires in native American encampments.
Photo: Indian Camp courtesy of Rexburg Historical Society (Yellow River Valley): Flickr
Creative Commons
43
The early pioneers and settlers in many parts of the New World followed suit, burning logs in
long open trenches, and hanging food in the cooler smoke which was generated when the fire
had banked down. Their legacy persists across the US, most particularly in the "barbecue
belt" comprising the area bounded by Texas and Oklahoma to the west; by the Gulf of Mexico
to the south; by the Atlantic seaboard to the east; and by Virginia, Missouri and Kentucky to the
north.
Logs were preferred over chips and wood dust, because they took longer to burn down, and
produced a consistent, denser smoke over a longer period – an important consideration for
communities who needed to smoke food overnight, without having continually to tend the fire.
Experimentation in these early days soon established that containing the smoke – initially by
constructing a "roof" of tightly interlaced green branches, or a burlap "tent" over the open fire
– enhanced the whole smoking process.
And from here it was a simple evolutionary step to producing a pit or oven with a bespoke lid
which could be closed down to contain the smoke, control the heat and limit the "flaring"
which takes place when fat drips onto open coals. Further enhancements saw the fire being
removed from directly under the food being cooked, and the introduction of chimneys or vents
positioned as far from the fire as possible in order to improve the flow of smoke.
Variable damping devices, baffles, flexible fire boxes and a whole raft of other enhancements
followed, but the basics held constant – a small number of logs in a fire which is located some
distance away from the smoke chamber, and a controlled draft to draw the smoke over the food
being processed. Like a good, old-fashioned, brick chimney, the better the basic design the
lower the need for technical add-ons.
Perhaps the most important enhancements or innovations in home smoking were to move the
"pit" from below the ground to above it, either as a permanent structure or as a mobile "oven";
and to offer gas, electricity or charcoal as alternatives to wood for the heating (but obviously
not the smoke generation) component of the process.
All of these mean that the length of time required to bring the smokehouse up to its operating
temperature will vary enormously, with electric- and gas-heated smokers the fastest, and log-
fired pits the slowest. Other variables include the prevailing climatic conditions and the
dryness of the wood or other combustible fuels being used.
Air temperature, particularly variable when the smoker is parked or located in the sun, can
significantly affect smoking times. Wind can be even more of a factor, not only on the outside
of the smoker, but also affecting the inside if venting is not carefully controlled.
Today, modern travel and the Internet have contributed to a widening, global popularity of the
barbecue. The ultimate flavour experience has to be food smoked in a wood-fired pit.
However, electricity in particular offers advantages in the amount of space required, the
absolute control over temperature which it allows and the minimal amount of attention it
44
requires – all of which are important considerations. (Running out of charcoal in the middle of
a "smoke" can be traumatic, and even disastrous!)
Photo Bradley Smoker, Delta, BC Canada

Like Vertical, or Water Smokers (below), in essence a box smoker is a round-cylindrical,
square or rectangular box containing a heat source in the bottom and a cooking chamber in the
top. In high-end smokers, the heat source can be provided separately from the smoke chamber
as an "offset", which significantly improves temperature control.
Top end box smokers are capable of producing large quantities of consistently good hot-
smoked and barbecued foods over a prolonged life span. While they are considerably higher-
priced than their lower end counterparts, what they sacrifice in cost savings they more than
make up in dependability and ease of use, as witness the fact that many are used on the
barbecue competition circuit.
Many of the lower end box smokers sold in the mass outlet stores are actually inferior to the
better vertical water smokers at a comparable, and sometimes even a lower price.
The important features to look for in a good box smoker are, firstly, the insulation. Really
adequate insulation means that fluctuations in outdoor temperatures, or when it rains or snows,
have minimal effect on the ability to control and maintain a consistent heat inside the smoker.
45
Next in importance, going hand-in-hand with insulation, is a really well fitting door – one
which remains well-fitting no matter how many times the smoker is used.
Finally, you should look for a smoker made from good, thick metal which won't buckle or
corrode – stainless or C3R12 ideally, although stove-enamelled or plated is also good.
CONCLUDING NOTE: While there are a number of excellent barbecue pit, box smokers
and oven manufacturers (we list some of them later in this section) for a long time serious
barbecue aficionados had to make their own – and many on the competition circuit still do!
We'll show you how later in the book....
c. General Purpose Gas and Charcoal Grills

A distinguishing feature of all special purpose pits, ovens and cabinets, regardless of whether
they are home-made or store-bought, is the provision of an adjustable firebox, or some other
means of providing the constant, moderate temperatures necessary for really successful
smoking.
Alternatively, sufficient length must be provided in the design of the pit itself to allow for the
fire to be placed at discretionally variable distances from the food to be smoked.
While it is possible to barbecue and hot smoke in a gas or charcoal grill, it is much more
challenging because, in the absence of an adjustable firebox, maintaining a constant low
temperature becomes much more of a hit and miss procedure, as well as requiring constant
attention.
To adapt a conventional grill for hot-smoking several techniques can be employed in order to
achieve the right combination of a consistent low heat and a good supply of smoke.
To start with, you'll need to soak your wood chips in water , beer or wine (for about 10 to 30
minutes) before placing them on the charcoal or gas, in order to slow down the rate of
combustion and also to produce an acceptable amount of smoke.
Particularly in the case of gas grills it's advisable to put pre-soaked wood chips in a smoker
box to prevent a build-up of ash in the grill, and to minimise the risk that it will clog up the
burners.
46
Photo Char-Broil, a division of W.C.Bradley Co, Columbus, Georgia
In charcoal fires, specifically, a useful tip in controlling the typical bell-curve of heat build-up
is to light a small pile of maybe three or four briquettes or coals in the centre of the fire-bed,
and allow the fire to spread outward from this starter heap to a wider ring of unlit coals or
briquettes surrounding it. It also helps to have a well-fitting lid to the smoke chamber, with a
good seal, and to ensure that it is correctly seated whenever you lift and replace the lid –
which ideally should only be to add more wood or charcoal when strictly necessary.
As an alternative to placing your pre-soaked wood chips in a smoker box, you can wrap them
in a piece of aluminium foil and then punch a number of holes in its upper surface.
To prevent flaring, a tray of water is typically placed under the food, which also keeps it moist
as the water releases moisture and steam.
In the case of a gas grill, once you've achieved the required approximate operating
temperature, it's relatively easy to maintain it simply by adjusting the gas feed to the burner.
Most charcoal kettle grills nowadays have vent controls, and you'll need to stop them down
almost to a closed position when using the grill as a smoker in order to starve the coals of air
and so control the temperature.
Finally, it is advisable – if not essential! – to use a reliable temperature gauge or thermometer,
and refer to it often. (We look at different means of temperature monitoring and adjustment
later).
47
Photo Weber Stephen Products LLC

Weber, RapidFire, and Smokey Mountain Cooker (illustrated above) are registered U.S.
trademarks of Weber-Stephen Products LLC.
Their compact size and low price make vertical or water smokers the highest selling home
smokers on the market. Widely available through a range of sales outlets, they can
nevertheless be made at home, as well.
Boiled down to basics, a vertical smoker is made up of three elements, with a heat source at
the bottom, a water pan in the middle, and a food smoking chamber at the top.
Heat is generated by charcoal, gas burners or an electric heating element. The water pan
serves a fourfold function in moderating the direct heat from the heat source, storing heat in the
water, preventing food in the smoke chamber from drying out, and avoiding the potentially
carcinogenic smoke which is generated when fat falls directly onto and flares up on open
coals.
Basic operation is simple:, place wood chips, wood pellets, small chunks or sawdust on or in
contact with the heat source, layer the food to be smoked on the racks provided, fill the pan
with water, put on the cover, and fire it up!.
The major advantage of vertical smokers is that they take up very little space. This makes
them ideally suited to tightly defined areas like apartment balconies, loft gardens and small
patios.
48
They consume relatively little fuel or energy. And they are among the least expensive
"serious" smokers on the market, starting as low as around $39.
The small size can also, however, be a disadvantage. For a start, the amount of food that can
be smoked at a sitting is limited.
Considering that the smoke time can often be 12 hours, or longer, for a brisket, you really want
to be able to smoke a decent quantity at one time to make it feel worthwhile.
A further disadvantage is that while most smokers are provided with two food trays, in order
to get to the food on the lower tray, for example to mop or baste it, you have first to lift off the
top tray – which can be awkward if it carries a layer of smoked goodies!
A shortcoming common to most designs is that every time you lift the lid, you lose both smoke
and heat.
The most serious limiting factors, though, are firstly that many of these smokers have very
limited provision for temperature control, and secondly that the moist cooking process tends to
keep some of the most popular barbecue cuts, like pork ribs and brisket, unacceptably fatty.
To get a crisped, crackly offering, you will probably have to remove the water pan for at least
the closing stages of the cooking process, or place the food under the grill to finish it off.
On balance, however, the advantages of vertical and water smokers, particularly where space
is limited, significantly outweigh their disadvantages, and while they may not be suitable for
the exacting demands of the competition circuit, they are eminently useful for most home hot-
smoking requirements.
e. Stove-Top Smokers and Smoker Boxes

While they share the common characteristic of being the smallest and generally least expensive
of all smoking devices, they differ in that Stove-top Smokers are self contained units whereas
Smoker Boxes are strictly speaking smoke accessories designed to be used with kettle and
other conventional grilling equipment as a convenient means of adding a hot-smoking facility
to the grill.
Both are available commercially, and both can be easily made at home.
- Smoker-boxes
49
Smoker boxes typically comprise a container for the smoke medium (generally well-soaked
wood chips) with a perforated lid through which the smoke can issue. For convenience, the lid
is frequently hinged. The smoker box is placed on or immediately adjacent to the heat source
(usually charcoal or gas) and under the grid of the grill.

Once smoke starts issuing through the perforations in the lid, the food to be smoked is placed
on the grid so it is enveloped by the smoke, and the lid or cover of the grill is closed.
Smoker boxes for gas grills are often provided with a triangular, wedge-shaped container for
the wood chips, the wedge being designed to sit between the burners of the gas unit for the
most effective heating.
When buying a smoker-box, there are two important things to look out for. It's important,
firstly, that the perforations in the lid are neither too numerous, nor too large. If smoke billows
out too quickly, it can yield acrid results.
The other important feature to look for is the thickness of metal used in the tray containing the
wood chips. Thin gauge metal heats up too quickly, and develops hot spots. The best unit we
have seen has a solidly-forged cast iron tray, which is slow to heat, and which enables the
chips to smoulder for an extended period of time. The resulting quality of smoke gives a good,
non-acrid flavour, the unit is easy to clean, and it resists corrosion notwithstanding long and
repeated use.
Where smoker boxes most generally draw bad press is because they can require a lot of heat to
get the wood chips smoking – which flies contrary to the golden rule in barbecuing – "Low and
Slow". Here again, a box with good thick metal sides, once it's up to heat, enables you to
reduce the heat in the burners and rely to a degree on the stored heat in the smoker-box itself.
It's not the "real thing", but a smoker box does a reasonable job of providing a hot-smoking
facility in a conventional grill!
- Stove-Top Smokers:
Stove-Top Smokers, like the more compact of the vertical and water smokers, provide a way
for apartment and loft occupants to home-smoke food where space constraints would prevent
50
them from using any other form of smoking equipment.
Photo Cameron Products, Colorado Springs, Colorado

Even where there's space sufficient for a large pit or box smoker, many smoked food
aficionados have a stove-top smoker as well, for the quick 'n easy, one-meal, convenience it
offers.
Because they cook at a significantly higher temperature, and because their smoking time is
essentially constrained to one charge of sawdust, they're not ideal for true barbecue with its
core requirement of "low and slow". But for a quick-smoked meal of fish, chicken, sausage
and most vegetables they do a more than adequate job. And they're great for bite-sized
appetisers when all you need is a few tasty starters to get a party going!
You can partially offset the limitations imposed by a single charge of sawdust or chips by
varying the type of wood used. Reference to our table of smoking woods, below, will show
which woods give a light smoke, and which a heavier smoke.
Stove-top cookers typically consist of a bottom container and a tightly fitting lid. In the better
models, the smoke in the bottom of the container is separated from the food in the top of it by a
tray or baffle which collects the drippings from the food being smoked, and also serves as a
means of distributing the smoke evenly through the gap formed between the baffle and the inner
walls of the container.
The importance of having a well-sealing lid is not only that it improves the permeation of the
food by the smoke that is generated, but also that when used indoors you really don't want to
have too much smoke circulating through the kitchen – and further through the rest of the house!
(It goes without saying that you should use the extractor fan on your stove, and place the
smoker as directly under it as possible).
Whether you use some easily acquired kitchen bits and pieces to make your own stove-top
smoker, or buy one of the excellent smokers widely available in the stores, there are a few tips
and warnings that are worth keeping in mind.
51
It's very important to "run in" your smoker by firing it up (with smoke!) a couple of times
before you first use food in it. This will burn off any paint, oxidants, plating or other chemical
residues left over from the manufacturing process.
It's also important to have just enough heat to generate smoke without having too much. We've
found that with a little bit of experience, you can get a feel if things are going too fast by patting
the top of the lid with a quick motion of the hand, to test the temperature.
Stove-top smokers typically use sawdust and small chips, as opposed to wood chunks. As
with all smoking methods it's important to use the right dust and chips. The golden rule is
never to use softwoods, resinous woods, or sawdust and chips that are contaminated with paint
or varnish or from wood which has been treated against borer infection.
When using sawdust, it's also very important not to use too much! As a rule of thumb, a
tablespoon of dust in the tray bottom is generally more than enough, and will prevent the food
from tasting bitter. When using gas or an electric ring, a useful tip is to try to distribute the
dust over the bottom of the pan so it's concentrated over the burners underneath it. (A more
generalized distribution of the sawdust is fine when charcoal is used as the heating medium!).
Stove-top smokers also act, to a degree, as steamers, making them particularly suitable for
fish, chicken breasts and other drier meat cuts.
A tip from one stove-top smoker manufacturer relates to smoking large items like whole
turkeys, hams and briskets. This, it's claimed, can be done by simply forming a "tent" of
aluminium foil in substitution for the smoker lid. To contain the smoke, the edges of the foil
can be pegged to the rim of the smoker with wooden (don't use plastic!) clothes pegs, to ensure
a good seal.
In practice, we've found while this is feasible, it's not terribly practical. Forming a tent that
not only keeps its shape, but also effectively contains smoke is not as easy as it sounds. And
for really large cuts of meat or poultry, a single charge of sawdust is just not generally enough
– which means you have to take the "tent" down, re-erect it, and build up heat again each time
you recharge with sawdust!
As a final cautionary note, it's very important if you have a flat-top, glass or ceramic-topped
stove to check the manufacturer's instructions to ensure that you can use a utensil such as a
smoker with an under-surface that covers more than the area of the heating element with which
it is in contact. Ignoring these instructions could not only prove dangerous, but will almost
certainly void the stove manufacturer's warranty.
52
4.1.1. "BUY NOW"....
In considering some of the leading suppliers of commercial barbecue pits and ovens there's
one piece of advice we would like to offer – unless you intend grilling AND hot-smoking or
barbecuing AND cold smoking on a regular basis, you may be better off with a smoker which
handles one of these functions exclusively and well, than with a "combination" unit.
The heat, smoke and space requirements of each of these food preparation methods are vastly
different. Cold smoking, for example, can be very effectively achieved in a wooden
smokehouse structure because of the very low heat this method requires, whereas the higher
heat needed for hot-smoking and barbecuing, and the very high heat levels required for grilling,
dictate metal units – in the latter case a heavy gauge metal, preferably stainless.
A "one-case-fits-all" device, because it has to cater for the highest heat levels needed by
grilling, will generally be over-engineered for hot-smoking and even more so for cold-
smoking. Covering all your bets, while notionally appealing, can be an unnecessarily
expensive option – although there are some very good multi-purpose devices on the market.
a. Specialised Pits and Ovens

Following is a short list (among many) of leading suppliers whose products are specifically
designed for smoking foods, and which consistently garner high review ratings in the barbecue
forums and review groups. Our blog, http://homesmokedfoods.com is currently under
construction, but should be ready at or shortly after publication, for links, and further
information.
BBQ Pits by Klose, Houston, Texas, offers as a feature of all the BBQ Pits in their extensive
53
catalogue that every pit is "made by hand, with no machinery involved in the manufacturing
process except a welding machine, in the spirit of the old style iron foundries. One welder to
one pit from the beginning to the finished product. Handmade all the way." Their catalogue
features "hundreds of sizes and styles, including Wood, Charcoal, Gas-fired Grills, Smokers,
Cook-off & Catering Wagons, & Concession Trailers. Custom Cookers include Chuck-
Wagons, Beer-Bottle & Pistol Smokers, Trains, & Pits made out of Automobiles, Etc."
Pictured below are their Model 2013 all stainless backyard smoker (left) and their 20x36
Square Smoker, built-in, (right).
Photos BBQ Pits by Klose, Houston, Texas

Char-Broil, a division of W.C.Bradley Co, Columbus, Georgia is a long-established outdoor
cooking brand. Char-broil grills and smokers are distributed across the United States and
Canada, as well as throughout Latin America and Australia. Distributors include Wal-Mart,
and as might be expected the price of Char-Broil Vertical and Offset Smokers is significantly
more affordable than that charged by some of the bespoke and custom-built manufacturers.
Char-Broil's Offset Smoker 1280 is pictured below:
54
Gator Pit of Texas, LP, a third Houston-based manufacturer! have featured in a number of
media, and food channels including an episode of the Hairy Bikers on the History Channel,
Texas Monthly Magazine, Better Homes and Gardens, Home and Family, BBQ Masters and
others, and their products have won a number of awards. Pictured below is their traditional
smoker
Photo Gator Pit of Texas, LP

Jambopits, Fort Worth, Texas cater for enthusiasts and serious competitors on the barbecue
competition circuit (owner Jamie Geer, a star on TLC's BBQ Pitmasters TV Series, has a shelf
full of trophies himself!). All Jambo Pits are custom built, and their unique designs and
attention to detail ensure that they don't go unnoticed in a crowd. They also offer a "backyard
model" (pictured below) which is definitely worth considering for the home BBQ chef.
Photo Jambopits, Fort Worth, Texas

Medina River Outdoors by HEW Products offers a small range of smokers, at reasonable
prices. Pictured below is their Medina River Outdoors 67 Jumbo Smoker/Grill Combo:
55
Photo Medina River Outdoors by HEW Products
Pitt's and Spitt's, in Houston, Texas offer high end products whose features include heavy
duty steel plate, corrosion-resistant stainless steel parts, offset fireboxes, water trays, accurate
industrial quality thermometers, and effective smoke containment and distribution. Their Pitts
and Spitts Ultimate Smoker 24 x 36 is pictured below:
Photo Pitt's and Spitt's, Houston, Texas

Texas Pit Crafters , Houston, Texas is one of a number of bespoke, high-end manufacturers.
Claimed features in their products include the use of either carbon steel or high grade 304
stainless steel, and a hood design that maximises the cooking area and ensures controlled
temperature settings while either smoking or grilling. (This is another grill/smoker
combination which merits consideration as a combination device). Their PM 100 smoker is
rated as their most popular model:
Yoder Smokers, Kansas, are big on the competition circuit, but their prices are not wildly out
of line for the serious backyard smoker. Picture here is what they call "the Swiss Army Knife
of barbecue pits", their DURANGO 20" Smoker, which will slow smoke sausages, cheese,
56
fish and jerky in the vertical chamber, and conventional barbecue in the horizontal smoke box:
Photo Yoder Smokers, Kansas

Following is a short list of leading suppliers whose products are specifically designed for
smoking foods, and which consistently garner high review ratings in the barbecue forums and
review groups.
Backwoods Smoker: Backwoods Smokers have won a raft of major competitions, including
Memphis in May, the American Royal, and the Jack Daniels Invitational. A feature of all
Backwoods Smokers is their BBQ Guru fan control system that is claimed to allow you to "Set
and Forget" the temperature in your pit. Their FATBOY, pictured below, is offered as a
versatile cooker that can be easily transported for competition and catering.
57
Photo Backwoods Smoker
Bradley Smoker, Delta, BC Canada offers a range of aesthetically attractive, reasonably-
priced and very good quality electric smokers suitable for hot and cold smoking, but also for
use as a slow cooker or a slow roasting oven. Bradley Smokers use proprietary "bisquettes"
made from compressed hardwood chips, which are fed by an automatic feed mechanism as and
when the fire needs them. The bisquettes are offered in a range of hardwood "flavours".
Pictured below is the Bradley Original Electric Smoker Model BS 611, which offers control
over both temperature and time.

Later digital electric smokers from Bradley add smoke control to the time and temperature
controls of the original model, which enables you to determine and control not only how long,
and at what temperature you want your food to be smoked, but also the density of the smoke
58
cloud itself.
In common with a small, but apparently growing, number of other manufacturers, Bradley also
offer as an accessory a cold smoke adapter (pictured below, centre) which attaches between
the smoke tower and the generator (also pictured, below left) with a flexible aluminium tube
that allows the smoke to cool down before it reaches your food, enabling you to do a true cold
smoke. This unit fits onto all Bradley 4 and 6 rack Smokers, as illustrated, below right.
Photos Bradley Smoker, Delta, BC Canada

Cookshack, Ponca City, Oklahoma, concentrates its main line of business on the manufacture
of commercial, large-scale, industrial barbecue equipment, but it also has a growing range of
"residential" models for home use, which are electric-powered, and which use wood chunks
as the smoke medium. For really easy, hassle-free, smoked barbecuing the range has a great
deal going for it. Features include electronic temperature controllers, with a meat probe and
space enough to hold full slabs of ribs and whole briskets. The oven is tightly sealed, and
once you've loaded it and fired it up you don't have to touch it again until the food is done!
Pictured below is the Cookshack Supersmoker Elite:
Photo Cookshack Inc., Ponca City, Oklahoma

Fast Eddy's, Cookshack Inc., Ponca City, Oklahoma offer, as a good representation of their
59
products, the Model FEC100 (pictured below) which is 100% wood-burning, and pellet-fired,
with a Cookshack IQ4 electronic control system. Solidly constructed, and well-insulated, with
a well-sealing door, the FEC 100 has won many competitions for its inventor Ed "Fast Eddy"
Maurin and a host of other well-known professional BBQ competition cooks, but is also
priced reasonably enough to make it a strong contender for backyard barbecue enthusiasts with
a nose for quality.
Photo Fast Eddy's, Cookshack Inc., Ponca City, Oklahoma

Hasty-Bake Charcoal Ovens, Tulsa, Oklahoma offers a range of charcoal grill/oven/smokers
which are effective in all three of these options. Their versatility is in part owing to the fact
that the firebox is adjustable, allowing you to vary the heat by lowering or raising the firebox,
and partly due to the provision of a side-loading fuel door through which wood and charcoal
can be introduced, and topped up, without having to raise the lid or risk losing heat. Pictured
below is their Suburban 414 Charcoal Grill:
60
Photo Hasty-Bake Charcoal Ovens, Tulsa, Oklahoma
MasterBuilt, Columbus, Georgia offer a 30 inch digital electric vertical Smoker with viewing
window (pictured below) which features RF (radio frequency) remote control of temperature,
time, internal light and power on/off, in addition to monitoring time, smoker temperature and
meat temperature
Photo MasterBuilt Columbus, Georgia

Also from MasterBuilt is their cold smoking kit, pictured below, for smoking sausage, fish,
bacon and even cheese! The Electric Cold Smoker Kit attaches to the wood chip loading port
of all MasterBuilt electric smokers, and provides continuous smoke for up to 6 hours at
temperatures as low as 38°C to 49°C (100°F to 120°F):
61
Photo MasterBuilt, Columbus, Georgia
Pitmaker BBQ Vault . Pitmaker, Houston Texas offer, make a range of custom-built BBQ
trailers, backyard BBQ smoker pits, and BBQ grills that use wood, gas and charcoal as a fuel
source. Among other cited features, they offer a ¾" gasket on the firebox, and a completely
sealing door. The body is double-walled, with ⅛"thick welded, seamless, steel, and insulated
with high-tech, ceramic wool insulation on all six walls. The firebox is provided with a slide-
out grate for easy cleaning and convenience. Pictured below is their BBQ Safe Smoker, with
wheels:
Photo Pitmaker BBQ Vault, Houston Texas

Stump's Vertical Smokers , Stump's Smokers, Centerville, Georgia. Cookin' with Stump.com
have won an impressive list of competitions, the most recent at the time of going to press being
Grand Champion at Plains Pig Pickin'. Features cited among others include the fact that being
gravity fed their smokers give longer, more consistent cook times along with very even
temperatures. As charcoal in the burner box is heated, the "burn-off" then falls into the flavour
generator box located below the fire grate, and refilling is a matter of simply opening the chute
door and adding more charcoal. A dedicated valve coupled to a high-quality thermometer
gives precision heat control and doors are sealed with a high temp washable tadpole gasket.
62
The interior of each unit is solid welded 14 gauge metal and packed with over 50 square feet
of 1800 degree insulation. Pictured below is their "BABY" vertical smoker.
Photo Stump's Smokers, Centerville, Georgia
c. General Purpose Electric, Gas and Charcoal Grills

Following is a short list of leading suppliers whose products are specifically designed for
combined barbecue and food smoking, and which consistently garner high review ratings in the
barbecue forums and review groups. Our blog, http://homesmokedfoods.com is currently
under construction, but should be ready at or shortly after publication, for links, and further
information:
Grills of this type offer both direct and indirect cooking options. The latter method (which is
the one to use for smoking) is characterised by either placing the food to one side of the fire, or
by locating the food in the centre of the grill and arranging the fire in a donut configuration
underneath it. Direct and indirect cooking are further differentiated by the fact that in the
former case the lid is generally left open, while indirect heating requires the lid to be left on.
63
Brinkmann, The Brinkmann Corporation, Dallas, Texas. Manufacturers of the Remington
brand of hunting and fishing gear, Brinkmann also manufacture a range of outdoor cookers and
smokers, like their All-In-One Gas & Charcoal Single Burner Smoker, Grill & Fryer Model #
810-5000-00(pictured below):
Photo The Brinkmann Corporation, Dallas, Texas

Landmann, one of Europe's largest suppliers of barbecues, accessories and charcoal/
briquettes is both increasingly well-represented in the USA, and well-rated in user reviews.
Pictured below is their BLACK DOG® BD42 XT Charcoal Grill:
Photo Landmann
MasterBuilt, Columbus, Georgia offer a 7-in-1 Smoker and Grill (pictured below) which
features frying, steaming, boiling, gas grilling, gas smoking, charcoal grilling, and charcoal
smoking – all in one product:
64

One of the devices which might arguably come closest to addressing all of the disadvantages
posed by conventional charcoal and gas grills in their ability to hot-smoke food, is the Weber
Smokey Mountain Smoker. Control vents in both the lid and the base of the smoker help
significantly in regulating the heat and smoke cloud.
Following is a short list (among a large number) of suppliers of vertical and water smokers
whose products are well-rated in the barbecue forums and review groups Our blog,
http://homesmokedfoods.com is currently under construction, but should be ready at or shortly
after publication, for links, and further information:
Brinkmann, The Brinkmann Corporation, Dallas Texas, mentioned above, also provides a
range of charcoal, gas and electric vertical and water smokers like their GOURMET Electric
Smoker and Grill (below)
65
Photo The Brinkmann Corporation, Dallas Texas
Broil King, Onward Manufacturing Company Limited, Ontario, Canada claims to be the largest
supplier of gas grills to Canadian homes, with a wide presence in the USA and Europe, as
well. The quality and aesthetic attention to detail characterising their products is evident in the
picture (below) of their Broil King Gas Regal 440:
Photo Onward Manufacturing Company Limited, Ontario, Canada

Char-Broil, a division of W.C. Bradley Co, Columbus, Georgia offers very affordable
products through a wide distribution network. Pictured below is their Electric Vertical
Smoker Model 11201677:
66
Weber Grills and Accessories , Weber-Stephen Products LLC, Palatine Illinois. The Weber
Smokey Mountain Smoker, pictured below, in common with other Weber kettle grills is
provided with control vents in both the lid and the base of the smoker. The venting control is
probably the reason why the Weber is one of very few vertical water smokers used by
competitors on the barbecue competition circuits:
Photo Weber-Stephen Products LLC

67
e. Smoker-boxes:
Smoker boxes are widely available from the big chains, like Wal Mart, and also from a range
of bespoke outdoor goods suppliers and bespoke outdoor outfitters.
Following is a short list of leading suppliers who consistently rank high in user ratings. There
are many more. Our blog, http://homesmokedfoods.com is currently under construction, but
should be ready at or shortly after publication, for links, and further information:
Char-Broil, a division of W.C.Bradley Co, Columbus, Georgia offers an enormous range of
smokers and smoker accessories. Pictured below is their cast iron smoker box, indispensable
in converting a grill into a barbecue smoker:

Charcoal Companion, The Companion Group, Berkeley, California offers smoker-boxes
suitable for charcoal, gas-fired and electric grills. A wide range of V-shaped Smoker boxes
for gas grills, as pictured below, are offered:
68
Photo Charcoal Companion, The Companion Group, Berkeley, California
f. Stove-Top Smokers
Two manufacturers seem to garner most of the favourable user recommendations, Camerons in
the US and ABU Garcia in Europe and the former British colonies (although both brands are
globally recognised). Others are listed below. Our blog, http://homesmokedfoods.com is
currently under construction, but should be ready at or shortly after publication, for links, and
further information:
ABU Smokers, ABU Garcia, Pure Fishing (a subsidiary of Jarden Corporation). Millions of
ABU smokers have been sold around the world. Originating in Sweden, the smokers range
from a small, single tray unit to a larger, double-sectioned unit, in either enamelled or plain
stainless steel. Easy to clean, they come with a mesh grill on which the food to be smoked is
laid, a burner and stand, a smoke convector/diffuser and a close-fitting, sliding lid which
effectively contains the smoke and moisture generated in the smoking process. Heat is
provided by a spirit burner, although the unit can be operated on the stove top, as well.
Photo ABU Garcia, Pure Fishing (a subsidiary of Jarden Corporation
69
Camerons Original Stovetop Smoker, Camerons Products, Colorado Springs, Colorado.
Camerons and ABU are household names, with Camerons arguably to America what ABU is to
Great Britain and Europe. Pictured here is an exploded view of their SMK Stovetop Smoker:

Nordic Ware Nordic Ware, Minneapolis, MN features a kettle-type stovetop smoker with a
sleek exterior and a domed cover high enough to accommodate whole chickens and roasts.
Made of heavy gauge aluminized steel, the kit (pictured below) includes a perforated tray,
liquid tray, base, thermometer, two types of wood chips and lid:
Photo Nordic Ware, Minneapolis, MN

The Max Burton Stovetop Smoker, (pictured below, is widely available through the chains
and discount stores, and looks very similar to the Camerons, but is somewhat less expensive:
70
... and for Something Different...
Emson, The Emsco Group: The Emson Gourmet Smoker/Cooker (pictured below) claims to
be the only appliance to combine pressure cooking with pressure smoking. According to their
sales copy, internal pressure increases by 15 psi, cooking food up to 70% faster while causing
wood chips to release their flavour-enhancing smoke. The device has had consistently good
reviews.
Photo The Emsco Group

The Smoker/Cooker is available in 5qt and 7qt sizes, and claims the ability to cold smoke
foods like fish and cheeses. The internal chamber requires only three to five wood chips to
infuse authentic barbecue smoke flavour into food.
Generally, the more wood chips placed into the cup the stronger the smoke flavour will be in
the food being cooked. The more time used to cook meat in the appliance, the tenderer the meat
becomes.
71
4.1.2. MAKE YOUR OWN....
A well-constructed, top end commercial pit, vault, box or cabinet smoker suitable for
backyard use will cost anywhere between $1500 and $3500 - and up! Treated with due care,
a unit like this should last a lifetime, and for the serious lover of barbecues it represents a
good investment in terms – if nothing else! – of the satisfaction which good equipment always
confers.
But it's still an awful lot of money! For those on a budget, who don't want to compromise, and
who are reasonably good with their hands, a good alternative is to make a unit for yourself.
What follows is a general overview of the factors which merit consideration if you
contemplate building your own. More detailed construction details, materials and assembly
instructions, are covered in PART 10, below.
a. Drummin' Up a Storm...
For many serious barbecuers, their foray into DIY grilling was by way of cutting a 200litre (44
gallon) steel drum in half, longitudinally, turning the half drum on its side, and then positioning
a grid on top of, or just below, the lip of the drum.
In this configuration, the drum is better suited to grilling than it is to smoking, but by hinging the
other half of the drum to form a domed lid, and by making a log fire at one end of the drum, and
smoking the food at the other, perfectly acceptable smoked bluefish, chickens and pork
shoulders could be produced. They wouldn't have gotten through the starting gates at a BBQ
competition, but they served as a useful introduction to a whole new way of preparing food.
Grids were scavenged out of discarded stoves or refrigerators, or welded up out of
engineering footplate mesh, and drawer handles from the local hardware store served as
handles for the lid. (It helped to remember to wear an oven glove before attempting to grab the
handle! 82 C (180 F) may not be a high cooking temperature but you only have to grab it once
to know it's not a comfortable temperature to expose bare flesh to!).
Legs were formed out of angle iron or square steel tubing, and the drum was typically slung in
a half-hoop cradle of flat bar mounted on the leg frame.
Standing the barrel on end, and cutting off the lid instead of cutting the barrel longitudinally in
half not only did away with the need for legs, by putting the food trays at a comfortable
working height, but it also placed them directly above – and at a comfortable distance away
72
from – the log fire at the bottom of the barrel.
This represented a step back in terms of grilling, but a huge improvement in terms of the hot-
smoking necessary for a genuine barbecue.
To contain the smoke, the lid could either be hinged or a cleaned-up metal dustbin lid
(conveniently pre-fitted with a handle) which embraced and shrouded the top edge of the
barrel could be brought into service. Food could either be laid on one or more grids resting on
pins driven through the side walls of the barrel, or hung on hooks from bars across its width.
To meet with the "Low and Slow" prescription for true barbecuing, a number of approaches to
distancing the fire from the cooking chamber were developed. Probably the most simple was
to cut open the bottom of the drum. A log fire could then be made in a pit, and the bottom of
the drum placed over it.
Leaving the bottom of the drum intact, and then drilling a series of holes in it, improved both
the cooling and the distribution of the smoke into the cooking chamber.
A second barrel, or a section of one, could be used to fashion an offset firebox. Typically, a
section of flue, as supplied with wood burning stoves, was brought into service to link the
firebox to the smoking chamber, with other wood stove components used to provide firebox
doors, baffles and dampers.
What served the first home-smoke DIY'ers in the mid 1900's still serves today. Drums are
easily obtainable, at little or no cost. And appliance repair shops will often be happy to have
you take unwanted refrigerator and stove grids off their hands for nothing. Wood stove
replacement parts can be obtained from stove sales outlets or from most large hardware stores
and chains.
We have referred earlier to the importance of "burning in" even store-bought smokers and
grills to get rid of any paint, oxidants, plating or other chemical residues left in the drum.
These and a few extra warning notes need to be observed in building your own barrel smoker,
as well.
The first and most important thing is to ensure that the drum has not contained any toxic
substances or chemicals. Even a trace of some of the most poisonous toxins is enough to taint
food and make its consumer seriously ill.
To remove old paint and scale from the inside of the drum prior to re-painting it, you can sand
it down, or for a really thorough pre-preparation, take it to a shot- or sand-blasting shop to
clean it up inside and out.
Mild steel drums are especially prone to rusting, particularly when they are exposed to
progressive heating and cooling. Sanding or shot-blasting your drum removes the zinc- or
galvanised-plating, and you'll have a few hours at most to paint it before the first spots of rust
start to appear.
73
Refinish all surfaces with high temperature oven paint, and ensure an even, easily regulated
flow of smoke from the firebox into one end of the cooking chamber and out of the other by
way of a smokestack or vent. (Placing one or more baffles into the smoke chamber can
significantly enhance smoke circulation and temperature).
Because most drums of the sort discussed here are made from very thin section mild steel, if
you're going to burn wood or charcoal you'll need to use a layer of fire bricks or sand between
the fire and the bottom of the drum.
Used stainless steel drums are as rare as hens' teeth, but if you can get one, the time and effort
saved, both in the minimal preparation required, and the ease of cleaning, may well justify
whatever relatively small cost you have to outlay for it.
In lieu of a drum, you could consider the carcass of a discarded appliance such as a steel
refrigerator, freezer, washing machine or range. While built-in obsolescence has seen very
thin steel plate used on many latter-day appliances, if you keep your eyes open it's still
possible to pick up an old-fashioned model, often double-skinned in metal, and with solidly
hinged doors.
Where the appliance is insulated, particular care needs to be taken in stripping this completely
– you don't want insulation fibres floating around in the smoke cloud and impregnating the
food! And it goes without saying that every trace of plastics should be removed completely.
b. Permanent Pits, Vaults and Smoker Cabinets

As we mentioned earlier in this book, if you've a lot of free yard space – and you're not
thinking of translocating anywhere in the near future! – you can build a permanent, brick-built
barbecue pit or oven, preferably raised above the ground to a height which is easy to work at.
For many years our family enjoyed a key-hole shaped pit, with the cooking area contained by
the circle where the shank of the key would have fitted, and the "firebox" defined by the
"blade" of the key.
By building the pit to shoulder height and above, a vertical vault or cabinet-style smoker can
be formed, one of the main advantages being that a vertical hinged door can be provided to
swing open horizontally, whereas in a shallower pit the lid has to be raised vertically.
Vault pits may also be provided with a series of shelves, rather akin to the shelves in a vertical
74
freezer or refrigerator, which can more easily be loaded and removed, and which offer the
facility of discretionally raising or lowering the food relative to the heat source.
Both styles of pit or cabinet are relatively simple to construct, and construction details are
given in the section later in the book, PART 10, devoted to plans and diagrams covering most
of the smokehouse styles discussed to this point.
Whether your decision to buy or to build is motivated by budgetary considerations, or time
constraints, or simply by the challenge of building something creative and (quite literally!)
from the ground up, the fact that we've elected to start with an overview of the equipment you
need is no accident! Rubs, marinades, types of wood used, and accessories all contribute to
the overall success of your smoking efforts – but without the right equipment they're about as
useful as snowshoes in the Bahamas.
4.2. COLD-SMOKING ... EVEN SLOWER, AND EVEN LOWER!

As we've alluded to earlier, the essential differences between hot-smoking or barbecuing, and
cold-smoking, stem from the fact that in the hot-smoking process, sufficient heat is used to cook
the food (with the smoke used to add flavour), whereas in cold-smoking the food is not
cooked, but cured.
A number of secondary differences naturally flow from this.
While both methods require a relatively long processing time (up to 18 hours for large cuts of
hot-smoked brisket, or pork shoulder, for example), cold smoking is often measured in days,
rather than hours.
75
Then, too, while it is certainly possible to hot-smoke foods which are subsequently eaten cold
(like chilled hot-smoked trout fillets, or chicken breasts used in a smoked chicken salad, for
example) more typically hot-smoked, and in particular barbecued, food is eaten while it is still
hot – or at very least warm.
Cold-smoked foods, on the other hand, are almost invariably eaten cold, or at very least at
room temperature (like sliced smoked salmon, for instance).
A further distinguishing characteristic is that hot-smoked foods are generally moister than
cold-smoked foods. In stove-top smokers, like the ABU Garcia and Camerons smokers
discussed earlier, for example, as well as many smaller vertical and water smokers, a degree
of steaming at the same time as the food is being cooked and smoked is almost unavoidable.
Cold-smoked fish such as salmon or trout have a significantly different texture from fish
prepared using a hot-smoke process. The cold-smoked product is generally much firmer, and
oilier, while the connective tissues in its hot-smoked counterpart are much more fragile, and
easier to break or flake apart. Hot-smoked fish, in our view, is better in soufflés, fish pies,
dips, patés and terrines, while cold-smoked strips are delicious on baguettes or simply laid on
a bed of lettuce.
Perhaps the most important practical consequence of the difference in temperatures used in the
two methods is that while some of the equipment used for hot-smoking and barbecuing can be
adapted for cold-smoking, much of it cannot. Equally, the lower heats required for cold-
smoking mean that many of the materials used in cold-smokers would be totally inappropriate
for hot-smoking and barbecuing.
Cold-smoking essentially requires that the firebox is significantly distanced from the food in
the smoking chamber – far enough away for the smoke to be cool to the touch as it is passed
over the food.
Cold-smoking also benefits from a pronounced draft, either mechanically- or convection-
induced.
All of this means that while with a little bit of ingenuity they can produce reasonably
acceptable results, the majority of the general purpose gas and charcoal grills, vertical and
water smokers, stove-top smokers and smoker boxes mentioned above as being suitable for
barbecuing and hot-smoking cannot really be considered as serious contenders for genuine
cold-smoked applications.
76
4.2.1. SMOKERS FOR COLD-SMOKING AND CURING
As a general rule of thumb, the food to be cold-smoked should be at least four or five feet
(about a metre and a half) away from a wood fire (more if logs as opposed to chunks are used)
and at least two and a half feet ( approximately sixty centimetres) away if chips or sawdust are
used.
This is, though, at best a rule of thumb. In parts of the world where summer highs and winter
lows can reflect a difference of fifty and more degrees, regulating the temperature of the smoke
is as much dependent on insulation and air circulation as it is simply of distance.
a. Barbecue Pits, Ovens, Vaults and Cabinets
Whether home-made or store-bought, many of the larger pits, ovens and cabinet or vault
smokers mentioned above as being suitable for hot-smoking and barbecuing can be adapted for
cold-smoking – particularly where the fire box can be adjustably distanced from the smoke or
cooking chamber.
Ventilation needs to be carefully adjusted so that the logs, chunks, chips or sawdust used for
smoke generation smoulder and smoke without flaming.
Generally, the vents regulating the circulation and flow of smoke should be opened up rather
more to induce a cool, steady draft of smoke-rich air. Caution should be exercised, however,
as opening the vents too much can generate excessive heat and flaming. You'll need to keep a
watch on things for the first few smokes until you develop familiarity and a feel for your
equipment.
An increasing number of commercially available devices suited to adapting barbecue to cold
smoking are coming onto the market. One example, described and illustrated earlier and
repeated here for the sake of completeness, is the Bradley Smoker Cold Smoke Adapter, made
b y Bradley Technologies in Canada , which fits onto all Bradley 4 and 6 rack smokers
between the smoke tower and the smoke generator. It allows the smoke to cool down (even on
hot days, according to Bradley) before it reaches your food, enabling you to apply genuine
cold-smoke processing to the contents of the smoke cabinet. The picture below shows the
smoke generator, the cold smoke adapter, and the combined adapter/generator in use with the
cabinet:
77
MasterBuilt, also mentioned earlier, make a cold smoking kit, pictured below, for smoking
sausage, fish, bacon and even cheese! The Electric Cold Smoker Kit attaches to the wood chip
loading port of all MasterBuilt Digital Electric Smokers, and provides continuous smoke for
up to 6 hours at temperatures as low as 38°C to 49°C (100°F to 120°F):

A second option, suitable for indoor and patio use and discussed earlier, is the Emson
Electric 5Qt and 7Qt Pressure Smoker, which like a conventional pressure cooker as much
as halves the total cooking and smoking time, but which also allows cold pressure smoking of
foods like cheese and fish. The limited capacity of the smoker is suitable for couples and
small family meals only, but reviewers are generally full of praise for its convenience and
generally smoke-free operation. For links, and further information, click here:
Whatever equipment you use, you'll need a reliable method of monitoring the temperature
(even more important in cold-smoking than in hot-smoking). Suitable thermometers and
temperature gauges are discussed later in Part 5!).
78
b. Home-Built Smokehouses
Because of the low heat used in the cold-smoking process, a home-made smokehouse which is
specifically dedicated to cold-smoking is far less demanding in its material requirements, than
one used for hot-smoking. It's also reasonably simple to build, and we show how in PART 10,
below.
It certainly doesn't need to be elaborate.
The container in which the food is smoked may be as simple as a wooden crate (avoid wood
which has resin in it, however – or wood which has been treated for borer!),
Photo: SC5832 Crate, part 2 by Patrick Finnegan (vaxomatic): Flickr Creative Commons
or an old wooden wine or pickling barrel,
Photo: Bench and Barrel by Valerie Everett (edited): Flickr Creative Commons
or a 44-gallon (200 litre) metal drum, suitably cleaned and refinished, as described above
79
Photo: Stray Barrel by alisdair: Flickr Creative Commons
or a discarded refrigerator, freezer, top-loader or other retired metal appliance, from which
every last trace of insulation and plastics have been carefully removed.
Photo: Kitchens from the Past by Larry Jacobsen (ljguitar): Flickr Creative Commons
As with the home-built equipment for hot smoking described earlier, a range of wood stove
replacement parts – flues, baffles, firebox doors, dampers and the like – can be obtained at
relatively little cost and will add significantly to the degree of control required.
In addition to the vents provided to regulate the circulation of air and smoke, the smokehouse
must also have racks or trays on which to lay thinner cuts of fish and meat, and hooks from
which to suspend larger cuts, whole fish and whole joints of pork and other meats.
As with hot smoking, heat required to generate the smoke may be provided by the wood itself,
or by charcoal, gas or electricity used to heat wood chunks, chips or sawdust for smoke– with
electricity offering particular advantages in its ability to provide precise temperature control.
(If the heat source is an electrical hotplate it should be well earthed or grounded – by running a
copper wire or strap from the plate to an earthing rod driven into the ground if the plate is used
outdoors).
Plans and diagrams for a range of home-built cold-smokers are given later in PART 10.
80
81
PART 3: FUELS

2. What Woods Can I Use? And Which Should Be Avoided?
3. Local is Generally Best – But Some Local Is Better than Others!
Photo: Oaken Copse by Andrew Bowden (Bods): Flickr Creative Commons

4. Different Woods for Different Applications
- Strength and Quality of Flavour
- Amount of Heat Generated
- Type and Quality of Coals Produced
- Smoke Density
- Which Wood for Which Food?
82
o..Fish
o..Pork
o Other Meats
o Poultry
- Logs and Larger Wood Chunks
- Chips and Smaller Wood Chunks
- Compressed Wood Pellets
- Sawdust
5. Charcoal

Regardless of whether you use a hot-smoked or cold-smoked approach, wood is an essential
component of the smoky flavour characterising smokehouse cooking.
What is not so widely appreciated is that a second important component of the flavour in
smoked food comes from the heating source itself – and more particularly the combustion
gases it emits.
At one end of the spectrum is electricity, which in normal use emits no combustion gases
whatsoever. At the other end are dried wood logs and chunks. Charcoal and gas fit
somewhere in between.
If you want to see the difference in the characteristics of smoke produced, for example, by
burning chips or chunks on an electric plate, and the same chips burnt over charcoal, try
smoking a fish or a rack of ribs using both heating sources for comparable times and at similar
temperatures, and compare the end result. The smoked product produced over electricity will
have a much lighter colour or glaze, and a distinguishably different taste.
Another little appreciated fact is that all woods contain minerals and gases – most obviously
carbon, but also potassium, nitrogen, hydrogen, oxygen and also trace minerals like sodium and
83
sulphur. In the same way that differing soil quality and climate are major determinants in the
flavour of wines from the same vine stock, so too is their impact on the flavour of hardwoods
from the same tree species growing in different soil conditions and different areas of the
country
.
Photo: Stacked Wood in Snow 2 by Sharon Mollerus: Flickr Creative Commons

Practically any raw, untreated, non-resinous hardwood may be used as fuel. There are some
exceptions, so it pays to stay with traditional fuels, and not to experiment too adventurously.
The tamboetie wood, in parts of Southern and Central Africa, for example has a sap which is
extremely toxic to humans (though rhinos love it!), and even a trace of smoke on food grilled
over a tamboetie wood fire can make the eater violently ill.
High levels of latent sap or resin common to softwoods make their smoke acrid and bitter to
the taste, and they should therefore be avoided.
Avoid, too, the use of wood scraps and chips which are scrounged from building sites or
general purpose joinery or cabinet works – you risk picking up nasties like paint, varnish,
borer repellents, glue and the like.
84
While climate and soil conditions may in some areas be even more important than the tree
species themselves, different woods impart distinctively different flavours, and there are
pronounced regional favourites.
In the Southern States of America woods such as hickory, sweet bay, palmetto, river mangrove
and scrub and live oak are all highly esteemed. Mesquite is a stock favourite in drier regions,
and a particular favourite of many smoked fish enthusiasts. In the West, Manzanita roots,
alder, and vine maple are widely used, while oak, maple, beech and hickory find favour in the
North.
Along the seacoast non-resinous driftwood, free of paint, tars and oil, is regularly used. And
where wood is scarce, dried corncobs and coconut husks can be usefully employed, provided
the cobs or husks are well soaked before use, and the fire is carefully monitored to prevent it
flaring up and becoming too hot.
All dry fruit and nut woods such as apple, peach, pear, cherry, pecan, walnut and almond,
make excellent fuel for smoking, and impart a distinctively "soft" flavour to food smoked in
them – which may necessitate a longer smoking time if you want a more robust smokiness.
Serious smokers are always on the look-out for farmers or friends who are pruning or cutting
out their fruit trees, and who generally are only too happy to give away a few logs when
asked. Remember, though, to air dry them until all their moisture has been driven out, and to
strip all bark and moss from the wood, as they impart a bitter flavour to the food being
smoked.
85
In considering the different types of hardwood routinely used for smoking, it's useful to
categorize them according to the strength and quality of the flavour they impart, the heat they
generate, the quality of the coals produced, the food types with which they are associated, and
the density of the smoke cloud they generate. The following categorization attempts to do this:
- Strength and Quality of Flavour:
Woods producing smoke with a light, mild or sweet flavour include alder, apple, apricot, ash,
birch, cherry, cottonwood, crab-apple, grapefruit, guava, lemon, lilac, maple, mulberry,
nectarine, orange, peach, pear, plum, and willow, among others.
Woods with a more pronounced flavour include acacia, hickory, oak and pecan and wood
producing a heavy smoke includes black walnut, chokecherry, grapevines, mesquite and
walnut. All of the last-named are perhaps best used where a relatively short smoke time is
called for, or mixed with other, milder smoking woods.
- Heat Generated:
Woods burning very hot should be used for very short times, or mixed with other slower-
burning woods. Hot-burning woods include acacia, ash, and mesquite. Oak and alder produce
moderate heat, and cooler burning woods include most of the fruit and nut varieties, with pecan
a particularly cool-burning candidate.
- Coals Produced:
Alder and oak produce good coals, which makes them firm favourites for mixing with other
woods where a combination of sustained heat and smoke is desirable.
- Smoke Density:
Alder, oak and hickory all give a good cloud of smoke, as does lilac. Citrus wood like
grapefruit, lemon and orange all give a moderately good smoke, while other fruit trees tend to
give adequate, rather than generous, smoke clouds. All woods, and this applies particularly to
chunks and chips, give more smoke and last longer if pre-soaked in water (or wine or beer, if
you're feeling particularly adventurous!).
86
- Which Wood for Which Food?
Fish: Alder is the traditional wood for smoking salmon in the Pacific Northwest, while ash
has a light, distinctive flavour. Most of the fruit and nut woods impart a slightly sweeter – but
nonetheless very acceptable – flavour, particularly if mixed with a stronger flavoured wood
such as hickory.
Photo: Rainbow trout about to be cleaned by sabareq: Flickr Creative Commons

Pork: Almond, apple, apricot, birch, cherry, crab-apple, grapefruit, hickory, lilac, maple,
mulberry, nectarine, orange, peach, pear and plum are all good for pork.
Photo: Porker by Mark Fosh (foshie): Flickr Creative Commons

Other Meats – Beef, Lamb, Veal and Venison : Oak and hickory provide the slightly more
robust flavour which beef, lamb and venison, in particular, require. Milder woods, such as the
fruit and nut woods, should be used for smoking veal, which has a very delicate flavour that
can easily be overwhelmed.
87
Photo: Deer Feeding by JohnWDavisJr: Flickr Creative Commons
Poultry: Alder, almond, apple, birch, cherry, crab-apple, grapefruit, lemon, lilac, maple,
mulberry, nectarine, orange, peach, pear and plum are all esteemed smoking woods for
poultry. For larger birds such as turkeys, they can benefit from being mixed with a little
hickory or oak.
Photo: Turkey in snow by Justin Russell (nightthree): Flickr Creative Commons

All of the above is, of course, a generalisation, and there are a number of less common
hardwoods which also work well, either on their own or in differing combinations.
We earlier drew an analogy between woods for smoking, and vines in the production of wine.
Sticking with the wine metaphor, staves from old wine and spirit barrels, particularly when
they're steeped in the flavours of their previous contents, make wonderful smoke with a flavour
no tree could – or should! – ever impart.
- Logs and Larger Wood Chunks
Whether you use logs, chunks, chips or sawdust largely depends on the type of smoker you're
using.
By definition, for log-burning pits, you'll probably need to use whole logs.
88
Chunks, chips and sawdust work well with commercial cabinets, vault smokers and smaller
units, and are often preferred because they tend to make a richer, denser smoke and to
smoulder relatively slower. They are also readily available, bagged and clean, from
specialist outdoor cooking supply stores.
To maintain a nice, even burn with logs or larger chunks, there are two useful pro tips to bear
in mind. You can maintain an even fire by adding a few charcoal briquettes to the fire from
time to time. One of the great merits of briquettes is that they burn for hours, particularly when
the fire is damped down, and can be pretty much left untended.
The other is to mix woods like hickory or maple, which create a good, rich smoke, with woods
like alder or oak which produce long-burning coals.
Larger chunks can be burned dry, like logs, although in the absence of an offset firebox they
can tend to burn more unevenly, and therefore require more watching.
- Chips and Smaller Chunks
Chips and smaller chunks of wood should be soaked for at least half an hour before placing
them on the fire, and preferably longer, to ensure they smoke rather than flame. Plain water
can be used, although many pitmasters claim that a better flavour is achieved by soaking in
beer or wine!
89
Photos (l to r): Wood Chips – Chicken on a Can 022 by J Wynia; and Wood chips soaking by
Ted Sakshaug (tsakshaug): Flickr Creative Commons
How many chunks or chips to use depends on how rich or mild a smoke flavour you're looking
to achieve. A relatively small amount of chips – perhaps a handful or two at most – in
combination with a shorter smoking time will impart a mild flavour, whereas a more generous
amount of chips and an extended smoking time will give a more pronounced, robust smokiness
to the food.
In smaller smokers, chips and chunks in combination work better than each on its own. You
can get a good head of smoke up quickly with the chips, but the heavier and denser chunks tend
to last much longer.
- Compressed Wood Pellets
Compressed wood pellets may be used in substitution for "natural" chunks or chips and can be
used with practically any of the smokers and grills mentioned in this book. Additionally, there
is a growing range of smokers, in which only pellets can be used, because the uniform size and
shape of the pellets make them easy to use in automatic fuel feed mechanisms.
Pellets are made by compressing hardwood sawdust, and are generally significantly denser
than raw wood logs and chunks. Because they have no additives, or binders, combustion is
almost 100%, and there is no danger of toxins from these additives contaminating the food. A
downside is that they have to be kept dry – if they get wet they reconstitute as a pile of
sawdust!
Their uniform composition means that hot coals and flaring are pretty much 100% avoided. It
also means that there's very little ash, and cleaning is generally a lot simpler.
Most manufacturers supplying pellets offer them in a variety of hardwood flavours.
As the popularity of smoker pellets increases, more and more suppliers are stocking them, and
this not only means that the risk of non-availability is constantly reducing, but it also ensures
that competition will keep prices low. A number of mainstream chains and large department
stores now carry them.
A couple of warning notes need to be sounded, however. Pellets used in food smoking should
not be confused with home heater pellets, which unlike cooking pellets are often made from
resinous woods like pine, and are bulked out with scrap lumber which often has been treated
with toxic chemicals, paints and dyes. Buy only genuine, food quality, cooking pellets.
One of the most cited suppliers of pellets is:
BBQrs Delight, Pine Bluff, Arkansas http://bbqrsdelight.com who offer 13 flavours of pellets
in re-sealable stand-up bags, including Sugar Maple, Sassafras, Mulberry and an intriguing
Jack Daniels variety. A Google search will bring up many others.
90
A second cautionary note is this: where pellets are used as the fuel in automatic-feed smokers,
it's particularly important to buy a smoker which has a good reputation for reliability. Cheaper
pellet-fed smokers are prone to failure of the machinery providing the automatic feed, so if
you're going this route, it pays to spend a little more!
- Sawdust
Sawdust is most frequently used, (sometimes with and sometimes instead of very small wood
chips) in stove-top smokers. It is also a useful "booster" when you want temporarily to
increase the density of the smoke cloud in larger smokers, as well.
5. Charcoal
Charcoal is charcoal, is charcoal. Right?
WRONG! Good, food-quality charcoal suitable for smoking is as far removed from some of
the heavily discounted, bargain-lot specials as Cinderella was from the ugliest of her sisters.
Here are some of the differentiating characteristics you'll want to keep in mind.
A distinction has to be drawn between lump charcoal pieces and charcoal briquettes. Both are
produced in a procedure where oxygen is excluded from the combustion process. But whereas
charcoal pieces are derived from whole logs and chunks, generally without additives,
briquettes are made from sawdust, and in order to ensure that the sawdust binds together many
manufacturers add various binders to the compressed dust.
91
High quality briquettes use an organic, food friendly binder like vegetable starch (where they
use one at all). Poor quality briquettes, on the other hand, often use additives like petroleum
products, and coal, to bind and also to assist in lighting the charcoal. The chance of toxins and
pollutants being given off is real!
Briquettes offer a controlled, consistent level of heat for a prolonged period of time. With
experience, and using some of the tips and tricks outlined earlier, the rate at which the charcoal
burns can be reasonably well controlled, ensuring a relatively low, consistent temperature
suitable for smoking.
The combustion process used to produce the briquettes removes all trace of flavour from the
wood being used in their manufacture, so wood chips or chunks have to be added, as described
variously above, to impart the desired smokiness to the food.
Briquettes using only vegetable starches as a binder are increasingly available in the "organic"
or "natural" sections of the large chains and supermarkets, and from outlets specialising in this
category of products.
While lump charcoal can be used with a high level of assurance that there are no toxic
additives, its disadvantage is that it burns at a much higher, and less consistent, temperature
than briquettes. If you don't have access to briquettes, lumps can be used, and the trick is to
hand-pick lumps of approximately the same size, and scatter rather than heap them among the
wood chunks or chips from which the smoke is being generated.
92
The ability to "pre-burn" charcoal, outside the firebox, either lumps or briquettes, is important
if you have to add more charcoal, and a good way to handle this is to create a separate pre-
burn area, or for quick results use a proprietary, metal, charcoal starter chimney to get the
charcoal glowing, and then distribute the lumps or briquettes with tongs.

Weber, RapidFire (illustrated above), and Smokey Mountain Cooker are registered U.S.
An important observation when using charcoal briquettes in particular is that they are "ready"
not while they're still obviously burning, but when the coals are covered with a fine skin or
dusting of white ash.
93
The golden rule is to allow enough time, depending on the fuel or heat source used.
Where electric heater elements are used for heating, the time lapse between starting up and
getting to operating temperature is nominal. But if you intend to use a log fire in a large pit,
vault or cabinet, you'll need to start the fire at least an hour, and often closer to two, before you
can even think about starting to smoke the food in the smoke chamber.
To get a conventional log fire started you'll need a bed of kindling, under a stack of logs
carefully arranged so as to ensure a good flow of air around them. Err on having more rather
than less kindling! There's very little more frustrating than having one's kindling consumed
before the logs it is designed to light have caught!
While it's tempting to use synthetic, generally paraffin-based fire-starters, there are many
"natural", fire starters available which don't pose the same risk of tainting the taste of the food.
We made reference earlier to charcoal starter chimneys, which accelerate the process of
bringing charcoal to the point where it is incandescent. They're long-lasting, widely available,
and inexpensive. To operate them you loosely ball newspaper and place it in the bottom
chamber, and add charcoal to the top chamber. Ignite the paper, and within minutes you have a
glowing heap of coals or briquettes. And you can repeat the process if at any time you look in
danger of running out!
Weber, in their instruction leaflets, state that briquettes are ready for grilling when they are
covered with a layer of grey ash. For barbecuing, the "Rule of Fives" applies: you should be
able to hold your hand five inches above the coals for five seconds without having to snatch it
away. At this stage, the coals will be uniformly grey, with no red glow.
94
2. Brining and Salting
3. Hot-Smoke Salting and Brining
- Brining
- Dry Salting
4. Cold-Smoke Salting and Brining
- Brining
- Dry Salting
- Drying
- Smoking
5. "Wild" Smoking (Emergency Smoking in the Outdoors)
While the brining, dry-salting and general pre-preparation of foods apply in some instances to
pure barbecue, in this part of the book we look specifically at cold-smoked, and
conventionally hot-smoked food preparation, treating barbecue as a separate area of
smokehouse cookery in later sections of the book.
Regardless of what type of food is being smoked, generally the best results are obtained when
the food is fresh.
This is particularly true of fish. Frozen meats can be thawed for smoking if all air has been
excluded from them during storage (preferably by using vacuum sealing equipment in their
packaging), but thawing frozen fish in our experience seldom gives the same level of firm,
flavoursome end product as when fresh fish is used.
95
It's essential, when frozen food is used for smoking, that it should be completely thawed before
it is placed in the smoker. Because relatively low heats are employed in the smoking process,
there's a real danger of bacterial infection if the core of a large joint or a thick chunk of fish
starts frozen and never reaches the 70 to 82 C (160 to 180 F) necessary to kill off the bacteria.
As a general, fairly obvious, observation whole birds, fish and haunches of meat take longer to
smoke than do cuts taken from them.
Birds may be smoked whole, halved or quartered, while favoured cuts from both domestic and
game animals include the ribs and the hams. The breasts of larger birds, such as ducks, geese
and turkeys, may also be filleted and individually smoked.
Photo: One White Duck by Sheila McClune (arwensouth): Flickr Creative Commons
Depending on their size, fish can be smoked whole, in fillets, or in chunks or cutlets. Small
fish, such as brook trout, sardines and ale-wives, should be smoked whole, while larger fish
such as salmon, lake trout, blue fish and tuna should be filleted, and in the case of very large
fillets further divided into chunks.

Whole fish, fowl and animals should be eviscerated, and the body cavities thoroughly
cleaned. One of the less successful home smoking ventures we have heard about concerned an
enthusiastic learner-smoker who seasoned a whole fresh chicken from his local supermarket,
and then smoked it – exactly according to instruction.
Only when the bird came out was it discovered that the plastic packet containing the giblets,
liver, neck and claws which had been stuffed into the bird's body cavity had been through the
96
smoking process, as well!
It was a moot point whether the end result was a chicken tasting of smoked plastic, or a plastic
bag tasting of smoked chicken. Either way, the blend of flavours was not one where everyone
fell over themselves for the recipe!
Game animals should obviously be skinned before smoking, and birds plucked. As a general
rule, leave the skin on all poultry before smoking them. The skin acts like an "organic foil",
keeping the flesh of the bird moist, and the sub-cutaneous fat provides a useful natural baste. If
you want to crisp up the skin, you'll need to do this after smoking. Alternatively, most smokers
prefer to remove the skin after the smoke process is completed.
When hot-smoking or barbecuing poultry, particularly dry-fleshed birds like turkeys, it's a
good idea to inject an "internal baste" consisting of a mixture of oils and liquid, into
particularly the drier breast flesh of the bird, using an injection syringe to force the liquid deep
into the flesh, in a number of different places.
Photo Weston
In the case of fish, we generally prefer scaling the fish, but leaving the skin on. Some fish, like
northern pike and 'cuda, both of which are esteemed smoked food, have a strongly aromatic
skin, and should be both skinned and filleted before smoking.
Photo: Northern Pike by wormbumper: Flickr Creative Commons

Particularly when smoking fish on trays, it's important to arrange them skin-side down.
Very small fish are often better smoked "in the round", without opening the body cavity to
97
eviscerate them. Instead, a procedure called "gibbing" is used, where the viscera, including
the gills, are pulled out of a small cut made just below the gills, leaving the stomach uncut.
You may find it helpful, using a pair of sharp nail scissors, to nick the end of the alimentary
canal through the anal vent before pulling the viscera out as described.
Whether you leave the heads on your smoked fish or not depends partly on the size of the fish,
partly on how much space you have available in your smoker, and partly how you rack or hang
the fish.
Even where they are racked on trays, smaller fish are easier to handle if their heads are left on
– and their presentation at the table looks professionally appealing!
Whole fish, birds and large cuts of meat like hams can be suspended on S-shaped hooks from
bars spanning the interior of the smoker. Whole birds and joints of meat can generally be hung
regardless of whether hot- or cold-smoking is employed. Be careful with fish, though –
particularly when hot-smoking. Their flesh is relatively less firm, and unless you hang them
through the gills or eye sockets, or opened up and "hinged" at the tail (as illustrated below) you
risk the hooks tearing out at some stage in the smoking process.
Photo: Smoking trout at highland games, inveraray by Cok Francken (cfrancken): Flickr
Creative Commons
Butterflying fish is a preferred method for hot-smoking (although it can be used for cold-
smoking, as well). Instead of opening the fish in a conventional manner by cutting the belly to
expose the body cavity, butterflying involves splitting the fish along the back to just one side of
the backbone (or both), leaving the belly intact so that it acts as a sort of hinge when the fish is
opened.
98
Prepared this way, two hooks may be used in order to keep the fish open, one through each
side of the fish just below the bony plate just behind the gill opening. Alternatively, the cross
bars spanning the inside of the smoker may be provided with a series of spikes, projecting
from the sides of the bars, on which the butterflied fish is suspended, opened up so that all the
flesh, inside and out, is exposed to the smoke.
Butterflied fish may also be smoked laid flat on trays. In this case two long metal skewers are
run lengthwise down the fish, starting just under the bony plate of the pectoral fin, to keep it
open, and it is then laid, skin down, on the tray or rack.
Two basic methods are used to infuse the food to be smoked with salt – wet-salting where the
99
food is immersed in brine, and dry-salting where salt is either sprinkled or layered on the
food.
Salting food prior to hot-smoking it is not strictly necessary, as the food is cooked rather than
cured. Generally, though, we believe the flavour is enhanced by pre-salting, and salting also
helps to leach out some of the moisture and so keep the flesh firm.
In the case of cold-smoking, salting before smoking is not an option – it's an essential part of
preventing bacterial spoilage! In the case of brining, the solution needs to contain just a little
more than 5% salt in order to inhibit most of the bacteria responsible for food going off.
As mentioned earlier one of the most important preservative effects of salting is to remove and
partially replace moisture and body fluids from the food being smoked, thereby not only
starving the bacteria of the water on which they rely in order to survive, but leaching out their
own moisture reserves, as well.
Adding smoke not only adds flavour, but further dries the food, while also increasing the
tensile strength of the connective tissues holding it together.
A major part of the artistry of cold-smoking is to find the correct balance between the amount
of salt used to preserve the food, and the density, temperature and duration of the smoke
application And a big part of this is getting to know the quirks and eccentricities of your own
smokehouse.
This comes with practice, and it's a good idea to have a few trial runs before throwing your
first big "smokehouse party"!

As mentioned earlier, it's not strictly necessary, particularly in the case of meat and poultry, to
brine or salt the food before hot-smoking. We always do, though, because we're convinced
there's a significant improvement in the flavour and texture of the end product.
a. Brining.
The trick, when brining for the hot-smoking process, is not to immerse the fish or meat in the
brine solution for too long. Taken to extremes, you run the risk of the flesh becoming soft and
"pulpy".
100
To hot-smoke fish, we use a double-brining approach. Once all blood, membranes and viscera
have been scraped away, the fish is washed and immersed in a brine solution containing one
cup of salt to five litres (approximately 1 gallon) of water. Hot water may be used to speed up
the absorption of the salt by the water, but make sure it has cooled completely before soaking
the fish in it.
Leave the fish in the brine for about half and hour to leach out most of the blood. While this is
happening, prepare a second brine solution by combining:
4 cups of salt;
2 cups of brown sugar;
2 tablespoons of ground black pepper; and
5 litres (about 1 gallon) of water.
Immerse the fish in this second brine for two to four hours. Large fish and thick fillets take
longer, as do fattier fish.
Rinse the fish in fresh water after they come out of the brine and then dry them for two to three
hours by hanging them in the shade where they are cool, and in a draught or breeze. A simple-
to-make drying rack (instructions in PART 10) helps in this process.
A shiny glaze on the surface of the fish will tell you when they're dried enough, at which point
they can be placed in the smoke container.
Use a low temperature (about 43 to 49 C or 110 to 120 F), with a moderate degree of smoke
for the first three to four hours, then bring the temperature up to a constant 70 to 82 C (160 to
180 F) for the next three to four hours, during which a dense cloud of smoke is maintained. At
the end of this time, the fish should be completely hot-smoked and cooked.
101
To save time, meat and fowl which is hot-smoked for immediate use can be beneficially pre-
cooked in the oven for about three quarters of the time you would normally roast or broil
them. They can then be smoked for five to eight hours at a constant temperature of about 60 C
(or 140 F) in a dense smoke to finish them off.
b. Dry-Salting.
The advantage of brining is that it leaches body moisture out of the fish or meat to be smoked
in an essentially osmotic process. Many seasoned smokers, however, believe that dry-salting
results in a firmer, more flavourful end product. We've used both methods, successfully, and
both have produced good results for us.
The main benefit of dry-salting, however, is that it takes significantly less time. It's
particularly useful for large fish, although it can be used with smaller fish and cuts of meat as
well.
Start by thoroughly washing the fish or meat to be smoked. The secret is not to dry the food
completely, but to dry-salt both sides of the meat or fish, while the skin and flesh are still moist
(not wet!).
The amount of salt to apply depends on the thickness of the flesh being salted, and a good rule
of thumb is to allow about 1mm (about 1/16 of an inch) of salt to every 75mm (3 inches) of
flesh. Layer the salt evenly, and on both sides of the food, and when it has been completely
absorbed by the flesh (generally about 45 minutes to an hour) the food is ready for smoking.
Wipe off any surface moisture, and salt crystals.
Again, it's important to air dry the salted fish or meat, as described above, until a thin, shiny
skin is formed, after which it can be smoked in a dense smoke environment for seven to eight
hours at a constant temperature of between 70 to 82 C (160 to 180 F).
NOTE: We've referred at various times in our narrative thus far to the "art" of food smoking.
Particularly when using home-built equipment, a degree of approximation is difficult to avoid.
We are aware that for some readers this level of imprecision will be uncomfortable – and we
sympathise with it.
The answer, we have found, is routinely to set aside a piece of meat, fish or fowl for tasting at
various times during the smoking process. Choose a smaller rather than a larger piece,
because if something is going amiss this will show up on a small piece quicker than on a large
one.
Tasting like this enables you to make the necessary adjustments to temperature, time and the
density of smoke before it is too late. As you gain experience with the quirks and
eccentricities of your smoker you'll become comfortable enough to dispense with frequent
testing and tasting.
102
As we've pointed out, it's not strictly necessary, particularly in the case of meat and poultry, to
brine or salt the food before hot-smoking. With cold-smoking, however, it's essential! Either
method – or both in combination – can be used.
a. Brining:
Fish:
As with hot-smoking, a double-brining approach is recommended for fish. After eviscerating
and cleaning them thoroughly, immerse the fish for about 30 minutes in a brine solution
comprising one cup of salt to 5 litres (approximately a gallon) of fresh water. If the water is
heated to aid absorption of the salt, make sure it is absolutely cold before the fish is submerged
in it, then leach for about thirty minutes to remove most of the blood.
The fish are then immersed for about twelve hours in a second brine solution in which are
combined:
- 450g (1 lb) of salt;
- 225g (1/2 lb) of brown sugar;
- 15g (1/2 ounce) of potassium nitrate (cooking quality saltpetre); and
- 5 litres (approximately 1 gallon) of fresh water.
Do not wash the fish before smoking, but drain and dry them thoroughly. Drying them is very
important. If they are too wet they will steam, with the attendant risk of their becoming soft,
and even mushy.
b. Dry Salting:
Fish:
After eviscerating and cleaning the fish, immerse them in a brine solution comprising one cup
of salt to 5 litres (approximately a gallon) of cold, fresh water. Remove the fish after about 30
minutes, and dry or drain off all surplus water.
Fill a shallow wooden or plastic box (not metal!) with enough salt to be able to thoroughly
dredge the fish, and lift each fish out of the box with as much salt as readily adheres to it. With
103
whole, thick fish, we additionally sprinkle as much salt into the inner body cavity of the fish as
readily adheres to the body lining.
Layer the salted fish evenly in a second wooden or plastic box, scattering a very thin film of
salt between each layer. We like ground or coarse salt for this part of the process, because we
find the flavour less intense than with table salt, and it's accordingly easier to avoid over-
salting.
Large fish and fish "in the round" should be left in the salt for about ten to twelve hours. If the
fish have been split, filleted or chunked, and therefore present more surface area to the salt, the
time can be reduced to between four and eight hours.
Once salted, the fish can be rinsed in fresh water and left to dry in a cool, shady, breezy place
until a shiny skin or film has formed on all exposed surfaces. Generally, this will take about
three to four hours.
This step should under no circumstances be omitted! If the fish are placed in the smoker
before the shiny skin has developed, they will be too moist and not only will there be a
tendency for the fish to steam and become "pulpy" in the smoke, but they will lose their colour
and pick up an unappealing grey tinge.
Game Birds, Poultry and Large Joints of Meat:
Photos (l to r): Pheasant by Stewart Black; and California Quail by Sid Mosdell (SidPix):
Flickr Creative Commons
Birds should be plucked and eviscerated, after which they are packed close together in an
earthenware crock, plastic bath or wooden barrel. Do not use a metal container.
The birds, as also hams and other large joints of meat, are then submerged in a brining solution
in which about one and a half kilograms (+- 3 pounds)of salt, 750 grams (or one and a half
pounds) of brown sugar, and 45g (one and a half ounces) of potassium nitrate (cooking quality
saltpetre) are combined with 10 litres (or 2 gallons) of fresh, cold water, and left to soak for
between six to nine hours, before being dried and then smoked.
It will be necessary to weigh the birds down to prevent them floating to the surface, and to this
end a wooden cutting board just slightly smaller than the brine container may be used, suitably
weighed down with a weight such as a tile or a half brick. Alternatively, use a plastic bag
104
filled with wet beach sand, tied off and then placed in two similar bags, also tied off, to avoid
any possibility of the sand leaking out.
c. Drying:
The importance of drying the fish or meat to be smoked before it is placed in the smokehouse,
particularly in the case of cold-smoking, cannot be over-emphasised. Bringing the fish or meat
to the point where a thin, shiny skin can be observed on its surface is your best guarantee that
the drying process has been thoroughly carried out.
If you intend smoking foods on a fairly frequent basis, you should consider building a drying
rack, which is extremely simple to make. Plans are shown later in the book, but in essence
what you are looking for is a wooden framework consisting of two lengths of timber about 3
metres (approximately 10 feet) long, 50mm wide and 100 mm thick (2 inches by 4 inches).
The two lengths should be about 300 mm (15 inches) apart, with a crosspiece at each end.
Nails should be driven into the insides of each length of the framework at about 250mm (10
inch) intervals, with the heads standing sufficiently proud that S-hooks, from which the fish or
meat is hung, can be suspended on the nails.
The rack should be leaned at an angle against a wall or the trunk of a tree, in a shady, breezy
location, and the brined or dry-salted fish or flesh suspended from it allowed to dry for two to
three hours, or until the thin, shiny surface skin has formed.
An old-style wooden ladder with round wooden rungs also works well as a drying rack.
d. Smoking:
The cold-smoking process that follows is the same whether brining or dry-salting has been
employed.
The essence of cold smoking is to use the smoke to supplement the drying action of the salt.
The smoke should be warm, not hot, and the temperature, unlike the hot-smoking process,
should be held constant at no more than 32 C (90 F), from the beginning of the smoke until the
end.
How long you'll need to cold-smoke fish depends on how long you'll want to keep them. As a
rule of thumb, for two weeks and less the smoke time should be twenty four hours; up to five
days for a longer shelf life.
A relatively "thin" smoke cloud should be generated for the first 12 hours, if the fish are to be
smoked for twenty-four hours; and for the first twenty-four hours if the planned smoking time is
longer.
Check the temperature regularly. A good, industrial-quality thermometer is an indispensable
smoking tool, but if for any reason you don't have one, a good guide is to hand-test the interior
of the smoke chamber. If the air feels distinctly warm to the touch, the temperature is too high.
105
Various techniques for cooling the smoke are discussed in the section in PART 10 on building
your own smoker.
After the first twelve or twenty-four hours of light smoking, a dense smoke should be
maintained for the balance of the curing period.
Smoking need not be a continuous, uninterrupted process, but once started the process should
be concluded as quickly as possible.
5. "Wild" Smoking

For hikers, campers, survivalists and others who love to venture into the Great Outdoors
uncluttered by impedimenta, often taking only what they can carry on their backs, toting along
any form of specialised smoking equipment is simply not practical.
Yet the facility to smoke a few brook trout caught in a high mountain lake, or a brace of wild
duck, is very appealing.
106
Photo: Brook Trout by U.S.Fish and Wildlife Service – Midwest Region (USFWSmidwest):
Fortunately, it's also very do-able!
Old campsites often offer enough in the way of discarded or castoff materials to cobble
together a workable, if primitive, smoker. Camps on the banks of lakes and ocean inlets can
be particularly rewarding, offering wooden crates, metal or wooden barrels, hatch covers and
the like.
Photo: rusty barrel by Anthony (pfarrell95): Flickr Creative Commons

Butterfly the fish as described earlier, by splitting along their backbones and leaving the belly
intact. Clean and dry the fish, and then rub them with salt and pepper. Scoring the skin with a
series of cuts will help to thoroughly infuse the salt and seasoning.
107
Layer and store the fish or meat overnight in a suitable container, in a cool place, and out of
reach of predators.
Wipe and hang the fish out to dry in the morning. Hooks can often be fashioned from discarded
wire or the like, or alternatively you can use sharpened sticks as skewers or hooks, making
sure the fish remains butterflied open.
Leave the fish, where they can't be accessed by predators, in a cool, shady place for two or
three hours, or until a glazed, shiny skin is formed on the surface of the flesh.
The illustrations, below, describe a useful approach to building an extempore "smokehouse".
While the fish are drying, start a fire in a shallow trench or pit, and build a good bed of coals.
If convenient, build the fire close to a small, dead tree. Straddle the coals with a suitable
hanging rack, from which to suspend the fish, made from a horizontal pole sitting in the forks of
two uprights.
Now create a "hinge" in the trunk of the tree, by cutting almost, but not quite, through it, and
angle the tree, as shown, over the fire and rack. Use wire to form a "tent frame", or
alternatively lash a frame of green poles (with wire or with the green bark peeled from the
poles themselves). Hang the fish from the rack, so they are in the smoke rising from the fire.
To contain the smoke, roof the "tent" with a sheet of wetted burlap, canvas, dampened
corrugated card or other materials which you've been able to scavenge in the camp site.
Alternatively, weave a "thatch" of green boughs as a roof. In this latter case, it's preferable to
use a non-coniferous tree as the resin in the pine needles can relatively more easily catch fire.
108
Smoking time will depend on the size and thickness of the fish or meat being smoked, on the
density of the smoke, and on the ability of the "smokehouse" to contain it. Allow anything
between four to twenty hours.
Ensure that the "tent" is wetted, or high enough from the fire to prevent it catching alight.
Green (deciduous) leaves can be scattered on the fire to increase the density of the smoke.
When the fish come out of the smoke, they should be cooled, and stored in a dry place. If they
are kept away from moisture, in a temperate climate, they should keep for up to a week, or
more.
109
Predictably, given the popularity of barbecuing and grilling, the range of accessories for
smoke-style cooking is close to overwhelming.
A representative list would include, for example, Aprons; Basting Brushes; Basting Mops;
Charcoal Chimney Starters; Digital Thermometers, Timers and Gauges; Griddles; Hamburger
Presses; Heat Resistant Gloves; Hooks; Meat Injectors; Pot Sticker Presses; Racks; Rotary
Meat Slicers; Rotisseries; Sauce Pots; Spice Grinders; Steamers; Tongs; Vacuum Sealers;
Wire Grill Brushes ... and this is just a small selection!
Our blog, http://homesmokedfoods.com is currently under construction, but should be ready at
or shortly after publication, for links, and further information:
While many accessories fall into the nice-to-have (or nice-to-give!) category, there are a few
which no serious barbecuer should be without. Among these would be:
- Bamboo Steamers:
Duck is the exception to the rule that most of the fat on most meats will melt off during the
smoking process. Duck fat sticks to a duck like Brer Rabbit to the Tar-Baby, and to avoid a
greasy end-product, it needs to be steamed for around 30 minutes to sweat off the fat before
being placed in the smoker. A bamboo steamer is a great way to achieve this, among many
other benefits offered in the healthy cooking method steaming represents. Most Chinese and
Asian outlets stock them. Pictured below, left to right, are some examples from Fox Run,
EKCO PAO*, and NORPRO.
Photos Fox Run, EKCO-PAO* and NORPRO

*PAO! Is a registered trademark of WKI Holding Company, Inc. used under permission by
World Kitchen, LLC.
- Basting Brushes and Mops:
Basting and mopping food with seasoning and sauces before and while it is being smoked is
central to barbecuing, and most enthusiasts have their own proprietary mixes and blends.
We're traditionalists, and like soft, natural bristle on our brushes, but increasingly the
"bristles" on basting brushes are being made of silicon, which cleans easily, and can withstand
heat up to 290 C (550 F),
Some manufacturers, like Kingsford and GrillPro make silicon barbecue basting mops as well
110
as silicon basting brushes, and other manufacturers are following suit. There are also, though,
still a large number of manufacturers (Weber, Steve Raichlen, Charcoal Companion,
Outset, etc), who continue to make their mops of cotton string. You should look for brands
offering a removable head, which makes washing easy and cuts the cost of replacement. Here
are a couple of silicon bristle brushes from GrillPro and Charcoal Companion respectively:
Photos GrillPro and Charcoal Companion, respectively

As an alternative to a basting brush or mop, a barbecue sprayer can be used to apply
marinades and liquid seasonings. Advantages claimed for sprayers are that you can apply the
marinade evenly onto the food, and avoid waste and drips. A disadvantage is that you have to
ensure that the marinade is completely free of all lumps, as even the smallest will clog the
nozzle of the sprayer. While there are a number of bespoke marinade sprayers, a really good
industrial quality sprayer doesn't cost much more, and because it is made to resist harsh
chemicals, will last indefinitely. Solo's 1-litre sprayer (pictured below) is one example:
Photo Solo Products

Mops, brushes and sprayers are carried by a number of specialty barbecue outlets, as well as
the large online distributors.
- Charcoal Starter Chimneys:
Available widely through the chains and major hardware outlets, as well as from the bespoke
barbecue equipment suppliers, starter chimneys are a real boon not only in significantly cutting
down the total time taken to bring charcoal to cooking temperature, but also in ensuring all the
coals are burning evenly.
Chimney quality ranges from mild steel, aluminized or enamelled, to stainless – with prices to
111
match. Units are available for as little as $15 for mild steel, and $29 for stainless.
Manufacturers include *Weber, Char-Broil and Charcoal Companion (pictured below, left to
right) but there are many others.
Photos Weber-Stephen Products LLC, Charbroil and Charcoal Companion

*Weber, RapidFire, and Smokey Mountain Cooker are registered U.S. trademarks of Weber-
Stephen Products LLC.
Starter chimneys dispense with the need for liquid or petroleum-based fire starters. In
operation, you simply crumple a few sheets of newspaper in the bottom of the chimney, add
two kilograms (about 5 pounds) of charcoal, and light the paper. The charcoal is incandescent
in about 15 minutes, compared with about 45 minutes if the coals are lit conventionally.
- Chicken Beer Can Roasters:
We discuss elsewhere in the book the merits of "sitting" a chicken with its body cavity over a
beer can half-filled with beer and half-filled with a mop, marinade or the remains of a rub. As
the chicken smokes, the moisture in the can infuses the bird from the inside out, keeping it
succulent and flavouring it at the same time.
Balancing the open can on the grid while "working" the chicken down over it can prove tricky,
and it helps to use one of the many chicken beer can roasters available from a number of
manufacturers.
NORPRO, pictured below, facilitates infusion by providing a perforated "infuser" to
distribute evaporants from the beer can evenly into the body cavity of the bird.
Ideally, the beer can roaster will have either a tray in which moisture can collect, or be formed
as a wire "cage" with a wide wire base to provide stability when the roaster is placed on the
grid.
Char-broil (left, below) NORPRO (centre and right), and others offer roasters in a variety of
styles and prices.
112
Photos Charbroil (top left), and NORPRO
- Cleaning Tools:
You'll want to clean all fat and grease off racks, hooks and griddles after you finish a smoking
session, and wire brushes and wire wool are ideal for this. It's much easier to do the job
while the fat is still hot – preferably before you close up or put your equipment away. (If this
isn't convenient, you should get the equipment hot before you start your next batch, and clean it
before packing the food onto it).
All the "big names" in barbecue (*Weber, Charcoal Companion, Kingsford, Char-Broil ,
etc), make bespoke grill wire brushes, many with replaceable heads, but a standard wire brush
is more than adequate. Here are a couple of examples from NORPRO (left) and two from
Weber (centre) including a convenient, get-round-all-the-corners example (right):
Photos NORPRO and Weber-Stephen Products LLC

*Weber, RapidFire, and Smokey Mountain Cooker are registered U.S. trademarks of Weber-
Stephen Products LLC.
- Coffee or Spice Grinders:
A small electric coffee grinder is an indispensable tool in smokehouse cookery– not for coffee,
but for grinding dry rub ingredients to a uniform consistency. They're widely available. Better
still is a bespoke dry spice grinder – generally more robust. Here are examples from KRUPS
and Cuisinart, but there are many others:
113
Photos (l to r) KRUPS and Cuisinart
- Drip Pans:
The primary purpose of a drip pan is to prevent fat dripping off smoked food from falling onto
exposed coals and flaring, which risks both the food getting charred and also the emission of
carcinogens from the fatty smoke. A secondary purpose is to keep smoked food moist in a
covered grill used for barbecuing. The most convenient drip pans are disposable aluminium,
but if you do use a more substantial kitchen pan, either wrap it in foil to assist in cleaning, or
stick to cast iron, preferably pre-sprayed with a non-stick cooking spray.
- Fire Tools:
You'll need to be able to arrange and move the coals about in the firebox or firepit, and a small
shovel, preferably all metal, and a poker or rake, or log grabber, are pretty much
indispensable. You can buy them at specialist camping and outdoors outlets or most of the
major online distributors. Landmann make an "industrial" log grabber, capable of handling
pretty hefty chunks of wood, pictured here:
114
Photo Landmann
- Fish Lifters and Spatulas:
Some fish, like eel and catfish, remain relatively firm after barbecuing. Many others, however,
will be flaky when done, and you'll need a good, generous lifter or spatula to lift them from the
rack or grid onto a platter without their breaking up. Because you will often be handling
whole fillets of fish, a long bladed lifter or spatula is an advantage, and the popularity of the
OXO Good Grips Fish Turner (pictured below) is attested to by the fact that it has five-star
rating across most reviews.
115
Photo OXO
- Heat Resistant Gloves:
Tongs are generally better suited for grilling, than barbecuing. Grilling, over open coals, gives
much more latitude in terms of the time it takes to move food around on the grill without
seriously risking a loss of heat and smoke, as there is with barbecuing. Even the most
industrial of tongs can battle, though, with the sort of load and awkward handling
characteristics represented by a large roast, or joint, on the grill, or big logs in the firebox. For
barbecuing, where speed is of the essence and large cuts often the norm, heat resistant gloves
or mittens put you much more directly in contact with the food, and provide more assurance in
gripping it firmly.
Given that temperatures in hot-smoking and barbecuing seldom exceed 70 to 100 C (160 to
210 F), you can generally get away with gloves made of un-insulated leather or suede for food
handling purposes. Insulation is a must, however, for the higher temperatures typically used in
grilling, and for moving or re-positioning coals and logs.
High quality insulated leather cooking gloves, such as the Northline Express "Flamex" leather
gloves, pictured below, offer high heat protection for hands even in direct contact with flames
or burning logs. They are used in fireplaces, stoves, grills and barbecue pits.
Photo Northline Express

Kevlar is another medium, when insulated, which provides good protection. Top favourites,
though, among knowledgeable barbecuers would probably be neoprene supported gloves or
mitts, preferably elbow length or at least with an extendable cuff so you can get your hand right
into the fire or smoke chamber, without singeing all the hairs off your arm! The gloves are
coated with heat resistant neoprene, which can handle most temperatures you are likely to
come up against when grilling or barbecuing. They clean easily, and the fact that they're used
by fire fighters is adequate testimony to their ability to resist high temperatures and withstand
heavy wear.
A number of manufacturers offer them. As an example, Duncan KitchenGrips make several
different varieties, and a nice feature of their barbecue mitts is the provision of a series of
raised nibs, which further limit heat transfer to the palm of the hand, while providing a non-
116
slip grip. While generally associated with hand protection from heat, these gloves are also
highly effective in extreme cold, offering protection from 260 C (500 F) down to minus 92 C
(minus 134 C) – a useful feature when moving food around in the deep freeze!
Photo Duncan Kitchen Grips

- Mincers and Meat Grinders:
Many electric blenders incorporate a mincer or meat grinder attachment. Traditionalists
prefer one of the old, clamp-on, mincers or grinders used by our forefathers. You'll find them
in country antique stores, and they're useful in smokehouse cookery for grinding meat for your
own sausages, smoked meat loafs – and the most delicious (smoked!) hamburgers you and your
kids have ever tasted! Modern day equivalents made by Norpro (in a combined grinder/pasta
maker combo); Weston, CucinaPro and others are fairly widely available. LEM Products
make a stainless steel version (below) which, while a little more expensive than the tinned,
cast-iron equivalents, has had consistently good user reviews.
Photo LEM Products

- Muffin Pans:
While you won't see them mentioned in most smoked food recipe books, they lend themselves
117
to a number of interesting smoking situations and techniques, typically for smoking large
mussels, or oysters, for seafoods like scallops and clams, and for smoked eggs and other
individually prepared snacks, delicacies and tidbits. Avoid the non-stick pans, which don't
last well in a hot smoke environment, and look for the 24-cup version to accommodate a
number of snacks in one sitting. Fox Run Brands make a stainless, as well as a tin-plated pan.
Photo Fox Run Brands

- Pestles and Mortars:
A wooden or stone pestle and mortar is useful for "crushing" herbs and spices, rather than
grinding them into a powder. As with fresh garlic, this helps to release not only a more
pungent flavour, but also the essential oils in the spices and herbs. Because of the tendency of
dry spices to "hop" out of shallow mortars, most users prefer a deep bowl. The CILIO
Granite 5-inch tall mortar and pestle, pictured below, fulfils this requirement, and while it is
not cheap, it is a handsome utensil designed to last a lifetime.
Photo CILIO
- Sauce and Marinade Syringes or Injectors:
Marinade injectors are used to infuse liquids into meat or poultry in order to lard or flavour
the flesh from the inside.
118
The larger syringes – 4 ounces, rather than 2 – are generally more convenient in holding a big
"charge", and you should look for one which offers "ergonomical" thumb and finger tabs, and
an "industrial" strength needle which won't break off when you wiggle it about in the breast of
a turkey to distribute the injection liquid evenly! Prices vary significantly between glass or
plastic at the lower end and stainless steel or nickeled brass at the top end. Look for needles
with multiple holes for the most even spread of liquid into the flesh being injected. The
Weston 4-ounce, brass and nickel, Injector (left, below) offers a good, all-round compromise,
as does the GrillPro (below, right). Both have received good user reviews, but a Google
search will bring up many more.
Photos (l to r) Weston and GrillPro

- Smokehouse Pans and Dishes:
The smoke that imparts the distinctively appealing rich gold or brown colour to smoked food
stains and discolours pans and dishes used in the smoker. Unless you're reconciled to
spending hours removing the stains with a dish scourer or wire wool, it pays to use dishes
which don't stain – like oven-proof glass or ceramic containers – or where the stain simply
adds to the patina on the inside of the pan, like black cast-iron skillets and pots.
Most specialty cook 'n bake outlets, and the majority of supermarkets, hardware and large
discount stores, stock heavy-duty foil oven pans which serve well where food has to be
smoked in a container rather than on a rack, or suspended from hooks.
- Thermometers and Temperature Gauges:
Whether you hot- or cold-smoke, the ability to maintain a consistent temperature is one of the
pillars of all successful smokehouse cooking.
TIP: With extra-long smokers it pays to have two thermometers – one at either end – to ensure
that temperatures are held constant throughout the smoke chamber.
High-end pits, vaults and cabinets are often provided with automatic fuel feeding and
temperature control facilities, but many lower-priced smokers need manual monitoring of
temperature which dictates the need for a reliable thermometer.
A distinction needs to be drawn, however, between thermometers designed to measure the
119
internal temperature of the food being cooked, and those designed to measure the internal
temperature of the smokehouse itself. The former are typically used in grilling; the latter in
smoking.
Prices range from as little as $5 to as high as several hundred. A reasonable pit thermometer
can be obtained for under $40.
Photo River Country

For non-US users, it pays to point out that many pit and grill thermometers made or marketed in
the US have only Fahrenheit scales. *Weber make their replacement thermometers with both
scales, and there are dual-scale thermometers (Fahrenheit and Centigrade) from Outset,
Kingsford, Rubbermaid, and River Country among others. The River Country 3" Dual
Range F and C BBQ Smoker Thermometer, model RC-T3FC, with a range of impressive
features, is pictured above.
- Vacuum Packing and Sealing Machines:
These are, in our view, almost indispensable for keeping not only prepared food in good
condition in the refrigerator or freezer, but also things like dry rubs, pastes, marinades and
other seasoning recipes and mixes. Foodsaver (whose V3835 Vacuum Sealer is pictured
below) is one of the largest brands, with good user reviews, but there are many other reputable
makes including brands like Vacmaster and Uline.
Photo Foodsaver
120
- Links:
A list of links to accessories suppliers above, who feature well in user and trade reviews,
together with expanded information on their products, will be available on our blog,
http://homesmokedfoods.com which is currently under construction, but should be ready at or
shortly after publication:
121
1. Rubs, Seasonings, Mops, Pastes, Marinades and Sauces
1.1 Seasoning: Dry ... Wet ... and Sticky!
- Rubs and Pastes
- Marinades
- Mops and Bastes
- Sauces
1. Rubs, Seasonings, Pastes, Marinades, Mops, Bastes and Sauces.

Pre-seasoning as applied in conventional hot- (and particularly cold-) food smoking, is
generally pretty much limited to salt, a touch of pepper and perhaps a pinch of cooking
saltpetre. Any further flavouring is generally applied after the smoking process has been
completed.
Barbecuing, by contrast, has as one of its distinguishing features the application of one or more
of a quite bewildering array of dry or wet seasonings (sometimes both!) to the food before,
and while, it is smoked. Great barbecuers are typically known quite as much – or more – for
the unique flavours their seasoning recipes impart to the food as they are for special methods
or techniques in the smoking process itself.
This section of the book will be devoted to a general discussion and overview of the whole
gamut of rubs, pastes, marinades, mops, bastes and sauces. (As mentioned earlier, the object
in writing the book is primarily to delve into the techniques, and equipment, needed by the
home smoker, and not to present a whole compendium of recipes – the subject of a follow-up
122
companion to this book already well into the planning stages).
The approach we've adopted, then, is to look at the general principles of each of these
seasoning methods, as applied to the broad classes of foods which lend themselves to smoking,
and the regional characteristics which can be suggested by the seasoning. Then, we've
provided a representative selection of "stock" or "platform" recipes to get you started, and
finally, a list of widely used spices and seasonings which you can use as a "food palette" for
additional culinary colouring.
For a book with a really comprehensive selection of smoked food recipes, one of the best on
the subject, in our view, i s Smoke & Spice: Cooking with Smoke, the Real Way to
Barbecue by Cheryl Alters Jamison, and Bill Jamison; .
(Readers who would like to collaborate in our next book on smokehouse recipes – and be
given the opportunity to receive a free copy (with their name in lights!) please email me at
homesmokedfoods@gmail.com , with the following in the subject line: Subscribe me for
updates and/or I'd like to contribute a favourite recipe.
1.1. Seasoning: Dry ... Wet ... and Sticky!
The "seasoning continuum" typically starts with rubs (generally dry) or pastes (sticky),
progresses through marinades, mops, bastes and injection fluids, and ends with sauces.
The dry ingredients in rubs find many of their fresh counterparts in pastes. Fresh herbs, for
example, like oregano, sage, thyme, basil, parsley and rosemary, which form a staple part of
rubs in their dried form, can be ground (with a pestle and mortar) or blended, pounded or
simply chopped or bruised into the equivalent paste. Fresh or roasted garlic and fresh onion
or shallots provide a good binder for pastes as a substitute for oil, while dry garlic and onion
powder or flakes serve well in rubs.
Often what is used in an earlier phase of the seasoning continuum is incorporated into
something later in it. So, by way of example, a marinade or mop in which food is immersed
(in the first case), or with which it is basted (in the second) may start as the residue of a rub or
a paste and then be further re-cycled as the base ingredient of a sauce.
But it is the pre-, and not just the post-flavouring, that gives barbecuing its essential character.
1.2. Buy? ... or Make?
Every day seems to herald a new brand of barbecue rubs, marinades, sauces, etc., in the shops.
Some are excellent!

Here at home, for example, we have a quite outstanding selection made by Ina Paarman – a
brand which started local and is now finding its way onto supermarket shelves around the
world. Undoubtedly, there will be an equivalent premium brand where you live. Nomu is
123
another local brand which is now appearing in outlets in other countries around the globe.
Other local brands are not quite so excellent! And considering the impact a relatively small
physical amount of rub can exercise in terms of a major influence on the flavour of the end
product, it simply doesn't pay to "buy cheap".
Our own experience is that the variety and quality of locally-available commercial rubs and
sauces is better than that of local pastes or marinades, but this, too, is changing.
Regardless of how good commercial seasonings may be, there are real advantages in making
one's own. Here are just two, of many, reasons:
Firstly, because you only need to make enough for one – or maybe two – barbecues at a time,
you can blend really fresh ingredients and not run the risk of a larger quantity of your rub or
paste being unused, losing flavour and/or going stale. (Making just as much as you need, you
also don't need preservatives when you make for yourself!).
The second reason for making your own is that you can "ring the changes" by using a relatively
small set of ingredients in differing mixes and proportions.
If you do decide to make up larger quantities, you should then vacuum-pack and store them in a
cool, dark place or refrigerate them until required.
TIP: In much the same way as we describe (below) making a "stock" or "platform" rub, paste,
etc., and then adding or subtracting ingredients to and from it, so we have discovered that if
one takes a basic, really good quality, off-the-shelf product and uses that as a base in one's
"stock" or "platform" recipes, one can then add ingredients of one's own choosing to create the
particular effects or flavours one is looking for. What helps, too, is that most countries, by
law, require that the ingredients in any commercial product are displayed on the label, so we
can see if the store-bought product approximates to what we want, and then add to it.
Store-bought is seldom quite as good as home-made – but it's a good compromise, particularly
when one is short of time.
Rubs and Pastes:

- Rubs
124
Dry rubs are typically applied to moist foods, and wet 'n sticky pastes to "drier" foods (to
which they adhere better). In both cases, spices and seasonings are mixed together, but in the
case of rubs the dry spice mixture is worked into the food, whereas the wet paste mixture is
"painted" onto, quite as much as massaged into, the fish or meat being smoked.
Both give variety to the flavour of the food, and are frequently used to provide a crackly,
flavoured, surface crust.
The range of spices, condiments and flavourings which could be used in both rubs and pastes
is little short of encyclopaedic – but most barbecue chefs have found that a relatively small set
of ingredients, in different combinations and permutations, gives more than enough latitude for
creativity.
As you would expect from their historical lineage, salt, sugar and pepper are stock
ingredients. Strong flavourants like dried garlic, sage, thyme and onion feature consistently. In
recipes drawing heavily on Asian or Mexican influences, dried chilli powders are added, as
are curry spices and ginger.
It's easy to under-season with rubs! There's a natural reticence about over-seasoning! – a fear
that the food will be inedible. As a general rule, though, it pays to be generous, rather than
stingy, applying a good, even coating of rub, and shaking off anything that doesn't stick to the
food. A lot of the raw "edge" of the seasoning is moderated in the smoking process.
Good seasoning practice is to wrap the food in cling wrap, or a freezer bag, after the rub has
been applied, and refrigerate it for anything between an hour and a day, depending on the type
and size of the food, with small items generally getting the shorter time, and big cuts of meat or
whole fish somewhat longer.
Dry rubs will keep in the refrigerator, although they do tend over time to lose their "punch",
unless they have been vacuum packed and sealed in air-tight plastic freezer or Zip-loc bags.
Just as soup chefs will start with a basic stock, and then add other ingredients, condiments and
seasonings to it depending on the particular flavours or emphases they want to develop, so we
recommend starting with a basic, "stock" dry rub as a platform for a whole range of more
complex offerings. (It doesn't cover all eventualities, but it's not a bad starting point).
125
For a really comprehensive list of rub recipes we again recommend Smoke & Spice:
Cooking with Smoke, the Real Way to Barbecue b y Cheryl Alters Jamison, and Bill
Jamison.
Here's our basic rub. (To avoid the complications of converting from US to English to Metric
measurements, we give everything in "parts". Typically, the following recipe would make
about 1½ to 2 (US) cups of mixed rub, if you were to substitute tablespoons for "parts")
.-. 4 parts each of coarse salt, ground black pepper, and sugar (the basics of any rub!);
.-.1½ parts of chilli flakes or powder (strength varies considerably from one make to the next,
so you'll need to make notes as to what best suits your taste);
.-.10 parts of paprika;
.-.2 parts of garlic flakes or powder;
.-.2½ parts of onion flakes or powder
.-.⅓ part cayenne pepper
.-.1 part dried parsley
Mix all the ingredients together by shaking them in a plastic bag. (If the particle sizes are
widely different, put them through a small electric coffee or spice grinder – which should be
earmarked, labelled and shelved separately for this purpose. Coffee works well as a rub
ingredient, but the reverse doesn't hold true! – the residues of spicy rub seasonings in a grinder
just don't do it for coffee!).
The rub will store well if kept in a cool, dark place or the refrigerator – particularly if it is
vacuum packed.
Following are some suggested additions to the basic rub, above, for various food types. (As
with all recipes created by you – and we can't say this often enough! – make a point of writing
the recipe down, in detail, so you can replicate it. Nothing hurts so much as creating a
Michelin 3-star candidate which you can't for the life of you remember):
For Pork: Add 1 part dry mustard, or for a slightly "sweeter" flavour add 1 part ground
allspice and ¼ part each of ground cinnamon, nutmeg and oregano.
For Beef: Add 1 part dry mustard, and ¼ part each of dried thyme, coriander and oregano;
For Lamb and Goat: Add ¼ part each of dried mint, allspice and dried rosemary
For Venison: Add ½ part dried and ground cranberries or red currants, and ¼ part each of
ground thyme and oregano;
For Chicken: Add ⅓ part dried, ground lemon zest (which you can dry for yourself in a warm
oven overnight), ¼ part thyme or sage, and substitute 5 parts celery salt for 4 parts coarse salt.
For Turkey: Add ¼ part ground thyme
126
For Salmon and Lake Trout, Catfish and Eel: Add 1 part dried dill, and omit one or all of
the chilli, garlic and onion powder
For Other Seafood, including both Fish and Crustaceans: Add ⅓ part each of dried, ground
lemon zest, mint and dill, omit one or all of the chilli, garlic and onion powder, and reduce
sugar, paprika and cayenne to just ¼ part.
And here are some amendments to the basic rub to suggest regional flavours:
For a Mexican accent, with a bite: Add ⅓ part of dried, ground lemon zest and ¼ part nutmeg,
and substitute celery salt for coarse salt; For more zing, add an additional ½ part chilli!
For a Caribbean accent: Add a suggestion of ground vanilla bean and ground cloves, ⅓ part
each of dried, ground orange or tangerine zest, and mint, and ¼ part ground allspice;
For a Chinese, or Asian, accent: Add 1 part ground Chinese five-spice powder, ¼ part
ground anise, ⅛ part ground ginger, and 1 part palm sugar;
For a Thai, or Korean accent: Add 1 part finely ground peanuts or almonds, ¼ part ground
ginger and 1 part palm sugar;
For a Middle-Eastern accent: Add ¼ part each of ground cumin, ground cinnamon and ground
turmeric.
- Pastes
Turning a dry rub into a paste can involve no more than combining some of the dry seasonings
with a liquid, oil or fat. Animal fats, because of their tendency to congeal as they cool, are
127
harder to handle, but a wide variety of oils – ranging from stock favourites like olive,
sunflower and canola oil, to exotics like flax- and cotton-seed, sesame and peanut oils – can
be used.
In place of oils, puréed herbs, garlic, ginger, fenugreek and other root vegetables can be used
as the paste "binding agent".
Small quantities of thinner liquids such as stock, fruit juices, wine and beer can also be used in
pastes, although the addition of something oily to them will help them to adhere better. For a
distinctly Asian flavour, liquids like soy sauce (often used in substitution for salt), sake, rice
vinegar and fish sauce can be incorporated.
You'll find pastes used more than rubs on foods with subtle or delicate flavours, simply
because pastes generally are less assertively flavoured. So a number of fish and seafood
varieties, and poultry, rely on a paste rather than a rub for pre-seasoning.
Like dry rubs, pastes are first applied over all surfaces of the food being prepared, and then
worked or massaged (gently!) into it. Their consistency has to be thin enough to spread easily
and evenly onto the food, on the one hand, but gooey enough to stick to it, on the other. Once
the paste has been applied and worked into the food, it is then refrigerated in cling wrap, as
described above, from as little as half an hour to a day, depending on size and thickness of the
food being prepared.
As with dry rubs, many chefs like to start with a very basic paste, adding other ingredients to
vary the flavour. Any of the rubs mentioned above, combined with a binding agent such as oil,
or fresh onion or garlic blended into a paste in a food mixer, may form the base of a paste, but
the "stock" paste recipe we would recommend consists of the following ingredients, again
processed in a blender:
.-.5 parts each of coarse salt, freshly ground black pepper, and fresh garlic cloves, peeled;
.-.½ part sugar;
.-.⅛ part each of paprika, chilli powder, fresh parsley and cayenne pepper;
.-.5 parts vegetable, olive, or sesame oil.
The paste doesn't freeze particularly well, but will keep in a covered container in the
refrigerator for 2 to 3 weeks.
Following are some suggested additions to the basic paste, above, for various food types (in
every case reduced to a puree in a food processor). Again, as with all recipes created by you
– and we make no apologies for re-stating this! – make a point of writing the recipe down, in
detail, so you can replicate it. Your award-winning recipe won't stick in your mind after a
couple of beers, so get it down!
For Pork: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: 3 parts fresh sage, cilantro
(coriander), or thyme; 1 part dry mustard; 1 part freshly squeezed lemon, lime or orange juice;
128
2 parts fresh onion; 1 part fresh ginger; 4 parts Bourbon or other sour mash whiskey; 4 parts
Vodka; 2 parts honey; 3 parts cider vinegar; 2 parts maple syrup; 1 part fresh pineapple;
For Beef: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: 1 part dry mustard; 2 parts fresh
onion; 1 part each of fresh thyme, coriander or oregano; 4 parts Vodka; 4 parts beer or stout; 4
parts red wine; 2 parts Worcestershire sauce;
For Lamb and Goat: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: ¼ part of fresh mint;
3 parts fresh sage, rosemary, or thyme; ¼ part allspice; 3 parts dry vermouth; 2 parts maple
syrup; 4 parts curry powder;
For Venison: Add ½ part dried and ground cranberries or red currants, and ¼ part each of
ground thyme and oregano;
For Chicken: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: ⅓ part fresh lemon zest; 2
parts freshly squeezed lime juice; 1 part fresh pineapple; 10 parts fresh
mint/cilantro/oregano/basil mix; 2 parts peanut butter;
For Turkey: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: 3 parts fresh sage, rosemary,
or thyme; 2 parts fresh cranberries, red currants or cranberry/red currant jelly; 1 part freshly
squeezed orange juice; 4 parts Vodka; 2 parts butter; 2 parts Worcestershire sauce; 2 parts
cranberry juice;
For Duck or Goose: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: 3 parts fresh thyme;
1 part freshly squeezed orange juice; 2 parts fresh onion; 1 part fresh ginger; 2 parts Cognac; 2
parts honey; 2 parts maple syrup; 1 part fresh or canned cherries; ¼ part cinnamon; 1 part fresh
orange zest;
F o r Pheasants, Guinea Fowl and Other Game Birds: Add any of the following, or
combinations of them: 1 part fresh thyme; 2 parts fresh onion; 2 parts Cognac; ¼ part
cinnamon; 1 part fresh lemon or orange zest;
For Salmon and Lake Trout, Catfish Eel, Other Seafoods and Crustaceans: Add any of the
following, or combinations of them: 1 part fresh dill or fennel; 4 parts fresh mint; 2 parts
freshly squeezed lemon juice; 2 parts apple cider vinegar;
And here are some amendments to the basic paste to suggest regional flavours:
For a Mexican accent, with a bite: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: 4 parts
juice from a jar of pickled chillies; ⅓ part of fresh lemon zest; 3 parts fresh cilantro
(coriander);
For a Caribbean accent: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: a suggestion of
ground vanilla bean and ground cloves, 1 part each of fresh orange or tangerine zest; 1 part of
freshly squeezed lime juice; 2 parts of dark rum; 1 part fresh mint; ¼ part ground allspice, 2
parts canned pineapples; 2 parts canned pineapple chunks;
129
For a Chinese, or Asian, accent: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: 1 part
light soy sauce (Kikkoman, preferably); 1 part Fish sauce; ¼ part ground anise, ½ part fresh
ginger; 1 part palm sugar; 3 parts rice vinegar; 3 parts sake; 2 parts fresh scallions;
For a Thai, or Korean accent: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: 1 part
light soy sauce (Kikkoman, preferably); 1 part Fish sauce; ¼ part ground anise, ½ part fresh
ginger, and 1 part palm sugar; 1 part peanut or sesame oil;
For a Middle-Eastern or Mediterranean accent: Add any of the following, or combinations
of them: 1 part freshly squeezed lemon, lime or orange juice; 2 parts fresh onion; 4 parts Ouzo;
1 part Kalamata olives; 1 part fresh oregano or rosemary; 10 parts curry powder;
For a North, or West African accent: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: 3
parts peanut butter; ⅛ part nutmeg or cinnamon; ½ part ground anise; 2 parts cane spirit; 2
parts freshly squeezed lime juice; 2 parts peanut oil.
Marinades:
The word marinade (n) and its companion verb marinate, originate from the Italian marinato
which in turn comes from the Latin marina, meaning the sea. The Old French verb mariner
meant to preserve foods specifically for use at sea. In its most basic form, this entailed
immersing the food to be preserved in a strong, salt brine. To improve (or hide!) the flavour
of the food, wines and spices were increasingly added to the brine.
So, today, a marinade is a solution containing oils, acids (like vinegar or wine), and spices.
Today's marinades are typically lighter on the salt than their progenitors, since their purpose is
more to flavour than to preserve. The acidic component also has a tenderising effect, though
130
this is probably not as dramatic as its proponents would like us to believe.
It's not generally appreciated, but milk and yoghurt, because of their lactic acid content, are
categorised, in the context of marinades, as acids, rather than fats or oils.
As was mentioned earlier in relation to pastes, oil is generally preferred to animal fat in
marinades, because the latter tends to coagulate as the marinade cools or is refrigerated.
As a general rule of thumb fatty foods require a greater proportion of acids, while lean dry
foods like white fish and chicken breasts, need more oil. The flavours imparted by spices and
herbs tend to be diluted as a result of their infusion into a liquid, so you need to go quite strong
on their quantities. It also helps to crush them, or additionally to inject them using a cooking or
fluid injection syringe.
Because of the acid component of the marinade, care should be taken to select containers
which the acid will not attack. Aluminium is very unsuitable, so use stainless or glass for
mixing. Plastic is also a contender, provided you have pre-tested it to ensure it doesn't impart
a plastic-y taste. Once the marinade has been blended, it can be refrigerated in sealable
plastic freezer or Zip-Loc bags.
Different foods require different approaches to marinating. As a general rule, light-flavoured
foods like fish require less acid and spices, and a shorter time, than heavily flavoured foods
like beef and wildfowl, which benefit from a robust, acidic and strongly spice-flavoured
composition over an extended period of time.
As to how long to marinate, for most sea foods as little as 20 to 30 minutes is often enough,
while at the other extreme for large cuts of beef, you could allow anything up to a day or a day
and a half.
Marinades don't penetrate much below the surface of the food being prepared, so be careful
not to apply them for too long, lest the meat becomes soft and pulpy. Using a well-sealed
plastic bag in which to marinate makes it easy to turn the food during the process – which
should be at least once or twice! Using a bag also means that as little as half as much
marinade is needed as would be required for an open dish or tray.
The marinade should have as uniform a consistency as possible, which means that a blender is
an indispensable tool in the process. As with a good mayonnaise, the oil should be dribbled
into the vinegar or lemon juice as it is being blended, with the herbs and spices blended into
the marinade at the end.
Unused marinade can be refrigerated or frozen and then used in sauces or gravies. Used,
leftover marinade should ideally be discarded. If you do decide to use it, as a baste or
mopping liquid, make sure that it is first boiled vigorously to kill off any bacteria transferred
from the food being treated to the containers in which the marinade is stored.
Our "stock" marinade recipe follows, and as with our rub and paste recipes it should be seen
131
simply as a useful platform from which to develop more complex mixtures for different food
types chosen by you:
Blend in a food processor until smooth:
.-.8 parts dry Vermouth
.-.4 parts cider vinegar
.-.4 parts light soy sauce (Kikkoman preferred)
.-.1 part coarse salt
.-.2 parts apricot jelly or jam
.-.¼ part freshly ground black pepper
.-.¼ part freshly minced garlic
.-.2 parts vegetable oil
The marinade can be stored, preferably in a glass container, in the refrigerator for up to a
week.
Following are some suggested additions to the basic marinade, above, for various food types
(in every case blended to a thin liquid in a food processor – lump-free if you're going to inject
it with a fluid injection syringe!). Here we go again, and again we make no apologies for re-
stating this! – write your recipe down, in detail, so you can replicate it. Accolades from
friends and guests are all part of the "gentle bragging" dimension of BBQ, so you don't want to
lose out on them!):
For Pork: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: 2 parts fresh sage or thyme; 2
parts freshly squeezed lemon, lime or orange juice; 1 part fresh onion; 1 part fresh ginger; 3
parts Bourbon or other sour mash whiskey; 3 parts Vodka; 2 parts honey; 2 parts maple syrup;
onion; 1 part each of fresh thyme, coriander or oregano; 3 parts Vodka; 4 parts beer or stout; 4
parts red wine; 2 parts Worcestershire sauce;
For Lamb and Goat: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: ½ part of fresh mint;
3 parts fresh sage, rosemary, or thyme; ¼ part allspice; 2 parts maple syrup; 3 parts curry
powder;
For Venison: Add ½ part dried and ground cranberries, and ¼ part each of ground thyme and
oregano;
parts freshly squeezed lime juice; 1 part tinned pineapple juice; 8 parts fresh
mint/cilantro/oregano/basil mix; 2 parts peanut butter; 2 parts peanut oil;
or thyme; 2 parts fresh cranberries or cranberry jelly; 1 part freshly squeezed orange juice; 4
132
parts Vodka; 4 parts Port; 2 parts Worcestershire sauce; 2 parts cranberry juice;
orange zest;
F o r Pheasants, Guinea Fowl and Other Game Birds: : Add any of the following, or
combinations of them: 1 part fresh thyme; 2 parts fresh onion; 2 parts Cognac; ¼ part
cinnamon; 1 part fresh lemon zest;
freshly squeezed lemon juice; 2 parts apple cider vinegar;
And here are some amendments to the basic marinade to suggest regional flavours:
For a Mexican accent, with a bite: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: 4 parts
juice from a jar of pickled chillies; ⅓ part fresh lemon zest; 3 parts fresh cilantro (coriander);
2 parts freshly squeezed lemon or lime juice; 4 parts Tequila; ½ part Tabasco or other hot
chilli sauce;
freshly squeezed lime juice; 2 parts of dark rum; 1 part fresh mint; ¼ part ground allspice; 3
parts freshly squeezed orange juice; juice from a can of tinned pineapples;
For a Chinese, or Asian, accent: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: ¼ part
ground anise, ½ part fresh ginger; 1 part palm sugar; 3 parts rice vinegar; 3 parts sake; 1 part
soy sauce;
For a Thai, or Korean accent: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: ¼ part
ground anise, ½ part fresh ginger, and 1 part palm sugar; 1 part peanut or sesame oil; 1 part
soy sauce;
For a North or West African accent: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: 3
parts freshly squeezed lime juice.
133
Mops and Bastes:
Mops, also often referred to as "bastes", are used partly to keep food moist, and rather less as
a means of adding or moderating flavour.
Not all smoking equipment lends itself to mopping or basting, and some foods benefit more
from the process than others. Smokers like vertical, or water smokers, for example generally
create a moister smoke environment than pits or larger cabinets, making mops unnecessary or
redundant, and opening them in order to mop or baste can also lose valuable heat.
Because mops are wet, and because they are typically applied during, rather than before or
after, the smoking process, they should be avoided altogether when using smokers employing
electric heating plates or elements, unless the manufacturer specifically states that the plates
are isolated. As with all electrical equipment, ensure that electrical hot plates are grounded
(or earthed).
Stove-top smokers, which in many respects double as steamers, generally should not be
opened at all during the smoke process – which pretty much precludes the possibility of
mopping or basting when using them.
Mopping is also totally unsuitable for cold-smoking, where the whole purpose of the process
is to dry the food, not moisten it, and even with conventional hot-smoking, moist or oily foods
may well not be suitable candidates for mopping or basting.
Because you risk losing heat every time you open the lid of a smoker, a good rule for mopping
is to do it only when you have to open the lid for some other pressing reason – to add more
fuel, for example.
While mops can be fairly complex, because their primary purpose is to moisten, rather than
flavour, they are often less complicated than rubs, pastes and marinades. At their most basic
they may consist of no more than a pot of spiced beer, or wine. As mentioned above, a
marinade can form the base of a mop, provided that used marinades should be thoroughly
boiled to avoid any bacterial contamination from bacteria transmitted from the food to the
marinade in which it is steeped.
For, particularly, dry foods like white fish and poultry the mop needs a good quantity of oil or
butter fat. Oilier foods need less fat and rather more acids, like wine, vinegar or lemon juice.
Because you want to slosh the mop onto the food, you need something that soaks up and holds
134
rather more liquid than, say, a brush, and the most popular tool resembles a miniature floor
mop. Picking up bits of surface food during the mopping process is pretty much unavoidable,
so in order to minimise the risk of transferring bacteria from the food to the basting liquid, it
should be kept at a highish temperature while it is in use, and boiled vigorously if it is going to
be re-used. And it goes without saying that the mop itself should be thoroughly washed and
sanitised between uses.
As with the paste and marinade recipes given above, we're going to provide only our "stock"
mop recipe. Use this as a platform from which to launch your own more complex recipes, or
refer to the exhaustive selection given in
Photo: Fukushima Food Processor by Ray Larabie: Flickr Creative Commons

.-.12 parts water or light chicken stock
.-.4 parts dry sherry
.-.16 parts cider vinegar
.-.4 parts light soy sauce (Kikkoman preferred)
.-.2 parts coarse salt
.-.1 part sugar
.-.3 parts freshly ground black pepper
.-.1 part freshly minced garlic
.-.1 part paprika
The mop can be stored, preferably in a glass container, in the refrigerator for up to a week.
Following are some suggested additions to the basic mop, above, for various food types (in
every case blended to a thin liquid in a food processor). And guess what? Yeah! That's
right! Write your recipe down so you can replicate it. As they say, "it's in the detail", so don't
skimp on it!):
135
parts freshly squeezed lemon, lime or orange juice; 2 parts fresh onion; 1 part fresh ginger; 3
parts Bourbon or other sour mash whiskey; 3 parts Vodka; 2 parts honey; 2 parts maple syrup;
1 part Worcestershire sauce; 1 part of one of the dry rubs detailed above; 4 parts vegetable oil;
8 parts Coca Cola;
onion; 1 part each of fresh thyme, coriander or oregano; 3 parts Vodka; 10 parts beer or stout;
8 parts red wine; 2 parts Worcestershire sauce;
For Lamb and Goat: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: ¼ part of fresh mint;
3 parts fresh sage, rosemary, or thyme; ¼ part allspice; 2 parts maple syrup; 3 parts curry
powder; 8 parts Coca Cola;
For Venison: Add ½ part fresh, or dried and ground, cranberries or red currants, and ¼ part
each of fresh or dried and ground thyme and oregano; 1 part of one of the dry rubs detailed
above; 8 parts Coca Cola;
parts freshly squeezed lime juice; 1 part tinned pineapple juice; 8 parts fresh
mint/cilantro/oregano/basil mix; 2 parts peanut butter; 2 parts peanut oil; 1 part of one of the
dry rubs detailed for chicken, above;
or thyme; 2 parts fresh cranberries, red currants or cranberry/red currant jelly; 1 part freshly
squeezed orange juice; 4 parts Vodka; 4 parts Port; 2 parts Worcestershire sauce; 2 parts
cranberry juice; 1 part of one of the dry rubs detailed for turkey, above; 8 parts Coca Cola;
1 part freshly squeezed orange juice; 2 parts fresh onion; ½ part fresh ginger; 2 parts Cognac; 2
orange zest; 1 part of one of the dry rubs detailed above;
F o r Pheasants, Guinea Fowl and Other Game Birds: Add any of the following, or
combinations of them: 1 part fresh thyme; 2 parts fresh onion; 2 parts Cognac; 4 parts dry
sherry; ¼ part cinnamon; 1 part fresh lemon zest;
freshly squeezed lemon juice; 2 parts apple cider vinegar; and substitute fish stock for chicken
stock;
And here are some amendments to the basic mop or baste to suggest regional flavours:
For a Mexican accent, with a bite: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: 4
parts juice from a jar of pickled chillies; ⅓ part of fresh lemon zest; 3 parts fresh cilantro; 2
136
parts freshly squeezed lemon or lime juice; 4 parts Tequila
freshly squeezed lime juice; 4 parts of dark rum; 1 part fresh mint; ¼ part ground allspice; 3
parts freshly squeezed orange juice; juice from a can of tinned pineapples;
For a Chinese, or Asian, accent: Add any of the following, or combinations of them ¼ part
ground anise, 1 part fresh ginger; 1 part palm sugar; 3 parts rice vinegar; 3 parts sake;
For a Thai, or Korean accent: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: ¼ part
ground anise, ½ part fresh ginger, and 1 part palm sugar; 1 part peanut or sesame oil;
Sauces:
Sauces can be used as bastes, side offerings, as pour-over flavourings or as dipping sauces.
They can be created from a fresh start, or as mentioned previously, they can form the end of a
chain starting with rubs or pastes, and progressing through marinades, mops and bastes. In this
latter case, because the sauce is applied at the end of the smoking process, and frequently after
the smoking process is all over, it is imperative if any of the preceding mixes are used, that
they are boiled vigorously so as to avoid transference of bacteria from an earlier stage to a
later one.
If a sauce is used as a final baste or glaze, it should generally be applied only in the last hour
or so of the smoking process. This is particularly important if the sauce contains tomato (raw,
paste, puree, ketchup etc) which tends to burn if exposed to heat for too long.
As a general rule, you don't want thin sauces! They need to be nice and gooey! Three tips are
useful in accomplishing this. The first is to "reduce" your sauce to as little as one third of its
137
starting volume. The second is to add sugary/sticky ingredients, like honey, canned pineapple,
apricot jam or jelly, and peanut butter. And the third is to use (with discretion!) a thickening
agent like cornflour.
While tomato ketchup and tomato paste don't usually work well in pastes, marinades, mops and
bastes because of the tendency of tomato to burn, we like them in on-the-side or pour-over
sauces.
Beer and stout give body to sauces, and spirits like Vodka, Bourbon, and Brandy impart a rich,
patrician flavour. (Practically all of the alcohol is burnt off during the reduction process, but
the remaining flavour definitely adds character and pizzazz).
Our "stock" sauce recipe follows, and as with our rub, paste, marinade and mop recipes it
should be seen simply as a useful platform from which to develop more complex mixtures for
different food types chosen by you:

.-.6 parts canned pineapple
.-.6 parts apple cider vinegar
.-.6 parts water, chicken, beef or fish stock
.-.6 parts pineapple juice from the can
.-.6 parts chopped raw onion
.-.1 part fresh garlic
.-.2 parts Bourbon
.-.⅛ part fresh chilli
.-.1 part ground black pepper
.-.Salt to taste.
Bring to the boil, then reduce heat and simmer until the mixture has reduced to about one third
138
or less its original volume. While still hot add 1 part butter or olive oil.
The sauce can be used immediately, or refrigerated and re-heated prior to using.
Most of the suggested additions to the basic mop and baste recipe, above, can be blended into
the basic sauce recipe, or substituted for some of its ingredients:
parts freshly squeezed lemon, lime or orange juice; 2 parts fresh onion; 1 part fresh ginger; 3
parts Vodka; 2 parts honey; 2 parts maple syrup; 1 part Worcestershire sauce; 1 part of one of
the dry rubs detailed above; 4 parts vegetable oil; 8 parts Coca Cola;
onion; 1 part each of fresh thyme or oregano; 3 parts Vodka; 10 parts beer or stout; 8 parts red
wine; 2 parts Worcestershire sauce;
For Lamb and Goat: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: 1 part mint jelly; 3
parts fresh sage, rosemary, or thyme; ¼ part allspice; 2 parts maple syrup; 3 parts curry
powder; 8 parts Coca Cola; 8 parts red wine;
For Venison: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: 4 parts fresh or canned
cranberries or red currants; 4 parts cranberry/red currant jelly; 2 parts mint jelly; ¼ part each
of ground thyme and oregano; 1 part of one of the dry rubs detailed above; 8 parts red wine; 8
parts Coca Cola;
parts freshly squeezed lime juice; 8 parts fresh mint/cilantro/oregano/basil mix; 1 part mint
jelly; 2 parts peanut butter; 2 parts peanut oil; 1 part of one of the dry rubs detailed above;
F o r Turkey: Add any of the following, or combinations of them: 3 parts fresh sage,
rosemary, or thyme; 4 parts fresh cranberries or red currants, or cranberry/red currant jelly; 1
part freshly squeezed orange juice; 4 parts Vodka; 4 parts Port; 2 parts Worcestershire sauce;
4 parts cranberry juice; 1 part of one of the dry rubs detailed above; 8 parts Coca Cola;
parts honey; 2 parts maple syrup; 4 parts fresh or canned cherries; ¼ part cinnamon; 1 part
fresh orange zest; 1 part of one of the dry rubs detailed above;
F o r Pheasants, Guinea Fowl and Other Game Birds: : Add any of the following, or
combinations of them: 1 part fresh thyme; 2 parts fresh onion; 2 parts Cognac; 4 parts dry
sherry; ¼ part cinnamon; 1 part fresh lemon zest;2 parts cranberry or red currant jelly;
For Salmon and Lake Trout, Catfish Eel, Other Seafoods and Crustaceans: Generally, we
favour a very simple presentation of fish and seafood, as sauces can so easily swamp the
natural flavour of the fish. A basic sauce could contain:
139
.-.6 parts fish stock
.-.6 parts freshly squeezed orange, lime or lemon juice
.-.1 part zest from the relevant citrus fruit above
.-.3 parts fresh dill
.-.1 part anise
.-.6 parts off-dry white wine
.-.1 part ground black pepper
.-.Salt to taste.
And here are some amendments to the basic sauce recipe to suggest regional flavours:
For a Mexican accent, with a bite: Add or substitute any of the following, or combinations of
them: 4 parts juice from a jar of pickled chillies; ⅓ part of fresh lemon zest; 3 parts fresh
cilantro; 2 parts freshly squeezed lemon or lime juice; 4 parts Tequila;
For a Caribbean accent: Add or substitute any of the following, or combinations of them: a
suggestion of ground vanilla bean and ground cloves, 1 part each of fresh orange or tangerine
zest; 1 part of freshly squeezed lime juice; 4 parts of dark rum; 1 part fresh mint; ¼ part ground
allspice; 3 parts freshly squeezed orange juice; juice from a can of tinned pineapples;
For a Chinese, or Asian, accent: Add or substitute any of the following, or combinations of
them: ¼ part ground anise, 1 part fresh ginger; 1 part palm sugar; 3 parts rice vinegar; 3 parts
sake; 2 parts soy sauce;
For a Thai, or Korean accent: Add or substitute any of the following, or combinations of
them: ¼ part ground anise; ½part fresh ginger, and 1 part palm sugar; 1 part peanut or sesame
oil; 2 parts soy sauce;
For a Middle-Eastern or Mediterranean accent: Add or substitute any of the following, or
combinations of them: 1 part freshly squeezed lemon, lime or orange juice; 2 parts fresh onion;
4 parts Ouzo; 1 part Kalamata olives; 1 part fresh oregano or rosemary; 10 parts curry powder;
140
Injection Liquids:
Injection liquids are used primarily to moisten and flavour dry meats, such as chicken and
turkey breasts, and venison – internally! They are injected using a special cooking syringe
provided with a number of holes spaced out along the length of the needle, so as to inject the
fluid at various depths in the flesh being processed.
Photo Weston
The injection technique is similar to that used by a dentist giving a local anaesthetic, where the
needle is either moved (gently!) around as the injection fluid is administered, or where the
needle is inserted into closely adjacent areas, with a portion of the fluid being injected during
each insertion.
To avoid clogging, the injection fluid has to be free of lumps. A very simple fluid could
consist of:
.-.8 parts oil (vegetable, olive or – preferably – a flavoured oil like peanut, sesame or garlic)
.-.6 parts cider or beer
.-.¼ part dissolved salt or soy
.-.1 part paprika
.-.1 part cayenne.
As with the marinades, mops and bastes listed above, these basic ingredients can be
substituted or added to with others from the list below (taking care to use only liquids and fine
141
powders – like mustard powder – to avoid lumps).
To be completely safe, we'd recommend straining the liquid through muslin before using it.
Following is a list of ingredients which can feature in rubs, pastes, marinades, mops, bastes,
sauces and injection liquids. Most are mentioned in the stock recipes, and optional additions
to recipes, described above. The list by no means covers all possible ingredients: in different
combinations and permutations, though, it should prove more than adequate as a palette for all
but the Michelangelo's of smoked food artistry.
A Allspice; anise; anchovy paste; apple juice; apple;
B black pepper; brown sugar; bourbon; beer; butter; bell pepper; bay leaf; beef stock; basil;
C coarse salt; chilli powder; cayenne pepper; celery salt; cinnamon; coffee; cumin; curry
powder; corn oil; cilantro; cider vinegar; cider; chicken stock; Coca-Cola; celery; coconut;
cherries (dried); cherries (canned); cranberries, canned; cranberries, fresh; cranberries, dried;
currant jelly; capers; cloves, ground;
D Dry mustard; dill;
E Egg;
F Five-spice; fish sauce; Fennel seeds;
G Garlic powder; ginger, ground; ginger, fresh; garlic cloves; garlic flavoured oil; ground
cloves;
H Herbs (mixed); honey;
142
K Ketchup;
L Lemon juice; lime juice; lemon; lemon grass;
M Mace; molasses; mustard, dry; mustard, Dijon; mayonnaise; Maple syrup; mint jelly; mint,
fresh; marsala wine; mushrooms;
N Nutmeg;
O Onion powder; onion salt; oregano; onion flakes; olive oil; onion; orange juice; orange
zest; orange liqueur; olives; oil, olive; oil, vegetable; oil, peanut; oil, sesame; oil, garlic-
flavoured;
P Paprika; peanut oil; pineapple, canned; prunes; parsley; peppercorns; pesto; peanut butter;
pickling liquid; pepper, black; pepper, bell; pepper, cayenne;
R Red wine; rum; rosemary; raspberry vinegar; red currant, fresh; red currant jelly;
S salt, coarse; salt, table; salt, celery; salt, onion; sugar, white; sugar, brown; sugar,
Turbinado; sage; soy sauce; scallions; sherry; stout; stock, beef; stock, chicken; stock, fish or
seafood; sake;
T Turbinado; thyme; tequila; turmeric; Tabasco; tomatoes; tomato paste; tangerines; tamarind;
tomato juice;
V Vegetable oil; vodka; vermouth; vinegar, wine; vinegar, cider; vinegar, raspberry;
W White pepper; Worcestershire sauce; white wine; wine vinegar; wine, red.
143
Photos (l to r): rib closeup and Smoked Turkey by Daryn Nakhuda (ddaarryynn): Flickr
Creative Commons
1. GENERAL RECOMMENDATIONS FOR SMOKING FOODS
2. MEAT
2.1. Pork
2.2. Beef
2.3. Mutton, Lamb and Goat
2.4. Veal
2.5. Venison
3. CHICKEN AND OTHER BIRDS
4. FISH
5. CRUSTACEANS, SHELLFISH AND OTHER SEAFOODS
6. NUTS, VEGETABLES AND FRUIT
7. SNACKS, RELISHES, DIPS AND APPETISERS
8. DAIRY, SOUPS AND STOCKS, LEFTOVERS AND ETCETERAS
Dyed in the wool traditionalists will tell you that barbecue IS pork! – (or beef, if you happen
to be in Texas!). They may stretch a (reluctant) point to include chicken, and acknowledge that
those who know no better will include fish – but mention shellfish, vegetables or fruit –
FRUIT!!? – as candidates for smoking, and you risk bringing back the stocks, or even being
stoned for heresy!
Fortunately, there's an increasing number of smokehouse adventurers who are realising that
there are very few foods that can't be smoked, and a very large and increasing number that can
– and should be! Again, we would refer you to Smoke & Spice: Cooking with Smoke, the
144
Real Way to Barbecue b y Cheryl Alters Jamison, and Bill Jamison, with an assurance, in
doing so, that while we are unabashed admirers, we are not close relatives, and nor do we
share in any royalties on their excellent book!
In looking at the whole gamut of foods that are smokehouse candidates, we are again not going
to compile a compendium of recipes, but rather take a generic approach to exploring the basics
of smoking as they apply to each broad food grouping. For the seasonings, rubs, pastes,
marinades, mops, bastes and sauces which give so many smoked dishes their distinctive
character we would refer you to the previous section PART 6: PRE-EMINENTLY
BARBECUE! giving a list of suggested "platform" recipes from which to launch out into
something more creative.
We look first at meat, then at fowl, and then at good red herring (and some other fish, as well).
Shellfish and crustaceans are treated separately, as are vegetables, fruit and nuts, eggs, cheese
and a few other exotics. And finally, we consider the derivatives of these foods like dips,
sauces, patties, sausages and soufflés. (So, okay, bring on the Star Chamber and the stocks!)
In each case we look, first, at barbecuing, and then, in turn, cold-smoking and conventional
hot-smoking.

While different food types require different smoking approaches and techniques, there is a set
of generic rules and recommendations that apply across all of the food categories listed
below. Rather than repeat them for each food type, we offer them here as a basic "Rule Set":
1 . 1 . Bacterial Infection: Harmful bacteria thrive in a moist environment at temperatures
below 70 C (around 160 F). To be on the safe side, therefore, with barbecuing and hot
smoking, it's important to ensure that temperatures are maintained at least 10% above this
level, which in most case is just above the level that food will register inside when done. The
rule is different with cold smoking where bacterial spoilage is managed by salting and drying
the food being processed, and much lower temperatures can be employed.
145
1 . 2 . Importance of having a reliable thermometer. When grilling, it's generally enough to
measure the temperature of the inside of the food. Barbecuing and hot-smoking, however,
require that temperatures be measured in the smoke chamber itself. Where the chamber
stretches over some distance, two thermometers are often recommended – one at either end.
And for the most accurate readings, it's preferable to have a probe extending into, as opposed
to simply attaching the thermometer to the surface of, the chamber.
Photo River Country

1.3. Cold Smoking vs Hot Smoking and Barbecue: As discussed earlier, hot-smoking and
barbecuing provide a generous amount of latitude in regard to temperature "spikes" providing
they are short in duration; whereas a sudden spike in temperature when cold-smoking can be
disastrous. Some chefs allow their barbecues to go as high as 120°C to 150°C (250°F to
300°F). This isn't generally recommended, but there could be an argument for it in the case of
really thick cuts of meat which are intrinsically tender, and which require neither a long period
of smoking for tenderness, nor a particularly assertive infusion of smoke.
1 . 4 . What to do if you don't have useful controls. Controls which automatically regulate
smoking time, temperature and smoke density are invaluable, but the basics as practised by our
forefathers still hold good, albeit they are less reliable and require more work, viz: varying the
number of logs in a fire which is (preferably) located some distance away from the smoke
chamber, using different fuels to provide differing degrees of heat, and providing some means
of regulating the draft to draw the smoke over the food being processed. (This could be as
146
simple as lifting one corner of a piece of burlap forming the lid of a barrel smoker!)
Another trick if your smoker is difficult to maintain at a constant, relatively low temperature is
to vary the cooking time and subtract a few minutes to compensate for a higher heat.
1.5. The effects of weather. Sun, cold, rain and wind all have a significant effect on cooking
temperatures in all but the most sophisticated of smokers. Smoker temperatures rise on a hot
day, particularly if the smoker is in the sun for any part of the smoking process. Cold, cloudy
days cause a significant temperature drop, and wind can affect venting and air circulation in
the smoke chamber. Preventative measures include the provision of adequate insulation in the
manufacture of the smoker, placing the smoker in a position where there's relatively constant
shade, and aligning it so that the vents are correctly positioned in relation to the wind.
Photo: weather-icon-set_500x500 by Ilya Sedykh (Schmector): Flickr Creative Commons

1 . 6 . De-frosting or de-refrigerating: In order to ensure consistent, even cooking, it's
important, before placing it in the smoker, to bring food taken out of the freezer or refrigerator
up to room temperature, to prevent a cold core in the food from reaching a temperature where
bacteria will be killed while it is being smoked.
1.7. Drip pans and fat: Fat is something of a double-edged blessing in barbecue. You don't
want it to drip onto naked coals because of the possibility of flaring, and the danger of
carcinogens being released onto the food as a result. On the other hand, fat is a natural basting
agent. The solution is to provide a drip pan, which collects fat which is not absorbed as a
natural baste, and prevents it from catching fire. It follows that meat like brisket should be
placed onto the grid fat side up to ensure that the fat bastes the meat as it runs off it. Any fat
which hasn't been shed during the cooking process can be cut off before serving.
1 . 8 . Searing: Certain meats, particularly those that are intrinsically tender like fillet
(tenderloin) and which require relatively short cooking times, should be seared before
smoking. It's important to sear all surfaces of the meat in a sizzling hot cast-iron frying pan or
skillet, with the addition of a few drops of oil.
1.9. Dry meats: Meats which are intrinsically dry, like turkey breast, leg of wild boar, and
147
other venison benefit from the injection of moistening liquids deep into the meat itself. Use a
strained marinade, or a specially prepared injection liquid, and move the injection needle
around gently as the fluid is introduced in order to ensure it has been well and evenly
distributed in the flesh.
Photo Weston
1.10. Mops, Bastes and Sauces: There's no real necessity for mops and bastes in a smoker
where the seal is so good that moisture naturally released from the food is contained in the
smoke chamber. The same applies in large measure to vertical water smokers.
Unused remnants of mops and bastes can profitably be used in sauces, but it is essential, in
order to avoid bacterial transference, that the mop or baste is vigorously boiled before being
incorporated into the sauce.
Photo: Play Safe or YOU WILL DIE by Paul Downey (psd): Flickr Creative Commons
1.11. Safety: Electricity and liquids are not good bed mates! The electric heating element in
some high-end electric smokers is sufficiently well insulated that mops and bastes can be
safely applied to food in the smoke chamber, but if in doubt the rule is never to apply a mop or
baste during smoking in a smoker that uses electricity as a heat source.
148
2. MEAT.
Photo: rubbed by Daryn Nakhuda (ddaarryynn): Flickr Creative Commons

General Recommendations:
See the "General Recommendations for Smoking", above, as they affect smoking temperature,
de-frosting or de-refrigerating, smoking times, mopping and basting, etc.
Additionally, the following special recommendations for smoking meat, in particular, should
be considered:
1. generally, fat should be left on until the smoking process is completed, and then removed
prior to carving or serving. The fat should be uppermost when the meat is placed on the grid.
Doing this preserves the moisture in the meat and the fat acts as a natural basting agent;
2. drier cuts of meat, such as uncooked leg of pork, or venison, benefit from being marinated,
or injected with an injection fluid. Or both! In the case of a marinade, the meat should be
placed, with the liquid, in a plastic bag and refrigerated overnight. If an injection fluid is used,
the fluid should be injected deep into a number of points on the joint, with a cooking or
injection syringe. The needle of the syringe can be wiggled around as the fluid is injected
(taking care to do this gently, so the point doesn't snap off!), and the injection fluid can contain
a good quantity of oil, without making the meat greasy. (The oil tends to spread and melt off as
149
the meat heats up);
3. whatever is left over of the marinade, or the injection fluid, can generally be incorporated
into a mop, or baste, as long as the liquid is boiled or heated to prevent bacterial transfer and
spoiling;
4. traditionally, different meats are served with different accompaniments. Pork, for example,
is frequently accompanied by apple; and veal by orange. Lamb is traditionally complemented
by mint, and venison by red currants. Infusing these specific accompaniments into injection
liquids or marinades, not only preserves a traditional flavour, but adds individuality to your
offering;
5. some meats, like chuck, and brisket, have naturally strong, and distinctive flavours which
dictate a milder rub, paste, marinade or mop than you would use on blander meats such as
veal, and wild pig, for example;
6. sauces can add to the appeal of all meats, but they work particularly well with the milder
flavoured meats like venison (with a red currant jelly foundation), lamb (mint) and veal (a
good cranberry or orange sauce). The addition of a dash of cognac, bourbon, tequila,
vermouth or wine at the beginning of the sauce preparation provides a real taste wakener;
7. All meats should be allowed to "rest" for 10 to 15 minutes after smoking, before carving
and serving.
2.1. Pork:
(By starting with pork, perhaps we'll at least gain a stay of execution by the purists!)
150
Photo: Porker by Mark Fosh (foshie): Flickr Creative Commons
Maybe they're right to be so protective! Fossils indicate that a pig-like creature populated the
swamps and woodlands of Asia and Europe over 40 million years ago. It probably wasn't
smoked back then, but it was undoubtedly eaten!
In slightly more recent times, domesticated pigs were being raised in Europe by the early part
of the sixteenth century. Columbus, by royal decree, took eight pigs with him on his voyage to
Cuba in 1493.
But it is to the Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto that America owes its whole pork industry.
De Soto landed at Tampa Bay, Florida, in 1539 with just 13 pigs as a brood stock. Some of
their progeny escaped and became feral (the ancestors of today's wild razorbacks); some were
raided by Native Americans, who developed a fondness for their flesh; others were bartered
or given to said Native Americans to negotiate peace settlements; some were eaten by de
Soto's men, and from the breeding remnant a herd of 700 animals had been bred by the time of
de Sotos's death in 1542.
So successfully did the pigs breed that by the mid 1600's the pig population in all but the most
westerly states of the US had reached almost unmanageable proportions. On Manhattan Island
a long, solid wall was constructed to contain marauding pigs on the northern edge of the
colony. Today, populated by bears and bulls, it is known as Wall Street!
Whether you smoke the entire pig, or go for something a little more manageable, a golden rule
is that if you have to use a knife, you may not have gotten it right! Barbecued pork is typically
shredding, tearing, forking, finger-chunking meat!
To help you get an understanding of where each cut of pork comes from, here's a simplified
chart:
151
LEGEND: 1 = Jowl; 2 = Trotters; 3 = Hock; 4 = Picnic Shoulder; 5 = Boston Butt
(Shoulder); 6 = Clear Plate; 7 = Back Fat; 8 = Loin; 9 = Spare Ribs; 10 = Bacon (aka
Side/Belly); 11 = Leg or Ham
- Shoulder:
The whole shoulder of a full-grown porker is a very big chunk of meat, taking upwards of 12
to 18 hours in the smoker. Typically, it's butchered into two, more manageable, separate cuts,
the Boston butt and the picnic, with the former (or half of it!) generally preferred for most
barbecuing purposes.
- Ribs:
While different states, and even counties, in the US show marked preferences for one cut of
pork over another, on the global stage there's a strong case for saying that spare ribs have pride
of place in the growing global attraction of "the barbecue".
Outside the US, moister ribs are generally preferred, necessitating a shorter smoking time, (as
little as 45 minutes to an hour and a half), regular mopping, and – horrors! – a sharp knife to
separate the ribs in order to eat them. Often, the ribs are partially cooked and pre-smoked,
placed in a marinade in sealed plastic packaging, and sold for finishing on an open grill.
If you prefer them drier, and crunchier, you'll want to smoke them longer, and go easy on the
mop. At around four hours, like other cuts of pork, the ribs should be "pull-apart" ready.
You'll need another hour or two to get them really dry, crunchy and "fall-apart" done.
As you'll see from the chart above, "ribs" come from various parts of the pig, with spareribs
(which come from the side or belly, forward of the bacon) probably holding pride of place for
barbecuing.
- Hams:
Hams comprise essentially the back quarter of the pig, typically around 27kg or 60 pounds, of
which half is suitable for smoked or fresh ham. Conventional cold-smoked, or cured, hams –
like the ones our forefathers hung in the smoky chimney breasts of their homes – can take
months, and even years, to cure. Barbecued hams, by contrast, can be pull-apart ready after 6
or 7 hours, and "fall-apart done" after a day.
152
- Loin (Tenderloin):
The tenderloin sits beneath the ribs, next to the backbone. In the UK it is known as fillet, and
as filet in France and a major part of Europe. Because the muscle comprising the tenderloin
does very little work, particularly in domesticated animals, it is the tenderest cut of meat, and
probably better grilled or fried than barbecued.
- Chops:
Blade chops are cut from the shoulder, and because of their complex structure of muscle,
tendons and fat, are prime candidates for the slow 'n low cooking afforded by barbecue.
Sirloin chops also qualify. Other chops include rib chops (cut from the prime rib) and Loin
chops (equivalent to the T-bone in beef).
2.2. Beef:
Photo: Not Bevo by Calsidyrose: Flickr Creative Commons

Longhorn cattle were brought to the Americas on Columbus' second voyage of exploration in
1493, and Vera Cruz introduced them into Mexico in 1521. Rather like Hernando de Soto's
pigs, this small seed stock of cattle grew into herds numbering hundreds of thousands, and
cattle ranches were common in Mexico, and its vassal state Texas, by the early 1800's.
153
Beef, smoked in underground pits, was a staple food of the ranchers and their "vaqueros" or
cowhands, with the whole smoked head of the animal representing a particular treat.
When the Mexicans left Texas in 1836, they left behind them not only vast herds of cattle, but
the smoke-pit methods of cooking them, both of which were claimed by Texan farmers, and
their "cowboys", who carried on the tradition. In the process they discovered how overnight
smoking made even the toughest of cuts, epitomised by brisket, tender and succulent.
Pork met beef in the West largely as a result of the early settlers carrying young live piglets
under their covered wagons as they moved from the East Coast across America and into the
Wild West.
There are a bewildering array of beef cuts, and often very little consistency in the names they
are given. While the cuts emanating from the slaughterhouse or abattoir (the "primal" cuts) are
generally large, and show little variation in nomenclature, the smaller cuts sold by butchers
and in supermarket meat counters are legion. To help you get an understanding of where the
major or primal cuts of beef come from, here's another simplified chart:
LEGEND: 1 = Chuck; 2 = Brisket; 3 = Shank; 4 = Rib; 5 = Plate; 6 = Short Loin; 7 =

Flank; 8 = Sirloin; 9 = Tenderloin; 10 = Top Sirloin; 11 = Bottom Sirloin; 12 = Round;
13 = Shank
- Brisket:
Brisket, while it has no bones, has two seriously important muscle groups, which make it
almost impossible to eat unless it's cooked long and slow. (It's a moot point whether the cut is
an all-time favourite for beef barbecuing because it is too tough for grilling, or because the fact
that it IS tough enables it to stand up to the long, low and slow cooking which is what makes
barbecue what it is).
Whatever! To drive out the moisture, and attain that deep, rich smoky flavour which
characterises the best barbecued brisket it needs to be smoked for at least three to four and a
half hours. You'll tell it's done not only by the pronounced smokiness of the flavour but also by
154
the fact that the joint has significantly shrunk in size.
We've never heard of "pulling brisket", so unlike pork you'll need to use a knife to slice it
thinly, and cut across the grain. Before doing so you should pare away the fat lying along the
top of the brisket.
A word about barbecuing and fat: One of the most important reasons for having a drip pan is
because it allows you to leave the fat on the meat during the smoking process. Particularly in
the case of brisket and prime rib roast, where the fat layers the top side of the meat, fat fulfils a
natural moistening and basting function. What doesn't melt away naturally during the long
smoking process can be sliced off once the meat is ready to be served.
And don't be too hasty about throwing away the fat trimmed from the top of the brisket! Freeze
it in plastic until the next time you smoke a brisket, and smoke it a second time to provide the
crackly, crusty treat known as Burnt Ends – a specialty of Kansas City, but widely appreciated
wherever people meet around a barbecue.
- Fajitas:
It's traditional, in many branches of live husbandry, to include part of any slaughtered livestock
animal as a component of employee "rations", or even in part-payment for their labour. And
it's also customary to keep the A-grade cuts for sale, and use the less desirable pieces for
home or employee consumption!
One of the tougher cuts given to early Mexican vaqueros was the plate, skirt or belly steak,
termed the faja, and in order to make it edible it was essentially barbecued – low and slow!
The word faja in Spanish means a belt or a girdle, and the derivative fajita was the word
given by Texas Mexicans to this cut of beef, while the true Mexican term is arracheras.
Today, "fajita" is loosely applied to a range of meats, wrapped in tortillas, but don't be
fooled! Real fajitas need real beef skirt!
- Tenderloin (or Fillet), Sirloin and Flank Steaks:
Being naturally tender cuts of beef, these do not need long smoking to break down and soften
connective tissues, and are best served rare to medium.
Before smoking, sear the meat all round in a sizzling hot cast-iron frying pan or skillet, in a
small quantity of oil. Then smoke for about an hour to an hour and a half, depending on taste.
The meat needs careful watching during the smoking process to ensure that it is not overcooked
All of these cuts can be marinated advantageously for several hours before being smoked.
- Back Ribs and Short Ribs:
Slaughter cattle are big animals, with a rib cavity approximating the size of a wine barrel.
And the ribs stretch all the way from the spine to the breastbone – nearly a metre (three feet) in
155
places. Generally, the most tender rib cuts (and the most expensive!) lie along the backbone –
ribeye steaks, which lie on top of the ribs, just behind the shoulder, and filet mignon under the
ribs opposite the ribeye. In combination, the ribeye and the filet mignon together comprise a
porterhouse steak. Moving backwards, the porterhouse becomes a T-bone.
"Back ribs" as sold for barbecue are often the by-product of boneless porterhouse and T-bone
steaks, where the flesh on top and underneath the rib has been removed leaving only a strip of
flesh between the bones.
Generally, as you move away from the spine towards the belly, the meat on the ribs becomes
tougher and less expensive, starting with the brisket closest to the shoulder, then the short plate
(from where the name "short ribs" is derived), and then the flank steak.
Short ribs (Thin Ribs in the UK) are not routinely de-boned, so they have a good 25 to 50mm
of meat on them, and are a top favourite for barbecuing.
Because they comprise a relatively tough cut of meat, they require at least four to six hours in
the smoker, and benefit from mopping or basting.
- Chuck:
Chuck has some of the most flavoursome meat on the animal, and is a favourite for ground beef
used in hamburgers, as well as a variety of roasts, steaks and ribs. Forming the shoulder of the
animal, it does a lot of work and as you'd expect is a mass of muscle, bands of fat and
connecting tissue in a good solid slab of real meat.
Because a chuck roast is a good chunky log of meat, and because you want the insides to be
rare to medium rare, you'll need a meat probe to check – regularly! – on the internal
temperature of the meat, and a pit thermometer to keep the interior of the smoker at no more
than around 110 C (220 F)
- Smoked Hamburgers and Meat Loaf:
Photo: Homemade hamburgers by Simon (BBQ Grill Maestro): Flickr Creative Commons
156
Q: Take the best beef hamburger you've ever tasted and up the taste by 100%, and what do you
have?
A: A SMOKED beef hamburger!
Chuck is traditionally used for the ground beef that goes into hamburgers, because of its
pronounced flavour. Smoke the chuck roast before it is ground, then grind or mince it and use
the meat for your hamburger, and you have food the gods would squabble over.
You can approach meat loaves in the same way. Alternatively, you can place a conventional
meat loaf – uncovered, in its loaf tin! – in the smoker. Mop or baste regularly to keep moist.
Photo: Sheep by Marilyn Peddle (marilynjane): Flickr Creative Commons

While true mutton, defined as the meat of a mature sheep, is widely available in sheep-growing
countries like Australia and the southern part of Africa, it's often difficult to buy in Northern
Europe and in many parts of the US. A reasonable substitute is a "weaner" lamb of around a
year old.
To assist you in understanding where the most important cuts of mutton, lamb or goat come
157
from, the following chart may prove helpful:
LEGEND: 1 = Shank; 2 = Breast; 3 = Neck; 4 = Shoulder; 5 = Rib; 6 = Loin; 7 =

Flank; 8 = Sirloin; 9 = Leg; 10 = Shank
- Shoulder:
Because a sheep is a very much smaller animal than a pig, a whole shoulder is easily
manageable in the smoker. The shoulder should be coated with a rub of your choice, wrapped
in plastic and refrigerated overnight. When the smoker is at a temperature of around 100 C
(210 F), the shoulder should be placed in the smoker, and smoked for between three to four
hours, depending on its size, basting with a mop made from any of the left-over rub, stock and
other spices.
The fatty surface of the meat should be uppermost in the smoker, as the fat will provide a
natural basting agent as it comes off the meat during the cooking process.
- Middle Ribs of Lamb:
The texture and appearance of the ribs should be similar in appearance and texture to well-
prepared pork spare ribs – pull-apart easy, and with a crunchy, spicy, glazed coating.
As with pork, they should be coated with a rub the evening before being smoked, wrapped in
plastic and left overnight in the refrigerator.
While the smoker is coming up to heat (around 100 C or 210 F), the ribs should be allowed to
reach room temperature, and then smoked for around four hours. To prevent them from drying
out too much, the ribs can be mopped after about an hour and a half.
- Leg of Lamb:
Leg of lamb in particular is a joint where the natural flavour of the meat is easily swamped by
too heavy a smoke. Being naturally tender, it also doesn't need a long period of cooking, and
is typically served rare to medium. And it's better served slightly moist.
For all of these reasons, it's ideally suited to a vertical or water smoker, with the temperature
158
set as high as 115 C or 240 F, and the normal cooking time reduced to around two to two and a
half hours. In a pit or vault smoker, it's advisable to wrap the lamb in moist mutton cloth or tin
foil after it has been in the smoker for an hour or so, to prevent it from drying out.
The lamb is prepared in the usual way by rubbing it with a mildly seasoned rub, wrapping it in
plastic cling film, and leaving it in the refrigerator overnight. Before going into the smoker it
should be allowed to come up to room temperature, and then seared all over (if you don't get
an immediate sizzle the skillet or frying pan is just not hot enough!).
- Goat:
Throughout the Middle East, in large chunks of North and Central Africa, and across much of
the Caribbean, goat is significantly more highly esteemed than mutton.
The animal, because it is an opportunistic forager and browser, is ideally suited to the harsh,
semi-desert environment of many of these countries. Its lifestyle makes it a tough, hardy
character, and as a result it is typically simmered very slowly in stews, casseroles and tagines
to tenderise it and soften the connective tissues.
This rangy toughness makes it an ideal candidate for slow-smoked barbecuing.
2.4. Veal:
Veal, the meat taken from a young beef weaner, probably ranks with pork as one of the most-
frequently served meats across much of Northern Europe.
Because it comes from a young animal, the meat is naturally tender. It also has much less
flavour than matured beef, and you have to be careful when smoking it not to overwhelm the
gentle nuances of the meat.
Veal roasts should be rubbed or marinated and left covered in cling-wrap in the refrigerator
overnight before smoking.
Because the meat is intrinsically tender, it does not need long smoking times, and it requires
regular mopping to avoid drying it out.
159
2.5. Venison:
Photo: Deer Feeding by JohnWDavisJr: Flickr Creative Commons

Contrary to what you might expect, venison is often more delicately flavoured than many
domesticated animals. Wild pig, for example, is generally a lean meat and very different from
commercially-bred pork. It's a lot less fatty, and in consequence tends to dry out if it is not
regularly moistened while it is cooking.
To assist you in recognising the various cuts of venison, the following chart may be helpful:
LEGEND: 1 = Shank; 2 = Bottom of Outer Round; 3 = Top of Inside Round; 4 = Rump; 5

= Sirloin; 6 = Tenderloin; 7 = Loin End; 8 = Flank; 9 = Saddle (aka Rack End); 10 =
160
Ribs; 11 = Brisket; 12 = Shank; 13 = Foreleg; 14 = Shoulder; 15 = Neck.
Here's a "platform" recipe for a shoulder roast you can use as a launch pad for creations of
your own:
To offset its dryness, it helps to inject the meat and then marinate it the night before smoking,
and to go rather more heavy on the oil in the injection fluid and marinade than you would do
for domesticated pork or beef.
Refrigerate the meat, in the marinade in a sealed plastic bag, overnight, and bring to room
temperature before placing in the smoker at about 100 C (or 210 F) for three hours. Mop or
baste regularly at 30 minute intervals. Traditionally, the mop can contain a strong red wine
base.
Then place the venison into a smoke-proof dish, with the remains of the mop and a selection of
vegetables like onions, tomatoes, and butternut. Cover the dish with a lid or aluminium foil,
and cook for another one to two hours. The meat should be pull-apart tender, with the
consistency of a "seven-hour" Greek lamb.
Photos (l to r): Chicken by SMcGarnigle; Turkey in snow by Justin Russell (nightthree); and
de-frosting or de-refrigerating, smoking times, mopping and basting,
- Special Recommendations:
Additionally, the following special recommendations for smoking birds, in particular, should
161
be considered:
1. generally, the skin should be left on until the smoking process is completed, and then
removed prior to carving or serving. Doing this preserves the natural moisture in the bird and
the subcutaneous fat acts as a natural basting agent;
2. as a further safeguard against drying out, most birds benefit from being marinated, or
injected with an injection fluid. Or both! In the case of a marinade, the bird should be placed,
with the liquid, in a plastic bag and refrigerated overnight. If an injection fluid is used, the
fluid should be injected deep into a number of points on the breast, thighs, and drums, with a
cooking or injection syringe. The needle of the syringe can be wiggled around as the fluid is
injected (taking care to do this gently, so the point doesn't snap off!), and the injection fluid can
contain a good quantity of oil, without making the bird greasy. (The oil tends to spread and
melt off as the bird heats up);
3. unlike other birds, duck stubbornly retains most of its fat in the smoking process, so oil can
be omitted from marinades, and the duck should be pre-steamed before it goes into the smoker,
to get rid of the excess fat;
4. whatever is left over of the marinade, or the injection fluid, can generally be incorporated
into a mop, or baste, as long as the liquid is boiled or heated to prevent bacterial transfer and
food spoilage;
5. traditionally, different birds are served with different accompaniments. Turkey, for
example, is frequently accompanied by cranberry; and duck by orange, or plum. Chicken is
pretty much a blank tablet, and can benefit from a number of different spice mixes, but lemon
features in a lot of recipes (as dried zest, lemon pepper and Moroccan, salt-dried lemon).
Infusing these bird-specific accompaniments into injection liquids or marinades, not only
preserves a traditional flavour, but adds individuality to your offering;
6. because birds generally benefit from being seasoned, not only inside and out, but also under
the skin, a paste is often easier to apply than a rub, making it easier to avoid tearing the skin
when applying it;
7. some birds, like pigeons, quail and guinea-fowl, have naturally strong, and distinctive
flavours which dictate a milder rub, paste, marinade or mop than you would use on blander
birds like battery-reared chickens and Cornish game hens, for example;
8. whenever birds are smoked whole (typically, when they're small) they provide a
wonderful, natural seasoning reservoir, in the form of their body cavities. In lieu of rubbing
the inside of the bird, it can usefully be stuffed – with a prepared stuffing, or with a whole fruit
or vegetable, like a lemon, a large, peeled plum, an orange, a peeled apple, an onion or a large
black mushroom;
9. birds are generally smoked and table-ready when their internal temperature reaches about
75 C (180 F), but a rough-and-ready visual indicator is when their skins turn brown (mid-
162
brown in the case of white-fleshed birds like chickens, and dark mahogany brown in the case
of darker-fleshed birds like duck and guinea-fowl) and when their leg joints move freely;
10. sauces, generally, go well with birds, and the addition of a dash of cognac, bourbon,
tequila, vermouth or wine at the beginning of the sauce preparation provides a real taste
wakener;
11. many birds can be spatch-cocked, or butterflied which presents a greater surface area to
both the rubs or pastes being used, and also the smoke, as well as creating a more uniform
depth to the flesh being cooked. To prepare, slice through the breast bone, and push down
hard on the back of the bird to flatten it;
12. All birds should be allowed to sit for 10 to 15 minutes after smoking, before carving and
serving;
- Chicken:
Photo: Chicken by SMcGarnigle: Flickr Creative Commons

The conversion process from carbohydrates to proteins is generally more efficient with
chickens than it is with any other meat source, with the exception of fish. It's little surprise,
therefore, that chicken, worldwide, represents a ubiquitous source of proteins for human
consumption, featuring in roasts, casseroles, pies, on the grill – and barbecued.
One of the cleverest, and most effective, accessories for barbecuing chicken is a simple can of
163
beer. (Not least because of its attraction for the barbecuer!).
The chicken is prepared in the usual way by coating it with a suitable rub or paste, inside and
out, and then injecting it at a number of points with a cooking syringe containing an injection
liquid. The rub and the injection liquid should be massaged into the flesh and under the skin of
the bird before refrigerating it overnight in a sealed plastic bag or cling wrap.
Photo Weston
While the bird is coming up to room temperature prior to smoking, the smoker can be fired up
to operating temperature.
Photo NORPRO
Drink half the beer in the can (if you're thirsty, drink half the beer in two or more cans, and
smoke an equivalent number of chickens!). Being careful not to spill the half-beer left in each
can, remove the lids with a can opener. Add to the beer a mix of herbs and spices, including
the remains of the rub and injection fluid, place the beer cans on the grid in the smoker (or on
an oven tray or special purpose beer can roaster on the grid), stand the chickens upright, and
push the birds down so their body cavities hug the cans, while their legs stretch out forwards,
like a pensioner's sitting on a park bench.
Smoke the birds for 3 to 4 hours. In a pit or large vault smoker you'll need to baste or mop
every half hour or so; less if you're using a vertical or water smoker.
NOTE: Beer-can smoking can also be used with rabbit or hare, "seating" them over the can
in the same way.
164
Photo: rabbit by Sean Winters (theseanster93): Flickr Creative Commons
Because they should be skinned before smoking, it's advisable to wrap them in muslin or
cheesecloth, pre-soaked in a slightly oily or butter-laced marinade, and then to mop them every
half hour or so during smoking if you're using a pit or large vault smoker.
- Turkey:
Photo: Smoked Turkey by Daryn Nakhuda (ddaarryynn): Flickr Creative Commons

Turkey breasts can easily become dry in the smoker, and turkey, in particular, benefits from
marinating and injecting with injection liquids, and stuffing both from the rear and the front of
the bird. Additionally, though, it helps to cut a length of about 1 metre (around 3 feet) of
cheesecloth, fold it into a pad about 10cms (four inches) square and saturate the pad in a small
bowl of melted butter.
When the butter has cooled, open the pad and apply it like a folded burn dressing on top the
turkey breast, before putting the turkey into the smoker, breast up.
The cheesecloth can be mopped at regular intervals, depending on the style of smoker.
- Duck:
165
Photo: One White Duck by Sheila McClune (arwensouth): Flickr Creative Commons
Fat sticks to duck like a burr to a blanket – even through four to five hours of smoking! So, to
avoid it being too greasy you'll need to steam it, for about thirty minutes, in a bamboo or a
conventional metal steamer. Refrigerate the duck in a paste, rub or marinade, for a minimum
of a couple of hours and preferably overnight, and then bring it up to room temperature and
steam it before placing it in the smoker for four to five hours.
Photo: California Quail by Sid Mosdell (SidPix): Flickr Creative Commons

Quail were a delicacy on the tables of noblemen in the middle ages, and they're every bit as
good today. Like Cornish hens, they're small birds and are often served, two to a person, as an
entree rather than a main course. Cornish hens are less naturally flavoursome than quail, and
require a more assertive seasoning. Both benefit from marinating, and regular basting, but
because of their relatively small size require only two hours, or a little longer, in the smoker.
166
Photos (l to r): Pheasant by Stewart Black; and Greater Sage-Grouse by USFWS Pacific
Southwest (Pacific Southwest Region): Flickr Creative Commons
These game birds, like game animals, are frequently marinated in a good red wine, but in other
respects they can be cooked like chicken (see above).
4. FISH.

Fish was almost certainly among the foods first cold-smoked and air-dried by our progenitors,
basically as a means of preserving it. And even today, the preponderance of smoked fish
found in delicatessens, gourmet food outlets, chains and supermarkets is cold-smoked or
conventionally hot-smoked, rather than barbecued. That said, fish prepared by barbecuing is
167
every bit as delicious as meat and fowl, and well worth experimenting with.
Additionally, the following special recommendations for smoking fish, in particular, should be
considered:
1...generally, the skin should be left on fish until the smoking process is completed, and then
removed prior to serving. Doing this preserves the natural moisture in the fish and the
subcutaneous fat acts as a natural basting agent;
2. fish should be placed on the rack or smoking utensil skin down, and flesh up;
3. where the skin has been removed already, consider "creating" a "skin" out of aluminium foil
or bake-proof paper;
4. the flesh of fish like eels and catfish has a relatively close cell structure, which makes it
easy to handle at the end of the smoking process. For other fish with a flaky flesh, you'll need
a wide bladed spatula or fish lifter to move the fish from the rack or grid onto a suitable
serving platter when the smoking process has been completed;
5. while fish like eels and catfish have natural oils in their flesh, which means that they can be
smoked without any additional protection against drying out, other fish are naturally drier and
benefit from being marinated, and also from being covered in foil to assist moisture retention
for at least some of the time they are being smoked;
6. to approximate the attractive "glazed" appearance of commercially cold-cured fish like
haddock and kippers, marinades should be briny in character, and include a good quantity of
brown sugar. After refrigerating the fish in the marinade overnight, drain it and then replace
the fish in the refrigerator, exposed and uncovered, for 2 to 3 hours to allow the salty-sugary
glaze to form, before smoking ;
7. because fish tend to cook quickly, they are often smoked at a lower temperature than meat
and birds, typically at about 80 C to 90 C (180 F to 200 F), so as to allow the smoke flavour
sufficient time to be absorbed. Particular care has to be taken not to let the temperature drop to
below 70 C, however (around 160 F) at which point there is a danger of bacterial growth and
spoilage;
8. smoked fish, particularly hot-smoked fish, make really successful patés, terrines, spreads
and dips;
9. where whole fish are smoked their sides should be scored so that any rub or marinade can
penetrate the flesh, and also to aid complete smoke absorption:
168
10. thicker chunks or fillets of fish, such as marlin, tuna, dorado and swordfish can be seared
in a really hot griddle before smoking (if it doesn't sssizzzzle, it just isn't hot enough!)
Photos (l to r): mussels petals by Natalie (natamagat); Clams by japharl; and Fresh Shrimp by
Tony Alter (Tobyotter): Flickr Creative Commons
Additionally, the following special recommendations for smoking crustaceans, shellfish and
other seafoods, in particular, should be considered:
1. Unless you happen to live in a seaside resort, or near a major fishing harbour, or collect
your own bait as a fisherman, you'll often find it tricky to get fresh-out-of-the-sea shrimps,
prawns, langoustines, octopus, and many estuarine shellfish. Mostly, they'll be frozen, and in
the process will have been surrounded by a fair amount of ice. The first precaution to take is
not to try to force the pace in thawing them – too quick, and you risk the flesh becoming soft
and pulpy;
2. When de-frosting, lay the crustaceans or shellfish on several layers of absorbent paper
towel, which will soak up the moisture as it thaws, and prevent the seafood lying in a pool of
water;
3. Alternatively, lay them on a rack above a collection vessel, and use the briny fluid as the
base for a marinade;
169
4. Most of the seafoods discussed in this section are translucent when raw and opaque when
cooked. The transition from one state to the other (which all-too-often corresponds to a
transition from an appealing firmness to an unattractive pulpiness!) comes very quickly, and
they need to be watched carefully during the smoking process to prevent this from happening;
5. With crustaceans, another indication of doneness is when they turn from a
brown/grey/natural colour to pink;
6. Because they need relatively short smoking times (around 25 minutes), because they are
small and dry out easily, and because they need a very light smoking to avoid their delicate
flavours being overwhelmed with smokiness, they are ideally suited to stove-top and small
vertical/water smokers, which provide a steaming function that keeps their contents moist;
7. Shellfish like oysters, scallops, razor clams, and mussels, after they have thawed and been
drained, can be re-arranged on half-shells, which should be cleaned and put aside for just this
purpose. In a stove-top smoker the shellfish should remain relatively moist owing to the
combined smoke-and-steam characteristics of these devices; in a pit smoker, you'll need to
either cover the shells after an initial smoke period, with foil, or mop regularly, or both.
8. Where they are not eaten warm, oysters, mussels and clams in particular can be submerged
in oil after smoking in suitable glass containers. They need to be refrigerated, if they're not
going to be eaten immediately, and will keep this way for several days quite happily;
Photo: Nootka Sound Oysters by Chefs-Resources by David (theages): Flickr Creative

Commons
9. While oysters can be shucked in the usual way with an oyster knife, mussels and clams are
easier to open if you place them in a large steamer with about a centimetre (half an inch) of
water in the bottom and steam them until the shells open. Discard any which don't open!, and
keep the brine which is steamed out for marinades or mops. The opened shellfish can then be
placed in the smoker, in the usual way. (Pre-steaming like this has the added benefit of firming
up the flesh, which in the case of black mussels particularly can be very gooey and difficult to
handle in the raw state). As an alternative to smoking the shellfish in their half-shells, they can
be placed, individually or in small bunches, into muffin pans along with a dab of paste or
sauce;
10. Commercially grown shellfish, like mussels, are cultivated on long ropes suspended from
floats into open water, and are free of impurities when harvested. In their natural state they are
170
often in a sandy or gritty environment, and being filter feeders a lot of this sand and grit is
taken in by them. To get rid of it, soak the shellfish in a pail of clean water, into which has
been stirred about a quarter cup of maize meal or oat bran. Change the water and bran/meal
mix several times over a period of four or five hours to assist in purging the shellfish of grit
and sand particles. Discard any shells that don't open when steamed;
11. When you smoke crustaceans and shellfish in a pit smoker, place them as far from the fire
as possible.
Photos (l to r): aubergine by gomagoti; Bulb of Garlic by jE norton (lowjumpingfrog); and

Bananas (edited) by 24oranges.nl): Flickr Creative Commons
Additionally, the following special recommendations for smoking Nuts, Vegetables and
Fruit, in particular, should be considered:
1. Vegetables and fruit (nuts to a lesser extent) generally benefit from a lighter, rather than a
heavier smoking to avoid their natural taste and flavour being overwhelmed with the flavour of
the smoke;
2. The exception to this rule is when vegetables are smoked before being made into a dip or
appetiser (middle Eastern mezze) or tapas. Examples include scordalia, a Greek smoked
potato and garlic mash, and smoked aubergine pâté or melitzansalata;
3. To get dry rubs to stick, and also to prevent vegetables drying out, they should be coated
171
with oil before being rubbed and smoked;
4. It may not be pukka, but we've found that with "hard" vegetables like potatoes and carrots,
for example, it helps to parboil them, or pre-cook them in a microwave, before putting them
into the smoker, in order to avoid over-long smoking times;
5. Smoking onions and potatoes, in particular, in their skins for the first half of their time in
the smoker, and then skinning them and placing them back in the smoke for the last half, also
helps to contain moisture;
6. So, too, does leaving the seed kernels in halved butternut, pumpkin and gem squash while
in the smoker (the seeds can be removed immediately before serving);
7 . Garlic cloves can be smoked in their skins until soft, then squeezed out and made into a
mash, which forms a delicious addition to soups, stews, sauces, pastes, mops and marinades;
8. Skinned vegetables and fruit may be smoked for the first half of their cooking time, then
wrapped in foil to effectively steam them for the remainder of the time it takes to soften them;
9. While most vegetables and fruit need to be kept moist during smoking, some, like broccoli,
can benefit from drying out – which gives their florettes a crispy, crunchy texture. Before
putting them into the smoker simply swish them around in a slightly oily marinade, shake off
the excess, and dredge them in a dry rub. Onion rings and potato skins can also benefit from
this treatment;
10. To allow the smoke to permeate the vegetables or fruits being processed, you may need to
score, crosscut, or pierce them before placing them in the smoker;
11. Fruits are notionally unusual candidates for smoking, but a number of both deciduous and
tropical fruits are delicious smoked, including papaya, bananas, mango, pineapples,
peaches, pears, and apples.
Photos (l to r): Bananas (edited) by 24oranges.nl; Mangoes! By Joy (joyosity); and papaya by
Janine (nemuneko.jc): Flickr Creative Commons
12. Fruits without pips, like bananas, can be smoked whole, but others are better halved or
sliced, and cored or de-pipped first;
13. Generally, it's advisable to smoke the fruit in their skins – if whole, they should be scored,
pierced of cross-cut to aid absorption of the smoke;
172
14. Rubs for fruits need little or no salt, and rather more sugar, and spices like nutmeg and
cinnamon should be used rather than spices like sage, which are better suited to meats and
fish;
15. "Courtesy snack" smoked nuts (the ones you get in hotel lobbies, bars, convention centres
and on commercial airlines) are, generally, not true smokehouse products, but rather rely on a
smoke coating, or a smoke-flavoured seasoning for their flavour. To make genuine smoked
nuts, they need first to be marinated for about an hour, then drained, and then placed in a single
layer (so the smoke can circulate between them) on an oven tray or piece of heavy duty foil,
and smoked until they are brown and crisp.
Photo: Mixed Nuts #shoot1230 by Ishikawa Ken (chidorian): Flickr Creative Commons
16. Smoked, salted nuts are slightly hygroscopic (they absorb moisture from the atmosphere)
so they need to be eaten as soon as possible after smoking (never a problem in our house!), or
stored in airtight containers;
17. Almost all nuts are good candidates for smoking, and a short list of favourites would
include cashews, pecans, walnuts, macadamias, and hazel nuts – not to forget the humble
peanut!
173
Photo: Tapas by Jessica Spengler (WordRidden): Flickr Creative Commons
- Special Recommendations and Suggestions:
Additionally, the following special recommendations for smoking Snacks and Appetisers, in
particular, could be considered:
1. store-bought snacks, like crisps, popcorn, crackers, nuts, olives and the like can be
popped into a stove-top smoker for added flavour and novelty;
2. mussels, clams, and oysters, smoked in the shell or in a muffin pan, make delicious snacks,
served on cracker bread or biscuits;
3. smoke a batch of button or porcino mushrooms before frying them in a beer batter and then
serve them hot with a tangy mayonnaise sauce;
4. smoke smaller fish and, being careful to extract all the bones, crumble and mix 8 parts
smoked flesh into 1 part each of real mayonnaise and soured cream; add ½ part of thinly
chopped spring (salad) onions or chopped chives, 1 part squeezed lemon juice, and Tabasco
and salt and pepper to taste for a dip that will have your guests clamouring for more ... and
more! TIP: Don't under-salt! Dips served on biscuits or crackers appear to lose some of
their saltiness, particularly when water biscuits or cream crackers are used. (This doesn't
apply, of course, if the biscuits themselves are particularly salty!
174
Photos (l to r): cheese platter by Andrea Goh; and Roasted Carrot Soup by Joy (joyosity):
Additionally, the following special recommendations for smoking Dairy, Soups and Stocks,
Leftovers and Etceteras, in particular, should be considered:
1. When we talk about dairy, we're essentially talking about cheese! The popularity of
smoked cheeses can be attested to by the number of offerings available commercially, from up-
market delis and also, increasingly, from the cheese counters of large supermarkets and
convenience stores;
2. Most cheeses can be smoked. It's difficult, if not impossible, to reconstitute melted cheese,
so if you're going to smoke cheese in the barbecue, unless it's haloumi, by definition it's going
to be served melted;
3. To smoke cheese without melting it requires cold-smoking or curing;
4. As we've mentioned before, the primary purpose of cold-smoking is to dry out meat or fish,
in particular, through the combined, de-moisturising action of smoke and salt. Most processed
hard cheeses, though, present a slightly different case, in that considerable salt is used in their
primary processing to preserve as well as season them, and ideally the smoking process
175
should not significantly dry them out;
5. This means that the smoke used in cold-smoking cheese should be really cool, and to keep
the cheese relatively moist it is useful to wrap it in a couple of folds of moistened cheesecloth,
and then re-wet the cloth with cool water at regular intervals during the smoking process;
6. Butter is the other dairy product that takes well to smoking. It should be smoked in a wide,
open, smoke-proof dish so that a large surface area of butter is exposed to the smoke, and it
can be used hot or allowed to cool and set in a plastic tub, into its original shape;
7. Stocks are conventionally made by using a base of vegetables or herbs with meat, chicken,
fish – (whatever! – depending on the primary stock flavour desired) in combination with water
or other liquids. Typically, leftovers or discards (for example, the shells and heads of
crustaceans) are used as the distinguishing flavourings. Using the leftovers from barbecued or
cold-smoked foods gives gourmet status to stocks made from them. TIP: Keep the shells from
shucked prawns, lobsters and crawfish and smoke them when you next smoke a rack of ribs,
brisket ... whatever! Used in a stock they add a smoky nuance that's hard to beat;
8. Alternatively, or additionally, the brines or mops used on smoked foods may form the base
of a good stock. Ensure, though, that these mops and bastes are vigorously boiled to ensure
that there is no transference of harmful bacteria;
9 . Soups made from smoked stocks have a particular piquancy and appeal. A stock, for
example, made from the leftovers of smoked pork, forms a delicious base for a traditional pea
and ham soup, as does the stock from the shells of smoked fish or crustaceans in a
Mediterranean fish soup or stew;
10. Smoked leftovers can be used in a variety of different dishes, which for want of a better
collective noun we've termed etceteras. They include casseroles, gumbo, mousses, soufflés,
meat loaves, pastas, patés and terrines, as well as the range of snacks, relishes, dips and
appetisers mentioned above. They're limited only by your imagination, and all of them are so
good that you will probably not want to rely on leftovers, but build up, as many do, a store of
"created leftovers" for the purpose;
11. Under etceteras mention should also be made of prepared commercial foods like link
sausages, and a range of commercially smoked food where additional smokiness is desired.
For example, certain cooked bacons and hams are relatively mild and can benefit from time in
the smoker for an additional smoky zestiness;
12. While more a European than an American taste, another range of smoked leftovers which
are mouth-wateringly delicious if you can shut off your mind to them, are the "other bits", like
brains, sweetbreads, tripe, heart, liver and trotters (maybe you're just going to have to take
our word for it??);
TIP: Smoked salt is delicious when used in substitution for normal coarse salt in a variety of
176
dishes. It is best prepared in a dry smoke environment, to avoid picking up moisture, so if you
use a vertical or water smoker, remove the water pan and do not smoke any other foods at the
same time as the salt.
Salt can, however, be smoked along with other foods on a flat tray in a cold smoker, or in a pit
as long as the tray containing the salt is placed some way distant from the food, clear of any
drips, and on the fire side of the other food in the pit so the smoke is still dry as it passes over
the tray. The salt should be evenly spread on the tray in a thin layer. Taste from time to time
to ensure that the salt flavour is not too assertive.
9. MAINTENANCE, CLEANING, HYGIENE AND PERSONAL PROTECTION.
Photo: Chemical gauntlet by Jono Winn (Jono Rotten): Flickr Creative Commons
We're constantly amazed at the number of people who pay meticulous attention to practically
every aspect of the preparation and subsequent smoking of their food, but who signally neglect
the most elementary standards of maintenance and hygienic attention to their equipment and
cooking methods.
Grids, trays, racks, hooks and food containers used in the smoker should all be cleaned after
use, preferably while hot as an aid to removing grease and fats. A failure to do so not only
runs the risk of bacterial infection, but also of compromising the flavour of the next batch of
food by imparting a rancid or bitter taste (rather like oil in which one piece of fish too many
has been deep-fried!)
While true of all utensils used in the smoker, regular maintenance and hygiene is particularly
applicable to drip-trays. Because they are directly underneath the food (so as to prevent
flaring), grease and paste or mop drippings, as they dry out, will smoulder and leave a bitter,
177
sooty flavour on the food.
It's equally important to clean out the inside of the smoker, and the firebox, for the same
reasons.
Wiping a thin film of cooking oil on the internal surfaces of containers used in the smoker,
before food is placed in them, also helps later when it's time to clean them.
While wire brushes can generally be used on grids and racks, something gentler, like a sponge
scourer, is called for in cleaning the insides of the smoker. The firebox should be emptied of
ash.
The other important aspect of hygiene relates to the preparation and smoking of the food itself.
To avoid cross-contamination of foods, make a point of always washing your hands thoroughly
with soap and hot water whenever you move from one food type, or one preparation or
cooking activity, to another.
Never put cooked foods back into a dish, or onto a cutting board, on which raw foods were
previously packed, and which have not subsequently been washed. Equally, don't use ladles,
knives, spoons and forks which have been used on raw food for cooked food, until they have
been washed.
Brushes and mops used for one seasoning application should be washed in hot water before
they are used on another.
It's advisable to wear thin rubber gloves, of the type typically used in food preparation,
whenever you're handling chillies – particularly the hotter habaneras. If you don't wear
gloves, take care to wash your hands thoroughly, and refrain from touching your eyes, lips,
nostrils or other sensitive areas of your body. (You'll only make that mistake once!)
178
179
1. DESCRIPTION
As we have seen, above, dry salting is one of a number of methods of preparing foods for
smoking (whether cold-smoked, hot-smoked or barbecued).
But there is another category of cured foods (which we consider now) which differs from the
smoked products discussed earlier in that the end product, be it meat, fish or fowl, is neither
cooked, nor smoked, but simply salted and seasoned, and then exposed to the air and dried.
Gourmet Foods...
Among this latter category are some of the most sought-after (and expensive!) of gourmet
delicacies – like Italian, Spanish and French cured hams (Prosciutto di Parma, Jamon Serrano,
Jambon de Bayonne, etc.), gourmet bacons (pancetta and guanciale), and salamis. Distinctive
differences in the taste of these various pork products is partly a result of what the pigs are
eating, and partly a result of the (dry) curing method which is used.

Part of the reason they are so highly esteemed and sought after is the length of time required to
cure them. Because they are neither smoked nor cooked, particularly in the case of pork
products, a long curing time is required to render them safe to eat.
Experts also aver that the longer the cure time, the better and more distinctive the flavour. In
consequence, some Spanish (Iberico) hams are cured for up to five years, and more, and most
of the other dry cured hams mentioned here are left to mature for anything from 12 to 18 months
at a minimum ... with a price tag to match!
... and Everyday Favourites.
In less complicated vein, there are two "pioneer" dry-cured foods which enjoy widespread
popularity today, at a reasonable price – jerky and biltong. ("Pioneer" foods because in both
cases – jerky in the US and Canada, and biltong in South Africa – the curing methods used
arose from the need to preserve food by the early colonists without the benefits of
refrigeration).
180
Jerky probably owed its development to the frontiersmen's association with indigenous
Americans, who used a trail food called pemmican, which according to Wikipedia comes from
the Cree word pimikhan, which in turn was derived from the word pimi, meaning "fat", or
"grease". The difference between pemmican and jerky is essentially that the former is
powdered or very finely diced dried meat, often mixed with honey, fruits or berries, and using
fat as a binding agent in the ratio of one part meat to one part fat, while jerky consists of whole
strips of dried, seasoned flesh or fish largely devoid of fat. Pemmican was known to keep for
months, and even years without spoiling.
Biltong, rated by many (even Americans!) as superior in taste to jerky, is notionally similar in
that both foods are salted, seasoned and then dried. The chief difference between them is that
whereas jerky is exposed to heat as part of a combined cooking and curing process, biltong is
conventionally air-dried in a draft of cool air, without any heat whatsoever being used.
Jerky is also somewhat sweeter, and biltong is often substantially thicker than jerky. And
whereas jerky is generally made from lean meat, without fat, biltong often contains as much as
40%, or even 50% fat, depending on taste.
2 METHODS OF CURING
There are three basic methods of curing foods (as distinct from smoking them) – dry curing,
wet curing and a combination of the two. As one might expect, each has advantages and
disadvantages. All of them involve the application of salt and other seasonings for
preservation and flavouring. Small quantities of nitrates or nitrites, which we discuss below,
are frequently used in the salt and seasoning mix for the additional protection they provide
from bacteria and other pathogens.
Wet curing (also sometimes referred to as "brining", "pickling" or "sweet pickling" when the
mix has sugar included in it) has its primary application in large scale commercial food
processing. A brine solution is either forced into the arteries in larger cuts of meat, or "stitch-
pumped" through fluid injection needles directly into the flesh.
The main advantage of wet and combination curing is that there is relatively little food weight
loss. Against this, however, is the fact that both methods generally require refrigeration, and
the end result is not as intensely flavourful.
181
Most bacon, and many of the cheaper hams produced today are cured by stitch pumping using
multiple needles, but the texture, overall quality and flavour is not nearly as good as the dry-
cured product.
For our purposes here we will confine our discussion to dry curing only.
3 DRY CURING
As its name suggests, dry curing involves the application of a dry salt-and-seasoning mix,
without wetting or immersing or injecting the foods being cured with any form of brine or
curing liquid.
As discussed earlier in the book, the bacteria which spoil meats and other foodstuffs require
moisture to live and grow. Salt (and also sugar), by removing water and other fluids from
inside the meat or fish being cured, dry out the food, and the process not only deprives the
bacteria of the moist conditions they need to develop, but also starves them of moisture, as
well. For this reason, foods like salted butter will not spoil even if they are not refrigerated,
whereas unsalted butter will quickly spoil if it is not kept cold. Salt also bonds the meat to its
fats.
What actually happens in the dry curing process is that salt applied to the outside of the meat
migrates inwards, and in doing so replaces water and other fluids, which are forced out to the
surface of the food where they evaporate or simply ooze away.
As with smoking, the original and primary purpose of curing meats and fish was almost
certainly to preserve them. In recent times, however, while preservation is still an important
objective, an equally, or more important one has been the flavour which curing, and in
particular dry curing, imparts.
The process used today differs little from that used from early Mediaeval times. The dry
curing mix is rubbed into the meat or fish to be cured, which is then layered and tightly pressed
in suitable containers (wooden barrels since early times, with stainless steel, glazed ware, or
plastic tubs being added in more modern times) and left for several days or even weeks to cure
and ripen. Applying pressure during the curing process also contributes to the "solid", tight-
grained nature of the best dry-cured meat.
During this time the salt (and sugar, if used) dehydrates the meat or fish in the curing
containers, and the fluids which are drawn out of the meat trickle down to the bottom of the
container in which the curing process is taking place.
Traditionally, either the container floor is provided with holes, through which the fluids can
drain, or alternatively the pieces of food packed in the container are rotated at regular
intervals, so that successive layers lie in the briny fluid mix at the bottom for a maximum of a
few days at a time. Fresh dry-cure mix is typically applied at each rotation.
Another reason for rotating the layers (even when drain holes are provided) is to be found in
182
the fact that because the meat layers at the bottom of the curing container are subject to the
accumulative weight of all the meat layers on top of them, the bottom layers lose more fluids,
absorb more salt and seasoning, and achieve a denser and more desirable texture than do those
higher up in the pile. Re-layering at regular intervals is necessary if the cure is to be uniform
through all the meat being processed.
Where temperatures are consistently around 4 to 10 C (40 to 50 F) drain holes can be
dispensed with; above this temperature, food in the brine mixture tends to spoil, and holes are
advisable to avoid a build-up of fluids.
If relatively thin pieces of flesh are being cured, it is enough simply to dredge them in
seasoning salt, and shake the salt off before layering the pieces in the container in which they
are to be cured.
Photo: 2006-03-04-13-15 54 by WmJR: Flickr Creative Commons

With larger pieces, however, like hams and shoulders, it is important to massage the salt
forcefully into the meat, using the thumbs to press it down towards the bone, and then
completely to cover the meat with a thick "skin" of salt before layering.
Because large cuts of meat have a greater risk of spoiling if cured with the bone still in, it
makes sense, at least until one becomes more proficient, to de-bone the meat so that salt and
curing agents can be rubbed into the cavity left by the bone, as well as over the outer surface of
the meat being cured.
Extracting the bone without cutting into the meat is an art, probably best left to old-style,
bespoke butchers. If de-boning is carried out at home it will require cutting down through the
skin, and then, with a very sharp knife, carefully prising the bone loose from its moorings.
After the curing mix has been rubbed into the cut, the slit will need to be stitched up, using
butcher's string and a large sail-maker's needle (or a bait needle as used by deep-sea anglers).
183
In addition to making the food more flavourful, among the advantages of dry curing is that it
acts faster than other curing methods in dehydrating the food to which it is applied. Because
the cured meat is drier, it is typically better preserved.
The dry curing process is also generally more tolerant of higher ambient temperatures.
Paradoxically, the fact that dry-cured food is generally drier than wet-cured is both a benefit in
terms of improved flavour and preservation, but also a disadvantage commercially in terms of
the weight loss involved. (The closer the cured weight of the product to its uncured weight,
the greater the profit potential for the supplier providing the cure!!).
Dry-cured foods last well without refrigeration, and in the form of jerky and biltong are a
favourite trail food for campers, hikers, hunters, farmers and fishermen.
4 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE DRY-CURING PROCESS.

While certain food types require particular processes and treatment, there are a number of
factors and cautionary notes which apply to all of them.
Dehydration: One of the most widely held misconceptions about dry curing is that in order
properly to dehydrate the meat or fish being cured you need the application of at least a certain
amount of heat. For this reason, many designs of jerky and biltong curing boxes include a lamp
in the box.
In fact, it is not heat, but a reduction in humidity that we should be aiming for. Where an
incandescent lamp is used, its purpose should be to dry, rather than to warm, the air passing
over the food. In fact, most experts rate food which has been air dried in a cool draft of air as
being of consistently higher quality than where the air stream is warm or even hot. In South
Africa, Namibia and Botswana the very best biltong is generally held to be that made in a
breezy, unheated area during the cold, dry winter months.
The air needs to move in a cool, steady, drying stream. Whether you dry your cured meat or
fish in a curing box or in a cool spot in the scullery or basement, or in an outside shed or
warehouse, the trick is to ensure that a cool stream of dust-free air can freely move around and
over it.
Curing Containers: As has been alluded to above, because of the high salt content in the
184
process, containers should be made of a material which will resist corrosion. Brass, copper
and aluminium are totally unsuitable, as are most ferrous materials. Stainless steel, glazed-
ware and plastic may all used.
Wood can also be used (traditionally, pork and beef were salted in wooden barrels) but
because it can easily provide a breeding ground for bacteria, care has to be taken to clean and
sterilise it thoroughly after and before each use.
The containers should be provided with lids to protect the meat from the air while curing.
Food Selection: As a general rule, fresh meat is preferable to frozen, and fresh fish is pretty
much essential. Avoid if possible vacuum sealed meat, and if you have to use it, make sure
you wipe it down well with vinegar before you start the curing process. Invariably, the higher
the grade of the meat, the better the end product.
Preparation: If you cannot avoid using frozen meat, make sure that you thaw it slowly, in the
refrigerator, and not in the open at room temperature. You will find that where cutting is
indicated, this is easier and more convenient before the meat is completely thawed. Likewise,
if you're using fresh meat, or fish, it helps to chill it just short of freezing as an aid to easier
cutting.
Cutting: Where you are not curing an entire cut of muscle meat, like a ham or a loin, there are
three methods of cutting your meat – with the grain, across the grain, and diagonally through the
grain. Each has its merits.
If the meat is relatively free of sinews and tendons, like A-grade tenderloin, silverside, and
rump, it is generally better to cut with the grain. Where meat is characterised by having a high
percentage of tendons and sinews, cutting with the grain can make it unacceptably "chewy",
and here it is often advisable to cut in strips across the grain. And where chunks, rather than
strips of meat are being cured, cutting diagonally through the grain will give a product which
holds together well, but "snaps" easily for eating.
Cut with the grain

Photo: 2006-03-04-11-58-21 by WmJR: Flickr Creative Commons
185
Whichever cutting method you choose, your knife should be razor sharp. Not only is it
extremely difficult to cut with a blunt knife, but the appearance of the meat will look ragged,
and "sawn" rather than clean and appealing.
Photo: Knife sharpening by David Davies: Flickr Creative Commons

You should aim for a consistent thickness of meat for even curing and a pleasing appearance.
As with bread, it takes concentration and practice to avoid cutting a wedge of flesh, but it's
worth taking the time to get this right. Unlike bread, the cut needs to be a continuous slice,
rather than an intermittent sawing motion.
Stripping: Low grade meats, with a high preponderance of sinews and tendons, may benefit
by "stripping". This involves snipping the tendons or sinews and then stripping them out of the
meat by gripping one end with pliers or forceps and steadily pulling the tendons free. It takes
patience and effort, but the end product is almost always significantly more pleasant to eat.
Again, it is more easily done when the meat is chilled just short of freezing.
Marinating: A distinction needs to be drawn between marinades used primarily to "set" the
meat, and those used primarily to flavour it. Vinegar is typically used for the former, and
biltong, for example, is traditionally soaked in a vinegar-rich marinade for a few hours before
seasoning is applied Jerky, on the other hand, is often marinated in a seasoning mixture which
includes liquids like Worcestershire, Soy or Teriyaki sauce, and honey or syrup, in addition to
salt and seasoning spices.
186
Photo: Marinated for around 10 hours by Arnold Gatilao (arnold | inuyaki): Flickr Creative
Commons
When marinating, it's important to cover the meat with the marinade, and to cover the container
with a mesh or other cover to keep away insects and flies.
Seasoning: Salt is common to all dry curing seasoning mixes. (The only exception to this rule
is in the case of some jerky recipes, where saltiness is wholly or partially provided by the
inclusion of soy sauce in a marinade).
Deciding on the precise amount of salt to use is part art and part science. Over-salting will
make the food inedible; under-salting could allow the growth of bacteria and other nasties, as
well as leaving the food bland, and lacking in flavour and "character". With practice, one
develops a "feel" for the right quantity of salt, but to start with it really is important to stick to
a recipe you are comfortable with.
Special mention must be made here about the use of nitrates and nitrites (commonly lumped
together under the term "cooking saltpetre") in the seasoning mix. In the context of food curing,
they serve three purposes: elimination of pathogens and the various organisms responsible for
food poisoning; flavouring; and food colouring.
Natural salts from different parts of the world have different quantities of nitrates, and from
early times it was known that certain salts (because of the nitrates in them) preserved the
distinctive red colour seen in certain types of ham, for example. Different salts also tasted
differently, again in large measure due to the different quantities of nitrates or nitrites
contained in them.
But nitrates and nitrites are also toxic. In fairly small quantities they can kill. For this reason,
while they remain one of the most effective means of preventing food poisoning, and of killing
the spores of the botulinum bacterium (particularly prevalent in cured dry sausages), and other
bacteria in game and pork in particular, the allowable quantity in food curing mixes in most
countries is strictly regulated.
187
As a poison, nitrite is about three times as toxic as nitrate. On the plus side of the equation,
nitrite is generally more stable than nitrate. It also works better at the low temperatures where
bacterial growth is most effectively retarded (around 2 to 5 C, or 35 to 42 F); whereas nitrates
work better at around 7 to 11 C.
One of the biggest pluses for nitrite is that it fixes colour, and kills bacteria and parasites,
faster than nitrate. Because the total time in which the seasoning mix is in contact with the
food is reduced, less salt is absorbed by the food and there is less chance of over-salting. In
most countries, nitrates are not allowed at all in the curing of bacons.
Providing nitrites are used within prescribed limits (200 parts per million in the US),
extensive tests have indicated that they are not harmful to health. In fact, there is strong
evidence that we receive more nitrates from the vegetables we eat than we do from properly
cured foods.
Probably the safest way to cover your bets is to buy one of the proprietary cures sold for the
purpose, where the quantities of salt and nitrites are precisely and uniformly measured out. If
you prepare your curing mix yourself, the combination is generally around 95% to 97.5%
common salt, and no more than 2.5% to 5% sodium nitrite.
Spices and Rubs: Most of the classical dry-cured hams and bacons use little more than plain
salt, cooking saltpetre (nitrates and/or nitrites) and sometimes a little sugar. But this doesn't
mean that you can't use other seasonings and spices, as well – particularly in jerky recipes.
Photo: Spicy by Gajman: Flickr Creative Commons

Ground black pepper, crushed coriander (which also helps as a fly deterrent), sage and thyme,
nutmeg, chilli, garlic and onion flakes or powder are among the favourites, but almost any of
the dry rubs mentioned in the earlier sections on smoking and barbecue, above, can be used. In
many cases, it's better to apply spices after the meat has been cured and ripened, while it is
still damp and immediately before it is hung out to dry.
188
Stages and Timing in the Curing Process: As we have seen, as salt is absorbed into the food
being cured, fluids are leeched out of it. Those fluids are in effect a brine solution, and the lost
salt needs to be restored from time to time during the curing process.
The total cure time depends partly on the weight of the meat and partly on its thickness.
Typically, the total time is broken down into a number of stages.
For larger cuts of meat, like hams, it's best to go by weight, and for smaller cuts by thickness.
The following are the minimum times recommended (as we've alluded to, for hams like those
from Parma and Serrano, months and even years are often the norm).
Cure Time By Weight:
For small cuts allow 4 days per kg of the cut being processed.
For large cuts, like hams, allow 6 days per kg.
Cure Time By Thickness: For strips or slabs of meat (like steaks and fillets) allow 7 days
per 25 mm (1") of thickness.
To illustrate, let's take as an example a number of 7 kg (about fifteen and a half pounds) hams.
Allowing 6 days per kg, total curing time will come to 42 days.
To ensure a uniform application of salt and seasoning, the cure mixture is divided into two
equal halves, and one half is applied at the start of the cure. The mix is rubbed well into the
meat, taking particular care to massage it deep into the tissues which overlay or are in contact
with bone. Salt should then be spread over the entire outer surface of the meat, with no gaps to
allow bacteria to gain entry.
The second half of the curing mix is again divided into two further parts.
Layering and Rotation: The salted and seasoned food is then layered, skin or fat side down,
in corrosion resistant containers, ensuring there are no gaps between the pieces. Rotation of
the food is according to the "Rule of Thirds" – for the first 1/3 of the curing time, half the
curing mixture is used; at the end of that time the meat is again seasoned with a quarter of the
remaining curing mix and the top layers of food are rotated to the bottom. After another 1/3 of
the curing time has elapsed, the last quarter of the curing mix is applied, and the food again
rotated and re-layered.
In our example, the hams would cure for 21 days in the first half of the cure mix. They would
then be re-seasoned with half of the remaining mix, re-layered and allowed to cure until day 31
or 32, when the final quarter of the curing mix would be applied, the layers rotated, and the
meat left to cure until day 42.
Hanging, Drying and Ripening: At the end of the cure, the food is wiped down, drained and
patted dry, before being hung. In situations where there is plenty of space; a cool, dust-free
environment; a steady draft of air; relatively constant temperature and adequate protection from
189
birds, rodents and insects, the meat can be hung from hooks on a line stretched tightly, for
example, between two walls. Many believe that the "natural" cure which this affords gives the
best quality and flavour.
Photo: Wind-dried meat with chilli by Alpha (avlxyz): Flickr Creative Commons
Where these conditions don't apply, particularly where space is at a premium, or where there
is high ambient humidity, food can be cured in a drying cabinet. These can be obtained
commercially, and designs and construction details for one you can build yourself are given in
PART 10, below.
Whichever method you use, it's important to ensure that the pieces of meat don't touch one
another, so that air can flow freely around them. While the drying cabinet can be made of
wood, wood should not come into direct contact with the food being dried.
Drying and ripening times vary. As we have seen, some of the gourmet hams and bacons, like
those from Parma, Serrano, Bayonne, etc can hang for years. When home-curing, it's largely a
matter of taste and patience. As a general rule, though, allow at least a few months drying time
for larger hams to achieve their full flavour, and to eliminate bacteria.
Drying Cabinets: Where drying times are quick (for biltong, and jerky, for example) drying
cabinets can be as simple as a cardboard or wooden box, with vents in the box providing a
decent air flow across the food being cured in them, and dowelling rods spanning the box from
which the strips of meat can be hung. Where longer drying and ripening times are required,
however, a more permanent and durable structure is recommended.
Equipment for cold smoking (whether commercial or hand-built) covered earlier in the book –
and also in PART 10, below – can easily be adapted for air drying by simply exchanging a
draft of cool dry air in place of a stream of smoke. An old refrigerator, with a series of small,
mesh-covered vent holes at or around the top, and a fan at the bottom, is ideal.
As with smoking, key equipment considerations are ease of cleaning, and resistance to
corrosion. For large quantities of food, side loading cabinets are generally more convenient
than top loading, and provision should be made either to hang larger cuts and strips of meat
190
from bars, or lay smaller pieces on racks or grids.
Particularly in the case of wooden cabinets, it's a good idea to protect the floor of the cabinet
with a plastic or stainless steel tray, to collect any salty fluids dripping from the food being
cured, and prevent the growth of bacteria and any tendency for the wood to rot.
The draft of air in a curing cabinet ideally needs to be significantly cooler than the smoke
stream in a cold-smoking cabinet, so less reliance can be placed on convection for the
necessary movement of air. Instead, fans are used either to suck, or preferably blow, a stream
of air through the cabinet, and over the food. If you're making your own cabinet, fans can be
bought or scavenged from a variety of sources – from old computers, air conditioners, hair
dryers and the like. (As a warning note, smell the draft of air issuing from the fan before
installing it– particularly in old fans, there is sometimes a "plastic-y" smell which could taint
the food).
To avoid sucking or blowing dust and other air-borne particles over the food, filters should be
provided in the air stream.
Incandescent lamps are often used in drying cabinets – partly to create the convection needed
to drive a stream of air, and partly to take moisture out of the air. Since the best dry curing
relies on cold, rather than warmed, air placing a lamp inside the cabinet, in our view, is
counter-productive. The answer, as in the case of the offset firebox used in the better models
of smokers, is to separate the lamp from the cabinet, so the air passing over it is dried, and
allowed at least partially to cool, before it enters the cabinet. We describe how in PART 10,
below.
Maintenance, Hygiene And Safety: The basic hygiene precautions to be taken are no
different from those applied to any form of food preparation. They are even more important,
though, in the case of air-cured foods because most dry, salt-cured foods, with the exception of
jerky, are not exposed to the sterilising effects of any form of heat.
Here is a short list of basic hygiene ground rules;
Ensure all equipment, containers and utensils are clean. A mild solution of household bleach
can be used, or a fairly strong concentration of spirit vinegar. Since bacteria breed in cracks
and crannies, avoid using harsh scourers that could score or cut the surface of your container;
(Preferably) wear catering-quality rubber gloves, and if you don't, make a point of washing
your hands thoroughly with soap before and after handling foods;
Don't allow raw, and cooked or processed foods, to come into contact with one another;
Thaw frozen meats completely before curing, and thaw in the refrigerator rather than at kitchen
room temperature;
Refrigerate meat, fish and poultry at 5 C (+-40 F) or below, and ideally use within 2 to 3 days;
Marinate foods in the refrigerator;
191
Don't re-use marinades (if you do, make sure that they are vigorously boiled first);
Mould: Mould develops in warm, moist or humid conditions, and is commonly experienced
during prolonged wet or rainy weather, and at the coast. Once it takes hold, it spreads
quickly.
The best cure is prevention, and curing foods in a dry, cool environment is recommended. If it
is caught early enough mould can be removed by wiping affected food with a cloth moistened
in vinegar, and catching it early is a good reason to check food regularly during the hanging
and ripening phases.
Stopping pieces of meat from touching one another while drying will also go a long way in
preventing the development and spread of mould, and marinating meat in vinegar, or at very
least wiping it off with vinegar, before curing it, and hanging it, is a useful first line of defence.
Bacteria And Other Nasties
Because many, if not the majority of dry cures (jerky is an exception) do not rely on any form
of heating, particular care has to be taken to prevent the growth of food spoiling bacteria, like
the botulinum and salmonella bacteria, and parasites like trichinella.
The first line of prevention of trichinella infestations is by freezing. While some of the (rarer)
varieties are resistant to freezing, the more common will be killed if exposed to freezing at -
15 C for 20 days. If you're dry-curing pork, it's advisable to buy the certified product to avoid
even the smallest risk of trichinosis, which is a particularly nasty infection of roundworms and
the cysts they produce.
Freezing will not kill bacteria, but will effectively limit their growth.
Wild Game: Where wild game is killed by hunting, the meat around the bullet entry should not
be used for curing. As all soldiers know, the materials carried into the flesh by a bullet (hair
and gunpowder residues, for example) quickly set up infections.
Gut-shot wounds are particularly dangerous where the contents of the animal's intestines are
released with the potential to infect any meat with which they come into contact. Any meat
which could have been infected in this way should be cooked.
Storage: As a generalisation, the longer foods have been cured, the better preserved they will
be, and the less need there will be for refrigeration. Classic dry-cured hams, for example, like
192
Parma and Serrano, will keep in unrefrigerated conditions for months and even years without
spoiling.
Commons
Foods like jerky and biltong, with a much quicker curing time, while they will keep well for
days and even a few weeks are better stored in refrigerated or vacuum-packed conditions.
(Our experience, though, is that once we have a batch of biltong the risk of it going off is
negligible – it's eaten long before there's any danger of that happening!).

Cured meat products fall into two distinct groups – those where an entire cut or strip of muscle
meat, such as a ham, or loin, biltong or jerky, is cured; and those where portions of minced
meat are cured in the form of sausages, salamis and the like. This latter group are often
referred to as "reconstituted" or "comminuted" products.
Following are examples of how to make some of the more popular cured meat products:
6 JERKY AND BILTONG
193
As we have seen, jerky and biltong originally developed out of the need experienced by early
colonists in different parts of the developing world for a convenient, nutritious trail food
which could be stored for extended periods without refrigeration. Both cured meat types are
still valued as such by hunters, outdoorsmen, extreme sportsmen and sports spectators, but
their appeal in more recent times has extended into the realm of popular snack foods eaten
practically anywhere.
While in theory they can be made from virtually any lean meat, by far the bulk of both biltong
and jerky is today made from beef – not only because of its ready availability, and relatively
low cost, but because of the significantly lower risk it poses, in comparison with pork, for
infection by the trichinella parasite. Fish biltong, particularly that made from tuna, is also
becoming increasingly popular.
Popular cuts of beef include silverside, rump and tenderloin, and lean brisket, although many
others are also suitable.
The main difference between biltong and jerky, as we have seen, is in the application of heat.
Jerky is typically heated to an internal temperature of around 72 C (160 F) as a precaution
against bacterial infestation, and because it is desirable to reach this temperature quickly (so
the meat doesn't cook!) jerky strips are consistently thin (+- 5-7mm, or ¼"), whereas biltong is
generally much thicker.
Jerky Methods and Recipes: Using a very sharp knife, first remove all fat, and then slice the
meat thinly, either with or across the grain depending on your preference and the quality and
"stringiness" of the meat in question. As we've said before, partially freezing the meat makes
cutting it much easier.
194
Photos: Knife sharpening by David Davies and 2006-03-04-11-44-28 by WmJr: Flickr
Creative Commons
Marinate the meat in a marinade which could typically contain 4 parts soy sauce, 1/2 part salt
or Prague Powder#1 (salt containing a prescribed safe percentage of sodium nitrite), 1/8 part
each of onion and garlic powder, 1/8 part ground black pepper and 1 part Worcestershire
sauce. Add 1/8 part ground chilli powder or cayenne pepper for extra "bite". The marinade
should be sufficient to cover the strips of jerky, and placed in the refrigerator for anything from
1 to 6 hours, depending on the degree of saltiness you want to achieve.
Two methods of heating jerky are employed. Either the raw strips of meat are rapidly boiled
in the marinade for around five minutes at the end of the marinating period and immediately
before drying, or they are oven-heated for around ten minutes at a temperature of +- 138 C
(280 F) after they have been dried. In either case test, with a thermometer to ensure that the
internal temperature of the strips has reached the desired 72 C, and to avoid actually cooking
the meat.
To dry the jerky, once the marinating process is completed, the strips should be drained or
patted dry before being placed on trays or racks in an oven which has been pre-heated to
around 60 C, or 140 F. Drying times will vary from around 5 or 6 hours for strips boiled in
the marinade before drying, up to 20 hours or more if they are only to be heated after drying.
Check for dryness every few hours.
195
Photo: All dried out by Arnold Gatilao (arnold | inuyaki): Flickr Creative Commons
When the desired degree of dryness has been reached, remove any moisture or stickiness from
the surface of the jerky strips and allow the jerky on the racks or trays to cool naturally, before
packing them in plastic bags (ideally vacuum-packed), or glass jars.
Biltong Methods and Recipes: Traditionally, the early European colonists in South Africa,
notably the Dutch in the seventeenth century, used a variety of red meats for the preparation of
biltong, which according to Wikipedia derives from the Dutch words bil, meaning "rump", and
tong, meaning "strip" or "tongue".
In the absence of established herds of domestic animals, wild animals including most antelope
species, warthog, buffalo, Ostrich, wildebeest and even elephant were hunted by the early
Dutch settlers as they trekked northwards in their wagons to escape British rule in the Cape
Colony.
With the increasing latter day popularity of game farming in Southern Africa and Namibia,
significant quantities of biltong are still made from antelope like eland, kudu, gemsbok,
springbok and impala, but by far the most popular meat today is beef.
To make biltong:
If you hunt, or have friends who do, the rump or buttock of an antelope like kudu or eland
makes a superb, relatively fat-free, biltong. If you don't, or if you are one of perhaps a
majority of biltong eaters who likes a rather more fatty product, buy a whole beef cut such as a
rump, loin or silverside. Biltong loses as much as 40% to 50% of its "wet" weight in drying
(depending on whether you like it moist or dry), so buy about 5kg (+-11 pounds).
Wash the meat, and pat dry. Then, using a very sharp knife, cut the meat into strips about
25mm (1") thick, leaving the fat layered along one edge of the strip. (You can cut it off after
curing the biltong if you don't like fat, but it definitely adds to the flavour during the drying
process).
Photo: 2006-03-04-11-57-47 by WmJr: Flickr Creative Commons
196
Marinate the meat in a marinade made up from 8 parts vinegar (spirit, cider and even balsamic
are all good), and 1 part red wine or brandy, for 3 to 6 hours. The vinegar helps to "set" the
meat, and prevent the formation of mould.
Drain and dry the meat thoroughly.
Arrange the pieces edge to edge on a piece of cling wrap or plastic sheet spread out to protect
your working surface, and sprinkle and pat into the meat a generous amount of a curing mix
made up of 4 parts each of seasoning salt and brown sugar, 6 parts ground coriander, 1 part of
ground black pepper and half a part of sodium nitrite, mixed thoroughly. (For a perfect
coriander mix, fry the whole seeds in a heavy-based, hot, pan without any fat or oil until the
seeds just start to burn; then put the seeds into a clean dishcloth, and gently crush them to
release a really pungent, heady smell).
Turn the meat over and repeat on the flip side.
Layer the pieces of meat in a plastic or stainless steel container, and leave to cure for between
12 and 24 hours, turning the pieces and rotating the layers every 2 to 3 hours for an even cure.
Remove any liquid from the surface of the meat with a cloth soaked in vinegar, and pat the
meat dry with an absorbent cloth or paper towel.
Press additional ground whole coriander into the meat.
If you want to vary the basic flavour, try adding (using some discretion, until you gain
confidence!) garlic or onion flakes, dried basil or oregano, cayenne pepper chilli powder, or
other seasonings and spices from the list given in PART 6 above.
Hang your biltong strips either in a cool, dry room with a good air flow, free from dust,
insects, birds and rodents, or in a drying cabinet. Optimum drying temperature is around 5 to
10 C (+- 40 to 50 C). Drying time is typically around 5 to 7 days, but you should start checking
from about day 2 depending on whether you want a moist or dry end product.
Once the meat is dried, remove the fat if you don't want to keep it; either way, cut the meat
diagonally across the grain into bite-sized pieces.
The drier the biltong the longer it will keep unrefrigerated – up to several weeks in a cool, dry
climate. If you prefer your biltong moist, it's best to vacuum pack it, and store it in the
refrigerator. To prevent mould from developing, ensure that moist sticks of biltong are not
allowed to touch one another for any length of time.
While biltong is traditionally associated with meat (the Dutch Voortrekkers on their trek north
out of the Cape Colony did not come anywhere near the sea!), increasingly today fish in South
Africa is also being turned into biltong. Tuna is particularly popular, as it is large enough for
strips 25mm (1") thick to be processed, and then sliced.
As sold in the shops in South Africa, biltong is offered in strips, chunks, and chips. Dried until
197
it is almost brittle, in extra-fine strips, it is sold and branded as "Snapstix". It is even
available as a powder to be sprinkled onto salads and baked into muffins and other cooked
dishes. It's an indispensable accompaniment to any rugby match, whether the match is watched
in a stadium or on television.
And its appeal has spread to other countries around the world, many of which boast specialist
biltong outlets serving not only émigré South Africans, but also native residents who have
discovered the attraction of this delicious food.
7 DRIED SAUSAGE AND "DROEWORS" METHODS AND RECIPES: If dry-cured

hams are the Himalayas of cured charcuterie products, salamis are its Everest. While it is
quite possible to dry cure salami at home, it is complicated, and if you don't get everything just
right salami has the potential to make anyone eating it really ill!
In large measure, this is because instead of inhibiting bacterial growth, the fermentation
process required for a good salami has at its core the controlled cultivation of a small band of
selected bacteria, to the exclusion of others. Salt – and sugar – levels need to be exactly right;
temperatures need to be held constant; acidity and pH values are critical; the addition of
nitrates and nitrites (and the percentage and introduction of each) has to be carefully managed;
and humidity needs to be precisely controlled.
Fortunately, however, there's a breed of dried sausages, exemplified by South African
"droëwors" ("dried sausage") where fermentation is not required, and where the curing
process is relatively simple, and this is discussed below.
Beef is the best meat to start with. Pork, which predominates in salamis, needs carefully
controlled fermentation to prevent it from becoming rancid, and it, veal and mutton are not
recommended.
Thinner sausages are generally easier to make, and for this reason the casings should be sheep
rather than pork or beef;
If you use game, ensure that the same precautions are observed as are covered above in respect
to its use in jerky and biltong, and because the taste of game fat is not always appealing, it's
best to trim the fat off the game meat, and substitute it with beef fat;
Whereas salami mixes have a meat to fat ratio as high as 50:50, with dried sausage the
198
percentage of fat to meat should ideally not exceed 10 to 15%;
Meat should be cut into cubes of a size which will fit easily and without jamming into the
throat of your meat mincer or grinder;
In a stainless steel, glazed ware of plastic container marinate the cubes of meat in the
refrigerator for about an hour in a marinade consisting of four parts vinegar, four parts dry red
wine, 1 part brandy and 1 part lemon juice, making sure the marinade covers the meat;
Pre-cool the meat to 1-2 C (34-36 F) before mincing. (This helps the fat to go through the
grinder plates without clogging or "smearing");
A double mincing approach is recommended, and while this is happening the sheep casings
should be soaked in water (for a maximum of 2-3 hours) to soften;
Photo: sausage casings and meat by Rachel Tayse: Flickr Creative Commons
The first mince should be through a fairly coarse grinding plate (around 12 to 14mm);
Then season the first batch of minced meat with a seasoning mix of salt, pepper and a selection
of spices of your choice (coriander, ground nutmeg or cloves, garlic or onion powder, etc). A
good starter mix could be:
For every 5kg (11 pounds) of lean beef"
- 330 g (about 12 ounces) beef fat;
- 45 ml (about 2 ounces) salt;
- 7 ml (about 1/3 ounce) ground black pepper;
- 25 ml (about 1 ounce) roasted and crushed whole coriander seeds;
- A good pinch of powdered cloves;
- A pinch of cinnamon or nutmeg;
- A good pinch of garlic or onion powder;
- Chilli or cayenne pepper if you want a "bite" to your sausage.
Allow the seasoned mix to "set" for about 30 minutes while pre-cooling again to around 1-2 C
(34-36 F), and then mince through a medium coarse grinding plate (around 4-6mm).
199
Pat the soaked casings dry with a paper towel;
Tie off one end of a casing with string and slip the open end of the casing over the spout of a
sausage stuffer.
Photo: stuffing sausage by Southern Foodways Alliance: Flickr Creative Commons

Stuffing sausages is more of an art than a science, and when you first start you'll find that you
under-fill or over-fill the casings, or that they break, split or tear. Don't despair! A little bit of
practice soon makes perfect, and the trick is to maintain a constant speed and feed. (And any
mistakes can be rectified by simply squeezing the stuffing out of the casings and re-stuffing
them until you're happy with the result;
The jury is out as to whether you should stuff tightly to ensure there is no air between the mince
particles in the sausage or whether the stuffing should be relatively "loose" for more rapid
drying. Our own preference is for a slightly denser stuffing;
As you fill each casing, slip it off the sausage stuffer and tie off the open end;
Hang your filled sausage casings either in a cool, dry room with a good air flow, free from
dust, insects, birds and rodents, or in a drying cabinet. Ensure the sausages don't touch one
another. Optimum drying temperature is around 10 to 20 C (+- 50 to 70 F). Drying time is
typically around 5 to 7 days, but you should start checking from about day 2 depending on
whether you want a moist or dry end product;
If you're using a drying cabinet and don't have space enough for the full quantity of sausages, in
their "raw" state they freeze well, and can be kept for weeks or even months;
Thaw frozen "raw" sausages in the refrigerator, rather than in ambient room temperature, and
ensure that they are completely thawed before hanging and drying.
200
8 DRY-CURED HAM (PROSCIUTTO) METHODS AND RECIPES: While dry-curing
hams (a la Parma, Serrano, and Black Forest) is not quite as difficult (or potentially
dangerous!) as making Italian-style salamis at home, they do require rather more care and
attention to detail than many other dry-cured products.
Photo: Jamon Serrano and Jameron Iberico by Adam Jones (Adam Jones PhD): Flickr
Creative Commons
You may have to bin the odd ham which doesn't cure properly, but when you consider the
difference in cost between store-bought Parma ham, for example, and the cost of a fresh leg of
pork which can be processed into a very acceptable substitute made at home, a scrapping rate
of even as high as one in five still makes the project economically appealing.
To bring down the potential scrapping rate, it's advisable to cure each ham in its own
container, rather than layering a number of them in a barrel or tub together.
If you're going to process a number of hams at the same time (in separate containers!) plan in
advance where you're going to store the containers while they're ripening, and where you're
going to hang them once they're cured!
Since they'll be drying for several months, you'll need a committed space with all the attributes
we've discussed above – either a cool, dry room with a good air flow, free from dust, insects,
birds and rodents, or a drying cabinet (a large one!) where the hams don't touch one another,
and where there is a fairly constant temperature – ideally 10 to 15 C (+- 50 to 60 F).
201
You'll need:
A container for each ham to be cured, and a tray under each container to catch the brine and
fluids released during the curing process. Containers should be selected to allow the hams to
fit comfortably into them with about 15mm (+-1/2") clear space all round the ham once the lid
is put back on the container. Plastic boxes are ideal for the containers. They are readily
available, cheap, and from the huge variety available it is relatively easy to find an exact fit for
your hams. Often, you can buy an extra lid to form a suitable drainage tray under the
container. Small drainage holes need to be drilled into the bottom of the containers, and
they're cheap enough to be treated as "throw-aways" if you decide not to repeat the exercise;
A board for each container, which is rigid enough not to deform when a weight of around 10 kg
is placed on it. The board can be wooden or plastic, and just smaller than the interior
dimensions of the container.
Enough cheesecloth or muslin to completely cover each ham when wrapped and sewn around
it at least two and preferably more times;
Butcher's string and a suitable needle to sew it with (a sail-maker's needle or fisherman's bait
needle is ideal);
As many legs of pork as you require to cure (and for which you have containers!);
Enough fine salt to provide a "bed" of around 20 to 25 mm (3/4" – 1") under each ham in its
container and then completely cover it. (If you're going to be processing a number of hams,
you'd do well to buy your salt wholesale!);
About 25 gm (1 ounce) each of ground black pepper, and roasted and crushed whole coriander
seeds;
Wine or spirit vinegar.
When you've got all your materials and ingredients together, proceed as follows:
De-bone your hams. As mentioned earlier you can cure hams on the bone, but it's easier and
safer to de-bone them before curing and ripening them. To do this you'll need a very sharp
knife, with an equally sharp point;
202
Cut through the skin of the ham and then with the point of the knife carefully work the bone
loose from its moorings;
Rub salt well into the slit, and then, using butcher's string and needle, sew the edges of the slit
up as neatly as possible;
Place the container so that it rests on its matching drainage tray, and then fill the bottom of the
container with a layer of salt about 20-25 mm thick;
Then layer all of the pepper and coriander seeds evenly on top of the salt;
Place the ham, skin-and-fat side up, and flesh side down, onto the layer of salt and seasonings
and then pour and pack enough salt to completely surround and cover the ham to a consistent
depth of a minimum of 20 mm (3/4");
On top of the salt, place the wooden or plastic board, and weigh it down so that it presses onto
the salt and ham in the container to assist in draining and also to give the ham the characteristic
dense and succulent texture of its Continental cousins. A handy weight can be made by filling
a plastic bag with around 12kg (+-27 pounds) of wet beach sand. To avoid the possibility of
sand leaking out seal the bag and place it in at least one and preferably two other sealed bags;
Leave the container in a cool dry place (the corner of a cellar or an outside shed is ideal,
provided it is rodent and insect free). Timing is critical! You want the salt to thoroughly
infuse the ham, but too long and it will become unacceptably salty. A good rule of thumb for a
5 kg (11 pound) ham, cured individually, is a minimum of 15 days, and a maximum of 20;
After the prescribed time, remove the ham from its bed of salt and wash (not soak!) it in cold
water to remove all surplus salt;
Wipe the ham thoroughly in a clean cloth soaked in vinegar, pat dry and wrap tightly in at least
two but not more than three layers of cheese cloth or muslin;
203
Sew the muslin "shroud" up with butcher's string, and then hang in a cool, breezy, spot for a
minimum of 4 and preferably closer to 6 months to ripen and dry. As with all dry-curing, the
conditions for ideal hanging are a relatively constant temperature and a consistent stream of
cool, dust-free air. Since you probably will only check on progress at fairly wide-spaced
intervals, take pains to ensure your hams are protected from rodents, birds and insects;
When your hams are finally cured, you may well find on unwrapping them that they are
covered in a layer of mould. Providing the ham doesn't smell positively bad, the mould is not
a problem and can be wiped or rubbed off with a cloth soaked in vinegar;
Photo: Wanna taste? by Mar10os: Flickr Creative Commons

To keep the ham moist and succulent, cut just enough paper thin slices to eat at one sitting.
Photo: Serrano Ham Figs by Kurman Communications (kurmanstaff): Flickr Creative

Commons
204
9 DRY-CURED BACONS (PANCETTA, GUANCIALE, ETC) METHODS AND
RECIPES:
As we've seen, most bacons generally available in the supermarkets today are wet-cured.
Their flavour bears no comparison to traditional dry-cured bacon, and in particular to bacon
cuts like pancetta (cured pig's belly) and guanciale (cured pig's jowl), either of which lifts a
pasta amatriciana or carbonara or a bacon pizza from the status of a good meal to an ambrosial
offering.
Photo: Guanciale by Jeffrey_Allen: Flickr Creative Commons

Pancetta, like the "streaky bacon" with which we are probably most familiar on our breakfast
tables, is made from pork belly. Unlike the bacon we have with our breakfast eggs, it is
seasoned with a variety of spices, and dry-cured (without smoking). In terms of flavour it's as
far removed from the bacon we buy in our supermarkets as fresh ground Arabica coffee is from
chicory!
And everything pancetta does better than bacon, guanciale does better in spades. Good as
they both are, even in its un-cured state, pig jowl has a stronger, more distinctive flavour than
pancetta. And slow-cured, the flavour is sublime.
Since the methods for curing them are fairly similar, we'll confine our attentions here to
guanciale.
205
Like all the best dry-cured meats, there are basically five key ingredients in a successful
guanciale cure: the quality of the meat; the seasonings used; the curing, hanging and drying
process and conditions; the degree of control exercised over them; ... and patience! (For
patience you can equally read "time". As a general observation, the longer the time during
which the meat hangs, dries and ripens the better the flavour!).
While some breeds of pig are preferred over others for guanciale, you're pretty safe buying
your jowl from a reputable butcher, and specifying what you want to do with your purchase.
Look for a jowl that has a good depth of meat and fat, rather than a skinny, relatively leaner
cut. Tell the butcher to leave the skin on. And buy only certified pork to minimise any risk of
trichinella infestation.
As a further precaution against trichinosis, we'd recommend using a seasoning cure containing
nitrites and salt in a controlled, premixed ratio. The cures are readily available from good
butchers. Other seasoning ingredients could include juniper berries, coriander powder, garlic
or onion powder, cayenne pepper, dried nutmeg, oregano, sage, salt and sugar.
A fairly standard recipe for one largish jowl could contain:
5 parts table salt;
¼ part seasoning cure;
1 part onion or garlic powder;
¼ part crushed juniper berries;
¼ part cayenne pepper;
1 part of an equal mix of dried oregano, thyme, sage, and coriander;
3 parts brown sugar;
Enough muslin or cheesecloth to wrap twice around the jowl;
Butcher's string and a darning needle.
If the dry ingredients are significantly different sizes, put them through a blender or grinder to
make the mix reasonably homogenous.
The jowl needs a corrosion resistant container (glass, plastic, stainless steel or glazed-ware),
with a lid, into which the jowl fits snugly.
When you've got everything ready:
Wipe the jowl with a cloth soaked in vinegar;
Thoroughly mix the seasoning ingredients together, and massage them into the jowl, so that all
surfaces of the meat and fat are covered;
Place the jowl into the container, flesh side down, and pack any remaining seasoning into and
206
around the jowl;
Put the lid on the container and refrigerate it from 7 to 9 days, rotating the jowl at least once a
day (and reapplying the seasoning mix if necessary);
After the curing time is over, remove the jowl and wash off any remaining cure;
Wipe again with a cloth soaked in vinegar, to minimise the risk of mould, and pat dry;
Wrap the muslin or cheese cloth twice around the jowl, and sew the free edge of the cloth
tightly;
Hang the jowl to dry for a minimum of 3 weeks and as much as four months – if you can wait
that long! – in a cool, breezy, place with a good circulation of air (if you make more than one
jowl at a time, the wait for the next batch won't seem nearly as long!);
When your jowls are finally cured, you may well find on unwrapping them that they are
covered in a layer of mould. Providing the jowl doesn't smell positively bad, the mould is not
To store, either cut into pieces; wrap in brown paper and cling wrap and store in the
refrigerator, or if you have a really cool, dry place, protected from insects, rodents and birds,
leave hanging as a single piece and cut slices off the jowl as you need them.
Photo: Pig Jowls in the Pantry by A. Drauglis: Flickr Creative Commons

In paper thin slices the guanciale can be used like black forest ham as one of the best
sandwich fillings you'll ever taste. Or you can eat it, like ham or salami, as part of a tray of
mezze or antipasti. Cube it and use it in a pasta carbonara or amatriciana.
Or make it the keynote ingredient in a guanciale pizza.
207
Photo: Pig Jowl Pizza by Carly Lesser & Art Drauglis (Carly & Art): Flickr Creative
Commons
And enjoy!
208
Instructions rather than Explanations!)
Photo: The Simplest Workflow Diagram Ever by doryfour: Flickr Creative Commons
HOW IT WORKS...
As alluded to above, we're aware that some readers are more concerned about the "How" than
the "Why". So in this PART 9 we've summarised, in Keynote Headings, the nitty-gritty gist of
the Parts preceding it.
We hope what follows will be useful both for those who want to get right into the nuts and
bolts of what to do (without having to wade through any "fluff or stuff"!) and also for those
who have read the preceding Parts 1 to 7, and want to have an easy-to-implement summary of
what they contain.
EQUIPMENT:
(For a detailed discussion on the various types of food smoking equipment, the relevant merits
and shortcomings of each, and contact details for some of the leading equipment suppliers in
the field, see Part 2, above). What follows is an abstract and summary of that information:
- Key Equipment Characteristics:
209
Look for the following features in any smoker you buy – and keep them in mind for any smoker
you build for yourself:
1. a significant distance between the firebox and the food to be smoked;
2. ideally, whether home-made or store-bought, your smoker should have an adjustable
firebox, or some other means of ensuring the constant, moderate temperatures necessary for
really successful smoking;
3. other mechanical or digital means of regulating the temperature of the heat source;

4. the shape and construction of the smoker itself to maintain heat, contain smoke and
provide a good smoke draft; and in particular:
a. the positioning of the chimney or smoke outlet;
b. the use of baffles and other means of directing the flow of the smoke;
c. a facility to view progress of the food cooking/smoking process without losing too much
heat or smoke; and
d. insulation in box, cabinet or vault smokers, in order to maintain a consistent heat inside the
smoker when there are fluctuations in outdoor temperatures, or when it rains or snows;
5. a really well fitting door or lid to the smoke chamber – one which remains well-fitting no
matter how many times the smoker is used;
TIP: Smokers used on the competition circuit HAVE to be built rugged! It may cost a bit
more, but if you want a smoker which will give long, reliable service, use on the competition
circuit is a fairly compelling form of testimonial.
210
- General Observations on Equipment:
Price isn't necessarily the best arbiter. Many of the lower end box smokers sold in the mass
outlet stores can actually be inferior to the better vertical water smokers at a comparable, and
sometimes even a lower price.
The major advantage of vertical smokers is that they take up very little space. This makes
them ideally suited to tightly defined areas like apartment balconies, loft gardens and small
patios.

When buying a smoker-box, ensure, firstly, that the perforations in the lid are neither too
numerous, nor too large, and secondly, that the metal used to construct the box is substantial. If
smoke billows out too quickly, it can yield acrid results. And thin gauge metal heats up too
quickly, and develops hot spots. Solidly-forged cast iron trays are ideal.
211
Even where there's backyard space sufficient for a large pit or box smoker, many smoked food
aficionados have a stove-top smoker as well, for the quick 'n easy, one-meal, convenience it
offers.

Stovetop smokers work best with a single charge of smoke chips or dust (to avoid heat loss).
Varying the type of wood used partly gets around this limitation. (Reference to our table of
smoking woods, above, will show which woods give hotter or cooler coals, and thinner or
denser smoke).
When buying a stove-top smoker, look for one where the sawdust or wood chips in the bottom
of the container are separated from the food in the top of it by a tray or baffle which collects
the drippings from the food being smoked, and also serves as a means of distributing the smoke
evenly through the gap formed between the baffle and the inner walls of the container.
Ensure your stovetop smoker has a well-sealing lid both to improve smoke-infusion of the food
and also to avoid too much smoke circulating through the kitchen.
212
When using a stovetop smoker ensure that you use the extractor fan on your stove, and place
the smoker as directly under it as possible.
"Run in" your smoker by firing it up (with smoke!) a couple of times before you first use
food in it. This will burn off any paint, oxidants, plating or other chemical residues left over
from the manufacturing process.
When using a stovetop smoker with a gas or an electric ring, distribute the dust over the bottom
of the smoker so it's concentrated over the burners underneath it
If you have a flat-top, glass or ceramic-topped stove, check the manufacturer's instructions to
ensure that you can use a utensil such as a smoker with an under-surface that covers more than
the area of the heating element with which it is in contact.
Unless you intend grilling AND hot-smoking or barbecuing AND cold smoking on a regular
basis, you may be better off with a smoker which handles one of these functions exclusively
and well, than with a "combination" unit.
A "one-case-fits-all" device, because it has to cater for the highest heat levels needed by
grilling, will generally be over-engineered for hot-smoking and even more so for cold-
smoking. Covering all your bets, while notionally appealing, can be an unnecessarily
expensive option – although there are some very good multi-purpose devices on the market.
FOOD:
(For a more detailed discussion on the different types of food which lend themselves to food
smoking, and the Specific Considerations and basic recipes which apply to each category,
please see Part 7, above). What follows is an abstract and summary of that information:
- General recommendations:
Here is a list of General Recommendations which apply to all barbecued foods:
Bacterial Infection: Harmful bacteria thrive in a moist environment at temperatures below
70 C (around 160 F). To be on the safe side, therefore, with barbecuing and hot smoking, it's
important to ensure that temperatures are maintained at least 10% above this level, which in
most case is just above the level that food will register inside when done. (The rule is
different with cold smoking where bacterial spoilage is managed by salting and drying the food
213
being processed, and much lower temperatures can be employed);
Importance of having a reliable thermometer: When grilling, it's generally enough to

measure the temperature of the inside of the food. Barbecuing and hot-smoking, however,
require that temperatures be measured in the smoke chamber itself. Where the chamber
stretches over some distance, two thermometers are often recommended – one at either end.
And for the most accurate readings, it's preferable to have a probe extending into, as opposed
to simply attaching the thermometer to the surface of, the chamber;
Photo River Country

Cold Smoking vs Hot Smoking and Barbecue: Hot-smoking and barbecuing provide a
generous amount of latitude in regard to temperature "spikes" providing they are short in
duration; whereas a sudden spike in temperature when cold-smoking can be disastrous. Some
chefs allow their barbecues to go as high as 120°C to 150°C (250°F to 300°F). This isn't
generally recommended, but there could be an argument for it in the case of really thick cuts of
meat which are intrinsically tender, and which require neither a long period of smoking for
tenderness, nor a particularly assertive infusion of smoke;
What to do if you don't have useful controls: Controls which automatically regulate
smoking time, temperature and smoke density are invaluable, but the basics as practised by our
forefathers still hold good, albeit they are less reliable and require more work, viz: varying the
number of logs in a fire which is (preferably) located some distance away from the smoke
chamber, using different fuels to provide differing degrees of heat, and providing some means
of regulating the draft to draw the smoke over the food being processed. (This could be as
simple as lifting one corner of a piece of burlap forming the lid of a barrel smoker!);
214
to vary the cooking time and subtract a few minutes to compensate for a higher heat;
The effects of weather: Sun, cold, rain and wind all have a significant effect on cooking
temperatures in all but the most sophisticated of smokers. Smoker temperatures rise on a hot
day, particularly if the smoker is in the sun for any part of the smoking process. Cold, cloudy
days cause a significant temperature drop, and wind can affect venting and air circulation in
the smoke chamber. Preventative measures include placing the smoker in a position where
there's relatively constant shade, and aligning it so that the vents are correctly positioned in
relation to the wind;
Photo: weather-icon-set_500x500 by Ilya Sedykh (Schmector): Flickr Creative Commons

De-frosting or de-refrigerating: In order to ensure consistent, even cooking, it's important,
before placing it in the smoker, to bring food taken out of the freezer or refrigerator up to room
temperature. Because relatively low heats are employed in the smoking process, there's a real
danger of bacterial infection if the core of a large joint or a thick chunk of fish starts frozen and
never reaches the 70 to 82 C (160 to 180 F) necessary to kill off the bacteria;
Drip pans and fat: Fat is something of a double-edged blessing in barbecue. You don't want
it to drip onto naked coals because of the possibility of flaring, and the danger of carcinogens
being released onto the food as a result. On the other hand, fat is a natural basting agent. The
solution is to provide a drip pan, which collects fat which is not absorbed as a natural baste,
and prevents it from catching fire. It follows that meat like brisket should be placed onto the
grid fat side up. Any fat which hasn't been shed during the cooking process can be cut off
before serving;
Searing: Certain meats, particularly those that are intrinsically tender like fillet (tenderloin)
and which require relatively short cooking times, should be seared before smoking. It's
important to sear all surfaces of the meat in a sizzling hot cast-iron frying pan or skillet, with
the addition of a few drops of oil;
215
Photo: Searing the Porterhouse Steak by Naotake Murayama (naotakem): Flickr Creative
Commons
Dry meats: Meats which are intrinsically dry, like turkey breast, leg of wild boar, and other
venison benefit from the injection of moistening liquids into a number of different places deep
in the meat itself. Use a strained marinade, or a specially prepared injection liquid, consisting
of a mixture of oils and liquid, and move the injection needle around gently as the fluid is
introduced in order to ensure it has been well and evenly distributed in the flesh;
Photo Weston
Mops, Bastes and Sauces: There's no real necessity for mops and bastes in a smoker where
the seal is so good that moisture naturally released from the food is contained in the smoke
chamber. The same applies in large measure to vertical water smokers.
Unused remnants of mops and bastes can profitably be used in sauces, but it is essential, in
order to avoid bacterial transference, that the mop or baste is vigorously boiled before being
incorporated into the sauce.
Safety: Electricity and liquids are not good bed mates! The electric heating element in some
high-end electric smokers is sufficiently well insulated that mops and bastes can be safely
applied to food in the smoke chamber, but if in doubt the rule is never to apply a mop or baste
during smoking in a smoker that operates on electricity.
216
Food used for smoking is better used fresh. This is particularly true of fish. Frozen meats
can be thawed for smoking if all air has been excluded from them during storage, preferably by
using vacuum sealing equipment in the process, but thawing frozen fish seldom gives the same
level of firm, flavoursome end product as when fresh fish is used;
Birds may be smoked whole, halved or quartered.
Favoured cuts from both domestic and game animals include the ribs and the hams.
The breasts of larger birds, such as ducks, geese and turkeys, may be filleted and individually
smoked.
Whole fish, fowl and animals should be eviscerated, and the body cavities thoroughly
cleaned.
Game animals should be skinned before smoking, and birds plucked.
As a general rule, leave the skin on all poultry before smoking them. The skin acts like an
"organic foil", keeping the flesh of the bird moist, and the sub-cutaneous fat provides a useful
natural baste.
If you want to crisp up the skin of birds cooked in the smoker, you'll need to do this after
smoking.
217
Scale fish, but leave the skin on.
Some fish, like northern pike and 'cuda, both of which are esteemed smoked food, have a
strongly aromatic skin, and should be both skinned and filleted before smoking.
Photo: Northern Pike by wormbumper: Flickr Creative Commons

When smoking fish on trays, arrange them skin-side down.
Smoke very small fish "in the round", by "gibbing" them where the viscera, including the
gills, are pulled out of a small cut made just below the gills, leaving the stomach uncut. Using
a pair of sharp nail scissors, nick the end of the alimentary canal through the anal vent before
pulling the viscera out as described.
Whole fish, birds and large cuts of meat like hams can be suspended on S-shaped hooks from
bars spanning the interior of the smoker.
Whole birds and joints of meat can generally be hung regardless of whether hot- or cold-
smoking is employed.
Hang fish through the gills or eye sockets, to avoid the hooks tearing out at some stage in the
smoking process.
Butterflying fish is preferred for hot-smoking (although it can be used for cold-smoking, as
well).

Butterfly by splitting the fish along the back to just one side of the backbone (or both), leaving
218
the belly intact so that it acts as a sort of hinge when the fish is opened. Use two hooks to
keep the fish open, one through each side of the fish just below the bony plate just behind the
gill opening.
Alternatively, the cross bars spanning the inside of the smoker may be provided with a series
of spikes, projecting from the sides of the bars, on which the butterflied fish is suspended,
opened up so that all the flesh, inside and out, is exposed to the smoke.
Butterflied fish may also be smoked laid flat on trays. In this case, run two long metal
skewers lengthwise down the fish, starting just under the bony plate of the pectoral fin, to keep
it open, and then lay it, skin down, on the tray or rack.

(For a more detailed discussion on the different methods of food smoking with particular
reference to conventional hot-smoking and cold smoking methods, see Parts 2 and 4 above).
What follows is an abstract and summary of that information:
- Hot Smoking:
To both cook and flavour food, use a hot smoking process (the "quick" method) with
temperatures ranging between 70 and 105 degrees Centigrade (160 to 220 degrees
Fahrenheit).
Whichever smoking method you use, consistently good, home food smoking requires at least
two reliable constants: a controlled heat, and a controlled volume and distribution of wood
smoke. Saving on the technical gizmos to help you do this could prove to be false economy!
To prevent flaring, a tray of water should be placed under the food, which also keeps it moist.
While some of the equipment used for hot-smoking and barbecuing can be adapted for cold-
smoking, much of it cannot. Equally, the lower heats required for cold-smoking mean that
many of the materials used in cold-smokers would be totally inappropriate for hot-smoking and
barbecuing. One of relatively few completely multi-purpose setups commercially available is
the Bradley smoke generator/cold smoke adapter/cabinet arrangement, below.
219
Keep a watch on things for the first few cold-smokes until you develop familiarity and a feel
for your equipment.
When brining for the hot-smoking process, don't immerse the fish or meat in the brine solution
for too long. Taken to extremes, you run the risk of the flesh becoming soft and "pulpy".
To hot-smoke fish, use a double-brining approach. Once all blood, membranes and viscera
have been scraped away, wash the fish and immerse it in a brine solution containing one cup of
salt to five litres (approximately 1 gallon) of water. Hot water may be used to speed up the
absorption of the salt by the water, but make sure it has cooled completely before soaking the
fish in it.
Rinse the fish in fresh water after they come out of the brine and then dry the fish for two to
three hours by hanging them (preferably on a drying rack like the one described in PART 10,
below) in the shade where they are cool, and in a draught or breeze. A shiny glaze on the
surface of the fish will tell you when they're dried enough, at which point they can be placed in
the smoke container.
Use a low temperature (about 43 to 49 C or 110 to 120 F), with a moderate degree of smoke
for the first three to four hours, then bring the temperature up to a constant 70 to 82 C (160 to
180 F) for the next three to four hours, during which a dense cloud of smoke is maintained. At
the end of this time, the fish should be completely hot-smoked and cooked.
To dry-salt, start by thoroughly washing the fish or meat to be smoked. The secret is not to dry
the food completely, but to dry-salt the flesh side of fish, and both sides of meat or skinned fish
fillets, while the flesh is still moist.
The amount of salt to apply depends on the thickness of the flesh being salted, and a good rule
of thumb is to allow about 1mm (about 1/16 of an inch) of salt to every 75mm (3 inches) of
flesh.
Layer the salt evenly, and when it has been completely absorbed by the flesh (generally
about 45 minutes to an hour) the food is ready for smoking.
220
Air dry the salted fish or meat, after dry-salting or brining, until a thin, shiny skin is formed,
after which it can be smoked in a dense smoke environment for seven to eight hours at a
constant temperature of between 70 to 82 C (160 to 180 F).
Set aside a piece of meat, fish or fowl for tasting at various times during the smoking process.
Choose a smaller rather than a larger piece, because if something is going amiss this will show
up on a small piece quicker than on a large one.
- Cold Smoking:
Cold smoking, as its name implies, does not rely on cooking. The food is cured, rather than
cooked, by drying it at a temperature of approximately 32 C (90 F) over a prolonged period,
with the exact time determined partly by the nature of the food being smoked, partly by the
density or otherwise of the smoke itself, and partly by the amount of salt and other seasonings
used.
Cold-smoking essentially requires that the firebox is significantly distanced from the food in
the smoking chamber – far enough away for the smoke to be cool to the touch as it is passed
over the food.
As a general rule of thumb, the food to be cold-smoked should be at least a metre and a half
(about four or five feet) away from a wood fire (more if logs as opposed to chunks are used)
and at least sixty centimetres (approximately two and a half feet) away if chips or sawdust are
used.
For cold-smoking, the vents regulating the circulation and flow of smoke should be opened up
rather more to induce a cool, steady draft of smoke-rich air. Caution should be exercised,
however, as opening the vents too much can generate excessive heat and flaming.
Ventilation needs to be carefully adjusted, particularly for cold-smoking, so that the logs,
chunks, chips or sawdust used for smoke generation smoulder and smoke without flaming.
As with hot-smoking, where brine is used a double-brining approach is recommended for
cold-smoking fish. Eviscerate and clean them thoroughly, then immerse the fish for about 30
minutes in a brine solution comprising one cup of salt to 5 litres (approximately a gallon) of
fresh water. If the water is heated to aid absorption of the salt, make sure it is absolutely cold
before the fish is submerged in it, then leach for about thirty minutes to remove most of the
blood.
Then immerse the fish for about twelve hours in a second brine solution in which are
combined:
- 5 litres (+- 1 gal) water;
- 4 cups salt;
- 2 cups brown sugar;
221
- 2 tablespoons crushed black pepper;
- 2 tablespoons crushed dried bay leaves; and
- 2 tablespoons crushed dried oregano.
Do not wash the fish before smoking, but drain and dry them thoroughly. Drying them is very
important. If they are too wet they will steam, with the attendant risk of their becoming soft,
and even mushy.
To dry-salt fish, first eviscerate and clean the fish, then immerse them in a brine solution
comprising one cup of salt to 5 litres (approximately a gallon) of cold, fresh water. Remove
the fish after about 30 minutes, and dry or drain off all surplus water.
Fill a shallow wooden or plastic box (not metal!) with enough salt to be able to thoroughly
dredge the fish, and lift each fish out of the box with as much salt as readily adheres to it.
With whole, thick fish, we additionally sprinkle as much salt into the inner body cavity of the
fish as readily adheres to the body lining.
Photos (l to r): Salt the salmon with rock sea salt; and Rub the salt inside the salmon; both by
Kai Hendry: Flickr Creative Commons
Layer the salted fish evenly in a second wooden or plastic box, scattering a very thin film of
salt between each layer. We like ground or coarse salt for this part of the process, because
we find the flavour less intense than with table salt, and it's accordingly easier to avoid over-
salting.
Large fish, and fish "in the round" should be left in the salt for about ten to twelve hours. If
the fish have been split, filleted or chunked, and therefore present more surface area to the salt,
the time can be reduced to between four and eight hours.
222
Once salted, the fish can be rinsed in fresh water and left to dry in a cool, shady, breezy
place until a shiny skin or film has formed on all exposed surfaces. Generally, this will take
about three to four hours.
This step should under no circumstances be omitted! If the fish are placed in the smoker
before the shiny skin has developed, they will be too moist and not only will there be a
tendency for the fish to steam and become "pulpy" in the smoke, but they will lose their
colour and pick up an unappealing grey tinge.
Birds for dry-salting should be plucked and eviscerated, and then packed close together in an
earthenware crock, plastic bath or wooden barrel. Do not use a metal container.
Submerge the birds (and this also applies to hams and other large cuts of meat) in a brining
solution in which about one and a half kilograms (+- 3 pounds) of salt, 750 grams (or one and
a half pounds) of brown sugar, and 45g (one and a half ounces) of potassium nitrate (cooking
quality saltpetre) are combined with 10 litres (or 2 gallons) of fresh, cold water. Weigh the
birds down to prevent them floating to the surface, with a round wooden cutting board may,
suitably weighed down with a weight such as a tile or a half brick.
Leave to soak for between six to nine hours, then dry and smoke the birds.
Ensure fish or meat to be smoked is thoroughly dry before it is placed in the cold smoke
chamber. Bringing the fish or meat to the point where a thin, shiny skin can be observed on its
surface is your best guarantee that the drying process has been thoroughly carried out.
If you intend smoking foods on a fairly frequent basis, build a drying rack comprising a
wooden framework consisting of two lengths of timber about 3 metres (approximately 10 feet)
long, 50mm wide and 100 mm thick (2 inches by 4 inches). The two lengths should be about
300 mm (15 inches) apart, with a crosspiece at each end.
Plans are shown later in the book.

The essence of cold smoking is to use the smoke to supplement the drying action of the salt.
223
The smoke should be just warm, not hot, and the temperature, unlike the hot-smoking process,
should be held constant at no more than 32 C (90 F), from the beginning of the smoke until the
end.
How long you'll need to cold-smoke fish depends on how long you'll want to keep them. As a
rule of thumb, for two weeks and less the smoke time should be twenty four hours; up to five
days for a longer shelf life.
A relatively "thin" smoke cloud should be generated for the first 12 hours, if the fish are to be
smoked for twenty-four hours; and for the first twenty-four hours if the planned smoking time is
longer.
Check the temperature regularly. A good, industrial-quality thermometer is an
indispensable smoking tool, but if for any reason you don't have one, a good guide is to hand-
test the interior of the smoke chamber. If the air feels distinctly warm to the touch, the
temperature is too high.
After the first twelve or twenty-four hours of light smoking, a dense smoke should be
maintained for the balance of the curing period.
Cold smoking need not be a continuous, uninterrupted process, but once started the process
should be concluded as fast as possible.

(For a more detailed discussion on the different methods of building your own hot- and cold-
smoking equipment, together with plans and construction details, see PART 10, below). What
follows is an abstract and summary of that information:
Putting together your own smoker, barbecue pit or smokehouse at home not only saves money,
but it is intensely rewarding and fulfilling, as well. (We show you how).
- General Observations:
For the main smoke chamber and firebox components, metal drums are easily obtainable, at
little or no cost.
Grids can be scavenged out of discarded refrigerators or stoves, or welded up out of
engineering footplate mesh. And appliance repair shops will often be happy to have you take
unwanted refrigerator and stove grids off their hands for nothing.
224
Photo: BBQ Grill by Ian Stannard (Silly Little Man): Flickr Creative Commons
Drawer handles from the local hardware store can serve as handles for the smoke box lid.
Remember to wear an oven glove before attempting to grab the handle!
Wood stove replacement parts, like chimney flues and bends, can be obtained from stove
sales outlets or from most large hardware stores and chains.
Photo: Flexible Chimney Flue by Chris RubberDragon (Rubber Dragon): Flickr Creative
Commons
Don't neglect to "burn in" the drum of your homebuilt smoker, and ensure that the drum has not
contained any toxic substances or chemicals. Even a trace of some of the most poisonous
toxins is enough to taint food and make its consumer seriously ill.
To remove old paint and scale from the inside of the drum prior to re-painting it, you can sand
it down, or for a really thorough pre-preparation, take it to a shot- or sand-blasting shop to
clean it up inside and out.
Paint your drum immediately it has been sanded or shot-blasted. Mild steel drums are
especially prone to rusting, particularly when they are exposed to progressive heating and
cooling. Sanding or shot-blasting your drum removes the zinc- or galvanised-plating which in
normal use acts as a rust inhibitor.
225
Refinish all surfaces with high temperature oven paint.
Ensure an even, easily regulated flow of smoke from the firebox into one end of the cooking
chamber and out of the other by way of a smokestack or vent.
Placing one or more baffles into the smoke chamber can significantly enhance smoke
circulation and temperature.
Mild steel corrodes much more quickly when exposed to excessive heat. To prevent the
bottom of a steel drum burning through, use a layer of fire bricks or sand between the fire and
the bottom of the drum. If the sand gets wet, replace it.
For longer, corrosion-free life, try to obtain a stainless steel drum.
Instead of a drum, use the carcass of a discarded appliance such as a steel refrigerator,
freezer, washing machine or range. Try to find an old-fashioned model, often double-skinned
in a more solid grade of metal, and with solidly hinged doors.
Where the appliance is insulated, take particular care to strip out all insulation – you don't
want insulation fibres floating around in the smoke cloud and impregnating the food!
Make sure every trace of plastics has been removed completely.
226
To build a permanent, brick-built barbecue pit or oven, you require lots of yard space.
A significant advantage of constructing a vertical smoker is that a vertical hinged door can be
provided to swing open horizontally, whereas in a horizontal smoker or pit the lid has to be
raised vertically. (This is one reason why an old-fashioned fridge carcass is such a
convenient DIY component for a smoke chamber – the door is already provided and correctly
hung!
Vault pits may also be provided with a series of shelves, rather akin to the shelves in a
vertical freezer or refrigerator, which can more easily be loaded and removed, and which
offer the facility of discretionally raising or lowering the food relative to the heat source.
In order to construct a vertical vault or cabinet-style smoker, build the smoke chamber of the
pit to shoulder height and above.
- Cold Smoking:
Containers for cold-smoking can be as simple as a wooden crate (avoid wood which has
resin in it, however!), an old wooden wine or pickling barrel, a 44-gallon (200 litre) metal
drum, suitably cleaned and refinished, or a discarded refrigerator, freezer, top-loader or other
retired metal appliance, from which every last trace of insulation and plastics have been
carefully removed.
Photos (l to r): SC5832 Crate, part 2 by Patrick Finnegan (vaxomatic); Bench and Barrel by
Valerie Everett; Stray Barrel by alisdair; and Kitchens from the Past by Larry Jacobsen
(ljguitar): Flickr Creative Commons
For the smoke in the smoke chamber to be cold enough (cool to the touch), the firebox needs to
be a significant distance from the smoke chamber. A section of flexible metal air conditioning
ducting or flue accomplishes this.
227
As alluded to earlier, the food to be cold-smoked should be at least a metre and a half (about
four or five feet) away from a wood fire (more if logs as opposed to chunks are used) and at
least sixty centimetres (approximately two and a half feet) away if chips or sawdust are
used.
A range of wood stove replacement parts – flues, baffles, firebox doors, dampers and the
like – can be obtained at relatively little cost and will add significantly to the degree of control
over your home-built cold smoker.
RECIPES:
(For a more detailed discussion and a list of basic recipes for seasonings, see Part 6, above
and also SEASONINGS, RUBS, PASTES, MARINADES, MOPS AND BASTES , below;
and for basic recipes for each major food type, see Part 7).
When you create a successful new recipe or cooking technique – WRITE IT DOWN! In detail!
SAFETY AND HYGIENE:

Harmful bacteria thrive in a moist environment at temperatures below 70 C (around 160 F).
To be on the safe side, therefore, with barbecuing and hot smoking ensure that temperatures are
maintained at least 10% above this level, which in most case is just above the level that food
will register inside when done.
228
The rule is different with cold smoking where bacterial spoilage is managed by salting and
drying the food being processed, and much lower temperatures can be employed.
Electricity and liquids are not good bed mates! The electric heating element in some high-end
electric smokers is sufficiently well insulated that mops and bastes can be safely applied to
food in the smoke chamber, but if in doubt the rule is never to apply a mop or baste during
smoking in an oven that operates on electricity.

(For a much more detailed discussion on BBQ seasonings, see part 6, which deals in
particular with food preparation for Barbecue). What follows is an abstract and summary of
that information:
This book is not pre-eminently a recipe book. (The next one, which you, the reader, are
invited to collaborate on, is!).
What we have done, instead, is to provide one or two "platform" recipes" for each category
of seasonings which, together with a comprehensive list of ingredients, will give you what you
need to get creative and build some exciting seasoning and flavouring recipes of your own.
Here is the list of ingredients which can feature in rubs, pastes, marinades, mops, bastes,
sauces and injection liquids. Most are mentioned in the stock recipes, and optional additions
229
to recipes, described in Part 6, above. The list by no means covers all possible ingredients: in
different combinations and permutations, though, it should prove more than adequate as a
palette for all but the Michelangelo's of smoked food artistry.
A Allspice; anise; anchovy paste; apple juice; apple;
B black pepper; brown sugar; bourbon; beer; butter; bell pepper; bay leaf; beef stock;
basil;
C coarse salt; chilli powder; cayenne pepper; celery salt; cinnamon; coffee; cumin; curry
powder; corn oil; cilantro; cider vinegar; cider; chicken stock; Coca-Cola; celery;
coconut; cherries (dried); cranberries, canned; cranberries, fresh; cranberries, dried; currant
jelly; capers; cloves, ground;
D Dry mustard; dill;
E Egg;
F Five-spice; fish sauce; Fennel seeds;
G Garlic powder; ginger, ground; ginger, fresh; garlic cloves; garlic flavoured oil; ginger;
ground cloves;
H Herbs (mixed); honey;
K Ketchup;
L Lemon juice; lime juice; lemon; lemon grass;
M Mace; molasses; mustard, dry; mustard, Dijon; mayonnaise; Maple syrup; mint jelly;
mint, fresh; marsala wine; mushrooms;
N Nutmeg;
O Onion powder; onion salt; oregano; onion flakes; olive oil; onion; orange juice; orange
zest; orange liqueur; olives; oil, olive; oil, vegetable; oil, peanut; oil, sesame; oil, garlic-
flavoured;
P Paprika; peanut oil; pineapple, canned; prunes; parsley; peppercorns; pesto; peanut
butter; pickling liquid; pepper, black; pepper, bell; pepper, cayenne;
R Red wine; rum; rosemary; raspberry vinegar;
S salt, coarse; salt, table; salt, celery; salt, onion; sugar, white; sugar, brown; sugar,
Turbinado; sage; soy; scallions; sherry; stout; seafood stock; stock, beef; stock, chicken;
stock, seafood;
T Turbinado; thyme; tequila; turmeric; Tabasco; tomatoes; tomato paste; tangerines;
tamarind; tomato juice;
230
V Vegetable oil; vodka; vermouth; vinegar, wine; vinegar, cider; vinegar, raspberry;
W White pepper; Worcestershire sauce; white wine; wine vinegar; wine, red.
Don't under-season with rubs! It pays to be generous, rather than stingy, applying a good,
even coating of rub, and shaking off anything that doesn't stick to the food. A lot of the raw
"edge" of the seasoning is moderated in the smoking process.
Good seasoning practice is to wrap the food in cling wrap, or a freezer bag, after the rub has
been applied, and refrigerate it for anything between an hour and a day, depending on the type
and size of the food, with small items generally getting the shorter time, and big cuts of meat or
whole fish somewhat longer.
To make a rub, mix all the ingredients together by shaking them in a plastic bag.
If the rub seasoning particle sizes are widely different, put them through a small electric coffee
or spice grinder.
Photo: Grinders with Coffee by Randen Pederson (chefranden): Flickr Creative Commons
To turn a dry rub into a paste, combine some of the dry seasonings with a liquid, oil or fat.
Animal fats, because of their tendency to congeal as they cool, are harder to handle, but a wide
variety of oils – ranging from stock favourites like olive and canola oil, to exotics like flax-
and cotton-seed oils, sesame and peanut oils – can be used.
231
In place of oils, use puréed herbs, garlic, ginger, fenugreek and other root vegetables as the
paste "binding agent".
If thinner liquids such as stock, fruit juices, wine and beer are used in pastes, add something
oily to them to help them to adhere better.
For a distinctly Asian flavour, incorporate liquids like soy sauce (often used in substitution for
salt), sake, rice vinegar and fish sauce into your pastes.
Use pastes rather than rubs on foods with subtle or delicate flavours, simply because pastes
generally are less assertively flavoured. Use a paste, rather than a rub, for pre-seasoning fish
and seafood varieties, and poultry.
Like dry rubs, apply pastes over all surfaces of the food being prepared, and then work or
massage the paste into it.
Make the consistency of your pastes thin enough to spread easily and evenly onto the food, on
the one hand, but gooey enough to stick to it, on the other.
Once the paste has been applied and worked into the food, refrigerate the food in cling wrap,
from as little as half an hour to a day, depending on size and thickness of the food being
prepared.
It's not generally appreciated, but milk and yoghurt, because of their lactic acid content, are
categorised in the context of marinades as acids, rather than oils.
Use oil rather than animal fat in marinades, because the latter tend to coagulate as the marinade
cools or is refrigerated.
Dry meats, like turkey breast, leg of wild boar, and other venison cuts benefit from the
injection of moistening liquids deep into the meat itself.
232
Photo Weston
Use a strained marinade, or a specially prepared injection liquid, and move the injection
needle around gently as the fluid is introduced in order to ensure it has been well and evenly
distributed in the flesh.
For fatty foods allow a greater proportion of acids in your marinades, and use more oil for
lean dry foods like white fish and chicken breasts.
The flavours imparted by spices and herbs tend to be diluted as a result of their infusion into a
liquid, so go quite strong on their quantities. Crush them, or additionally inject them using a
cooking or fluid injection syringe.
Because of the acid component of the marinade, select containers which the acid will not
attack. Use stainless steel or glass for mixing. Avoid aluminium or copper. Pre-test plastic
t to ensure it doesn't impart a plastic-y taste.
Once the marinade has been blended, refrigerate it in sealable plastic freezer or Zip-Loc
bags.
Different foods require different approaches to marinating. As a general rule, use less acid
and spices, and a shorter time, for light-flavoured foods like fish.
Use a more robust, acidic and strongly spice-flavoured composition for heavily flavoured
foods like beef and wildfowl.
As to how long to marinate, for most sea foods as little as 20 to 30 minutes is often enough,
while at the other extreme for large cuts of beef, could allow anything up to a day or a day and
a half.
Don't apply marinades for too long. They don't penetrate much below the surface of the food
being prepared, and the meat can easily become soft and pulpy.
Use a plastic bag in which to marinate and turn the food at least once or twice during the
marinating process. Using a bag also means that as little as half as much marinade is needed
as would be required for an open dish or tray.
Use a blender to make the consistency of your marinade as uniform as possible. Dribble oil
233
into vinegar when blending a marinade, and then blend in the herbs and spices.

Refrigerate or freeze unused marinade and then use it in sauces or gravies.
Discard used, leftover marinade. If you do decide to use it, as a baste or mopping liquid,
make sure that it is first boiled vigorously to kill off any bacteria transferred from the food
being treated to the containers in which the marinade is stored.
Not all smoking equipment lends itself to mopping or basting, and some foods benefit more
from the process than others. Smokers like vertical, or water smokers, for example generally
create a moister smoke environment than pits or larger cabinets, and opening them in order to
mop or baste can lose valuable heat.
Because mops are wet, and because they are typically applied during, rather than before or
after, the smoking process, avoid them altogether when using smokers employing electric
heating plates or elements.
Photo: Play Safe or YOU WILL DIE by Paul Downey (psd): Flickr Creative Commons FCC
There's no real necessity for mops and bastes in a smoker where the seal is so good that
moisture naturally released from the food is contained in the smoke chamber. The same
applies in large measure to vertical water smokers.
234
Stove-top smokers, which in many respects double as steamers, generally should not be
opened at all during the smoke process – which generally means you won't mop or baste when
using them.
Mopping is also totally unsuitable for cold-smoking, where the whole purpose of the process
is to dry the food, not moisten it, and even with conventional hot-smoking, moist or oily foods
may well not be suitable candidates for mopping or basting.
Because you risk losing heat every time you open the lid of a smoker, mop or baste only when
you have to open the lid for some other pressing reason – to add more fuel, for example.
For particularly dry foods like white fish and poultry add a generous quantity of oil or butter
fat. For oilier foods add rather more acids like wine, vinegar or lemon juice.
Use a basting mop, rather than a brush, to slosh the liquid onto the food.
Photo: Seven hours in by mikedevlin: Flickr Creative Commons

Picking up bits of surface food during the mopping process is pretty much unavoidable, so in
order to minimise the risk of transferring bacteria from the food to the basting liquid, keep it at
a highish temperature while it is in use, and boil it vigorously if it is going to be re-used.
Mops can be stored, preferably in a glass container, in the refrigerator for up to a week.
Sauces can be created from a fresh start, or they can form the end of a chain starting with rubs
or pastes, and progressing through marinades, mops and bastes.
Because the sauce is applied at the end of the smoking process, make sure, if any of the
preceding mixes are used, that they are boiled vigorously so as to avoid transference of
bacteria from an earlier stage to a later one.
As a general rule, avoid thin sauces! Make them nice and gooey!
"Reduce" your sauce to as little as one third of its starting volume.
Add sugary/sticky ingredients, like honey, canned pineapple, apricot jam or jelly, and peanut
235
butter.
Use (with discretion!) a thickening agent like cornflour.
Use beer and stout to give body to sauces, and spirits like Vodka, Bourbon, and Brandy to
impart a rich, patrician flavour. (Practically all of the alcohol is burnt off during the reduction
process, but the remaining flavour definitely adds character and pizzazz).

(For a detailed discussion on the varying woods commonly used in food smoking, their
particular merits and shortcomings, and how to use them, see Part 3, above). What follows is
236
an abstract and summary of that information:
Keep constantly on the look-out for wood-collecting opportunities – like fruit trees felled by a
nearby farmer, or a beech or oak tree chopped down by a neighbour.
Vary smoke intensities and exposure times by increasing smoke to brighten up bland-
flavoured foods (like store-bought chicken) and reducing it in order to avoid overwhelming
subtle flavours like venison or wild birds.
For a light smoke flavour make sure that a light smoke cloud is issuing from the smokehouse;
similarly, if the cloud is too sparse, you'll know it's time to add more wood!
When using wood chips first soak them in water, beer or wine (for about 10 to 30 minutes)
before placing them on the charcoal or gas, in order to slow down the rate of combustion and
also to produce an acceptable amount of smoke.
Photo: Wood Chips – Chicken on a Can 022 by J Wynia: Flickr Creative Commons
Particularly in the case of gas grills put pre-soaked wood chips in a smoker box to prevent a
build-up of ash in the grill, and the risk that it will clog up the burners.
Photos (l to r): Wood Chips Soaking by Ted Sakshaug (tsakshaug) and Cast Iron Smoker Box
Char-Broil, a division of W.C.Bradley Co, Columbus, Georgia: Flickr Creative Commons
Use the right wood. The golden rule is never to use softwoods, resinous woods, or sawdust
that is contaminated with paint or varnish or from wood which has been treated against borer
237
infection.
Avoid, too, the use of wood scraps and chips which are scrounged from building sites or
general purpose joinery or cabinet works – you risk picking up nasties like paint, varnish,
borer repellents, glue and the like.
High levels of latent sap or resin common to softwoods make their smoke acrid and bitter to
the taste, and they should therefore be avoided.
Choose woods according to region. In the Southern States of America woods such as
hickory, sweet bay, palmetto, river mangrove and scrub and live oak are all highly esteemed.
Mesquite is a stock favourite in drier regions, and a particular favourite of many smoked fish
enthusiasts. In the West, Manzanita roots, alder, and vine maple are widely used, while oak,
maple, beech and hickory find favour in the North.
Keep a look-out for farmers or friends who are pruning or cutting out their fruit trees, and who
generally are only too happy to give away a few logs when asked. Remember, though, to air
dry them until all their moisture has been driven out.

Strip all bark and moss from wood used for smoking, as they impart a bitter flavour to the
food being smoked.
For smoke with a light, mild or sweet flavour use alder, apple, apricot, ash, birch, cherry,
cottonwood, crab-apple, grapefruit, guava, lemon, lilac, maple, mulberry, nectarine, orange,
peach, pear, plum, and willow, among others.
Woods burning very hot should be used for very short times, or mixed with other slower-
burning woods.
Hot-burning woods include acacia, ash, and mesquite. Oak and alder produce moderate
heat, and cooler burning woods include most of the fruit and nut varieties, with pecan a
238
particularly cool-burning candidate.
Where a combination of sustained heat and smoke is desirable, mix alder and oak, which
produce good coals, with other woods.
For Fish: Alder is the traditional wood for smoking salmon in the Pacific Northwest, while
ash has a light, distinctive flavour. Most of the fruit and nut woods impart a slightly sweeter –
but nonetheless very acceptable – flavour, particularly if mixed with a stronger flavoured
wood such as hickory.
For Pork: Almond, apple, apricot, birch, cherry, crab-apple, grapefruit, hickory, lilac, maple,
mulberry, nectarine, orange, peach, pear and plum are all good for pork.
Other Meats – Beef, Lamb, Veal and Venison: Oak and hickory provide the slightly more
robust flavour which beef, lamb and venison, in particular, require. Milder woods, such as the
fruit and nut woods, should be used for smoking veal, which has a very delicate flavour that
can easily be overwhelmed.
For Poultry: Alder, almond, apple, birch, cherry, crab-apple, grapefruit, lemon, lilac,
maple, mulberry, nectarine, orange, peach, pear and plum are all esteemed smoking woods for
poultry. For larger birds such as turkeys, mix them with a little hickory or oak.
Use whole logs for log-burning pits, and large cabinet or vault smokers.
Chunks, chips and sawdust work well with smaller units, and are often preferred because
they tend to make a richer, denser smoke and to smoulder relatively slower. They are also
readily available, bagged and clean, from specialist outdoor cooking supply stores.
To maintain a nice, even burn with logs or larger chunks, add a few charcoal briquettes to the
fire from time to time. One of the great merits of briquettes is that they burn for hours,
particularly when the fire is damped down, and can be pretty much left untended.
239
Alternatively, mix woods like hickory or maple, which create a good, rich smoke, with woods
like alder or oak which produce long-burning coals.
For larger chunks to be burned dry, like logs, it's preferable to have an offset firebox.
Without an offset firebox, chunks can tend to burn more unevenly, and therefore require more
watching.
Chips and smaller chunks of wood should be soaked for at least half an hour before placing
them on the fire, and preferably longer, to ensure they smoke rather than flame. Plain water
can be used, although many pitmasters claim that a better flavour is achieved by soaking in
beer or wine!
In smaller smokers, chips and chunks in combination work better than each on its own. You
can get a good head of smoke up quickly with the chips, but the heavier and denser chunks tend
to last much longer.
The uniform composition of wood pellets means that hot coals and flaring are pretty much
100% avoided. It also means that there's very little ash, and cleaning is generally a lot
simpler.
Buy only genuine, food quality, cooking pellets. Pellets used in food smoking should not be
confused with home heater pellets, which unlike cooking pellets are often made from resinous
woods like pine, and are bulked out with scrap lumber which often has been treated with toxic
chemicals, paints and dyes.
Sawdust is most frequently used, (sometimes with and sometimes instead of very small wood
chips) in stove-top smokers.
Photo: Remains of First Base by Natalie Maynor: Flickr Creative Commons

Use sawdust as a "booster" when you want temporarily to increase the density of the smoke
cloud in larger smokers.
Both lump charcoal pieces and charcoal briquettes are produced by excluding oxygen from the
240
combustion process. But whereas charcoal pieces are derived from whole logs and chunks,
generally without additives, briquettes are made from sawdust, and in order to ensure that the
sawdust binds together many manufacturers add various binders to the compressed dust.
Make sure your briquettes are made with an organic, food friendly binder (like vegetable
starch). (Poor quality briquettes often use additives like petroleum products, and should be
avoided at all costs)
Lump charcoal burns at a much higher, and less consistent, temperature than briquettes and is
best for grilling.
Good quality briquettes or wood pellets are best for smoking.
If you don't have access to briquettes, hand-pick lumps of charcoal of approximately the same
size, and scatter rather than heap them among the wood chunks or chips from which the smoke
is being generated.
When using sawdust in a stovetop smoker, don't use too much! As a rule of thumb, a
tablespoon of dust in the tray bottom is generally more than enough, and will prevent the food
from tasting bitter.
To start a conventional log fire lay a bed of kindling, under a stack of logs carefully arranged
so as to ensure a good flow of air around them. Err on having more rather than less kindling!
There's very little more frustrating than having one's kindling consumed before the logs it is
designed to light have caught!
While it's tempting to use synthetic, generally paraffin-based, fire-starters, there are many
"natural" fire starters available which don't pose the same risk of tainting the taste of the
food.
Photo Charbroil
Use a proprietary, metal, charcoal starter chimney, outside the smoker, to get charcoal
glowing quickly, and then distribute the lumps or briquettes in the smoker with tongs.
241
TEMPERATURES:
In order to kill some of the nasties it sometimes harbours, hot-smoke Pork to an internal
temperature of at least 70 C (160 F) – to be safe at above 82 C (180 F) and even as high as
100 C (210 F ) if the smoking time is relatively short.
The one and only time temperatures as high as 138 C or even 150 C (280 to 300 F) are
recommended for barbecue is when the cut of meat being smoked is tender enough not to need
long smoking, or when only a light smokiness is required. Pork and beef fillets, or a large leg
or lamb, or rare rump steaks, are examples.
Air temperature significantly affects smoking times. Try to keep the smoker out of the sun.
Position the smoker so wind doesn't create back-drafts and eddies through the venting.
In charcoal fires, specifically, a useful tip in controlling the typical bell-curve of heat build-up
is to light a small pile of maybe three or four briquettes or coals in the centre of the fire-bed,
and allow the fire to spread outward from this starter heap to a wider ring of unlit coals or
briquettes surrounding it.
When using a kettle grill as a smoker, stop the vents right down in order to starve the coals of
air and so control the temperature.
It's very important to use a reliable temperature gauge or thermometer, and refer to it often.
Whatever equipment you use, you'll need a reliable method of monitoring the temperature
(even more important in cold-smoking than in hot-smoking).
When grilling, it's generally enough to measure the temperature of the inside of the food.
Barbecuing and hot-smoking, however, require that temperatures be measured in the smoke
chamber itself. Where the chamber stretches over some distance, use two thermometers – one
at either end. And for the most accurate readings, use a probe extending into, as opposed to
simply attaching the thermometer to the surface of, the chamber.
242
Photo River Country
Hot-smoking and barbecuing provide a generous amount of latitude in regard to temperature
"spikes" providing they are short in duration; whereas a sudden spike in temperature when
cold-smoking can be disastrous. Some chefs allow their barbecues to go as high as 120°C to
150°C (250°F to 300°F). This isn't generally recommended, but there could be an argument
for it in the case of really thick cuts of meat which are intrinsically tender, and which require
neither a long period of smoking for tenderness, nor a particularly assertive infusion of smoke.
Controls which automatically regulate smoking time, temperature and smoke density are
invaluable. You can make do without them by varying the number of logs in a fire which is
(preferably) located some distance away from the smoke chamber, using different fuels to
provide differing degrees of heat , and providing some means of regulating the draft to draw
the smoke over the food being processed. (This could be as simple as lifting one corner of a
piece of burlap forming the lid of a barrel smoker!)
to vary the cooking time and subtract a few minutes to compensate for a higher heat.
243
Photos Cuisinart, EKCO-PAO* and CILIO
*PAO! Is a registered trademark of WKI Holding Company, Inc. used under permission by
World Kitchen, LLC.
(For a more detailed discussion on tools and accessories used in food smoking, together with
contact details for a range of leading suppliers in the field, see Part 5, above).
A representative list of the sort of tools and accessories a halfway serious food smoker
would require would include, for example:
Aprons;
Bamboo Steamers;
Barbecue Sprayers;
Basting Brushes;
Basting Mops;
Charcoal Starter Chimneys;
Chicken Beer Can Roasters;
Cleaning Tools;
Coffee or Spice Grinders;
Drip Pans;
Fire Tools;
Fish Lifters and Spatulas;
Griddles;
Hamburger Presses;
Heat Resistant Gloves;
Hooks;
Mincers and Meat Grinders;
Muffin Pans;
Pestles and Mortars;
Pot Sticker Presses;
244
Racks;
Rotisseries;
Sauce and Marinade Syringes or Injectors;
Sauce Pots;
Smokehouse Pans and Dishes;
Thermometers, Timers and Gauges;
Tongs;
Vacuum Packing and Sealing Machines;
Wire Grill Brushes...
and this is just a small selection!

(For a more detailed discussion on wilderness food smoking, see the latter part of Part 4,
above). What follows is an abstract and summary of that information:

Old campsites often offer enough in the way of discarded or castoff materials to cobble
together a workable, if primitive, smoker. Camps on the banks of lakes and ocean inlets can
be particularly rewarding, offering wooden crates, metal or wooden barrels, hatch covers,
245
grids and the like.
Photo: rusty barrel by Anthony (pfarrell95): Flickr Creative Commons

To smoke fish caught in the wild:
Butterfly the fish, by splitting along their backbones and leaving the belly intact as a sort of
"hinge". Clean and dry the fish, and then rub them with salt and pepper. Scoring the skin with
a series of cuts will help to thoroughly infuse the salt and seasoning.

Store the fish or meat overnight, in a cool place, and out of reach of predators in a suitable
container.
Hang the fish out to dry in the morning. Fashion hooks from discarded wire or the like, or
alternatively use sharpened sticks as skewers or hooks, making sure the fish remains
butterflied open.
While the fish are drying, start a fire in a shallow trench or pit, and build a good bed of
coals.
The illustrations, below, describe a useful approach to building an extempore
"smokehouse"...While the fish are drying, start a fire in a shallow trench or pit, and build a
good bed of coals. If convenient, it's helpful to build the fire close to a small, dead tree.
246
Straddle the coals with a suitable hanging rack, from which to suspend the fish, made from a
horizontal pole sitting in the forks of two uprights.
Now create a "hinge" in the trunk of the tree, by cutting almost, but not quite, through it, and
angle the tree, as shown, over the fire and rack. Use rope to form a "tent frame", or
alternatively lash a frame of green poles (with wire or with the green bark peeled from the
poles themselves). Hang the fish from the rack, so they are in the smoke rising from the fire.
To contain the smoke, roof the "tent" with a sheet of wetted burlap, canvas, corrugated card or
other materials which you've been able to scavenge in the camp site.
Alternatively, weave a "thatch" of green boughs as a roof. In this latter case, it's preferable to
use a non-coniferous tree as the resin in the pine needles can relatively more easily catch fire.
247
Smoking time will depend on the size and thickness of the fish or meat being smoked, on the
density of the smoke, and on the ability of the smokehouse to contain it. Allow anything
between six to twenty hours.
Ensure that the "tent" is wetted, or high enough from the fire to prevent it catching alight.
Green (deciduous) leaves can be scattered on the fire to increase the density of the smoke.
When the fish come out of the smoke, they should be cooled, and stored in a dry place. If they
are kept away from moisture, in a temperate climate, they should keep for up to a week, or
more.
DRY-AND SALT-CURING
Dry and salt cured foods are neither cooked, nor smoked, but simply salted and seasoned, and
then exposed to the air and dried.
They include gourmet delicacies – like Italian, Spanish and French cured hams (Prosciutto di
Parma, Jamon Serrano, Jambon de Bayonne, etc.), gourmet bacons (pancetta and guanciale),
and salamis.
248
Because they are neither smoked nor cooked, particularly in the case of pork products, a long
curing time is required to make them safe to eat. Also, the longer the cure time, the better and
more distinctive the flavour. Some Spanish hams are cured for up to five years!
Less complicated dry-cured foods which enjoy widespread popularity today, include jerky and
biltong).

Both foods are salted, seasoned and then dried. The chief difference between them is that
jerky is partially cooked, whereas biltong is simply air-dried in a draft of cool air.
Jerky is sweeter than biltong, which is generally thicker than jerky. And jerky is made from
lean meat, with little or no fat, while biltong often contains as much as 40%, or even 50% fat.
There are three basic methods of curing foods (other than smoking them) – dry curing, wet
curing and a combination of the two. Wet curing and combination dry and wet curing require
specialised equipment to pump brine into the meat.
For our purposes here we will confine our discussion to dry curing only – not only because it
does not require specialised equipment but because the end quality is superior.
As discussed earlier in the book, the bacteria which spoil meats and other foodstuffs require
moisture to live and grow. Salt (and also sugar), by removing water and other fluids from
249
inside the meat or fish being cured, dry out the food, and the process not only deprives the
bacteria of the moist conditions they need to develop, but also dries them out, as well.
The process used today differs little from that used from early Mediaeval times. The dry
curing mix is rubbed into the meat or fish to be cured, which is then layered and tightly pressed
in suitable containers and left for several days or even weeks to cure and ripen.
During this time the salt (and sugar, if used) dries out the meat or fish in the curing containers,
and the fluids which are drawn out of the meat trickle down to the bottom of the container in
which the curing process is taking place.
Traditionally, the container floor is provided with holes, through which the fluids can drain.
Alternatively the pieces of food packed in the container are rotated at regular intervals, with a
fresh dry-cure mix applied at each rotation.
Re-layering at regular intervals is necessary if the cure is to be uniform through all the meat
being processed.
If thin pieces of flesh are being cured, dredge them in seasoning salt, and shake the salt off
before layering the pieces in the container in which they are to be cured.
Photo: 2006-03-04-13-15 54 by WmJR: Flickr Creative Commons

With larger pieces, however, like hams and shoulders, massage the salt forcefully into the
meat, and then completely cover the meat with a "skin" of salt before layering.
Large cuts of meat have a greater risk of spoiling if cured with the bone still in, so unless
you're an expert you should de-bone the meat so that salt can be rubbed into the cavity left by
the bone, as well as over the outer surface of the meat being cured.
To extract the bone cut down through the skin with a very sharp knife, and then carefully prise
250
the bone loose from its moorings. After the curing mix has been rubbed into the cut, the slit is
stitched up, using butcher's string and a large darning needle. (Try not to make it look like a
practice run for an early Frankenstein movie!)
In addition to making the food more flavourful, because the cured meat is drier, it is typically
better preserved.
Dry-cured foods last well without refrigeration, and jerky and biltong are a favourite trail food
for campers, hikers, hunters, farmers and fishermen.
Dehydration: Many designs of jerky and biltong curing boxes include a lamp in the curing
box.
In fact, it is not heat, but a reduction in humidity that we should be aiming for. Where a lamp is
used, its purpose should be to dry, rather than to warm, the air passing over the food. If you
need a lamp to dry out the air, use it outside the box if possible (as described, below).
Whether you dry your cured meat or fish in a curing box or in a cool spot in the scullery or
basement, or in an outside shed or warehouse, the trick is to ensure that a cool stream of dust-
free air can freely move over it.
Curing Containers: Mixing containers should be made of a material which will resist
corrosion. Stainless steel, glazed-ware and plastic may all used.
Wood can also be used but take care has to clean and sterilise it thoroughly after and before
each use.
The containers should be provided with lids to protect the meat from the air and insects while
curing.
Food Selection: As a general rule, fresh meat is preferable to frozen, and fresh fish is pretty
much essential. Avoid vacuum sealed meat, and if you have to use it, make sure you wipe it
down well with vinegar before you start the curing process.
Preparation: If you cannot avoid using frozen meat, make sure that you thaw it slowly, in the
refrigerator, and not in the open at room temperature.
Cutting: If you're using fresh meat, or fish, chill it just short of freezing to make cutting easier.
Where you are not curing an entire joint of muscle meat, like a ham or a loin, there are three
methods of cutting your meat – with the grain, across the grain, and diagonally through the
grain. Each has its merits.
Meat free of tendons and sinews is generally cut with the grain. Meat with a high percentage
of tendons and sinews is better cut in strips across the grain, to make it less "chewy". Cutting
diagonally through the grain will give a product which holds together well, but "snaps" easily
251
for eating.
Cut with the grain

Photo: 2006-03-04-11-58-21 by WmJR: Flickr Creative Commons
Your knife should be razor sharp. Not only is it extremely difficult to cut with a blunt knife,
but the appearance of the meat will look ragged, and "sawn" rather than clean and appealing.

Aim for a consistent thickness of meat for even curing and a pleasing appearance. The cut
needs to be a continuous slice, rather than an intermittent sawing motion.
Stripping: Low grade meats, with a lot of sinews and tendons, can be "stripped". Snip the
tendons or sinews and then strip them out of the meat by gripping one end with pliers or
forceps and steadily pulling the tendons free. It is more easily done when the meat is chilled
just short of freezing.
Marinating: Marinades are used to "set" the meat, and/or to flavour it. Vinegar is typically
used to "set" biltong for a few hours before seasoning it. Jerky, on the other hand, is often
marinated in a seasoning mixture which includes liquids like Worcestershire, Soy or Teriyaki
252
sauce, and honey or syrup, in addition to salt and seasoning spices.
Photo: Marinated for around 10 hours by Arnold Gatilao (arnold | inuyaki): Flickr Creative
Commons
When marinating, make sure the meat is covered with the marinade, and that the container is
covered to keep away flies and other insects. Better still, marinate in the refrigerator.
Seasoning: Salt is common to all dry curing seasoning mixes. (The only exception to this rule
is in the case of some jerky recipes, where the saltiness comes partly or wholly from soy sauce
in a marinade).
To avoid over- or under-salting, to start with you should stick to a proven recipe you are
comfortable with.
Nitrates and nitrites (commonly lumped together under the term "cooking saltpetre") are often
used in the seasoning mix. They serve three purposes: prevention of food poisoning;
flavouring; and food colouring.
But nitrates and nitrites are also poisonous. In fairly small quantities they can kill. For this
reason, the allowable quantity in food curing mixes in most countries is strictly regulated.
Nitrite is about three times as toxic, but more stable, than nitrate, and it fixes colour, and kills
bacteria and parasites, faster than nitrate. Less salt is absorbed by the food and there is less
chance of over-salting.
Providing nitrites are used within prescribed limits (200 parts per million in the US),
extensive tests have indicated that they are not harmful to health.
To be safe, buy one of the proprietary dry seasoning cures sold for the purpose, where the
quantities of salt and nitrites are precisely and uniformly measured out. If you prepare your
curing mix yourself, the combination is generally 95% common salt, and no more than 5%
sodium nitrite.
Spices and Rubs: Most classical dry-cured hams and bacons use little more than plain salt,
cooking saltpetre (nitrates and/or nitrites) and sometimes a little sugar. You can use other
seasonings and spices, as well – particularly in jerky recipes. Ground black pepper, crushed
253
coriander (which also helps to keep flies away), sage and thyme. nutmeg, chilli, garlic and
onion flakes or powder are among the favourites, but you can try almost any of the dry rubs
mentioned in the earlier sections on smoking and barbecue, above. In many cases, it's better to
apply spices after the meat has been cured and ripened, and immediately before it is hung out
to dry.
Photo: Spicy by Gajman: Flickr Creative Commons

Stages and Timing in the Curing Process: As we have seen above, as salt is absorbed into
the food being cured, fluids are leeched out of it, and the lost salt needs to be restored from
time to time during the curing process.
The total cure time depends partly on the weight of the meat and partly on its thickness.
For larger cuts of meat, like hams, it's best to go by weight, and for smaller cuts by thickness.
The following are the minimum times recommended.
Cure Time By Weight:
For small cuts allow 4 days per kg of the cut being processed.
For large cuts, like hams, allow 6 days per kg.
Cure Time By Thickness: For strips or slabs of meat (like steaks and fillets) allow 7 days
per 25 mm (1") of thickness.
To illustrate, let's take as an example one or a number of 7 kg (about fifteen and a half pounds)
hams. Allowing 6 days per kg, total curing time will come to 42 days.
To ensure a uniform application of salt and seasoning, divide the cure mixture into two equal
halves, and apply one half at the start of the cure. Rub well into the meat, taking particular
care to massage deep into the tissues close to or in contact with bone. Spread salt over the
entire outer surface of the meat, leaving no gaps for bacteria to gain entry.
254
Divide the second half of the curing mix into two further parts.
Layering and Rotation: Layer the salted and seasoned food, skin or fat side down, in
corrosion resistant containers, ensuring there are no gaps between the pieces. Rotate the food
according to the "Rule of Thirds" – for the first 1/3 of the curing time, half the curing mixture is
used; at the end of that time the meat is again seasoned with a quarter of the remaining curing
mix and the top layers of food are rotated to the bottom. After another 1/3 of the curing time
has elapsed, the last quarter of the curing mix is applied, and the food again rotated and re-
layered.
In our example, you would cure the hams for 21 days in the first half of the cure mix. Then re-
season them with half of the remaining mix, re-layer and allow to cure until day 31 or 32.
Apply the final quarter of the curing mix, rotate the layers, and leave the meat to cure until day
42.
Hanging, Drying and Ripening: At the end of the cure, wipe the food down, drain it and pat it
dry, and then hang it. If there is plenty of space; a cool, dust-free environment; a steady draft
of air; relatively constant temperature and adequate protection from birds, rodents and insects,
the meat can be hung from hooks on a line stretched tightly, for example, between two walls.
Many believe that this gives the best quality and flavour.
Photo: Wind-dried meat with chilli by Alpha (avlxyz): Flickr Creative Commons
Where you don't have enough space, or the air is warm and humid, the food can be cured in a
drying cabinet. Designs and construction details for one you can build yourself are given in
PART 10, below, or you can buy one online.
Whichever method you use, take care that the pieces of meat don't touch one another, so that air
can flow freely around them.
Drying and ripening times vary. It's largely a matter of taste and patience. As a general rule,
though, you should allow at least a few months drying time for larger hams to achieve their full
flavour, and to eliminate bacteria.
255
Drying Cabinets: Where drying times are quick (for biltong, and jerky, for example), and you
don't plan on doing a number or cures, drying cabinets can be as simple as a cardboard or
wooden box, with vents in the box providing a decent air flow across the food being cured in
them, and dowelling rods spanning the box from which the strips of meat can be hung. Where
longer drying and ripening times are required, however, a more permanent and durable
structure is recommended.
Equipment for cold smoking (whether commercial or hand-built) covered earlier in the book –
and also in PART 10, below – can easily be adapted for air drying by simply exchanging a
draft of cool dry air in place of a stream of smoke. An old refrigerator, with a series of small,
mesh-covered vent holes at or around the top, and a fan at the bottom, is ideal.
Particularly in the case of wooden cabinets, protect the floor of the cabinet with a plastic or
stainless steel tray, to collect any salty fluids dripping from the food being cured, and to
prevent the growth of bacteria and any tendency for the wood to rot.
The draft or air in a curing cabinet needs to be colder than the smoke stream in a cold-smoking
cabinet, so you should use a fan either to suck, or preferably blow, a stream of air through the
cabinet, and over the food. If you're making your own cabinet, fans can be bought or
scavenged from a variety of sources – from old computers, air conditioners, hair dryers etc.
Smell the air issuing from the fan before installing it– particularly in old fans, there is
sometimes a "plastic-y" smell which could taint the food.
To avoid sucking or blowing dust and other air-borne particles over the food, ensure filters are
installed in the air stream.
Incandescent lamps are often used in drying cabinets – partly to move the air about, and partly
to draw moisture out of it. You want the air inside the cabinet to be cool, so like the offset
firebox used in the better models of smokers, you should separate the lamp from the cabinet, so
the air passing over it is dried, and allowed to cool, before it enters the cabinet. We describe
how in PART 10, below.
Maintenance, Hygiene and Safety:
Here is a short list of basic hygiene ground rules:
Ensure all equipment, containers and utensils are clean. A mild solution of household bleach
can be used, or a fairly strong concentration of spirit vinegar. Since bacteria breed in cracks
and crannies, avoid using harsh scourers that could score or cut the surface of your container;
(Preferably) wear catering-quality rubber gloves, and if you don't, make a point of washing
your hands thoroughly with soap before and after handling foods;
Don't allow raw, and cooked or processed foods, to come into contact with one another;
Thaw frozen meats completely before curing, and thaw in the refrigerator rather than at kitchen
room temperature;
256
Refrigerate meat, fish and poultry at 5 C (+-40 F) or below, and ideally use within 2 to 3 days;
Marinate foods in the refrigerator;
Don't re-use marinades (if you do, make sure that they are vigorously boiled first);
Mould: Mould develops in warm, moist or humid conditions, and is commonly experienced
during prolonged wet or rainy weather, and at the coast. Once it takes hold, it spreads
quickly.
The best cure is prevention, and you should cure foods in a dry, cool environment. If it is
caught early enough mould can be removed by wiping the food with a cloth moistened in
vinegar. Check food regularly during the hanging and ripening phases.
Ensure that pieces of meat don't touch one another while drying, and marinate or wipe meat
with vinegar, before curing it, and hanging it.
Bacteria and Other Nasties
If you're dry-curing pork, buy the certified product to avoid even the smallest risk of
trichinosis, which is a particularly nasty infection of roundworms and the cysts they produce in
human hosts.
Freezing will not kill bacteria, but will effectively limit their growth.
Wild Game: Don't use meat taken from near the bullet entry for curing.
Any meat which could have been infected from a gut-shot wound should be cooked, and not
used for dry curing.
Storage: The longer foods have been cured, the better preserved they will be, and the less
need there will be for refrigeration. Classic dry-cured hams, for example, like Parma and
Serrano, will keep in unrefrigerated conditions for months and even years without spoiling.
257
Commons
Foods like jerky and biltong, with a much quicker curing time, while they will keep well for
days and even a few weeks are better stored in refrigerated or vacuum-packed conditions.

Cured meat products fall into two distinct groups – those where an entire cut or strip of muscle
meat, such as a ham, or loin, biltong or jerky, is cured; and those where portions of minced
meat are cured in the form of sausages, salamis and the like. This latter group are often
referred to as "reconstituted" or "comminuted" products.
Following are examples of how to make some of the more popular cured meat products:
JERKY AND BILTONG

While in theory they can be made from virtually any lean meat, by far the bulk of both biltong
and jerky is today made from beef – not only because of its ready availability, and relatively
low cost, but because of the significantly lower risk it poses, in comparison with pork, for
infection by the trichinella parasite. Fish biltong, particularly that made from tuna, is also
becoming increasingly popular.
Popular cuts of beef include silverside, rump and tenderloin, and lean brisket, although many
others are also suitable.
The main difference between biltong and jerky, as we have seen, is in the application of heat.
258
Jerky is typically heated to an internal temperature of around 72 C (160 F) as a precaution
against bacterial infestation, and because it is desirable to reach this temperature quickly (so
the meat doesn't cook!) jerky strips are consistently thin (+- 5-7mm, or ¼"), whereas biltong is
generally much thicker.
Jerky Methods and Recipes: Using a very sharp knife, first remove all fat, and then slice the
meat thinly, either with or across the grain depending on your preference and the quality and
"stringiness" of the meat in question. Partially freezing the meat makes cutting it much easier.

Marinate the meat in a marinade which could typically contain 4 parts soy sauce, 1/2 part salt
or Prague Powder#1 (salt containing a prescribed safe percentage of sodium nitrite), 1/8 part
each of onion and garlic powder, 1/8 part ground black pepper and 1 part Worcestershire
sauce. Add 1/8 part ground chilli powder or cayenne pepper for extra "bite". The marinade
should be sufficient to cover the strips of jerky, and placed in the refrigerator for anything from
1 to 6 hours, depending on the degree of saltiness you want to achieve.
Two methods of heating jerky can be used. Either boil the raw strips of meat rapidly in the
marinade for around five minutes at the end of the marinating period and immediately before
drying, or oven-heat them for around ten minutes at a temperature of +- 138 C (280 F) after
they have been dried. In either case test, with a thermometer, to ensure that the internal
temperature of the strips has reached the desired 72 C.
To dry the jerky, once the marinating process is completed, drain the strips and pat dry. Place
them on trays or racks in an oven which has been pre-heated to around 60 C, or 140 F. Drying
times will vary from around 5 or 6 hours for strips boiled in the marinade before drying, up to
20 hours or more if they are only to be heated after drying. Check for dryness every few hours.
When the desired degree of dryness has been reached, wipe any moisture or stickiness from
the surface of the jerky strips and allow the jerky on the racks or trays to cool naturally, before
packing them in plastic bags (ideally vacuum-packed), or glass jars.
Biltong Methods and Recipes: With the increasing latter day popularity of game farming in
Southern Africa and Namibia, significant quantities of biltong are still made from antelope like
eland, kudu, gemsbok, springbok and impala, but by far the most popular meat today is beef.
259
To make biltong:
If you hunt, or have friends who do, the rump or buttock of an antelope like kudu or eland
makes a superb, relatively fat-free, biltong. If you don't, or if you are one of perhaps a
majority of biltong eaters who likes a rather more fatty product, buy a whole beef cut such as a
rump, loin or silverside. Biltong loses as much as 40% to 50% of its "wet" weight in drying
(depending on whether you like it moist or dry), so buy about 5kg (+-11 pounds).
Wash the meat, and pat dry. Then, using a very sharp knife, cut the meat into strips about
25mm (1") thick, leaving the fat layered along one edge of the strip. (You can cut it off after
curing the biltong if you don't like fat, but it definitely adds to the flavour if you keep it on
during the drying process).

Marinate the meat in a marinade made up from 8 parts vinegar (spirit, cider and even balsamic
are all good), and 1 part red wine or brandy, for 3 to 6 hours. The vinegar helps to "set" the
meat, and prevent the formation of mould.
Drain and dry the meat thoroughly.
Arrange the pieces edge to edge on a piece of cling wrap or plastic sheet spread out to protect
your working surface, and sprinkle and pat into the meat a generous amount of a curing mix
made up of 4 parts each of seasoning salt and brown sugar, 6 parts ground coriander, 1 part of
ground black pepper and half a part of sodium nitrite, mixed thoroughly. (For a perfect
coriander mix, fry the whole seeds in a heavy-based, hot, pan without any fat or oil until the
seeds just start to burn; then put the seeds into a clean dishcloth, and gently crush them to
release a really pungent, heady smell).
Turn the meat over and repeat on the flip side.
Layer the pieces of meat in a plastic or stainless steel container, and leave to cure for between
12 and 24 hours, turning the pieces and rotating the layers every 2 to 3 hours for an even cure.
Remove any liquid from the surface of the meat with a cloth soaked in vinegar, and pat the
meat dry with an absorbent cloth or paper towel.
260
Press additional ground whole coriander into the meat.
If you want to vary the basic flavour, try adding (using some discretion, until you gain
confidence!) garlic or onion flakes, dried basil or oregano, cayenne pepper chilli powder, or
other seasonings and spices from the list given in PART 6, above.
Hang your biltong strips either in a cool, dry room with a good air flow, free from dust,
insects, birds and rodents, or in a drying cabinet. Optimum drying temperature is around 5 to
10 C (+- 40 to 50 C). Drying time is typically around 5 to 7 days, but you should start checking
from about day 2 depending on whether you want a moist or dry end product.
Once the meat is dried, remove the fat if you don't want to keep it; either way, cut the meat
diagonally across the grain into bite-sized pieces.
The drier the biltong the longer it will keep unrefrigerated – up to several weeks in a cool, dry
climate. If you prefer your biltong moist, it's best to vacuum pack it, and store it in the
refrigerator. To prevent mould from developing, ensure that moist sticks of biltong are not
allowed to touch one another for any length of time if they aren't refrigerated.
261
DRIED SAUSAGE ("DROEWORS") METHODS AND RECIPES: If dry-cured hams are
the Himalayas of cured charcuterie products, salamis are its Everest. While it is quite
possible to dry cure salami at home, it is complicated, and if you don't get everything just right
salami has the potential to make anyone eating it really ill!
Fortunately, however, there's a breed of dried sausages, exemplified by South African
"droëwors" ("dried sausage") where the fermentation needed for salami is not required, and
where the curing process is relatively simple, and this is discussed below.
Beef is the best meat to start with. Pork, veal and mutton are not recommended.
Thinner sausages are generally easier to make, and for this reason the casings should be sheep
rather than pork or beef;
If you use game, ensure that the same precautions are observed as are covered above in respect
to its use in jerky and biltong, and because the taste of game fat is not always appealing, it's
best to trim the fat off the game meat, and substitute it with beef fat;
With dried sausage the percentage of fat to meat should ideally not exceed 10 to 15%;
Cut meat into cubes of a size which will fit easily and without jamming into the throat of your
meat mincer or grinder;
In a stainless steel, glazed ware or plastic container marinate the cubes of meat in the
refrigerator for about an hour in a marinade consisting of four parts vinegar, four parts dry red
wine, 1 part brandy and 1 part lemon juice, making sure the marinade covers the meat;
Pre-cool the meat to 1-2 C (34-36 F) before mincing. (This helps the fat to go through the
grinder plates without clogging or "smearing");
A double mincing approach is recommended, and during this process the sheep casings should
be soaked in water (for a maximum of 2-3 hours) to soften;
For the first mince use a fairly coarse grinding plate (around 12 to 14mm);
Photo: sausage casings and meat by Rachel Tayse: Flickr Creative Commons
262
Then season the minced meat with a seasoning mix of salt, pepper and a selection of spices of
your choice (coriander, ground nutmeg or cloves, garlic or onion powder, etc). A good starter
mix could be:
- For every 5kg (11 pounds) of lean beef"
- 330 g (about 12 ounces) beef fat;
- 45 ml (about 2 ounces) salt;
- 7 ml (about 1/3 ounce) ground black pepper;
- 25 ml (about 1 ounce) roasted and crushed whole coriander seeds;
- A good pinch of powdered cloves;
- A pinch of cinnamon or nutmeg;
- A good pinch of garlic or onion powder;
- Chilli or cayenne pepper if you want a "bite" to your sausage.
Allow the seasoned mix to "set" for about 30 minutes while pre-cooling again to around 1-2 C
(34-36 F), and then mince through a medium grinding plate (around 4-6mm).
Pat the soaked casings dry with a paper towel;
Tie off one end of a casing with string and slip the open end of the casing over the spout of a
sausage stuffer. Stuffing sausages is more of an art than a science, and when you first start
you'll find that you under-fill or over-fill the casings, or that they break, split or tear. Don't
despair! A little bit of practice soon makes perfect, and the trick is to maintain a constant
speed and feed.
Photo: stuffing sausage by Southern Foodways Alliance: Flickr Creative Commons
263
(And any mistakes can be rectified by simply squeezing the stuffing out of the casings and re-
stuffing them until you're happy with the result;
The jury out as to whether you should stuff tightly to ensure there is no air between the mince
particles in the sausage or whether the stuffing should be relatively "loose" for more rapid
drying. Our own preference is for a slightly denser stuffing;
As you fill each casing, slip it off the sausage stuffer and tie off the open end;
Hang your filled sausage casings either in a cool, dry room with a good air flow, free from
dust, insects, birds and rodents, or in a drying cabinet. Ensure the sausages don't touch one
another. Optimum drying temperature is around 10 to 20 C (+- 50 to 70 F). Drying time is
typically around 5 to 7 days, but you should start checking from about day 2 depending on
whether you want a moist or dry end product;
If you're using a drying cabinet and don't have space enough for the full quantity of sausages, in
their "raw" state they freeze well, and can be kept for weeks or even months;
Thaw frozen "raw" sausages in the refrigerator, rather in ambient room temperature, and
ensure that they are completely thawed before hanging and drying.
DRY-CURED HAM (PROSCIUTTO) METHODS AND RECIPES: While dry-curing

hams (a la Parma, Serrano, and Black Forest) is not quite as difficult (or potentially risky!) as
making Italian-style salamis at home, they do require rather more care and attention to detail
than many other dry-cured products.
264
Photo: Jamon Serrano and Jameron Iberico by Adam Jones (Adam Jones PhD): Flickr
Creative Commons
To bring down the potential scrapping rate, it's advisable to cure each ham in its own
container, rather than layering a number of them in a barrel or tub together.
If you're going to process a number of hams at the same time (in separate containers!) plan in
advance where you're going to store the containers while they're ripening, and where you're
going to hang the hams once they're cured!
Since they'll be drying for several months, you'll need a committed space – either a cool, dry
room with a good air flow, free from dust, insects, birds and rodents, or a drying cabinet (a
large one!) where the hams don't touch one another, and where there is a fairly constant
temperature – ideally 10 to 15 C (+- 50 to 60 F).
You'll need:
A container for each ham to be cured, and a tray under each container to catch the brine and
fluids released during the curing process. Containers should be selected to allow the hams to
fit comfortably into them with about 20-25 mm (+-3/4"-1") clear space all round the ham once
the lid is put back on the container. Plastic boxes are ideal for the containers. They are
readily available, cheap, and from the huge variety available it is relatively easy to find an
exact fit for your hams. Often, you can buy an extra lid to form a suitable drainage tray under
the container. Small drainage holes need to be drilled into the bottom of the containers, and
they're cheap enough to be treated as "throw-aways" if you decide not to repeat the exercise;
A board for each container, which is rigid enough not to deform when a weight of around 10 kg
is placed on it. The board can be wooden or plastic, and just smaller than the interior
dimensions of the container.
Enough cheesecloth or muslin to completely cover each ham when wrapped and sewn around
it at least two and preferably more times;
265
Butcher's string and a suitable needle to sew it with (a sailmaker's or fisherman's bait needle is
ideal);
As many legs of pork as you require to cure (and for which you have containers!);
Enough fine salt to provide a "bed" of around 20 to 25 mm (3/4" – 1") under each ham in its
container and then completely cover it. (If you're going to be processing a number of hams,
you'd do well to buy your salt wholesale!);
About 25 gm (1 ounce) each of ground black pepper, and roasted and crushed whole coriander
seeds;
Wine or spirit vinegar.
When you've got all your materials and ingredients together, proceed as follows:
De-bone your hams. As mentioned earlier you can cure hams on the bone, but it's easier and
safer to de-bone them before curing and ripening them. To do this you'll need a very sharp
knife, with an equally sharp point;

Cut through the skin of the ham and then with the point of the knife work the bone loose from its
moorings;
Rub salt well into the slit, and then, using butcher's string and needle, sew the edges of the slit
up as neatly as possible;
Place the container so that it rests on its matching drainage tray, and then fill the bottom of the
container with a layer of salt about 20-25 mm thick;
Then layer all of the pepper and coriander seeds evenly on top of the salt;
Place the ham, skin-and-fat side up, and flesh side down, onto the layer of salt and seasonings
and then pour and pack enough salt to completely surround and cover the ham to a consistent
depth of a minimum of 20 mm (3/4");
On top of the salt, place the wooden or plastic board, and weigh it down so that it presses onto
266
the salt and ham in the container to assist in draining and also to give the ham the characteristic
dense and succulent texture of its Continental cousins. A handy weight can be made by filling
a plastic bag with around 12kg (+-27 pounds) of wet beach sand, and to avoid the possibility
of sand leaking out then sealing the bag and placing it in at least one and preferably two other
bags, before placing it on top of the board;
Leave the container in a cool dry place (the corner of a cellar or an outside shed is ideal,
provided it is rodent and insect free). Timing is critical! You want the salt to thoroughly
infuse the ham, but too long and it will become unacceptably salty. A good rule of thumb for a
5 kg (11 pound) ham is a minimum of 15 days, and a maximum of 20;
After the prescribed time, remove the ham from its bed of salt and wash (not soak!) it in cold
water to remove all surplus salt;
Wipe the ham thoroughly in a clean cloth soaked in vinegar, pat dry and wrap tightly in at least
two but not more than three layers of cheese cloth or muslin;
Sew the muslin "shroud" up with butcher's string, and then hang in a cool, breezy, spot for a
minimum of 4 and preferably closer to 6 months to ripen and dry. As with all dry-curing, the
conditions for ideal hanging are a relatively constant temperature and a consistent stream of
cool, dust-free air. Since you probably will only check on progress at fairly wide-spaced
intervals, take pains to ensure your hams are protected from rodents, birds and insects;
When your hams are finally cured, you may well find on unwrapping them that they are
covered in a layer of mould. Providing the ham doesn't smell positively bad, the mould is not
Photo: Serrano Ham Figs by Kurman Communications (kurmanstaff): Flickr Creative

Commons
267
Photo: Wanna taste? by Mar10os: Flickr Creative Commons
To keep the ham moist and succulent, cut just enough thin slices to eat at one sitting.
DRY-CURED BACONS (PANCETTA, GUANCIALE, ETC) METHODS AND

RECIPES: As we've seen, most bacons generally available in the supermarkets today are
wet-cured. Their flavour bears no comparison to traditional dry-cured bacon, and in
particular to bacon cuts like pancetta (cured pig's belly) and guanciale (cured pig's jowl),
either of which lifts a pasta amatriciana or carbonara or a bacon pizza from the status of a
good meal to an ambrosial offering.
Since the methods for curing them are fairly similar, we'll confine our attentions here to
guanciale.
268
Like all the best dry-cured meats, there are basically five key ingredients in a successful
guanciale cure: the quality of the meat; the seasonings used; the curing, hanging and drying
process and conditions; the degree of control exercised over them; ... and patience! The longer
the time during which the meat hangs, dries and ripens the better the flavour!.
Buy your jowl from a reputable butcher, making sure that he knows what you want it for, and
look for a jowl that has a good depth of meat and fat, rather than a skinny, relatively leaner
cut. Tell the butcher to leave the skin on. And buy only certified pork to minimise any risk of
trichinella infestation.
As a further precaution against trichinosis, we'd recommend using a seasoning cure containing
nitrites and salt in a controlled, premixed ratio. The cures are readily available from good
butchers. Other seasoning ingredients could include juniper berries, coriander powder, garlic
or onion powder, cayenne pepper, dried nutmeg, oregano, sage, salt and sugar.
A fairly standard recipe for one largish jowl could contain:
- 5 parts table salt;
- ¼ part seasoning cure;
- 1 part onion or garlic powder;
- ¼ part crushed juniper berries;
- ¼ part cayenne pepper;
- 1 part of an equal mix of dried oregano, thyme, sage, and coriander;
- 3 parts brown sugar;
- Enough muslin or cheesecloth to wrap twice around the jowl;
- Butcher's string and a darning needle.
Put the dry ingredients through a blender or grinder if they are widely different in size.
Choose a corrosion resistant container (glass, plastic, stainless steel or glazed-ware), with a
lid, into which the jowl fits snugly.
269
When you've got everything ready:
Wipe the jowl thoroughly with a cloth soaked in vinegar;
Thoroughly mix the seasoning ingredients together, and massage them into the jowl, so that all
surfaces of the meat and fat are covered;
Place the jowl into the container, flesh side down, and pack any remaining seasoning into and
around the jowl;
Put the lid on the container and refrigerate it from 7 to 9 days, rotating the jowl at least once
every 24 hours (and reapplying the seasoning mix if necessary);
After the curing time is over, remove the jowl and wash off any remaining cure;
Wipe again with a cloth soaked in vinegar, to minimise the risk of mould, and pat dry;
Wrap the muslin or cheese cloth twice around the jowl, and sew the free edge of the cloth
tightly;
Hang the jowl to dry for a minimum of 3 weeks and as much as four months – if you can wait
that long! – in a cool, breezy, place with a good circulation of air (if you make more than one
jowl at a time, the wait for the next batch won't seem nearly as long!);
When your jowls are finally cured, you may well find on unwrapping them that they are
covered in a layer of mould. Providing the jowl doesn't smell positively bad, the mould is not
To store, either cut into pieces; wrap in brown paper and cling wrap, and store in the
refrigerator; or if you have a really cool, dry place, protected from insects, rodents and birds,
leave hanging as a single piece and cut slices off the jowl as you need them.
In paper thin slices the guanciale can be used like black forest ham as one of the best sandwich
fillings you'll ever taste. Or you can eat it, like ham or salami, as part of a tray of mezze or
antipasti. Cube it and use it in a pasta carbonara or amatriciana. Or make it the keynote
ingredient in a guanciale pizza.
Photo: Pig Jowl Pizza by Carly Lesser & Art Drauglis (Carly & Art): Flickr Creative
270
Commons
And enjoy!
271
(Materials, Assembly Instructions and Construction Details – From Smallest to Largest)
Why Do It?
Bits and Pieces (a List of Potential Materials and Components)
From Simple to Ambitious
- Stove-top Smokers
- Drum Smokers
- Pit, Cabinet, and Vault Smokers
- Cold Smokers
Why and When to Build Your Own

In Part 1 above we gave what (for us) are five good reasons for smoking one's own foods at
home. Two of them at least apply in like manner to building one's own smoker:
1 Cost; and
2 A sense of achievement or fulfilment.
The first reason for building your own, Cost, has to be treated with some caution. One of the
biggest mistakes many people make (and we're certainly no exception!) is to undervalue and
inefficiently ration our time.
Everything we do is at the cost of something we don't! If we spend a minute on activity A, that
particular minute, at least, is NEVER going to be available to spend on activity B.
So, if saving cost is our prime or only motivation for building our own smoker, we need to
examine very carefully the "opportunity cost" of the time it's going to take us.
What this means in practical terms is that if you're a DIY enthusiast, and if building your own
smoker is a project you would want to accomplish anyway in your spare time, in the evenings
or over a weekend, then you will – in addition – undoubtedly save money in doing so.
272
If, however, the time the project would need is time that you would otherwise give to writing a
book, or re-structuring your investment portfolio, or even painting your house in anticipation of
putting it up for sale – all activities with a real money value attaching to them – then you might
well find that the opportunity cost of not doing those things makes it a more sensible option to
go out and buy the smoker you need.
Which brings us to the second reason for building your own – the sense of achievement it
brings!
We love tinkering. We're part of a small, and perhaps even nutty, breed of people who enjoy
browsing through small-town antique shops, and fossicking through the discards littering the
yards of our appliance mechanics. Putting together a smoker made up of all these and other
scavenged bits and pieces gives us a real buzz! And, given that this is the way we would have
chosen to spend our spare or leisure time, anyway, it has certainly saved us money!
There have been times, too, when we've been hiking or camping, and the opportunity to smoke
windfall wilderness food offerings has presented itself. Making shifts to put together a
workable "smokehouse" in situations like these is a real challenge, and the sense of
achievement it brings is reward enough in itself.
There is a third reason for making your own (which finds no counterpart in the list of reasons
referred to in Part 1) and it's all about aesthetics.
Again, if you hunger after a glossy, macho, black-and-red enamelled, highly personalized pit
and trailer combo that will draw the crowds on the BBQ competition circuit you would
probably – unless you have a full-on metalworking and spray painting workshop and the full
skill set to use them – do better to go out and buy one.
There's also not much you can do to pretty-up a stove-top smoker – although it's an easy DIY
project to put one together! And patio-size, home-built water and small vertical smokers are
more about function than "WOW-level" good looks.
It's when we shift our attention to large, permanent pit, cabinet and vault smokers that the
chance to be creatively aesthetic really kicks in.
You can, of course, build a commercial BBQ pit into a permanent, home-built, outdoor
structure, and this kind of hybrid approach has a lot going for it in terms of convenience and
absence of hassle.
Equally, though, you can build, from a completely cold start, not only a functional pit or
cabinet style smoker but one which is aesthetically beautiful, as well.
This is particularly true in large, landscaped gardens where a BBQ entertainment area can be
constructed to give the same sort of aesthetic end result as a fountain or water-featured space.
Bits and Pieces – a (Broad Brush!) List of Components and Materials to Use
273
In Parts 6 and 7, above, in place of a whole compendium of recipes we took the approach of
suggesting a few pro-forma or "platform" recipes for both seasonings and foods, and then
providing a list of ingredients which could be creatively mixed and matched to produce
workable recipes of your own.
We think it could be useful to approach the why and how of building your own smoker using
much the same formula.
What follows, then, is a list of the components and materials you could usefully look for in
constructing everything from the simplest stove-top smoker, to the most ambitious permanent
pit or vault smoker. As you'll see, many of the components and materials can be used
interchangeably across a range of different smoker types – and functions – while others are
pretty much limited to one type or function only.
With this table as a reference point we then go on to suggest one "platform" or pro-forma
construction approach for a selection of smoker types, in turn, leaving you the choice of using
this blueprint, unchanged, or developing one of your own.
(In constructing the table, we have not overlooked the obvious approach of building a "hybrid"
smoker, using some "bespoke" smoker parts in combination with other, scavenged, parts. As a
DIY purist, you may or may not choose to go this route! – it's available if you need it.)
Here, then, is a list of the kind of materials you could consider using, with an indication of the
sort of places you might expect to find, or be able to acquire, them, as well as suggestions as to
which types of smoker you could consider using them for:
Discarded Agricultural Equipment and Parts – EXAMPLES: Seed and fertilizer hoppers
etc; USED FOR: Fireboxes; Smoke Chambers; USED IN: Drum, Pit, Vault, Box or Cabinet
Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Wreckers' Yards; Scrap Yards; Farmsteads;
Ammunition Boxes (old or new) – USED FOR: Fireboxes; Smoke Generators; Smoke
Diffusers; USED IN: Stove-Top, Drum, Small Vertical/Water, Combination Grill/Smoker,
Vertical, Vault, Box or Cabinet, and Pit Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Military Surplus
Stores; Antique and Junk Stores; Amazon, eBay and similar online marketplaces;
274
Discarded Appliance Carcasses – EXAMPLES: Refrigerators, Chest Freezers, Stoves,
Microwaves, Washing Machines, etc. USED FOR: Smoke Chambers; USED IN: Small
Vertical/Water, Combination Grill/Smoker, Vertical, Vault, Box, Cabinet, and Pit Smokers;
OBTAINABLE FROM: Scrap Yards; City Dumps; Appliance Repair and Service Yards;
Discarded Appliance Doors – EXAMPLES: Refrigerators, Chest Freezers, Stoves,
Microwaves, Washing Machines, etc. USED FOR: Smoke Chamber Doors; Smoke Chamber
Lids; USED IN: Stove-Top, Drum, Small Vertical/Water, Combination Grill/Smoker, Vertical,
Vault, Box or Cabinet, and Pit Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Scrap Yards; City Dumps;
Appliance Repair and Service Yards;
Old and discarded Auto Parts – EXAMPLES: Sumps, Gearbox casings, etc. USED FOR:
Fireboxes; Smoke Generators; USED IN: Drum, Small Vertical/Water, Combination
Grill/Smoker, Vertical, Vault, Box or Cabinet, and Pit Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM:
Wreckers' Yards; Scrap Yards; Auto Repair and Service Yards;
Photo: DSC_0481 by Tony Harrison (tonylanciabeta): Flickr Creative Commons

Baffle Plates (Metal) – USED FOR: Baffles; Smoke Diffusers (Perforated); USED IN:
Stove-Top, Drum, Small Vertical/Water, Combination Grill/Smoker, Vertical, Vault, Box or
Cabinet, and Pit Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Metal Suppliers;
Baffle Plates (Wooden) – USED FOR: Baffles; Smoke Diffusers (Perforated) (Cold-
Smoke!); USED IN: Stove-Top, Small Vertical/Water, Combination Grill/Smoker, Vertical,
Vault, Box or Cabinet, and Pit Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Timber merchants; scrap
275
yards;
Bricks and Mortar – USED FOR: Pits, Vaults, Cabinets, Boxes, Smoke Chambers; USED IN:
Combination Grill/Smoker, Vertical, Vault, Box or Cabinet, and Pit Smokers; OBTAINABLE
FROM: Hardware Stores; Builders' Merchants;
Photos (l to r): house bricks by Steve Johnson (Steve A Johnson); and Cement by Gaby Av
(_fidelio_): Flickr Creative Commons
Flue Collars – USED FOR: Flue Connectors; USED IN: Drum, Small Vertical/Water,
FROM: Hardware Stores; Wood Stove Suppliers;
Concrete Inspection Chambers – USED FOR: Pits; Vaults; Smoke Chambers; USED IN:
Vertical, Vault, Box or Cabinet, and Pit Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Specialist concrete
product manufacturers
Drain Pipe (Plastic) – USED FOR: Chimneys (Cold-Smoke); Smoke Directors (cold Smoke);
USED IN: Vertical, Vault, Box or Cabinet, and Pit Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM:
Hardware Stores; Plumbing Supply Outlets; Building Supply Outlets;
Photo: Plastic by Danielle Scott: Flickr Creative Commons

Drums (old or new) – USED FOR: Smoke Chambers; Fire Boxes; USED IN: Drum, Small
276
Vertical/Water, Combination Grill/Smoker, Vertical, Vault, Box or Cabinet, and Pit Smokers;
OBTAINABLE FROM: Scrap Yards; Farmsteads; City Dumps; Drum Suppliers; Oil Supply
Depots;
Photo: Stray Barrel by alisdair: Flickr Creative Commons

Drum Cut-out Sections – USED FOR: Doors; Lids; USED IN: Drum, Small Vertical/Water,
Combination Grill/Smoker, Vertical, Vault, Box or Cabinet, and Pit Smokers;
Electric Plates (old or new) – USED FOR: Heat Sources; USED IN: Stove-Top, Drum, Small
OBTAINABLE FROM: Electrical Service Yards; Electrical Supply Stores; Hardware Stores;
Discount and Chain Stores; Amazon, eBay and similar online marketplaces;
Photo: An Old Hotplate by Matt Grommes (MattGrommes): Flickr Creative Commons

Extractor Fans (old or new) – EXAMPLES: Auto and Cabinet Turbine Ventilators – USED
FOR: Draft Inducers; USED IN: Drum, Small Vertical/Water, Combination Grill/Smoker,
Vertical, Vault, Box or Cabinet, and Pit Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Ventilation Supply
Outlets; Auto Spares Supply Stores; Auto Repair and Service Yards;
Flues (Wood Stove) (old or new) – USED FOR: Chimneys; Smoke Directors; USED IN:
Drum, Small Vertical/Water, Combination Grill/Smoker, Vertical, Vault, Box or Cabinet, and
277
Pit Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Hardware Stores; Wood Stove Suppliers; Demolition
Yards; Amazon, eBay and similar online marketplaces;
Photo: Flexible Chimney Flue by Chris RubberDragon (Rubber Dragon): Flickr Creative
Commons
Gas Burners - USED FOR: Heat Sources; USED IN: Stove-Top, Drum, Small
OBTAINABLE FROM: Camping and Outdoor Suppliers; Discount and Chain Stores;
Hardware Stores; Amazon, eBay and similar online marketplaces;
Discarded Gas Cylinders – USED FOR: Fire Boxes; Smoke Generators; USED IN: Stove-
Top, Drum, Small Vertical/Water, Combination Grill/Smoker, Vertical, Vault, Box or Cabinet,
and Pit Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Gas Supply Outlets; Scrap Yards; City Dumps;
Gas Rings - USED FOR: Heat Sources; USED IN: Stove-top, Drum, Small Vertical/Water,
FROM: Gas Appliance Suppliers; Gas Supply Outlets; Hardware Stores; Industrial Catering
278
and Cooking Supply Outlets; Discount and Chain Stores; Amazon, eBay and similar online
marketplaces;
Brass Gate Valves - USED FOR: Vents; USED IN: Drum, Small Vertical/Water,
FROM: Irrigation Supply Outlets; Plumbing Supply Outlets; Hardware Stores;
Green Hardwood Sticks – USED FOR: Hangers; Skewers; (Wilderness Smoking); USED IN:
Stove-Top, Small Vertical/Water, Combination Grill/Smoker, Vertical, Vault, Box or Cabinet,
and Pit Smokers;
Griddles, Skillets, Fry-pans (old or new) – USED FOR: Smoke Generators; Drip Pans;
USED IN: Stove-Top, Drum, Small Vertical/Water, Combination Grill/Smoker, Vertical,
Vault, Box or Cabinet, and Pit Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Scrap Yards; City Dumps;
Cooking and Catering Outlets; Discount and Chain Stores; Hardware Stores; Amazon, eBay
and similar online marketplaces;
Grids – EXAMPLES: Ovens and Refrigerator Grids, Gratings; USED FOR: Food Support
Grids; USED IN: Stove-Top, Drum, Small Vertical/Water, Combination Grill/Smoker,
Vertical, Vault, Box or Cabinet, and Pit Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Appliance Service
Yards; City Dumps; Scrap Yards;
Old and discarded Gun Safes – USED FOR: Smoke Chambers; USED IN: Stove-Top, Small
Vertical/Water, Combination Grill/Smoker, Vertical, Vault, Box or Cabinet, Pit;
OBTAINABLE FROM: Antique and Junk Stores; Scrap Yards; Auction Houses and Sales;
Demolition Agents; Amazon, eBay and similar online marketplaces;
Hinges – USED FOR: Door Hinges; Lid Hinges (Piano; Brass; Parliament; Pinion); USED IN:
Cabinet, and Pit Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Hardware Stores;
Discarded Kettle Grills – USED FOR: Fireboxes; Smoke Chambers; USED IN: Stove-Top,
Pit Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Appliance Repair and Service Yards; Scrap Yards;
Auction Houses and Sales; City Dumps;
Metal Plate – SS or C3R12; USED IN: Stove-Top, Drum, Small Vertical/Water,
FROM: Metal Dealers;
Mosaics – USED FOR: Cladding: USED IN: Vertical; Vault, Box or Cabinet, and Pit
Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Hardware Outlets; Building Supplies Outlets; Artist Supply
Stores;
279
Photo: Brick Wall Texture by Patrick Hoesly (Patrick Hoesly): Flickr Creative Commons:
Muffin Pans (old or new) – USED FOR: Egg and Crustacean Smoke Containers; USED IN:
Cabinet, and Pit Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Discount and Chain Stores;
Photo Fox Run Brands

Oven Pans (old or new) – USED FOR: Smoke Generators; Drip Trays; USED IN: Stove-Top,
Pit Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Restaurant Suppliers; Appliance Service Yards; Auction
Houses and Sales; Scrap Yards; Amazon, eBay and similar online marketplaces;
Reinforcing Bar – USED FOR: Grid and Tray Supports; S-Hook Hanging Points; USED IN:
280
Pit Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Metal Dealers; Building Supply Outlets; Hardware
Stores;
Photo: Long Rebar BW by Brian Birke: Flickr Creative Commons

Small Wood Stoves (old or new) – USED FOR: Heat Sources; Fire Boxes; Smoke
Generators; USED IN: Drum, Vertical, Vault, Box or Cabinet, and Pit Smokers;
OBTAINABLE FROM: Antique and Junk Stores; Scrap Yards; Wood Stove Supply Outlets;
Discount and Chain Stores; Hardware Stores; Building Supply Outlets; Amazon, eBay and
similar online marketplaces;
Photo: Wood burning stove by Valerie Everett: Flickr Creative Commons

S-Hooks (ms round bar) – USED FOR: Food Hooks; USED IN: Drum, Small Vertical/Water,
FROM: Metal Dealers; Abandoned Construction Sites; Building Supply Outlets;
281
Thermometers – USED IN: Stove-Top, Drum, Small Vertical/Water, Combination
Discount and Chain Stores; BBQ Accessory Suppliers; Heating Specialist Outlets; Amazon,
eBay and similar online marketplaces;
Photo River Country

Tiles – USED FOR: Cladding; USED IN: Vault, Box or Cabinet, and Pit Smokers;
OBTAINABLE FROM: Building Supply Stores;
Tin Boxes, Chests or Trunks (old or new) – USED FOR: Fireboxes; Smoke Chambers;
Smoke Diffusers; USED IN: Stove-Top, Drum, Small Vertical/Water, Combination
Antique and Junk Stores; Military Surplus Stores; Auction Houses and Sales; Amazon, eBay
and similar online marketplaces;
Concrete Tree Rings – USED FOR: Smoke Chambers; Formers; USED IN: Vertical, Vault,
Box or Cabinet, and Pit Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Concrete Product Suppliers;
Nurserymen; Garden Supply Outlets;
Trolleys (old or new) – USED FOR: Carts; USED IN: Drum, Small Vertical/Water,
FROM: Junk Yards; Scrap Yards; City Dumps; Trolley Supply Outlets;
282
Photo: Luggage Cart Amtrak Station Hollywood by Phillip Pessar: Flickr Creative Commons
Vents (inc. Weber Vent Parts) – USED FOR: Draft Inducers and Controllers; USED IN:
Pit Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Wood Stove Suppliers; Weber; Scrap Yards;
Old and discarded Wall Safes – USED FOR: Smoke Generators; Fire Boxes; USED IN:
Pit Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Auction Houses and Sales; Antique and Junk Stores;
Scrap Yards;
Discarded Washing Machine Inner Drums – USED FOR: Smoke Diffusers; USED IN: Drum,
Small Vertical/Water, Combination Grill/Smoker, Vertical, Vault, Box or Cabinet, and Pit
Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Appliance Repair and Servicing Outlets; Scrap Yards; City
Dumps;
Photo: Our washing machine broke...by Paul Stainthorp: Flickr Creative Commons
283
Old and discarded Wheelbarrow Frames – USED FOR: Carts; USED IN: Drum, Small
Vertical/Water, Combination Grill/Smoker, Vertical, Vault, Box or Cabinet, and Pit Smokers
and Pit Smokers and Pit Smokers and Pit Smokers and Pit Smokers and Pit Smokers and Pit
Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Farmsteads; Nurseries; Scrap Yards; City Dumps;
Photo: Wheelbarrow by John Loo: Flickr Creative Commons

Wooden Barrels (old or new) – USED FOR: Cold-Smoke Smoke Chambers; USED IN: Cold-
Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Coopers; Wine Suppliers; Garden Supply Outlets; Antique
and Junk Stores;
Photo: Bench and Barrel by Valerie Everett (edited): Flickr Creative Commons
Wooden Doors (old or new) – USED FOR: Cold-Smoke Smoke Chamber Doors; USED IN:
Cold Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Hardware Outlets; Building Supply Outlets;
Demolition Companies;
284
Photo: SC5832 Crate, part 2 by Patrick Finnegan (vaxomatic): Flickr Creative Commons
Wooden Crates – USED FOR: Cold-smoke Smoke Chambers; USED IN: Cold Smokers;
OBTAINABLE FROM: Scrap Yards; Junk Yards; Industrial Sites; City Dumps;
Wood and Electric Stove Doors (old or new) – USED FOR: Cold-smoke Smoke Chamber
Access Doors; USED IN: Cold Smokers; OBTAINABLE FROM: Antique and Junk Stores;
Scrap Yards; City Dumps; Wood Stove Supply Outlets; Discount and Chain Stores; Hardware
Stores; Building Supply Outlets; Amazon, eBay and similar online marketplaces;
Photo: Kettle by VladimerShioshvili (shioshvili): Flickr Creative Commons

Construction and Metalworking BasicsVladimer
Smoke chambers for cold-smoking can be constructed, as we shall see, out of wood. And
permanent, non-movable pits and vaults can be made from bricks and mortar. But most of your
Smokehouse DIY activities will involve working in metal to some degree in order to withstand
the heat which smokehouse cookery requires.
While we're aware that for some of our DIY readers working in metal will pose no
difficulties, we're also aware that for many, like us, there are facets of it which could prove
tricky.
Cutting complex shapes in sheet metal, shot-blasting, and epoxy coating are probably beyond
285
the capabilities of the average home handyman. Welding, grinding and spray-painting might
also be.
For most of us, we'd probably be comfortable with simple drilling, sanding, and cutting
activities.
With this in mind, the following observations could help:

Firstly, while a circular design for a smoke chamber is nominally more efficient at dispersing
smoke, for convenience we would recommend you go for a square design rather than a circular
one.
There are a number of reasons for saying this.
For a start, it's much easier to find square grids, trays and baffles, to fit a square smoke
chamber, than it is to find circular ones. TIP: If your design means that you simply have to use
a circular grid, buy a replacement grid from Weber – they come in different sizes, and they're
circular!
Another reason for going square is that brick and mortar construction of permanent pit and
vault smokers is considerably simplified when you don't have to lay curved pavers, and can
use conventional rectangular bricks. It's also easier to apply tiles and other cladding to a flat
surface than to a curved one.
Installing a hinged door or lid is also much easier in a straight-sided than it is in a curved-
sided construction.
Secondly, outsource the tricky and/or time-consuming work.
If you need to cut complex shapes – for example, a precisely defined circle to take a chimney
flue or collar in a snug, comfort fit, take the job to a laser- or wire-cutting engineering shop. If
you're not comfortable with an arc welder, get a welding shop to do any welding work for
you. Having your final product professionally shot-blasted will save you hours of sanding or
grinding in preparing it for painting. And for a really professional-looking job, you might want
to consider getting your smoker epoxy coated or enamelled, rather than painting it yourself.
286
Thirdly, wherever possible look for a simple construction method to take the place of a more
complicated one.
For example, drilling and riveting often represent a simpler approach to joining two parts or
metal pieces than does welding. And using store-bought elbows to form right angles in square
steel section frames is a lot simpler than defining and cutting the correct angles and welding
the parts to achieve the same result.
Finally, a word about the different types of metal you could consider using in the construction
of your smoker. And here, as with most things in life, there are a number of trade-offs to take
into account.
As a general rule, the lighter the gauge of metal used (and thus the weight of the smoker made
from it!) the less efficient it is at dispersing and holding heat – both of them desirable
smokehouse attributes. Heavy gauge steel is fine for a permanent pit or vault smoker, or one
mounted on a trailer or cart, but perhaps not so convenient for a vertical or water smoker when
you want to move it around your apartment balcony or patio without putting your back muscles
at risk while doing so.
Corrosion is also an important consideration. Outdoor smokers are susceptible to moisture-
induced metal degradation, but weather is not the only contributing factor. Seasoning
ingredients like salt, vinegar or lemon juice in rubs, pastes, and marinades, can also attack and
corrode metal.
Ferrous metals subjected to alternating high heat and cooling, for example in fire boxes, are
also substantially more prone to rust.
An important consideration is how easy or difficult a metal is to work with. Copper and brass,
while relatively easy to work, are expensive. More importantly, they can impart a bitter,
cuprous taste to food.
Stainless steel offers high resistance to corrosion. It's expensive, though, particularly in
heavier gauges, and welding it is something of a special skill. A steel known as 3CR12, while
not quite as corrosion resistant as stainless, is a very good compromise, less expensive and
easier to work. We choose it for any application where corrosion is a consideration, and
where heavier gauge plate is called for.
Perhaps the best metal for heat dispersion and general wearing characteristics is cast iron. It's
difficult to weld, cut or drill, which basically means that you have to use it as you find it, but
for applications like fire boxes, smoke chamber trays and smoker boxes, it's great.
With all the construction and assembly suggestions which follow, we give just one of many
options applicable to each smoker type. Using the list of materials given above, and applying
the general principles outlined in respect of each smoker type, below, there's nothing to stop
287
you from varying the general approach we've suggested and developing something uniquely
your own.
In looking at construction and assembly do's and don'ts, it is useful to consider for a moment
what makes a "good" as opposed to a "bad" commercial smoker design, and then to see if we
can replicate the "good" features in our own, DIY, construction.
At least five features seem to characterise the better quality smokers on the market:
1 adequate insulation;
2 "reverse flow" engineering (we explain what it is, below);
3 good venting and drafting;
4 protection from the weather (rust and corrosion); and
5 automatic or semi-automatic controls.
Of these, all but the last can be usefully incorporated into a home-built smoker, by the average
home handyman.
1 Insulation
There are many parts of the world where the temperature can vary by 30 C – in the space of a
day! In the Namib Desert, where we like to holiday, the variation can be as much as 45 C
from the early, pre-dawn hours to midday!
Trying to maintain the temperature inside a smoker at the consistent levels which are essential
for good food smoking when there's any sort of real temperature differential outside the smoker
is extremely difficult – unless there's adequate insulation.
The problem for the average home handyman is that commercial insulation is a science, and
not easily undertaken at home. Fortunately, there are a number of things we can do, and these
will be discussed in connection with each smoker type as we come to it.
2 Reverse Flow
One of the features which characterise "bad" commercial smokers is uneven heating in the
smoking chamber. The most frequent cause for this is when the chamber extends from and is
directly heated by the firebox, so the smoke in the chamber closest to the firebox is
significantly hotter than the smoke at the end of the chamber farthest away.
The better commercial smokers address this problem by double-walling the smoke chamber,
or providing a baffle along most of its length. Smoke generated in the firebox is then drafted
down the length of the smoking chamber under the dividing baffle, or up the gap between the
inner and outer walls, and only then admitted into the chamber. It is then drawn back over the
food towards the firebox before being finally vented out through the smokestack or outlet vent.
288
This "reverse flow" arrangement, by heating the smoke chamber indirectly, allows a cooler
smoke, at a more consistent temperature, to act on the food being smoked in the smoke
chamber.
Regardless of the type of smoker you elect to construct, making provision for "reverse flow" is
not only important, it's also very doable. You can, for example, use two drums, one inside the
other, to provide double walling. Or build one smaller discarded appliance carcass into a
slightly larger one. Or fit a simple sheet metal baffle.
3 Good Venting and Drafting
Another feature which differentiates "good" from "bad" commercial smokers is the provision
of good venting.
It's been claimed that the Weber Smokey Mountain Cooker is about the only vertical water
smoker to be used consistently on the BBQ Competition Circuit, and if we look for reasons for
this one of them has to be the fact that the Weber, unlike many of its nearest competitors, is
provided with really efficient control vents – three in the base of the smoker, and one in the
lid.
Easy vent adjustment not only provides control over the draft of smoke passing over the food
in the smoker, but provides better temperature control, as well.
While it is probably beyond the DIY capabilities of the average home handyman to replicate
the Weber system of venting, there are some fairly simple, and very effective, venting
arrangements that can be used. These can be as simple as providing a series of holes into the
sides of the smoke chamber into which corks or bungs can be inserted or extracted when either
less or more draft is required. An adjustable slide or baffle can be provided on the outside of
the firebox, and we also describe, below, an arrangement using brass gate valves as a very
289
durable and easy means of venting, both in the firebox and in the smoke chamber.
Using reverse flow (described immediately above) also significantly improves the draft of
smoke over the food being processed. It works even better, though, if attention is given to the
placement of the outlet vent or chimney.
Intuitively, one would expect the best position for the outlet vent to be at the top of the smoke
chamber on the side furthest away from the firebox. In fact, the ideal place to position it is at
the bottom of the chamber, adjacent to the firebox. The reason for this is that, having used
reverse flow to pull the smoke away from the firebox and up into the chamber, we now want to
pull it down and back towards the firebox, so the chamber is filled with evenly heated smoke,
and the food is thoroughly exposed to and infused with the smoke passing over it.
A further aid to draft inducement (and it is one to which we have not found reference anywhere
in the literature) is to fit a small turbine ventilator (like the ones you see on the roofs of
vehicles and buildings) onto the top of the smokestack. The turbine is activated by warm air
rising through it and turning the blades of the turbine, and this significantly improves both
airflow and smoke extraction.
4 Rust and Corrosion Prevention
If your smoker is on a cart or trailer, garage it when not in use.
Alternatively, use a cover. These are available in different sizes for a variety of garden
furniture, auto trailers – and branded smokers!
When painting your smoker, be sure to use a heat-resistant, stove, or auto engine paint.
290
To build the design shown below you'll need:
- 2 oven or roasting pans, of matching size (and preferably identical);

- A shallow steel tray sized to fit, inverted, inside one of the pans with a gap of around 5mm
to 7mm (+- ¼") between the outer lip of the tray and the inner walls of the lower pan;
- Four round pebbles to lift the tray above the surface of the bottom pan; and
- A grid on which to lay the food to be smoked (preferably stainless) to fit inside the pan and
rest on the inverted upper surface of the tray.
When assembled, a cutaway view of the smoker would look like this:
NOTES:
1 The tray inside the smoker is lifted about a centimetre above the floor of the bottom pan. An
easy way to achieve this is to place a few small pebbles under the corners and centre of the
tray (as illustrated);
2 The grid should ideally have legs (as illustrated) to raise it out of direct contact with the tray
on which it stands. If you can't find a grid with legs, you can again use a few more pebbles
291
under the corners and centre of the grid to provide the necessary clearance;
3 Stove-top smokers are not suitable for cold-smoking. Essentially, they act as a form of
"smoker/oven", designed to both cook and smoke food at the same time. This is one reason we
prefer heavy cast-iron – at least for the bottom of the two roaster pans; it soaks up, holds and
evenly disperses the heat transferred from the heat source below it into the "oven" defined by
it;
4 A second reason we like cast iron is because its heat dispersion characteristics mean you
can spread the sawdust or wood chips which you're using evenly over the floor of the bottom
pan in the assurance that all the smoke material will be combusted. With lighter gauge metal,
in order to avoid un-burnt patches of dust or chips, you need to spread the dust over the
specific area of the floor of the smoker pan which will sits above the gas ring or electric plate
below it;
5 While cast-iron is our preferred material, it is, as mentioned earlier, difficult to work. We
also appreciate that for most readers it will be easier to acquire roaster pans in a lighter
material. The pans used in our illustration are a reasonably thick, enamelled steel. When we
acquired them, they serendipitously had four pre-drilled holes in the lips projecting from the
tops of the pans. (We would otherwise have drilled them ourselves). The advantage in having
the holes is that by simply pushing a set of tapered dowelling pegs through both the top and
bottom set of holes you have a means of keeping the top pan in perfect register with the bottom
one (as illustrated below), which prevents the pans from sliding out of alignment with one
another;
6 Some makes of oven pans or roasters are sold as a set, with the bottom pan arranged to nest
in the top pan. The advantage with this arrangement is that you're provided with a relatively
good smoke seal. Where your pans don't nest, we've found that the seal between the top and
the bottom pan is improved by using a number of clothes pegs (wooden, not plastic!) to hold
the top and bottom flanges securely in contact with one another (also as illustrated below);
7 Whatever arrangement you use, remember to switch on the extractor fan above your stove, if
you use the smoker indoors!
8 As a final note, we regularly pack a pair of identical aluminium foil roasters, like those
292
illustrated above, together with a light grid, three or four wooden clothes pegs, and a couple of
handfuls of smoke dust, into our camping gear. The pans nest together, and weigh virtually
nothing. Sprinkle sawdust into the bottom of one of the pans, arrange a couple of salted trout
or mackerel on the grid, and raise it off the floor of the pan with a few small pebbles as
described above. Invert the top pan and then roll or fold the lips of the tops and bottom pans
over one another to form a good seal, as illustrated below. Peg the edges together for extra
security.
Finally, scrape a few coals out of the camp fire, flatten them down, and place the smoker on
top of them, for fifteen to twenty minutes until the food is smoked and done. And enjoy!
293
To build the design shown above (in front-on and cutaway views,) you'll need:
- 1 x 200 litre (40 gallon) metal drum (preferably stainless) with a diameter of +- 570 mm (+-
22.5");
- 1 smaller drum to fit inside the first drum, with a diameter of +-520 mm (+-20.5") or less;
- a discarded auto oil sump or other heavy duty steel container to fit flat inside the larger drum
to form a firebox;
- a substantial hardwood drawer handle;
- 5 metres (+-16 feet) of 12 mm (½") round steel bar or reinforcing rod;
- 2.5 metres (+- eight feet) of 4 mm x 25 mm flat steel bar;
- 3 x circular metal grids to fit comfortably inside the circumference of the smaller drum;
- 1 m (+- 3.1 feet) light gauge steel pipe 50 mm (2") in diameter;
- a piece of threaded steel bar 75 mm x 12 mm (3" x ½") with nuts and washers to fit either
end;
- a three metre length of 1.5 mm x 25 mm mild steel strip;
- metal chimney flue pipe, elbow, and accessories as illustrated;
- (optional) a turbine ventilator to fit into the top of the flue chimney to improve smoke draft;
- small hardwood logs or chunks, chips and sawdust;
- a pit thermometer;
- a gutter bracket; and
- metalworking tools to perform the construction steps described below.
The finished smoker is illustrated, with its component parts labelled for easy identification, at
the end of the construction steps, which follow:
294
NOTE 1: As a general observation, the various cutting activities involved can, at a pinch, be
effected at home with a cutting torch, metal jigsaw, hammer and cold chisel or the like. None
of them leave a particularly neat finish, and this is one construction aspect we would
recommend outsourcing to a wire-cutting or laser-cutting shop.
NOTE 2: Drums which have been used for the storage of foodstuffs (such as molasses) are
relatively inert, and can be used with confidence. Drums used for gasoline and motor oils
need to be thoroughly "burned in" to rid them of any trace of their former contents before being
used for smoking. Drums used for chemical storage are better not used at all, if you aren't
absolutely sure that their original contents are non-toxic.
STEP 1 – cut the top off the larger drum at a consistent 30 mm down from the lip;
STEP 2 – cut an aperture into the side of the larger drum 25 mm above the bottom of the drum.
The aperture should be sized to allow the firebox to be inserted into and extracted from the
drum in a comfort fit. Retain the curved section of the drum side for a firebox door;
STEP 3 – cut the top of the smaller drum off cleanly so that:
height of smaller drum = (height of larger drum – 450 mm);
STEP 4 – cut the top section of the smaller drum (left over from STEP 3) to form a circular
water pan 30 mm high, as shown (right, above);
STEP 5 – drill 4 x 12 mm holes through opposing sides of the larger drum 330 mm and 400
mm up from the bottom of the drum so as to fit two layers of 4 equi-spaced 12 mm round bars
into the drum. These will form floor supports on which the water pan can rest (at 330 mm) and
on which the smaller drum can rest, at 400 mm. Drill and fit split pins into the protruding stubs
of round bar to prevent them moving and dropping into the interior of the drum, while
providing a means to remove them if you need to clean the inside of the drum. Looking in from
the top of the drum, the supports should look like this:
295
STEP 6 – form a firebox door by fitting a section of piano hinge (by drilling and riveting) up
one vertical side of the curved section of the drum side which you retained in STEP 2, with
corresponding riveting points up one vertical side of the aperture in the drum;
STEP 7 – to prevent the firebox door swinging into the drum, and also to prevent as much
smoke as possible escaping from the drum, drill and rivet sections of 1.5 mm x 25 mm mild
steel strip to form a stop-check lip in the firebox aperture in the large drum. The door can be
held shut with a wing nut or a barrel bolt, as illustrated below:
STEP 8 – drill and rivet a strip of 1.5 mm x 25 mm mild steel around the inside of the top lip
of the larger drum to provide a guide for the lid of the drum to seat accurately;
STEP 9 – fit the pit thermometer to the lid of the larger drum, with its probe extending into the
smoker, and a drawer handle to the lid of the drum so it can be lifted up when required;
STEP 10 – cut a circular aperture into the side of the smaller drum 40 mm above the floor of
the drum to accommodate a short (+-250 mm) length of metal flue pipe in a really snug fit;
296
STEP 11 – now carefully mark and cut a corresponding hole in the side (or the back) of the
larger drum, making sure that it is horizontally aligned with the hole in the smaller drum when
the latter is properly seated in the larger drum;
STEP 12 – one of the problems with top-loading smokers like this one is that if you have two
or more food grids in the smoke chamber, removing the top grid in order to get to the lower
one/s is a hassle! The way to get round this is to construct a layered grid array like the one
illustrated below. Onto a piece of steel pipe in the centre of the array a number of circular
grids are mounted, supported by arms of 25 mm steel flat bar, welded onto the pipe. A piece
of threaded bar is inserted through holes drilled through the top of the pipe, and secured with
nuts and washers. The grid array rests on the bottom of the smaller drum, with its top level
with the top of the drum. (This arrangement is not unique to the present drum smoker, but can
be used in any of the top-loading smokers mentioned in this section of the book). A simple
hook and handle arrangement like the one shown can be hooked under the threaded bar and
used to lift the grid array out of the smaller drum without any danger of burning one's fingers:
STEP 13 – make up the chimney assembly by fitting and riveting an elbow to a short (250 mm)
length of flue pipe, extending from one side of the elbow, and a longer section of pipe
extending from the other, on top of which (optionally) you can fit a turbine ventilator. The
shorter piece of flue is inserted into the hole in the side (or the back, if convenient) of the
larger drum, and thence through the hole in the smaller drum. A simple gutter bracket bolted
onto the outside of the drum holds the chimney upright;
In operation, it helps to put a layer of sand about 25 mm deep onto the bottom of the larger
drum, under the firebox, and change it after every three or four smokings. The sand serves a
dual purpose, moderating the amount of heat transferred directly from the firebox (and thus
limiting corrosion) and also insulating the bottom of the drum from the air gap between the
ground and the underside of the smoker.
297
The firebox is loaded with small hardwood logs, wood chunks, chips and even an occasional
sprinkle of sawdust. Where you want to keep food relatively moist, the water pan is seated on
its supporting bars and filled with about 10 mm of water (plain or mixed with beer, wine,
etc!). For drier smokes the water pan can be left unfilled.
The smaller drum is then lowered onto its supporting bars and the chimney assembly is
inserted and aligned so that it extends through both drums. The lid of the larger drum is seated
in place and the fire is then lit. Once the temperature in the smoker reaches the required level,
the grid array, pre-loaded with food, is then (quickly, in order not to lose heat!) lowered into
the smaller drum, and the lid of the smoker is replaced.
The water pan, in addition to providing moisture, also helps to store and regulate heat, but
because the drum smoker is not insulated a regular check needs to be kept on the temperature,
adding more wood when required, opening the firebox door a crack when more draft is needed
and closing it down when the heat needs to be reduced.
The water container should be cleaned and dried out thoroughly after each smoking, to prevent
rust.
The drum smoker in operation is illustrated below, in cutaway view, with component parts
numbered for ease of identification.
KEY:
1 Large Outer Drum;
298
2 Smaller Inner Drum;
3 Strip of 25mm x 1.5mm mild steel strip riveted round and standing slightly proud of the
inner circumference of the larger drum to form a guide for the lid (4);
4 Lid of larger drum;
5 Drum Handle;
6 Pit thermometer (fitted through a hole drilled in the lid (4) so the probe extends into the
smoker);
7 Smokestack constructed from chimney flue and elbow fittings;
8 Gutter bracket to hold stack to drum;
9 Removable grid array;
10 Water tray constructed out of inverted top of smaller drum;
11 Fire box with logs;
12 Layer of sand in bottom of larger drum.

While the drum smoker described above is essentially a large Vertical/Water Smoker, the
popular concept of one of these devices is something small enough to use on an apartment
balcony or patio.
Essentially, this means that the construction details given for the drum smoker simply need to
be scaled down for the vertical/water smoker described below. For convenience in handling,
storing and operating your smoker, however, we suggest a few refinements in regards to the
heat source, smoke generator and smoke extraction system.
Neither of the containers have to be circular (drum shaped), and in our example below we
have used a square-profiled outer container with a circular inner container.
299
To build the design shown above you'll need:
- a standard metal factory locker (as found in employee restrooms);
- a small drum to fit comfortably inside the locker;
a 1-plate electrical burner, with controls;
- a substantial hardwood drawer handle;
- 5 metres (+-13 feet) of 10 mm (2/5") round steel bar or reinforcing rod;
- 2 metres (+- six foot six inches) of 8 mm round steel bar;
- 2 x circular metal grids to fit comfortably inside the circumference of the smaller drum;
- 1 m (+- 3.1 feet) light gauge steel pipe 50 mm (2") in diameter;
- a piece of threaded steel bar 75 mm x 12 mm (3" x ½") with nuts and washers to fit either
end;
- a 1.5 metre length of 1.5 mm x 25 mm mild steel strip;
- 1 x +-40 mm brass gate valve, with a corresponding piece 75 mm long of threaded steel pipe
and 3 lock nuts;
- hardwood chips and sawdust;
- a cast iron smoker box;
- a pit thermometer; and
- metalworking tools to perform the construction steps described below.
300
The finished smoker is illustrated at the end of the construction steps, which follow:
Before starting construction, please read NOTES 1 and 2 for the Drum Smoker, above.
Reference should also be made to the construction steps given above for the Drum Smoker,
many of which apply, unchanged, to the Vertical Smoker discussed here.
STEP 1 – cut the top off the factory locker at a consistent 30 mm down from the lip;
STEP 2 – employee lockers are typically provided with a hinged door. The door can be
divided into two parts by cutting 400 mm up from its bottom edge, and this lower portion of the
door can be retained for access to the electric plate, smoker box and water tray (adding one or
more hinges if necessary). The top portion of the door should be seam-welded to the sides of
the locker to provide a better seal against smoke emission;
STEP 3 – cut the top of the inner drum off cleanly so that:
height of inner drum = (height of locker – 450 mm);
STEP 4 – cut the top section of the inner drum (left over from STEP 3) to form a circular water
pan 40 mm high. (Alternatively, buy a square profiled oven tray to fit the inside dimensions of
the locker, with a nominal gap of +-40mm between the sides of the pan and the inside walls of
the locker;
STEP 5 – drill 4 x 8mm and 4 x 10mm holes through opposing sides of the locker 330 mm and
400mm up from the bottom of the locker so as to fit two layers of 4 equi-spaced round bars
spanning the insides of the locker. These will form floor supports on which the water pan can
rest (at 330 mm) and on which the inner drum can rest (at 400mm). Drill and fit split pins into
the protruding stubs of round bar to prevent them moving and dropping into the interior of the
locker;
STEP 6 – to prevent the door at the bottom of the locker swinging into the locker, and also to
prevent as much smoke as possible escaping from the locker, drill and rivet sections of 1.5 mm
x 25 mm mild steel strip to form a stop-check in the door aperture in the locker, as described
above for the Drum Smoker. The door can be held shut with a wing nut or a barrel bolt;
STEP 7 – drill and rivet a strip of 1.5mm x 25mm mild steel around the inside of the top lip of
the locker to provide a guide for the lid of the locker to seat accurately;
STEP 8 – fit the pit thermometer to the lid of the locker, with its probe extending into the
smoker, and a drawer handle to the lid of the locker so it can be lifted up when required;
STEP 9 – to form the smoke extraction system for your smoker, cut a circular aperture, in one
side(or the back) of the inner drum, +-100mm above the floor of the drum, with a diameter to
match and accommodate the corresponding diameter of the length of threaded steel pipe
extending from the brass gate valve;
STEP 10 – now carefully mark and cut a corresponding hole in one side (or the back) of the
301
locker making sure that it will be aligned with the hole in the inner drum when the latter is
properly seated in the locker;
STEP 11 – insert the inner drum into the locker so it is seated on the round bar spacers forming
its support, and rotate it so that the hole in the inner drum is aligned with the corresponding
hole in the side or back of the locker;
STEP 12 – apply a lock nut to one end of the piece of threaded steel pipe so that a stub of pipe
+- 25 mm extends outwardly from the nut, and working from the outside, push the other end of
the pipe a small distance through the hole in the locker, and apply the second lock nut to the
portion of threaded pipe jutting into the locker. Progressively tighten the inner lock nut so that
the pipe is pulled through the hole in the locker, and into the hole in the inner drum. Tighten up
the lock nut so that a good seal is formed between the inner and outer nuts on the locker.
STEP 13 – then apply the third lock nut to the threaded pipe on the inside of the inner drum, as
illustrated. Finally, screw the gate valves onto the protruding stubs of threaded pipe;
STEP 14 – as we've alluded to above, one of the problems with top-loading smokers like this
one is that if you have two or more food grids in the smoke chamber, removing the top grid in
order to get to the lower one/s is a hassle! The way to get round this is to construct a layered
grid array like the one described and illustrated in STEP 12 relating the Drum Smoker, above;
STEP 15 – fit the handle to the lid of the locker.
In operation, the smoker box is loaded with wetted hardwood chips and sawdust and placed on
the electric hotplate. The water pan is filled with water (or beer, wine, etc) and seated on its
supporting bars. The lid of the locker is seated in place and the electric plate is then turned
on.
(Cautionary note!): ensure the electric cable to the hotplate is properly insulated, and if the
plate is used outside, use an earthing rod to ensure it is grounded.
Once the temperature in the smoker reaches the required level, the grid array, pre-loaded with
food, is then (quickly, in order not to lose heat!) lowered into the inner drum, and the lid of the
smoker is replaced.
The water pan helps to maintain heat, but because the smoker is not insulated a regular check
needs to be kept on the temperature, adding more wood chips and sawdust when required, and
adjusting the controls on the hot plate when the heat needs to be reduced or increased.
The smoke draft can be increased or reduced by opening or closing the gate valve. If there is a
strong breeze around the smoker, it should be positioned so that the valve is in line with the
wind direction, with the valve on the lee side of the smoker. This will create a Venturi effect,
sucking smoke out of the open valve and preventing the wind from blowing directly into the
smoker.
The water container should be cleaned and dried out thoroughly after each smoking, to prevent
302
rust.
The vertical smoker in operation is illustrated below, in cutaway view, with component parts
KEY:
1 Modified Metal Factory Locker (Outer Container);
2 Smaller Inner Drum;
3 Strip of 25mm x 1.5mm mild steel strip riveted round and standing slightly proud of the
inner circumference of the Locker to form a guide for the lid (4);
4 Lid of Locker;
5 Locker Lid Handle;
6 Pit thermometer (fitted through a hole drilled in the lid (4) so the probe extends into the
smoker);
7 Outlet Vent comprising a Brass Gate Valve Assembly;
8 Locking Nuts to hold Gate Valve Assembly firmly to both Locker and Drum;
303
9 Removable Grid Array;
10 Water Tray constructed out of inverted top of smaller Drum;
11 Adjustable Heat Electric Hot Plate;
12 Smoker Box Charged with Small Chunks or wetted Wood Chips and sawdust.
13 Layer of Sand for insulation.
Unless you're a metalworking wizard like Jamie Geer or Fast Eddie Maurin, or others capable
of designing and producing smokers of the kind described and illustrated in Part 4, above,
AND have a workshop full of professional metalworking equipment, the best opportunity you
have of building a really creative smokehouse (and surrounds) is to design and build a
permanent feature outdoors.
It helps, of course, that you have the space to do so, but with a little ingenuity even a relatively
small amount of space can be utilised to good effect.
304
For cold-smoking the smoke chamber can be constructed out of wood, and we look at one
possibility in the section devoted to cold-smoking, below. Wood is not suitable smokehouse
material for hot-smoking and barbecue, however, and the method we are about to recommend
uses a conventional brick-and-mortar approach, combined with some of the "scavengeable"
components listed above.
There are a number of both aesthetic and functional advantages in building your smokehouse
this way. Brick, for a start, not only looks good, but is a good insulator and handles even fairly
large differences in ambient air temperature well. Direct sunlight, a cold breeze, unexpected
rain showers – all of which pose potential problems with a metal-skinned smoker – have
relatively less effect on a brick-built structure.
A second advantage with building outdoors is to be found in the cooling and temperature-
regulating potential of the earth itself. Ground which at the surface is rendered rock-hard by
the permafrost in winter, and which is capable of blistering the soles of your feet at midday in
summer, maintains a relatively uniform temperature just small distances below it. By
channelling the smoke just below the surface of the ground from your smoke generator into the
smoking chamber of your smoker, you have a natural method of keeping the temperature
relatively nice and constant.
A keyhole design works well, where the firepit is situated in the long rectangular part of the
keyhole (where the blade of the key normally fits), and the smoke chamber is positioned where
the cylinder of the key would be inserted into the circular opening in the keyhole.
And there's nothing to stop you, of course, adding a further structure attached to one or both
sides of the smokehouse to serve as a serving counter, wood storage facility, etc.
You'll need the following materials:
- a discarded 3-drawer metal filing cabinet;
- a standard builder's steel door and frame (the opening in the frame to be slightly wider than
the width of the filing cabinet);
- 4 pieces of 16mm steel reinforcing bar, 1.2 meters long;
- grids to fit into the drawers of the cabinet;
- metal chimney flue pipe, elbow, and collar as illustrated;
- a wood stove door with adjustable venting and frame which you can build into the front
opening of the firebox;
- 6 lengths of concrete wall panelling 1 meter long, and two pieces 2 metres long;
- 1 square meter of ceramic tiles for the top of the smoker;
- heat sealing gasket to fit around the inside of the steel door of the smoke chamber;
305
- ROK bricks, sand, stones and cement for the smoke chamber;
- fire bricks, sand, stone and fire cement for the firepit;
- hardwood logs or chunks;
- fire tools, including a long handled fire shovel and heat resistant gloves or mittens; and
- metalworking and bricklaying tools to perform the construction steps described below.
The finished smoker is illustrated at the end of the construction steps, which follow:
NOTE 1: As alluded to earlier, the various metal cutting activities involved can, at a pinch, be
effected at home with a cutting torch, metal jigsaw, hammer and cold chisel or the like. None
of them leave a particularly neat finish, and again we would recommend outsourcing this
aspect of the construction to a wire-cutting or laser-cutting shop.
NOTE 2: Once the necessary changes to the filing cabinet have been effected, we would
recommend having it shot-blasted professionally and then sprayed with a heat resistant oven
paint.
NOTE 3: It's important that the slide mechanisms and rollers on the filing cabinet drawers are
metal, not plastic, in order to resist the heat to which they will be exposed!
NOTE 4: The flue collar is mounted on the outside of the filing cabinet (side or back), so that
the flue itself does not protrude into the cabinet, where it could interfere with the sliding action
of the drawers.
STEP 1 – have a series of holes +-35mm (1.5") in diameter cut into the sides and back of the
filing cabinet, about 100 mm (4") down from the top, to provide access for the smoke into the
interior of the cabinet, and a further hole +- 100 mm (4") up from the floor of the cabinet to
accommodate the chimney flue collar;
306
STEP 2 – If they are solid, have the bottoms of the drawers of the filing cabinet cut out so as to
leave a strip +- 25 mm (1") in from the side walls on which to rest the grids. (Note: you can
also hang fish, etc., from steel S-hooks suspended from a piece of flat bar formed to fit across
the width of the drawer, if desired;
STEP 3 – cast the footings (foundations) for the firebox and smoke chamber using a mixture of
1 part cement, 2 parts sand and 4 parts stone;
STEP 4 – once the foundations are dry, build the walls of the firebox (including the woodstove
door, in its frame), and roof it with one or two 2-meter lengths of concrete wall panelling,
depending on width;
STEP 5 – build the walls of the smoke chamber (including the steel door frame, door, steel
rebar on which the cabinet will sit, and an aperture for the chimney vent positioned so that it is
aligned with the corresponding aperture in the side or back of the filing cabinet), and roof it
with 5 or 6 x 1-meter lengths of concrete wall panelling, depending on their width;
STEP 6 – fit the pit thermometer to the top of the steel door, with its probe extending into the
smoker;
STEP 7 – fit the flue collar to the side or back of the filing cabinet, and place the cabinet into
the smoke chamber so that it sits on the rebar, and so that the gap between the outer walls of
the cabinet and the inner walls of the smoke chamber is approximately the same and the
aperture for the chimney flue in the side or back of the cabinet is aligned with the
corresponding aperture in the side or back of the smoke chamber;
STEP 8 – make up the chimney assembly by fitting and riveting an elbow to a short (+-350
mm) length of flue pipe, extending from one side of the elbow, and a longer section of pipe
extending from the other, on top of which (optionally) you can fit a turbine ventilator. The
shorter piece of flue is inserted into the flue collar in the back of the smoke chamber, and
riveted to make sure it doesn't extend into the filing cabinet. A simple gutter bracket bolted
onto the outside of the smoke chamber holds the chimney upright;
STEP 9 – fit sealing gaskets to the steel door in the smoke chamber to provide a good seal
against smoke leaking from it;
STEP 10 – To provide aesthetic appeal to your smoker a number of options could be
considered. These include plastering (perhaps with a stucco finish) the walls of the firebox
and smoke chamber; cladding the walls, and the roof of the smoke chamber, with slasto or
terra cotta tiles; building a serving counter/fuel storage container off the free wall of the smoke
chamber; etc. We show a tiled top to the smoker.
In operation, the length of the firepit means that you can, by simply building different sized
fires at varying distances from the smoke chamber, control the heat of the smoke – which
makes your smoker suitable for either hot- or cold-smoke applications.
307
When loading the grids seated on the bottom of the drawers of the cabinet it's important to
leave sufficient space between the food items to allow the smoke to circulate freely through the
cabinet.
A regular check needs to be kept on the temperature, adding more wood when required,
moving the fire further forward or backwards in the firepit, opening the vents on the firepit
door a crack when more draft is needed and closing it down when the heat needs to be
reduced.
To assist in cleaning, it is recommended that the bottom of the cabinet be lined with heavy duty
aluminium foil before each smoking, to catch the grease and food scraps dropping onto it.
The vertical smoker in operation is illustrated below, in cutaway view, with component parts
KEY:
1 Brick-built Smokehouse;
2 Modified Steel Filing Cabinet;
3 4 lengths of 16mm Steel Reinforcing Bar spanning the inside of the Smokehouse;
4 Lid of Firebox;
5 Frame of steel Wood Fire Door built into front opening of Firebox;
6 Steel Wood Fire Door with adjustable venting;
7 Door Handle;
8 Interior of Firebox built with fire bricks, and plastered and screeded with fire cement;
9 Log Fire;
10 Smoke aperture built into the back wall of the Firebox;
308
11 Concrete footings and base for the Smoker and Firebox;
12 Flue Collar attached to outside of Filing Cabinet;
13 Food Grids fitted into open bottoms of Filing Cabinet Drawers;
14 Apertures in sides and top of Filing Cabinet to admit smoke;
15 Top of Smokehouse;
16 Ceramic Tiles laid on Top of Smokehouse;
17 Gutter Bracket to support Smokestack;
18 Smokestack Assembly extending through Smokehouse, and riveted securely into Flue
Collar (12).
309
As we've already alluded to, cold-smoking, while it is a more protracted process than hot-
smoking, in many ways is much more forgiving. And this extends to the equipment needed.
Because the temperature of the smoke in a cold-smoke process is lower – much lower! – than
it is for BBQ or conventional hot-smoking, wood (rather than metal) can be safely used to
construct the smokehouse.
This constitutes a major advantage. Wood is not only much easier to work with, but it is
inherently a much better insulator than metal, significantly simplifying the important task of
controlling and maintaining a consistent smokehouse temperature.
Variables affecting the way your cold-smokehouse works include the shape and design of the
smoker, the materials used in its construction, the positioning of the fire or smoke generator,
and the degree of protection afforded from the elements.
As with all the other home-built smokers described above, the following plan is illustrative
rather than prescriptive. We have already discussed the versatility of old metal drums for the
smoke container. Wooden barrels, crates, old appliance carcasses and filing cabinets can and
have successfully been used.
The design that follows, then, illustrates a few general principles on which you can build
depending on what materials are readily to hand and what your smoking needs extend to.
- 25 mm (1") wooden boards (tongued and grooved for a better seal) for the walls, floor and
roof of the smoker
- 40 x 35 mm (1.75" x 1.5") wooden battens for the shelf supports;
- 4 to 6 lengths of 25 mm (1") wooden rod to span the width of the smokehouse;
- a selection of S-hooks (preferably formed from stainless steel round bar);
- mesh food trays or grids to fit the internal dimensions of the smokehouse;
- screws (preferably brass, to avoid corrosion) or nails (copper) for fixing and assembly;
- T-hinges for the door (TIP: To save the problems of building and hanging a door from
scratch, you may want to buy a ready-made FLB hardwood garden door and frame, and cut it
down to size);
- metal chimney flue pipe, elbows, and accessories as illustrated;
- a cut-down, discarded 9 kg (+-20 lb) gas cylinder for the smoke generator;
- a metal door handle;
- small hardwood chunks, chips and sawdust;
- fire tools; and
310
- wood and metal-working tools to perform the construction steps described below.
The smoker in cutaway perspective is illustrated at the end of the construction steps, which
follow:
NOTE 1: As referred to previously, the various metal-cutting activities involved can, at a
pinch, be effected at home with a cutting torch, metal jigsaw, hammer and cold chisel or the
like. None of them leave a particularly neat finish, and this is one construction aspect we
would recommend outsourcing to a wire-cutting or laser-cutting shop.
NOTE 2: Cutting a discarded gas cylinder should ALWAYS be undertaken by a professional
engineering shop – particularly if a cutting torch is used. Even the smallest residue of gas in
the cylinder has the potential to set off a really nasty explosion. Definitely NOT to be
undertaken at home!
NOTE 3: The smokehouse should be constructed out of good quality hardwood. Softwoods
tend to carry gums and resins, which can be released and taint the contents of the smoker.
STEP 1 – have an aperture cut into the gas cylinder to form the firebox (as illustrated), and a
circular aperture in the top of the cylinder sized to fit the diameter of the metal flue pipe in a
comfort fit. The piece cut out of the cylinder to provide an opening to the firebox, should be
wire- or laser-cut in a wedge so that it can be fitted with a handle and piano hinges, and used
as a door, as illustrated;
STEP 2 –construct the wooden smokehouse, using the tongued and grooved boards, and making
sure the tongues are properly seated in the corresponding grooves (the dimensions can be
varied depending on your requirements and the sort of volumes of food you plan to smoke);
STEP 3 – cut a circular aperture into one side wall of the smokehouse, about 150 mm up from
its base, sized to fit the diameter of the metal flue pipe, and another in the opposite side (or the
back) the same distance down from the roof;
STEP 4 – cut, fit and hang the door in the front of the smokehouse;
311
STEP 5 – form and assemble the smoke distribution system out of the flue pipes, elbows and
accessories, as shown. (The chimney stack can be secured to the back or side of the
smokehouse with a gutter bracket);
STEP 6 – fit the thermometer into one side of the smokehouse;
STEP 7 – fit the wooden rods across the width of the smoker to provide hanging supports for
the S-hooks, and/or fit the trays and grids on which the food will be layered ( a grid is shown
in the illustration, below, and in use in the cutaway illustration of the smoker at the end of these
construction steps; and
STEP 8 – (optionally) fit the turbine ventilator to the chimney stack to improve the smoke
draft.
The smoker has been designed to provide "reverse flow" (see above) by introducing the smoke
at the top of the smoker, then drawing it down over the food contents before venting it out of
the bottom into the chimney. This significantly cools the smoke. Seat the smoker on breeze
blocks to keep the floor of the smoker above the surface of the ground, and thus avoid
problems from damp and moisture.
Using tongued and grooved boards will prevent all but a few tendrils of smoke escaping from
the sides, floor and roof of the smokehouse. The only vulnerable area is the gap around the
door, and because the heat in the smoker is no more than that to which an automobile or the
casements in a house are exposed on a sunny day, weather strip may, and should, be used
between the edges of the door and the frame into which it seats in order to provide a smoke-
tight seal.
It's good practice to line the floor of the smoker with a sheet of heavy duty foil to catch fat and
grease dripping off the food. The foil can be changed as often as necessary.
Ideally, the smokehouse should be positioned so that the door opening is at right angles to, and
slightly angled away from, the prevailing wind, and the door should be hung so that it opens
away from and not into the wind.
Small logs or chunks of wood may be used in the firebox, with charcoal briquettes to maintain
a steady heat, and sawdust may be added to increase the density of the smoke if required.
Venting of the firebox is provided by cracking the door slightly ajar, or by providing a series
of vent holes near the bottom of the fire box with swing flaps for sealing.
The smoker is shown below in cutaway view before attachment of the firebox and chimney
flues:
312
Any of the "Build Your Own" DIY Smokers described above can be adapted to serve as a Dry
Cure Cabinet – simply by dispensing with the firebox and/or smoke generator, and installing a
fan in its place.
And because there is no heat at all involved in the dry curing process, the materials from
which to construct your curing cabinet can be very rudimentary – wood, or even corrugated
cardboard, can suffice.
313
If you're going to be curing a number of larger cuts, like hams, or a big quantity of sausages or
bacons, you'd probably do well to adapt the wooden cold smoker described immediately
above. It has the advantage not only of adequate space, but of side loading capabilities, as
well. In place of, or as well as, the racks shown you should add a number of dowelling rods
spanning the width of the box from which to hang your dry-cured meats and fishes.
If, however, all you want to make is a batch of jerky, biltong, droëwors, or the odd pancetta or
guanciale, then either of the two variants of the bespoke curing box shown below (with
descriptive numbering) should be more than adequate.
The simpler of the two boxes comprises a large plastic crate (1) (but you could equally use a
wooden box, an old appliance carcass, a factory employee's locker, or any of the pieces of
scrap material described above for a home-built smoker). The box has a lid (2), a number of
pieces of dowelling rod (3) spanning the box, and one or more fans (4) to move the air about.
(Plastic does have the advantage of being easily cleaned, and it's also easy to cut and drill!).
The design that follows, then, illustrates a few general principles on which you can build
depending on what materials are readily to hand and what your dry curing needs extend to.
- a medium to large plastic crate, with lid;
- as many 19mm (1.75") wooden dowelling rods as it takes to span the crate (either
lengthwise of crosswise, it doesn't matter) with about 50 mm of the rod projecting out from the
edge of the box, and allowing a gap of 15 mm (6") between each rod, and also between the end
rods and the side of the crate;
- a fan, which you can buy or scavenge (old computer fans are good) sufficient to drive a
steady stream of air through the curing box. If one fan is not enough you can use two or three –
the advantage in doing so is that the air stream comes from a number of directions, rather than
just one;
314
- some mosquito- or fly screen- mesh to prevent insects crawling into the box through the air
vents in it;
- a drip tray (if you're not using a plastic box) to fit the floor of the curing cabinet;
- a number of "S" hooks, bent out of galvanised wire, from which to hang the - meat while
drying;
- a drill to drill holes in the sides of the cabinet to accommodate the ends of the dowelling
rods;
- a sharp craft or modelling knife, or a hole saw, to cut vent holes in the lid of the drying box,
and also a hole to accommodate the fan in the side of the box;
- quick-drying epoxy glue for affixing the screen cloth over the vent holes.
The curing cabinet in cutaway perspective is illustrated at the end of the construction steps,
which follow:
STEP 1 – hold the fan (or fans) against one side of the curing box, about 50mm (2") up from
the bottom, and mark where the holes for the mounting screws need to be drilled; then cut an
aperture into the side of the cabinet for each fan that you're using;
STEP 2 measure down from the lip of the box about 50 mm and mark a line along which the
holes required for the dowelling rods need to be drilled. Make sure the gaps between the
holes are at least 15 mm, and that the holes on one side of the box are a mirror image of the
holes in the other side. Then drill the holes to provide a tight fit around the ends of the
dowelling rods;
STEP 3 – mark the lid of the box to take as many air vents as will fit 15 mm (6") apart, and
drill or cut 35mm (+-1.5") vent holes (5) through the lid (2);
315
STEP 4 – cut a piece of screen mesh to fit the inside of the lid, and glue it down over the vent
holes;
STEP 5 – fit the fan/s to the side of the curing box, as shown in the top plan view of the box
below, with arrows "a" showing the direction of the air stream;
STEP 6 – push the dowelling rods (3) through the holes in the sides of the box, so the ends of
the rods project out either side by about 50mm (2");
...and you're ready to go. Once the meat, or sausages, have been seasoned and/or marinated,
hang them from the rods, ensuring that they don't touch one another. (This is important to
prevent mould from forming!).
Even if you are using a plastic crate for your curing box, it's good practice to line the floor of
the box with a sheet of heavy duty foil to catch any drips. The foil can be changed as often as
necessary.
316
The curing box is shown below in cutaway view, with strips of biltong or jerky (6) hanging to
cure. Arrow "a" shows the air stream drawn through the fan/s (4), which should be fitted with
a filter to screen out dust and other air borne particles:
The essence of dry curing is to hang the meat being dried in a cool, DRY stream of air.
Humidity is anathema to a good cure, and if you intend to cure food in an environment which is
consistently damp (at the coast, for example) you need to dry the air artificially.
A reasonably inexpensive way to do this is to pass the air stream over an incandescent lamp,
and many curing boxes have a lamp inside the box – partly to dry the air, and partly to provide
convection and so move the air about.
We think that warming the air flies in the face of the need to keep it cool, and prefer to warm
and dry it outside the box – in much the same way that an offset firebox cools smoke before it
enters the smoke chamber – and use a fan to move the air about.
To do this we recommend providing a lamp box separate from the curing box, in the manner
illustrated below ...
... where a suitable plastic or wooden box (7) attached to the side of the curing box (1)
contains an incandescent lamp (9) over which an airstream "a" is sucked through a filter (8).
317
The air is dried by the lamp, but has time to cool down, at least partially, before entering the
drying box (1).
Going Mobile
Where you just don't have space for a permanent smokehouse, or where you want to be able to
move your smoker around, it's helpful to have some form of cart or trailer.
With smokers where the firebox or smoke generator and the smoking chamber are contained in
a single unit (in a vertical/water smoker, or small box smoker, for example) one of the
simplest ways to do this is to mount your smoker on a stripped-down, discarded wheelbarrow
frame.
Photo: Wheelbarrow by John Loo: Flickr Creative Commons

NOTE 1: It's preferable to have a metal wheel on the barrow. If the wheel has a solid or
inflatable rubber tyre, make sure that there is a sufficiently large gap between the tyre and the
bottom of the smoker to avoid any possibility of the rubber melting.
NOTE 2: The wheelbarrow-cart adaptation is only suitable for smaller smokers. As the
smoker gets taller, and its centre of gravity shifts upward, so the wheelbarrow becomes
progressively less stable. You don't want your smoker to tip sideways – particularly when a
fire is going, and the smoker is loaded with comestibles!
As an alternative to a wheelbarrow you could consider using a porter's-type trolley, with a
sheet of steel welded onto it to form a floor. Because it has four wheels, and is thus supported
on its four corners, it is inherently much more stable:
318
Photo: Luggage Cart Amtrak Station Hollywood by Phillip Pessar: Flickr Creative Commons

In several places, above, we have referred to the importance of thoroughly drying salted and
seasoned food before cold-smoking it. (In our view, most food types processed with
conventional hot-smoking also benefit from pre-drying).
The reason for air-drying before cold-smoking, in particular, is twofold: first, as a first pass in
removing the moisture in which bacteria like to live; and, second, to prevent the food from
getting pulpy during the smoking process.
Fish, in particular, should be air-dried until a shiny glaze forms (like a second skin) on the
outside of the seasoned flesh.
To assist in air-drying a simple drying rack can be used, as illustrated below.
- 2 lengths of timber, +- 2.5 m x 50mm x 100mm (about 8ft x 2" x 4";
- 7 lengths of timber, +- 550mm x 50mm x 25mm (about 22" x 2" x 1")
- Screws (preferably brass) to affix the shorter lengths of timber to the longer;
- Nails +- 120 mm long.
319
320
We gratefully acknowledge the contribution of illustrations used in the book, in the order in
which they appear, by the following individuals, corporations and institutions:
COVER, FRONTISPIECE AND CHAPTER FOOTERS:
Barbecue by alisdair: Flickr Creative Commons
AUTHOR'S NOTE
H. Forman Smoked Salmon with Homemade Bagels by Beck (Girl Interrupted Eating): Flickr
Creative Commons
Rendezvous-Hams by Southern Foodways Alliance: Flickr Creative Commons
Hunting-With-The-Boys by Bob G (rjg329): Flickr Creative Commons
TABLE OF CONTENTS
The Chef by Bev Sykes (basykes): Flickr Creative Commons
Logs by Timothy Crawshaw (crows_wood): Flickr Creative Commons
Dried Fish by ume-y: Flickr Creative Commons
Hunting-With-The-Boys by Bob G (rjg329): Flicker Creative Commons
rib closeup by Daryn Nakhuda (ddaarryynn): Flickr Creative Commons
Chicken by SMcGarnigle; Flickr Creative Commons
Turkey in snow by Justin Russell (nightthree); Flickr Creative Commons
Greater Sage-Grouse by USFWS Pacific Southwest (Pacific Southwest Region): Flickr
Creative Commons
Fish by malias (Gideon): Flickr Creative Commons
mussels petals by Natalie (natamagat); Flickr Creative Commons
aubergine by gomagoti; Flickr Creative Commons
Tapas by Jessica Spengler (WordRidden): Flickr Creative Commons
Roasted Carrot Soup by Joy (joyosity): Flickr Creative Commons
Jerky 756 by Larry Jacobsen (ljguitar): Flickr Creative Commons
321
Hams Drying in the Meat House, Ghent by Bas Leenders (BasL): Flickr Creative Commons
Guaniale by Joy (joyosity): Flickr Creative Commons
TO OUR READERS: A SUGGESTION ON HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
Domestic Life by Marc Banks (L'eau Bleu): Flickr Creative Commons
The Simplest Workflow Diagram Ever by doryfour: Flickr Creative Commons
Smoked Fish by dennis and aimee jonez: Flickr Creative Commons
Teamwork by Paul Sableman (Pasa47): Flickr Creative Commons
Creative Commons
Detail from: "Sailing-Ships"(c.1886-1890) – Constantinos Volanakis by Tilemahos
Efthimiadis
A barrel and a few more by simon***: Flickr Creative Commons
The Chef by Bev Sykes (basykes): Flickr Creative Commons
Smoker photo by Pitt's and Spitt's, Houston, Texas
Smoked Fish by dennis and aimee jonez: Flickr Creative Commons
small gardens by Rachel Bernadette: Flickr Creative Commons
Almost Ready by dinner series: Flickr Creative Commons
Indian Camp courtesy of Rexburg Historical Society (Yellow River Valley): Flickr Creative
Commons
Smoker photo by Bradley Smoker, Delta, BC Canada
Cast iron smoker box photo by Char-Broil, a division of W.C.Bradley Co, Columbus, Georgia
Smokey Mountain Cooker photo by Weber Stephen Products LLC
Cast iron smoker box photo by Char-Broil, a division of W.C.Bradley Co, Columbus, Georgia
Stove Top Smoker photo by Cameron Products, Colorado Springs, Colorado
Smoker and bricked-in pit photo by BBQ Pits by Klose, Houston, Texas
322
Offset Smoker photo by Char-Broil, a division of W.C.Bradley Co, Columbus, Georgia
Traditional Smoker photo by Gator Pit of Texas, LP
Offset Smoker photo by Jambopits, Fort Worth, Texas
Offset Smoker photo by Medina River Outdoors by HEW Products
"Ultimate" 24 x 36 Offset Smoker photo by Pitt's and Spitt's, Houston, Texas
PM100 Offset Smoker photo by Texas Pit Crafters, Houston, Texas
Durango 20" Combination Smoker photo by Yoder Smokers, Kansas
FATBOY Vault Smoker photo by Backwoods Smoker
"Original" Electric Vault Smoker photo by Bradley Smoker, Delta, BC Canada
Cold Smoke Adapter photo by Bradley Smoker, Delta, BC Canada
Supersmoker Elite Cabinet Smoker photo by Cookshack Ponca City, Oklahoma
FEC 100 Pellet Fired Cabinet Smoker photo by Fast Eddy's, Cookshack Inc., Ponca City,
Oklahoma
Combination Grill/Oven/Smoker photo by Hasty-Bake Charcoal Ovens, Tulsa, Oklahoma
Electric Vertical Smoker courtesy MasterBuilt Columbus, Georgia
Cold Smoking Vertical Smoker Kit courtesy MasterBuilt Columbus, Georgia
BBQ Safe Vault Smoker photo by Pitmaker BBQ Vault, Houston Texas
"BABY "Vertical Smoker photo by Stump's Smokers, Centerville, Georgia
All-in-One Gas and Charcoal Smoker/Grill/Fryer photo by The Brinkmann Corporation,
Dallas, Texas
BLACK DOG Smoker photo by Landmann
7-in-1 Combination Smoker photo by MasterBuilt Columbus, Georgia
Electric Vertical Water Smoker photo by The Brinkmann Corporation, Dallas Texas
Broil King Gas Regal 440 Grill/Smoker photo by Onward Manufacturing Company Limited,
Ontario, Canada
Electrical Vertical Smoker photo by Char-Broil, a division of W.C.Bradley Co, Columbus,
Georgia
Smokey Mountain Smoker photo by Weber-Stephen Products LLC
323
Cast-Iron Smoker Box photo by Char-Broil, a division of W.C.Bradley Co, Columbus,
Georgia
Stainless Steel Smoker Box photo by Charcoal Companion, The Companion Group, Berkeley,
California
Stove Top Smoker photo by ABU Garcia, Pure Fishing (a subsidiary of Jarden Corporation
Stove Top Smoker photo by Nordic Ware, Minneapolis, MN
Max Burton Stove Top Smoker
Emson Gourmet Smoker/Cooker photo by The Emsco Group
Forman Smoked Salmon with Homemade Bagels by Beck (Girl Interrupted Eating): Flickr
Creative Commons
Cold Smoke Adapter Kit photo by Bradley Smoker, Delta, BC Canada
Digital Electric Smoker photo by MasterBuilt Columbus, Georgia
SC5832 Crate, part 2 by Patrick Finnegan (vaxomatic): Flickr Creative Commons
Bench and Barrel by Valerie Everett (edited): Flickr Creative Commons
Stray Barrel by alisdair: Flickr Creative Commons
Kitchens from the Past by Larry Jacobsen (ljguitar): Flickr Creative Commons
PART 3: FUELS
Oaken Copse by Andrew Bowden (Bods): Flickr Creative Commons
Stacked Wood in Snow 2 by Sharon Mollerus: Flickr Creative Commons
Rainbow trout about to be cleaned by sabareq: Flickr Creative Commons
Porker by Mark Fosh (foshie): Flickr Creative Commons
Deer Feeding by JohnWDavisJr: Flickr Creative Commons
Turkey in snow by Justin Russell (nightthree): Flickr Creative Commons
324
Wood Chips – Chicken on a Can 022 by J Wynia: Flickr Creative Commons
Wood chips soaking by Ted Sakshaug (tsakshaug): Flickr Creative Commons
Weber Rapidfire Charcoal Starter Chimney photo by Weber-Stephen Products LLC
One White Duck by Sheila McClune (arwensouth): Flickr Creative Commons
Marinade Injection Syringe photo by Weston
Northern Pike by wormbumper: Flickr Creative Commons
Smoking trout at highland games, inveraray by Cok Francken (cfrancken): Flickr Creative
Commons
Pheasant by Stewart Black: Flickr Creative Commons
Brook Trout by U.S.Fish and Wildlife Service – Midwest Region (USFWSmidwest): Flickr
Creative Commons
rusty barrel by Anthony (pfarrell95) : Flickr Creative Commons
Bamboo Steamers photo by Fox Run Brands, EKCO-PAO* and NORPRO
Basting Mops and Brushes photo by GrillPro and Charcoal Companion
Barbecue Sprayer photo by Solo Products
Charcoal Starter Chimneys photo by Weber-Stephen Products LLC, Charbroil and Charcoal
Companion
Chicken Beer Can Roasters photo by Charbroil, and NORPRO
Wire Grill Cleaning Brushes photo by NORPRO and Weber-Stephen Products LLC
Spice Grinders photo by KRUPS and Cuisinart
Log Grabber photo by Landmann
325
Long Bladed Fish Lifter photo by OXO
Insulated Leather Gloves photo by Northline Express
Neoprene Supported Heat Resistant Gloves photo by Kitchen Grips
Meat Grinder photo by LEM Products
Muffin Pan photo by Fox Run Brands
Pestle and Mortar photo by CILIO
Marinade Injection Syringes photo by Weston and GrillPro
Grill/Pit Thermometer photo by River Country
Vacuum Packing and Sealing Machine photo by Foodsaver
Fukushima Food Processor by Ray Larabie: Flickr Creative Commons
PART 7: FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD! (With the Emphasis on Barbecue)
rib closeup and Smoked Turkey by Daryn Nakhuda (ddaarryynn) : Flickr Creative Commons
weather-icon-set_500x500 by Ilya Sedykh (Schmector) : Flickr Creative Commons
Play Safe or YOU WILL DIE by Paul Downey (psd) : Flickr Creative Commons
rubbed by Daryn Nakhuda (ddaarryynn) : Flickr Creative Commons
Porker by Mark Fosh (foshie): Flickr Creative Commons
Not Bevo by Calsidyrose: Flickr Creative Commons
Homemade hamburgers by Simon (BBQ Grill Maestro) : Flickr Creative Commons
Sheep by Marilyn Peddle (marilynjane) : Flickr Creative Commons
Deer Feeding by JohnWDavisJr: Flickr Creative Commons
Chicken by SMcGarnigle; Turkey in snow by Justin Russell (nightthree); and California Quail
by Sid Mosdell (SidPix): :Flickr Creative Commons
Chicken by SMcGarnigle: Flickr Creative Commons
326
Chicken Beer Can Roaster photo by NORPRO
rabbit by Sean Winters (theseanster93): Flickr Creative Commons
Smoked Turkey by Daryn Nakhuda (ddaarryynn): Flickr Creative Commons
One White Duck by Sheila McClune (arwensouth): Flickr Creative Commons
California Quail by Sid Mosdell (SidPix): :Flickr Creative Commons
Pheasant by Stewart Black; and Greater Sage-Grouse by USFWS Pacific Southwest (Pacific
Southwest Region): Flickr Creative Commons
mussels petals by Natalie (natamagat); Clams by japharl; and Fresh Shrimp by Tony Alter
(Tobyotter): Flickr Creative Commons
Nootka Soound Oysters by Chefs-Resources by David (theages): Flickr Creative Commons
aubergine by gomagoti; Bulb of Garlic by jE norton (lowjumpingfrog); and Bananas (edited)
by 24oranges.nl): Flickr Creative Commons
Bananas (edited) by 24oranges.nl; Mangoes! By Joy (joyosity); and papaya by Janine
(nemuneko.jc): Flickr Creative Commons
Mixed Nuts #shoot1230 by Ishikawa Ken (chidorian): Flickr Creative Commons
Tapas by Jessica Spengler (WordRidden): Flickr Creative Commons
cheese platter by Andrea Goh; and Roasted Carrot Soup by Joy (joyosity): Flickr Creative
Commons
PART 8: DRY AND SALT CURING
2006-03-04-13-15-54 by WmJR: Flickr Creative Commons
Knife sharpening by David Davies:
Marinated for around 10 hours by Arnold Gatilao (arnold | inuyaki): Flickr Creative
Commons
Spicy by Gajman: Flickr Creative Commons
327
Wind-dried meat with chilli by Alpha (avlxyz): Flickr Creative Commons
All dried out... by Arnold Gatilao (arnold | inuyaki): Flickr Creative Commons
sausage casings and meat by Rachel Tayse: Flickr Creative Commons
stuffing sausage by Southern Foodways Alliance: Flickr Creative Commons
Jamon Serrano and Jameron Iberico by Adam Jones (Adam Jones PhD): Flickr Creative
Commons
Knife sharpening by David Davies: Flickr Creative Commons
Wanna taste? By Mar10os: Flickr Creative Commons
Serrano Ham Figs by Kurman Communications (kurmanstaff): Flickr Creative Commons
Guanciale by Jeffrey_Allen: Flickr Creative Commons
Pig Jowls in the Pantry by A. Drauglis: Flickr Creative Commons
Pig Jowl Pizza by Carly Lesser & Art Drauglis (Carly & Art): Flickr Creative Commons
Instructions rather than Explanations.
The Simplest Workflow Diagram Ever by doryfour: Flickr Creative Commons
Smoker photo by Bradley Smoker, Delta, BC Canada
Smokey Mountain Cooker photo by Weber-Stephen Products LLC
Cast Iron Smoker Box photo by Char-Broil, a division of W.C.Bradley Co, Columbus, Georgia
weather-icon-set_500x500 by Ilya Sedykh (Schmector): Flickr Creative Commons
Searing the Porterhouse Steak by Naotake Murayama (naotakem): Flickr Creative Commons
328
Play Safe or YOU WILL DIE by Paul Downey (psd): Flickr Creative Commons
Creative Commons
Northern Pike by wormbumper: Flickr Creative Commons
Cold Smoke Adapter photo by Bradley Smoker, Delta, BC Canada
Salt the salmon with rock sea salt; and Rub the salt inside the salmon; both by Kai Hendry:
BBQ Grill by Ian Stannard (Silly Little Man): Flickr Creative Commons
Flexible Chimney Flue by Chris RubberDragon (Rubber Dragon): Flickr Creative Commons
SC5832 Crate, part 2 by Patrick Finnegan (vaxomatic); Bench and Barrel by Valerie Everett;
Stray Barrel by alisdair; and Kitchens from the Past by Larry Jacobsen (ljguitar): Flickr
Creative Commons
Play Safe or YOU WILL DIE by Paul Downey (psd): Flickr Creative Commons
Grinders with Coffee by Randen Pederson (chefranden): Flickr Creative Commons
Fukushima Food Processor by Ray Larabie: Flickr Creative Commons
Play Safe or YOU WILL DIE by Paul Downey (psd): Flickr Creative Commons FCC
Seven hours in by mikedevlin: Flickr Creative Commons
Wood Chips – Chicken on a Can 022 by J Wynia: Flickr Creative Commons
Wood chips soaking byTed Sakshaug (tsakshaug) and Cast Iron Smoker Box photo by Char-
Broil, a division of W.C.Bradley Co, Columbus, Georgia: Flickr Creative Commons
Wood Chips – Chicken on a Can 022 by J Wynia; and Wood chips soaking by Ted Sakshaug
(tsakshaug): Flickr Creative Commons
Wood Chips Soaking by Ted Sakshaug (tsakshaug): Flickr Creative Commons; and Cast Iron
Smoker Box photo by Char-Broil, a division of W.C.Bradley Co, Columbus, Georgia
329
Remains of First Base by Natalie Maynor: Flickr Creative Commons
Charcoal Starter Chimney photo by Charbroil
Spice Grinder photo by Cuisinart
Bamboo Steamer photo by EKCO-PAO* used under permission by World Kitchen, LLC.
Pestle and Mortar photo by CILIO
rusty barrel by Anthony (pfarrell95): Flickr Creative Commons
Marinated for around 10 hours by Arnold Gatilao (arnold | inuyaki): Flickr Creative
Commons
Spicy by Gajman: Flickr Creative Commons
Wind-dried meat with chilli by Alpha (avlxyz): Flickr Creative Commons
sausage casings and meat by Rachel Tayse: Flickr Creative Commons
stuffing sausage by Southern Foodways Alliance: Flickr Creative Commons
Jamon Serrano and Jameron Iberico by Adam Jones (Adam Jones PhD): Flickr Creative
Commons
330
Wanna taste? By Mar10os: Flickr Creative Commons
Serrano Ham Figs by Kurman Communications (kurmanstaff): Flickr Creative Commons
Pig Jowl Pizza by Carly Lesser & Art Drauglis (Carly & Art): Flickr Creative Commons
DSC_0481 by Tony Harrison (tonylanciabeta): Flickr Creative Commons
house bricks by Steve Johnson (Steve A Johnson); and Cement by Gaby Av (_fidelio_):
Plastic by Danielle Scott: Flickr Creative Commons
Stray Barrel by alisdair: Flickr Creative Commons
An Old Hotplate by Matt Grommes (MattGrommes): Flickr Creative Commons
Flexible Chimney Flue by Chris RubberDragon (Rubber Dragon): Flickr Creative Commons
Brick Wall Texture by Patrick Hoesly (Patrick Hoesly) Flickr Creative Commons
Muffin Pan photo by Fox Run Brands
Long Rebar BW by Brian Birke: Flickr Creative Commons
Wood burning stove by Valerie Everett: Flickr Creative Commons
Luggage Cart Amtrak Station Hollywood by Phillip Pessar: Flickr Creative Commons
Our washing machine broke...by Paul Stainthorp: Flickr Creative Commons
Wheelbarrow by John Loo: Flickr Creative Commons
Bench and Barrel by Valerie Everett (edited): Flickr Creative Commons
SC5832 Crate, part 2 by Patrick Finnegan (vaxomatic): Flickr Creative Commons
Kettle by VladimerShioshvili (shioshvili): Flickr Creative Commons
Wheelbarrow by John Loo: Flickr Creative Commons
Luggage Cart Amtrak Station Hollywood by Phillip Pessar: Flickr Creative Commons
331
332
RECOMMENDED READING
Here is a list of books you could consider adding to your bookshelves:
Smoke and Spice: Cooking with Smoke, the Real Way to Barbecue by Cheryl Alters Jamison
and Bill Jamison;
Big Bob Gibson's BBQ Book: Recipes and Secrets from a Legendary Barbecue Joint by
Chris Lilly;
Smokin' with Myron Mixon: Recipes Made Simple, from the Winningest Man in Barbecue
by Myron Mixon, Kelly Alexander and Paula Deen;
Smoking Meat: The Essential Guide to Real Barbecue by Jeff Phillips;
The Barbecue! Bible by Steven Raichlen;
Slow Fire: The Beginner's Guide to Barbecue by Ray "DR. BARBECUE" Lampe;
Cold Smoking & Salt Curing Meat, Fish, & Game (A.D. Livingston Cookbook) by A.D.
Livingston.
333
Table of Contents
Author's Note
Dedication
About the Author
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
PART 3: FUELS
5. Charcoal
5. "Wild" Smoking
Rubs and Pastes:
Marinades:
Mops and Bastes:
Sauces:
Injection Liquids:
2. MEAT.
2.1. Pork:
2.2. Beef:
2.4. Veal:
2.5. Venison:
334
- Chicken:
- Turkey:
- Duck:
4. FISH.
9. MAINTENANCE, CLEANING, HYGIENE AND PERSONAL PROTECTION.
1. DESCRIPTION
2 METHODS OF CURING
3 DRY CURING
4 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE DRY-CURING PROCESS.
6 JERKY AND BILTONG
7 DRIED SAUSAGE AND "DROEWORS" METHODS AND RECIPES:
8 DRY-CURED HAM (PROSCIUTTO) METHODS AND RECIPES:
9 DRY-CURED BACONS (PANCETTA, GUANCIALE, ETC) METHODS AND RECIPES:
Instructions rather than Exp...
EQUIPMENT:
FOOD:
RECIPES:
SAFETY AND HYGIENE:
TEMPERATURES:
DRY-AND SALT-CURING
JERKY AND BILTONG
DRIED SAUSAGE ("DROEWORS") METHODS AND RECIPES:
DRY-CURED HAM (PROSCIUTTO) METHODS AND RECIPES:
335
DRY-CURED BACONS (PANCETTA, GUANCIALE, ETC) METHODS AND RECIPES:
(Materials, Assembly Instructions and Construction Details – From Smallest to Largest)
Construction and Metalworking Basics
Going Mobile
336

Really Simple Cold Smoking, BBQ and Salt Curing at Home

Hochgeladen von

Dokumentinformationen

Originaltitel

Copyright

Verfügbare Formate

Dieses Dokument teilen

Dokument teilen oder einbetten

Freigabeoptionen

Stufen Sie dieses Dokument als nützlich ein?

Sind diese Inhalte unangemessen?

Copyright:

Verfügbare Formate

Really Simple Cold Smoking, BBQ and Salt Curing at Home

Hochgeladen von

Copyright:

Verfügbare Formate

REALLY SIMPLE

Cold Smoking, BBQ

Cover Photo: Barbecue by alisdair: Flickr Creative Commons

Photo: The Chef by Bev Sykes (basykes): Flickr Creative Commons

Photo: Logs by Timothy Crawshaw (crows_wood): Flickr Creative Commons

Photo: Dried Fish by ume-y: Flickr Creative Commons

Photo: Hunting-With-The-Boys by Bob G (rjg329): Flicker Creative Commons

Rubs and Pastes:

Photo: rib closeup by Daryn Nakhuda (ddaarryynn): Flickr Creative Commons

Photo: Fish by malias (Gideon): Flickr Creative Commons

Photo: mussels petals by Natalie (natamagat); Flickr Creative Commons

Photo: Tapas by Jessica Spengler (WordRidden): Flickr Creative Commons

Photo Roasted Carrot Soup by Joy (joyosity): Flickr Creative Commons

Photo: Rendezvous-Hams by Southern Foodways Alliance: Flickr Creative Commons

Photo: Jerky 756 by Larry Jacobsen (ljguitar): Flickr Creative Commons

(Materials, Assembly Instructions and Construction Details – From Smallest to

1. Broadening the Smokehouse Experience.

2. Titillating and Teasing with Differing Tastes and Flavours.

2.1 Flavour Modifiers

Photo: Teamwork by Paul Sableman (Pasa47): Flickr Creative Commons

c. Seasonings – the Hot-Smoke Artist's Palette...

4. Food Preservation: A great Alternative to Freezing

Photos (l to r): Detail from: "Sailing-Ships"(c.1886-1890) – Constantinos Volanakis by

5. Self-Fulfilment (and a Licence to Brag – a Little!).

Photo: The Chef by Bev Sykes (basykes): Flickr Creative Commons

2. Commercially Produced or Home-Made Equipment?

Photo: Almost Ready by dinner series: Flickr Creative Commons

Photo Bradley Smoker, Delta, BC Canada

c. General Purpose Gas and Charcoal Grills

Photo Weber Stephen Products LLC

e. Stove-Top Smokers and Smoker Boxes

Photo Char-Broil, a division of W.C.Bradley Co, Columbus, Georgia

Photo Cameron Products, Colorado Springs, Colorado

a. Specialised Pits and Ovens

Photos BBQ Pits by Klose, Houston, Texas

Photo Gator Pit of Texas, LP

Photo Jambopits, Fort Worth, Texas

Photo Pitt's and Spitt's, Houston, Texas

Photo Yoder Smokers, Kansas

b. Cabinet, Vault or Box Smokers

Photo Bradley Smoker, Delta, BC Canada

Photos Bradley Smoker, Delta, BC Canada

Photo Cookshack Inc., Ponca City, Oklahoma

Photo Fast Eddy's, Cookshack Inc., Ponca City, Oklahoma

Photo MasterBuilt Columbus, Georgia

Photo Pitmaker BBQ Vault, Houston Texas

Photo Stump's Smokers, Centerville, Georgia

c. General Purpose Electric, Gas and Charcoal Grills

Photo The Brinkmann Corporation, Dallas, Texas

d. Vertical and Water Smokers

Photo Onward Manufacturing Company Limited, Ontario, Canada

Photo Weber-Stephen Products LLC

Photo Char-Broil, a division of W.C.Bradley Co, Columbus, Georgia

Photo ABU Garcia, Pure Fishing (a subsidiary of Jarden Corporation

Photo Cameron Products, Colorado Springs, Colorado

Photo Nordic Ware, Minneapolis, MN

Photo The Emsco Group

b. Permanent Pits, Vaults and Smoker Cabinets

4.2. COLD-SMOKING ... EVEN SLOWER, AND EVEN LOWER!

Photo MasterBuilt Columbus, Georgia

Photo: Logs by Timothy Crawshaw (crows_wood): Flickr Creative Commons

Photo: Oaken Copse by Andrew Bowden (Bods): Flickr Creative Commons

1. The Chemistry of Smoke: