Maheshwar Through Our

CERTIFICATE
–
This is to certify that the work embodied in this report entitled “Cluster
Report‘ is a record of study carried out by six students under guidance of the
undersigned for the fulfillment of the requirement of the subject “Cluster
Visit” at National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhopal (M.P.) India. To the
best of our knowledge and belief the report embodies work of the candidates,
completed in all respect and is up to the desired standard both in contents and
language for being referred to the external examiners.

Dr. Rajdeep Singh Khanuja

FMS Department
NIFT BHOPAL
2
 UNDERTAKING
–
Title of the Report : Cluster Report
The undersigned hereby undertakes that the cluster report work carried out and
subsequently produced in this report is our original work and thus, undertaken by us.
We hereby assign all the rights under copyright to NIFT Bhopal (M.P.) that may
exist in. Further, if any work/content in this report is later on found to be copied
from any other source, the institute may take appropriate action as desired as per it‘s
rules.
Akanksha Kumari
Banasmita Barik
Manusmriti Bajpai
Rhea Tomar
Shriya Gupta
Tanya Sharma
3
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
–

We would like to thank Dr. Rajdeep Singh Khanuja , Assistant Professor,

Department of Fashion Management Studies, National Institute of Fashion
Technology, Bhopal (M.P.) for his time and valuable guidance. We would also like
to express our gratitude to the faculty of Fashion Management Studies Department
for their valuable support and guidance at every stage.

4
 Index
S.No Title Page No.
Introduction 5
1
Origin and History 11
2
Source of Inspiration 15
3
Weaving Process 18
4
Tools used for Production 21
5
Present day scenario 27
6
Study of Product Mix 29
7
Case Study 49
8
5
INTRODUCTION

6
The word Maheshwar in Hindi means Great God, an epithet
of Lord Shiva. Maheshwar is a town in Khargone district
of Madhya Pradesh state, in central India. It is located 13 km
east of National Highway 3 (Agra-Mumbai highway) and
91 km from Indore, the commercial capital of the state. The
town lies on the north bank of the Narmada River. It was the
capital of the Malwa during the Maratha Holkar reign till 6
January 1818 A.D, when the capital was shifted to Indore by
Malhar Rao Holkar III. The quintessential saree has remained
one of the most favorite canvasses for Indian weavers.
Craftsmen from all over the country have found an
unadulterated freedom of expression in this nine yards
of fabric, and perhaps this is why India is home to some
of the finest handloom fabric traditions since time
immemorial.
7
8
One such beautiful weave, the Maheshwari
saree, comes from Maheshwar, a city in
Khargone district of Madhya Pradesh.–
With its rich history, the town falls right in
line with its famed Maheshwari fabric.

Maheshwari Saree is a cotton and pure silk

fabric woven with zari or brocade in varied
designs. These designs include stripes,
checks and floral borders. Originating from
the town of Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh,
Maheshwari fabric is mainly used in
designing Maheshwari Sarees, other than
dupattas and dress material for Salwar Maheshwar temple on
Kameez. the banks of river
Narmada
9
Origin and History
–

10
Maheshwar is believed to be
build on the site of the ancient
city of Somvanshya Shastrarjun
Kshatriya, and was the capital of
king KartaviryaArjuna,(Shree
Shastrarjun) who is mentioned in
the Sanskrit epics Ramayana and
Mahabharata. Let’s give you a
peek back in time. Banks of River Narmada
A centre for prime handloom weaving since the 5th Century, Maheshwar, an
ancient town on the banks of Narmada, was originally the capital of the
Malwas during the Maratha Holkar reign till January 1818, and enjoyed a
considerably elevated status in terms of royal interests. It was this
encouragement by the royal family that the Maheshwari saree came into
being. 11
The beautiful conception of the Maheshwari saree
dates back to 18th century Madhya Pradesh. These
sarees were first found and produced in the town of
Maheshwar, hence the name. These sarees were
initially made of pure Silk, but with the passage of
time, Cotton was also one of the major fabrics used
for these exquisitely designed sarees.

It was the queen herself who designed the first

saree. Maheshwari sarees with Zari
Border

Following this, Maheshwari sarees became

extremely popular in and around Madhya Pradesh.
The interesting legend behind these sarees is of
Queen Ahilyabai Holkar who ordered various
craftsman and artisans from Malwa and Surat to
design a special saree with 9 yards, which later came
to be known as the Maheshwari saree. These sarees
were supposed to be a special gift for the royal
relatives and guests who visited the palace.
12
Legend has it that Rani Ahilya Bai Holkar employed a special
team of craftsmen from Surat and Malwa to design an exclusive
nine yard saree that could be gifted to her relatives and guests
who visited the palace. With the first saree conceived and
designed by Her Highness herself, Maheshwari sarees went on to
become a huge hit in the royal and aristocratic circle.

Following this, the production

of Maheshwari sarees caught
up, and these graceful sarees
soon started becoming popular
with women of all ages.
Today, this beautiful textile is
one of the best sellers in both
Weaving at Rewa
national and international Society
13
markets!
Source of
Source of Inspiration
Inspiration

14
The grandeur of the forts in Madhya Pradesh and their designs
is what played an important role in inspiring the technique,
weaves and motifs on the Maheshwari saree. Some of these
popular designs include the Mat pattern, which is also known as
‘chattai’ pattern, along with ‘Chameli ka phool’ which is
inspired by the Chameli flower.

One can also see the ‘Eent’ pattern which is basically a brick
and ‘heera’, which is a diamond. These motifs and designs have
not lost their prestigious place on the Maheshwari sarees and
are still a common design found all over, and in large varieties.

AND MAHESHWARI FORT WAS A GREAT

INSPIRATION
15
M
o
t
i
f
s
C
a
r
v
e
d
A
t
A
h
i
l
y
a
F
o
r
t

16
Weaving
Process

17
Two types of handlooms are used in Maheshwar – the older pit looms which
are heavy and fixed, and the newer frame looms with lightweight metal frames.
The latter is the more popular type now. The dyed and untangled yarn is now
ready for the tedious and time-consuming process of weaving by master
weavers. After dyeing, the yarn is normally received by the weavers in the form
of bundles.

Both in the case of weft and the warp, the thread needs to be freed from tangles
and stretched in order to make them tighter. They are then are taken through a
process of reeling by using a charkha, thus converting the bundles into small
rolls. In case of warp, a big motorized charkha is used; in case of weft, a small,
hand‐driven charkha is used, which makes bobbins.

18
In the case of the warping of the silk threads, a more delicate process involving an
octagonal cylindrical frame and hooks is used .The fabric was dyed with naturally
extracted colours and zari and kinari was used to enhance the richness of this weave.
Weavers also used gold or silver threads and gemstones to embellish the intricate
patterns and add shimmer to the saree. However, now copper coated nylon wires
have replaced the zari and time constraints leave little room for the process of slow
natural dyeing. Apart from sarees, Maheshwari fabric today is used for kurtas, shirts,
stoles, dupattas, etc. Since the fabric is airy and lightweight, outfits made of this
fabric are perfect for the Indian weather, making them an absolute favorite.

19
Tools used for Production

20
The various tools that are used in Maheshwari handloom are as
follows: 

1. Taana or Warp Machine 

The warp machine is made of two basic parts. One is a big
octagonal cylinder that rotates on its axis (which is very different
from other warp machines in the sense that this cylinder is
vertical), and the other is a vertical rack on which a number of
thread rolls are placed. The rolls pass to the cylinder of the
machine through hooks under a constantly moving frame that
helps wind the cylinder in a crisscross manner. 
2. Handloom
Two types of handlooms are used in Maheshwar—the older pit
looms and the newer frame looms. 
21
W

E
A
V
I
N
G

T
H
E

A
R
T

O
F

I
N
D
I
A

22
2.1 Pit Looms 
These are the type of looms originally used for Maheshwari weaving
since historical times. These heavy, wooden looms are installed inside a
pit, about 3 feet deep. The weaver has to sit on the wall of this pit, with
his legs inside. The looms are permanently installed in these pits and
have hardly moved from their place for many years. 
2.2 Frame Looms
These looms are the newer ones, with lightweight metal frames that
constitute the main body. Few of the advantages of frame looms are:
• They are lightweight, requiring less effort by the weaver
• They are easily detachable and therefore can be shifted for
rearrangements 
etc. 
• They have a pulley arrangement that gives better finishing to the
borders of the sari. 
23
P
R
O
D
U
C
T
I
O
N
24
3. Charkha 
A charkha is used for making the rolls of thread.
In case of warp, it is a big motorized one, which
prepares big silk rolls. In case of weft, it is the
smaller wooden one which prepares thin rolls
called bobbins. These are put inside the shuttle to
form the weft. 

Dyeing
Process
4. Dyeing Machines/Apparatus 
These mainly include various types
of dyes and the tubs in which the
Charkha : The oldest
handloom
dyeing is carried out. 
25
Present Day Scenario

26
Following India’s Independence, the Maheshwari industry saw
a major decline. However, in 1979, the Holkars of this region
founded the Rehwa society to revive the dying craft. Rehwa
aimed at providing the women of this region employment
while saving an ancient craft that distinguished the historical
town.

Today, over 130 weavers produce over a lakh of fine fabric a

year which is highly coveted by top notch designers in the
country. Consistent efforts by the government in the form of
schemes and benefits also encourage weavers to work and
pass on their knowledge to the next generation which keeps
this art alive.
27
 Study of
Product Mix
28
Product mix, also known as product assortment or product
portfolio, refers to the complete set of products and/or
services offered by a firm. A product mix consists of
product lines, which are associated items
that consumers tend to use together or think of as similar
products or services.

29
 Dimensions of a Product Mix
Width
Width, also known as breadth, refers to the number of product lines that is offered by
the firm.

Length
Length refers to the total number of products in a firm’s product mix.

Depth
Depth refers to the number of variations within a product line.

Consistency
Consistency refers to how closely related each product lines are to each other. It is in
reference to their use, production, and distribution channels. The consistency of
product mix is advantageous for firms attempting to position themselves as a niche
producer or distributor.
30
 Maheshwar Saree 
The quintessential saree has remained one of the most favorite
canvasses for Indian weavers. Craftsmen from all over the
country have found an freedom of expression in this nine
yards of fabric, and perhaps this is why India is home to some
of the finest handloom fabric traditions since time
immemorial. One such beautiful weave, the Maheshwari
saree, comes from Maheshwar, a city in Khargone district of
Madhya Pradesh.

Maheshwari Saree is a cotton and pure

silk fabric woven with zari or brocade
in varied designs. These designs
include stripes, checks and floral
borders. 31
32
Source of inspiration behind Maheshwari
sarees
The grandeur of the forts in Madhya Pradesh and their designs
is what played an important role in inspiring the technique,
weaves and motifs on the Maheshwari saree. Some of these
popular designs include the Mat pattern, which is also known
as ‘chattai’ pattern, along with ‘Chameli ka phool’ which is
inspired by the Chameli flower.

One can also see the ‘Eent’ pattern which is basically a brick
and ‘heera’, which is a diamond. These motifs and designs
have not lost their prestigious place on the Maheshwari sarees
and are still a common design found all over, and in large
varieties.
33
 Motifs Used  
Maheshwari sarees are renowned by their vibrant colors,
unusual combinations and distinctive designs that include
stripes, checks and floral borders. Authentic Maheshwari
saree have designs that are inspired by the grand temples,
palaces and forts of Madhya Pradesh sarees.
Motifs fig.1

Popular designs include the mat pattern, which

is also known as   chattai   pattern, along
with Chameli ka phool — all of which may be
traced back to the detailing on the walls of
Maheshwar Fort. Through its evolution,
the   eent   (brick) pattern and
the   heera   (diamond) patterns have survived
Motifs fig.2 the test of time, and still have a strong
presence in these. 34
Designs Scarved over Ahilaya
Fort Walls

35
Designs of Motifs weaved on Maheshwari
Sarees

36
Raw Materials 37
The raw material for Maheshwar handloom, mainly cotton, silk
and zari (golden wire), comes from different parts of the country. 
Cotton yarn for the weft is usually purchased from Coimbatore. 

Mulberry Silk is used as the

warp. This is generally
purchased from dealers in
Bangalore. The rates of silk
are very high 
Zari   is used mainly in
weaving the beautiful
Mulberry Silk borders of Maheshwar saris.
This is procured from Surat
(Gujarat)  38
Colors Used

39
Originally, Maheshwari sarees were woven in earthy shades like maroon, red, green,
purple and black. Weavers used only natural dyes for the yarn. Today, Maheshwari
fabrics are woven in many jewel tones which are derived from chemicals rather than
from flowers, roots and leaves. Popular colours today include shades of blue, mauve,
pink, yellow and orange, mixed with gold or silver thread. Subtle colours and textures
are created by using different shades in the warp and weft. Gold thread or zari is also
used in Maheshwari sarees to weave elegant motifs on the body, border and pallu .

40
Varieties Available

41
The beauty of the Maheshwari saree is that each kind of saree
under this style has a name or a term of its own, which marks its
distinctness. The sarees are either plain in the center with
exquisitely designed borders, or have checks and stripes in
different variations. There are 5 major categories
which are namely :
• Chandrakala, 
• Baingani Chandrakala,
• Chandratara, 
• Beli 
• Parbi. 
The Chandrakala and Baingani Chandrakala are the plain kind,
whereas the Chandratara, Beli and Parbi fall under the striped or
checked technique.
42
New Development 43
This craft has seen many changes,
many highs and lows. Copper coated
nylon   has replaced the pure gold
wires of zari and synthetic dyes have
replaced the limited palette of
natural colors. With   high demands
and extreme pressures on time,
dyers have to get one warp of silk
ready within an hour, leaving little
room for revival of slow natural
dyeing. There are only a handful of
craftsmen who weave the original
striped designs of the sari,
which   had a typical Marathi look,
and these are popular in
Maharashtra. Mulberry Silk
44
 FINDINGS OF PRODUCT MIX
–
•  Maheshwar artisans lack in the creativity product.

•  They lack in adding innovation in their product.

•  The gap we have Found that from past 10 years they have been
in the same pace and same product mix. They have not increased
their market as well.

•  No new technologies or design has been taught to Maheshwar

artisans.
45
 Conclusion
–
Our two days cluster visit with Maheshwar has been one of the
most interesting and productive experience. Through this visit
we have gained new insight and more comprehensive
understanding about the working condition and practice.

After going through our findings and gaps we have come up

with some suggestions for the artisans that how can they
increase their profit and develop their product mix. We have
identified where they are lacking behind compare to other
weavers of different cluster of different state.
46
 SUGESSTIONS

•  They should improve their marketing skills as much

people are not aware of it .

•  They should introduce new designs as per the trends

•  Color combination can be altered as per the taste and

preference (for example northern people have a different
taste where as southern people has different taste)

•  They can also focus on the collaborations with the

retailers.
47
CASE STUDY
On a Maheshwar Businessman

48
Life Sketch Of A Maheshwar Weaver “Lavish”

–
To maintain a father’s business is not an easy
task. To pull out of all the steps to make it
worth to maintain , is the big thing for a
person. Here we will talk about a person who
is from the very small town from Madhya
Pradesh i.e. Maheshwar and we will discuss
about how his hardships made him to be a
successful person in that small town.
Lavish with his self-
made saree
49
Lavish is from Maheshwar, a small
district in Madhya Pradesh. His father
was an entrepreneur. He led his business
in weaving and had 100 looms. Lavish
have 3 siblings and every sibling is
married to other cities. He is the youngest
among all and the only son of his family.
His mother is a housewife.

50
Lavish did his schooling from
Maheshwar. He went to Indore for the
graduation. He did his graduation in
B.Sc. in Science from Vishnu College
in Indore. After completing his
graduation, though he wanted to
pursue his career in Science and do
M.Sc. in Chemistry but somehow from
being a business background, he left
his career in Science. He then pursued
his career in designing from WSC
(Weaver Source Centre) from Varanasi.
It is a NIFT affiliated center. After
completing his designing course, he
came to Maheshwar and started Maheshwar
enhancing his own business.  Temple
51
Lavish give wages to their weaves according
to the piece they manufacture. Designs they
add in their product are from. : Narmada
lays, Kangaroo, Muthra and Aankh. These
are some of the designs that they take from
Ahilya Fort where all the designs are imprint
on it. While some new designs are designed
from Lavish itself. He tries to do new
designs and new pattern. He also decide the
new colour pattern and combination in
which he want to design. He works on
heavy material. His minimum cost of the
product starts from 2000 and maximum to
28000. He never promoted his products. He
just take samples to their clients and then
they approve upon it. Price range for whole
sale is 10-20%. They also customise
according to the customers.
52
Thankyou
53