Philippines’ jeepneys on the way out, and so

are the artists who give them their iconic

paint jobs
 Jeepneys were first made from leftover US jeeps after the second world war
 Those 15 years or older will be taken off the streets by 2020

Agence France-Presse
Published: 1:02pm, 29 Jan, 2019

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57
Hand-painting custom decor on jeepneys adorned with images of everything from Batman to babies, as well as
disco lights and chrome wheels, have for decades provided cheap transport for millions. But pollution and
safety concerns have led to a modernisation programme, with jeepneys 15 years or older to be taken off the
streets by 2020. Photo: AFP

Bernardo de la Cruz casts his eyes around the nearly silent workshop where he used to toil overtime hand-
painting custom decor on jeepneys, the singularly Philippine minibuses facing the scrap heap.

These rolling art galleries adorned with images of everything from Batman to babies, as well as disco lights
and chrome wheels, have for decades provided cheap transport for millions.

Singapore tests on-demand buses to ease congestion, as Asian cities watch

But pollution and safety concerns have led to a modernisation programme, with jeepneys 15 years or older to
be taken off the streets by 2020. “This is an act of treachery against fellow Filipinos,” said de la Cruz. “This is
a uniquely Filipino product. We were born with it.”

When he began 45 years ago, there were hundreds of artists giving the vehicles their famously boisterous paint
jobs. Now there are estimated to be fewer than a dozen left.

He has seen orders decline from a high of up to 80 a month in the 1980s to just one or two now.
A jeepney’s moving canvas slows to a crawl in Manila’s rush hour. Photo: Agence France-Presse
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His canvas is being replaced by eco-jeepneys, powered by electricity or lower-polluting diesel motors.

Riders of old jeepneys currently have to climb in through a hatch in the rear, cramming into the benches inside
with no respite from the heat and roadside pollution.

The jeepney’s successor is being billed as a big improvement. It has doors, individual seats, air-conditioning,
and enough height to stand up. But it will be mass-produced and look just like a public bus.

Skipping over the jeepney’s bespoke production process in small workshops means a loss of the individual
style and flair that made them global symbols of the Philippines.
Jeepney images provide some distraction from the pain of rush hour in Manila. Photo: Agence
France-Presse
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“It’s one of the most genuine forms of modern folk art that we have,” said Bernie Sim, a Manila-based graphic
designer and co-author of a 2014 book on jeepney art.

French fashion designer Christian Louboutin launched a jeepney-themed handbag collection last year, while
Swedish furniture giant Ikea painted a jeepney in its signature blue and yellow to announce plans to open a
Philippine store.

But the vehicles, which were first made from leftover US jeeps after the second world war, have been on
borrowed time for years.

Jeepneys are highly polluting, and the Philippines is desperate to improve air quality in its traffic -clogged
cities. Their drivers are also notorious for ignoring traffic rules, and the vehicles have few safety features.

On top of that, Manila ushered in internet-based ride-sharing services in 2014, and three years later President
Rodrigo Duterte said the jeepney must evolve or disappear.
Jeepney artist Vic Capuno at a workshop in San Pablo, Laguna province, south of Manila. Photo:
Agence France-Presse
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“They have all but stopped making jeepneys,” said 52-year-old jeepney artist Vic Capuno, based in San Pablo
town south of Manila. As a result he and a colleague at Armak Motors now paint just three of four jeepneys a
month.

De la Cruz worked on nine in the past year. He’s the only painter left at Manila’s Sarao Motors, once the
country’s biggest producer.

Two of his siblings were also jeepney artists, but they died from diseases he believes were caused by years
inhaling fumes from the paint. Yet he is still passionate about the vehicle’s importance in Philippine history.

“When the jeepney disappears a piece of Filipino culture will also die,” de la Cruz warned.

A self-taught painter, he was inspired by the work of local artists such Carlos Francisco and Fernando
Amorsolo.
A depiction of Jesus Christ painted on the door of a jeepney in Manila. Photo: Agence France -
Presse
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His jeepney designs, still seen on the streets for now, chronicle the rapidly changing landscape of his home –
Las Pinas – from a farming and salt-making backwater into a highly urbanised area.

“It’s a pleasing sight. It brings us back to a time and place that is no more,” said de la Cruz.

After raising four children on the pay earned painting, he now also creates canvases and makes storefront signs
as a sideline. He conceded he could have a decent life without the jeepneys, but was heartbroken by the
government’s decision.

“I would like to appeal to the authorities not to outlaw it,” de la Cruz said. “At times I cry quietly when I think
about what is happening.”

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: Philippines’ beloved jeepney ar tists are
nearing the end of the road

Down the chaotic Manila streets, alongside large buses, private

cars, and taxi cabs, an eye-catching, anachronistic vehicle
carelessly makes its way through. It’s painted with bright colors
and adorned with gaudy accessories. This is the Philippine
jeepney, a post-World War II innovation, a cultural symbol, and
the undisputed “King of the Road”.
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What is the Philippine jeepney?

Locally referred to as a jeepney or jeep, this interesting-looking vehicle is an
affordable mode of Philippine public transport. With designated routes, which
are usually painted on their sides or displayed on their windshields, jeepneys
stop anywhere along the way to pick up or let off passengers.

Girl hopping on jeepney © Brian Evans / Flickr

Jeepneys are stretched long enough to accommodate around 15 to 25
passengers, have open ventilation through windows all along their side and an
open backdoor for easy passenger embarkation and disembarkation.
Jeepneys are famously characterized by their vibrant, multicolored paint jobs
and flashy decor, so much so that through the years, they have become a
symbol of the country and its culture.
Jeepney in Baguio © Andrew and Annemarie / Flickr

History of the jeepney

The history of the iconic jeepney bears a resemblance to that of the equally
iconic Filipino dish, sisig (sizzling chopped parts of the pig’s head): both were
products of ingenious innovation. Just as sisig was created by making the
most of cheap throw-away cuts of pigs from the US Air Base in Pampanga,
the jeepney was up-cycled from leftover U.S. Willy Jeeps used during World
War II.

Foreigners on a jeepney ride © Leo-setä / Flickr

In the early 1950s, jeepneys began making their rounds in Manila. Soon, they
became a solution to the post-war public transportation problem.

Cubao, Manila circa 1976 © Polyrus / Flickr

Filipinos lengthened the American vehicle to accommodate more passengers,

and attached a roof to protect them from the scorching Philippine heat. The
seats were removed and replaced with two benches that stretched lengthwise
on either side, allowing more seating space, and leaving a narrow space down
the middle for an aisle. Jeepney drivers started to adorn their new vehicles
with striking colors and images of anything that suited their fancy, from holy
Catholic imagery to pictures of the Philippine countryside to word art and their
favorite cartoon characters.

Old photo of jeepney © Tess Pajaro / Flickr

One of the early jeepney producers was Sarao Motors. They began making
the vehicles in 1953 and quickly shot to the top of the production ranks,
recognized for quality output. They also contributed to the framing of the
jeepney as a Philippine cultural icon.
Jeepneys as a cultural symbol
The jeepney as public transport is unique to the Philippines. It is a
proudly Pinoy creation. Considering its history, it has also become a reflection
of the Filipino spirit — resilient, innovative, and optimistic.

But another significant factor in making the jeepney a cultural symbol of the
Philippines was Sarao Motors. The popular automotive manufacturing
company created jeepneys that were shipped overseas and displayed in
tourism exhibitions in cities like New York and London as a Philippine icon.
Back home in the Philippines, movements promoting the jeepney as a Filipino
symbol were being carried out as well. Today, not only are jeepneys flaunted
in the streets of the country, but they also grace the shelves of souvenir shops
in miniature form.

Miniature jeepney model © Sonny Abesamis / Flickr

The Filipino jeepney today
Much has been said through the past few decades about phasing out the
jeepney to make way for much more efficient modes of public transport. While
there have been extensive debates on the matter, and even a decline in
jeepney production in the early 2000s, one thing in certain: they are still
around. Surviving nearly 70 years of the country’s struggles, progress, and
change, this cultural symbol proves that the King of the Road can withstand
even the arduous test of time.
audi Arabia, Jesus Christ and Pokemon might make for an unlikely trio of design
inspirations. But in the Philippines, don't be surprised to find all three adorning the side of
a jeepney.
An unofficial national symbol, the converted jeeps turned public transport staples are
tapestries of Filipino life. But amid longstanding calls to modernize, the jeepney is on the
verge of a major transformation.
The Duterte administration is demanding that any jeepneys in violation of updated
regulations -- including those built more than 15 years ago -- are taken off the roads by
Jan. 1, 2018. New rules on size, accessibility and engine quality could take thousands of
vehicles out of service, as well as potentially endangering the livelihoods of drivers and
others in the jeepney industry. The changes could also effectively mean the end of a
Filipino design icon.

Known in the Philippines as the "King of the Road," jeepneys are renowned for having designs as loud as their roaring
engines.Credit: Peter M acdiarmid/Getty Images AsiaPac/Getty Images

The sweeping changes have come as welcome news to many, however. Although the
fleet reaches places where there is often no alternative, jeepneys contribute to pollution
and crippling congestion in cities across the country. And while they are a visual feas t of
kitsch decoration, the vehicles are also notoriously challenging to board -- especially for
those with mobility difficulties.

Dekotora: The kitschy world of Japan's pimped up trucks

So what will it take to reform a decades-old mode of transport that is entrenched not only
in the daily lives of millions, but in the national psyche?
The 'King of the Road'
Born in post-war Manila, the jeepney offered a new way to get around after the city's
street cable cars were destroyed by bombing. Local mechanics would fashion the
vehicles from war jeeps abandoned by the Americans, customizing them to
accommodate more passengers.
But what began as a makeshift solution to a temporary problem now serves almost 40%
of transport users in Metro Manila and the surrounding provinces.
 M ade from converted military jeeps abandoned by the Americans after World War II, jeepneys offered a convenient way to
get around. Credit: JAY DIRECTO/AFP/AFP/Getty Images

Today, official figures show that -- even before counting unofficial vehicles -- there are
almost 180,000 franchised jeepneys on the country's roads.
Costing just 8 pesos ($0.16) a ride -- compared to 12 pesos for a bus ride or 15 pesos for
a train -- jeepneys provide an affordable alternative to Filipino commuters. In Metro
Manila, which is home to 12 million people across 250 square miles, the vehicles' size
and shape allows them to navigate streets untouched by the limited public transit system.

10 incredible custom cars from the world's most extreme gear heads

Known in the Philippines as the "King of the Road," jeepneys are also renowned for
having designs as loud as their roaring engines. Embracing a "more is better" philosophy,
owners use vibrant colors and busy ornamentation to decorate their vehicles.

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Jeepneys are a visual feast of kitsch decoration, but they are also notoriously difficult to board and rely on old, emission-
heavy engines. Credit: NOEL CELIS/AFP/Getty Images

The body of each jeepney tells a story. An image of a cruise ship might represent
overseas Filipino workers, who represent one in five of the world's seamen. Pastoral
scenes, beaches or mountains may signify the owner's family heritage. Airbrushed
basketball players and cartoons also make regular appearances.
Even if money is tight, few jeepney drivers will skimp on their elaborate name plates.
Displayed at the front of the vehicles, they serve as a dedication to children, astrological
signs and overseas countries where relatives live or work.
The jeepney can be seen as an extension of the home, according to Bru Sim -Nada, co-
author of "Biyaheng Langit," a book exploring the vehicles' religious iconography as a
genre of folk art. As well as providing welcome-mat-style messages to boarding
passengers (such as "God Bless this Trip"), jeepney art is a source of personal pride for
owners.
An image from the book 'Biyaheng Langit : Jeepney Folk Art' published by 5 Ports Publishing Credit: Courtesy of 5 Ports
Publishing

"It's a basic need for people who don't have money -- who don't have power -- to
establish a presence and a sense of belonging," she said.

West Coast Customs: Where A-listers go for outrageous car designs

The jeepney has also become a staple image on souvenirs, from key chains and
magnets to mugs and T-shirts. It is a true national symbol, according to Jowee Alviar, co-
founder of graphic design firm Team Manila.
"The jeepney is unique to our visual culture, it represents the creativity, resilience and
adaptability of the Filipino," he said.
Modernization underway
Having previously mass-produced vehicles, the jeepney industry now mostly caters to
custom orders. As such, the fleet largely consists of second-hand vehicles, propped up
with scavenged parts and reliant on polluting diesel. This puts them at odds with
President Duterte's desire to modernize the country's transportation system as part of a
"golden age of infrastructure."
Amid promises of new subways, bus lines and rail systems, the jeepney can still play a
part in the country's transport by offering feeder routes or "last mile" services. But the
fleet may soon look drastically different.
A number of new prototypes unveiled at a car expo last month offered a peek at the
jeepneys of the future. These updated models may help owners meet new requirements,
but their look is a long way from the vehicles' current, chaotic designs, said Ed Sarao,
founder of jeepney manufacturers Sarao Motors.

Jeepney art often tells a story about the owner's life or heritage. Basketball players and cartoons also make regular
appearances. Credit: JAY DIRECTO/AFP/AFP/Getty Images

"[The new vehicles] are definitely not jeepneys , all the lines and details are different," he
said, claiming that the new models should be called what they are -- mini buses.
Decorating a mini-bus in the style of a jeepney will "look awkward," he added.
But if the new vehicles may lack the character of their predecessors, passengers like RR
Realasa are more focused on the anticipated improvements.
"They will be bigger, more comfortable, safe," said the 26-year-old, who uses a jeepney
as part of his two-and-a-half-hour commute from Taguig to Manila.
A poster from the PUV (public utility vehicle) M odernization campaign. The poster says the new vehicles won't permit
"sabits" or passengers that "hang" rather than sit in seats, because of overcapacity. Credit: Philippines Department of
Transportation

In addition to a design overhaul, changes are also expected to routes and franchising in
the coming years. The introduction of formal ticketing and drop-off points pose further
challenges to the conventions of jeepney rides -- currently, riders tap the roof to stop the
vehicle, while fares passed up a line of passengers to the driver.
Having already embarked on a series of protests and strikes across the country, jeepney
operators, drivers and "barkers" (the gruff attendants who canvas for riders) are expected
to further resist to the changes.
A jeepney owner for 15 years, Efren Borela earns 2,500 pesos ($48) per day. He has
invested his savings into his vehicle and is unsure if he can recover the investment and
buy a new roadworthy one.
Authorities say that owners like Borela will be offered financing to help meet the cost of
upgrades or new vehicles. And officials, including undersecretary for road transport at the
Department of Transportation, Thomas Orbos, remain confident that reform will ultimately
benefit everyone in the industry.
"I'm sure when people see [the new system] on the road, and once people try it, the
opposition will be lost," he said.
The jeepney does -- and will continue to -- represent the potential of re-invention. After
all, images of horse-drawn carriages remain common in the vehicles' decorations,
referencing a type of mass transit now reserved for a tourist trip around historic areas.
This may prove to be the fate of the brightly colored jeepney too. But as the sign on the
rear of one Manila jeepney muses: "Forever is just a word. There's no forever."

he Ugly Truth of Commuting in Manila this Rainy

Season

Updated June 21, 2018

Heavy rains, flooded streets, crowded trains, and buses – how will you survive?

Pinoys commuting to work have to deal with the sluggish flow of traffic every day, sitting
beside fellow commuters wet with sweat and enveloped with a not so happy aura.

Every day is a struggle, and when it rains you are still expected to report to work as if it
is a normal day just like your boss. The difference is, your boss has a car.
Share this Image On Your Site

The Reality of Commuting on Rainy Days

The Traffic in EDSA
As the famous hugot line says, “Traffic lang sa EDSA ang forever,” every day we
witness the seemingly hopeless condition of the traffic in EDSA. Being the main road in
Manila, it has been congested with buses, jeepneys, taxis, motorbikes and private
vehicles.

Commuters have no choice but to accept the fact that they have to leave their homes
early in the morning to get to work on time and be back home late at night due to rush
hour.

They see less of their families on workdays and even lose the chance to have a
comfortable sleep in their beds beside their loved ones just to join other commuters on
the long winding lines in MRT and LRT stations.

MRT and LRT usually break down during mid-trips

It is not new when Facebook trends with news of passengers walking on tracks because
an MRT train breaks down halfway to another station or LRT stations won’t accept
passengers for a while due to technical problems.

These circumstances are not enough excuses when you get to work late and looking
haggard as if your shift has just ended.

There are too many people for limited trains

Overcrowded trains may be a nuisance, yet since Filipinos want to get to work on time
or as soon as possible, they will push the already sweaty crowd further into the train just
to get in.

People may grumble, curse and even shout at each other due to getting hurt, but they
are all in the same predicament, standing close with strangers and almost breathing
each other’s breath.
Sometimes when a commuter complains loudly, others will say that complainants better
get out and fetch a taxi, or better yet buy a car for convenience.

Roads easily get flooded

It is no secret that Manila’s drainage system isn’t world class. Streets easily get flooded,
and this makes the traffic even worst. Commuters have to brave walking in floods just to
get home despite the known dangers such as falling into open manholes, tripping on
unseen objects underwater, getting feet fungal infection and acquiring leptospirosis.

It is difficult to catch a ride

Getting stranded is no fun if you are tired, wet, cold and hungry. Drivers of some public
utility vehicles sometimes choose to just go home due to heavy traffic, resulting in less
chance for passengers to get a ride.

Sometimes taxi drivers even ask for a higher fare, and if you live with a tight budget
expect to get home way past midnight.

Why should you buy a car?

There is a lot of reason why you should buy a car, and the rainy season gives your
more.

Stay fresh during your travel

Despite the worse weather, you are expected to look your best at work. If you have a
car you can avoid the crowd. You can even keep some of your clothes hanged at the
backseat and just change when you get at the office. You can also keep extra shoes
and clothes in the trunk.

You can choose your route around Metro Manila

Since the main problem for commuters is the traffic, a car owner can simply avoid most
of it by taking alternate routes. More time can be spent at home since there is no rush to
get in line just to catch a train. You can also avoid flooded areas along the way.

Joyrides
You can stop by any fast food place or restaurants if you get hungry. If you are in a
rush, you can just buy through drive-thrus. You can also go to other places that are out
of the public vehicle’s way.

Safer travel
When commuting, you have to take care of your belongings, and if you have a big
luggage or a couple of bags, these will add up to your inconvenience since you have to
keep an eye on it. You can avoid possible pickpockets and holdapers.

Bladder breaks
With your own car, you can drive to a gasoline station and take a pee. You can even
take your time and perhaps drop by the next door convenience store and buy some
snacks.

Fill up Cash Mart’s online loan application form to get the quickest car loan in the
Philippines. Save yourself the hassle of commuting and spend more time with your
loved ones rather than with strangers in an overcrowded public vehicle.

In case you get sick this rainy season but your savings is not en

Surviving the Philippine Rainy Season: Daily

Commute
 HOME
 Tips & Guides
 Surviving the Philippine Rainy Season: Daily Commute

The Philippines only has two prevailing seasons: the wet and dry season. The dry
season, which occurs from late November to May, is usually seen as vacation season
thanks to the country’s different islands.
 IT’S NOT ALWAYS RAINBOWS and butterflies in the Philippines. (Photo by Roberto
Verzo via flickr)

However, the Philippines is not always a place of rainbows and butterflies. From June to
November, the country experiences some of the worst rains in the world. Yes, the
Philippines does not hold any records for rainfall, but our wet season has always been
some of the toughest to survive.
Here at Primer, we want to help you survive what can arguably be a tough rainy season,
especially for the uninitiated, starting with the most common of problems in the
Philippines once the rains come: commuting.

1. Never leave your “cave” without it

Rain gear is essential (sometimes even required) in tropical countries like the
Philippines. Yes, it can be a burden on your arms or shoulders, but would you rather
have a sore arm/shoulder or be soaking wet? Yup, didn’t think so. Here are the things
you should have in your bag for when the waterworks start:

● Umbrella. Bigger is better for umbrellas, but not when you have to bring it all the time.
A personal umbrella does the trick just fine, especially when combined with

● Slippers/Sandals. No one likes smelly feet. Your everyday shoe-plus-sock combo

already has its way of making your feet smell. Rainwater only makes it worse: the scent
is appalling, the squishy noise… and, oh, that frozen feeling whenever they get hit by
the A/C. It’s better if you can get boots, but they tend to be big.

● Shorts. This one’s optional, but arguably just as important. It’s hard to roll up your
pants when the rains set in. A quick trip to the loo so you can change into something
more comfy does the trick.

● Shirt. Again, this one’s optional. Thanks to recent weather conditions, however, it’s
slowly becoming a must. There’s always the raincoat or poncho to the rescue; however,
who has that kind of room in their bag?

2. Check the weather.

Thinking of leaving the house now that your bag is ready? Hold your horses! Even with
the essentials, you’re still at the mercy of the weather. It’s always good to check the
weather before you leave the house. It could save you from a lot of stress, even if your
trip is for an important business meeting.

ADVERTISEMENT

Weather apps are generally reliable, but nothing beats good old news for predictions. If
they say it’s going to be raining cats and dogs, you may want to take a rain check.

3. Avoid the rush.

By rush, we mean rush hour. If you’re used to leaving home an hour early for work, add
an extra 30 minutes to an hour. Rains always cause traffic since people need to drive
slower than usual. Also, expect long lines of people at a packed terminal since people
will not want to be caught in the rain.

4. Keep your batteries charged.

We know you’re itching to hatch that egg you got from that Pokéstop last night, but apps
like Pokémon go can drain your batteries (batteries because you may have extras or a
power bank), even with its power saving features. You may also be one of those people
who like making “Snapchat moments” a little bit too much. You could also be on the
engaged in calls with your clients, answering emails, or talking to your little boy/girl at
home. At any rate, constant use of your mobile phone will drain its battery, which you’ll
likely need in the event you get stranded due to heavy rains.

For your safety, keep your phone charged during the rainy season, lest you be stranded
without a way to call for help.

5. Know the emergency hotline.

In case you missed it, the new emergency hotline, 911, was launched earlier this month.
It’s an iconic emergency number that makes it a lot easier for you to reach the
authorities, regardless of where you are in the country. Either know it by heart or have it
on your speed dial.

Here’s an infographic from Panahon TV (Weather TV) if you’re more of a visual person,
which also includes other tips:
The Story of Jeepneys in the
Philippines
If you had to choose one thing to represent the Philippines there is a
good chance it would be the jeepney. I set out to learn more about the
tradition and history of this iconic vehicle, and this is what I found.

Published on May 3, 2015 by Wade Shepard Follow me on Twitter here.

The streets of the Philippines are dominated by brazenly colored, heavily
ornamented, black exhaust smoke belching, military jeep inspired vehicles.
They are called jeepneys, which is either a portmanteau of the words “jeep”
and “jitney” or “jeep” and “knee,” because when you ride in these things you
are wedged in knee to knee with other passengers. But one thing that’s for sure
is that they are the staple form of public transportation here.
The jeepney is an icon of the Philippines — in the same league as the red
double decker bus in London, the yellow taxi in New York, the moto taxi in
Peru, and the little beetle-like auto-rickshaw in India. A specimen of a jeepney
was even exhibited in the Philippines pavilion at the 1964 New York World’s
Fair as the prime symbol to represent the country. When Pope John Paul II
visited Manila in 1981 he apparently left his “pope mobile” at the Vatican and
instead opted to ride in, yes, a jeepney.

This seemingly simple public transport vehicle is deeply intertwined with

contemporary Filipino society and history, and in many ways can also be used
as a lens to see the culture itself. It’s not only something that Filipinos can ride
in, but something they can identify with as well.

History
Jeepneys first appeared on the streets of the Philippines in the 1950s, soon
after the U.S. military began pulling out in droves. WWII had left the public
transportation networks of the Philippines in shambles, and the U.S. military
left behind hundreds of old Willys and Ford jeeps they no longer had any use
for. It was a set of circumstances that match perfectly.
Industrious Filipinos took those old military jeeps, extended them two meters
or so, slapped on metal roofs, threw a couple of benches into the backs, coated
them in vibrant colors, ornaments, and an excess of chrome, and began
transporting passengers. Almost instantaneously the jeepney culture was
born, and these vehicles became the defacto way that Filipinos began getting
around.

Eventually, as the form of transportation became more popular and the

original jeeps began clunking out, a second wave of jeepneys emerged. These
ones were distinctly ‘made in the Philippines.’ Backyard garages began
appearing that manufactured these vehicles by hand. The main parts —
engines, transmissions, etc . . .– were mostly imported from Japan, while the
chassis and bodies where molded from scratch or retrieved from scrap yards.
This multi-national, multi-method conglomeration of materials were then
mashed together using an array of different designs to create something
distinctly Filipino, which in a very direct way represented the culture itself.

“There is bit of Spanish, Mexican traits there; how they incorporate vivid
colours, fiesta-like feelings. There is a little of the Americans because it
evolved from the Jeep. There is a little Japan because of the Japanese engine.
But it was built by Filipino hands . . .,” reported an article on BBC.
Eventually, one of these family-run, backyard jeepney manufacturing
operations rose to the top and became the brand the vehicle has been
associated with ever since. It was called Sarao, and they operated a factory to
the south of Metro Manila. The company was started with ₱700 in 1953
by Leonardo Sarao, who at the time was a driver of a horse-drawn cart, and
eventually became a multi-million dollar operation. At the company’s peak in
the 70s and 80s, the plant had 400 workers who kicked out 18 to 20 jeepneys
per day — all of which sported the brand’s metal horse statues on the roof. At
one point, Sarao jeepneys outnumber all others in Manila by a margin of 7 to
1.

Today, there are over 50,000 jeepneys on the streets of Manila, and untold
thousands more around the country.

The Jeepney Experience

I stood on the side of Magasaysay Road in Baguio and prepared to flag down a
jeepney. I wanted to visit one of the garages that repaired and painted these
‘kings of the road.’

Jeepneys generally follow set routes. They gather together at designated

starting points and line up one after another. A barker keeps track of them all
and tells each driver when it’s his turn to go. The driver then does his route,
collecting passengers, dropping them off, all the way to the end of the line,
where he then turns around and does the same thing in the opposite direction.

This means that getting a ride in a jeepney is simply a matter of standing on

the side of the road in the direction you want to go and flagging one down that
has your destination painted on it. All jeepneys have their routes written below
their windshields and on their sides.

I soon spotted a jeepney that was going my way, so I stuck out my arm and it
quickly came to a stop. I climbed in through the open back and made my way
to the front of the bench, right behind the driver.

The prices for rides were listed on a sheet of paper that was attached to the
back of the front seats so all of the passengers could see it. The cost was based
on how far along the route you wanted to go. Though with the highest price
hardly breaching 40 cents U.S. it seemed a little moot. Traveling by jeepney is
cheap, and this is one of the reasons why they are still so popular.
I called out to the driver, telling him where I wanted to go — a far flung
intersection way down the line — and asked how much it would cost. He
shrugged, said 12 pesos, and I handed the coins up to him. He reached his
hand back while still driving, grabbed the change, and tossed it into a metal
dish that had been soldered onto the dash.

Some jeepneys have conductors who take care of things on the passenger end,
but they must be paid and fed lunch, so many drivers don’t find it worth it to
carry them along. The loss of a few passengers taking a free ride does not
equate to the cost of a guy whose job it is to prevent this. While conductors
were not necessarily rare in Baguio, most drivers seemed to do without them.
The passengers just paid on their own at a convenient point along their way,
passing money down the bench to the person sitting nearest the driver, who
would hand it over when the opportunity allowed.
Jeepneys can carry around 18 passengers on their parallel benches — and
many more hanging on outside or sitting on the roof if need be. This makes
them rather crowded, though social places. Like so, there is an unwritten code
of conduct for riding. Pushing and shoving, talking loudly, and making a scene
is generally considered rude. Old people are offered seats if there are none
available. Basically, the rule is don’t be a dick.

In such close social quarters most Filipinos tend to politely sit in silence.
Though not necessarily an unfriendly place, the social protocol in a jeepney is
similar to that of an elevator. To prevent bothering others, loquaciousness is
generally not encouraged, and most ride without saying a word other than
yelling out “para” when they want to be let off. Though banging the ceiling or
rapping a coin against something metal also works.
Outside of high traffic areas in the center of cities, jeepneys don’t really have
set stops. Instead, they travel in incredibly short spurts, seemingly stopping to
pick up or drop off passengers every 50 to 100 meters or so, inch-worming
their way down the road. I sometimes debated if I could walk faster.

Jeepneys are diesel fueled, rumbling beasts of vehicles. They emit incredible
amounts of exhaust, which inevitably seeps into the cabin where the
passengers are. After 20 minutes of huffing diesel fumes as I rode out of
Baguio I was feeling a little queasy, by the time that I arrived I was outright
nauseous. While it wasn’t a debilitating state of affairs, it wasn’t something I’d
be exhilarated to experience daily. Jeepneys, though defended as a mainstay of
Filipino culture, are also known for being notoriously unhealthy.
Garages and Backyard Factories

I hopped off the jeepney in front of a road that lead up to Mountainside

Motors. Jeepneys were lined up end to end leading up a hill to the garage. The
structure itself was a lopsided corrugated metal barn that was completely open
in the front. Jeepneys packed almost every inch of the place, overflowing out
of it and down the road. I hovered by the entrance for a few moments, looking
at two men sleeping on the benches in the back of a jeepney that had some
kind of warrior princess abutting against a screeching bald eagle streaming
down its side.

Jeepney production, decorating, and repair are all very grassroots industries
in the Philippines. While Sarao Motors dominated the country’s jeepney
manufacturing front for an extended period of time, thousands of other
vehicles were slapped together in local garages all around the
country. Generally speaking, these backyard factories produce around 1 to 5
vehicles per month, getting their materials from an array of more
sophisticated manufacturers, salvage yards, or they simply cast them
themselves.

In 15 years of travel I don’t think I’ve ever been in a country where it was
common for people to build their own large scale motor vehicles locally. In the
Philippines, you can travel around the outskirts of cities and see men
assembling jeepneys in small garages virtually from scratch. This localized
application of knowledge and skill combined with an innovative, DIY
mentality is one of the reasons why the jeepney has become such a national
icon. These are cultural traits this country seems incredibly proud of.
The cost for a jeepney is around a million pesos (US$22,300) new, ₱300-
₱700,000 (US$6,700 – US$15,600) used.

Ornamentation

I met Mr.Carino as I was looking over his extremely old, grey jeepney. The
little steel airplane he had mounted on the hood caught my attention. I asked
him why he chose to put it there when so many other drivers had horses. “To
be unique,” he replied.

It’s often said that no two jeepneys are alike, and this is probably true.
Uniqueness is key here, and this diversity extends from the outer paint job and
kitsch down into the inner-workings of the vehicle. Though it is the outer
artwork that truly makes these vehicles something special.
Jeepneys are essentially art on wheels, their exteriors are usually plastered
with wild paint jobs, decals, colored lights, horns, statues, and lots and lots of
chrome. As the drivers generally decide on the designs, the art becomes an
exposé of their interests, history, family, faith, worldviews, and, to put it
simply, what they think look cools. Religious slogans are common, as are
horoscope signs, the names and portraits of family members, cartoon
characters, animals, scantly clad women, and iconography depicting places or
natural scenes. You can read a jeepney to know the driver.

The family connections shown in jeepney art often extends into the process by
which the designs are selected. When asking jeepney drivers how they chose
the images they adorn their vehicles with, it was common for them to
reply with things like “My brother chose it” or “My sister drew it.” Jeepney art
seems to be a way of not only demonstrating familial bonds but strengthening
them as well.
The imagery of jeepney art is not dissimilar to that of tattooing. The arts’
symbologies, social functions, and, sometimes, even aesthetics come from a
similar place. Like tattoos, jeepney art shows what’s meaningful to the driver
— they tell the story of his life, shows the things he likes, displays his family
connections, and how he views the world. Also like tattooing, jeepney art
enters him into the fraternity of other drivers who decorate their vehicles. The
artwork gives them something to talk about, something to do together, and
something through which to classify insiders from outsiders. The jeepney is
the driver’s social face — an external body of sorts — and adorning it is a way
of expressing and defining themselves.

Though this ornamentation does not come cheap.

“Why did you pay so much money to paint your jeepney?” I asked a driver who
claimed to have paid ₱80,000 (US$1,800) for his paint job and
decorations. He just shrugged and smiled shyly. He didn’t really have an
answer, but his silent response perhaps said it all.

I was told by drivers that spending ₱50-₱60,000 for decoration is common,

while others have claimed to have paid over ₱90,000 (US$2,000). Jeepney
decorating is also a continuous process — it doesn’t really seem to be
something you pay for once and get done and over with.

Though I had to wonder if there were any financial benefits to these relatively
large investments. I asked if passengers have a preference for nicer looking,
brighter colored, more decorated jeepneys over ones that are older, clunkier,
and less adorned.

“The more beautiful, the more passengers want to ride,” one driver with
a bright orange, heavily adorned jeepney told me.

Though this was contested by another driver. “We all have a set route, so
decoration doesn’t matter.”

Perhaps needless to say, he drove an old, plain green clunker.

The Jeepney Lifestyle

I was walking around in a jeepney depot taking photos when a voice called out.
“You want some lunch? Come into our restaurant.”

It came from a man half hanging out of the back of a jeepney. He was laughing
and waving me over.

Inside, five or six drivers and a woman were eating lunch — fried chicken and
strips of miscellaneous fish out of goopy, dripping plastic bags.

I asked them why they chose to become drivers.

“Driving is our life. Without driving our families can’t eat,” one of them
answered with a laugh.

He had a wispy beard and told me that he had been driving for four years. His
brother was the driver of the jeepney we were sitting in. They told me that they
worked for a small company, meaning they did not own the vehicles they
drove.

I asked them what they do in their free time, and they just laughed at me.

“We don’t do anything for fun, we work seven days per week!”

********************

Another driver told me that he’d been driving for 20 years. “For three years I
drove a truck in UAE, then I came back here to the jeepney.”

“Did you miss your family when you were away?”

“Yes, the first year was very hard.”

He was laid off during the global economic slump and returned to the
Philippines, fired up his old jeepney, and began picking up passengers again. I
asked if he would go abroad again for work if the chance arose.

“Why not?” he replied without hesitation.

He told me that he was an independent operator. He owned his own jeepney,

worked for himself.

********************

Just beyond the garage I saw a guy standing on the front bumper of a sharp
looking, bright red jeepney with his face buried deep in the engine. His name
was Danny, and he told me that he learned to drive from his uncle, who was
the owner of the jeepney he was repairing. He told me that it was purchased
new three years ago for a price of 1.5 million.

He said that he makes around ₱1,000 (US$22.30) per day, after putting 500
to 1,000 into the gas tank.

Danny said that he didn’t like driving. He smiled shyly as he shook his
head. “In Philippines, drivers drive very bad,” he said, adding that all the hills
of Baguio made driving such huge vehicles with standard transmissions
challenging. He then told me a story about how he once crashed into the car of
a local bigwig and had to drive fast to get away. He laughed shyly as he pointed
out the dent on the steel bars that crossed in front of the jeepney’s front
bumper.

********************

Mr. Carino told me that he was a security guard before he became a jeepney
driver. That was a long time ago.

In the early 80s his wife did a three year stint working in Hong Kong, sending
the remittances to her husband back at home. Eventually, they were able to
save up enough money to buy a house and a jeepney, and the couple reunited
for their new start.
He told me he paid ₱70,000 for the jeepney in 1986. “They now cost
₱300,000,” he told me proudly. It was manufactured in 1980, one year before
I was born. It was 34 years old and looked it. Though, for it’s age, the fact that
it was running was impressive. He seemed to speak of the vehicle with fatherly
pride. He may as well have — it was older than his children.

Though I had to wonder how much of it was original. The hodge podge nature
of jeepney manufacturing means that these vehicles can be continuously be
repaired into virtual eternity — one one component breaks it can just be
replaced, on and on and on.

Everyday over the past 28 years Mr. Carino said with a laugh that he was
either driving this jeepney or repairing it. “I drive five days per week and do
repairs on the other days.”
The story of driving jeepneys is also a story of repairing jeepneys. Almost every
driver jested about the amount of repair work these vehicles need regularly.
Many others besides Mr. Carino attested that their days off are spent under a
jeepney or face down in its engine block. This seems to be a running joke of
sorts among the drivers, but it’s nothing to laugh about when you see them
lining the sides of streets or blockading the middle of a road broken down —
which is perhaps another iconic scene of the Philippines.

Conclusion
Jeepneys are still being manufactured in the Philippines, and the country’s
streets are still clogged with these smoke spewing, diesel chuggers. This is a
unique tradition that is still very much alive in a world where monotony is fast
becoming a pan-cultural rule. Though how much longer this will last is very
much in question.

The once powerful and iconic Sarao Motors, the brand that is as familiar to
Filipinos as Volkswagen is to Germans, dropped from producing 12 to 18
vehicles per day to 40 per year before petering out and going out of business in
2001. Many of the other larger scale manufacturers have followed suit —
either given up on jeepney production or going under altogether.
In a world full of cheap, mass produced, lower fuel consuming competitors,
the traditional jeepney is starting to lose its footing as the king of the road.
Due to its custom design and lack of standardization, the old style jeepney is
more costly to repair, and the cost to fuel them tends to be much greater than
their assembly line foes. On top of that, taxis, buses, mini-vans, and rapid
transit systems are starting to appear more and more in the cities of the
Philippines. Passenger desires also changing, preferring vehicles with air
conditioning to the dizzying miasma of exhaust smoke inhalation that comes
from riding in a jeepney.

There are also movements calling for jeepneys to be phased out for
environmental reasons. The excessive amount of pollution they produce and
resources they consume are growing unacceptable in a world where an
awareness of environmental degradation and its effects on health are become
increasingly vital concerns.
As I looked out over Manila and Baguio it was apparent that the jeepney was
something from an era that many countries have sought to conclude. These
vehicles turn the streets into corridors of black noxious fumes, clog the roads,
and make the cities they service far more inhospitable. The exhaust is the real
the killer. You not only get gassed out while riding in a jeepney but when
walking down the sidewalk or even while sitting inside buildings that open
onto busy streets. The traditional jeepney seems to be a third world hang up in
a time when no country is willing to accept such a distinction.

From Manila Concierge Online:

They represent a battle between traditional and progress and up to now the
traditional is still winning. As much as they have charm, history and being a
part of the culture, it could also be said that they are totally unsuitable in
almost every imaginable way as a modern public transport vehicle.
Like so many other once ubiquitous traditions in so many other countries,
those colorful, loud, diesel sucking, exhaust spewing, aesthetically pleasing,
unique vehicles that cover the streets of the Philippines will soon be devoured
by the onward role of modernity. The traditional style jeepney will no longer
be put on display as an icon of Filipino culture, but that of Filipino history.

Though the industry is fighting back, and is doing so in the way it always has:
from the depths of local run garages scattered around the country.

Knowing that the traditional style jeepney has entered into its twilight years,
the vehicle is starting to transgress its “jeep-like” roots. To these ends, Suzuki
minivans and Isuzu Elf trucks are now being adapted, decorated, and called
jeepneys. While some local manufacturers are producing jeepneys that look
like Hummers, Toyota vans, and Honda CR-Vs. A producer in Makati is even
producing an electric jeepney. These new “jeepneys” are often equipped with
air conditioning and modern amenities, they pollute less, consume less fuel,
and ultimately cost less to operate.

The Filipino jeepney, a vehicle whose hallmark has always been innovation, is
continuing its evolution. The look of the new versions may be very different
but the essence of the tradition remains the same. The jeepney is adapting and
staying alive — though, thankfully, they are still being decked out in bright
colors, airbrushing, kitsch, and chrome.