Apparel Intrnship 2017 (Aakib, Nidhi, Anupma)

Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel Private Limited (A Raymond group Of Company)
A
Report on
Apparel Internship
(From 29th, May, 2017 to 02nd, Sept., 2017)
at
(Dress Master Apparel Private Limited-A Raymond Group Of Company)
by
Aakib Ahamed Qureshi

Anupma Meena
Nidhi Kumari
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

JODHPUR, INDIA 342037
SEPTEMBER 2017
National Institute of Fashion Technology Page 1|

CERTIFICATION



Acknowledgement
We are extremely thankful to national institute of Fashion Technology, Jodhpur and Dr. Vijaya
Deshmukh (Director of NIFT, Jodhpur) and our faculty mentor, Dr. Manoj Tiwari (Asst. professor
of NIFT, Jodhpur) for making this exercise in effect, with curriculum.
We are extremely grateful and indebted to Mr. Kaushal Narayan(Director of DMAPL), Mr. Pravin
Krishna Khot (Plant Head) and Mr. Murali C, our mentor at Dress Master Apparel Private Limited
for giving us the opportunity for pursuing our internship at DMAPL, Unit of Raymond and for
their exemplary guidance, monitoring and constant encouragement throughout the course of our
internship.
We would also like to express our heartfelt gratitude to Mr.Pradeep and Mrs.Manasa, of HR and
Admin Department for helping us get the opportunity to pursue our internship at the company. We
would also like to express our gratitude to Mr.Rana (Maintenance Head) for his support.
We also place on record, our sense of utmost gratitude to Mr.Arjun C. (Cutting Incharge) Sunith
Kumar, Sathish supervisor of cutting floor Radhshyam Jha (fabric& trim store incharge),
Dyanshwar Matre(technical incharge of jacket sewing foor) for helping us gain insight of the same
and for their support for the project that we undertook during the course of this internship.
Regards
AAKIB AHAMED QURESHI
ANUPMA MEENA
NIDHI KUMARI

ABSTRACT
This report is a documentation on Apparel Manufacturing and processing. The report includes all
the major department of an Apparel industry, starting from trim & fabric store, and cutting, sewing,
finishing & final packaging giving information about the machineries, process flow and
technologies applied.
While making this report we gained a lot of practical knowledge in garment sector. Use of pictures
& flow charts and simple and lucid language makes this report interesting and easy to understand.
This report also contains the details of project we implemented here.

Contents
1. COMPANY PROFILE ....................................................................................................................... 14
1.1 RAYMOND- organization structure ................................................................................................. 15
1.2 Brands ............................................................................................................................................... 16
2. Introduction- Dress Master Apparel Private Limited .......................................................................... 17
2.1 Unit profile ........................................................................................................................................ 17
2.2 Unit Organization Structure .............................................................................................................. 19
3. PRODUCTS:................................................................................................................................... 20
4. Departmental Flow.............................................................................................................................. 23
4.1 Fabric Store and Trim Store .............................................................................................................. 24
Fabric Receiving Process: ....................................................................................................................... 24
Fabric Issuing Process: ........................................................................................................................... 25
Staff Workload ........................................................................................................................................ 27
Quality process in fabric store ................................................................................................................ 33
4.2 Trims store: ....................................................................................................................................... 34
Trims issuing process.............................................................................................................................. 35
Other Activities ....................................................................................................................................... 37
4.3 CAD Department .............................................................................................................................. 41
4.4 Pattern Department ........................................................................................................................... 42
Marking pattern formation ...................................................................................................................... 42
4.5 Spreading and cutting section ........................................................................................................... 43
4.6 Sewing department............................................................................................................................ 48
4.6.1 Trouser department ................................................................................................................... 48
Finishing and packaging ............................................................................................................................. 51
4.6.2 Jacket manufacturing ................................................................................................................. 52
4.6.4 Shirt manufacturing.................................................................................................................... 53
4.7 Warehouse......................................................................................................................................... 53
4.8 Merchandising department................................................................................................................ 53
4.9 Production planning and control department .................................................................................... 53
4.10 Records maintained in the department(ppc) ................................................................................... 54
4.11 Maintenance department ................................................................................................................. 55
Project Work ............................................................................................................................................... 56
5. FABRIC STORE ................................................................................................................................ 57

Project title: Reducing the retrieval time of fabric store ............................................................................. 57
5.1 MODIFICATION OF LAYOUT ...................................................................................................... 57
5.1.1 Objective: ................................................................................................................................... 57
5.1.2 Previous layout: ......................................................................................................................... 57
5.1.3 Observations and problem identification: .................................................................................. 59
5.1.4 Methodology: ............................................................................................................................. 59
5.1.5 Benefits: ..................................................................................................................................... 60
5.2 SORT &SHINE: ............................................................................................................................... 63
5.2.1 Objective: ....................................................................................................................................... 63
5.2.2 Methodology: ................................................................................................................................. 63
5.2.3 Sort: ................................................................................................................................................ 63
5.2.4 Straighten ....................................................................................................................................... 65
5.2.5 Shine: ............................................................................................................................................. 66
Observation: ............................................................................................................................................ 67
5.3 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE: ................................................................................... 67
5.3.1 Objective: ....................................................................................................................................... 67
Existing process ...................................................................................................................................... 68
Fabric Receiving Process ........................................................................................................................ 68
Fabric Issuing Process: ........................................................................................................................... 69
5.3.3 Observations and problems identified: .......................................................................................... 69
5.3.4 Modified SOP: ............................................................................................................................... 70
5.3.5 Benefits: ......................................................................................................................................... 75
5.4 STRING DIAGRAM: ....................................................................................................................... 75
5.4.1 Objective: ....................................................................................................................................... 75
5.4.2 Previous material flow: .................................................................................................................. 75
4.4.3 Problems identified: ....................................................................................................................... 75
4.4.4 Material flow after modification: ................................................................................................... 76
5.4.5 Benefits: ......................................................................................................................................... 76
6. SQDM: ................................................................................................................................................ 76
6.1 Objective: .......................................................................................................................................... 77
6.2 Methodology: .................................................................................................................................... 77
6.3 Safety: ............................................................................................................................................... 77

6.4 Quality: ............................................................................................................................................. 77
6.5 Delivery: ........................................................................................................................................... 78
6.6 Morale: .............................................................................................................................................. 78
6.7 Benefits: ............................................................................................................................................ 78
7. PERFORMANCE MATRIX: ............................................................................................................. 78
7.1 Objective: .......................................................................................................................................... 78
7.2 Methodology: .................................................................................................................................... 78
7.3 Performance matrix board:................................................................................................................ 79
7.4 Benefits: ............................................................................................................................................ 80
8. INCOMING MATERIAL TRACKING BOARD: ............................................................................. 81
8.1 Objective: .......................................................................................................................................... 81
8.2 Methodology: .................................................................................................................................... 81
8.3 Benefits ............................................................................................................................................. 82
9. MOCK FOR THE RETRIEVAL TIME: ............................................................................................ 82
9.1 Objective: .......................................................................................................................................... 82
9.2 Procedure: ......................................................................................................................................... 82
10. ADVANCED MATERIAL LOCATION DISPLAY ....................................................................... 83
10.1 Objective: ........................................................................................................................................ 83
10.2 Working: ......................................................................................................................................... 83
10.3 Steps to update the board: ............................................................................................................... 84
10.4 Retrieval: ......................................................................................................................................... 84
10.5 Benefits: .......................................................................................................................................... 84
11. CUTTING DEPARTMENT ................................................................................................................ 85
Project Title: Removing Non-Value-Added Activity and Procedure ..................................................... 85
11.1 OBJECTIVES: .............................................................................................................................. 85
11.2 NEED OF PROJECT: ................................................................................................................... 85
11.3 SCOPE OF PROJECT: ................................................................................................................... 85
12.Literature review ................................................................................................................................ 86
12.1 Lean seven wastes are: .................................................................................................................... 87
13. CREATION OF STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE ............................................................. 89
13.1. Primary data: ................................................................................................................................ 89
13.2. Description of processes in spreading department ......................................................................... 89

13.2.1. Receiving Plan bunch.............................................................................................................. 89
13.3. Laying fabric ................................................................................................................................. 92
13.3.1 Manual spreading ...................................................................................................................... 93
13.3.2 Preparing spreading report ........................................................................................................... 95
13.3.3. Moving lays to the cutting area .................................................................................................. 96
13.4. Description of processes in cutting department ............................................................................. 96
13.4.1 Manual cutting (Using Plotter) .................................................................................................... 96
13.4.2 CAM cutting: ............................................................................................................................... 97
13.4.3. Marker planning and checking .................................................................................................. 97
13.4.4. Cutting instruction sheet checking points: ................................................................................ 98
13.5. Cutting: ....................................................................................................................................... 100
13.6. Pinning ......................................................................................................................................... 102
13.7Precise cutting of Block Parts ........................................................................................................ 104
13.8. Numbering and Assortment ......................................................................................................... 105
13.9 Numbering .................................................................................................................................... 106
13.10. FUSING .................................................................................................................................... 108
14.VISUAL DISPLAY ......................................................................................................................... 109
15. LAY SCHEDULE .......................................................................................................................... 109
16. REDUCTION OF FABRIC WASTAGE IN SPREADING ........................................................... 111
Money waste per day = Rs 58,656 ............................................................................................................ 116
17. REDUCTION OF UNWANTED MOVEMENT DURING FUSING ............................................... 116
18. IMPROVING PRODUCTION OF FUSING ............................................................................ 119
19. REDUCING UNWANTED DELAY IN ISSUE ...................................................................... 121
20. IMPLEMENTATION OF FEED TRACKING SHEET ........................................................... 125
21. STRING DIAGRAM: ............................................................................................................... 126
22. LAYOUT .................................................................................................................................. 130
23. JACKET DEPARTMENT .................................................................................................................. 132
23.1. Project title: Process improvement and efficiency of jacket floor and work on layout of trouser
floor ....................................................................................................................................................... 132
23.2 Objective of the project ................................................................................................................. 132
23.3 Need of Project ............................................................................................................................. 133
National Institute of Fashion Technology P a g e 10 |

23.4 Project outcome............................................................................................................................ 134

25. Operation Breakdown ......................................................................................................................... 135
25.1 Objective: ...................................................................................................................................... 135
Observation: ...................................................................................................................................... 135
25.2Problem identify......................................................................................................................... 136
25.3Primary Data collection ............................................................................................................. 137
1.Study The line &Work Station Layout ............................................................................................ 137
LINE-1 .................................................................................................................................................... 137
25.4 BASIC STYLE ............................................................................................................................. 137
25.5 semi critical ................................................................................................................................... 141
25.5 Machine dimensions ..................................................................................................................... 145
25.6 Exiting layout of line -1 ................................................................................................................ 146
25.6.1 Problems ................................................................................................................................ 146
25.7 Proposed layout of line -1 ............................................................................................................. 147
26. String Diagram .................................................................................................................................... 148
26.1 AIM:.............................................................................................................................................. 148
26.2Problem identified during observation:...................................................................................... 148
26.3 Primary data: ................................................................................................................................. 149
26.4 Solution ..................................................................................................................................... 150
27. PITCH TIME ...................................................................................................................................... 150
27.1 AIM:.............................................................................................................................................. 150
1. Problems: ...................................................................................................................................... 150
27.2 Time study .................................................................................................................................... 151
27.3 Skill Inventory of operators .......................................................................................................... 151
27.4 Result ............................................................................................................................................ 152
28 REDUCE REWORK ....................................................................................................................... 152
28.1 Need of the project ........................................................................................................................ 152
28.2 reasons behind the rework............................................................................................................. 153
28.3 Steps towards solution .................................................................................................................. 153
28.4 implementation of self-checking in sleeve section ....................................................................... 153
28.5 Five defects weekly report ............................................................................................................ 156
28.6 Jacket final .................................................................................................................................... 158
TOP FIVE DEFECTS ....................................................................................................................... 158

28.6 Benefits ......................................................................................................................................... 159
29 VISUAL DISPLAY ............................................................................................................................. 159
29.1aim: ................................................................................................................................................ 159
29.2 Problem Identified During Observation:....................................................................................... 159
29.3 Solution: ........................................................................................................................................ 159
HANGING NAME BOARD ON RESPECTIVE ROWS: ............................................................................ 160
NAMING ON RACKS........................................................................................................................... 161
: ......................................................................................................................................................... 161
30 TROUSER DEPARTMENTS ............................................................................................................. 162
30.1 Primary Data collection ................................................................................................................ 162
30.1.1Study the line &Work Station Layout..................................................................................... 162
LINE-1 .............................................................................................................................................. 162
30.2 Implementation of new layout ...................................................................................................... 162
30.2.1 Objective: ............................................................................................................................... 162
30.2.2Process flow ............................................................................................................................ 163
30.3 Problems identified ....................................................................................................................... 163
30.4 Methodology ................................................................................................................................. 163
31.5 Operation breakdown for the trouser line 1: ................................................................................. 165
30.6 Benefits: ........................................................................................................................................ 170
32 IMPLEMENTATIONS OF NEW TROUSER LINE .......................................................................... 170
32.1Objective: ....................................................................................................................................... 170
32.2 Methodology: ................................................................................................................................ 170
32.3 Operation breakdowns for new trouser style: ............................................................................... 171
32.4. Benefits: ....................................................................................................................................... 175
33 LAYOUT DEVELOPMENTS FOR NEW TROUSER LINE ............................................................................ 175
33.1Objective: ....................................................................................................................................... 175
33.2. Methodology: ............................................................................................................................... 175
33.3. Requirements: .............................................................................................................................. 176
33.4. Benefits: ....................................................................................................................................... 177
34 WIP REDUCTION .......................................................................................................................... 177
34.1 Objective: ...................................................................................................................................... 177
34.2 Observations: ................................................................................................................................ 177

34.3 Methodology: ................................................................................................................................ 177
34.4 WIP calculations: .......................................................................................................................... 177
34.5 Daily production report format. .................................................................................................... 178
34.6 Cutting department loading format. .............................................................................................. 179
34.7Benefits: ......................................................................................................................................... 179
35 CONCLUSIONS: ................................................................................................................................ 180
36. GLOSSARY OF FIGURES, TABLES, GRAPHS ............................................................................. 181

1. COMPANY PROFILE
Incorporated in 1925, the Raymond Group is an Rs.1400 crore plus conglomerate having
businesses in Textiles, Readymade Garments, Engineering Files & Tools, Prophylactics and
Toiletries.
The group is the leader in textiles, apparel, & files & tools in India and enjoys a pronounced
position in the international market. Raymond believes in Excellence, Quality and Leadership.
The largest and most respected textile brand in India, for addressing the innate need of men to look
good and at the same time possess strength of character. Raymond is considered a pioneer in the
development of the woolen and worsted textiles market in India, thanks to its continuous initiatives
in product development, marketing and distribution. A strong heritage of in house research and
development, a range of over 20,000 shades and designs, a distribution network of more than 4000
multi - brand outlets and over 281 exclusive retail shops, makes Raymond the largest and most
respected textile brand in India.
Raymond is uniquely positioned as a brand that addresses the innate need of men to look good and
at the same time possess strength of character. This emphasis on human values creates a warm
emotional link with consumers- the essence of 'The Complete Man'.
At Raymond’s consistent focus is on cutting-edge research and technology that has resulted in
pioneering new products, which have set new benchmarks in the worsted suiting industry in India.
Raymond has the distinction of producing the finest suiting in the world using super fine wool
from 80s to 230s count and blending the same with superfine polyester and other specialty fibers,
like Cashmere, Angora, Alpaca, Pure Silk, Linen etc.

1.1 RAYMOND- organization structure

1.2 Brands
Domestic-
• Park Avenue
• Parx
• Notting Hill
• ColorPlus
International-
• Jc Penney
• Express
• CT
• Konaka
• Peerless
• Pelstrom
• Sacoor Brothers
• Banana Republic
• Calvin Klein

2. Introduction- Dress Master Apparel Private Limited

Dress masters apparel limited is a wholly want subsidiary of Raymond limited, established on
September 10th 2016 in Peenya (Zone-1). This new unit manufactures suits, formal shirts and
trousers catering to domestic markets.
The state-of-the-art, manufacturing facilities at the plant, helps in producing 0.3million suits,
jackets and 0.3 million trousers annually. With a total buildup area of 2,00,000 sqft, the facility
houses state-of- the-art manufacturing equipment. Set up at a total project cost of USD 10 million,
the plant’s forte lies in the manufacture of suits.
The unit has a manufacturing capacity around 1000 suits (jacket, trouser and vest coat) and
shirts. There are 5 floors in the unit. The basement comprises of the fabric and trims store and
spreading and cutting section. The ground floor is warehouse. At 1st floor vest coat and jacket are
manufactured. At 2nd floor the trousers are manufactured. Shirts are manufactured in the 3rd floor
2.1 Unit profile

NAME OF THE COMPANY RAYMONDS
NAME OF THE UNIT Dress Master Apparel Private Limited
ADDRESS 76/77,6TH MAIN,3RD Phase ,Peenya

Banglore-560058
PH:080-66737654/70
HEAD OFFICE J.K. Gram ,Pokharan Road,

Thane,(Maharashtra)
DIRECTOR Mr KAUSHAL NARAYAN
YEAR OF ESTABLISHMENT
NATURE OF BUSINESS Exporters
PRODUCT CATEGORY Jackets, Vest Coat, Trousers &Shirts
MAIN EXPORT MARKET Japan ,US And Europe
BUYER Canada ,U.S, South Africa, Japan,U.K.

PRODUCTION CAPACITY 19,000 Jacket/Month

12,000 Trouser
Shirts
AREA 2886sq/feet
Table 1-Unit profile

2.2 Unit Organization Structure
Plant Head
Operations Support
functions
Fabric store
Hr & Admin
Trim store
Suit cutting Accounts
Jacket sewing & finishing maintenance
Trouser sewing & finishing IT (Out source)
Shirt manufacturing
Quality assurance
warehouse

3. PRODUCTS:
Trouser
Figure 1-Trouser
The different types of trousers made are:
• Double pleated
• Single pleated
• Flat front
• Trouser with lining
• Trouser without lining
• Trouser with bottom cuff
• Trouser with normal bottom hem

Vest Coat
Two types of vest coat form-
• Half lining
• Full lining
Figure 2-vest coat

Jacket
Figure 3-Jacket
Types of Jacket:
FULL CANVAS –The canvas front structure is first pad stitched together consisting of the desired
layers from chosen materials. It is then basted into the jacket front covering the majority of the
jacket and giving it the greatest possible stability and support.
HALF CANVAS – The fusing is used to support the section where the canvas does not reach, the
fusing is extended past the canvas only so there is no evidence of the finished line of fusing and is
excluded in the lapel. The canvas stops just below the pocket. A fused jacket is own that has had
glue applied to stiffen in an attempt to simulate canvas.
FULLY FUSED – There is no wool canvas and the chest piece is applied using the same method
as for the padded lap.

4. Departmental Flow

4.1 Fabric Store and Trim Store

Fabric Receiving Process:
Fabric recieved Report Purchasing Department
Checking of P.O. If not as per requirement
If as per requirement
Checking Packing list,

Invoice and Lorry way
bill
Unloading fabric
Entry acc to PO ref no
GRN & Swatch card GRN sent to Accounts Department

prepration
Swatch sent to
merchandiser for
approval

Fabric Issuing Process:
Prod plannig Meeting
Inspection as per
discussion
Entry on stage
Report send to cutting CAD Department makes maker

dept.
Enrty on stage Cutting Department makes Indent
Recieving sample
intend, Lay report and
trolley as per daily
requirement
Entry of rolls issued into

Register
Fabric gate pass
Fabric issued

Total Manpower: 12
Daily Target for Jacket: 1530m
Daily Target for Trouser 1820m

Daily Target for Shirt 1620m
Daily Target for Vest Coat 212m
Inspection Machine 5 m/c
CSV Machine 1m/c Juki(SNLS)
Table 2-fabric store details
Process
Once the Raw material or fabric is been sent by the suppliers to the company and once they reach
In- House the concerned person keeps the track of all the documents and material, he/she checks
the quantity of material in–house and the material ordered and cross checks i.e., he checks the
materials against invoice/ DC / Packing list.
After conformation, he/she enters the details in STAGE. After preparing the GRN(Goods Received
Note) they have to do the bill entry and keep the record and maintain the document of whatever
the slips received or delivered.
Then the entries are forwarded to the head office for the checking and payment. Then after
preparing the GRN of everything that has been received a process selection is been made.
Checking
In this step, the work order is being prepared and also the delivery of goods and the formalities
regarding the goods has to be carried out. All this happens in the process of receiving the goods to
in-house, there has to be another action which the fabric store has to take care of is the situation of
delivering the fabric to the other units and also to the cutting department of the same unit.
This department receives the required documents of the production issues/exports and similar other
related aspects from the merchants and then as soon as they receive this they enter the details of
the PO/export/process follow ups into the STAGE. The department then checks the material
availability with respect to the PO and other documents as per the merchants given details. Then

they look at the production issues/export and as per that two things are done. First, they pick the
material as per the approval that would have been given by the fabric audit department and then
they prepare the challan and keep it ready for issue to the cutting department of the unit.
Fabric inspection:
• Complete visual inspection is been done by 4 point inspection system.
• They prepare 8 parameter report.
• 100% checking for the shell fabric, 10% for the pocketing lining and fusing.
• They prepare CSV i.e. (centre to selvedge and selvedge to selvedge).
Staff Workload
Name Activity Undertaken Time Frequency Technology
(Mins) Used By
Operator
1. Kalander - Printer
• Roll in inspection m/c 10 - E-mail
• Receive material from 30 - Trolley

gate
• Unloading fabric from 120-180 -

truck
2. Kamraj - Printer

gate

truck

• Issuing fabric for 30 20- 25 times/day

cutting
• Job work
4-5 times/day
• Excel entry
15-20 -
• Ready Material
20 -
• Loading
120-180 -
3. Saniya - Printer

gate

truck
• Issuing fabric for

30 20- 25 times/say
cutting
• Job work
4-5 times/day
• Excel entry
15-20 -
• Ready Material
20 -
• Loading
120-180 -
4. Sunita • Stage entry for issuing 20 15- 20 times/day Printer

fabric
E-mail
• Job work
4-5 times/day Trolley
• Excel entry
15-20 - Stage entry

• Ready Material 20 -
• Loading 120-180 -
• Material status
o Prepare BOM 2 days Every 20 days

report
o Updating Report
30-45 1 time/day
• Check Accounts tally
- 1 time/month
- 1 time/day
5. Manju • Re rolling of sample, 15-20 10-12 times/day Printer

pocket, canvas, shell
E-mail
etc.
Trolley
• Checking& re- rolling
15-20 50-60 times/day
sample fabric
• Helping quality people

in making shade card - -
• Helping in issuing re
roll fabric
- -
6. Kempuanja • Issuing fabric for 30 20- 25 times/day Printer

ma cutting
E-mail
• Job work
- 4- 5 times/day Trolley
• Excel entry
15-20 -
• Ready Material
20 -

• Loading 120-180 -
7. Bhagya • Issuing fabric for 30 20- 25 times/day Printer

cutting
E-mail
• Stage issue
20 15- 20 times/day Trolley
Stage entry
8. Bhagya • Issuing fabric for 30 20- 25 times/day Printer

cutting
E-mail
• Job work
- 4-5 times/day Trolley
• Excel entry
15-20 -
• Ready Material
20 -
• Loading
120-180 -
9. Lata • Making GRN 15 15-20 times/day Printer
• Swatch card 60 15-20 times/day E-mail
• Helping in Sampling - - Trolley
• Unloading 180 7 times/ day Stage entry
responsibility
10. Asha • Width report handling 30 min 12-13 times/day Printer

(for 15 to
E-mail
20 rolls)
Trolley
• Sending
inspection
report to cutting
department

• Width report
entry in stage
11. Lavanya • Issuing fabric for - 10 times/day Printer

Sampling
E-mail
• Physically
30-60 - Trolley
checking
availability
• Checking width
report 15 -
• Issuing
according
30-40 -
• Receiving sample fabric
(making swatch card and ledger

15 4 times/day
entry)
12. Anusha • ABC analysis 60 1times/day Printer
• Job work - 4-5 times/ day E-mail
• Excel entry 15-20 - Trolley
• Ready Material 20 - Stage entry
• Loading 120-180 -
• Stage entry for issuing 20 15-20 times/day

fabric
Table 3-staff work load of fabric store
❖ A BOM report is prepared for the orders every 20 days by Sunita during 20th to 25th of
every month, to check the material status which is later updated daily.
❖ Unloading of the fabric from the truck takes place 7 times a day. It is done collectively by
Kalander, Saniya and Kamraj whosoever is available at that time.
❖ Also, fabric inspection of about 1000 to 1500 meters of fabric occurs per day per machine
(5 machines in all). The loading of fabric roll onto machine is again done collectively by
Kalander, Saniya and Kamraj whosoever is available at that time.
❖ Manju does re-rolling of about 2000- 2500 meters of fabric occurs in a day.
NOTE -All the above values for time and frequency have been taken considering the average
to maximum possible value. The values may be less some days depending upon the order
quantity
Concerns:
• Excess inventory
• Difficulty in locating fabric rolls
• Insufficient Man- power (require 19)
• Store and Goodwin to be separate to easily manage inventory
Suggestions:
• RFID will help in making documents automatically.
• RFID will help in tracking inventory.

Quality process in fabric store
REPORT APPROVED
SHRINKAGE AND
FABRIC ROLL BY QUALITY
CSV MARKER
RECIEVED MANAGER AND
PREPARTION
MERCHENDISER
100% INSPECTION
SHADE BAND AND
FOR SHELL
WIDTH REPORT FABRIC ISSUED
,10%INSPECTION
PREPARATIO
OF LINING
IF LINING
REOPRT REJECTED
REJECTED THEN
OR ACCEPTED
100% INSPECTION
TOTAL NO OF MACHINE 5
SPEED OF MACHINE 0.6m/min
INSPECTION SPEED 0.20/min
TOTAL POWER 1.8KN
MAX ROLL DIA 350mm
STRECH ADJUSTMENT 200N
Table 4-Machine details
Total No Of Lights 13
Total No Of Fans 4
Shrinkage Table 1
Length of the table 72 inch
Width of the table 48 inch
Rack For Fabric Storage (shrinkage sample) 1
Table 5-quality equipment details

4.2 Trims store:

Trim receiving process
Trim Recieved
Unloading
Quantity If any issue, informs

checking merchandiser
Quality
checking by QC
Making trim Sending Trim Card to

card Merchandiser
Sending GRN to Trims

Making GRN
Department
Trims placed on
racks
Updating bin crd

and trims board

Trims issuing process
Preparing trims for issue
Recieving cutting report
Sample indent from

sewing and finishing dept.
Issuing the trim
Entry of indent in stage
Once the Raw material or Trims is been sent by the suppliers to the co company and once they
reach In- House the concerned person keeps the track of all the documents and material, he/she
checks the quantity of material in–house and the material ordered and cross checks i.e., he checks
the materials against invoice/ DC / Packing list.
After conformation, he/she enters the details in STAGE. After preparing the GRN (Goods
Received Note) they have to do the bill entry and keep the record and maintain the document of
whatever the slips received or delivered.
Then the entries are forwarded to the head office for the checking and payment. Then after
preparing the GRN of everything that has been received a process selection is been made.

Quality process in trim store
Quality Checks for Sewing Trims
Zipper color, length, puller, working condition etc

Label print quality, color, size etc.
Buttons broken, without hole, color, size, thickness etc.
Thread color, no. of ply, tkt no. etc.
Elastic width, stretchability
Twill Tape width, weave structure, color

Quality Checks for Packing Trims
Labels size, colour, print quality
Hang Tags size, colour, print, string
Stickers gum strength, colour, size print quality etc
Sizer Print quality, size.
Polybag measurement, print quality
Table 6-checking details of trims
Quality Check for Accessories

Belt – length, width, colour buckle quality etc. On receipt of goods they prepares inspection
shortage report in case of no discrepancy in quantities is observed the inspection shortage report

shall show the variance as nil. And forward the inspection shortage report to commercial and also
to the concern merchandiser.
Other Activities
• Pre-production meeting updates them about any change in the production schedule.
• In every seven to ten day they retrieve stage report to store report to match the inventory
Staff Description
14 staffs in trims department
• 3 in packing
• 2 in inventory- to unload and check the quantity of received trims and also make trim card
• Order issuing activity - 1 for sample,1 for Hagger , 4 for other brands
• 3 for entry in stage- GRN, PO etc.
Name Activity Undertaken Time Frequency Technology

(Min) Used By
Operator
1. Gopal • Issuing materials for 30- 60 5 - 6+ times/day Printer

packaging for both job
2. Suhasini Scanning
work
(Assistant) M/C
Trolley
3. Nagraj • Issuing hangers, polybag 30 – 60 5 - 6+ times/day Printer

and cartons
Scanning
• Updating bin card M/C
and board
Trolley
4. Hansa • Issue material for sewing 60 5+ times/day Printer

(Express, BRFS)

5. Jyoti • Maintaining buttons Scanning

(Assistant) status M/C
• Physically Trolley
checking, entry in
stage, updating 1-2 days 1 time/ week
bin card and

board
• Receiving
&keeping in rack
120 3 times/week
6. Shreenath • Issuing material for 30-60 4- 10 times/week E-Mails

sewing (Peerless, Sakur
7. Nalini Printer
Brothers, Hagger)
(Assistant)
Scanning
• Maintaining status of
M/C
tapes (armhole, heel),
waist band roll, waist Routine Everyday
band lining, buckle, Work
shoulder pad
8. Radha • Issuing material for 30 -60 5+ times/day Printer

sewing and finishing
Scanning
(Konark, HMS)
M/C
• Maintaining status of all
Printing label
Routine Everyday
kinds of thread
work Barcode,
Cartoon
sticker,

Prepack
sticker, Bag
ID sticker
9. Saroj • Issuing material for 30 – 60 5+times/day Printer

sewing (City)
Scanning
• Maintaining status of M/C
Routine
zipper and slider
work
10. Mohan • Receiving material from 60- 120 5-10 times/ day Printer
gate & unloading
11. Padma Scanning
• Checking Quantity & M/C
Making trim card
1- 3 days 5- 10 times/day
12. Pavitra R. • Issuing material for 30 -60 10- 20 times/day Printer

sewing (Samples)
Scanning
• Helping in inventory M/C
- -
13. Pavitra A. • Making GRN 10 – 120 - Stage Entry
• In-house Status 30 - E-Mails
• Ledger Entry 60- 90 1 time/day Printer
• Making Xerox and giving 30+ - Scanning
to Account Dept. M/C
14. Srinivasanu • Making GRN 10 – 120 - Stage Entry
• Issuing Stationary 60- 90 1 time/day E-Mails
• Issuing for Outsourcing 1 - Printer

Scanning
M/C
15. Sudha • Making stage entry for 30/slip - Stage Entry

issued material
E-Mails
• Maintaining Konark
- 1 time/month Printer
status
Scanning
M/C
16. Radha • Printing label,Barcode, - - Bartender,

Cartoon sticker, Prepack Sticker
17. Deepika
sticker, Bag ID sticker printing M/C
18. Deepa
Table 7-staff work load of trim store
NOTE: The values quoted represent average to maximum value. Also, for some activities the
value heavily depends on the order quantity, thus have not been quoted. The respective values may
thus vary depending on the order quantity.
Concerns
• Various trims from Allen group get mixed on their way to factory; they need to be separated
before counting.
• Stage server is down for nearly half of the time.
• All the material corresponding to an order can’t be issued at once, different trims require
separate issuing process.
• Issuing according to consumption daily and maintaining daily records (while in stage they
issue all at once) is cumbersome process.
• The godown and mini store must be separate.
• There is excess inventory so they can’t use the bin cards properly.

Suggestions:
• Keeping the records of trims by using weight sensing devices.
4.3 CAD Department

Following is description of how the activities currently occur in the CAD department.
Process flow
File received
Patterns from CAD (BOM, Order Quantity,
Tech pack)
Planning (cut order

plan)
10 Parameter Report Width Report

Marker making
Checking fabric
consumption
Providing consumption
to merchandiser
Sending lay report to

cutting department
❖ The width report and patterns are received electronically via mail so that the CAD
department can start with a pattern, while file and 8 parameter report is received later in
hard copy.
❖ While issuing the patterns they need to make entry into records about patterns of what order
were received by whom in CAD from whom in pattern department and take the respective
signatures.

❖ The marker is directly communicated to the cutting machine electronically (“Cut File”) or
to the plotting machine.
❖ They make around 60 markers per style (lining, shell, trim fabrics combined) according to
quantities corresponding to different sizes.
4.4 Pattern Department

Following is description of how the activities currently occur in the Pattern department.
Process Flow
Marking pattern formation
Merchandiser
give Tech pack
to the department
Pattern made Marking pattern

according to the formation
tech pack
Pattern sent to the

CAD department

4.5 Spreading and cutting section

Process flow of cutting department
No. of workers: 92
Daily production target:
• Jacket: 800(2 lines)
• Trouser: 1500(3 lines)
There are two automatic spreading machines, four manual spreading tables, two automatic cutting
machines, two band knife machines and one straight knife machine. The spreading tables are
equipped with turning table that facilitates spreading in face to face mode.
Process
Patterns are created based on specification sheet by the buyer on Gerber Technology software
version 8.2 with file type as Accumark Piece. The file is saved in the Accumark explorer buyer
wise and can be exported and used in pdf formats as well. The pattern are graded size wise and
sent to the CAD department via e-mail for marker making and to check consumption; P.O. vs
Actual.
After the preparation of 8-format report, which tests the parameter; width report, shade report,
CSV/non CSV report, shrinkage report, fabric inspection report (4-point system), face side
approval, color fastness report, shade band report, the report goes to the CAD room for the
preparation of marker from the pattern received. Cut Order Plan is prepared when file is received
in the CAD room. COP is prepared for main chest canvas, shoulder canvas, sleeve head canvas,
chest felt, and sleeve head felt. COP of UCF for each color is also prepared.
Markers are decided by ratio and the types included:
1. Suit- 4way
2. Jacket-6 way
3. Trouse-6 way
Marker is prepared using Gerber Technology.
Currently, they follow: “More plies, less length” for laying of the fabric. Although, it is believed
that longer length ensures higher efficiency. The efficiency can also be increased by changing
pattern design or by adding more number of pattern sizes.
MRS is submitted to the fabric store for issuance of fabric; mentioning the full required quantity
which is issued at once except shell which is ordered colour wise.
For laying, 4 tables are used. Spreading mode like face-to-face, open, CSV and non-CSV are used.
2 automatic spreaders are in place wherein one is used for laying open lay for canvas and one
spreader table is used as re-cutting table. Another table is used for cutting sample pieces.
Cutting is done by 2 Gerber technology cutters; GTxL and GT7250. The cutting machines have
standard setups of cotton and wool with standard inputs.
Each machine has one operator and 2 helpers for simultaneous loading of parts to numbering table.
There are 4 Hoshima band knife cutting machines used for cutting collar blocks. Auto stripe cutting
machine

Numbering is the process of putting serial to the cut parts for easy identification on the sewing
floor and for avoiding mixing of parts cut in the same lot. It aids in grouping same lot with same
shade of cut parts together to avoid shade variation in the final product. Numbering is done in two
ways; stamping on the lining and using the numbering machine, tickets are stuck on the face side
of garment part.
Checking is carried out for all the panels for jacket; lining and shell and Trouser shell and small
parts. A daily report is maintained regarding the defects found in each lot and necessary cut parts
are sent for re-cutting. Defects commonly checked for the shade variation, weaving damage, slubs,
knots, oil stains, holes, stains amongst others.
Four fusing machines are available of Veit Kanneisgier with different temperature settings; two
for jackets, one for trouser and one for vest coat.
Bundling is the last step before loading the cut parts onto the sewing floors. The bundle size is pre-
determined; trouser followed the 5- piece bundle system initially while the jacket parts are bundled
as per the lay size. The tag on the bundle describe the part name, style no, size no, bundle no, serial
of pieces, total no of pieces.
Concerns
• Capacity planning for the department required, to know the maximum potential of the
department.
• No trolleys for keeping trims in the department
• Lost cut pieces
• There are very few multi-skill operators
• Overhauling of machines is required
• There is no preventive maintenance schedule for the department
• The input from CAD usually runs late
• No schedule for cutting machine so causes idleness of operator and spreading table.

Quality process in cutting department
CHECKING OF SPREADING,
MITERING, SPREADING
CUTTING
TROUSER JACKET SHELL JACKET LINING

CHECKING CHECKING CHECKING
PARTS NO OF CHECKERS NO OF PARTS CHECKED

BEFORE FUSING
FRONT ,BACK PANEL 2 100% CHECKING
SMALL PARTS , 1 TOP , MIDDLE , BOTTOM
POCKETING
AFTER FUSING
WAIST BAND 1 100% CHECKING
Table 8-Trouser checking on cutting floor

Jacket shell checking
Total 2 checkers are checking jacket shell before and after fusing
PARTS USE OF PATTERN

BEFORE FUSING
FRONT ZERO SHRINKAGE PATTERN
BACK ZERO SHRINKAGE PATTERN
SIDE PANEL ZERO SHRINKAGE PATTERN
IN SLEEVE ZERO SHRINKAGE PATTERN
TOP SLEEVE ZERO SHRINKAGE PATTERN
LAPEL ZERO SHRINKAGE PATTERN
AFTER FUSING
FRONT SHRINKAGE PATTERN
BACK SHRINKAGE PATTERN
SIDE PANEL SHRINKAGE PATTERN
IN SLEEVE SHRINKAGE PATTERN
TOP SLEEVE SHRINKAGE PATTERN
LAPEL SHRINKAGE PATTERN
Table 9-checking of jacket (shell) cut parts on cutting floor
Jacket lining checking
Total 2 checkers are checking jacket lining
PARTS USE OF PATTERN

FRONT ZERO SHRINKAGE PATTERN
BACK ZERO SHRINKAGE PATTERN
SIDE PANEL ZERO SHRINKAGE PATTERN
IN SLEEVE ZERO SHRINKAGE PATTERN
TOP SLEEVE ZERO SHRINKAGE PATTERN
LAPEL ZERO SHRINKAGE PATTERN
Table 10- checking of jacket (lining) cut parts on cutting floor

4.6 Sewing department

4.6.1 Trouser department
Number of trouser lines 3
Production system over head conveyor
Total number of operators 200
Capacity of the floor 1200
Target of the floor 1000
Production 300
Efficiency 50%
Table 11-trouser floor details
After receiving the tech pack details sewing floor sends a request for the cut parts from the cutting
and sorting section and the request is sent to the trim store for all the trims that are required for the
particular style then they start the production for the new style.
Before starting the proper production the production floor does a process of batch setting for the
floor which is training the operators for the new style that has to be produced in bulk.
After this batch setting process the production for the next day starts with the smaller commitment
i.e., may be for 50pcs. For the entire day and then the production gradually increases from 50-100-
150 and so on, this will make the operators learn slowly and precisely about the processes that has
to be carried out for the particular style.
The cut parts are sent from the cutting section to the sewing floor which undergoes
preparatory processes, front and back section, assembly 1, assembly 2, finishing and packing
processes. After packing the trousers are sent to the ware house.
During the process of garment making there exists two types of checking, they are
• In-process checking.
• End-line checking – here there exist both AQL audit and normal checking.

Quality process in trouser
• Trouser floor is having 3 sewing lines

• Table showing checkpoint in trouser line,
CHECK POINTS PARTS

Side seam
In line inspection Front pocket
J stitch
Waist band attach
(Inside, outside)
Back rise
Label
Front slide
End line inspection Inside, outside
Serging
Back pocket
Front pocket
Back rise
Front rise
Right fly
Crotch
Bottom
Key hole , bottom
Table 12-checking details of trouser floor

No. Defects in trouser sewing end line inspection
Broken/ Placement/
Mismatc Measureme
Skipped Uneven Slanted Puckering h nt Damage
Sr.
Crotch
1 Serging twisted Pleats Button Side/ inseam joint Panel Shaded part
2 Pocket bag Side pocket Dart B/P Bone W/B lining Pocket Fabric defect
Back pkt Stripes/Ch

3 Side/inseam bone Pkt W/B ecks Waist wrong Size
Facing Bottom
4 Pin tacking width Loop Back rise hem Inseam Stain
Pocket
5 Buttonhole open Lable J-stitch Ditch stitch visible
6 Waistband Loops Buttonhole Panel slider up & down
7 W/B hemming Waistband Bartack
8 Loop J-stitch Hook & Eye
Bottom
9 J-stitch hem
10 Bottom cuff
Table 13- checking details of trouser floor

Finishing and packaging

The finishing and packaging section for garment is on ground floor as the HR and Admin
section.
After washing and other surface finishing, the dried garments are brought to the finishing
floor. Various activities undertaken before packaging are:
Cut plastic on label: The plastic pouches wrapped over labels attached to the garments so
as they do not catch any colour bleed while washing of the garment are cut and removed.
Trim thread: Extra thread that are left on the garment while sewing are trimmed off.
Measurement checking: All measurement is checked once more so as to ensure there is no

deviation from the required specification due to post wash shrinkage.
Alteration: If any measurement is found appropriate and it is correctable, it is sent for

alteration on the same floor. Measurement is again checked and sent for the further process
Pressing: Ironing is done often by steam press. Those garments whose specification is not
to use a press, are set on the topper which removes the wrinkle out of the garment.
Final checking: A final check is further done so as to assure the quality specification, trims
attachments, quality of stitching, measurement specification and other features that may have
been left out during previous inspection.
Packaging: Individual garments are brought in packaging section. They are then
individually packed and then put in carton as per buyer’s specification. Packing is done
manually by hand held Tape Dispenser.
The finished goods store is located in the same floor as the office and merchandising
department. The Finished Goods Store is common for the trouser garments as well as jackets.
After packaging and internal audit, the cartons are shifted to the finished goods store where
after external audit, they are sent for shipment.

4.6.2 Jacket manufacturing

There are two lines having a capacity of 500 jackets per day and one vest coat line. The
material handling in the jacket line happens through a hanger system. In the vest coat line,
the material flows in bundles. There are two finishing line, where pressing and stain removal
of jacket happen. Once finishing is done, they are 100% inspected and sent to warehouse.
For suits, the packing happens in the warehouse after matching then with the respective vest
coat and trouser. But for jacket, the packing happens in the same floor.
Quality process in jacket
CHECKPOINTS NO OF CHECKER LIGHT AND FAN
front checking 1 1 light
lining inspection 3 light,1 fan
Sleeve inspection 1 2 fan .2 light
Assembly 1 1 2 light
Assembly 2 1 2 light , 2 fan
End line inspection 2( 1 shell, 1 lining) 2
Table 14-checking detail of jacket floor
Quality process in vest coat
The jacket floor has a line for manufacturing vest coat.
CHECKING POINTS PARTS NO OF NO OF

CHECKERS LIGHT,FAN
front inspection inside 1 2 light
Topside
Pocket
Bottom
Lapel
final inspection front -2 4 2light, 1 fan
pocket -2

back -2
belt -2
back panel
Dart
Table 15-checking details of vest coat floor
4.6.4 Shirt manufacturing

The shirt manufacturing is relatively smaller compared to suit manufacturing. The entire
manufacturing process from spreading to packing happen on the same floor. The fabric is
ordered from fabric store an is then spread and cut manually on this floor. There are two band
knives and two die cutting machine. There are two lines with a capacity of 1400 shirts per
day.
4.7 Warehouse
The warehouse, situated on the ground floor has the capacity to hold 5 days inventory. This
floor also has a packing section for the trouser and complete suits. The jackets are packed
into carton box inn number of 2 in each box. The final presentation check for jackets and
vest coat also happen on the floor.
4.8 Merchandising department

Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executed, and
presented to the buyer. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line
from start to finish. Marketing and merchandising department: A team of merchandiser and
marketers work together under a profit control head. Merchandiser handle the foreign buyers.
The team are made according to the buyer being handled.
4.9 Production planning and control department

The primary objective of PPC department is to assess the factory’s capacity for the orders
received. when a new order is conceived this department evaluates the capacity after
considering all the current orders, and gives a feedback to the marketing/merchandising
department whether the order can be fulfilled in the stipulated duration or not.
• PPC is mainly concerned with:
• Trims collection details.

• Fabric collection details.
• Line plan.
• Execution of the plan.
PPC acts as a bridge between merchandising and production. The order detail sheet(ODS) is
given to PPC by merchandiser which contains information about projected orders. ODS
contains information like: style, ORAPPS no., delivery date, SAM of garments, embroidery
and printing details, washing details, fabric sort number, consumption in house, trims etc. 40
days lead time is given. The PPC fixes the order. After the order confirmation, planning is
done. Care is taken while planning that similar style should be loaded on same line to increase
the productivity. At the time of order confirmation, merchants also give production file
having styling details, specification sheet, bill of material (BOM) to PPC to communicate
buyer’s requirement to production. Order document print (ODP)contain all the minute detail
of the garment. Purchase requisition, Purchase order and Performa invoice are also received
with sealer’s sample and pattern.
After the receipt of all the above-mentioned things from the merchandising department, size
set is prepared. Care is taken that PCD (planned cut date) meets all the requirement of trims,
fabric etc. 7 days in advance. Bulk production starts after 2 weeks from the size set, sample.
Continuous monitoring of the plan is the main objective of PPC.
4.10 Records maintained in the department(ppc)

Production file: keeping records of all relevant details pertaining to an order, order detail
sheet, specification sheet (Before wash/ after wash), tech pack, and trim cards etc, for all
order.
Sample movement register: keeping records of all the movement of original samples in and
out of department.
PP meeting register: keeping records of minute of PP meeting (style wise/ buyer wise).
Daily production report: keeping cutting, sewing, washing, and finishing& shipment report
on daily basis.
Monthly sewing report: keeping a record of style wise daily production and monthly report.
Taper report: keeping record of shrinkage & shade each fabric sort.
Order completion report: Keeping OCRs for all the orders completed and shipped out.
4.11 Maintenance department

Maintenance department is consisting of electrician and machine mechanic.
Maintenance department doing their job for a particular style at the time of size set sample
and pilot run sample. What type of machines, folder and guides required to complete the
operation is planned so that in bulk production it runs smoothly. If a complicated style
requires extra folder and guides then they arrange for it.
Machine mechanics are always alert in production floor, cutting room, and finishing
department so that no lost time for machine breakdown creates and electricians are
supervising every part of the unit.
Unacceptable quality of product often results ill-maintained machines. Breakdown and

preventive maintenance is primarily aimed toward reduced downtime and increased life
respectively. Proper machine maintenance is also necessary to avoid casualties at the floor.
Some of the function of the cutting floor.
• Care of the fitting.
• Adjusting fitting.
• Oil changing.
• Graph maintenance.
• Outward/inward reports.
• Needle weekly reports
• Machine and equipment checking
• Needle log cards.

Project Work

5. FABRIC STORE
Project title: Reducing the retrieval time of fabric store

5.1 MODIFICATION OF LAYOUT
5.1.1 Objective:
To modify the layout by analyzing the rack capacity, no. of racks and material stock of the fabric
store and increasing the store space to achieve effective material flow.
5.1.2 Previous layout:

➢ Racks are arranged horizontally and the space between the racks is 5.5ft.
➢ Operators place the fabrics blindly in the racks which they found empty.
➢ Inspection machines are placed vertically in a line and it covers 48ft.
➢ There are bin cards for racks and are placed at the sides every rack which contain the
details of fabric in rack.
Area 7685 sq.ft
No. Of racks 237
Rack capacity 2200
Table 16-previous layout details

Figure 4-loading/un loading area Figure 5-previous layout
Figure 6-un organized roll & pallet Figure 7-previous arrangement of m/c

5.1.3 Observations and problem identification:

After analyzing and critically examining the existing stores, the following observations were made,
• Fabric rolls and accessories received in the material inward area were stored
Unscientifically.
• Uneven arrangement of fabric rolls.
• Very low utilization of storage space.
• Non availability of storage racks for many fabrics.
• Used materials are improperly stored.
• Bin cards are missing and getting damaged because of not having folders.
• Enormous time to identify materials for retrieval.
5.1.4 Methodology:
• Layout of the line was studied and streamlined for the ease of material flow.
• Record the present storage capacity per rack according to material wise i.e jacket, shirt,
trouser & vest coat.
Material Rack capacity
Jacket 2200
Shirt 2700
Trouser 2400
Vest coat 2200
Table 17-Material wise rack capacity
• Planning the layout considering the storage area and 4m i.e. Man, machine, material and
method/measurement.
• Discussion with managers for changing the layout with the recorded data.
• Racks should be arranged vertically to increase the number of racks and to give easy man
and material flow.
• Bin cards should be placed in bin card folders for uniformity and to avoid the chances of
missing and damage.

• Inspection machines should be placed near to the loading and unloading area for easy
material flow which are arranged back to back to utilize store space.
• Fabric should be arranged according to buyer wise and category wise to reduce the retrieval
time.
• Inwarded fabrics are directly kept in racks instead of pallets to reduce the traffic of material
flow in the fabric store.
• Indent window is made in the store for the cutting department to pass the indent to the
store.
• Implement the layout according to the plan.
• Evaluate the performance of the stores after layout change as shown in table.
5.1.5 Benefits:
• We increased the capacity of the store and the number of racks.
• Provided proper place for the bin card to avoid getting missed or damaged.

S. EXISTING LAYOUT PROPOSED LAYOUT OF FABRIC STORE

N OF FABRIC STORE NO.OF RACKS : 315
O NO. OF RACKS : 23 CASE 1 CASE 2
7
JAC SHI TROU VE JAC SHI TROU VES JAC SHI TROU VE
KET RT SER ST KET RT SER T KET RT SER ST
CO CO CO
AT AT AT
1 Per day production 864 120 1300 400 864 120 1300 400 300 120 3000 400
(garments) 0 0 0 0
2 Rack capacity 2200 270 2400 220 2200 270 2400 220 2200 270 2400 220
( in mts) 0 0 0 0 0 0
3 Average fabric 1.77 1.3 1.4 0.5 1.77 1.3 1.4 0.5 1.77 1.3 1.4 0.5
consumption per 5 3 5 3 5 3
garment
(in mts)
4 Garments from 1243 200 1715 415 1243 200 1715 415 1243 200 1715 415
one rack capacity 0 1 0 1 0 1
5 Garments from 933 150 1287 311 933 150 1287 311 933 150 1287 311
one rack of 75% 0 4 0 4 0 4
capacity
(in mts) 0 0 0
(%)
8 No. of racks 76 66 83 12 101 88 113 13 154 38 117 6
required
9 Inventory (in days) 82 83 82 93 109 110 112 101 48 47 50 101
Table 18-exiting & modified rack details

Figure 8-Previous layout of fabric store
Figure 9-Modified layout

5.2 SORT &SHINE:

5.2.1 Objective:
To simplify work environment, reduce waste and non-value-added activity while improving
quality efficiency.
After analyzing and critically examining the existing stores, the following observations were made,
• Fabric rolls and accessories received in the material inward area were stored
Unscientifically.
• Uneven arrangement of fabric rolls.

• Used materials are improperly stored.
• Enormous time to identify materials for retrieval.
5.2.2 Methodology:
• Observing all the activities in the fabric store
• Analyzing and list out the various activities that appear in the fabric store
• Identifying the waste
• Preparation of waste with their correct one so that the waste is distinguished.
• Comparison of before and after
5.2.3 Sort:
Fabric rolls, materials and records were physically segregated and grouped. ABC analysis
Was conducted for the materials and the results are,
A class items – shell
B class items – lining, fusing
C class items – canvas interlining, waist band lining, felt & pocketing
Particulars A class items B class items C class items

Total no. Of items % 42.33 38.04 19.59
Cumulative % of items 14.28 28.57 57.14
Table 19-ABC analysis (June-17 data)

Existing Proposed Benefits

Storage space in the form of The storage space used 100% utilization of
empty racks in the fabric Effectively by segregating the Storage space.
layout storage not being fabric rolls received.
Effectively.
Infrequently and Infrequently and • Easy retrieval of items.
Frequently used fabric Frequently used fabric • Less clutter to interfere with
Rolls and inventory stored Rolls and accessories are productive work.
Haphazardly. Sorted and properly
Placed.
Proper methodologies Abc analysis • Easy visual identification and
And procedures not used Implemented wherein retrieval of accessories.
For identifying and Accessories are sorted. • Simplification of tasks.
Retrieving of accessories Colour tags also used.
Table 20-comparision between existing and proposed sort states
Proposed tag system for sorting:

The existing system in the stores department did not provide any identification tags for
The materials. To rectify this, the following material identification tags (each of' a
Specified colour) were prepared and classified as,
• Green for inspected goods
• Yellow for uninspected goods
• Red for rejected goods
The fabrics received in the stores department from various suppliers were first subjected to quality
assessment. The status of the garment rolls at each rack was not clearly maintain in the existing
system. Hence the information should be maintain clearly on boards. This provides the vital
information of the rack board, and can used as a visual display for different fabrics and their status.

5.2.4 Straighten
Remove unwanted /unnecessary items and to retain only those which are wanted/necessary.
All the materials in the stores department are considered and those items that seem to be
unwanted/unnecessary were identified and classified. Materials that were used on a daily basis
were given material identification tags according to abc classification. Red tags were designed to
indicate materials that will be either used in future or materials that will be scrapped.
RED TAG FORM
Item name: Tag no. Tagged by:

Tag date:
Classification:
Reasons:
Disposition required:
Action taken
Action description:
New location: New cell/area Approved by:
Date:
Table 21-red tag form

Red tag log was suggested to record information about all tags used on a red tag so that disposition
is tracked easily.
Materials and records were then organized in such a way that the necessary items are
Placed close to where they are needed and in such a way that any waste or abnormality is
Apparent. In this situation, the store personnel can quickly assess the condition of the
Material and determine whether or not abnormal conditions exist.
Existing Proposed Benefits
Lack of visual Colour coding and ABC analysis of Easy recognition of
identification to materials can be done. accessories and frequently
differentiate between used items at hand.
materials.
Racks and materials kept Unused materials removed Unnecessary and
in And disposed off. infrequently used materials
Sub store not used and the can be removed.
Materials arranged
Haphazardly.
Table 22-comparision between existing & proposed straighten states
5.2.5 Shine:
The operator should make sure that her workstation is clean above and below. This would help to
maintain the cleanliness in the module
Figure 10-before shine Figure 11-After shine

Observation:
This would help in having a neat and more spacious work area.
Unnecessary & non-urgent items:
Figure 12-unwanted fabric samples Figure 13-maintained workstations
• There should not be any unnecessary item on the workstation.

• For ex – if shrinkage of navy colour trouser fabric is going on then check fabric for shirt
and black fabric should not be there at the workstation, any unnecessary papers, tape,
panels, swatch should not be there etc.
5.3 STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE:
5.3.1 Objective:
To analyze the complete process of the fabric store and creating a standard operating procedure
for an effective process flow.

Existing process
Fabric Receiving Process
Fabric recieved Report Purchasing Department
Checking of P.O. If not as per requirement
If as per requirement
Checking Packing list,

Invoice and Lorry way
bill
Unloading fabric
Entry acc to PO ref no
GRN & Swatch card GRN sent to Accounts Department

prepration
Swatch sent to
merchandiser for
approval

Fabric Issuing Process:
Prod plannig Meeting
Inspection as per
discussion
Entry on stage
Report send to cutting CAD Department makes maker

dept.
Enrty on stage Cutting Department makes Indent
Recieving sample
intend, Lay report and
trolley as per daily
requirement
Entry of rolls issued into

Register
Fabric gate pass
Fabric issued
5.3.3 Observations and problems identified:

• Indent is not received at actual date.
• Zero communication with fabric store and cutting department.
• Fabric rolls are not issued according to the process which leads to missing of fabric rolls.
• Stage issue is done after the physical issue of fabric rolls.

• Taking longer time to issue fabric rolls.
5.3.4 Modified SOP:

Procedure for in warding fabric in store: -
• Fabric receipt from nominated supplier.
• Physical counting of rolls.
• Compare the quantity with purchase order or invoice.
• Any shortage/damaged packaging is informed to commercial department, purchase

department and merchandiser.
• Store keeper prepares and signs a goods received note or GRN in which name of the item,
actual quantity received is clearly mentioned and also, he mentions the identification mark
of the shortage i.e. Carton no., bale no. Etc. And gives a copy to commercial dept.
• To ensure each roll has got the supplier stamp at the head end.
• The code is referred as during further processes of fabric inspection, shade segregation,
warehouse keeping, issuing, and cutting.
• Fabric inspection: fabric inspection is done by 4-point system
• 4-point system of fabric inspection: no of roll selection – shell 100%, lining 10%,
pocketing 10%.
• Once the fabric inspection, shade segregation and lab testing are passed then the fabric is
kept in ware house as per buyer wise, colour wise and shade wise.
• Shade wise inventory is maintained in register as well as in computer system.
Inventory
• Make some preparation for inventory which you received materials.
• Go into inventory physically.
• Check materials with details packing list and take materials sample for colour swatch.
• Check the materials quality, colour, size, and qty.
• Keep the materials style or order basis.

• Write down style #, item, colour, size, quantity on the package.
• Keep requires quantity in the difference style/order if you receive a lot of materials.
• Fill up your style/order fabric status & accessories status in the input column by date.
• Check fabric roll by roll based on packing list & swatch.
• Check rolls width and length/yards randomly.
• Check the roll randomly if any.
Issue system of materials:
• Receive requisition from production dept. (sewing, cutting, packing, and sub-store, down
section, embroidery section, printing section).
• Check requisition with material list.
• Check actual consumption; confirm item, quantity, size, colour etc. Before issuing.
• Check the materials at the issuing time.
• Make delivery challan against requisition & actual issue quantity.
• Mention style#, item, size, colour, quantity etc. And also mention reason if any.
• Take receivers sign with confirmation of indicating items, size, colour, quantity etc. With
receiving.
• Take approval sign from authorized person of the company.
• Fill up fabric status & accessories status in the output column by date.
Balance materials
• Check each style balance materials from your file.
• Check similar style item balances qty. If you have any short, you can use from other style
balance.
• Make colour swatch of balance items.
• Check balance quantity with register.
• Make an inventory sheet for balance stock.

• Arrange to transfer to slow moving stock after season finish.
Storage of goods:
When you receive materials, you have to arrange space for checking/inventory. So, please note
below points.
• Arrange blank space.
• Arrange to keep full materials according to your invoice and packing list.
• Keep fabric and accessories separately.
• Keep the accessories separately against each order/style.
Keep the fabric separately item and colour wise.
• Keep common items buyer wise.
• If you receive materials mixed item, colour, size and quantity for different style and order.
Please keep style/order wise after checking.
• Do not keep with mixer any materials. We have to issue those materials according to
particular style and order
Over consumption/reject portion
Fabric:
• Received actual consumption from cutting section.
• Check actual consumption between material list and inform to merchandiser/ sales.
• Make a revised status of material based on actual consumption.
• Ensure quantity about stock when you are issuing any over consumption quantity to the
cutting section.
• Check your stock if you have any less consumption fabric.
• Check your stock if you have any excess fabric (received quantity).
• Consumption of each style should check very carefully.
• Inform to merchandiser/ sales team about over consumption item and qty.

Interlining/lining:
• Check consumption with material list and actual marker.
• Check item width & marker.
• Make and statement based on material list and actual (over or less consumption)
Accessories:
• Check requisition with material list.
• Check consumption between material list and actual consumption.
• Issue correct item, colour, size and quantity as per colour swatch.
• Issue materials against requisition.
• Write down your accessories status output column at the same time.
• Make delivery challan very carefully.
• Take prompt action against balance materials with merchandiser/sales.
Reject quality fabric:
• Ensure defective quality with quality department before use.
• Confirm with merchandiser/ sales department on time.
• Check yours in hand stocks or slow-moving stock.
• Arrange to replace defective quantity from your available in hand stock or another style.
• Arrange to replace from merchandiser/sales if necessary.
• Arrange to ship back defective quantity by discussing with merchandiser/sales.
Accessories:
• Ensure the rejected item with the quality dept.
• Confirm with merchandiser/sales dept.
• Arrange to issue from available stock or another style.
• Arrange to replace from merchandiser/sales dept.

• Arrange to ship back by discussing with merchandiser/sales dept.
Conversion of slow moving stock:
• Confirmed your leftover quantity between your register after season finish.
• Make packing list and colour swatch for leftover materials.
• Inform to merchandiser/sales leftover quantity with swatch for using next order.
Physical inventory:
• Prepare updated balance quantity of each item.
• Count your stock physically.
• Fill up inventory tag.
• Put the tag on the items rack & packages.
• Show your items to the physical inventory committee.
• Prepare a summary report against your inventory tag.
• Prepare value status of each item.
• Compare with your closing balance quantity and value.
• Make adjusted for each item opening balance.
• Prepare difference amount and qty.
Act to be done under materials controlling department:
• Confirm over consumption figure with production and sales team.
• Check your receiving quantity and stock quantity.
• You have to inform merchandiser/sales team all kind of material situations.
• You have to co-operation with production for feedback of materials.
• You have to contact with production for material consumption.
• You have to advise sub-store for materials receive, issue, and consumption.
• You have to monitor with sub-store for materials current, leftover etc.

• You have to advise to cutting for styles issue, fabric situation consumption etc.
• You have to hand over materials to the quality dept. For quality check and ensure your
materials quality.
• You have to contact with import dept. against your materials import situation and
documents.
5.3.5 Benefits:
• Communication between fabric store and cutting department is improved through daily
arrangement of a meeting.
• Fabric rolls are issued within two hours from indent received.
• Reduced missing of fabric rolls.
• Proper process flow is achieved in fabric store.
5.4 STRING DIAGRAM:

5.4.1 Objective:
To study and record the complete information about the movement of material and to scale a layout
of fabric store in order to minimize the material flow.
5.4.2 Previous material flow:

• Fabric rolls sent by the buyers are unloaded from the lorry and are kept in pallets.
• From the pallets, the rolls are shifted to racks allotted for uninspected goods in 2 to 5 days.
• The fabric rolls are then inspected for quality before issuing.
• The inspection reports are fed into the system and issued to cutting department.
• The inspected fabric rolls are kept in another rack which is allotted for inspected goods.
• When the indent is received, the respected fabric rolls are issued to the cutting department
in two to five hours.
4.4.3 Problems identified:

• Unloaded fabrics are stored in pallets for long time without shifting to the respected racks.

• The fabric rolls after inspection are placed in different racks which leads to confusion of
materials and increases the retrieval time.
• Uninspected goods racks are not placed close to the inspection machines.
4.4.4 Material flow after modification:

• Fabric rolls are unloaded and directly kept in allotted racks.
• The fabric rolls are then inspected for quality and kept back in the same rack.
• The width report is sent to the cutting department.
• When the indent is received according to the width report, the fabric rolls are issued to the
cutting department.
Figure 14-Previous material flow Figure 15-Modified material flow
5.4.5 Benefits:
• Easy to identify the economical routes to perform a particular operation.
• It helped in tracing the existing paths of movement.
• We reduced 150ft from the previous material flow.
6. SQDM:
S – Safety
Q – Quality
D – Delivery
M – Morale
6.1 Objective:
To maintain the daily record of store workers absenteeism and safety, meters of fabric issued
for each style and the quality of fabric rolls according to 4-point system.
6.2 Methodology:
• Analyze the number of workers, issuing of fabric rolls to cutting department, quality
parameters used in fabric store for inspection and the inventory of fabric rolls.
• Prepare a month wise format for daily record of SQDM.
• Set a target quantity of issuing material per day.
• Update the details on daily basis to know whether the target for each day can be
Achieved or not.
6.3 Safety:
• This data helps to know the safety of workers in the store.
• They are mentioned with three different colors.
o Green – safe day
o Yellow – mild injury (nearly miss)
o Red – serious injury
6.4 Quality:
Month Points (Average)
July 10.6
August 12.8
Table 23-monthly quality points report
They follow 4-point system for fabric inspection and the points should be less than 40 for
acceptance. If the point exceeds 40 then the fabric roll should be rejected.
6.5 Delivery:
Material Target (meters) Issued %
July August
Jacket 3000 24.3% 75%
Trouser 3000 24.3% 43.3%
Shirt 3000 20.5% 24%
Table 24-Monthly material issue report
The daily target of issuing fabric for each style is 3000m and this clearly shows the monthly % of
issue
6.6 Morale:
Month Absenteeism %
July 8.5%
August 3.9%
Table 25-Monthly absenteeism report
No. Of workers in fabric store: 15
Maximum absenteeism per day: 4
This shows that the absenteeism is manageable in the fabric store.
6.7 Benefits:
• It helped to record the present situation of the fabric store.
• From this data it clearly shows that fabric store process needs improvement.
7. PERFORMANCE MATRIX:
7.1 Objective:
To set targets for each operation to calculate performance and increase performance.
7.2 Methodology:
• In fabric store, there are majorly 7 operations i.e. (bale opening, inspection, swatch card,
shade card, shrinkage, width report and issue)

• To calculate how many fabric rolls are in warded in store, how much fabric is inspected
and issued. Swatch card, shade card, width report and shrinkage report made on daily basis.
• To track down these operation on daily basis a performance matrix board is developed.
• Performance matrix board is fixed in store having columns of operations and rows of date
mention on it.
• Each column will be having the information of operation & daily targets.
7.3 Performance matrix board:

Date/ Bale Inspection Swatch Shade Shrinkage Width Issue
target opening Meters card card (lots) report (meters)
(lots) (lots) (meters)
Targets - 10000(5 - - - 5182 5182
m/cs)
1-8-17
2-8-17 107 3122 12 13 1 1195 3000
3-8-17 34 3350 7 19 1 778 2200
4-8-17 40 2200 1 8 2 8010 800
5-8-17 1500 10 1361 2600
6-8-17
7-8-17 1800 7 1880 6000
8-8-17 2900 8 738 4500
9-8-17 3200 7 800 6850
10-8-17 3000 3 873 7653
11-8-17 3270 6 1000 3450
12-8-17 3100 4 4796 5030
13-8-17 2000 5 3940 3771
14-8-17 3300 5 3382 4600
15-8-17

16-8-17 3100 1 500 3700
Table 26-performance matrix report
Here, target of width report and issue includes (jacket, trouser, shirt, vest coat)
Figure 16-Performance matrix board
7.4 Benefits:
• Easily get the information on daily basis,
• We can track performance of each operation.
• It is useful for auditing purpose.

8. INCOMING MATERIAL TRACKING BOARD:

8.1 Objective:
To track and get the information of fabric shipment prior to delivery, for the convenience of fabric
store department.
8.2 Methodology:
• Closely observing the inward process of fabric and material receiving information flow.
• Analyzing and list out the various activities information that are crucial in receiving
shipment of fabric in store.
• Identifying the activities which usually get dely.
• For tracking the activities an incoming material tracking board is prepared and fixed in
store.
• Incoming material tracking board having columns of (information received date, buyer,
material name, transporter, lr.no, no. Of packages, exp. I/h date, po/packing list status) to
track.
S.No Info. Rcvd Buyer Material Transport Lr.no. No. of Exp Po

date name Packages I/h status
Date
Table 27-Incoming material tracking format
Figure 17-Incoming material tracking board

8.3 Benefits
• We can easily track information with it.
• We can have information of material, quantity of material, buyer, in-house date e.t.c
9. MOCK FOR THE RETRIEVAL TIME:

9.1 Objective:
To study the time taken for material retrieval.
9.2 Procedure:
• In the fabric store, from the stock report we randomly noted down the material code.
• We gathered the workers and started auditing.
• By giving the reference code, the operators are asked to retrieve the material as fast as
possible and recorded the time.
• Then we compared the existing time taken with the previous time taken for retrieval.
• We recorded that the previous time was more than 3 minutes.
Retrieval time of fabric store
Trial previous Existing

1 More than 5min (failed) 18sec
2 4min 15sec 1min 2sec
3 More than 5min (failed) 1min 6sec
4 5min More than 5min (failed)
5 4min 18sec 56sec
6 More than 5min (failed) 1min
Table 28-Retrival time of fabric store

RETRIEVAL TIME OF FABRIC STORE

500
TIME TAKEN IN
SECONDS
0
1 2 3 4 5 6
TRIALS
Previous Existing
Graph 1-Retrival time of fabric store
10. ADVANCED MATERIAL LOCATION DISPLAY

10.1 Objective:
• To display the exact location of material buyer wise, colour wise.
• To reduce the time required to retrieve material.
• To display material which is ready to be audited.
10.2 Working:
In fabric store, each rack is divided into 3 section ranging from A1-1, A1-2, A1-3 to I1-1, I1-2, I1-
3. Aboard has to be installed containing a grid of racks and sections. After stacking the material
(rolls) on allocated rack, the operator has to write the required details ( material code, reference
no. & colour, qty.) Of the stacked pieces on a square coin and pair it to the consecutive hook on
the board. For this, different buyers have been allocated different colours, for example (orange for
JCP, yellow HAGGER).

Figure 18-Fully updated material stacking &tracking board
10.3 Steps to update the board:

• Take the chip according to buyer colour code. For example, for JCP an operator will take
orange coin.
• He will write the required information on the coin (material code, reference no. & colour,
qty.)
• Put the coin at the allocated rack and section.
10.4 Retrieval:
Whenever a material (rolls) has to be retrieved, the operator retrieving the material has to see the
colour code and then search for the material code, reference no. On the same colored coins. As
soon as the operator finds the coin, she has to see the respective rack and section number and then
she can go to exact location and take out the roll.
10.5 Benefits:
• Enhanced visibility of stacking.
• Shows the exact location according to buyer, colour wise.

• Material can be easily retrieved without any difficulty.
• Retrieval time can be reduced to about average of 30 seconds for lower racks and 1 minute
30 seconds for upper racks (where ladder is required).
11. CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Project Title: Removing Non-Value-Added Activity and Procedure
11.1 OBJECTIVES:
• To minimize the idle time of operator and machine.
• To improve the productivity of the cutting.
• To minimize the fabric wastage.
• To improve the work flow of department.
• To standardize the process.
11.2 NEED OF PROJECT:

• Machine and operator are idle and waiting for material.
• Laying and cutting operator using excess fabric than the requirement.
• There is no standard operating procedure in the process.
• Wrong numbering is occurring in the line because of no proper check points.
• There is no proper storage place for cut components. so chance of component missing
is maximum.
11.3 SCOPE OF PROJECT:

• Improving cutter efficiency by improving lay scheduling.
• Reducing operator movement by minimizing unavailability of material.
• Standardize operating procedure.

• Setting benchmark for cutting in accordance with the capacity and feasibility of the
cutting department.
12.Literature review
Wastes
“Waste is anything other than the minimum amount of equipment, materials, parts, space,
and worker’s time which are absolutely essential to add value to the product.”
Waste occurs when more resources are consumed than are necessary to produce the goods
or provide a service that the customer actually wants.
The organization’s success is dependent on the integrated working of men, method, material
and machine at the worksite. Wastes are prevalent all over the organization, but as one lives
with it or works around it, it gets hidden.
Value is said to be added, when the product is physically changed towards what the customer
is intending to purchase. It is added, when a service is provided for which the customer is
willing to pay. Monden(1993) classifies activities in garment production into following three
types.
a) Non-value adding (NVA)
These are pure wastes and involve unnecessary actions which should be eliminated
completely as they are invisible to the customer. The customer is not willing to pay for them.
b) Necessary but non-value adding (NNVA)
These activities may be wasteful but are necessary under the current operating procedures,
hence, are called ‘incidental waste’. The customer does not find value in these activities and
does not want to pay for them but still these are required due to the process limitations,
current technology and government regulations.
c) Value adding (VA)
These activities transform the nature, shape or characteristics of an information or product

in line with the customer requirements. Customer values these activities, are willing to pay
for it and they will know, if this activity is removed.
In order to add the value to the product, value added activities are retained, non-value added
are eliminated and required non -value added are trimmed.
12.1 Lean seven wastes are:

1. Overproduction
It is referred to as the ‘just in case’ meaning producing more than the buyer’s
demand or production in anticipation, rather than the actual demand. It is regarded
as the most serious, worst and fundamental waste, as; it not only leads to other wastes
but also discourages a smooth flow of goods or services inhibiting quality and
productivity.
2. Excess inventory
It is called a mismatch between demand and supply. Waste of inventory requires

extra space for storage; time and effort; capital locked in purchased materials and
material used between processes; extensive rework; damaged, obsolete and unfit
inventory; larger material handling systems to move larger quantities of goods, and
increase in lead time for delivery.
3. Waiting
Queuing for anything is a waste. When the time is being used ineffectively and the
goods are not moving or being worked on, then the waste of waiting occurs. In an
apparel industry, waiting takes place in a number of forms as:-
• Operators waiting for material to arrive so they can work.
• Machines waiting for work, and also for operators to load and unload work pieces or other
production material.
• Waiting for information from a number of sources that is supervisor, scheduling

and designs. • Waiting for equipment to complete cycle as in computerized
machines.
• Waiting for inspection before performing next operation.
• Fabric waiting to be cut.

• Work in progress within cutting, sewing, finishing sections waiting to be processed

either due to capacity shortfall or non-receipt of trims and accessories.
4. Waste of excess motion
It involves the unnecessary movements in production where the operators have to

stretch, bend and pick up, and extra “busy” movements while waiting when these
actions could be avoided. Such waste is tiring for the employees and is likely to lead
to poor productivity and, often, to quality problems. Causes for this type of waste
are faulty equipment and plant layout, lack of 5 S’s, lack of visual controls,
inconsistent work methods, large batch sizes and so forth. Motion is a waste
associated with both operators and equipment as follows: -
• Operator’s wasted motion includes bending, walking to get or place parts, lifting,
and taking more than one step to reach or view machine interfaces.
• Equipment’s wasted motion includes long strokes, “air cut”, and other non-
productive movements of machine parts.
5. Excess transportation
This includes moving materials, parts, or finished goods between processes or into
or out of storage. It leads to double handling, deterioration in quality, delay in
communication between processes and poor-quality feedback reports further delays
corrective action
6. Rework
Product defects occur when the work pieces are reprocessed or repaired due to the
incapable processes, excessive variation, incapable suppliers, management
decisions, insufficient training, inadequate tools or equipment, poor layouts,
unnecessary handling and high inventory levels. In mass production, defects are
rarely visible as they get hidden below the inventory while in continuous flow, the
defects destroy the balance resulting even in a missed shipment. Consequences of
product defects are additional labour, extra floor space, tools, equipment, effort,
time, material, missed shipments or deliveries, lower profits and money to

disassemble and reassemble defective product. It becomes serious when the

defective garment reaches the customer and it results in extra warranty costs,
customer dissatisfaction and may also result in the loss of future business and market
share.
7. Inappropriate processing
It is termed as ‘using a sledgehammer to crack a nut’ (Ana, 2008). It means over

processing, incorrect processing and inefficient processing. Causes of this type of
waste are decision making at inappropriate levels, inefficient policies and procedure,
lack of customer input concerning requirements and use of expensive, large,
inflexible machine, high precision equipment instead of several, small, flexible,
simpler tools. The two aspects of inappropriate processing are:
• Overdoing in the sense of doing too much, too soon, and beyond what is necessary.
For example- reports and presentations with more information, products designed
with more features than the customer needs etc.
• Using inappropriate equipment, especially equipment that is much larger, faster,

or more complicated than required. For example- Trouser or Denim pocket facing
attach operation, which can be done by one machine cover stitch machine but is
planned with one over lock and one lockstitch. This adds cost to the garment without
adding the value. (Anon, 2017)
13. CREATION OF STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE

13.1. Primary data:
• There is no standard operating procedure
• Creation of standard operating procedure
13.2. Description of processes in spreading department

13.2.1. Receiving Plan bunch
Purpose: To get the details about the lay and cut plan of the particular order.

Procedure:
o The Spreading Section should receive the plan bunch from the CAD section before
the fabric is received and stored in the racks on the cutting floor.
o The plan bunch should contain mini marker, cut plan and cut stickers prepared by the
CAD section.
o The mini marker and other details for spreading of the contrast fabric (if any) should
be attached in the same plan bunch.
o The mini marker and cut stickers should be forwarded to the cutting area.
o The Plan Bunch should be analysed by the department head/ supervisor.
o In case of any doubt, the CAD Department should be contacted.
Figure 19-Lay report

Figure 20-Lay plan

Figure 21-Mini marker
Figure 22-Sticker
13.3. Laying fabric

Purpose: To lay the fabric according to the style and type of fabric as per the Lay
Plan.
Procedure: The information regarding the order of the fabric to be spread should
be determined from the worked order plan prepared by the planning department.
o First of all, the particular fabric rolls should be taken out of the rack and kept on the
table placed at the beginning of the spreading table (temporary storage).
o The number of rolls being kept on this table will depend upon the space capacity of
the table.
o There should be an optimum utilization of the table for temporary storage. If the
table is having enough space to keep all the fabric rolls of the particular lot being
cut then the same number of rolls should be kept on the table for temporary storage.

o This will reduce the unnecessary frequent movement of the operator for bringing
the rolls from the rack and will result in less fatigue, saving time.
o The Lay Plan for the particular lot should be kept for the reference.
o Now the spreading operator should place a perforated sheet on the spreading table
exactly equal to the lay length referring measuring tape.
Figure 23-weight being used while spreading
13.3.1 Manual spreading

➢ For Checks:
For the fabric with check patterns, the spreading should be done manually.
o For detaching the ply from the fabric roll, tearing method should be used rather than
blade.
o Tearing method should be used for checks so that the ply will be detached at the same
weft line at the end of the repeat size.
o The operator should cut the fabric at the end of repeat.
o Clamps and weights should be used while laying fabric to avoid misalignment.

o A Shade Sheet should be laid after each roll.

➢ For special fabrics:
o Some special fabrics, like linen, cannot be fed for automatic spreading. Because of
their fabric properties the fabric has to be cut on the same weft line. For those fabrics
the spreading should be done manually irrespective of the checks, stripes and solid
patterns to avoid any finishing error.
o Spreading of contrast fabric should be done after spreading the shell fabric. The
contrast fabric lay should be kept over the shell fabric lay with the mini marker and
other details.
o While laying the fabric following checkpoints should be followed by the spreading
operator
❖ Length and width: The length of the Lay Sheet should be equal to the marker
length as specified in the lay plan and the mini marker.
❖ The width of the fabric roll should also be checked against the width mentioned
in the mini marker. If any difference is found, the same should be communicated
to the CAD and fabric store sections.
❖ Face side: The spreading operator should check for the chalk mark on the fabric
roll which shows the right face side of the fabric. This chalk mark is put by the
fabric inspection team in the fabric store.
❖ No. of plies: After each roll is completed for spreading, the number of plies
should be counted and noted down in the spreading report. Once the whole lay
is spread, the total number of plies in the lay should be counted and checked
against the number mentioned in the lay plan to avoid any mistake regarding the
number of garments being cut in the lay.
❖ Way: If the particular fabric is napped fabric like corduroy, velvet etc., then the
fabric should be spread in the nap way as per the marker plan. The same point
should be in case of asymmetrical fabric for which one way marker (all garments
in one direction) is made.

❖ Alignment: The plies in a lay should be aligned properly at both of the ends and
also along the selvedge. Otherwise at the time of cutting some of the plies in the
lay can go out of the marker area and it will cause wastages.
❖ Colour Code: The colour code mentioned on the Bin Card with the fabric rolls
should match with the colour code mentioned in the plan bunch. In case of any
error the fabric store and CAD department should be contacted.
13.3.2 Preparing spreading report

Purpose: To maintain record of fabric spreading
Procedure:
o The spreading operator should fill the spreading detail in the lay report while
spreading a particular fabric.
o The report contains details regarding the fabric width, length of roll etc.
o Any details regarding shortage of fabric in the roll should be communicated with the
fabric store and CAD department.
Figure 24-Lay report

13.3.3. Moving lays to the cutting area

o After spreading is done, the lays should be moved to the cutting area depending on
the type of cutting required for the fabric.
o The air floatation should be on while moving the fabric lay to the cutting area.
13.4. Description of processes in cutting department

After the lay is moved to the cutting area, it should be processed for manual or CAM
cutting depending on the requirements.
13.4.1 Manual cutting (Using Plotter)

o If the repeat size of check fabric is big (approximately 2 centimeters or more) then
manual cutting should be done. - The plotter should be placed following the repeat
patterns. - The patterns should be first cut into blocks and ready parts as per the
marker plan using straight knife or band knife cutter.
o Plotter can also be used when the fabric consumption per garment is strict due to
buyer’s requirements. - Individual patterns from the plotter should be cut precisely
using scissors and placed on the lay, referring the centerline, in such a way that the
fabric consumption per garment gets minimum. This method of cutting should only
be done by an experienced operator/ supervisor.
o In some cases, where the thickness of a lay is considerably more than an inch and it
cannot be fed for CAM cutting, manual cutting should be done using the plotter.
o The operator should check for following items before manual cutting:
❖ Cut plan sheet
❖ Lay report
❖ Mini marker
o The operator should ensure that cutting of one part should not damage other part.
o After cutting block parts should be moved to the pinning area and the ready parts
should be sent for numbering and bundling.

Figure 25-manual cutting using band knife
13.4.2 CAM cutting:

Fabric lays sent for CAM cutting should involve following steps.
13.4.3. Marker planning and checking

Following checkpoints should be matched for marker checking before cutting is
done:
o Type of sleeves (HS, FS, LS), cuffs (French, Chisel) and small components
mentioned in the style code should be checked against the patterns in the mini marker
to avoid any discrepancy.
o Cut plan checking should be done whether components with 1 cm repeat is for block
cutting.
o Checking should be done for lining cutting- CAM or Die. If CAM cutting is required,
the marker for the same should be attached in the plan bunch.
o If contrast is required for style, then marker checking for contrast parts should be
done. If CAM cutting is required, the marker for the same should be attached in the
plan bunch.
o Marker checking should be done according to the requirement:
- One-way marker
- Centre solid marker
- 100% CSV marker
o Marker checking should be done according to the fabric requirements. For e.g., in
linen fabric the head of big parts should be inside the marker.
o Stickers should be checked with minimarker parts name according to style.
13.4.4. Cutting instruction sheet checking points:

1. Order details:
o Order no. against-
- Order no. in plan sheet
- Lay report
- Mini marker
- Sticker/ plotter
o Tech pack no. as mentioned in work order against-
- Tech pack no. in plan sheet
- Lay report
- Mini marker
- Sticker/ plotter
o Fabric code as mentioned in work order against-
- Fabric code as mentioned in plan sheet
- Lay report

- Width report
o Style details as mentioned in work order against-
- Style details as mentioned in tech pack
- Mini marker
- Sticker
o Fabric code as mentioned in work order against-
- Fabric swatch in lay report
- Fabric code as mentioned in cut plan sheet
- Fabric code as mentioned in Lay report
- Fabric code as mentioned in Width report
2. Minimarker details:
o Marker name in minimarker against marker name in lay report and sticker
o Pattern code in minimarker against tech pack or PO no.
o Fabric particulars- length and width in mini marker against fabric particularly in
width report
o Specification on stickers against minimarker
o Placement of patterns in minimarker
o Way of patterns in minimarker
o Direction of patterns in minimarker
o Buffer in minimarker
o Cross check 12 parameters report with mini marker, especially in CSV

13.5. Cutting:
o Using Gerber cutter: The fabric will be cut in CAM as per the marker plan fed into
the system. The operator should check the fabric width and length against
minimarker. The marker is fed into CAM by the CAD team.
Figure 26-Gurber cutter
o If the fabric is solid- ready marker is prepared and the parts are cut as such.
After cutting is done, the operator should keep the parts in table and take them
to the numbering and assortment section.
o If the fabric is check or stripes- marker with block cutting is prepared. The
block and ready parts are first segregated and are then moved to the pinning
and numbering and assortment section, accordingly.
o The operator should check for following items before CAM cutting:
➢ Marker/ Cut/Lay Number
➢ Lay report
➢ Mini marker
➢ Cut sticker

Segregation of parts into ready and block
o The cutting operator or helper should stick the cut stickers on the cut parts while the
CAM is cutting. For the parts being ready cut, stickers should be placed on top of the
Glaze paper while for the parts being block cut, the stickers should be stuck on top of
the fabric ply.
Figure 27-Putting cut sticker on cut panels
o The cutting helper should collect all parts from CAM table and put them on the table
kept opposite to the CAM machine for easier segregation.
o The cutting helper has to ensure that no mixing of the parts takes place while placing
the cut components.
o The small parts should be tied with the help of bands.
o When all parts for one style are kept on the table, it should be segregated accordingly
o Ready parts
- All parts should be segregated according to size.
- Same parts of same size should be tied together in a bundle form.

- The bundles of the ready parts should then be sent to the numbering and assortment
section.
- Parts like pocket, waistband in which fusing/ drilling/ embroidery has to done,
should be sent to the respective sections.
Figure 28-Same size parts tied together in a bundle
o Block parts
- All parts should be segregated according to section.
- Parts meant for pinning should be sent to the pinning section.
o The loading operator, after doing segregation of the cut parts, should move the parts
to pinning and slitting section according to the requirement.
13.6. Pinning
Purpose
To align the cut panels on the same repeat line to achieve the matching standards in
the final garment.
Procedure
o Based on the style requirement and matching standards, the operator, with the
guidance of cutting in-charge, should define the positions of the pin on the pin table.
o For the pinning process proper size of needle with the threading done should be
placed with its butt inside hole in the table and the pointy side should be facing up
vertically.

Figure 29-Needle inside pinning table
o For placing the needle, it should be inserted from the upside of the table facing the
threaded butt side towards the hole. In this way, the needle will get fixed properly.
o Before placing the cut part for pinning the operators should also deal with the bowing
and skewing effect in the big panels. For this purpose, the two operators should pull
the panel towards each other in opposite direction in a way to nullify the bowing and
skewing effect.
o After the pinning is done the needle placed for pinning purpose should be pulled
upside and the cut parts should be tied together at the pin point. The tying should be
done strongly so that the fabric parts do not move even slightly while processed for
block cutting. This would provide the stability to the fabric parts and those would be
cut as per the matching standards.
Figure 30-Thread to be tied after pinning

13.7Precise cutting of Block Parts

o After the pinning is done for the block cut parts, it should be passed for precise cutting
with band knives and straight knives.
Figure 31-Cutting of blocks with band knife cutter
o The cutting operator over here must use the hard pattern or the templates made for
this purpose.
o These templates or hard patterns should have clear notch marks and drill marks.
o The operator should place the patterns on the top of the pinned bundle following the
repeat style (usually at the end of the repeat pattern) and use the clamp to make the
bunch stable.
o The bunch should be cut following the edge of the templates or hard patterns.
o The notch marks should be given precisely and accurately throughout the bunch.
o When the precise cutting is done, the cut parts requiring drill marks should be sent
for drilling. Drill mark should be given accurately and should be visible.
o After the precise cutting is done and drill marks are given the cut parts should be
moved to the numbering and assortment section by the loading operator

13.8. Numbering and Assortment

Purpose:
o Monitor the progress of each specific garment and to ensure that the correct parts are
assembled together.
o Throughout the sewing process, it is essential that each garment be assembled from
parts that have been cut from the same ply of fabric.
o Tying the numbered parts in a bundle makes it easier to count the parts and keeping
record of.
Procedure:
Type of Sticker/ Seal to be used
o Before the cut panels are received for numbering, the supervisor/ team leader should
instruct the operators about the type of stickers/ ink (for stamp) to be used for the
particular lot of fabric.
o The team leader/ supervisor should maintain a ledger for this purpose. A fabric
swatch of the particular lot should be pasted inside it with the right type of sticker/
seal on it.
o Whether to do snickering or sealing, it would depend upon the type of fabric of the
particular lot.
o Sealing should be preferred as it is less time and cost consuming.
o If the fabric is of such a colour on which neither the black nor the silver colour is
visible, the sticker should be used for numbering purpose.
o The type of sticker gumming will also depend on the type of fabric. The supervisor
should decide the type of sticker gumming- low, medium or high, for the particular
type of fabric.
o The type of gum to be used should be decided wisely or else the hard gum can cause
gum bleeding resulting stain on the fabric and the weaker gum will cause the sticker
missing in the process of material handling. For deciding the right type of gum, the
cutting in-charge can perform a trial run on the waste fabric swatches.
o After the right type of sticker/ seal is decided, it should be recorded in the ledger
maintained for this purpose.
o The supervisor should place a swatch of size 1.5”x.1.5” and mention the type of
sticker/ seal to be used.
o The operator should refer this register while starting the numbering process to know
the right type of sticker/ seal to be used for numbering.
13.9 Numbering
➢ Sealing
o The operator performing the numbering operation should adjust the number in the
sealing equipment according to the size and style of the parts, referring to the
summary sheet.
o The first digit should be the code for the particular style, the next 2 digits should show
the size of the cut part, and the following digits should be the cut panel no. as
mentioned in the summary sheet.
o The position of the number should be referred from the standard mock display.
➢ Putting Stickers
o The operator performing the numbering operation should adjust the number in the
stickering equipment according to the size and style of the parts, referring to the
summary sheet.
o The first 2 digits should show the size of the cut part, and the following digits should
be the cut panel no. as mentioned in the summary sheet.
o The colour of sticker must be put carefully as per the standards and the same standards
should be maintained in the numbering and assortment section for guiding the
numbering operators.

o While selecting the particular type of sticker or seal, the operator must be careful.
He/she should refer to the ledger maintained by the cutting In-charge to know the
right type of sticker or seal to be used.
o The position of snickering and sealing should be uniform and standard. This is to
avoid any visible mark of numbering (sticker gum or seal mark) in the finished
garment and also for easier and convenient visibility of the numbers on the cut parts.
o The position of the number should be referred from the standard mock display.
o While doing numbering care must be taken about the side of the fabric. On some parts
numbering has to be done on the face side whether on other parts it should be done
on the back side.
Figure 32-Stickering
Figure 33-Numbering mock standard

13.10. FUSING
Procedure:
o The machine temperature should be set according to the standard and based on the
type of fabric to be fuse
o The operator should check the size of components and pick the appropriate size fuse
from the rack.
o By referring the standard mock the fuse parts to be placed accordingly.
o After placing the fuse, it will pass to fusing machine.
o Then the picking operator should collect the fuse parts and arrange the parts according
to the size.
Figure 34-picking and arranging of fusing parts
o The fuse parts should be neatly arranged according to allotment of racks
Figure 35-Placement of fuse on racks Figure 36-Standard fusing mock

14.VISUAL DISPLAY
AIM:
To hang the name board on the floor
PROBLEM IDENTIFIED DURING OBSERVATION:
• There is no proper name board on the floor
• Due to that confusion is occurring
SOLUTION:
Hanging name board on the floor
Figure 37-Before hanging of name board Figure 38-After hanging of name bard
15. LAY SCHEDULE

AIM:
To make plan for spreading according to the requirement.
Problem identified during observation:
• There is no proper planning for spreading
• There is no allotment of table based on line

• There is no tracking sheet for spreading
Solution:
• Implementation of lay schedule
• Procedure:
➢ The line supervisors have to schedule the spreading according to the requirement.
➢ The schedule should be planned every evening for next day
➢ Every morning the respective person has to give schedule to spreading operator
➢ The spreading operator has to follow the schedule and fill the data
➢ The supervisor has to cross check the sheet for planning next day schedule
Figure 39-Lay schedule sheet

Benefits:
• Proper planning of spreading
• Eliminate the unwanted movement and confusion what to be next
• Helps in tracking the operation as well as order
• Waiting time can be identified
• In case of any problem in current style supervisor can plan another style priorly.
Limitation:
• Improper order planning will affect the lay schedule
16. REDUCTION OF FABRIC WASTAGE IN SPREADING

AIM:
To reduce fabric wastage in spreading
• Difference in actual lay length and planned lay length
• The average extra length given in each ply is equal to 5-6cm.
• Thus lead to the wastage of the fabric and fabric shortages.

Figure 40-Uneven plies
Figure 41-Differencein actual and planned lay length

SECONDARY DATA COLLECTED:
• Lay Sheet
Figure 42-Lay sheet
PRIMARY DATA:
Root cause analysis

MACHINE
MAN
Uneven marking
carelessness wrong measurement marking

on table
FABRIC
WASTAGE IN
SPREADING
Bowing and skewing extra allowance given other
than marker length
MATERIAL METHOD
Figure 43-fish bone diagram of fabric wastage in spreading

FABRIC WASTAGE
4.5
4
3.5
Fabric in mtr
3
2.5
2
1.5
1
0.5
0
1 2 3 4 5 6
EXCESS 0.04 0.05 0.05 0.033 0.05 0.07
PLANNED 4.21 4.21 4.21 4.21 3.04 1.14
Graph 2-Fabric waste per ply during spreading
SOLUTION:
Implementation of measuring tape on table
Figure 44-Measurement tape on table

BENEFITS:
• Unwanted fabric wastage is reduced
• Time for measuring lay length is reduced
COMPARISION CHART
6
4
In cms
3
FABRIC WASTE
2
0
BEFORE AFTER
Graph 3-percentage reduction of wastage
From the above graph after implementation 81.2% of fabric wastage is reduced in
spreading.
CALCULATION:
Type of fabric: shell
Cost per meter: Minimum cost-215
Maximum cost-1008
Average cost-611
Eg. Ply:50 waste/ply:4.8
50*4.8=2.40m
Money waste per lay = Rs 1466

Money waste per day = Rs 58,656
17. REDUCTION OF UNWANTED MOVEMENT DURING FUSING

AIM:
To reduce the unwanted movement occurring due to searching of fuse for fusing process
• Mix of different sizes and parts of fuse together in rack
• Every time operators are searching fuse parts according to shell fabric so their is
unwanted movement and wastage of time is occurring
• Because there is no standard space allocation for fuse according to parts and sizes
Graph 4-No proper arrangement and naming of fuse in the rack

Primary data:
• Time study for searching:
Before Time Study

2.5
2
Time in minutes
1.5
BEFORE
1
0.5
0
1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25
Graph 5-Fuse parts searching time graph
Solution:
• Allocation of storage place for different fuse parts like body fuse, lapel.
• Proper naming of racks according to different parts.
• Procedure:
➢ Based on the style the supervisor has to segregate the sizes and write on the rack.
➢ Writing of sizes should be done by pencil because of change in styles
➢ If any changes in the style occur supervisor is responsible to erase and re-allocate the
parts and sizes in the rack.
➢ Then supervisor have to instruct the operator about the allocation and maintain the
same.

Figure 45-Allocation of fuse with naming
Benefits:
• Unwanted movement for searching fuse parts is eliminated.
• Time wastage during searching is eliminated.
• Because of time reduction in searching more outcome is possible.
Comparison of before and after implementation
TIME(Minutes)
0.8
0.7
0.6
0.5
0.4
TIME
0.3
0.2
0.1
0
BEFORE AFTER
Graph 6-Time difference graph after implementation of solution

Saving time/bundle=before avg. time - after avg. Time
=0.67-0.16
=0.51min
Reduced time %= (Saving time/Before avg. time)*100
=76%
Limitation:
Respective supervisor have to allocate and rewrite the size according to style.
18. IMPROVING PRODUCTION OF FUSING

AIM:.
To increase the production of fusing by implementing new method.
Productivity of fusing process is less
PRIMARY DATA:
Time study for fusing process before
Time Study
35
30
25
TIME IN Sec
20
15
10
5
0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
IN Pcs
Graph 7-time taken for fusing

SOLUTION:
• Change in method of fusing process i.e, implementation of pair fusing
• Before implementation they were fusing single piece at a time but after
implementation of pair fusing in certain components they are fusing two pieces at a
time.
Figure 46-Pair fusing
Time study after implementation
After Time Study

35
30
25
Time in Sec
20
15
10
5
0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
Pcs in pair
Graph 8-Time study after implementation
BENEFITS:
• Increase the production of fusing process

• Missing of pair components can be avoided
• Fuse marks can be avoided
CALCULATION:
BEFORE
PRODUCTION PER HOUR=3600/24.78
=145PCS
AFTER
PRODUCTION PER HOUR=3600/14.65
=245PCS
Comparison of before and after implementation
Production per hour

300
250
245 PCS
200
150
145PCS
100
50
0
BEFORE AFTER
Graph 9-Difference in production after implimentation
19. REDUCING UNWANTED DELAY IN ISSUE

AIM:
To collect data of hourly production and issuing to track the deviation against target.

• There is no hourly production tracking board.
• Missing of component in-between of different operation.
• Delay in issue.
• Certain components for particular garment were not issued together
• They are issuing different serial number components for different serial garment.
• There is no feed tracing report.
PRIMARY DATA:
FISH BONE DIAGRAM
Solution:
12. Implementation of hourly tracking board and tracking sheet for each operation.
• Procedure:
➢ Each operation operator should fill the production data of each hour with serial
number.
➢ Every hour the feeding helper have to collect production data from the tracking sheet
and to fill on the tracking board.
➢ At the end of the day feeding helper have to calculate the total quantity produced in
each line.
➢ Repeat this same process every day.
Figure 47-Hourly production tracking board

Figure 48-Tracking sheet for numbering
Benefits:
• Everybody of the floor can see production status and line performance.
• It also helps cutting department in charge to monitor line supervisor.
• Through individual operation tracking sheet production per hour will be identified.
• Identification of missing component will be easy.
• The board will act as an alert about the production to the respective person.
• The problem can be identified priorly and solution can be planned to achieve the daily
target.

Limitation:
• Operators are feeling difficult to fill the hourly tracking sheet.
• Feeding helper required to fill the tracking board.
20. IMPLEMENTATION OF FEED TRACKING SHEET

Procedure:
➢ The issuing operator have to fill the data which is going to be issue
➢ Then both feeding and receiving person cross check the feed data and have to sign.
➢ Repeat this same process every feed.
Figure 49-Feed tracking sheet
Benefits:
• Avoid miss communication between departments
• Missing bundle can be tracked
• Deviation can be identified easily

• Due to signature, the respective person will be more responsible
• Tracking of respective person in case of any problem will be easy
21. STRING DIAGRAM:

AIM:
To reduce unwanted material movement and to make the flow.
• Material movement is not in straight flow
• Unwanted material movement
• Chances of mixing and missing of components of different lines
PRIMARY DATA:
String diagram of existing flow
• There is no proper line allocation for process
• Because of that there is unwanted movement in material flow

Figure 50-Existing string diagram
SOLUTION:
Changing the flow of material according to the line

Figure 51-Proposed string diagram
Benefits:
• Reduction in unwanted material movement
• Movement time can be saved
• Material movement will be based on line
• Mixing and missing of components can be reduced
Calculation:
Example: line 1
Before
Movement of shell fabric from laying to loading rack: 195 Feet
After
Movement of shell fabric from laying to loading rack: 151.5 Feet
Reduced movement = before-after
=195-151.5 =43.5 Feet

22.LAYOUT
AIM:
To change the layout for better movement and space utilization
Primary data:
Figure 52-Existing layout

Figure 53-Proposed layout

Benefits:
• Straight flow of material movement
Available of more space than before layout
23. JACKET DEPARTMENT

23.1. Project title: Process improvement and efficiency of jacket floor and work on layout of
trouser floor
23.2 Objective of the project

23.3 Need of Project
NO DEDICATED PROCESS
FOR ADDITIONAL
UNNECESSARY EMPTY
NO DEFINED SPACE FOR
SPACE BETWEEN THE M/C
SOME OPERATIONS
IN THE LINE
UNNECESSARY MATERIAL NEED OF THE

MAINTAINING RESOURCES
MOVEMENT IN THE LINE PROJECT

23.4 Project outcome
INCREASED
EFFICIENCY
REDUCED
WIP
PROJECT
OUTCOME
REDUCED
IDLE TIME
OF
OPERATOR
AND
MACHINES
WORKFLOW
OF
DEPARTMEN
T

25. Operation Breakdown

25.1 Objective:
To know the proper flow of operations in different styles on jacket floor for changing layout.
Observation:
Process Flow
Loading of cut parts from cutting to sewing floor
Preparatory process
Pairing and loading
Front and back section
Assembly 1
Assembly 2
Finishing
Packing

So, I have categorized a Jacket into two categories based on the criticality of their styles.
CATEGORIZATION OF STYLE
BASIC SEMI CRITICAL
SOLID CHECKS
WELT POCKET PICK STITCH

FLAP, BREAST
FRONT
POCKET
FLOATING
CANVAS
FULL LINING
SNGLE VENT/SIDE
VENT
STRAIGHT WING FACINGS

FACINGS
LINING FULL LINING PIPING
SADDLE STITCH
NORMAL CUFF SHAM HOLE

SLEEVE
HEAD ROLL
PREPARATION
Table 29 Categories of style
25.2Problem identify
• Production capacity is not balanced with order quantity.
• Poor operator utilization. And space
• No proper use of machines.
• Machines are set out of the lines

25.3Primary Data collection

1.Study The line &Work Station Layout
LINE-1
• The line consists of 7 sections namely: front back, sleeve, collar,lining,and assembly1
&assembly 2 &finishing.
• Frequently style change: due to which there are lots of unnecessary movement of machine
as well as material in the line.
• There is extra movement of parts within the line from certain operation to another
operation.
• Unused spaces are there in the line.
• Total floor area of parts section=154x29ft.
• Total floor area of Assembly Section=150X22=3300 sq. ft.
• Total floor area of finishing section=7X150=1050 sq. ft.
• Between assembly section &finishing section there is an space of 6ft.
• 12ft space is also available near the front and back section.
Current area = 154x52=8008 sq. ft.
As mentioned earlier, the categorization of jacket has been in two categories, i.e. basic, semi
critical.
So, different number of machines is used each time when the style changes in the parts section of
the line. Assembly section is more or less the same for every style.
25.4 BASIC STYLE

Basic Style Operation &Machine Requirement
SECTION SL. OPERATION MACHINE TYPE OF

NO REQUIRED MACHINE
1 Sewing
Chain lock on felt chain lock m/c
2 zig- zag stitch on collar zig zag m/c Sewing

3 neck band attach on collar Sewing

COLLAR band Snls
SECTION 4 nurin tape attach on collar Fit pressing
5 collar attach Snls Sewing
6 Chain lock on felt chain lock m/c Sewing
7 zig- zag stitch on collar zig zag m/c Sewing
1 Elbow attach SNLS Sewing

2 cuff fold SNLS Sewing
3 cuff pressing FIT Pressing
4 elbow seam lining SNLS Sewing
5 BUCK Pressing
elbow seam pressing PRESS
SLEEVE 6 lining attach to the Sewing
SECTION shell SNLS
7 BUTTON Sewing
button sew M/C
8 BUTTON Sewing
button sew M/C
9 sleeve head attach (felt Sewing
attach to collar) SNLS
10 sleeve head attach (felt Sewing
attach to collar ) SNLS
11 sleeve head attach SNLS Sewing
12 inseam close (shell) SNLS Sewing

1 Marking front & back manual

2 Marking dart,pick
point manual
FRONT & 3 dart sew SNLS Sewing
BACK 4 dart iron FIT
5 side panel attach SNLS Sewing
6 side panel pressing &
attaching fusing FIT
7 centre back join SNLS Sewing
8 armhole tape SNCS Sewing
9 chest welt press FIT Pressing
10 chest welt attach SNLS Sewing
11 breast pocket cut Pressing
&press FIT
12 pocket zig-zag ZIG-ZAG M/C Sewing
13 flap & sweat shield AUTO ZIG - Sewing
marking ZAG
14 welt pressing FIT Sewing Pressing
15 AUTO Sewing
front pocket welting WELTING
16 front pocket welting manual
17 welt pressing front &
back FIT
18 pocket bag tacking SNLS Sewing
19 pocket bag attach SNLS Sewing
20 pocket bag tacking SNLS Sewing
21 pocket bag close SNLS Sewing
22 body pressing FIT Pressing

23 canvas &shell neck Sewing

tacking SNLS
24 side seam attach SNLS Sewing
25 side seam pressing FIT Pressing
26 bottom press FIT Pressing
27 shoulder seam SNLS Sewing
28 PRESSING Pressing
shoulder iron M/C
29 shoulder pad pressing BUCK PRESS Pressing
1 PRESSING Pressing
piping attach to lapel M/C
2 piping attach to lapel FIT Pressing
3 iron of lapel SNLS SWEING
4 saddle stitch SNLS SWEING
5 lining side seam back SNLS SWEING
6 lining side seam back SNLS SWEING
LINING 7 collar attach SNLS SWEING
SECTION 8 shoulder attach SNLS SWEING
9 neck close SNLS SWEING
10 iron of lapel FIT Pressing
11 iron of pocket and Pressing
collar FIT
12 BLIND HEM SWEING
bridal tape M/C
1 zig zag attach canvas zig zag m/c

2 setting canvas manual
3 zig zag on canvas zig zag m/c
4 tape attach snls
5 chest canvas press on

front fit
SMALL 6 blind hem on canvas blind hem
PARTS 7 facing attach on
SECTION pocket snls
8 pressing back lining pressing m/c
Table 30- basic style operations and machine requirements
25.5 semi critical

SEMI CRITICAL STYLE OPERATION & MACHINE REQUIREMENT
SECTIONS SL.NO. OPERATION MACHINE TYPES OF MACHINE
REQUIRED
1 Chain lock on chain lock Sewing
felt m/c
2 zig- zag stitch Sewing
on collar zig zag m/c
COLLAR 3 neck band Sewing
SECTION attach on collar
band snls
4 nurin tape pressing
attach on collar fit
5 collar attach snls Sewing
6 Chain lock on chain lock Sewing
felt m/c
7 Turn &press pressing
collar fit
1 Elbow attach SNLS Sewing

2 cuff fold SNLS Sewing
3 cuff pressing FIT Pressing

4 elbow seam Sewing

lining SNLS
5 elbow seam BUCK Pressing
pressing PRESS
6 lining attach Sewing
to the shell SNLS
7 BUTTON Sewing
button sew M/C
SLEEVE 8 BUTTON Sewing
SECTION button sew M/C
9 sleeve head Sewing
attach (felt
attach to
collar) SNLS
attach (felt
attach to
collar ) SNLS
attach SNLS
12 inseam close Sewing
(shell) SNLS
13 Inseam press Buck press Pressing
14 Tack inseam SNLS Sewing
15 Sleeve press Fit Pressing
Marking
front & back manual

Front & 1
back
2 marking
dart,pick
point manual
3 dart sew SNLS Sewing
4 dart iron FIT
5 side panel Sewing
attach SNLS
6 side panel
pressing &
attaching
fusing FIT
7 centre back Sewing
join SNLS
8 armhole tape SNCS Sewing
9 chest welt Pressing
press FIT
10 chest welt Sewing
attach SNLS
11 breast pocket Pressing
cut &press FIT
12 pocket zig- ZIG-ZAG Sewing
zag M/C
13 flap & sweat Sewing
shield AUTO ZIG -
marking ZAG
14 welt pressing FIT Sewing Pressing

15 front pocket AUTO Sewing

welting WELTING
16 front pocket
welting manual
17 welt pressing
front & back FIT
18 pocket bag Sewing
tacking SNLS
attach SNLS
tacking SNLS
close SNLS
22 body Pressing
pressing FIT
23 canvas Sewing
&shell neck
tacking SNLS
24 side seam Sewing
attach SNLS
25 side seam Pressing
pressing FIT
26 bottom press FIT Pressing
27 Flap Table
matching Manual
28 Carbon Manual Table
marking
29 Breast pocket Manual Table
pinning

1 zig zag
attach
canvas zig zag m/c
2 setting
canvas manual
3 zig zag on
canvas zig zag m/c
SMALL 4 tape attach snls
PARTS 5 chest canvas
SECTION press on
front fit
6 blind hem
on canvas blind hem
7 facing
attach on
pocket snls
8 pressing pressing
back lining m/c
Table 31- Semi critical operations and machine requirements
25.5 Machine dimensions

Machine type Dimensions
Auto welt 7X8

Bartack 4X4
basting 4X4
Blind hem 4X4
Bottom press 8X6
Buck press 6X5
Button attach 4X4

Button hole 4X4

Dnls 4X4
Fit 6X5
Pick stitch 5X5
Saddle stitch 4X4
SNCS 4X4
SNEC 4X4
SNLS DIFFERENTIAL FEED 4X4
SNLS DROP FEED 4X4
SNLS NEEDLE FEED 4X4
SNLS PULLAR FEED 4X4
ZIG-ZAG 4X4
AUTO ZIG 4X5
FLAP PRESS 5X5
SHOULDER PAD ATTACH 9X6
Table 32machine dimensions
25.6 Exiting layout of line -1

A existing has no proper machines set in line 1 and many machines are put idle in line 1 they are
not use properly.
Sewing = 85
Pressing = 36
Welting Machine = 2
Total =123
Area occupied = 165 x 64 =10560 sq. ft.
25.6.1 Problems
• No proper space for operatiors.
• Ergonomically problems for operators
• Asymmetrical arrangements of machines.

• Idle machines in line.
Figure 54 Existing Layout of jacket line 1
25.7 Proposed layout of line -1

A proposed layout needs to be changed every time when a style is changed in that line. So , on the
basis of categorization of jacket layout have been planned for jacket line 1.
This is suggested layout for jacket line 1.
No. of machines in line 1
Sewing = 79
Pressing = 31
Welting Machine = 2
Total = 112
Area required =154x54 =8008 sq ft.

BENEFITS:
1. Smooth flow of material
2. Better space & operator utilization
3. Reduced waiting time of operator in next operation
4. Reduced WIP level
Figure 55 implemented layout jacket line 1
26. String Diagram

26.1 AIM:
To reduce unwanted material movement and to make the flow.
26.2Problem identified during observation:

• Material movement is not in straight flow
• Unwanted material movement
• Chances of mixing and missing of components of different lines
• Lagging of pieces.

26.3 Primary data:

String diagram of existing flow
• There is no proper line allocation for process
• Because of that there is unwanted movement in material flow.
• Pieces miss in the line.
Figure 56 Existing string diagram board
Figure 57 Implemented string Diagram board

26.4 Solution
In proposed one we clubbing the tagging area to the finishing area because in whole line this is the
longest movement material.
Benefits of clubbing tagging with finishing line
1. One operator will be reduced as man movement will be there for transportation of jacket
from finishing to tagging department.
2. Transportation=102ft
3. Space Saving = when we club finishing line to tagging there will be a space saving of 14
ft .
Machines which are not in use in line they are placed in different area by this we make
space for canvas area to adjust in front section.
Figure 58 Machines not in use area
27. PITCH TIME

27.1 AIM:
To increase the production of the floor by less utilization of operator and machineries.
1. Problems:
• Over processing of work.
• Multiskilled operators waste their time in non-value process.
• Over processing of machineries.
• Waste of money, energy
• Not easily identified between skill and semi-skilled and non-skilled operators.

27.2 Time study

Time study is a direct and continuous observation of a task, using a timekeeping device to record
the time taken to accomplish a task and it is often used when:
• There are repetitive work cycles of short to long duration.

• Wide variety of dissimilar work is performed.
• Process control elements constitute a part of the cycle.
The main objectives of time study are the followings:

• Target time for each job can be scientifically estimated. With this estimate realistic
schedules and manpower requirements can be prepared.
• Sound comparison of alternative methods is possible by comparing their basic
times.
• Useful wage incentive schemes can be formulated on the basis of target times.
• In case lead to proper balancing of the work distribution.
• It can help to analyses the activities for performing a job with the view to eliminate
or reduce unnecessary or repetitive operations so that human effort can be
minimized.
• To standardized the efficient method of performing operations.
• To standardize conditions for efficient performance
• To determine man and machine ratio for effective utilization of both.
We have taken time study of the operations with 10 readings of all sections:
• Time study format
27.3 Skill Inventory of operators
Skill Inventory is a tool which is given proper information about the skilled and semi-skilled
and unskilled operators.
Main objective of skill inventory:
• To merge the operation to reduced time taking process.
• To improve production of line.
• To standardize the flow
• Effective utilization of operators.

We have calculated skill inventory according to the operator performance and according to that
we allotted the work to operators.
• Skill inventory format
27.4 Result
By calculating the pitch time, we merge the operation and operator in
• Sleeve section =1 operator saved.
• Lining Section = 2 operators saved.
• Assembly section = 4 operators can help another operator, 3 operators saved
• Finishing Section = 2 operators saved
According to this we can saved maximum 5 to 7 operators in Jacket line1and 4 operators are those
who have extra time and they can help those operators who have higher pitch time.
According to this –
1operator salary = 8,000 to 10,000 rupees/month.
7operators = 10,000 * 7= 70,000 rupees
4operators = 40,000 rupees
According to this we also make less use of machines and energy to save money and by this :
In one year = 8,40,000 rupees we can save.
PITCH TIME FORMAT
28 REDUCE REWORK
28.1 Need of the project
According to the daily alteration report from 15 July to 30 July ,925 jackets were found as defected
out of 3190 jackets produced, which is approx. 30% of total production.
High nos. of alteration is the main reason which decreases the productivity of the line because
correction of defects takes much more time than the SAM (standard average minutes) of operation.
For e.g. Sleeve inseam tacking has 22sec SAM value but as a defect it takes approx. 10 minutes to
get altered.
Alteration consumes now value-added time which is directly related to the decreasing productivity.
for decreasing non- value-added time consumed, alterations should be reduced. for reducing
alteration checking of work done by the operators is necessary.

28.2 reasons behind the rework

According to the current working scenario, operators do not check their work. They just do the
operations and pass it to the next operators.
Ignorance of wrongly done operations causes quality defects, which is resulted as defected product
at endpoint inspection and henceforth need alteration.
Operators are not aware enough about the quality. They must involve in the practice which ensure
the quality of the products made by them.
28.3 Steps towards solution

To introduce self-checking of work done by the operators and to ensure that operators must check
the work done by the previous operator, whether it is defect free or not. If there is defect found
during checking, operator will send it back to the previous operator and start the work once the
defect is corrected and then self –checked.
Self-checking and prevision us work checking stop defects from progressing .it will certainly
ensure the quality of the garments manufactured and spread awareness among operators that
quality is more important than quality produced by them. after all company can’t afford to waste
their resources on rework.
Self-checking will take some amount of time but this time will be considered as value added time
because it ensures the quality of garment of garment and prevents the alteration or rework.
By self –checking, alterations could be reduced by 30 to 10 alterations per 100 jackets produced.
28.4 implementation of self-checking in sleeve section

As a part of solution, it was decided to implement self –checking section wise .it will be easy to
replicate once the project is successful in one section. Sleeve section was chosen to implement
self-checking.
Initially, the main task was to find the actual no. of alteration generated by the sleeve section
because the daily alteration report made at end line inspection point was not accurate at all.
Following are the data recorded after the regular observation of alteration generated by sleeve
section.

Date No. of alteration Total production DHU Style

12 July 17 23 250 9.20 Hagger
13 July 17 19 230 8.26 Hagger
14 July 17 22 200 11.00 Raymond
15 July 17 28 200 14.00 Raymond
16 July 17
17 July 17 11 330 3.33 Raymond
18 July 17 17 300 5.67 Park avenue
Table 33 Data record table alteration by sleeve section
On the basis of these data, DHU graph was made to analyses the clear situation of alteration
generated per day along with the styles of jacket made.
DHU GRAPH
Graph 10 DHU Graph

Once it was analyzed that high no. of alteration is being generated on regular basis. Now ,the next
step was to decide the checkpoint where operations to be checked.
Self-checking cannot be implemented at all workstations because at some point of operations you
cannot check your work for defects unless further operations are performed. For eg. While sleeve
shell inseam closing ,the operations is performed from wrong side of the panel .so, it is not possible
to check the seam for pleat ,puckering and miss stitch completely.to check the sleeve inseam for
defects, you must press open the inseam and turn inside out .only then the defects can be identified,
which is not possible in line because next operation is to be done from wrong side only and it is
not possible to turn the sleeve inside out at every workstation as it takes too much time ,which
increases the SAM of operation.
The main challenge was to implement self –checking without affecting the SAM drastically
because it is not feasible to implement self –checking by affecting the production of line.
Follow up check list for team leader
Self-checking checklist
Jacket line 1
Month …………………..
Date ……………………….
DAY 1ST HR 2ND HR 3RD HR 4RD 5TH HR 6TH HR 7TH HR 8TH HR

HR
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9

10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
Table 34 self-checking checklist
28.5 Five defects weekly report

Sr. Defects Reason Correction action plan

1 Stitch visible 1. Due to uneven 1. Follow the proper

margin margin while attaching
2. Due to not doing stitch throughout the
proper joining of armhole join both
stitches. initial and ending stitch
properly.
2 Yarn pulling /damage 1. Basting needle 1. Needle size should be
point thick changed from 90-80.
2. Basting thread 2. Check and set the
tension more thread tension to a
adequate amount.
3 Sleeve inseam tacking 1. Catching very small 1. Do tacking in centre of
missed /open margin for the seam allowance.
tacking.
4 Collar zig-zag open 1. Collar basting stitch 1. Basting stitch to be
catch in collar zig-zag done 1cm above the
operation. collar zig-zag area.
2. While doing rework, 2. By doing this, it will not
there is joint in collar cut the stitch while
zig-zag which is not opening the basting
locked properly. stitch.
3. If any alteration, need
to open complete zig-
zag stitch and do it in
one shot. (no joint stitch
allowed.)
5 Sleeve head roll fold. 1. Due to uneven 1. Follow the proper
margin margin while attaching
2. Operator the sleeve head roll.
mishandling. Operator should do self-
checking after

completing the
operation.
Table 35 five defects weekly reports
28.6 Jacket final

SR. DEFECTS REASONS CORRECTION ACTION PLAN
1 Yarn pulling /damage. QC mistake in checking End line QC re-education and shown
2 Lining up-down and skipped from end the defects piece to aware with the all
line check point. these problems and need to control at
3 Sleeve head roll fold
end line check point only.
4 Sleeve lining loose /tight
Figure 59 jacket final defects
Figure 60 top five defects
TOP FIVE DEFECTS

• Armhole open
• Front edge shape out
• Pick stitch
• Weaving /Damage

• Untrimmed Threads
28.6 Benefits
• Reduced time waste in sewing section >> Bottlenecks
• Visibility
• Shorter lead time.
• Balanced inventory
• Improving material availability
• Standardized system
• Proper work flow
29 VISUAL DISPLAY
29.1aim:
To hang the name board on the floor and naming the machines and naming the racks.
29.2 Problem Identified During Observation:

• There is no proper name board on the floor in respective row.
• Due to that confusion is occurring
• Operators generally don’t know the operation they do.
• Racks are not place in proper way.
29.3 Solution:
• Hanging name board on the floor
• Naming the machines name and operation name with capacity of operator per hour.
• Naming on Racks

HANGING NAME BOARD ON RESPECTIVE ROWS:
Figure 61 Before
Figure 62 After

Figure 63 After
NAMING ON RACKS
Figure 64-Before Figure 65-After

30 TROUSER DEPARTMENTS
30.1 Primary Data collection
30.1.1Study the line &Work Station Layout
LINE-1
Number of trouser lines 2
Production system Overhead conveyor
Total number of operators 200
Capacity of the floor 1200
Target of the floor 1000
Production 300
Efficiency 50%
Table 36 details of trouser floor
30.2 Implementation of new layout

30.2.1 Objective:
To develop and implement a new trouser line layout in order to reduce the increased material
movement

30.2.2Process flow:
Loading of cut parts from cutting to sewing floor
Preparatory process
Pairing and loading
Front and back section
Assembly 1
Assembly 2
Finishing
Packing
30.3 Problems identified

• More material movement inside the sewing line.
• Machineries are arranged in a way that causes more material movement that affects the
production.
• Some machinery is arranged outside the line.
• Idle machines occupy more space inside the line.
• Sewing and finishing process are done in the same place and the packing is done separately
which consumes more time and increase the material movement.
30.4 Methodology
• Develop a process flow for the trouser line 1.
• Develop an operation breakdown for the trouser line.

• Identify the number and types of machineries required for the trouser style.
• Develop a new layout for the trouser line which consists of all the machineries and the
packing area inside the line.
• Implementation of new layout.
Figure 66 implementation of new layout

Figure 67 Exiting Layout
31.5 Operation breakdown for the trouser line 1:

S.NO OPERATION M/C USED
PREPERATORY
1 Back pocket facing attach Snls
2 Back pkt. Label attach Snls
3 Front pkt. Facing attach Snls
4 Front pkt. Bag close o/l
5 Front pkt. Binding o/l
6 w/b lining top stitch Snls
7 w/b lining attach Snls
8 Front and back fusing Pressing

9 Front and back serging o/l
10 Pairing and loading Manual
FRONT AND BACK
11 Front pkt. Attach Snls
12 Pkt. Turn and top stitch Snls
13 Front pkt. Stay stitch Snls
14 Front rise serging o/l
15 Right fly attach o/l
16 Left fly attach o/l
17 Dart making Snls
18 Dart pressing Pressing
19 Auto welt Auto welt
20 Welt lock Snls
21 Welt pressing Pressing
22 Key hole w/p Key hole
23 Welt top lock Snls
24 w/p bag close Snls edge cutter
25 w/p binding o/l
26 Bar tack w/p b/t
27 Side seam join Sncs
28 Inseam join Sncs
29 Seam bursting Pressing

30 Seam bursting Pressing
ASSEMBLY 1
31 w/b marking Manual
32 Loop attach Snls ec
33 Left fly and zipper attach Snls
34 w/b attach left Snls
35 w/b attach right Snls
36 w/b extn. Close Snls
37 Hook and bar attach Hook and bar
38 Right fly lining attach Snls
39 w/b and fly pressing pressing
40 Left fly edge stitch Snls
41 Right fly edge stitch Snls
42 Front raise join Snls
43 J stitch Snls
44 Main label attach Snls
45 Back raise marking Manual
46 Back raise join Tncs
47 Front raise finishing Snls
48 Seat pressing Buck vaccum
49 w/b top stitch Snls
50 w/b top stitch Snls

51 Size label attach Snls
52 Pin tack Pin tack
ASSEMBLY 2
53 Loop down bar tack b/t
54 Loop finish b/t
55 Pkt., fly bar tack b/t
56 Key hole Key hole
57 Button attach b/a
58 Trimming Manual
59 End line inspection Manual
60 Button wrapping Wrapper
FINISHING
61 Leggar pressing
62 Topper pressing
63 Topper pressing
64 Topper pressing
65 Checking Manual
66 Packing manual
Table 37Operation Breakdown of trouser floor line 1

Figure 68 New Layout for trouser line 1
Figure 69 New Layout for trouser line 1

Figure 70trouser line Implemented layout
30.6 Benefits:
• Material movement was reduced.
• All the machines were brought inside the line.
• Packing is done inside the line.
• Reduced number of machineries used.
• Reduced number of helpers.
32 IMPLEMENTATIONS OF NEW TROUSER LINE

32.1Objective:
To implement a new trouser line (line 3) in the floor in order to increase the production and
efficiency of the trouser floor.
32.2 Methodology:
• Examine the new trouser style.
• Develop a process flow for the new trouser style.
• Develop an operation breakdown for the new trouser style.
• Calculate the number of machineries and number operators required.

• Develop a new layout for trouser line 3.
• Implement the new trouser line.
• Train the operators for the new trouser style.
32.3 Operation breakdowns for new trouser style:
S.NO OPERATION MACHINE
Preparatory
1 Back pocket facing attach SNLS
2 Front pocket facing attach SNLS
3 Front pocket bag close O/L
4 Front pocket turn and T.S SNLS
5 Front panel surging O/L
6 Back panel surging O/L
7 Front & Back panel fusing Pressing
8 Pairing Manual
Front & back
9 Coin pocket attach SNLS
10 Coin pocket surging O/L
11 Coin pocket re – stitch SNLS
12 Front pocket attach SNLS
13 Front pocket facing E.S SNLS

14 Front pocket stay stitch SNLS
15 Front rise & pocket facing surging O/L
16 Left fly attach SNLS
17 Right fly attach SNLS
18 Dart making SNLS
19 Dart press SNLS
20 Back pocket welting Auto welting
21 Back rise binding SNLS
22 Keyhole back pocket Button hole
23 Back pocket close SNLS EC
24 Turn and T.S back pocket SNLS
25 T.S welt pocket lip SNLS
26 Front rise (crotch) SNCS
27 Back rise marking Manual
28 Back rise closing SNCS
29 Side seam SNCS
30 Inseam SNCS
31 Welt pocket stay stitch SNLS
32 Seam bursting Open press
Assembly 1
33 Waistband marking Manual

34 Waistband extension preparation SNLS
35 Waistband lining attach SNLS
36 Loop attach SNLS
37 Waistband attach SNLS
38 Waistband extension turn & lock SNLS
39 Right fly lining attach SNLS
40 Waistband & fly pressing Pressing
41 Right fly top Stitch SNLS
42 Left waistband extension lock SNLS
43 Slider and brad attach YKK
44 J – stitch SNCS
45 Main label attach SNLS
46 Size label attach SNLS
47 Inline inspection Manual
48 Seat pressing Buck vacuum press
Assembly 2
49 Loops down Bartack Bartack
50 Pockets, Fly, Crotch Bartack Bartack
51 Loop finish Bartack
52 Keyhole Waistband Buttonholer
53 Button attach waistband Button sewer

54 Bottom hemming SNLS
55 Trimming Trimming table
56 End line inspection Manual
Button wrapping
57 Button wrapping
M/C
Finishing
58 Legger Pressing
59 Topper Pressing
60 Topper Pressing
61 Topper Pressing
62 Checking Manual
63 Packing Manual
Table 38 operation breakdown of new trouser line
Figure 71 implemented of new trouser line

Figure -72implemented of new trouser line
32.4. Benefits:
• The idle space in the trouser floor was used efficiently.
• The trouser production target will be increased from 1000 to 1500 pieces per day.
• No helpers were used in the line.
• Operators were used efficiently.
• Higher profit can be achieved with the increased production.
33 LAYOUT DEVELOPMENTS FOR NEW TROUSER LINE

33.1Objective:
To develop a new layout for trouser line 4.
33.2. Methodology:
• Examine the space available for new trouser line.
• Calculate the space required for a new trouser line.
• Develop a new layout that suits for all styles of trouser.
• Calculate the number of operators required.
• Calculate the number of machineries required.
• Develop a layout by placing all the machineries within the line.

33.3. Requirements:
• Area required:
Length 160
Width 16’
Table 39 Area
• Machineries:
SNLS 32
O/L 7
SNLS EC 3
SNCS 2
TNCS 1
A/W 1
Hook and bar 1
Bar tack 5
Keyhole 2
Button attach 2
A/S 1
Pressing 5
Legger 1
Topper 3
Button wrap 1
Pintuck 1
Table 7
Table 40 Machineries
• Operators:
Machine operators 68
Helpers 7
Table 41 Operators

33.4. Benefits:
• Idle space can be used efficiently.
• New line can be implemented easily using the developed layout.
• Number of operators, machineries and the space required can be identified.
34 WIP REDUCTION
34.1 Objective:
• To reduce the WIP inside the line.
• To properly balance the line.
• To maintain a continuous and smooth flow of materials.
• To reduce the time wastage due to more WIP.
34.2 Observations:
• More than 500 WIP inside the line.
• No continuous loading of cut parts.
• Improper coordination between departments.
• Poor planning.
• Lesser production.
34.3 Methodology:
• Develop a new production report format for production report for proper tracking of daily
production.
• Develop a new format for cutting department to continuously track the loaded materials,
cut parts available and cut parts remaining for loading.
• Calculate the standard WIP to be maintained inside the line.
• Implement and maintain the calculated WIP inside the line.
34.4 WIP calculations:

• Takt time= available time/target
o 400/500= 0.96=57 sec.
o Number of operations* WIP per operation
o 50*3= 150 pcs.
• WIP inside the line = 150 pcs.
• WIP in loading= 63pcs.

• WIP in preparatory process=63*2=126pcs.
• Total WIP= 338pcs.
34.5 Daily production report format.
Figure 73Production Format

34.6 Cutting department loading format.

Figure 74 Cutting Department Loading Format
Figure 75 cutting department loading format
34.7Benefits:
• All departments were aware of the order and planning.
• Proper coordination between the departments.
• Proper tracking of cut parts loading.
• Proper tracking of daily production.
• Reduces WIP inside the line.
• Smooth and continuous flow of material

35 CONCLUSIONS:
It’s a great pleasure to work with Dress Master Apparel Private Limited (A Raymond group Of
Company) where learning is an opportunity. This company is one of the best example of Vertically
Integrated apparel solution and there still scope of improvement in system to enhance the process
on which company experts are working. Whereas our concept of analysis of non – productive hours
through real time monitoring will help organization to great extent.

36. GLOSSARY OF FIGURES, TABLES, GRAPHS
Figure 1-Trouser ........................................................................................................................... 20

Figure 2-vest coat .......................................................................................................................... 21
Figure 3-Jacket .............................................................................................................................. 22
Figure 4-loading/un loading area Figure 5-previous layout .............................. 58
Figure 6-un organized roll & pallet Figure 7-previous arrangement of m/c............... 58
Figure 8-Previous layout of fabric store ....................................................................................... 62
Figure 9-Modified layout .............................................................................................................. 62
Figure 10-before shine Figure 11-After shine ........................... 66
Figure 12-unwanted fabric samples Figure 13-maintained workstations ........... 67
Figure 14-Previous material flow Figure 15-Modified material flow ........... 76
Figure 16-Performance matrix board ............................................................................................ 80
Figure 17-Incoming material tracking board ................................................................................ 81
Figure 18-Fully updated material stacking &tracking board ........................................................ 84
Figure 19-Lay report ..................................................................................................................... 90
Figure 20-Lay plan ........................................................................................................................ 91
Figure 21-Mini marker .................................................................................................................. 92
Figure 22-Sticker .......................................................................................................................... 92
Figure 23-weight being used while spreading .............................................................................. 93
Figure 24-Lay report ..................................................................................................................... 95
Figure 25-manual cutting using band knife .................................................................................. 97
Figure 26-Gurber cutter .............................................................................................................. 100
Figure 27-Putting cut sticker on cut panels................................................................................. 101
Figure 28-Same size parts tied together in a bundle ................................................................... 102
Figure 29-Needle inside pinning table ........................................................................................ 103
Figure 30-Thread to be tied after pinning ................................................................................... 103
Figure 31-Cutting of blocks with band knife cutter .................................................................... 104
Figure 32-Stickering ................................................................................................................... 107
Figure 33-Numbering mock standard ......................................................................................... 107
Figure 34-picking and arranging of fusing parts......................................................................... 108
Figure 35-Placement of fuse on racks Figure 36-Standard fusing mock .................................. 108
Figure 37-Before hanging of name board Figure 38-After hanging of name bard ............ 109
Figure 39-Lay schedule sheet ..................................................................................................... 110
Figure 40-Uneven plies ............................................................................................................... 112
Figure 41-Differencein actual and planned lay length ................................................................ 112
Figure 42-Lay sheet .................................................................................................................... 113
Figure 43-fish bone diagram of fabric wastage in spreading ...................................................... 113
Figure 44-Measurement tape on table......................................................................................... 114
Figure 45-Allocation of fuse with naming .................................................................................. 118
Figure 46-Pair fusing .................................................................................................................. 120

Figure 47-Hourly production tracking board .............................................................................. 123

Figure 48-Tracking sheet for numbering .................................................................................... 124
Figure 49-Feed tracking sheet ..................................................................................................... 125
Figure 50-Existing string diagram .............................................................................................. 127
Figure 51-Proposed string diagram ............................................................................................. 128
Figure 52-Existing layout ........................................................................................................... 130
Figure 53-Proposed layout .......................................................................................................... 131
Figure 54 Existing Layout of jacket line 1.................................................................................. 147
Figure 55 implemented layout jacket line 1 ................................................................................ 148
Figure 56 Existing string diagram board .................................................................................... 149
Figure 57 Implemented string Diagram board ............................................................................ 149
Figure 58 Machines not in use area ........................................................................................... 150
Figure 59 jacket final defects ...................................................................................................... 158
Figure 60 top five defects ........................................................................................................... 158
Figure 61 Before ......................................................................................................................... 160
Figure 62 After ............................................................................................................................ 160
Figure 63 After ............................................................................................................................ 161
Figure 64-Before Figure 65-After ................................................. 161
Figure 66 implementation of new layout .................................................................................... 164
Figure 67 Exiting Layout ............................................................................................................ 165
Figure 68 New Layout for trouser line 1 .................................................................................... 169
Figure 69 New Layout for trouser line 1 .................................................................................... 169
Figure 70trouser line Implemented layout .................................................................................. 170
Figure 71 implemented of new trouser line ................................................................................ 174
Figure -72implemented of new trouser line ................................................................................ 175
Figure 73Production Format ....................................................................................................... 178
Figure 74 Cutting Department Loading Format ........................................................................ 179
Figure 75 cutting department loading format ............................................................................. 179

Table 1-Unit profile ...................................................................................................................... 18

Table 2-fabric store details............................................................................................................ 26
Table 3-staff work load of fabric store ......................................................................................... 31
Table 4-Machine details ................................................................................................................ 33
Table 5-quality equipment details ................................................................................................. 33
Table 6-checking details of trims .................................................................................................. 36
Table 7-staff work load of trim store ............................................................................................ 40
Table 8-Trouser checking on cutting floor ................................................................................... 46
Table 9-checking of jacket (shell) cut parts on cutting floor ........................................................ 47
Table 10- checking of jacket (lining) cut parts on cutting floor ................................................... 47
Table 11-trouser floor details ........................................................................................................ 48
Table 12-checking details of trouser floor .................................................................................... 49
Table 13- checking details of trouser floor ................................................................................... 50
Table 14-checking detail of jacket floor ....................................................................................... 52
Table 15-checking details of vest coat floor ................................................................................. 53
Table 16-previous layout details ................................................................................................... 57
Table 17-Material wise rack capacity ........................................................................................... 59
Table 18-exiting & modified rack details ..................................................................................... 61
Table 19-ABC analysis (June-17 data) ......................................................................................... 63
Table 20-comparision between existing and proposed sort states ................................................ 64
Table 21-red tag form ................................................................................................................... 65
Table 22-comparision between existing & proposed straighten states ......................................... 66
Table 23-monthly quality points report ........................................................................................ 77
Table 24-Monthly material issue report ........................................................................................ 78
Table 25-Monthly absenteeism report .......................................................................................... 78
Table 26-performance matrix report ............................................................................................. 80
Table 27-Incoming material tracking format ................................................................................ 81
Table 28-Retrival time of fabric store ........................................................................................... 82
Table 29 Categories of style ....................................................................................................... 136
Table 30- basic style operations and machine requirements ...................................................... 141
Table 31- Semi critical operations and machine requirements ................................................... 145
Table 32machine dimensions ...................................................................................................... 146
Table 33 Data record table alteration by sleeve section ............................................................. 154
Table 34 self-checking checklist ................................................................................................. 156
Table 35 five defects weekly reports .......................................................................................... 158
Table 36 details of trouser floor .................................................................................................. 162
Table 37Operation Breakdown of trouser floor line 1 ................................................................ 168
Table 38 operation breakdown of new trouser line .................................................................... 174
Table 39 Area .............................................................................................................................. 176
Table 40 Machineries .................................................................................................................. 176
Table 41 Operators ...................................................................................................................... 176

Graph 1-Retrival time of fabric store ............................................................................................ 83

Graph 2-Fabric waste per ply during spreading .......................................................................... 114
Graph 3-percentage reduction of wastage................................................................................... 115
Graph 4-No proper arrangement and naming of fuse in the rack ............................................... 116
Graph 5-Fuse parts searching time graph ................................................................................... 117
Graph 6-Time difference graph after implementation of solution .............................................. 118
Graph 7-time taken for fusing ..................................................................................................... 119
Graph 8-Time study after implementation .................................................................................. 120
Graph 9-Difference in production after implimentation ............................................................. 121
Graph 10 DHU Graph ................................................................................................................. 154

Apparel Intrnship 2017 (Aakib, Nidhi, Anupma)

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Apparel Internship- Dress Master Apparel Private Limited (A Raymond group Of Company)

Aakib Ahamed Qureshi

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

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AAKIB AHAMED QURESHI

National Institute of Fashion Technology Page 5|

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5. FABRIC STORE ................................................................................................................................ 57

6.3 Safety: ............................................................................................................................................... 77

13.2. Description of processes in spreading department ......................................................................... 89

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23.4 Project outcome............................................................................................................................ 134

TOP FIVE DEFECTS ....................................................................................................................... 158

34.2 Observations: ................................................................................................................................ 177

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1.1 RAYMOND- organization structure

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2. Introduction- Dress Master Apparel Private Limited

2.1 Unit profile

NAME OF THE UNIT Dress Master Apparel Private Limited

ADDRESS 76/77,6TH MAIN,3RD Phase ,Peenya

HEAD OFFICE J.K. Gram ,Pokharan Road,

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PRODUCTION CAPACITY 19,000 Jacket/Month

Table 1-Unit profile

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2.2 Unit Organization Structure

Suit cutting Accounts

Jacket sewing & finishing maintenance

Trouser sewing & finishing IT (Out source)

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The different types of trousers made are:

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Two types of vest coat form-

Figure 2-vest coat

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4.1 Fabric Store and Trim Store

Fabric recieved Report Purchasing Department

Checking of P.O. If not as per requirement

Checking Packing list,

Entry acc to PO ref no

GRN & Swatch card GRN sent to Accounts Department

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Fabric Issuing Process:

Prod plannig Meeting

Report send to cutting CAD Department makes maker

Enrty on stage Cutting Department makes Indent

Entry of rolls issued into

Fabric gate pass

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Daily Target for Jacket: 1530m

Daily Target for Trouser 1820m

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• Complete visual inspection is been done by 4 point inspection system.

• They prepare 8 parameter report.

• They prepare CSV i.e. (centre to selvedge and selvedge to selvedge).