Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Minsk
July 2008 - July 2009

Cleaning up
its act
More tourist-friendly
than ever

What to buy
Our pick of the best
N°10
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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Arriving in Minsk 6
Are we there yet?
The Basics 8
Essential information, from tipping to toilets
History 10
What made Minsk? Here’s the recipe
Where to stay 12
Overpriced accommodation options
Dining & Nightlife
Where to eat 15
Stick your fork somewhere nice
Cafés 21
Coffee, cakes and jellied mutants
Nightlife 22
Are you ready for this?
Honestly, Belarusian schoolchildren really do look like this.
Contents 
Minsk has a pleasantly romantic feel to it in summer with
hordes of young people strolling around the city hand in
hand with their lover (or a beer bottle). In particular, they
gather by the Svisloch river in vast numbers. True, it’s
not exacly Paris, but the combination of Minsk’s laidback
atmosphere and elegantly anachronistic architecture gives
the city an endearing charm. Perhaps it’s simply a lack of a
highly developed Western-style entertainment industry, but
there is certainly a lot of love in the air in Minsk.
Sightseeing
What to see 24
Unmissable Minsk
Getting around 28
Read this, or get lost
Mail & phones 33
Keeping in touch with reality
Shopping 34
If you must ...
Directory 36
Hand-picked and handy
Maps
Street index 38
City centre map 39
City map 40
Country map 42
July 2008 - July 2009
 Foreword
Quite simply, there is nowhere like Belarus. For
many Westerners it’s a pariah state presided over Europe In Your Pocket
by the much-vilified You-Know-Who, while Minsk
is little more than a quirky reminder of the Soviet
Union in its pompous prime. But for those who
actually bother to go and see it for themselves,
Minsk is a surpsingly charming, calm, clean and
safe city. Locals talk freely and frankly about
You-Know-Who with either contempt or affection,
largely depending on their situation and income.
But most take a genuine pride in their city which,
it must be remembered, was built out of the
total devastation of WWII. Minsk now serves as
an almost unparalleled monument to the more
grandiose aspirations of Soviet architecture
and urban planning. The city centre’s spacious,
pedestrian-friendly streets and ornate facades are
truly impressive at times. There is not a great deal
to do in terms of sightseeing compared with most
European capitals. A few days, or a week at most,
should suffice to get the best out of the city. Minsk is
more a place to stroll around and soak up the unique
atmosphere. In keeping with the rest of Europe,
prices continue to rise sharply, notably with fuel and
food, meaning the prices listed here will probably be
Like dominoes the capitals of the Balkans are
out of date before long. That said, you’ll still feel like
falling in the wake of In Your Pocket’s onward
a tycoon with so many roubles in your pocket. march. After Athens - launched in April - Belgra-
de and Ljubljana have been quick to surrender,
Cover story and new guides to Sarajevo and Mostar are in
the works. Add in new editions of the Tirana,
As our cover shows, Minsk is a Skopje, Pristina and Podgorica guides, and
seriously clean city. But beyond the you have a full set.
carefully controlled veneer of calm Elsewhere arround the Pocket Empire there are
and respectability, we are happy to new annual guides in Parnu and Tartu (Estonia),
say Minsk has become much more
tourist-friendly. Menus are increas-
Kaunas and Klaipėda (Lithuania), while Poland’s
ingly in English (and occasionally top mountain resort Zakopane now has its own
German), bureaucratic procedures mini-guide. Look out for lots more new In Your
are less stringent and a real tourism Pocket mini-guides in a number of European cities
infrastructure is emerging. Uraaa! this summer.

Editorial Copyright notice

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Publisher Vilnius In Your Pocket
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tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76
fax (+370-5) 212 29 82
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ISSN 1822-1785
©UAB “VIYP”
Printed by A.Jakšto spaustuvė.
Published once a year (probably).
An as-yet undetermined number
of copies will reach the brave and
curious. And the Editor’s mum.
Editor Tim Ochser
Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė
Research Belarus Tour Service
Cover Photo Tim Ochser
Sales & Distribution
Publisher Vilnius In Your Pocket
General Manager Gabija Thomson
Accounting CO Finansai
Distribution +370 610 468 40
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Text and photos copyright UAB VIYP
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Pocket is used under license from UAB
In Your Pocket (Vokiečių 10-15, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. +370-5 212 29 76).
Editor’s note
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guides is independent from paid-for
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clearly marked as such. We welcome all
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Minsk In Your Pocket

 Get In Your Pocket before you go
The full In Your Pocket range is available to purchase online at:
www.inyourpocket.com/clickandbuy
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Shopping fever Wilanów walking…
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Let’s rock
Versailles Russian in Russia Visiting the Bohemian
Paradise
Facade art The best ways to discover
the language
Painting the city pink Out of town
Poland‘s top spa town:
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August - September 2006 April - May 2006 August - September 2006 June - July 2006

Football events
Win or lose, this is
where to party

River tours
Wine and dine on the
Rhine

The Great
Outdoors
Cycling, skydiving and
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Gastro Tourism
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Tarnów Touring Narva

Explore the Pearl of the Cool sights at the EU‘s
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BERLIN GDAŃSK Including

RIGA HAMBURG ŁÓDŹ
SOPOT & GDYNIA
August - September 2006 August - November 2006 April - May 2006 June - July 2006 September - December 2006

Kashubia
Exploring the Polish Alps

Hot spots Hockey Fever Harbour tours Hollyłódź

The Baltic’s Beaches Down in the docks Poland‘s cinema city
Everything you need to
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SKOPJE FRANKFURT SHKODRA PRISTINA KAISERSLAUTERN

2006 - 2007 August - September 2006 2006 - 2007 2006 - 2007 June - July 2006

Football events
Win or lose, this is
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Feature 2 - max
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collection collection 3 lines.

Around town Around town

Daytrips to the lake, Daytrips to the lake,
beach and mountains beach and mountains
Football events
Beach bars Win or lose, this is
Cocktail in hand, toes where to party
in sand
Going Palatine
Dram tram Strolling in the forest
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 Arriving in minsk
Traffic simply isn’t a problem when roads have eight lanes.
So, you’ve paid your money, got your shiny new Belarus
visa in your passport (complete with dinky hologram) and
should be able to enter Belarus without too much fuss just
as long as everything is in order.
Getting into Belarus used to be a process that was
legendary for its length, complexity and, in some cases,
downright cruelty. Long queues, dark looks from mean-spi-
rited officials with big guns, incomprehensible forms, and
rigorous (occasionally rubber-gloved ) customs searches
were the nightmarish norm.
We’re happy to say, however, that things have vastly
improved over the last couple of years. It’s far easier to get
into Belarus than, say, the USA these days. We certainly
had no problems at the border at all. We think one of the
border guards even smiled, although it could have been an
involuntary tic.
While crossing the border you will have to fill out an entry
card (although it’s really just a flimsy photocopied sheet).
The form is in English, and requires you to pen-in your
details including passport and visa numbers, and your
host (the hotel where you will stay or person you will stay
with). All the questions are clear. To make things smooth
and easy, be sure you have a pen with you and something
to write on (the back of a paperback book, the back of a
friend’s head, etc) when you cross the border.
You have to fill out the form twice. One copy will be kept
at the border as you enter. Tuck the other one in your
passport and keep it with you.
When you arrive at your hotel, leave your passport with
reception, and they will ‘register’ you. You will probably
have to leave your passport for 24 hours or so, and when
you get it back that second-half of the form you filled in at
the border will have been stamped ready to ensure your
smooth exit from Belarus.
Minsk In Your Pocket
By bus
The conveniently located Central Bus Station is temporarily
closed for major renovation work, leaving the far less conve-
nient Eastern (Vostochniy) bus station and Moscovsky bus
station to deal with international buses. Both stations have
lockers for luggage, and other basic facilties.
Getting to town Taking a bus to the city centre is complicated
and involves multiple stops so a taxi is the best bet. The Eastern
Bus Station is 15km from Independence Square with a taxi
costing around US$10-13. Moskovsky bus station is 11km from
Independence Square with a taxi costing about US$10. It’s also
served by the metro which is a cheap and efficient alternative.
By car
Driving in Belarus is generally much better than it used to
be, and certainly less fraught with danger than in some of
its EU neighbours. There is a risk of receiving on-the-spot
‘fines’ from traffic police so stay within the speed limits.
Another hindrance to foreigners is the fact that signs and
street markers are in Belarusian except on the Brest-MInsk
highway. In general speeding is not a problem although there
is the occasional maniac in a blacked-out BMW to look out
for. At the border you will have to fill out a declaration on your
car and buy Belarusian auto insurance which is cheap, but be
sure you have the money in cash (US dollars, Euros, Russian
roubles). There may not be controls at the border coming in
from Russia, but there could be sporadic checks. You’ll have
to pay a small toll for using the Brest-Minsk highway (M1),
which ranges from US$1 for private cars to US$15 for lorries.
In the event of motor trouble, call 116.
Petrol stations Belarus has a state monopoly on petrol,
which means the price and quality are roughly halfway between
those in Russia and Western Europe. On the bright side, the
highways are lined with shiny, state-of-the art stations where
unleaded petrol is freely available and Euros and Dollars are
accepted with smiles ... okay, maybe not smiles, but they
accept them.
 Arriving in minsk 

Tourist information Travel talk

Tourist Information B-1, Prospekt Pobediteley English Belarusian Russian Russian
19 (Проспект Победителей 19), tel. 226 99 00. pronunciation
The only thing Minsk has that’s remotely like a tourist To у / да в/к v/k
information office is a counter run by the state tourist From з / ад из / от iz / ot
agency, Belintourist, attached to the Yubileynaya Hotel. Train цягнiк поезд poiezd
Naturally it’s closed on weekends, when tourists might Train чыгуначны железно- zheleznodo´
come. QOpen 09.00 - 18.00. Closed Sun. Open 09:00 Station вакзал дорожный rozhnyi
- 13:00, 13:45 - 18:00. Fri 09:00 - 13:00, 13:45 - 16:45. вокзал vok´zal
Closed Sat, Sun. Bus Аутобус Автобус av´tobus
Station аутавакзал автовокзал avtovok´zal
Ticket бiлет билет bi´let
Cop a lot Taxi
Today
таксi
сення
такси
сегодня
ta´ksi
se´vodnia
Tomorrow заутра завтра ´zaftra
One thing you will notice immediately upon arrival in Minsk Monday Панядзелак Понедельник pone´del’nik
is that there are rather a lot of people wearing uniforms Tuesday Ауторак Вторник f´tornik
and carrying guns and sticks. Police and military personnel Wednesday Серада Среда sre´da
seem to be everywhere always. This can be a bit discon- Thursday Чацвер Четверг chet´verg
certing at first, but don’t worry – they’re probably not going Friday Пятнiца Пятница ´piatnitsa
to shoot you. The most exciting authority action that you Saturday Суббота Суббота su´bota
are likely to experience is that you will be approached and Sunday Нядзеля Воскресенье voskre´sen’ie
asked to show your documents. Passport, drivers licence, Morning ранiца утро ´utro
Mickey Mouse Club membership card – pretty much Evening вечар вечер ´vecher
anything slightly official looking with a name and photo
will do. Police will understand that you may have left your
passport with the hotel for registration purposes. Minsk 2
Unless you’ve been doing something very naughty, such The city’s main international airport, Minsk 2, is located 42km
as taking photos of the President’s Palace, the police are from the city limits. It was completely remodelled in 2005 to give
only likely to approach you out of utter boredom. They will it all the warmth of an abandoned hockey arena. Once you go
look at your ID, inwardly chuckle at how dorky you look in through the usual customs torture, you end up on the ground-floor
the photo, and twaddle off to find someone else to annoy. arrivals hall. The currency exchange, directly opposite, usually
Let them have their fun. They’ve already sorted out all the operates when flights arrive. Otherwise, head to the larger one
crime and, well… there’s just not much left to do. on the second floor (open 09:00 - 13:00, 13:30 - 20:00). Those
machines that look like ATMs in the arrivals hall aren’t ATMs. A real
ATM is inconveniently located on the third floor, next to departure
By plane gate 1. For public telephones, long distance phone service, inter-
net and post, head to the post office on the third floor.
Minsk has two airports: The tiny, city centre Minsk 1, which Getting to Town The taxi racket that used to fix prices here
only handles a few flights, and the larger, farther Minsk 2, has thankfully been broken, but you’ll still have to pay US$
where everyone else lands. 35-40 for the hour-long ride to the city. If you speak Russian,
your chances of bargaining the price downward are better.
Minsk 1 Otherwise you can resort to haggling with a pen and paper,
Looking very much like a Stalin-era bath house, this box-shaped but it won’t be easy - if you don’t want to pay that price, the
structure 3km south of the centre hardly qualifies as an airport. next chump will. Don’t go by the meter or you’ll end up paying
A currency exchange and café are the only services. more. Your only alternative is to catch the airport bus, which
Getting to Town Bus N°100 will take you to the centre (it costs around 650BYR , but runs infrequently.
heads down Prospekt Nezavisimosti). Buy a ticket on board
for 6500BYR. Taxis outside may or may not be reliable. See
‘taxis’ in the Getting around section for details on how to By train
spot which is which. The gleaming new Minsk train station is a tribute to the modernity
of Belarus, and proof that no matter how much money you spend,
you can still come up with something just as chaotic as the old
Numbers train station. It does have the welcoming look of a shopping mall
though, and if you follow the pictographic signs, you shouldn’t get
English Russian pronunciation lost. A currency exchange booth can be found at the top of the
1 od´in escalator. Find public telephones accepting chip cards on the
2 dva ground floor and in the basement. The basement also contains
3 tri public toilets and a large, 24hr left luggage room.
4 che ´tyre Getting to Town The station is in the centre of town, so walking
5 p’iat’ could be an option. Otherwise, head to the basement level and
6 shest’ follow the underground passage, which eventualy leads to the
7 sem’ entrance of the Ploschad Nezavismosti metro station. (See Public
8 ´vosem’ transport for instructions on how to use it). Otherwise you can
9 ´deviat’ take one of the taxis parked in the immediate area. Naturally,
10 ´desiat’ many of these are waiting to bilk you (though it probably won’t be
More ´bol’she by a horrible amount). To be safe, go for one of the yellow, state-
Less ´men’she run taxis or a private one with 107, 152, 157 or 184 displayed
on the car. Be sure they turn on the meter.

July 2008 - July 2009

 Basics
 The Minsk
telephone code is +375 17
A jolly big involuntary hooray for glorious little Minsk, the
thrumming capital of the tractor-factory republic of Belarus.
May she continue polishing and brandishing her hammers,
sickles, red stars and Olympic rings for many years to come.
Belarus has been proudly Soviet since the day indepen-
dence was won in 1945. That was May 9, by the way, and
don’t you forget it, okay? Just to remind you, Soviet razzle-
dazzle still sparkles all over the city on that day every year. As
for the Olympics, well, Belarus has never hosted the Olympics
but did host some preliminary and quarter-final football games
for the 1980 Moscow Olympics. Not bad for a landlocked little
nation that many people have never heard of.
Minsk may lack sparkly beaches or big-mountain back-
drops, but there are big murals of cosmonauts on the
sides of buildings, a library like a big Dungeons & Dragons
dice, some statues of Lenin, a flag that looks like some-
thing from Fifi The Clown’s knickers draw and some of the
cleanest crime-free streets you could ever hope to strut
around. It’s all a bit 1984, except for its appearance, which
is more like 1964.
As such, a visit to Minsk is a bit of a time-warp and, even
more interestingly, a glimpse of a totally different ideology
in operation. Unmissable? Maybe not. Unforgetable?
Certainly.
Bargains
If you were hoping for a dirt-cheap tourist destination,
sorry, you’re about a decade late and a rouble short. The
days of partying all night for US$10 are long gone. That
said, compared to most European countries, restaurants in
Belarus are still fairly cheap, and you can certainly get around
in taxis without breaking the bank. Other bargains to watch for
are pirate CDs, vodka and caviar. Western imports, many of
which arrive by way of Moscow, are fairly expensive here.
Borders
Belarus sees itself as surrounded (Latvia - 141km, Lithuania
- 502km, Poland - 605km, Russia - 959km, Ukraine - 891km),
or at least threatened on the west side, by evil capitalist
states looking for any chance to do it harm. At most borders,
this paranoia can translate into long queues, thorough
luggage searches, painstaking document checks and
officials who welcome you to their country with all the charm
of a prison guard. The border with Russia, with whom Belarus
has much closer relations, is comparatively lax.
Communism
When the Soviet Union fell apart in 1991, nobody bothered to
tell the Belarusians. Or at least that’s what you’d think given
the abundance of Lenin statues and other Soviet-style flash
that still decorates public squares throughout the country.
For many visitors, this back-in-the-USSR panache is a big
part of Belarus’s charm, particularly the Stalin-era city
centre of Minsk. Not all the holdovers from that period are
as fun though – much enterprise is state-owned, the KGB
still harasses the population and bureaucracy is rampant.
Expect to spend lots of time shouting at people through very
small holes in very large windows.
Minsk In Your Pocket
Customs
The rules for what you can bring into and out of Belarus get
more complicated the more officials you ask, so our advice
is to keep your personal cargo straightforward and minimal
to avoid surprises. According to the Belarusian embassy in
Vilnius, non-residents can bring in, tax free: US$3,000 in
cash, 2 litres of strong alcohol, 200 cigarettes or 200g of
tobacco (if you’re over 18), 5 pieces of jewellery, 1 watch,
3 pieces of leather clothing and 4 tyres (which you’ve
presumably crammed into the pockets of your leather
trousers). Pay attention to your booze – each extra litre
of alcohol you try to bring in will be taxed €20, though why
anyone would take alcohol into this paradise of cheap vodka
is a mystery. When leaving, you can take out up to 500g of
gold and 5kg of silver, so your bling-bling should be okay.
Anecdotal evidence also suggests that you should avoid
trying to take out icons, antiques or any works of art without
the proper paperwork.
Demonstrations
Demonstrations have become a fairly regular feature in
downtown Minsk – not surprising since the government
clamps down on every other means the opposition has of
reaching the public. Most of these gatherings are peaceful
affairs where young people hold up signs while the police look
on threateningly. That said, demonstrations have at times
been met with swinging truncheons or worse, so be aware
of the mood if you happen to be near one.
Driving
Driving in Belarus is generally a smooth experience, at least on
the major roads, which are in good condition and wonderfully
free of cars. Having said that, beware of icy roads in the winter,
potholes on rural roads, and the occasional reckless driver.
The roads in Minsk are excellent and mercifully free of traffic
jams thanks to some large-scale urban planning. In Belarus
you drive on the right, and pass on the left. Kids under 12 have
to stay in the back seats, seatbelts are mandatory and there’s
a zero tolerance policy for drinking and driving. Your licence
from the US or EU is valid in Belarus for six months, after which
you have to apply for a Belarusian licence, a process that’s
said to be fairly uncomplicated.
Filling up
The state-owned petrol monopoly has done a lot in recent
years to install shiny, new stations, ready and willing to take
your dollars and Euros. It comes in 92, 95 and diesel. The
quality of the fuel, while better than the stuff in Russia, isn’t
quite up to Western standards, so you may want to think
twice before poisoning your S-class.
Speed Limits
Speed Limits Cars 60-90-110km/h, buses 60-70-90km/h,
motorcycles 60-90-90km/h in towns, country roads and
highways respectively. All vehicles must drive no faster than
20km/h in small villages. Drivers who have passed their test
in Belarus within the previous two years are restricted to a
maximum speed of 70km/h on highways and country roads.
Electricity
The electricity is 220V AC, 50Hz, and barring lightning strikes,
it’s fairly stable. Nearly all sockets are now the standard,
European two-pin variety, though some of the smaller, Soviet-
style sockets can still be found. For these, an adaptor works
far better than brute force, as you may find out when you try
to take the plug back out again.

Stars are a recurring motif in Minsk, to put it mildly.
Floors
Belarusians consider the ground floor to be the first floor,
and so on.
Health
Unless you packed your lead underwear, you may want to limit
the time you spend in the southeast corner of the country.
This is where radiation from the 1986 Chernobyl disaster
still covers much of the landscape. Short visits (a few days)
won’t harm you though, so long as you avoid locally produced
vegetables, mushrooms, dairy products and the like. For
those everywhere else, the biggest health concern is the
tap water. Though many visitors drink it without problems,
it’s very capable of causing stomach problems. Sticking to
the bottled stuff is the wisest course of action.
Language
Russian and Belarusian both enjoy official status here, but
in reality, Russian is by far the dominant language of daily
life, particularly in Minsk. Just to keep things interesting
though, street signs and metro stations are all posted in
Belarusian, a language that few people here speak. So
who actually knows this mysterious other language? Some
people in the countryside, members of the intelligentsia
and, very pointedly, those involved in opposition politics.
In rural areas, Trasyanka, a mix of Russian and Belarusian,
can also be heard.
Money
After years of hyper-inflation, the Belarusian rouble
(abbreviated BYR) is now fairly stable, mainly thanks to strict
government controls. In early 2008, the exchange rates were
US$1 = 2,136BYR, €1 = 3,300BYR with very little fluctuation
from previous months. Banknotes come in denominations
Basics 
of 100,000, 50,000, 20,000, 10,000, 5,000, 1,000, 500,
not to mention the nearly worthless 100, 50, 20 and 10
rouble varieties. Coins aren’t used at all. Hotel prices listed
in this guide (and those published by most hotels) are given
in US dollars, but cash payments are always made in the
local currency. Exchange offices dealing in major currencies
can easily be found in the downtown area, and rates differ
very little. ATMs are also common on the main downtown
streets, though hard to find elsewhere. Nearly all will work
with MasterCard; but you may have to hunt a bit to find one
that will work with Visa. Most hotels and the more modern
restaurants accept credit cards. Finally, you may hear of
plans to bring Belarus into the Russian rouble zone. These
have been postponed again and again, and at this point,
nobody can say whether it will actually ever happen.
Police
What’s the main ingredient of any police state? Police, of
course. Without them, dictatorship just wouldn’t be as fun.
Belarus supposedly has one of the highest ratios of police to
citizens in the world. We found Belarus’ boys in blue surprisingly
helpful when it came to giving directions, although don’t expect
them to speak English. And you most certainly do not want to
get on the wrong side of them.
Prostitution
Though it is less rampant than it was just a few years ago,
prostitution is a very visible part of life in Belarus, particularly
in Minsk. It’s not uncommon to see these denizens of the
night hanging around certain parts of downtown, and thanks
to clever coordination with most hotel receptions, they
sometimes phone foreign guests late at night to offer their
services. Keep in mind that AIDS is widespread in this part of
Europe. Take precautions or you might end up bringing home
a very unpleasant souvenir.
Toilets
Public toilets and those in restaurants, etc, are still
generally not as clean as those in Western Europe, but
they’ve come a long way from the nightmarish chambers
of foulness they were a few years ago. Don’t automatically
expect them to have toilet paper though. Just so there’s
no confusion, M marks the Gents’ room, Ж marks the
Ladies’.
Visas
Pretty much everyone needs a visa to enter Belarus.
The exceptions are nationals of Armenia, Cuba, Georgia,
Kazakhstan, Kyrgystan, Macedonia, Moldova, Mongolia,
North Korea, Poland, Russia, Serbia and Montenegro,
Tajikistan, Ukraine, Uzbekistan and Vietnam. The visas are
supplied by your nearest Belarusian embassy or consulate.
The recommended practice, however, is not to deal with the
embassy directly, but instead to go through a travel agency
that specialises in Belarusian visas (in fact, some consulates
only give you this option). The procedure usually costs around
US$40 - 80 for a single entry tourist visa, and saves you a
major headache into the bargain. In theory, it’s also possible
to get a visa on arrival at the Minsk 2 airport if you have an
invitation with you, but in practice, it’s an expensive and risky
option. We recommend getting your visa before you arrive.
Once in the country, you have three working days to get your
visa registered. Hotels will do this for you, but if you’re not
staying in a hotel, you’ll have to register at your local OVIR
(Office of Visas and Registration). If you don’t register, you
could have problems when you’re trying to leave the country.
July 2008 - July 2009
10 History
Yet another fine hammer and sickle.
10th century 980AD Prince Rogvold begins a reign of the
Polotsk region in what is now northern Belarus. The first
written record of the Belarusian state.
11th century 1067 First mention of Menesk (Minsk).
The name allegedly derives from the Slavic verb “meniat”
(to change) as Minsk quickly developes into one of the
commercial centres of Eastern Europe.
12th century Formation of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania,
which grew to include present-day Belarus and become the
largest state in Europe by the 15th century.
16th century 1569 Foundation of the Polish-Lithuanian
Commonwealth. Belarus ceases to exist as a national entity.
1588 Statute of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania.
17th century 1772-1793-1795 After the third partition
of Poland, the whole of Belarus is incorporated into the
Russian tsarist administrative system. Minsk becomes the
regional capital.
20th century 1918, March 9 In the chaos of the Bolshevik
revolution, an ephemeral Belarusian Popular Republic is
declared while the country is still under German-Austrian
occupation. 1918, March 25 The independence of Belarus
is proclaimed for the first time. 1919, Jan 1 Foundation of
the Belarusian Soviet Socialist Republic (BSSR). 1922, Dec
31 Russia, Ukraine, Belarus and Transcaucasia form the
Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (USSR). 1937 Stalin’s
purges decapitate the intelligentsia. About 250,000 people
The friendly city
The people in Minsk are some of the friendliest you are
likely to come across in your travels. All you have to do
is stand on a street corner and look a bit confused and
some friendly local will probably offer to assist you. Try
to enter a shop through its window, and someone will
promptly be on hand to suggest that you ought to use the
door. Not that we speak from experience, of course.
Many younger people speak English and will be happy to
give directions, read signs, take photos, use the Metro
and so on. While few waitstaff speak English, they are
generally very obliging. If there is a place with grumpy
people and bad service, we just couldn’t find it. And we
really tried. Even the once-infamous border crossing is
less hostile.
As for socialising, it’s very easy in Minsk. Many locals
are still delighted and interested to talk to foreigners.
So, don’t be shy. All you have to say is ‘hello’ and away
you go. Enjoy!
Minsk In Your Pocket
National holidays
January 1 New Year’s Day
January 7 Orthodox Christmas
March 8 International Women’s Day
March 15 Constitution Day
March 12-13 Catholic & Protestant Easter (2009)
April 19 Orthodox Easter (2008)
May 1 Labour Day
May 9 Victory Day
July 3 Independence Day
October 14 Mothers’s Day (2008)
November 1-2 Dzyady (Remembrance Day)
November 7 Revolution Day
December 25 Catholic & Protestant Christmas
are shot at Kurapaty before 1941. 1939, Sep 17 Under
the Hitler-Stalin pact Western Belarus is reunited with the
rest of Belarus. 1941, Jun 22 German troops enter Belarus
and soon overrun Minsk. During the “Great Patriotic War”
one out of every three Belarusian inhabitants is killed and
90% of Minsk destroyed.
1944, July 3 Minsk is liberated by the Red Army. 1946
Belarus becomes a founding member of the UN. 1961
Lee Harvey Oswald, alleged assassin of US President John
F. Kennedy, lives in Minsk, where he meets his wife Marina.
1974, June 16 Minsk is awarded the Soviet title of
“Hero City” for its sufferings in World War II and speedy
reconstruction.
1986, Apr 26 The fourth reactor of the Chernobyl nuclear
power plant explodes in neighbouring Ukraine, polluting 23%
of Belarusian territory.
Independence & Beyond
1990 July 27 A Declaration of Sovereignty adopted by the
newly-elected Supreme Soviet creates a “neutral, nuclear-
free state”.
1991 Aug 25 Declaration of Independence adopted hastily
after the collapse of the hardline putsch in Moscow. Dec 8
Leaders of Russia, Ukraine and Belarus sign an agreement
to form the Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS).
Minsk becomes the administrative centre.
1992 May 20 Belarus introduces its own coupons to
replace the Soviet rouble. On June 1 Belarus leaves the
rouble zone.
1994 March 15 The Supreme Soviet adopts a new
constitution. June 23 In the first free presidential elections
former collective farm boss Alexander Lukashenko is elected
president on an anti-corruption, pro-Russia platform, winning
80% of the votes. Dec The first major crackdown on the
press occurs as two newspapers critical of the president
are closed.
1995 May 14 First free parliamentary elections coupled with
a national referendum: Over 75% of the electorate say ‘yes’
to Russian becoming an official state language alongside
Belarusian; the return of old Belarusian Soviet insignia
including the Soviet Republic flag (without the hammer and
sickle); and the president being granted more power over
the parliament. Sep 12 Two American balloonists are killed
by the Belarusian Air Force when their hot air balloon is shot
down during an international race.

1996 Apr 2 Lukashenko and his Russian counterpart,
Boris Yeltsin formally sign a controversial treaty calling for
a political union between Russia and Belarus. The idea has
already generated large demonstrations in Minsk, which
increase after the signing. June The national flag and
emblem adopted in 1991 is officially scrapped in favour of
the old Soviet-style flag and emblem without the hammer
and sickle.
July 5 Belarus loses its right to vote in the Council of Europe
after failing to pay its dues. Nov 28 The president signs his
new constitution that extends his term of office from five
years to seven.
1997 Apr 29 The Soros Foundation is accused of violating
its charitable organisation status. Having provided US$13
million to Belarusian hospitals, schools and libraries, it is
now ordered to pay US$ 3 million in fines. In Sep it closes
its operations in Belarus. May 24 Russia and Belarus
sign a new unification deal. Basic principles include
ensuring press freedoms, guaranteeing free activities
for political parties and opposition organizations and
inviolability of private property. The treaty goes into effect
on June 11, 1997.
1998 March An economic crisis begins after the Russian
Central Bank suspends trading in the Belarusian rouble,
causing the currency to collapse. Lukashenko steps in and
takes control of commercial banks, worsening the situation. Dec 27
The president shuts down the only opposition newspaper.
1999 Sep Opposition figures Viktor Gonchar and Anatoly
Krasovsky are shot to death. Two years later KGB agents
speak on videotape, admitting the murder.
2000 Oct Parliamentary elections held, most opposition
candidates are barred from running. Voter turnout is so low
in 13 constituencies that re-run elections have to be held
the following March. November Lukashenko and Russian
President Vladimir Putin sign an agreement to introduce a
single currency by 2008, later than previous agreements.
2001 Sep 9 Lukashenko is elected for a second term,
reportedly having garnered 75.6% of the votes. The elections
are widely condemned by Western observers and opposition
as neither free nor fair.
2002 Aug Russia makes proposals for a union treaty that
would essentially annex Belarus into Russia. Lukashenko
rejects it. Oct 30 A mass grave from the World War II era,
containing 12,000 bodies, is discovered at Slutsk. Nov
Belarus’ poor human rights record and its banning of the
OSCE prompt the US and 14 EU states to impose travel ban
on Lukashenko and several government ministers. The ban
stays in effect until the following April.
2004 Oct 17 In another highly suspect referendum,
Lukashenko gets presidential term limits scrapped, paving
the way for him to run again in 2006 elections. Dec
Opposition politician Mikhail Marinich is sentenced to five
years in jail for alleged theft of office equipment.
2005 August Diplomatic row with Poland after members of
Belarus’ ethnic Polish community organisations are arrested
and prevented from meeting, amidst accusations they were
plotting to overthrow the Belarusian government.
Oct President Lukashenko visits China, building relations
between the two countries. A congress of opposition
parties selects Physics professor Aleksander Milinkevish
to run against Lukashenko in 2006 elections. Dec 20
Lukashenko signs an amendment to the criminal code that
History 11
would penalize anyone who makes statements that would
discredit Belarus in the international arena, making such
statements punishable with jail terms of up to two years.
The move is seen as an attempt to thwart opposition in the
2006 elections.
2006 March Lukashenko scores a third presidential term
with 83% of the vote in an election that the OSCE, Europe’s
main election monitoring body, labelled as “severely flawed”.
Protests over the elections are met with police resistance.
Opposition leaders, including presidential candidate
Aleksander Kozulin, are arrested and jailed. The EU imposes
a travel ban on Lukashenko and many of his aides, and
freezes their assets in the EU.
Dec Russia raises the price of gas exported to Belarus,
triggering a tiff between the two allies that would run until
mid-Jan 2007. Russia shuts off an export pipeline that
passes through Belrarus and carries energy to Europe.
The reliance on Russian energy is seriously questioned
by Europe.
2007 May Belarus loses a bid to join the UN’s Human Rights
Council. Human rights groups praise the UN’s deciscion to
omit Belarus. March Police clash with protesters in Minsk as
thousands of opposition supporters hold a rally calling for an
end to Lukashenko’s rule. May Belarus fails in its bid to win a
seat on the UN Human Rights Council. Oct Lukashenko says
Belarus will have to build a nuclear power station in order to
meet its energy needs.
2008
May Eleven US diplomats expelled from the country. June A
new law cracks down hard on Internet news reporting.
Basic data
Population
Belarus 9,800,100, Minsk 1,729,000, Gomel
492,000, Vitebsk 351,000, Grodno 312,000, Mogi-
lev 362,000, Brest 296,000
Ethnic composition (Belarus)
Belarusian - 81.2%, Russian - 11.4%, Polish - 3.9%,
Ukrainian - 2.4%, Others - 1.1%.
Territory
207,600km2. Fertile lowland, with about 11,000
lakes.
Longest river
Dnieper (aka Dnipro, or Dnyapro). One of the longest
rivers in Europe, the Dnieper rises in the Valdai Hills
of Russia, and flows south 2,285km through Russia,
Belarus, and Ukraine, before finally emptying into the
Black Sea.
Largest lake
Narach 79.6km2
Highest point
Lysaya Gara (bald mountain) 365m
Local time
Belarus is in the Eastern European Time Zone (GMT+2hrs),
putting it in line with Finland, the Baltic States, Turkey
and South Africa. Daylight Saving Time (GMT+3hrs) is
in effect from the last Sunday of March until the last
Sunday of October.
July 2008 - July 2009
12 Where to stay
Accommodation is usually the biggest budget-buster
in this otherwise reasonably cheap city. Prices can be
truly out-of-whack: people often end up paying an arm
and a leg for a room that hasn’t been renovated since
Brezhnev’s time. Part of the problem is the state’s near
monopoly on the industry. Another problem is the dis-
criminatory pricing system which sees foreigners charged
twice as much as Belarusians and CIS residents for the
same shabby, cigarette-burned hovel. Luckily things are
changing, and if you shop around a bit, you can usually
find a reasonable deal on a decent room, sometimes
even one with up-to-date furnishings. The cheaper places
tend to be out of the centre. Thankfully taxis in Minsk are
also quite cheap.
We’ve listed prices here in US dollars, but in almost all
cases hotels only accept payment in Belarusian roubles
or by credit card. Another local nuance you should be
aware of is the prevalence of prostitutes, especially in
the larger hotels. Don’t be surprised if you get a phone
call late at night offering you some ‘company’.
Upmarket
Crown Plaza Minsk (Краун Плаза Минск) D-2,
Kirova 13 (Кирова 13), MPloschad Nezavisimosti
(Площадь Независимости), tel. 200 53 54, fax 200
80 60, www.cpminsk.com. Minsk’s first international hotel
chain sets new standards which will have some of its rivals
seething with envy. The two-floor Presidential Suite, with
its private lift and sauna, is the last word in luxury and will
no doubt put up many a visiting head of state and megalo-
maniacal pop star. Standard rooms are also well furnished
and equipped and come quite reasonably priced by Western
standards. The Crowne Plaza’s convenient downtown location
and outstanding facilities, which include a swimming pool, fit-
ness centre, spa, business centre and glitzy nightclub, should
ensure it is regularly booked out. Q Standard singles €225,
standard doubles €260, club room €289, deluxe rooms €300
-340. POJHAFLKCW
Hotel D’Europe (Европа) С-2, Internatsionalnaya,
28 (Интернациональная, 28), MOktyabraskaya
(Октябрьская), tel. 229 83 39, fax 229 83 34, info@
hoteleurope.by, www.hoteleurope.by. The newly opened
and superbly located five-star Hotel D’Europe is one of
Minsk’s finest hotels. The lovely atrium-like lobby includes
a towering painting of Minsk in a quasi-historic style. The
level of service is excellent, while the impressive facilities
include a well-equipped fitness centre and swimming
pool, business centre, underground parking and five bars
in which to unwind and sample some of the local tipples.
Hotel D’Europe also boasts some of the best views to be
had in Minsk. Q 67 rooms: 13 singles €265, 11 doubles
€310, 7 twins €353, 25 deluxe rooms €465, 9 suites
€526, 1 apartment €588, 1presedential suite €1,150.
PJHAFLKCW
IBB (Internationale Bildungs-und Begeg-
nungsstätte) not on the map-close to J-1, Gazety
Pravda 11 (Газеты Правда 11), tel. 270 39 94, fax
270 39 95, ibb@ibb.by, www.ibb.by. As if to demonstrate
that Germany has more to offer than BMWs with blacked-out
windows, the German Association for International Education
and Exchange set up this spiffing hotel and conference centre.
The rooms are clean, bright and somehow both stylish and
austere, with some having a very modern-art-minimalist
theme to them. It can feel a bit 1980s, but that’s futuristic in
Minsk. The attached Westfalia restaurant is a big plus, but
the sleeping-district location isn’t. 35 rooms (singles US$79,
doubles US $109). HAUKD
Minsk In Your Pocket
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre L Guarded parking
R LAN connection G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant J Central location
D Sauna C Swimming pool
I Fireplace W Wireless Internet access
X Smoking section
Juravinka (Журавинка) B-2, Yanki Kupaly 25
(Янки Купалы 25), tel. 328 69 00, fax 227 55 42,
contacts@juravinka.by, www.juravinka.by. Spoiled,
decadent Westerners welcome! For luxury and comfort, this
small but smart downtown hotel attached to the Juravinka
business and recreation complex is a tough one to beat.
Its single and double rooms are comfy affairs, and even
come with an unheard-of bonus: adjustable climate control.
If you have money to burn, you can dip into the realm of
the surreal by booking the presidential suite, which has
its own glass-covered swimming pool. Q 18 rooms (13
singles US$190, 4 doubles US$270, 1 suite US$1200).
PJAFLK
Minsk(Минск) D-1, Nezavisimosti 11 (Независимости
11), M Ploschad Nezavisimosti (Площадь
Независимости), tel. 209 90 78, fax 209 99 111,
hotelminsk@pmrb.gov.by, www.hotelminsk.by. Are we
still in Minsk? This grand hotel with stylish subdued marble in
the foyer and classy coffee-and-cream decor in all the rooms
could have you believing that you are in any western city. Until
you step out the door. Some rooms have views of the adja-
cent Independence Square, but all have satellite television,
minibar, air conditioning and nice firm beds. The ‘superior’
rooms are worth considering for having even larger beds.
Other facilities include a fitness and sauna centre (weights,
cardio, green bubbling vat and both Turkish and Finnish style
saunas), business centre and a helpful English-speaking guest
relations person who will help you with just about anything.
Breakfast included, and it’s edible. Q258 rooms (singles $165
- 185, doubles $215, triples $390-450, suites 270 - 1075).
HJARFLGKD
Victoria (Виктория) G-2, Prospekt Pobediteley 59
(Победителей 59), tel. 204 88 44, fax 204 88 33,
office@hotel-victoria.by, www.hotel-victoria.by. If the
Graduate wanted to book a naughty weekend in Minsk with
Mrs. Robinson (or her daughter, or maybe both at once)
this would be the place. It would also be the place for his
father and her husband to do business. It might be one of
Minsk’s newest hotels (opened in July 2007), but it proudly
glistens with exciting late-60’s décor. Very time-trippy,
but also very opulent. Unfortunately, it’s nowhere near
the centre of town. But if you want to hide in your room,
you’ll be happy with flat-screen televisions, minibar, brand-
spanking new furniture and swish bathrooms. Q 169
rooms (115 singles US$145-165, 45 doubles US$185, 8
suites US$225-570).PHAFLGKDCW
www.inyourpocket.com

Mid-range
40 Let Pobedy (40 лет Победы) H-4, Azgura 3
(Азгура 3), MPloshyad Pobedy (Площадь Победы), tel.
294 79 63. They could just as well call it 40 Years of Tackiness,
but this place isn’t quite that old and the way things are going, it
might just get tackier as the years march on. In a building that
could easily be mistaken for another apartment block, it offers
rooms of various quality (hence the strange price structure).
Cheaper rooms are shabby with no TV. Apartments have spa
baths, bidets and a strange common area with sofas and UV
lights, which looks exactly like a mafia hangout from an 80s
action film. Breakfast isn’t served, but you can buy something
in the cheap lobby café. Q50 rooms (20 singles US$75, 30
doubles US$120). K
Belarus(Беларусь) A-1, Stor ozhevskaya 15
(Сторожевская 15), tel. 209 76 93/ 209 76 50, info@
hotel-belarus.com, www.hotel-belarus.com. Looming over
the Svisloch like an enormous concrete bat, the city’s trade-
mark hotel is a defining part of the Minsk skyline and offers
such classy amenities as a mini water park, dodgy nightclub
and sky-high restaurant offering amazing panoramic views of
the city. Economy class rooms are done up in Soviet Ghastly,
with tiling installed by drunken trolls. Sadly, the hotel will be
demolished at some point in the near future to make way
for an ambitious new four-tower hotel and business centre
complex which some people claim may be up to 60 storeys
tall. See this wonderful and somewhat delapidated landmark
while you can. Q520 rooms: 258 singles US$70-125, 131
doubles US$140-230, 38 suitesUS$170-300, 5 apartments
US$ 565. HAUFGKDC
Oktyabrskaya (Октябрьская) C-2, Engelsа 13
(Энгельса 13), MKupalovskaya (Купаловская),
tel. 222 32 89, fax 227 33 14. A perfect example of
Soviet practicality, the amenity-packed October offers a
billiard bar, gift shop, tourist agency and even a hairdresser
in case you ladies want to go for that classic 1980s rocker
look that seems to be all the rage here. The interior also
dates from that era, with dark corridors and a mysterious
smoke odour that couldn’t be identified. One the other hand,
there’s plenty of closet space, in-room fridge, satellite TV
and wallpaper with weird swirly flower patterns. Paranoids
will appreciate the well-guarded downtown location right
next to the president’s office. Q103 rooms (45 singles
US$ 55-69, 56 doubles US$67-122, 2 triples US$175).
HJALK
Orbita (Орбита) H-1, Pushkina 39 (Пушкина 39),
MPushkinskaya (Пушкинская), tel. 252 39 33/ 257
14 20, reservation@orbita-hotel.com, www.orbita-hotel.
com. Come here to meet George Jetson, rub shoulder pads
with jet-setting rock stars and crime lords, or bump into
miscellaneous space cadet types who can’t get over what
the future was supposed to look like in 1962. It’s a bit trippy
and will require a trip on the efficient metro to get to, but it
offers a range of rooms from fair-value, clean and tidy basic
business rooms to the most expensive hotel room in the
country with its own gym and sauna. There’s also a sauna and
conference facilities for up to 50 persons, humanoids, droids,
cosmic princesses or whatever. Q200 rooms (41 singles
US$76-91, 140 doublesUS$85-137, 24 suitesUS$190-200,
2 apartmentsUS$500). OHALKC
www.inyourpocket.com/
clickandbuy
Where to stay 13
Lounging around town, Minsk-style.
Planeta (Планета) G-2, Prospekt Pobediteley 31
(Победителей 31), tel. 203 85 87/ 226 78 53, fax 226
77 80, booking@hotelpaneta.by, www.hotelplaneta.
by. They seem to have Minsk confused with the Mediter-
ranean. Maybe it’s the view of the river? The entrance is
very grand Greek style, while the recently renovated rooms
seem to have been attacked by a flock of flouncy Italians
with a bottomless account at Mama’s Furniture Emporium.
Renovation is on-going, leading to a baffling array of quality
levels. A few rooms remain that ensure that this hotel can’t
quite manage four-star status, but most are easily above
the advertised three-star standard. Other features include
a Swedish business centre, Hertz rental office and a 1994
letter from the then President Bill Clinton saying ‘gosh it was
nice, and thanks for having me’. Q311 rooms (101 singles
US$65-90, 84 doubles US$82-96, 39 suitesUS$120-150, 6
apartments US$180-620). OHALKD
U Fontana (У фонтана) H-2, Amuratorskaya 4
(Амураторская 4), tel. 203 09 58/ 203 58 18, fax 203
14 74, email@ufontana.com, www.ufontana.com. At last, a
healthy refuge in this vodka and potato pancake culture. Opened
in 2005, this tiny hotel attached to a fitness centre is perfect for
aerobics bunnies and muscle-heads. It even has its own ‘sports
restaurant’. That said, even a slob with a beer gut or an In Your
Pocket editor is welcome here, and will definitely appreciate the
sparkling, high-quality rooms, relatively central location and spa
bath. Q18 rooms (7 singles US$60, 9 doubles US$82-102, 2
suites US$150-262). FKDC
Yubileynaya (Юбилейная) B-1, Pobediteley 19
(Победителей 19), tel. 226 90 24, fax 226 91 71, info@
hotelyubileiny.by, www.hotelyubileiny.by. The décor in the
rooms of this hotel seems to have been designed to encourage
sleep. Basic rooms have lots of brown, beige and … oh, excuse
me, I just yawned … grey. The ‘posh’ rooms have a splash
of mint green here and there to stop guests dying of visual
boredom. But while it’s a bit dreary, everything is comfortable
and the hotel comes with a good range of services. It’s a good
compromise between not-very-central location and not-very-
expensive price, and the ideal place for accountants. Tattoos
and other ‘professional’ services available in the lobby. Q
230 rooms (119 singles US$59-92, 83 doubles US$79-118,
19 suites US$153-243). OJHALK
July 2008 - July 2009
14 Where to stay
Low budget said, the ladies who work at reception are friendly enough,
and the scent of cooking noodles (the cleaning ladies’ lunch)
Sputnik (Спутник) J-2, Brilevskaya 2 (Брилевская wafts through the corridors, covering the otherwise musty
2), tel. 220 36 19. Once again our plot to see the rooms at smell. Rooms are basic and worn, with each two sharing
Sputnik was foiled - this time by a receptionist who became shower/WC. The more expensive ‘pol-lux’ rooms are defined
completely flustered when a guest needed, of all things, to by having a TV, phone and some kind of fridge-like apparatus.
pay by credit card. Judging by the lobby though, some re- Q 44 rooms (singles US$80, doubles US$130, lux US$160).
modelling may have been done in the last five years, and the No breakfast. K
place seems to be popular with budget tourists from Russia.
Q162 rooms (singles US$ 66 - 128, doublesUS$ 94- 125, Zvezda (Звезда) not on the map-close to J-1, Gazety
suite rooms US$160). AD Pravda 47 (Газеты Правда 47), tel. 272 85 42/ 270
74 85. Zvezda is a bit far from things, on the southwestern
Turist (Турист) J-6, Par tizansky Prospekt 81 edge of the city, and the building looks like it was plucked right out
(Партизанский проспект 81), MPar tizanskaya of downtown Mogadishu. But the rooms here are clean and well
(Партизанская), tel. 295 40 31/ 295 40 05, office@ maintained, and guests can use a spa bath, sauna, solarium and
hotel-tourist.by, www.hotel-tourist.by. Tourist is your massage. Apparently there’s some kind of privatisation going on
typical, large-scale Minsk hotel where Al Bundy look-alikes too - small dental clinics now crowd the lower floors. Management
in cheap suits follow you around and bark at you when you claim to have 146 beds available, which we’re guessing means
turn down the wrong corridor. Still, the ladies at reception there are around 70 rooms. Q100 rooms (43 singles US$20,
are friendly enough, and the quick metro ride (4 stops) to the 64 doubles US$40, 1 triple US$78). Singles, doubles US$20 - 70,
centre makes this one of the best deals in town. The lobby 3 lux rooms US$70-100. No breakfast. HAD
has currency exchange and a buffet. If you get thirsty, try the
bar in the second floor casino rather than the over-priced
restaurant, which is usually booked by a drunken wedding Apartment rental
party anyway. Q306 rooms (157 singles US$32 - 53, 106 Short term apartment rental can be a hell of a lot cheaper
doubles US$43 - 85, triples US$51 - 68, 43 suites US$, 1 than springing for a hotel, especially for longer stays. This
apartment US$). OAK option comes with its own risks though - a lot of the agents
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Zhelon (Желонь) (Желонь) H-1, Odoyevskovo 52 visa registation stamp - usually provided by hotels.
(Одоевского 52), MPushkinskaya (Пушкинская),
tel. 252 94 27, fax 252 04 59. The Agriculture Ministry’s Private Apartments www.belarusapartment.com.
dormitory is in an out-of-the-way area that’s next to the Several apartments of different standards in Minsk and other
Bavaria restaurant, some dogs and not much else. That major Belarus cities.

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Minsk In Your Pocket


Eating out in Minsk is no longer the outright horror
that it once was. There now seems to be two kinds of
restaurants: those that get it, and those that don’t.
Generally the newer restaurants are the ones to go for,
as they understand that a combination of a fun atmo-
sphere, good food and friendly service is the ticket to
success in the tucker industry. Shabby old dumps, how-
ever, still persist in offering mediocre food and surly
service among what are rapidly becoming novelty So-
viet surroundings. Such places are almost worth it for
a laugh.Be aware that pretty much all restaurants list
garnishes (such as chips, vegetables, rice, little blobs
of butter to go on your bread and so on) as separate
items, and the cost of these can quickly add up. Also
be aware of entertainment. It’s generally excruciatingly
awful and can turn dinner into torture. Eat early, say
before 20:00, to avoid the acts. Oh - and whatever you
do, don’t drink locally produced soft drinks. They will
make you explode from both ends.
American
Rock House Café (Рок Хаус Кафе) C-1, Nemiga
12 (Немига 12), MNemiga (Немига), tel. 200 45 68/
686 42 10, rockhousecafe@tut.by. An American diner style
place with a little sushi bat tucked away to one side. The
menu will be pleasing to many foreigners with burgers, grilled
meats, and some Mexican dishes. Rock, jazz and other ‘old
but good’ music fires up around 21:00, at which time you’ll
have to pay an entry fee. Bright furniture, friendly staff, and
good times. You might even meet a Russki Fonzie. QOpen
08:00 - 06:00. JA
Saloon (Салун) В-1, Pobediteley 21 (Победителей
21), tel. 203 89 68, www.saloon.by. Incongruously
situated on the ground floor of the imposing Trade Union
Headquarters with its giant hammer and sickle symbol,
Saloon is actually a good place for a bite should you hap-
pen to be passing. It overdoes the American theme a
bit with dishes like ‘Veal in Cowboy Style’ and ‘Montana
Salad’, but the food is good value for money, and there are
live blues and rock bands at weekends. QOpen , Mon,
Tue, Wed, Sun 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00.
PAEBX
T GI F ( Ф р а й д и с ) C - 2 , N e z a v i s i m o s t i 2 2
(Независимости 22), MKupalovskaya (Купаловская),
tel. 227 23 31. Silly hats, klaxons, loud shirts and all the
other nonsense that those who know this American chain will
have come to expect. The formula is unchanged here with
decent food such as burgers, chicken wings, steaks and ribs,
although not served in left-pondian proportions. Worth it for
the New York cheesecake alone. A good choice if you want to
play it safe and go somewhere where you know exactly what
you’re going to get. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. JABX
Asian
Jomolungma (Джомолунгма) G-4, Gikalo 7
(Гикало 17), MYakuba Kolasa (Якуба Коласа), tel.
280 53 88, www.jomalungma.by. Just the kind of Asian
restaurant Minsk has been waiting for, Jomolungma is a
well-orchestrated affair set in a cheerful room of explosive
colours. The outstanding food is mainly Tibetan, with a few
Nepalese, Indian and Thai choices thrown in. Hot towels
precede your meal, and tea comes in a tiny pot set on
a wooden platform. Then management ruin the experi-
ence by playing a synthesised rendition of ‘Jesus Christ
Superstar’, just to remind you that you’re still in Minsk.
QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. PAEBK
Restaurants 15
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking W Wireless Internet access
X Smoking place B Outside seating
I Fireplace J Old town location
Saigon (Сайгон) H-4, Voiskovoy 12 (Войсковой 12), tel.
286 00 39. A brick cellar that, with the exception of a few sticks
of bamboo and some goldfish, isn’t Vietnamese at all. There are
some noodly things in the menu but they’re mixed up with local
Belarusian cuisine and Jewish dishes. Say hello to the wooden
elephant with broken tusks. The menu isn’t in English, and the
staff struggle with translations, so it’s best kept as an option for
a night out with local friends. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
Uzbekiston(Узбекистон) C-3, Yanki Kupaly 17 (Я.
Купалы 17), MOktyabrskaya (Октябрьская), tel. 227
73 14. One of the accidental benefits of slapping together the
USSR was that fantastic cuisine from places like Uzbekistan
got imported to places like Belarus. Expect touches of exotic,
Central Asian ambience along with some pretty tasty food.
The belly dancing might not be authentically Uzbek, but it’s
still cheaper than watching go-go dancers at a club. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. JAE
Vrata Drakona (Врата Дракона) G-4, Kuibysheva
35 (Куйбьшева), tel. 288 25 74/284 91 52. The
‘Dragon’s Gate’ is the best Chinese restaurant in town. That’s
not saying much, but really, it’s quite good. A real Chinese chef
whips up all manner of tasty treats and they are served in a
gorgeous dining room. Lots of red and gold, tasselled lamps
and, if you suddenly feel the desire to have a Japanese tea
ceremony in a Chinese restaurant, a separate little tea room.
QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. AK
A taste of the past
Bomond (Бомонд ) C-2, Engelsa 12 (Энгельса 12),
MKupalovskaya (Купаловская), tel. 227 58 94. Just a
short march from the president’s palace and a real trip back
into Soviet times. Push past the big carved wooden doors to
enter the gloomy babushka-decorated box with stained glass
windows, carefully laid tablecloths and no menus or service in
English. The girl who didn’t serve us was, however, very friendly
about being so useless. Worth popping in only for a glimpse
of the past. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. JPK
Belarusian
Graffin (Графин) G-4, Kulman 11 (Кульман 11), tel.
289 55 55. Something akin to being inside Willy Wonka’s brain.
But a little less sweet. The furniture has been fashioned from
oversized fruit loops and the scraps from the bargain basement
of a Bedouin blanket stall, and it’s all nuttier than a Cadbury
Picnic bar. We wouldn’t be surprised if the waitstaff turned out to
be Oompah-Loompahs riding on midget camels, but didn’t stick
around long enough to find out. They allegedly offer food that is
European and Belarusian. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PGKX
www.inyourpocket.com
July 2008 - July 2009
16 Restaurants
Minsk (Минск) D-1, Nezavisimosti 11 (Hotel Minsk,
ground floor), MPloshchad Nezavisimosti (Площадь
Независимости), tel. 209 90 42. Worth visiting if
only for a peek at the Soviet grandeur of cubical columns
and spaceship-shaped chandeliers. Or for the view of the
wonderful Central Post and Telegraph Office. Or for the
breakfast buffet (33,000BYR). Or for the crockery. Or for, um,
the atmosphere. Or, oh dear, we’re out of space. QOpen
07:30 - 23:00. JAK
Pan Khmeliu (Пан Хмелю) C-2, Internatsionalnaya
11(Интернациональная 11), tel. 226 78 74. A trip
to Pan Khmeliu is like a time warp back to the 80s, the last
time the place was remodelled and the last time the waiter
changed his shirt. Still, this is a popular place to come for
huge portions of excellent pan-Slavic food and all the live
entertainment you can stand. Crowds keep it roaring until
late into the night, though it may close before the stated
04:00 if the last customer passes out earlier. QOpen 12:00
- 02:00. PJAK
Rakovsky Brovar (Раковский бровар) В-2, Viteb-
skaya 10 (Витебская 10), tel. 328 64 04. This charm-
ing if unremarkable-looking restaurant is also Minsk’s best
microbrewery. It produces four brews on the premises, such
as Grashovoe (11%), Pilzenskoe (13%), and the highly-recom-
mended dark Staravilenskoe (13%). The food is standard
Belarusian grub, but it somehow tastes great on a warm
summer evening. A lovely place for a relaxed meal. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. PALEBX
Talaka Straunya (Талака Страуня) С-1, Rakovs-
kaya 18 (Раковская 18)/ 203 27 94. An eclectic cellar
restaurant with a hunting theme (stuffed bunny rabbits are
among its décor victims), Straunya Talaka is one to seek out
for its scrumptious food and unusual atmosphere. Tables
are made from old beds, carriages and the like, and what’s
served on them is mostly potato snacks and skewered
meats. A bit pricier than elsewhere. Reservations are a good
idea since this small place tends to get booked up. QOpen
10:00 - 02:00. PA
Expat avenue
Il Patio (IL Патио) C-2, Nezavisimosti 22 (Незави-
симости 22), MKupalovskaya (Купаловская), tel.
227 17 91. You really can’t go wrong here - central loca-
tion, friendly prices, efficient service, cosy brick décor
... what more could you ask? Formerly ‘Patio Pizza’, this
popular restaurant and meeting place still serves some
of the best pizza in town, though as the new name sug-
gests they have plenty of other Italian dishes too. It also
has some of the freshest, best-tasting salads in Minsk.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. JA
Pechki Lavochki (Печки-лавочки) C -2,
Nezavisimosti 22 (Независимости 22), MKup
alovskaya(Купаловская), tel. 227 78 79, www.
belrosinter.com. A bit barnyard and cottage, but
really rather nice, especially if you get a seat by the
window where you can enjoy the view as much as the
tasty food. Expect plenty of tasty soups, juicy grilled
meats and other hearty Czech and Slavic style meals.
They also have what they call ‘beer rooms’, where you
are welcome to quaff Czech beer and be noisy without
upsetting anyone. Recommended. QOpen 08:00
- 24:00. JAEK
Minsk In Your Pocket
Traktir na Parkovoy(Трактир на Парковой) B-1,
Prospekt Pobediteley 11(Победителей 11), MNemiga
(Немига), tel. 203 69 91/ 203 82 51. It’s supposed to
look like ‘grandmother’s place in the country’, which might
explain the live rooster running around the yard or, at a stretch,
the aquarium full of carp. But it doesn’t really account for the
screaming Gypsy band on stage, or the group of German
tourists smiling politely and pretending to have a good time.
If you want to sample the pelmeni, shashlyk and Belarusian
national food served here, we suggest avoiding the 20:00
- 23:00 time slot when either the Gypsies or a Belarusian
duet are inflicting brain damage on the customers. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. JABK
U Franciska (У Франциска) C-2, Nezavisimosti 19
(Независимости 19), tel. 222 48 02. If you’ve been
looking for the biggest tourist trap in Minsk, you’ve found it!
It’s not that there’s anything wrong with this place - it’s a
cosy cellar restaurant with folksy décor and, it has to be said,
good food. Just be prepared to pay high prices and expect
to be changed extra for everything (sauce, rice, etc). A tacky,
plastic-encased menu holds colour photocopies of each
dish. The deruny (thick, potato pancakes) were excellent. If
you’re an alcoholic, you can order a ‘metre of vodka’, though
it’s presumably for more than one drinker. QOpen 10:00
- 23:00. JAIEK
Buffet express
Krinitsa Ekspress (Криница Экспресс) C-2, Ne-
zavisimosti 18 (Независимости 18), MOktyabrskaya
(Октябрьская), tel. 227 16 08. Perfect for anyone with
an iron stomach and a nearly empty wallet, this downtown
cafeteria serves all the grizzly local favourites. Try the fish in
jelly. Go on, we dare you. Cheap beer served upstairs. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. JA
Lido (Лидо) G-4, Nezavisimosti 49, kor 1 (Независимости
49, к. 1), MYakuba Kolasa (Якуба Коласа), tel. 284 82
08/ 284 82 64, info@lido.by, www.lido.by. Minsk truly
needed a place like Lido. For those of you who aren’t familiar
with this successful Latvian chain, Lido’s philosophy is to serve
an absolutely enormous selection of foods - pizza, pork chops,
ice-cream, you name it - all in a fun, folksy cafeteria set-up, and
all for a bargain price. A staff equalling the population of Riga
buzz around the dining room ready to whisk away your plate the
instant the last morsel of food goes into your mouth. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. B
Maxi Bis (Макси Бис ) C-2, Prospekt Pobediteley1
(пр. Победителей 1), MNemiga (Немига), tel. 206
45 53. ‘Bis’ as in ‘bistro’ but they were too busy to finish the
word. That says a lot about this small, popular, fast-paced
eatery where sandwiches, draniki (potato pancakes) and
meatballs are hastily scoffed down by loud groups of students
and other rouble-strapped types while swigging cheap beer
out of plastic glasses.QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. JBS
Bulgarian
Gabr ovo (Габрово) F-5, Nezavisimosti 81
(Независимости), tel. 287 30 53/ 287 30 54. Although
Gabrovo claims to be Bulgarian, the menu is really just a
generic East European mishmash of mayonnaise-drenched
salads and fatty cutlets. Still, the portions are generous, the
prices reasonable, and the atmosphere has a tacky sort of
charm about it, with lots of starchy table clothes and plastic
vines wrapped around the rafters. A few years ago this would
have been considered classy. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 24:00.

Caucasian
Verba (Верба) F-3, Kropotkina 51 (Кропоткина 51),
tel. 234 34 67, fax 234 69 95. A favourite place to come
for shashlyk, that tasty, shish-kebab-like dish that originated
in the mountains of the Caucasus (think Georgia, Armenia,
Azerbaijan) and became a culinary hit all over the USSR. Tiny,
cosy and well worth a visit. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. A
Fast Food
Byblos (Библос) C-2, Internatsionalnaya 21
(Интернациональная 21), MOktyabrskaya(Октярь
ская), tel. 289 12 18, solimart@bn.by, www.byblos.
by. A bright, busy, noisy Lebanese kebab house where you
can fill your belly without emptying your wallet. Along with the
kebab and salad plates you can get a decently priced chicken
shawarma plate with chips and chichtawook (chicken legs),
among many other goodies. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. JA
McDonald’s (Мак Дональдс) C-2, Nezavisi-
mosti 23 (Независимости 23), MOktyabraskaya
(Октябрьская), tel. 217 65 28. The local McMecca for
spotty youth on weekend evenings. The outisde tables are
a good spot to watch the world go by. Also at Surganova
63 (Сурганова 63), tel. 217 55 50, open 08:00 - 24:00.
Dzerzhinskogo 96 (Дзержинского 96), tel. 217 63 50, open
07:00 - 24:00. Nemiga 12 (Немига 12), tel. 217 84 71, open
08:00 - 24:00. Pritickogo 28 (Притыцкого 28), tel. 210 20
05, open 07:00 - 24:00. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
07:00 - 24:00. JB
Rostok (Росток) D-1, Leningradskaya 7 (Ленинградская
7), M Ploshchad Nezavisimosti(Площадь
Независимости), tel. 206 62 63. It’s the one on the
corner with the portly moon-faced cartoon man holding a knife
and fork. You won’t get a knife or fork inside, however, as it’s
a fast-food, eat-with-your-hands kind of joint. For those who
have just arrived at the train station weary and hungry it’s a
great place to top-up without having to worry about language
difficulties, weird foods or waiting. There’s a point-to-order
menu, the young staff generally speak English, and everything
is clean, efficient, cheap and as-expected of this kind of place.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. J
French
La Crête d’or (Золотой гребешок) C-2, Lenin
3 (Ленина 3), MOktyabrskaya (Октябрьская), tel.
227 32 04. The name suggests it is the highest cock, but
somehow that sounds a bit too coarse for this fine and refined
restaurant. Expect softly spoken men in black roll-neck skiv-
vies perusing a menu that is too good to be translated into
English (you’ll have to read it in Russian or French, darling).
Both kitchen and waitstaff are internationally trained, the
environment is exquisite and the prices are not as strato-
spherically high as one might expect. A perfect choice for a
quality evening. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PJAX
Fun & Funky
Beatles Café (Битлз кафе) G-1, Timiryazova 65(ул.
Тимирязева 65), tel. 209 01 48, www.beatlescafe.by.
All you need is love and maybe a taxi as the Beatles Café
isn’t quite in the centre. It’s a typical café-bar and probably
not worth a visit unless you’re a true fan. Still, it does have a
respectable number of oversized Beatles photos and framed
album covers. The menu claims to offer the favourite dish
of each of the Fab Four. It could do for a surreal night out.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. AK
Restaurants 17
Upmarket
Europa restaurant (ресторан г-цы “Европа”)
С2, Internatsionalnaya 28 (Интернациональная
28), MOktyabraskaya (Октябрьская), tel. 229 84
31. Classy in a stilted, stifling sort of way. Europa tries
just a little too hard to be elegant and sophisticated (we
grimaced while watching a waitress struggle with one
hand to open a plastic bottle of water balanced on a silver
tray). Concentrate on the excellent food instead, such as
the fried camembert with sesame and raspberry sauce,
or the kebab with tiger prawns. The a la carte menu is
pricey, but there is a much cheaper, if very limited, set
lunch option. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PJA
Falcone (Фальконе) С1, Korolya 9 (Короля 9),
tel. 377 77 76, fax 200 29 99, info@falcone.by.
When we asked why there were two formidable-looking
security guards patrolling the entrance, we were cryptically
informed: “To protect our guests.” Falcone is a seriously
lavish Italian restaurant for people with serious amounts
of roubles to burn. But although the food is impressive, it’s
hard not to be bothered by the sheer ostentatiousness of
the place, surrounded as it is by crumbling old Krushosvski
on a drab residential street. A taste of the Minsk to come.
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PTALBW
Juravinka (Журавинка) B-2, Yanki Kupaly 25 (Я.
Купалы 25), tel. 328 68 86, www.juravinka.by. For
overblown formality, Belarusian style, the grand restaurant
in the Juravinka business complex takes the prize. That’s
not to say you won’t have a quality experience here - top-
notch chefs, silly dance numbers and all. They probably
even have doctors standing by when they give you the bill.
(If they don’t, they should.) But you don’t have to spend
through the nose to have a good time here. You can throw
a few gutter balls in the bowling club downstairs, or try the
more affordable dining in the Lasunak café (also a decent
drinking place), which has picture-perfect riverside seating
when the weather is warm. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. JAEBK
Renaissance (Ренессанс) C-2, Pl. Svobody 23
(пл. свободы 23), MOktyabrskaya(Октябрьская),
tel. 227 09 91. If Bill Gates and Al Capone wanted to
do lunch in Minsk, this is where it would happen. Built in a
former monastery print shop, Renaissance is a haven of
beautiful columns, soft lighting and carpets, all working to
create a level of opulence that will drive many of you into
fits of nervous laughter. Specialities like filet mignon in
cherry sauce and lamb with cognac sauce are served to the
sound of tinkling piano music. Guests can also escape to the
billiards room or sink into a leather sofa in the cigar room.
For the same experience without such a heavy financial im-
pact, come for the business lunch, served weekdays 12:00
- 17:00. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. JAEGB
Seventh Heaven (Седьмое небо) D-1, Nezavisi-
mosti 11 (Hotel Minsk, top floor) (Независимости
11), tel. 209 90 38/ 209 90 87. It is believed by many
cultures that seventh heaven is a place where you can
meet God. We came along and looked around but didn’t
see him. Or her. Or it. Or whatever. But you can see the
pretty red church if you look out the window. It’s really a
dinner and dance kind of place that’s not the most hap-
pening venue but it’s a bit romantic. If the couple we saw
snog-dancing were anything to go by, they must serve
aphrodisiacs. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. JPEK
July 2008 - July 2009
18 Restaurants
James (Джеймс) F-4, Surganova 58 (Сурганова 58),
tel. 290 28 88, restaurant@james.by, www.james.by.
That’s James as in James Bond, and luckily you won’t need
top-secret clearance to get in. This slick restaurant-bar is
decorated with neon light bars and oversized photos of the
various Bonds. It’s probably best to come in the evening
to mingle with the cool, night-time crowd at the bar. Here
you can whisper playful innuendos while sipping (as if you
coudn’t guess) a vodka martini, shaken, not stirred. Meals
for budget Bonds available till 16:00. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00.
PAKS
London (Лондон) C-2, Nezavisimosti 18 (Незави-
симости 18), MKupalovskaya (Купаловская), tel.
289 15 29. Once you see past the mountains of London
souvenirs at this cheerful little café, you’ll notice it has two
narrow levels, it’s decorated with red paint, and it has a spiral
staircase at the back - just like those famous double-decker
buses in Hong Kong! (er, and London). Drop in for a quick cup of
coffee from Guatemala or head upstairs to louge out. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00. JBW
German
Bavaria (Бавария) H-1, Odoevskovo 50 (Одоевского
50), tel. 251 21 00/ 205 03 77. It might be easier to fly
to Germany than to trek out to this weird part of town. Still,
the food at Bavaria comes recommended, and the barman
only wears his lederhosen for the promotional photos. Mains
like Schweine Fleisch fall into the US$20 - 25 range, and are
prepared by a German-trained chef. An over-40 crowd shuffles
in Thurs-Sat to hear the electronic keyboard ensemble.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. AE
Westfalia (Вестфалия) not on the map, Gazety
Pravda 11(Газеты Правда 11), tel. 270 57 27/ 270
39 94, www.westfalia.by. A perfect escape from the over-
bearing atmosphere - and fatty dishes - found elsewhere in
the city, the restaurant attached to the IBB hotel/conference
centre offers excellent, fresh food, a soft, modern interior and
an overall unpretentious dining experience. The German chef
cooks up a variety of both German and European fare. Try
the Zurich veal or the speciality, pike perch Papillote style.
Live jazz is performed here on Friday evenings; instrumental
music is featured Saturdays and Sundays. Also note that
the breakfast buffet here may be the best in town. QOpen
07:30 - 23:00. TA
International
Gostiny Dvor (Гостиный Двор) D-1, Sovetskaya 17
(Советская 17), MPloshchad Nezavisimosti (Площадь
Независимости), tel. 206 64 17/ 206 64 27. A swish
swashbuckler of a cellar restaurant that offers a sense of
ancient regalia, a medieval mural and a beautifully decorated
dining room. Food is top-notch and oft-scoffed by diplomats
and those celebrating weddings, anniversaries, the acquisi-
tion of a new mistress and so on. There’s a knight in armour
near the door who stands very still but we suspect might
spring to life if any ruffians or people wearing sports shoes try
to get in. Live performers keep everyone amused on weekend
evenings, and if you stand by the window around the corner
outside, you can see the performers changing into their
costumes. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PJAK
www.inyourpocket.com/
clickandbuy
Minsk In Your Pocket
Grunwald Café (Грунвальд кафе) C-2, Karla
Marksa 19 (Карла Маркса 19), MOktyabrskaya/Ku-
palovskaya, tel. 210 42 55. A half-hearted attempt to
cash in on the greatest battle of Europe (aka Tannenberg,
Žalgiris and “Mel Gibson’s gonna make a film about it one
day”). The food is a bit pricey and the atmosphere is nothing
special, so other than the suit of armour by the door and some
photos of modern-day nutters pretending to be medieval, it
actually lacks any outstanding appeal. Outdoor seating on a
relatively quiet street is a bonus in summer. QOpen 10:00
- 23:00. PJK
Gurman (Гурман) B-3, Kommunisticheskaya 7
(Коммунистическая 7), tel. 290 67 74. The ‘Gourmet’
name is a perhaps a bit of an overstatement but we can
happily overlook such hyperbole. Gurman is one of the nicest
places in Minsk and would snugly fit into any Western capital.
The food is good, if not exacly haute cuisine, and includes In-
dian, Italian, local, and some tickety-boo breakfasts (although
they ran out of ‘toasts’ when we visited at 11:00 one morn-
ing). It’s casual, friendly and delightfully easy-going, and just
the sort of place you’d regularly hang out at if it were in your
neighbourhood. Menus and staff babblings are available in a
sort-of-English. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. JAEB
Golden Age (Золотой век) D-2, Kirova 8/3 (Кирова
8/3), tel. 227 03 33. The décor here is a bit kitsch but
never mind. The food is the highlight along with a pleasant
location. It’s as if the chef has taken some cues from French
cooking, thought ‘well, that’s not going to fill anyone up’, and
so resorted to the typical Slavic habit of making everything
big and hearty. There’s also a decent wine list. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. J
Panorama (Панорама) A-1, Starozhevskaya 15 (top
of hotel Belarus) (Сторожевская 15), tel. 209 76 99.
The iconic Hotel Belarus is a record setter in so many ways - it
has the city’s ugliest bathroom tiles, sleaziest nightclub and
best panoramic view. To take full advantage of this last gift,
visit the hotel’s top floor restaurant, where European cuisine
is served up by the friendly staff. Surprisingly, the prices here
aren’t much different than the city average, with meals costing
about US$15. Still, you’ll probably want to reserve a table and
plan to visit before the ‘ensemble’ cranks up. QOpen 12:00
- 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. PAEK
Upteka (Аптека) С-2, Internatsionalnaya 9 (Интер-
национальная 9), tel. 203 11 27. Upteka claims to be
only the second restaurant in the world on a medical theme.
With a model skeleton, oxygen tank and various other medical
paraphernalia scattered about the place, they’ve certainly
gone out on a limb. But Upteka is also one of Minsk’s trendi-
est new bars, with a young, laidback crowd, and a perpetual
play-list of groovy downloads. It has a roomy, airy feel in which
to enjoy a drink or decent meal. We were impressed by the
rabbit in chocolate sauce and Cyrillic eye-test in the lavatory.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. JAX
U Ratushi (У Ратуши) C-2, Gertsena 1 (Герцена
1), MNemiga (Немига), tel. 226 06 43, www.tifani.
by/pub/. Set over three levels, this spacious and pleasant
bar/restaurant is an excellent place for a meal after an ex-
hausting day walking around Minsk’s blister-inducingly long
streets. The diverse menu is a definite notch above average,
and throws everything from chicken masala to Thai stir fry to
steak au poivre into the mix. There’s also a good selection of
beers, while local bands churn out bland pop tunes and jazz
most evenings. It can get very crowded thanks to its broad
appeal and location slap bang in the middle of Minsk’s most
touristy area. 12:00 - 24:00. PJAEX

Vynarnia (Admiral’s vinnii bar (Винный бар у
адмирала) B-2, Svobodi 8 (Свободы 8), MOktyabr
askaya(Октябрьская), tel. 328 53 32. Tumble down the
rabbit-hole stairs for an adventure in blunderland. There’s a
rubble floor, a forest-like, fairy-tale atmosphere, little wine
barrels that have been turned into mushroom style stools
and a freaky toy rabbit on one of the walls. Despite the wine-
suggestive name, the place has a bog-standard menu with
everything from simple sandwiches to proper meaty meals.
Prices go up after midnight. And the coat-check man turns
into a pumpkin. Probably. QOpen 24hrs. J
Italian
El Pomidoro (Эль Помидоро Кафе) D-1, Kirova
6 (Кирова 6), MPloshchad Nezavisimosti (Площадь
Независимости), tel. 226 10 20. The Tomato is a busy
restaurant near the train station that’s one step up from fast
food. Ask for ‘El menu’ and then order ‘El Pizza’ or ‘El Salad’. It’s
hardly spectacular but decent enough to fill an undiscerning
hole. Kebabs and breakfast are also served. Expect a 15-20
minute wait during the lunchtime rush. Also at Krasnaya 23,
tel. 284 51 86 QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. JAB
Parmigiano (Пармиджано) B-1, Masherova 17/1
(Машерова 17/1), tel. 288 10 61. The chefs come
from that bastion of fine Italian cooking, Moscow. The wine
list, probably one of the best in Minsk, has careful selections
from all over the world and the staff know their way around
it. The menu is vast and offers the full variety of Italian cook-
ing, not just pasta. If your menu is a bit wrinkly, it might be
the one that we dribbled on. This is where the local Mafia
would dine. It’s a bit pricey, but a very nice restaurant and
conveniently located beneath Bronx, the best nightclub
and schmoozing venue in town. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.
AEK
Perfetto (Перфетто) С-1, Romanovskaya Sloboda 1
(Романовская Слобода 1), tel. 200 28 99/ 607 99
99. A slick-suited doorman ushers customers into this sort-
of-stylish, sort-of-tacky restaurant. The pizzas are excellent,
although the pasta and salads are poor imitations of what
they purport to be, despite being served up on sleek crockery.
The service is also extremely good but probably the best
reason to come to Perfetto is to see the local posers hard
at it. They’re far more entertaining to watch than the two
large TV screens beside the bar which show music videos
on a non-stop loop. The barman also helps the atmosphere
along with his well-rehearsed Cocktail bottle-flipping routine.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PJAX
Voglia Matta (Воглия Матта) C-2, Pl. Svobody 17
(Свободы 17), MNemiga (Немига), tel. 203 87 86,
air_grip@anitex.by. The striking futuristic/industrial look
of the place makes this one of the bolder interiors in Minsk,
although there’s a more refined dining area as well for those of
a more conservative disposition. A better-than-average range
of pizzas and pastas, together with a location on a bustling
downtown street, make this a regular favourite with locals.
Great outdoor seating in summer, too, if you don’t mind the
traffic fumes. QOpen 12:30 - 04:00. JEBK
Mexican
Kanyon (Каньон) F-5, Tolbukhina 3 (Толбухина 3),
tel. 281 62 71. What, you were really expecting decent
Mexican food this far into Eastern Europe? Ha, ha, ha, haaa
(...cough, choke). The best they do here is some piped in Paula
Abdul and a disco ball. Burritos are pricey considering they are
about as Mexican as Borsch. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.
Restaurants 19
Pizza
Freski (Фрески) C-2, Pl. Svobody 23 (entrance
from Internatsionalnaya)(пл.Свободы 23), tel.
227 81 72. There don’t seem to be any frescos in here
but there is a bit of a nice arched brick ceiling and cellar
feeling, even though Freski is not actually in a cellar. There
are also plenty of pizzas, salads and main courses along
with a good range of cakes and desserts. If you can find
a staff member who speaks English you will be treated
to excellent service. The prices are pretty good value
too. A safe bet for the unadventurous. QOpen 10:00
- 01:00. JJAS
O l i v o (О л и в о ) G 4 , N e z a v i s i m o s t i 4 6
(Независимости 46), tel. 284 88 41/ 688 29
41. The vast selection of pizzas alone makes Olivo worth
a visit. A nice, easygoing restaurant which is one of the
best places to eat in this slightly out-the-way location.
The food is a fairly standard Belarusian interpretation
of Italian food, but the lively atmosphere and fun young
crowd make such quibbles seem almost pretentious.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
PX
O Sole Mio (О Соле Мио) C2, Svobodi 17
(Свободы 17), MNemiga (Немига), tel. 203
75 05/ 148 33 03. This cosy and (for Minsk) taste-
fully decorated little restaurant is a popular place for
a romantic night out. The voluminous menu offers few
surprises, but the cream of (frozen) spinach soup is pretty
good, and the pizzas are passable. Be warned about the
fajitas, though: they’re just a pile of sizzling meat served
alongside fries. With its plump sofas and quaint fresco
of a pipe-playing faun, O Sole Mio is nevertheless a
good place to enjoy a relaxing meal over a glass of wine.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PJXS
Rainbow Cafe (Радуга кафе) D-1, Kirova 1
(Кирова 1), MPloschad Nezavisimosty (Площадь
Независимости), tel. 328 61 44. Directly opposite
the train station, but not a great option for hungry arrivals
because there is no menu in English and the service is
appalling. If you must risk it you can point to a picture
of a pizza on the wall to place your order. We did notice
a strange smell, so be aware that there might be a pot
of mould at the far end of the Rainbow. There are better
options nearby. QOpen 10.00 - 23.00. J
Te m p o ( Те м п о) F - 5 , N e z a v i s i m o s t i 7 8
(Независимости 78), tel. 284 04 92/255 84
83. The name says it all – this is a fast-paced pizza café
that’s popular with students from the nearby academy.
Small, packed and highly recommended. Also at Pobe-
diteley 89 (Победителей, 89), Lobanka 94 (Лобанка,
94), Marksa 9 (К Маркса, 9), Gromova 20 (Громова,
20), Nezavisimosti 78 (Независимости, 78) QOpen
08:00 - 23:00. BS
Zio Pepe G-5, Zolotaya Gorka 14 (Золотая Горка
14,), tel. 293 72 01/ 276 45 25. Zio Pepe is a popular
chain with a cheery atmosphere and reasonable piz-
zas. Some pasta dishes and tasteless salads are also
served. Also at Timiryazeva 46 (Тимирязева,46), tel.
250 38 72, Pobediteley 31 (Победителей, 31), tel.
(29) 662 74 83, Nezavisimosti 25 (Независимости
2 5), te l . 2 27 02 9 5 QO p e n 1 2: 0 0 - 24: 0 0.
ABS
July 2008 - July 2009
20 Restaurants
Minsk seen from a great height.
Middle-Eastern
Kasbar (Касбар) E-2, Vokzalnaya 23 (Вокзальная
23), tel. 200 81 55, fax 200 25 91. Kudos to this ‘Syrian’
restaurant for its bubbly atmosphere and colourful, Arabian-
inspired décor. The menu is heavy on the shashlyk - a staple
fallback for any Minsk restaurant with a ‘southern’ or ‘Oriental’
theme. That’s not to say there’s anything wrong with it. The
main attraction, though, is the loud bellydancing show that
happens in the dining room. You might as well sit back and
enjoy it - a small charge has already been added to your bill for
‘entrance’ to the show. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. A
Serbian
Porto Maltese (Порто Мальтезе) H-4, Kozlova 3
(Козлова 3), tel. 288 11 53/ 197 0000, www.porto-
maltese.ru. Although the management insisted this is a
Serbian restaurant, there wasn’t much evidence for it on the
menu. No matter, for Porto Maltese is an extremely stylish
place with arguably the best fish dishes in town, including a
wide selection of fresh fish on ice. It also has an amazing
coral reef-style fish tank to complement the marine-themed
interior. But there is nothing at all fishy about Porto Maltese.
It’s behind a modern art museum so expect a cosmopolitan
sort of crowd. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAGX
Spanish / Latin American
Casa Agustin Lopez H-4, Zakharova 31(Захарова
31), tel. 233 95 84/ 177 77 55. They’ve packed in all
manner of Spanish clichés but fortunately have stopped short
of wearing silly costumes or charging like wounded bulls. Food
is mildly authentic, reasonably priced and quite pleasing for
us gringo types. The menu is in English and has pictures for
the linguistically or culinarily challenged. Flamenco and Salsa
parties fire up on weekend evenings. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00.
PALBX
Minsk In Your Pocket
Rounding things up
A new custom has recently emerged in cafés, bars and
restaurants in which the bill is rounded up to the nearest
1,000 rouble note. Given the multiple digits involved in
even the smallest transaction, this is no bad thing. Don’t
consider it a tip but rather a minuscule service charge.
No one seems to know how or why this new custom
came about but it helps keep the wad of notes in your
wallet in trim.
Ispanski Kutok (Испанский куток) C-1, Nemiga
36 (Немига 36), MNemiga (Немига), tel. 328 48 36.
A good menu, a pleasant environment and a good location
in a complex that also offers a café and sushi restaurant.
Un-Spanish classical performers occasionally turn up to
remind you that you’re not actually in Spain. Some of the food
serves as a reminder too. You can also order Japanese from
the Planet Sushi restaurant in the same venue, or get them
to bring up (so to speak) a cake from the café downstairs.
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. JAK
Sushi
Fusion (Фьюжн) В2, Bogdanivicha 6 (Богдановича
6), tel. 334 13 52. Yet another new sushi restaurant in
sushi-obsessed Minsk. It’s the usual deal but in much nicer-
than-usual surroundings. A good range of stir fry dishes at
unfashionably reasonable prices is another incentive to eat
here. You can delude yourself that you’re eating at a real sushi
bar by knocking back the plumb wine or sake. QOpen 10:00
- 23:00. PJAXS
Mon Café (Мон Кафе) H-2, Melnikaite 2-4
(Мельникайте 2-4), MFrundzenskaya (Фрунзенская),
tel. 203 99 57. It’s hard to decide whether this is really a
café, a sushi bar, a nightclub or none of the above. In any
case the open two-floor plan certainly makes it loud and
echoey when the DJ starts cranking up the volume. Mainly
it’s a hangout for young hipsters and anyone in need of the
advertised ‘most affordabel (sic) sushi’. Indeed this is cheaper
than elsewhere and a peculiarly pleasant place in an Eastern
European sort of way. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PABK
P i n t a ( П и н т а ) С-2, Komsomolskaya 34
(Комсомольская 34), tel. 210 58 25. Don’t be fooled
by the sign for Spanish beer outside, or the fact that inside
Pinta looks more like a tavern and is covered from wall to
wall with Soviet posters and paraphernalia. We have it on
good authority that this is, in fact, a sushi restaurant. No one
speaks a word of English but the staff are nonetheless very
friendly and will try their best to help. Quirky fun. QOpen
12:00 - 02:00. PJ
Planeta Sushi (Планета Суши) C-2, Nezavisimosti 18
(Независимости 18), tel. 210 56 45, www.planetasushi.
by. Clean, bright, modern, stylish and foreigner-friendly. These
novel new restaurants can get a bit rowdy when locals swarm
in to laugh at each other trying to use chopsticks, but generally
a slick and sophisticated atmosphere prevails. Waitresses are
dressed up in space-kimonos. The menu is pictographic, so you
can choose and point – and there’s more than just sushi. They
were setting up outdoor seating on the Independence location
during our last visit. One of the most foreigner-friendly outfits
in town. Also at Nemiga 36 (Немига 36), tel. 206 48 36, open
12:00 - 24:00. Lenina 3 (Ленина 3), tel. 220 27 37, open 12:00
- 24:00.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PJAB

Banana Café (Банана кафе) B-2, Storozhevskaya
7(Сторожевская 7), MNemiga (Немига), tel. 289 50
79. It’s certainly bent, but more bruised-banana brown than
happy-smiley yellow. We don’t know what goes on behind the
mirrored VIP door downstairs, but upstairs is a dark café with
a litter of wooden cottage-style tables and chairs. Twigs on
the ceiling add a rustic fire-hazard charm. It looks like there’s
a nice outdoor seating area, but it wasn’t being used when
we visited in May. No menus in English, and we don’t know if
the staff speak English because they didn’t bother to actually
serve us. It’s also one of the few places in Minsk that does
water pipes.QOpen 10:00 - 05:00. PABK
Café Beze (Безе Кафе) C-2, Nezavisimosti 18
(Независимости 18), MOktyabrskaya (Октябрьская),
tel. 328 64 09. Beze bills itself as ‘a gallery of sweet mas-
terpieces’ and that’s a fairly accurate summary of what this
nice old-fashioned café is all about. It specialises in all kinds of
Austrian desserts including strudels and the like. Inexpensive
Belarusian meals are also served in case you feel guilty about
not finishing all your vegetables first. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00,
Sun 11:00 - 01:00. JAB
Coffee Inn C-2, Internatsionalnaya 23 (Интернациона-
льная 23), tel. 227 40 41. The somewhat striking interior
can be charming or hallucinogenic depending on your mood.
But Coffee Inn does what any half-decent café is supposed
to - it serves a good cup of coffee. There’s also a decent
selection of cakes on offer and a curiously Russian-like tent
extension where you can sit and observe the locals leisurely
go about their business. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 01:00. JA
Dom (Дом) C-2, Central House of the Army Officers,
Krasnoarmeyskaya 3(Красноармейская 3), MOk-
tyabrskaya (Октябрьская), tel. 768 90 73. A cinema
café where they show flicks on a wrinkled projection screen
while groovy types scoff sushi, quaff coffee and just giggle
and gabble. Might be a cool spot to arrange a meeting with
local friends, or find some local friends if you haven’t yet
got any. Enter under the gold soviet star. A nice spot of
Minsk madness. Q Open 12.00 - 23.00. J
Ferz Cafe (Ферзь Кафе) B-2, Muzikalnii 1/2
(Музыкальный 1/2), MNemiga (Немига), tel. 226
50 45. The name refers to the Queen in a game of chess
and the place is about the size of a chessboard. It’s very
much an old-fashioned tea room, but really rather lovely.
There are 49 different coffees and about 24 different teas and
they’ll happily let you sniff them all before you order. Salads,
snacks, booze and milkshakes are also available. Service is
pleasant even if they shyly struggle with English. QOpen
10.00 - 23.00. J
Grip (Грип) C-2, Komsomolskaya 19 (Комсомольская
19), MNemiga (Немига), tel. 328 37 93, air_grip@
anitex.by. There’s a definite Italian-ness to Air Grip - after
all, it has the same owners as the Voglia Matta restaurant.
The emphasis here, though, is on ice-cream and cakes. A
strangely attractive place that attracts a diverse crowd.
QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. JAX
La Crete d’Or Café (Кофейня Золотой гребешок)
С2, Lenina 3 (Ленина 3), tel. 105 05 03. This newly-
opened café is right next door to the superb French restau-
rant of the same name. Don’t expect anything even vaguely
resembling a French café, though. La Crête d’Or is a pleasant
but rather nondescript little place which does a good cup of
coffee and nice selection of gunk-filled pastries and cakes. .
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. JX
CAFÉS 21
Moka Lokka (Мока Локка) C-1, Nemiga 36 (Немига
36), MNemiga (Немига), tel. 328 48 36. A bright and
fizzy café with pretty young things swilling about the modern
interior. There’s tea, coffee and cakes in abundance, and you
can also order from the Planet Sushi or Spanish Restaurant
in the same building. With Yukos’s Minsk headquarters next
door, it’s also a good place to catch up on the very latest
gossip from the Russian energy sector. Q Open 08:00
- 02:00. JA
My English Granny (Моя английская бабушка)
С-2, Mar ska 36 (Маркса 36), MKupalovskaya
(Купаловская), tel. 227 22 24/ 227 55 37. Granny’s
still got a bit of spunk left in her yet. Just look at this place.
Sure, it’s a bit frilly and they serve your food on paper doilies,
but somehow the place is kinda cool and groovy. It attracts
young hipsters who drink juice and have pillowfights and just
seem to feel very comfortable here. Probably because it’s just
like Granny’s place. Flick through the packed-with-classics
photo-album menu (worth a visit in its own right), pick and
partake. A good option for breakfast or just couching around
with friends at any time. Good on ya, Grandma! QOpen
09:00 - 23:00. J
News Cafe (Ньюс Кафе) C-2, Karla Marksa 34 (К.
Маркса 34), MOktyabrskaya (Октябрьская), tel. 227
78 67. A haven for lazy or homesick foreigners. They’ve got
English reading matter, English menus, an English breakfast
and free WiFi. All an absolute godsend after a few days in
Minsk. Unfortunately the menu isn’t extensive and the food
isn’t great. The lunch menu, for example, has Italian style
snacks and a few burgers, all more edible than enjoyable.
There’s decent coffee, so it’s the ideal place to drop in
with your laptop and WiFi-away an hour or two. The mod-
estly trendy interior and reasonable prices attract a young
crowd. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00.
PJAXW
Stary Gorod (Старый город) B-2, Bogdanovicha
19 (Богдановича 19), MNemiga (Немига), tel. 286
05 08. It’s safe to assume that any restaurant set in the
town’s recreated ‘Old City’ (as this place is named) has a
certain tourist orientation, but Stary Gorod isn’t one to write
off. The ‘classics’ of national cuisine arrive at your table on
a hot griddle, and most are quite sanely priced considering
the location. Dine on the relaxing back terrace in summer,
otherwise check out seating in the funky cellar. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. JAB
Stary Melnitsa (Старая Мельница ) B-3, Neza-
visimosti 78 (Независимости 78), tel. 284 44 40. A
long-time favourite, Old Mill is probably smaller than a real
windmill, so inhale before you try to squeeze in here. Then
head up the creaky staircase at the back and grab one of
the little tables under the stuffed pig. Belarusian bar food is
on offer, meaning salads and shashlyk. It’s not worth going
out of your way for, but if you happen to be in the area it’s a
charming place for a bite.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. P
Stary Mensk (Старый Менск) C-2, Nezavisimosti
14 (Независимости 14), MPloshchad Nezavisimosti
(Площадь Независимости), tel. 289 14 00. The
size of a tea chest and intricately decorated with all sorts
of old coffee tins, mysterious bottles and labels stuck to
the tables so you think you’re eating off a well travelled
person’s suitcase. It’s all very nice with a groovy elbows-in
feeling. There are French press coffees, plenty of teas
(including authentic mate) and a few snacks. In summer
there’s a quaint bubble-like tent outside. QOpen 09:30
- 23:00. JBX
July 2008 - July 2009
22 Nightlife
There are two defining characteristics of a night out in
Minsk: friendliness and strangeness. You’ll encounter
both at the same time, in the same place and in ample
portions. You’ll also notice an over-abundance of tables
and alleged entertainment. Nightclubs and bars seem to
want to be cabaret-style restaurants, and vice versa. It’s
as if the people of Minsk can’t have a good time if you’re
not sitting down. Entrance to nightclubs is often pricier
for a ticket that grants you the privilege of sitting down.
Mingling, however, is better done at the bar or on the
dance floor. Another thing to keep in mind is that Minsk is
a sprawling city. You can’t really bounce from one venue to
another in the same area - so plan your night before you
head out and aim for a specific region. Streets are safe
at night.
Balls
Zhuravinka Bowling Club (Журавинка) B-2,
Kupaly 25 (Купалы 25), tel. 328 69 09. Eight lanes
that go all ultraviolet in the evening, making for some
interesting and illuminating night-time VPL spectacles. If
you don’t want to take the skinheads, go on a Friday night
and meet an interesting collection of mildly tanked-up
expat bowling aficionados and their friends. Zhuravinka
bowling is also notable as having the best swivel-chairs
in the Former Soviet Union. Q Open 13:00 - 03:00.
PJALKX
Bars
Galereya Vin (Галерея вин) B-1, Prospekt Pobe-
diteley 23 (Победителей, 23), tel. 226 63 90/ 226
94 35, diakonie@brm.by. Wine Gallery is actually a wine
shop, but it has a small bar in the back and a handful of
wooden tables where you can enjoy a nice vintage by the
glass. A very civilised alternative to the flashy casinos and
beer gardens that surround it. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Mon
10.00 - 20.00. J
Korchma (Старовиленская корчма) B-2, Staro-
vilenskaya 2 (Старовиленская 2), tel. 289 37 54.
The barman evidently learned customer relations from a
Siberian camp guard, but if you manage to look past this
small contribution to the overall feel-good spirit of Minsk
nightlife, Korchma can be a pleasant place to sip a brew or
two. The restored house on the edge of the Old Town is a cosy
enough venue. Korchma really comes into its own though in
spring and summer when visitors flock here to sit out by the
riverbank and enjoy the magnificent view. QOpen 10:00
- 24:00. JAEB
X-ray (Икс-рей) C-2, Internatsionalnaya 27
(Интернациональная 27), tel. 203 93 55. A fun and
funky sixties-style place with retro furniture, smooth and
groovy music, half decent food, and a big outdoor deck
where people can chill out in summer. We saw a DJ turning
up with mixing kit including a reel-to-reel tape player. Like,
wow, y’now! Despite trying a bit hard with the retro theme
this can be a happening and effervescent kind of place. The
bright coloured furniture means you can get away with wearing
your I-wanna-look-cool sunglasses at night. QOpen 11:00
- 01:00. JEK
www.inyourpocket.com/
clickandbuy
Minsk In Your Pocket
Warm up venues
Drozhzhi Irish pub (Дрожжи Ирландский
паб) D-1, Sverdlova 2 (Свердлова 2), MPloshchad
Lenina (Площадь Ленина), tel. 200 54 56. Every
Eastern European capital has its ‘genuine’ Irish pub,
and in Minsk it’s Drozhzhi. With dark wood booths and a
menu offering pigs ears with peas, it may have gone a bit
overboard on the Irish pub ambience. But it’s a welcome
escape for anyone willing to shell out the extra cost for
a Guiness. Live Irish folk music supposedly happens at
weekends. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. JAE
Kopi Gabana (Копи Габана) G-4, Nezavisi-
mosti 71(Независимости 71), MAkademia Nauk
(Академия наук), tel. 292 02 08. It’s supposed to
be ‘Copacobana’, but the theme is Spanish-village, not
Rio-beach. If you squint really hard, or look at the interior
through the bottom of a beer glass, it can actually appear
a bit like Spanish mountain cottage, or at least like what
a Belarusian imagines a Spanish cottage can look like.
But it’s certainly nothing like a beach. Basically it’s a bar
with a range of pizzas, various meat dishes and sushi.
It’s cheap, often buzzing, and a good, safe and reliable
option. No menus in English. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. NX
Skif Café (Скиф Кафе) B-3, Nezavisimosti
34 (Независимости 34), M Ploschad Pobedi
(Площадь Победы), tel. 284 75 41. Opposite the
apartment where Lee Harvey Oswald used to live, and ad-
jacent to a children’s park. This delightfully wicked, wacky
and ropey little restaurant and bar is a very cool hang-out
with a mad medieval theme. There’s rope, wrought iron,
sackcloth and wood everywhere, and a jaunty knight in
jangly armour watches over it all. The crowd is young and
hip and the place is so groovy that no one cares that the
food is a bit basic. It’s a great venue for a pre-club snack
and chat. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. JA
T34 Cocktail Bar (Бар Т34) С-2, Krasnoarmeys-
kaya 3 (Красноармейская 3), MOktyabrskaya
(Октябрьская), tel. 289 13 81/. Downstairs from
Dom, T34 is one of the liveliest bars in the city. A young,
savvy crowd packs the place out at weekends so get
there early if you want a table. The cellar-like interior is
themed around tanks (hence the Russian tank model
name): the walls are strewn with photos and little plastic
models of them. Fortunately, the atmosphere here is one
of peace, goodwill and cocktails. A perfect place to start
off the evening. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. JX

Clubs
Alcatra z(Алькатраз) C-2, Nezavisimosti 25
(Независимости 25), MOctyabrskaya (Октябрьская),
tel. 226 06 45. It’s hidden under the trade union palace - go in
the front, turn right and begin your descent into Minsk weirdness.
While it has lost some of its popularity as newer clubs have begun
to seduce the party prisoners away, this place is still respectable
with a good sized dance floor, plenty of seating, and a bunch of
little cell-like nooks for… erm, naughty people. Avoid sitting in the
electric chair if the girls are making you drool or you’re incontinent.
QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PJALEK
Belaya Vezha (Белая Вежа) B-1, prospect Masherova
17(пр.машерова 17), tel. 284 69 22. All aboard with Captain
Sparkle and his gang of cavorting space cadets for a completely
kooky adventure in nightclub nonsense and unrefined fun. It’s
called the ‘white tower’, it’s a bit space-ship, a bit surreal and one
to tell your mates about when you get back to planet normality. As
is the case with most places in Minsk, the quality of your night will
depend on who turns up, but it’s highly likely that your eyes will go
into orbit after a few moments here. QOpen 23.00 - 05.00. The
casino is open round the clock (24 hours a day). The restaurant
is open from 18:00 - 12:00. PJOLKX
Bronx (Бронкс) G-3, prospect Maherova17/1 (en-
trance from Chicherina) (Машерова 17/1), tel. 288
10 61/288 29 58, www.bronx.by. This is the swankiest,
classiest, shiniest, fanciest place in town. Dress nice if you
want to be let in and fit in. Oh - and press the zero button a
few extra times when making the withdrawal from the ATM
before this night out - once you see what’s on offer you’ll want
to make the most of it. A glorious period atmosphere, excel-
lent entertainment and, according to all reports including our
own, the most gorgeous gold diggers in town. QOpen 12:00
- 05:00, Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. PAK
Dankoff Club (Даньков клуб) C-1, Myasnikova 25
(Мясникова 25), MNemiga (Немига), tel. 200 24 09.
We used to have to rely on musty old dumps to provide the
quintessential Minsk wacky factor. Now this shiny and glitzy
new venue provides unimaginable silliness in a big tarted-up
house. We think it involves a casino, some kind of restaurant
and some naughty diversions, but to be honest we’re not
sure whether they’re trying to sell outrageous gilded mirrors,
children in animal suits, food or girls with no clothes on. If you
work it out, let us know. QOpen , Fri, Sat 09:00 - 05:00.
Round the clock PJOBKXS
Goodwin (Гудвин) C-2, prospect Nezavisimosti 19
(Независимости 19), MOktyabrskaya (Октябрьская),
tel. 226 13 06. A bit of a daggy restaurant by day and early
evening, but it slumps into a kind of gritty-groovy nightclub
mode after midnight. There’s a small dance floor and stage
which quickly becomes packed with mildly inebreiated happy
locals with few pretentions and few inhibitions. Get in among
them and, provided you don’t have any snobbish tendencies,
you’re bound to enjoy the evening. Friendly English-speaking
staff are a bonus. QOpen 12:00 - 05.00. JAEK
Madison (Медисон) G-2, Timiryazeva 9 (Тимирязева
9), tel. 206 19 10, www.madisonclub.by. Say hello to the
catfish (and other bottom feeders) on your way in and enter
a nightclub with mirrored poles, a glowing dance floor, fancy
lighting and occasional sweaty, cheesy shows. They crank out
pop in one of the most up-to-date nightclub environments in
town, even though the dance floor is too small. Reasonable
drink prices, slick young things and one of the better nightclub
options in town. QOpen 13:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 09.00
- 06.00. Closed Mon. AK
Nightlife 23
Max Show (Макс Шоу) G-5, Nezavisimosti 73
(Независимости 73), MAkademia Nauk (Академия
наук), tel. 232 00 38/ 237 38 05. This round, blue and
popular club in the Oktyabr Cinema puts particular emphasis
on its erotic show programmes - meaning go-go dancers in
various states of nakedness take to the stage just about
every night. In a surprising display of egalitarianism, it also has
a male striptease some nights. Check the schedule ahead of
time to see whether it’ll be a Boris or a Natasha flapping their
privates in your face. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. AK
Night Star (Найт Стар) D-1, Sverdlova 2 (Свердлова
2), tel. 200 11 90. A predictable yet solid nightclub with a
big square dance floor flanked by various seating and mingling
areas and three bars. It probably has the best dance floor-
to-seating ratio in town. The upstairs balcony bit is reserved
for those who paid extra for VIP treatment. There’s a bit of a
dark backstage theme to the place with what looks like set
builders’ scaffolding all over the place but, thankfully, no road-
ies or blokes saying ‘check, one choo’ all the time. Attracts a
mixed crowd, up to early 30s it seems, for all-in fun. QOpen
22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue. AK
O v e r t i m e ( О в е р т а й м ) B - 1 , Po b e d i t e l e y 4
(Победителей 4) (Palace of Spor ts), MNemiga
(Немига), tel. 203 02 24. A big sports-themed hall with
mediocre facilities has somehow managed to become a hip
and happening nightspots. Really, there’s no accounting for
taste. Most of the floor space is given over to restaurant-style
seating, with blue plastic swivelling egg-cups accommodating
some of the prettiest bottoms in town. There’s a small tile
dance floor with not much in the way of lighting that quickly
gets packed. Bar staff keep the crowd amused by juggling
and dropping bottles. Wannabe thugs - being a real thug is
not allowed in Belarus—keep their ape ambitions alive with
an arcade style punching bag in the foyer. Shabby, popular
and fun. QOpen 18.00 - 06.00. JAK
R-club (Р-клуб) G-5, Surganova 26 (Сурганова 26),
tel. 292 80 71. Formerly the rather sleazy Yula, the renamed
R-club is a rather more clubby affair with trance parties, live
music and the occasional freak show. God knows what the ‘R’
stands for. Raunchy, raucous, ridiculous - it all depends what
night you happen to go there on. It’s certainly lively. QOpen
20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. AK
Reaktor (Реактор) G-4, Very Khoruzhey 29 (Веры
Хоружей 29), tel. 288 61 60/ 286 72 32, www.reaktor-
club.com. On with the tinfoil undies and fallout-proof shades!
It’s the best nuke-themed disco this side of the exclusion
zone. Legend holds that there’s actually a reactor in here
somewhere (we don’t recommend looking for it), which gave
rise to all the cool, radiation-inspired décor. Don’t worry too
much about the dosage though, the pulsing music here will
make you sterile first. Reactor is mainly filled with teenagers
wearing sunglasses bumping into staff who are far from
cuddly. You might even find your very own miss nuclear waist
here. QOpen 23:30 - 06:00. LK
We s t w o r l d C l u b A - 1 , S t o r o z h e v s k a y a 1 5 a
(Сторожовская, 15), tel. 293 17 98/ 222 17 17. Huge,
sleazy and good for a laugh, Westworld is the place where
apathy and recklessness meet for tequila shots. Locals have
dubbed it ‘Shayba’ (‘hockey puck’), a fitting description of
this riverside building attached to the hotel Belarus. There’s
something for everyone here: girls in miniskirts wiggle around
the dance floor while being shot with lasers, foreign men with
moustaches stare intently at the prostitutes lingering at the bar
while everyone else gets lost in the sheer absurdity of the whole
scene. QOpen 13:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon.OAEK
July 2008 - July 2009
24 What to see
Be prepared to be blown away by some of Minsk’s extravagant buildings.
Grandiose Soviet-era architecture, some magnificent
cathedrals, and an awe-inspiring sense of space are the
essence of the Minsk tableau. Truly historic sights are
hard to find - the city was almost flattened during World
War II. Visit museums to get a glimpse of the Minsk of old.
Essential Minsk
Stalinist city centre If there’s one defining feature of
Minsk, it’s the funky, imposing, Stalin-era architectural en-
semble that stretches through the downtown area. To see
the best bits, start from the mostly pre-war Independence
Square (Ploschad Nezavisimosti) with its Government House
(1934), statue of Lenin, and Belarusian State University
building. A swanky new multi-level shopping centre is also
located beneath the square. Then head down Prospekt
Nezavisimosti (formerly Prospekt Fransiska Skoriny) to see
some 1940s gems including the Main Post Office (1953) and
GUM Department Store (1951). Continue to October Square
(Oktyabrskaya Ploschad), where you’ll be dazzled by the Trade
Unions Palace of Culture (1954), now home to a nightclub, and
the more modern Museum of the Great Patriotic War. Buildings
near the train station are equally impressive, particularly the
twin ‘City Gates’ (pictured above).
Svisloch river It’s 327km long, it’s polluted, and it flows
through Minsk. Beyond those basics though, the Svisloch is
the romantic heart of the city and the setting for many a pic-
ture postcard. In summer, a stroll along its banks, particulaly
near the Old Town or opposite, is almost a legal requirement
for starry-eyed couples. In winter, after the dubious ducks
flee and the surface freezes, locals poke holes through the
ice and pull out God knows what.
Minsk In Your Pocket
Old Town А-2, west bank of river, between Bogdanovi-
cha and Starovilenskaya (между ул. Богдановича и ул.
Старовиленская).
The more official name
of this quaint, ri ver-
side area is Troitskoe
Predmesti ye (Trini t y
suburb), but mostly it’s
referred to as the ‘so-
called Old Town’ be-
cause it’s not really old
and it’s not much of a
town. Though the area
itself is indeed historic
(the site of settlements
that go back to the 12th Century) this small collection of
cobblestoned streets and buildings you see now is actually
a 1980s recreation of the area’s 19th-century look that was
unceremoniously obliterated during the war. Still, it’s worth a
visit and makes a nice break from the imposing architecture
on the opposite side of the river. If you want to see some
more authentic, pre-20th-Century houses, duck behind
the concrete towers on Nemiga and make your way down
Rakovskaya street. J
Island of Tears B-2, On the Svisloch, near Storozhevs-
kaya, MNemiga (Немига ). A small footbridge leads
from the Old Town to the Island of Tears, a memorial set
up in 1988 to commemorate Belarusian soldiers who died
in the USSR’s disastrous, 9-year war in Afghanistan (1979-
1988). The centrepiece of the memorial is the chapel, with
haunting figures of grieving mothers, sisters and widows
at its base. A nearby fountain features the boy-like figure

of an angel, rigged up to cry teardrops. You may notice
(if you happen to be looking) that a certain part of his
anatomy is shinier than the rest. This is explained by the
Belarusian tradition of newlyweds visiting war memorials
on their wedding day, and a modern folk belief that if the
bride gropes this poor young lad’s privates, she’ll be guar-
anteed children. J
Cathedral of the Holy Spirit С-2, Kirila i Mefodiya 3
(Кирилла и Мефодия
3). On e of th e m os t
instantl y recognisable
symbols of Minsk is this
magnificent, gleaming,
two-towered Or thodox
cathedral in the hear t
of the downtown area.
Built in 1642 to ser ve
B er na din e nun s, t h e
convent`s consecration
was delayed for 40 years
because of the Musco-
vite invasions. In 1741
the original structure was
damaged by fire but later
reconstructed. The con-
vent was liquidated in 1852 and the building given to the
Russian church for use as a monastery - but half a century
later it was closed altogether by the Bolsheviks. Today after
renovations, the church is an essential stop. J
Gorky Park (Парк Горького) along Nezavisimosti,
between Yanki Kupali and Frunze (ул.Независимости).
The city’s oldest park is still its most popular green area (ex-
cept when it’s covered with snow). Visitors stroll around the
pathways eating sticky candy and spending their money on
carnival rides. The biggest attraction is the enormous Ferris
Wheel, with its wisely closed cabins (think of winter) and views
of the city. It was installed in 2003, replacing the frighteningly
decrepit one that used to stand here.
Church of St. Simon and Helena D-1, Sovetskaya 15
(Советская 15), MPloschad Nezavisimosti (Площадь
Независимости), tel.
220 44 15. Bet ter
k n o wn simpl y as t h e
‘Red Church’, the city’s
b e s t-k n o wn Ca t h oli c
church was buil t by a
n obl e Polish famil y in
1908-1910 up on t h e
premature death of their
two children, Simeon and
Elena. The two smaller
towers are named after
the children, while the
larger one represen ts
the grief of the parents.
Wh en th e B ol sh eviks
c a m e t o p o w e r, t h e
church became a cinema
then a film studio, and later became a popular meeting
place for the opposition in the 1980s. Now once again used
for its original purpose, the building with its distinctive red
tower is a nice, historic touch near the rapidly developing
Independence Square. The bronze statue in front of the
church represents Archangel Mikhail giving a nasty dragon
a right, good poke with a pointed stick. Mikhail is the saintly
protector of Belarus - so behave yourself, lest the pointed
stick be pointed at you. J
What to see 25
October Square C-2, Oktyabrskaya Square, next
to Museum of Great Patriotic War, MOktyabrskaya
(Октябрьская). This square was a bit of a marketplace
and fairground until the first half of the 19th century, when
all the traders, jugglers and people with performing bears
got shoved aside to make way for this yawning expanse.
The square is the most central in Minsk. A little pyramid
of Portuguese granite marks the zero-point from which all
measurements are based. Of course, October Square is
most well-known for being the scene of celebrations, public
events, demonstrations and protests. In the 1950s it was
home to a 10m statue of Stalin. In winter, the square can
become very pretty when a giant ice-skating rink is set
up here. Those with an archaeological disposition may be
interested to know that well preserved mammoth skeletons
were discovered beneath the square when the Metro system
was being excavated. J
Victory Square (Ploshad Pobedy) B-3, Crossroads
of Nezavisimosti and
Zakharava(перекресток
ул. Независимости и
Захарова), M Plos-
chad Pobedi (Площадь
Победы). A huge, round
‘square’ right in the middle
of d own town’s busi es t
street, Victory Square is
proof that when it came to
World War II monuments,
nobody ever matched the
USSR. The monument, with
its star-topped spire and
eternal flame, was originally
installed in 1954. An under-
ground passage circling its foundation, and an underground
‘Victory Hall’ were added in 1985. Don’t miss the bas-relief on
the base of the spire, or the one in the Victory Hall that lists
the names of 566 soldiers who were posthumously awarded
the Star of the Hero of the Soviet Union. J
Churches
Minsk’s two most famous churches are listed under
‘Essential Minsk’. Readers interested in more churches
should check out the ones below:
Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul H-1, Rakovskaya
4 (Раковская 4), MNemiga (Немига). Built in 1613,
the ‘yellow church’ is the oldest surviving church in Minsk.
Though Orthodox, it was looted in 1707 by Peter the Great`s
Cossacks. The building was closed by the Bolsheviks at the
beginning after the October revolution, reopened by the
Nazis, closed again by the Soviets in 1944 and reopened
once more in 1992.
Maryinsky Cathedral С-2, Svobody 9 (Свободы9).
This Roman Catholic cathedral survived all the century’s
wars, but in the 1950s its two towers were knocked down
and a Stalinist facade thrown over the front. The twin towers
have since been restored, with copper domes sparkling more
impressively than the Holy Ghost across the road. J
St. Aleksander Nevsky’s Church H-4, Kozlova 11
(Козлова 11). A splendid little red brick affair with two
golden onion domes. It was built in 1898 to commemorate
the victory of the tsar’s armies over the Turks, closed by
the Bolsheviks, reopened by the Nazis, then closed by the
Soviets. During the war, a bomb crashed through the roof and
landed in front of the altar, but did not explode.
July 2008 - July 2009
26 What to see
Museums
Ancient Belarusian Culture Museum G-5, Surganova
1/2 (Сурганова 1/2), tel. 284 27 32/ 284 24 97.
Archaeology and ethnology fans will wet themselves at
the prospect of seeing the collection of folk garments here,
not to mention the remains of an ancient boat dug up a
few years ago by a forester from the silt of the river Sozh.
Unfortunately for couples and loners, they only accept of
groups of 20 or more. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Admission: free.
Fire Museum C-5, Gorodskoy Val, 12(Городской
Вал,12), tel. 294 61 22. The fascinating history of Minsk’s
fire brigade, with tours conducted by grinning firemen. Visits
must be booked in advance, and keep in mind that tours are
in Russian language only. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
First Congress of the Russian Social-Democratic
Workers’ Party Museum B-3, Nezavisimosti 31a
(Независимости, 31а), tel. 290 68 47. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Wed. J
Great Patriotic War Museum С-2, Nezavisimosti 25a
(Независимости 25а), tel. 227 56 11. To truly under-
stand the profound effect World War II had on this nation’s
history - and continues to have on the national psyche - a visit
to this sombre museum is a must. Elaborate displays on its
three floors are captioned only in Russian (no English excur-
sion currently available), but you don’t need a translator to
understand the large dioramas of Nazi concentration camps
or the disturbing photos of people being hanged in Minsk
parks. To round out your visit, be sure to check out the vintage
tanks and planes parked behind the building. QOpen 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 5,000BYR. J
Literary History Museum B-2, Bogdanovicha 15
(Богдановича 15), tel. 233 99 32. Belarusian prose,
including repressed works from the 1920s and 30s, is the
focus of this museum, where school children are herded in by
their teachers. If you don’t speak the lingo, you might as well
skip this one. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. J
Jewish Minsk
At the beginning of the 20th Century over 50% of the
populations of Minsk, Grodno, Mogilev and Vitebsk
were Jewish (at the time 98% of Belarusians lived in
the countryside). Today, Jews make up just 1% of the
national population.
Israeli Cultural Centre H - 5, Uralskaya 3
(Уральская 3), tel. 230 18 74, merkaz@open.by.
QOpen 11.00 - 17.00. Closed Fri.
Jewish Memorial G-2, Zaslavskaya (Заславская).
This sculpture representing a group of people descend-
ing a slope commemorates some 5,000 Jews from the
surrounding ghettos who were led into this pit, shot, and
buried - some still alive - in 1942.
Synagogue A-3, Kropotkina 22 (Кропоткина 22),
tel. 334 22 73. J
www.inyourpocket.com
Minsk In Your Pocket
Maksim Bogdanovich Literature Museum.
Maksim Bogdanovich Literature Museum B-2,
Bogdanovicha 7a (Богдановича 7а), tel. 234 13 57.
You won’t exactly have to fight your way through mobs of
Maksim Bogdanovich fans trying to get into to this apart-
ment/museum. But then again, you never know. QOpen
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon and Sundays in summer. J
National Art Museum of the Republic of Be-
larus С-2, Lenina 20 (Ленина, 20), MOktyabrskaya
(Октябрьская), tel. 328 68 44/ 227 71 63, www.
artmuseum.by. This splendid museum may be lacking in
some of Belarus’ most famous artists, such as Marc Chagall
and Kazimir Malevich, but there is still plenty to see, including
some wonderful pieces by Chagall’s teacher, Yehuda Pen.
The gallery is divided into a Russian and Belarusian section,
although the latter is easy to miss as it’s tucked away behind
a very inconspicuous door. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Tue. Admission: 15,840BYR. Every last Wednesday of the
month entrance is free. J
National Museum of History and Culture D-2, Karla
Marksa 12 (Карла Маркса 12), tel. 227 43 22. Artefacts
from the history of Belarus, from cave-men to Communism,
are sprinkled throughout this creaky, stuffy museum. Axe-
heads, swords, portraits and even a printing press like the
one Skoriny used. Naturally, there are no explanatory texts
in English. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Admission:
7,000BYR. J
Palace of the Republic С-2, Octob er Square
(Октябрьская), tel. 216 22 44, www.palace.by. A bit
stark and strident in appearance but somehow geometrically
grand. The ‘palace’ is really a theatre, concert hall and fuction
centre, and hosts a variety of performances, symposiums,
conferences and so on. It has some pretty whizz-bang techno
wizardry inside, including a stage made up of a network of
platforms that can be independantly raised or lowered and
can change the whole configuration of the place in a couple of
minutes. So - even if they can’t book any good acts, they can
get the stage to do a little dance all by itself. JLK
 What to see 27

Oddities Animals & Vegetables

National Library not on the map-close to F-6, Nezavisi-
mosti 116, just past Filimonova (Независимости 116), Central Botanical Gardens F-5, Surganova 2a
tel. 229 24 94, http://newbuilding.nacbibl.org.by. Some (Сурганова 2а), tel. 284 14 84. Set up in 1932, this
say it looks like a diamond. We say it looks like the Death Star. 80-hectare garden belonging to the National Academy of
In either case there’s no denying that the collosal, new home Sciences has thousands more plants than you could ever
for the National Library on the city outskirts is an example of sneeze at. The gardens are only open to the public from
the Soviet ‘bigger-is-better’ school of architecture. Worse yet, May - Sep. QOpen 10.00 - 19.00. Closed Mon.
this pet project of Lukashenko’s is partly paid for by money
donated ‘voluntarily’ (meaning not voluntarily) by students
and school children. When completed, it’ll be big enough to
house a whopping 15 million books. The National Library
only has 8 million books in its collection, so there should
be plenty of space left over for magazines, newspapers,
pamphlets, brochures, catalogues - anything that’s made
of paper and has writing on it. QOpen 10.00 - 21.00, Sat,
Sun 10.00 - 18.00.

Minsk State Circus С-3, Nezavisimosti 32

(Независимости 32), tel. 226 10 08/ 227 22 45.
Check your political correctness at the door and revel
in the spectacle of midget acrobats, dubiously trained
bears and other leftovers from the 19th Century. The
impressive building itself, dating to 1958, shows how
much this was a staple of Soviet-era distraction. The
Arguably the oddest-looking national library in the world. circus was being renovated at the time of writing, but
will temporarily give performances out of a tent near
the National Library every Wed, Fri, Sat and Sun. Tickets
Out of Town can purchased as normal at the Minsk State Circus
Kurgan Slavy Memorial Complex (Mount of box office. Q Box office open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00
Glory) 30km north of - 18:00, Summer 10:00 - 20:00. Admission: 10,000
Minsk, at junction of - 20,000BYR. J
Moscow and Minsk
II highways. This 70m
high conical hill topped by
a spiky monument was
constructed in 1969 to
commemorate the spot
where four Soviet armies
joined up before going
on to drive out the Nazis
near the end of World
War II. Now it’s a popular
place to bring kids, who love to climb on the row of old tanks
parked at the bottom.

Museum of Folk Architecture B-2, Main office:

Chicherina 1, village: Pashkevich 3, Ozertso, 15km
southwest of the Brest highway (Чичерина 1), tel. 209
41 63. A charming, tiny village situated on the picturesque
banks of the river Ptich. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00. J
Stalin’s line (Линия Сталина) 31km west of Minsk
along the Molodechno road, 6km from Zaslavl, tel. 503
20 22, www.stalin-line.by. Stalin’s Line is a historical
museum complex located in a field some 30km from Minsk
where enthusiastic historians dressed in military uniforms
explain the Great Patriotic War. At present tours are in Rus-
sian but you can bring your own English translator. Call ahead
to arrange an excursion. A fascinating insight into Minsk’s
history. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission:
24, 000BYR. Tour: 30,000BYR
Minsk Zoo not on the map-close to J-6, Tashkents-
kaya 40, Chizhovka district (Ташкенская 40), tel.
240 23 97. Like a Soviet gulag, but for animals. QOpen
10:00 - 17:00, Fri 10:00 - 18:00.
Museum of Nature D-2, Karla Marksa 12 (Карла
Маркса 12), tel. 206 69 56. Located in the bowels
of the Museum of History and Culture (see Museums),
this small museum is the most exciting place in town to
see dusty mammoth bones and stuffed bears. Don’t
miss the institution’s pride and joy - a nice pile of pota-
toes. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission:
7,000BYR.

July 2008 - July 2009

28 Getting around
Train schedule
From Minsk To Minsk
Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.
08:25 11:49 ADLER 15:551 06:44
19:19 11:49
1
ADLER 15:55 19:17
19:191 11:12 ANAPA 17:10 06:44
05:10 07:33 BARANOVICHI 06:58 08:37
08:32 10:18 BARANOVICHI 18:55 10:37
13:33 15:18 BARANOVICHI 14:38 16:40
17:29 19:14 BARANOVICHI 17:05 19:28
23:32 01:35 BARANOVICHI 20:00 22:38
15:29 09:01 BERLIN 15:22 10:46
06:25 10:35 BREST 06:21 10:37
Follow the yellow brick. 08:32 12:39 BREST 11:57 16:40
13:33 17:56 BREST 14:10 18:31
17:29 21:50 BREST 17:40 22:03
Public transport 20:40 00:29
22:48 09:48
BREST
BREST
19:42 23:42
21:52 03:28
Metro: Two lines cover central Minsk. Purple plastic 23:501 04:09 EUPATORIA
tokens costing 600BYR are sold from booths inside metro 20:121 01:58 FEODOSIA 10:291 18:40
stations. Drop those toy tokens into the slot machine- 15:47 11:10 FRANKOVSK 13:09 09:00
like turnstyles. Other tickets, including a 10-day pass for 07:43 12:35 GOMEL 04:38 11:30
10,000BYR, come in the form of plastic, magnetic cards. 14:55 19:32 GOMEL 06:38 11:04
These you either swipe at the turnstyle, or shove in side- 16:29 23:29 GOMEL 13:25 18:40
ways until they pop back out, toaster-like, a second later. 17:15 21:31 GOMEL 15:38 20:46
Trains run every three minutes during rush hour and every 19:191 00:15 GOMEL 18:38 23:10
five off-peak. After 21:00 metros run every seven to ten 20:50 01:56 GOMEL 22:00 05:46
minutes until 01:00. 23:50 05:16 GOMEL 23:581 05:29
02:54 09:18 GRODNO 06:30 12:02
Trams & Buses: Minsk has 12 tram lines, 56 trol- 16:22 22:03 GRODNO 17:20 23:12
leybus routes and over 100 bus routes. All three run from 23:32 06:59 GRODNO 23:41 07:21
05:35 to 00:55 seven days a week. Avoid peak hours 16:02 17:37 IRKUTSK 11:30 12:01
if you value your limbs (08:00 - 10:00, 16:00 - 19:00). 23:43 12:06 KALININGRAD 11:47 22:16
16:29 21:16 KALINKOVITCHI 06:50 11:30
Public transport tickets costing 3600BYR are sold at most 17:15 00:13 KALINKOVITCHI 17:45 23:10
kiosks. Punch them inside the vehicle or risk a fine. 23:00 06:36 KALINKOVITCHI 21:35 05:21
19:19 12:42 KHARKOV 03:08 20:46
22:52 16:43 KHARKOV 13:32 06:44
Trains 11:31 00:01
20:50 08:50
KIEV
KIEV
00:52
18:18
12:56
06:01
Central station (Центральная станция) E-2, Priv- 19:19 11:10 KISLOVODSK 16:53 06:44
okzalnaya 4 (Привокзальная 4). At the brand new Minsk 02:24 15:19 LVOV 23:12 12:40
train station, tickets to domestic destinations are sold in the 22:522 07:10 MARIUPOL 12:112 20:46
two narrow halls that flank the main entrance. International 15:30 19:23 MOGUILEV 07:25 10:51
tickets, for some reason, are still sold in the old train station 00:02 10:59 MOSCOW 10:23 20:06
building (open 09:00 - 20:00), to the right as you face the new 03:01 12:49 MOSCOW 14:06 23:21
building. Call 213 17 19 for information about international 03:43 16:23 MOSCOW 15:42 00:53
trains, or 105 for any train-related enquiries. When looking 08:51 19:54 MOSCOW 16:54 02:32
for your train, keep in mind that there are platform numbers 18:28 06:00 MOSCOW 18:20 02:58
and track numbers, so there could be two trains on the same 21:18 08:05 MOSCOW 19:20 03:13
platform. Check the signs carefully if you don’t want to end 21:55 08:46 MOSCOW 19:37 06:35
up in Izhevsk. 22:03 09:05 MOSCOW 21:09 05:49
International ticket office J-2, Voronyanskogo 6 22:18 09:20 MOSCOW 22:25 07:29
(Воронянского 6), tel. 213 17 19. Q Open 09:00 22:37 09:27 MOSCOW 22:55 08:17
- 20:00. 23:32 10:26 MOSCOW 23:44 08:08
07:54 06:18 MURMANSK 20:04 15:20
16:02 10:40 NOVOSIBIRSK 19:16 12:01
11:31 10:39 ODESSA 14:30 12:56
Taxi 07:059 09:57 ORSHA
08:51 11:36 ORSHA 06:20 09:10
Taxis are a fairly cheap, reliable way to get around Minsk, 17:40 20:13 ORSHA 17:07 20:06
as can be expected though, there are a lot of less-than- 18:28 21:31 ORSHA 20:44 23:21
honest operators out there, epsecially those which lurk 21:18 23:44 ORSHA 22:21 00:53
outside hotels and train stations. To avoid hassle, look 21:55 00:18 ORSHA 23:59 02:32
for either the banana-yellow state-run taxis, or those run 22:18 00:50 ORSHA
by one of the reliable, new private competitors - 107, 152, 23:32 02:06 ORSHA
157 or 184. These numbers not only show the company 17:06 23:03 POLOTSK 00:55 08:05
affiliation, they’re also the short phone numbers of the 08:24 05:03 PRAGUE 22:56 21:02
dispatchers, so use them if you want to order by phone. 01:20 10:55 SARATOV 11:29 14:42
The going rate per kilometre is around 1,100BYR. 01:36 15:19 SARATOV 20:31 04:33

Minsk In Your Pocket

 Getting around 29

Train schedule continued International bus schedule

From Minsk To Minsk From Minsk To Minsk
Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr. Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.
09:101 15:46 SIMFEROPOL 21:541 05:29 07:00 16:30 M
(4)AAHEN(6,7) 13:00 23:00
22:08 05:46
2
SIMFEROPOL 09:25 17:23
2
07:00 19:30 (3,4)ANTWERPEN(6,7) 10:00 23:00
M

12:57 05:34 ST.PETERSBURG 12:45 01:58 12:00 20:00 V

(3)BELOSTOK 02:40 10:30
17:40 08:52 ST.PETERSBURG 15:00 03:55 13:00 20:00 V
(6)BELOSTOK
18:48 09:40 ST.PETERSBURG 19:08 09:10 22:00 05:45 (1,2,5,6)BELOSTOK(4,5) 15:20 00:45
M

19:45 00:45 VILNIUS 20:00 00:30 12:00 08:00 E(3)BERLIN(3,6) 11:00 09:00
12:57 17:44 VITEBSK 04:28 09:10 07:00 06:30 M(3,4)BERLIN(6,7) 23:55 23:00
17:40 21:59 VITEBSK 22:25 04:39 12:00 09:30 M(3,4)BERLIN(5,6) 21:00 19:00
18:48 22:58 VITEBSK 23:44 03:55 18:00 20:00 M(2,3,5,6)BRANDERBURG
01:20 18:34 VOLGOGRAD 12:38 04:33 M
BRANDERBURG(3,4,6,7) 10:00 09:00
03:23 11:33 WARSAW 12:08 23:42 07:00 18:30 M(3,4)BRUSSELS(6,7) 11:00 23:00
06:25 06:11 WARSAW 16:35 12:51 07:00 15:10 (3,4)COLOGNE(6,7) 14:30 23:00
M

20:40 06:12 WARSAW 20:37 08:01 11:30 23:00 E(5,6)COLOGNE(1,7) 20:00 23:00
06:00 21:40 M(2)DORTMUND(6,7,3,4) 03:00 09:00
1
Even days, 2 Odd days. 16:00 21:40 M(2)DORTMUND(3,6) 05:00 09:00
08:00 21:40 M
(5)DORTMUND
07:00 07:00 M(3,4)DRESDEN(6,7) 23:55 23:00
Buses 06:00 22:40 M(2)DUISBURG(3,4) 02:00 09:00
08:00 22:40 M(5)DUISBURG(6,7) 02:00 09:00
Moscovsky bus station (Московский 11:30 22:30 E(5,6)DUSSELDORF(1,7) 21:00 23:00
автовокзал) F-6, Filimonova 63 (Филимонова 63), 06:00 23:20 E(2)DUSSELDORF(3,4) 06:45 13:00
MVostok (Восток), tel. 8 902 101 41 14. This rather 08:00 23:20 M(5)DUSSELDORF(6,7) 01:30 09:00
subdued Soviet-era station has all the basic amenities, as 11:30 15:00 E(5,6)HANNOVER(1) 02:00 23:00
well as a hairdresser’s juyst in case you want to make a good 07:00 10:00 M(3,4)HANNOVER(6,7) 20:00 23:00
impression on someone at the other end of your bus journey. 18:00 13:10 E(1,7)IVANOVO(5,6) 17:30 10:30
QOpen 05.00 - 23.00. 07:20 14:10 E
KAUNAS 16:00 22:25
Vostok bus station (Восточный вокзал) J-5, 16:00 21:55 E
KAUNAS 07:00 12:50
Vaneyeva 34 (Ванеева 34), tel. 8 902 101 41 14. 18:00 00:35 E
KAUNAS 03:35 10:00
Tickets for destinations within Belarus are sold at the first 21:00 00:35 E
KAUNAS 19:45 05:50
floor ticket booths. For tickets to cities in Western Europe, 12:00 06:30 (6,7)KRAKOW(5,6) 16:45 10:30
E

12:00 01:40 E(3,4,6,7)LODZ(5,6) 21:20 10:30

look for the ‘Mizhnarodnaya Kasa’, window N°11. There’s a 07:00 08:30 M(3,4)MAGDEBURG(6,7) 22:15 23:00
small café on the top floor to keep you caffinated while you 09:00 21:00 M(4,7)MOSCOW(2,5) 08:00 17:00
wait. QOpen 05:30 - 23:00. 18:15 08:00 M(1,7)MOSCOW(5,6) 23:20 10:15
12:00 18:30 E(3,4)MUNICH(5,6) 13:00 19:00
07:00 23:30 M(3,4)PARIS(6,7) 07:30 23:00
Local bus schedule 12:00 11:00 E(3,4)PRAGUE(5,6) 12:00 10:30
13:00 11:00 E(6,7)PRAGUE(1,2) 12:00 10:30
Brest 11:30 11:30 E(5,6)POTSDAM(1) 07:00 23:00
E: 08:50, 09:50, 11:40, 14:05, 14:501-5, 16:30, 17:401,4-7, 08:20 18:00 E
(4-7)RIGA(4-7) 18:00 08:20
17:413,7. 17:00 09:40 MST.PETERSBURG 18:00 08:40
07:00 17:30 (3,4)STRASBOURG(6,7) 14:30 23:00
M
Gomel 07:00 14:45 M(4,6)STUTTGART(6,7) 17:30 23:00
E: 07:20, 08:00, 09:306, 10:00, 11:30, 12:302-6, 14:10, 01:30 05:30 E(2-6)VILNIUS(1-5) 17:00 21:00
16:001,4-7, 18:00, 19:001,4-7, 19:401-3. 07:20 11:50 E
VILNIUS 16:00 20:11
M: 09:00 08:20 12:12 E(4-7)VILNIUS(1-5) 14:00 18:20
11:00 15:12 E
VILNIUS 15:50 20:05
Grodno 18:10 20:20 E
VILNIUS 05:50 10:00
E:05:55, 06:20, 06:55, 07:20, 08:05, 08:20, 08:40, 21:00 01:40 E
VILNIUS 01:20 05:50
08:50 6,7, 09:051-5, 10:00, 12:15 6,7, 12:55 5-7, 15:00, 12:00 05:00 E(3,4)VROTSLAV(1,2) 18:10 10:30
15:301,3, 22:351,5. 13:00 05:00 E(6,7)VROTSLAV(5,6) 18:10 10:30
M:06:20, 06:50, 07:20, 07:50, 08:30, 08:405-7, 09:10, 12:00 23:20 V(3,6) WARSAW(1,2) 13:00 00:40
09:30, 09:50, 10:106,7, 10:40, 11:10, 11:50, 12:001,2,4-6, 17:40 05:00 C(1,7)WARSAW(5,6) 23:20 10:30
12:406,7, 12:501-5, 13:205-7, 13:40, 14:20, 14:30, 14:50, WARSAW(1,2) 23:20 10:30
15:10, 15:307, 16:001-5, 16:20, 16:30, 16:405,7, 17:00,
17:201,4-7, 17:501-5,7, 18:20, 18:40, 19:001-5,7, 19:401,3-7, Timetable key: Departs Minsk. Arrives destination. Days of
20:302,4, 20:301,3,5-7. the week (1=Monday). Departs destination. Arrives Minsk.

Vitebsk V – Eastern (Восточный вокзал)

E: 06:305-7, 07:20, 09:20 M – Moscovsky bus station
M: 07:00, 07:50, 08:30, 09:50, 11:00, 12:004-7, 13:00
14:00, 14:40, 15:40, 16:00, 17:001-5, 18:30.
Departs Minsk. Arrives destination. Days of the week (1=Monday).
Bus station: www.inyourpocket.com/
E – Eastern (Восточный вокзал)
M – Moscovsky bus station clickandbuy

July 2008 - July 2009

30 Getting around
Minsk motorcycles
Minsk isn’t just a city. It’s also a brand of motorcycle. And
not just any bike brand, but one that carries with it a veri-
table aura of history,
legend, kudos, cringe,
rumour and a kind of
blue oily smoke.
If the stories are to
be believed, Minsk
motorcycles—noisy
125cc two-stroke,
single-cylinder
bangers made right
here in Minsk—are
the vehicle of choice
of al-Queda; back-
packers, wacky tour-
ists and farmers in
Vietnam; and anyone wanting a bullet-proof vehicle that
can be maintained using only chewing gum, beer cans
and bits of fuzzy string.
The bikes have a simple, unpretentious honesty that is
refreshing in a time of butterfly-flange carburettor flux-
timing two-step-shuffle horizontally-imposed distribu-
tor-dictator-power Quintrex-complex computer regulator
gaskets and self-lubricating heated airbags. (We may
have some of the technical details there a bit wrong but
the point remains: Minsk motorcycles are appealing for
their simplicity in a world of complexity. On a Minsk, a
key is a luxury.)
The Motovelo company, which churns out the Minsk
motorcycles as well as various pushbikes and exercise
bikes, was established in November 1945. The origins
of the Minsk bike, however, extend back a little further.
The basic design stemmed from an old German pre-war
bike, the RT 125. The design also inspired bikes such
as the BSA Bantam, the Harley-Davidson ‘Hummer’
and the Yamaha YA-1. While the Soviets certainly didn’t
like the Nazis, they did take a liking to their motorbikes
– so much so that a factory was established to produce
them in Minsk.
Of course various updates and tweaks have brought
the old design along a bit, but it’s hardly what you’d
call up-to-date. The fundamental simplicity and easy-
to-maintain nature of the Minsk bikes remains intact.
Most of the production of the bikes—around 90 per
cent—are exported, with Asian countries taking the
bulk. Apparently they are well suited to rough conditions,
rickety bridges, river crossings and dodging goats on
dirt roads. That’s why you’ll find a Minsk Motorcycle
Club in Vietnam. There’s even an adventure expedition
company, Explore Indochina, that runs tours exclusively
on Minsk motorcycles. According to their website, Minsk
bikes have been seen “hauling buffaloes, horses, up to
seven people, refrigerators, fully operational fish tanks
and even a three-piece lounge suite”.
For a little bike manufacturer in an odd little location
like Minsk, Motovelo have created quite a legend with
the Minsk motorcyle.
Explore more:
The Minsk Motorcycle Club of Vietnam:
www.minskclubvietnam.com
Motovelo – Manufacturers of Minsk motorcycles:
www.motovelo.by
Explore Indochina - tours on Minsk motorcycles:
www.exploreindochina.com
Minsk In Your Pocket
Car rental
Europcar Stuokos-Gucevičiaus 9, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel.
+370 5 212 02 07, www.europcar.lt. The Europcar office
in Lithuania can help you with your transfer to and from the
airport in Minsk. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Europcar (Minsk) Hotel Minsk, Nezavisimosti
,11(проспект Независимости,11), tel. 209 90 09,
fax 209 95 98, www.car-rental.europcar.com.
Her t z G-2, Hotel Minsk, Nezavisimosti 11 (
Независимости, 11), MPloschad Nezavisimosti
(Площадь Независимости), tel. 209 90 91. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Lada Avtoprokat not on the map-close to J-2, Serova
1 (Серова 1), tel. mob. + 375 29 694 59 16. QOpen
09.00 - 18.00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Airlines & Airports
Air Baltic B-1, Prospect Pobediteley 19 (Проспект
Победителей, 19), tel. 226 90 43/ 203 50 51, www.
airbaltic.lv. Also in the airport Minsk-2 tel. (+375 17) 279
25 68. Daily from 14.00 till 16.20 QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. J
Austrian Airlines/Swissair (Австрийские
авиалинии) B-3, Pr ospekt Nezavisimosti 38
(Проспект Независимости 38), MPloschad Pobedi
(Площадь Победы), tel. 288 25 35/288 25 55, www.
aua.com. Also in Minsk-2 airport, tel. 279 15 39, 279 15 29.
Open daily from 04:00 till 06:00, 11:00 till 18:00 QOpen
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Aviakassa (Авиакасса) ((+375 17) 227 62 54)
C-3, Karla Marksa 28 (К. Маркса 28). All airline tickets.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 18:00.
Belavia (Белавия) C-1, Nemiga 14 (Немига 14), tel.
210 41 00, info@belavia.by, www.belavia.by. Also in the
airport Minsk-2 tel. 279 10 32 QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 17:00. J
El Al Israeli Airlines C-3, Partisansky Prospect, 6a
(Партизанский проспект, 6а), tel. 211 26 06, www.
elal.co.il. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
LOT B-1, Pr ospect Pob editeley, 7 (Проспект
Победителей, 7), tel. 226 66 28, www.lot.pl. QOpen
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Lufthansa G-4, Prospect Nezavisimosti 56 (Проспект
Независимости 56), tel. 284 71 30, www.lufthansa.
by. Also at Minsk-2, tel. 279 17 45. Daily from 10:00 - 16:30
QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
 Getting around 31

Flight schedule
From Minsk To Minsk
Days Dep. Arr. Destination Days Dep. Arr.
1––4––– 20:30 03:10 ASTANA (B2) until Sep 1
1–––––– 09:30 10:30
––34––– 21:35 03:00 BAKU (B2) –––4––– 04:00 05:45
–––4––– 12:20 17:30 BAKU (B2) until June 26 and from Sep 25 –––4––– 09:00 10:20
––––––7 12:20 17:30 BAKU (B2) July 6 - Sep 14 ––––––7 09:00 10:20
–2–4––– 13:20 14:10 BERLIN (B2) –2–4––– 15:00 17:45
––––––7 18:10 19:00 BERLIN (B2) ––––––7 19:50 22:30
1–––––7 23:30 04:15 EREVAN (B2) 1–––––– 05:15 06:30
––34––– 22:30 03:15 EREVAN (B2) –––4––– 04:15 05:30
––3–––7 12:35 14:00 FRANKFURT(B2) ––3–––7 14:55 18:05
––––5–– 12:35 14:00 FRANKFURT (LH) until Aug 30 ––––5–– 14:55 18:05
1–––––– 12:35 14:00 FRANKFURT (LH) until Sep 1 1–––––– 15:00 18:15
–––4–6– 12:30 13:30 HANNOVER (B2) until Sep 19 –––4–6– 15:05 18:05
–2––5–7 08:30 10:50 ISTANBUL (B2) –2––5–7 11:50 14:10
––––5–– 15:35 17:05 KALININGRAD (B2) ––––5–– 17:50 19:20
–2–––6– 12:20 13:50 KALININGRAD (B2) –2–––6– 14:30 16:00
1–345–7 16:05 17:35 KALININGRAD (B2) 1–345–7 18:25 19:55
1–3–5–7 09:35 10:40 KIEV (B2) 1–3–5–– 13:00 14:05
–2–4–6– 18:45 19:50 KIEV (B2) –2–4–6– 20:40 21:45
––––––7 09:10 10:40 KIEV (B2) ––––––7 11:35 12:40
–––––6– 07:40 11:00 LARNAKA (B2) –––––6– 12:00 15:20
–2––––– 15:25 18:45 LARNAKA (B2) until Sep 30 –2––––– 19:45 23:05
––3–––– 09:55 10:55 LONDON (B2) ––3–––– 11:55 16:50
––––––7 12:10 13:10 LONDON (B2) ––––––7 14:10 19:05
––––5–– 15:30 16:30 LONDON (B2) until Sep 5 ––––5–– 17:30 22:25
1–––––– 10:45 12:05 MANCHESTER (B2) 1–––––– 13:05 18:05
–––4––– 16:10 18:00 MILAN (B2) –––4––– 19:00 22:50
––––––7 07:10 09:00 MILAN (B2) ––––––7 10:00 13:50
–2––––– 16:25 18:15 MILAN (B2) –2––––– 19:15 23:05
1234567 07:00 09:20 MOSCOW (B2) 1234567 10:15 10:35
1234567 09:00 11:20 MOSCOW (B2) 1234567 12:20 12:40
1234567 12:05 14:25 MOSCOW (B2) 1234567 15:20 15:40
1234567 16:35 18:55 MOSCOW (B2) 1234567 22:20 22:40
1234567 19:00 21:20 MOSCOW (B2) 1234567 22:20 22:40
–2––––– 08:20 10:20 PARIS (B2) –2––––– 11:20 15:05
––––5–– 16:20 18:20 PARIS (B2) ––––5–– 19:25 23:10
––––––7 15:30 17:30 PARIS (B2) ––––––7 18:30 22:15
–2–4–6– 08:00 08:45 PRAGUE (OK) –2–4–6– 09:35 12:20
1–3–5–– 15:15 16:05 PRAGUE (OK) 1–3–5–– 11:45 14:30
––––––7 14:50 15:35 PRAGUE (OK) ––––––7 17:25 20:10
1234567 16:20 17:40 RIGA (BT) 1234567 14:30 15:45
1–––5–– 08:40 10:35 ROME (B2) until Sep 8 1–––5–– 11:35 15:20
1–––5–– 08:05 10:00 ROME (B2) until Sep 5 1–––5–– 11:00 14:45
––3–––– 13:55 15:50 ROME (B2) until Sep 10 ––3–––– 16:50 20:35
––––––7 21:30 23:25 SHANNON (B2) 1–––––– 00:25 06:05
SHANNON (B2) until Aug 28 ––––5–– 00:25 06:05
1–––5–– 07:30 09:55 ST. PETERSBOURGH (B2) 1–––5–– 09:45 11:15
––3–––– 07:30 09:55 ST. PETERSBOURGH (B2) ––3–––– 10:45 11:15
1–––5–– 15:10 18:35 SOCHI (B2) 1–––5–– 19:35 21:05
––3–––– 15:10 18:35 SOCHI (B2) until Sep 24 ––3–––– 19:35 21:05
–––––6– 15:10 18:35 SOCHI (B2) until Sep 6 –––––6– 19:35 21:05
1–3–5–– 15:10 17:00 TALLINN (B2) 1–3–5–– 13:00 14:00
––34–6– 23:40 03:35 TBILISI (B2) –––4––7 04:35 06:30
––34–6– 23:40 03:35 TBILISI (B2) ––––5–– 04:35 06:30
––––––7 07:35 11:15 TEL-AVIV (B2) ––––––7 12:15 16:00
–––––67 01:25 05:15 TEL-AVIV (LY) –––––67 19:25 23:15
–23–––– 00:00 03:50 TEL-AVIV (LY) –––––67 19:00 22:55
1234567 05:35 06:30 VIENN (OS) 1234567 20:05 23:00
1234567 17:25 18:30 VIENN (OS) 1234567 13:30 16:25
1–––––– 15:45 15:55 WARSAW (B2) 1–––––– 16:45 18:55
–2–45–7 14:40 14:55 WARSAW (LO) –2–45–7 11:15 13:30
––3–––– 09:05 09:15 WARSAW (B2) ––3–––– 10:45 12:55
–––––6– 13:40 13:50 WARSAW (LO) –––––6– 14:50 16:30

Airline codes: B2 - Belavia, J2 - Azal Azerbaijan Airlines, OK -Czech Airlines, BT - AirBaltic, OS - Austrian Airlines,
LO - LOT Polish Airlines. For details check at airport.by. Valid until Oct 27, 2008, unless indicated.

July 2008 - July 2009

32 Getting around
Metro tidbits
Minsk’s metro may not be as grandiose as Moscow’s
but it is still an attractive example of a major Soviet-era
public transport project. Construction work began on
it in the late 1970s owing to a massive influx of work-
ers which saw the the city’s population soar to over a
million people. The gleaming new metro finally opened
to relieved commuters as an eight-station line on June
30, 1984. It slowly but surely expanded throughout the
1990s with the most recent extension only being com-
pleted in 2007. The metro now has two lines covering 25
stations and there are projects afoot to extend the Mos-
kovskaya line further into the ever-expanding suburbs,
along with a plan to build an entirely new line after 2010.
The stations themselves are rather attractive in their
Soviet way. Some (notably Nyamiha/Nemiga) are deco-
rated with Belarusian national motifs, while others have
some impressive murals on the standard epic socialist
themes. The later stations were a bit more space-age in
appearance. All in all, Minsk’s metro is cheap, efficient
and safe and manages to shunt some 800,000 people
a around a day without so much as a vodka-induced
hiccup. However, the metro was also the scene of a
terrible tragedy in June 1999. A huge crowd of young
people had gathered for a rock concert when a sudden
spring thunderstorm caused more than 1,000 people,
many of whom had been heavily drinking, to run for the
nearby Nyamiha/Nemiga metro station. The stampede
down the marble steps into the metro underpass turned
into a crush which led to the deaths of 53 people, most
of whom were aged between 14 and 18. A moving monu-
ment beside the metro entrance lists the names of all
those who lost their lives in the tragedy.
Minsk In Your Pocket
Minsk-1 J-2, Chkalova 38/2 (Чкалова 38/2), tel. 222
54 76, www.avia.by. Technically it’s an international airport,
but Minsk I only handles a scant few of the flights from CIS
countries and some domestic flights. Find it just 3km from
the central Prospekt Nezavisimosti.
Minsk-2 not on the map-close to F-6, 42km from city
limits, tel. 279 17 30/279 13 00, www.airport.by. A
complete remodelling job in 2005 has failed to erase the
factory look of the city’s main airport, but if you’ve dragged
yourself out here, at least that means you’re leaving the
country. The departure area is on the third floor, where you’ll
also find some dubious souvenir shops, the VIP lounge, and
the CIP (commercially important person) lounge, where for
some unspecified whopping fee, somebody else will take
care of all your paperwork while you wait. The post office on
the same floor sells phone cards and lets you pay to surf
the internet. airBaltic, Lufthansa and Belavia all have offices
here. Registration closes one hour before the flight. If you
don’t want to spring for the expensive taxi ride out here, you
can buy tickets for the airport bus at the Moskovsky Bus
Station, main hall, for under 5,000BYR.
Travel agencies
Alatan Tour (Алатан тур) C-3, Kupaly 21(Купалы
21), tel. 289 14 36, www.alatantour.com. Visas, accomo-
dation, trips. QOpen 09.00 - 18.00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Belarustourist (Беларустурист) B-1, Tanka 30
(Танка 30), tel. 226 94 85. Actually helpful and friendly.
QOpen 08:30 - 17:30, Fri 08:30 - 16:15. Closed Sat, Sun.
Belarus Tour Service I-2, Rozy Luxemburg 89, Of-
fice No 20a (Р.Люксембург 89/20a), tel. 200 56
75, ser vice@welcome.by, w w w.belarustravel.by.
Friendl y, reliable people helping to meet all needs wi th
hotel booking, car rental, guides and other ser vices
during your stay in Belarus. Q Open 09.00 - 18.00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Belorusski Sputnik (Белорусский Спутник) C-3,
Karka Marksa 36 (Карла Маркса 36), tel. 222 30 22/
220 37 47, www.sputnik.by. QOpen 09.00 - 18.00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Blue bird (Голубая птица) B-2, Leningradskaya 5-32
(Ленинградская 5-32), tel. 211 03 54, www.bluebird.
by. QOpen 09.00 - 18.00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Merlintour B-1, Prospect Pobediteley 5 (Проспект
Победителей 5), MNemiga (Немига), tel. 226 97 79/
223 59 06, www.merlintour.com. QOpen 09.00 - 19.00,
Sat 10.00 - 17.00, Sun 10.00 - 14.00.
Smok G-4, Masherova 19 (Машерова 19), tel. 284
69 69, www.smoktravel.com. QOpen 09.00 - 19.00,
Sat, Sun 10.00 - 17.00.
VLP (ВЛП) A-2, Storojovskaia 8 (Сторожевская 8),
tel. 283 23 94, www.vlp.by/. QOpen 10.00 - 19.00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Vneshintourist SP(Внешинтурист СП) B-1, Melni-
kaite 8 (Мельникайте 8), tel. 206 46 56/226 68 91.
Voyajtour (Вояжтур) B-2, Per vomaiskaya 12
(Первомайская 12), tel. 328 54 03, www.vtour.by/.
QOpen 10.00 - 19.00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Travel agencies abroad
Baltics and Beyond 1 Amy Street, Bingley, West
Yorkshire, BD16 4NE, UK, tel. +44 845 094 2125, info@
balticsandbeyond.com, www.balticsandbeyond.com. As
the name suggests, they specialise not just in the Baltics,
but the ‘beyond’ bits - and that means Minsk and other bits
of Belarus, such as Grodno and Brest. They offer a range of
tour options and can provide you with a guide so that you
really get the best out of your stay.
 Mail & Phones 33

 The Minsk
telephone code is +375 17

One look at the rather ‘retro’ look of the city will give you
a clue that Minsk is not exactly at the cutting edge of the
information revolution. Few hotels have LAN or WiFi inter-
net access, or even websites for that matter. On the other
hand, the postal system and phones, including mobile
networks, work fine. Be warned that mobile phone roaming
tarifs can be very pricey: check with your provider before
you go drunkenly calling your friends back home.

Post
Central Post & Telegraph Office D-1, Nezavisimosti
10 (Независимости 10), tel. 226 06 82, www.belpost.
by. Head straight through to the main hall in the back to send
letters, buy postcards and make photocopies. For telephone
and telegraph services, head to the ‘peregovorni punkt’ in hall
1, on the left (open 07:00 - 23:00). On the left is the internet
centre where people queue for cheap online access. QOpen
08:30 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

Express mail
DHL G-4, Brestskaya 18 (Head Office) (Брестская
18), tel. 278 11 08, www.dhl.by. Also they have express
centres at Pobediteley 5, tel. 289 30 68, and XXI Vek Busi-
ness Centre, Nezavisimosti 169, tel. 228 73 60, both open
09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun; and at Central
Post Office, Nezavisimosti 10, tel. 227 25 33. QOpen 08:00
- 19:00. Closed Sun.
EMS D-1, Nezavisimosti 10 (Независимости 10), tel.
222 65 11/227 85 12, www.belpost.by. QOpen 08:30
- 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
FedEx (M&M Militzer & Münch) B-1, Pobediteley
19 (Pobediteley 19), tel. 226 99 09, callcenter@mum.
by, www.mum.by. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00
- 16.00. Closed Sun.
TNT G-5, Platonova 10 (Платонова 10), tel. 294 80
00/284 90 44, info@tnt.by, www.tnt.by. TNT at Minsk-2
airport tel. 279 11 86. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
UPS B-2, Muzykalnyj 3 (Музыкальный 3), tel. 328 55
80, minsk@tut.by, www.ups.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
ISPs
Belarus Yellow Pages , www.b2b.by. Very useful place
for those not speaking Russian at all.
Beltelecom (Белтелеком) С-2, Engelsa 6 (Энгельса
6), tel. 217 10 05, info@main.beltelecom.by, www.
beltelecom.by. Main internet provider in Belarus. QOpen
08:30 - 17:30.
Network Systems С-2, Lеnina 9 (Ленина 9), tel. 283
17 11, info@nsys.by, www.nsys.by. ADSL internet con-
nection, web hosting, web design. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Open Kontact H-2, Kalvariyskaya 17a (Кальварийская
17а), tel. 211 01 21, admin@ok.minsk.by, www.ok.by.
Internet providers and online magazine in Russian www.open.
by. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Mobile phones
BelCel G-4, Zolotaya Gorka 5 (Золотая Горка 5), tel.
282 00 18, www.belcel.by. “Diallog” service providers.
“Hey – I’m just calling to say I’m in an egg”.
Also at Zolotaya Gorka 16, Surganova 476. QOpen 09:00
- 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
MTS GSM F-5, Nezavisimosti 95 (Независимости
95), tel. 290 79 74, info@mts.by, www.mts.by. Rus-
sian-Belorusian GSM company, operating in Belarus and
covering a rather nice part of it. Also at Revoliutsionnaya 24b,
Kalvariyskaya 60. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Ve l c o m G S M B - 1 , M e l n i k a y t e 1 4 ( H e a d
office)(Мельникайте 14), tel. 222 49 01, www.velcom.
by. The first GSM provider in Belarus with a very informative
website. The information number is 229 49 01 for all offices,
or just 411 from mobiles. Also at Kalvariyskaya 4, Nezavisi-
mosty 60, Nezavisimosty 105, Partizansky 12, Varvasheni
73. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Public internet access
Ploshchadka (Площадка) C-1, Nemiga 8 (Немига
8), MNemiga (Немига), tel. 226 42 43. The smaller of
the Ploshchadka venues has 26 terminals. QOpen 09:00
- 23:00. A
Ploshchadka (Площадка) G-4, Nezavisimosti 58/4
(Независимости 58/4), tel. 290 79 74, www.pic.by.
A busy place with 39 machines (1,500-2,600BYR per hour).
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Open 24hrs. A
Soyuz Online С-2, Krasnoarmeiskaya 3, in the Central
House of Officers(Красноармейская 3), tel. 226 02 79,
Info@soyuzonline.by, www.soyuzonline.by. Wow! It’s open
24 hours, they speak English, serve pizza and even let you pay
by credit card! What more do you need? The granddaddy of
Minsk internet cafés has around 60 terminals, including a VIP
hall. Rates depend on the time of day, but are still cheap. A
sure place to bump into people from every corner of Europe.
QOpen 08:00 - 07:00. JA

July 2008 - July 2009

34 Shopping
Minsk - a shopper’s paradise? Hardly. The consumer
market is mostly confined to cheap imports and domesti-
cally produced goods, as well as a few overpriced, luxury
foreign items that arrive by way of Moscow. Still, the aver-
age souvenir hunter or grocery shopper won’t come away
empty handed. Here’s some guidance.
Books
None of the shops we found had a particularly good
selection of books in English. Here are a few you can poke
around if you’re desparate for reading material.
Akademkniga (Академкнига) G-5, Nezavisi-
mosti 72 (Независимости 72), MAkademia Nauk
(Академия Наук), tel. 292 50 43/292 46 52. As part
of the Belarusian Academy of Sciences, this distinguished
store has many interesting books on history, science and art
among other subjects. Unfortunately, there’s little in English,
so it’s mainly of interest to Russian speakers. QOpen 10:00
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Central Book Shop (Knigarnya) (Центральный
книжный магазин) (Книгарня) C-2, Nezavisimos-
ti 19 (Независимости 19), tel. 227 49 18. Centralny
bookshop is the largest bookshop in Minsk and is situated
opposite Podpisniya Izdaniya bookshop. Along with a rather
interesting, if random, selection of English-language novels, it
also has Belarus guidebooks in English, Italian and German. It
also some good postcards of Minsk and stationary.QOpen
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. J
Dom Knigi Svetoch (Светоч Книжный магазин)
B-1, Prospekt Pobediteley 11 (Победителей, 11), tel.
203 34 96. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.J
What to buy
Unfortunately, Belarus doesn’t have much in the way
of exciting or original souvenirs. There are the usual
suspects, such as Russian dolls, linen and lots of tacky
wicker dolls with mad-looking eyes and flimsy folk cos-
tumes. Belarusian chocolate is another option although
it’s hardly subtle-tasting, even by Slavic standards. Vodka
is certainly one of the best souvenir choices because of
its excellent quality. Minskaya Kristall, Berezovoya (made
from birch sap), Belarus Sineokaya and Klenovaya are
all highly recommended. Belavezhskaja is a popular, bit-
ter-tasting herbal liquor that provides a gift alternative to
vodka. There’s a very good English-language book called
Minsk in One Day, available from most book stores,
which outlines in considerable detail a 15-km route that
takes in most of the major sights (although only the
super-fit or pressed-for-time should attempt it). Other
gift ideas include the popular women’s undewear brand
Milavitsa, whose wares were once widely worn all around
the USSR. Some of the better souvenir shops do a good
range of locally-made ceramics and glassware.
Minsk In Your Pocket
Podpisniya Izdanie (Подписные издания) C-2,
Nezavisimosti 14 (Независимости 14), tel. 227 63
61. Travel books. QOpen 10.00 - 19.00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Flowers
A Million Red Roses (Миллион алых роз) C-4,
Nemiga 2 (Немига 2), MNemiga (Немига ), tel. 209
46 46. An excellent little flower shop. Note the price tags,
delicately stapled to the leaves. QOpen 24 hours. J
House of Flowers (Дом Цветов) F-4, Surganova
76 (Сурганова 76), tel. 331 09 72. A grand place with
plenty of delightful smelling flora. The nice ladies who work
here are proud to announce (in Russian) that they are of-
ficial agents of Interflora which means you can have flowers
delivered just about anywhere. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat,
Sun 9:00 - 19:00.
Sandra’s House of Flowers (Сандра Магазин
цветов) G-4, Kolasa 48 (Коласа 48), tel. 262 32 59.
After visiting the Botanical Gardens across the street, pop
next door to this place. It has a good selection of fresh flow-
ers along with compost, seeds and pots. Being Belarus, it
also sells champagne. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00
- 20:00.
Food
Centralny (Центральный) С-2, Nezavisimosti 23
(Независмости 23), MOktyabraskaya (Октябрьская),
tel. 227 88 76. One of the best, most Western-style food
halls in Minsk despite its gloriously Soviet appearance. There
are cafes, bakeries and a liquor store on the ground floor and a
well-stocked supermarket upstairs. Worth a visit even if you’re
not going to buy anything. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. J
Jubileyny-92 (Юбилейный -92) G-2, Zaslavskaya
23/1(Заславская 23/1), tel. 223 04 93. Everything and
more to fill up your basket. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
Kristall (Кристалл) D-3, Oktiabrskaya 15 (Октябрьская
15), tel. 227 14 05. Every second establishment in Minsk
seems to be a blast to the past. This one specializes in Be-
larusian-made vodka, liqeur and cognac among other tipples.
The décor is unchanged in decades, and there’s something
quite magical about the place. Maybe it’s just nostalgia for the
simpler things from childhood, or maybe it’s just secret commie
sympathy. Who knows? These places won’t be around forever.
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. J
Lakomka (Лакомка) C-2, Nezavisimosti 19
(Независимости 19), tel. 227 63 14. Sweets. QOpen
09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. J
Okean (Океан) B-3, Kozlova 2 (Козлова 2), MPlos-
chad Pobedy (Площадь Победы), tel. 284 85 70. If you
dig the pong of fish and like your surroundings 100% stain-
less steel, drop by. Quite extraordinary décor. Well worth the
stench. Cheap fish too. Oh, and if you do get all fish obsessed,
you could do worse than contact Belegus 232 89 97), who
can sell you or rent you a fancy aquarium. J
Panorama (Панорама) A-1, Starazhevskaya 8
(Сторожевская 8), tel. 226 56 12. Mostly gross grocer-
ies. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. J
Preston Market (Престон) G-4, Very Khoruzhey 29
(В.Хоружей 29), tel. 234 41 72. A popular haunt of hungry
expats, selling the best selection of processed food in all Belarus.
Considered one of the best by many, it`s western in style, stock
and, most importantly, attitude. Also at: Varvasheni 77, tel. 234
52 27. Open 09:00 - 21:00, and Skoriny 83, tel. 284 07 08. Open
10:00 - 24:00. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Torti (Торты) H-4, Kozlova 4 (Козлова 4), tel. 284
37 11. Design a cake and have a babushka bake it for you.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

Gifts & Souvenirs
Galereya Mastatstva (Мастацтва Галерея) C-2,
Nezavisimosti 12 (Независимости 12), MPloschad
Nezavisimosti (Площадь Независимости), tel. 227
83 63. Art and artsy souvenirs brought to you by the art
union. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sun. JA
Luvr (Лувр) C-1, Komsomolskaya 13 (Комсомольская
13), tel. 289 11 63. Jewellery, pens and other shiny things
by Cartier, Mont Blanc, Damiani and the like. QOpen 10.00
- 20.00, Sun 11.00 - 18.00. J
Ly a n o k ( Л я н о к ) G - 4 , N e z a v i s i m o s t y 4 8
(Независимости 46), MYakuba Kolasa (Якуба
Коласа), tel. 284 81 44. Gorgeous local flax and linen.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Slavutya Maistry Gallery (Галерея “Славутыя
майстры” Kommunalnaja 6 (Коммунальная 6), tel.
+375 17 283 28 25. A good collection of both grotesquely
ugly and staggeringly beautiful folk art, paintings, amber, large
ceramic candleholders, dried flowers and chiffon scarves.
What’s more, the staff are only too eager to please, whilst
refraining from shoving stuff you really don`t want down
the back of your throat. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun
10.00 - 17.00.
Soyuzpechat (Союз печати) G-4, Nezavisimosti 44
(Независимости 44), MPloschad Pobedi (Площадь
Победы). Buy someone you love a bag of stamps. Philately
will get you everywhere. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00
- 19:00.
Markets & Department stores
Car market (магазин автомобилей) Malinovka
district, southwest of the ring road(микрорайон
Малиновка), tel. 223 05 09. Motor vehicles and the as-
sociated bits that make them tick. QOpen 06:00 - 17:00.
Dinamo Stadium market (Стдион “Динамо”)
D-2, Kirova 8 (Кирова 8), tel. 227 65 62. Shoes, pants,
saucepans and plants. Billions of stalls stretching the entire
circumference of the Dinamo stadium. Beware imitation
Adidas goods and ladies and gentlemen out to relieve you of
your wallet. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
GUM (ГУМ) C-2, Nezavisimosti (Skoriny) 23
(Независимости 23), MOktyabrskaya (Октябрьская),
tel. 227 88 76. Built in 1951, Minsk’s showcase department
store is a must for fans of Stalinist architecture. Otherwise it’s
a fairly dreary shopping experience, full of stalls selling cheap
shampoo, fake leather and those plastic things people use to
beat their rugs. Then again, they could come in handy on the
metro... QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. J
Impuls (Импульс) G-4, Very Horuzhei 2 (Веры
Хоружей 2), MYakuba Kolasa (Якуба Коласа), tel.
209 80 27. This popular indoor clothes market is where most
fashion-conscious young women go to shop. No wonder, since
the clothes are a snip compared to far pricier designer-label
stores. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
Komarovsky market (Комаровский рынок) G-
4, Very Khoruzhey 6 (В.Хоружей 6), MYakuba Kolasa
(Якуба Коласа). Traditional smelly marketplace riddled
with grannies out for a knock-down pig’s head and obliga-
tory sack of spuds. A priceless experience. QOpen 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon.
Kupalovskij market (Купаловский рынок) C-2,
Under Kilometer Zero at Oktiabrskaya metro stop. A
labyrinth of tiny shops and stalls, mostly selling women’s
clothes, although there are a few other places selling house-
hold items, cheap CDs and one little stall selling children’s
toys. There’s also a tiny café hiding in one corner. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00. J
Shopping 35
Roll up for the grand new Stolitsa Shopping Centre.
Minsky Vernisazh (Минский Вернисаж) C-2,
Oktyabrskaya Square, next to Museum of Great Patriotic
War, MOktyabrskaya (Октябрьская). Mainly dolls, folk
art, hats and the like, with a few Soviet military trinkets thrown
in. Not coincidentally situated next to where tour buses stop.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. J
Na Nemige (На Немиге Торговый дом) C-1,
Nemiga 8 (Немига 8), MNemiga (Немига), tel. 220 97
47. An uninspiring department store in vintage Soviet style
surrounded by more interesting new ventures, such as a good
CD shop. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. J
Panorama (Панорама) A-2, Storozhevskaya 8
(Сторожевская 8), tel. 226 15 71. Small, slightly upscale
department store in a magnificent building near hotel Belarus.
Find luxury gifts, a hunting clothing store (selling fleece ar-
ticles and hiking shoes) and an Adidas outlet. QOpen 10:00
- 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. J
Stolitsa Shopping Centre (Подземный торговый
центр “Столица”) D-1, Independence Square
(Площадь Независимости), MPloschad Nezavisimosti
(Площадь Независимости). Minsk’s best shopping
centre is a great place for gift shopping as it has pretty much
everything from clothes to alcohol to souvenirs. It also has
the only place in Minsk where you can watch English films on
a largish screen, although the choice isn’t huge. It’s cheaper
the more people watch the film with you, or else you can
have the screening room all to yourself for about 30,000BYR.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
TSUM (ЦУМ) G-4, Nezavisimosti 54 (Nezavisimosti
54), MYakuba Kolasa (Я. Коласа), tel. 284 21 64.
Several floors of goods from pens to beds. Hardly inspiring,
although quite good fun. Look out for your wallet and note
there’s an ATM on the first floor. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Univermag Belarus (Универмаг Беларусь) J-6,
Zhilunovicha 4 (Жилуновича 4), tel. 245 11 11. An-
other gross collection of everything imaginable for fair prices.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Music
Misteria Zvuka (Мистерия звука) C-1, Nemiga
12 (Немига 12), MNemiga (Немига ), tel. 289 39 30.
The best CD shop in Minsk that has a roof. Large selection
of nicely priced international and local discs. QOpen 10:00
- 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. J
www.inyourpocket.com
July 2008 - July 2009
36 directory
Looking for something very specific? Here’s a quick guide
to the city that goes beyond the obvious.
Banks
Belarusky Narodny Bank G-5, Независимости, 87а,
tel. 280 09 91, www.bnb.by. QOpen 9:00 - 17:30, Fri
9:00 - 16:15. Closed Sat, Sun.
Belarus National Bank С-2, Nezavisimosti 20
(Независимости 20), tel. 227 50 37, www.nbrb.by.
QOpen 9:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J
Belvnesheconombank (Белвнешэкономбанк)
C-2, Myasnikova 32 (Мясникова 32), tel. 209 29 44,
www.bveb.by. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:30.
Closed Sat, Sun. J
Commerzbank Chicherina 21(Чичерина 21), tel. 210
11 19. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
European Bank for Reconstruction and Develop-
ment (EBRD) D-3, Engelsa 34a (Энгельса 34), tel. 210
47 87, www.ebrd.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. J
Prior Bank (Приорбанк) B-3, Very Khoruzhey 31a
(Веры Хоружей 31а), tel. 289 90 87, www.priorbank.
by. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
World Bank B-2, Gertsena 2a (Герцeна 2а), tel. 226
52 84, www.worldbank.org. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. J
Business connections
Belarusian Chamber of Commerce G-2, Yakuba
Kolasa, 65 (Якуба Коласа 65), tel. 266-04-73, www.
cci.by. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Consultbel BVBA Tel. 888 33 35, fax 293 19 44, www.
consultbel.com. Management advice, start-up assistance
and representation for foreign companies setting-up in Be-
larus. Nice people, too.
Sports
Dinamo Stadium (Динамо Стадион) D-2, Kirova
8 (Кирова 8), tel. 226 00 55. Local heroes Dimano play
at the 50,000-capacity Dinamo stadium (the official address
is Kirova 8, although this information is rather superfluous
as one can see the floodlights from Moscow). Tickets are
as good as free, although you`re recommended to buy them
in advance from the attached ticket office. For some seri-
ously thorough information in English on all things soccer in
Belarus, including schedules of up-coming matches, surf
on over to www.soccer-belarus.com. J
Sports Palace (Дворец спорта) B-1, Pobe-
diteley 4 (Победителей 4), tel. 223 44 83. Mr.
Lukashenka is absolutely potty about the game, and
this is the N°1 venue to come and share in the man`s
obsession. Games are played regularly, and schedules
are printed in the local press. Any English-speaking local
will be able to tell you more. J
Water Sports Centre (Дворец водного
спорта) G-5, Surganova 2a (Сурганова 2а), tel.
266 28 92. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Winter Sports (ледовый дворец спорта)
H-1, Pritickogo 27 (Притыцкого 27), MPushkin-
skaya (Пушкинская), tel. 251 01 00. People looking
for fun on the piste can head on over to Raubichi. About
17km from Minsk on the Logoisk highway, several artifi-
cial slopes are available. Numerous places to stay, eat
and drink are provided in the immediate area, making for
fun-filled winter weekends. For more information call tel.
(+375-17) 598 43 30. QOpen 09.00 - 21.00.
Minsk In Your Pocket
European Commission’s Delegation to Belarus,
TACIS branch office С-2, Internatsionalnaya 21
(Интернациональная 21), tel. 206 66 13, tacis_eu-
del@infonet.by, www.delblr.cec.eu.int. QOpen 9:00
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
International Monetary Fund (IMF) D-1, Volodarsk-
ogo 6 (Володарского 6), tel. 200 25 33, www.imf.org.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
United Nations Development Programme (UNDP)
D-2, Kirova 17(Кирова 17), tel. 227 48 76, www.
un.minsk.by.
Xerox Centre H-2, Engelsa 20 (Энгельса 20), tel.
223 67 72. All the usual black and white and colour pho-
tocopying services, plus document presentation services.
Also has a scanner for public use, and sells miscellaneous
pieces of hardware and printer cartridges. We are assured
this is the best of its kind in the city. Note the entrance is
actually way up the street. You need to walk past the actual
shop itself and enter 100m further along. QOpen 09:00
- 18:00. Closed Sun.
Foreign representations
Armenia (Армения) D-2, Kirova 17(Кирова 17), tel.
227 51 53/222 30 72. QOpen , Tue, Thu 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun. J
Belgium (Бельгия) G-2, Masherava 54-94 (Машерова
54-94), tel./fax 293 19 44, consulbel@tut.by, http://
consulbel.at.tu.by. QOpen by prior arrangement.
Bulgaria (Болгария) H-4, Svobody 11 ( пл. Свободы
11), tel. 328 65 58, fax 328 65 59. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00.
Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.
Cuba (Куба) G-4, Krasnozviozdnaya 13
(Крастнозвездная 13), tel. 200 03 83, embacuba@
belsonet.net. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Czech Republic (Чешская республика) B-2, Muzi-
kalnaya 1/2 (Музыкальная 1/2), tel. 226 55 40/226
55 43, minsk@embassy.mzv.cz, www.mzv.cz/minsk.
QOpen 09:00 - 12:30. Closed Wed, Sat, Sun. J
Estonia (Эстония) G-4, Doroshevicha 6a
(Дорошевича 6а), tel. 219 88 30. QOpen 12:00 -
14:00. Closed Tue, Fri, Sat, Sun.
France (Франция) С-2, Svobody 11 (Свободы 11),
tel. 210 28 68, fax 210 25 48. QOpen by prior arrange-
ment. J
Germany (Германия) H-4, Zakharova 26 (Захарова
26), tel. 217 59 00, germanembassy@mail.belpak.by.
QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
China(Китай) G-4, Berestianskaya 22 (Берестянская
22), tel. 285 36 82/285 36 83. QOpen 10.00 - 13.00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
India (Индия) Koltsova 4 (Кольцова 4), tel. 262
99 70, amb.minsk@mea. gov.in. QOpen 09:00 - 11:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Israel (Израиль) I-4, Partizansky 6a (Партизанская
6а), tel. 298 44 02. QOpen 9:00 - 11:30.
Italy (Италия) D-2, Rakovskaya 16 b (Раковская
16б), tel. 229 29 69, http://sedi.esteri.it/minsk.
QOpen 09.00 - 12.00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Japan (Япония) B-1, Pobediteley 23 (Победителей
23), tel. 223 62 33. QOpen by prior arrangment. J
Kazakhstan (Казахстан) A-3, Kuibysheva 12
(Куйбышева 12), tel. 288 10 26, kazemb@nsys.by.
QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun. J
Kyrgyzstan (Киргизстан) F-3, Starovilenskaya 57
(Старовиленская 57), tel. 234 9117, manas@nsys.
minsk.by. QOpen 09:30 - 12:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.
Latvia (Латвия) G-4, Doroshevicha 6a (Дорошевича
6а), tel. 284 93 93, fax 284 73 34, embassy.belarus@
mfa.gov.lv. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
 directory 37

Lithuania (Литва) H-4, Zacharova 68 (Захарова 68),

tel. 285 33 37, embassy.lt@belsonet.net. QOpen 09:00 Officials
- 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Moldova (Молдова) D-2, Belarusskaya 2
(Белорусская 2), tel. 289 14 41. Q Open Tue,
Thu 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun.
J
Netherlands (Нидерланды) Vostochnaya 133, office
503 (Восточная 133), tel. 262 53 23, nedcons@gtp.by.
QOpen 09.00 - 12.00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.
Peru (Перу) Prityskogo 34 (Притыцкого 34), tel. 216
91 14. QOpen by prior arrangment.
Poland (Польша) B-3, Rumiantseva 6 (Румянцева
6), tel. 288 21 14, ambminsk@nsys.by. QOpen 09:00
- 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Romania (Румыния) I-2, Moskvina 4 (Москвина 4),
tel. 203 77 26, romania@nsys.by. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Russia (Россия) A-2, Starovilenskaya 48
(Старовиленская 48), tel. 250 36 66, webmaster@
cis.minsk.by. tel. 222 49 85, fax 222 49 80. QOpen
09:00 - 12:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun. J
Serbia (Сербия ) I-2, Razinskaya 66a (Разинская Ministry of Foreign Affairs D-2, Lenina 19
(Ленина 19), tel. 227 29 22, www.mfa.gov.by.
66а), tel. 226 34 92, jugoslav@anitex.by. QOpen , Mon,
Wed, Fri 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun.
QOpen 09.00 - 16.00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Slovakia (Словакия) Vostochnaya 133-168 Minsk City Executive Committee D-1, Nezavi-
simosty 8 (Независимости 8), www.minsk.gov.by.
(Восточная 133-168), tel. 216 15 63. QOpen 09:00
- 11:30. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.
QOpen 09.00 - 18.00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Sweden (Швеция) C-2, Muzikalnii 1/2 (Музыкальный S t a t e S e c u r i t y C o m m i t t e e (Ко м и т е т
1/2), tel. 226 55 40. J
государственной безопасности Республики
Switzerland (Швейцария) D-3, Krasnoarmeyskaya Беларусь) C-2, Nezavisimosty 17 (Независимости
17), MOktyabrskaya (Октябрьская), tel. 219 12 21.
22a-20 (Красноармейская 22а-20), tel. 227 18 42.
QOpen 09.00 - 12.00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun. J QOpen 09.00 - 18.00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Tajikistan (Таджикистан) D-2, Kirova 17 (Кирова
17), tel. 222 37 98. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. J Minsk State Linguistic University B-3, Zakha-
Tu r k e y ( Т у р ц и я ) D - 1 , Vo l o d a r s k o g o 6 rova 21(Захарова 21), MPloschad Pobedi (Площадь
(Володарского 6), tel. 227 13 83. Consular, tel. 227 Победы), tel. 213 76 63. A huge and highly respected
14 08. Commercial, tel. 227 16 93. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. institution, who offer a multitude of courses in a multitude
Closed Sat, Sun. J of languages. They have a good website in English, with
Ukraine (Украина) A-2, Starovilenskaya an awfully long address: http://lrs.ed.uiuc.edu/students/
51(старовиленская 51), tel. 283 19 90, info@ukraine- shymchuk/PROJECT/MSLU.html. QOpen 09.00 - 21.00.
emb.by. QOpen, Mon 14:00 - 16:00, Tue, Wed, Thu 09.00 Closed Sun.
- 13.00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun. J
United Kingdom (Великобритания) C-2, Karl Marx
37 (Карл Маркса 37), tel. 210 59 20. QOpen Mon, Thu Pharmacies
09:00 - 11:30. Closed Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun. J Belfarmatseya С-2, Nezavisimosty 16 (Независимости
United States (США) A-2, Starovilenskaya 46 16), tel. 227 83 40. Also at Bulvar Schevchenko 11, tel. 288
(Старовиленская 46), tel. 210 12 83. QOpen , Mon, 97 43. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Both open 24
Tue, Thu 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun. J hours. J
Va t i c a n ( В а т и к а н ) C - 1 , Vo l o d a r s ko g o 6 Embassy of Beauty (Посольство красоты) B-
(Володарского 6), tel. 289 15 84. Q Open 09:00 2, Gertsena 2a (Герцена 2а), tel. 226 50 52. Really
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J good place. Gym, massage, haircut, sauna, Jacuzzi and all
that expensive, but very pleasant stuff. Q Open 08:00
Insurance - 20:00. J J

Belgosstrakh (Белгосстрах) H-2, Libknechta 70

(Либкнехта 70), tel. 259 10 21, www.belgosstrakh.by.
QOpen 08:30 - 17:30, Fri 18:30 - 16:40. Closed Sat, Sun.
Belingosstrakh (Белингосстрах) B-1, Pobediteley
19 (Победителей 19), tel. 223 58 78. QOpen 08:40
- 17:10. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Lingo
Goethe Institute (Институт им Гете Интер-
Национес) B-3, Frunze 5 (Фрунзе 5), tel. 236 34 33.
Organisers of deutch-centric exhibitions, films and musical
events. They also do a limited range of German courses.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. J
Photography
Focus (Фокус) C-2, Nezavisimosti 18 (Независимости
18), tel. 206 55 96. Express service. QOpen 10:00 -
20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. J A
Fota Tsentr (Фото центр) D-2, Kirova 1 (opposite
train station) (Кирова 1), tel. 225 62 25. 1-hour service.
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. J
 The Minsk
telephone code is +375 17

July 2008 - July 2009

38 Street register

You're in the town where the streets have three names, and the list below shows all of them for streets
that are on the Minsk Centre map on the facing page. Actual street signs appear in Belarusian, Russian,
or both. Listings for venues that appear on this map are marked with the Central Location symbol ().

English title Map coordinates Belorussian title Russian title

Aranskaja E-2/3 Аранская Аранская

Bobruiskaja D-1/E-2 Бабруйская Бобруйская
Bogdanovicha B/A-2 Багдановiча Богдановича
Byelorusskaya D/E-2 Беларуская Белорусская
Chicherin B-2/A-3 Чычэрына Чичерина
Communalnya B-2 Камунальная Коммунальная
Nabereznaya набярэжная набережная
Dimitrava B-1 Дзiмiтрава Димитрова
Druzhnaya E-1 Дружная Дружная
Engels C-2/D-3 Энгельса Энгельса
Frunze B/C-3 Фрунзе Фрунзе
Gorodskoi Val C-1/2 Гарадскi вал Городской вал
Handllovaya B-2 Гандлевая Торговая
Hiercena B/C-2 Герцена Герцена
Internatsionalnaya C-1/B-2 Iнтэрнацыянальная Интернациональная
Kiselyov A-2/B-3 Кiсялева Киселева
Kirov D-1/C-3 Кiрава Кирова
Kollektornaya C-1 Калектарная Коллекторная
Kommunisticheskaya A-1/B-3 Камунiстычная Коммунистическая
Komsomolskaya C-1/D-2 Камсамольская Комсомольская
Korolya C-1 Караля Короля
Krоpotkina A-2 Крапоткiна Кропоткина
Krasnaya A/B-3 Чырвоная Красная
Krasnoarmeiskaja C-2/D-3 Чырвонаармейская Красноармейская
Kuibyshev B-2/A-3 Куйбышава Куйбышева
Kupala B-2/C-3 Купала Купала
Leninа C-2/E-3 Ленина Ленина
Lieninhradskaja D-1 Ленiнградская Ленинградская
Marx D-1/C-3 Маркс Маркс
Masherov Avenue A-1/B-3 Праспект Машерава Проспект Машерова
Melnikaite A/B-1 Мельнiкайтэ Мельникайте
Mogilyovskaya E-1/2 Магiлеуская Могилевская
Nemiga D/C-1/B-2 Нямiга Немига
Nezavisimosti D-1/B-3 Праспект Проспект
Avenue Незалежнасцi Независимости
Obojnaya B/C-1 Абойная Обойная
Oktyabrskaya D-2/E-3 Кастрычнiцкая Октябрьская
Osvobozdenya B-1 Вызвалення Освобождения
Pashkievich A-2/B-3 Пашкевiч Пашкевич
Pervomaiskaya C-3 Першамайская Первомайская
Pobideteley A-1/B-2 Праспект Проспект
Avenue Пераможцау Победителей
Pulihоva C-3 Пулiхава Пулихова
Rakovskaya B/C-1 Ракауская Раковская
Revolucyjnaya C-1/2 Ревалюцыйная Революционная
Romanovskaya Sloboda B/C-1 Раманауская Слабада Романовская Слобода
Rumyantsev B-3 Румянцава Румянцева
Staravilienskaya A/B-2 Старавiленская Старовиленская
Starazouskaja A-1/B-2 Старажоуская Сторожевская
Sovetskaya D-1 Савецкая Советская
Sverdlov D-1/E-3 Свярдлова Свердлова
Tolstoi D/E-1 Талстога Толстого
Ulyanovskaya D-2/C-3 Ульянауская Ульяновская
Vitebskaya C-1 Вiцебская Витебская
Volodarsky C-1/D-2 Валадарскага Ул. Володарского
Zaborskogo B-2 Заборскага Заборского

Minsk In Your Pocket

M. Gorky/Central park