RAYMOND LTD TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, KANGRA
TEXTILE
TEXTILEINTERNSHIP
INTERNSHIPREPORT
REPORT
RAYMOND PVT LTD. CHINNDWARA
SEMESTER-5
SUBMITTED BY:
Drishti(BFT/17/347)
Priya Shrotriya(BFT/17/301)
Meghna Kandari (BFT/17/270)
Snigdha Mahajan(BFT/17/357)
Raymond Limited | Textile Internship Report 1 | P a g e

DECLARATION
This is to certify that this project report titled “TEXTILE INTERNSHIP” is based on our original
research work conducted under the guidance of our mentors towards partial fulfillment of the
requirement for completion of Bachelor‘s Degree in Fashion Technology (Apparel production), of
the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Delhi. No part of the work has been copied from any
other source. Material wherever borrowed has been duly acknowledge.
Signature of Students Signature of Mentor

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
We have taken efforts in this report. However, it would not have been possible without the kind
support and help of many individuals in the organization i.e. Raymond Ltd. Chhindwara Plant.
We would like to extend our sincere thanks to all of them.
We would like to thank our college NIFT KANGRA for giving us an opportunity to explore the
different virtues of a textile industry with this platform of Textile Internship (20.06.2019 –
05.07.2019).
We are very grateful to our mentors for guiding us throughout the work process and orienting us
towards the achievement of knowledge during the sessions.
We are highly indebted to Mr. Ashish Sharma for his guidance and constant supervision as well as
for providing necessary information regarding the report & also for their support in completing the
report.
Our thanks and appreciations also go to our colleagues in developing the report and people who have
willingly helped us out with their abilities.

OBJECTIVES OF THE INTERNSHIP
 To understand the complete Textile Manufacturing Process, Mechanism and to run it

profitably.
 To understand the role of each subsystem (Dept.) and its relationship with other subsystems.
 Knowledge about the company
 Understanding the company‘s process flow in production.
 Study the work environment and practices followed for textile production.
 To get the Practical Interface of Industry by applying theoretical concepts.
 Asses the faults and critical factors of production and determine the practices adopted by
Raymond.

TABLE OF CONTENTS
S. No. Content Page No.

1 Introduction 6
2 Designing 13
3 Raw Material Godown (RMG) 19
4 Scouring 24
5 Combing 27
6 Carding 28
7 Dyeing 31
8 Recombing 34
9 Spinning 35
10 Weaving 40
11 Finishing 47
12 Folding 55
13 Quality Control 57
14 Conclusion 60

COMPANY PROFILE
Incorporated in 1925, Raymond Group is one of India‘s largest branded fabric and fashion retailers.
It is one of the leading, integrated producers of suiting fabric in the world, with a capacity of
producing 31 million meters of wool and wool blended fabrics. Gautam Singhania is the chairman
and managing director of the Raymond group. With a capacity of 38 million meters in wool and
wool blended fabrics, Raymond commands over 60% market share in worsted suiting in India and
ranks amongst the first three fully integrated manufacturers of worsted suiting in the world. They are
perhaps the only company in the world to have a diverse product range of nearly 20,000 designs and
colors of suiting fabric to suit every age, occasion and style. They export their products to over 55
countries including USA, Canada, Europe, Japan and the Middle East.
GROUP OF COMPANIES OWNED BY RAYMOND
 Raymond Ltd.
 Raymond Apparel Ltd. (RAL)
 Color Plus Fashions Ltd.
 Silver Sparx Apparel Ltd.
 Ever Blue Apparel Ltd.
 Celebrations Apparel Ltd.
 JK Files & Tools
 Ring Plus Aqua Ltd.
JOINT VENTURES OF RAYMOND
 Raymond UCO Denim Private Ltd.

 Park Avenue
 Raymond (Ready to Wear)
 Parx

HISTORY OF RAYMOND
2005
1990 Set up the first
worsted unit
First showroom
plant in Vapi
1968 opened abroad
in Oman
Set up of the
first ready made
1948 garment factory
Opening of in Thane
the first
exclusive
1925 showroom of
Raymond Raymond
woolen mill
in Thane

MARKETS OF RAYMOND LTD.
Raymond Ltd. Caters to 7 types of markets, which are:
 Civil Market: Domestic market of India.
 International Market
 Institutional Market: For private companies, defense, etc.
 RAL / RMG: RAL stands for Raymond Apparel Limited (fabrics sent to Bangalore) and
RMG stands for Ready Made Garments.
 Export Market
 Exotic Market: Elite fabric starting from Rs. 5000 to Rs. 2,00,000 and above.
 Stock Lot
CLIENTS / BUYERS OF RAYMOND
1. Export Clients
 Peerless – USA
 Hugo Boss – UK
 Cevin Taylor – Europe
 Tokida – Japan
 JC Penny – US
 JSM – Europe

2. RAL
 Park Avenue
 Parx
 Raymond (Ready- To- Wear)
 Color Plus
3. RMG
 BlackBerry
 Van Heusen
 Arrow
4. Domestic
 Pokarma Fabrics – Hyderabad
 SMML – Delhi
 NCS Suman – Maharashtra
 T.L. Fashions – Kolkata
 Satguru Enterprises – Nagpur
LOCATIONS OF MANUFACTURING PLANTS
 Vapi
 Chhindwara
 Thane
 Jalgaon

FIBRES USED IN RAYMOND
Raymond is the world‘s largest producer of worsted suiting fabrics commanding over 60% market
share in India. With a capacity of 38 million meters, Raymond is among the few companies in the
world, fully integrated to manufacture worsted fabrics, wool and wool blended fabrics. They also
convert these fabrics into suits, trousers and apparels that are exported to over 55 countries in the
world; including Europe, USA, Canada, Japan and Australia amongst others. The main categories
which are produced in Raymond are:
 Worsted
 Denim and
 Shirting
Different types of fibers including natural and manmade are used in order to create a good quality
fabric with good aesthetics and performance.
Cotton, Wool,
Natural Linen, Silk,
Cashmere
Polyester
Manmade/
Regenerated
Viscose

RAYMOND LTD TEXTILE DIVISION CHHINDWARA
Raymond Chhindwara is situated at a distance of 56 km from the Orange city of Nagpur. It is spread
over a total area of 100 acres. This plot stands as a pioneer in the socio- economic development in
July 1990. The plants was in full swing by 1 st April, 1991. In short span of four years they achieved
stupendous success. They have rapidly improved upon the efficiency figure. The spinning and
weaving department have charged ahead of 90% efficiency levels in all over the world.
The present capacity of the plant after expansion, which has been concluded recently, is 45,000
meters per day. Thus approximately 153 lakh meters is produced per annum at Chhindwara. The
finishing department of the division is one of the largest department.
The main aim for setting up the unit at Chhindwara has been:
 To manufacture world – class polyester – wool and polyester – viscose blended suiting and
furnishing fabrics at competitive prices.
 To establish a large – scale unit in a backward area.
 To ensure all – round socio – economic progress of the region.
 To provide additional sources of employment to people in and around Chhindwara district.

PROCESS FLOW CHART
Designing
SCM
RMG
Scouring
Grey Combing
Dyeing
Recombing
Spinning/ Worsted
Weaving
Finishing
Folding
Quality Assurance
Ware House

DESIGNING
Introduction
Designing enhances the beauty of fabric. As the name suggests the Designing department designs
elegant fabric for Raymond‘s Ltd.
Principle of working of Designing Department:

Determining the quality, pattern, color pallet, types of the fabrics to be produced every season.
Domestic production is attended 6 months prior to delivery while that for export one year before
hand.
Process Flow Chart
Forecasting
Sample Production
To sales and
marketing people
Booking
Bulk
Production

Sequence of Operation
Fabric design forecast books are available by which researchers and people working in the fashion
industry try to analyze trends in the current market, at different trends setting organizations all over
the world and these obtained designs and colors are modified and altered to create their own fresh
new design by crossing 12 design patterns with each other.
The sample goes for further modification and selected samples are kept on hangers. If a particular
hanger is selected the procedure of producing the same kind of fabric with all the necessary
requirements in given in master card.
The master card containing all the necessary and vital information regarding the fabric is prepared.
These are sent to the dealers and agent at various centers for booking.
After booking, the final bulk production starts. Depending upon the season, demand and requirement
the quality, pattern and color of the fabric is decided. Mostly, suiting is patterned with plain or twill
weaves or any other modified versions of them. Color effect plays an important role in deciding the
fabric appearance.
The pattern and color are decided by various hit and trial technique and according to the designer‘s
experience (Plain/Twill/Jacquard). It is calculated manually/technically according to the position of
Warp/Weft (Up-Down method) and the color is decided and filled in the file accordingly.
Functions
 Development of collection for all the markets – Domestic, International.
 Technical service (determining the technical details of count, TPI, twist direction, etc.)
 To determine the following functionality of Designing Automation System as per Raymound
Business requirements.
 Linking of Design Department to Export/Product Department.
 Color Story Generation.
 Bulk/ New Shade Generation.
 Entry of New Cloth Card for Feeler and Sectional Sample.
 Yarn Order Story diversion for Samples.
 Yarn Consumption and Yarn Reservation.
 Creation of various master like brand, party etc.

Important terms used in designing
Blanket:
A sample fabric piece with one or more design and different color combinations.
Color range:
Collection of in trend finalized colors in a blends/count for a particular season.
Design story:
Collection of finalized and the inspiration behind them in a blend/count for a particular
season.
Grandrelle Yarn:
Two yarns of different shades twisted together .
Exotic Samples:
Fine micron wool and combination of other fibers with fine micron wool. Some of the exotic
samples include fabric blended with Gold/Silver lining for the high upper class and suiting
designed for the President.
Exclusive samples:
Exclusive qualities made for dealer. For example (Fabric finishes with natural rose fragrance
for all day freshness).
New cloth card:

(NC card) A card containing details of new fabric design; construction, draft, peg plan, warp
and weft arrangement as well as color combination, yarn count and twist direction.
Length Card/Feeler Card:

A card containing details of fabric design constructing, draft, peg plan, warp and weft
arrangement, count, twist direction and selected color combinations. It is prepared after
incorporating changes in NC card, if any.

Master Card:
A card product for bulk production. It contains details of fabric construction, blends, count,
shade, twist direction, warp and weft arrangement, draft, peg plan, weight loss and length
shrinkage in finishing and selvage arrangement and style of pattern (check pattern/no check
pattern, contrast).
Types of sustainable fabric by Raymond Ltd.

Fabric derived from eco-friendly resources, such as sustainably grown fiber crops or recycled
materials.
1. Eco Vera
It is a fine sustainable fabric made by processing bamboo where the bamboo is burnt and
crushed before spinning producing a fabric out of yarn.
2. Recycled Paper
Over here, the eco-friendly fabric is produced by collecting and pulping the used paper.
The paper produced is then slit and twisted to form a yarn and fabric.
3. Q-nova
Made of recycled nylon-66.
4. Cupro
This fabric is made out of cotton lint extracted from cotton seeds with the cotton balls.
5. Rose scented
As known worldwide, Rose is known for its soft, aromatic and silky texture. This
attribute is implemented in the fabric to produce a soft, silky touch that prevents bacterial
growth and emits aroma.
6. Cashmere
Cashmere wool, usually known as cashmere, is a fiber obtained from cashmere goats and
other type of goats.

Allotment of quality numbers
First 2 Digits Next 3 Digits Last 5 digits
Sections 19 Serial no. is given by Designing
lengths 09 Blends Code which is continuous ‗00001---
Bigger lengths 01 99999
Allotment of Bulk Shade

5 digits are allotted for the bulk shade:
First digit is allotted as per the basic color given below
 White or Yellow
 Blue
 Red
 Olive
 Violet
 Rust/Orange
 Brown/Fawn
 Grey/Black
 Mixture shade
Next four digits are allotted in serial order within the slots for different blends.
Quality No. allotment
For All Wool Series 0000-2999
For Wool Blends & Non-wool Series 3000-8999
For Poly viscose & 100% Polyester series 9000-9999
Mainly Raymond‘s works with two major markets

 Domestic
 International

For domestic market, the fabric produced can go as high as INR 1000/meter, as for the exotic
market and for the regular market the prices start from INR 1500/meter. Sometimes fabrics
are produced exclusively for buyers who are willing to pay generous amounts of money to
get the right quality of fabric.
Sampling
After the designs have been booked and confirmed by the market samples, they are prepared
according to the needs of the designing department. Both yarn and fabric is used with the
same type of machine for sampling. The sampling department is separate at Raymond‘s and
the yarn/fabric is collected after its production at the respective departments.
Yarn Sampling (Process Flow)

 Blend form
 Re-combing
 Gilling
 Spinning
 Yarn delivery
Fabric Sampling (Process Flow)

 Piece ticket
 Plan workout
 Warping
 Loom
 Perching
 Mending
 Finishing

RAW MATERIAL GODOWN
The purpose of the raw material godown (RMG) is to store the goods that have been
outsourced by various countries or parties. It not only stores the goods but also dispatches the
goods as per requirement to the various departments.
The RMG has three sections:

1. Raw Material
2. Top Godown
3. Waste Godown
1. Raw Material
 PSF – Polyester Staple Fibers
 VSF – Viscose Staple Fibers
 TOW – Polyester Continuous Filament
 GWL – Greasy Wool
 SWL – Scoured Wool
PSF
It is a manmade fiber. Therefore the PSF that Raymond‘s receives are stored in the Raw
material section. They are mostly used in three forms:
 Sparkle – It has a shiny lustrous property which has a tri lobal view.
 Normal – Which has a semi dull nature and a round cross sectional view.
 Low Pill – It is highly brittle and breaks easily.
VSF
It is a regenerated cellulosic fiber which is obtained from the wood pulp. Generally these are
dope dyed by the suppliers and are in fibrous form. VSF is generally supplied by Grasim
Industries Ltd. and black and white VSF is imported from China and Austria.
All the polyester material that Raymond‘s Chhindwara receives are in denier 2D, 1.5D, 1.8D,
1.2D and lengthwise 51mm, 54mm, 44mm, 38mm, etc.

TOW
Tow is a continuous filament (polyester) purchased for making blends with wool. It is
possible to get variable length of Tow from the converter machine. Tow is later on converted
into polyester Tops.
GWL
Greasy wool is imported from Australia, South America, South Africa in various micron
value. It is Merino wool which is suitable for suiting cloth.
VARIOUS SUPPLIERS
Suppliers Name Material
RELIANCE INDUSTRIES LTD. TOW – PSF
SURAT BARABANKI TOW – PSF
NEWSRATEX CO. LTD. (CHINA) BAMBOO TOP
GRASIM INDUSTRIES LTD. VSF
FOX AND LILLIE PVT. LTD. GWL
(AUSTRALIA)
AUSTRIA WOOL PVT. LTD. GWL
UNITED WOOL COMPANY PVT. LTD. GWL
MILWAY MRINO PVT. LTD. GWL
NVJOS VANNESTESA (BELGIUM) LINEN TOPS
2. Top Godown
The tops received from the suppliers are stored in this section. Purchased Silk tops, Cashmere
tops, Camel hair tops, Eri silk tops, Bamboo tops, Linen tops, etc. are stored in this section
which is later on delivered to the grey combing department for further processing.
3. Waste Godown
The wastes which are generated by each department are processed and sent back to the waste
godown and stored in the RMG. After receiving various wastes the RMG segregates
according to its category. They are packed in the form of bale by the bale press machine. Few
wastes are kept back and the rest are outsourced to various retailers or whole sale market in
per kg cost.

Per month raw material received on an average:
GREASY AND SCOURED WOOL 1.2 + 3.5 Tons

TOW 4.5 Tons
PSF 2.5 Tons
VSF 1.38 Tons
POLYESTER TOP 6 Tons
WOOL TOP 4.8 Tons
WASTE RECEIVED FROM EACH DEPARTMENT

Grey Combing All Wool Soft
G/C First Noil
G/C Second Noil
G/C First Burr
G/C Second Burr
Shoddy
Converter All Wool Soft

Tow Sparkle Soft
Tow Sweeping
Dyeing Dyeing Soft
Recombing T/W Soft

R/C Noil
R/C Sweeping
P/V Spinning P/V Soft

P/V Hard
P/V Sweeping

P//W Spinning T/W Soft
W/ Spinning P/W Hard
P/W Sweeping
Weaving W/G Selvedge

W/G Mix Hard
W/G Sweeping
Process Parameters:
1. Unloading
 Done by battery forklift or diesel forklift.
 Manual
2. Delivery
 By battery or diesel forklift.
 By tractor or hand trolley.
 Using polythene sheet or nylon bags
3. Loading
 By battery or diesel forklift.
 Systematic arrangements done manually.
4. Waste packing
 Bale press machine.
 Use of boras.
5. Sorting of waste
 Color wise sorting is done.
 Category wise sorting.
6. Storing of wastes in RMG

BALE SPECIFICATION
White Sparkle and Normal 700
Black Sparkle and Normal 350
Viscose 250
Greasy Wool 200
Scoured Wool 150
Top 120
MACHINERY
MACHINE COMPANY QUANTITY USE
BALE PRESS GODREJ 2 To pack the textile waste
FORKLIFT GODREJ 2 To unload, shift and dispatch

(Diesel) (Capacity: 2 ton) materials.
FORKLIFT MACKNELL 3 To unload, shift and dispatch

(Battery) (Capacity: 1.5 ton) materials.
CAPACITY
Raw material godown capacity: 330 tons
Top godown capacity: 170 tons
Waste godown capacity: 2.1- 2.2 tons

SCOURING
Raymond Ltd. is India‘s largest wool fabric producers. Scouring is the first process that the fiber
goes through after entering the mill.
Scouring – Scouring is the technical term used for washing, in which the wool is washed to remove
the dust particles or the vegetable matters from the ―greasy wool‖.
Objective of scouring:
 To remove natural as well as added impurities completely.
 To increase absorbency.
 To leave the fiber in a highly hydrophilic condition without undergoing chemical or physical
damage.
The raw wool used is exported from other countries like South Africa, Australia, Germany, New
Zealand, etc. The other blends are produced in India itself like Cashmere, Camel hair, Eri silk, etc.
Few companies are:

 Australian wools export
 PJ Morris Pvt. Ltd.
 Dynon Exporta
 Swan Wools
 Fox and Lillie Pvt. Ltd.

Process flowchart
Raw wool is transferred

from RMG to scouring
department.
Bale opening
Scouring
Grease is obtained from

the wool and sent into the
wool wax treatment plant.
Extracted impurities are

exported.
Scoured wool is sent to the

Grey combing Department
through ducts.
FUNCTIONS:
The raw wool which is in a bale form (1 bale = 250kgs approx.) is transferred from the RMG to the
wool scouring department where bales are opened with the help of a beater. As the wool comes
directly from the sheep without any wash, there is a high content of grease, dry plant matter from the
fleece, oily substance and dust. The bales are therefore fed into a willing machine manually or with
the help of a conveyor belt which helps to extract all the dry dust from the raw wool. It contains a

double drum opener which consists of two beating rollers which beats the wool. 60% of the dust is
removed here.
There are 6 chambers of blowers and washers in the Scouring machine manufactured by Andar
Holdings Ltd. The fiber is first washed with the help of detergents, caustic soda and then rewashed
with hot water. The key here is to keep the temperature and the volume of soap used as low as
possible so that it doesn‘t damage the fiber.
The preferred temperature is 60-80 degrees. Wool is then dried in the drying chamber which has
perforated rollers. This process continues till the noils come out clean. From this entire process
grease is extracted, which is later treated in the wax treatment plant and is exported further. The
grease is used to make cosmetics etc. All the waste that has been generated is sent back to the RMG
department.
The dried wool is then sent to the bins located in the grey combing department through vacuum
ducts.
 Grease content is removed by 30%.

 Rate of output is 950kg/hr.
 Moisture content in the fiber is 12%-15%.
MACHINE PARTICULARS
Tank No. 1 2 3 4 5 6
Capacity 2800 l 2800 l 2800 l 2800 l 2800 l 2800 l
Squeeze 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

Pressure
(kg/cm3)

Chemicals Soda Detergent Detergent Plain Plain Plain
Water Water Water
Initial Soda 10 kg - - - - -
Initial Detergent - 5 kg 3 kg - - -
Water 10 l 8l 5l Plain Plain Plain

water water water
Addition after every 30 minutes
Soda 1 kg - - - - -
Detergent - 0.53 kg 0.33 kg - - -
GREY COMBING
It is the process of converting the scoured wool and polyester tow into Tops and prepares the
wool for spinning.
This process includes:
CARDING PRE GILLING COMBING

MACHINE PROCESS • Removal of short
• Sliver formation • Parallelization of fibres
slivers
TOP FORMATION
(10Kg wool, 8.5Kg POST GILLING
for polyester)
PROCESS FLOW CHART

From RMG
Polyester Tow Scoured Wool

By Reliance Industries.
Collected from the bin

Conversion of Tow to
and loaded into the
Sliver
carding machine
Gilling Pre gilling
Combing
Post gilling
Top formation
CARDING
Before the raw fiber is made into a yarn, the remaining impurities are to be removed; the fibers must
be detangled and must be straightened. The raw fiber which was earlier scoured and dried transferred
into bins in the grey combing department are used and loaded into the carding machine. This
straightening of fibers before making them into yarn, arranging the fibers in parallel alignment is
known as carding. Here the remaining dust particles, vegetable matters, neps, slubs, etc. are
removed. The lengthwise arrangement helps in forming slivers of wool which then goes into the
gilling machine.
In the Raymond, Chhindwara plant there were 3 carding machines namely NSC Thibeau,
manufactured in France.
The carding machine consists of Hoppers, Feed rollers, Moral burr beater, Waste container, Stripper
rollers, Worker roller, Doffer, Fancy roller and Transfer roller.
 Hopper – Here the scoured wool is deposited to the maximum level. This wool goes to the
feed roller. There is a toothed comb at the top which combs the wool flock and allows the
small size tuff forward.

 Feed Roller – There are two feed roller, one above and one underneath which helps the fiber
to get in the licker in.
 Morel Burr Beater – There are three roller device designed to eliminate the vegetable
impurities in the wool with minimum wool rejection.
 Waste Container – All the waste from the wool is collected in the waste container which is
sent to the RMG.
 Doffer – The function of the doffer is to arrange the fibers parallel to each other. This gives
the output in the web form.
 Fancy Rollers – This contains of three rollers. The main function is to penetrate the fiber in
to the main swift wire which comes out due to the action.
 Transfer Roller – This transfers the fibers from one carrier to another.
PRE GILLING
The main objective of gilling machine is for the parallelization of slivers, weight reduction per unit
length of the slivers, adding lubricants to the fibers and to prepare for the further processing.
The carded slivers are subjected onto the gilling machine lengthwise and are collected into different
cans for combing.
Parallelization is carried out by two collars (top & bottom) which contain pins called fallers. The
machine body compromises the motors, head pinned with fallers, air flow amplifiers draft and
cylinder assemblies. The head is covered by a noise and accident protection hood. The machine
cleaning is ensured by brushes and collectors connected to a filter located at the creel end.
The plant has 8 gilling machines in total with 8 ends as input, which undergo this process
continuously.
COMBING
Combing is a process followed after the pre gilling to remove the short fibers from the slivers, to
remove the vegetable matters, to remove the naps and to lay the slivers into cans. The machine
collects all the dust particles or lint‘s which are sent to the RMG for exporting. In this operation fine

toothed combers are used to straighten or to remove the short fibers, depending upon the micron of
the fiber.
The departments has 15 combing machine with 24 ends as inputs.
POST GILLING
The combed sliver is further processed in the gilling machine for mixing and parallelizing the fiber.
The slivers are then collected and converted into TOPS of 10Kgs with the help of bump press
machine.
POLYESTER PROCESS
The polyester tows are scoured from Reliance industries, Mumbai which measures 1.5-3 deniers.
Tows are basically continuous filaments of fibers which are cut into a length which matches that of a
wool fiber to blend it.
The tows are placed onto a converter which helps in cutting down the fibers and to form slivers. The
formed slivers undergo the same process as the wool fiber to make a top which weighs 8.5Kgs for
polyester.
The slivers then undergo the same process as wool, i.e. Pre gilling, Combing and Post gilling. The
combed slivers are made into tops by the bale press machine which weighs up to 8.5Kgs in case of
polyester.
DYEING DEPARTMENT
Dyeing is the process of adding color or change the color by soaking in a solution impregnated with
a dye.
The function of dyeing department is to deliver fiber to Recombing department, yarns to Weaving
department and fabrics to Mending or Finishing department.
Shade of the fiber, yarn or fabrics is given by designing department.
It depends on the material or requirement of the customer that fabric is dyed at fiber stage, yarn stage
or fabric stage.

Stages of Dyeing
 Testing
In this process the desired samples of dyes are produced and its properties are checked.
Section one has various colored boxes at its lower end. Computer reads the desired recipe and
automatically adjusts the amount of different dyes to be taken in the beaker. Required amount
of water is added automatically and it gets mixed. It now moves to section two through a
suction pipe. This section works according to the needs of the section three samples and
produces and stores that required amount of liquid dye. Section three includes the samples
area where one operator manually feeds the samples in round frames which has a sensor
attached to it to keep that data of that particular sample. Section four has 10 small dyeing
stations numbered from 1 to 10 with each being loaded with samples.
Machine – Color service, Automatic color system, Texfab.

 Storage
Once tested and color is approved on sample then it is produced in bulk. Powder dyes are
dissolved, dispensed and distributed through overhead pipes. Powder or liquid chemicals
which are required with dyes are also stored in tanks and used as per requirement. There are
two additional tanks for those colors which are required on daily basis in large amount.
 Top dyeing/ Fiber dyeing

The prepared tops come from the Grey combing department which is pressed in the carrier by
the help of top press m/c. There are many type of carriers having different capacities i.e.
10kg, 20kg, 50kg, 100kg, 200kg, etc. The loaded tops in carrier are load in to the vertical
HTHP dyeing m/c by the Crain. The maximum Crain capacity is 10 tones. After loading the
tops, the lid of the m/c is closed automatically. The dye solution and the other required
chemicals come into the m/c automatically after giving instruction on computer. The dyeing
and other treatment periods depends upon the shade. For light shade and medium shade it
takes 4.5 hours and for dark shade it takes 5 hours. For wool dyeing, they are using metal
complex and acid dye. For polyester they are using disperse dye. After dyeing they are doing
RC for removal of surface dye which are mechanically attached on the surface of the
material. Top after completing of dyeing process the material comes out and goes to Hydro
extractor for drying, here 40% of water is removed from material. After this the material goes

to RF dryer for 100% drying. These dried materials are kept as stock for further processing
i.e. re-combing.
 Yarn dyeing
Yarn dyeing is done in a yarn carrying basket which consists of long pointed metallic
spindles in which yarns are accommodated. A maximum of 7 yarns are fit into one spindle.
For yarn dyeing they are making special type of package in the winding section. For
producing these yarns they are using wire spring. According to the carrier capacity the
number of yarns are filled in the spindle. It is then feed to the vertical dyeing machine by the
help of Crain. After loading the material, the lid of the m/c is closed automatically. The dye
solution and the other required chemicals come into the m/c automatically after giving the
instruction from the control room. After dyeing they are doing RC for removal of surface dye
which are mechanically attached on the surface of the material. After completing of dyeing
process the material comes out and goes to cheese hydro extractor (1360 rpm) for drying.
After this material goes to RF dryer for 100% drying. These dried materials are going to
warping section for further processing.
No. of Hydro extractors – 8
 New hydro extractors
Make – D. Parekh Engineering Works
Maximum load – 450kg
RPM – 700
 Old hydro extractors
Make – D. Parekh Engineering Works
Maximum load – 400kg
Basket – 60x20
Capacity – 500kg
 One special hydro extractor was in use only for extracting water out
Make – Lakshmi
Model – Zeneros 2.5
Speed (RPM) – 1350
After Hydro extraction, the material is taken to the RF Dryer.

 Piece dyeing
For piece dyeing, the material is received from the Finishing department.
 Poly Viscose
 Poly Wool
Poly Viscose is first dyed in Rapid Jet m/c for dyeing the polyester part and then jiggers are used for
dyeing the remnant portions of Viscose. Polyester is dyed with disperse dyes whereas viscose with
vat dyes. Poly wool is dyed directly in Rapid Jet machines at a temperature of about 120 degree
Celsius. A formaldehyde base is used for protecting wool as it damages after 100 degree Celsius. 100
pieces are dyed each day with each piece having an average length of 150 m, so a daily capacity of
15000 meters/day. A chemical recipe is prepared for these variable capacity dyeing machines
because the amount of material to be dyed is very less so great caution is maintained for proper
dyeing. After the dyeing process is complete, the dyed materials (yarn, fiber, tops) are then taken to
the hydro extractors for extracting the excess water.
Machines at piece dyeing section - 12

Rope form – 8
Jiggers – 4
RECOMBING
The dyed tops from the dyeing department are brought in this department for further combing and
blending, mixing of blend (poly viscose, poly wool etc.) also for straightening and stretching of
fibers to obtain maximum spinning capacity. Recombing is also done to remove neps, slubs formed
during the dyeing process as well as to remove the short fibers. The wool and polyester are mixed
accordingly to the ratios 70:30, 40:60 and so on.

Process Flow Chart
R/F DRYER LENGTHWISE BLEND

BLENDING
GILLING LAYERING
PREPARATORY
PERCHING POST GILLING RECOMBING
GILLING
TOP STORAGE
FINAL TOP
AREA
Functions
The dyed tops from the radio frequency drying machine and the undyed tops are brought into the
Recombing department for further gilling. The Raymond plant has two sections for recombing the
tops. One is for the dyed tops and the other is for the white or undyed tops. This is to avoid the
mixing of colored fibers with the undyed.
In the length wise gilling, the tops are opened and fed into the machine to further parallelize it. In the
blend layering sections the different colored tops are opened and separated according to the blend
provided by the buyer. The blend card comes by the designing department and the color shade
wanted by the buyer is mentioned on it with the percentage of the fiber blend in it. Similarly different
blends are made according to the order quantity and quality of the fiber. After the layering of the tops
into different blends, blending is done with the help of gilling machines. Lubricants are added on
them for proper conditioning.
After the gilling process the blended slivers are transferred to the comber, where removal of naps
takes place. The feed length is set for the shorter fiber removal. The combed slivers further goes
through perching where an operator checks the amount of defects like slubs, naps, etc. On approval
from him the combed slivers are sent to the bump press machine where final tops are made which
weighs 20kg each. The rejected cans of slivers are further re processed. The final tops are then sent
to the top storage area for spinning.

Machines used:
Machines Brand No. of machines Objectives
Lengthwise NSC 4  To deflect the wool which becomes
Deflector felted after dyeing.
 To apply wool lubricating oil for
smooth working.
Blending machine NSC 5  To blend polyester and wool in
required composition.
 To parallelize the fibers.
 To apply anti- static oil.
Preparatory Gilling NSC 4 To parallelize and for homogeneous mixing
of fibers.
Recombing NSC 26 To remove short fibers, neps, slubs, etc.
PV Spinning
Spinning is the process of converting fibers into yarn. The raw material of this department is
polyester and viscose blend which comes from recombing department. For white yarn formation
white color viscose and polyester comes from RMG and for dyed yarn it comes from recombing.
Process Flow Chart for PV Spinning

Material received
from RMG and Mixing Blow room Carding
Dyeing
Auto winding Ring frame Speed frame Draw frame
Ply winding Two for one

Steamer
twisted twister
Blow Room
There are two feed systems in blow room:
 Chute feed
 Lap feed
1. Firstly, the raw material is coming from RMG/ dyeing department to P/V spinning
department in the bale form, the opening of polyester and viscose fibers are done.
2. They add some oil for decreasing static charge and add binding agent among polyester fibers.
3. When the yarns are brought from the recombing department, moisture is introduced in it by
the process of humidification. It is done by storing the bump tops in conditioning room,
where the relative humidity of about 84% is maintained, and the time duration varies for
different fibers and blends. This process is called conditioning.
4. Then conditioning of polyester fibers is carried out for 24 hours. This mixing is done
manually. Then they prepare the layers of polyester to their required percentage.

Gilling
Three gilling lines are present at the spinning department each containing four gilling machines.
There are two lines of GC (gilling chain) machines whereas one line of GN (gilling normal)
machines. The gilling carried out at this stage doesn‘t require oiling as required in the previous
gilling machines. The auto leveler is used in the second gilling machine so that the delivery of
the sliver is monitored and a uniform sliver is obtained. Thus the gilling of the tops is carried out
four times through different gilling machines. After the material is passed through each machine,
the wrapping of the sliver keeps on decreasing.
Vertical Gilling
After the sliver passes through the four gilling machines, it is passed through a vertical gilling
machine to get a better output. Usually when finer output is required, the vertical gilling of the
material is done. In this machine, the fallers like in the usual gilling machine are not in a
horizontal position but in a vertical position. In this machine, the gravity due to the vertical
fallers also plays an important role.
Rubbing Frame
In the spinning system, the sliver formed is converted into the roving in the rubbing frame
machine. In this machine, the sliver passes through the drafting system and then through the
rubbing aprons where the rubbing strokes are applied to the sliver which decreases the wrapping
of the sliver. The spindles of the roving are formed which are then ready to be sent to the ring
spinning machine. There are total 3 machines from which two machines have 20 spindles which
produce 20 roving spindles per machine. 20 bicoiler cans are used as input which produce a
roving bobbin with double rovings. The third machine produces 24 roving bobbins. The roving is
winded onto a package of about 2- 2.5kg each. One package contains two rovings. This is done
to reduce the usage of space while spinning. One roving is usually used to make one yarn (except
in the case of SIRO and Lycra yarns) and hence one package can be used to make two yarns at a
time. The guides are used to guide the yarn to wrap it around the spindle. The different guides of
different colors and the shape of the spiral of the guides indicate the type of material that is used.
Green guides are used for a coarser count having more number of spirals for a count range of 20-
50 Nm. Yellow guides are used for a count that is less than the green guides. While the white
guides are used for a finer count of 80Nm or more and it has less spirals. The auto doffing is
carried out and then the roving bobbin is sent to the ring frames.

Ring Frame
The cone made after the rubbing process of the sliver is used in ring frame. The thickness of this
rubbed sliver varies as per the required yarn count. Higher the yarn count, finer the sliver and
vice versa. The cone made of rubbed sliver contains one pair of sliver. Ring Frame is fed by this
roved cone, having a 4 or 4 cylinder draft unit with the double apron to ensure fiber control,
grooved intermediate cylinder under the top apron to enable a controlled flowing of fibers. The
machine uses the ring system to impart twist to the yarn to obtain the final strength properties.
There are four types of ring spinning machines present in the spinning department. They are:
1. Compact spinning
2. Normal Spinning
3. Lycra spinning
In the normal spinning process, the roving bobbins are placed on the creel of the machine from
there it passes through the three roller drafting system having double aprons. As the cheese is
having two ends, two yarns are formed from one package. After the drafting arrangement, the
yarn passes through the ring and traveler assembly. The ‗J‘ type traveler is used in the ring
spinning systems. After the twist is inserted, the yarn is wound on bobbins which is then sent for
further processes. In the compact spinning system, the overall process is same as the normal ring
spinning process. The main difference is that the front rollers of the drafting arrangement have
suction system due to which the hairiness of the fibers is reduced as the yarn is compacted by
suction. Also there is less fly generation compared to normal spinning system. In the Lycra
spinning system, the two ends of yarn coming from the same bobbin are run alongside a yarn of
Lycra. Thus total three yarns are twisted together to form a resultant yarn. Lycra has a property
of stretch and hence the inclusion of Lycra in the yarn gives the additional property of stretch
ability to the yarn and also to the fabric. In SIRO spinning, the two ends of yarn from the same
cheese are drafted in the drafting system differently and then they are twisted together to form a
yarn. This eliminates the need of further processing of ply winding and TFO which is the main
advantage of this system of spinning. Alongside the ring spinning machines, the blower system
of Saraelgi NugenS is provided which blows out the dust and fiber particles and also the suction
system present sucks the fiber particles from the surroundings of the machine.

Steaming
After the ring spun bobbins are made, they are steamed into the steaming machine for the
particular period of time and temperature as per the type of yarn. The main object of steaming is
to remove the snarls present in the yarn. The snarling tendency becomes zero after the steaming
process. The steaming is carried out once after the ring spinning process and then after the TFO
process.
Auto Coner
The ring spinning bobbins have a small package size due to the machine limitations. For further
processes, large package is required for better production rates. If the small ring spun bobbins are
used in the further processes, they would have to be replaced frequently which would reduce the
efficiency of the machine. For this purpose, the Auto Coner is used to make bigger packages
from the ring spun bobbins. The creel holds 9 ring spun bobbins and a bigger package is made
from them according to the requirement. The yarn passes through a yarn guide and also through a
yarn clearing device which works on photoelectric principle. The yarn clearer senses the
thick/thin places and the faults that are set in the machine and if the fault is detected, the yarn
fault is cut with a knife and is pieced again with the piecing device. Air splicing is done here and
usually the splice strength is 95% of the single yarn strength and the yarn diameter of 1.2 times
the speed yarn. Here also a suction device is present which removes the dust and fluff. The
packages are auto- doffed in the machine.
Ply Machine
The strength of the single yarn is always lesser than the doubled yarn. As the wool yarn is not
sized, some method is necessary to provide sufficient strength to the yarn. By doubling the yarn,
the strength of the yarn increases to a great extent. In this machine, the packages made in the
Auto coner are used. Two packages are used and doubled to form a one doubled yarn.
TFO (Two for One Twisting) Machine

The double yarn formed in the ply machine is not twisted. The twist insertion is necessary to
impart strength to the yarn. This is done by TFO. In this machine, two twists are inserted by one
turn of yarn. The machine runs between 8000-10500 rpm for twist ranging between 17-24 TPI.
Finally this wound yarn is sent to the steaming room and then to the yarn room from where it is
sent to weaving department as per requirement.

WEAVING DEPARTMENT
Process Flow
Input from
Conditioning Creel
Yarn room
Warping
Weaving Drawing
Wefting
Introduction
Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are
interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. The way the warp and filling threads interlace
with each other is called the weave. There are some points kept in mind before the weaving
process is carried. An average temperature of 30 degree Celsius is maintained in the loom to keep
the machines cool. An average humidity of 65%-70% is maintained to keep the fibers moistened
which is required for the further processes the humidification plant.
Weaving is done after the yarn is prepared from spinning process. And before doing actual
spinning process various treatments and operations are done to get the yarn be ready to be
inserted in the looms for weaving. The whole process includes yarn preparation, winding,
warping, beaming, drawing, denting, knotting and finally weaving. The processes are automatic
and manual.
The department gets input from the yarn room, and the yarn according to the need is dispatched
for next processes, once the fabric is made it is inspected and send to the mending department
where faults are repaired manually and then it is sent for finishing and after that folding.
After receiving input from yarn room, the yarn preparatory process is done.

Yarn bundles from yarn room
The weaving activities start from yarn room. After spinning and doubling the yarn, The PPD
department and yarn room in charge checks the yarn particulars.
Only the correct yarn is given entry in the yarn room according to the correct shade number, lot
number, etc. The yarn is weighed and its particulars are entered into the computer with specified
quantity and quality. After delivering the yarn, remaining yarn is brought back to the yarn room.
After twisting and steaming, the yarn from the spinning department comes to the yarn room.
Yarn room is an intermediary storage location for yarns and it comes in between the spinning
department and the weaving department, in the process flow.
There are two yarn rooms in this plant called as Old Double Yarn Room and New Double Yarn
Room. Old DYR is for PV blend yarn and new DYR is for PW blend yarns.
The yarn cheeses are transported by means of trolleys, which are numbered. The yarn cheeses are
kept on trolleys and the material from trolleys is kept in a particular bin.
Further it‘s being checked to match shades, thickness and should be free from all the defects than
only can be pass to further process.
Conditioning
Once the yarn is accepted from yarn room some treatment is given to it before taking for further
processes. It is being conditioned for 8 to 10 hours to add some moisture to it which added
strength to it.
Winding
Winding process can be defined as the transfer of spinning yarn from one package to another
large package. So we can say that, the process of transferring yarns from ring, bobbin, hank into
a suitable package is called winding. It may be electrical or mechanical. To transfer yarn from
one package to another suitable package, this can be conveniently used for weaving process.
Packages like cones (1.5 – 2.5 kg) and cheeses (4 -6 kg) for increased exhaustion time.
Types of Winding
Warp Winding
Warping is a process by which long length of many yarns are winded on a flanged bobbin to
produce a warp beam.

Weft Winding
Weft winding is the process of converting yarn from cones or cheeses to bobbins of required yarn
amount for automatic looms.
Warping
Warping is a process of making the hank yarn to linear lengthy form in a huge warping wheel,
which helps the yarn to take position of warping section for weaving. The dyed yarns are
collected and spun onto the warping wheel where the yarn is counted with the length.
Warping is the first step of fabric manufacturing process. After winding, warping process is done
for making a weavers beam. Weavers beam is produced from a set of yarns of same yarn count or
different. To arrange a convenient number of warp yarns of related length so they can be
collected on a single warp beam as a continuous sheet of yarns according to the warp pattern and
the formation of warp beam which can be used for sizing or next process.
In the fabric forming system, all of the yarns structure is presented in the sheet form. It is
therefore necessary to remove or unwind the yarns from the winding package and arrange the
desired number of ends in a sheet form and wind it on package under controlled tension on a
package called a beam. The yarns must be parallel and under uniform tension.
Warping Process
Function
Creel Section Warping Section Beaming Section
The bobbins are loaded here Sectional warping is done here Preparation of weavers beam
for warping
Maximum capacity: 480 ends Maximum width: 180 cm Maximum width: 220 cm
Maximum section per beam: Speed: 800 m/min Speed: 200 m/min
35
Warping Parts
Creel
A metallic frame to hold the package or bobbin is known as creel. Its function is to hold the
packages in a manner so as to facilitate warping.

Warping section
In this section, sectional warping is done in which sections are made according to design.
Sectional warping machine details
Make Prashant Gamatex, India
Model EP- 1080/110/GEP-1250
Year 1996
Maximum speed (warping) 600 m/min
Maximum speed (beaming) 100 m/min
Beaming Section
Beams are made which are used further for weaving. Beams are made according to the weave
pattern.
Drawing Process
Drawing- in is the entering of yarns from a new warp into the weaving elements of a weaving
machine, namely drop wires, heddles and reed, when starting up a new fabric style. This is
affected by passing the warp yarn through the dents of the reed of appropriate count so that the
cloth woven from the warp may contain the required number of threads.
There are two types of drawings:
1. Automatic
2. Manual
Machine SUPER VEGA Automatic
Drawing-In Machine
Make ELM SPA, Italy
Model Super Vega 2400
Brand ELM
Year 2005
Speed 70 ends/min

Maximum Speed 80 ends/min
Capacity 24 frames
Width 240 cm
Frequency 4 beams/shift
Denting
The lifting plan is drawn at the right side of the weave plan.
Denting Plan
The process of inserting warp threads or ends through the dents of reed is called denting and the plan
that indicates the order in which denting is done is called denting plan. Usually two yarns are passed
through each dent.
It is the process of drawing the warp yarns through reed wires, as per the reed count .
Knotting
A weavers knot joins two threads together in a knot that will secure your threads and allow you to
continue weaving. Pull both ends of the threads in the opposite direction to tie the knot, making sure
to pull each thread hard so that the knot tied is tight.
In case for knotting, two warp sheets of different colors but having same design/ pattern. This is done
at two places:
1. Knotting on warping machine
2. Knotting on loom
Weaving
Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are
interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. Other methods are knitting, crocheting, felting,
and braiding or plaiting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the
weft or filling.
The object of weaving is to produce the fabric by the interlacement of warp and weft. The other
objective is to produce defect free fabric by using the suitable mechanisms.
Rapier Weaving

Rapier loom is a shuttle less weaving loom in which the filling yarn is carried through the shed of
warp yarns to the other side of the loom by finger like carriers called rapiers.
Rapier loom is a shuttle less weaving loom in which the filling yarn is carried through the shed of
warp yarns to the other side of the loom by finger like carriers called rapiers. As in the projectile
loom, a stationary package of yarn is used to supply the weft yarns in the rapier machine. One end of
a rapier, a rod or steel tape, carries the weft yarn. The other end of the rapier is connected to the
control system. The rapier moves across the width of the fabric, carrying the weft yarn across
through the shed to the opposite side. The rapier is then retracted, leaving the new filling in place.
Features of Rapier Machine

1. Electronically controlled weft tensioner reduces the yarn tension especially during insertion.
2. Automatic package switching device prevents the machine from being stopped in the even
weft break between the package and weft feed. The weavers can repair the fault while the
machine is running and reactivate the unit that has been stopped.
3. Electronically controlled warp let-off and cloth take up units ensure a high degree of fabric
regularity and prevents all kinds of start and stop marks.
4. Grippers are redesigned to ensure better clamping of the yarn and prevent rubbing against the
warp yarns.
Picanol and Nuovo Pignone Looms

 Picanol and NP loom work on flexible rapier principle of tip transfer. The weft insertion rate
for Picanol is around 800 mpm while of NP loom is around 600 mpm with maximum
working width of 190 cm and 220 cm for GAMMA. Both these looms have an electronic let-
off motion for constant warp tension regulation and auto take-up setting mechanism, which
eliminates change of pick wheel. Both these looms are adapted to quick style change, which
is necessary with shorter lots as practiced here. Grosse electronic jacquard controls the name
selvedge with 40-hook capacity. The usual head shafts are controlled by Staubli electronic
dobby having a maximum capacity of 18 shafts. The weaver beam capacity for these looms is
500 kg. Both these looms have tuck-in selvedge. Weft insertion is through yarn accumulator
for a controlled weft insertion. Both these looms have provision for multi-color weft
insertion. Here usually four are used.
Stop Motions and Safety Measures

 Safety Mat
A safety mat at the back of machine, where the beaming occurs is inbuilt in the machine
which when opened, the machine stops.
 Sensors at various places

These sensors detect the presence of any matter nearby restricted areas, like near the fast
moving warping roller, and stop the machine.
 End break stop
Whenever there is an end break at the creel section, or anywhere in the machine, it stops.
 Weave complete
Automatically stops the machine on the completion of the work.
Picanol Optimax
Free Flight System
Quick step filling presenter for up to 12 color insertion: The color and weave pattern are
controlled by microprocessor or jacquard.
Exchangeable shed formation: The OptiMax can be fitted with a positive cam motion, electronic
positive dobby or electronically driven jacquard.
OptiLeno: OptiMax also offers the possibility to produce leno fabrics without the need for a
superstructure or leno heddles.
Tuckers: The OptiMax can be equipped either with a versatile mechanical tucker or with an air
tucker, both designed for high speeds, in line with the high industrial speeds of the machine.
Programmable filling tensioner: Programmable filling tensioner (PFL-TEC) is microprocessor-

controlled and ensures optimum yarn tension during the complete insertion cycle.
Electronic Selvedge System: The unique electronic selvedge system (ELSY- patented) full leno
selvedge motions are electrically driven by individual stepper motors.
 Electronic Take-Up and Let-Off

 Fast width changes
 Quick style changes
 Automatic easy warp gaiting and cloth doffing
Stop Motions
Prewinder Switch-Off: The OptiMax has a piezoelectric filling detector hat stops the machine in
case of a filling break.
Cycle
After weaving the fabric is inspected and the good one is forwarded further, and the defeated one is
rechecked to find the loop holes and reason for it.
After this mending, perching, finishing and folding.
FINISHING
Introduction
 Finishing is one of the essential process of a processing mill where all the materials are
subjected to finishing before they are put in the market. This process improves the efficiency
and the cost of the cloth by approx 10%.
 Raymond‘s Chhindwara finishing department is the largest finishing department of Asia. It
includes washing, drying and application of some chemical and mechanical treatment to the
fabric to make it aesthetically appealing and add features to the fabric.
 The finishing department at Raymond Chhindwara has 3 sections, i.e. Grey section, Wet
section and Dry section. Department is equipped with modern machinery for washing,
scouring, singeing, pressing, etc.
The production capacity of the finishing department is approximately 45000 meters per day.
Finishing gives certain advantages such as:
 Improved luster and appearance.
 Improved feel which depends on the handle of the fabric, its softness and fullness etc.
Improves wearing qualities anti crease.
 It provides special properties required for particular uses: water proofing, anti- flaming.
 It increases weight of fabric and hence sell value of the material.

 Improves serviceability and natural attractiveness.
At Raymond‘s, the finishing department is divided in three sections:
 Grey Section
 Wet section
 Dry section
GREY ROOM
This section is called grey room because all the grey material from the weaving department after
perching and mending is being sent to grey room. Here all the pieces are sorted according to weaving
machine number.
WET SECTION
This section is known as wet finish section because all the treatments that are carried out on the
material are in wet form that includes Batching, Pre-scouring, Heat set, Shearing, Singeing, Wetting,
Solvent scouring, Rope scouring, Squeezing, Drying.
DRY SECTION
This section is called the dry finish section as here the fabric is treated in dry form throughout. Only
mechanical operations are rendered to the fabric in order to enhance its look, shine and feel. This
treatment is generally under the influence of pressure and steam which includes Damping, Nikki
press, Dolphin-Contipress, Stabila (antishrink), TMT (kier decatising) and Super finish (open
decatising).
Pre- defined terms
 Mending: To remove defects like knots formed during weaving.
 Batching: Shortening each beam of fabric according to shades.
 Singeing: The fabric is exposed to flames and made to pass through to it.
 Pre scouring: Extraction of dust and other particles.
 Drying: Fabric is dried in a chamber of temperature 170 degree Celsius.
 Heat set: Fabric is passed through a heated chamber of temperature 185- 190 degree Celsius.
 Rope scouring: Scouring is done in rope form.
 Softening: To remove the harshness of fabric by adding softeners like silicon in the solution.
 Pressing: It is done to remove wrinkles and make the fabric smoother.
 Decatising: To remove excess of luster and prepare the fabric for pressing and cutting.

Process flow chart of the Finishing Department (wet section)
P/W top dyed P/W piece dyed P/V fiber dyed P/V piece dyed
Batching Batching Batching Batching
Open washing Open washing

Open washing Pre scouring in Dyeing
Heat set Heat set
Heat set Heat set
Dyeing
Singeing
Singeing Re batching Dyeing
Brushing
Wetting Shearing
Resin Re batching
Singeing
Rope washing Perching
Singeing
Wetting
Squeezer
Rope washing Brushing
II Dry
Squeezer
Resin
Shearing II Dry
Perching
Perching Shearing
Perching

Types of Defect
 Bowing
 Chemical/Resin Spot
 Color Contract
 Color Damage
 Damage Selvedge
 Drain Mark
 Dust Mark
 End Mark
 Exposure Mark
 Fibrous/Beads
 Finishing Abrasion
 Finishing Creases
 Finishing Crush Mark
 Finishing Other
 Finishing Color Fastness
 Gun Mark
 Insect Spot
 K.D Yellow
 Moon Mark
Semi Finish Inspection: This is the manual work which is done by the skilled perched. Main
object of the SFI is to remove or mend the rectifiable defects of spinning and weaving like knots,
slubs, broken end, missing pick, tight end etc. Apart from this it also gives the report of defects if
present in the material of wet section department like singeing band, patches, moon mark, wrong
spinning etc.

Process flow chart of the Finishing Department (dry section)
P/W top dyed P/W piece dyed P/V (piece & fiber
dyed)
Damping Damping Dolphin
Nikki Press
Nikki Press
Stabila/Nikki
(off white)
TMT
TMT (Box trolley)
Stabila Press TMT
Stabila Press
Conti Press
Super Finish
(off white only)
Conti Press
Re TMT
STENTER
The stenter can be used for heat setting and drying. Before passing the fabric through the heating
chamber, it is passed through a tank containing water and softener. Pins on the conveyor grip the
fabric properly before entering into the chamber. 10 coils heat the drying chamber. It comprises of
five chambers and each chamber is provided with heated radiators and two blower fans. These
radiators are heated with continuously circulating heated oils through it. Heated oil enters at one end
of radiator and goes back for reheating from the other end. Thus, the same oil is continuously
circulated in these radiators. A fan does the function of blowing the heat of radiators on the fabric
passing through these chambers Suction is provided for extracting the moisture. For heat setting, the
temperature of the chamber is kept about 185C and for drying.
The grey fabric has some amount of hairiness. The main aim of this process is to remove the fibers
that are present that give rise to hairiness. After the fabric is passed through the stenter, the short
fibers are raised on the surface which are then burnt by singeing. This is done by passing the fabric
through the flame of the LPG burners of the singeing machine which burn the protruding fibers from
the surface of the fabric. The fabric moves at a speed of 10O rpm and the temperature is maintained

around 120°C. Three types of flames are used in singeing: direct flame, on roll flame and tangential
flame.
ROPE SCOURING
The fabric is scoured in the rope form in this machine. After the singeing, the fibers that are burnt out
are stuck on the surface of the fabric. After the rope scouring, the fibers are removed from the
surface of the fabric. The temperature is maintained around 86°C and the machine runs at 100-120
rpm speed. The fabric becomes soft after it is rope scoured as compared to the grey fabric.
ROPE OPENER
After rope scouring, the fabric is wet and in rope form and here it is opened and washed. The speed
of the machine depends on the working style of the operator and also on the type of fabric. Usually
the speed lies between 40- rpm.
SHEARING
The object of shearing is to remove the protruding fibers from the fabric surface and to even out or
level the neps that have been arose previously. After resourcing, the yarns in the fabric swell,
resulting in opening of twist of yarn thus increasing the surface fibers. Shearing is an important
process in the dry finishing department. This process makes further process easier and imparts good
sharpness to the surface.
DAMPING
Damping is the operation carried out before pressing and decatising. In all pressings, temperature
goes above 100 degree Celsius, which can cause complete evaporation of the water particles from
the fabric. Before pressing it is very important for the fabric to have sufficient amount of water to
give better finish. In this process, moisture is artificially given to the fabric by evenly spraying water
under certain pressure thus giving the required amount of moisture to the fabric.
PRESSING

The aim of pressing is to make the fabric smoother by subjecting it to the strong compression against
polished and heated rollers. Objective of pressing are aesthetic and partly commercial. Many times
the finishing operation disturbs the surface of the yarn and the fabric. The unevenness and the
impurities cannot be reduced till it is blown and pressed. Pressing can be considered as mild, mainly
cohesive setting treatment. In Raymond, pressing is carried out on Nikki press machine.
RELAXATION
The main objective of this process is to minimize the process shrinkage. Due to various finishing
processes the fabric gets stretched in lengthwise and widthwise. Therefore it becomes necessary to
remove the excess tension of the fabric. This is done by passing the fabric over the conveyor belt
through saturated steam and hot air pressure, the conveyor is subjected to vibration through vibrator
roller. Fabric is pressurized through the steam of 3.5kg pressure. The tunnel temperature is
maintained at 105°C to 110°C. At the same time dry air is blown through perforated conveyor and
fabric. This overall process gives relaxation to the fabric and minimizes the process shrinkage which
reduces shrinkage after finishing.
DECATISING
The object of decatising is merely to remove excessive luster, and the thin papery handle from
previous processes, as well as to prepare for pressing and cutting. There are two types of decatising:
open and kier. In the case of kier decatising (K.D), pressure is applied to the material along with
steam while in the case of open decatising no pressure is applied and only steam is passed through
the drums. The results obtained from KD are more permanent.
SUPER FINISH
This machine is used to give special type of shine and luster to the
fabric. Here temperature, pressure and steam are maintained according to the quality of the fabric.
Therefore, decatising process also occurs in this machine. The fabric fed to the pressing unit is
passed dry or moist at high temperature between the mirror bright chromate effect roller and the
rubber coated surface of the guide belt under high belt tension wherein actual setting and pressing
takes place. Raymond gives different types of finish on the fabric as per the buyer's requirement.
Water repellent effect, UV ray protection effect, scented garments and a lot more.

MACHINE DETAILS
Name No. of machine Model Features

Batangas Batch
Calico Max 700 to 800 meters
making 4
Type: PPM/076 per lot
m/c
For pre-scouring,
Open width
1 Dhall Ahmadabad speed-16mt/min,
washing m/c
pH-7.5
For pre-scouring,
chemicals-
Jigger m/c 3 JT10 Didavin-EWN,
Baysolux, Oxalic acid,
etc, speed-50mt/min
Harish (Gujarat) For heat set, speed-
Stenter 2 Model: - 22mt/min, 170-
Supra 5 185 C
m/c speed- 25mt/min,
cutter-
Lafer Italy
1100rpm, 4 brushes at
Shearing m/c 3 Model :-CMI2(1996),
500 rpm,
CMI-200(2003)
brush direction-
reverse to fabric.
Burner distance-10-
osthoff – singe 12mm, flame
Singeing m/c 2 (Germany) intensity- 10-14 bar,
Model: - VP-97 (1998) speed- 80-100
mt/min
100 liter – H2O
2 gpl – Sandozin MRN
Wetting m/c 1
(wetting
agent)
MAT SPA (Italy), Detergent- Ascodet
Hemmer, ECN, softener-
Rope scouring m/c 11 Dolly, Serracant, Sarasoft 485 , fabric
Zonco(Italy), Dhall remains inside
(Ahmadabad) for 60 min

FOLDING
Process Flow
Segregation of
Inspection fabrics according
to the quality
Sent to ware Folding and

house packing
INTRODUCTION
Folding is the pre process done before fabric sent to the warehouse and post process to finishing. In
folding process the fabric is not only folded in roles but it's also been inspected again by the Quality
team.
They usually use four points inspection system to check the fabric. The main objective of the folding
department is to carry out the processes of planning, perching, quality checking, classifying,
stamping, folding and packing. The fabric is classified and stored according to Quality. And the main
thing is that it is being checked whether it satisfies the customer requirement or not.
Market covered by Raymond:

1. Domestic - This market focuses on Indian market, it supplies materials to the domestic
customers. Visual inspection are done and according, to the quality grading is given from
Good, then second A to D.
Types of grading: Good, Second "A, Second "B, Second "C", Second ―D‖.

The fabrics are classified according to the defects, and hence are flagged. 3 Flags are allowed in 15
meters. Up to 5.6 meters no flag is allowed. Lapping — Weighing — Binding — Sealing -then
Delivered to Ware House.
They are made in flaps.
2. Exclusive- In this kind of market the design and type are provided by the customers.
3. Export- This material is for exporting of fabric outside the country or abroad. 4 point
inspection is used for this .This is packed in roles
Four point inspection system

In this inspecting system the checkers give points to the fault, according to the fault length.
0-3 inches damage is considered as 1 point.
9-12 inches damage is considered as 4 points.
4. Rmg (ready-made Garment) - Ready made garment is the category where the stitched
garments are sold to the customer. In Chhindwara plant this category was not available as it is
a textile plant.
5. Exotic - In this category various new types of fabric and expensive material is kept.
Major faults are:

• Double Pick
• Thick pick
• Stain mark
• Oily weft
• Bowing
• Crease mark
• Drop stitches
• Jerk in
• Pinhole
• Miss print

• Out print
• Shade variation, etc,
Machine Details
Machine Brand Objective
Perching Machine True Shape Nimisha  To inspect the fabric on perch m/c and to
find out the visual defect.
 To measure the fabric as per (cutting
instruction) market requirement.
 To make perch report as per specification.
Seal Stamping True Shape  To stamp the selvedge of the fabric with
Machine paper transfer in every two meters regular
interval.
Tube Roll Machine True Shape Comet  To make roll of fabric on plastic
tube/corrugated as per market requirements.
Double Fold Swastik  To fold fabric in double width form for first
Machine PC. Inspection as well as hand fold.
Roll Fold Machine True Shape  To warp the fabric on grey board as per
market requirements and producing units.
 To warp fabric in double fold form on grey
board.
Hand Pallet Truck Macneill  To deliver goods from one place to another.
Quality Control
TEXTILE QUALITY CONTROL EXPERTS:
Quality control: AQM performs quality control and inspection services for
different customers from all over the world by using international standards such

as ISO 2859.
Conformity: Checking of conformity with pre- production sample( PPS ) and other
technical files.
Quality: Checks for defects and classifies them accordingly.
Measurement: Following the measuring chart, size of each product is measured .
Packaging: Checks the quantity of cartons, size of cartons, their shipping etc .
QUALITY COST:
4 broad groups:
 Prevention costs
 Appraisal costs
 Internal failure costs
 External failure costs
Quality control systems:

 On-line qcs
 Off-line qcs
ON- LINE QCS

Comprises of Raw material quality control and process control.
Raw material control: Fabric must be without fault, proper absorbency, whiteness etc. The grey
inspection report gives the condition of the raw fabric.
Process control: Specific gravity, residual hydrogen peroxide etc. must be checked at each stage.

OFF- LINE QCS
 Off line tests for finished fabrics can be grouped into: Physical tests and Chemical test.
 Physical tests are GSM test, shrinkage test, spirality test, tensile strength, abrasion resistance,
pilling, etc.
 Chemical tests are Color fastness to washing, lighting, heat, chlorinated water, water spotting,
Ph test, fibre analysis, etc.
QUALITY PARAMETERS FOR WOVEN FABRICS
 Dimensional characteristics: Length, width, thickness

 Weight of the fabric: per unit length, per unit area
 Fabric strength and extensibility: Tensile strength and tearing strength
 Threads per inch of fabric: Ends and picks per inch
 Yarn count: Warp and weft count
 Handle: Stiffness, drape
 Abrasion resistance
 Water resistance
 Shrinkages
 Air permeability
 Fastness properties: Fatness to light, washing, rubbing etc.

Conclusion
Raymond Group is one of India‘s largest branded fabric and fashion retailers. It is one of the leading,
integrated producers of suiting fabric in the world, with a capacity of producing 31 million meters of
wool and wool blended fabrics. The main aim for setting up the unit at Chhindwara has been to
manufacture world -class polyester-wool and polyester-viscose blended suiting and furnishing
fabrics at competitive prices.
We learnt about the flow process sequence of every step from spinning to fabric production and
packing. We were introduced to the technical terminologies and details about all the processes.
The Human –Resource department was efficient, helpful and worker friendly. Textile internship at
Raymond Pvt Ltd. Chhindwara was definitely knowledgeable and gave us an exposure.

RAYMOND LTD TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

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NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, KANGRA

Raymond Limited | Textile Internship Report 1 | P a g e

requirement for completion of Bachelor‘s Degree in Fashion Technology (Apparel production), of

other source. Material wherever borrowed has been duly acknowledge.

Signature of Students Signature of Mentor

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 To understand the complete Textile Manufacturing Process, Mechanism and to run it

 Knowledge about the company

 Understanding the company‘s process flow in production.

 To get the Practical Interface of Industry by applying theoretical concepts.

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S. No. Content Page No.

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GROUP OF COMPANIES OWNED BY RAYMOND

JOINT VENTURES OF RAYMOND

 Raymond UCO Denim Private Ltd.

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Raymond Ltd. Caters to 7 types of markets, which are:

 Civil Market: Domestic market of India.

 Institutional Market: For private companies, defense, etc.

CLIENTS / BUYERS OF RAYMOND

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LOCATIONS OF MANUFACTURING PLANTS

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 To establish a large – scale unit in a backward area.

 To ensure all – round socio – economic progress of the region.

 To provide additional sources of employment to people in and around Chhindwara district.

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Principle of working of Designing Department:

Process Flow Chart

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New cloth card:

Length Card/Feeler Card:

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Types of sustainable fabric by Raymond Ltd.

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Allotment of Bulk Shade

Mainly Raymond‘s works with two major markets

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Yarn Sampling (Process Flow)

Fabric Sampling (Process Flow)

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The RMG has three sections:

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GREASY AND SCOURED WOOL 1.2 + 3.5 Tons

WASTE RECEIVED FROM EACH DEPARTMENT

Converter All Wool Soft

Dyeing Dyeing Soft

Recombing T/W Soft

P/V Spinning P/V Soft

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Weaving W/G Selvedge

6. Storing of wastes in RMG

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White Sparkle and Normal 700

Black Sparkle and Normal 350