Fibers:

Natural

Wool

Cotton

Silk

Bombyx Mori Catipillers.

Developed in China.

Linen

Synthetic fibers

created to make a more affordable alternative to silk.

Two types

Cellulistic and non-cellulistic

Cellulistic

Rayon

Developed 1886. Popular 1924.

Originally called artificial silk.

Strong when dry. Weak when wet. Hand wash.

Wrinkles easily. Most absorbent of all fabrics. (Quick dye, slow dry)

Flammable

Acetate

Dries quickly. Doesn’t take dye well.

Resistant to wrinkles.

Non-cellulistic

Based own petroleum/plastic.

Nylon

Developed by Dupont in 1927

1940 Nylon hosiery developed.

Most widely used synthetic.

Often blended with cotton/wool/etc for durability.

Strongest used for clothes. Resilient- stretches and doesn’t wrinkle.

Dries easily, more difficult to die.

“Pills” (balls)

Polyester

Developed 1939-1941

1946 Dupont secured exclusive rights to make in US. “Dacron”

1953 Commercially available.

Most commercially liked/used by public.

Difficult to die. Difficult to die multiple pieces the same way.

Extremely resilient, doesn’t breathe well.

Thermoplastic, “pills” like nylon.

Blending with poly makes any garment easier to care for.

“Polyfill” - stuffing.

Acrylic

Developed to mimic wool.

Distributed in 1950.

Acrylic fibers are lightweight and springy. Strong and durable.

Low moisture absorbency- easier to dry, difficult to die.

Can melt.

Spandex

 Lycra

Introduced 1958.

Used in foundation garments, swimwear, dancewear.

Will stretch more than 500% length of its staple.

Blended to make garments more stretchy.

Durable, lightweight, stretchy.

Use light heat.

Weaving

Weights and levers “create the shed” by pulling threads a part.

Selveldge point

Where the thread turns

Grain

Created by Warp Threads

Cross Grain

Weft (Woof)

Bias Thread

Diagonal across

Plain Weave

Think construction paper weave.

In and out and in and out

Faille

Weft faced, plain woven.

Twill

Four Threads

Diagonal/zig zag

Harris Tweeds, Herringbone, Denim, etc.

Satin Weave

Threads float over the warp and supportive underneath.

Shiny on one side, flat on another.

Only weave where fabric name is the same.

Fashion Side

Side the designer wants the audience to see

Jacquards

Brocade

Damask

Brocade out of one color.

Pile Woven

Velvet, Corduroy, etc.

Knap

Two different looks/colors.

Lay down vs brush against.

Velveteen

Pile Woven from cotton.