Unit

3 Stitches in
Aari  Work

Introduction
The basic stitch used in aari work is chain stitch. It is the
foundation of all the other stitches of aari embroidery.
The steps of doing chain stitch are discussed in this
unit in detail. Aari work can be done with any variety
of threads like silk, cotton, zari, wool, etc. But to begin
with, zari is preferable, to avoid frequent breakage of
thread. Chain stitch is worked from the bottom of the
fabric towards the front side or top side of the fabric
attached on adda. The thick chain (madhkan), paani
and butt filling, fansa chain, open chain, etc., are all
chain variations.
Bead and sequin work is quite simple. While doing
chain stitch itself, bead or sequin is dropped in each
loop of the chain to generate a line or series of beads or
sequins. Beads and sequins are available in variety of
shapes and sizes. One can select them as per usage in
the design. For beadwork, longer tip needles are used to
collect multiple beads together in it. Similarly, sequins
of different diameters are available which can be used
as per need.

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Fig. 3.1(a) Chain stitch Fig. 3.1(b) Chain stitch
formation (step –1)
Fig. 3.1(e) Chain stitch Fig. 3.1(f) Chain stitch
formation (step –5)
42
Unit 3.indd 42
Session 1: Basic Aari  Work
(a) Chain stitch
Mainly, the basic stitch used in adda work is chain
stitch. The following are the steps of making a chain
loop with an aari needle:
Step 1: Insert the aari through the fabric to the backside
of the fabric attached on the adda (frame) mostly with
the right hand, and in the mean time the thread is seized
in the left hand under the fabric.
Step 2: Catch the thread in the hook.
Step 3: Bring it all the way through to the front, without
letting go the thread in your left hand.
Step 4: Rotate the hook to the opposite side.
Fig. 3.1(c) Chain stitch Fig. 3.1(d) Chain stitch
formation (step –2) formation (step –3) formation (step –4)
Step 5: Insert the needle looped tip
a short distance ahead and on the
design line. Keep your stitch the
same size.
Step 6: Place the thread around the
hook of the needle.
Step 7: Now, make a complete turn
around the hook.
Step 8: Turn the hook opposite
clockwise.
Step 9: Bring the hook up above on
formation (step –6)
the fabric.
Hand Embroiderer (Addawala) – Class IX
11-07-2018 10:26:40
 Fig. 3.1(g) Chain stitch Fig. 3.1(h) Chain stitch Fig. 3.1(i) Chain stitch Fig. 3.1(j) Chain stitch
formation (step –7) formation (step –8) formation (step –9) formation (step –10)

Fig. 3.1(k) Chain stitch

Fig. 3.1(l) Chain stitch Fig. 3.1(m) Chain stitch Fig. 3.1(n) Chain stitch
formation (step –11)
formation (step –12) formation (step –13) final look

Step 10: Remember to keep the thread slightly straight.

Step 11: Rotate the hook opposite, again clockwise.
Step 12: Insert the hook again a small distance
ahead.
Step 13: Turn over again a full loop around the
aari tip and start again from step 7.

(b) Padded chain stitch (load filling

stitch)
To create a padded chain stitch, we need pipeing
thread, fabric glue and aari. The basic stitch used
to make padded stitch is the chain stitch. Fig.  3.2 Padded chain stitch — final look

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 As per the selected design, pipeing thread is cut
and fabric glue is applied to it. Paste this thread on the
desired area. Now, to cover the pipeing thread, simple
stitches or elongated chain stitches are made over the
pipeing thread. Outline and finish using chain stitch in
zari thread giving it a padded effect.

(c) Sequin work

Sequins are disk-shaped material
used for ornamentation purpose and
are usually made from plastic. They
are available in different colours and
shapes. Mainly, sequins have a hole
in the centre. Paillettes are sequin like
and are commonly very large and flat.
Sequins can be attached while making
loops of the chain stitch. Sequins are
put on the fabric attached to adda and
while taking the loop for chain, it is
also taken in the loop. Sequins may
be sewed flat to the fabric, using aari
or embroidery needle so that they do
not shift, and are less likely to drop or
Fig. 3.3 Sequin work
they may be sewed at only one point,
so that they hang, swing and move
very easily, to grab more light. Some
sequins are made with multiple facets,
to increase their reflective ability.

Fig. 3.4 Beadwork
(d) Beadwork
It is an attractive art of embroidering
small beads into a range of aesthetically
pleasant patterns. In this type of work,
very small and uniform coloured beads
are attached to delicate garments
or other fabrics. Each bead is just a
part of a large design, and the overall
design creates the impact, rather than
a single bead. The artistry and the skill
depend on the design, construction
and implementation of the article.

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 Bead embroidery of different areas can be recognised Notes
easily by the design, colour and size of the beads, and
the methods of its creation. This is done by aari or fine
hook needle, by adding beads in a chain stitch thread
while working on the fabric. In aari work, the beads are
stitched to the upper right side of the fabric where the
loops of the chain stitch are made. The thread is tied
through each bead as the stitches are created.
Once the aari embroidery is completed, it is carefully
checked for errors and accidental defects or problems
in order to achieve zero defect final products. All the
steps of manufacturing should be strictly supervised by
experienced quality control professionals, who ensure
perfect execution of the task. One must make sure that
the raw material and end products fulfill the quality
standards and safety norms.

Practical Exercises
Activity 1
Prepare a sample of chain stitch and beadwork.
Materials Required
1. A floral design of size 5” × 5” on tracing paper
2. Fabric sample
3. Beads/poth of any colour
4. Aari for beadwork
5. Cotton thread/zari matching the colour of beads
6. Sheet of A3 size
7. Adda or frame
Procedure
1. Transfer the floral design on the fabric sample using any
tracing method.
2. Outline the design line using chain stitch and beadwork
(follow the instructions of doing the chain stitch as mentioned
in the session).
3. Finish the edges of the sample and attach it on the sheet.

Activity 2
Prepare a sample of sequin work.
Materials Required
1. An abstract design of size 5” × 5” on the tracing paper
2. Fabric sample

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 Notes 3. Sequin of multiple colours, shapes and sizes
4. Aari for sequin work
5. Cotton thread or zari
6. Sheet of A3 size
7. Adda or frame
Procedure
1. Transfer the abstract design on the fabric sample using any
tracing method.
2. Outline and fill the design using chain stitch and sequin of
multiple colours (follow the instructions of doing the chain
stitch as mentioned in the session).
3. Finish the edges of the sample and attach it on the sheet.

Check Your Progress

A. Fill in the blanks

1. The basic stitch used in aari work is _________________ stitch.

2. __________________ are disk-shaped 

material used for
decorative purposes.

3. In aari work, the beads are attached to the ________ ________

side of the fabric where the chain stitch is formed.

B. Questions
1. Explain the padded chain stitch.
2. Explain beadwork and sequin work.
3. Explain with figures, the steps of making a chain stitch.

46 Hand Embroiderer (Addawala) – Class IX

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