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Eco-friendly Dyeing of Wool with a

Mixture of Natural Dyes
a a a
M. M. Kamel , F. Abdelghaffar & M. M. El-Zawahry
a
Textile Research Division , National Research Centre , Cairo, Egypt
Published online: 02 Dec 2011.
To cite this article: M. M. Kamel , F. Abdelghaffar & M. M. El-Zawahry (2011) Eco-friendly

Dyeing of Wool with a Mixture of Natural Dyes, Journal of Natural Fibers, 8:4, 289-307, DOI:
10.1080/15440478.2011.627114
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Journal of Natural Fibers, 8:289–307, 2011
Copyright © Taylor & Francis Group, LLC
ISSN: 1544-0478 print/1544-046X online
DOI: 10.1080/15440478.2011.627114
Eco-friendly Dyeing of Wool with a Mixture

of Natural Dyes
M. M. KAMEL, F. ABDELGHAFFAR, and M. M. EL-ZAWAHRY

Textile Research Division, National Research Centre, Cairo, Egypt
Downloaded by [Clarkson University] at 12:47 10 October 2013
The extraction of natural dye from a mixture of Terminalia arjuna

fruits and Madder with different percentage w/w (80:20%, 70:30%
and 50:50%) was optimized and the resulting extract was used
to further optimize its dyeing conditions on wool by exhaust
method. The purpose of this study is to develop an environmentally
friendly dyeing process and good fastness properties. Dyeing with-
out any mordant was compared with those obtained with the three
different mordanting methods using various metal salts and com-
bination of these salts. The dyeing behaviors of different mordants
and combination of mordants have been studied with respect to
their influence on color and fastness properties. It was found that
as the percentage of Madder increased in the mixture from 0,
20%, 30%, and 50%, a better color strength was obtained and
a bathochromic shift was also obtained from mustard brown to
reddish brown shades. Furthermore, dyeing with mordants and
combination of mordants has moderate to very good fastness prop-
erties. Finally, the mechanisms of mordant interaction with wool
fiber have been briefly considered.
KEYWORDS natural dyes, wool fiber, mordant combinations,

dyeing properties
INTRODUCTION
Wool fibers consist of keratin proteins that are made of 18 amino acids, and
these amino acids bring both free amino and carboxylic acid groups into
Address correspondence to F. Abdelghaffar, Textile Research Division, National Research

Centre, Dokki, Cairo, PO 12622, Egypt. E-mail: fatma-abdelghaffar@hotmail.com
289
290 M. M. Kamel et al.
wool proteins. The free amino groups existing in the proteins have been
employed as main sites for interactions in acid dyeing of wool fibers, since
the amino groups could form cationic amine salts under acidic conditions
(Zhu and Sun 2004).
Natural dyes are generally environmentally friendly and have many
advantages over synthetic dyes (Deo and Paul 2003). In recent years, there
has been an interest manifested towards the application of these dyes due
to their bio-degradability and higher compatibility with the environment, as
such, the demand for natural dyes is increasing day by day (Teli et al. 2000;
El-Zawahry and Kamel 2001; Paul et al. 2005; Kamel et al. 2009). Although
vegetable dyes cannot replace synthetic dyes, they have several advantages
over synthetic dyes with regard to health, safety, and ecology.
Nowadays, the use of natural mordant dyes is mostly confined to
wool, on which the dyes, in conjunction with a metallic mordant, provide

deep shades of characteristically excellent wet and light fastness. Although
mordant dyes are similar to non-metallized acid dyes, they contain ligands
(OH, NH2 , COOH) that enable them to form a stable, coordination complex
with a metal ion in situ within the wool fiber, accompanied by a dramatic
improvement in both the light and washing fastness, as well as a marked
change in the color strength of the dyed wool fabric.
Terminalia arjuna (T.a.; combretaceae) is a large evergreen tree with a
spreading crown and drooping branches. In India, it is very commonly found
in Chhota Nagpur area, Baitful in Madhya Pradesh, and also in Dehradun
(Gogte 2000).
The fruits and bark of different species of Terminalia trees have been
used since the Vedic period (1500–500 BC) for the treatment of various heart
diseases. Recently, T. arjuna was also used in the treatment of cancer. The
plant exhibits fungicidal, antimicrobial, and antibacterial activity and helps in
infertility and immuno-deficiency virus induced diseases (Singh et al. 2002).
Moreover, the extract of the T. arjuna barks was used as a potential source
of natural antioxidants in food (Sultana et al. 2007).
Madder (Jäger et al. 2006; Farizadeh et al. 2009), the root of Rubia tinc-
torum L., is a source of a natural dye producing a variety of anthraquinone
pigments in its roots and rhizomes. The main components are di- and tri-
hydroxyanthraquinones, alizarin, and purpurin and their derivatives. It has
traditionally been used for imparting a variety of shades of red and brown
on cotton, wool, and silk in conjunction with a number of different
mordants.
The aim of this work was to elucidate the effect of combined natural
dyes such as T. arjuna and Madder fruits with different percentage on the
color strength of wool fabric to optimize the extractability and dyeability
conditions as well. Furthermore, the dyeing and mordanting characteristics
of coloring matter on wool fabric have also been studied to improve the
fastness properties.
Eco-friendly Dyeing of Wool 291
MATERIALS AND METHODS

Dyes
TERMINALIA ARJUNA FRUITS
Fresh fruits of Terminalia arjuna (T.a.), as shown in Figure 1, were collected

from Giza in Egypt during the spring season. The hard fruits were dried at
room temperature, crushed, and finally fine ground using a mechanical mill.
MADDER ROOT
Madder root, as shown in Figure 2, was purchased from a local market,

crushed, and finally fine ground using a mechanical mill.
Fabrics
Scoured and bleached wool fabrics (plain weave, 300 g/m2 ) were sup-
plied by Misr Co. for spinning and weaving (Mehalla El- Kubra). The fabric
samples were scoured before use as discussed below.
Scientific name: Terminalia arjuna

Family: Combretaceae
Common Name: Arjuna, Arjun gachh (Beng.), Arjuna Myrobalan (Eng.)
Part used: Fruit
FIGURE 1 The structure and photo of Terminalia arjuna fruits used in this study (color
figure available online).
Scientific name: Rubia tinctorum L.

Family: Rubiaceae
Common name: Madder root
Part used: Root
FIGURE 2 The structure and photo of Madder dyes used in this study (color figure available
online).
Mordants
The mordants used for dyeing were potassium aluminum sulfate, potassium
dichromate, chromic chloride, copper sulfate, copper acetate, stannous
chloride, ferrous sulfate, and ferric chloride, which were of pure laboratory
grades.
Methods
SCOURING OF WOOL
The fabric was washed for 30 min in a bath containing 0.5 g/L sodium
carbonate and 2 g/L of a non-ionic detergent (Hostapal C.V., Hoechest) at
40–45◦ C, to remove any impurities. The fabric was then thoroughly washed
with water and air-dried at ambient temperature. The scoured fabric was
soaked in tap water for 5 min prior to dyeing or mordanting.
EXTRACTION OF COLORING MATTER
To extract the coloring matter, 5 g/L of a mixture of T.a. fruits and Madder
dyes (M) (wt/wt) were mixed well in different percentages (80:20%, 70:30%,
50:50%) and then boiled in 100 mL water for 60 min. The extract solution
was filtered before using as a dyebath.
MORDANTING METHOD
Different common mordant salts are used with the permitted concentrations
that are given in the literature (Corbman 1985; Cannon and Cannon 1994) for
environmentally friendly textiles [1.6 g/L for aluminum salts + 2mL formic
acid, 0.6 g/L for chrome salts + lactic acid, 0.4 g/L for copper salts + glacial
acetic acid, 0.8 g/L for tin salts and 1 g/L for iron salts]. The three mordanting
methods that were carried out are as follows:
Pre- mordanting (I): The mordant was dissolved and added to a bath
of water with L.R. 1:50. The pH of the bath was adjusted to 4 with acetic
acid. The soaked wool fabrics were entered into the mordant solution and
the whole bath was brought slowly to boil for 1 h. It was then allowed
to cool at room temperature and the fabrics were removed and squeezed.
Mordant fabrics should be used at once because some mordant are very
sensitive to light.
Simultaneous mordanting and dyeing (II): The mordant was first dis-
solved and then added to a bath containing the extracted dye, and then
pH of the bath was adjusted to 4 with acetic acid. The soaked fabrics were
then added and the whole bath was brought slowly to nearly boil for 1 h.
The fabrics were then rinsed under tap water and washed as usual.
Post-mordanting (III): First, the soaked fabric was added to a bath
containing the extracted dye in which the pH was adjusted to 4 with
acetic acid at boil for 50 min. Secondly, the dyed fabric was lifted out
while the dissolved mordant salts were added to the bath for the final
10 min of the dyeing process. Finally, the dyed fabric was rinsed and
washed with tap water.
MORDANT COMBINATIONS
The following seven mordant combinations were used for wool dyeing:
1. Copper sulfate + stannous chloride

2. Potassium alum. sulfate + stannous chloride
3. Ferrous sulfate + stannous chloride
4. Potassium dichromate + stannous chloride
5. Copper sulfate + potassium dichromate
6. Ferrous sulfate + potassium dichromate
7. Copper sulfate + ferrous sulfate
CONCENTRATION OF MORDANTS
The above mentioned mordant combinations (El-Zawahry and Kamel 2001;

Bains et al. 2007; Pruthi et al. 2008) were used in the ratio 1:1. Also, the total
amount of the two mordants in each combination was used in the following
concentration:
1. 0.3 g + 0.3 g/L

2. 0.4 g + 0.4 g/L
3. 0.3 g + 0.3 g/L
4. 0.3 g + 0.3 g/L
5. 0.2 g + 0.2 g/L
6. 0.3 g + 0.3 g/L
7. 0.2 g + 0.2 g/L
Each of the seven mordant combinations mentioned above were used with
all the three mordanting methods namely pre-mordanting (I), simultaneous
mordanting (II), and post-mordanting for dyeing (III).
Dyeing
DYEING OF WOOL
Wool fabric (0.5 g) was dyed with a mixture of natural coloring matter
extracted from T.a. fruits and Madder root in three different percentages
as mentioned above using L.R. 1:50. This study was employed at different
pHs, concentrations of glauber salt, dyeing durations, and temperatures as
shown later. The fabrics were added to the dyeing bath at 40◦ C; then the
temperature was raised to 60◦ C during 10 min; after that, the temperature
was raised to 100◦ C during 30 min.
The fabrics were then dyed for 1 h at the boil, then rinsed with cold
water, and washed for 30 min in a bath containing 2 g/L of a non-ionic
detergent at 50–60◦ C at L.R. 1:50. Finally, the fabrics were then rinsed and
air dried.
MEASUREMENTS AND ANALYSIS

Color Measurements of the Dyed Fabrics
The color strength of the dyed samples was evaluated by a light reflectance
technique using the Perkin-Elmer, UV/Vis Spectrophotometer (Model,
Lambda 3B). The relative color strength (K/S values) was assessed using
the Kubelka-Munk equation (Judd and Wysezchi 1975) at the λmax of the
dye percentage used:
(1 − R)2
K/S =
2R
where R is the decimal fraction of the reflectance of the dyed fabric, K the
absorption coefficient, and S the scattering coefficient.
Fastness Properties
The dyed samples were tested according to ISO standard methods. The
specific tests were ISO 105-X12 (1987), color fastness to rubbing; ISO 105-
C02 (1989), color fastness to washing; and ISO 105-E04 (1989), color fastness
to perspiration.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Optimization of Extraction Conditions
EFFECT OF DIFFERENT PERCENTAGE OF NATURAL DYE
As shown in Figure 3, it is clear that the mustard brown shade of T.a. 100%
is significantly shifted to a more reddish brown color as the percentage of
Madder in natural dye mixture increased from 20% to 50% and due to that
the K/S value also increased. This bathochromic shift (red shift) of the T.a.
dye solution in the mixture of T.a. and Madder with different percentage
from λmax 355 nm to 395 nm visible absorption band may be attributed
mainly to alizarin present in Madder, which contains eight conjugated π -
electron pairs that shift the mustard brown color to reddish brown color
as the concentration of Madder in the dye mixture increased and the K/S
values increased accordingly.
EFFECT OF EXTRACTION TIME
The effect of extraction time on the extractability of the mixture of T.a. fruits
and Madder (5 g mixture wt/wt/100 mL water) with different percentages
12
10
6
K/S
4
0
355 370 380 395 410
T.a. :Madder
T.a. :Madder
T.a. :Madder
100% T.a.
80:20%
70:30%
50:50%
Madder
100%
Wavelength (nm)
FIGURE 3 Effect of different percent of natural dye (color figure available online).
7.5
7
6.5
6
5.5
K/S 5
4.5
4
80:20 % T.a.:M
3.5
70:30 % T.a.:M
3 50:50 % T.a.:M
2.5
10 20 30 60 90 120
Extraction time (min)
T.a.: Terminalia arjuna, M: Madder
FIGURE 4 Effect of extraction time (color figure available online).

[80:20, 70:30, and 50:50] was noted at different time intervals (10–120 min).
Dyeing was carried out using 10 g/L glauber salt, pH 4, and L.R. 1:50 for
60 min at the boil. The dyed samples were rinsed and washed for 30 min in
a bath containing 3 g/L of a non-ionic detergent at 90◦ C.
As shown in Figure 4, it is clearly indicated that the color strength
maximum value is at 60 min extraction time. A further increase in time results
in decrease in color strength. This may be attributed to the decomposition
of coloring component at longer times at high temperature (100◦ C).
EFFECT OF DYE AMOUNT
Wool fabrics were dyed at different dye amount (1.5–25 g mixture/100 mL

water) and extracted for 60 min at 100◦ C, pH 4, and L.R. 1:50. The dyed
samples were rinsed and washed for 30 min in a bath containing 3 g/L of a
non-ionic detergent at 90◦ C.
Figure 5 shows that increase in dye amount in 100 mL water leads to
increase in the yield of the extracted dye accompanied with the increase in
color strength and depth in color hue. The results of K/S values in Figure 5
show that the maximum extractability was attained with 10 g/100 mL of
water using three different percentage mixtures, but the highest K/S value
then levels off above this concentration.
Optimization of Dyeing Conditions

EFFECT OF DYEBATH P H
The dyeing of wool fabric was carried out using the optimum value of
extractability (10 g mixture/100 mL water) with different percentages of T.a.
fruits and Madder for 60 min at the boil.
9
8
7
6
K/S
5
80:20 % T.a.:M
4
70:30 % T.a.:M
3 50:50 % T.a.:M
2
1.5 2.5 5 10 15 20 25
Dye amount (g/100ml)
FIGURE 5 Effect of dye amount (color figure available online).

8.5
8
7.5
7 80:20 % T.a.:M
6.5 70:30 % T.a.:M
K/S 50:50 % T.a.:M
6
5.5
5
4.5
4
4 4.5 5 5.5 6 6.5 7
pH
FIGURE 6 Effect of dyebath pH (color figure available online).
Figure 6 shows the effect of the pH values (4–7) of the dyebath on the
color strength obtained by different dye mixture extract. As can be observed,
the highest color strength is obtained at pH 4. The effect of dyebath’s pH
can be attributed to the correlation between the dye structure and wool.
Since the mixtures of the two natural dyes used act as an acid dye, it would
interact ionically with the protonated terminal amino groups of the wool
fabrics at acidic medium (pH 4) via electrostatic dye attraction. In addi-
tion, additional interactions take place together with ionic forces. However,
above pH 4 this ionic interaction decreased due to the decreasing number
of protonated terminal amino groups of wool fabrics and thus lowering its
dyeability.
10
7
K/S
6
5
80:20 % T.a.:M
4 70:30 % T.a.:M
50:50 % T.a.:M
3
0 0.25 0.5 1 1.5 2 3 4
Concentration of salt (g/100ml)
FIGURE 7 Effect of salt concentration (color figure available online).
EFFECT OF SALT CONCENTRATION
Figure 7 shows the effect of salt concentration on the dyeability of wool

fabrics. It is clearly indicated that in the absence of salt the color strength is
higher than when salt is added. Moreover, as the salt concentration increased
the color strength decreased in the different percentages of dye mixture.
EFFECT OF DYEING TEMPERATURE
The effect of temperature on the dyeability of the wool fabrics with mixture
of T.a. fruits and Madder with different percentages was conducted at differ-
ent temperatures (60–100◦ C). As shown in Figure 8, it is clear that the color
strength (K/S) values increases with increasing the dyeing temperature and
reaches a maximum value at 100◦ C. Generally, the increase in dye uptake at
100◦ C can be explained by fiber swelling which enhanced the dye diffusion.
EFFECT OF DYEING TIME
The effect of dyeing time on color strength is demonstrated in Figure 9. As

can be observed, the color strength obtained increased as the dyeing time
increases and reaches a maximum value at 60 min. A plateau is attained
above 60 min and no change in K/S value occurs beyond 60 min.
In order to study the effect of mordants and combination of mordants
on the compatibility of the three mordanting methods of the mixture of T.a.
and Madder dyeing bath, we select a dye mixture extract with 80% T.a. and
20% Madder in the subsequent study.
9.5
8.5
7.5
6.5
K/S
5.5
4.5 80:20 % T.a.:M

70:30 % T.a.:M
3.5 50:50 % T.a.:M
2.5
60 70 80 90 100
Dyeing temperature (°C)
FIGURE 8 Effect of dyeing temperature (color figure available online).
10
7
K/S
6
5 80:20 % T.a.:M
70:30 % T.a.:M
4 50:50 % T.a.:M
3
15 30 40 50 60 90
Dyeing time (min)
FIGURE 9 Effect of dyeing time (color figure available online).
EFFECT OF MORDANTS
The wool fabrics dyed with mixture of T.a. fruits and Madder (80:20%) at the
optimum value obtained as described earlier were mordanted with different
mordants using three method: pre-mordanting (I), simultaneous mordanting
and dyeing, (II) and post-mordanting (III). The different common mordant
salts are used with the permitted concentration as given in the literature for
environmentally friendly textiles.
Almost impairing a percentage of Madder root in T.a. fruit dyeing
bath with 20% increased the complexing of the ionized O–dihydroxy groups
with metal salts (mordant) additionally to O–dihydroxy groups of T.a. fruits
TABLE 1 Effect of Different Types of Mordants on the Color Strength (K/S) of Wool Fabric
Dyed with Natural Coloring Matter Extracted from Mixture of T.a. Fruits and Madder Dyes
(80:20%)
Concentration Mordanting method (K/S)
of mordant
Mordant g/L I II III
– – 6.39 6.39 6.39

Potassium aluminum sulfate 1.6 4.93 3.63 4.60
Potassium dichromate 0.6 7.80 3.13 4.31
Chromic chloride 0.6 4.86 3.64 4.86
Stannous chloride 0.8 6.28 4.10 4.86
Copper sulfate 0.4 6.08 5.53 6.39
Copper acetate 0.4 5.89 5.79 6.84
Ferrous sulfate 0.1 6.18 6.39 8.46
Ferric chloride 0.1 5.07 4.00 6.18
I = Pre-mordant method; II = Simultaneous mordant method; III = Post-mordant method.
with metal salts. These mordants are mainly responsible for fixation of the
dye on the fabrics and improved wash and light fastness. Besides, a wide
range of color can be obtained by using different mordants thus leading to
change in color strength.
Table 1 shows that potassium aluminum sulfate salt produces the
lower K/S values using the three mordanting methods. This result may
be attributed to aluminum salt forming weak coordination complexes with
the dye, tending to form quite strong bonds with the dye but not with the
fiber. Thus they block the dye and reduce its interaction with the fiber. This
is in accordance with the observed low K/S values in presence of aluminum.
The results from Table 1 also indicate that the higher value of color strength
in case of aluminum salt was obtained using pre-mordant (I) method.
On the other hand, copper and iron exhibited the highest K/S values
due to their ability to form coordination complexes with the dye molecules.
Since, the coordination numbers of copper and iron are 4 and 6 respectively,
some coordination sites remained unoccupied when they interacted with the
fiber. Due to that, active sites of wool fabric (–COOH and –CONH2 ) will
occupy these sites (Bhattacharya and Shah 2000). This strong coordination
tendency leads to enhancing the interaction between the fiber and the dye,
resulting in higher dye uptake. It was also observed that copper and iron
changed shades of dyed fabrics producing deep colors, while all other metals
show similar coordination.
EFFECT OF COMBINATION OF MORDANTS
The wool fabrics dyed with mixture of T.a. fruits and Madder (80:20%) were
mordanted using combination of mordants. In order to determine the effects
of the combinations to produce different shades on wool and also the effects
TABLE 2 Effect of Combination of Mordants on the Color Strength (K/S) of Wool Fabrics
Dyed with Natural Coloring Matter Extracted from Mixture of T.a. Fruits and Madder Dyes
(80:20%)
Mordanting method
Concentration (K/S)
of mordant
Mordant g/L I II III
Copper sulfate + stannous chloride 0.6 6.50 4.42 6.97

Potassium alum. Sulfate + stannous chloride 0.8 6.61 3.00 4.66
Ferrous sulfate + stannous chloride 0.6 6.61 5.53 7.65
Potassium dichromate + stannous chloride 0.6 7.23 2.11 4.86
Copper sulfate + potassium dichromate 0.4 8.10 3.64 6.18
Ferrous sulfate + potassium dichromate 0.6 8.12 2.72 5.53
Copper sulfate + Ferrous sulfate 0.4 6.50 2.77 7.10
of all the metal salts on dyeing activity to improve the fastness properties,
the assay mixture was performed by mixture of metal ions each at the ratio
of 1:1 using the three mordant methods as given in Table 2.
On the other hand, the addition of stannous chloride to copper, iron,
and potassium dichromate salts increased the activity of stannous chloride,
the majority of the samples was revealed by having the color strength of
the combination, which was approximately the same as that obtained with
metals, but with alum the stannous chloride enhanced the color value of
alum in the case of pre-mordant (I) method from 4.93 to 6.61 and in the
case of simultaneous (II) method and post-mordant (III) method the results
were the same.
The same holds true for the addition of potassium dichromate to copper,
iron and alum metal salt. However, it could be seen that the combination
of mordants decreases the amount of mordant salts than that applied sep-
arately. In this process, it may decrease the concentration of mordant
salts used in dyeing with less environmentally challenging combination of
mordant salts to improve the fastness properties.
Dyebath Reuse
A trial was undertaken to take benefit of the residual dyeing bath to produce
a full range of different color strength when a mixture of T.a. fruits and
Madder (80:20%) (10 g/100 mL water) was boiled for 60 min.
Three successive dyeing times are used for untreated and mordant wool
fabric. It is very interesting to obtain different hues using successive dyeing
regardless of color strength; the results are tabulated in Table 3. Generally,
it seems that, from both economic and environmental points of view, reuse
of the dyebath is of great importance.
TABLE 3 Effect of the Reuse Number of the Dyebath
K/S
Concentration
of mordant Mordanting First Second Third
Mordant g/L methods reuse reuse reuse
– – – 5.29 3.19 2.74

Potassium aluminum sulfate 1.6 I 5.07 3.23 2.17
Potassium dichromate 0.6 I 7.50 3.03 2.43
Chromic chloride 0.6 I 5.79 4.00 2.91
Copper sulfate 0.4 III 7.36 3.41 2.54
Copper acetate 0.4 III 7.36 3.68 2.80
Stannous chloride 0.8 I 6.97 3.81 2.48
Ferrous sulfate 1.0 III 7.96 4.37 2.77
Ferric chloride 1.0 III 7.36 4.48 2.30
Combination of mordants
Copper sulfate + stannous chloride
0.4 III 7.50 3.44 2.08

Potassium alum sulfate + stannous 0.8 I 5.29 2.80 2.30
chloride
Ferrous sulfate + stannous chloride 0.8 III 6.61 4.79 3.00
Potassium dichromate + stannous 0.6 I 6.84 2.97 2.45
chloride
Copper sulfate + potassium 0.4 I 6.97 2.91 2.28
dichromate
Ferrous sulfate + potassium 0.6 I 7.10 3.19 1.883
dichromate
Copper sulfate + Ferrous sulfate 0.4 III 7.65 3.68 2.30
Fastness Properties
For better fastness to light and washing, the use of mordants may be essential
for most of natural dyes. The function of the mordant is to assist the adsorp-
tion of the dye and promote good bonding of dye and fiber as a bridge,
which helps to bond fiber and natural dyes at the molecular level. From
Tables 4 and 5, it can be inferred that the dyed samples that were treated
with mordants and combination of mordants had better fastness properties
(washing and light) than the dyed samples without mordants.
In general, it can be seen that wool fabrics dyed with mixture of T.a.
fruits and Madder (80:20%) exhibit good fastness properties. Comparing the
fastness ratings of the samples as given in Tables 4 and 5, fastness values
were improved with mordanting combination method.
CONCLUSIONS
Extraction of a mixture of natural dye from Terminalia arjuna fruits and

Madder with different percentage (w/w) and its dyeing on wool was opti-
mized. Dyeing wool fabric with a mixture of natural dye improved the
TABLE 4 Color Fastness of Standing Dyebath of Wool and Mordant Wool Dyed with a Mixture of T.a. and M. (80:20%)
Rubbing
Number Wash fastness Alkali perspiration Acid perspiration fastness Light fastness
of reuse
∗ ∗∗ ∗ ∗∗ ∗ ∗∗
Mordant dyebath St.. St.. Alt St.. St.. Alt St.. St.. Alt Dry Wet 35 h 50 h 65 h
Control (100% T.a.) 1 3 3 3–4 3–4 3–4 4 4 4–5 4 4 3–4 4–5 5 5
2 3 2–3 3–4 3–4 2–3 3–4 4 4 4 3–4 3 5 4–5 3–4
3 2–3 2–3 4 3–4 2–3 4 4 3–4 4 3 3 4–5 4 3–4
Blank (80:20% T.a.:M) 1 3 3 3–4 2–3 2 3 3–4 3 3–4 3 2–3 3–4 4 3
2 3 2–3 3–4 2–3 2 3–4 4 3–4 3–4 3 3 3–4 3–4 3
3 3–4 3 4 3–4 3 3–4 4 3 3–4 3–4 2–3 3–4 4 3
Chromic chloride 1 3 2–3 3 2 2 3 3 2 3 2–3 2 3–4 3 2
2 3 3 3–4 2–3 2 3 3–4 3 3–4 3 3 3–4 3 2
3 3 3 3–4 2–3 2–3 3–4 3–4 3 3–4 4 2–3 3 3–4 2–3
Potassium dichromate 1 3 3 3–4 4 3–4 4 3–4 3–4 4 3 3 4 4–5 4
2 3–4 3 3–4 3 2–3 3–4 3–4 3–4 3–4 3 2–3 4–5 4 3
3 3–4 3 4 3 3 4 4 3–4 4 3–4 3 3–4 3 3
Stannous chloride 1 4 3–4 3–4 3–4 3–4 4 4 4 4 3–4 3 4–5 4–5 3–4
303
2 3 3 3–4 3 2 2–4 3–4 3–4 4 3 3 4 3–4 2
3 3–4 3 3–4 3–4 2–3 3–4 4 3–4 4 3–4 2–3 3–4 3 2
Ferrous sulfate 1 3–4 4 3–4 3–4 3 4 3–4 3–4 4 3 2–3 5–6 5 4
2 3–4 3–4 4 3–4 3 3–4 4 3–4 4 3 2–3 5 4–5 4
3 4 3–4 3–4 4 3–4 4 4 3–4 4 4 3 5 4–5 3–4
Ferric chloride 1 3 3 3–4 3 2–3 3–4 3–4 3 3–4 3 2–3 4–5 5 3–4
2 3–4 3–4 3 3–4 3 3–4 4 3–4 4 3 3 5 4–5 4
3 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 2–3 3 4–5 4 3–4
Potassium alum. sulfate 1 3 3 3–4 2 2 3–4 3 3 4 2 2 3–4 3–4 2–3
2 3 2–3 3–4 3 2–3 3–4 3 3 4 3 2 3 3 2
3 3 2–3 3–4 3 2–3 3–4 3–4 3–4 4 3 2–3 3–4 3 2–3
Copper sulfate 1 4 3–4 4 3–4 3 3–4 4 3–4 4 3 2–3 4–5 4–5 4–5
2 4 4 3–4 3 3 3–4 4 3–4 3–4 3 3 4 4 4
3 4 3–4 3–4 4 3 3–4 4 3–4 4 3 3 3–4 3–4 3–4
Copper acetate 1 4 4 3–4 3–4 3 3–4 4 3–4 4 3 2–3 4 4–5 4
2 4 4 3–4 3 2–3 4 4 4 4 3 3 4 4 3–4
3 3–4 4 3–4 3 2–3 3–4 4 3–4 4 3–4 2–3 4–5 4 4
St.. ∗ = Staining on cotton; St..∗∗ = Staining on wool; Alt. = Alteration.
TABLE 5 Color Fastness of Standing Dyebath of Combination of Mordant Wool Dyed with a Mixture of T.a. and M. (80:20%)
Rubbing
Number Wash fastness Alkali perspiration Acid perspiration fastness Light fastness
of reuse
∗ ∗∗ ∗ ∗∗ ∗ ∗∗
Mordant dyebath St.. St.. Alt St.. St.. Alt St.. St.. Alt Dry Wet 35h 50h 65h
Copper sulfate + 1 4 4 4 4 3–4 3–4 4 3–4 4 3 2 5 4 5

stannous chloride 2 4 3–4 4 4 3–4 3–4 4 3–4 4 3–4 3 5 4 4–5
3 4 3–4 3–4 4 3 3–4 4 4 4 3–4 3 4–5 3–4 3–4
Potassium alum 1 3 3 3 2–3 2 3 3–4 3 3–4 2–3 2 3 3 2
sulfate + stannous 2 3 3 3–4 3 2 3–4 3–4 3 3–4 3–4 2–3 3–4 3 2–3
chloride 3 3–4 3 3–4 3–4 2–3 3–4 3–4 3–4 4 4 3 3–4 3 2–3
Ferrous sulfate + 1 4 3–4 3–4 3–4 2–3 3–4 4 3–4 4 3 2–3 5–6 5 4
stannous chloride 2 4 4 4 4 3–4 4 4 3–4 4 3 2 5– 4 4
3 4 3–4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 3–4 2 65 3–4 3
304
Potassium 1 3 2–3 3–4 3–4 3 3–4 4 4 4 2–3 2 4–5 5 4
dichromate + 2 3 2–3 3–4 3–4 3 3–4 3–4 3–4 4 3 2–3 4 4–5 3–4
stannous chloride 3 3 3 3–4 3–4 3 3–4 4 4 4 3–4 3 4–5 4–5 4
Copper sulfate + 1 4 4 4 4 3–4 3–4 4 4 4 2–3 2 5–6 5 4–5
Potassium 2 3–4 4 3–4 3–4 3 3–4 4 3–4 4 3–4 2–3 5 4 4–5
dichromate 3 3–4 3–4 4 3–4 3–4 4 4 3–4 4 3 3 5–6 3–4 4
Ferrous Sulfate + 1 3 2–3 3–4 4 3 4 4 3–4 4 2 2 5 5 4–5
Potassium 2 3 2–3 3 3 2–3 3–4 4 3–4 4 3–4 2–3 5 3–4 3
dichromate 3 3 3 3–4 3–4 3–4 4 3–4 3–4 3–4 3 2–3 5 3–4 3
Copper sulfate + 1 4 3–4 3 4 3–4 4 4 4 4 3–4 2 5–6 4–5 4–5
Ferrous sulfate 2 4 3–4 3–4 4 3–4 4 4 3–4 4 3–4 2–3 5 4 4
3 4 3–4 3–4 4 3 3–4 4 4 4 3–4 2–3 4–5 4–5 4
St.. ∗ = Staining on cotton; St..∗∗ = Staining on wool; Alt. = Alteration.
dyeing effectiveness compared to dyeing with T. arjuna fruits only. It was

found that as the percentage of Madder increased in the mixture from 20%
to 50%, a large number of hydroxyl groups was obtained associated with
a bathochromic shift from mustard yellow to reddish brown shades and
imparting beautiful hues to the dyeing fabrics. Furthermore, the results indi-
cated that dyeing with combination of mordants improved the washing and
light fastness from moderate to very good fastness properties and a large
range of shades was obtained. This result may be attributed to the for-
mation of a large insoluble dye complex of the combination of mordants,
which improved natural dye fixation to the wool fabric. Reuse of the
dyebath for three times was investigated as an eco-friendly process offer-
ing a technical advantage that could help towards establishing this trend in
the dyeing industry.
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APPENDIX
Terminalia arjuna fruits T.a.
Pre-mordant I
Simultaneous mordant II
Post-mordant III

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This article was downloaded by: [Clarkson University]

On: 10 October 2013, At: 12:47

Journal of Natural Fibers

Eco-friendly Dyeing of Wool with a

To cite this article: M. M. Kamel , F. Abdelghaffar & M. M. El-Zawahry (2011) Eco-friendly

To link to this article: http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/15440478.2011.627114

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Eco-friendly Dyeing of Wool with a Mixture

M. M. KAMEL, F. ABDELGHAFFAR, and M. M. EL-ZAWAHRY

The extraction of natural dye from a mixture of Terminalia arjuna

KEYWORDS natural dyes, wool fiber, mordant combinations,

Address correspondence to F. Abdelghaffar, Textile Research Division, National Research

wool, on which the dyes, in conjunction with a metallic mordant, provide

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Fresh fruits of Terminalia arjuna (T.a.), as shown in Figure 1, were collected

Madder root, as shown in Figure 2, was purchased from a local market,

Scientific name: Terminalia arjuna

Scientific name: Rubia tinctorum L.

EXTRACTION OF COLORING MATTER

1. Copper sulfate + stannous chloride

The above mentioned mordant combinations (El-Zawahry and Kamel 2001;

1. 0.3 g + 0.3 g/L

MEASUREMENTS AND ANALYSIS

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

EFFECT OF EXTRACTION TIME

FIGURE 4 Effect of extraction time (color figure available online).

EFFECT OF DYE AMOUNT

Wool fabrics were dyed at different dye amount (1.5–25 g mixture/100 mL

Optimization of Dyeing Conditions

FIGURE 5 Effect of dye amount (color figure available online).

FIGURE 6 Effect of dyebath pH (color figure available online).

FIGURE 7 Effect of salt concentration (color figure available online).

EFFECT OF SALT CONCENTRATION

Figure 7 shows the effect of salt concentration on the dyeability of wool

EFFECT OF DYEING TEMPERATURE

EFFECT OF DYEING TIME

The effect of dyeing time on color strength is demonstrated in Figure 9. As

4.5 80:20 % T.a.:M

FIGURE 8 Effect of dyeing temperature (color figure available online).

FIGURE 9 Effect of dyeing time (color figure available online).

– – 6.39 6.39 6.39

I = Pre-mordant method; II = Simultaneous mordant method; III = Post-mordant method.

EFFECT OF COMBINATION OF MORDANTS

Copper sulfate + stannous chloride 0.6 6.50 4.42 6.97

TABLE 3 Effect of the Reuse Number of the Dyebath

– – – 5.29 3.19 2.74

0.4 III 7.50 3.44 2.08

Extraction of a mixture of natural dye from Terminalia arjuna fruits and

Copper sulfate + 1 4 4 4 4 3–4 3–4 4 3–4 4 3 2 5 4 5

dyeing effectiveness compared to dyeing with T. arjuna fruits only. It was

Terminalia arjuna fruits T.a.

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