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Department Document No Version Page: 1

QAS QAS-FAB01 2 Approval Date:


23/10/14

Effective date:
SOP Quality Control process for 23/10/14
Effective Until
fabric suppliers Further Notice

Document Owner: Andrew Turner


Title : Unit Lead Quality Assurance Sourcing

Approved by: Jeff Macho – Chief Sourcing Office

Author:
Andrew Turner – UL-QAS

Departments Affected:
QAS
QSM
Sourcing Merchandising Teams
Fabric Teams

Version Date Modifications Page


01 18/12/2013 All NEW all

02 23/10/2014 Section on colour Shading and assessment/handling of shading 7&8


updated.
Notes:

__________________________________________________________________________________
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION:
This procedure contains proprietary and confidential information intended only for the use by C&A and its authorized suppliers, sub-contractors and
materials suppliers. The recipient of this procedure shall not disclose any information contained herein to any person other than their employees who
may need to use the information to comply with this policy.
Department Document No Version Page: 2
QAS QAS-FAB01 2 Approval Date:
23/10/14

Effective date:
SOP Quality Control process for 23/10/14
Effective Until
fabric suppliers Further Notice

I/Purpose
This SOP defines clear roles, responsibilities and activities within the organization to manage the
quality control and inspection process for woven fabric. The intention of this SOP is to ensure a
consistent fabric inspection process across all locations and suppliers.

II/Scope
The SOP is applicable for all fabrics undertaken within C&A sourcing.

III/Abbreviations
1. QAS – Quality Assurance Sourcing
2. QSN – Quality Safety Management
3. UL-QAS – Unit Leader – Quality Assurance Sourcing
4. RQM – Regional Quality Manager
5. QAM – Quality Assurance Manager
6. MMS – minimum manufacturing standards

__________________________________________________________________________________
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION:
This procedure contains proprietary and confidential information intended only for the use by C&A and its authorized suppliers, sub-contractors and
materials suppliers. The recipient of this procedure shall not disclose any information contained herein to any person other than their employees who
may need to use the information to comply with this policy.
Department Document No Version Page: 3
QAS QAS-FAB01 2 Approval Date:
23/10/14

Effective date:
SOP Quality Control process for 23/10/14
Effective Until
fabric suppliers Further Notice

IV/ Procedure

Foreword

The fabric supplier must carry out a full inspection of 100% of the to be shipped fabric to ensure
that it complies with the C&A requirements. Only those rolls that meet the C&A requirement can
be shipped as first quality. All rolls that do not meet the inspection criteria must be classed as
second or third choice and segregated from the shipment.

The following process describes the procedure followed by either C&A fabric inspectors or agents
carrying out an inspection on behalf of the fabric mill as required by C&A and is therefore also a
guide for fabric mills to follow when doing their own 100% inspection.

I. Sampling approach for C&A inspection

Fabric lot size in Meters/Yardage Quantity to be inspected


0 to 500 Full quantity (100%)
501 to 1000 50% of the lot
1001 to 2500 20% of the lot
Above 2500 Square root of total yardage of the lot x 8

II. inspection process

 Inspection conditions

Inspection Table and standard viewing conditions


1. Illumination on fabric surface. Over 1000 watts
2. Light Source – Artificial Day Light – D 65
3. Inclination of inspection 45-70 Degrees. (Normally inspected at 45 Degrees)
4. Fabric width if
a. under 50 inches – Inspected by one inspector
b. Over 50 inches – inspected y 2 inspectors
5. Light source must be directly above the inspection surface
6. Distance 3 feet
7. Angle of the inspectors eye level to the inspection machine 45 degrees
8. Speed – This cannot be specified. Inspector should be able to cover the total surface of
the inspection table : (in the normal conditions it should be less than 20 yards per min)

__________________________________________________________________________________
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION:
This procedure contains proprietary and confidential information intended only for the use by C&A and its authorized suppliers, sub-contractors and
materials suppliers. The recipient of this procedure shall not disclose any information contained herein to any person other than their employees who
may need to use the information to comply with this policy.
Department Document No Version Page: 4
QAS QAS-FAB01 2 Approval Date:
23/10/14

Effective date:
SOP Quality Control process for 23/10/14
Effective Until
fabric suppliers Further Notice

 Inspection procedure

1. At the beginning of each roll a 6” full width cutting (head end) should be taken as a colour
reference and also to check for side to centre and side to side shading. The head-end
should be marked with fabric style number, colour, actual length and inspector’s code.
2. Measure useable width edge to edge of fabric at the start, middle and end of the roll
3. Check the recorded length on piece ticket against actual length of roll for variance
4. During inspection, fabric is checked for defects which are rated using the 4 point system as
follows :

Defects up to 3” in length : 1 Point


Defects up to 6” in length : 2 Points
Defects up to 9” in length : 3 Points
Defects over 9” in length : 4 Points

5. The entire shipment will be rejected if 10% of the inspected rolls have faults/points in
excess of the acceptable allowance.
6. The entire shipment will be accepted if the total number of failed rolls is less than 10% of
the total inspected. However the mill must remove all rolls with a point value in excess of
the individual roll allowance.

No linear yard is to be penalized more than 4 points

 When assessing defects the following rules will apply

1. Defects in both the warp and weft direction will receive equal points.
2. All holes, regardless of size will be penalized 4 points.
3. The average point value per shipment should not exceed;

Individual roll / 100 sq. yds. Per shipment / 100 sq. yds.
Group 1 < 20 15
Group 2 < 25 18
Group 3 < 30 23
Group 4 < 40 32
Group 5 50 > 40 >

__________________________________________________________________________________
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION:
This procedure contains proprietary and confidential information intended only for the use by C&A and its authorized suppliers, sub-contractors and
materials suppliers. The recipient of this procedure shall not disclose any information contained herein to any person other than their employees who
may need to use the information to comply with this policy.
Department Document No Version Page: 5
QAS QAS-FAB01 2 Approval Date:
23/10/14

Effective date:
SOP Quality Control process for 23/10/14
Effective Until
fabric suppliers Further Notice

GROUP 1
1. All 100% Filament Synthetic Fabrics, e.g. Polyester, Nylon, Acetate, Rayon
2. Basic Denim, e.g. Open End over 12oz
3. Basic Cotton Fabrics e.g. courser than 1/50’s Ne Yarn Count

GROUP 2
1. Wool - Worsted Spun
2. Basic Cotton Fabrics, Twills etc. e.g. courser than 1/30’s Ne Yarn Count
3. Mid and Light weight Denim - 4 – 12oz
4. Ring Spun Denims over 12oz
5. Synthetic Blends

GROUP 3
1. Cotton Specialty Fabrics, e.g. Corduroy, Seersuckers, Flannel, Velvet.
2. Coated Fabrics.
3. Wool - Woollen Spun.
4. Spun Viscose/Rayon/Lyocel/Tencel

GROUP 4
1. Linens and Linen Blends
2. Silks

GROUP 5
1. Spun Silks
2. Indian Madras, Hand-woven

Note: Record all defects on the inspection worksheet. In addition, all defects must be marked
with a string on the right selvedge of the piece.

 How to calculate points per 100 square yards

Actual points counted x 36” x 100 = points / 100 square yards


Actual Roll Length x Actual with

__________________________________________________________________________________
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION:
This procedure contains proprietary and confidential information intended only for the use by C&A and its authorized suppliers, sub-contractors and
materials suppliers. The recipient of this procedure shall not disclose any information contained herein to any person other than their employees who
may need to use the information to comply with this policy.
Department Document No Version Page: 6
QAS QAS-FAB01 2 Approval Date:
23/10/14

Effective date:
SOP Quality Control process for 23/10/14
Effective Until
fabric suppliers Further Notice

After the inspection is completed, calculate the average point value per 100 square yards by
totalling the points and dividing the number of pieces inspected. This will be the final total points
for this inspection and the total inspection report is entered into the final inspection report.

Note: Certain Defects cannot be fully evaluated using the four point system and these will be
classed as Second quality fabric. These defects include but are not exclusive to;

1. Shading, shade bars, Side to side and end to end colour variation.
2. Skewed/Bowed more than the norms.
3. Uneven dyeing, Blotches, creasing etc.
4. More than 3 Full width wise and/or running length defects.
5. Hand feel of the fabric does not match the approved sample.
6. Any roll measuring less than 30 yards or roll with more than one splice, unless prior
agreement between the fabric mill and the garment supplier has been reached.
7. Noticeable degree of looseness, Ripples, Tightness, pucker, Fold creases etc. in the fabric.

III. Fabric acceptance rules and requirements

 Construction
1. Warp count
Each piece, the number of warp ends per inch should not be ± 4% outside the ordered
construction

2. Weft count
Number of picks per inch should not be more than ± 5% outside the specific ordered
construction

 Bow and Skew on plain fabrics


1. Skew Tolerance 5%
2. Bow Tolerance 2%

 Bows and Skew on pattern fabrics


1. Skew Tolerance 2%
2. Bow Tolerance 2%
3. Hooked Tolerance 2%
4. Double hooked Tolerance 2%
5. Double Bow Tolerance 2%
6. Double Reverse Bow Tolerance 2%
7. Snaky Tolerance 2%

__________________________________________________________________________________
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION:
This procedure contains proprietary and confidential information intended only for the use by C&A and its authorized suppliers, sub-contractors and
materials suppliers. The recipient of this procedure shall not disclose any information contained herein to any person other than their employees who
may need to use the information to comply with this policy.
Department Document No Version Page: 7
QAS QAS-FAB01 2 Approval Date:
23/10/14

Effective date:
SOP Quality Control process for 23/10/14
Effective Until
fabric suppliers Further Notice

 Fabric Weight
As per C&A MMS, weight tolerance is ± 5% as described in ISO 6348

 Fabric Width
Width difference between rolls to the ordered specific width – 1% and +2% (will be measured
from edge to edge including selvedge)

 Hand-feel
The original buyer approved swatch must be available for the fabric inspector or agent to use
as a reference during the inspection. This sample will be provided by the C&A sourcing office.
The inspector will assess hand-feel of the fabric during the inspection

Note: it is necessary to define at order stage yarn count, cloth construction, process flow
and other specific relevant specification requirements

 Colour shading within a roll


The requirement is no visible side to side, side to center or roll length shading.

1. If shading is found within a roll or rolls during the inspection the shaded fabric will be
rejected.
2. The mill must re-inspect all fabric and remove/Quarantine any rolls that have shading.
The mill will inform the fabric merchandiser how much fabric from the total shipment
is rejected for shading.
3. A decision on the commerciality of shaded fabric cannot be taken in isolation in the
country of origin of the fabric; this decision must be taken in conjunction with the
garment maker and the C&A sourcing office in the garment production country.

The assessment of shaded fabric to define an acceptance/rejection/commercial level will be


conducted as follows;

1. The mill will send the garment maker representative samples, a minimum of 10 meters
or a roll/s of shaded fabric in the case of length shading or width shading that varies
throughout the roll.
2. A C&A sourcing representative or appointed third party agent will confirm that the
shaded samples to be sent represent the shading found in the fabric
3. The garment maker will assess the shaded fabric with the C&A Sourcing QAS team (in
the garment production country) and if required conduct a pilot run from the shaded
samples to assess the impact e.g.
__________________________________________________________________________________
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION:
This procedure contains proprietary and confidential information intended only for the use by C&A and its authorized suppliers, sub-contractors and
materials suppliers. The recipient of this procedure shall not disclose any information contained herein to any person other than their employees who
may need to use the information to comply with this policy.
Department Document No Version Page: 8
QAS QAS-FAB01 2 Approval Date:
23/10/14

Effective date:
SOP Quality Control process for 23/10/14
Effective Until
fabric suppliers Further Notice

a. Is the shading commercially acceptable in the garment?


b. If not commercially acceptable in the garment can a special marker be used, to
avoid the shaded fabric?
c. If a special marker cannot be used fabric is rejected and therefore not shipped

4. Standards of rejected or commercially accepted shading (fabric and garment form) will
be sent back to the C&A sourcing fabric technical team for the mill to sort out and
segregate fabric according to the acceptance/rejection given.
5. In the case of a special marker being used, the mill will replace, free of charge, any
fabric shortages
6. In the case of rolls being rejected for shading, the mill will replace all shaded rolls.
7. If as a result of the above the delivery date of the fabric or LDD of the garments is
impacted the mill will be required to cover the cost of airfreighting the fabric and/or
garments.

Note - Shaded panels are not normally allowed in a garment, but in certain styles a small
degree of shading could be deemed as commercial. C&A Sourcing Quality (QAS/QSM) will
assess garments with shaded panels to confirm if they are commercial or not. If needed,
garments will also be shown to the buying team for a further commercial decision.

 Lot & roll wise shading/colour variation


1. Shading from roll to roll must be sorted into individual shade bands and shipped to the
garment maker with rolls clearly marked which shade band they belong to.
2. Any rolls falling outside of the approvable shade bands must be reviewed with the C&A
Sourcing QAS team in the Fabric producing country for commercial acceptance. If
necessary samples falling outside of a commercial shade band will be referred to the
buyer for approval or rejection.
3. Prior to the shipment the shade band must be sent to the supplier (sample card with a
cutting from each of the represented shade bands) and the Fabric Team in local C&A
sourcing office.

 Unacceptable fabric found within the shipment

If fabric with faults in excess of the four point allowance or undeclared shading is found within
the shipped goods.

1. A representative of QAS from the C&A sourcing office will visit the supplier and assess
the disputed fabric.

__________________________________________________________________________________
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION:
This procedure contains proprietary and confidential information intended only for the use by C&A and its authorized suppliers, sub-contractors and
materials suppliers. The recipient of this procedure shall not disclose any information contained herein to any person other than their employees who
may need to use the information to comply with this policy.
Department Document No Version Page: 9
QAS QAS-FAB01 2 Approval Date:
23/10/14

Effective date:
SOP Quality Control process for 23/10/14
Effective Until
fabric suppliers Further Notice

2. If the claim is found to be valid, a sample of fabric will be sent to QAS in the fabric
producing country for review with the mill.
3. A third party agent will be appointed to conduct a further inspection of the fabric, the
result of which will be binding for all parties.
4. Based on the outcome of the third party inspection the fabric will either be;
a. Cut as normal
b. Cut with a special marker
c. Unusable rolls rejected
5. In case of a special marker being used or rolls rejected a representative of the mill
should visit the supplier to finalise details for recompense (additional fabric etc.)

 Packing and shipping marks

1. Minimum length of the rolls 30 yards (within 30 yards, no splits are allowed) / or less when
agreed between fabric supplier and garment supplier
2. Selvedge marking in line with the defects.
3. Requirement for the fabric roll labelling. (In additional to the shipping marks)
3.1 Inspection Points
3.2 Dye methods and lot no
3.3 Length of the roll
3.4 Colour
3.5 Purchase width
3.6 Fabric Grade

__________________________________________________________________________________
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION:
This procedure contains proprietary and confidential information intended only for the use by C&A and its authorized suppliers, sub-contractors and
materials suppliers. The recipient of this procedure shall not disclose any information contained herein to any person other than their employees who
may need to use the information to comply with this policy.

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