CAR MAINTENANCE TIPS

Car Maintenance Tips are very important for car owners to know. They are an
essential part of having a car. Buying expensive cars does not guarantee excellent
condition of the car throughout its life span, until and unless proper maintenance is
carried out. Proper maintenance includes different parameters like maintenance of the
car engine, the car body, the car tyres etc. These are specialized segments of the car
and they need to be regularly maintained properly and at regular intervals as well.
Otherwise, the car won't function properly. And if proper maintenance is done, then the
car will have longevity and will also function properly.

The following are the guidelines for proper car maintenance:

 Going through the owner's manual properly can do car maintenance.

 The car should be serviced at regular intervals. Either in terms of time or
kilometers run.
 The car should be washed everyday and kept clean. This goes for both the
exterior and the interior.
 The mobile oil, the engine oil and break oil should be regularly checked and
changed from time to time.
 For any kind of mechanical problem, the car should be taken to an authorized
service station or to a reputed mechanic.
 If at any, given point of time, any spare parts are required, then it is always
advisable to buy original spare parts rather than the cheap duplicate ones.
 The car battery should always be checked at regular intervals and the distill
water level should be checked once every week.
 The coolant should also be checked once every week.
 The car tyres should be properly checked at regular intervals and the air
pressure should be checked every two to three days.
 The break fluid and the clutch fluid should also be checked at regular intervals.
 During the rains, car wash service should be done properly and the anti-rust
paint should be painted.
 The wheel alignment and balance should be checked at regular intervals.
 Lubricants should be used on all the doors and windows of the car at regular
intervals to avoid jamming. In case if the rubber linings have got spoiled, then it
should be changed.
 According to the owner's manual, the wheels should be rotated after certain
period of time.
 The gear System and the gear oil should be regularly checked.
 The air- conditioning system should also be checked along with the cooling
system of the car.
 The electrical system should also be checked.
CAR AIR CONDITIONER

Car Air Conditioner is an integral part of the car. It is very important because of the fact
that it provides ultimate satisfaction during the hot summer days and more so because
India in general has very hot climatic conditions due to tropical climate. Thus, the car air
conditioner has become a necessity.

The essential components of a car air conditioner are:

 The compressor
 The refrigerant gas
 The condenser
 The expansion valve
 The evaporator

The compressor is the most important part of the air conditioner. As the name suggests,
the main function of the compressor is to compress the refrigerant gas and sent it to the
condensing coils and this work is carried on through a pump.

The refrigerant gas's function is to disseminate the heat and cool down in the process.
Ultimately, it so happens that the gas is transformed into liquid state and it furthers the
cooling process.

The condenser is supposed to cool the refrigerant gas and condense it into the liquid
state.

The expansion valve is supposed to re-convert the liquid in to gas once again. This
process leads to a high drop of temperature inside the evaporator

The gas is then directed through the evaporator where a fan blower is attached to blow
the cool air from the evaporator into the vents on the dashboard. And, finally into the
car's inside.

This process is a continuous cycle. The cool air inside once again gets re-channeled to
the compressor, where the same process is carried all over again. However, after a
certain degree of temperature is attained the thermostat shuts of the compressor for a
certain period of time. And then the process starts all over again.

The maintenance of the car air conditioner requires maintenance of its important
components. The common problems are:

 The level of the refrigerant gas must be checked from time to time. If the level of
refrigerant gas is low, then the air conditioner will not work properly. Even any
 possibility of a leakage must be checked as well. Thus it is recommended that
every time the car goes for servicing, the level should be checked.
 There are several mechanical problems attached with it as well. There could be
problems with wiring or electrical switches or with the fuses etc.
 Accumulation of dust and dirt is a major problem though. Many a times it's seen
that dirt or leaves getting accumulated near any of the important components of
the air conditioner can make it dysfunctional totally. Hence, creating an obstacle
for the entire system to function properly.

CAR BRAKES

Car Brakes are another important aspect of car maintenance. They are related to safety
as well. Brakes should be checked and maintained on a very regular basis to ensure
that accidents do not happen. Because failure of the breaking mechanism can be fatal
and can cause destruction of life and property as well.

The following are the guidelines for car break maintenance:

 The break oil should be maintained and checked properly.

 The hand brake cables should also be maintained properly.
 The break pads and the break linings should always be checked at regular
intervals to make sure that they are in proper shape, if not, then should be
adjusted accordingly.

CAR COOLING SYSTEM

The Car Cooling System should be maintained with utmost importance. This system is
responsible for maintaining or protecting the valuable engine of the car. The cooling
system stops the car engine from overheating.

The most important component of the cooling system is the coolant. The coolant is a
special kind of liquid used to cool the engine. The coolant level should be checked at
regular intervals and more frequently during summers.

The cooling system accessories like its pipes and hoses should be checked for leakage
or for mal-functioning at regular intervals. The pressure caps attached to the radiator
should also be examined properly to ensure that the cap is not defective. Even the fan
belt should be examined as well.

CAR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

The Car Electrical System is as important as the nervous system of the human body.
Any failure or any kind of altercation can cause serious damage to the car and a lot of
inconvenience for the car owner.
The different components of the electrical system are the battery, the switches, the
wiring, the fuses etc. However, out of all of them the most important are the battery and
the fuses.

The battery should be maintained properly and checked regularly. The water level of the
battery should be maintained properly. If the car is not being in use, then the battery
terminals should be removed. The battery and the alternator should have to be in very
good shape to ensure that there is no starting problem.

The fuses and the wiring are equally important as well. The fuses should also be
checked and maintained to make sure that the fuses do not blow up while the car is in
motion and create inconvenience for everybody.

CAR ENGINE

Car Engine is the most important part of the car. It is the driving force behind the proper
functioning of the car. Without the engine a car is just like any other toy car. Thus
engine maintenance is of foremost importance.

Engine oil is the most important component of the engine. The engine oil level should
be regularly examined. Especially, before a long drives. It is highly recommended that
driving a car without engine oil is highly unsafe and risky. The fan belt should also be
examined properly as it is a very important part of the engine function.

During servicing, the old engine oil should always be changed with the new engine oil.
The dipstick should always be used to ascertain the level of engine oil in the vehicle.
The oil pressure needs to be examined as well.

CAR FUEL SYSTEM

Car Fuel System is another essential aspect of a car. Fuel used in the car should be of
high quality. Until and unless the fuel is of high quality the mileage of the car will not be
good.

Low quality fuel if used can cause many serious problems for the car. For example, the
fuel filter can become dirty and can cause problems.

The other important components of the fuel system are the air filter, the spark plug and
the timing belt. Even the maintenance of all these components is to be taken very
seriously and needs to be examined at regular intervals. If required they should be
replaced as well.

CAR_GEARS

Car Gears are used to increase the speed of the car. Normally as and when the speed
of the car increases the gears increase as well. So if you want to attain higher speed
you have to shift to the next higher gear. Even when you want to decrease the speed
you need to shift down the gear to a lower level. Normally cars in India have either four
or five gears and a reverse gear. Whenever gears are changed while driving it is
necessary that the clutch be pressed at the same time as well. That is how the gear
system works. However, as soon as the gear is shifted the foot should be immediately
removed from the clutch plate. Otherwise if the foot is kept on the plate while driving, it
will completely burn the clutch plate and hence spoil it completely. But another
important fact is that the clutch and the accelerator motion should be synchronized
properly to ensure that the car is in motion. Without proper synchronization, the motion
of the car will stop. Hence this proves the importance of the gear system in a car.

Thus, the gear oil should be checked and examined frequently to ensure smooth
movement of the gears and at the same time the clutch plates should also be examined
at proper intervals.

CAR _TYRES

Car Tyres are the balancing aspect of the car. A car is balanced on four wheels or tyres.
Car Tyres have other functions apart from balancing as well. They roll and make the car
move. The air pressures of the tyres are also directly related to the mileage of the car.
For example if the air pressure is low, then the mileage will also be low. Improper or
spoilt tyres can also spoil the suspension and the steering wheel balance of the car. It is
an absolute necessity to maintain your car tyres properly to avoid accidents and
unwanted situations.

Therefore, the car tire's air pressure, the tread alignment of the tyres and the wheel
alignment & balance should always be perfect. And those should be examined at
regular intervals. It is highly recommended that a particular kind of tyre should be
uniformly used in a car. For example, if someone is using radial tyres, then for all the
four wheels, radial tyres should be used.

According to the owner's manual the tyres should be rotated after a certain period of
time. This particular factor varies from car to car according to the make. Therefore it
becomes absolutely necessary for the owner to consult his cars manual before
implementing that.

AUTOMOBILE_ REPAIR

Automobiles undergo wear and tear with the passage of time. It can also be a cause of
damages and accidents. As a result of this, automobiles require constant monitoring
and repairs. Through automobileindia.com, you get to understand your vehicle better
and also get an idea on the scene of automobile repair in India. It will also help you in
identifying the core areas of trouble associated with your automobile and also provide
the remedial measures to solve them.
One of the most common problems associated with repairs involving automobiles is the
battery. If your car battery is not powerful, the car might experience a state of sudden
electrical halt. Moreover, automobile batteries are very much susceptible to corrosions,
which might lead to starting problems. The most common and simple battery repair that
can be done is to clean its posts to ensure a quick start. However, if there is a major
charging problem experienced by your car battery, it is always advisable to get that
checked by an automobile mechanic.

An integral part of any automobile is its brake. At times, we notice common problems
involving automobiles relates to their brakes. A problem involving brakes should always
be given due importance as because your safety might be hampered if brake
malfunctioning is overlooked. You should always check the break fluid of your vehicle.
At times you can add a few drops over the top to ensure that it is in running condition.

Another very common problem associated with cars is fluid leakage. If you find the leak
to be blackish and oily in nature, then most probably, it is the leaked engine oil. In such
a case, you need to wait for some days to see whether this type of emission continues
or not. In case of their continual, you must call your mechanic. However, if you get to
see that the oil is reddish in colour and texture, be rest assured that it is nothing else,
but the transmission fluid.

If you notice that a significant amount of this fluid is being emitted every now and then,
seek for professional help from your mechanic. At times, even the brake fluid can get
leaked. Such types of leaks are mostly common near the wheels. Such leaks need
quick repair because they may lead to failure of the brakes. So, never take a chance
with leaked brake fluid of your automobile and endanger your safety.

CAR KITS

Car kits are generally the different gears or a specific set of tools, which are meant to
serve specific vehicular functions. They may vary from car body components to the car
wheels. So, in a broad sense, all the components which are involved in the normal
functioning of a car, may be termed as Car Kit.

These Car Kits can be instrumental in making your automobile look cool and trendy.
With the help of some basic maneuverings coupled with sound installations, your own
car might turn out to be a standalone amongst a multitude of other automobiles.
Installation of these car body kits is mostly done by the professional automobile
mechanics. However, during some cases, you may yourself install them without any sort
of hazards.

Installation of most of the car body kits is done with the help of screwdrivers and in
some rare cases, special adhesives that can join the original bumper. Some other
popular car body kits include the likes of grilles and LEDs.

A very common car kit is the car bulb. This particular form of car kit is mainly used off
roads. They come in various sizes and you need to go though the application guide of
such bulbs before you ultimately make your desired choice. You may also find an online
guide for this particular form of car kit. The more colorful the bulb is, greater it will make
your vehicle appealing.

However, perhaps the most important car kit is the performance parts, which are
associated with it. These are best known to us for adding requisite amount of
horsepower to the car. As a result of this, the speed of your car is enhanced by leaps
and bounds. In Hyundai cars, these performance parts can add in the range of 1-100Hp
depending upon the upgrading amount you wish to choose. Such car kits will surely
enhance your cars compatibility as well as make driving a treat for you. You can also
wish to use performance pulley (a widely used car kit) in your vehicle and Turbo Timers
simultaneously. Both these will help your cars engine to cool down even in extreme
weather conditions.

FUEL SAVING TIPS:

Here are some tips to save your fuel and environment while driving a car:

 Accelerate properly through the gears to your desired speed.

 When you are driving, try to put top gear from around 60 kph and up and try to keep rpm
between 2000 and 3000.
 Lights, stereo and air-conditioning also cost more fuel. So if it’s not required try to keep it
off.
 Lights, stereo and air-conditioning also cost more fuel. So if it’s not required try to keep it
off.
 Using brakes more frequently also cost more fuel.
 If you are in jam or in red light signal where you think it will take more than a minute then
turn off your car engine, it will save fuel and environment.
 Change the oil on time and does servicing on time will also help to boost fuel economy and
car performance.
 Your foot should not rest on the clutch paddle while driving the car, this clutch driving will
burn more fuel.

WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT CAR:

ENGINE
It is the heart of an Automobile. An engine is a machine that produces mechanical force and
motion when it is subjected to combustion. The engine in an Automobile is an internal
combustion engine.

CAM

A cam is a rotating or sliding piece in a mechanical linkage used especially in transforming

rotary motion into linear motion or vice versa.

HOOD

The hood or bonnet is the hinged cover over the engine of motor vehicles that allows access to
the engine compartment for maintenance and repair. Hood refers to a fabric cover over the
passenger compartment of the car.

ANTI-LOCK BRAKES (ABS)

Helps maintain control in emergency stops. While the driver applies steady pressure to the brake
pedal, the system automatically the brakes many times per second to prevent wheel lock-up.

AUTOMATIC CLIMATE CONTROL

A heating and air conditioning system that adjusts itself as needed, to maintain a pre-set
temperature.

VARIABLE VALVE TIMING (VVT)

Using computer control, VVT alters the opening and closing of the engine's valves automatically
to produce the greatest level of efficiency. Ordinary engines have fixed valve operation.

TURBO CHARGING

Turbochargers make use of exhaust gases to compress the air that enters the engine, which
increases its potential power output.

ELECTRONIC BRAKE-FORCE DISTRIBUTION

It operates in conjunction with ABS to balance the force applied to the brakes at front and rear
wheels. Can prevent over-braking, improve brake-pad life, reduce "brake fade" caused by
excessive heat, and ensure peak braking efficiency in all conditions.
 SPARK PLUG

A spark plug is an electrical device that fits into the cylinder head of some internal combustion
engines and ignites compressed fuels by means of an electric spark.

DUAL FRONT AIRBAGS

It is designed to protect the driver and front passenger in a frontal collision. Mounted in the
steering wheel hub and in the right side of the dashboard, they inflate and deflate within a
fraction of a second. Most systems can judge the severity of an impact and determine whether a
front-seat occupant is wearing a safety belt or is out of position. This allows them to adjust the
rate of deployment to minimize injuries from the airbags themselves. Dual front airbags are
required by law on all new passenger vehicles.

BRAKE ASSIST

It is designed to shorten the stopping distance in a panic stop. It helps in applying full braking
power even if the brake pedal is not fully depressed. Sensors gauge the speed at which the driver
initially depresses the brake pedal and determine whether full emergency stopping power is
warranted.

TORQUE

Torque - refers to an automobile's ability to generate pick up. Torque is one of the most
important factors at the beginning of any non-rolling start race. It is the ability of the car to send
power to the wheels and turn them - moving the entire car forward. Torque is not the same as
horsepower. Horsepower is often used to gauge the potential top speed of a car. Torque is the
ability of an engine to move the weight of the car forward.

PICK-UP

Pick-up refers to any cars ability to increase speed regardless of the current speed of the car.

HORSEPOWER /POWER OF A CAR

Horsepower by definition is the power of an engine in comparison to horses. For example, a car
with 100 horsepower is as fast as 100 horses all rolled into one. While this is not a very scientific
explanation it is the root of the word. Horsepower is often indicative of a cars top speed.
Horsepower does not necessarily mean that a car is fast from a standing start (see torque) but
instead it is often indicative of the speed attainable by a particular car.
 KPH (KILOMETERS PER HOUR)

It is the most common measurement of speed. The number of Kilometers you would travel at any
given speed in an hour.

ROTATIONS PER MINUTE (RPM)

Revolutions per minute is a unit of frequency of rotation. The number of full rotation completed
in one minute around a fixed axis.

CUBIC CENTIMETER (CC)

A cubic centimeter or cubic centimeter is a commonly used unit of volume extending the derived
SI-unit cubic meter and corresponds to the volume of a cube measuring 1×1×1 cm. The Volume
of a cylinder is measured in ‘cc’ units.

SUSPENSION

Suspension is the term given to the system of springs, shock absorbers and linkages that connects
a vehicle to its wheels. Suspension systems serve a dual purpose – contributing to the car's
handling and braking for good active safety and driving pleasure, and keeping vehicle occupants
comfortable and reasonably well isolated from road noise, bumps, and vibrations etc.

TRANSMISSION/GEARBOX

A transmission or gearbox provides speed and torque conversions from a rotating power source
to another device using gear ratios. There are 2 types of transmissions
1. Automatic Transmission (AT)
2. Manual Transmission (MT)

CHASSIS

A chassis is the physical frame or structure of an automobile. It is this frame by the help of which
the Automobile is built.

BORE

Bore, when used in the context of piston engines, is a measurement of the diameter of the holes
bored into the engine block for use as cylinders. It’s useful in calculating the displacement of an
engine.

COMPRESSION RATIO

The compression ratio of an internal-combustion engine is a value that represents the ratio of the
volume of its combustion chamber; from its largest capacity to its smallest capacity. It is a
fundamental specification for many common combustion engines. In a piston engine it is the
ration between the volume of the cylinder and combustion chamber when the piston is at the
bottom of its stroke, and the volume of the combustion chamber when the piston is at the top of
its stroke. A high compression ratio is desirable because it allows an engine to extract more
mechanical energy from a given mass of air-fuel mixture due to its higher thermal efficiency.

NAVIGATION SYSTEM

An automotive navigation system is a satellite navigation system designed for use in

automobiles. It typically uses a GPS navigation device to acquire position data to locate the user
on a road in the unit's map database. Using the road database, the unit can give directions to
other locations along roads also in its database.

BOOT SPACE

It represents the space available in the automobile for keeping luggage. A car with better and
larger boot space is more desirable.

MILEAGE

Mileage is one of the most important parameters of an automobile. This term is defined as the
distance an automobile can travel in 1 liter of the fuel. The Mileage of a car is different in City
compared to the Highway. Usually a car with higher mileage is desirable.

TACHOMETER

A tachometer is an instrument that measures the rotation speed of a shaft or disk, as in a motor or
other machine. The device usually displays the revolutions per minute (RPM) on a calibrated
analogue dial, but digital displays are increasingly common.

4 WHEEL DRIVE

Four-wheel drive, 4WD, 4x4 or AWD (all wheel drive) is a four-wheeled vehicle that allows all
four wheels to receive torque from the engine simultaneously. While many people associate the
term with off-road vehicles and Sport utility vehicles, powering all four wheels provides better
control in normal road cars on many surfaces, and is an important part of rally racing. In
abbreviations such as 4x4, the first figure is normally taken as the total number of wheels and the
second is normally taken as the number of powered wheels and 4x2 means a four-wheel vehicle
in which engine power is transmitted to only two axle-ends.

MACPHERSON STRUT

The Macpherson strut is a type of car suspension system which is used almost all modern cars
for proper handling and safety of the car.
 HOW TO MODIFY / TUNE YOUR CAR
By GTO

What does a BHPian naturally want out of his stock machine? MORE POWER! Team-
BHP tells you all you need to know about modifying your street car.

BEFORE you modify your car

• Remember to practice SAFE DRIVING on public roads! With additional power comes
the need for additional responsibility. Keep the racing restricted to track days and in
other forms of competition (within a controlled environment).

• Enroll with a professional rally / racing / driving school. This will not only make you a
faster driver but also a safer one. To quote a popular Pirelli tagline : Power is nothing
without control.

• Ensure that you are with the right tuner. The quality of install and product is most
important. Get your work done only by a tuner who has the relevant knowledge,
infrastructure and dedication to carry out a high quality installation. The product quality
is equally important and it is generally recommended to stick to reputed brands
(wherever available). A bad modification can actually make your car slower than in
stock tune. Poor reliability may also result from a bad installation, causing a great
amount of heart-burn to you.

• Remember that the engine is a very complex system and each component has to work
in harmony with everything else. Only then will you benefit from the performance
modifications.

• Tune your car via a step-by-step method. This will allow you to gauge improvements in
an incremental manner and fine-tune one modification before moving on to the next.

• Choose a “mod-friendly” car to start with. Most Japanese brands like the Hondas and
Suzuki’s have tremendous after-market support in terms of parts availability and tuner
capability. Simply put, there are some cars which inherently respond better to
performance tuning. On the other hand, it is a pointless exercise trying to make heavy
cars like the Contessa or a Mahindra Jeep go any faster! Pick your car based on what
you want to achieve.

• Beware of cheap “go-fast” gimmicks like the Surbo and electric superchargers, which
are nothing but an absolute waste of money. Common sense plays a vital role out here;
why would you need a DTM corner slammer on a front wheel drive car that spends most
of its time below 120 kph.
• Remember that Vitamin M (or Money!!) runs the show. Tuning your car can be an
expensive proposition, so outline a detailed budget before moving on from stage to
stage. Not only will the modifications cost you big $$$, but lowered fuel efficiency
(almost certain) will cause another dent on your wallet. Some highly-modified cars or
engines running an increased compression ratio may also require high-octane fuel to
run efficiently.

• Invest in a popular timing device like the G-Tech series. This range of timing
equipment will help you to gauge the benefits of your modification, and whether that
actually translated into making your car faster.

• Remember that your warranty will almost certainly be nullified, if your car is within the
coverage period.

• Think before you try to alleviate the visual appeal of your car via body kits and
spoilers. Be warned that a badly-designed body kit will ruin the aerodynamics of your
car and may cause it to become unstable at high speeds. Also, spoilers are merely for
looks and, in any case, work only above 175kph.

STAGE ONE MODIFICATIONS

1. Upgrade tyres and alloy wheels:

• Before adding more power to your car, it must have the adequate grip levels for
current & future power delivery. Alloy wheels are not always necessary for a tyre upsize.
A detailed guide on upsizing your tyres is available here : Choosing the right set of tyres
for your car. Approximate cost = Rs.12,500 – 50,000.

2. Air-Filter:

• A stock replacement performance filter requires no modifications and is very simple to

install since it fits exactly in place of your factory filter. The performance gains are
marginal. Approximate cost = Rs.2,000 – 7,500.

A Cold air intake (CAI) is the more serious of performance air-filters. With a CAI, proper
installation is very important and it should not suck in hot air. The colder the air available
to it, the better will be the gains in performance. A true CAI sucks in outside air, while
short rams and most CAI applications take air from under the hood. Even if it's 35
degrees outside, that is still significantly cooler than the air under your hood. You can
also opt for a good conical / universal filter without CAI. The plumbing needs to have
minimum restrictions with most experts recommending mandrel bent aluminium pipes.
The diameter of the pipe through its entire length should be uniform and greater than
that of the throttle body. Do note that the sound levels with significantly increase with a
CAI, and some precautions must be taken when driving in the monsoons. K&N
recommends a shroud for use in dusty conditions. Approximate cost = Rs.5,000 –
17,500.
3. Free-Flow Exhaust:

• A well-designed free flow exhaust system improves the breathing abilities of your
engine and can lead to good performance / fuel-efficiency gains. It is important to get a
complete free-flow kit (including headers) and not a muffler / end-can kit only. A good
header design is very important and you may specify to your installer a preference of
low, mid or high-rpm gains. Very little time is actually spent at high-rpms so you might
be better off asking for a low to mid-range power gain. The appropriate back pressure
must be maintained else you will lose out on torque. An exhaust system is like a chain
and only as strong as its weakest link. The most restrictive part is usually the cat-con or
the mid-muffler. Some tuners will remove the cat-con, which will result in difficulty
toward meeting the emission norms. Also, try and insulate the exposed part of the
exhaust system within the hood with asbestos wire (cheap) or ceramic coating
(expensive). Approximate cost = Rs.7,500 – 25,000.

4. Spark Plugs:

• Performance plugs are pointless on a stock / marginally modified car. Iridium plugs
have hardly any benefits and you will never notice them anyway. In case you do install
the same, ensure that you pick up plugs with the correct heat range for your engine.
Approximate cost = Rs.800 – 3,500.

5. Plug wires:

• Same as above. After-market wires don’t add any performance to a stock or marginally
modified engine. Only if your eventual modifications require an upgrade to a custom
engine management system (or a high-performance ignition system) will your plug wires
have some benefit. But at this stage, don’t opt for plug wires as you will only waste your
money. Approximate cost = Rs.1,500 – 6,000.

6. Temperature signal modifiers:

• These devices are fairly simple to install and result in marginal (if any) performance
gains. They modify some signals that are delivered to the ECU, which results in altered
fuel / ignition maps. Approximate cost = Rs.900 – 9,000.

7. Synthetic Oil:

• Synthetic lubes are highly recommended by Team-BHP for the superior protection and
enhanced lubrication on offer. For a detailed explanation, click here : Synthetic oil vs.
Mineral oil. Approximate cost = Rs.500 – 1300 per liter.

8. Strut braces:

• Strut braces / tower bars reduce flex, and help in increasing the grip levels / stability of
the car through corners. However, it’s only under hard cornering that the difference is
noticeable. Approximate cost = Rs.1,500 – 5,500.

9. Short-shifters:

• Short-shifters shorten the throw of your gear-lever, and result in quicker gear shifts. Be
advised that there is an optimum length of the shifter depending on the throw,
ergonomics and your preferences, and it will take some getting used to. Most drivers
are better off with a stock-shifter! Approximate cost = Rs.4,500 – 7,500.

STAGE TWO MODIFICATIONS

1. Performance suspension kits:

• With the additional power that your engine is churning out by now, increased grip
levels are a must. There are plentiful branded options available for performance struts,
coils, coil-over springs, dampers (shock-absorbers) and camber kits (Polyurethane bush
kits). Approximate cost = Rs.10,000 – 1,00,000.

2. Head Porting & polishing:

• Cylinder head porting and polishing refers to enlarging and smoothening of the ports
on the intake and exhaust. This results in better quality and quantity of gas flow-rates.
Power gains are very noticeable from a high-quality porting and polishing job.
Remember that the intake ports need to be finished rough while the exhaust ports
should have a mirror finish. Approximate cost = Rs.9,000 – 15,000.

3. Removing the revv-limiter:

• A fairly simple modification which any ECU specialist can implement in a very short
time. Your cars manufacturer-set rpm limits will be raised but you also need to check if
your engine internals can take the additional stress. It wont lead to a power increase
with all engines; yet can be a useful tool in improving lap times (holding a gear longer)
and acceleration (one less up shift for 0 - 100). Approximate cost = Rs.3,500 upward.

4. Nitrous oxide systems:

• NOS, as they are popularly called, are cheap power shots and a favorite with drag
racers. Due to the inherent nature of the gas, it is a very risky installation. Don’t go
overboard with the dose else your engine will end up blown. Also make sure that you
back the timing off by a few degrees. Approximate cost = Rs.22,000 – 75,000.

5. Performance camshafts:

• Performance cams are a superb modification and can add upto 10% - 20% more
power, with options available for low, mid and high-rpm gains. An increase in
compression ratio is highly recommended. Also insist on a cam adjuster (variable cam
pulley for adjusting cam timing) to realise the full gains of the cam. It is important to
avoid over-cam'ing while the more extreme profiles will surely require head work. High
lift cams cost a packet and are not recommended for daily-driven cars since the low-end
response is compromised, fuel-efficiency takes a beating and you will need to fiddle with
idle settings to get it right. Approximate cost = Rs.12,000 – 35,000.

6. Map sensor signal modifiers:

• These can improve part throttle performance, but will result only in marginal
performance gains. Approximate cost = Rs.12,000 – 25,000.

7. Valve angling:

• A multi-angle valve job can lead to noticeable street performance gains by improving
the head flow. Note that this is a highly precision-oriented task. Approximate cost =
Rs.3,500 upward.

8. Over-boring / Stroker kits:

• Over-boring is increasing the CC (cubic capacity) by changing the piston size and
stroke of the engine. Pistons, connecting rods and the crankshaft will need to be
replaced. Simply put, bigger engine size = more power. For e.g. a 1.3 liter can be
overbored to 1.5 liters in capacity. Approximate cost = Rs.12000 upward.

9. Piggy-back ECU's:

• Piggybacks are additional engine control units that work along with the standard ECU.
They enhance engine performance and leave the non-engine electronic work to the
standard ECU. A piggyback modifies some signals (sent back to the ECU) and plays
around with the performance parameters only (fuel injection, timing etc.). Fuel
controllers adjust the fuel mapping and allow the engine to increase its power output. An
example of a fuel computer is the ApexI S-AFC. They offer a multitude of adjustments
whereby you can run rich or lean, depending on the driving conditions. It is imperative
for the piggy-back to be compatible with your ECU. Remember that the AFR signal
adjustment is to be done only in tandem with a wide band AFR kit. Leave the tuning part
to an expert. Approximate cost = Rs.12,000 – 35,000.

10. Engine remaps:

• An ECU flash will give you higher power gains than a piggyback, by changing the
entire characteristics and settings of the factory software. There are ready performance
remaps available for a wide range of Indian cars and the installation procedure is fairly
simple. If you plan on going further to stage three modifications, do the remap at the
very end. Any reputable company is going to account for your full mod list in order to
give you the best remap. Do the remap last, unless you want to do it twice. Approximate
cost = Rs.23,000 – 60,000.

STAGE THREE MODIFICATIONS

1. Performance braking systems:

• By the time you reach stage three, chances are that your current braking power is
ineffective toward handling the additional engine punch. Upgraded boosters,
performance discs and street / performance brake pads are available to improve your
cars stopping power. Approximate cost = Rs.3,000 – 40,000.

2. Turbo-chargers:

• Turbo's offer high power gains but don't exceed 6-8 psi on a stock motor. If you want
to go higher than that, get ready for a seriously expensive investment in forged
internals, sleeves etc. For a complete guide on turbo-charging, click here : Turbo-
charging your car. Approximate cost = Rs.1,25,000 upward.

3. Super-chargers:

• Super-chargers or "blowers" (as they are called in the tuner circle) are another method
of forced induction. More expensive to install, they are driven off the engines crankshaft,
unlike a turbo which is driven by exhaust gas energy. Super-charger kits are readily
available for some engines, though Indian tuners prefer turbo-charging. For a detailed
comparison, click here : Turbo chargers vs. Super chargers. Approximate cost =
Rs.1,25,000 upward.

4. Engine swaps:

• When you have maxed out the power of your current engine, or simply want a bigger
powerplant, engine swaps are a good option. Many tuner-friendly cars have a ready list
of options available. D16 and B16 engines into Honda City’s, twin-cam Suzuki Swift GTi
swaps into Maruti Zen’s and even Honda mills into Suzuki bodies are popular.
Mitsubishi Lancers have various Mivec and EVO options. Swapping the engine is
changing the "heart" of your car so consult only with tuners who have the necessary
experience, knowledge and infrastructure; this is a very important consideration. Some
swaps may not offer a bolt-on transition and will require heavy modifications to
accommodate. Approximate cost = Rs.30,000 upward.

5. Upgrade clutch:

• In stage three, a performance clutch may become a necessity to transfer the additional
power effectively and quickly. Consider what the usage of your car will be before
installing a performance clutch as varied options are available between street, drag and
race applications. Some are a pain to use in bumper-to-bumper traffic. Approximate
cost = Rs.10,000 – 50,000.

6. Lighter flywheel:

• A lighter flywheel will improve throttle response at all rpms, since the inertia is lower. It
works well with balancing the crankshaft. However, don’t add one to a stock engine else
you will lose torque at low-rpms. Lightened flywheels are a good option for racing and
make for a superb modification with a short (close-ratio) gearbox. Approximate cost =
Rs.15,000 – 25,000.

7.Gearing:

• The gearbox is one of the most important tools in extracting power from your engine,
exactly where you want it (low, mid and high-rpms). You may choose to alter the final
drive or go in for an entirely new custom gearbox. Your transmission may also require
stronger drive-shafts to cope with the additional power. Approximate cost = Rs. 6,500
upward.

8. ECU replacement:

• The ECU (engine control unit) is the brain of your car and controls various engine
parameters and functions. Custom ECU's can be tuned for specific engines where
power gains vary from 5%(stock engine) to more than 30% (heavily modified engines).
A stand-alone engine management system (Link, AEM, TEC-II etc.) allow great
flexibility. With that flexibility comes complexity, custom fitting, and cost. As you
progress within stage three, a replacement ECU will become necessary. A great feature
of some stand-alones (with a toggle switch) is that they can be switched between
performance and stock modes. Approximate cost = Rs.25,000 upward.

Some recommended safety add-ons:

Roll cages

Master Cut-off switch

• Fire Extinguisher

• Race Fuel Cell

• Race seats with 4 or 5 point harnesses

Other useful add-ons:

Performance Meters (Boost, Temperature, oil pressure, shift light etc.)

Better lighting

Synthetic oil vs Mineral oil

By GTO

Synthetic engine oil offers far superior lubrication as compared to conventional mineral-based
oil. Mineral engine oil is almost entirely natural while synthetic oil is the product of chemical
preparation with carefully perfected formulae. Most brands of synthetic oil include performance-
enhancing additives like polyalphaolefin (PAO), synthetic esters and alkylated aromatics. The
molecules of synthetic oil are also more consistent in size and shape than those of natural oil.
The master of automotive engineering - Porsche - was the first car manufacturer to factory-fill its
engines with synthetic oil before delivery.

Team-BHP highly recommends synthetic oil as your engine lubricant. The most popular brand of
this oil is Mobil1, which is known to offer outstanding protection under all operating conditions.
Synthetic oil maintains consistent viscosity even in very high heat and, since most engine wear
occurs at start-up, works to offer more lubrication at this crucial stage. The bottom line is that
synthetic oil use leads to longer life, more efficiency and enhanced performance for your engine.
Some tests have also indicated a marginal increase in power. My Honda City Vtec has covered
40,000 kms on Mobil 1, and the engine still feels like new. Despite frequent doses of enjoyable
high-revving to the red line.

Here is the Team-BHP guide to using synthetic engine oil:

No synthetics during the running-in period: Wear and tear is actually good for a new engine.
Synthetic oil, with its superior lubricating properties, hinders the running-in process and is best
used only after 10,000 – 15,000 km.

The right grade: It is vital that you choose your engine oil based on the grade your
manufacturer recommends. If your owner’s manual suggests a 10W–40 grade oil, make certain
that you use that only.

Engine flush before change: We suggest using an engine flush before switching from
conventional to synthetic oil. Please be advised that some older / high-mileage engines do not
take well to engine flushing, so it is best to check with a competent mechanic before proceeding.

Extended oil change intervals?: Even though most synthetic oil brands boast of extended oil
change intervals, Team-BHP recommends that you still change your engine oil every 7,500 –
10,000 km. Indian driving conditions put a lot of stress on your engine with low average speeds,
bumper-to-bumper traffic and harsh environmental conditions.

The right filter: It is surprising how many counterfeit auto parts are on the market. Use only
high-quality OEM oil filters, preferably bought from authorized service stations. You must
change your oil filter with every oil change.

Diesel engines: Diesel engines benefit as much from synthetic oil as petrol engines. However,
and especially for diesel engines, it is very important for you to match the synthetic oil grade
with the one recommended by your manufacturer. Some synthetic lubes may have very high
petrol engine standards, but not necessarily so for the diesels.

Semi-synthetic oil: This oil is a blend of synthetic and mineral oil and is targeted at the value-
conscious market. Though it offers some of the benefits of fully synthetic oil at a lower price,
fully-synthetics offer far superior performance and protection.

Cost: The only real disadvantage to synthetic oil is that it is more expensive than mineral oil. We
feel that the protective advantage of synthetic oil makes it well worth the price.

Synthetic engine oil offers far superior lubrication as compared to conventional mineral-based oil.
Mineral engine oil is almost entirely natural while synthetic oil is the product of chemical
preparation with carefully perfected formulae. Most brands of synthetic oil include performance-
enhancing additives like polyalphaolefin (PAO), synthetic esters and alkylated aromatics. The
molecules of synthetic oil are also more consistent in size and shape than those of natural oil. The
master of automotive engineering - Porsche - was the first car manufacturer to factory-fill its
engines with synthetic oil before delivery.

Team-BHP highly recommends synthetic oil as your engine lubricant. The most popular brand of
this oil is Mobil1, which is known to offer outstanding protection under all operating conditions.
Synthetic oil maintains consistent viscosity even in very high heat and, since most engine wear
occurs at start-up, works to offer more lubrication at this crucial stage. The bottom line is that
synthetic oil use leads to longer life, more efficiency and enhanced performance for your engine.
Some tests have also indicated a marginal increase in power. My Honda City Vtec has covered
40,000 kms on Mobil 1, and the engine still feels like new. Despite frequent doses of enjoyable
high-revving to the red line.

Here is the Team-BHP guide to using synthetic engine oil:

No synthetics during the running-in period: Wear and tear is actually good for a new engine.
Synthetic oil, with its superior lubricating properties, hinders the running-in process and is best used
only after 10,000 – 15,000 km.

The right grade: It is vital that you choose your engine oil based on the grade your manufacturer
recommends. If your owner’s manual suggests a 10W–40 grade oil, make certain that you use that
only.

Engine flush before change: We suggest using an engine flush before switching from conventional
to synthetic oil. Please be advised that some older / high-mileage engines do not take well to
engine flushing, so it is best to check with a competent mechanic before proceeding.

Extended oil change intervals?: Even though most synthetic oil brands boast of extended oil change
intervals, Team-BHP recommends that you still change your engine oil every 7,500 – 10,000 km.
Indian driving conditions put a lot of stress on your engine with low average speeds, bumper-to-
bumper traffic and harsh environmental conditions.

The right filter: It is surprising how many counterfeit auto parts are on the market. Use only high-
quality OEM oil filters, preferably bought from authorized service stations. You must change your oil
filter with every oil change.

Diesel engines: Diesel engines benefit as much from synthetic oil as petrol engines. However, and
especially for diesel engines, it is very important for you to match the synthetic oil grade with the
one recommended by your manufacturer. Some synthetic lubes may have very high petrol engine
standards, but not necessarily so for the diesels.

Semi-synthetic oil: This oil is a blend of synthetic and mineral oil and is targeted at the value-
conscious market. Though it offers some of the benefits of fully synthetic oil at a lower price, fully-
synthetics offer far superior performance and protection.

Cost: The only real disadvantage to synthetic oil is that it is more expensive than mineral oil. We
feel that the protective advantage of synthetic oil makes it well worth the price.