MODERNIST

CUISINE
~foflle

Kitchen Manual
MODERNIST
CUISI~E
~tfol'le

Nathan Myhrvold
with Maxirne Bilet

Photography by
Nathan Myhrvold
Melissa Lehuta
and The Cooking Lab
Photography Team

The Cooking Lab

Copyright © 2012 by The Cooking Lab, LLC

All rights reserved . Except as permitted under the U.S. Copyright Act of 1976,
no part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in
any form or by any means, or stored in a database or retrieval system, without
the prior written permission of the publisher. All trademarks used are prop-
erty of their respective owners.

The Cooking Lab

3150 139th Ave SE
Bellevue, WA 98005
www.modernistcuisine.co m

ISBN: 978-0-9827610-1-4
First edition, 2012

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available upon request

Printed in China
MODERNIST
CUISI~E
~l#He

Kitchen Manual

The Cooking Lab

Refined and Unrefined Oils viii Mughal Curry Sauce 26
The Science of "Lightly Cooked" Food ix Kerala Curry Sauce 26
M uslim Curry Sauce 26
PART ONE: STOCKING THE MODERNIST KITCHEN MC Specia l Sauce 27
Chapterl: Countertop Tools 2 Sous Vide Hollandaise 28
How to Tare a Digital Scale 2 Crustacean Hollandaise 29
How to Test the Accuracy of a Thermometer 2 Garlic Hollandaise 29
How to Use a Siphon 3 Spicy Hollandaise 29
Pressure-Caramelized Ketchup 30
Chapter 2: Conventional Cooking Gear 4 Barbecue Ketchup 30
How to Calibrate Your Oven 4 Salsa Verde 31
How to Deep-Fry Without a Deep Fryer 4 Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce 31
How to Use a Pressure Cooker 5 Marinara 32
Pineapple Marinara 32
Chapter 3: Cooking So us Vide 6 Bolognese 32
How to Use an Edge Sealer 6 Tomato Sofrito 32
How to Seal Food in a Zip-Top Bag 6 Pizza Sauce 32
How to Use a Handheld Pump 7 Strawberry Marinara 33
How to Compress Fruits and Vegetables 7 Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze 33
How to Check the Core Temperature 8 Oils and Fats 34
Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil 34
PART TWO: THE RECIPES Modernist Vinaigrette 35
Chapter 5: Basics 9 Cilantro Vinaigrette 35
Stocks 9 Vietnamese-Style Dressing 35
Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock 9 Cherry Vinaigrette 35
Brown Chicken Stock 9 Sesame Dressing 35
Pressure-Cooked Brown Beef Stock 10 Spiced Chili Dressing 35
Brown Pork Stock 10 Fines Herbes Vinaigrette with Pistachio Butter 35
White Beef Stock 10 Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil 36
Sous Vide Fish Stock 11 Pressure-Cooked Spiced Chili Oil 36
Brown Fish Stock 11 Garlic Oil 36
Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Stock 12 Lemon Oil 36
Vegetable Stock 13 Basic Chili Oil 36
Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Stock 13 Ginger Oil 36
Brown Vegetable Stock 13 Vanilla Oil 36
Toasted Corn Stock 14 Rosemary Oil 36
Mushroom Jus 15 Thyme Oil 36
Brown Chicken Jus 16 How to Make Clarified Butter and Brown Butter 37
Brown BeefJus 16 Montpellier Butter 38
Game Bird Jus 16 Stove-Top Carotene Butter 39
Home Jus Gras 17 Bell Pepper, Coffee, Porcini, and Spinach Butters 39
Ultrastable Butter Sauce 17 Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter 40
Sauces 18 Sous Vide Crustacean Butter 40
How to Make Full-Flavored Pan Gravy 18 Pressure-Cooked Lobster Bisque 40
Thickening with Wondra 18 Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat 41
Redeye Gravy 19 Condiments 42
Red Wine Glaze 20 Grilled Applesauce 42
How to Make Gels and Fluid Gels 21 Pressure-Cooked Pickled Mustard Seeds 43
Onion Fluid Gel 21 Pressure-Cooked Garlic Confit 44
Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel 21 Proven~al Garlic Confit 44
Pistachio Pesta 22 Mediterranean Vegetable Con fit 44
Spinach Pesta 23 Fingerling Potatoes Con fit 44
Green Onion and Sorrel Pesta 23 Pressure-Caramelized Onions 45
Roasted Red Pepper Pesta 23 Dried Caramelized Onions 45
Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pesta 23 French Onion Soup 45
Cilantro Pesta 23 Tomato Con fit 46
Sauce Verte 23 Tomato Leather 47
Pressure-Cooked Drippings 24 Mango Chili Leather 47
Caramelized Onion Gravy 24 Fruit Leather 47
Modernist Mayonnaise 25 Onion Leather 47
Aioli 25 Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables 48
Bacon Mayonnaise 25 Vacuum-Infused Celery 49
Rouille 25 Pressure-Infused Celery 49
Tartar Sauce 25 Waldorf Sa lad 49
 Brines and Marinades so Chapter 8: Pressure- Cooked Vegetable Soups 75
Sweet Brine for Meats so Caramelized Carrot Soup 75
Basic Brine for Whole Poultry so Caramelized Carrot Puree 75
Savory Poultry Brine so Other Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Soups and Purees 76
Fish Brine 51 Squash Soup 76
Seaweed Fish Brine 51 Artichoke Soup 76
Fish Cure 51 Leek and Onion Soup 76
Marinades 51 Pressure·Caramelized Banana Puree 76
Vietnamese Marinade 51 Apple and Parsnip Soup 76
Mexican Marinade 51 Bell Pepper Soup 76
Mediterranean Yogurt Marinade 51 Mushroom Soup 76
Barbecue Marinade 51 Cauliflower Soup 76
Kalbi Marinade 51 Broccoli- Gruyere Soup 76
Spice Mixes 52 Corn Soup 76
MCCurry Powder 52 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus 77
Vindaloo Spice Mix 52 Pressure-Cooked Vegetables 77
Chaat Masala 53 Pressure-Cooked Barley 78
Grilling Spice Mix 53 Barley Salad 78
Fish Spice Mix 54 Vegetable Stew 78
Autumn Spice Mix 55 Seasonal Herb Garnishes 78
Chi li Spice Mix 55
Chapter 9: Steak 79
Chapter 6: Breakfast Eggs 56 Sous Vide Steak 79
French Scrambled Eggs 56 Best Bets for Cooking Tender Meat Sous Vide 80
Scrambled Egg Pudding 56 Sous Vide Steak in a Cooler 80
Olive Oil Scrambled Eggs 56 Low-Temp Oven Steak 81
Mini Egg Cups 56 Frozen Steak 81
Omelet Fillings 57 Creamed Spinach 82
Florentine Omelet Filling 57 South Indian Watercress 82
Espagnole Omelet Filling 57 Grilled Pork Chop 83
Alsatian Omelet Filling 57 Grilled Steak 84
Raviolo Omelet Filling 57 Sous Vide Lamb Skewers 86
Steamed Herb Omelet 58
Striped Mushroom Omelet 60 Chapter 10: Cheeseburger 87
Eggs Sunny-Side Up 62 How to Grind Meat Like a Pro 87
Deviled Eggs 62 Best Bets for Hamburger Patties 87
Mushroom Puree 63 How to Form a Square Hamburger Patty 87
Cream of Mushroom Soup 63 Modernist Hamburger Patty 88
Shiitake Marmalade 64 Firm Burger Patty 88
Ultrafrothy Milk Shake 89
Chapter 7: Salads and Cold Soups 65 White Sandwich Bread 90
Raspberry Gazpacho 65 Modernist Cheeseburger 91
Fruit Minestrone 66 Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich 92
Strawberry Panna Cotta 67
Fruit Salad 67 Chapterll : Carnitas 94
Cheese Course 67 Pressure-Cooked Carnitas 94
Strawberry Juice with Green Apple Foam 67 Sous Vide Carnitas 94
Modernist Vichyssoise 68 W hole Shoulder 94
Vichyssoise with Potato Peel Reduction 68 Other Braised Meat and Poultry Dishes 95
Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise 68 Lamb Leg Tajine 95
Sweet Onion Slaw 69 Pork Vindaloo with Naan 95
Green Salad with Romaine Dressing 70 Pork Shou lder Fricasee with Apples and Morels 95
Herb and Romaine Broth 70 Braised Duck with Steamed Buns 95
Beet Salad 70 Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps 95
Parmesan Crisp 70 Pressure-Cooked Chicharr6n 96
Pressure-Cooked Quinoa Salad with Cauliflower 71 Achiote Paste 96
Pressure-Cooked Chickpea Salad 72 Refried Bean Foam 97
Sous Vide Tuna Confit 73 Refried Bean Puree 97
Tuna Confit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich 73 Other Bean Foams 97
Pressure-Cooked Lentil Salad 74 Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly Adobo 98
Sous Vide Pork Belly Adobo 98
Chapter12: Braised Short Ribs 99 Dressed Nood les 123
Braised Short Ribs 99 Barley Noodles 123
Best Bets for Cooking Tough Cuts of Meat 99 Potato Noodles 123
Potato Puree 100 Rye Noodles 123
Infused-Cream Potato Puree 100 Masa Harina Noodles 123
Garlic Mashed Potatoes 100 Rice Noodles 123
Sweet Potato Puree 100 Coconut Noodles 123
Pork Belly B.LT. 102 Whole Wheat Noodles 123
Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly 102
Smoked Bacon B.L.T. 102 Chapter16: Salmon 124
Lamb Curry 104 Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon 124
Pressure-Cooked Lamb Shanks 104 How to Poach Salmon in a Kitchen Sink 125
Whole Lamb Shank 104 How to Bake Salmon in a Toaster Oven 125
Crispy Fish Skin 126
Chapter 13: Roast Chicken 105 Baked Fish Skin Chips 126
Slow-Baked Chicken with Onions 105 Crispy Ch icken or Pork Skin 126
Roast Chicken 106 Best Bets for Cooking Fish Sous Vide 127
Pincushion Chicken 107
Extra-Juicy Chicken 107 Chapter17: Shellfish 128
Deep-Fried Chicken 107 How to Kill and Shell a Lobster 128
Spatchcock Chicken 107 Best Bets for Cooking Shellfish Sous Vide 128
Combi Oven Roast Chicken 107 How to Shuck Mussels 129
So us Vide Chicken 108 How to Shuck Clams 129
Sous Vide Turkey Breast 109 Lobster Roll 130
Best Bets for Cooking Tender Poultry 109 Shrimp or Crab Roll 130
Turkey Con fit 110 So us Vide Lobster Tail 130
Best Bets for Cooking Tough Poultry 110 Mussels Mariniere 132
Clams in Chowder Sauce 134
Chapter14: Chicken Wings 111 Oyster Stew 134
Sous Vide Buffalo Wings 111 Pistachio Clam Chowder 134
Crispy Chicken Wings, Korean-Style 112 South of France Chowder 134
Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings 113 So us Vide Braised Snails 135
Puffed Chicken Skin 113
Boneless Yakitori Wings 114 Chapter18: Pizza 136
Buffalo Sauce 115 Neapolitan Pizza Dough 136
Honey Mustard Sauce 115 Qjlinoa Pizza Dough 136
Yakitori Sauce 116 Buckwheat Pizza Dough 136
Korean Wing Sauce 116 Breadsticks 136
Blue Cheese Sauce 117 Rustic Pizza Dough 137
Aerated Blue Cheese Sauce 117 Whole Wheat Pizza Dough 137
Chinese Garlic Chili Condiment 117 Garlic Knots 137
Skewers 118 "Everything" Pretzels 137
Pesta Chicken Thighs 118 Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnut Holes 137
Korean Pork Belly 118 Poolish 138
Deep-Fried Tsukune 118 No-Knead Pizza Dough 139
Chicken Skin Yakitori 118 How to Knead Dough by Hand 139
Tsukune 118 How to Make a Pizza 140
Lamb Skewers with Mint Yogurt 118 C lassic Pizza Variations 140
Chicken Breast Satay 118 Napolitana, Funghi, and Hawaiian Pizzas 140
Beef Short Ribs with Shiitake Marmalade 118 Pizza Margherita 141
Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter 118 Oven-Fried Pizza 142
Deep-Dish Fried Pizza 142
Chapter15: Chicken Noodle Soup 119 Pizza Toppings 143
Pressure-Cooked Carrots and Leeks 119 Broccoli Raab, Genovese, Capicola, Finocchiona, and Uovo Pizzas 143
Chicken Noodle Soup 119 Pizza Cruda 143
Aromatic Chicken Broth 120
Other Aromatic Broths and Soups 121 Chapter 19: Mac and Cheese 144
Pho Soup 121 Mac and Cheese 144
Thai Soup 121 Mac with Jack and Stilton 144
Goulash Broth 121 Mac with Sharp Cheddar and Swiss 144
Chinese Soup 121 Mac with Gorgonzola and Fontina 144
Tortilla Soup 121 Mac and Gruyere 144
Fresh Egg Noodles 122 Mac with Goat Gouda and Cheddar 144
Broccoli with Cheese Sauce 144
Fondue 144
 Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice 145 Chapter 23: Custard s and Pies 170
Baked Mac and Cheese 146 Making Custard 170
"Fat-Free" Mac and Cheese 148 How to Make a Milk or Cream Infusion 171
Mac and Fontina 148 Coffee Creme Brulee 172
Mac and Parmesan 148 Pot de Creme 172
Mac and Cheddar 148 Bain-Marie Creme Brulee 172
Cheese Crisps 148 Plan 172
Cheese Crumble 149 Lemon Posset 173
Grilled Cheese Sandwiches 150 Sous Vide Lemon Curd 174
Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples 150 Fruit Curds 174
Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Confit and Basil 150 Foamed Lemon Curd 174
Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Ham and Mushrooms 150 Raspberry Panna Cotta 175
Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot Marmalade 150 Fruit Jellies 175
Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Confit 150 Vegetarian Panna Cotta 175
Sous Vide Vanilla Creme Anglaise 176
Chapter 20: Risotto and Paella 151 Sabayon 176
How to Pressure-Cook Risotto and Paella 151 Pistachio Gelato 177
How to Parcook and Finish Risotto and Paella 151 Hazelnut Gelato 177
Vegetable Risotto 152 Strawberry Macadamia Gelato 177
Pressure-Cooked Risotto 152 P. B. & ]. Gelato 177
Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco 153 Flaky Pie Crust 178
Risotto and Paella Variations 154 Double Almond, Brown Butter, Gingerbread, Peanut,
Arborio Rice with Caramelized Squash and Saffron 154 Carrot, Cheese, Coconut, Raspberry, and Chocolate Crusts 178
Forbidden Rice with Squid Ink and Sous Vide Clams 154 Sous Vide Vanilla-Cinnamon Pastry Cream 180
Steel-Cut Oats with Sous Vide Braised Snails 154 Amaretto, Lemon, Coconut, Ginger, Cheese, Pressure-Infused
Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine 154 Coffee, Chocolate, and Firm Pastry Creams 181
Quinoa with Pistachio Pesta and Asparagus 155 Pie Toppings 182
Farro with Chicken, Artichokes, and Black Olives 155 Apple Foam 182
Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin and Cocoa 155 Blowtorched-Caramelized Bananas 182
Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli- Gruyere Puree 155 Cocoa Nib and Cardamom Dust 182
Passion Fruit Glaze 182
Chapter 21: Cornmeal 156 Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder 182
Pressure-Cooked Polenta 156 Caramelized Almonds 182
Corn Juice Grits 156 Cream Pies 183
Shrimp and Grits 157 Apple, Ginger, Raspberry Lemon, Chocolate, Almond and Cherry,
Cheese Grits 157 Banana, Savory Cheese, and Coconut Cream Pies 183
Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales 158
Corn Juice Tamales 158 Reference Tables 184
Hush Puppies 158 Index 195

Chapter 22: Dishes for the Microwave 160

Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan 160
Sichuan Bok Choy 161
Bok Choy Medley 162
Autumn Flavors Bok Choy 162
Microwaved Potato Salad 162
Best Bets for Cooking Vegetables in the Microwave Oven 162
Microwaved Black Cod with Scallions and Ginger 163
Microwaved Sea Bass, Tilapia, Halibut, or Sole 163
Aromatic Microwaved Cod 163
Microwaved BeefJerky 164
Spicy Jerky 164
Smoky Jerky 164
BiltongJerky 164
Crispy Beef Strands 166
Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad 167
Crispy Shallots 167
Microwave-Fried Parsley 168
Instant Chocolate Sponge 169
Peanut Butter Sponge 169
Sesame Sponge 169
Raspberry Macadamia Nut Sponge 169
 Refined and Unrefined Oils
Fundamentally, all oils are composed of various
kinds of fats. The flavor of an oil comes from small
amounts of other compounds that are suspended
in the fats. These additional compounds affect
both the smoke point of the oil and how it reacts
to oxidation.
Some oils are flavorful and have a creamy
mouthfeel because they are only filtered, not
refined. These oils are useful in making emul-
sions and doughs, as well as to flavor foods.
But unrefined oils should never be used at high
heat because they quickly break down, begin
to smoke, and start to taste bad.
Refined oils have had the majority of their
"impurities" removed, including nearly all of
the compounds that impart aroma and flavor.
As a result, refined oils are much more stable
for storage and high-temperature cooking.
Animal fats and clarified butter share many
of the properties of refined oils. These fats tend
to solidify at room temperature, a characteristic
particularly valuable for making pastry dough.
NEUTRAL OILS
In this book, we typically refer to refined oils as
"neutral oils" because they can be used for their
properties as oils without adding flavor. The
neutral oils listed in the table below have varied
characteristics, but several may be suitable for a
particular application. Use what you have on hand.
When deep-frying or sauteing over high heat,
choose an oil that has a high smoke point. Con-
versely, when making pastry dough, you'll get
the best results from oils that are solid near room
temperature.
FLAVORFUL OILS
The flavorful oils listed in the table on the next
page are best used either for cooking at low tem-
peratures or for finishing a dish. Flavorful oils that
are pressed from nuts or seeds are usually available
in both virgin and roasted forms; roasting adds
depth to the flavor. You can also add flavor to oils
by infusing them w ith herbs, citrus peels, spices,
chili peppers, or garlic. Never cook with infused
oils, however: as soon as they are heated, they lose
their aroma and begin to develop off-flavors.

Neutral Oils
Oils are products of nature and are pressed and refined by using a wide range of techniques. As a result, the
temperature at which an oil starts to smoke (the smoke point) or catches fire (the flash point) can vary cons id erably
for a particular oi l from one supplier(or even one bottle) to another. The temperatures given in this table and the
one on the next page provide a general guide, but your o il s may perform differently.

Smoke point Flash point

Fat (' C) (' F) (' C) (' F) Notes
beef tallow 205 400 265 510 distinct aroma; melting point: 54 ' C/ 129 ' F
canola (rapeseed) oil 225 435 275 525 prone to off-flavors; readily absorbed by food
ch icken fat 190 375 255 490 melting point: 54 ' C/ 129 ' F
clarified butter 252 485 also called "ghee"; flavor depends on production
coconut oil, refined 195 385 290 555 melting point: 25 ' C/ 77 ' F
corn oil 230 445 335 635 drains well
duck fat 190 375 255 490 melting point: 54 ' C/ 129 ' F
grapeseed oil 200 390 250 480 rich in fatty acids; oxidizes eas ily
peanut oil, refined 230 445 330 625 good for deep-frying; may be a ll ergenic
pork lard 200 390 240 465 melting point: 33 ' C/ 91 ' F
safflower oil 240 465 260 500
soybean oil 235 455 330 625 prone to off-flavors from oxidation and heating
sunflower oil 235 455 275 525 poor-quality oil; tends to foam

v i ii MODERN I ST CUISINE AT HOME

Flavorful Oils
Smoke point
Fat (OC) (oF) Notes
almond oil 216 420 very mild, light, and slightly sweet
avocado oil, unrefined 271 520 the only oil he re that should be used for sauteing above low heat
butter, whole 135 275 sweet and creamy
coconut oil, virgin 177 350
Argan oil is popular among chefs
hazelnut oil 221 430 toasted variety especially reminiscent of haze lnuts and foodies because of its unique
macadamia nut oil 210 410 very light flavor provenance and its occasionally
intense feral flavor. Traditionally,
olive oil, extra-virgin 210 410 flavors vary widely with olive variety, provenance, a nd processing t he Berbers in Morocco harvested
peanut oil, unrefined 160 320 dense and heavy, with distinct flavor the fruits of the Argan t ree by feed-
ing them to herds of goats. After
pistachio oil 177 350 bright green, with grassy notes
passing through the goats' digestive
pumpkin seed oil 105 220 very low smoke point; do not heat systems, the seeds were co ll ected,
toasted-sesame oil 210 410 high-quality oil; available toasted and untoasted; high in antioxidants cleaned, and pressed . (Less inter-
esting methods of producing this
walnut oil 160 320 slightly tart and grassy rare oil are now more commo n.)
Sources: journal ofAmerican Oil Chemists' Society, vo l. 19, no. 11, 193 -198; Vegetable Oils in Food Technology, Blackwell, 2002;
Ullmann's Encyclopedia ofindustrial Chemistry, Wiley, 2000; Modernist Cuisine: TheArtand Science ofCooking, Th e Cooking
Lab, 2011

THE SCIENCE OF

"Lightly Cooked" Food

In a handful of our recipes, the cooking regulators, but they most likely thought
temperatures we recommend fall below that providing both temperatures and times
those listed in guidelines published by the would be too complicated. If you don't
U.S. Food and Drug Administration or the understand th e meaning of time, however,
U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA). you've got bigger problems in the kitchen SAFETY TIPS FOR LIGHTLY
We've marked these recipes "lightly cooked." than food safety. COOKED FOOD
Lightly cooked food shou ld be
You should not serve these foods (or raw Once you eliminate time from the stan-
prepared in much the same way
foods) to immune-compromised people. dards, the strong tendency is to choose that we recommend preparing
Why don't we always follow govern- a temperature so hot that it can produce all food. Seek out the best ingre-
dients, handle and prepare them
ment guidelines? Once upon a time, some the required level of pathogen reduction
hygienically, and cook them
well-meaning officials decided that food nearly instantaneously. This impractically precisely. The one major differ-
safety recommendations should include high temperature invariably leads to over- ence is that lightl y cooked food
should be se rved imm ed iate ly;
only temperatures rather than time-and- cooked meat, seafood, and vegetables.
leftovers shou ld be discarded.
temperature combinations. This decision, As we did extensive research for The reason is that pathogens
perhaps the worst oversimplification in all Modernist" Cuisine (where we cover this much more quickly co lonize
and propagate in foods below
of food safety, has led to years of confusion topic in greater detail), we found numerous
50 OC/ 120 °F. So if you eat lig htly
and mountains of ruined food. puzzles, inconsistencies, and mistakes in coo ked food imm ed iately,
Scientifically speaking, you need the right food safety regulations. Some have since you're fine, but if yo u first let it
sit a round for a bit, yo u're tak-
combination of both time and temperature been corrected; for example, the USDA's
ing a n unn ecessa ry risk. Raw and
to kill pathogens. Why give temperature- recommended cooking temperature for lightly cooked food should not
only rules when the science says otherwise? pork is now 63 °( / 145 °F instead of71 °( / be served to anyone who has a
comprom ised immune system.
One can only guess at the reasoning of 160 °F. But most have not.

iX
HOW TO Tare a Digital Scale - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - - - - - -- - -

1 Place a piece of parchment or waxed paper

on the scale to ensure that you don't leave
traces of the ingredient on the weighing
platform. You ca n use a bowl on larger
scales.
2 Tare (zero) t he sca le by pressing the tare
button to reset th e sca le to zero. Now the
sca le w ill weigh on ly the ingredient, not
the co ntain er.
3 Add t he approp ri ate measure of the ingre-
dient. If add ing a second ingred ient, repeat
ste p 2 to reset th e sca le to zero.

When writing your own reci pes, you can use the tare button in two handy If you are instead co mbining ingredie nts in another co ntainer (such as in
ways to record the weights of the ingred ien ts yo u use.lfyou can combin e a pot or blend er), place more oft he ingredient than you w ill need on t he
the ingredients in a bowl on the sca le, tare before you ad d each ingred ient sca le, tare it, and then add to taste from the sca le. The amo unt that yo u
to taste. Write down t he amo unt ad d ed before you tare aga in. removed from th e sca le wi ll show up on th e display as a negative weight.

HOW TO Test the Accuracy of a Thermometer - -- - - -- -- - - - - - - - - - - - --

1 Test th e range and accuracy of your th ermometer as soon as you buy

it by using a pot of bo iling water or a glass of crushed ice and water. 3 Th e displ ay should read 0 oc/32 °F in ice water at any elevation or
abo ut 100 °C/ 212 °F in boiling water at sea level. (You can easily
Stir the crushed ice with t he waterfor1 minute to make sure the look up the variation of boiling point by elevation or air pressure
temperature is even ly distributed . at websites such as www.csgnetwork.co m/ h2oboilca lc.html.)

2 Insert the probe into the water. Take care to kee p the probe from
touching the container. 4 Digital thermometers that are off by more than 2 °C/ 4 °F should be
adjusted by a profess ional.

SAFETY TIPS FOR BLOWTORCHING THE HAZARDS OF PUNCTURING

Th e risk of gett ing burned whi le blowtorching food is simil ar to that of
oil splattering wh ile deep-frying. Keep alco ho l and cigarettes away from
a blowtorch, and read and follow all manufacturer's instructions . If th e
food has a lot of fat in it, co nsid er wearing safety goggles . Before you
light the torch, set your food on a thick roasting tray placed on the stove
top. All surfaces shou ld be heat-safe. Don't use thin baking sheets, and
remem ber that the tray is hot after torching, so don't touch it with bare
hand s.
Poking, perforating, or otherwise pun cturing pieces of meat can co n-
taminate it. If you are inse rting a temperature probe, inj ecti ng brin es or
marin ades, or tenderizing meat with a j accard, yo u wil l push any patho-
gens on the surface of the meat into the interior. This sl ightly in creases
the risk of food borne illness.
Adhering to safe cooking times and temperatures, howeve r, will
mitigate the risk. If you are rea lly co ncerned, then yo u ca n dip the meat
in hot water to blanch it befo re puncturing it. Water at 76 oc / 170 °F
sa nitizes the surface in one second. Or qui ckly sear th e su rface with
a blowtorch. Co ntam ination occurs onl y on t he surface; yo u don't have
to cook food all th e way through to pasteurize it.

2 MODERNIST CUISIN E AT HOME

HOW TO Use a Siphon

CARBONATING
Create a sparkling drink or give porous food a surprising fizz. We slice tart, fizzy raisins. You need three cartridges of carbon dioxide to get
carbonated grapes over chil led oysters and pair rich pates with sweet, really good carbonation in a one-liter wh ippin g siphon or soda siphon.

1 Chill both the liquid and the sip hon. Carbon dioxide is most so luble
in cold liquids. 4 Insert one or two more ca rtrid ges of ca rbon dioxide; do not dispense
any of the gas . Shake the siphon vigorously for 5- 10 seconds.

2 Pour in a cold liquid or add a chilled fruit. Do not overfill. Tighten

the lid. 5 Refrigerate this siphon to all ow the gas to fully dissolve into the liquid.
Let liquids sit for 2- 4 hours. Let fruit sit for at least 4 hours, but prefer-
ably for 8- 10 hours. Don't open the siphon until you serve the fruit.

3 Insert the first ca rb on dioxide cartridge, while holding the siphon

upright. Hold down the nozzle to blow out the gas. The venting step
is important because it replaces the air sitting above the liquid with
carbon dioxide.
6 Open the siphon by holding it upright, pressing a cloth against the
nozzle to conta in any liquid, and slowly releasing the gas. Then re-
move the siphon lid, and pour out the soda or fruit. Dispensing soda
through the nozzle results in a tingly and foamy drink, not a fizzy one,
because the gas exits the liquid too quickly.

PRESSURE-INFUSING AND PRESSURE-MARINATING

You can use the high gas pressure in a siphon to force liquid into a 20 minutes to marinate instead ofl-12 hours. Infusing porous fruit w ith
sol id, thus speeding up the processes of infusing, brining, or marinat- liquid is a fun twist-think strawberries and lemonade, app le slices
ing (see page 50). Meat cut into cubes for kebabs, for examp le, takes bursting with apple juice, or watermelon with hints of green tea.

1 Add cubes of meat to the siphon, and cover them with marinade or
brine. To infuse fruit with a liquid, add the fruit and enough liquid 3 Refrigerate the siphon for 20 minutes to let the flavors infuse.

to cover it. Tighten the lid.

4 Open the siphon by holding it upright, presssing a cloth against
the nozzle to contain any liquid, and slowly releasing the gas. Then

2 Charge the siphon w ith nitrous oxide. Use two cartrid ges in a
1 L siphon. Shake vigorous ly for 5-10 seconds.
unscrew the siphon lid, and pour out the contents.

FOAMING
Whipping siphons were designed for aerating cream that is high in fat.
(Nitrous oxide dissolves much better in fat than in water.) But you can
foam any liquid thick enough to hold bubbles. Add starch, gelatin, eggs,
or agar to t hin liquids to give them enough body for foaming. A fine,
creamy foam comforts and provides contrasting texture, like m as hed
potatoes, or whipped cream atop a dense dessert. Light, acidic, and airy
foams can contribute an additiona l layer of flavor. The more air in the
foam, the less concentrated its flavor, so use a very strong liquid when
making a foam to serve as a garn ish or sauce. A foam used to top some
other flavorful food may not need to be as intense. It's a matter of finding
the right balance.

1 Add the liquid to the siphon, and tighten the

lid. Do not overfill it. 2 Charge the siphon with on ly one cartridge
of nitrous oxide. Shake vigorously for
5-10 seconds. R~sting is unnecessary;
the gas dissolves quickly.
3 Turn the siphon upside down, and press the
lever to dispense a bit of foam. Check the
texture. One cartridge is usually sufficient
for high-fat liquids. Add more cartridges
to create progressively thicker foams. The
foam will release any gas it can't hold, so an
extra charge won't ruin it. Shake the siphon
each time before you dispense the fo am.

COUNTERTOP TOOLS 3
HOW TO Calibrate Your Oven - -- - -- - - - -- - -- - -- - -- - -- -- - -

Each oven ha s its own persona lity. The one in your hom e is no excep-
t ion. You don't necessar ily understand why it does what it does. You
have only a vague idea what the temperature in your oven actually
is . But by trial and error you have figured out what you have to do
to achieve the result you're t rying to ach ieve. Wou ldn't it be nice to
add some pred ictabi lity to the situation? We have a remedy for t his
re lationship: calibrate your oven.
To do that, you need a good digita l thermometer that includes an
oven-safe probe and w ire lead, as wel l as some patience . If you have
graph paper or a spreadsheet program, you can make a quick chart to
get a handle on how the temperatu re in your oven fluctuates as heat
leaks out the door and the thermostat turns the burner up and down .
You can also map the hot and co ld spots insid e.

1 Preheat the oven. Then clip the probe of

a digital oven thermometer(see page 8 in
the main vol um e) to the rack. The end of
the probe sho uld hang in the air and point
toward the center of the oven. Close the
oven door, and wa it a few minutes for
the temperature to recover. Write down
both the temperature yo u set and t he true
temperature shown on the thermometer.
2 Move t he prob e to various spots in your
oven, if you're curious. Oven wa lls always
radiate heat uneven ly. The walls are thicker
or darker in some spots than in others, and
some parts of t he wa ll are closer to the
burne rs or heating elements than others .
So the temperatu re can fluctuate by te ns
of degrees from one spot to another. Be
sure to give the oven time to recover its
temperature after you close the door.
3 Repeat these measurements at various tem-
perature settings-say, every 50 degrees.
The thermostat is often much less accu-
rate at th e low end of the sca le than it is at
higher temperatures. You might also record
how long it takes your oven to preheat from
room te mperatu re to various set points; you
can then more accurately estimate the tota l
time that baking recipes wi ll requ ire.

HOW TO De ep-Fry Without a Deep Fryer

We're big fans of deep-frying as a fin ishi ng tech ni que after coo king so us and the proper too ls to insert and retri eve the food from a safe dista nce :
vide. You don't need to own a dedicated frye r. You j ust need a d eep pot long tongs, a slotted deep-fry spoon, o r a fry ing basket.

1 Choose an appropriate frying oil (see page vi ii). Peanut, soybean,

and sun flower oils are our favorites for frying at high temperatures. 4 Pat the food dry with paper towe ls. Externa l moisture causes the oil to
sp latter.

2 Add the oil to a d ee p pot, but fi ll it no more than ha lf fu ll. Use enough
oil so that you can submerge a sma ll batch of food comp lete ly. 5 Deep-fry the cooked food . j ust 30 seconds may be eno ugh when you
don't want to further cook the interior of the food. Allow the oi l tem-
perature to recover between batches .

3 Preheat the oil to the cook ing temperature . For consistent resu lts, cook
small batches to minimize the coo ling that occu rs when you add the
food, and warm food to room temperatu re before fryi ng it. 6 Dra in th e food on paper towels . Absorbing excess oil removes much of
the fat.

SAFETY TIPS FOR DEEP-FRYING

Our recipes call forfrying at temperatures between 190 •c / 375 •Fand
225 •c; 440 •F. That's hot! Frying in oil can be more dangerous than other
high-heat cooking methods, so you must fol low some simp le ru les.
Make sure your thermo mete r can displ ay te mpe ratu res up to 26 0 ·c;
500 •F. Frying, candy, and thermocouple thermometers usua lly have this
. Choose a frying oil that has a smoke po int higher t han the des ired cooking
much range. You don't want to be foo led by the wrong temperature.
Deep -fry food in enough oil th at the food fl oats and does not touch the
pan . The re lated techniq ue of shal low fryi ng uses enough oi l to cover at
least part of t he food.
Use a deep pot. Ge nerally th e wa lls of the pot shou ld rise at least l O em /
4 in above the oi l so t hat t here are no spi ll overs. This also helps conta in
sp lattering and makes clea nu p eas ier.
Pat t he food dry before you place it in the oil. Use paper towe ls to soak up
excess moisture, which can cause violent sp lattering when it hits the oi l.
D on't get too close to t he oil. Use long tongs, a slotted deep-fry spoon,
or a frying basket to p lace the food gently into the oi l and to remove it.
tempe rature. The smoke poi nts of common oi ls are listed on page vi ii.
At these temperatures, oils break down and produce off-flavors.
If t he oil gets too hot, re move it from th e heat . Turn off the burner. You
may also need to move the pot carefully off of an electric bu rn er. If you
see the oil smoki ng, it is too hot.
Neve r use w ater, fl o ur, or sugar to pu t o ut a grease fi re. And d o not try
to carry a flam ing pot outdoo rs. Use baki ng soda, a damp towe l, or a fire
exti nguis her specificall y des igned for grease fires to su ffocate a fi re.

4 MODERNIST CU IS INE AT HOME

HOW TO Use a Pressure Cooker
Cooks who are new to pressure-cooking often use too m uch heat and
overpressurize the cooker. It's important to realize that ove rpressurizing
the cooker do es n't make the temperature in sid e it any higher- it merely
causes the safety va lve to re lease steam, wh ich allows t he water insid e to
1 Prepare the ingredients. If you will be browning onions or other
aromatics before pressure-cooking them, save a pan by saute ing
the food directly in the base ofthe pressure coo ker before covering
it with the lid.
2 Add all of the ingredients, stir, and lock the lid. Stirring to even ly
distribute th e liquid orfat is important to keep bits from burning
on the bottom of the cooker. Once yo u lock the lid, you won't be
ab le to stir aga in .
3 Warm the coo ker on the stove top over med ium-high heat. Watch
or listen for the cues that the cooker has reached fu ll pressure, and
then turn the heat down to low. Adju st the heat as needed to keep
the cookerful ly pressurized.
4 Start timing the cooking as soon as the cooker reaches the target gauge
pressure given in the recipe. If your cooker has a spri ng- loaded pres-
sure va lve, the valve shou ld pop up just to the line, not beyond it. The
cooker should not hiss loudly. If you have a jiggling-weight pressure
valve, the weight should move th ree to five times a minute; it sho uldn't
dance aro und wild ly.
SAFETY TIPS FOR PRESSURE-COOKING
Read and fo ll ow the safety instruction s in the manual that came with the
cooker.
Releasi ng a pressure cooker li d while its contents are still hot ca n sp lat-
ter boiling water or food all over the kitchen-o r you. Before opening the
cooker, use the pressure-release button, let the cooker sit, or coo l the
pot und er running water. Th e pressure va lve will sink down fully when the ·
cooker is depressurized and is safe to open.
Before cooking, check that the ri ng of rubb er lin ing aro und the lid isn't
dri ed out or cracked. Th ese gaskets don 't last forever; rep lace them
as reco mm end ed by th e manufacturer.
Make sure the rim of the pot and the gasket are clean; any food particles
stuck there could break the seal.
CONVENTIONAL COOKING GEAR
resume boi ling. Repeated ove rpressurization can ruin both t he flanges
and the sea l around the li d. Fam il iarize yourse lf with the manufacturer's
instructions for und erstandin g when yo ur cooker is fully pressurized,
overpressurized, and d epress urized.
5 After cook ing, remove the pressure cooker from the heat, and let it
coo l. You can simp ly let the cooker sit for severa l minutes to cool down
if the food can tolerate some additiona l cooking (as stocks can, for
examp le). For foods that are more time-sensitive, such as risottos,
run lu kewarm water over the rim of the lid to depressurize the cooke r
quickly. (Don't let water run into th e pressure va lve.) Some cookers
have a manual quick-release knob or dial; be su re to read the manufac-
turer's instructions on how to use this feature safe ly. Never attempt to
open a pressurized cooker. Not on ly w ill it spray hot liquid, but yo u'll
also lose a lot of the fl avorful va pors.
6 Set the cooke r in the kitchen sink, and unl ock the lid. If the lid is
difficult to open, don't force it; let the cooker cool longer until it
opens w ith little resistance.
7 If the food isn't done, simp ly fin ish it on the stove top without sealing
th e lid . Alternatively, return the pressure cooker to ful l pressure, and
continue cooking.
Pressure-Coo king in Cann ing Jars
Severa l recipes in this book take advantage of cook ing in ca nning jars
(a lso known as M aso n jars). We use th em for ingred ients t hat wou ld
otherwise need an intensive amount of stirring, such as pol enta, and for
mak ing sma ll batches of rendered fat, garl ic co n fit, or extra cted jui ces.
A lways leave at least 1.3 cm / Y, in ofheadspace when fi ll ing t he jars. The
jars should also never touch the bottom of th e cooker. Set them on a
metal rack or trivet-o r, in a pin ch, on crumpl ed sheets of aluminum fo il.
Add enough water to cover the rack so that the pressure coo ker can build
up steam. Afterfully tightening the lids of t he j ars, loosen them a quarter
turn; otherwise, the pressure may crack the j ars or blow their lids off in-
sid e the coo ker. After using a jar fo r pressure-cooking, inspect the glass
for cracks befo re cook ing with it agai n.
Don't fil l the cooker more th an two-thirds full. For beans and gra ins, wh ich
tend to swe ll as they cook, fill the cooker only half full.
Avoid cook ing foods that froth, like oatmeal and pasta. The foam can block
the stea m va lves and pressure-release vents.
Tip the opening away from you as you lift the lid off the cooker to protect
yourse lffrom the steam that is re leased.
Use cann ing tongs to remove hot can ni ng jars from the cooker, and let th e
co ntents cool slightly before open ing the j ars .
HOW TO Use an Edge Sealer

Edge sealers bring vacuum sealing within reach of most home cooks. well, but you can freeze or otherwise solidify liquids before sea li ng
An edge sealer requi res specially textured bags . It doesn't handle liqu ids them. Seal food only when it is cold.

1 Use a premade textured bag, or make your own by cutting a suitab le

length of waffle-textured plastic from a roll and using the sea l-only
option to close one end . Flip the top 4 cm / l Y., in of the bag inside out
to keep it clean and prevent a faulty seal.
3 Place the open end of the bag in the vacuum sea ler so that it rests on
the sealing strip and extends into the vacuum reservoir (on some mod-
els, this happens automatically when you insert the bag into the sealer).
Stretch the bag flat across the sealing strip as you place it to prevent any
wrink les, which cause a poor seal.

2 Fill the bag with food, and unfold the lip of the bag. Delicate foods,
such as sa lmon, will keep their shape better if you first wrap them in
cling film.
4 Close the lid, and engage the vacuum pump (on a FoodSaver, for
example, press the Sea l button). The pump will stop on its own.
Although it is possible to seal liquids by pressing the Seal button
to stop the vacuum just before the liquid gets sucked in, it makes
qu ite a mess if your timing is off. For extra security, you can place
a second seal about 5 mm /Y., in above the first seal.

Using an impulse sealer

An impulse sealer only sea ls; it doesn't remove air. But this stapler-looking
tool has its advantages. Impulse sealers cost about half as much as edge
sea lers. And they are handy too ls for sea ling oven bags and mak ing custom-
sized so us vide bags from a bulk ro ll of plastic: two optio ns that wo rk better
for sto rage and high-temperature cook ing tha n zip-top bags do. An impulse
sea ler can also seal liquids without risking the mess that usua lly occurs
when using an edge sealer.
SAFETY TI P FOR VACUUM SEALI NG
Vacuum-sealed food is not the same as canned food. Even in the absence
of oxygen, any anaerobic bacteria on or in the food wi ll continue to grow.
So you shou ld store food in vacuum-sealed bags on ly in a refrigerator or
freezer. In genera l, U.S. Food and Drug Adm inistration gu ideli nes state
that you can keep vacuum-sealed food in the refrigeratorfor five days or
in the freezer indefinitely.

HOW TO Seal Food in a Zip-Top Bag

If you need to seal food along w it h a liq ui d, o r if you do n't have a vacuum air from t he bag. The water-d isplacement method is the more effective
sealer, ordinary zip -top bags offer a handy alternative to vacu um sea l- technique, and it doesn't require as much liquid in the bag to remove
ing. The two methods be low all ow you to q ui ckly remove m uch of t he nea rl y all of t he ai r.

BY WATER DISPLACEMENT

1 Fill a bowl or si nk with water, and place the

food along with some oil or water in a zip- 2 Slowly lower the open bag into the water.
The water squeezes the air out of the bag 3 Seal the bag when the water level is
1-2 mm / Y•• in be low t he zip sea l.
top bag. The liquid is needed to remove as and p resses the plastic tightly around the
much air as possible and to prevent the bag food.
from floating. If you'll be cook ing the food
immediately, there's no need for an extra
bowl: just use the warm water bath itself to
· seal the bag.

ON THE EDGE OF A COUNTERTOP

1 Place the food and enough liqu id to cover

it in a zip -top bag, grasp the top ofthe bag, 2 Ho ld the bag taut, and lower it slowly. The
edge of the co unter shou ld squeeze the air 3 Whe n the seal reaches the edge of the
co unter, zip it closed.
and hang the fi ll ed part of th e bag over t he out of the bag.
co unte r so that the top of t he li qu id is j ust
below t he edge of t he cou ntertop. Thi s
method requires enough liquid in the bag
to completely surround the food; other-
wise, air pockets form around the food.

6 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

HOW TO Use a Handheld Pump - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

If you don't have the countertop or cupboard space for an edge sealer, Like an edge sea ler, a handheld pump doesn't work we ll with liqu id s.
a more compact a lternative is a special kind of zip-top bag that includes Po rted bags tend to lose vacuum over time, so they are best suited
a built-in port for a handheld pump . The pump costs about $20; the for immediate cook ing and short-term storage of foods that yo u use
bags are relatively expens ive, but some are reusable after washing. regu larly, such as cheese a nd fresh produce.

1 Place the food in the bag in a single layer,

leaving the top third of the bag free. Zip
2 Press the handheld pump over the port
on the bag, and push the start button.
3 Let the pump run until it has sucked out
the air and sealed the bag around the food.
the seal closed.

HOW TO Compress Fruits and Vegetables - - - -- -- - -- -- - - -- -- - - - -

Vacuum sea ling delicate fruits and vegetab les is tricky: they are too for example, becomes pleasantly dense when it is vacuum sea led.
porous to hold their structure under pressure, so the process often Compressed peaches and waterme lon seem juicier and denser. After
crushes them. But there are creative ways to turn this drawback to compressing produ ce, keep it sealed until you 're ready to use it.
an advantage as a way to manipulate texture and color. Pineapple,

1 Peel the fruit or vegetab le if necessary,

and cut it into evenly sized pieces. In the
case of strawberries, we like to combine
them with a bit of sugar.
2 Arrange the food in a single layer in a so us
vide bag, and begin vacuum sealing it. The
vacuum causes air pockets, call ed vacuoles,
in the plant cel ls to burst.
3 As more vacuoles collapse, the food
darkens.
4 Let the produce rest in the bag for at least
10 minutes after the vacuum sea ling is
comp lete before using it.

COOKING SOUS VIDE 7

HOW TO Check the Core Temperature (Without Obsessing About It)

One of the benefits of cooking so us v id e is that it greatly red uces anxiety
about time and temperature. If you leave the food in for a li tt le more
time than the recipe suggests, the conseq uences aren't nearly as per-
ceptible as they are when you cook on a stove top or in a hot oven.
That sa id, doing a quick temperature check eve ry once in a wh il e will
help you learn how long it takes to heat various foods to particular
temperatures.
Use eith er o f the two methods be low to insert a d igital thermometer
into the fo od w ithout interrupting the cook ing. But do th is in modera-
tio n: there is no need to check the temperature frequently.
Many of o ur recipes ca ll for coo king food to a specific core temper-
ature. What we mea n by "core temperature" is t he temp erature at th e
ce nter of the th ickest part of the food-the part that heat reaches last
as it diffuses through the food .

ZIP-TOP BAG IN A BATH

Using an Instant-Read Thermometer

1 While the food is cooking, lift out ju st the top of the bag, and open it.
Keep the bag submerged in th e water so that the food doesn't coo l, 3 Remove the thermometer, was h it well with soapy water or sanitize it
w ith an an tibacterial hand wipe, and then rinse it we ll.
which would change the cook ing time, and so that the bag doesn't
fil l w ith air.
4 Lower the bag into th e water until ju st the top edge is above the sur-
face (see How to Sea l Food in a Zip-Top Bag by Water Displacement,

2 Insert the tip of the probe into the middle ofthe thickest part of the
food. Hold the t hermometer in place until the reading stab ili zes at the
page 6), and then press the top closed agai n.

core temperature; the first reading it gives may be the higher tempera-
ture near the surface of the food.

Using an Oven Probe Thermometer

1 Befo re cook ing, insert the tip of the probe

into the middle ofthe thickest part ofthe
food. Push the probe in at an angle so that it
remains in place during cooking. Check that
the probe hasn't penetrated all the way to
the other side.
2 Lower t he bag into the water until just the
top edge is above the su rfa ce (see How
to Sea l Food in a Zip-Top Bag by Water
Displacement, page 6), and then press
the top closed aro und the probe. The sea l
shou ld hold the probe in place, but it will
not be watertight.
3 Clip the bag to the side of the bath so that
t he top is above the wate r lin e. Make su re
the food in the bag is comp lete ly subme rged.
Run the lead wi re from the probe between
t he lid and the rim of the cooker so that the
lid covers t he bath as tightly as possible.

VACUUM-SEALED BAG IN A BATH

1 Fill the bag with food, and then sea l it. When coo king mu ltip le bags of
food in one bath, p lace portions of the same size in each of the bags. 3 Ca refully p lace t he bag w ith the probe into t he bath, and thread the
lead w ire between the lid and the rim of the cooker so that the lid
That way, yo u can leave t he thermometer in one of th e bags during covers the bath as tightly as possib le.
the entire cooking process; the temperature of all the others will be
approximate ly the same. Place the probe in the largest piece to ensu re
that al l of the p ieces cook fully.

2 Before dunking t he bag in water, press a sma ll sq uare of weather-

stripping tape or other thick foam tape (ava ilable from hardwa re and
home improveme nt stores) onto the outside of t he sealed bag. Place
the tape a bit off ce nter from the part of t he food you want to check
so that you can insert the thermometer probe at an angle. Need le-
t ipped probes are preferable because Food Saver bags are tough and
not eas il y pierced by larger probes un less the food inside is dense,
such as steak. Insert the thermometer probe through t he tape and bag
at an angle into the center of the food at its thi ckest part. It may help to
place the bagged food on a cutting board fi rst. The foa m tape forms a
seal arou nd the probe that keeps water out of the bag. The probe must
remai n in place to preserve the seal.

8 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

PRESSURE-COOKED WHITE CHICKEN STOCK

YIELD: 1.2 kg/ 5 cups

TIME EST IM ATE: 1¥1 hours, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 1!1 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: meat grinder or food processor, pressure cooker
USED IN : Aromatic Chicken Broth (see page 120)

This recipe makes a white chicken stock. It can also be made chickens can be substituted for the chicken wings; freeze them until
using other fowl by simply replacing the chicken meat and bones you have enough to make a batch of stock. To make a brown chicken
with those of duck or game fowl. Carcasses left over from roasted stock, see the variation b elow.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Chicken wings, chopped 700 g/ l. 51b 6-8 wings 70% 0 Cover with cold water in a pot, and bring just to a bo il.
0 Drain the ch icken immediately, discarding the water.
Boneless, sk inl ess chicken 700 g/ 1.5 1b from 6 thighs 70% ® Grind coarsely in a food processor or meat grinder.
thigh meat
Water 1 kg 1 L/ 4Y. cups 100% 0 Combine with the blanched and ground chicken in a pressure cooker.
Sweet onion, thinly sli ced 100g 1 cup 10% ® Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for1 Y2 hours. Start
Carrots, thinly sl iced 50g Y. cup 5% timing when full pressure is reached.
Leeks, thinly sli ced 50g Yo cup 5% ® Depressurize the cooker.
Garlic, thinly sli ced lOg ,y, Tbsp 1% 0 Strain through a fine sieve.
Ita lian parsley 2g 2-3 sprigs 0.2% ® Use the stock in warm or co ld dishes.
Black peppercorns 1g y, tsp 0.1 %
Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 5

1 Cover the chopped chi cken wings with co ld water in a pot, and bring
it just to a boil to blanch the ch icken and remove the bitter flavor from 5 Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 1Y2 hours. Start
timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.
the bones. Roasting the bones has the same effect.

6 Let the cooker coo l, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.

2 Drain th e chicken as soon as the water starts to boil; discard the water.
We have found , through extens ive blind taste tests, that white stocks
have better flavor and clarity when made with blanched meat and 7 Stra in the stock through a fine sieve; discard the solids.

bon es .
8 Use the stock in warm or co ld dishes .

3 Grind the chicken thigh meat in a meat grinder or food processor.

4 Comb in e the water, onions, carrots, leeks, garli c, Ita lian parsley, and
peppercorns with the blanched wing pieces a nd ground thigh meat in
a pressure cooker.

VARIATION: Brown Chicken Stock

At step 1, toss the chopped wings in 75 g/ 80 mL/ y, cup of neutral frying
oil, and roast them in a 190 oC/ 375 °F oven until they turn brown, about
20 minutes. Procee d with step 3, and then pan fry the ground chicken in
oil over medium -high heat until the meat turns golden, about10 minutes.
Continue with step 4.

STOCKS 9
PRESSURE-COOKED BROWN BEEF STOCK

YIELD: 1 kg/ 41,4 cups

TIME ESTIMATE: 3!6 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 3 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker, oxtail
USED IN: Red Wine Glaze (see page 20)i French Onion Soup (see variation on page 45)i Thai Sweet,
Sour, and Savory Glaze (see page 33)i Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps (see variation on
page 95)

Our recipe for brown beef stock avoids much of the fuss and ritual Simply substitute the appropriate ground meat and flavorful, meaty
typically associated with this classic kitchen staple. You can easily bones. Shanks, knuckles, and other bony cuts of beef can be substi-
adapt this recipe to make brown pork, lamb, veal, and game stocks. tuted for the oxtail.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Oxtail, jointed 500 g / l.llb 6-8 pieces 100% @ Preheat the oven to 190 •c/375 •F.
Rendered beef fat or 30g 30 mL/ 2 Tbsp 6% 0 Toss together to coat, and roast until dark brown, 40- 45 minutes.
neutral frying oil
see pages 41 and viii

Beef chuck, finely ground 200 g/ 0.41b 40% 0 Sear the meat in the base of a pressure cooker over medium-high heat
Rendered beef fat or 50g 50 mL/ Y.. cup 10% until dark brown, about 8 minutes.
neutral frying oil
Water 750g 750 mL/ 3'.4 cups 150% 0 Combine with the browned beef and roasted oxtai l in the pressure
Full-bodied red wine 120g 120 mL/Y2 cup 24% cooker.
Carrots, thinly sliced 50g :Y.. cup 10% ® Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for 2Y2 hours. Start
timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.
Yellow onion, thinly sli ced 50 g Y2 cup 10%
Leeks, white parts only, @ Let the cooker coo l, or run tepid water ove r the rim, to depressurize it.
20 g :Y. cup 4%
thinly sliced 0 Strain.
Ita li an parsley lOg 4sprigs 2% ® Use the stock in warm or co ld dishes.
Thyme 1g 1-2 sprigs 0.2%
Fresh bay leaf 0.2g ll eaf 0.1%
Safety tips far pressure-cooking: see page 5

VARIATIONS
Brown Pork Stock White Beef Stock
Substitute 500 g of spare ribs or meaty pork bones for th e oxtail, 200 g of Skip steps 1-3, and substitute white wine for the red wine.
ground pork for the beef, and white wine or lager beer for the red wine.

10 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

SOUS VIDE FISH STOCK

YIELD: 800 gI 30 cups

TIME ESTIMATE: 10 hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and H4 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 3 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFI CULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQ UIREMENTS: so us vide setup, fish bones
USED IN: Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin and Cocoa (see variation on page 155), Bell Pepper Soup
(see variation on page 76)

Fish oils oxidize very easily, so to get the most flavor out of fish can also increase the gelatin content and richness of the stock by
b ones, you need to cook them gently in a sealed environment. Slow- adding skins from delicate white fish such as halibut, sole, trout, or
cooking them so us v ide produces excellent results. If fish bones are sea bass. Darker, oilier fishes like mackerel, fresh sa rdines, tuna, or
unavailable, a ny scraps of flesh or chopped fish heads will do. You salmon yield a stock that is too strongly flavored for most uses.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Dry vermouth 175 g 175 mL / 3,4 cup 23% CD Pre heat a water bath to 80 •c/176 · F.
Dry white wine 100 g 100 mL/Y2 cup 13% 0 Comb in e the wi nes in a pot, bring to a boil, a nd simme r for 5 minutes.
® Cool the mixture com pl etely.
Fish bones, cleaned, 1 kg 133% @ Comb in e with the cooled win es . Vacuum sea l if using ice; alternative ly,
rinsed, and c hopped transfer to a large (4 L/ 1 gal) zip-top bag, remove as much air from
Crushed ice (if vacuum 750g 6 cups of ice / 100% the bag as possible by using the water-d isplacement method (see
sealing) or water 750 mL of wate r page 6), and seal it.
Carrots, thinly sli ced 250g 2Y2 cups 33% ® Cook so us vide for 1\4 hours.
Onion, thinly sliced 200g 2 cups 27% @ Stra in.
Fennel, thinly sli ced 100 g 1 cup 13% 0 Use warm o r co ld .
Leeks, thinly sli ced 100g lY2 cups 13%
Garlic, th inly sli ced 15g 2Tbsp 2%

Bottled clam juice, avai labl e at most grocery stores, is a good substitute for VARIATION: Brown Fish Stock
fish stock if you don't have time to make it you rse lf. After step 3, pan fry the fish bones in 30 g / 30 mL / 2 Tbsp of neutral frying
oil until they brown, 4-6 minutes. Cool the bones comp lete ly, and then
continue with step 4.

STOCKS 11
PRESSURE-COOKED CRUSTACEAN STOCK

YIELD: 1.1 kg/ 40 cups

TIME ESTIMATE: 10 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 1 hour unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 3 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFIC ULTY: moderate
SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker; shells of lobsters, crabs, or shrimp (or whole shrimp with heads on)
USED IN: Forbidden Rice with Squid Ink and Sous Vide Clams (see variation on page 154), Shrimp and
Grits (see page 157), Thai Soup (see variation on page 121)

Anytime you find yourself with crustacean shells left over from a enough to make s tock. If you don't have shells, u se whole shrimp
seafood feast, save them! Collect them in the free zer until you have (with the heads on), which are relatively inexpensive and easy to find .

INGREDI ENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PRO CEDURE

Shells of lobste rs, cra bs, 650 g/ 1.4 1b from 21obsters 65% 0 Clea n by discarding any organs, including the gills and eyes.
crayfis h, shrimp, or of she lls or or 2 la rge crabs 0 Chop into pieces with a heavy knife or cleaver. Sma lle r p ieces infuse
prawns 650 g/ 1.41b more fl avor into th e stock.
of whole
shrimp
® Place the pi eces in a la rge (4 L/ 1 ga l) zip-to p bag. Partially sea l the bag,
cove r it with a towe l, a nd pound it with a ma lle t to crush the she lls.
Clarified, unsalted butter 50g 55 mL / Y., cup 5% @ Saute the she lls in th e base of a press ure cooker over medium heat,
or neutral-tasting oi l stirring often, until go ld en brown, 6-8 minutes.
see page 37
® Remove the shell s from th e pot, a nd reserve them for use in step 9.
Carrots, thinly sli ced 50g :Y.. cup 5% 0 Add to the pot, a nd panfry until the onions soften a nd start to brown,
Onion, thin ly sli ced 50g y, cup 5% 3- 4 minutes. Add more butter or o il as needed.
Leeks, thinly sli ced 20 g Ys cup 2%
Fennel, thinly sliced 20 g Y., cup 2%
Button mus hroo ms, 20 g Ys cup 2%
thinly sliced
Tomato paste (o ptio nal) 50 g 3 Tbsp 5% 0 Stir in, a nd co ntinu e frying until a ri ch, cooked tomato aro ma develops,
a bo ut 3 minutes. Take care not to burn t he mi xture.
Water 1 kg 1 L/ 4Y., cups 100% ® Deglaze the pot.
Dry vermo uth 150g 150 mL/o/s cup 15%
Italian parsley 2.5g 1 sprig 0.3% ® Add, a long with the sauteed shells, to the vegetable mixture, a nd stir.
Thyme 1g 1-2 sp rigs 0.1% @ Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi forT hour. Start timing
Fresh basil leaves 2g 3- 41eaves 0.2% as soon as full pressure has been reached.
Fennel seeds 0.1 g 5 seeds 0 .01 % @ Let the cooker cool, o r run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.
Saffron 2-3 threads @ Strain the stock t hrough a sieve lin ed with cheesecloth.
@ Use in warm or co ld dishes.
Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 5

12 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

VEGETABLE STOCK

YIELD: 500g/ 2cups

TIME ESTIMATE: 30 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 3 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup, vacuum sealer
USED IN: Vegetable Risotto (see page 152), Farro with Chicken, Artichokes, and Black Olives (see variation
on page 155), Quinoa with Pistachio Pes to and Asparagus (see variation on page 155)

Making stock sous vide is the best way to capture the subtle,
nuanced flavors of the vegetables-especially if you have time to
infuse the liquid overnight in the refrigerator. When time is more
pressing, however, we pressure-cook the stock (see the variation
below), which produces a stronger flavor.
You can tailor the flavor of this stock by selecting the varieties of
vegetables you use. A stock made with sweet onions tastes different
from one based on white onions, for example. For a recipe for an
all-allium (onion-family) vegetable jus, see page 77.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Ice 500g 2 cups 100% CDPreheat a water bath to 85 •c / 185 •F.
Onion, thinly sliced 280g 23,4 cups 56% 0 Vacuum sea l the ingredients together.
Carrots, thinly sliced 200 g 23,4 cups 40% 0 Cook sous vide for 3 hours.
Celery, thinly sliced 100 g 1Y2 cups 20% 0 Plunge the sea led bag into an ice bath until it is fully ch ill ed. Optionally,
Leeks, white parts only, 100g 1Y2 cups 20% refrigerate th e sea led ingredients for another 12 hours to all ow the
thinly sli ced flavors to infuse more fu lly into the stock.
Button mushrooms, 50 g 7'o cup 10% ® Strain.
thinly sli ced ® Use the stock in warm or cold dishes.
Tomato, chopped 50g y, cup 10%
Chives, sliced lOg Y., cup 2%
Italian parsley, chopped lOg 3Tbsp 2%
Coriander seeds lg ltsp 0.2%
Black peppercorns lg ltsp 0.2%
Thym e lg 1- 2 sprigs 0.2%
Fresh bay leaf 0.5g 21eaves 0.1%
Star anise, crushed 0.5g Y2 pod 0.1%
Safety tipsfar pressure-cooking: see page 5

VARIATIONS
Pressure-Coo ked Vegetable Stock
Pressure-cooking the stock reduces the overa ll time to 1 hour, including
35 minutes of unattended cook ing. Combine all of the ingredients in a
pressure cooker, and pressure-cook at a gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi
for 35 minutes; start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.
Depressurize the cooker. Stra in the stock, and use it warm or co ld .
Brown Vegetable Stock
Preheat an oven to 220 •c ; 425 •F. Toss the vegetables in 40 g/ 40 mL /
3 Tbsp of neutral frying o il, and roast them in the preheated oven until
they turn dark brown. Comb ine the roasted vegetables with the wate r and
aromatics, and then conti nu e at step 3 or with the pressure-cooking in the
pressure-cooked variation at left.

STOCKS 13
TOASTED CORN STOCK
Y I ELD: 750 g I 3v.i cups
TIME ESTIMATE: 1 hour overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 45 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFF ICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker
USED IN : Pressure-Cooked Polenta (see page 156), Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales (see page 158)
INGREDI ENT WEIGHT VOLUME PROCEDURE
Fresh corn with husks 600-700 g 51arge ears @ Preheat the ove n to 175 oC/ 350 °F.
0 Shuck the corn, reserving the husks .
® Scatterthe husks on a baki ng sheet. Top with an inverted cooling rack.
@ Bake until go ld en brown, abo ut 15 minutes.
® Cut the kernels from t he cobs; reserve them for some other use.
Coldwater 1.2 kg 1.2 L/ 5 cups ® Place the co rncobs and toasted husks, but not the kerne ls, in a pres-
sure cooker, add the water, and pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of
1 bar / 15 psi for 30 minutes. Start ti ming w hen fu ll pressure is reached.
0 Depressurize the cooker.
® Stra in through a sieve lin ed with cheesecloth, and use warm or co ld .
Safety lipsfar pressure-cooking: see page 5

1 Preheat the oven to 175 °C/ 350 °F. This recipe uses the husks and cobs of the corn, but not the kernels. The
kerne ls are good when cooked so us vide, and you can use them to make
Corn Soup (see variation on page 76).
2 Shuck the corn, reserving the husks.

3 Scatter the corn husks on a baking sheet, and place an inverted coo ling
rack on top of them to ho ld them in place.

4 Bake the husks, tossing them occasionally until they all turn golde n
brown, 15-25 minutes.

5 While the husks are baking, cut the kernels from t he cobs. Reserve the
kernels for another use.

6 Place the corncobs, toasted husks, and water in a pressure cooker, and
pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of 1 bar / 15 psi for 30 minutes. Do
not add the corn kernels. Start timing as soon as fu ll pressure has been
reached.

7 Let the cooke r cool, or run tepid water over t he rim, to depressurize it.

8 Strain the corn stock through a sieve lined with cheesecloth. Use the
stock in warm or cold dishes.

14 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

MUSHROOM JUS
YIELD: 500 g/2 cups
TIME ESTIMATE: 50 minutes overall, including 20 minutes ofpreparation and 30 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES:
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:
keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen
easy •
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker, white miso
USED IN: Cream of Mushroom Soup (see variation on page 63), Barley with Wild Mushrooms and
Red Wine (see variation on page 154)

This recipe makes an unseasoned mushroom stock if you follow it page 142 in the main volume), and steak (see page 84).
just through step 4; continue to step 8 to make a savory yet meatless For an earthier flavor that goes well with our barley risotto, add
jus that you can use as you would meat jus. We also serve the jus as 15 g I 2 Tbsp of crumbled dry porcinis in step 1. For a more savory
a broth and use it to dress risotto (see page 152), poached eggs (see version, add 75 g I 3,4 cup of thinly sliced smoked bacon at step 1.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Crimini mushrooms, 300g 4cups 75% CD Saute in the base of a pressure cooker over high heat until the mush-
thinly sliced rooms and shallots turn go ld en, about 12 minutes .
Shallots, thinly sliced 80g '\4 cup 20%
Clarified, unsalted butter 50g 55 mL / 3Y2 Tbsp 13%
or neutral-tasting oil
see page 37
Water 400g 400 mL / 1'/3 cups 100% 0 Comb ine with the cooked mushroom mixture, and pressure-cook at a
Fino sherry 80g 80 mL / Y3 cup 20% gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 25 minutes. Start timing as soon as full
Dry white port or pressure has been reached.
80g 80 mL / Y3 cup 20%
Chardonnay ® Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.
0 Strain the stock through a fine sieve. Discard the solids.
® Measure 500 g/ 500 mL / 2 cups of the mushroom stock.
Whitemiso 28g 2Tbsp 7% ® Blend into the measured stock, and all ow to infuse for4 minutes.
Soy sauce 4g 3 mL /3)1 tsp 1% 0 Strain.
Salt to taste ® Season the jus, and serve it warm.
Sherry vinegar to taste
Safety tips for pressure-cooking: see page 5

STOCKS 15
BROWN CHICKEN JUS

YIELD: 500 g/2 cups

TIME EST IMATE: 20 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 2 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQ U IREMENTS: pressure cooker, chicken feet (optional)
USED IN: Home Jus Gras (see the next page), Shiitake Marmalade (see page 64)

This jus further fortifies an already intense stock with roasted mouthfeel. If chicken feet are unavailable, replace them with an
chicken wings and feet, which add gelatin to produce a rich equal weight of wings.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Chicken wings, chopped 450 g/ 11b 3-4 w ings 45% CD Preheat the oven to 190 •c / 375 · F.
Chicken feet (o ptional) 80 g/ 0.21b 3-4feet 8% 0 Toss together.
Ne utra l frying oi l as need ed 0 Roast the chi cken w ing pieces a nd feet until brow n, a bout 40 minutes.
see page viii

Ground chi cke n 1 kg / 2.2 1b 100% @) Pan fry over me dium heat, stirring consta ntly, until brown, abo ut
Neutra l frying o il as nee de d 15 minutes.
Brown chi cke n stock 1 kg 1 L/ 4Y., cups 100% 0 Combin e with the browned chi cke n parts a nd gro und chicken in a
see variation on page 9 pressu re cooker, and pressure-cook at a gauge press ure of 1 bar / 15 psi
Fino she rry o r dry 200g 200 mL/)/a cup 20% for1 hour. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.
w hite port ® Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.
Shallots, thinly sl iced 200 g 1:Y., cups 20% 0 Strain the jus into a pot. Disca rd the so li ds .
Thyme 1g 1- 2 sma ll sp rigs 0.1 % ® Simmer the jus over medium-high heat until it is reduced by ha lf a nd
becomes slightly syrup y, 20 -25 minutes.
Salt to taste ® Season the jus, a nd serve it warm.
Le mon jui ce to taste
Safety tips far pressure-cooking: see pageS

VARIATIONS
Brown Beef jus
Substitute ground beeffor the ground chicke n, oxta il for th e w ings and
feet, red wine for the fino she rry, a nd beef stock (see page 10) for th e
chicken stock. In step 5, in crease th e press ure-cook ing time to 2 ho urs.

Game Bird jus

Substitute bo nes a nd grou nd meat of ga me birds, such as ph easant, duck,
or grouse, for the chicken . You may want to re place the she rry o r white port
with a stronger-flavored a lcohol, such as wh iskey or re d port .

16 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

HOME JUS GRAS
YIELD: 280 g/ 11;4 cups
TIME ESTIMATE: 20minutes
STORAGE NOTES: serve the same day
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: Brown Chicken Jus (see the previous page), Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat (see page 41),
xanthan gum, liquid soy lecithin
GOES WELL WITH: Roast Chicken (see page 106), Turkey Confit (see page 110)

Many classic sauces are enriched with butter or oil, usually added at
the last second in a step called "finishing" or "mounting." The reason
for waiting until the last minute to add the fat is that the emulsion
you form when you whisk it in is unstable when hot: the fat soon
separates out. We solve that problem by adding lecithin, a heat-stable
emulsifier found in egg yolks and soybeans. The resulting sauce is
so stable that you can even make it in the afternoon, hold it at room
temperature, and then just warm it up at dinnertime.
This sauce is also special in its use of rendered chicken fat
rather than oil, butter, or cream. Especially if you use pressure-
rendered chicken fat, which has a strong roasted-chicken flavor,
you'll taste the chicken much more than in traditional versions.
For a delicious, smoky bacon taste instead, substitute bacon fat
for the chicken fat.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Brown Chicken jus 200 g 200 mL/7's cup 100% CD Blend in a pot by using an immersion blender until fully incorporated.
see the previous page 0 Bring to a simmer.
Xanthan gum 0.8g 0.4%
Pressure-Rendered BOg 95 mL /'/o cup 40% ® Warm the fat in a separate small pot over low heat, and stir in the
Chicken Fat lecithin.
see page41 0 Blend the warm fat slowly into the jus mixture until fully homogenized.
Liquid soy lecithin 1.6g 0.8% Use an immersion blender.
(NOW brand)
Salt to taste 0 Season thejusgenerously, and serve it warm .
Lemon juice to taste

1 Place the brown chicken jus in a small pot, and use an immersion
blender to blend in the xanthan gum until it is fully incorporated.
Xanthan gum is very potent, so weigh it carefully. lfthe liquid becomes
very sticky, you added too much.
Liquid soy lecithin is not the same as soy lecithin powder. The powdered
lecithin is deoiled and often used by Modernist chefs to make delicate
foams. The liquid soy lecithin called for in these recipes is available from
health-food stores. It is a powerful emulsifier and is very useful for making
vinaigrettes and warm butter sauces. Always dissolve it in an oil or fat before
combining it with other ingredients.

2 Bring the jus to a simmer.

3 Warm the fat in a second small pot over low heat, and then stir in the
lecithin.
VAR IATION: Ultrastab le Butte r Sauce
Blend 100 g of a wine reduction, stock, juice, or other flavorfu l liquid with
0.4 g of xanthan gum. Melt 120 g /V2 cup of butter in a separate pot, and stir
in 2.4 g of liquid soy lecithin . Blend the butter mixture into the thickened
4 Slowly pour the warm fat into the jus mixture while mix ing with an
immersion blender. Continue blending until the mixture is fully
liquid. Season generously with salt and lemon juice.

homogenized .

5 Season the jus generously with salt and lemon juice, and serve it warm .

STOCKS 17
HOW TO Make Full-Flavored Pan G r a v y - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Chefs often refer to the delicious brown residue that sticks to your pan a liquid to remove the fond at just the r ight time: it must be browned,
when you saute or pan fry food as "fo nd." It makes a wonderful basis but not black and bitter. Add ing a little xanthan gum th ickens the gravy;
for sauce, such as pan gravy. The trick is to deglaze the pan by add ing there is no need to boil off water, and with it many flavorful aromas .

1 Saute meat or sliced vegetables until they turn brown.
2 While the pan is still hot, add just enough liquid to deglaze it. Use
water to obtain a clear, pure flavor. Alternatively, add a flavored liquid
such as chicken, meat, or vegetable stock-or even a fruit or vegetable
juice-to produce a richer flavor. Don't add too much, or you will dilute
the flavor of the gravy.
VARIATION: Thickening with Wondra
Sauces in classical French cooking are thickened by adding roux, a cooked
mixture of butter and flour. The Nouvelle cu isine movement in the 1970s
largely rejected raux-ba sed sauces, but Modernist chefs are rediscovering
starch-thickened sauces-th is tim e using mod ern starches, such as Wondra .
After following steps 1-5 at left, dust Wondra over the flavorful liquid;
use 4-5 g of Wondra for every 100 g of liquid. Whisk to distribute the starch
even ly (do not blend, as that can produce a gummy consistency). Bring the
liquid to a simmer, and then remove it from th e heat. Continue with step 7.

3 Heat the liquid in the pan while you use a spatu la or a clean scrubber
brush to loosen the fond and dissolve the scrapings. Keep stirring
to di sso lve the fond as the liquid comes to a simmer. Simmer for
2-3 minutes. Strain the sauce into a saucepan.

4 Adjust the seasoning of the sauce, which will still be fairly thin. The
goal at this point is a potent, balanced flavor; you can thicken it later, if
needed. You can reduce the liquid slightly if the flavor is weak, but the
flavor molecules evaporate along with the water, so don't overcook it.
Once the flavor is correct, serve the gravy as is, or continue with the
next steps to refine the texture .

5 To make the gravy smoother, process it in an immersion blender,

countertop blender, orfood processor.

6 To add body to the sauce, use an immersion blender to thoroughly mix

in a little xanthan gum. For a thin sauce, use 0.1-0.15 g ofxanthan gum
for every 100 g of liquid. Use 0.2- 0.3 g per100 g for a sauce closer in
thickn ess to sa lad dressing or ketchup.

7 Finish the sauce by whisking in cream, butter, olive oil, flavored oil, or
rendered fats (including drippings), if des ired. Adjust th e season ing
once more by adding sa lt and acid, such as lemon juice or vinegar,
as needed.

18 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

REDEYE GRAVY

YIELD: 200 g/ 1 cup

TIME ESTIMATE: 45 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen after step 6; continue with step 7
when reheating
LEVEL OF D I FFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: Brown Pork Stock (see variation on page 10), smoked salt
USED IN: Shrimp and Grits (see page 157)
INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE
Sweet onion, thinly sli ced 80g ')4 cup 16% @ Saute in a sk ill et over medium heat until the onions become go ld en
Rendered pork fat or 30g 30 mL/ 2Tbsp 6% and tender, about 15 minutes.
bacon fat
seepage 41
Star an ise 0.2g 1 pod 0.04% 0 Add, reduce heat to medium-low, and continu e cooking, stirring
frequently, until the on ions turn dark amber and the star anise is
fragrant, 10-12 minutes.
Brown Pork Stock 500g 500 mL / 2 cups 100% 0 Deglaze the pan with the stock, ad d the syrup, and simm er until the
see variation on page 10 liquid thickens and reduces by two-thirds, about10 minutes.
Maple syrup (grade B 15g 1 Tbsp 3% 0 Remove the pan from the heat.
preferred)
Whole coffee beans 25g YJcup 5% ® Stir in, cover the pan, and allow to infuse for 5 minutes.
(Fre nch roast)
® Strain the gravy into a small pot. Discard the so lids.
0 Warm the gravy over low heat.
Unsa lted butter, cubed 35g 2y, Tbsp 7% ® Whisk into the warm gravy to thicken it. Do not boil.
Smoked sa lt to taste ® Season the gravy, and serve it warm .

SAUCES 19
RED WINE GLAZE

YIELD: 100 g/ J,3 cup

TIME ESTIMATE: 4 hours overall, including 2 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker, beef knucklebones
USED IN: Braised Short Ribs (see page 99)
INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE
Lean ground beef 1.3 kg / 2.81b 100% @ Fry the meat in a large skillet over high heat until it turns dark brown,
Neutral frying oil 75g 80 mL /Yl cup 6% about 8 minutes. Do not overcrowd the pan; work in batches.
see page viii ® Drain the browned meat in a colander placed over a bowl. Measure
40 g/ 40 mL / 14 cup ofthe drained oil. Reserve the beef for use in step 6.
Sweet onion, thinly sli ced 500g 514 cups 40% ® Combine with the reserved oil in the base of a pressure cooker, and
Carrots, thinly sliced 500g 7 cups 40% saute uncovered over medium heat, stirring often, until the vegetab les
Leeks, thinly sliced become comp lete ly soft and brown, 30-35 minutes.
250g 3',4 cups 20%
Garli c, thinly sliced 25g y, cup 2%
Tomato paste 50g 3Tbsp 4% @ Stir into the vegetable mixture, and cook, stirring often, until brown,
aboutlO minutes.
Redwine 750g 750 mL/ 1 bottle 60% ® Pour in, and cook over high heat, stirring often, until the wine reduces
to a syrup, 10-12 minutes.

Beef knucklebones 1.3 kg / 2.81b 100% ® Add to the pressure cooker, and stir in the reserved beef until combined.
Water 1 kg 1 L/ 414 cups 80% 0 Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 2 hours. Start timing
Italian parsley, bruised 5g 5 medium sprigs 0.4% as soo n as full pressure has been reached.
Thyme 3g 3-4 sprigs 0.2% ® Let the cooke r cool, or run tepid water overt he rim, to d epressurize it.
Fresh bay leaves 0.6g 3 1eaves 0.04% ® Strain the broth into a large pot through a fine sieve lin ed with cheese-
Black peppercorns cloth . Discard the solids.
0.5g 10-12 peppercorns 0.03%
@ Cook the broth over high heat, skimming off the fat frequently, until
reduced to a syrupy glaze, 45 - 60 minutes.
Balsamic vinegar to taste @ Season the glaze, and serve it warm.
Dark soy sauce to taste
Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 5

20 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

HOW TO Make Gels and Fluid Gels - -- -- - - -- - - -- - - - - - - - - - - -

Gels are ha rdl y new to cook ing: coo ked eggs are gels; so are cheeses,
custards, and yogurts. But modern gelling agents have opened up a
fantastic range of new culinary applications . You can use them to add
body to a broth, mold a sauce into an attractive shape, or even solidify
a liquid such as onion milk into a block, and then shear it back into a
fluid (see below).
The basic process is the same in each case . First, you d ispense
the gelling age nt even ly throughout the liquid. Sometimes, you must
heat the mi xture to activate the gel li ng agent. The molecules ofthe
agent link up to form a mesh that traps water and other molecules
li ke fish in a net. As the mesh tightens, the liquid sets into a semisolid ge l.
You can puree ce rtain gels after they have set to make a sauce
that is th ick on a spoon but thins to a pleasant texture as you eat it.
Flu id gels, as these sauces are called, often have a cream ier mouthfeel
than you can get from a comparab le sauce thickened w ith starch or
xa nthan gum. Agar is the most useful gelling agent for making fluid ge ls,
but it does require heat to activate-not idea l if you are making a raw
vegetab le sauce or a co ld soup such as gazpac ho. Agar is derived from
seaweed and has been used for centuries in Asian cook ing.

1 Use an accurate gram scale (see page 7

in the main vo lume) to measure the right
amount of agar. Use 0.25 g of agar for every
100 g of liquid when making a th in broth;
0.4- 0 .5 g per 100 g for a mod erately thick
sauce; or 0.9-1.1 g per100 g for a thickness
like that of a puree.
3 Bring the mixture to a boil, a nd stir until
the powder into the liquid in a co untertop
b lender, and then transfer the mixture to
a pan.
the agar dissolves comp lete ly.
Quick-set fluid gel: Place the hot mixture in a
bowl, set the bowl in a n ice-water bath, and then
use an immersion blender to blend the mixture
as it coo ls to be low 30 •c j 86 •f and sets into a
fluid ge l.
VARIATION: Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel
Vacuum sea l 150 g / 10 Tbsp of egg yolks (a bout

2 Place the liquid in a saucepan-a ny co ld,

flavorful liquid works, includ ing stock, pan
4 To make a semisol id gel, pour the mixture
into a mold or bowl, and allow it to coo l un-
ti l it sets. To make a fluid gel, a ll ow the ge l to
juices, or dissolved fond-and sprinkle the set, a nd then puree it in a blender until it is
aga r into the liquid while blending with smooth .
an immersion blender. Alternative ly, mix
10 yo lks), and then cook them so us vide in a
80 •c j 176 • F bath for 35 minutes. Blend the
cooked yolks with 150 g / 150 mL/o/s cup of
flavored cream or stock, and season to taste .
Add lemon juice or more liquid if needed to
thin t he sauce.

ONION FLUID GEL

YIELD: 500 g/2 cups

TIME ESTIMATE: 2 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 10 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days when refrigerated either before or after pureeing in step 10
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup, agar powder

This recipe is adapted from Heston Blumenthal's update of the flavor and much greater stability. The sauce won't separate, even
classic Escoffier sauce soubise, a Bechamel sauce flavored with onion when reheating it after several days in the refrigerator. Unlike gela-
puree. Making the sauce as a fluid gel (see above) results in a cleaner tin, agar gels can tolerate moderate heat (up to 85 ·c I 185 •F).

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Sweet on ion, thinly sliced 635g 6 cups 127% @ Pre heat a water bath to 88 •c / 190 •f.
Shallots, thinly sliced 155g lo/s cups 31% 0 Sweat the on ions and sha ll ots in oil in a large ski ll et over low heat until
Neutral -tasting oil 100 g 110 mL / Y2 cup 20% translucent and dry, but not brown, 20-30 minutes.
Whole milk 500g 520 mL/ 2Ys cups 100% ® Combine with the onions in a large (4 L/ 1 gal) zip-top bag, remove as
much air as possible from the bag (see page 6), and sea l it.
0 Cooksousvid efor1 hour.
® Sieve, pressing the onions firmly to extract as much milk as possible.
0 Measure 500 g ofthe onion milk, and chill it.
Agar powder 3.5g 0.7% 0 Sprinkle over the co ld onion milk, and then whisk or use an immersion
blender to blend the agar completely.
® Boil until fully dissolved and hydrated, 1-2 minutes.
® Pour into a tray or bowl, and chill until comp letely set, 15-20 minutes.
@) Puree until smooth and fluid.
Salt to taste @ Season, and serve warm or cold.

To make the onion milk on the stove top rather than sous vide, simmer the Quick-set method: Afte r step 8, place the hot, hydrated mixture in a tall con-
cooked onions and sha ll ots with the milk over low heat for10 minutes. tainer, and set it in an ice-water bath. Use an immersion blender to puree the
You can grind flaked agar in a coffee grinder to make agar powder. ge l as it coo ls. Stop blending when the fluid gel is cold . Season and serve.

SAUCES 21
PISTACHIO PESTO

YIELD: 350 g / 15/s cups

TIME ESTIMATE: H4 hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 1 hour unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 3 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: roasted pistachio oil, xanthan gum (optional)
USED IN: Quinoa with Pistachio Pes to and Asparagus (see variation on page 155), Genovese Pizza (see
variation on page 143), Pesta Chicken Thighs (see variation on page 118), Barley Noodles (see
variation on page 123), Pistachio Clam Chowder (see variation on page 134), Goat Cheese on
Baguette with Tomato Confit and Basil (see variation on page 150)

Pes to, which simply means paste in Italian, is most often associated The function of the xanthan gum, which is optional, is to thicken
with the Genovese version that combines pine nuts, basil, Parmesan, natural juices that otherwise tend to separate from the greens. Toss
and olive oil. But this reinterpretation that replaces pine nuts with the pesto with pasta, mix it into a warm potato salad, slather it over
pistachios has become one of our favorites . salmon before baking, or serve it as a dip for crusty grilled bread.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Basil leaves 40g 2Y.. cups 80% CD Bring a pot of water to a boil. Arrange an ice-water bath alongside.
Chives 35g 1 cup 70% 0 Combine, and blanch in the boiling water until just cooked, abo ut
Cilantro leaves 35 g 2 cups 70% 1 minute. Use a skimmer or slotted spoon to lift the greens out, a nd
Scallion, green parts only, 35 g y, cup plunge th e m imm ediate ly into the ice bath.
70%
cut into 5 cm / 2 in pieces ® Dra in the greens, wrap them in cheesecloth, and squeeze to remove
Baby spinach excess moisture.
15g 1 cup 30%

Garlic cloves 8g 2-3 cloves 16% @) Boil until tender, a bout 2 minutes.
Pa rmigiano- Reggiano, 50g :Y.. cup 100% ® Combine with the blanched greens and garlic in a food processor,
finely grated and puree .
Pistachios, toasted 50g 3/a cup 100%
Extra-virgin olive oil 95g 110 mL /Y2 cup 190% ® Add to the puree g rad uall y while pro cess ing to form a paste.
Roasted pistachio oil 20 g 20 mL / 1Y2 Tbsp 40%
(or other nut oil)
Lemon juice lOg 10 mL / 2 tsp 20%
Salt to taste 0 Season the pes to.
Xanthan gum (Bob's Red as needed ® If not using xanthan gum, refrigerate the pes to for1 hour. Otherwise,
Mill brand), optional weigh the pes to, calcu late 0.2% of the weight, and measure that amount
ofxanthan g um . For exa mpl e, if th e pesto weighs 350 g, measure 0.7 g
ofxanthan gum.
® Whisk the xanthan gum into the pesto until full y incorporated .

When blanching the greens in step 2, plunge them into ice Wrap all the blanched greens together in cheesecloth When the oils and lemon juice are fully incorporated, the
water immediately after taking them out of the pot. They when squeezing out their juices. pesto takes on the consistency of a paste. For a crunchier
should be barely cooked through. pes to, pulse it to a coarse texture.

22 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

VARIATIONS
Follow the steps for Pistachio Pesto on the previous page, but substitute the greens indicated
below for the greens in steps 1- 3, the cheese and nuts indicated for the Parmigiano-Reggiano
and pistachios in step 5, and the oils indi cated for the o li ve and pistachio oils in step 6.

Spinach Pesto Green Onion and Sorrel Pesto

Spinach 125g 6)4 cups Scallions, green parts 60 g 1 cup
Ita lian parsley leaves 15g lY2 cups only
Aged Gouda cheese, 50 g 1 cup Sorrel (do not blanch) 50g 2 Y' cups
grated Piave Vecchio cheese, 50g 1 cup
Roasted a lmonds 50 g Y., cup grated
Almond oil 20g 25 ml / Macadamia nuts 50g :Y. cup
,y, Tbsp Extra-virgin olive oil 90g 100 ml/
Extra-virgin olive oil 90g 100 ml / y, cup
y, cup

Roasted Red Pepper Pesto Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pesto

Roasted piquillo peppers 120g y, cup Scallions 60g 1 cup
Mint leaves lOg 3,4cup Chervil leaves 35 g 3 cups
Gorgonzola cheese 50g y, cup Thyme (do not blanch) 5g 2Tbsp
Roasted cashew nuts 50g 3/a cup Aged goat cheese, 50g o/a cup
Extra-virgin olive oil 90g 100 ml / crumbled
Y, cup Hazelnuts 50 g :Ya cup
Haze lnut oil 20g 20 ml /
,y, Tbsp
Extra-virgin olive oil 90g 100 ml /
y, cup

Cilantro Pesto Sauce Verte

Cilantro leaves 120g 9 cups Ita lia n parsley leaves 50 g 4cups
Spinach 20 g 1 cup Mint leaves 50g 3 cups
Parmesan cheese, grated SOg lY., cups Chives 20 g o/a cup
Toasted pumpkin seeds 50g YJ cup Basil leaves 20 g 2 cups
Extra-virgin olive oil 90g 100 ml/ Chervil leaves 15g l Ya cups
y, cup Dijon mustard lOg 1 Tbsp
Lime juice to taste Walnuts, finely chopped 50 g Y2 cup
White wine vinegar lOg 2 tsp
Extra-virgin olive oil 90g 100 ml /
y, cup

SAUC ES 23
PRESSURE-COOKED DRIPPINGS

YIELD: 200g/ 1 cup

TIME ESTIMATE : 1J4 hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 1 hour unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps refrigerated for 5 days or up to 6 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS : pressure cooker, three 500 mL/ 16 oz canning jars, xanthan gum

Why scrape the drippings from the pan to make gravy? Just pressure- fresh herbs. To make a thinner jus, omit the xanthan gum. You can
cook ground chicken to extract the delicious juices without scorch- substitute a few cubes of cold butter for the xanthan gum. The emul-
ing or scraping. If you prefer a brighter or more complex flavor to sion can be further stabilized by adding 1-2 g of liquid soy lecithin
the gravy, add some good vinegar or citrus juice, ground spices, and (see page 17).

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Chicken wings, chopped 450 g/ 11b 3- 4wings 100% 0 Mix thorough ly.
Boneless, sk inl ess chicken 450 g / 11b from 3 thighs 100% 0 Divide even ly into three 500 mL / 16 oz cann ing jars. Tighten the lids
thighs, ground fully, and then unscrew them one-quarter turn .
Soy sauce 9g 8 mL / 1Y2 tsp 2% ® Place the filled jars on a rack or trivet in the base of a pressure cooker,
Honey 9g 1:Y.. tsp 2% and add 2.5 cm / 1 in of water.
@ Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for 1 hour. Start timing
as soon as full pressure has been reached.
® Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.
Let the jar contents cool sl ightly before opening.
0 Strain, reserving the juices and fat . Discard the solids.
Xanthan gum as needed 0 Weigh the reserved drippings, and measure the xanthan gum equal to
{Bob's Red Mill brand) 0.15% of the weight. For example, ifthe drippings weigh 200 g, measure
0.3 g of xanthan gum.
® Blend the xanthan gum into the warm drippings until thickened.
Salt as needed ® Season the gravy, and serve it warm.
Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 5

VARIATION: Caramelized Onion Gravy

To make a thicker gravy without adding more starch or fat, blend in
30 g/ 2 Tbsp of Pressure-Caramelized Onions {see page 45) and 10 g/
2Y2 tsp of Pressure-Cooked Garlic Con fit {see page 44) before step 9.

24 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

MODERNIST MAYONNAISE

YIELD: 450 g/ 21,4 cups

TIME ESTIMATE: 45 minutes overall, including 10 minutes ofpreparation and 35 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup
USED IN: Pork Belly B.L. T. (see page 102), Sweet Onion Slaw (see page 69), Lobster Roll
(see page 130)

Mayonnaise is a classic emulsion of oil, mustard, and a touch of
acid held together by egg yolk acting as an emulsifier. It has literally
hundreds of uses in the kitchen. This recipe lightly cooks the yolks,
which has two benefits. First, it eliminates any food safety concerns
about using raw eggs; these yolks are pasteurized. Second, the heat
amplifies the emulsifying power of the yolks, so the mayonnaise is
much more stable. If you're pressed for time, however, you can use
raw egg yolks and skip steps 1- 3.
This basic recipe supports a huge range of variations; we've
included just a few below. As you add more oil, the mayonnaise
will get stiffer; use less oil for a thinner sauce. Try substituting
extra-virgin olive oil or other seed or nut oils for some or all of the
neutral-tasting oil. You can swap out the lemon juice in favor of
other acidic fruit juices (such as lime, blood orange, grapefruit, or
passion fruit). Red wine vinegar works in place of white. Even the
water can be replaced by stock or various kinds of juice.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Egg yolks, blended 75 g 5- 6 yolks 100% CD Preheat a water bath to 67 •c / 153 • f .
® Place the blended yolks in a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible
from the bag by using the water-displacement method (see page 6),
and seal it.
® Cook sous vide for 35 minutes.
Water 45g 45 mL / 3 Tbsp 60% 0 Mix, and then whisk together with the cooked egg yolks until smooth.
Dijon mustard 25g 1Y2 Tbsp 33%
Neutral-tasting oil or 300g 320 mL / l '/3 cups 400% ® Blend gradua ll y into the egg yo lk mixture until full y emulsified.
any flavorful oil
Lemon juice 18g 20 mL/ l'/2 Tbsp 24% ® Add as needed to season the sauce.
White wine vinegar lOg 10 mL / 2'/2 tsp 13% 0 Usecold.
Salt to taste

VARIATIONS

Aioli Bacon Mayonnaise Rouille Tartar Sauce

In step 5, rep lace 150 g / 160 mL /
'/3 cup of the oil with the oil from
Pressure-Cooked Garlic Confit
(see page 44), and blend in
50 g / 3 Tbsp of garlic from that
recipe.
In step 5, replace the oil with ren- Make the Aioli variation, but In step 6, stir in 35 g/ 3'/2 Tbsp of
dered bacon fat (see page 41), at step 6 stir in 59 g/'/2 cup of minced gherkins and 15 g/ 4 Tbsp
and blend in 0.7 gofxanthan gum . pi menton dulce (smoked, sweet of chopped Italian parsley.
In step 6, fold in 65 g/'/2cup of paprika) and 0.5 g/Y.. tsp of
crumbled, crispy bacon as you cayenne pepper (or more to taste).
season the sauce. This mayonnaise
solidifies when chi ll ed. Temper it at
room temperature for 5-10 minutes
before serving.

SAUCES 25
MUGHAL CURRY SAUCE
YIELD: 700 g/ 21fz cups
TIME ESTIMATE: 13 hours overall, including 1 hour of preparation and 12 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: white poppy seeds,jresh turmeric, ghee (see page 37)
USED IN: Lamb Curry (see page 104)

The Mughal Empire, which dominated northern India in the
16th and 17th centuries, built lasting monuments such as the
Taj Mahal, but it also left a monumental culinary legacy. Mughal
cuisine inspired this recipe, which is a versatile template that
you can easily extend (see two variations below).
Although this recipe makes more nut paste than you need, the
paste keeps well when frozen . Go ahead and make extra sauce;
it is excellent with lamb, chicken, or beef, and tastes even better
the following day. If fresh turmeric is unavailable, substitute
0.5 g / 1/2 tsp of powdered turmeric.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Whole blanched almonds 50 g y, cup 25% CD Cover with water, and soak for 12 hours in the refrigerator.
Raw cashews 50 g y, cup 25% 0 Strain through a fine sieve, and transfer the nuts and seeds to a blender.
White poppy seeds 5g ltsp 2.5%
Water 240g 240 mL / 1 cup 120% ® Add to the blender, puree to form a smooth paste, and measure
240 g / 1 cup of paste for use in step 8.
Shallots, thinly sliced 200g 2 cups 100% 0 Saute in a large pot over medium-low heat until shallots become tender
Ghee (clarified, 40 g 3Tbsp 20% and golden, a bout 10 minutes.
unsalted butter)
see page 37
Salt 4g ltsp 2%
Tomato, peeled, seeded, 120g Y, cup 60% ® Add to the shallots, and cook until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes.
and diced
see page46
MCCurry Powder 7.5g 1Y2 Tbsp 3.8% ® Stir into the shal lot-tomato mixture, and saute over low heat for about
see page 52 5 minutes.
Garlic, grated 6g y, Tbsp 3% 0 Remove the bay leaf, and discard it.
Ginger, grated 6g y, Tbsp 3%
Green Thai chili, minced 5g y, Tbsp 2.5%
Fresh turmeric, peeled 4g y, Tbsp 2%
and grated
Fresh bay leaf 11eaf
Water 240g 240 mL/ 1 cup 120% ® Stir into the mixture .
Blended nut-seed paste, 240g 1 cup 120% ® Blend to a coarse puree.
from above @ Cover, and simmer over low heat for a bout 25 minutes, stirring
Raisins, minced 25g Y., cup 13% occasionally.
Plain yogurt 15g 1 Tbsp 8% @ Remove the pot from the heat, and stir the yogurt and nutmeg into the
Nutmeg, grated 0.5g y, tsp 0.3% sauce.
Fresh lime juice to taste @ Seaso n the sauce, and serve it warm.
Salt to taste

To soften the nuts and seeds more quick ly than an overnight soak, pressure-
cook them with enough water to cover at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for
45 minutes .
VARIATIONS
Kerala Curry Sa uce
Skip steps 1-3. 1n step 4, add 3 g / 1 tsp of black mustard seeds and 2 g
of curry leaves (about 91eaves) while sauteing the shal lots . In step 9,
substitute 240 g / 1 cup of coconut mi lk for the nut-seed paste.

Musl im Curry Sauce

Skip steps 1-3. In step 9, substitute 240 g/26 0 mL /lYs cups of heavy cream
for the nut-seed puree. In step 11, add a pinch of saffron threads. Garnish
th e finished sauce with rose petals and roasted pistachios.

26 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

1 Cover the almo nds, cas hews, and poppy seeds with water, a nd soa k
them in the refrigeratorfor12 hours. If white poppy seeds are unavail- 7 Remove a nd di scard the bay leaf.

ab le, omit them.

8 Stir additional water, the reserved nut-seed paste, and the minced
raisins into the mixture.

2 Stra in the soaked nuts and seeds through a fine sieve. Discard the soak-
ing wate r, and place the nuts a nd seeds in a bl end e r.
9 Blend the mixture to a coarse puree. An immers ion ble nd e r wo rks we ll.

3 Add fresh water to the blender, and puree the mixture until a smooth
paste forms. If the paste seems grainy, pass it through a fine sieve.
1o Cove r the pot, and simmer the sauce over very low heat for about
25 minutes, stirring frequently. The sauce wi ll thicken.
Measure 240 g / 1 cup of the paste, and set it aside for use in step 8.

4 Sa ute the shallots with the ghee a nd salt in a large pot over med ium-
low heat until the sha llots turn go ld e n a nd tender, aboutlO minutes.
11 Remove the pot from the heat, and stir the yogu rt a nd grated
nutmeg into the sauce.

5 Add the diced tomato to the shallots, and continue cooking until the
mixture thickens slightly, abo ut 5 minu tes.
12 Season the sauce with plenty of fresh lime juice and sa lt, and serve
it warm.

6 Stir the curry powder, ga rli c, ginger, chili, turmeric, and bay leaf into
the sha llot-tomato mixture, redu ce the heat to low, a nd coo k for about
5 minutes more.

MC SPECIAL SAUCE
YIELD: 615 g/21;2 cups
TIME ESTIMATE: 30 minutes overall
STORAG E NOTES : keeps for 3 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS: spicy cucumber pickles
USED IN: Modernist Cheeseburger (see page 91)

In 1968, McDonald's rolled out a new double cheeseburger with
three buns, garnished with a "special sauce." They called it the Big
Mac, and it was an instant hit worldwide, attaining such ubiquity
that The Economist magazine to this day uses the price of a Big Mac
as an indicator of what currencies are worth around the globe.
One day when we were working on a pork loin sauce for Modern-
ist Cuisine, we tasted the latest batch in the resea rch kitchen, and our
eyes lit up with recognition: it was McDonald's special sauce! Not
exactly, of course. Ours is fancier and less sweet, alth ough the exact
flavor depends on your choice of musta rd and pickles.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Leeks, minced 220 g 4cups 100% 0 Sweat in a pan over medi um -low heat, stirring often, until very te nd e r,
Shallots, minced 95g 3,4 cup 43% a bout1 5 minutes.
Ne utral-tasting oi l 70g 75 mL/YJ cup 32%
Heavy cream 220g 240 mL / 1 cup 100% 0 Add, increase heat to med ium-high, and simm er, stirring often, until
Dry ve rmouth 200 g 200 mL/ Vs cup 91% th icke ned, 8 -10 minutes.
(Noilly Prat brand)
Sp icy cucumber pickles, 40g 4 Tbsp 18% ® Fold in.
minced (Baumgardner
bra nd)
Dijon mu sta rd 20g 4tsp 9%
Pickle juice, from to taste 0 Season the sauce generously, and serve it coo l.
sp icy pickl es
Sa lt to taste

SAUCES 27
SOUS VIDE HOLLANDAISE

YIELD: 265 g /5 cups offoam

TIME ESTIMATE: 45 minutes overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 30 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve within 2 hours
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup, 1 L whipping siphon, two cartridges of nitrous oxide, malic acid or
citric acid (optional)

Hollandaise is traditionally a tricky, labor-intensive sauce; it is all too alone yield s a reliably delicious sauce that can be served directly
easy to overheat the eggs and curdle the sauce. That risk is removed after step 9 of the recipe below. But for an extra-light hollandaise,
when you cook it so us vide instead of on the stove. Just this change continue with the last t wo steps.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Dry w hite wine 100g 100mL/:Y. cup 133% CD Preheat a water bath to 65 ' C/ 149 ' F.
Shallots, minced 50 g :Y. cup 67% 0 Comb in e in a pot.
W hite wine vinegar 35 g 40 mL/ 3Tbsp 47% ® Simmer until the liquid becomes syrupy, about 8 minutes.
0 Stra in, discarding the so lids, a nd measure 20 g / 20 mL/ 4 tsp of the wine
reduction for use in the next step.
Egg yolks 75g 5-6 yo lks 100% ® Blend together with the wine reduction.
Stock or water 20g 20 mL/ 4 tsp 27% @ Place in a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possib le from the bag by
see pages 9-15 using the water-disp lacement method (see page 6), and sea l it.
0 Cook sous vide for 30 minu tes.
Unsa lted butter, me lted 225 g 240 mL/ 1 cup 300% ® Blend into the egg yo lk mixture until fully em ulsifi ed.
Salt 4g 1 tsp 5% ® Season t he sauce, and se rve it warm, or conti nue th ro ugh step 11 to
Mal ic acid or c itric acid 1g 1% aerate it.
(o r fresh lemon juice @) Pour the sauce into a 1 Lsiph on. Charge the siphon with two ca rtridges
to taste) of nitrous oxide, a nd shake it vigorously.
@ Dispense to se rve immediately, o r keep warm in the siph on in a
55 ' C/ 131 ' Fwater bath for up to ,y, ho urs.

1 Preheat a water bath to 65 ' C/ 149 ' F.

7 Cook t he mixture sous vide for 30 minutes .

2 Combine the white wine, shallots, a nd vinegar in a pot.

8 Blend the melted butter grad ual ly into the egg yolk mixture until fully
e mulsifi ed. Use an imm ersio n blender in a bowl, or a co unte rtop
blende r for larger quantities.
3 Simmer until the liquid is a lm ost comp lete ly reduced an d syrupy,
about 8 minutes .

9 Season the sauce with salt and ma lic acid, citric acid, or lemo n juice to
taste. The sauce, which sho uld now be similar to a warm mayonnaise,
4 Strain the wine reduction, and measure 20 g/20 mL/ 4 tsp of the liquid
for use in the next step. Discard th e so lids. can be served as is.

5 Blend th e egg yo lks and stock into the wine reduction thoroughly by
using an immers ion blender.
10 Pour the mixture into a 1 Lsiphon . Charge the siphon with two
cartridges of nitro us oxide, and shake it vigo ro usly.

6 Place the mixture in a zip-top bag. Use the water-displacement method

(see page 6) to remove as much air as possible from the bag, a nd
11 Serve the sauce immed iate ly by dispe nsing it from the siphon, or
keep it wa rm in the siphon in a 55 ' C/ 131' F water bath for up to
seal it. 1Y2 hours .

28 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

VARIATIONS If you choose to use stock rather than water, co nsid er the ingredient for
Crustacean Hollandai se which the holl andaise is being prepared: use fi sh stock for a sauce that you
Replace the unsalted butter in step 8 w ith Pressure-Cooked Crustacean w ill se rve with fish, poultry stock for poultry, and so on. You can simila rl y
Butter (see page 40), and se rve the sauce w ith poached lobster (see ta il or the sauce by usi ng other kinds of vinegars or wines in place of th e
page 130). wh ite win e vinegar. Red wine and sherry vinegar pair we ll w ith grill ed
hanger steak, for example.
Garlic Holl a nd a ise
Ble nd 40 g of ga rli c into the yo lks afte r step 7, and at step 8 replace half To produce a lighter foam, set th e water bath to 63 oc / 145 °F in step 1;
of the melted butter with oil from Pressure-Cooked Garlic Co n fit (see a 67 °C/ 153 °F bath will yield a denser foam.
page 44).

Spicy Hollandaise
In step 8, replace 20 g / 20 ml / 1Y, Tbsp of the melted butter with
toasted-sesame oil, a nd wh isk in 50 g! Y.. cup of Korean Wing Sauce
(see page 11 6). Strain the sauce, a nd se rve it with grill ed vegetab les.

SAUCES 29
PRESSURE-CARAMELIZED KETCHUP

YIELD: 330 g/ 1 cup

TIME ESTIMATE: 35 minutes overall, including 10 minutes ofpreparation and 25 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker, malic acid (optional), agave syrup (optional)
USED IN: Modernist Cheeseburger (see page 91)

We exploit a little basic chemistry in this recipe to make a ketchup
having a deep color and subtle flavor profile that one can get only by
caramelizing the sugars in the tomato sauce. That isn't easy to do in
an open pan because the sauce never gets much hotter than the boil-
ing point of water. But the addition of a little baking soda neutralizes
the natural acidity of the tomatoes and even makes the sauce slightly
alkaline, which allows caramelization to occur at temperatures that
a pressure cooker can generate. As with our caramelized vegetable
soups and purees (see page 76), the resulting ketchup delivers a
wonderful combination of fresh and cooked flavors.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Tomato paste lOOg 3/s cup 100% CD Whisk together in the base of a pressure cooker.
Water 100g 100 mL /'/s cup 100% ® Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 25 minutes. Start
Baking soda 3g :Y.. tsp 3% timing when fu ll pressure is reached.
® Depressuri ze the cooker, and stir the sauce.
Red wine vinegar 60g 70 mL/ 5 Tbsp 60% 0 Stir into the tomato sauce.
Agave syrup or sugar 40 g 30 mL / 2 Tbsp 40%
Maple syrup (grade B 30 g 25 mL / lY2 Tbsp 30%
preferred)
Mustard powder lOg 3 tsp 10% ® Mix together until evenly combined, sieving if necessary, and then whisk
Sweet paprika 9g 3 tsp 9% into the sauce.
Onion powder 6g 1Y2tsp 6%
Malic acid (optional) 3g 3%
Salt to taste @ Season the ketchup, and serve it cool.
Red wine vinegar to taste
Saf ety tipsf or pressure-cooking: see page 5

1 Whisk together the tomato paste, water, and baking soda in the base
of a pressure cooker. The mixture will become slightly foamy as the 4 Stir the vinegar and syrups into the tomato sauce.

baking soda reacts with the acid in the tomato paste.

5 Mix the sp ices and, optional ly, the malic acid until they are evenly
combined-sieve the mixture, if necessary-an d then whisk them

2 Pressure-cook the tomato paste mixture at a gauge pressure of

1 bar / 15 psi for 25 minutes. Start timing as soon as full pressure
into the sauce. To thicken the ketchup slightly and prevent it from
"weeping," add 0.5 g ofxanthan gum to the spice mixture.
has been reached.

3 Let the cooker coo l, or run tep id water over the rim, to depressurize it. 6 Season the ketchup ge nero usly with salt and add iti ona l vinega r to
taste . Rest the ketchup for a few hours before serving to al low the
Stir the tomato paste, which should be a dark, brick- red co lor. raw taste of the spices to mellow.

VARIATION: Barbecue Ketchup

At step 4, substitute 40 g / )4 cup of brown sugar for the agave syrup, and
add 20 g/ 25 mL / 5 tsp of bourbon, 1 g/Ys tsp of liquid smoke (Lazy Kettle
brand), and 0.1 g / pinch of cayenne pepper.

30 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

SALSA VERDE

YIELD: 490 g/ 2 cups

TIME ESTIMATE: 30 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPE C IAL REQUIREMENTS: open flame (gas stove burner, barbecue grill, or blowtorch)
GOES WELL WITH: Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales (see page 158)
INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE
Tomatillos, with husks 415 g 5- 6 me dium 100% CD Char each tomatillo over an open flame, a gas stove burne r, or by using
a blowtorch until the skin blisters and blackens.
0 Rub off the charred husks and skin with a clean, dry dish towel.
® Stem and quarter the tomatillos.
Ye llow onion, diced 215g 2y, cups 52% 0 Combine with the tomatillos in a pot, and cook over medium heat until
Neutral-tasting oil 35g 40 mL / 2Y, Tbsp 8% tender and sauce-like, about 15 minutes .
Jalapeno, chopped 25g 1 large pepper 6% ® Lightly blend by using an immersion blender to break up any large
pieces.
Salt to taste
® Serve warm or cold.
Safety tipsf ar blawtarching: see page 2

PRESSURE-CARAMELIZED PEANUT SAUCE

YIELD : 760 g/ 3~ cups

TIME ESTIMATE: 1 hour overall, including 20 minutes ofpreparation and 40 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker, galangal, palm sugar
USED IN: Chicken Breast Satay (see variation on page 118), Rice Noodles (see variation on page 123)

For excellent-tasting peanut sauce, start with the freshest, most to ginger but has a more robust, peppery taste; it is sold at Asian
aromatic roasted peanuts you can find . Fresh galangal is similar markets (fresh ginger may be substituted).

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Unsweetened coconut 400g 410 mL / 1 ~ cups 333% CD Combin e in a pressure cooker.
cream (canned) 0 Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 40 minutes .
Skinless, roasted, 120g rs cup 100% Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.
unsalted peanuts ® Depressurize the cooker quickly by running tepid water over the rim.
Shallots, sliced 70 g 3,4 cup 58% 0 Puree the sauce in a blender until smooth.
Water 50g 50 mL / Y., cup 42%
Galangal, peeled and 35g 3- 4 coins 29%
sliced into coins
Peanut oil 20 g 20 mL / 1Y, Tbsp 17%
Baking soda 3.2g y, tsp 2.7%
Asian fish sauce 40g 35 mL/ 2Tbsp 33% ® Season the sauce, and serve it warm.
Palm sugar, grated 20 g 3 Tbsp 17%
Salt 5g 1Y' tsp 4%
Safety tipsfor pressure·caaking: see page 5

SA UCES 31
MARINARA
YIELD: 1 kg/ 4cups
TIME ESTIMATE: 1 hour overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 45 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES : keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker
USED IN: Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan (see page 160), Whole Wheat Noodles (see variation on
page 123)

Marinara is a simple, flavorful tomato sauce. By combining the We consider marinara a starting point that has endless potential
ingredients in a pressure cooker, there is even less fuss than usual. for customization. For classic pasta sauce, stir in fresh basil and chili
We like the added sweetness of onions and carrots, but our pizza flake s, or olives and anchovy fillets.
sauce variation, below, might appease the tomato purists.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Yellow onion, large dice 260g 2 cups 33% CD Mince in a food processor.
Carrots, medium dice 160g 1 cup 20%
Garlic 18 g 5-6 cloves 2.3%
Olive oil 20g 20 mL/ lY2 Tbsp 2.5% ® Add to th e base of a pressure cooker, an d saute th e minced vegetables
over med ium heat until th e onions turn transluce nt, abo ut 4 minutes .
Canned, crushed 794 g 11arge can 100% ® Stir into the sau teed vegetab les.
tomatoes (San Marzano @ Pressure-cookat aga uge pressure of1 bar/ 15 psi for45 minutes. Start
or othe r high-quality timing when full pressure is reached .
va riety)
® Depressurize th e cooker.
Extra-virgin ol ive o il to taste @ Season the sauce to taste.
Salt to taste 0 Servewarm.
Safety tips jar pressure-cooking: see page 5

1 Mince the onions, carrots, and ga rli c in a food processor. VARIATIONS

2 Add the ol ive oil to the base of a pressure cooke r, and saute the minced
vegetab les ove r med ium heat until th e on ions become translucent,
about 4 minutes .
3 Stir the tomatoes into the sauteed vegetab les.
Pineapple Marinara
In step 1, add 400 g/ 2:Y. cups of di ced, fresh pineapple an d 40 g /Y2 cup of
chopp ed prosci utto. In step 3, redu ce the quantity of cru shed tomatoes to
400 g / y, large can.
Bolognese
Brown 450 g / 11b of ground pork in the base of a pressu re cooker, and th en
proceed with step 1. In step 2, add 8 g/ 1 Tbsp of porcini powder. In ste p 6,
stir in 60 g / 65 mL / 4Y2 Tbsp of heavy cream before seaso ning the sauce.

4 Pressure-cook the vegeta bles at a gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for
45 minutes. Start timing as soon as fu ll pressure has been reached . Tomato Sofrito
In step 1, omit the ca rrots, reduce the quantity of diced onion to 115 g /
1 cup, and add 63 g /o/s cup of chopped piquillo peppers. In step 3, add

5 Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it. 0.2 g / Ys tsp of saffron threads with the crushed tomatoes.

6 Season the sauce to taste with o live o il and plenty of sa lt.
7 Serve the sauce warm.
Pizza Sauce
Skip steps 1 and 2. Fry 50 g/ Y.. cup of chopped ga rli c in 100 g / 110 mL /
y, cup of o live oi l until th e garli c turns go ld en brown, about 5 minutes.
Co ntinu e with step 3. For pi zza recipes, see cha pte r18, page 295 in the
main vo lume .

32 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

STRAWBERRY MARINARA

YIELD: 400 g/ 10 cups

TIME ESTIMATE: 1~ hours overall
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: juicer
GOES WELL WITH : Pressure-Cooked Polenta (see page 156)

This bright red sauce looks remarkably like tomato marinara- use it as a pizza sauce. When strawberries are not in season, we use
tomatoes are also acidic, red berry fruits, after all-and you can pears and pressure-cooked quince.
serve this marinara with polenta or ricotta-stuffed ravioli, or even

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Strawberries, hulled 500 g 4cups 227% CD Rinse and juice. Measure 185 g / 180 mL/ 3,4 cup ofthe juice for use in
the next step.
Strawberries, th inly sl iced 220g 1]1, cups 100% 0 Combine with the measured strawberry juice in a large, heavy-
Tomatoes, peeled, 175g 1 cup 80% bottomed pot.
seeded, and diced ® Simmer uncovered, stirring often, until the sauce becomes as thick
Sweet onion, minced 100g 3,4 cup 45% and inte nsely flavored as a rich marinara, about35 minutes.
Dry white wine lOOg 100 mL /VHup 45%
Garlic, thinly sliced 3g y, Tbsp 1.4%
Basil leaves, torn 2g 3- 41eaves 0.9%
Tarragon leaves, bruised 2g 7-91eaves 0 .9%
Salt to taste @ Season the sauce, a nd serve it warm .
Lime juice to taste

Flavor boost
For even more flavor, fold in freshly grated lemon
zest and julienned basil just before serving.

THAI SWEET, SOUR, AND SAVORY GLAZE

YIELD: 135 gI 2/J cup

TIME ESTIMATE: 40 minutes overall, including 10 minutes ofpreparation and 30 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or 6 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: tamarind concentrate, palm sugar
USED IN : Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad (see page 167), Coconut Noodles (see variation on page 123)

This recipe makes a vibrant, tangy version of a classic concentrated with acidic lime juice to balance the sweetness of the sugar. And feel
beef glaze. Toss it with noodles, or use it to glaze grilled lamb, free to add more tamarind concentrate as well; you can find the dark,
chicken, or fish. Add a spoonful to toasted-sesame oil to make a molasses-like concentrate at Asian markets. Use the glaze in a crispy
warm dressing for grilled asparagus. Season the glaze generously beef salad with braised short ribs (see page 99).

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Brown beef stock 1 kg 1 L/ 4'.4 cups 100% CD Reduce over medium-high heat until thick enough to coat the back
see pagelO of a spoon, about 30 minutes.
Cilantro leaves 5g y, cup 0.5% 0 Add to the hot, reduced stock.
Star anise 5g 3-5 whole 0.5% ® Stir, and allow to infuse for about 5 minutes.
Thai basil leaves 5g '/a cup 0.5% @ Strain, pressing the solids to extract the intense flavors.
Tamarind concentrate 20g 4tsp 2% ® Add to the strained glaze.
(Tam icon brand)
Pa lm sugar, grated or 12g 1V2 Tbsp 1.2%
Demerara
Lime juice to taste ® Season the glaze generously, and serve it warm. Th e glaze will so lid ify as
Salt to taste it cools.

SAUCES 33
SOUS VIDE LEMON HERB OIL

YIELD: 200 g/ 1 cup

TIME EST IM ATE: 13~ hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 130 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 2 weeks when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup, lemon thyme leaves, lemon balm leaves, Makrud lime leaves

Lemon balm and lemon thyme can be found in grocery stores that your own-starter plants are often available at plant nurseries.
have a good selection of fresh herbs. Or better yet, you can grow

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Grapeseed oil or 200 g 220 mL / 1 cup 100% CD Preheat a water bath to 60 oC/ 140 °F.
unsalted butter 0 Combine in a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag
Lemongrass, thinly sliced 40g Y2 cup 20% by using the water-displacement method (see page 6), and seal it.
Lemon thyme leaves 25g Yo cup 13% ® Cook so us vide for l V2 hours.
Lemon balm leaves, sli ced 10 g lY.. cups 5% 0 Refrigerate for12 hours.
Makrud lime leaves, lO g 20 leaves 5% ® Strain the oi l (if using butter, melt it first). Discard the solids.
sliced

34 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

MODERNIST VINAIGRETTE

YIELD: 27Sg/11Acups
TIME ESTIMATE: 10 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: liquid soy lecithin (optional)
USED IN: Pressure-Cooked Lentil Salad (see page 74)

This recipe serves as a template for any basic vinaigrette; we list a half- separating out. A pasteurized egg yolk (see page 142 in the main
dozen variations below, but you can substitute other oils and acids to volume) also works well as an emulsifier, but it adds flavor, whereas
create a variety of flavors. The liquid soy lecithin is optional, but add- lecithin does not.
ing 1%-2% of this emulsifier to any vinaigrette prevents the oil from

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Champagne vinegar 40g 45 mL / 3 Tbsp 40% CD Mix together.
Dijon mustard 25g 1y, Tbsp 25%
White balsamic vinegar 15g 15 mL / 1 Tbsp 15%
Apple juice lOg 10 mL / 2 tsp 10%
Extra-virgin olive oil 100 g 110 mL / y, cup 100% 0 Whisk together.
Walnut oil (or similar 85g 90 mL /% cup 85% ® Blend gradually into the vinegar mixture by using an immersion blender
nut oil) until fully emulsified.
Liquid soy lecithin 2g 2%
(NOW brand), optional
Salt to taste 0 Season the dressing generously, and serve it cold or warm.

VARIATIONS
Cilantro Vinaigrette
Blanch, drain, and chop 75 g / 7 cups of
cilantro. Puree the cilantro with 25 g/ 4 tsp
oftahini, 10 g /\12 Tbsp of agave nectar, and
the ingredients in step 1. Gradually blend in
100 g / 110 mL / y, cup of extra-virgin olive
oil until fully emulsified . Season with salt.
Sesame Dressing
Mi x together 40 g / 45 mL / 3 Tbsp of rice
vinegar, 15 g/ 15 mL / 2Y, tsp of dark soy sauce,
and 10 g / 2 tsp of honey. Gradually blend in
80 g/ 90 mL / 3/a cup of toasted-sesame oil, and
100 g / 110 mL /Y2 cup of neutral-tasting oil. Add
26 g/ Yo cup of sliced scallions. Season with salt.
Vietnamese-Style Dressing
Mix together 40 g / 45 mL / 3 Tbsp of rice
vinegar, 25 g / 20 mL / 4Y., tsp offish sauce,
15 g/ 15 mL / 1 Tbsp of lime juice, 10 g / 1 Tbsp
of palm sugar, and 1.2 g/ 1 green Thai chili,
minced. Gradually blend in 100 g/ 110 mL /
y, cup of neutral-tasting oil. Season with salt.
Spiced Chili Dressing
Mix together 68 g / 55 mL / 3Y' Tbsp offish sauce
and 56 g/ 2Y' Tbsp of agave nectar. Gradually
blend in 92 g / 100 mL /Y2 cup ofSous Vide
Spiced Chili Oil (see the next page) and 36 g /
40 mL / 2Y2 Tbsp of toasted-sesame oil. Season
with salt.
Cherry Vinaigrette
At step 1, add 100 g/Y2 cup offresh orfrozen
cherries, pureed.
Fines Herbes Vinaigrette with
Pistachio Butter
Blanch, drain, and chop 50 g/ 3 cups of basil,
25 g/7'• cup of chives, and 15 g / 2 Tbsp each
of scallions and tarragon. Puree the blanched
herbs with the ingredients in step 1. Gradually
blend in 110 g / 120 mL /Y2 cup of extra-virgin
olive oil and 50 g/ 2Y' Tbsp of pistachio butter
until emulsified . Season with salt.

OIL S AN D FAT S 35
SOUS VIDE SPICED CHILl OIL

YIELD: 500 g/2 cups

TIME EST IMATE : 80 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 8 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 2 weeks when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: so us vide setup, mace blades (optional)
USED IN: Sichuan Bok Choy (see page 161), Spiced Chili Dressing (see variation on the previous page),
Deep-Fried Tsukune (see variation on page 118)

Many aromatic compounds in spices and h erbs are fat-soluble, crispy tofu, st eamed rice, or panfried fish. Do not substitute
so oil extracts a lot of flavor from these ingredients. This particular ground mace for blades of mace, or else the flavor will be
oil is spicy, sweet, and fragrant. Drizzle it over steamed vegetables, overwhelming.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Dried ch ipotle chili es, 85g 1Y2 cups 17% CD Preheat the oven to 135 •c / 275 •F, and preheat a water bath to
thinly sliced 70 •c / 158 · F.
Coria nder seeds, cracked 15g Y.. cup 3% 0 Comb in e.
Dried red ch ili es 15 g Y2cup 3% ® Toast in the oven until aromatic, 15-20 minutes .
Star anise 15g 10 pods 3% 0 Cool comp lete ly.
Cinnamon stic ks lOg 2-3 sticks 2% ® Crus h with a mortar and pestle, or place in a zip-top bag, cover with
Fennel seeds, cracked 6g 1 Tbsp 1.2% a paper towel, and crus h with a mallet or rolling pin .
Mace blades (optional) 5g 1 Tbsp 1%
Grapeseed oil or simil ar 500g 540 mL / 2Y., cups 100% @ Combine with the crushed spices in a new zip-top bag, remove as much
neut ral-tast ing oi l air as possible from the bag, and sea l it.
0 Cook so us vid e for 8 hours.
® Cool, and then strain. All ow the oil to infuse overn ight before straining,
if possible.

VARIATIONS
Pressure-Cooked Spiced Chili Oil
Skip steps 6 and 7. Instead, pressure-cook the o il
and spices in canning jars at a gauge pressure of
1 bar / 15 psi for 30 minutes, and then contin ue
with step 8.
Basic Chili Oil
Skip steps 1-5. At step 6, sea l1 5 g / 3 Tbsp of dry
chili flakes with the oil, and cook so us vide at
70 · c / 158 •Ffor 24 hours.
Rose m a ry Oil
Skip steps 1- 5. At step 6, sea l 50 g/ 1 cup offresh
rosemary with the oil, and cook so us vid e at
80 •c / 176 •Ffor 1 hour.
Garlic Oil
Skip ste ps 1-5. At step 6, sea l 250 g / 2 cu ps of
thinly sli ced ga rli c with the oi l, and cook sous
vide at 90 •c / 194 •Ffor 4 hours.
Ginger Oil
Skip steps 1-5. At step 6, puree 225 g / 2 cu ps of
fresh ginger, thinly sli ced, with the oi l. Cook so us
vid e at 70 •c / 158 •Ffor 3 hours. Decant the oi l
from the bag.
Thyme Oil
Skip steps 1-5. At step 6, sea l100 g / 3 cups of
fresh thyme sprigs with the oil, and cook sous
vide at 55 •c / 131 •Ffor 45 minutes.
l e mon Oil
Skip steps 1- 5. At step 6, seal45 g / 5 Tbsp of
fresh ly grated lemon zest with the o il, and cook
so us vide at 60 •c / 140 •Ffor 2 hours.
Vanilla Oil
Skip steps 1-5. At step 6, sea l vanill a seeds
scraped from two pods and the pod membranes
with the oil, and refrigerate for 24 hours .

36 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

HOW TO Make Clarified Butter and Brown Butter

High-powered blenders and em ulsifi ers like egg and soy lecit hin allow
you to make a fine emu lsion and stabilize it. Clarified butter (call ed
ghee in Indian cuis in e) is one of those rare cases in which chefs inten-
ti ona lly break an emu lsio n-in this case, the em ulsion of water, fat, and
milk so lids that we know and love as butter. When fully heated, these
components separate, and you can isolate the pure, clarified butterfat.
Once clarified, butter tolerates higher temperatures without burn-
ing. And with no milk proteins to go rancid, it keeps longer. If yo u coo k
butter thoroughly enough during the clarification process, t he milk
so lids can caramelize and le nd their fl avo rs and colors to the clarified
butter, yielding the dark, nutty brown or black of beurre noisette and
beurre noir.

1 Melt unsalted butter slowly in a saucepan over gentle heat.
2 Wait for the butter to start to bubble-your sign that the emu lsion
has broken. Set the pan aside to let the layers settle.
Adding nonfat milk powder while yo u cook brown or black butter effec-
tively increases the amount of milk solids, which in turn creates more flavor
and deeper color. We first saw this technique mentioned on the website
ld eas lnFood .com.

3 To make ghee, skip to step 5. For brown butter, skip to step 6. For
black butter, sk ip to step 7. For clarified butter, spoon off the froth
from the top.

4 Clarify the butter by filtering it through a very fine sieve or through

cheesecloth.

5 To make ghee, co ntinue to warm the melted butterfrom step 2 over

low heat for 45 minutes. As the milk proteins oxidize an d so lidify,
the flavor will deepen, but the butter will not brown . Sieve the ghee
immediately, or let it rest overnight to develop even more flavor.

6 To make brown butter, seal100 g of melted butterfrom step 2 with

30 g of nonfat milk powder in a can ning jar, place the jar in a pressure
coo ker filled with 1 em I 'Is in of water, and then pressure-cook at a
gauge pressure of 1 bar / 15 psi for 30 minutes. Th en sieve the butter
as in step4.

7 To make black butter, stir 30 g of nonfat milk powder into 100 g of

melted butter from step 2, and heat the mixture until the solids brown
and darken but do not scorch. Then sieve the butter as in step 4.

OilS AND FATS 37

MONTPELLIER BUTTER

YIELD: 850 g/ 3~ cups

TIME ESTIMATE: 45 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for up to 6 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup
USED IN: Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter (see variation on page 118)
GOES WELL WITH: Sous Vide Braised Snails (see page 135)

Classic French cooking features many compound butters that melt melting; the great advantage of this recipe is that the eggs and gelatin
onto hot food to create a sauce. One of the most famous is Montpellier help the butter to stay better emulsified when hot.
butter. Unfortunately, compound butters tend to separate upon

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Egg yolks, blended lOOg 6Y2 Tbsp / 7-8 yolks 22% @ Preheat a water bath to 67 ' C/ 153 ' F.
0 Place the yolks in a zip·top bag, remove as much air as possible from
the bag by using the water-displacement method (see page 6), and
sea l it.
® Cook sous vide for 30 minutes. Continue with steps 4-7 while the egg
yolks cook .
Unsalted butter 450g 2 cups 100% 0 Soften to room temperature, and whisk until very smooth.
Coldwater 45g 45 mL/ 3Tbsp 10% ® Sprinkle the gelatin over the water in a small pan, and allow to soften
Unflavored gelatin 18g 4% for 5 minutes.
(K nox brand) ® Warm over low heat until melted.
0 Blend into the soft butter until fully combined.
® Ble nd the butter mixture into the egg yolks gradually until fully
emulsified. Use an immersion blende r or a stand mixer.
Pressure-Cooked Garli c 90g 6Y2 Tbsp 20% ® Combine.
Confit @ Fold into t he butter mixture until evenly distributed.
see page 44
@ Roll the butter in plastic wrap into logs, or spread it into sheets on a
Anchovy paste or 30 g lY2 Tbsp 7% si licone mat, and cut it into pieces. If freezing the butter, wrap it with
Asian fish sauce plastic wrap first.
Pickled onions, minced 25g 4 Tbsp 6% @ Serve the butter finely grated or in thin sheets over hot food.
see page 48
Chives, thinly sliced 15g y,cu p 3%
Italian parsley, chopped 15g 4 Tbsp 3%
Fresh ginger, peeled lOg y, Tbsp 2%
and grated
Salt 9g 2Y., tsp 2%
Lemon zest 2.5g :Y., tsp 0.6%
Cayenne pepper 2g ltsp 0.4%
Lime ju ice 2g 2 mL /Y2 tsp 0.4%
Black pepper 1.2g ltsp 0.3%
Star anise, finely ground 0.7 g Y. tsp 0.2%

38 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

STOVE-TOP CAROTENE BUTTER

YIELD: 250 g/ 1 cup

TIME ESTIMATE: 14 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 130 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 2 weeks when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
USED IN: Caramelized Carrot Soup (see page 75)

The carotene pigment that makes carrots orange is fat-soluble; that
is why your butter turns a beautiful orange when you make glazed
carrots. By cooking carrot juice and butter together, you can dissolve
the pigment into the butterfat. You can use a similar trick to capture
the pigment that makes lobsters turn red when cooked; it, too, makes
a flavorful butter (see the next page).
This carotene butter is superb for finishing soups and purees,
cooking fish and shellfish, and whisking into warm vinaigrettes. So
make plenty, if you can, and pull it out of the freezer when you want
to add an elegant twist to simple dishes.
In addition to the variations we suggest below, try making butters
from other ingredients having fat-soluble pigments and flavor com-
pounds, such as tomatoes, fresh chilies, fresh turmeric, and greens
and herbs of all kinds.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Fresh carrot juice
Unsalted butter, cubed
700 g 700 mL / 3 cups 100% CD Measure 450 g/ 450 mL / 2 cups, and bring the juice to simmer in a pot
over medium heat. Reserve the remaining juice for use in step 4.
450 g 2 cups 64% 0 Blend gradually into the juice by using an immersion blender.
® Simmer for 1y, hours, stirring frequently.
0 Remove from the heat, and stir or blend in the remaining carrot juice.
® Cool, and then refrigerate overnight.
® Scoop the congealed butterfat into a pot, and warm it until melted.
0 Strain the melted butter through a fine sieve lined with ch eesecloth.

VARIATIONS
Bell Pepper Butter Coffee Butter Porcini Butter
Substitute fres h red bell pepper juice for the Comb ine 250 g/ 3 cups of whole coffee beans Comb in e 225 g/ 17'• cups of crumb led dry porcini
carrot juice. (neve r ground) with the butter. Vacuum seal, with the butter. Vacuum sea l, and cook sous vid e
and cook so us vid e at 70 "C/ 158 "Ffor 12 hours. at 70 "C/ 158 "Ffor1 hour. Strain.
Spinach Butter
Strain.
Puree 450 g / 3\4 cups of blanched, drained
spinach into 450 g/ 490 mL / 2 cups of melted
butter, and then continu e at step 5.

OILS AND FATS 39

PRESSURE-COOKED CRUSTACEAN BUTTER
YIELD: 350g/2c ups
TIME ESTIMATE: 10 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 1 hour unattended
STORAGE NO TES: keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 2 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFI CU LTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS : pressure cooker; shells of lobsters, crabs, or shrimp
USED IN: Crustacean Hollandaise (see variation on page 29), Lobster Roll (see page 130)

The shells oflobster, crab, and shrimp turn pink or red when cooked
thanks to carotenes, the same family of molecules that give carrots
a nd tomatoes their color. And you can extract these fat-soluble
pigments from crustacean shells, along with lots of flavor, the
same way as when making carotene butter from carrots (see the
previous page): by cooking them in butter, oil, or some other fat .
Use this highly flavorful butter in place of ordinary butter to make
an amazing hollandaise or beurre blanc sauce, or stir it into soups,
sauces, and sautes.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

She ll s of lobsters, crabs, 600 g
crayfish, shrimp, or prawns
Unsa lted butter
Baking soda
from 2 lobste rs 100% 0 Clean by discarding all organs, including the gills and eyes.
or 2 large crabs 0 Chop into pi eces by using a heavy knife or a cleaver.
® Place the pieces into a large (4 L/ 1 gal) zip-top bag, and partially sea l it.
Cover the bag with a towel, and pound it with a mallet to crush the shells
into small er pieces. This step acce lerates fl avo r extraction.
450g 2 cups 75% 0 Me lt in the base of a pressure cooker over low heat.
4.5g ltsp 0 .75% ® Add, stir to d isso lve completely, and stir in the she ll s.
® Pressure-cook at a gauge press ure of1 bar / 15 psi for1 ho ur. Start timing
as soo n as ful l pressu re has been reached.
0 Let the cooker cool, or run te pid water over the rim, to depressurize it.
® Refrigerate the shells in the butter overnight, if tim e permits, to further
infu se their fl avo r. Reheat until melted.
® Strain. Disca rd th e shells.
@) Let th e butter rest until it clearly separates, and then pour the butter off
th e top. Alternatively, chill th e butter until it sets, an d then scoop it off
the top.
Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 5

VAR IATIONS Save any rendered lobste r juices that are

So us Vide Crustacean Butter beneath the butter when yo u pour it off in
Preheat a water bath to 88 •c / 190 • f. Follow steps 1-3, step 10. Th ey are quite sweet and delicious
vacuum seal the pieces together with the butter and bak ing when added to a she ll fish bisque or sauce.
soda, and cook so us vide for 5 hours. Plunge th e bag in an ice
bath, and then refrigerate it for 12 hours to all ow th e fl avo rs
to infuse . Reheat until me lted, an d th en co ntinu e at step 9.

Pressure-Cooked Lobster Bisque

Heavy cream 450g 500 mL / 2 cups
Lobster shells, broke n 350 g from 11obster
in to small pieces
Dry white wine 200g 200 mL/Va cup
Sweet onion, sli ced 150 g 1Y' cups
Tomato paste 20 g 1Y2 Tbsp
Tarrago n, leaves 2g 7-9 1eaves
Cayenne pe pp er 0.1 g pin ch
Salt to taste
Combine all the ingredi ents in a press ure coo ke r, and coo k at
a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi fo r 45 minutes. Depress uri ze
the cooker. Strain into a pot. Discard the so lids. Simm er the
liquid over medium -high heat until reduced by half. Seaso n
the soup to taste, and se rve with min ced chives and lobster
meat cooked sous vide (see steps 1-5 on page 130).

40 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

PRESSURE-RENDERED CHICKEN FAT

YIELD: 100-200 g/ 0-1 cup, depending on the fat content of the chicken skin
TIME ESTIMATE: 2 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 10 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 2 weeks when refrigerated and up to 6 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: meat grinder, pressure cooker, two 500 mL / 16 oz canning jars
USED IN: Home Jus Gras (see page 17), Chicken Noodle Soup (see page 119)

A recipe for fat may strike some as strange, but fat is one of the key
flavor elements in food. French cuisine would be unrecognizable
without cream and butter. Indian cuisine relies heavily on ghee
(clarified butter). Chefs in Mediterranean countries turn habitually
to olive oil, while those in Tibet always have yak butter on hand.
The recipe here is for rendered chicken fat, which is widely used
in Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine. (The Yiddish word for it-schmaltz-
has taken on a whole other connotation in American English.)
As much as we love cream, butter, and olive oil, rendered fat is
sometimes a better choice for use in a sauce or as a complement
to meats because it does not distract from the flavor of the other
ingredients. We use our Modernist schmaltz to enrich chicken sauce,
salad dressing, and garlic, but it has innumerable applications-
you can even use it to fry eggs!
Buy chicken skin from your butcher, or collect scraps of fat and
skin from other chicken recipes in the freezer until you have enough
to render. Note that the same technique can be used for any animal
fat, including turkey, duck, or goose skin, and fatty trimmings from
cuts of pork, veal, or beef.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Chicken skin, ground
Baking soda (optional)
500 g/ 1.1 lb 2'.4 cups 100% 0 Combine, and divide equally into two 500 mL / 16 oz canning jars.
2.5 g y, tsp 0.5% Tighten the lids fully, and then unscrew them one-quarter turn so that
they do not explode.
® Place the fill ed jars on a rack or trivet in the base of a pressu re cooker
with 2.5 cm / 1 in of water.
® Pressure-cookatagauge pressure of1 bar/ 15 psi for1Y2 hours. Start
timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.
0 Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.
Let the jar contents cool before opening to avoid splattering.
® Strain. Discard the so lids.
® Allow the liquid to settle, and then decant the warm fat . Alternatively,
refrigerate it until the fat solidifies, at least 4 hours, and then scoop the
clear fat off the top.
Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 5

We use canning jars inside the pressure cooker Wet-Rendering Dry-Rendering

because it simplifies cleanup, and we aren't
usually rend ering more fat than will fit in a couple
jars. But you can render a large batch by putting
2.5 cm / 1 in of water in the pressure cooker,
and then adding the ground skin. The pressure
cooker should be no more than two-thirds full.
Drop the skin or fat into boiling water, and
reduce it until all that is left are pieces of meat
and tissue floating in bubbling fat . Strain.
Discard the solids. Allow the liquid to separate,
and then pour the warm fat off the top .
Saute the skin or fat over low heat until the fat
melts. The cooking causes Maillard reactions
that enhance the flavor of the rendered fat .
Dry-rendered fat keeps for several weeks in the
refrigerator. This method works particularly well
with fatty bacon.

OILS AND FATS 41

GRILLED APPLESAUCE

YIELD: 380 g/ 1% cups

TIME ESTIMATE: 40 minutes overall, including 20 minutes ofpreparation and 20 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 1 day when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup, charcoal grill
GOES WELL WITH: Grilled Pork Chop (see page 83), Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples (see variation
on page 150)

The apples for this sauce are twice-cooked: first sous vide, which the apples emerge from the water bath, they should be firm enough
establishes just the right texture, and again on the grill, which devel- to hold together on the grill but soft enough to puree to a creamy
ops the roasted flavors that make this applesauce distinctive. When sauce. We call for green apples, but other varieties work well, too.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Green apples, peeled, 1 kg 41arge 100% CD Preheat a water bath to 90 oC / 194 °F.
quartered, and cored 0 Vacuum sea l the apples in a single layer.
® Cook sous vide unti l tender, about 20 minutes .
0 While the apples are cooking, build a fire in a charcoal grill, and prepare
an ice-water bath alongside the so us vide water bath.
® Place a clean grill rack over the coals to preheat for at least 10 minutes .
When the coals are gray and ashy, bank them to one side.
® Plunge the bag of cooked apples into the ice bath until completely cool.
Cooking spray or as needed 0 Remove the apples from the bag, and spray or brush them with a light
neutral frying oil coating of oil.
see page viii
® Sear the apples, on one side only, on the grill over the banked coals until
the side facing the grill turns brown, about 3 minutes.
® Puree the seared apples in a blender until smooth .
@ Pass the puree through a fine sieve, and measure 250 g/ 1Ys cups for use
in the next step.
Dijon mustard 40g 3Tbsp 4% @ Combine with the apple puree, and stir together.
Rendered bacon fat, warm 40 g 45 mL / 3 Tbsp 4%
see the previous page
Honey 35g 2Tbsp 3.5%
Cider vinegar 16g 20 mL/314 tsp 1.6%
Salt to taste @ Season the sauce, and serve it cold or warm.

42 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

PRESSURE-COOKED PICKLED MUSTARD SEEDS

YIELD: 350g/ 1 cup

TIME ESTIMATE: 13 hours, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 120 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days in brine when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker
USED IN: Honey Mustard Sauce (see page 115), Microwaved Potato Salad (see page 162)

Mustard seeds are naturally bitter, but overnight soaking followed Serve the pickled seeds as a condiment with braised meat, or stir
by five rounds of blanching removes any trace of bitterness. We then them into vinaigrettes, mayonnaise, hollandaise, or reduction sauces
pressure-cook the seeds to give them a pleasant "pop" when eaten. to add both texture and a sweet-and-sour accent.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Yellow mustard seeds 50 g 4y, Tbsp 100% 0 Cover with cold water, and refrigerate ove rnight or for 12 hours.
0 Strain.
® Cover with more cold water in a small pot, bring to a boil, and then
stra in.
0 Repeat step 3 four more times.
Apple cider vinegar 100g 120 mL /Y2 cup 200% ® Combine in th e base of a pressure cooker, and stir until dissolved.
Water 70g 70 mL / y, cup 140% 0 Bring to a simmer, and add the strained seeds to the brine.
Sugar 40g 3Tbsp 80% 0 Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for 25 minutes. Start
Salt Sg 1\4 tsp 10% timing as soon as ful l pressure has been reached .
® Let the coo ker coo l, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.
® Strain the seeds, reserving the brine for storing the seeds, and serve
them warm or cold.
Safety tips for pressure-cooking: see page 5

COND I MENTS 43
PRESSURE-COOKED GARLIC CONFIT

YIELD: 300 g/ 11,4 cups

TIME ESTIMATE: 21,4 hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 2 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 1 month when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker, 500 mL/ 16 oz canning jar
USED IN: Montpellier Butter (see page 38), Aioli (see variation on page 25), Garlic Hollandaise
(see variation on page 29), Steel-Cut Oats with Sous Vide Braised Snails (see variation
on page 154), Caramelized Onion Gravy (see variation on page 24), Broccoli Raab Pizza
(see variation on page 143), Creamed Spinach (see page 82), Garlic Mashed Potatoes
(see variation on page 100)

Garlic con fit is a staple condiment. The garlic is soft enough to body to any liquid. The oil, which is just as flavorful, is delicious
spread on bread with a sprinkle of salt. Or use it to add depth to drizzled over salads or into vegetable stews (see page 78).
broths, sauces, purees, and vinaigrettes. The silky, soft cloves add

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Olive oil 200g 220 mL / 1 cup 160% CD Place in a 500 mL/ 16 oz canning jar, tighten the lid fully, and then
Garlic cloves, peeled 125g about 50 cloves 100% unscrew it one-quarter turn so that the jar doesn't ex plode.
Rosemary 2g 1 sprig 1.6% ® Place the filled jar on a rack or trivet in the base of a pressure cooker,
Thyme a nd add 2.5 em / 1 in of water.
2g 2-3 sprigs 1.6%
® Press ure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 2 hours. Start
timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.
0 Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.
Let the jar contents cool before opening.
® Serve the confit warm or cold.
Safety tipsfar pressure-cooking: see page 5

VARIATIONS
Proven~al Garlic Confit
Add other Proven~al aro matics such as oregano, fennel seed, bay leaf,
lavender, and sage to the rosemary and thyme.

Mediterranean Vegetable Confit Fingerling Potatoes Confit

Zucchini, sliced into 225 g about18 rounds Fingerling potatoes, cut 300 g 2% cups
0.5 em /¥•• in rounds into 2.5 cm / 1 in pieces
Red bell pepper, julienned 125g about 1 pepper Thyme 2 sprigs
Button mushrooms, 100g about 8 mushrooms Pressure-rendered 250 g 280 mL /
cut into eighths chicken fat, melted lY• cups
Extra-virgin olive oil 370 g 410 mL/ 1Y., cups Salt to taste
Balsamic vinega r 6g 7 mL / 1Y, tsp Divide the potatoes and thyme into two 500 mL / 16 oz ca nning jars,
Salt to taste a nd cover with the fat . Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi
Divide the vegetables into two 500 mL / 16 oz canning jars, and cove r with for45 minutes. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.
the olive oil. Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 45 min- Depressurize the cooker. Let the jar contents cool before opening. Drain
utes. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached. Depressurize the potatoes, season, and serve them warm. They pair very well with
the cooker. Let the jar contents cool before opening. Strain the vegetables roasted chicken (see page 106).
from the jars, and season with balsamic vinegar, o live oi l from the jar, and
salt to taste .

44 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

PRESSURE-CARAMELIZED ONIONS

YIELD: 380 g/ 11'2 cups

TIME ESTIMATE: 1 hour overall, including 20 minutes ofpreparation and 40 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker, three 500 mL / 16 oz canning jars
USED IN : Caramelized Onion Gravy (see variation on page 24), Alsatian Omelet Filling (see variation on
page 57), Savory Cheese Pie (see variation on page 183)

Caramelized onions are a favorite component of many dishes.
They can be used as a topping for a hamburger or pizza, served
as a side dish for a steak, or placed center stage as the featured
ingredient of a French onion soup or an onion tart.
There are many ways to make caramelized onions. This
Modernist method browns the onions perfectly with no hands-
on effort, maximizing their flavor while minimizing the risk
of burning them. After pressure-cooking, the onions are quite
soft; you ca n dry them on the stove top or in a dehydrator (see
variation below).

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Yellow onion, julienned
Baki ng soda
Unsalted butter, cubed
Salt
Sugar
Black pe pper, ground
500g 4:Y., cups 100% CD Co mbine in a large bowl, a nd mi x thoroughly.
1.5 g 1,4 tsp 0.3% 0 Divide the onion mixture even ly into three 500 mL / 16 oz ca nning jars.
35g 3 Tbsp 7% ® Divide the butter eve nly among th e filled ja rs. Tighten the lids fully, and
then unscrew them one-qua rter turn so that the jars don't explode.
0 Place the fi ll ed ja rs on a rack or trivet in the base of a pressure cooker,
and add 2.5 cm / 1 in of wate r.
® Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for40 minutes . Start
timing as soon as full pressure has been reached .
0 Let the cooker coo l, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.
Let the jar contents coo l before opening to avo id splatte ring.
0 Transfer the cooked onions to a pot.
® Simmer over med ium heat, stirring occasional ly, until the liquid has
redu ced to a syrup, 10-12 minutes.
to taste ® Season the onions to taste, a nd serve them warm.
to taste
to taste
Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 5

VARIATIONS
Dried Caramelized Onions
For a drier texture a nd more conce ntrated fl avo r, drain the liquid from
the cooked onions afte r step 6. (You can use this liquid as a fl avo rful broth
or stir it into a meat or poultry jus.) Arrange the o nions in a dehydrator,
and dehydrate them at 63 ' C/ 145 ' F until slightly leathe ry, 1Y2-2 hours.
Alte rnative ly, sa ute the onions in a pan over very low heat; take ca re not
to burn them.
French Onion Soup
After step 7, add 200 g / 200 mL /i'a cup of brown beef stock (see
page 10), 15 g/ 15 mL / 1 Tbsp of dry sherry, and a sprig of fresh thyme.
Bring the so up to a boil, a nd then divid e it into bowls . Top each bowl
with toasted crusty bread covered with a Perfectly Me lting Cheese Sli ce
(see page 145) o r so me other variety of constructed cheese.

CONDIMENTS 45
TOMATO CONFIT

YIELD: 150g/ 1 cup

TIME ESTIMATE: up to 80 hours overall, including 20 minutes ofpreparation and 5-8 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen
LEV EL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: vacuum sealer
USED IN: Tomato Leather (see the next page), Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Confit and Basil
(see variation on page 150), Pork Belly B.L.T. (see page 102)
INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE
Tomatoes (Rom a or 1 kg 6-8 medium 100% 0 Preheatthe oven to 110 •c / 230 •f.
on-the-vine)
0 Bring a large pot of water to a boil, and arrange an ice-water bath
alongside.
0 Core the tomatoes, and slice a sma ll X in the sk in opposite the core.
0 Blanch the tomatoes for 30 seconds, and then plunge them into the
ice bath.
® Peel the tomatoes .
® Cut them in half lengthwise, and gently remove and discard the seeds.
0 Pat them dry, and place them cut-side down on a baking sheet lined with
a si licone mat.
Extra-virgin olive oil 40g 45 mL / 3 Tbsp 4% ® Brush even ly onto the tomato halves.
Garlic, thinly sliced 15g 2Tbsp 1.5% ® Scatter over the tomato halves. Basil or tarragon may be substituted.
Thyme 4g 4-5 sprigs 0.4%
Fresh bay leaves, torn 1g 21eaves 0.1%
Salt 2g y, tsp 0.2% @ Sprink le even ly over the tomato halves.
Sugar 2g y, tsp 0.2% @ Place the tomatoes in t he oven, and dry them for1 hour.
@ Turn the tomatoes over, lower the oven temperature to 95 •c / 205 •f,
and return them to the oven to dry until they become deep red and
shriveled, 5-8 hours depending on t heir size and water content.
@ Cool, and then pick off and discard the garlic and herbs.
Extra-virgin olive oil 40 g 45 mL/ 3Tbsp 4% @ Vacuum seal w ith the tomatoes to infuse the olive oil.
@) Serve warm or cold.
(adapted from Heston Blumenthal)

We always have oven-dried tomatoes on hand to add depth of flavor to

sim ple dishes. Rom a-style tomatoes give the most consistent results, and
they don't have to be perfect: blemishes can't be seen once they sh rivel,
and drying concentrates the flavors of watery or bland tomatoes.

46 MO DERNI ST CUI SINE AT HOM E

TOMATO LEATHER

YIELD: 40 g/ one 10 em by 15 em/ 4 in by 6 in sheet

TIME ESTIMATE: up to 21,4 hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 2 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 1 week when rolled in a single layer in waxed paper and sealed in plastic wrap
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: food dehydrator, xanthan gum (optional)
USED IN: Lobster Roll (see page 130)

Leathers make a healthy snack or a fancy garnish (say, a little tangle as onion. The oil in the recipe prevents the leather from sticking
of apple leather atop squash soup). The variations below show how to your teeth; the more oil you use, the more tender and supple
to extend this recipe to myriad other fruits and even vegetables, such the resulting leather.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Tomato Confit, pureed, 100g 6Tbsp 100% 0 Stir thoroughly to combine.
or tomato paste 0 Spread onto a nonstick surface in a rectangle 10 em by 15 em / 4 in
see the previous page
by 6 in, about2 mm / Y1• in thick.
Extra-virgin olive oil 5g 6 ml/1Ya tsp 5% 0 Dry the mixture in a food dehydrator at 65 °C/ 150 oF until it turns
Red wine vinegar 5g 7 mL / 1Ya tsp 5% leathery, lV2-2 hours. Alternatively, dry until leathery in an oven set
Hot sauce (Tabasco brand) 1 g 1 mL / 2 drops 1% to its lowest temperature setting. Drying times vary.
Xanthan gum (Bob's Red 0 .2g 0 .2% @ Peel the leatherfrom the nonstick surface, and cut it into desired shapes.
Mill brand), optional ® Serve at room temperature.

1 Stir the tomato confit or paste, olive oil, vinegar, Tabasco, and xa nthan
gum (optional) together thoroughly. If you are using the xanthan gum, 4 Peel the tomato leather from the nonstick surface, and cut it into the
desired shapes.
make sure to stir until it is well distributed .

5 Serve the leather at room temperature.

2 Spread the mixture onto a nonstick surface in a rectangle 10 em by

15 em I 4 in by 6 in, about 2 mm / y,. in thick. An offset spatula is the
ideal tool forth is .

3 Dry the mixture in a food dehydrator at 65 °C/ 150 °F until it turns

leathery and flexible, and is easy to peel, 1Y2- 2 hours . If a dehydrator
is not available, use an oven set to its lowest temperature; the drying
time will vary.

VARIATIONS
Mango Chili Leather Fruit Leather
Mango, diced and peeled 100 g )Ia cup Substitute app le, pear, apricot, raspberry, or persimmon for the mango in
Neutral-tasting oil 4g 4 mL /% tsp the variation at left, and add 0 .2 g of xanthan gum and up to 15 g of sugar
for every 100 g of puree. You can also use whole mandarin oranges or
Sugar 2g Y2tsp
quince, but these fruits must first be pressure-cooked until tender and
Red Thai chili 1g Y2 tsp
then sieved.
Puree together, and continue with step 2.
Onion Leather
At step 1, substitute cooked onion or shallot puree for the tomato confit,
and replace the ol ive oil with a neutral-tasting vegetab le oil. Puree, and
then continue with step 2.

CONDIM ENTS 47
VACUUM-PICKLED VEGETABLES

YIELD: 300g/2 cups

TIME ESTIMATE: 1214 hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 12 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 2 weeks when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: vacuum sealer with marinating attachment, rigid vacuum storage container or canning jars
USED IN: Sweet Onion Slaw (see page 69), Autumn Flavors Bok Choy (see variation on page 162)

We use pickled vegetables minced and mixed into salads, as con-
diments for grilled meats, and as a garnish for stews. This recipe
uses carrots, but it works just as well with other vegetables-and
even with fruits-such as cauliflower florets, thinly sliced lemons,
radishes, pearl onions, apples, beets, cucumbers, blanched mush-
rooms, julienned red onions, and sunchokes (Jerusalem artichokes).
Simply substitute them for the carrots at step 2.
The thinner you slice the vegetables, the quicker they pickle.
We seal the pickles while the brine is warm to create a mild vacuum
and a more tender pickle; if you prefer crisp pickles, chill the brine
before adding it at step 4. When the pickles are gone, don't throw
the pickling liquid away. Use it as a base for a vinaigrette, or stir it
into a dirty martini.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 200g 200 ml / 7'• cup 100% CD Combine in a pot to make a brine, and bring it to a simmer.
White win e vinegar 200g 230 mL / 1 cup 100%
Sugar 80 g y, cup 40%
Salt 12 g 1 Tbsp 6%
Yellow mustard seeds 3g ltsp 1.5%
Black peppercorns 2.5g lV2 tsp 1.3%
Coriander seeds 1.5 g ltsp 0.8%
Fresh bay leaves 0.5 g 21eaves 0.3%
Carrots, sliced 300g 2V2 cups 150% 0 Pour the warm brine over the carrots, and stir until moistened.
3 mm /Vs in thick ® Cool slightly.
0 Pour the carrots and liquid into a rigid vacuum storage conta in er or
can ning jars, and vacuum seal.
® Refrigerate for at least 12 hours.

1 Combine all ingredients except the vegetables in a pot, and bring them
to a simmer. Th is is the brine.
2 Pour the warm brine over the vegetables, and stir until they are
moistened.
4 Place th e vegetables into a rigid vacuum storage conta iner or canning
jars, and pour the warm brine over top. Seal the jars, or vacuum seal
the container by using a tube attachment until bubbles no longer rise
to the surface. Vacuum sea ling accelerates the infusion of the brine into
the vegetables.

3 Cool the mixture slightly.

5 Refrigerate for at least 12 hours for best flavor, agitating severa l times to
ens ure that the vegetables are even ly pickled.

We like our pickles on the sweet side. For a more To preserve the pick led vegetab les and give
traditional sour pickle, reduce the amount of them a fresh, distinct snap, add 2 g of calcium
sugar to 15 g / 1y, Tbsp. chloride or calcium lactate at step 1.

48 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

VACUUM-INFUSED CELERY
YIELD: 60g/0cup
TIME ESTIMATE: 35 minutes overall, including 5 minutes ofpreparation and 30 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: vacuum sealer with marinating attachment, malic acid or citric acid
USED IN: Lobster Roll (see page 130)

Any porous fruit or vegetable, such as celery, apple, fennel, or water- in the cells of the plant tissue with the liquid of your choice. Malic
melon, can be vacuum-infused with its own juice or with another acid, available from wine-making and brewing suppliers, adds the
flavorful thin liquid. The process fills the air pockets, called vacuoles, tartness of green apples. Do not use malic acid dietary supplements.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Apple juice 200g 200 mL /rs cup 100% 0 Stir together until the malic acid has dissolved.
Celery seeds 20g 3Tbsp 10% 0 Allow to infuse for 30 minutes, and strain. Discard the seeds .
Malic acid or citric acid 4g 2%
Celery, sliced 60 g y, cup 30% ® Combine with the strained apple juice in a small bowl. The liquid should
5 mm / 3/1• in thick cover the slices.
0 Place the bowl in a canister specifically designed for vacuum sealing or
marinating, and vacuum seal. Alternatively, place in a canning jar having
a special vacuum -sealing lid, and seal.
® Release the vacuum to infuse the celery.
® Drain the celery, and serve it immediately.

VARIATIONS
Pressure-Infused Celery
If you have a whipping siphon, you can infuse the food by using high pres-
sure rather than a vacuum. After step 3, pour the mixture into a whipping
siphon . The liquid should cover the ce lery slices. Charge the siphon with
two cartridges of nitrous oxide, and refrigerate it for 20 minutes. Release
the pressure, drain the celery, and serve it immediately.
Waldorf Salad
Apple-infused celery makes a great addition to this classic New York salad.
To 40 g/ 5 Tbsp of the infused celery slices, add 100 g / 1 cup of chopped
butter lettuce, 50 g/:Ys cup of finely julienned celery root, 50 g /¥o cup of
thinly sliced green apple, and 25 g / 2Y2 Tbsp of chopped walnuts. Toss with
45 g/ 3y, Tbsp of romaine dressing (see steps 1- 9 on page 70).

CONDIMENTS 49
SWEET BRINE FOR MEATS

YIELD: 170 g/% cup of brine for 750 g/ 1.7/b of meat

TIME ESTIMATE: 12~ hours, including 12 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: brine keeps for up to 3 days when refrigerated; brined and drained meat keeps for up to 24 hours
when refrigerated but must then be cooked
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: brine injector or syringe

This brine works well with all meats. For a less sweet variation, If you have a Jaccard meat tenderizer, you can use that instead of
simply replace the milk and juice with water. Bear in mind, however, an injector; puncture the meat on all sides, and then soak it in the
that whole milk and apple juice both contain natural phosphates brine for 24 hours.
that tenderize the meat as it brines.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Whole milk 75g 75 mL / 5 Tbsp 10% 0 Stir together until the sa lt and sugar are comp letely dissolved.
Apple juice 75g 75 mL/ 5 Tbsp 10%
Salt lOg 2Y' tsp 1.3%
Sugar 9g 1 Tbsp 1.2%
Raw, boneless meat, 750 g/ 1.71b 100% 0 Inject the meat with as much brine as it will hold, and then immerse
no thicker than it in any leftover brine.
3.5 cm /H's in
® Refrigerate the brined meat for12 hours before cooking.

BASIC BRINE FOR WHOLE POULTRY

YIELD: 210 g/18 cup of brine for 2 kg/ 4.4/b ofpoultry

TIME ESTIMATE: 24~ hours, including 24 hours unattended
STORAGE OTES: brine keeps indefinitely before use; brined poultry keeps for up to 24 hours when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 200g 200 mL /1'• cup 10% 0 Stir together until the sa lt is completely dissolved .
Salt 12 g 1 Tbsp 0.6%
Chicken 2 kg / 4.4lb 1whole 100% 0 Inject the brine as evenly as possible throughout the meat. Place the
needle (as shown on page 133 in the main volume) into the neck and
back cavities to avo id puncturing the skin.
® Refrigerate the brined chicken for 24 hours, uncovered, to dry the sk in
before roasting (see page 106), steaming, or poaching the bird.

VARIATION: Savory Poultry Brine

At step 1 of the recipe above for Basic Brine for Whole Poultry,
add 10 g / 2 Tbsp of toasted coriander seeds, 8 g / 2 tsp of black
peppercorns, and 5 g of star anise (about 5 star a nise pods) to
the salted water, and bring to a boil. Coo l comp letely, and strain .
Continue with step 2.

50 MODERNIST CU ISINE AT HOME

FISH BRINE

YIELD: 1.1 kg/ 41,4 cups of brine for 600 g/ 1.3lb offish
TIME ESTIMATE: up to 121,4 hours, including 10 minutes ofpreparation and 5-12 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: brine keeps indefinitely before use; cook brined fish immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 1 kg 1 L/ 4\4 cups 167% 0 Stir together until the salt and sugar are comp lete ly dissolved.
Salt 50 g 8%
Sugar 40 g 3'/2 Tbsp 7%
Fish, cut into individual 600 g/ 1.31b 100% 0 Soak in the brine for 5 hours for a light brine with delicate seasoning,
portions or for up to 12 hours for a firmer, more intensely flavored result. Use the
longer brining time when making cold fish dishes .

VARIATIONS
Seaweed Fish Brine
After step 1, add 10 g / 2 Tbsp of toasted coriander seeds, 10 g (about
2 sheets) of kombu seaweed, and 3 g / 3 tsp of grated lemon zest to the
brine, and bring it to a boil. Cool the brine completely, and then strain it.
Continu e with step 2.
Fish Cure
Curing is generally faster than brining because the salt and sugar are not
diluted in liquid. To make a quick cure for fish, combine 35 g / 3'/2 Tbsp of
sa lt with 25 g / 2'/2 Tbsp of sugar for every 1 kg / 2.2 lb offish. Cut the fish
into abo ut six portions. Coat each portion even ly with the cure. Refrigerate
the fish, covered, for 45 minutes, and then rinse it, pat dry, and cook.

MARINADES

By mixing together just a few flavorful items from the pantry, you
can create a marinade that adds an evocative regional flavor to
meats, poultry, seafood, or vegetables. Each of the variations below
is made the same way. Stir all of the ingredients together, and add
up to 450 g/ lib of the food you want to marinate. Refrigerate for
the time indicated, and then cook.
Each of these recipes includes a good bit of salt, either directly
or in one of the liquid ingredients. As such, these marinades are
actually flavored brines. Although most of the flavor of the mari-
nade penetrates only the surface of the food, the salt sinks in more
deeply. It firms the texture and enhances the juiciness of the food
as it seasons. Acids in the marinade also can change food texture,
and not always for the better, so don't leave them on for longer
than suggested.

Vietnamese Marinade Mexican Marinade Mediterranean Yogurt Marinade

Asian fish sauce 130g 100 mL /:Y. cup Orange juice 300 g 300 mL / 1\4 cups Plain yogurt 250 g 1 cup
Rice vinegar 9Sg 110 mL / '/2 cup Chipotle chilies in 60g '/2 cup Garlic, chopped 14 g 1'/2 Tbsp
Sugar 60g STbsp adobo, chopped Mint, thinly sliced 5g 2 Tbsp
Water SSg 55 mL/ 14 cup Garlic, chopped 2Sg 14 cup Salt 5g 1\4 tsp
Garlic, chopped Sg 2 tsp Cilantro, chopped 15 g STbsp Cinnamon, ground 1g '/2 tsp
Thai chili, chopped 3g ltsp Salt 6g 1'/2 tsp Coriander, ground 1g '/2 tsp
Mix together, add to food, and marinate for 6 hours . Mix together, add to food, and marinate for12 hours. Mix together, add to food, and marinate
for 6 hours.

Barbecue Marinade Kalbi Marinade

Tomato juice 300 g 300 mL/ 1\4 cups Apple juice 200g 200 mL /Jia cup
Apple cider vinegar 100 g 120 mL / '/2 cup Sugar 75g :Ya cup
Dark brown sugar 50 g STbsp Light soy sauce SOg 40 mL/ 3 Tbsp
Pi menton dulce 5g 2'/2 tsp Gochujang, Korean SOg 3Tbsp
(smoked, sweet paprika) fermented chili paste
Mustard powder 2g ltsp Garlic, chopped 7g 1 Tbsp
Mix together, add to food, and marinate for 12 hours. Mix together, add to food, and marinate for12 hours.

BRINES AND MARINADES 51

MCCURRY POWDER

YIELD: 70g/ 2;3 cup

TIME ESTIMATE: 30 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 2 weeks in an airtight container and up to 2 months when vacuum sealed and refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: coffee grinder, mace blades, Kashmiri chilies (optional), green cardamom pods
USED IN: Mughal Curry Sauce (see page 26), Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings (see page 113)

Toasting spices before you grind them dramatically improves the arate grinder for spices to avoid coffee-flavored spices and vice versa.
flavor, but it is very easy to scorch the spices if you toast them in a If you have a vacuum sealer, consider vacuum sealing all your
dry saute pan over a low burner, so use the oven instead. spice blends, which both protects the aromas and volatile oils and
A coffee mill works as well as a spice grinder, but dedicate a sep- also prevents clumping and absorption of moisture.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Cum in seeds 30g Y. cup 100% @ Preheat the oven to 170 •c / 340 •f.
Coriander seeds 20 g y, cup 67% 0 Combine, and toast in the oven on a baking sheet unti l go lden and
Black peppercorns 20 g 2Y>Tbsp 67% aromatic, 8-10 minutes .
Cinnamon stick, broken 2.7g 1 stick 9% ® Grind to a fine powder in a coffee grinder.
into small pieces
Cloves 2g ltsp 6.7%
Kashmiri chilies (optional) 1g 2large 3.3%
Mace blades, broken into 1g y, tsp 3.3%
small pieces
Green cardamom seeds O.Sg from 1.7%
about6 pods

VAR IAT ION: Vinda loo Sp ice Mix

Doub le the amount of black peppercorns. This variation is used in the lfKashm iri chi lies are unava ilab le, substitute 2 g/ 1 tsp of sweet paprika at
Pork Vindaloo with Naan recipe (see variation on page 95). step 3. Powdered paprika will burn if toasted.

52 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

CHAAT MASALA

YIELD: 60 g/2/Jcup
TIME ESTIMATE: 20 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 2 weeks in an airtight container and up to 2 months when vacuum sealed and refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: coffee grindelj ajowan seeds, amchoolj anardana, kala namak (optional)
GOES WELL WITH: Caramelized Carrot Soup (see page 75), Sous Vide Lobster Tail (see variation on page 130)

Chaat masala is a quintessential spice blend oflndia, where it is
sometimes referred to as a summer sprinkle or a comforting winter
dust. A sprinkle of this pungent combination of dried mango and
spices pairs perfectly with steamed potatoes, grilled chicken or veg-
etables, baked root vegetables, and deep-fried cauliflower. Also, try
dusting it over fresh pineapple, mango, or cucumber.
If you can't find Indian black salt (kala namak), which has a very
strong smell and is actually purplish in color, substitute kosher salt
for it.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Coriander seeds 19 g y, cup 76% CD Preheat the oven to 170 oc / 340 °F.
Cumin seeds 15g 2Tbsp 60% 0 Combine, and toast in the oven on a baking sheet until golden and
Ajowan seeds 3g lY2tsp 12% aromatic, 8-10 minutes.
Black peppercorns 3g ltsp 12%
Dried chilies 1g y, tsp 4%
Indian black salt 25g 2y, Tbsp 100% ® Combine with the toasted spices.
Dried green mango Bg lY.. tsp 32% 0 Grind the mixture to a powder in a coffee grinder.
powder (amchoor) ® Pass the powder through a fine sieve.
Dried pomegranate 4g lY.. tsp 16%
seeds (a nard ana)

GRILLING SPICE MIX

YIELD: 40g/Yz cup

TIME ESTIMATE: 10 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 2 weeks in an airtight container and up to 2 months when vacuum sealed and refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: coffee grindelj porcini powdelj honey powdelj smoked salt

This spice mix works wonders on grilled steaks. Use store-bought mushrooms in a coffee grinder. Smoked salt is available at specialty
porcini powder, or make your own by grinding dried porcini food stores.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Sweet paprika lOg lY2 Tbsp 100% CD Combine.
Porcini powder lOg 1Y2 Tbsp 100% 0 Grind in a coffee grinder.
Honey powder lOg 1 Tbsp 100%
Onion powder 5g 1 Tbsp 50%
Smoked salt 5g lY.. tsp 50%
Black pepper, ground lg Y.. tsp 10%

SPICE MIXES 53
FISH SPICE MIX

YIELD: 120g/ 1 cup

TIME ESTIMATE: 30 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 2 weeks in an airtight container and up to 2 months when vacuum sealed and refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: coffee grinder or mortar and pestle, dried chamomile blossoms, white poppy seeds (optional),
tapioca maltodextrin (N-Zorbit brand, optional)
USED IN : Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon (see page 124)

This tremendously versatile spice mixture is delicious on sole, turbot, any simple chicken preparation. The tapioca maltodextrin absorbs
or any similar fish simply panfried in butter. It is also wonderful on the oils from the nuts and spices and keeps the powder from clump-
roasted winter squash, buttered potatoes, steamed asparagus, and ing. You can find whole chamomile blossoms for sale in tea shops.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Hazelnuts 50 g y, cup 100% <D Preheat the oven to 175 •c/350 •f.
0 Roast the hazelnuts until the skins turn dark brown, 10-12 minutes.
® Rub the nuts with a cloth to remove the skins. Discard the sk ins.
0 Chop the nuts .
Sesame seeds 44g YJ cup 88% ® Toast the sesame seeds in a dry frying pan over medium-high heat,
stirring constantly, until they begin to pop, about 3 minutes.
Coriander seeds 12g 2y, Tbsp 24% ® Toast the coriander seeds in a dry frying pan over medium-high heat,
sti rring co nstantly, until they become go ld en brown and fragrant,
about3 minutes.
0 Crush in a coffee grinder or with a mortar and pestle.
Tapioca maltod extrin 12g 24% ® Comb ine with the haze lnuts, sesame seeds, and coriander seeds, and
( -Zorbit brand), optional grind to a coarse powder in a coffee grinder or mortar and pestle. Work
White poppy seeds lOg 1 Tbsp 20% in batches if necessary.
(optional)
Dried, ground ginger 4g 2 tsp 8%
Salt 4g ltsp 8%
Dried chamomile 2.5g 2Tbsp 5%
blossoms

54 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

AUTUMN SPICE MIX

YIELD: 250 g/ 15;8 cups

TIME ESTIMATE: 22 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 2 weeks in an airtight container and up to 2 months when vacuum sealed and refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: coffee grinder, honey powder, dried orange peel
USED IN: Gingerbread Crust (see variation on page 178)

Honey powder is available at health-food stores and some Asian or make spectacular gingerbread, and makes for a delicious chai when
specialty food markets. A flavorful sugar, such as brown sugar or stirred into tea.
palm sugar, can be used instead . This spice mixture can be used to

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Cinnamon stick, broken 8g 2 sticks 3.3% @ Preheat the oven to 170 ' C/ 340 ' F.
Star anise 3.2g 2-3 pods 1.3% ® Combine, and toast in a dry frying pan, tossing and stirring often, until
Cloves 2.5g 1Y, tsp 1% golden and aromatic, 8-10 minutes.
Fennel seeds 2g 1 tsp 0.8% ® Cool slightly, and grind to a fine powder in a coffee grinder.
Coriander seeds 2g JY, tsp 0.8% @ Pass through a fin e sieve.
Honey powder 240g 1'/a cups 100% ® Mix with the toasted spice powder.
Salt 12g 1 Tbsp 5%
Dried, ground ginger 3g 1Y2 tsp 1.3%
Nutmeg, grated 3g lY21sp 1.3%
Ground mace 1.5g Y, tsp 0.6%
Dried orange peel 1.2g y, tsp 0.5%

CHILl SPICE MIX

YIELD: 260g/ 1 cup

TIME ESTIMATE: 10 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 2 weeks in an airtight container and up to 2 months when vacuum sealed and refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: coffee grinder, honey powder (optional)
USED IN: Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings (see page 113)

This mix is excellent when sprinkled on barbecued chicken. Make it

unsweetened, without the honey powder, to spice up chili or to use
as a dry rub on grilled meats.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Garlic powder 50 g 5Tbsp 100% @ Combine.
Pi menton dulce 50g 7y, Tbsp 100%
(smoked, sweet paprika)
Cinnamon, ground 12g 2Tbsp 24%
Allspice, ground 8g 1 Tbsp 16%
Black pepper, ground 7.5g 1 Tbsp 15%
Cumin, ground 7g 1 Tbsp 14%
Cayenne 6.5g 1 Tbsp 13%
Dark cocoa powder 6g 1 Tbsp 12%
Honey powder (optional) 88g 9Tbsp 176% ® Mix into th e spice powd e r to adjust the seasoning.
Salt (optional) 29 g 3Tbsp 58%

SPICE MIXES 55
FRENCH SCRAMBLED EGGS

YIELD: four to six servings (380 g)

TIME ESTIMATE: 45 minutes overall, including 10 minutes ofpreparation and 35 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately after dispensingfrom the siphon
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup, 500 mL whipping siphon, two cartridges of nitrous oxide
GOES WELL WITH: Steamed Herb Omelet (see page 58), Sous Vide Steak (see page 79)

This ultrarich dish is one of our favorites. We create a texture as nonaerated eggs; see the variation below. Serve the eggs as a break-
smooth as custard, having no lumps whatsoever, by using an immer- fast entree, as a filling for omelets, or as a side dish for the ultimate
sion blender. Then we aerate the eggs in a whipping siphon to make steak and eggs.
them foamy and light. We also love the pudding-like texture of

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Eggs 200g 4large 100% @ Preheat a water bath to 72 •c / 162 •F.
Egg yolks 60 g 3-4yolks 30% 0 Mix all ingredients, and blend until smooth by using a whisk or
Unsalted butter, melted 60g 65 mL/ 4y, Tbsp 30% immersion blender.
Whole milk 60g 60 ml / Y.. cup 30% ® Place the mixture in a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from
Salt the bag by using the water-displacement method (see page 6), and
4g ltsp 2%
seal it.
0 Cook so us vide until just set, about 35 minutes.
® Transfer to a bowl, and puree until smooth using an immersion blender.
® Pour into a whipping siphon, charge with two cartridges of nitrous
oxide, and dispense.

TO MAKE AHEAD
After step 5, place cooked eggs in a bag or siphon, and ho ld in a 55 •c / 131 • F water bath for up to
1 hour. Continue with step 6 to serve .

VARIATIO S
Scrambled Egg Pudding
Prefer a velvety, pudding- like texture that's not
aerated? Increase the temperature in step 1 to
74 •c / 165 •F, and decrease the cooking time in
step 4 to about 30 minutes. This yie lds a firmer
texture. After step 5, spoon the pureed eggs
from the bowl, and serve immediately.
O live Oil Scramb led Eggs
Increase the egg yo lks to a total of 80 g/
5- 6 yo lks, and rep lace the butter with extra-
virgi n o live oil. We use this as a fi lli ng in
our Espagnole ome let (see variation on
the next page).
Mini Egg Cups
Fill the bottom of warm ramekins with Sh iitake
Marmalade (see page 64). Top with the
scrambled-egg foam. Garnish with grated
cheddar or Gruyere. This makes a terrific
amuse-bouche or snack for special guests.

56 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

OMELET FILLINGS

Eggs pair well with so many flavors that the variety of tasty filling French Scrambled Eggs and chives in the Steamed Herb Omelet
combinations for omelets is almost infinite. The classic combina- recipe on the next page. The Raviolo filling can be served open-faced
tions below have stood the test of time. They are still among our or sandwiched between two omelet sheets. Quantities shown below
favorites. Try these fillings, or others you develop, in place of the yield four servings.

Florentine Ome let Filling

Creamed Spinach 140 g y, cup
see page82
Ricotta cheese 80 g STbsp
Parmigiano-Reggiano, 16g 4 Tbsp
grated
lemon zest, grated 1.6g Y2tsp

Espagnole Omelet Filling

Tomato Sofrito 140 g y, cup
see variation on page 32

Olive Oil Scrambled Eggs 80 g l4 cup

see variation on the
previous page

Chives, minced, or Bg 2Tbsp

seasoned herbs

Alsatian Omelet Filling

Pressure-Caramelized 140g y, cup
Onions
see page 45
Muenster or Camembert BOg 2 cups
cheese, rind removed and
cut into a long strip
Black Forest ham, 48g Y2cup
julienned
Thyme leaves 1.6g y, tsp

Raviolo Omelet Filling

Eggs, cooked so us vide, 4eggs
whites removed
see steps 1-3, page 62
Bacon lardons, crispy 32g Y., cup
Chives, minced Sg 2Tbsp
Pecorino cheese, grated 16g 4 Tbsp
Black pepper, coarse ly 1.6g y, tsp
ground

BREAKFAST EGGS 57
STEAMED HERB OMELET
YIELD: four appetizer-size omelets (40 g each plus filling)
TIME ESTIMATE: 40 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: omelet sheets keep for 2 days when refrigerated; serve assembled omelets immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: nonstick frying pan (20 em/ 8 in) with metal lid or oven-safe glass lid

We think this is the perfect omelet: it is tender and delicate, with a
pure, fresh egg flavor. Our goal here is to steam the omelet at a pre-
cise temperature. A combi oven or water-vapor oven is made to do
exactly that, but you can achieve similar results in a home oven. The
trick is to heat the omelet evenly while avoiding evaporation and
browning. The best way we've found to do that is to cook it in a skil-
let topped with a hot, metal lid on an oven rack that is perfectly level.
Although this omelet recipe is made only with eggs and cream,
modern versions almost always contain a filling of some kind; some
of our favorite combinations are listed on the previous page.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Eggs, blended 150 g 3-4 eggs 100% 0 Preheat the oven to 175 oc / 350 °F. Once the oven is hot, place the oven-
Heavy cream 15g 15 mL / 1 Tbsp 10% safe lid to a nonstick, 20 em I 8 in frying pan in th e oven to preheat for
about15 minutes.
Egg yolk 12g 1 yo lk 8%
Salt 2g Y2 tsp 1.3%
0 Blend thoroughly by using a whisk or immers ion blender. Allow any
foam to dissipate, or use a spoon to skim it from the surface.
Cooking spray as needed ® Spray the bottom of the frying pan with a thin film of cooking.spray.
0 Pour one quarter of the egg mixture into the frying pan .
® Place the hot lid on the pan, and put it in the oven . Cook until the eggs
set, about 6 minutes.
® While the eggs cook, line a baking sheet with parch ment paper, and
spray it with cooking spray.
0 Slide the cooked omelet onto the baking sheet. Leave the lid in the oven
while you prepare the next ome let.
® Repeat steps 3-7 three tim es with the remaining egg mixture . After the
first one, the ome lets will cook in the warm pan in about 3 minutes.
® Cover the ome lets on the baking sheet with another sheet of sprayed
parchment, a nd place them in the oven for1Y,-2Y2 minutes to reheat.
Scrambled Egg Pudding, 200 g Y, cup 133% @ Divide the warm scramb led eggs evenly among the omelet sheets.
warm (optio nal) @ Fold the edges of each omelet carefully over the filling .
see variation on page 56

Chives, minced 5g 2Tbsp 3% @ Sprink le with the chives, and serve immediately.

TO MAKE AHEAD ENTREE-SIZE OMELET IF YOU HAVE A COMBI OVEN

After step 8, cover the baking sheet with oil-
rubbed plastic wrap, and store it in the refrig-
e rator for up to 2 days. When you're ready to
serve the omelets, preheat the oven to 175 °( /
350 °F. Remove the plastic wrap from the
baking sheet, and reheat the omelets for
1'/:z-2'/:z minutes . Continue with step 10.
We serve these omelets as an appetizer, which
is how we get away with using so few eggs to
feed four people. To make an omelet large
enough to serve as an entree, use al l of the
egg mixture in one 30 cm / 12 in pan. Cook 3-4
minutes longer, until just set.
If you have access to a professional or home
combi oven, set the oven to full steam at 82 oC/
180 °F. Follow steps 2-4, cover the frying pan
with plastic wrap, and then cook the ome let
for10 minutes. Continue with step 10.

58 MODERNI ST CUISINE AT HOME

1 Preheat the oven to 175 •c / 350 • f. When the oven reaches its set tem-
perature, put the lid of a nonstick, 20 cm / 8 in fryi ng pan into the oven
to preheat for about 15 minutes. Choose a lid that is oven-safe and fits
snugly on the pan.

2 Blend the whole eggs, cream, yolks, and sa lt thorou ghly by using a
whisk or imm ersion blender. If a foam ri ses on the surface, allow it
to diss ipate, or skim it off with a spoon.

3 Coat the bottom of the pan with a th in fi lm of coo ki ng spray.

4 Pour one quarter ofthe egg mi xture into the frying pan. It wi ll spread
into a thin layer.

5 Cover the pan with th e hot lid, and put th e covered pan into the oven.
Cook the eggs unt il th ey set, about 6 minutes. The pan should sit
leve l on the oven rack. Use pi eces offolded aluminum foil as shims
if needed to ensure a flat, eve nly cooked omelet.

6 While the eggs are baking, line a baki ng sheet with parchment paper,
and spray the paper with a light coating of cook ing spray.

7 Slide the cooked omelet from th e pan onto the baking sheet. Return
the lid to the ove n whi le yo u prepare th e next omelet.

8 Repeat steps 3-7 th ree tim es w ith the remaining egg mixture. Once th e
pan is warm from cooking the first omelet, the remaining omelets wi ll
require just 3 minutes or so each to cook.

9 Cover the omelets on the baking sheet with anoth er sheet of parch-
ment paper coated with cooking spray, and place th em into the oven
to reheat for 1 ~-2Y2 minu tes.

10 Divide th e warm scrambled eggs, if using, even ly among the omelet

sheets. You can add or substitute any other fi lling at this point.
Sp rin kle the fi lling with the chives.

11 Use a thin-edged spatula to fold the edges of each omelet carefully

over its filling.

12 Sprinkle with the chives, and se rve the omelets imm ed iate ly.

BREAKFAST EGGS 59
 STRIPED MUSHROOM OMELET
YIELD: jour appetizer-size omelets (140 g each)
TIME ESTIMATE: 1 hour overall
STORAGE NOTES: omelet sheets keep for 2 days when refrigerated; serve assembled omelets immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: advanced (level of effort)
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS : two silicone discs, 15 em I 6 in across, cut from a larger mat; 20 em I 8 in nonstick frying pan
with metal lid or oven-sajeglass lid; pastry comb with 3 mml ~in teeth; albumin powder
(powdered egg whites)

Once you get the hang of making these omelets, you won't want to must lie flat and seal tightly in the base of your nonstick frying pan.
serve your special guests anything else. The result is both beautiful Make sure the mat is silicone only; do not cut mats that contain
and delicious; we promise it is worth the effort. The silicone disc fiberglass, such as Silpat brand mats.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Eggs, blended 150 g 3-4 eggs 100% CD Preheat the oven to 175 "C/ 350 "F. Once the oven is hot, place the oven-
Heavy cream 15g 15 mL / 1 Tbsp 10% safe lid of a 20 em I 8 in nonstick fry ing pan in the oven to preheat for
Egg yolk, blended about 15 minutes .
12g 1 yolk 8%
Salt 2g y, tsp 1.3%
0 Line a baking sheet with parchment, and spray it with cooking spray.
® Blend thoroughly by using a whisk or immersion blender. Allow any
foam that appears to dissipate, or use a spoon to skim it from the surface.
Mushroom Puree 100 g %cup 67% 0 Whisk together thoroughly to create the mushroom base.
see page 63
® Spread one quarter of the mushroom base onto a round silicone mat
Egg yolks 40g 3 yolks 27% in a layer2 mm /Y•• in thick.
Heavy cream lOg 10 mL / 2 tsp 7% ® Pull a pastry comb through the mushroom base to create even lines
Albumin powder 8.8g 5 tsp 5.8% across the mat .
Sa lt 2g y, tsp 1.3%
Neutral-tasting oil or as needed 0 Coat the pan with a thin layer of oil, and carefully place the mushroom-
cooking spray striped silicone disc into the pan.
® Pour one quarter of the omelet base over the back of a spatula or large
spoon and onto the lines of mushroom base.
® Place the hot lid on the pan, and bake the omelet sheet in the oven
until the egg sets, about 6 minutes.
@) Wh ile one sheet is baking, repeat steps 5 and 6 to prepare strips of
mushroom base on a second, cool silicone disc.
@ Remove the pan from the oven, lift out the silicone disc, and cool the
cooked omelet sheet slightly.
@ Peel the ome let sheet carefully from the silicone, and transfer it to the
prepared baking sheet.
@ Repeat steps 7-12 three times with the remaining ingredients; skip
step 10 the last time. After the first omelet sheet, the remaining omelet
sheets will cook in the warm pan in about 3 minutes.
French Scramb led Eggs, 200 g 2cups 133% @ Top the omelet sheets with a second piece of sprayed parchment.
warmed Reheat in a 175 "C/ 350 "Foven for1Y2-2 Y2 minutes.
see page 56
@ Lay the omelet sheets stripe-side down, and divide the French
Shiitake Marmalade, as needed scrambled eggs and shiitake marmalade evenly among them.
warmed
@ Fold the edges ofthe omelet sheets carefully over their fillings, and
see page 64
brush the omelets with clarified butter. Serve immediately.
Clarified, unsalted butter as needed
see page37

TO MAKE AHEAD
After step 12, cover the baking sheet with plastic wrap, and refrigerate the
omelet sheets for up to 2 days. To reheat, remove the plastic, and warm in
a 175 "C/ 350 "Foven for1Y,-2y, minutes .

60 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

1 Preheat the oven to 175 •c / 350 •F. Once the oven reaches its set
temperature, place the oven-safe lid of a 20 cm / 8 in nonstick frying
pan into the oven to preheat for about 15 minutes.
9 Cover the pan with the hot lid, place it in the oven, and bake until the
egg sets, about 6 minutes. The pan should sit level on the oven rack;
use folded pieces of aluminum foil as shims, if needed, to ensure that
the omelet is flat and cooks evenly.

2 Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, and spray it with cooking
spray.
10 Whi le one sheet is baking, repeat steps 5 and 6 to prepare strips of
mushroom base on a second, cool si licone disc.

3 Blend the whole eggs, cream, yo lks, and sa lt thoroughly; use a whisk
or immersion blender. If foam rises on the surface, allow it to dissipate,
or use a spoon to skim it off. This is the omelet base. 11 Remove the pan from the oven, li ft out the sili cone disc, and coo l
the omelet sheet slightly.

4 Whisk together the mushroom puree, yolks, cream, albumin powder,

and salt thoroughly to make the mushroom base. 12 Peel the ome let sheet from the mat, and transfer it to the prepared
baking sheet.

5 Spread one quarter of the mushroom base onto a round si licone mat
to form an even layer 2 mm / y,.
in thick . We use an offset spatula to 13 Repeat steps 7-12 three times with the remaining ingredients; skip
step 10 the last time. Do not stack the omelets . After the first omelet
do this. sheet has cooked, the remaining three ome let sheets will cook in
the warm pan in about3 minutes.

6 Pull a pastry comb having3 mm / Vain teeth through the mushroom

mixture to create straight, parallel lines across the mat. You may want
to stabilize the silicone mat by using double-sided tape to stick it to the
counter- just make sure to remove the tape before cooking. If the lines
are not straight, simply scrape off the mushroom mixture, remake the
layer, and try again.
14 Top the ome let sheets with another piece of sprayed parchment.
Place the bak ing sheet in the oven for1 V2-2Y, minutes to reheat all
of the omelets at once.
15 Lay the omelet sheets stripe-side down, and divide the French
scrambled eggs and shiitake marmalade among them .

7 Rub or spray a thin layer of oil onto the pan, and carefully place the
silicone disc with the stripes of mushroom base into the pan. The oil
shou ld create an a irtight sea l between the si licone mat and the pan,
thus preventing any egg from seeping under.
16 Fold the edges of the omelet sheets over their fillings, flip them
seam-side down, and brush them with clarified butter.

8 Pour one quarter of the omelet base over t he back of a spoo n to flood
ge ntly over the mushroom base. The spoon helps prevent the flow
from smearing the lines.

BREAKFAST EGGS 61
EGGS SUNNY-SIDE UP
YIELD: four servings (400 g/ 4 eggs)
TIME ESTIMATE : B4 hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 50 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: egg whites keep for 1 day when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPE C IAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup, four small nonstick frying pans (10-12 em/ 4-5 in),foil covers cut to fit frying pans

Cooking an egg sunny-side up to perfection poses an inherent
problem: the yolk and the white reach their ideal textures at
different temperatures . Our solution is to cook the yolk separately
from the white and to then reassemble the two parts just before
serving. That way, the yolk is like jam and the white is still
buttery.
We love the pudding-like consistency of a yolk cooked at 67 oc I
153 °F. For a more traditional runny yolk, cook it instead at 62 oc I
144 oF, but cook an extra egg or two, because yolks are very fragile at
this temperature, and you might lose one. Raise the temperature to
70 oc I 158 op to make a perfectly spherical yolk having a fudge-like
consistency. It's up to you.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Eggs 200 g 4-5 large 67% 0 Preheat a water bath to 67 °C/ 153 °F, and preheat the oven to 160 oc /
320 °F. Cut four foil lids just slightly larger in diameter than the rims of
four10 -12 em / 4-5 in nonstick frying pans .
0 Cook th e whole eggs so us vide for 40 minutes.
® Shell the eggs, and ca refully cl ea n off the whites to isolate the yo lks.
Neutral-tasting oil 150g 160 mL / Vo cup 50% 0 Keep the egg yolks wa rm for up to 1 hour, if needed, by holding them
or clarified, unsalted in a rigid co ntaine r that is filled with oil or butter and then placed in
butter (optional) a 60 °( / 140 °Fwater bath .
see page37
Egg white 300g JY, cups / 100% ® Blend by using a whisk or imm ersion ble nder, and then strain. Allow
10 whites any surface foam to dissi pate, or skim it fro m th e surface.
Heavy cream 90 g 100 mL / 3/a cu p 30%
Salt 3g :Y.. tsp 1%
Cooking spray as needed ® Coat the four pans with a thin film of cooki ng spray.
0 Place one quarter of the egg white mixture into each of the pans.
® Cover th e pans with the foil lid s.
® Place the pans in the oven, and bake until the egg whites are just set,
a bout 12 minutes.
@ Slide the cooked egg whites gently onto individual plates .
@ Scoop a small divot out of each egg white to hold the yolk.
Brown butter1 warm 30g 30 mL / 2 Tbsp 10% @ Place an egg yo lk in each divot.
see page 37
@ Drizzle the brown butter over the eggs, and serve them imm ed iately.

TO MAKE AHEAD VARIATION: Deviled Eggs

The egg whites can be made up to 24 hours in advance. As th e egg wh ites For a modern take on deviled eggs, whip the egg whites with vinegar, oil,
bake in step 9, lay a piece of parchm e nt paper in a baking sheet, and mustard, and herbs to make a vinaigrette. Serve it as a dressing for the
spray it with cooking oi l. Arrange the cooked whites on it, and coverthem cooked whole yo lks.
with another sheet of sprayed parchment pape r. Cover the baking sheet
with plastic wrap, and refrigerate it. To reheat the egg whites, remove the
plastic, and warm them in a 135 °C/ 275 °Foven for 5-6 minutes. Time th e
cook ing of the yo lk s acco rdingly.

62 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

1 Preheat a water bath to 67 · c / 153 •r, and preheat the oven to 160 •c ;
320 •r. Cut four foil lids just slightly la rger in diameter than the rims of 6 Spray a thin coat of cooking spray overthe bottom of the four pans.

four 10-12 em / 4-5 in nonstick fryi ng pans.

7 Pour one quarter of the egg white mixture into each of the pans.

2 Cook the whole eggs so us vide for 40 minutes.

8 Cover th e pans with the foil lids. Do n't let th e foil wrap und e r the
bottom .

3 Shell each egg, a nd cl ea n off the whites to iso late the perfectly cooked
yo lk. Dip o r rin se th e yo lk in water to clean it. Be ve ry ge ntl e with the
yo lk: if yo u puncture the membrane, it will burst.
9 Place the pa ns in the oven, a nd bake unti l the eggs are just set, a bout
12 minutes. The pans sho uld be level on the oven rack. Use folded
pi eces of aluminum foil as shims, if need ed, so that the white is even

4 Keep the egg yo lks warm for up to 1 hou r, if needed, by holding them in
a rigid conta in e r that is fi ll ed with ne utral-tasting oil or clarified butter
in thickness.

and then placed in a 60 · c / 140 •r wate r bath. This technique prevents

a sk in from forming over the yo lk. 10 Slide the cooked egg whites carefu ll y onto individua l plates.

5 Blend the egg whites, crea m, and salt, and then strai n the mixture.
Skim off any foam that forms on the surface, o r allow it to diss ipate
11 Use a ring cutter or a spoon to scoop a sma ll divot from each
egg white.

on its own.

12 Place one drained, warm egg yo lk in each divot.

13 Drizzle warm brown butte r over the eggs, a nd serve them

immed iately.
MUSHROOM PUREE
YIELD: 200g/%cup
TIME ESTIMATE: 45 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 1 month when frozen
LEVEL OF D IFFICULTY: easy

This puree is versatile, having many uses in addition to making
omelets. We like to serve it as a garnish for poached fish or chicken;
you can also transform it into a simple, yet intense, cream of mush-
room soup (see variation below).
Shiitake and portobello mushrooms are generally easy to find
year-round, but we substitute other varieties as they come into
season. Criminis, morels, chanterelles, and porcinis make flavorful
substitutes for the shiitakes. Black trumpets are preferable to porto-
hellos when you can find them. If you like the flavor of truffle oil,
add a few drops at step 4.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Shi itake mushroom caps, 250g 4\IJ cups 100% @ Saute the mushrooms until golden brown, about10 minutes.
thin ly sli ced
Unsa lted butter 30 g 3 Tbsp 12%
Shal lots, minced 50 g 'A cup / 2 shallots 20% 0 Add, a nd cook over low heat, stirring occasiona lly, until the sha ll ots
Portobello mushroom 20g from1large 8% a re very te nd er, about 20 minutes. The portobello gi lls wi ll da rken
gills, spoo ned from the mi xture.
the cap
Mushroom jus o r water 165g 165 mL/ 3/<1 cup 66% ® Stir in, increase to medium heat, and simmerfor 1 minute.
see page 15
0 Puree in a ble nder until smooth.
® Pass through a fine sieve.
Salt 3g :Y,. tsp 1.2% ® Season the puree, and serve it warm.

VARIATION: Cream of Mushroom Soup

Mushroom Puree 200 g v. cup Stir together the puree, jus, cream, a nd miso in
from recipe above a pot, a nd bring to a simmer. Season with salt,
Mushroom jus 165 g 165 mL /o/s cup a nd garnish with brioche cro utons or sauteed
see page 15 mu shrooms.
Heavy cream 100 g 110 mL/ y, cup
White miso 5g ltsp
Salt to taste
Brioche croutons, as needed
cut into small cubes,
and fried in bacon fat

BREAKFAST EGGS 63
SHIITAKE MARMALADE

YIELD: 300g/ 1 cup

TIME ESTIMATE: 40 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 1 month when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy

This condiment transforms the intense umami flavor of caramelized substitute seasonal mushrooms such as criminis, morels, chanterelles,
shiitake mushrooms into an unctuous marmalade. Fold in some and porcinis. For a different flavor, replace the soy sauce with our
grain mustard, and serve it with steak, or spread the marmalade on rich Brown Chicken Jus (see page 16).
toast topped with grilled sweet onions. When they are available,

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Shiitake mushroom caps 300g 5Yo cups 100% CD Pulse the mushrooms in a food processor until they are minced but
not pureed.
Unsalted butter 60g 4 Tbsp 20% 0 Melt in a frying pan, and add the mushrooms.
® Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned
and dry, 15-18 minutes.
Shallots, minced 60g YJcup 20% 0 Stir into the mushroom mixture, and cook until tender, 8-10 minutes.
Water 100g 100 mL /Yo cup 33% ® Add to the pan, and stir to combine.
Soy sauce 36g 30 mL / 2 Tbsp 12% ® Simmer until thick but still fluid, about1 minute.
Honey 4g ltsp 1.3%
Chives, thinly sliced lOg Y.. cup 3.3% 0 Fold in just before serving.
Tarragon, minced Sg YzTbsp 1.7%
Salt to taste ® Season the marmalade, and serve it warm.

The mushrooms should be processed just until they When the mushrooms are brown and the shallots are You can refrigerate the marmalade after step 6. When you
are minced. Use the pulse feature to ensure that the tender but not brown, it is time to add the water, soy are ready to serve it, reheat it in a pan, fold in the chives
mushrooms do not become a paste or puree. sauce, and honey. and tarragon, and season it with salt.

Savory marmalades
The concept of a savory marmalade may seem odd at first, but marmalade
is an excellent form for a flavorful warm condiment. Try making one with
just minced onions and shallots seasoned generously with thyme and black
pepper. You can make a marmalade of minced bacon and apple by adding
a bit of reduced apple juice or maple syrup to serve as a binder.

64 MODERNIST CUI SINE AT HOME

RASPBERRY GAZPACHO
YIELD: jour servings (450 g/2 cups)
TIME ESTIMATE: 1Y-1 hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 1 hour unattended (optional)
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 2 days when refrigerated; raspberry syrup keeps for up to 6 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: so us vide setup, piquillo peppers, xanthan gum (optional)

Showcase the best fruit of the season with this refreshing twist
on gazpacho. Ajo blanco, one of the original forms of gazpacho, was
made from white bread, garlic, almonds, and grapes, rather than the
tomatoes used most frequently today for the base.
David Kinch, chef at Manresa in Los Gatos, California, gave us
the idea to use strawberries in place of tomatoes. We have extended
this idea to raspberries. Cherries, peaches, nectarines, and apples
make equally delicious gazpachos when those fruits are at their peak.
The raspberry syrup made in the first four steps of this recipe is
optional; you can use it to adjust the consistency and sweetness of
the soup. The technique for extracting raspberry juice sous vide,
however, works well with all berries. The resulting brightly colored,
clear syrup can also be used to garnish a light dessert or stirred into
sparkling white wine for a refreshing cocktail resembling a kir royale.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Raspberries, rinsed 225 g 2 cups 80% 0 If making the optio nal raspberry syrup, pre heat a water bath to 65 •c ;
(optional) 149 •F. Otherwise, skip to step 5.
Sugar (optional) 25g 2Tbsp 9% 0 Toss together. Place in a zip-top bag, and use the water-displacement
method (see page 6) to remove as much air as possib le. Seal the bag.
® Cook so us vid e for1 hour.
0 Stra in without pressing to obta in the raspberry syrup. Measure 35 g
for use in step 7.
Raspberries, rin sed 280g 2Y.. cups 100% ® Combine in a blender, and puree until smooth.
Cucumber, peeled, 70g Yz cup 25% @ Pass the puree through a sieve.
seeded, and thinly sli ced
Piquillo peppers (canned) 57 g Yz cup 20%
Sweet o nion, thinly sliced 57g Yz cup 20%
Extra-virgin olive oil 25g 30 mL / 2Tbsp 9%
White balsamic vinegar lOg 10 mL / 2Ys tsp 3.6%
Balsamic vin egar Sg 6 mL / lY• tsp 1.8%
Garli c clove, thinly sli ced 2g y, tsp 0.7%
Xantha n gum (optional) 0.7g 0.25%
Raspberry syrup, 35g 35 mL / 2Tbsp 13% 0 Add the raspberry syrup (optional), season the soup, and serve it ch ill ed.
fro m above (optional)
Lime juice to taste
Salt to taste
Black pepper to taste

1 If you are making the raspberry syrup (which is optional), preheat a

water bath to 65 •c / 149 •F. If omitting the syrup, sk ip ahead to step 5. 5 Combin e the fresh raspberries, cucu mber, peppers, onion, ol ive oil,
vinegars, ga rlic, and xanthan gum (optional) in a blender, and puree
until smooth.

2 Toss the raspberries in sugar, and then use the water-d isp lacement
method to seal them together in a zip-top bag while excl uding as much
air as possible. 6 Pass the puree through a sieve.

3 Cook the raspberries sous vide for 1 ho ur. 7 Seaso n the soup with the raspberry syrup (optional), lim e juice, salt,
and pepper. Add more syrup to thin the puree or to sweeten a tart
soup . Add the lime juice to brighten a sweet so up.

4 Strain the cooked raspberries, without pressing, to make a clear, thin

syru p. Measure 35 g for use in step 7. Use any extra syrup as a topping
for yogurt or panca kes, or freeze it for up to 6 month s.

SALADS AND COLD SOUPS 65

FRUIT MINESTRONE

YIELD: four servings (400 g /2 cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 4 hours overall, including 1 hour ofpreparation and 3 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: advanced (complexity of timing and assembly)
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: vacuum sealer with marinating attachment, juicer, malic acid

Like any good minestrone, this fruity dessert soup is best when made
with ingredients at their seasonal peak. At our cooking lab, we make
a very fancy version from cucumber sorbet, vacuum-infused fruits,
and shards of berries that we freeze in liquid nitrogen and then shat-
ter. This recipe is less technically demanding, albeit one of the more
complex in this book. Don't be intimidated by the number of steps;
it's easier to assemble than it looks, and many of the components
can be made in advance and used in other ways.
Serve the soup in chilled bowls, and pour the broth at the table.
You can chill the minestrone even more by adding a scoop of a high-
quality, store-bought fruit sorbet such as lychee, raspberry, or passion
fruit. If you don't have time to make the candied beans, use Chinese
red beans cooked in syrup, which you can find at Asian markets or
other specialty food stores.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Forthe cand ied beans:
Water 1.5 kg 1.5 L/ 6'!3 cups 300% CD Comb ine in a large pot, stirto dissolve fully, and then slowly bring to
Sugar 1 kg 5Ya cups 200% a boil to make a syrup.
Cannellini beans 200g 1 cup 40% 0 Place in a pot with 500 gofthe syrup, and simmer over medium-low
(canned), drained, rinsed, heat for 30 minutes.
and cleaned of any skins ® Pour off the syrup, replace with 500 g offresh syrup, and simmer the
or broken pieces beans for another 30 minutes.
0 Repeat step 3 twice more for a total simm ering time of about 2 hours.
The beans shou ld turn translucent and become fudge-like .
® Coo l the beans in the remaining syrup, and refrigerate them.
For the strawberry broth:
Strawberries, washed 500g 3cups 100% 0 Process through a juicer.
and hulled 0 Strain.
Sugar 50 g Y.. cup 10% ® Stir into the strawberry juice until dissolved.
Lime juice to taste ® Season with the lime juice to make a broth, and refrigerate it.
For the infused rhubarb:
Fresh red rhubarb 100 g 1 large stalk 20% @ Peel the skin from the rhubarb, and reserve the peelings.
@ Slice the peeled rhubarb into 6 mm / Y.. in pieces.
Sugar 100g 1f2cup 20% @ Comb in e in a sma ll pot, stir to dissolve, and bring to a boil over medium-
Water 100g 100 mL/'Is cup 20% high heat to make a syrup.
Malic acid 2g 0.4% @ Pour the warm syrup over the rhubarb slices and reserved rhubarb skins,
and vacuum seal together in a rigid conta iner (see page 53 in the main
vo lume).
@ Refrigerate until cold, at least 1 hour. Drain and discard the skins. The
syrup may be saved for another use.
For the cucumber rolls :
English cucumber 150 g 11arge 30% @ Slice lengthwise, as thinly as possible, on a mandoline, to form even ly
sized, rectangular sheets of cucumber. Stop when you reach the seeds.
@ Roll up the sheets so that the gree n edges are exposed. Store the rolls,
covered, in the refrigerator.
To assemble:
Cucumber rolls, from above 8-12 rolls @ Arrange two or three cucumber rolls in the center offour chi ll ed bowls.
Candied cannellini beans, 24 beans @ Distribute the beans, fruit, rhubarb, a nd mint leaves evenly among
from above the bowls.
Infused rhubarb slices, 8-12 slices
from above
Kumquats, sliced 8 slices
Raspberries, halved 24g 8 berries 4.8%
Blueberries, halved 16g 8 berries 3.2%
Mint leaves 4g 16small 0.8%
Strawberry broth, 250g 260 mL / lVa cups 50% @ Serve immediately by pouring the strawberry broth eve nly into the
from above bowls at tableside .

66 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

1 Comb ine the sugar and water for the cand ied beans in a la rge pot, and
stir to dissolve fully. Then slowly bring the mixture to a boil to form
a syrup. Sugar crysta ls may form in the syrup if the sugar is not ful ly
dissolved before boiling.
2 Pick through the beans to find and discard any broken pieces or sk ins,
and then place t hem in a pot with 500 g of the syrup. Simmer over
med ium-l ow heat for 30 minutes.
3 Pour the syrup off the beans, and replace with 500 g of fresh syrup.
Simmer the beans for another 30 minutes.
4 Repeat step 3 two more times, for a tota l simme ring time of about
2 hours . The beans should turn translucent and fudge-like. Th is is a
variation on the technique used to make prized European sweets such
as marron glace (candied chestnuts) and sugared fruits.
5 Cool the beans in the remaining syrup, and then refrigerate them.
6 Use a juicer to extract juice from the strawberries.
7 Strain the juice with a fine sieve to remove seeds and extra pulp.
8 Stir the sugar into the strai ned strawberry juice until it has dissolved.
9 Season the sweetened strawberry juice w ith lime juice to taste, and
then refrigerate the broth. You may need a li ttle more or less sugar or
lime juice, depending on the sweetness of the berries.
10 Peel the skin from the rhubarb . If your rhubarb is green or muddy-
co lored, discard the sk ins; otherwise, save the reddish skin for use
in step 13: it adds a more intense color to the infused slices.
VARIATIONS
Strawberry Panna Cotta
At step 3 in the recipe for Raspberry Panna Cotta (see page 175), sub-
stitute strawberry juice for the raspberry puree. Serve with vacu um -
compressed strawberries (see page 7), black peppercorns, and thyme.
Cheese Course
Serve Stilton or goat cheese with vacu um -compressed strawbe rri es
(see page 7) and mint leaves. Optionally, add candied canne llin i beans
(from steps 2-5).
SALADS AND COLD SOUPS
11 Slice the pee led rhubarb into pieces 6 mm /'.4 in long.
12 Comb ine the sugar, water, and malic acid in a sma ll pot, sti r until
dissolved, and then bring to a boil over medium-high heat to make
a syrup.
13 Place the sl iced rhubarb and reserved sk ins in a rigid vacuum
container, pour in the warm syrup, and vacuum seal it.
14 Refrigerate the rhubarb until co ld, at least 1 hour. Drain and discard
the sk ins. You can reserve the syrup for another use.
15 Slice the cucumber lengthwise on a mandoline, using the th innest
setting avai lable, to make 8-12 rectang ular sheets of cucumber.
Try to make the sli ces even in size, and avoid the seedy part of the
cucumber.
16 Lift the short edge of each cucumbe r sheet, and rol l it up. The
green edges shou ld be exposed. Store the sheets, covered,
in the refrigerator.
17 When you are ready to assemble the minestrone, ch ill four bowls,
and then arrange two or three cucumber rolls in the ce nter of
each bowl.
18 Scatter the beans, fruit, rhubarb, and mint leaves eve nl y amo ng
the bowls in a decorative pattern. Tweeze rs are a handy tool for
this ste p.
Pour the strawberry broth even ly into the bowls at tab leside.
19 We use a decorative pitcher for serving the broth.
Fruit Sa lad
Combine slices of kumquats, blueberries, and raspberries with vacuum-
compressed strawberries (see page 7), vacuum-infused rhubarb from
steps 10-14, cucumbe r rolls from steps 15-16, and mint leaves.
Strawberry juice with Green App le Foam
To make a refres hing su mm er beverage, top fresh strawberry juice (from
steps 6-9) with a foam made from fresh green app le juice. Pour the app le
juice into a whipping sip hon, cha rge the siphon with two cartridges of
nitrous ox id e, shake vigorously for 5-10 seconds, and then dispense the
app le foam into cups of ju ice (see page 3).
67
MODERNIST VICHYSSOISE

YIELD: jour servings (950 g/ 4 cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 6 hours overall, including 5 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: advanced (special ingredient)
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup, vacuum sealer, diastatic malt powder

The secret to velvety-smooth potatoes is diastatic malt powder,
an ingredient available from specialty baking- or brewing-supply
stores, that converts potato starches into sugars and leaves no trace
of gumminess or graininess. Excessive cream or milk is no longer
needed; in fact, you can make this recipe with no cream at all. The
main liquid is pure leek jus, squeezed from whole, cooked leeks.
Delicate strands of blanched leek and potato make an elegant and
flavorful garnish.
If you don't acquire the enzyme-rich malt powder, pass the pota-
toes through a fine sieve after step 4, and then continue with step 10.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 1 kg 1 L/ 4Y. cups 200% CDPreheat a water bath to 52 ' C/ 126 ' F.
Yukon Gold potatoes, 500g 32/3 cups 100% 0 Place in a large pot, and bring to a boil.
peeled and cut into ® Reduce the heat, and simmer the potatoes until very tender,
2.5 cm / 1 in pieces 30- 40 minutes.
Salt 15g Stsp 3% 0 Drain .
Sugar lOg 2tsp 2%
Diastatic malt powder Sg 1% ® Stir into the cooked potatoes.
(King Arthur Flour brand) ® Blend the warm potato mixture in a blender until smooth and sticky.
0 Place in a zip-top bag. Use the water-displacement method (see
page 6) to remove as much air as possible from the bag, and seal it.
® Cook sous vide for 30 minutes.
® Transfer the potato puree to a pot, and heat it to at least 75 ' C/ 167 ' F.
@ Cool the puree, and chill it over an ice bath or in the refrigerator.
Leeks, white parts only, 1 kg 4- S ieeks 200% @ Increase the water bath temperature to 90 ' C/ 194 ' F.
washed and halved @ Vacuum seal the leeks.
lengthwise
@ Cook sous vide for 2 hours.
@ Squeeze in a strainer to collect as much jus as possib le; discard the pu lp.
Potato puree, from above 400 g 1:Y., cups 80% @ Stir together, cool, and refrigerate the soup until fully chilled .
Leek jus, from above 400 g 400 mL / P/3 cups 80%
Heavy cream 100g 110 mL / Y2 cup 20%
Sa lt 12g 1 Tbsp 2.4%
Leeks, white parts only, 25g Y2 leek 5% @ Bring a pot of water to a boil, and arrange an ice-water bath alongside.
finely julienned @ Blanch the leeks in boiling water for 5 seconds, and then plunge them
in the ice water, and drain.
Yukon Gold potato, 25 g 1 who le 5% @ Blanch the potatoes in boiling water for1 minute, and then plunge them
peeled and finely julienned in the ice water, and drain.
Ch ives, th inly sliced 7g 3 Tbsp 1.4% @ Toss together with the drained strips of leek and potato to make the
Ol ive oil Sg 6 mL / 1Y. tsp 1% garnish. Place a small amount ofthe garnish in four chilled bowls .
Salt to taste @ Pour the chilled soup at tableside.
White wine vinegar to taste

VARIATIONS
Vichyssoise with Potato Peel Reduction
For a more intense potato flavor, place the pee ls from the Yukon Gold
potatoes in a pressure cooker, add enough water to cover them comp lete ly,
and pressure-cook at 1 bar / 15 psi for 30 minutes . Strain the liquid; discard
the peels. Simmer the liquid over medium heat until its volume is reduce
by about ha lf. At step 15, add the potato-peel reduction to the puree along
with half of the cream, leek jus, and salt.
Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise
To give the soup a roasted-potato flavor, make the Vichyssoise with Potato
Pee l Reduction variation at left, but add 25 g / 2Y2 Tbsp of butter and
1 g/ Y. tsp of baking soda to the potato skins before you pressure-cook
them .

68 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

1 Preheat a water bath to 52 •c/126 •F.
11 In crease the te mp e rature of th e water bath to 90 •c / 194 •F.

2 Bring the water, potatoes, salt, and suga r to a boil in a large pot. Adding
1-2 g of sugar for every 100 g of water he lps preserve the natural sweet- 12 Vacuum sea l the halved leeks .

ness of the potatoes.

13 Cook the leeks so us vid e for 2 hours. If the lee ks float, use an
upturn ed plate to keep them submerged.
Reduce th e heat, and simmer until the potatoes become very te nd er,
3 30-40 minutes. It may take lo nger if you r ta p water is ri ch in minerals.
14 Strain the liquid from the bag. Squeeze th e leeks by pressing them
with a spoon to co llect as much jus as possible. Discard the pulp .

4 Drain the potatoes. Wearing gloves makes it easier to handl e th e hot leeks.

5 Stir the d iastati c ma lt powder into the warm potatoes.

15 Measure 400 g / 400 mL / l'/3 cups ofthe lee k jus and 400 g /
1~ cups ofthe potato puree. Stir the jus, cream, a nd sa lt into the
potato puree. Th e n coo l the soup in an ice bath, and refrige rate
6 Place th e wa rm potato mixture in a ble nd e r- the more powerful,
th e better- a nd puree until it beco mes smooth and sticky. You may it until it is fu lly chi ll ed, at least 2 hours .
need to pause a few times to stir the potatoes and scrape the sides
of the blender.
16 Bring a pot of water to a bo il, and a rrange an ice-wate r bath
alongside.

7 Place the potato puree in a zip-top bag, re move as much air as

possib le from the bag by using the water-disp lacement method
(see page 6), a nd seal it. Alternative ly, vacu um seal the puree. 17 Bla nch the julie nn ed lee ks in boiling water for 5 seconds, lift them
o ut with a strainer, plunge them into the ice-water bath, and then
drain them.

8 Cook the puree sous vid e for 30 minutes.

18 Bla nch the julienned potatoes for1 minute, plunge them in the ice
water, and then drain them.
9 Transfer the puree to a pot, a nd heat it to at least 75 •c / 167 •F. This
halts the enzymatic reactions. Use a th e rmometer, and note that th e
mixture may boil below this temperature.
19 Toss the blan ched leeks and potatoes together with the chives, o li ve

1o
oil, salt, a nd vinegar in a small bowl. Divide this garni sh a mong fo ur
Coo l the puree, and chill it. chilled bowls .

20 Pour the chilled soup into the bowls at tab lesid e.

SWEET ONION SLAW

YIELD: four servings (440 g/ 4 cups)

TIME EST IMATE: 15 minutes ofpreparation
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pickled red onion (see page 48), Modernist Mayonnaise (see page 25)

Why does cabbage get to have all the fun? This twist on a classic Throw in some charred fresh corn kernels, chopped Sous Vide
coleslaw substitutes onions for the traditional red and green cabbage. Chicken (see page 108), and slices of peeled cucumber to trans-
Use just about any kind of sweet onion-Vidalia, Maui, or Walla form this slaw into a composed salad. Or use it on sandwiches,
Walla work just as well. like our Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich (see page 92).

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Sweet o nion, julienned 280g 3cups 100% CD Combine, and mi x thorough ly.
Sour cream 100g Y3cup 36% 0 Serve immediate ly.
Scalli ons, sliced 56g '/3 cup 20%
Pickl ed red onion 40g Y. cup 14%
see page 48
Modernist Mayonnaise 20g 4tsp 7%
see page 25
Dijon mustard 12g 1 Tbsp 4%
Sa lt 4g ltsp 1.4%
Caye nn e pepper 0.4g pinch 0.14%

SALADS AND COLD SOUPS 69

GREEN SALAD WITH ROMAINE DRESSING

YIELD: four to six servings (436 g/ 6 cups)

TIME EST IMATE: 1 hour overall, including 20 minutes ofpreparation and 40 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: dressing keeps for 2 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup

This refreshing salad uses greens for the dressing as well as for the vegetables to make it a main course. You can prepare the dressing
base. Serve it alongside grilled steak, or toss in shaved seasonal (steps 1- 9) a day or two in advance.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Eggs 2large 100% 0 Preheat a water bath to 68 oC/154 °F.
0 Cook so us vide for 40 minutes.
0 Coo l, peel, and refrigerate.
Romaine lettuce leaves 40g 1 cup 40% 0 Bring a pot of water to a boil, and ar range an ice bath a longsid e .
(green parts only) ® Blanch the greens for1 minute, and then plunge the leaves into the ice
Chives, cut into 1S g y,cup 15% water immediately.
5 cm / 2 in pieces ® Drain the cooked greens and herbs, and squeeze out the excess water.
Mint leaves 1Sg lY2 cups 15%
Tarragon leaves Sg Y, cup 5%
Basil leaves Sg Y, cup 5%
Soft-cooked egg, so g 50% 0 Combine with the cooked greens in a blender, and puree until smooth .
from above
Buttermilk SOg 50 ml; Y, cup 50%
Parmigiano-Reggiano, 28g y, cup 28%
finely grated
Anchovy fillets (packed lOg 3 fillets 10%
in oil), drained
Neutral-tasting oil 40g 45 mL /3 Tbsp 40% ® Add to the pureed greens gradual ly whi le blending until fully emulsified.
Lemon juice to taste ® Season the dressing, and store it refrigerated .
Salt to taste
Butter lettuce, trimmed, 250 g 2 heads 250% @ Pour half of the dressing into a sa lad bowl, add the lettuce, and toss.
washed, a nd dried Drizzle the remaining dressing over the top.
Dressing, from above 106g 3/a cup 106%
Red radishes, very 80g 6 radishes 80% @ Scatter over the sa lad, and serve it immediately.
thinly sliced

VARIATIONS
Herb and Romaine Broth
You can make a beautiful green broth from the cooked greens to serve w ith Substitute any fresh salad greens and herbs in this dressing. We like arugu la
fish or poached chicken. After step 6, blend the cooked lettuce and herbs leaves as a substitute for the romaine; it makes for a more assertive dressing
with 300 g / 300 mL / 1',4 cups of water or vegetable stock. Alternatively, that pairs well w ith roasted root vegetables.
make a puree by blending in just25 g/25 ml /5 tsp of liquid.

Beet Salad
Beets and other root vegetables can give a green salad more substance.
Seal baby yellow or red beets whole in a zip-top bag, cook them so us vide
in an 85 •c / 185 oFwater bath until tender, 15-20 minutes, and then cool.
Quarter or shave the cooked beets, season them with olive oi l, salt, and
pepper, and then toss them with the sa lad .
Blanching the greens for just 1 minute makes them tender enough to puree but preserves
their bright green color.
After you have blanched and chilled all of the greens, you can bundle them together
in cheesecloth to press out any excess water before blending them with the egg, milk,
cheese, and anchovies to form a smooth puree.

WHILE YOU'RE AT IT: Parmesan Crisp

Give the salad some crunch by pairing it with a Parmesan crisp. Use a
Microplane to finely grate Parmesan cheese over a baking sheet to a depth
of about 3 mm /Ya in. Bake the cheese in the oven at 175 oc / 350 •F until the
cheese turns golden brown, 10-15 minutes. Let the sheet cool, and then cut
it into whatever shapes you li ke.

70 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

PRESSURE-COOKED QUINOA SALAD WITH CAULIFLOWER

YIELD: six servings (955 g/ 6 cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 45 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPEC IAL RE QU IREME NTS: pressure cookel) macadamia nut oil, honey vinegar (optional)

Pressure-cooked quinoa is ready to serve in minutes. Slice off just but you can use your favorite flavorful, sweet vinegar and any rich
the tender tips of the cauliflower florets so that they fall apart into nut oil instead. The cauliflower florets and stems left over after
tiny, grain-like pieces. We add honey vinegar and macadamia oil, t r imming can be used to make a soup or puree (see page 76).

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 690 g 690 mL/ 3 cups 345% 0 Place a baking sheet in the freezer to chill for at least 15 minutes .
White quinoa 200 g 1:Y., cups 100% 0 Combine in a pressure cooker, and pressu re-cook at a gauge pressure
of1 ba r / 15 psi for 4 minutes. Start timing when full pressure is reached.
® Depressurize the coo ker quickly by runn ing tep id wate r over the rim.
0 Strain the quinoa, and spread it in an eve n layer on the frozen bak ing
sheet to coo l quickly.
Cauliflower florets 500 g 1 medium head 250% ® Shave off the tips of the cau lifl ower florets by careful ly using a
ma nd o lin e.
® Measure 160 g/ 1',4 cups of the shaved cauliflower tips for use in the
next step.
Green a ppl e, peeled and 72g o/s cup 36% 0 Combin e, and mix gently with t he cooked quinoa a nd measured
finely diced cau lifl ower tips until all ingred ients are even ly distributed.
Pine nuts, toasted 40g l4 cup 20% ® Serve the salad co ld .
Italian parsley, minced 40g Yz cup 20%
Ce lery, peeled a nd diced 35g l4 cup 17.5%
Honey vinega r or white 35g 40 mL / 2Vz Tbsp 17.5%
balsamic vi nega r
Extra-virgin olive o il 35g 40 mL/ 2Vz Tbsp 17.5%
Dried currants 34g l4 cup 17%
Macadam ia nut oil 16 g 20 mL/ 3Vz tsp 8%
Salt to taste
Lemon ju ice to taste
Safety tipsfar pressure-cooking: see page 5

SAlADS AND COlD SOUPS 71

PRESSURE-COOKED CHICKPEA SALAD

YIELD: six servings (575 g/ 2~ cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 13 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 12~ hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker

We created this recipe to go with our Sous Vide Tuna Con fit (see the chickpeas in mineral water because its high calcium content
the next page), which produces a flavorful oil that you can use in the helps keep the chickpeas from breaking down and preserves their
dressing for this salad. The salad actually improves with a night in integrity. For a more refined presentation, you can also peel the skins
the refrigerator, which gives the flavors more time to blend. We cook from the cooked chickpeas at step 6, before making the salad.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 500g 500 mL / 2'/a cups 333% @ Combine, and soak the ch ickpeas for at least 12 hours in the refrigerator.
Dry chickpeas 150g 'l4 cup 100% 0 Drain.
Mineral water 350 g 350 mL / 1'/2 cups 233% ® Comb ine with the drained chickpeas in a pressure cooker, and
Salt 5g 1Y.. tsp 3% pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 20 minutes.
Garlic clove, whole Start timing when full pressure is reached.
3g 1 clove 2%
Thyme @ Depressurize the cooker.
1g 1 sprig 0.7%
Fresh bay leaf 0 .2g 1 medium leaf 0.1%
® Drain, and then remove and discard the garl ic and herbs.
@ Coo l the chickpeas completely.
Sherry vinegar 45g 50 mL/Y.. cup 30% 0 Comb ine in a blender, and blend until smooth.
Anchovy fillets 25 g 6-8 fil lets 17%
(packed in oil),
drained
Lemon juice lOg 10 mL / 2 tsp 7%
Lemon zest, grated 5g 2Tbsp 4%
Extra-virgin olive oil 140g 160 mL / 2/3 cup 93% ® Add gradua lly to the vinegar and anchovy mixture while blending, and
or oil from So us Vide blend until complete ly emuls ifi ed. Store the dressing in the refrigerator.
Tuna Confit
see the next page

Kalamata olives, 50g Y.. cup 33% ® Toss gently with the chickpeas and the dressing until mixed.
pitted and chopped @ Serve cold.
Capers, chopped 6g 2 tsp 4%
Basil leaves, torn 3g 5-6 leaves 2%
Mint leaves, torn 3g 5-6 leaves 2%
Safety tips for pressure-cooking: see page 5

1 Soak the chickpeas in water for at least 12 hours in the refrigerator.

The dried ch ickpeas ca n triple in size as they absorb the water, 6 Allow the chickpeas to coo l complete ly. You can peel offtheir sk ins at
this point if you want a cleaner lo ok.
so use plenty of water.

2 Drain the chickpeas. 7 Combine the vinegar, drained anchovy fillets, lemon juice, and lemon
zest in a blender. Blend until smooth. You can also use an immersion
blender.

3 Combine the mineral water, salt, garli c, thyme, and bay leaf with the
drained chickpeas in a pressure cooker, and then pressure-cook at a
gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 20 minutes . Start timing as soon as
full pressure has been reached.
8 Whi le blending, add the oil gradually to the vinegar and anchovy mix-
ture, and contin ue blending until the dressing is completely emulsified.
Refrigerate the dressing if you will not be using it immediately.

4 Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.
9 Toss the chopped o lives and capers with the herbs, chickpeas, and
dressing to mix them gently.
5
1o
Drain the ch ickpeas, and discard the garlic clove and herbs .
Serve cold. The sa lad is delicious when topped with sl ices ofSous
Vide Tuna Confit (see the next page).

72 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HO ME
SOUS VIDE TUNA CON FIT

YIELD: six servings (SOD g)

TIME ESTIMATE: 2S72 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 2S hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup, three SOO mL/ 16 oz canning jars

The tuna in this recipe is cooked sous vide in jars rather than in bags is more fragile and perishable than the preserved, pressure-canned
as an example of how you can cook in a low-temperature water bath variety. Handle it delicately, store it in the refrigerator, and eat it
without using plastic. Because the tuna is fresh and lightly cooked, it within 3 days.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 600g 600 mL/ 2Y2 cups 120% 0 Combine, and stir until dissolved to make a brine.
Salt 24g 2Tbsp 4.8%
Sugar 12g 2 tsp 2.4%
Ahi tuna, cut into 500 g/1.11b 100% 0 Place in the brine, and refrigerate for 24 hours.
2.5 cm / 1 in pieces
Olive oil 500 g 560 mL/ 2Y' cups 100% ® Preheat a water bath to 51 ' C/ 124 ' F.
@) Drain the tuna, rinse it in cold water, and then pat it dry.
® Divide the tuna even ly into three 500 mL/ 16 oz canning jars, and add
enough oil to cover the fish by 1 cm /:Y. in. Seal the jars tightly.
® Place the sea led jars in the water bath, and cook sous vide to a core
temperature of 50 ' C/ 122 ' F, about 1 hour.
0 Serve the tuna warm, or store it, refrigerated, in the canning jars.
Safety tipsfor lightly wakedfood, see page ix

1 Add the salt and sugar to the water, and stir until they dissolve. This is
the brine.
2 Place the tuna in the brine, and refrigerate it for 24 hours to marinate.
5 Divide the tuna pieces evenly into three 500 mL / 16 oz canning jars,
and add enough o li ve o il to cover the fish by 1 em /:Y. in. Don't leave
much heads pace, or the jars will float in the water bath. Sea l the jars
tightly.

3 Preheat a water bath to 51 ' C/ 124 ' F.

6 Place the sealed jars in the water bath, and cook so us vid e until the
core temperature of the tuna pieces reaches 50 ' C/ 122 ' F, about 1 hour.

4 Drain the brine from the tuna pieces, rinse them in co ld water, and
then pat them dry with paper towels.
7 Serve the tuna warm, or store it in the sea led canningjars for up to
3 days in the refrigerator.

You can substitute swordfish, black cod, halibut, sa lm o n, or escolar for
the tuna in this recipe with excellent results.
We use ordinary cook ing-grade ol ive oi l, as extra-virgin o live oil tends
to overpower the flavor of the tuna. But other mild oils, such as rice bran,
avocado, or macadamia nut oil, will work as well.
WHILE YOU'RE AT IT: Tuna Confit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich
Make a tuna salad by combining150 g / 1 cup of flaked or chopped tuna
con fit with 30 g / 2 Tbsp of mayonnaise or aioli (see page 25) and 15 g /
2 Tbsp chopped pickled onions. To make a tuna melt sandwich, spread the
tuna salad on sourdough bread, and top with two Perfectly Melting Cheese
Slices (see page 145). See Grilled Cheese Sandwiches on page 150 for
finishing instructions.

SALADS AND COLD SOUPS 73

PRESSURE-COOKED LENTIL SALAD

YIELD: six to eight servings (750 g/ 4 cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 30 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 3 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker, Modernist Vinaigrette (see page 35)
INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE
Dry green lentil s 200g 1cup 100% 0 Cover with plenty of co ld water, and leave to soak at room temperature
(commo n) for 2 hours.
0 Drain.
Carrots, thinly sliced 85g 1\4 cups 43% ® Wrap in cheesecloth, and tie closed to create a sachet.
Leeks, thinly sliced 70g ~c up 35%
Sweet onion, thinly sliced SOg ~cup 25%
Shallots, thinly sl iced SOg ~cup 25%
Celery, thinly sli ced so g Yz cup 25%
Garlic, thinly sliced Bg 2 cloves 4%
Black peppercorns 2g ltsp 1%
Thyme 1g 1 sprig 0.5%
Fresh bay leaf 0.2g 11eaf 0.1%
Mineral water 750 g 750 mL/ 3\4 cups 375% @) Comb ine with the lenti ls and sachet in a pressure cooker.
® Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 7 minutes . Start
timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.
® Depressurize the cooker quickly by running tepid water over the rim.
0 Check the lentils for tenderness; they should be al dente. If necessary,
simm erthem uncovered for1-2 minutes longer.
® Discard the sachet, and allow the lentils to rest in the cooki ng liquid
at room temperature for 30 minutes.
® Drain, and refrigerate until chilled .
Modernist Vinaigrette 85g 100 mL /Ys cup 43% @ Toss gently with the chi ll ed lentils, and season with sa lt to taste.
see page 35
Salt to taste
Walnuts, chopped 9Sg z;, cup 48% ® Stir into the lentils. Serve immediately, or refrigerate for 1 day, which
Fuji apple, peeled and BOg 1 cup 40% improves the balance of the flavors in the salad.
finely diced
Chives, finely minced Sg 2Tbsp 3%
Safety tipsfar pressure-cooking: see pageS

Larger lentils and French green lentils

take up to 20 minutes to cook in step 5.

74 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

CARAMELIZED CARROT SOUP

YIELD: six servings (1.3 kg/ 6 cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 40 minutes overall, including 20 minutes ofpreparation and 20 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 2 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker, Stove-Top Carotene Butter (optional, see page 39)

The quality of this soup depends entirely on the quality of the car- optional step, however; you can try the soup both ways and compare.
rots that go into it, so use the highest-quality carrots you can find. Add a swirl of coconut cream and a few sprigs of tarragon in the
Carrot cores, rich in calcium, can add a bitter taste and unpleasant final step to enhance the inherent sweetness of the carrots. Shredded
texture to this delicate soup, so we always remove them. It's an young coconut and ajowan seeds are other favorite garnishes of ours.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Carrots, peeled 500g 5 cups / 5 medium 100% CD Core the carrots by quartering them lengthwise and sl icing away a ny
tough or fibrous cores. Cut the cored carrots into pieces 5 em / 2 in long.
Unsalted butter l13g Y2 cup 22.6% 0 Melt in the base of a pressure cooker over medium heat.
Water 30 g 30 mL/ Y• cup 6% ® Stirto comb ine, and then add with t he carrots to the me lted butter.
Salt 5g 1\4 tsp 1% 0 Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 20 minutes.
Baking soda 2.5g :Y. tsp 0.5% Start timing when full pressure is reached.
® Depressurize the cooker quickly by running tepid water over the rim .
® Blend the mixture to a smooth puree.
(j) Pass the puree through a fine sieve into a pot.
Fresh carrot juice 635g 690 mL /2Y2 cups 127% ® Bring to a boil in a separate pot, and then strain through a fine sieve.
® Stir into the carrot puree. Add water, if necessa ry, to thin the so up to
the desired consistency.
Stove-Top Carotene 40g 3Y2 Tbsp 8% @ Blend into the sou p by using an immers ion blender until the butter has
Butte r (or unsalted butter) just melted.
see page39
Salt to taste @ Season, and serve warm.
Safety tipsfar pressure-cooking: see page 5

1 Slice the carrots le ngthwise into quarters,

and cut out and d iscard the tough and
fibrous core from each quarter. Then cut
the cored carrots into pieces 5 cm/2 in
long. Removing the cores im proves the
texture and sweetness ofthe soup.
5 Depressurize the cooker quickly by running
tep id water over the rim.
6 Blend the carrot mixture to a smooth puree.
7 Pass the puree th rough a fine sieve into
a pot.
This recipe was one ofthe most popu lar in
Modernist Cuisine. We do not use stock or cream
in this recipe because we want to avo id di lu ting
th e carrot flavors. The juice from some kinds
of carrots is so strongly flavored, however, that
it overpowers the more de licate, carame lized
carrot flavor. If that happens, substitute water,
ch icken stock, or vegetable stock for some or

2 Melt the butter in the base of a pressure

cooker. The coating of butter helps to
a ll of the carrot juice in step 8.

prevent the carrots from stick ing.

8 Bring the carrot juice to a boil in a separate
pot. Then stra in the juice through a fine VARIATION: Caramelized Carrot Puree
sieve to remove any so li ds. To make a de licious carrot puree that pairs well
3 Stirthe water, sa lt, and baking soda until
combined . Add this mixture a nd the carrot
with So us Vide Lobster Tail (see variation on
page 130), skip steps 8-10. See the next page
pieces to t he melted butter, and stir well.
9 Stir the stra in ed ju ice into the carrot puree,
and return it to a simmer. Add water as
for additional variations.
needed to thin the soup to the desired

4 Pressure-cook the carrot mixture at a gauge

pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 20 minutes. Start
cons iste ncy.

timing as soon as full pressure has been

reached. Gas and e lectric burners tend to
cause so lids to catch on the bottom ofthe
10 Blend the butter into the soup until
it has just melted. Use an immersion
blender; the blending is crucia l to
pressure cooke r, so careful ly give the pot
ach ieve a velvety texture.
a few shakes as it heats to prevent sticki ng.
Afte r 20 minutes, the carrots shou ld be fully
carame lized.
11 Season the soup with sa lt to taste,
and serve it warm.

PRESSURE-COOKED VEGETABLE SOUPS 75

OTHER PRESSURE-COOKED VEGETABLE SOUPS AND PUREES

Pressure-cooking works well for making soups and purees from
a wide range of vegetables. In each of the variations below, replace
the carrots in the Caramelized Carrot Soup recipe on the previous
page with the vegetable listed, and then continue with steps 1- 7.
Replace the carrot juice with the flavorful liquid indicated, and thin
to the desired consistency in step 9. Finally, add the garnishes, and
serve the soup hot. To make a thick puree from any of these varia-
tions, skip steps 8-9. These recipes scale up well, but because they
rely on the internal water content of the vegetables to produce steam,
quantities should not be scaled down.

Squash Soup Artichoke Soup

Delicata or butternut 500g 5 cups / 1-2 medium Trimmed artichoke 500 g 4V' cups /
squash, peeled and bottoms or peeled 10-11 medium
diced and diced sunchokes
Lemongrass, trimmed 18g Vs cup / 1 sta lk Chicken stock as needed
and sliced see page 9
Coconut milk as needed Garnishes: musse ls cooked so us vide (see page 132), saffron,
Garnishes: seared sca llops, shredded young coconut, and olive oil
and lime zest

Leek and Onion Soup Pressure-Caramelized Banana Puree

Leeks, thinly sliced, 500 g 8 cups / Unsa lted butter BOg SV2 Tbsp
white parts only 10 medium Sugar lO g 1 Tbsp
Yellow onions, 500 g 6 cups / Baking soda 2.5g V2tsp
thinly sl iced 7 1arge
Bananas, peeled and sli ced 500g 2 ba nanas
Cheese water as needed
see page148 Salt to taste

Garnishes: rendered bacon fat (see page 41), pressure-cooked leeks
(see page 119), and low-temperature poached egg (see page 142 in the
main volume)
Melt the butter in the base of a pressure cooker. Add the sugar and baking
soda, and stir to combine. Add the bananas, and stir until they are evenly
coated with the butter mixture. Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of
1 bar / 15 psi for 28 minutes. Start timing as soon as fu ll pressure has been
reached. Depressurize the cooker by running tepid water over the rim.
Puree the banana mixture in a blend er until it is smooth. Season the puree
with sa lt to taste, and serve it warm or cold.

Apple and Parsnip Soup Bell Pepper Soup

Parsnips, peeled 400 g 3V' cups / 6 medium Red bell pepper, 500g 5 cups /
and diced seeded and sli ced 8 medium
Hon eycrisp apples, 200g 2 cups / 2-3 medium Sous Vide Fish Stock as needed
peeled and diced see pagell
Ch icken stock as needed Garnishes: blue cheese, fresh mint, sliced black olives, and white
see page 9
anchovies
Garnishes: pickled app les (see page 48), speck, and brown butter
(see page 37)

Mushroom Soup Cauliflower Soup

Shiitake mushroom SOOg 8V2 cups Cau liflower florets, SOOg 7 cups / llarge head
caps, sliced sl iced
Mushroom jus as needed Vegetable stock as needed
see pagelS see page 13
Garnishes: chives, cognac, and Pressure-Caramelized Onions Garnishes: chopped Marcona alm onds, peeled grapes, and Chaat Masala
(see page 45) (see page 53)

Broccoli-Gruyere Soup Corn Soup

Broccoli florets, sli ced 500 g 8 cups/2 heads Fresh corn kerne ls cut 500 g 3:Y.. cu ps/ 4 ears
Gruyere cheese, grated 40 g 3,4 cup from the cob
Chi cken stock as needed Toasted Corn Stock as needed
see page 9 see page 14

Garnis hes: fr ied broccoli florets, toasted hazelnuts, and thyme leaves Ga rnishes: shrimp poached sous vide (see page 128), basil, and sli ced
cherry tomatoes

76 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

PRESSURE-COOKED VEGETABLE JUS

YIELD: 420 g/ 1% cups

TIME ESTIMATE: 2 hours overall, including 30 minutes of preparation and 111 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker, three 500 mL/ 16 oz canning jars

You can combine this recipe and the two that follow into a Modern-
ist Vegetable Stew-see the next page for instructions. Pressure-
cooking can extract the essence of vegetables using much less water
than you typically would when making stock. The concentrated
result is so flavorful that it is really a jus, although you can use it
much as you would an intense stock, for example to make sauces and
broths. The technique here lends itself to wonderful variations, such
as jus made from carrots, turnips, parsnips, and other seasonal root
vegetables, or from a combination of vegetables and fruits such as
cabbage and apple, or bell pepper and tomato.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Sweet onions, thinly sliced 265 g 3\4 cups 100% CD Toss together, and divide evenly among three 500 mL / 16 oz
Garlic cloves, thinly sliced 160g 1Y2 cups 60% canning jars.
Shallots, thinly sliced 135g Wa cups 51%
Leeks, white parts only, 135g 1y, cups 51%
thinly sliced
Water 120 g 120 mL /Y2 cup 45% 0 Add 40 g / 40 mL / 8 tsp ofwaterto each jar. Tighten the lids fully,
and then unscrew one-quarter turn so that the jars do not explode.
® Place the filled jars on a metal rack or trivet in the base of a pressure
cooker, and add 2.5 cm / 1 in of water.
0 Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 1y, hours. Start
timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.
® Depressurize the cooker by running tepid water over the rim. Let the
jar contents cool slightly before opening to avoid splattering.
® Strain through a fine sieve, reserving the juices. Discard the solids, or
reserve for another use.
Salt to taste 0 Season the jus, and serve it warm.
Safety tipsfo r pressure-cooking: see page 5

PRESSURE-COOKED VEGETABLES

YIELD: 300-400 g/ 4-6 cups

TO MAKE AHEAD
TIME ESTIMATE: 10 minutes overall After draining the liquid in step 4, cool the vegetables,
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 1 day when refrigerated and refrigerate them in a covered container. To reheat the
vegetables, place them on a microwave-safe plate, cover with
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
plastic wrap, and microwave for 30 seconds at 550 watts.
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS : pressure cooker

Pressure-cooking is well suited to any firm vegetable, including root Pressure-cooking also works well with hard fruits, such as apples,
vegetables, onions, shallots, leeks, garlic, hard squashes, and stalks Asian pears, and quince. If baby vegetables aren't available, peel and
like celery, rhubarb, chard, and cardoon. The vegetables emerge cut larger ones into bite-size pieces. Make sure all the pieces are the
from the cooker very soft and having a delicate, fudge-like texture. same size so that they cook evenly.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Baby carrots, trimmed 24 pieces CD Combine in a pressure cooker.
Pearl onions, trimmed 24 pieces 0 Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 3 minutes. Start
Baby turnips, trimmed 12 pieces timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.
Baby radishes, trimmed 12 pieces ® Depressurize the cooker quickly by running tepid water over the rim .
Water 120 g 120 mL/ Y2 cup 100% 0 Drain the liquid, and serve the vegetables immediately.
Unsalted butter, cubed 14 g 1 Tbsp 12%
Salt 2g y, tsp 1.7%
Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 5

PRESSURE-COOKED VEGETABLE SOUPS 77

PRESSURE-COOKED BARLEY

YIELD: 480 g/3 cups

TIME ESTIMATE: 30 minutes overall, including 10 minutes ofpreparation and 20 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker

Any whole grain-barley, wheat, spelt, farro, amaranth, quinoa, barley we call for here includes the intact bran, but pearl barley is fine
millet-can be cooked perfectly in a pressure cooker in very little as a substitute and takes even less time to cook.
time (for cooking times, see the table on page 151). The hulled

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Hulled barley (with 200g 1 cup 100% CD Comb ine in a pressure cooker, and bring to a boil.
bran intact), rinsed
a nd drained
0 Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for 20 minutes.
Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.
Water 500g 500 mL/ 2'/a cups 250% ® Depressurize the cooke r quickly by running tepid water over the rim.
@) Strain the barley, and serve it immediately.
Safety tipsfar pressure·cooking: see page 5

TO MAKE AHEAD While You 're At It: Barley Salad

After straining the barley in step 4, rinse it with co ld water, and drain well.
Transfer the barley to a baking sheet, and refrigerate it uncovered until
completely cool, about 1 hour. Then toss the barley with a bit of oil to keep
the grains from sticking together, and store it, covered, in the refrigerator.
To reheat the barley, warm it in a pot with a sma ll amount of broth or water.
Combine 480 g / 3 cups of cooked and cooled barley with 175 g / :Y., cup
of Spinach Pesta (see page 23), 72 g /o/a cup of minced green apple, and
35 g / Y, cup of peeled and diced celery.

VEGETABLE STEW

YIELD: four servings (435 g /2 cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 20 minutes ofpreparation
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS: Pressure-Cooked Barley (see above), Pressure-Cooked Vegetables (see the previous page), Pressure-
Cooked Vegetable Jus (see the previous page), Pressure-Cooked Garlic Confit oil (see page 44)

You can compose pressure-cooked barley, vegetables, and vegetable and the plate-up are straightforward, and offer a good example
jus from the three preceding recipes in this chapter to make an of how home cooks can produce restaurant-quality food with
impressively elegant vegetable stew. Both the individual preparations confidence and relative ease.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME PROCEDURE

Pressure-Cooked Barley, warm 100 g '/2 cup CD Distribute the barley, turnips, carrots, onions, and radishes evenly
see the previous page among four bowls. Tweezers are a handy tool forth is step.
Pressure-Cooked Vegetables, all pieces
warm
see the previous page

Seasonal greens a nd herbs
Pressure-Cooked Vegetable jus,
warm
see the previous page
a few small leaves of each 0 Garnish. Use your imagination, and experiment with a variety of colors
and arrangements (see variations below).
250 g 250 mL/ 1 cup ® Divide equa lly among the four bowls.

Pressure-Cooked Garlic Confit oil 40 g 45 mL / 3 Tbsp @) Drizzle into the prepared bowls of soup.
see page44
Salt to taste ® Sprinkle over the bowls, and serve the stew immediately.

VARIATIONS: Seasonal Herb Garnishes

Many combinatio ns of fresh herbs work as garnishes. Here are some Spring: baby chard, chervil, basil, and chive blossoms
seasona l possibilities. Summer: purslane, nasturtiums, and tarragon
Winter: amaranth, baby beet greens, and rosemary Autumn: baby mustard greens, watercress, a nd thyme

78 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

SOUS VIDE STEAK

YIELD: four servings (1 kg/2 steaks)

TIME ESTIMATE: 1 hour overall, including 50 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup, blowtorch or deepjrying setup

Cook steaks sous vide to perfection, and then quickly sear the out- over very high heat. The temperatures we give here cook strip steaks
side to a crisp, savory brown. Our two favorite searing methods are just the way we like them; see the table on the next page for recom-
deep-frying in very hot oil and searing with a blowtorch. Alterna- mended cooking temperatures for other kinds of tender steaks
tively, sear the steaks for 30 seconds per side in a large, oiled skillet or chops.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Beef strip steaks,
at least2 .5 cm / 1 in
thick
Neutral-tasting oil
Neutral frying oil
see page viii
Unsalted butter,
melted (optional)
Flaky salt (Mal don brand) to taste
1 kg / 2.21b 21arge 100% 0 Preheat a water bath to 55 ' C/ 131 ' F.
0 Place each steak in a separate zip-top bag with a small amount of oil.
Remove as much air as possible from the bags, and seal them.
as needed 0 Cook sous vide to a core temperature of 54 ' C/ 129 ' F, about 50 minutes.
as needed 0 Preheat to 225 ' C/ 437 ' Fin a large, deep pot no more than half full.
® Remove the cooked steaks from the bags, and pat them dry.
@ Deep-fry the steaks until they turn dark brown a nd crispy, abo ut
30 seconds, and then drain them on a wire rack.
as needed 0 Brush over the steaks.
® Season generously. Sl ice and serve immediately.
Safety tipsfor deep frying: see page 4
Safety tipsfor b/owtorching: see page 2

Creamed Spinach (see page 82) and Spinach Butter (see variation on page 39)
make wonderful accompaniments to steak.

1 Preheat a water bath to 55 ' C/ 131 ' F.

4 Preheat the frying oi l to 225 ' C/ 437 ' Fin a large, deep pot no more
than halffull.

2 Place each steak in a separate zip-top bag with just enough oil to coat
the meat. Remove as much air as possible, and seal.
5 Remove the cooked steaks from the bags, and pat them dry.

3 Cook sous vide to a core temperature of 54 ' C/ 129 ' Ffor medium
rare, about 50 minutes. Cooking time will vary with the thickness of 6 Deep-fry the steaks until they turn dark brown and crispy, about
30 seconds, and then drain them on a wire rack.
the meat and its starting temperature; it's best to monitor the internal
temperature by using a probe. A steak that is 5 em I 2 in thick may take
more than 3 hours to reach the target temperature, for example. If you
prefer meat cooked more fully, use the table on the next page to se lect
7 Brush the steaks with melted butter.

the desired core temperature, and set your water bath temperature
1 ' C/ 2 ' Fabove that.
8 Season generous ly with sa lt to taste. Slice and serve immed iate ly.

STEAK 79
Best Bets for Cooking Tender Meat Sous Vide
To cook steak so us vide, follow the steps on the previous page. For more on cooking to a target core temperature and othersous vide techniques, see
chapter 3 in the main volume. For suggested times and temperatures for cooking tough cuts of meat so us vide, see the table on page 99. Flank steak can
be treated as either a tender or tough cut.

Target core temperature

Rare Medium rare Pink Medium
Ingredient Note See page
beef, filet 50 122 53 127 56 133 62 144
beef, flank 54 129 56 133 59 138 62 144 cut thinly against the grain for maximum 51
tenderness, or use a kalbi marinade
beef, rib eye 54 129 56 133 58 136 60 140 to tenderize, hold at 56 •c / 133 •rfor3 hours
beef, strip steak 52 126 55 133 57 135 62 144 dry-aged is ideal; see page 186 in the main next
volume for a trick that mimics agi ng
lamb loin, rack 54 129 57 135 59 138 62 144 coat with ol ive oil to prevent a strong lamb
flavor from developing
pork loin chop n/ a 58 136 60 140 62 144 brine before cooking 83
pork tenderloin n/ a 56 133 59 138 61 142
(temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)

SOUS VIDE STEAK IN A COOLER

YIELD: jour servings (1 kg/2steaks)

TIME ESTIMATE: 1 hour overall, including 50 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: cooler, blowtorch or grill

You can make perfectly cooked steak even when tailgating or at a
picnic by simply using your cooler as an improvised water bath. Pour
hot water into the cooler, drop in the sealed steaks, and head to the
game or the beach. That's it! You need about 8 quarts of water per
steak to maintain the water temperature, which will drop when you
add the meat. Start with room-temperature steaks and water that
is 8 •c / 14 •p hotter than the target core temperature. Eat the steak
within 4 hours of putting it in the water; steak held longer than that
is not safe to eat. Fish and tender cuts of chicken also can be cooked
this way; see the tables on pages 127 and 109 for temperatures.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Beef strip steaks, 1 kg / 2.21b 21arge 100% 0 Bring the steaks and a large cooler to room temperature.
at least 2.5 cm / 1 in 0 Place each steak in a separate zip-top bag with 10 g/ 15 mL / 1 Tbsp of oil,
thick and seal by using the water-displacement method (see page 6).
Neutral-tasting oil 20g 25 mL / lY2 Tbsp 2% ® Fill the cooler with 60 •c/140 •r water, drop in the bags, and close
the lid. Make sure there is plenty of space between the steaks.
0 Cook so us vide to a core temperature of 52 •c / 126 •r, about 50 minutes,
for medium-rare steaks.
® Transfer the cooked steaks to a rack or a baking sheet.
0 Sear on all sid es by using a blowtorch or on a very hot grill.
Unsalted butter, melted as needed 0 Brush over the steaks.
(optional)
Flaky salt (Mal don brand) to taste ® Season generously. Slice, and serve immediately.
Safety tipsfor b/owtorching: see page 2

80 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

LOW-TEMP OVEN STEAK
YIELD: Jour servings (1 kg/ 2 steaks)
TIME ESTIMATE : 1!h hours overall, including 10 minutes ofpreparation and 80 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: digital thermometer with oven-safe probe

Some professional chefs use water-vapor ovens to cook with greater
precision at very low temperatures. Although home ovens don't
yet offer such "set it and forget it" convenience, you can achieve
similar results by using a warm conventional oven (even a good
toaster oven), a digital probe thermometer, and frequent checking
and adjustment to compensate for inevitable drifts in the oven
temperature.
We highly recommend that you first freeze the outside of the
steaks so that you can sear them without overcooking the interior.
The preseared meat then cooks to perfection in the low-temperature
oven. This technique takes some patience, but the result is worth it.
If your oven cannot hold a low temperature, try a different impro-
vised setup, such as the recipe on the previous page for cooking in a
cooler.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Beef strip steaks, at least
2.5 cm / 1 in thick
Neutral frying oil
or pressure-rendered
beeffat
see pages viii or 41
Unsalted butter, melted
(optional)
Flaky salt (Ma ldon brand) to taste
1 kg / 2.2 lb 21arge 100% CD Place the steaks on a baking sheet, and freeze them for 30 minutes.
0 Preheat the oven to 70 oC/ 160 oFor its lowest temperature setting.
25 g 25 mL / 2 Tbsp 2.5% 0 Brush the fat on the partially frozen steaks.
0 Heat a dry skillet over high heat, and sear the steaks until dark brown,
about 60 seconds on each side.
® Transfer the seared steaks to a baking sheet. Insert the oven-safe probe
of a digital thermometer into the thickest part of one steak.
® Cook in the oven to a core temperature of 55 °C/ 133 °F, about
50 minutes.
as needed 0 Brush over the steaks.
® Season generously. Slice and serve immediately.

1 Place the steaks on a baking sheet, and set in the freezer for 30 minutes
to freeze the exterior. The interior of the meat should remain unfrozen.
2 Preheat the oven to 70 °C/ 160 °For its lowest temperature setting. If
you have a water-vapor oven or home combi oven, set it to 1 °C/ 2 oF
higher than the desired final core temperature of the steaks (see the
table on the previous page for suggested core temperatures).
3 Brush the fat on the partially frozen steaks.
6 Place the steaks in the oven, and cook them to a core temperature
of 55 oc / 133 °Ffor medium-rare strip steaks, or to another tempera-
ture se lected from the tab le o n page 80. The cooking time wi ll vary
greatly depending on the thickness of the meat; allow about 50 minutes
for strip steaks 2.5 cm / 1 in thick. The core temp-erature rises slowly at
first but in creases more quickly as time passes. Once the temperature
is within about 10 °C/ 18 °Fof the target temperature, check the steaks
every minute or so to avo id overcooking. The core temperature will
continue to rise a few degrees afterthe steaks come out ofthe oven .

4 Heat a dry skillet over high heat, and sear the steaks until they turn
dark brown, about 60 seconds on each side. Press down on the steaks
7 Brush the steaks with melted butter.

to ensure even browning. You may want to sear the fat as well by hold-
ing the steak on its sid e.
8 Season the steaks generously with salt to taste. Slice the meat,
and serve it immediately.

5 Transfer the seared steaks to a rack or a baking sheet. Insert the oven-
safe probe of a digital thermometer into the thickest part of one steak.

VARIATION: Frozen Steak

This recipe works with a fully frozen steak as well. Preheat a pan with
neutral frying oil to its smoke point. Add the steak, and sear on one side
until it turns dark brown. Searing one side is usually sufficient to develop
the desired appearance and flavor. But you can also flip the steak, and sear
the other side. Then continue with step 5. At step 6, add 20-25 minutes to
the cooking tim e.

STEAK 81
CREAMED SPINACH

YIELD : jour to eight servings (525 g/ 2~ cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 30 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: Wondra, xanthan gum, Comti cheese, Pressure-Cooked Garlic Confit (optional, see page 44)

Creamed spinach is a classic pairing for grilled steak, and it deserves Xanthan gum absorbs residual moisture, thickening the sauce
more attention than the typical side dish does. We add salt at the without dulling the flavor. A hint oflemon zest and the savory,
start of the recipe to help draw excess moisture from the greens. nutty Comte cheese make this dish bold enough to stand alone.

INGRED IENT WE IGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Baby spinach, washed 600g 10 cups 100% 0 Working in batches, saute over medium-high heat until the spinach
Neutral-tasting oil 20g 25 mL / lY2 Tbsp 3% is wilted, about 1 minute. Alternatively, steam it until just tender.
Sa lt 2g y, tsp 0.3% 0 Cool the spinach completely.
® Squeeze it in cheesecloth or in the bottom of a sieve to remove excess
liqu id.
0 Chop it finely.
Pressure-Cooked Garlic 24 g 1Y, Tbsp 4% ® Saute until the shallots become translucent, about 2 minutes.
Confit, mashed
@ Stir in the chopped spinach, and cook for 3 minutes .
(or Dijon mustard)
see page44
Shal lots, minced 20g 2Y, Tbsp 3%
Neutral -tasting oil 20 g 25 mL / 1Y2 Tbsp 3%
Mascarpone lOOg y, cup 17% 0 Stir into the mixture unti l melted, and then remove it from the heat.
Whole milk, cold BOg 80mL /YJcup 13% ® Whisk together in a bowl.
Xanthan gum 0.4g 0.07% ® Mix the milk mixture into the prepared spinach, and bring it to a simmer.
Comte cheese, 40g o/s cup 7% @ Fo ld into the warm, creamed spinach just before serving.
fine ly grated
Lemon zest, finely grated 0.5g y, tsp 0 .08%
Black pepper, ground to taste @ Season the spinach, and serve it warm.
Sa lt to taste

lfxanthan gum isn't available, you can substitute
2 g / y, tsp of Ultra-Sperse 3 or Wondra for the
xanthan gum in step 8. Ultra-Sperse 3 is made
from precooked tapioca and has better flavor
release than products based on wheat or
cornstarch.
VAR IAT ION: South Indian Watercress
In steps 1-4, use watercress in place of some or all of the
spinach. At step 5, saute 40 g / 4 Tbsp of minced shallots
and 5 g / 2Y, tsp of black mustard seed in 25 g / 25 mL /
2 Tbsp of mustard oil. Omit steps 7-10. Instead, stir 30 g /
2Y2 Tbsp each of coconut milk and coconut cream into
the greens, remove the mixture from the heat, and con-
tinue with step 11. Garnish the dish with young coconut
and finely sliced mint leaves.

82 MODERNI ST CUISI NE AT HO ME
GRILLED PORK CHOP

YIELD: four to eight servings (1 kg/four pork chops)

TIME ESTIMATE: 1 hour 30 minutes overall, including 1 hour unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup, charcoal grill, portable fan or hair dryer
GOES WELL WITH: Grilled Applesauce (see page 42), Shiitake Marmalade (see page 64), Chinese Garlic Chili
Condiment (see page 117)

Poor grilled pork chops! People often feel obligated to cook them
into dry pieces ofleather for safety reasons- but, as we explained
in Modernist Cuisine, this concern is outdated. Pork today is as
safe as beef, and should be served done to juicy perfection and
with a crisp crust-a result you can get every time by combining
low-temperature cooking with high-temperature searing. In this
recipe, we suggest using a hair dryer to fan the coals so that they
become extremely hot just before you sear the meat. Be aware that
some ash will blow off the coals at first, and the embers will then
burn much faster than usual, so do not leave the grill unattended.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Pork chops, loin end, 1.8 kg/ 41b 41arge 100% CD Preheat a water bath to 57 oc/135 °F.
bone in, at least 0 Place each pork chop in a separate zip-top bag with 10 g/ 15 mL / 1 Tbsp
2.5 cm / 1 in thick of oil. Use the water-displacement method (see page 6) to remove
Neutral frying oil 40g 45 mL / 3 Tbsp 2% as much air as possible from the bag, and seal it.
see page viii ® Cook so us vide to a core temperature of 56 °C/ 133 oF, about 1 hour.
Rendered bacon fat 200g 220 mL/ 1 cup 11 % 0 While the pork chops are cooking, build a large fire in a charcoal grill.
or neutral frying oil ® When the coals are gray and ashy, bank them to one side.
see page41
® Place a clean rack over the coals to preheat for at least 10 minutes.
0 Warm the bacon fat gently until it is just melted.
® Remove the pork chops from the bags, and pat them dry.
® Brush the bacon fat generously over all sides of the pork chops.
@ Hold a hair dryer underneath the gri ll, with the grill vents open, and
aim the airflow at the coals .
@ Sear the pork chops over the very hot coals until they are marked by
the rack, 30- 60 seconds. Flip the chops over, and sear the other sides.
@ Turn off the hair dryer, and allow the chops to rest for 3 minutes.
Salt to taste @ Cut the pork from the bone, and slice it if desired. Season the meat,
and serve it hot.

Any of the methods li sted in the table on page 192 in the main volume for
cooking steak work for pork chops as well.

STE AK 83
GRILLED STEAK

YIELD: four servings (1 kg/ 2 steaks)

TIME ESTIMATE: 20 hours overall, including 1 hour ofpreparation and 10 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: advanced (temperature control)
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: charcoal grill

Cooking steaks on the backyard barbecue is so festive and social that
people tend to overlook the quality of the result. Try the Modernist
technique described here to capture the aroma and appearance of
a grilled steak with the succulent, even results oflow-temperature
cooking. The trick is to maintain a very low and even temperature
on the grill. You can accomplish this by partially freezing the steaks
before you give them an initial sear on a hot grill. Then let them thaw
off the grill while the coals smolder. The final cooking is done slowly
over indirect heat and on a cool, buffering layer of sliced onions (or
another root vegetable). The onions won't be fully cooked at this
point, but they will have some of the grilled-beef flavor, so you can
quickly sear or saute them, and then serve them as a side dish.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Beef strip steaks 1 kg / 2.21b 21arge 100% CD Place the steaks on a baking sheet, and freeze for 40 minutes .
at least 2.5 cm / 1 in 0 Whi le the steaks freeze, bu il d a large fire in a charcoal gri ll . When the
thick coals are gray and ashy, bank them to one side of the gri ll .
® Place a clean rack over the coa ls to preheat for at least10 minutes .
Neutral frying oil as needed 0 Brush generously onto all sides of the partially frozen steaks.
see page viii
® Grill the steaks over very hot coals until marked and well seared, about
1 minute per side.
® Transfer to a rack placed on a bak ing sheet, and leave at room tempera-
ture until completely thawed, about1 hour.
Sweet onions 1.2 kg 3-4 medium 120% 0 Cut the onions into slices 1 cm / :Y. in thick.
® Adjust the airflow of the grill so that the coals maintain a low, even
smolder. Place a steel pan full of ice opposite the banked coals.
® Arrange a bed of onion slices on the grill rack, above the ice. Place the
steaks on the onion slices.
@ Cook the steaks covered, flipping and rotating them every 5 minutes,
until they reach an inte rnal temperature of 50 "C/ 122 "F, 30-40 minutes.
@ Remove the steaks from the grill, and let them rest for 5 minutes.
Flaky salt (Maldon brand) to taste @ Season the steaks generously. Slice the meat, and serve it immediately.

84 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

1 Place the steaks on a baking sheet, and freeze for 40 minutes. The goal
is to freeze only the outer1 cm /:Ya in, so that the surface can be seared
witho ut cooking the interior.

2 While the steaks freeze, build a large fire in a charcoal grill. When
most of the coals are completely covered with gray as h, bank them to
one sid e of the grill. This creates a more intense heat source for searing
the meat.

3 Place a clean rack over the coals to preheat for at least 10 minutes .

4 Brush all sides of the steaks generous ly with the oil.

5 Grill the steaks over very hot coals until they are marked and we ll
seared, about 1 minute per side.

6 Place the steaks on a rack over a baking sheet, and leave at room
temperature until com pletely thawed, about 1 hour.

7 Cut the onions into sli ces 1 em/% in thick.

8 Adjust the airflow of the grill so that the coa ls maintain a low, even
smolder while the steaks are thawing. You wi ll need to add about
three coals every10 minutes to maintain an eve n temperature. Open-
ing and closing the vent every time you add coals also helps remove
the ash and keep the air flowing over the hot coals. Place a stee l pan
ful l of ice opposite the banked coa ls underthe gri lling su rface. The
slow melting and evaporation of the ice moderates the temperature
for more eve n coo kin g.

9 Arrange the onion slices on the cool sid e of the rack, over the pan of
ice. Place the steaks on the o nion sli ces. The on ions act as a buffe r from
the direct heat of the grill rack and the radiant heat of the coa ls. Use
an oven thermometer or infrared thermometer to check the air tem-
perature of th e closed grill at the leve l of the steaks; it shou ld be about
so · c / 176 • f.

10 Cook the steaks covered. Flip and rotate them every 5 minutes, and
remove them from the grill when they reach an internal tempera-
ture of 50 •c / 122 • f for med ium rare, 30-40 minutes. The core tem-
perature cha nges slowly at first, but then rises more quickly. When
the core reaches 43 •c/ 110 •f, check the steaks frequently to avoid
overcooking them . Th e steaks will continu e to cook after they are
removed from the heat, and should reach a final co re temperature
of about 54 •c / 129 •f.

11 Remove the steaks from the grill. Let them rest for 5 minutes.

12 Season the steaks generou sly with sa lt to taste. Sl ice the meat,
and serve it immediately.

STEAK 85
SOUS VIDE LAMB SKEWERS

YIELD : four servings (3 00 g)

TIME ESTIMATE: 10 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 1 hour unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS: so us vide setup (optional), 1 L whipping siphon, four cartridges of nitrous oxide, blowtorch,
metal or bamboo skewers, sumac

Pressure-marinating infuses flavor from a liquid into meat, and it can
tenderize tough cuts in as little as 20 minutes. If you are in a hurry, you
can cook these skewers straight from raw on a hot grill in 3-4 min-
utes. Although lamb loin, which we call for here, is the most flavorful
and tender cut, lamb leg or top round can be used instead. Alterna-
tively, try using beef, pork, chicken, or other meats (see page 80
for cooking temperatures and page 118 for other skewer recipes).
Sumac-a tart, red spice used in Native American and Middle
Eastern cuisines-provides a distinctive flavor in this recipe; you
can find it at Mediterranean markets.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Tomato juice 300 g 320 mL/lY' cu ps 100% 0 Preheat a water bath to 58 •c/136 •F.
Red onion, thinly sliced 75g ?'a cup 25% 0 Com bin e.
Salt 21 g 2Tbsp 7% ® Pour into a 1 Lsiphon, and charge the siphon with two cartridges of
Extra-virgin o live o il 9g 10 mL / 2 tsp 3% nitrous ox id e. Alternatively, marinate the meat, covered, for 6-12 hours,
Garlic, crushed 2 cloves and then sk ip to step 10.
6g 2%
Oregano sp rigs 3g 2-3 sprigs 1%
0 Shake the siph o n well, and then leave it to infuse for 20 minutes .
Rosemary sprigs 3g 1 large sp rig 1%
® De pressurize the siphon carefull y by aiming the nozzle upward and
slow ly releasing th e gas.
Lemon juice 3g 3 mL/Y2 tsp 1%
@ Strain, reserving the marinade. Discard the so lids.
Sumac 0.8g Y. tsp 0.27%
Fresh bay leaves 0.3g 1-21eaves 0.1 %
Lamb loin, cut into 300 g / 0.71b 100% 0 Comb in e with the marinade in a 1 Lsiphon, and charge the siph o n with
2.5 cm/ 1 in cub es two cartridges of nitrous oxide.
® Shake well, and then refrigerate for 20 minutes to mari nate.
® Depress urize the siphon .
@ Remove the meat from the mari nade, and place it in a zip-top bag.
Use the wate r-disp laceme nt method to remove as much ai r as possible
from the bag (see page 6), and sea l it.
@ Cook the meat so us vide to a core temperature of 57 •c / 135 •F, a bout
25 minu tes.
Red pearl on ions, peeled 80 g 8-10 onions 27% @ Cook in boiling water until just cooked through, abo ut 3 minutes.
and cut in half Coo l, and set aside.
@ Thread the lamb pieces and on ion halves onto skewers.
@ Brown the meat by using a blowtorch, or sear it on a grill or in a very hot
saute pan for15 seconds on each side. Serve the skewers hot.
Safety tips far blow/arching: see page 2

TO MAKE AHEAD
After step 13, seal the skewers in zip-top bags.
When ready to serve, heat the skewers in a 58 •c ;
136 •F bath for 15 minutes. Continu e with step 14.

86 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

HOW TO Grind Meat Like a Pro
Best Bets for Hamburger Patties
W hen grin di ng meat fo r b urgers o r sausages, you can achi eve a mu ch
w ide r range of fl avo rs and tex tures by blending t wo o r t hree d ifferent Cook to core
cuts together. Process each kind of meat se parately-i n fac t, it 's also b est Overall temperature
to remove t he fat fro m th e meat, and grind it separately, too-a nd th en Meat bl end (scaling) l eann ess (• c) (• F)
Ingredients
ge ntly mi x th e gro und co mpo nents togeth er at t he end. Th e hamburge r
rare beef fil et mignon 100% 80 % 52 126
patty recipe on t he nex t page ca lls fo r grindin g through a m edium
short-rib meat 45%
p late to p rod uce a texture so m ewhat fin er th an you can get by hand -
short rib short-rib meat 100% 70 % 54 129
cho ppi ng. For eve n fin er grind s, such as t hose ty pica lly used fo r fill er
MCfavorite short-rib meat 100% 75% 54 129
meats o r em ulsio n-style sausages, pass th e meat first t hro ugh a coa rse
aged rib eye 100%
grind ing p late, and th en th ro ugh progressive ly fi ner p lates.
hanger stea k 22%
steak-hou se chuck 100% 75% 56 131
blend sirloin 50 %
fl ank 50%

1 Trim off and d isca rd the sinew, silvers kin, and co nn ective ti ssue.
Se parate any easily removed fat f rom th e meat, an d rese rve it . 6 Grind in small batches. Check th e temperature ofthe grinding p late
with yo ur finger-stop if it gets noticea bl y hot to th e to uch.

2 Cut the meat into 2.5 cm / 1 in cubes.

7 Chill the grinder between batches as necessary by rinsi ng it wi th
ice water.

Chi ll the meat to nea rfreezing (as low as -1•c ; 30 •f). Chill t he fat
3 to below freezing (as low as - 10 •c / 14 • f).
8 Replace the grind ing p late w ith one that has a fi ner aperture, if needed,
and repeat ste ps 4- 7 unt il t he foo d is full y gro und.

4 Rinse the grin de r w ith ice water.

9 Repeat ste ps 4- 8 to gri nd th e fat and any other kin ds of meat th at w ill
3/1•-'A in) or large (1 0 mm /'/8 in) grinding go into the blend.
5 Place a medium (4- 6 mm /
p late in the grind er.

HOW TO Form a Square Hamburger Patty - -- - - - -- - - -- - -- - - - -- - - -

When the hamb u rger was fi rst inve nted, it was a squ are, p resse d pat ty neither too d ense no r too loose-just tight eno ugh to ho ld its shape
on toasted w hi te b read . The tec hniqu e d escrib ed here re-creates th at b ut fri ab le eno ugh to be pl easa nt ly jui cy as it crum b les in you r mo uth .
authentic for m . Yo u can, of course, m ake the patti es ro und if yo u w ill
be servi ng t hem o n bun s. Wh ateve r th e shape, t he patty sho uld b e

In a Loaf Pan o r Baking Tray By Hand or in a Squ are Cake Mold

1 Lin e a loaf pa n or baking tray with pl astic wrap.

1 Di vide the meat into 200 g/ 0.41 b portions. To shape the patty, place
one hand edgewise on th e counter, t hum b up, and use yo ur oth er
hand to press the meat agai nst th e ra ised palm . Rotate four tim es
2 Press the gro und meat into th e pan. Use a rubber spatul a to pack th e
meat even ly. Take ca re not to mash th e meat so mu ch that the patti es
to form a square patt y. If making rou nd patties, cup your upt urned
hand into an arc.
lose their tendern ess. If using a baking t ray, pack th e meat to a d epth
of2.5 cm / 1 in. If using a loaf pan, pack the meat as dee p as the pan
is wide.
2 For clea ner edges, insert th e meat into a cake mo ld, and use a spatu la
to ge ntly work th e meat into the corne rs.

3 Cover th e meat w ith pl asti c wrap. The coverin g guards aga inst oxida-
t ion and p reve nts a skin from form ing o n the meat.
3 Place the patt y on a baking tray, and press d ow n ge ntly w ith yo ur palm
or a rub be r spatul a to fl atten the top and bottom .

4 Put th e meat in a freeze rfor 25 minutes to firm.

5 Slide the meat out of the baking tray, and cut it into sq uares, or remove
it from t he loaf pa n, and slice it into patti es 2.5 cm / 1 in thi ck .

CHEESEBURGER 87
MODERNIST HAMBURGER PATTY
YIELD: four patties, 200 g each
TIME ESTIMATE: 2 hours overall, including 1~ hours ofpreparation and 45 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: meat grinder or stand mixer with meat-grinding attachment, sous vide setup

The extra effort to grind your own meat (see the previous page) pays
off in superior textures and flavors-and it allows you to customize
the leanness and the tenderness. We love a combination of short-rib
meat, rib eye, and hanger steak, but we know people who prefer 100%
short-rib patties. For other options, see the table on the previous page.
We performed many trials to figure out both when to salt the meat
and how much salt to use. More salt makes for bouncier meat, like
a sausage patty, but adding the salt too early can make the burger
tough or rubbery.
Although we briefly deep-fry our patties to create a nice crust
without overcooking the meat, another approach is to use a blow-
torch (see page 14 in the main volume) to sear all the sides of the
patty to a dark brown, 11/2-2 minutes per patty. Alternatively, sear
the patties on a very hot grill for 30 seconds on each side.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Boneless rib eye 360 g/ 0.8 1b 100% CD Trim the fat from the meat, and grind each meat and fat sepa rately
Boneless short-rib meat 360 g/ 0.8 1b 100% through a 4.5 mm /:Y•• in plate.
Hanger steak 80 g / 0 .21b 22% 0 Mix the ground meats and fats together gently, and refrigerate them unti l
1 hour before cooking.
Salt 6.4g 1]/, tsp 1.8% ® Preheat a water bath to 55 °( / 131 °F.
0 Fold the salt gently into the ground beef mixture exactly 1 hour before
cooking.
® Divide the meat into four equal portions, about 200 g / 0.41b each. Form
into square patties that are 2.5 cm / 1 in thick (see the previous page).
Neutral frying oil 20 g 20 mL/ 1V> tsp 5.6% @ Place each patty in a separate zip-top bag with 5 g/ 5 mL/ 1 tsp of oil.
see page viii Remove the air from the bags by using the water-displacement method
(see page 6), and seal them. Do not vacuum seal.
0 Refrigerate until1 hour has passed since adding the salt.
@ Cook sous vide to a core temperature of 54 °C/ 129 oF, about 45 minutes.
Neutral frying o il as needed ® Fill a large, deep pot no more than ha lf fu ll of frying oil, and preheat the
oil to 220 °( / 428 °F.
@ Transfer the patties to a tray lined with paper towels, and pat them dry.
@ Deep-fry the patties one at a time until they turn dark brown and crispy,
about30 seconds each.
@ Drain the patties on paper towels.
Sa lt to taste @ Season the patties generously, and serve them hot.
Safety tipsfordeepfrying: see page 4
Safety tipsfor lightly cookedfood: see page ix

SPECIAL SCALING FOR SALT VARIATION: Firm Burger Patty

If you 're making sma ller or larger batches, determ ine the amount of If you prefer burgers that are richer in flavor and more cohesive, add 15 g
sa lt to use for curing by multiplying 0.8% times the weight of the meat. of egg yo lk (1 yo lk) for every 400 g / 0.9 lb of ground meat at the same time
For example, if making1.6 kg / 3.5 lb of meat, use 12.8 g of sa lt. you add the salt in step 4. Continue with step 5.

88 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HO ME
1 Trim the fat from the rib eye, short-rib meat, and hanger steak, and
then grind each kind of meat and fat separately through a 4.5 mm I
:y,. in plate. For step-by-step instructions, see page 87.
7 Refrigerate untill hour has passed since you added the salt. After an
hour of cu ri ng, the burgers wi ll hold together well while remaining
crumbly and tender to the bite . Overcuring produces a tougher cons is-
tency that is more li ke a sa usage patty.

2 Mix the ground meats and fats together, and refrigerate them until
1 hour before cooking.
8 Cook the patties so us vide to a core temperature of 54 °C/ 129 °F,
about 45 minutes.

3 Preheat a water bath to 55 °( / 131 °F.

9 Fill a large, deep pot no more than halffull offrying o il, a nd pre heat
itto 220 °(/428 °F.
4 Wa it until exactlyl hour before cook ing, note the time, a nd then fold
the salt gently into the ground beef mixture. Salt activates the binding
properties of the meat, and fo lding it in makes the meat more homoge-
neous in texture. Do not stir the meat aggressively or for lo ng periods; 10 Remove the cooked patties from the bags, place them o n a tray
lin ed with pape r towels, a nd pat them dr y.
doing so diminishes its tenderness.

11 Deep-fry each patty indi vidua ll y until it becomes dark brown

5 Weigh and divide the meat into four equal portions of abo ut 200 g /
0.41b each. Form each portion into a square patty 2.5 cm / 1 in th ick.
and crispy, about 30 seconds per patty.

For step-by-step in structions, see page 87. If serving on buns rather

than bread, make the patties round . 12 Drain the fried patties on paper towels.

6 Place each patty in its own zip-top bag, a nd pour 5 g/5 ml/1 tsp of
oi l into each bag. Use the water-d isplacement method (see page 6)
13 Season the patties genero usly with salt, a nd serve them hot.
To make cheeseb urge rs, see page 91.

to remove as much air as possible from the bags, and sea l them. Do
not vacuum sea l the bags, as doing so compresses the meat so much
that it becomes denser and less juicy.

ULTRAFROTHY MILK SHAKE

YIE LD: four to eight servings (1 L/ 4J4 cups)

TIME EST IM ATE: 10 hours overall, including 10 minutes ofpreparation and 1 hour and 20 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES : serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQU IR EMENTS: albumin powder, whey protein isolate, Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder (see page 182)

This shake tastes like the milk itself, so we use fresh raw milk from
a local dairy. You can use regular supermarket milk instead, but it
won't have the same subtle flavors. Use half-and-half, or a mixture
of heavy cream and milk, to make a richer shake.
We garnish this sh ake with Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder, but
good alternatives include cocoa powder, malt powder, and powdered
strawberries. You can also add flavors directly to the milk, for
example b y stirring in 5 g I 5 mL I 1 tsp of vanilla extract to make
a rich vanilla shake. But we prefer the pure milk fl avor.
To avoid any unpleasant flavor, use only high-quality, deodorized
whey protein isolate, available at health-food stores or online.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Fres h, raw whole milk 1 kg 1 L/ 41,4 cups 100% CD Comb ine in a metal or glass bowl, and blend by using a n imm ersio n
Sugar 180 g 11,4 cups 18% blender until the sugar and powders are fu lly incorporated.
Albumin powder 20 g 3Tbsp 2% 0 Refrigerate forl hour to hydrate the powde rs. This step is essential for
the shake to foam properly.
Whey protein iso late lO g 1 Tbsp 1%
Sa lt as needed
0 Prepare an ice bath, and stir lots of sa lt into the bath.
0 Place the container of cooled milk into the sa lted ice bath for 20 minutes.
® Blend the ch ill ed milk at high speed in a blenderfor3 minutes to aerate it.
Freeze-Dried Raspberry lO g 4tsp 1% @ Pour the milk shake into sma ll, chill ed glasses, dust the berry powder
Powder over the shakes, and se rve them imm ediate ly.
see page 182
Safety tips far lightly cookedfood: see page ix

CHEESEBURGER 89
WHITE SANDWICH BREAD

YIELD: one 40 em by 12 em I 16 in by 4 in loaf or two 23 em by 13 em I 9 in by 5 in loaves (1.5 kg)

TIME ESTIMATE: 4 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 3J!2 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 2 days
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: stand mixer with paddle and dough hook attachments, loaf pan, buttermilk powder

We included a recipe for the ultimate burger bun in Modernist Cuisine,
but frankly it requires a lot of work to make. At home, we either
buy top-quality buns or rolls from a local bakery or we take the old-
school-diner approach of making a white bread that we can broil or
pan fry. The juices from the burger combine nicely with the crispy
texture of the toast.
Try this recipe with different flours and flavors, such as a whole
wheat loaf with caramelized onions. Leave the seeds out for a classic
dense, chewy white loaf. It is also a fantastic bread to use for Grilled
Cheese Sandwiches (see page 150), especially if you use one of our
recipes for constructed cheese slices (see page 145).

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 460g 460 ml / 2 cups 54% CD Comb ine in a pot . Warm over low heat, whisking occasiona lly, until the
Unsalted butter 125g o/s cup 15% butter melts and the butterm il k powder is ful ly blended.
Buttermilk powder or 50 g Y., cup 6% 0 Coo l to room temperature.
nonfat milk powder
Cooking spray or oil as needed ® lightly coat the pan with cooking spray or wipe it with oil, and then dust
All-purpose flour as needed the pan with flour.
All-purpose flour 850g 5 cups 100% 0 Measure half(425 g/ 2Y2 cups) ofthe flour into the bowl of a stand mixer
having a paddle attachment. Reserve the remaining flourfor step 8.
Sugar 50g Y., cup 6% ® Combine with the flour in the mixing bowl.
Salt 15g 5tsp 2% @ Mix on low speed while gradually pouring in the buttermilk mixture.
Active dry yeast 3g ltsp 0.4% 0 Beat on low speed for 5 minutes.
Baking soda 1g Y., tsp 0.1%
Reserved flour, 425g 2Y2 cups 50% ® Switch to the dough hook, and continue to mix at low speed. Gradually
from above mix in the remaining flour until it is fully incorporated.
® Knead on medium speed for 8 minutes.
Black sesame seeds 15g 2Tbsp 2% @ Sprinkle in the seeds, mixing at low speed until they are evenly
Poppy seeds 15g 2Tbsp 2% dispersed.
@ Transfer the kneaded dough to a lightly floured work surface. Shape it
into a rectangle about the size and shape of the loaf pan.
@ Place the dough in the prepared pan, and cover it with plastic wrap or
a clean, dry dish towel.
@ let the dough rise in a warm, draft-free environment until it has doubled
in size, 2-3 hours.
@ Preheat the oven to 190 •c / 375 · F.
@ Bake the dough until the top turns evenly golden, 15-20 minutes.
@ Remove the loaf from the pan immediately, put it on a rack, and cool
it completely before slicing.

90 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

1 Combine the water, butter, and buttermilk
powder in a pot. Warm the mixture over low
heat, wh isking occasionally, until the butter
melts and the buttermilk powder is fully
blended.
7 Continue beating on low speed for 5 minutes
more. Gluten, a protein in the flour, develops 12
the structure of the dough as the kneading
progresses.
Place the dough in the prepared pan,
and cover it with plastic wrap or a clean,
dry dish towel.

8 Replace the paddle attachment with a 13 Put the pan in a draft-free place at about
24 oc / 75 oF, a nd allow the dough to rise

2 Remove the mixture from the heat, and

all ow it to coo l to room temperature.
3 Lightly coat the loaf pan wit h cooking spray
or oi l, and dust the pan lightly with fl o ur.
dough hook. Start kneading at medium
speed, and grad ually mix in the remaining
until it has doubled in size, 2- 3 hou rs.
This is a slow-rising dough; don't rush it.
flour until fu lly incorporated . If the dough
doesn't pull away from the sid e of t he bowl
once all the fl our has been mixed in, add
smal l amounts of flour until it does.
14 Preheat the ove n to 190 oc / 375 °F.

4 Measure half of the flour into t he bowl 15 Bake t he b read until the top turns a n
even go ld en color, 15-20 minutes .
of a stand mixer, and reserve t he other
half for step 8. Affix a paddle attachment
9 Knead on medium speed for 8 minutes.

to the mixer.
10 Sprinkle in the seeds, and mix at low
speed until they are eve nl y dispersed.
16 Remove th e bread from the pan imm e -
diately. Set it on a rack, and let it cool
completely before you sli ce it.

5 Comb ine the sugar, salt, dry yeast, and

baking soda with the fl o ur in the mixing
bowl.
6 Mix on low speed while gradually pouring in
the room-tempe rature buttermilk mixture.
11 Transfer the kneaded dough to a lightly
floured work su rface. Shape it into a
recta ngle about the size and shape of the
loafpan. lf you are using two loaf pans,
divide the dough in half before shap ing
the pieces .

MODERNIST CHEESEBURGER
YIELD: four burgers
T IM E ESTIMATE: 10 minutes for assembly of components
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: White Sandwich Bread (see the previous page), Modernist Hamburger Patty (see page 88),
Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice (see page 145), MC Special Sauce (see page 27) or Pressure-
Caramelized Ketchup (see page 30)

The original hamburger was served on toasted white bread with replace them with lettuce, grilled mushrooms, thinly sliced raw
little else. We're paying homage to that tradition, but you can of onions, or thick slices of pickle. Use this guide as a template for
course use store-bought buns instead. If tomatoes are not in season, your favorite burger combinations.

IN GRED IENT WEIGHT VOLUME PROCEDURE

White Sandwich Bread, 8 slices CD Preheat the broiler.
sli ced 1 cm /Vs in thick 0 Brush fat evenly over one side of each slice of bread.
see the previous page
0 Toast the bread, fat-side up, under the broiler until it turns go lde n
Rendered beeffat or as needed brown, about 2 minutes .
unsalted butter, me lted
see page41

Mode rnist Hambu rger 4 patties 0 Place the cooked burger patties on a baking sheet, and top each with
Patty o ne o r two sli ces of cheese.
seepage 88
0 Broil until the cheese melts, 1-2 minutes.
Perfectly Melting Cheese 4-8 sli ces
Slice
see pagel45
MC Special Sauce or BOg 5 Tbsp ® Divide even ly amo ng four slices of the prepared bread, a nd top with
Pressure-Caramelized t he cheeseburger patties and remai ning bread.
Ketchup 0 Serve immed iate ly.
see page 27 or 30
Tomato or sweet onion, 4 th ick slices
sliced

CHEESEBURGER 91
MODERNIST MEATLOAF SANDWICH

YIELD: four sandwiches (about 200 g each)

TIME ESTIMATE: 130 hours overall, including 1 hour ofpreparation and 120 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: meat grinder or stand mixer with meat-grinding attachment, sous vide setup, Sweet Onion Slaw
(see page 69)

Leftover meatloaf often ends up in a sandwich. But we think this
delicious next-day treat is a worthy dish in its own right. We use sev-
eral tricks to make it great. First, salt-cure the meat before grinding
it to draw out the sticky myosin protein that improves the texture of
the meatloaf and reduces the amount of egg needed as a binder. The
meatloaf should be denser and springier than a burger. Second, keep
the meat juicy by cooking it sous vide. And finally, flash-fry each
portion of meat to produce a perfect, just-baked crust. You can sub-
stitute a fatty cut of beef, such as short-rib meat, for the pork to make
an all-beef meatloaf; just keep the overall fat content about the same.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Beef chuck, cut into 400 g/ 0.91b 100% 0 Toss together in a shallow container until thoroughly combined, cover
2.5 cm / 1 in cubes with cheesecloth, and cure in the refrigerator overnight (about 12 hours).
Pork shoulder, cut into 120 g/ 0.31b 30% 0 Grind through a 4.5 mm I y,. in plate.
2.5 em / 1 in cubes
Salt 5g 1Y., tsp 1.25%
Sweet onion, grated 200g 1 cup 50% ® Preh eat a water bath to 60 •c / 140 •F.
Neutral frying oil lOg 10 mL / 2 tsp 2.5% 0 Saute the onion over medium heat until it turns dry but not brown,
see page viii about 12 minutes, and then allow it to coo l.
Ketchup (store-bought) 32g 2Tbsp 8% ® Combine with the cooled onion.
Egg, beaten 20g 1 Tbsp 5% ® Add the ground meat, and mix thoroughly.
Dry bread crumbs lOg 1)1, Tbsp 2.5% 0 Divide the meat mixture into four equa l portions of about 160 g each,
Asian fish sauce lOg 8 mL / Y>Tbsp 2.5% and form into patties2 cm /:Y., in thick.
Dijon mustard 8g 2 tsp 2%
Worcestershire sauce 8g 7 mL / Y>Tbsp 2%
Parmesan, grated 4g 1Tbsp 1%
Black pepper, ground 2g y, tsp 0.5%
Neutral frying oil 20g 20 mL/ 1Y> Tbsp 5% ® Place each patty in a separate zip-top bag with 5 g/ 5 mL / 1 tsp of oi l.
Use the water-displacement method (see page 6) to remove the air
from the bags, and sea l them. Do not vacuum seal.
® Cook so us vide to a co re temperature of 59 •c / 138 •F, about 35 minutes.
Neutral frying oil as needed @ Fill a deep pot with abo ut 5 cm / 2 in of frying oil, and preh eat the oil to
Dry bread crumbs 120 g 1 cup 30% 190 •c / 374 · F.
@ Transfer the cooked patties to a tray lined with paper towels, and pat dry.
@ Coat the warm patties in bread crumbs.
@ Deep-fry the breaded patties one at a time until each turns dark brown
and crisp, about 30 seco nds per patty.
@ Drain the patties on paper towels.
Sweet Onion Slaw 110 g 28% @ Divide the patties and onion slaw even ly among the bread sli ces. Serve
see page 69 immed iately.
White sandwich bread, 8 slices
toasted
see page 90

Safety tipsfar deep frying: see page 4

Safety tipsfar lightly cookedfood: see poge ix

92 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

1 Toss the beef and pork pieces with salt until thoroughly combined.
Place the salted meat in a shallow container, cover it with cheesecloth,
and cure the meat in the refrigerator overnight (about 12 hours). The
cheesecloth keeps the surface of the meat from drying out.

2 Grind the cured meat thro ugh a 4.5 mm / 3/16 in plate.

Preheat a water bath to 60 oC/ 140 °F.

3
4 Saute the onio n in oil ove r medium heat until it becomes dry but not
brown, about 12 minutes. Al low the onion to coo l completely.

5 Combine the cooked onion with the ketchup, beaten egg, bread
crumbs, fish sauce, mustard, Worcestersh ire sauce, Parmesan cheese,
and black pepper.

6 Add the ground meat to the onions and seasonings, and mix them
thorough ly.

7 Form the meatloaf mix into four even patties (round or square) of about
160 g each. We find that patties no more than 2.5 cm / 1 in thick cook
most evenly, and the sandwich is eas iest to eat if the patties are about
2 cm /:Y, in thick.

8 Place each patty in a separate zip-top bag with about 5 g / 5 ml / 1 tsp

of oil. Use the water-disp lacement method (see page 6) to remove
as much air as poss ible from the bags, a nd seal them. Do not vacuum
sea l the bags; you don't want to compress the meat.

9 Cook the patties sous vide to a core temperature of 59 °C/ l38 °F,
about 35 minutes.

10 While the patties cook, pour enough frying oil into a deep pot to
reach a depth of about 5 cm / 2 in. Preheat the o il to 190 oc / 374 °F.
Alternatively, preheat 6 mm / Y., in of o il in a deep-s id ed skil let.

11 Remove the cooked patties from the ir bags, place them on a tray
lined with paper towels, and pat them dry.

12 Coat the warm patties in dry bread crumbs.

13 Deep-fry the breaded patties, one at a time, until each becomes

dark brown and crisp, about 30 seconds per patty (or 30 seconds
per sid e if panfrying).

14 Drain the fried patties on paper towels.

15 Assemble the sandwiches by dividing the hot patties and on ion slaw
evenly among the bread slices. Serve them immediate ly.

CHEE SEBURGER 93
PRESSURE-COOKED CARNITAS

YIELD: six to eight servings (1 kg / 4 cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 1~ hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 1 hour unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cookeTj achiote paste, Brown Pork Stock (see variation on page 10)
GOES WELL WITH: Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales (see page 158), Salsa Verde (see page 31)

Carnitas are traditionally made by slowly cooking big chunks of pieces and use them as a filling for our Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn
pork in vats oflard. Our recipe reduces both the fat and the cooking Tamales. Alternatively, shred the meat and use it to fill burritos or
time-but not the flavor-by using a pressure cooker. We cut pork tacos. If you have a large pressure cooker, consider doubling the
shoulder (commonly called pork butt or Boston butt) into bite-size recipe; carnitas freeze very well.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Boneless, skinless 1.3 kg / 2.91b 100% CD Combine in a pressure cooker.
pork shou ld er, cut into 0 Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 30 minutes. Start
2.5-3 cm / 1-1\'4 in cubes timing when full pressure is reac hed.
Brown Pork Stock 460g 460 mL / 2 cups 35% ® Depressurize the cooker.
see variation on page 10
0 Strain the cooking liquid into a large pot.
Achiote paste 15g 1 Tbsp 1.2% ® Stir into the cooking liquid, and cook over high heat until syrupy, about
store-bought or 25 minutes.
see page 96
® Add the pork to the reduced liquid, and simmer over medium-high heat,
Chipotle chili powder 2.Sg 1 tsp 0.19% gently turning and basting the meat until it turns brown and t he liquid
(optional) reduces to a glaze, about 6 minutes.
Salt to taste 0 Season the glazed pork, and serve it warm.
Lime juice to taste
Fresh cilantro to taste
Chili powder to taste
Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 5

1 Combine the pork shoulder and stock in a pressure cooker. VARIATIONS

2 Pressure-cook the meat at a gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for
30 minutes. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.
So us Vide Carnitas
Vacuum sea l cubes of pork shoulder with frozen cubes of Brown Pork Stock
(see variation on page 10; you can freeze the stock in an ice cube tray),
and cook so us vide at 65 ' C/ 149 ' Ffor 36 hours. (To avoid off-flavors, do
not use a zip-top bag.) Continue w ith step 4. Carn itas cooked so us vide

3 Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it. are moister and less flaky than when pressure-cooked.

4 Strain the cooking liquid into a large pot. If you have time, you can
refrigerate the meat and liquid together overn ight for added flavor.
5 Stir the achiote paste and chil i powder into the cooking liquid, and
cook over high heat to reduce the liquid by at least two-thirds until
it becomes syrupy, about 25 minutes.
Whole Shoulder
Use bone-in, skin-on pork shoulder for added flavor. Combine 1.3 kg /
2.9 1b of pork shou ld er with 460 g / 460 mL / 2 cups of Brown Pork Stock
(see variation on page 10) in a pressure cooker, and pressure-cook at a
gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 2 hours. Depressurize the cooker,
and then carefu lly remove the skin to make Pressure-Cooked Chicharr6n
(see page 96). Discard the bone. Break up the natural muscle groups of
the meat, discarding any excess fat and cartilage. Continue with step 4.

6 Add the pork to t he reduced liquid. Simmer it over medium-high

heat, gently turning and basting the meat until it browns and the
liquid reduces to a glaze, about 6 minutes.

To make shredded carnitas, use two forks to pull the glazed

7 Season the glazed meat with the sa lt, lime juice, fresh ci lantro,
and chi li powder to taste, and serve it warm. pork cubes apart into strands. Shredding is usually done
only for carnitas destined to be a filling for a taco, burrito,
or tamale. Garnish with chili powder and cilantro.

94 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

OTHER BRAISED MEAT AND POULTRY DISHES
Lamb LegTajine Pork Vindaloo with Naan
Boneless lamb leg, cut 1.3 kg / 2.91b Boneless, skinless 1.3 kg / 2.9 lb
into 2.5-3 cm / 1-1Y., in pork shoulder, cut into
cubes 2 .5-3 cm / 1-1Y., in cubes
Brown lamb stock 460g 46 mL/ 2 cups Brown Pork Stock 460g 460 mL / 2 cups
see pagelO see variation on page 10

Neutral frying oil 30 g 30 mL/ 2Tbsp Neutral frying oil 30 g 30 mL/ 2Tbsp
see page viii see page vii i

Yellow onion, minced 160g lY• cups Yellow onion, minced 110g 3,4 cup
Dried apricot, small dice 40g Y. cup Vindaloo Spice Mix 25g 3Tbsp
see variation on page 52
Tomato paste 20g 1 Tbsp
Ginger, min ced 20g 1 Tbsp
Honey 20g 1 Tbsp
Garlic, minced 8g 1 Tbsp
Ginger, minced 15g 2Tbsp
Cinnamon, ground 2 tsp Tomato paste 40g 2y, Tbsp
3g
y, tsp Rice vinegar to taste
Cumin seed, gro und 2g
Black pepper, ground to taste
Lemon zest 0.3g Y. tsp
Salt to taste
Salt to taste
Naan as needed
Fresh mint as needed
Lemon wedges as needed Follow steps 1-4 on the previous page to pressure-cook the pork shou ld er
and pork stock. Cook the strained liquid over medium-high heat until
Follow steps 1- 4 on the previous page to pressure-cook the lamb and
reduced to a syrup. In a large ski llet, sweat the onions, ginger, garlic, and
lamb stock . (Alternatively, cook the lamb so us vide with lamb stock in
Vindaloo Spice Mix in o il over medium heat until the onions and garlic are
a 62 •c / 144 •Fwater bath for 48 hours; see the So us Vide Carnitas vari-
nearly trans lucent. Add the tomato paste, and cook over low heat until
ation on the previous page for details.) Cook the stra ined liquid over
the mixture is nearly dry. Add the reduced syrup, and finish with step 6.
medium-high heat until reduced to a syrup. In a large skillet, sweat the
Season the mixture with rice vinegar, salt, and pepper. Serve the pork and
onion, apricot, tomato paste, honey, ginger, cinnamon, and cum in in the
sauce with warm naan.
oil over medium heat until nearly dry. Add the reduced syrup, and finish
with step 6. Season with lemo n zest and sa lt. Garnish with mint and lemon
wedges. Serve with rice or couscous.

Pork Shoulder Fricassee with Apples and Morels Braised Duck with Steamed Buns
Boneless, ski nless 1.3 kg / 2.91b Duck legs, whole 900 g/ 21b
pork shoulder, cut into Duck stock 300g 300 mL/ 1Y. cups
2.5-3 cm / 1-1Y., in cubes see pagelO
Brown Pork Stock 460g 460 mL/ 2 cups Hoisin sauce 35g 3Tbsp
see variation on page 10 (Lee Kum Kee brand)
Neutral frying oil 30g 30 mL / 2Tbsp Steamed buns as needed
see page viii (store-bo ught)
Leeks, white parts on ly, 100g ,y, cups Scallions, julienned as needed
minced
Follow steps 1-4 on the previous page to pressure-cook the duck legs
Dry morel or porcini 14g '/3cup
mushrooms and duck stock . Remove and discard the duck skin, bones, and cartilage.
Shred the meat, or break it into chunks. At step 5, substitute ho isin sauce
Garlic, minced 7g 2Y. tsp
for the achiote paste and ch ili powder. Finish with step 6. Serve the duck
Thyme 1g 1 sprig
and sauce on warm, steamed buns (available at Asian markets) with
Apple juice 150g 150 mL / 2/3cup julienned scal li ons.
Applejack or apple brandy 100 g 125 mL/Y2 cup
Heavy cream 100 g 110 mL/ y, cup
Black pepper to taste Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps
Salt to taste Boneless short ribs, 900 g / 2 lb
Baguette, toasted 1whole cut into 2.5 cm / 1 in cubes
Green apple, thinly sli ced as needed Brown beef stock 300g 300 mL / 1Y. cups
see pagelO
Follow steps 1-4 on the previous page to pressure-cook the pork shou ld er
Korean Wing Sauce 60g
and pork stock . (Alternatively, cook the pork shou ld er sous vide with pork see page116
stock in a 62 •c / 144 •f water bath for 48 hours; see t he So us Vide Carnitas
Butter lettuce leaves as needed
variation on the previous page for details.) Cook the strained liquid over
medium-high heat until reduced to a syrup. In a la rge skil let, saute the Follow steps 1- 4 on the previous page to pressure-cook the short ribs and
leeks, dried mushrooms, garlic, and thyme in the oi l over medium heat. beef stock. (A lternative ly, cook them so us vid e; see page 99.) Remove
Add the app le juice and applejack, and reduce the liquid to a second and discard the excess fat and carti lage. Shred the meat, or break it into
syrup. Combine the two syrups in the skillet, and finish with step 6. Stir in chunks. At step 5, substitute the Korean Wing Sauce for the ach iote paste
the cream, and season the mixture with salt and pepper. Serve on toasted and chili powder. Finish with step 6. Serve the beef and sauce in lettuce
slices of baguette with sl iced green app le. leaves.

CARNITAS 95
PRESSURE-COOKED CHICHARRON

YIELD: 200 g/ two large sheets or 20 pieces

TIME ESTIMATE: 120 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 12 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps in an airtight container for 1 day after dehydrating and for 2 days after frying
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker, food dehydrator (optional)

Chicharr6n is pork skin that has been dehydrated, fried, and puffed The key to good chicharr6n is drying the skin by just the right
into crackling. It is an addictive snack or garnish: make plenty, or amount before frying it. The dried pieces should at that point flex
it may disappear before it gets to the table. You can buy pork skin slightly, and then snap in half. If they are too moist or too dry, they
from many butchers and at many Asian and Latin American markets. will not puff properly in the hot oil.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 460 g 460 ml / 2 cups 102% 0 Combine in a pressure cooker.
Pork skin 450 g/ 11b 2 large pieces 100% 0 Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 2 hours . Start timing
as soon as full pressure has been reached.
® Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.
0 Strain the skin, and gently scrape any residual fat from it.
® Dehydrate the skin at 63 · c / 145 • f (or as low a temperature as your
oven allows) until the skin flexes slightly before snapping in half, about
10 hours.
Neutral frying oil as needed @ Preheat the frying oil to 190 •c / 375 • f.
see page viii
0 Snip or break the dehydrated skin into even ly sized pieces.
® Deep-fry the pieces until they puff and turn crispy, abo ut 2 minutes.
® Drain on paper towels.
Salt to taste @ Season the skin, and serve it immediately, or store it in an airtight
container.
Safety tips for pressure-cooking: see pageS
Safety tips for deepjrying: see page 4

WHILE YOU ' RE AT IT: Achiote Paste

Annatto seeds 78g y, cup
Pressure-Cooked 40g 3Tbsp
GarlicConfit
see page44
Habaiiero peppers, 25g 2 peppers
seeded and stemmed
Black peppercorns 7g 1 Tbsp
Coriander seeds 2g y, Tbsp
Cum in seeds 2g ltsp
Dried oregano 1g y, Tbsp
Allspice berries 1g 8 berries
Whole cloves 0.7g 8 cloves
Orange juice 124g 125 mL / y, cup
Wh ite wine vin egar 119g 140 mL/'/J cup
Lemon juice SOg 50 mL/Y.. cup
Tequila 4g 5 mL/ 1 tsp
Mix the first nin e ingredients together, and grind in
a coffee grinder. Combine the ground spices with the
orange juice, vinegar, lemon juice, and tequi la in a
blender, and blend until smooth.

96 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

REFRIED BEAN FOAM

YIELD: four servings (665 g/ 3Y-I cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 1J.-:2 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 1 hour unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve the foam immediately; the puree keeps for up to 1 day when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS : pressure cooker, 1 L whipping siphon, three cartridges of nitrous oxide
GOES WELL WITH: Pressure-Cooked Carnitas (see page 94)

This updated version of the classic Mexican dish combines two
Modernist techniques. Pressure-cooking the beans directly from
the dry state and in low-calcium water causes them to burst and
become very tender. We then use a whipping siphon to aerate the
perfectly smooth, pudding-like puree into a foam of unearthly
lightness. To prevent splattering, dispense the foam into a con-
tainer with high sides, and spoon the beans onto the serving
plates. The foam remains stable for only about 10 minutes,
so don't dispense the beans from the siphon until you are ready
to serve them.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Brown Pork Stock or 400g 400 mL / 1'/ 3 cups 267% CD Comb ine in a pressure cooker, and pressure-cook at a gauge pressure
bottled water of1 bar / 15 psi for1 hour. Start timing as soon as ful l pressure has been
see variation on page 10 reached.
Dry pinto beans 150 g :Y., cup 100% 0 Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.
Lard or neutral-tasting oi l 10 g 10 mL / 2Y., tsp 7% ® Allow the beans to cool slightly.
0 Puree the beans and any remaining stock in a blender until smooth,
and pour the puree into a pot.
Heavy cream 100g 110 mL / y, cup 67% ® Whisk into the bean puree until it takes on a pudding-like consistency.
Salt to taste ® Heat the puree over medium heat to 55 ' C/ 131 ' F, and season it ge ner-
ous ly; the flavor will become more delicate when the puree is foamed .
0 Pourthe hot puree into a 1 Lwhipping siphon, and charge the siphon
with three cartridges of nitrous oxide.
® Dispense the foam into a deep container to minimize splattering.
® Spoon the warm foam onto plates.
Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 5

VARIATIONS Refried beans are traditionally made with lard,

Refried Bean Puree but you can easi ly make a vegetarian version
At step 5, add only as much heavy cream as is needed to create the texture ofthis recipe by cooking the beans in bottled
you prefer, and then follow step 6 to season the puree to taste. water or vegetable stock and a neutral-tasting
vegetable oil, such as coconut oi l. The result has
Other Bean Foams a slightly differe nt consistency and flavor from
You can substitute other fats for the lard or substitute other kinds of beans the original.
for the pinto beans; as long as the beans contain enough fat and natural
starches, they will produce a stable foam. Try French flageolet beans with
butter; gigante or lima beans with garlic and olive oil or butter; or chick-
peas with tahini for a hummus-style foam. The puree should be perfectly
smooth and have a texture simi lar to pudding before you pour it into the
siphon.

TO MAKE AHEAD
You can refrigerate the pureed beans for up to 24 hours after step 5. Then
continue with step 6.
After step 7, you can keep the siphon of warm puree in a 50 ' C/ 122 ' F
water bath for up to 1 hour before dispensing the foam.

CARNITAS 97
 PRESSURE- COOKED PORK BELLY ADOBO

YIELD: eight servings (1 .2 kg/ 6 cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 1~ hours overall, including 1 hour ofpreparation and 45 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker

You may remove the skin if you prefer the texture without it. adobo with steamed rice, mashed sweet potatoes (see variation on
Cubed pork shoulder also works as a leaner alternative. Serve the page 100), or roasted sunchokes.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Neutral frying oil or lard 50 g 55 mL /Y.. cup 3.3% 0 Saute over low heat unti l tender and lightly browned, 7-10 minutes.
see page viii
Ye llow onion, grated 550g 2Y' cups 37%
Garlic cloves, crushed lOg 1 Tbsp / 1Y, cloves 0.7%
Fresh pork belly, skin on, 1.5 kg / 3.31b 100% 0 Stir into the onion mixture.
cut into 3.75 cm / 1Y' in ® Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for45 minutes. Start
cubes
timing when full pressure is reached.
Rice vinegar 230g 270 mL/ lYs cups 15% 0 Let the cooker coo l, or run tepid wate r over th e rim, to depressurize it.
Soy sauce 130g 110mL/Y, cup 8.7% ® Lift the meat from the cooking liquid with a slotted spoon, and put it in
Asian fish sauce 85g 70 mL /YJC up 5.7% a frying pan.
Sugar 62g STbsp 4.1% 0 Strain the cooking liqu id into a pot. Skim off as much fat as possible.
Star anise 3g 1-2 pods 0 .2% 0 Transfer 250 g / 250 mL / 1 cup of the cooking liqu id to the pan with
Black peppercorns 0.7g Y.. tsp 0.04% the pork belly, and simmer over medium-high heat, gently turning and
Fresh bay leaves, torn basting the meat until it is glazed, 12-15 minutes .
0.7g 3 1eaves 0.04%
Additional fresh bay 0.7g 31eaves 0.04% ® Add to the pot of remaining cooking liquid, and bring to a boil.
leaves, torn
® Remove from the heat, and let the mixture infuse for 7-10 minutes.
Additional star anise 3g 1-2 pods 0 .2% @ Strain.
Rice vinegar to taste @ Spoon the glazed pork be ll y into serving bowls, pour in the infused
Cracked b lack pepper to taste cooking liquid, and serve warm .
Safety tipsfar pressure-cooking: see page 5

1 Saute the grated onion, crushed garlic, and oil or lard over low heat
until the onion is tender and lightly browned, 7-10 minutes . 7 Transfer 250 g / 250 mL/ 1 cup of cooking liquid to the pan with the
pork belly. Simmer over medium-high heat, gently turning and basting
unti l the meat is brown and the liquid forms a glaze, 12-15 minutes.

2 Combine the pork bel ly, rice vinegar, soy sauce, fish sauce, sugar,
and aromatics with the onion mixture, and stir.
8 Add the additional bay leaves, star anise, vinegar, and pepper to the
pot of cooking liquid. The flavor of the essential oi ls from the bay leaves
weaken during cooking; adding more now enhances the fresh, spicy
3 Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 45 minutes.
Start timing as soon as fu ll pressure has been reached. flavor. Bri ng the liquid to a boi l.

4 Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.
9 Remove the pot from the heat, and let it sit for 7-10 minutes, or until
ready to use, to infuse the flavors.

5 Lift the meat from the cooking liquid with a slotted spoon, and put it
in a frying pan .
10 Strain the infused liquid.

6 Strain the cooking liquid into a pot. Skim off as much fat as poss ib le.
Fat skimmers, sold at kitchen-supply stores, work wel l.
11 Spoon the glazed pork belly into serving d ishes. Pour the infused
liquid over the top, and serve the adobo warm.

TO MAKE AHEAD
After step 4, cool the pressure-cooked pork belly and cooking juices in the
refrigerator overnight, or freeze them. Gently reheat, and continue with
stepS.
VAR IATI ON: Sous Vid e Pork Be lly Ad obo
Cooking the pork belly so us vide yields a juicier, less flaky texture than
pressure-cooking does . At step 3, vacuum seal the pieces of pork be lly and
sauce mixture. Cook sous vide at 62 •c / 144 •Ffor 48 hours. Continue with
step 6 .

98 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

BRAISED SHORT RIBS

YIELD: Jour servings (600 g; one boneless rib per serving)

TIME ESTIMATE: 3 days overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 72 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 3 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup, vacuum sealer., Red Wine Glaze (see page 20)
GOES WELL WITH: Potato Puree (see the next page)

Short ribs cooked so us vide are, in a word, awesome. By varying
the cooking time and temperature, you can produce dramatically
different results in texture. If you want short ribs that have the color
and texture of a medium-rare steak, cook them sous vide at 58 •c I
136 •p for 72 hours. If you want the ribs fork-tender but still pink,
increase the temperature to 62 •c I 144 •p, and cook for 72 hours,
as we do here. (Don't brown the meat before cooking it for such
a long time, as that causes off-flavors.) The ribs take on a more
traditional braised texture and color when cooked at temperatures
higher than this. It is essential to vacuum seal the meat when
cooking it for such a long timej see page 6 for more details. Both
bone-in and boneless short ribs work in this recipe.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Beef short ribs, bone in 1.2 kg / 2.61b 4 ribs 100% CD Preheat a water bath to 62 •c / 144 •F.
or boneless 0 Vacuum seal, and cook so us vide for 72 hours.
® Slice the meat from the bone.
Red Wine Glaze 200g \12 cup 17% 0 Bring the glaze to a simmer in a pot.
see page20 ® Add the meat, and baste for 1 minute to glaze.
Salt to taste ® Season, and serve warm.

TO MAKE AHEAD
After cooking the ribs in step 2, plunge the bag into an ice bath to coo l Vacuum seal the slices, and reheat them for 30 minutes in a water bath set
the meat comp lete ly, and then refrigerate it in the sealed bag. To reheat to the same temperature used to cook the ribs. Then continue with step 4.
the ribs, remove them from the bag, and sli ce the meat from the bones.

Best Bets for Cooking Tough Cuts of Meat

To cook the tough cuts of meat listed below so us vide, select a texture, all ow it to coo l in its juices to serving temperature. Tough meats require a
preheat a water bath to the temperature given, vacuum seal the meat, and lot of cooking, which means either high temperatures or very long cooking
then cook so us vide for the time indicated. Alternatively, pressure-cook times at low temperatures. For more on cooking sous vide, see page 50 in
the meat at a gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for the time indi cated, and then the main volume. For more on pressure-cooking, see page 5.

Cook so us vide
Tender, yielding Tender, flaky Very flaky Pressure-cook
Ingredient (• C) (• F) (h) (•c) (° F) (h) (• c) (• F) (h) (m in) Note See page
beef short rib 58 136 72 62 144 72 88 190 7 50 use bone-in when availab le; texture is above
65 149 24 best when carved just before serving
beef brisket 60 140 72 63 145 72 70 158 72 40 use the fattier, thick end of the brisket,
ca ll ed the nose, especially when
pressure-cooking
oxtail, jointed 60 140 100 65 149 48 70 158 24 70 remove meat from the bone while warm
lamb shank 62 144 48 85 185 5 88 190 5 60 remove silverskin before cooking 104
lamb shoulder, 62 144 48 65 149 24 85 185 5 40 coat meat with 5% olive oil and 0.1 %
cut into large thyme to prevent strong lamb notes from
cubes developing
pork belly 65 149 36 70 158 18 88 190 8 50 for firm texture, cure with the brine from 102
step 1 on page 102 before cooking
pork shoulder 60 140 72 65 149 36 84 183 4 30 use the more marbled, darker muscles 94
or fresh ham, when availab le
cut into 2.5 em I
1 in cubes
pork ribs 60 140 48 65 149 48 75 167 7 35 serve with our Grilling Spice Mix (see
page 53)
(temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)

BRAISED SHORT RIBS 99

POTATO PUREE

YIELD: four to six servings (630 g/2~ cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 2 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 1~ hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 2 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS : sous vide setup, ricer

Traditional fluffy mashed potatoes are best made with starchy
varieties, such as the Russet or the Maris Piper. Adding just enough
liquid and fat to moisten the mixture is all that is needed to finish
the dish . To obtain a silky texture, in the style of the French pommes
puree, choose waxy potatoes, such as Yukon Gold or fingerlings.
The real secret to a great potato puree, as revealed by food writer
Jeffrey Steingarten and chef Heston Blumenthal, is a heat treatment
prior to cooking that gelatinizes the starch and stabilizes the starch
granules. It is also important to be gentle so as to rupture as few of
the granules as possible when making the puree. Sieve the potatoes
slowly- never use a food processor-and add lots of fat to prevent
any freed starch from forming a sticky puree.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Yukon Gold potatoes, 500g abo ut 4 potatoes 100% CD Preheat a water bath to 70 °( / 158 °F.
peeled
0 Cut the potatoes into 2.5 cm / 1 in pieces.
Water 1 kg 1 L/ 4Y., cups 200% ® Combine the potatoes and water in a zip-top bag, remove as much air
as possible from the bag (see page 6), and seal it.
0 Cook so us vide for 35 minutes.
® Drain the waterfrom the bag, and refrigerate the potatoes, uncovered,
until comp letely cooled, about 30 minutes.
Water as needed @ Transfer the potatoes to a pot, and cover with water.
0 Bring the water to a boil. Reduce the heat, and simmer until just tender,
about 25 minutes.
® Drain the potatoes, and pass them through a ri cer.
Unsalted butter, cubed, 200 g 1:Y., cups 40% ® Stir into the potatoes. Optionally, for a finer texture, pass the potatoes
room temperature through a fine sieve into a bowl holding the butter. Mix well .
Heavy cream or 125g 140 ml / y, cup 25% @ Stir the hot cream or milk into the potatoes.
whole milk, brought
to a simmer
® Warm the mixture in a saucepan over medium-low heat until hot,
stirring often with a spatula to prevent stick ing.
Salt to taste @ Season, and serve warm.

This recipe is our homage to the chefs and passionate food writers who have
spent a great deal oftime refining the simple but incredible staple of creamy
mashed potatoes. joel Robuchon introduced the technique of fine sieving,
and both Heston Blumenthal and Jeffrey Steingarten developed the step of
cook ing so us vide that pregelatinizes the potatoes.
The ratio of potatoes to fat and liquid determines the texture of mashed
potatoes. Classic recipes use up to half butter; this recipe ca lls for about a
2:5 ratio. If that is still too much butter for you, simply use less, or substitute
olive oi l or rendered chicken, pork, or veal fat for up to half of the butter
added at step 9.

VARIATIONS TO MAKE AHEAD

Infused-Cream Potato Puree After mixing the potatoes and butter in step 9, refrigerate until ready
For a bolder potato flavor, reserve the potato peels, and add them to to serve. Then continue with step 10.
the heavy cream. Bring them to a simme r, and then remove from the heat
and cover. Letthem infuse for 30 minutes. Then strain the skins, and use
the cream in step 10. Dried mushrooms (porcin i, morel, or sh iitake) can
be steeped in this cream before step 10 to create a version of the classic
French dish pommes forestieres.

Garlic Mashed Potatoes

At step 11, fold in 200 g of pureed Pressure-Cooked Garlic Confit
(see page 44).

Sweet Potato Puree

Substitute satsuma-imo or sweet potatoes for Yukon Golds.

100 MODERNIST CU ISINE AT HOME

1 Preheat a water bath to 70 °C/ 158 °F.

2 Cut the potatoes into pieces about 2.5 cm / 1 in thick and wide.

3 Place the potatoes and water into a zip-top bag, remove as much air
as possible from the bag (see page 6), and seal it.

4 Cook sous vide for 35 minutes. Th is sets the starch to help prevent the
potatoes from becoming sticky, but it does not fully cook them.

5 Open the bag, and drain out the water. Refrigerate the potatoes,
uncovered, until they have coo led completely, about 30 minutes.

6 Transfer the potatoes to a pot. Pour in enough water to cover them .

7 Bring the water to a boil. Reduce the heat, and simmer until the
potatoes are tender throughout, about 25 minutes. To ensure that
the potatoes are tender enough to puree, insert a skewer t hrough
the thickest potato: there should be no resistance.

8 Drain the potatoes, and pass them through a ricer. A food mill works
well, too.

9 Stir the butter into the potatoes . Optionally, for a finer texture, arrange
a tam is or fine sieve over a bowl containing t he cubed butter. Then use
a thick rubber spatula or rubber bench scraper to pass the potatoes
through the sieve and into the butter. Mix we ll.

10 Stir the hot cream or milk into the potato puree . You can adjust the
consistency by adding more cream or milk to your liking.

11 Warm the mixture in a saucepan over medium-low heat until it is

hot, stirring often with a spatula to prevent sticking.

12 Season the puree with sa lt to taste, and serve it warm.

BRAISED SHORT RIBS 101

 PORK BELLY B.L.T.

YIELD: four sandwiches (1.2 kg/ 2.6lb of cooked pork belly)

TIME ESTIMATE : 50 days overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 132 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES : cooked pork belly keeps for 3 days when refrigerated; serve assembled sandwich immediately
LEVEL OF DIFF ICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup, vacuum sealer, Insta Cure #l (optional), Bacon Mayonnaise (see variation
on page 25)

Our twist on a traditional B.L.T. substitutes a crispy yet tender pork
belly for crunchy bacon. Brining the pork belly helps the meat retain
its reddish color, firms its texture, and changes its flavor (think ham
or corned beef). Even if you omit the brine, or buy prebrined belly
from the store, the result is delicious, altho ugh different.
Bacon mayonnaise adds a bit of smokiness to the sandwich.
If top-quality tomatoes are unavailable, use roasted onion, fresh
apple or pear, or sauteed mushrooms instead. Or try our Tomato
Confit (see page 46). Use leftover pork belly in stews or to enrich
vegetable side dishes.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCA LING PROCEDURE

Water 1 kg 1 L/ 4\4 cups 67% CD Mix until fu lly dissolved to make a brine.
Salt 70 g y, cup 4.7%
Sugar 30 g 3Tbsp 2%
lnsta Cure #1 (optional) 30 g 2%
Fresh pork belly, skin on 1.5 kg / 3.3 1b 100% 0 Place the pork belly and brin e in a zip-top bag, remove as much air as
possible, and sea l. Refrigerate for 72 hours, flipping the bag once a day.
® Remove the belly from the brine, rinse it thorough ly, and pat it dry.
0 Vacuum seal the belly. Refrigerate it for 24 hours to let the brin e now
inside the belly equilibrate.
® Preheat a water bath to 65 ' C/ 149 ' F.
@ Cook the pork belly sous vide for 36 hours.
0 Plunge the bag in ice water to cool, and then refrigerate it until fully
chilled, at least 4 hours.
Cooked pork belly, as desired ® Cut the pork be ll y into slices 1.5 cm /'/a in thick.
from above ® Heat a th in film of oi l in a frying pan over high heat until very hot. Sear
Neutral frying oil as needed the pork on one side on ly until crispy, go lden brown, and just warmed
see page viii through, about 2 minutes.
White bread, toasted 8 sli ces @ Spread the bacon mayonnaise on each sli ce of toast.
Bacon Mayonnaise 60g Y., cup 4% @ Top with the seared pork belly.
see variation on page 25

Cucumber, peeled and sliced 20 thin sli ces @ Divide even ly among the sandwiches, and serve immediately.
Tomato, sliced 12-16 sli ces
Avocado, sliced 12 thin slices
Bibb or Boston lettuce 4-81eaves

VARIATIONS TO MAKE AHEAD

Pressure-Coo ked Pork Belly After coo ling the pork belly in step 7, remove from the ice bath, keep ing the
If you're in a hurry, you can pressure-cook the meat, which produces a pork sealed, and refrigerate it for up to 3 days. Then continue wit h step 8.
braised texture. Sk ip the curing step. The res ult is quite differe nt from the
sous vide version, but still very good. Pressure-cook the belly at a gauge
pressure ofl bar / 15 ps i fo r 50 minutes. Coo l the meat comp lete ly before
sli cing and searing it; otherwise, it will fall apart. Alternat ively, make a
slop py-joe-style B. L.T. by shredding the meat and frying it.

Smoked Baco n B.L.T.

Begin at step 5, and use a slab of smoked bacon in step 6. Because of th e
strong cure used to create bacon, the texture will be less tender, but the
flavor is tasty. Cook the bacon so us vide at 65 ' C/ 149 ' Ffor 12 hours, and
sli ce it as in step 8.

102 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

1 Mix the water, sa lt, sugar, a nd lnsta Cure #1 until they have dissolved
complete ly to make a brine. The lnsta Cure is optio nal but helps
preserve the co lor of the meat wh il e it cooks . Do not substitute
lnsta Cure #2.

2 Place the pork belly in a large (4 L/ 1 gal) zip-top bag, pour in t he

brine, remove as much air as possible from the bag, and sea l it.
Refrigerate for 72 hours, flippin g the bag each day to ensure that
the pork cures evenly.

3 Remove the pork belly from the brine, rinse it under running water,
and pat it dry.

4 Vacuum seal the pork belly, and refrigerate itfor24 hours to a ll ow

the brine in the pork to diffuse evenly throughout the meat.

5 Preheat a water bath to 65 ' C/ 149 ' F.

6 Cook the pork belly sous vide for 36 hours.

7 Plunge the bag in ice water to cool the meat, and then refrigerate the
meat in t he bag until it is thoroughly ch illed .

8 Cu t the pork belly into slices 1.5 cm /o/e in thick.

9 Heat a thin film of o il in a frying pan over high heat until it smokes.
Sear the pork belly on one side on ly until it turns a crispy, go ld en
brown and is just warmed through, abo ut 2 minutes.

10 Spread bacon mayonnaise over the sl ices oftoast. For added flavor,
panfry the bread in bacon fat instead of toasting it.

11 Top the bread with the seared pork belly.

12 Divide the cucumber, tomato, avocado slices, and lettuce even ly

among the sandwiches, and serve immediately.

BRAISED SHORT RIBS 10 3

LAMB CURRY
YIELD: Jour servings (850 g/ 4 cups)
TIME ESTIMATE: 2 days overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 48 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 2 days when refrigerated or up to 3 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFIC ULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup, vacuum sealer, Mughal Curry Sauce (page 26)

One frequent complaint voiced about lamb is that it has a strong the fresh flavor, you must vacuum seal the meat before cooking it
gamey flavor. The reason this flavor develops is that lamb fat is sou s vide. To make a delicious lamb st ew, try replacing the curry
fragile and tends to oxidize quickly- the same reason that reheated with our Mushroom Jus (see page 15), thinly sliced onions, and
lamb can develop a n unappealing, warmed-over flavor. To preserve fresh spinach.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Lamb shanks, bone in 1.4 kg / 31b 2 1arge or 100% CD Pre heat a water bath to 62 •c / 144 •F.
4small 0 Trim th e fat and silve rsk in from the lamb sha nks.
Neutral-tasting oil 40 g 45 mL /3 Tbsp 3% ® Vacuum seal the lamb shanks individua ll y with e qu a l amounts of oil.
@) Cook so us vide for 48 hours.
® Remove the meat from the bone, discarding any fat and gristle. Trim t he
meat into bite-size pieces.
Mughal Curry Sauce 350 g 1Y.. cups 25% 0 Warm the sauce in a large pot to the cooking tempe rature of the lamb.
see page26
0 Stir in t he prepared lamb, a nd wa rm gently until heated through.
Sa lt to taste ® Season the curr y.
Dates, thinly s li ced 50 g y, cup 4% ® Garn ish the curry, and serve it warm.
Mint leaves, ju li en ne d 2g 12 sma ll leaves 0.1 %

TO MAKE AHEAD
After breaking up the meat in step 5, refrige rate it until ready to use. 1 Preheat a water bath to 62 •c / 144 •F.

Then co ntinu e wi th step 6.

VARIATIONS
2 Trim the fat and si lverskin from the la mb shanks. Even when cooked
sous vid e, silversk in -on any meat-never becomes tender.

Pressure-Cooke d Lamb Shanks

Pressure-cooking the lam b yie lds a textu re similar to traditional braising
but is much faster. Comb in e the la mb sha nks and 100 g / 100 mL / '/a cup
3 Place each lamb shank in a separate bag with o il, and vacuum sea l it.

of water in a pressure cooker, and pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of

1 bar / 15 psi fo r1 hour. Strain, add the coo king liquid into the Mughal cu rr y
sauce, and simm er for 10 minutes. Follow step 5 to debone t he shanks.
4 Cook the shanks so us vide for 48 hours. Make sure the bags stay
submerged.

Contin ue with step 7.

Whole La mb Shank
To se rve the lamb sha nk w hole, cook as indi cate d through ste p 4, saving
5 Remove the meat from the bone. Discard any fat and gristle. While t he
lamb is still warm, sepa rate t he muscles by hand, a nd then cut the meat
into bite-size pieces or break it up by using a fork.
the cook ing juices. Sear the cooked shanks until they turn deep brown by
deep-frying them in very hot oil or by using a blowtorch (see page 2).
Clean the bone for a nicer presentation. Strain the reserved cook ingj uices,
and reduce them to add another layer of comp lex ity to the sauce.
6 Warm the Mughal curry sauce in a large pot . Use a thermometer to
ensure that the sauce does not get hotter than the cooking tempera-
ture of t he lamb.

7 Stir the prepared lamb into t he sa uce. Wa rm it gently until it has heated
th rough.

8 Seaso n the curr y with sa lt to taste.

9 Garnish the curry with dates and mint, a nd serve it warm.

104 MODERNIST CUISIN E AT HOME

SLOW-BAKED CHICKEN WITH ONIONS

YIELD: jour servings (900 g)

TIME ESTIMATE: 30 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 3 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: brine injector or syringe, digital thermometer with oven-safe probe

One of the easiest ways to enjoy superjuicy meat with crisp golden bird at low temperature. Although you can buy chicken breasts
skin is to brine chicken pieces, cook them smothered in shaved and thighs from your butcher, it's better to buy a high-qualitywhole
onions, and then panfry their skin. The onions not only add flavor chicken, and to cut it up yourself. You' ll save money, and you can
but also prevent the poultry from drying out as you slow-cook the use the remaining parts in other recipes.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Water
Salt
Whole ch icken, or
two bone-in thighs and
two skin-on breasts
Sweet onion, sliced
paperthin on a
mandoline
Cooking spray or
neutral-tasting oil
Neutral frying oil
see page viii
Salt
200 g 200 mL /% cup 13% CD Preheat the oven to 75 •c / 170 •F; if your oven doesn't offer a setting this
12 g 1 Tbsp 0.8% low, use the lowest setting available.
0 Mix until fully dissolved to make the brine.
1.5 kg / 3.3 lb 1 small roaster 100% ® Remove the thighs and breasts from the chicken . Try to keep the skin
intact.
0 Inject the brine as even ly as possible into the chicken parts without
piercing the skin.
300 g 3 cups 20% 0 Pat the chicken skin dry, coat it lightly with cooking spray or oil, and then
(lY, medium onions) arrange the pieces, skin-side down, on a baking rack over a sheet pan.
@ Cover the chicken pieces evenly with a thick layer of shaved onions, and
as needed then insert the oven-safe probe of a digital thermometer into the center
of the thickest breast piece.
0 Bake the breasts to a core temperature of 60 •c / 140 •F, about 3 hours,
and then hold them at this temperature for 20 minutes more. Cook the
thighs to a core temperature of 65 •c / 149 •F, about15 minutes more.
® Remove the onions, and set them aside for use in step 10.
as needed ® Heat the oil in a large pan over medium-high heat, and then pan fry
the chicken, skin-side down only, until the skin turns brown and crisp,
as needed 2- 3 minutes .
@ Remove the chicken, reduce the heat to medium, and cook the reserved
onions in the oil until caramelized, about 2 minutes.
@ Slice the chicken, season it, and serve it hot with the caramelized onions.
Safety tipsfar lightly cookedfood: see page ix

1 Preheat the oven to 75 •c / 170 •F; use an oven-safe thermometer to

check the temperature (see page 8 in the main volume). If your oven
doesn 't allow such low settings, use the lowest temperature available.
2 Make the brine by stirring the salt into the water until it dissolves fully.
7 Bake the breasts to a core temperature of 60 •c / 140 •F, about 3 hours,
and then hold them at this temperature for another 20 minutes . Cook
the thighs to a core temperature of65 · c / 149 •F, about 15 minutes
more. Increasing hum idity in the oven may cause the core temperature
to stop rising after 2-3 hours; if that happens, increase the oven tem-
perature by 5 · c / 10 •F.

3 Cut the thighs and breasts from the chicken while taking care to keep
the skin intact. Save the legs, wings, and back for another use.
8 Remove the onions, and set them aside for use in step 10.

4 Fill a brine injector or syringe with the brine, and inj ect it into the
thighs and breasts as evenly as you can without piercing the skin.
9 Heat the oil in a large pan over medium-high heat until hot, and then
sear th e chicken, skin-side down only, until the skin becomes brown
and crispy, 2-3 minutes .

5 Pat the skin dry. Place a baking rack or a clean, dry towel in a sheet pan.
Coat the skin lightly with oil, and then arrange the pieces, skin-side
10 Remove the chicken from the pan, and reduce the heat to medium.
Cook the reserved onions in the same cooking oi l until they cara-
down, on the rack or towel.
me lize, about 2 minutes.

6 Cover the chicken pieces with a thick, even layer of shaved onions.
Insert the oven-safe probe of a digital thermometer into the center
11 Slice the chicken, and serve it with the caramelized onions. Season
the dish with additional salt to taste.
of the thickest piece.

ROAST CHICKEN 105

 ROAST CHICKEN

YIELD: four to eight servings (1.5 kg)

TIME ESTIMATE: about 29 hours overall, including 1 hour ofpreparation and 18-28 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: advanced (special handling and precise temperatures)
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: brine injector or syringe, digital thermometer with oven-safe probe
GOES WELL WITH: Home Jus Gras (see page 17), Pan Gravy (see page 18)

This recipe requires advanced planning, patience, and a little properly. Soy sauce is not a traditional ingredient in roast chicken,
practice; it is not something you would make every day. But for but it acts as a drying and browning agent for the skin and also adds
special occasions, this roast chicken is simply amazing. It's especially a great savory flavor. For an even deeper color, stir S g / lh tsp of
important to calibrate your oven (see page 4) to make this recipe sweet paprika into the soy sauce before step 9.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Whole chicken 2 kg / 4.41b 1 med ium roaster 100% 0 Cut away the wishbone.
0 French th e ch icken legs by cutting the skin in a circle a round the leg
bon e at the end of the leg, using the back of th e knife to press the meaty
parts toward the body to expose the bone, and then cutting the joints
off the e nds of the ex posed leg bones.
Water 200 g 200 mL /1'• cup 10% ® Mix until completely dissolved to ma ke a brine.
Sa lt 12 g 1 Tbsp 0.6% 0 Inject 70 mL /Y. cup ofthe brine into each breast, and inj ectt he rest of
the brine into the thighs and legs. Try not to pierce the skin .
Soy sauce 20 g 15 mL / 1 Tbsp 1% ® Bring a la rge pot of water to a boil, a nd arrange a n ice-wate r bath
alongside. Both must be la rge enough to fully submerge the chicken .
0 Plunge the chicken into th e boi ling water, blanch it for 20 seco nds,
and th en plunge it into the ice water for 20 seconds.
0 Re peat ste ps 5 and 6 two more times .
® Pat the ch icken dry with pa per towels .
® Brush it even ly with soy sauce .
@ Refrigerate it on a rack, uncove red, overnight or fo r up to 24 hours.
Cooking spray or as needed @ Preheat the oven to 95 •c / 205 •F.
neutral frying oil
@ Arrange a rack on a baking sheet, and spray both with cooking spray or
see page viii
brush them lightly with oil. Place the chicken on the rack, a nd insert the
probe of a digital thermomete r into the center of the thickest pi ece.
@ Wrap the exposed leg bones tightly in aluminum foil, and bake the
chicken to a core temperature of 60 •c / 140 •F, 3-4 hours .
@ Allow the chicken to rest at room temperature for45 minutes.
Neutral frying oil or 30 g 30 mL / 2Y> Tbsp 1.5% @ Arrange a n oven rack so that the top of the chicken will be 6 cm / 2:Y. in
clarified, unsalted butter from the upper heat source.
see page 37
@ Preheatthe broilerto high.
@ Brush the chicken with oil, and place it on the rack breast-side down.
@ Bro il until the skin turns brown and crisp, 5- 6 minutes.
@ Turn the chicken over, and broil it breast-side up until the sk in turns
brown and crisp, 4-5 minutes.
@ Se rve the chicken hot.
Safety tipsfor lightly cookedfood: see page ix

During the refrigeration period, the brine equilibrates and the ski n dries in
the air- both of which help to produce a moist inte rior and a crispy exte rior.

106 MODERNIST CU ISINE AT HOME

1 Cut away the wishbone by using a sharp boning knife. Avo id damaging
the skin or cutting into the breast. This step helps heat flow even ly into 10 Put t he ch icken on a lightly oiled rack, and place it, uncovered,
in the refrigerator for 12-24 hours.
t he bird and makes it easier to carve the roast chi cken .

11 Preheat the oven to 95 •c / 205 •F. Use the convecti on baking mode,

2 French t he leg bones. First, make a cut perp endi cular to th e bone and
through th e skin 2.5 cm / 1 in from the end of each leg. Continue the
if ava ilable on your oven.

incision around the bone to release the skin. Next, use the back ofthe
knife to push the skin up toward the body, exposing the bone. Cut off
the joint at t he end of each leg. Frenching t he legs helps heat move into
12 Arrange a rack on a baking sheet, and coat both w ith cook ing spray
or brush them with oil. Place the chicken on the rack . Insert a digital
probe thermometer into the center of the thickest piece.
the th igh meat.

3 M ix the sa lt into th e water, and stir until it has dissolved comp letely. 13 Wrap the exposed leg bones tightly in aluminum foi l to enhance
heat transfer and prevent burn-ing. Bake the chicken in the oven
Th is is the brine. until the core temperature reaches 60 •c / 140 •F, 3-4 hours.

4 Inject 70 ml / Y.. cup ofthe brine into each breast, and then inj ect the
rest of the brine into the t highs and legs . Try not to pierce the skin; 14 Remove t he chi cken from t he oven, and all ow it to rest for 45 min-
utes at room temperature. Our experiments found that th e juiciness
otherwise, it may tear during cooki ng, and leaking juices will soak t he of the carved chi cken peaks after a 45-minute rest.
skin and make it less cri spy. For more details on where to inj ect th e
brine, see page 50.

15 Arrange the oven rack at a height that will place the top of the
chicken abo ut 6 cm / 2% in from the heat source at the top of

5 Bring a large pot ofwate rto a boil, and arrange a bath of ice water
alongsid e. Both must be large enough to allow you to submerge the
the broiler.

chicken fully.
Pre heat the broilerto high.
16
6 Fully subme rge t he ch icken in boiling water for 20 seconds to blanch
it, and then immediately plunge it into the ice water for 20 seco nds.
17 Brush oi l or clarified butter even ly over the entire chi cken, and
arrange it on the rack, breast-side down.
A large perforated skimm er or "spider" is t he best tool for this step.
The sk in becomes ve ry fragil e after this step, so take care not to
Broil the chi cken until the sk in on the back becomes brown and
tear it.
18 crisp, 5-6 minutes.

7 Repeat the blanch-and-chill process in step 6 twice more. This tech-

nique rend ers some of the fat and tightens the skin, which yield s a
19 Turn the chicken ove r, and continue broiling, breast-side up, until
crispier roast ch icken. the skin on the front turns brown and crisp, 4- 5 minutes.

8 Pat the chicken dry with paper towels to remove excess moisture. 2o Carve the roast ch icken, and serve it hot. The skin is crisp iest when it
emerges from the oven, so do not rest the bird agai n before serving.

9 Brush soy sauce even ly over the chicken to improve the co lor and aid
in crisp ing. You can add 5 g / Y2 tsp of paprika to the soy sauce to give
the bird a more amber color.

VARIATIONS
Extra-Juicy Chicken
Pincushion Chicken Add 2.5 cm / 1 in of wate r in a separate pan at step 12, and place it in the
It may seem a tad brutal, but an effective way to cond uct more heat
bottom of the oven, below the baking sheet. Add an extra hourto the
toward the thighs of the ch icken without overcooking its juicy breasts
cooking t im e in step 13; yo ur patience will be rewarded . Remove the pan
is to push 12 steel finish ing nails into each thigh until they contact the bone.
of water at step 15.
Do this at step 12; the nails should fit t hrough t he rack . The thigh meat can
then be cooked more fully while the breast meat remains extreme ly j ui cy. Spatchcock Chicken
Try this variation for your next Hall oween dinner. After step 8, remove the backbone with kitchen shears, and then carefully
flatten t he ch icken. Conti nue w ith the remain ing steps, but broil skin-s id e
D ee p-Fri e d Chicken
up on ly. You do not need to french th e bones .
You can use a deep fryer rat her than the broiler to brown and crisp the
sk in on the cooked chi cke n. Fill a deep stock pot no more than half full Combi Ove n Roast Chicken
with neutral frying oi l (see page vii i). Preheat the oi l to 220 •c ; 428 •F. If you have a home comb i ove n that accurately holds low temperatu res,
Afte r step 14, lower the ch icken carefu lly into the hot oil, breast-side down. the n cook the ch icken at step 13 in convection mode at 62 •c / 144 •F.
Use cauti on to avoid splatters. Deep-fry t he w hole chi cken unti l th e sk in A medium-size roaster takes 3- 3Y2 hours to cook at this temperature.
browns, about 2 minutes. Drain it, and serve it hot. See page 4 fo r
safety information about deep-frying.

ROAST CHICKEN 107

SOUS VIDE CHICKEN

YIELD : four servings (600 g)

TIM E ESTIMATE: 20 hours overall using one bath (or H4 hours using two baths), including 10 minutes ofpreparation
and the remainder unattended
STORAGE NOTES : keeps for 3 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: so us vide setup (two baths are ideal)

Chicken tastes fantastic when cooked sous vide; we almost always add the slices immediately after step 7, or keep the skin on and pan-
use this technique to cook chicken for soups and salads. To use this sear it in hot oil. We brown the meat when serving it in a robust,
chicken in our Chicken Noodle Soup recipe on page 119, either brown chicken stock (see variation on page 9).

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Boneless chi cken breast, 400 g / 0.9 lb 1 breast 100% CD Preheat a water bath to 65 •c / 149 •F.
sk in on
0 Place each piece of chicken in a separate zip-top bag with 10 g / 10 mL/
Chicken thighs, whole, 300 g / 0 .7lb 2 thighs 75% 2 tsp of oil. Remove as much air as poss ible from the bag by using the
bone in, skin on water-disp lacement method (see page 6), and seal it.
Neutral-tasting oil 30 g 30 mL/ 2 Tbsp 7.5% ® Cook the thighs so us vide for 90 minutes, and then cool.
0 Reduce the temperature of the bath to 62 •c / 144 •F.
® Cook the breast meat so us vide to a core temperature of 60 •c / 140 •F,
about 40 minutes . Hold for another 20 minutes to pasteurize.
® Return the thighs to the bath 10 minutes before the breast meat is done.
0 Remove the skin and bones from the chicken pieces, and cut the meat
into sl ices 1 cm /'/o in thick. Serve warm or cold.
Safety tipsfor lightly cookedfood: see page ix

1 Preheat a water bath to 65 •c / 149 •F. If you

have a second bath, see the instruction
at right.
2 Place each piece of chicken in a separate zip-
top bag with 10 g / 10 mL/ 2 tsp of oil. Use the
water-displacement method (see page 6)
to remove as much air as possible from the
bag, and sea l it.
3 Cook the thighs sous vide for 90 minutes.
Alternatively, cook 3 hours for a stewed or
braised texture. Cool in an ice-water bath.
Do not open the bags.
4 Reduce the temperature of the water bath
to 62 · c / 144 •F, a couple degrees above the
target temperature. Adding a few ice cubes
lowers the water temperature quickly.
5 Cook the breast meat so us vide to a core
temperature of 60 •c / 140 •F, abo ut 40 min-
utes . Hold it for another 20 minutes at that
temperature to pasteurize it.
6 When the breast meat is 10 minutes from
being done, add the bagged thighs back
into the bath to gently reheat them. This
e nsures that all of the ch icken is warm at
the same time.
7 Remove the skin and bones, and cut the meat
into slices 1 cm /'/o in thick . Alternatively,
keep the sk in on, and sear the ch icken pieces
skin-sid e down in a hot, oiled pan until the
skin turns dark brown. Cut the meat from the
th igh bone, and serve it warm or cold.
TO MAKE AHEAD
After cooking the chicken breast and thighs
in steps 1- 5, plunge the bags into an ice bath,
and then refrigerate them. Reheat the meat in
a 60 · c / 140 •Fwater bath for10-15 minutes.
Continue with step 7.
IF YOU HAVE TWO WATER BATHS
You can save 45 minutes by cooking the chicke n
breast and thighs in parallel. Preheat two water
baths: one to 65 •c/149 •F(for the thigh meat),
and one to 62 •c / 144 •F(for the breast meat).
Cook the thighs sous vide for 90 minutes. Cook
the breast meat sous vide to a core temperature
of 60 •c / 140 •F, about 40 minutes, and hold for
another 20 minutes to pasteurize it. Continu e
with step 7.

If you want to cook the drumsticks as well, If you leave the skin on the breast when making Sous Vide Chicken. you can pan-sear it in
seal them along with the thighs at step 2. hot oil to get the best of both worlds: perfectly cooked meat and beautifully browned skin.

108 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

SOUS VIDE TURKEY BREAST

YIELD: four to six servings (700 g)

TIME ESTIMATE: 14 hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 13 ~ hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup, brine injector or syringe

An injection of milk and apple juice into the turkey in this recipe will be surprisingly pink, don't worry; the long cooking time ensures
infuses the meat with phosphates, which make it extremely tender that it is safely pasteurized. If you prefer your turkey to have a more
when cooked. Apple juice is also effective alone, and an apple-juice traditional appearance, taste, and texture, simply set the water bath
brine gives the turkey a pleasantly sweet flavor. to 62 •c I 144 •p, and cook the turkey breast to a core temperature
Although turkey cooked to a core temperature of 56 •c I 133 •p of 61 ·c I 142 •F. It will still be quite juicy.
INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE
Apple jui ce 75g 75 mL/ YJ cup 10% 0 Comb in e, a nd stir until disso lved to make a brine.
Whol e milk 75g 75 mL / YJ cup 10%
Salt lOg 2y, tsp 1.3%
Sugar 9g 2 tsp 1.2%
Boneless, skinl ess 750 g/ 1.71b 1 medium or 100% ® Inject the brine into each part of the breast. Capture a ny that esca pes.
turkey breast two sma ll ® Place the breast a nd a ll captu red or leftover brine in a zip -top bag.
Remove the a ir from the bag by using the water-disp lacement method
(see page 6), and sea l it. Refrigerate t he sea led bag for l 2 hours.
@ Preheat a water bath to 57 · c / 135 • F.
® Remove the turkey from the bag, rinse it wit h cool water, and pat it dry.
® Place the breast in a clean zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible
from the bag (see page 6), and seal it.
0 Cook so us vid e to a co re temperature of 56 •c / 133 •f, aboutl)4 hou rs,
and then ho ld it at that temperature for 35 minutes more.
® Serve the turkey warm or cold.
Safety tips for lightly cookedfood: see page ix

Best Bets for Cooking Tender Poultry

To cook, fo llow the ste ps for chicken breast in the recipe on the previous page. For more a bo ut the so us vide technique of cook ing to a core temperature,
see page 8. Once the meat reaches the target te mpe rature, you can pasteurize it by keep ing it in th e water bath for th e amou nt of time specified.

Medium Hold at final Hold at final

__ra_r_e__ temperature • __M_e_d_i_u_m_ _ temperature *
Ingredient (• c) (• F) (hours) (•c) (• F) (m in utes) Note See page
chicken breast n/a 60 140 20 we prefe r to cook the breasts on th e crown, a lthough this previous
65 149 5 takes at least twice as long; leaving the bone in he lps th e
meat kee p its shape and reta in its juices

duck breast 54 129 2 h17 min 58 136 30 for a firm er texture, soa k for a day before cooking in a 50
brine of 5 g salt and 3.5 g sugar for every 100 g of water
quail breast 50 122 12 56 133 35 leave the skin on, a nd sear it over very high heat
squab breast 54 129 2 h17 min 58 136 30 re move th e skin, and wrap it in thinl y sl iced bacon
before cooking
turkey breast n/ a 56 133 35 serve with a turkey variation of our ]us Gras (see above
62 144 8 page 17)
(times and temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)
*(required to pasteurize)

ROAST CHICKEN 109

TURKEY CONFIT

YIELD: four servings (450 g)

TIME ESTIMATE: 241;2 hours, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 24 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 1 month when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: so us vide setup, vacuum sealer, needle-nose pliers, duck fat, juniper berries

Duck confit is a classic French preparation in which duck meat is If duck fat is unavailable, substitute butter or neutral-tasting oil.
cooked in an abundance of duck fat. In this Thanksgiving version, You can also substitute duck or chicken legs for the turkey. We serve
dark turkey meat is vacuum-cured with a complex melange that the confit as an accompaniment to slices of juicy Sous Vide Turkey
blends the aroma of autumn herbs with the richness of duck fat. Breast (see the previous page) and Home Jus Gras (see page 17).

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Turkey legs 900 g/ 21b 21egs 100% @ Preheat a water bath to 60 •c/140 •f.
0 Make a cut around the circumference of the ankle bone to sever the
tendons.
® Pull out the tendons, one at a time, by using needle-nose pliers.
0 Push the meat and skin up the leg from the ankle, and clean the bone.
Salt 40g 3Yz Tbsp 4.4% ® Comb ine, and coat the turkey legs evenly in a thick layer. Set aside any
Sugar 4g ltsp 0.4% salt and sugar that does not stick for use in the next step.
Duck fat, cold 150g 'l4 cup 17% @ Comb ine with the coated turkey legs and any re maining salt and sugar,
Rosemary 2g 1 medium sprig 0.2% and vacuum seal.
Thyme 2g 5 sprigs 0.2% 0 Cook sous vide for 24 hours.
juniper berries, crushed 2g Yz Tbsp 0.2% ® Remove the legs from the bag, and brush off the aromatics. You can
Garlic, crushed strain the cook ing fat and use it for other recipes.
2g Yz clove 0.2%
Black peppercorns 0.5g Yatsp 0.05%
Fresh bay leaf 0.2g 11eaf 0.01 %
Neutral frying oil as needed ® Pour the o il into a pan to a depth of 6 mm I '.4 in, and heat to
see page viii 220 · c ; 428 • f.
@ Panfry the legs until the skin turns brown and crispy, 2- 4 minutes per
side. Alternatively, broil them until brown, 3-5 minutes per side.
@ Serve immediately. You ca n also shred the meat.
Safety tipsfar deep frying : see page 4

Best Bets for Cooking Tough Poultry

To cook legs, thighs, and wings so us vide, follow the steps for chicken thighs in the recipe on the previous page.ln this sous vide technique, time and
temperature indicate doneness rather than the core temperature of the food (see page 8).

Tender and juicy Braised texture

Ingredient (•c> (• f) (hours) (•c> (• F) (hours) Note See page
chicken leg and 65 149 1)/2 68 154 3 to make fried chicken, cook sous vide, coat with a mix of equal parts potato 108
thigh starch and Wondra flour, and deep-fry at195 •c / 385 •Ffor3 minutes
chicken wing 65 149 62 144 12 next
duck leg 60 140 48 65 149 24 to make duck con fit, brine the legs for 12 hours, and then cook each leg above
82 180 5 sealed in a plastic bag with 12 g / 1 Tbsp of duck fat
turkey leg 65 149 8 70 158 10 brush with barbecue sauce, and finish on the grill above
turkey wing 62 144 18 80 176 in the U.S., turkey wings are more widely available near the end of the year
8
(times and temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)

110 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

SOUS VIDE BUFFALO WINGS

YIELD: Jour servings (1 kg/20-24 pieces)

TIME ESTIMATE: 4]12 hours overall, including 4 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup, vacuum sealer, Buffalo Sauce (see page 115)
GOES WELL WITH: Aerated Blue Cheese Sauce (see variation on page 117)

We brine these wings in an alkaline salt solution-a technique simi- tenderizes the meat and enhances the Maillard reactions that brown
lar to that traditionally used in Chinese kung pao chicken-which the wings. We then cook them sous vide and panfry them.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Water SOOg 500 mL/ 2 cups 50% CD Stir together to make a brine.
Salt 35g 3V2 Tbsp 3.5%
Baking soda Sg ltsp 0.5%
Chicken wings, jointed 1 kg / 2.21b 20-24 pieces 100% 0 Cut apart at the jo ints; discard the tips or save them for making stock.
® Combine with the brine in a zip-top bag, and refrigerate for 3 hours.
0 Preheat a water bath to 65 ' C/ 149 ' F.
® Drain the chi cken wings, and pat them dry with paper towels.
® Place the chicken pieces in a single laye r in a new zip-top bag, remove
as much air as possible from the bag by using the water-disp lacement
met hod (see page 6), sea l it. Cook so us vide for 1 hou r.
0 Place the cooked chicken pieces on a tray, and pat them dry.
Neutral frying oil as needed ® Preheat 1 cm /'/s in of frying oil in a deep skillet to 200 ' C/ 392 ' F.
see page viii ® Fry a few wings at a time in the hot oil until the skin becomes crisp,
about 3 minutes.
@ Drain the wings on paper towels.
Buffa lo Sauce as needed @ Brush or toss the wings w ith sauce, and serve th em hot.
see page 115
Safety tipsfor deep frying, see page 4

1 Stir together the water, salt, and baking soda to make a brine. Make
sure that the salt dissolves completely. 7 Place the cooked wings on a tray, and pat them dry with paper towels.
Excess moisture causes dangerous splattering when the wings are
placed in the oil.

2 Cut each of th e wings into three pieces at the joints. Don't use the wing
tips in this recipe; you can use them to make stock (see page 9).
8 Pour frying oil into a deep skillet to a depth of1 em I 'Is in, and preheat
to 200 ' C/ 392 ' F. A traditional cast-iron skillet holds its temperature
well during frying and browns the wings darkly and quickly.
3 Seal the brine and chicken wing pieces together in a large (4 L/ 1 gal)
zip-top bag. Refrigerate for 3 ho urs.

9 Fry the wings, a few at a time, in the hot oi l just long enough for the sk in
to crisp, about 3 minutes.
4 Preheat a water bath to 65 ' C/ 149 ' F.

1o Drain the w ings on paper towel s.

5 Drain the chicken wings, and pat them dry with paper towels .

11 Brush or toss sauce over the wings, and serve them hot.
6 Place the chicken pieces in a single laye r in a large (4 L/ 1 gal), new zip-
top bag. Use multip le bags, if necessary. Use the water-d isplacement
method (see page 6) to remove the air from the bag, and sea l it.
Cook so us vide for 1 hour.

CHICKEN WINGS 111

CRISPY CHICKEN WINGS, KOREAN-STYLE

YIELD: Jour servings (1 kg/ 20-24 pieces)

TIME ESTIMATE: 1 hour overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 30 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: marinate, refrigeratedJor up to one day before cooking
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: michiu rice wine, Wondra, potato starch, monosodium glutamate (MSG, optional), Korean Wing
Sauce (see page 116)

This adaptation pairs Chinese-style velveting with Korean-style
marinade and sauce. During frying, the starchy coating forms a
barrier against moisture that allows the wing meat to remain juicy
while the skin browns to a crisp. After many tests, we found that
this combination of potato starch and Wondra, a prehydrated flour,
crisped and browned the best. We also got good, crunchy results
when breading the wings with other starches, such as corn, tapioca,
and water chestnut starches. The michiu rice w ine has a low boiling
point, so it evaporates very quickly during frying and produces a
very delicate crust. If michiu wine is unavailable, use sake, dry white
wine, or three parts water to one part vodka instead.

INGREDIENT WE IGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Pea nut oil 100g 110 mL / y, cup 10% CD Combine, and stir until the salt and sugar are completely dissolved to
Michiu rice wine (light) 70g 80mL /Y,cup 7% make a marinade.
Soy sauce 20g 15 mL / W2 tsp 2%
Salt 5g 1\4 tsp 0.5%
Toasted-sesame oil 5g 5 mL / 1 tsp 0.5%
Monosodium glutamate 3g 0.3%
(MSG), optional
Sugar 2g y, tsp 0.2%
Chicken wings, cut up 1 kg / 2.21b 20-24 pieces 100% 0 Toss with the marinade, cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Neutral frying oil as needed 0 Pour into a deep pot to no more than halffull, and then preheat to
see page viii 176 "C/ 350 "F.
Wo ndra 40g Y.. cup 4% 0 Combine.
Potato starch 38g Y.. cup 3.8% ® Dust over the marinade-soaked chicken wings, and stir unti l the wings
are even ly coated with a thin batter.
® Deep-fry five to seven wings at a time until cooked through and golden
brown, about 7 minutes.
0 Drain the wings on paper towels.
Korean Wing Sauce 280g 1y, cups 28% ® Drizzle sauce generously over the wings, and toss to coat. Serve
see page 116 them hot .
Safety tips for deep frying: see page 4

1 Combine the peanut oil, rice wine, soy sauce, salt, sesame oil, MSG
(if using), and sugar, and mix thorough ly until the salt and suga r are 5 Dust the Wondra and starch mixture over the marinade-soaked
chicken wings, and stir unti l the marinade and starch form a th in
comp letely dissolved. This mixture serves as the marinade. batter and the wings are even ly coated.

2 Toss the ch icken wings with the marinade, cover with plastic wrap,
and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
3 toFill176a deep pot or fryer no more tha n halffull offrying oi l, and preheat
"C/ 350 "F. The fry ing temperature forth is recipe is slightly lower
than in the other wing recipes because the Korean-style marinade is
higher in sugar, and we want to avoid overbrowning the batter.
4 Stirthe Wondra and potato starch together until even ly mixed.
6 Deep-fry the wings in batches of five to seven until cooked through
and golden brown, about 7 minutes per batch. The cooking time
depends on the size of your pot or fryer. The more oil in the pot,
the less it cools when the co ld wings enter it.
7 Drain the wings on paper towels .
8 until
Drizzle Korean wing sauce over the wings generously, and toss them
coated. Serve the wings hot.

112 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

CRISPY SKINLESS CHICKEN WINGS

YIELD : four servings (875 g/ 20-24 pieces)

TIME ESTIMATE : 45 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: 500 mL whipping siphon, two cartridges of nitrous oxide, Chili Spice Mix (see page 55)

This wing recipe captures everything we love about fried chicken.
We remove the skin so that there is no barrier between the delight-
ful crunch of the breading and the tender juiciness of the meat. The
alcohol in the batter vaporizes very quickly and completely. As it
does, it lowers the boiling point of the mixture, yielding a delicate
crust that is crispier than skin ever could be. In effect, this is a
tempura chicken wing. Be sure to bring the wings to room tempera-
ture before frying them; the frying oil will recover its temperature
more quickly after you add the food. If the food goes in cold, it tends
to turn out greasy and overcooked. The batter, on the other hand,
should be kept cold.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

All-purpose flour 57g y, cup 5.7% @ Comb in e al l of the dry ingred ie nts .
Cornsta rch 45g y, cup 4.5%
Salt 6g lY2tsp 0.6%
Baking powder 1g Y., tsp 0.1 %
Water 200g 200 mL /7'• cup 20% 0 Whisk into the flour mixture to make a smooth batter.
Vodka 25g 30 mL / 2Tbsp 2.5% ® Pour into a 500 mL siphon, charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide,
and refrigerate.
Chicken wings, cut up 1 kg / 2.21b 20 -24 pieces 100% 0 Remove the skin from the wings.
Neutra l frying oi l as needed ® Fill a deep pot to no more than half full of fry ing oi l, and preheat to
see page viii 190 ' C/ 374 ' F.
Cornstarch as needed for coating ® Toss with the wings to coat evenly. Shake off excess starch .
0 Dispense the cold batter over the wings, and toss to coat thoroughl y.
® Deep-fry the wings, a few at a time, until cooked through a nd gold e n
brown, 5- 6 minutes.
® Drain on paper towels .
Chili Spice Mix 20g 2Tbsp 2% @ Season the wings generous ly, a nd serve them hot.
see page 55
Sa lt to taste
Safety tipsfor deep frying: see page 4

1 Combine the flour, cornstarch, salt, and

bak ing powder.
2 Whisk the water a nd vodka into the flour
mixture until the batter becomes smooth.
3 the
Pour the batter into a 500 mL siphon, charge
sip hon with two cartridges of nitrous
ox id e, and refrigerate it. The batter must be
cold to form a crisp crust.
4 Remove the ski n from the wings by trimming
off the co nn ective tissue, pulling sections
of the skin away while ho ld ing the wing
with the back of a knife, a nd th e n cutting
off the pi eces of skin . Alternatively, use
sc isso rs to make a n incis io n, and th e n pee l
the sk in away.
5 Fill a deep pot to no more than half full
with frying o il, and preheat the o il to
190 ' C/ 374 ' F.
6 Toss the wings with cornsta rch until coated
even ly, a nd shake off a ny extra. The sta rch
helps the batter cling to the chicke n.
7 Dispense the cold batter from the siphon
ove r the wings, and then toss the wings unti l
they a re thorough ly coated with batter.
8 Deep-fry the wings in batches, a few at
a time, until they are cooked through and
golde n brown, 5-6 minutes.
9 Drain the wings on paper towels .
10 Season the wings generous ly with
the ch ili sp ice mix and salt (or another
favor ite spice mix; we li ke the MCCurry
Powder on page 52). Serve them hot.
WHILE YOU ' RE AT IT: Puffed Chicken Skin
The chicken ski n yo u don't use he re could
become its own tasty snack. Sea l it in a zip-to p
bag, and cook it so us vide at B8 ' C/ 190 ' Ffor
12 hours . Remove the ski n from the bag, dust it
with co rnstarch, place it on a baking sheet, and
a llow it to dry in a de hyd rato r or low-te mpe rature
oven at 60-120 ' C/ 140-250 ' Ffor 4-8 hours .
Th e n fry the sk in pieces in 1 em I Y• in of very hot
oi l until they puff up a nd turn brown and cris py.
Dust them with salt or a sp ice mi x, a nd se rve.
For a recipe for puffed pork skin, see
page 96 .

CHICKEN WINGS 11 3
BONELESS YAKITORI WINGS

YIELD: Jour servings (300 g/ about 12 pieces)

TIME ESTIMATE: 25 hours overall, including 24 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for up to 3 days when refrigerated before frying
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: advanced (handling)
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup, vacuum sealer, potato starch, Yakitori Sauce (see page 116)

Boneless chicken wings are an unexpected treat. Use the center Turkey wings make an excellent variation and offer a little
"forewing" portion. The trick is to cut off the bone ends, and then reminder of Thanksgiving. Although turkey wings are larger
slide the bones out while the wings are warm. than chicken wings, the cooking time is the same.

INGREDIENT WE IGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Chicken forewings 500 g/ 1.11b about12 100% @ Trim the joint ends from the wings, cut away the connective tissues, and
use the tip of a knife to loosen the meat around the exposed bones.
Water 500g 500 mL / 2 cups 100% 0 Combine, and stir until the salt and sugar are completely dissolved to
Sa lt 30g 3Tbsp 6% make a brine.
Sugar 25g 2Y> Tbsp 5% ® Cover the w ings in the brine, and refrigerate them for 12 hours.
0 Drain the brined wings, and pat them dry with paper towels.
Clarified, unsalted butter 15 g 5 tsp butter or 3% 0 Preheat a water bath to 62 •c / 144 · F.
or neutral-tasting oil 15 mL / 1 Tbsp oil ® Vacuum seal the wings in a single layer with the butter or oil.
see page37
0 Cook the wings so us vide for 12 hours.
® While the wings are still warm, carefully remove the bones without
rupturing the skin.
® Pat the skin dry with paper towels.
Neutral frying oil as needed @ Heat 1 cm / 3/a in of frying oil in a nonstick pan to 200 •c / 392 • f.
see page viii
@ Coat the wings with the starch, and shake off any excess.
Potato starch 25g 2Tbsp 5% @ Fry the wings until brown and crisp, about 2 minutes on each side.
@ Drain the wings on paper towels .
Yak itori Sauce, warm as needed @ Spoon the sauce overthe w ings, and serve them hot.
see page 116
Safety tipsfor frying: see page 4

1 Trim the chicken wing pieces. Try to keep the skin intact. First, cut
through both joints; keep the central forewing. Next, cut away the 8 Remove the wings from the bag, and while they are still warm, carefully
extract the bones . Avoid rupturing the skin.
connective tissue. Finally, slide the tip of a knife around the exposed
bones to loosen the meat. This step makes it much easier to remove
the bones after cooking.
9 Pat the wings dry with paper towels.

1o Heat1 cm /'/a in of frying oil in a nonstick pan to 200 •c / 392 •f.

2 Stir the salt and sugar in the water until they are comp lete ly disso lved.
This is the brine.
11 Coat the wings with the sta rch, and shake off any excess.

3 Cover the wings in the brine, and refrigerate them for12 hours.

12 Fry the w ings until they turn brown and crispy, about 2 minutes on
each side.

4 Drain the brined wings, and pat them dry with paper towe ls.

13 Drain the fried wings on paper towels.

5 Preheat a water bath to 62 •c / 144 • f.

14 Spoon yakitori sauce over the wings, and serve them hot.

6 Vacuum seal the wings in a single layer with the butter or oil.

7 Cook the wings sous vide fo r 12 hours.

TO MAKE A H EAD
After you remove t he bones and dry the cooked wings in step 9, refrigerate
them for up to 3 days. To reheat, seal the wings in a bag, and p lace in a
water bath at 62 •c / 144 •F for 30 minutes.Then continue with step 10.

114 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

BUFFALO SAUCE
YIELD: 23Sg/ 1 cup
TIME ESTIMATE: 1 hour overall, including 30 minutes of preparation and 30 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate

Our Buffalo wing sauce is essentially a spicy variation of mayonnaise sauce on almost anything. Note that because this sauce contains
made with a flavored oil (which, by the way, can be used by itself). very little water, it won't make your crispy chicken wings soggy. If at
Here we use raw egg yolks, but pasteurized eggs can be substituted any point the sauce starts to separate and get oily, whisk it or puree it
(see page 142 in the main volume) . You can use this spicy, creamy with an immersion blender until smooth.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Neutral-tasting oil 200g 220 ml / 1 cup 100% CD Combine in a pot, and cook over low heat until the garli c and onions
Sweet onion, thinly sl iced BOg l4 cup 40% are comp letely soft, about 30 minutes. Alternatively, pressure-cook
together in a canning jar forlO minutes (see page 44).
Garlic, thinly sliced BOg o/a cup 40%
jalapeno pepper, minced 30g 3Tbsp 15%
0 Strain through a sieve lined with cheesecloth. Discard the solids,
and coo l the oi l to room temperature.
Canned chipotle pepper 20g 1 medium 10%
in adobo, chopped
0 Measure 150 g/ 3/4 cup of the flavored oil for use in the next step.

Sweet paprika lOg lY2 Tbsp 5%

Cayenne lOg lY2Tbsp 5%
Egg yolks 50g 3- 4yolks 25% 0 Place the egg yolks in a bowl, and gradually blend in the flavored oil and
(raw or pasteurized) le mon juice by using an immersion ble nder until full y emulsified .
l emon juice 50g 50 mL / 3J/2 Tbsp 25%
Salt Bg 2tsp 4% ® Season the sau ce, and serve it at room temperature.

HONEY MUSTARD SAUCE

YIELD : 200 g/ 1 cup
TIME ESTIMATE: 5 minutes overall
STO RAGE NOTES : keeps for 7 days when refrigerated
LEV EL OF DIFFICULTY: easy

The flavor of this sauce depends greatly on the kind of honey and
mustard you use; experiment with varieties you find intriguing.
Maple syrup can be substituted for the honey. Sweet herbs or spices
such as tarragon, cinnamon, or cloves provide a change of pace.
Give the sauce more kick with dry mustard powder, chili powder,
cayenne pepper, grated horseradish, or Japanese wasabi. Or add a
few drops of liquid smoke for a smoky flavor. The pickled mustard
seeds add a great popping texture, and you can add up to twice as
many of them if you like.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Dijon mustard 100 g Y• cup 100% CD Stir together until thoroughly mixed.
Honey 50g 3Tbsp 50%
Pressure-Cooked Pickled 40g 2Y, Tbsp 40%
Mustard Seeds, drained
see page 43
Apple cider vin egar 12g 15 ml/ 1 Tbsp 12%
Salt to taste 0 Season the sauce, and serve it warm or cold.

CHI CKEN WING S 115

YAKITORI SAUCE

YIELD: 500g/ 2 cups

TIME ESTIMATE : 1214 hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 12 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: mirin, sake, bonito flakes

Yakitori is Japanese for grilled (yaki) bird (tori); it is usually made a very hot charcoal fire, and then brushed with this delicious sauce.
with chicken. This popular bar food is somewhat akin to tapas in The pineapple in the sauce contains an enzyme, called bromelain,
Spain. Yakitori comes in many forms, but in the most common style, that tenderizes the surface of the meat. Teriyaki sauce can be substi-
small pieces of chicken are strung on bamboo skewers, grilled over tuted in a pinch.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Mirin 200g 230 mL / 1 cup 89% CD Combine in a pot, and bring to a simmer.
Honey llOg Vlcup 49%
Light soy sauce lOOg 85 mL /Vl cup 44%
Dry sake lOOg 120 mL /V2 cup 44%
Bonito flakes 20g 1 cup, packed 9%
Ginger, finely grated Sg 2 tsp 2%
Pineapple rind and flesh, 225g lV2 cups 100% 0 Pour the hot soy sauce mixture over the pineapple, and let it cool.
cubed ® Refrigerate for12 hours.
0 Strain through a sieve lined with cheesecloth, reserving the sauce.
Discard the pineapple rind. The pineapple cubes can be used in stir-fry.
Rice vinegar 50 g 60 mL /Y., cup 22% ® Season the sauce, and serve it warm or cold.
Salt 15g Stsp 6.7%

KOREAN WING SAUCE

YIELD: 280 g/ 1 cup

TIME ESTIMATE : 15 minutes
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: gochujang (Korean fermented chili paste), Shaoxing wine

This sweet and spicy sauce is addictive. It is well worth the time to mouth" (usu kuchi) soy sauce, the variety we prefer for this recipe.
search your local Asian market for these specialty ingredients. Often If you can't find ShaOJdng wine (a Chinese rice wine), substitute
sold in tubs, gochujang is a sweet, complex chili paste that you might medium-dry sherry.
find yourself slathering on almost everything. Look also for "thin

INGREDIENT WE IGHT VO LUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Gochujang 135g Y, cup 100% CD Combine, and whisk together until the sugar dissolves.
{Korean fermented 0 Serve the sauce warm or cold.
chili paste)
Sugar 50g Vl cup 37%
Soy sauce 30g 25 mL /5 tsp 22%
Shaoxing wine 27g 30 mL /2 Tbsp 20%
Toasted-sesame oil 20g 20 mL / l Y, Tbsp 15%
Garlic, minced lOg 1 Tbsp 7.4%
Ginger, minced 8g 1 Tbsp 6%

116 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

BLUE CHEESE SAUCE

YIELD: 600 g/2~ cups

TIME ESTIMATE: 15 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: Wondra, sodium citrate

Use a bold blue cheese, such as Maytag, Roquefort, Gorgonzola, or smooth sauce, the sodium citrate we use here as an emulsifier requires
Stilton. Overheating cheese sauces usually is taboo, but to make a that the sauce simmers while you gradually blend in the cheese.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Wondra 12g Stsp 3% 0 Mix until thorough ly combined.
Sod ium citrate 4g 1%
Whole milk, cold 200g 210 mL / 7'• cup 50% ® Whisk together with the Wondra mixture in a medium saucepan, and
bring to a simm e r. lfth e powders clump, the milk was not cold e nough.
Blue cheese, crumbl ed 400g 3y, cups 100% ® Add gradua lly to the simmeri ng milk mixture, and use an immersion
ble nd er to blend each add ition until the cheese is melted and the sauce
is comp lete ly smooth.
0 Coo l the sauce comp letely, and serve it co ld .

VARIATION: Aerated Blue Cheese Sauce

To make a light, airy version of the Blue Cheese Sauce, pour the warm
sauce into a 1 Lsiphon, and charge the siph on with two cartridges of
nitrous oxide. Dispense a cloud of blue cheese alongside chicken wings
or on a raw vegetable platter.

CHINESE GARLIC CHILl CONDIMENT

YIELD: 145 g/ 1J;3 cups

TIME ESTIMATE: 30 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: serve within 30 minutes
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate

Variations of this condiment are often seen in Chinese "salt and along with the jalapeno. This condiment tastes fabulous not only
pepper" dishes. Adjust the spiciness to suit your taste. For a more with chicken wings but also with fried frogs' legs, fried tofu, grilled
aromatic version, include minced ginger, cilantro, and lemongrass pork chops (see page 83), and cold noodles dressed with sesame oil.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Neutral-tasting oil 432 g 470 mL/ 2 cups 2B8% 0 Set a strainer over a pot near the stove top.
Garlic, minced 150 g 1 cup 100% ® Combine the garlic and o il in another pot. Make sure the pot is no more
than half full to al low space for bubbling and froth.
® Cook over high heat, stirring constantly, until the garl ic turns go ld en
brown, about 6 minutes. Once the ga rli c darkens in co lor, it burns
quickly, so watch it closely.
0 Pour through the strainer.
® Spread the garlic on paper towels to drain.
Scallions, white parts 40g Y, cup 27% ® Add to the pot of hot, strai ned o il. Place the strainer over the empty pot.
only, minced 0 Cook over high heat, stirring constantly, until the scall ions turn golden
brown, about4 minutes.
® Pour t hrough the strainer.
® Spread the scallion s o n paper towels to drain.
@ Measure 3 g/3 mL / Y2 tsp of the oil for use in the next step. You ca n use
any remaining o il for flavoring steamed fish or pasta.
Ja lapeno pepper, 33g 3Tbsp 22% @ Combine with the reserved oi l, fried garlic, and fried scalli o ns. Mix
finely chopped thoroughly.
Salt Bg 2 tsp 5.3% @ Serve within 30 minutes, while the garli c and scallions remain crisp.

CHICKEN WINGS 117

SKEWERS

There's something inherently fun about food on a stick. Skewered
foods pop up in food culture all over the world: in yakitori bars in
Japan; in the astounding variety of satay sold by Thai and Malaysian
street vendors; in cotton candy, deep-fried ice cream, and corn dogs
at the Minnesota State Fair; and in candy apples and popsicles-
even in "Spamsicles" and crispy crickets on a stick.
We give some of our favorites skewers a Modernist update by
cooking the meat sous vide to the perfect temperature before
skewering it. One benefit of this approach is that the skewers can
be made in advance, vacuum sealed, and then refrigerated. When
you are ready to serve them, simply place the bag in a 55 'C / 131 'F
water bath for 15-20 minutes to reheat, and then sear them in a
very hot pan, on a hot grill, under a blowtorch, or in hot oil. The
sauce is optional.

Safety tipsfor deep frying: see page 4

Safety tipsfor blowtorching: see page 2

Pesta Chicken Thighs
Cut 300 g/ 0.7lb of boneless,
skin-on chicken thigh into
2.5 cm / 1 in pieces. Vacuum
sea l the chicken in a single layer.
Cook so us vide at 65 ' C/ 149 ' F
for 1Y, hours. Thread three to
five pieces of cooked meat onto
each skewer so that all of the skin
faces the same direction. Finish
by searing the chicken, skin-side
down, in a hot dry pan. Brush with
Pistachio Pesta (see page 22).
Korean Pork Belly
Cut 300 g/ 0.7 lb of fresh pork
belly, with its skin on, into
2.5 cm / 1 in cubes. Vacuum seal the
pork in a single layer. Cook so us
vide at 62 ' C/ 144 ' Ffor 48 hours.
Remove the meat from the bag,
and thread three to five pieces
onto each skewer. Finish by using
a blowtorch or by deep-frying
the skewers in 190 ' C/ 375 ' F
neutral frying oil, and then glazing
with Korean Wing Sauce (see
page 116).
Deep-Fried Tsukune
Prepare the skewers of chicken
meatballs as described in the
Tsukune recipe on the next page.
Finish by deep-frying th e meat-
balls in 190 ' C/ 375 ' F neutral frying
oi l until cooked through, about
3 minutes. Brush with Sous Vide
Spiced Chi li Oi l (see page 36).
Chicken Skin Yakitori
Vacuum sea l200 g/ 0.4lb of
ch icken sk in in a single layer.
Cook so us vide at 88 ' C/ 190 ' F
for 12 hours . Separate the pieces
of skin wh ile they are sti ll warm,
and thread them onto skewers.
Coo l complete ly, and then finish
by deep-frying in 190 ' C/ 375 ' F
neutral frying oil until crisp,
4-5 minutes. Glaze with Yakitori
Sauce (see page 116).

Tsukune
Boneless, sk inless chi cken 400 g/ 0.9lb lo/e cups Chicken meatballs are ca lled tsukune in Japa nese. They are served on
th igh meat, finely ground from 3 thighs skewe rs and are de li ciou s.
Leeks, white parts only, 45g l4 cup Combine all ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer, and stir with the
minced paddle attachment until the mix coheres, about 2 minutes . Refrigerate the
Egg white, beaten 35g 3 Tbsp mixture for1 hour to firm and hydrate it . Adjust the oven rack so that the
Yakitori Sauce 20g 1 Tbsp skewe red meatballs will be about 5 cm / 2 in from the heat source, and
see page 116 then preheat the broiler to high.
Toasted-sesame oil lOg 10 ml / 2\4 tsp Shape the mixture into 2.5 cm / 1 in meatballs by using a small scoop or
Ginger, minced yo ur wet hands. Thread three meatballs onto each bamboo skewer. Place
6g 2tsp
the meatballs on an oiled bro il er rack, and broi l until gold en brown and
Wondra 5g JY, tsp cooked through, 3-4 minutes per side. Serve hot as is, or sweetened by
Salt 4g ltsp brushing on add itional yakitori sauce.

Lamb Skewers with
Mint Yogurt
Cut 300 g/ 0.7lb of lamb leg into
2.5 cm / 1 in cubes. Vacuum sea l the
lamb in a single layer. Cook sous
vide at 56 ' C/ 133 ' Ffor 3 hours.
Remove the meat from the bag,
and thread three to five pieces onto
eac h skewer. Finish by sea ring th e
meat on all sides with a blowtorch.
Serve with mint yogurt.
Min t Yogurt: Mix together
150 g /'le cup of plain yogurt and
15 g/ 5 Tbsp of chopped fresh mint.
Season with sa lt to taste .
Chicken Breast Satay
Vacuum sea l a whole, boneless,
skinless chicken breast of about
300 g/ 0.7 lb. Cook the ch icken
sous vide at 60 ' C/ 140 ' Fto a co re
temperature of 59 ' C/ 138 ' F, and
then hold at that temperature for
1 hour. Remove the meat from the
bag, and cut it into 2.5 cm / 1 in
pieces. Thread three to five pieces
onto each skewer. Optionally, sea r
the cooked meat over a hot grill
or und er a blowtorch. The n brush
with Pressure -Carame lized Peanut
Sauce (see page 31).
Beef Short Ribs with
Shiitake Marmalade
Trim 300 g/ 0.7lb of boneless
beef short rib, an d cut the meat
into 2.5 cm / 1 in cubes. Vacuum
sea l the pieces in a single laye r.
Cook so us vide at 58 ' C/ 136 ' F
for 72 hours. Remove the meat
from the bag, and thread three
to five pieces onto each skewer.
Finish the meat by searing it or
by deep-frying it in 190 ' C/ 375 ' F
ne utral frying oil until brown
and cri sp. Smother the skewers
with Shiitake Marmalade (see
page 64), and sprink le grated
Gruyere cheese over the top.
Fi let Mignon with
Montpellier Butter
Trim 300 g/ 0.7lb of filet mignon .
Vacuum sea l the filet whole .
Cook sous vide at 54 ' C/ 129 ' F
to a core temperature of 53 ' C/
127 ' F, about 35 minutes. Remove
the meat from the bag, and cut
it into 2.5 cm / 1 in cubes. Thread
three to five pieces onto each
skewer. Finish by searing the meat
on all sides with a blowtorch,
topping with grated Montpell ier
Butter (see page 38), and blow-
torching again briefly to melt the
butter.

118 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

PRESSURE-COOKED CARROTS AND LEEKS

YIELD: four servings (250 g/ 1 cup)

TIME ESTIMATE: 10 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 1 day when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker

This simple technique makes very tender vegetables in only a few cooking time. If the vegetables are thicker or thinner than noted,
minutes . The thickness of the vegetables determines the correct increase or decrease the time accordingly.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Carrots, unpeeled, 200g 2 carrots 100% 0 Place the vegetables on a rack or trivet in a pressure cooker, and add
2.5cm / 1 in 1 em /% in of water. The vegetables should cook above, not in, the water.
in diameter 0 Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 5 minutes. Start
Leeks, 2.5 cm / 1 in 150g 1-2 1eeks 75% timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.
in diameter, 0 Depressurize the cooker quickly by runn ing tepid water over the rim.
thoroughly washed If the vegetab les are not yet tender enough for your liking, replace the
lid, and continue to pressure-cook for1-2 minutes more.
0 Rub the skins off the carrots, and peel and discard the outermost layer
ofthe leeks.
® Slice each on the bias into pieces1 cm / 3/a in thick .
0 Keep warm until ready to serve.
Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 5

TO MAKE AHEAD VARIATIONS

Refrigerate the cooked vegetables. Reheat them in a steamer for This technique works well with other root vegetables such as beets,
2 minutes, or place them on a microwave-safe plate, cover with turnips, potatoes, celery root, and parsnips. Cut them into pieces of
microwave-safe plastic wrap, and microwave at 500 watts until just equal thickness when cooking them toge ther. See Pressure-Cooked
warmed through, about 30 seconds. Vegetables on page 77.

CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP

YIELD: four servings (2.4 kg/ 10 cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 15 minutes
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LE VE L OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQU IREMENTS: Fresh Egg Noodles (see page 122), Pressure-Cooked Carrots and Leeks (see above), Sous Vide
Chicken (see page 108), Aromatic Chicken Broth (see the next page), Pressure-Rendered Chicken
Fat (see page 41)

The secret to perfecting this seemingly simple soup is ensuring that of the ingredients are prepared and timed to be assembled quickly
each component is cooked and seasoned to perfection. Make sure all so that the soup is piping hot when it gets to the table.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME PROCEDURE

Fresh Egg Noodles, hot 400g 4cups 0 Peel the mushrooms, and slice them on a mandoline to paper-thin slices.
see page122 0 Divide evenly between fo ur serving bowls.
Pressure-Cooked Carrots 250g 20 pieces of carrot
and Leeks, warm 16 pieces of leek
see above
White button mushrooms 22g ~c up
Sous Vide Chicken, 700 g 2 cups
warm and sliced
see page lOB
Aromatic Chicken Broth, hot 1 kg 1 L/ 4Y., cups 0 Pour into the prepared soup bowls.
see the next page
Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat, 40g 45 mL/ 3 Tbsp 0 Drizzle over the soup for added flavor.
melted (optional)
see page41

CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP 119

AROMATIC CHICKEN BROTH

YIELD: four servings (1 kg/ 41,4 cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 10 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: blowtorch (optional), French press (optional), monosodium glutamate (optional)

Use either a traditional white stock or a savory, roasted brown broth
as the main ingredient in this recipe. For best results, prepare the
ingredients but do not combine them until you are ready to plate
the soup, as described on the previous page. The last-minute infu-
sion gently draws out all of the aromatics from the herbs and spices
just before you pour the broth at the table, creating a wonderfully
fragrant experience. It's like making coffee or tea: although you
can make and infuse the broth ahead of time, the natural perfume
will fade as it sits. We like to infuse the broth in a French press and
pour it at the table, but it can also be made in a saucepan and then
strained.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Garlic 20 g 5 cloves 2% <D Cut each garlic clove lengthwise into thick slices.
0 Char by using a blowtorch, or sear the sli ces on both sid es.
Star anise 4g 1 star an ise 0.4% ® Toast the spices in a dry frying pan over medium-high heat, stirring
Black peppercorns 4g y, tsp 0.4% constantly, until fragrant, about 3 minutes.
Salt 15g 5tsp 1.5% 0 Combine with the charred garlic and toasted spices in the beaker of
Chervil, bruised 14g 12 branches 1.4% a large French press.
Thyme, bruised 2g 4 sprigs 0.2%
Tarragon, bruised 1g ?leaves 0.1%
Bay leaves, sliced 0.4 g 21eaves 0.04%
Monosodium glutamate 5g 0.5%
(MSG), optional
White or brown 1 kg 1 L/ 4Y., cups 100% ® Bring to a boil. Pour over the ingredients in the French press, and stir.
chicken stock ® Leave to infuse for 2 minutes. Then press, and serve hot.
see page 9
Safety tipsfor blowtorching: see poge 2

1 Cut each garlic clove lengthwise into thick slices.

4 Combine the herbs, sa lt, and MSG (optiona l) with the charred garlic
and toasted spices in the beaker of a large French press.

2 Char both sides of each slice evenly with a blowtorch (use MAPP or
propylene fuel), or sear them in a very hot, dry pan for 20 seconds. The
surface should be dark and blistered, but the interior should rema in 5 Bring the chicken stock to a full boil. Pour over the ingredients in
the French press, and stir. If you are not using a French press, simply
moist. This step removes the raw garlic flavor and adds a complexity remove the stock from the heat, stir in the aromatics, and cover.
to the finished broth.

3 Toast the star anise and peppercorns in a dry frying pan over medium- 6 Leave the stock to infuse for 2 minutes. Then press or strain it, and
serve it hot.
high heat, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. For a
spicier flavor, crack the spices in a mortar and pestle.

120 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

OTHER AROMATIC BROTHS AND SOUPS
The infusion technique from our Aromatic Chicken Broth recipe
on the previous page lends itself to a variety of flavorful soups and
broths. Each of the recipes below uses the same simple procedure.
First, combine all ingredients except the noodles. Then stir, cover,
remove from the heat, and allow to infuse for 2-3 minutes. Finally,
strain the broth, add the cooked noodles, and serve. Each of these
recipes yields four servings (1 kg I 41/.i cups) .

Pho Soup Thai Soup

Beef stock, very hot 1 kg 1 L/ 4\4 cups Pressure-Cooked 1 kg 1 L/ 4\4 cups
see page lO Crustacean Stock,
Onion, halved and 240 g llarge very hot
charred see page 12

Ginger, sliced in half and 50 g y, cup / 1 piece Coco nut milk lOOg 100 mL /Jis cup
charred 6 cm / 2Y2 in Palm sugar, grated 40g y, cup
long Asian fish sauce 20g 20 mL / 3Y, tsp
Sugar 30 g 2Tbsp Ga langal, toasted lOg 2 Tbsp / 3- 4 slices
Asian fish sauce lOg 9 ml / 1% tsp and crushed
Monosodium glutamate Sg ltsp Lime juice 6g 6 mL / lY.. tsp
(MSG), optio nal Lemongrass, Sg 1 Tbsp
Black peppe rcorns 4g l YJ tsp thinly sliced
Star anise 2g 1-2 whole Lime leaf, crushed lg l leaf
Cinnamon stick, 2g 1 large stick Coconut Nood les as needed
crumb led see vari ation on page 123

Whole allspice lg Y2 tsp

Rice Noodles as needed
see variation on page 123

Goulash Broth Chinese Soup

Pork stock, very hot 1 kg 1 L/ 4\4 cups Duck stock, very hot 1 kg 1 L/ 4\4 cups
see variation on page 10 see page 9
Canned tomatoes lSOg l Y2 cups Ginger, sliced 15g 2Y' Tbsp
Red bell pepper juice lSOg 150 ml / '/J cup Shaox ingwine lOg 10 ml/ 2:Y. tsp
Fresh di ll sprigs, 30 g 2cups Sca ll ion, sliced 8g 2Tbsp
bruised Dry-cured ham, 8g 2Tbsp
Sherry vinegar 20g 25 mL / l Y2 Tbsp julienned
Caraway seeds 6g 2Y.. tsp Monosodium glutamate Sg ltsp
Hot paprika 2g 1 tsp (MSG), optiona l
Cumin seeds 1g y, tsp Whole Wheat Noodles as needed
see va riation on page 12 3
Rye Noodles as needed
see variation on page 123

Tortilla Soup
Chicken stock, very hot 1 kg 1 L/ 4\4 cups
see page 9
Canned tomatoes 100 g Ys cup
Onion, diced SOg Ys cup
Tortilla ch ips, crumb led lOg Y.. cup
Jalapeno ch ili, sl iced Sg ltsp
Cilantro sprigs 4g Y.. cup
Lime juice 2g 2 mL /Ys tsp
Cumin seeds 0.4g Y2 tsp
Masa Harina Noodles as needed
see variation on page 123

CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP 121

FRESH EGG NOODLES

YIELD: four servings (640 g)

TIME ESTIMATE: 2~ hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 2 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: raw dough keeps for 2 days when vacuum sealed and refrigerated; noodles keep for 1 day
when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: stand mixer with dough hook or food processor, vacuum sealer, pasta machine, vital wheat gluten

The trick to making fresh noodles with extra chew is to add gluten. directions on the package to cook them.
Try using whole wheat, buckwheat, and other flours for variety. A linguine cutter will allow you to make wider noodles from the
If you're short on time, you can use 675 g of store-bought fresh pasta sheets. And if you don't have a pasta machine, you can use a
noodles or dry noodles instead in the chicken soup; follow the rolling pin, and then cut the pasta by hand using a knife .

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

All-purpose flour 420g 3 cups 100% CDCombine in the bowl of a stand mixer, and mix with the dough hook for
Water 125g 125 ml /Y2 cup 30% 8 minutes .
Egg 50 g 1-2 eggs 12% 0 Vacuum seal the dough, or seal it in a zip-top bag, and refrigerate it fo r
Extra-virgin olive oil at least 1 hour.
25g 30 ml / 2 Tbsp 6%
Vital wheat gluten 16g 2Tbsp 4%
® Divide the chilled dough into four even pieces.
(Bob's Red Mill brand) 0 Dust the dough with flour, and press it flat. line a tray with a lightly
Salt floured , dry cloth.
4g ltsp 1%
y,.
® Roll the pieces of dough into sheets 2 mm I in thick by using a pasta
machine. Place the pasta sheets side by side on the prepared tray.
® Refrigerate the sheets, uncovered, for about 1 hour.
0 Cut the pasta sheets into thin, spaghetti-like noodles.
® Dust the noodles with flour, a nd return them to the cloth-lined tray.
® Fill a large pot with a measured amount of water, add 0.5-0.75 g of salt
forevery100 gofwater, and bring to a boil.
@ Boil the nood les for 30 seconds to make firm noodl es or 60 seconds to
make tender noodles.
Olive oil or Pressure- as needed @ Drain the pasta, toss it with oil, re nd ered fat, or pasta sauce, and serve
Rendered Chicken Fat it immediately.
see page41

1 Combine the flour, water, egg, o live oi l, gluten, and salt in the bowl of
a stand mixer. Mix with the dough hook attachment for 8 minutes. The 8 Dust the noodles generously with flour to prevent sticking, and return
them to the cloth- li ned tray, or hang them from a pasta-drying rack.
dough should gradually come together in dense, smooth, elastic ba lls
that do not stick to the sides of th e bowl.
9 Pour a measured amo unt of water into a large pot, add 0.5-0.75 g of
salt for every 100 g of water, and bring the water to a boil. This is less

2 Vacuum sea l the dough, or seal it in a zip-top bag. Refrigerate it over-

night, orfor at least 1 hour. Sea ling the dough keeps it from drying out
salt than is typically used in water when cooking pasta beca use we
include a generous amount of salt in the pasta dough itse lf.
and helps hydrate the starch.

3 Divide the chi lled dough into four even pieces. 10 Boil the noodles for 30 seconds to make firm noodles or 60 seconds
to make tender noodles. For thicker pasta, cook small test batches
to find the optimal time.

4 Dust a piece with flour, and use the palm of your hand to flatten it.
line a tray with a lightly floured, dry cloth .
11 Dra in the pasta, toss it with oil, rendered fat, or pasta sauce, and
serve it immediately.
y,.
5 Roll the dough through a pasta roller into sheets 2 mm / in thick.
Place the pasta sheets side by side on the tray. The sheets of pasta Pasta sheets
should not overlap; use multiple trays if necessary. This pasta dough, as well as the variations on the next two pages can also be
rolled and cut to wide shapes for use in lasagna or cannelloni.

6 Refrigerate the pasta sheets, uncove red, for about 1 hour. They should
dry slightly and become slightly leathery.
7 Cut the sheets into spaghetti- like noodles. Any shape of pasta works
in this dish, but thicker noodles require more time to cook.
You can use a food processor in place of a stand mixer. Ble nd the wet ingre-
dients in the processor. Dry-blend the flour, gluten, and salt. Combine them
with the wet ingredients, and then pulse in the processor until the dough
just starts to cohere . Transfer the dough to a clean surface, and knead it unti l
it becomes elastic and smooth, about 3 minutes. Continue with step 2.

122 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

DRESSED NOODLES Barley Noodles
00 flo ur* 195g JY, cups
Egg yo lks, blended 75g 5 yo lks
Each of the pasta dough variations below follows the same procedure
Water 60g 60 mL/Y.. cup
as our Fresh Egg Noodles recipe on the previous page (and, like that
Ba rley flour 53g Yz cup
recipe, incorporates vital wheat gluten) . But each of the variations Olive oil 45g 50 mL / 3Yz Tbsp
also includes a suggested sauce or other accompaniment. Quantities Vita l wheat gluten 7.5g 1 Tbsp
given here are for noodles made from 400 g of raw dough. (Bob's Red Mill brand)
Salt 3g Y.. tsp
Serving suggestion: Toss the cooked, drained noodles with
235 g/ Y.. cup of Pi stachi o Pes to (see page 22).

Potato Noodles Rye Noodles

00 flour* 275g 1Y, cups Water 125g 125 mL /Yz cup
00 flour* 125g 3,1.. cup
Water 120 g 120 mL/Yz cup
Eggs, bl e nd ed 75g 2eggs Rye flour l05g )Ia cup
Potato fl o ur 52.5g '/a cup Vital wheat gluten 72g y, cup
Neutral-tasting oil 45g 50 mL / 3Yz Tbsp (Bob's Red Mill bra nd)
Vital wheat gluten 20 g 2Yz Tbsp Egg, blended 50 g 1 egg
(Bob's Red Mill brand) Olive oil l2 .5g 15 ml / 1 Tbsp
Salt 6g 1Y., tsp Salt 2g y, tsp
Serving suggestion: Cook 135 g of bl e nd ed egg yo lks (9-10 yolks) so us Serving suggestion: Saute 100 g / lYz cups of sli ced ga rl ic ch ives and
vide at 62 •c / 144 •F for40 minutes. Saute 115 g / lYz cups of thinly sli ced 200 g / 3 cups of thinly sli ced shiitake mushrooms in 56 g / 60 ml /
pancetta. Toss the cooked, drained noodl es in th e warm eggs, pancetta, Y.. cup of ne utral-tasting o il until just tender. Toss the cooked, drained
40 g /Y, cup of thinly sli ced sca llions, 60 g/ 60 ml /Y.. cup of water from nood les with 142 g / 'A cu p of Sesame Dressing (see variation on
cooking the pasta, a nd black pepper. page 35). Garnish with toasted-sesame seeds and 43 g / y, cup of
thinly sl iced Chinese sausage, fried crisp.

Masa Harina Noodles Rice Noodles

Water 130g 130 mL/Yz cup 00 flour* 150g )Ia cup
00 flour* 125g Y.. cup Water 120 g 120 mL/Yz cup
Masa ha rina 105g Y.. cup Rice flour 100 g )Ia cup

Vital wheat gluten 72g Yzcup Egg, blended 50g 1 egg

(Bob's Red Mill brand) Vital wheat gluten 40g 5Tbsp
Egg, ble nded 50g 1 egg (Bob's Red Mill brand)
Corn oi l l2.5g 15 ml/ 1 Tbsp Rice bran oil 20g 20 ml / 1Yz Tbsp
Salt 2g y, tsp Salt 2g Yz tsp

Servi ng suggestion: Saute 345 g / 2Yz cups of freshly shucked sweet Serving suggestion: Toss the cooked, drained noodles with 145 g/
corn kernels in 56 g/ 5 Tbsp of unsalted butter. Toss the cooked, drained o/a cup of Pressure-Carame lized Peanut Sauce (see page 31), and
noodles with corn and butte r, and garnish with grated qu eso fresco o r drizzle with 45 g / 50 ml / 3Yz Tbsp of Press ure-Rende red Chi cken
Cotija cheese and grated lime zest to taste. Fat (see page 41), an d a pinch of ch ili powder.

Coconut Noodles Whole Wheat Noodles

00 flour * 195g 1Y., cu ps Whole wheat flour 260g 1Y.. cups
Egg yo lks, blended 75g 5 yo lks Water 90 g 60 ml /'/a cup
Water 60 g 60 mL/ Y.. cup Egg, blended 50g 1 egg
Coconut flour 53g '/a cup Olive oil 25g 30 ml/ 2Tbsp
Neutral-tasting oi l 53g 55 mL / Y.. cup Vital wheat gluten 5g 2 tsp
Vital wheat gluten 7.5g 1 Tbsp (Bob's Red Mill brand)
(Bob's Red Mill brand) Salt 2g Yz tsp
Salt 3g ltsp Serving suggestion: Toss th e cooked, drained noodles with
Serving suggestion: Toss the coo ked, drain ed nood les with 160 g / 400 g / lo/a cups of Marinara (see page 32), and garnish with
'/J cup ofThai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze (see page 33), an d fi nely shredded basil.
ga rnish with crushed, roasted peanuts, coco nut cream powde r,
and tiny dried shrimp.

CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP 123

 FRAGRANT SOUS VIDE SALMON
YIELD: four servings (600 g)
TIME ESTIMATE: SJ4 hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 5 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately; brined fish keeps for up to 1 day when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS : so us vide setup, Fish Spice Mix (optional, see page 54)

Use the highest-quality salmon you can find. We like to brine the The cooked fish is delicious served hot or cold; if you're serving it
fish before cooking to season it, firm it, and protect its delicate cold, cook it sous vide in oil rather than butter so that the fat won't
color. If you have time, decrease the salt to 20 g and the sugar to congeal. For firmer salmon, cook it sous vide to a core temperature
15 g, and brine the fish for 24 hours-the effect is even gentler. of 51 ·c I 124 •p.

INGREDIE NT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 1 kg 1 L/ 4Y., cups 100% CD Stir together until completely dissolved to make a brine.
Salt 50g 4Yz Tbsp 5%
Sugar 40g 2Yz Tbsp 4%
Salmon fillets, sk in a nd 600 g/ 1.3lb 4fillets 60% 0 Submerge the salmon in the brine, and refrigerate for 3- 5 hours.
p in bones removed
® Drain the brine from the salmon .
Neutral-tasting oil, 120g 130 mL/Yz cup 12% @ Preheat a water bath to 46 · c / 115 •F.
olive oil, or melted
butter
® Place each fillet with 30 g/ 30 mL/ 2 Tbsp of oi l or butter in a separate
zip-top bag. Remove as much air as possible from the bags by using the
water-disp lacement method (see page 6), and seal them.
® Cook so us vid e to a core temperatu re of45 •c / 113 •F, about 25 minutes
for fillets 2.5 cm / 1 in th ick.
0 Transfer the cooked fil lets gently from the bags to a plate.
Unsalted butter 80 g :Y. cup 8% ® Melt the butter in a nonstick frying pan ove r medium-low heat.
Fish Spice Mix 15g 2Tbsp 1.5% ® Add the fish spice, if you are using it, and in crease the heat until the
(optional) butter just starts to bubble.
see page 54
@ Add t he fil lets, and cook whi le basting with the hot butter for abo ut
30 seconds per side. Serve immediately.
Safety tipsfar lightly cookedfoo d: see page ix

We love to serve this salmon with simple sauteed asparagus a nd peas TO MAKE AH EAD
during spring. Serve with cabbage, sh iitake mushrooms, and thyme in After draining the brine in step 3, you may refrigerate the salmon fo r up to
the co ld er months. 24 hou rs.

1 Make the brine by stirring the salt and sugar into t he water until com-
pletely dissolved. If you use warm water (wh ich dissolves the sa lt a nd
sugar more quick ly), cool t he brine comp lete ly before adding t he
salmon.
6 Cook the sa lmon so us vide to a core temperature of45 •c / 113 •F. Fi ll ets
t hat are 2.5 cm / 1 in t hi ck wi ll require about 25 minutes to reach the
ta rget temperature atthe irth ickest part. Th inn er pieces may need just
12-15 minutes to cook; thicker pieces may take 30 minutes or more.
Clip t he bags to the sid e of the bath.

2 Submerge the sa lm on in the b rin e, or sea l sa lmon portions with the

brine in a zip -top bag, and then refrigerate it for 3-5 hours. Brining t he
fish firms its surface and makes it both tastier a nd eas ie r to handle. 7 Transfer the cooked fi ll ets gently from their bags to a plate so t hat they
are easier to handle.

3 Drain the brine from the sa lmon .

8 Melt the butter in a no nstick fry ing pa n ove r med ium-low heat.

4 Preheat a water bath to 46 •c / 115 •F.

9 Add th e fish spice, if you are using it, a nd the n in crease the heat until
the butter just starts to bubb le.

5 Place each fillet in a separate zip-top bag along with 30 g/ 30 mL/

2 Tbsp of oil or butter. Arrange the fill ets so th at th e longer, t hi cke r
sides are at the bottom of the bag; this preve nts them from bending
whi le cooking. Use the water-disp lace ment method (see page 6)
to remove as much air as poss ibl e from each bag, and seal it.
10 Add the fi llets, and baste the m in the pa n wit h t he hot butter for
about30 seconds per side. Serve the fis h immed iately; it is not very
hot, so cools rapidly. The fis h pairs well with seasona l vegetables.

124 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

HOW TO Poach Salmon in a Kitchen S i n k - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
This is a fun and simple way to begin enjoying the virtues of low-
temperature cooking without investing in so us vide equipment. A pot
of water preserves a constant temperature for up to 1 hour, far more
time than is necessary to cook fish-and even enough time to cook
some steaks. (A picnic cooler keeps the water temperature stable for
1 Brine the salmon by following steps 1- 3 on the previous page
(optional).
2 Choose a target core temperature for the salmon: 45 ' C/ 113 ' Ffor rare
(our preference), 48 ' C/ 118 ' F for medium, or 52 ' C/ 126 ' Ffor firm.
3 Adjust the temperature of the tap water until it is 2- 5 ' C/ 5- 9 ' F higher
than the target temperature, as measured with a digital thermometer.
4 Place a large pot in the sink, and fill it with the hot tap water. If prepar-
ing larger batches of fish, you can use a large cooler, or even fill your
entire sink with water (see page 64 in the main volume).
HOW TO Bake Salmon in a Toaster O v e n - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Your toaster oven can approximate cooking sous vide, and you won't
need an add itional finishing step. The texture ofthe salmon wi ll be
sl ightly more dense because of the higher cooking temperature and
1 Brine the salmon by following steps 1-3
on the previous page (optional). 2 Calibrate your toaster oven (see
page 4), and set it to 90-110 ' C/
200- 225 ' F.
SALMON
up to 5 hours; see page 80 for an example of this technique.) The
more food you put in the water bath, and the colder that food is, the
more the water temperature drops. To help hold the heat, bring the
food to room temperature before cooking it, and use your largest pot
and an abundantamountofwater.
5 Place each fillet, along with 30 g / 30 ml / 2 Tbsp of oil or butter,
in a separate zip-top bag. Use the water-displacement method
(see page 6) to remove as much air as possible from the bags,
and seal them .
6 Cook so us vide to the desired core temperature, about 25 minutes
for fillets that are 2.5 cm / 1 in thick. Continue with step 7 ofthe recipe
on the previous page to finish the salmon.
drier cooking environment. Cooking takes longer than in a water bath
because dry heat is not as efficient at conducting heat, but the resu lt is
still excellent.
3 Place the salmon on a small baking sheet,
and cook it until the core temperature
reaches 45 ' C/ 113 ' F, 38-40 minutes. Use
a digital thermometer to monitor the core
temperature. About halfway through the
cooking, baste the fish with a neutral-
tasting oil or clarified butter, and dust with
the Fish Spice Mix on page 54, if desired .
125
CRISPY FISH SKIN

YIELD: four pieces (each 5 em by 7.5 em/ 2 in by 3 in)

TIME ESTIMATE: 5y.f hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 5 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately after fryingj keeps for up to 1 day when refrigerated after cooking sous vide
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: advanced (handling)
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: so us vide setup, vacuum sealer

Any flavorful fish skin works well in this recipe. Softer skins, such rather than S hours. The ice-bath cooling in step S is crucial for
as those of cod and snapper, should be cooked sous vide for 3 hours handling and frying the skin properly.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT PROCEDURE

Salmon skin 2 pieces (lO em by15 em / 4 in by 6 in) 0 Preheat a water bath to 88 oC/ 190 °F.
0 Scale the fish skin .
® Remove a ll ofthe meat, fat, and sinew from the inside of the skin to
prevent it from curling.
0 Vacuum seal the pieces, and cook so us vide for 5 hours.
® Plunge the bags into an ice bath to cool comp lete ly.
Neutral frying oil as needed ® Cut open the bags, and carefully peel the cooked fish skin from the
see page xxii plastic. Pat the ski n dry.
(j) Cut the skin into pieces 5 em by 7.5 cm / 2 in by 3 in square.
® Preheat the frying oil to 185 °C/ 365 °F in a pot no more than half full.
® Put a few pieces of the fish skin, one at a time, into the oil. Use long tongs,
and be very carefu l, as t he moist skin reacts violently with the hot oil.
@ Deep-fry until very crispy, 1-3 minutes.
@ Drain on paper towels.
Salt to taste @ Season, and serve immediately.
Safety tipsfor deep frying: see page 4

TO MAKE AHEAD
After cooling the fish skins in step 5, refrigerate the sea led bags for up to
24 hours. Continue with step 6.

VARIATIONS
Baked Fish Skin Chips
To make baked chips, brush or spray the cooked skin with oil, season it,
and then sandwich it between two sili co ne mats and two baking sheets.
Bake it in a 165 °C/ 330 °Foven until crisp, 20-45 minutes.
Crispy Chicken or Pork Skin
Substitute chicken skin or pork skin for the salmon skin. At step 4, cook
so us vide for12 hours if making chi cken skin orfor18 hours if making pork
skin . Continue with ste p 5. For a recipe for Pressure-Cooked Chicharr6n,
see page 96.

126 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

Best Bets for Cooking Fish So us Vide
The steps for cooking salmon so us vide are described on page 124. The
target core temperatures listed below are our favorites, but tastes vary, so
feel free to experiment with others. We've found that about 25 minutes is
usually sufficient to bring a 2.5 cm / 1 in thick piece offish from refrigerator
temperature to the target temperature. But times depend greatly on the
thickness of the fish, so check for doneness by using a digital probe ther-
mometer(see page Bin the main volume). Be sure to set the water bath to
1•c ; 2 •F higher than the target core temperature given in the table. Fish
cooked sous vide often benefits from a finishing step, such as searing in
butter or a quick grilling, which both heats and firms the surface.

just cooked just flaking

Ingredient (•c) ("F) (• c) (• F) Note See page
black cod or true cod 45 113 48 118 benefits from dry curing for 3 hours with 7 g of salt and 5 g of sugar for every 51
100 g offish
halibut 42 108 46 115 great when seared over banked coals on the grill 202inthe
main volume
mackerel or sardine 42 108 46 115 benefits from dry curing for 3 hours with 7 g of salt and 5 g of sugar for every 51
100 g offish
salmon 40 104 45 113 brine with a solution of salt and sugar 51
snapper 46 115 50 122 delicious when drizzled with spiced oil after cooking 36

sole or fluke 48 118 52 126 with thin fillets, stack two and vacuum seal them together-the natural gelatin
will bind them gently; with thicker fillets, fold the thin ends under so that the
thickness is even from end to end; cook small fish on the bone, and sear them
in butter
tuna 42 108 55 131 give tuna a quick sear in brown butter after cooking so us vide; for cooking at 51 (brine)
55 •c / 131 •F, we brine the fish first, and then finish it with an aromatic oil 36 (oil)
(temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)

SALMON 127
HOW TO Kill and Shell a Lobster

With seafood, freshness is everything. The best way to get great she llfish
is to identify a reputable fishmonger or fish market. Shellfish should
smel l like the sea-briny but not overpowering. Buy clams, mussels, and
lobsters straight off the boat, or from tanks filled with clean water. Look
for foods that move fast at the market; it helps to eat what the locals eat
because uncommon foods tend to sit around.
Once you buy live she ll fis h, you have to ki ll it, clean it, and shell it.
A lobster tastes better if you ki ll it just before you cook it. Research sug-
gests that lobsters can feel pain, so it is worth taking the effort to dispatch
the a nima ls gently. Some claim that th e technique described be low is
the most humane method, whi le others put the lobsters to sleep in a
freezer before boi ling them (see below).

1 Place the tip of a large, sharp knife at the cross on the shell, about
2.5 cm / 1 in behind the eyes, pointing the blade away from the tail.
In one quick movement, cut deep into the head, toward the front
of the lobster.
5 Blanch the lobster tails in the boiling water for 90 seconds, and then
plunge them in the ice water. Blanch th e claws for 4 minutes, and the n
submerge them in ice water. Th is step loose ns the meat from the shell
so that it is eas ier to remove.

2 Twist the head from the body, a nd break off the claws. The lobster is
dead as soon as step 1 is complete, but nervous reflexes may sti ll be
active, so expect the extremities to twitch briefly.
6 Clean the meat from the tails by cutting the shell with good kitchen
shears and carefully peel ing it off. Wear gloves to protect your hands
from the sharp edges. Wash off any curd-like albumin that may have
ex uded during the blanching.

3 Thread a chopstick or skewer between the tail meat a nd the bottom

shell to straighten it for aesthetic purposes (optiona l). Be sure to save
the body, legs, and any dark green roe for making crustacean butter 7 Clean the meat from the claws and knuckles (the pieces that connect
the claws to the body) in the same manner.
or stock (see page 40).

4 Bring a large pot of water to a roll ing boi l. Arrange an ice bath 8 Cook the meat immediately, or vacuum seal the lobster tai ls and
lobster claws separately, and store refrigerated for up to 24 hours.
alongside.

VARIATION: Freezing the Lobster

Place the live lobsters in the freezer for about 30 minutes to put them to
sleep, but do not let the meat freeze . This reduces the shock of boiling.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Arrange an ice bath alongside. Blanch
the whole lobster in the bo ilingwaterfor 2 minutes to kill it . Work ing
quickly, separate the tail and claws from the body. Plunge the tails in ice
water. Return the claws to the boiling water for an add iti ona l 2 minutes,
and then plunge them in ice water. Finish with steps 6-8 above.

Best Bets for Cooking Shellfish So us Vide

Blanch and shu ck mussels a nd clams, as described on the next page, before
cooking them so us vide. To coo k these and other she llfish sous vide, sea l
the shucked meat along with any fl avo rings, fats, o r liquid s in a zip-top bag.
Next, se lect a target core temperature from the table below to match the
degree of doneness you prefer. Preheat a water bath to 1•c ; 2 •F higher than
the target temperature, a nd then cook for the time indi cated o r until the
core temperature of the food reaches the target. Shellfish is best lightly
cooked; fo r food-safety information, see page ix. She llfish can be served
immed iately, o r chi ll ed and served co ld . For dishes having multiple kinds
of she llfish, cook each separately, and then combine.

Barely coo ked Tender Firm See

Ingredient Preparation (• c) (°F) (min ) page
clams blanched and shu cked 48 118 10 56 133 8 65 149 5 cook in its own juice next
lobster claws she ll ed 54 129 to core 60 140 to core 65 149 to core best cooked in butter 130
lobster tails she lled 49 120 to core 54 129 to core 59 138 to co re best cooked in butter 130
mussels blanched and shucked 62 144 10 65 149 10 68 154 7 cook in its own juice 132
oysters shucked 45 113 10 48 118 10 52 126 7 cook in its own juice
scallops she ll ed, with o r 42 108 to core 50 122 to core 54 129 4 sear in a very hot pan for
without roe 10 seco nds on each side
shrimp, prawns peeled 48 118 to core 60 140 7 80 176 4 may look translucent 130
(times and temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)

128 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

HOW TO Shuck Mussels - - - - -- - -- - -- - - - - - - - - - -- - - -- -
A quick steam, followed by a plunge in to ice water, relaxes the adductor
muscles that hold mussels and clams shut. The treatment makes it easier
to shuck the mollusks, but don't assume that ifthe shel l doesn't open,
the meat inside is bad. The she ll could simply be full of mud.
1 De beard the mussels. Use the flat of a knife or needle-nose pliers to
pull out the entire beard. just severing the visible portion will leave
part of the beard inside.
2 Scrub the de bearded mussels with a stiff brush. Smell each mussel,
and discard any that do not close or are strong-smelling.
3 water
Place the mussels in a zip-top bag. Steam for 2 minutes over boiling
in a covered pot, and then plunge the bag into ice water.
4 Place a bowl under a strainer, and empty the contents of the bag into
the strainer. Co ll ect the juices- they give a flavorful boost to sauces
and broths. Transfer t he mussels to a clean bowl.
HOW TO Shuck Clams - - - - -- - - -- - - - - - - - -- -- - -- - - - -
There's nothing worse than a gritty clam. Deep-burrowing clams, such
as the softshell (long-neck) varieties can accumulate a lot of grit. Hard-
shell clams, such as littlenecks, stay closed for most of their li ves, so they
1 Soak the clams in co ld, salted water in the refrigerator for at least
4 hours to purge the sand . Use 15 g of non-iodized salt for every 1 kg
of water. (Iodine is letha l to clams.)
2 Pull the clams from the brine gently; do not disturb the sand o n the
bottom of the bowl. Scrub each shell with a dish sponge or nailbrush
reserved for th is purpose.
3 Place the clams in a zip-top bag. Steam them for 2 minutes above boil-
ing water in a covered pot to relax the adductor muscles, and then
plunge the bag into ice water.
SHEllFISH
You must pay attention to how each mussel or clam looks and smells
as you shuck it. If the meat smells terrible, that's a sure sign that it has
spoiled. Ifit looks wrinkled a nd dry rather than plump and moist, throw
it out.
5 Shuck the mussel meat from the shells over a bowl to capture addi -
tional juices. To do that, slip the blade of a smal l, sharp knife between
the two shel ls of each mussel at the wide end, and sever the adductor
muscles on both sid es . Open the shel l, and cut the meat free.
6 Al low any grit to settle to the bottom of the reserved broth, and decant
the col lected juices through a fine strainer lin ed with cheesecloth or a
coffee filter.
tend to be cleaner. You can e lim inate grit from particularly sandy clams
by soak ing them in a non-iodized sa lt brine, and by cutting away the
small sack of innards that is attached to the bottom of each clam belly.
4 Place a bowl under a strainer, and empty the contents of the bag into
the stra iner. Collect the juices-they give a flavorful boost to sauces and
broths. Transfer the clams to a clean bowl.
5 Shuck the clam meat from the shells over the strainer to capture addi-
tional juices. To do so, slip the blade of a small, sharp knife in between
the two shells of each clam, and sever the adductor muscle near the
hinge. Open the shell, and cut the meat free.
6 All ow any grit to settle to the bottom of the reserved broth, and decant
the collected juices through a fine strainer lined with cheesecloth.
129
 LOBSTER ROLL

YIELD : four servings (750 g/ 3 cups of lobster salad)

TIME ESTIM ATE : 2 hours overall, including l J;l hours ofpreparation and 30 minutes unattended
STOR AGE NOTES : cooked lobster and dressed lobster salad keep for up to 1 day when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFI C ULTY : moderate
SPE C IAL RE QU IREMENTS : sous vide setup, Vacuum-Infused Celery (see page 49), Tomato Leather (optional, see page 47)

You m ight think it's h ard to improve on an old-fashioned lobster Green apples and herbs freshen the lobster salad, and infused celery
roll- until you taste one made with lobster cooked with precision and tomato leather add a Modernist twist. Don't bother messing
to attai n ideal sweetness and tenderness. Butter infused with lobster with a boutique hot dog bun in this New England classic- go with
shells (see p age 40) adds extra flavor and color to the toasted bun . the usual supermarket variety. Fancier rolls detract from the lobster.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Live lo bsters 1.5 kg/ 3.3 1b 2 1arge lobsters 300% 0 Pre heat a wate r bath to 50 ·c/122 •f, and arrange an ice bath alo ngside.
0 Kill, blanch, and cl ean th e lobste rs; see page 128 fo r instru ctio ns.
Ne utral-tastin g o il 10 g 10 mL / 2 tsp 2% ® Place th e tail meat pieces and half of th e o il in a zip-top bag. Place th e
cl aw and knuckle meat with th e rest of th e o il in a se parate zip-to p bag.
Remove as much air as poss ibl e fro m th e bags, and sea l th em.
0 Cook the tail meat so us vide to a core temperature of 49 •c / 120 •f,
about 15 minutes, and th en plunge the bag in ice wate r.
® In crease th e water bath te mpe rature to 55 •c / 131 •f. Cook the cl aw
and knuckle meat so us vid e to a core te mperature of 54 •c / 129 •F,
about 15 minutes, and the n plunge the bag in ice wate r.
® Cut all of th e lobste r meat into chunks no large r than 1 em / 3/s in .
Cooked lobster meat, 500 g/ 1.11 b 1Y2 cups 100% (i) Combine, and mi x tho ro ughly.
from above
Mayo nnaise 200 g 1 cup 40 %
see page 25
Granny Smi th app le, 40 g Yscup 8%
fin ely di ced
Chives, thinly sli ced 4g 2Tbsp 0.8%
Tarragon, mi nced 4g 1 Tbsp 0.8%
Bl ack peppe r, gro und to taste
Salt to taste ® Season th e dressed lo bster meat .
Hot dog bun s 4 buns ® Warm th e crustacea n butter to roo m temperature, and spread it
{sto re-bought) ge nerously o n th e insid e of th e buns. Place the buns face d own in a
Press ure-Coo ked 30 g 2 Tbsp 6% dry frying pan, and toas t them ove r medi um heat until go lde n brown,
Cru stacean Butte r or a bo ut 2 minutes.
cl arifie d, unsalted bu tter
see pages 40 or 37
Vacuum -Infused Cele ry 20 g 2Y' Tbs p 4% @ Divid e th e d ressed lobster meat eve nly among the toaste d buns.
see page 49 Garnish with celery and to mato leather, and se rve imm ed iate ly.
To mato Leathe r, strips 16 strips
{optio nal)
see page 47
Safety tipsfar lightlycaakedfood: see page ix

VARIATIONS
Shrimp or Cra b Roll
Sk ip step 1- 6. At step 7, substitute cooked shrimp o r store- bo ught cooked
crab for the lo bster.

So us Vide Lobst e r Tail

To make a main co urse of lobster, preheat a wate r bath to 55 •c ; n1 •F. Seal
the she lled lo bste r tail meat with 20 g of butter in a zip -to p bag, re move
the ai r, and sea l. Coo k so us vide to a core temp erature of 54 •c / 129 •f,
abo ut 12 min utes. Serve with melted bu tter and fres h he rbs, o r wi th
Ca rameli zed Ca rrot Pu ree {see page 75) and a dusting ofC haat Masa la
{see page 53).

130 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

1 Preheat a water bath to 50 oC/ 122 oF, and arrange an ice-water bath
alongside. 6 Cut all of the lobster meat into chunks no larger than 1 em /
Discard any bits of shell you come across.
¥a in.

2 Kill, blanch, and clean the lobsters; see the step-by-step procedure on
page 128. 7 Comb ine the diced lobster, mayonnaise, apple, chives, tarragon,
and pepper, and stir unti l thoroughly mixe d.

3 Place the tail meat pieces and half of the oil in a zip-top bag. Place the
claw and knuckle meat with the rest of the oi l in a separate zip-top bag. 8 Season the dressed lobster meat with salt to taste.

Remove as much air as possib le from the bags, and seal them.
9 Spread crustacean b utter generous ly on the inside ofthe buns. Place
the buns, buttered-side down, in a frying pan over medium heat, and

4 Cook the tail meat sous vide to a core temperature of 49 OC/ 120 °F,
about 15 minutes. Immediately plunge the bag in ice water.
toast them until golden, about 2 m inutes.

10 Divide the dressed lobster meat evenly among the toasted buns.

5 Increase the temperature of the water bath to 55 °C/ l31 °F. Cook the
claw and knuckle meat so us vide to a core temperature of 54 °C/ 129 °F,
Garn ish the sandwiches with infused celery and tomato leather,
and serve them immediately.
about 15 minutes, and then submerge the bag in ice water.

SHELLFISH 131
 MUSSELS MARINIERE

YIELD: jour servings (500 g/ about 35 mussels)

TIME ESTIMATE: 45 minutes overall, including 35 minutes ofpreparation and 10 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: so us vide setup

Throughout France, you see people sitting in bistros and brasseries
feasting on bowls of sweet, tender mussels that have been cooked
in wine, savory brine juices, and garlic. This classic dish is easy to
overcook, however; all too often the mussels end up tough, dry, and
disappointing. Cooking the mussels sous vide solves that problem.
Forget the old rule that any mussel that doesn't open when
cooked is bad. By the time mussels pop all the way open, many of
them are probably overcooked. A bad mussel either smells very
strongly or looks dry and shriveled, so inspect them as you shuck
them before cooking.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Live mussels 500 g / l.llb about 35 mussels 100% 0 Preheat a water bath to 62 •c / 144 •F. Bring a pot of water to a boil, and
Dry white wine 150 g 150 mL /o/e cup 30% set a large steamer rack above the water. Arrange an ice bath alongside.
Sha llots, thinly sliced lOOg 1 cup 20% 0 Debeard and scrub the mussels (see steps 1-2 on page 129).
® Place the mussels, shallots, and wine in a heat-safe plastic bag.
0 Steam for 2 minutes, plunge the mussels into the ice bath, and then
shuck them. Collect and strain the juices (see steps 3-6 on page 129).
® Seal the stra ined juices with the mussel meats in a zip-top bag (see
page 6), and cook them sous vide forlO minutes.
0 Strain the mussels, and measure 70 g / 70 mL/ y, cup of the mu ssel juices
for use in step 10.
Extra-virgin olive oil lOg 10 mL / 2 tsp 2% 0 Saute over medium heat until the shallots and garlic are lightly browned
Shallots, minced lOg 1 Tbsp 2% and aromatic, abo ut 5 minutes.
Garlic, minced 8g 2Y' tsp 1.6%
Chili flakes 0.5g ]4 tsp 0.1% ® Add to the pan, and cook for a few seconds.
Dry white wine 45g 45 mL / 3 Tbsp 9% ® Add, and reduce until syrupy, about 4 minutes.
Mussel juice, from above 70 g 70mL /Y, cup 14% @ Add, bring to a simmer, and then remove the pan from the heat.
Italian parsley, 2g 1 Tbsp 0.4% @ Stir into the sauce, add the mussel meats, stir gently to coat, and then
thinly sliced remove the musse l meats from the pan so as not to overcook them.
Tarragon, thinly sliced lg ltsp 0.2%
Thyme leaves 1g ltsp 0.2%
Sa lt to taste @ Season, and serve immed iately.
Lemon juice to taste
Safety tipsfar lightlycaakedfood: see page ix

Mussel juices
The natural juices that come out of mussels when they open are very flavorful.
Chefs use mussel juice to add depth to butter sauces for fish and soups. Be
sure to save any extra juices-o r at least have some good bread and olive oil
handy so that you don't waste any of this precious liquid.

132 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

1 Preheat a water bath to 62 "C/ 144 "F. Bring a pot of waterto a boil. Set a
large steamer rack above the water, and arrange a n ice bath a longs id e 7 Comb ine the oil, shallots, and garl ic in a saute pan, and cook over
medium heat until the sha llots and garlic are lightly browned and
the pot. a romatic, abo ut 5 minutes .

2 De beard and scrub the musse ls by following steps 1-2 on page 129.
8 Add the ch ili flakes, a nd cook for a few seconds.

3 Place the mussels with the sha ll ots and wi ne in a heat-safe plastic bag
such as a roasting, free zer, or so us vide bag. The purpose of t he bag is 9 Add the white wine, and continu e cook ing until th e mixture turns
syrupy, abo ut4 minutes.
to capture t he jui ce; it doesn't need to be sea led.

10 Add the reserved mussel juice. Return t he mixture to a simmer,

4 Steam the mussels for 2 minutes, plunge them immediately into the ice
water, a nd then shuck the m. Co llect and strain the sh ucking juices (see
and t he n remove the pan from the heat.

steps 3- 6 on page 129). The mussels shou ld not be cooked thro ugh;
this step simply makes them eas ier to sh uck. 11 Stir in the Ita lia n parsley, tarragon, a nd thyme, add th e musse l
meats, stir gently to coat, and then remove them from the pa n
to avoid overcooking them .

5 Place t he strai ned juices and mussel meats in a zip-top bag. Remove
as much air as possible (see page 6), and seal t he bag. Cook the
mussel meats so us vide for 10 minutes. 12 Season the dish with sa lt and lemon juice, a nd serve it immedi-
ate ly. Don't let the mussels sit in the hot juices for more t han
a few seconds, or else they wil l get too firm .
Strain t he mussels, and meas ure 70 g / 70 ml/ y, cup of the juices for
6 use in step 10.

SH EllFI SH 133
 CLAMS IN CHOWDER SAUCE

YIELD: four servings (360 g I 30-40 clams)

TIME ESTIMATE: 1 hour overall, including 45 minutes ofpreparation and 15 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 1 day when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS : pressure cooker, aerolatte, whey protein isolate (optional)

In this lighter take on the classic soup, clams are dressed in a warm,
foamy sauce. For a more substantial dish that is closer to a typical
chowder, add extra chowder broth, and stir in some caramelized
onions (see page 45) and some microwave-steamed fingerling
potatoes cut into bite-size pieces (see variation on page 44).
Whey protein isolate, which we add to make the broth foamy, is a
protein derived from milk. You can find it at health-food stores, but
do not confuse it with sweet or flavored whey powders sold for pro-
tein shake mixes. If you prefer more fully cooked clam meats, see the
table on page 128 for sous vide time-and-temperature combinations.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Littleneck clams 750 g / 1.71b 30-40 clams 100% 0 Soak and scrub the clams as described in steps 1-2 on page 129.
Dry white wine 150 g 150 mL / 5/s cup 20% 0 Bring a pot of water to a boi l, and set a large steamer rack above the
Shall ots, thinly sli ced lOOg 1 cup 13% water. Arrange an ice bath alongside.
® Place the clams, win e, and shallots in a heat-safe plastic bag.
@) Steam for 2 minutes, plunge the bag into the ice bath, and then shuck the
clams. Collect and stra in the juices (see steps 3- 6 on page 129).
® Measure 240 g/ 245 mL / 1 cup of clam juice for use in step 9.
® Rinse the clam meats in co ld water.
Bacon, diced 36g 'A cup 4.8% 0 Sweat in the base of a pressure cooker over medium heat until lightly
rendered but not brown, about 2 minutes.
Yellow onion, diced 65g Yz cup 9% ® Add to the bacon, and sweat until transluce nt, about 2 minutes.
Celery, diced 65g Yz cup 9% ® Add the reserved clam juice, and pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of
1 bar / 15 psi for 15 minutes . Start timing when fu ll pressure is reached.
@ Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.
@ Stra in, and measure 200 g / 200 mL /r's cup of the clam chowder broth
for use in the next step.
Heavy cream 300g 330 mL / H's cups 40% @ Combine in a saucepan with the reserved clam chowder broth, and
simmer over low heat until reduced by about one third.
Whey protein isolate 6g lYz Tbsp 0.8% @ Whisk into the simm eri ng broth.
(option al) @ Blend the broth unti l smooth and foamy by using an immersion blender
or aerolatte.
Worcestershire sauce 0.5g 1 drop 0.07% @ Season the sauce.
Cayenne pepper 0.1 g pinch 0.01% @ Stir the clam meats into the sauce, and remove it from the heat. Allow to
Salt to taste sit 20 seconds to just warm the clams through, and serve immediately.
Safety tipsfar pressure-cooking: see page 5
Safety tipsfar lightly cookedfood: see page ix

TO MAKE AHEAD
After rinsing the clam meats in step 6, sea l them in a zip-top bag with the
remainingjuices, and refrigerate for no more than 24 hours. When ready
to make the chowder, continu e with step 7. In step 16, let the clams sit for
1 minute in the hot sa uce to warm through.

VARIATIONS
Oyster Stew
Substitute diced leeks for the bacon, and substitute oyster meats and juice
for the clams.

Pistachio Clam Chowder

At step 13, stir in 36 g/ 3 Tbsp of Pistachio Pesto (see page 22).

South of France Chowder

Add 39 g / 3 Tbsp of Rouille (see variation on page 25) at the last second
before serving.

134 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

SO US VI DE BRAISED SNAILS

YIELD: Jour servings (200 g/ 24 snails)

TIME ESTIMATE: 5Y-I hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 5 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for up to 5 days when refrigerated or up to 3 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup, canned French Helix snails
GOES WELL WITH: Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco (see page 153)

Although canned snails are already cooked, the sous vide treatment escargot by stirring them into melted butter with minced garlic and
described here infuses them with flavor and makes them wonder- parsley, or into Montpellier Butter (see page 38).
fully tender. Use braised snails in paella, or serve them solo as classic

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Canned French Helix 200g 241arge snai ls 100% 0 Preheat a water bath to 68 •c / 154 •r.
snails 0 Clean the snails. Drain the liquid, and peel away a nd discard the
stomach and intestines of the snai ls.
White chicken stock, 300g 300 mL / 1\4 cups 150% ® Combine with the cleaned snails in a bag, and vacuum seal.
frozen, or ice @ Cook so us vide for 5 hours .
see page 9
® Drain, reserving the juices.
Carrots, thinly sliced 100g 1 cup 50%
® Pick out the snail meat, and discard the vegetables and aromatics.
Sweet onion, thinly sliced 90g ?'a cup 45%
0 Serve warm, or store, refrigerated, in the reserved juices.
Salt 7.5g 2 tsp 3.8%
Thyme 0.7g 11arge sprig 0.4%
Fresh bay leaf 0.2g 11eaf 0 .1%

It doesn't take much to start a snai l farm, and anthropologists think that
sna ils were one of the first moll usks to have been farmed by humans.
Only oysters have been cu ltivated longer.

SHEllFISH 135
 NEAPOLITAN PIZZA DOUGH

YIELD: 800 g (enough for jour 30-35 em/ 12-14 in pizzas)

TIME ESTIMATE: 10 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 1 hour unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated in plastic wrap or up to 3 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: stand mixer with dough hook, Antico Caputo 00 wheat flour, vital wheat gluten

This is a classic Neapolitan pizza dough. It's best when rolled thin create an elastic dough; buy it online or at specialty food markets.
and cooked quickly at a very high temperature. Antico Caputo 00 You can substitute all-purpose flour, but you may need to add up
is an extremely fine wheat flour used by most pizzerias in Naples to to 10% more water.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

00 wheat flour 500 g 3:Y., cups 100% 0 Mix in the bowl of a stand mixer with a dough hook until fu ll y
(Antico Caputo brand) incorporated.
Water 310g 310 mL / lYHups 62% 0 Mix on medium speed for 5 minutes.
Honey or agave syrup lOg 2 tsp 2% ® Let the dough rest in the bowl forlO minutes at room temperature,
Salt lOg 2y, tsp 2% and then mix aga in for 5 minutes on medium speed.
Vital wheat gluten 2.5g l Y2 tsp 0.5% @) Transfer the dough to a wel l-floured surface, and cut it into four 200 g
(Bob's Red Mill brand) chunks . Stretch and roll it into smooth, even balls.
Active dry yeast 2.5g :Y., tsp 0.5%
Neutral frying oil as needed ® Coat the balls lightly with oil, cover them with plastic wrap, and let them
see page viii rest at room temperature for 1 hour before using.

VARIATIONS
Quinoa Pizza Dough 1 Mix the flour, water, honey, sa lt, gluten, and yeast in the bowl of a stand
mixer with a dough hook until fully incorporated.
Quinoa flour, available at health-food stores and go urm et supermarkets,
makes a nutritious pizza dough that has a dense, chewy texture and a nutty
taste. Quinoa dough is less stretchy than dough made only from wheat
flour, so use care when forming it.
2 Mix on medium speed for 5 minutes.

Substitute 250 g/U's cups of all-purpose flour and 250 g/ Ws cups of

quinoa flour for the 00 wheat flour. Increase the amount of vital wheat
gluten to 5 g / 2Y, tsp.
Buckwheat Pizza Dough
Buckwheat is the grain used to make Japanese soba. It has a hearty flavor
and a coarse mouthfeel.
Substitute fine, sifted buckwheat flour for 150 g / 1Y> cups of Antico
Caputo 00 wheat flour, and in crease the amount of gluten to 5 g / 2Y2 tsp.
Breadsticks
Divide the rested dough into 55 g pieces, and shape the pieces into batons.
Arrange the batons on a lightly greased baking sheet. Brush them lightly
with beaten egg, and sprinkle about 1 g/ y, tsp of grated Parmesan cheese
over each. Bake at 220 •c; 430 •F until golden brown, 12-15 minutes.
3 Let the dough rest in the bowl forlO minutes at room temperature,
and then mix again for another 5 minutes on medium speed. Allowing
the gluten to relax between kneadings creates an especially smooth,
stretchy dough .
4 Transfer the dough to a well-floured surface, and cut it into four chunks
of200 g each. Stretch and roll the dough into smooth, even balls.
Stretching the su rface layer develops a network of gluten that traps ai r
inside the ball, resulting in a li ghter, more blistered crust.
5 Coat the balls lightly with oil, cover them with plastic wrap, and allow
them to rise at room temperature forl hour before using. For a more
comp lex flavor, refrigerate the dough balls overnight, and then let
them rest at room temperature forl hour before using.

TROUBLESHOOTI NG TIP:
The finished dough shou ld pull away from
the sid es (as shown in the photo on page 297
in the main volume), not the bottom, of the
mixing bowl. If it does not pull away from
the sides, sprink le in a teaspoon of flour,
and let it fully mix, repeating until the sides
of the bowl are clean.

136 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

RUSTIC PIZZA DOUGH

YIELD: 1 kg (enough for jive 30-35 em/ 12-14 in pizzas)

TIME ESTIMATE: 240 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 24 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 3 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: advanced (handling)
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: stand mixer with dough hook or dough scraper; Foolish (see the next page); vital wheat gluten

The fermentation of the poolish, described on the next page, adds so it's best to use a stand mixer. If you must knead it by hand, lightly
a complex flavor to this dough and the enzymatic activity enhances flour your hands while handling it rather than stirring in more flour.
the browning of the crust by creating simple sugars. This country- Shape the pizzas gently so as not to tear them.
style dough is softer and stickier than most pizza and bread doughs,

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

All -purpose flour 500g 3y, cups 100% CDMix in the bowl of a stand mixer with a dough hook until fully incorpo-
Pool ish 312g 1Y2 cups 62% rated. For instructions on hand-kneading, see below.
see the next page 0 Continue mixing on medium speed for another 5 minutes. The dough
Water 200 g 200 mL/ Va cup 40% will stick to the bowl; do not add extra flour.
Honey or agave syrup 48g 2y, Tbsp 10% 0 Let the dough rest in the bowl for 10 minutes at room temperature,
Salt 3%
and then mix again for 5 minutes on medium speed. If the dough does
15g 5 tsp
not pull away from the sides of the bowl, sprinkl e in 1 tsp of flour, and
Vital wheat gluten lOg 2Tbsp 2% resume mixing. Repeat as needed until the sides of the bowl are clean.
(Bob's Red Mill brand)
@ Transferthe dough to a well-floured surface, and cut it into five chunks
Active dry yeast lg 14 tsp 0.2% of200 g each .
® Stretch and roll the chunks into smooth, round balls.
Neutral frying oil as needed @ Lightly coat the balls with oil, cover them with plastic wrap, and refriger-
see page viii ate them for 24 hours so that the flavor continues to develop.
0 To make a pizza crust, remove the dough from the refrigerator, and let
it rest at room temperature forl hour before forming the crust.

VARIATION: Whole Wheat Pizza Dough Rustic Pizza Dough can be made with many different flours. Other flours
Substitute whole wheat flour for a ll-purpose flour to make a dense, chewy, may yie ld a slightly more complex flavor and a more e lastic texture.
and wholesome variation.

OTHER USES FOR DOUGH

Garlic Knots "Eve rything" Pretzels Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnut Holes

Shape 15 g (wa lnut-size) pieces of dough into
ropes, a nd tie them loose ly into knots. Deep-fry
the knots in 175 ' C/ 350 ' F neutral frying oil until
go lden brown, about 90 seconds, and drain.
Alternatively, bake at 220 ' C/ 430 ' F until golden
brown, 3-4 minutes. Brush the cooked knots
with Garlic Oil (see variation on page 36),
sprink le with salt, and serve hot.
Divide the dough into 45 g portions, ro ll into
long ropes, and shape into pretzels. Place the
pretzels on a lightly greased baking sheet. Brush
them lightly with beaten egg, and sprink le them
with a mixture of20 g/ 3 Tbsp of onion flakes,
10 g / 114 tsp of black sesame seeds, 7 g / 2 tsp of
sa lt, 5 g / 2 tsp of poppy seeds, and 5 g / 1 Tbsp
of garlic powder. Bake at 220 ' C/ 425 ' F until
go lden brown, about 12 minutes.
Shape 10 g (grape-size) pieces of dough into
balls. Deep-fry the balls in 175 ' C/ 350 ' F neutral
frying oil until golden brown, about 90 seconds.
Drain, and toss in cinn amon sugar made by
mixing 100 g/ Y2 cup of sugar with 2 g / 1 tsp
of ground cinnamon. Serve hot.

PIZZA 137
POOLISH

YIELD: 1.4 kg
TIME ESTIMATE: 24 hours overall, including 5 minutes ofpreparation and 24 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps indefinitely with regular care and feeding
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy

Poolish is not a misspelling of polish or Polish. It is the French term
for "prefermented dough sponge." Similar in concept to a sourdough
starter, poolish is a living organism, sometimes known as a "mother
dough " or "pre-ferment." Temperature and humidity determine the
rate at which poolish develops its flavor and aroma. This recipe will
make a little more than you need for our Rustic Pizza Dough recipe
on the previous page, but with regular care and feeding, the poolish
can be kept alive for years. You can use it to make breads and pastries
as well as pizza crusts. Don't omit the whole wheat flour; its nutrients
help the poolish thrive.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 875g 875 mL / 3:Y., cups 350% 0 Mix all thoroughly.
Bread flour 250g 1:Y., cups 100% 0 Place in a deep container, filling to no more than one-quarter full to
Whole wheat flour 250g 1:Y., cups 100% allow for rising, and cover it.
Active dry yeast 1g Y., tsp 0.4% ® Store the covered container in a dark place at15-21 . C/60-70 •F.
0 Check the next day for flavor and aroma . It should be bubbly and smell
sweet and yeasty, with light sour notes. Stir before using.

1 Mix the flours, water, and yeast thoroughly. 3 Store the container in a dark area, such as a
kitchen cabinet, where the temperature will 4 ofCheck the appearance, flavor, and aroma
the pool ish after 24 hours. It should
remain within the range 15-21 . C/ 60-70 •F. look bubbly, taste sl ightly sour, and smell
2 the
Place in a conta iner large enough to allow
mixture to expand to four or five times Cooler temperatures slow fermentat ion; sweet and yeasty, slightly like alcohol. Stir
its starting size as it rises, and cover it. warmer temperatures can accelerate fer- before using, and see the note below for
mentation so much that the yeast dies. instructions on how to care for the pool ish.

Care and feedi ng of poo lish Starters

To keep the poolish alive, you must feed it every Sourdough starters are a form of pool ish that are
other day for the first two weeks after you bu ild inocu lated with both yeast and bacteria (usua lly
it. Do not refrigerate it during this period. To feed lactobacilli) that produce lactic acid and, with it,
the pool ish, remove half of it, weigh that portion, the characteristic sour taste of sourdough. Sour-
and then either discard it or use it for baking. dough pool ish must be started from a culture.
Next, whisk equal weights of water and flour into You can order many kinds of starter cu ltures from
the poolish remaining in the container; the total Sourdough Inte rnationa l (www.sourdo.com).
weight of the water and flour shou ld equal the
weight of the pool ish you removed . Cover it until
the next feed ing.
After two weeks, refrigerate the poo lis h, which
will cause the yeast to go dormant. Now you need
to feed it only once a week. After each feeding, let
the pool ish sit out for a few hours before covering
it and returning it to the refrigerator.

138 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

NO-KNEAD PIZZA DOUGH

YIELD: 850 g (enough for four 30-35 em/ 12- 14 in pizzas)

TIME ESTIMATE: 170 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 17 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 3 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS: vital wheat gluten

This pizza crust is light and fluffy, flavorful, and easy to make. The but it is much gentler. Never press or work the dough, or you will
dough is based on Jim Lahey's recipe for No-Knead Country Bread. squeeze out the bubbles; just fold, let rest, and repeat.
Folding the dough may at first seem like a variation on kneading,

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

All-purpose fl o ur 50 0g 3YJcups 100% @ Mix in a large bowl.
Salt 10 g 2Yz tsp 2%
Vital wheat gluten 5g 1 Tbsp 1%
(Bob's Re d Mill bra nd)
Active dr y yeast 1.5g Yz tsp 0.3%
Water 375g 375 mL / lo/o cups 75% 0 Add to the dry ingre di ents, and stirto com bin e.
0 Cove r the bowl with a clean, dry dish towel, a nd let the dough rest in
a warm place (21-27 "C/ 70-80 "F) for16 -48 ho urs.
0 Scrape the dough o nto a well-floured work surface.
® Fold the dough in ha lf gently seve ra l tim es, without pressing or sq ueez-
ing, and continue folding until it becomes so springy and e lastic that it
no longer fo lds easi ly. Let the dough rest for 1 minute. Repeat for a total
of e ight folds in 5 minutes.
@ Cut the dough into four chunks of200 g each. Stretch a nd roll each
pi ece into a smooth, round ball .
Neutra l-tasting oil as needed 0 Coat th e balls lightly with oil, cove r them with plastic wra p, and let th em
rest at room temperature for1 hour before using.

Developing flavors
If you a ll ow the dough to fe rment for 48 hours or longer, more complex
yeast and sourdo ugh flavors will deve lop, simila r to what yo u would get
with a pool ish (see the previous page).

HOW TO Knead Dough by Hand - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

If you don 't own a sta nd mixer, you can still ma ke pizza! Here a re simple
instructions for prope rl y kneading dough by ha nd, which ca n be used
when mak ing any o f our reci pes for pizza doug h.

1 Mix t he ingredients in a bowl until fully

incorporated. Use a wooden spoo n.
2 Knead the dough by ha nd for 7- 8 minutes.
Work on a cool steel or marble surface, if
possible. The dough will stick to you r ha nds,
but t ry not to add extra flour. To release
dough from yo ur hands when you have fin-
ished kneading, rub your hands with flour.
3 Letthe dough restfo r10 minutes, and
knead it again for 7-8 minutes. It shou ld
feel springy a nd smooth. If it is sti ll sticky,
sprinkl e in a teaspoon of flour, and inco rpo-
rate fully. Co ntinue with steps 4-7.

If yo u find the dough is sti ck ing to your hands and

beco mes unworkab le, fold th e dough with one
hand, a nd use a dough scraper in the other.

PIZZA 13 9
HOW TO Make a Pizza

You can build a great pizza if you master three c ru c ia l eleme nts: the the pizza to cook through quickly a nd eve nly, producing a combi nation
dough, the toppings, and the baking. Stretching out pizza dough is a of crisp and chewy textures. Baking a pizza well requires the right tools-
delicate art that rewards patience and practice . Topping a pizza is a ll a very hot and stable oven and baking surface, a pizza peel of the right
about balance: finding that idea l ratio of dough to toppings that allows size-and a keen sense of timing.

1 Remove the pizza dough from the refrigerator, cover it, and let it warm
for an hour to room temperature. If the dough was frozen , first defrost 6 Place the dough onto a pizza peel. jerk the peel sharply back and forth;
this prevents the dough from stick ing to the peel.
it in the refrigerator overn ight. Covering the dough keeps the surface
from drying out and forming a crust.
7 Spread the sauce even ly over the dough, but leave the outermost
2.5 cm / 1 in ofthe perimeter dry.

2 While the dough is warming, prepare a baking surface (see page 301
in the main volume for options). Set the oven temperature as high as it
will go; 260 •c ; soo · Fis a minimum. 8 Sprinkle grated cheese even ly over the sauce.

3 Stretch and flatten the dough on a floured work surface by using your
fingers to press the middle of the dough flat, and then work the dough
9 To avoid losing heat from the oven, slid e the pizza from the peel onto
the baking surface as quickly as possible.

outward. Leave a narrow ridge at the perimeter.

10 Cook the pizza until the crust turns brown and blisters, 3-5 minutes.
Some of the larger bubbles shou ld look almost burnt.
4 Dust a pizza peel (o r a baking sheet) with a light, even dusting of flour.
Tap the side of the peel on the counte rtop to knock off any excess
flour. If the cooked pizza crust tastes like burnt flour, the peel was
overfloured.lfthe pizza crust sticks, you probably used too little flour.
11 Remove the pizza from the oven by using the pizza peel or baking
sheet, and slide it on a cooling rack . This keeps the crust crisp.

5 Drape the dough over the back of your hand, and then rotate it slowly.
The weight of the dough should gently stretch it to a circular shape
12 Season the pie with fresh basil, chili fl akes, salt, and olive oil. Don't
forget to season the very edge of the crust, and give it a littl e drizzle
and even thickness, 30-35 cm / 12-14 in. in diameter. Small blisters of o il, too. Serve the pizza immediately.
and bubbles should form in the dough. These are good!

CLASSIC PIZZA VARIATIONS

Napolitana Pizza Funghi Pizza Hawaiian Pizza
Pizza Sauce 65 g \4 cup Pizza Sauce 65 g \4 cup Pineapple Marinara 100 g o/s cup
see variation on page 32 see variation on page 32 Sauce
Mozzare lla cheese, grated 125 g lo/a cups Mozzarella cheese, grated 125 g lo/a cups see var iation on page 32

Roasted red pepper, 30 g Va cup Wild mushrooms 125 g :Y., cup Mozzare lla cheese, grated 125 g lo/a cups
sliced (such as chanterelles, Culatello or prosciutto, 50 g 3-5 slices
Olives, sli ced 25g 2Tbsp yellow foot, maitake, thinly sliced
White anchovy fillets or porcinis), sauteed
20g 7-9 fillets Follow steps 1-11. Garnish the baked pizza
Pecorino Romano, shaved 15 g \4 cup Follow steps 1-8. Add the sauteed wild mush- with the culate llo or prosciutto, and serve
Mint leaves 3g 1 Tbsp rooms. (If using black trumpet mushrooms, it immediate ly.
add them raw rather than sauteed .) Continue
Follow steps 1-8. Add the peppers and olives, with step 9.
and continue with step 9. Garnish the baked
pi zza with the a nchovies, Peco rino Romano,
and torn mint leaves, and serve it imm ediately.

A well-cooked pizza has sco rched blisters on the bottom of the crust-
a lthough pizza can also be delicious without a blistered crust. If you don't
see any blisters, your cook ing surface is not hot enough. You can try using a
metal plate, as described on page 301 in the main volume. Also see page 34
in the main volume for a gu id e to ovens and baking eq uipment .

140 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

PIZZA MARGHERITA

YIELD: one 30-35 em/ 12- 14 in pizza

TIME ESTIMATE: 15 minutes overall (not including preheating time)
STORAGE NOTES : serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: advanced (equipment)
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: steel plate 12 mm / !12 in thick, pizza peel

This is a great basic pizza. The variations you can create are endless,
but don't go overboard with your toppings: more than 150- 200 g of
toppings ca n render the crust wet and doughy. Many people put too
much sauce or cheese on a margherita pizza, so it quickly gets soggy.
You can vacuum-dry buffalo mozzarella (see photos on page 304 in
the main volume) or use packaged, shredded mozzarella instead.
Another approach is to add burrata or another wet mozzarella cheese
to the pizza after you take it out of the oven. For an illustrated guide
to m aking pizzas, see the previous pages.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Pizza dough
see pages 136, 137, an d 139
Pizza Sauce
see variation on page 32
Vacuum-dried buffalo
mozzarell a cheese, torn
into pi eces, or shredded
mozzarella
Fresh basil leaves, torn
Chili flakes
Salt
Extra-virgin olive oil
200 g 1 ball 100% CDRest the dough until it has warmed to room temperature, abo ut1 hour
if previou sly refrigerated .
0 While the dough is warming, place a 12 mm / y, in thick steel plate on the
middle rack of the oven. Set the oven to its highest setting, a minimum
of260 •c / 500 •F, and preheatfor1 ho ur.
® Stretch and flatten the dough on a fl oured work surface. Press the middle
of the dough flat with yo ur fingertips, and work the dough outwa rd,
leaving a narrow ridge at the perimete r. Stretch it over the back of yo ur
hand into a ci rcl e 30-35 cm / 12-14 in . in diameter.
@ Place the round o nto a lightly floured pizza peel, and then give the peel
a sharp jerk to prevent sticking.
80g 5y, Tbsp 40% ® Spread the sauce even ly over the dough, leaving a dry perimeter 2.5 em /
1 in wid e.
80 g 1\4 cups 40 % ® Sprinkle the cheese even ly over the sauce.
0 Slid e the pizza onto the stee l plate as quickly as possible.
® Coo k until the pizza crust has browned and bli stered and some of the
larger bubbles lo ok almost burnt, 3-5 minutes .
® Remove the pizza from the oven using the pizza peel, an d place it on
a cool ing rack.
3g 7-8 1eaves 4% @ Season the pizza, drizzle o live oil around the perimeter of the crust,
to taste and serve it imm ediate ly.
to taste
to taste

For pizza topping ideas, see Classic Pizza Variations

on the previous page and Pizza Toppings o n page 143 .

PIZZA 141
OVEN-FRIED PIZZA

YIELD: one 30-35 em/ 12-14 in pizza

TIME ESTIMATE: 15 minutes overall (not including preheating time)
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: advanced (handling)
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: large cast-iron skillet, pizza peel

Old Forge, Pennsylvania, is a coal-mining town known for its unusual creates a crust with a completely different flavor than you find on
style of pizza, which is rectangular and fried in oil for a crispy crust. a baked pizza. When done properly, most of the oil stays in the pan
Our oven-fried pizza is not the true Old Forge style created by the and does not make the pizza greasy. Don't overload the pizzas with
Ghigiarelli family, but it is inspired by the original. Frying the pizza toppings, or they won't cook evenly.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Pizza dough 200 g 1 ball of dough 100% 0 Bring the pizza dough to room temperature.
see pages 136, 137, and 139
0 Preheat the oven to its highest setting, a minimum of260 •c / 500 • f for
Sauce, cheese, no more than 175 g tota l at least1 hour.
and toppings
see th e next page
® Stretch and flatten the pizza dough on a floured work surface. Press the
middle of the dough flat with your fingertips, and work the dough out-
ward, leaving a narrow ridge at the perimeter (see page 140). Stretch
the dough over the back of your hand until it is the diameter of your
cast-iron skill et.
0 Place the dough onto a lightly floured pizza peel. Top evenly with sauce,
cheese, and desired toppings . When finished, give the peel a quick jerk
to make sure it is not stick ing to the crust. If it is, blow air underneath the
crust, and add flour to the peel.
® Cut a small X into the center.
Neutral frying oil 80g 85 mL/:Ys cup 40% @ Preheat a cast-iron skillet over high heat until very hot, 3-5 minutes.
see page viii
0 Add the oil to the pan, and continue to heat until just smoking.
® Slide the pizza carefu lly into the hot oil. Transfer the pan immediately
into the hot oven, and cook until brown and bubbly, 3-4 minutes.
® Remove the pan from the oven. Lift the pizza onto a baking sheet lined
with paper towels, let it drain, and then serve it immediately. To make
additional pizzas, scoop out any bits from the oil or add fresh oil, and
reheat the sk ill et until the oil starts to smoke.

VARIATION: Deep-Dish Fried Pizza

For a thicker, chewier pie that is closer to a crispy focaccia, double the
quantity of dough, and increase the cooki ng time at step 8 to 7-8 minutes .

142 MODERNIST CUISIN E AT HOME

PIZZA TOPPINGS

When adding toppings to a pizza, be judicious. Overdressing the pie
can knock its flavors out ofbalance and make the dough soggy. Also
take care to precook any ingredients that won't cook fully during the
short time the pizza bakes. You can use fresh ingredients as a garnish
after the baking is done to add contrast in texture and temperature.
Season the finished pie just before serving with a drizzle of your best
extra-virgin olive oil and a sprinkling of red pepper flakes and salt.
The quantities listed here are scaled for a 30-35 em / 12-14 in pizza.
Steps and substitutions refer to the recipe for Pizza Margherita on
page 141.

Broccoli Raab Pizza Genovese Pizza

Broccoli raab (rapini) 50 g Y, cup Pistachio Pes to 75g Y.. cup
see page22
Pressure-Cooked Garli c 50 g 3Tbsp
Confit, pureed Vacuum-dried buffalo 100 g 'Ia cup
see page44 mozzarella cheese
see photos on page 304 in the main vo lume
Ricotta cheese (goat's or BOg '/aTbsp
cow's milk) Brussels sprouts, shaved 65 g 1\4 cups
Chanterelle mushrooms, 6Sg 'Ia cup Fres h basil leaves, torn 3g Bleaves
sauteed Cracked black pepper to taste
Lemon zest, grated 1g 1 tsp
Follow steps 1-4. In step 5, substitute pistachio pes to for the pizza sauce.
Roast the broccoli raab at 190 •c/375 •F until it is lightly browned . In step 6, use 100 g /'/a cup of vacuum-dried buffalo mozzarella. Top with
Follow steps 1- 4. In steps 5 and 6, substitute ga rlic con fit puree for the shaved Brussels sprouts, and continue with step 7. Garnish the baked
the pizza sauce and ricotta for the mozzarella. Top with sauteed chante- pizza with the basil leaves and cracked black pepper, and serve
relles and roasted broccoli raab. Continue with step 7. Garnish the baked it immediately.
pizza with lemon zest, and serve it immediately.

Capicola Pizza Finocchiona Pizza

Pizza Sauce BOg 5\/, Tbsp Italian sausage with 100 g y, cup / 1-2 1inks
see variation on page 32 fenne l seed, cooked
Vacuum-dried buffalo 100g '/a cup Heavy cream SOg 55 mL / Y.. cup
mozzarella cheese Mozzarella cheese, BOg 1\4 cups
see photos on page 304 in th e main volume
grated
Capicola (Coppa), 25g 4-5 sl ices Fenne l, sliced and sauteed 33 g '/a cup
thinly sliced
Leeks, sliced and sauteed 32 g '/a cup
Arugula 35g 1 cup
Green ch ili es, thinly sliced 10 g 1Y, Tbsp Follow steps 1-4. Crumble the cooked sausage into the cream, mix well,
and substitute for the pizza sauce in step 5. Top with the cheese, fennel ,
Follow steps 1-4. Add the pizza sauce and mozzarella, and then top with and leeks, and continue with step 7.
the capicola, and contin ue with step 7. Garnish the baked pizza with the
arugula and green chi lies, and serve it immediately.

Uovo Pizza Pizza Cruda

Brown butter 20g 20 mL / lY2 Tbsp Cherry tomatoes so g y, cup
see page 37 Prosciutto, thinly sliced 35g 3 sli ces
Pecorino Romano cheese, 3Sg '/a cup and cut into ribbons
grated Arugula 3Sg 1 cup
Sage leaves, julienned 1g 4-5 leaves Parmesan cheese, shaved 30g y, cup
Ground black pepper to taste
Follow steps 1- 9. Garnish the baked pizza with the cherry tomatoes,
Quail eggs 5-7 eggs
prosciutto, arugula, and shaved Parmesan cheese, and serve it
Follow steps 1-4. Substitute brown butterfor the pizza sauce in step 5 and immediately.
Pecorino Romano for the mozzarella in step 6. Top with sage and black
pepper, and continue with step 7. When the crust is just set but not brown,
remove the pizza from the oven, and top it with the raw quail eggs. Return
the pie to the oven, and continu e with step B.

PIZZA 143
 MAC AND CHEESE
YIELD: five servings (BOO g/ 5 cups)
TIME ESTIMATE: 30 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: serve pasta immediatelyj cheese sauce keeps for 1 week when refrigerated
or up to 2 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sodium citrate
This recipe has been one of the most popular in Modernist Cuisine Elbow macaroni is the classic pasta for mac and cheese, but any
since that book appeared. Use it as a template to create your own kind of pasta works. Those varieties having a rough surface hold
version of a refined mac and cheese. There are so many potentially the sauce better. Although cheese lovers might be tempted to boost
great cheese mixes and accompanim ents that it was hard to pick just the sauce-to-past a ratio, keep in mind that the sauce is very rich.
the six that we have space for here. A little goes a long way.
INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE
Water or milk 26Sg 265 mL / 1'/s cups 93% CD Combine in a pot, whisk to dissolve, and bring to a simmer over medium
Sodium citrate 11g 4% heat.
White cheddar cheese, 285g 4cups 100% 0 Add into the simmering liquid gradually, blending each addition with an
finely grated immersion blender until melted and complete ly smooth.
Water as needed fo r cooki ng the pasta ® Bring a large pot ofwaterto a boil.
Dry macaroni 240g 2 cups 84% @) Boil until al dente according to the package directions, 5-6 minutes.
® Drain. Do not rinse the pasta.
® Stir in the warm cheese sauce, and fold in any accompanime nts you wish
to add (see the variations below).
Salt to taste <V Season the mac and cheese, and serve it immediately.
(adapted from Harold McGee)

VARIATIONS
In the variations below, substitute the cheeses listed for the white cheddar
cheese at step 2, and fold in the add itions listed at step 6.
1 Whisk the sodium citrate into the water or milk in a pot until fully
dissolved, and then bring to a simmer.

Mac with jack and Stilton

Cheeses: 200 g / 3 cups of jack and 50 g / y, cup of Stilton
Fold in: roasted bell peppers and wilted baby spi nach
2 Add the finely grated cheese, one spoonful at a time, to the simmer-
ing liquid on the stove top. Use an immersion blender to blend in
each spoonful of cheese until the cheese has melted and becomes
Mac with Sharp Cheddar and Swiss comp lete ly smooth . Set the cheese sauce aside whi le you cook the
Cheeses: 200 g / 3 cups of sharp cheddar and 85 g / 1 cup of Swiss macaroni, or refrigerate it until you are ready to reheat it.
Fold in: chunks of roasted apple and crispy bacon bits

Mac with Gorgonzola and Fontina

Cheeses: 50 g / y, cup of Gorgonzo la and 235 g / 3 cups of young Fontina 3 Bring a large pot of water to a boil.

Fold in: walnuts and sauteed mushrooms

Mac and Gruyere 4 Boil the macaroni until it is at dente, as instructed by the package
directions, or for 5-6 minutes.
Cheeses: 285 g / 4 cups of Gruyere
Fold in: roasted ca uliflower and roasted tomatoes

Mac with Goat Gouda and Cheddar 5 Drain the pasta. Do not rinse it.

Cheeses: 142 g / 2 cups of goat Gouda and 142 g/ 2 cups of goat cheddar
Fold in: Pressure-Cara melized Onions (see page 45) and black olives 6 Stir the warm cheese sauce into the pasta. Fold in any flavor accom-
paniments (see the variations at left for ideas).

7 Season the mac and cheese with sa lt to taste. Serve it immediately.

WHILE YOU'RE AT IT
Broccoli with Cheese Sauce
Fondue
Make a deli cious side dish by substituting steamed broccoli for the pasta.
At step 1, substitute 200 g / 200 mL /7's cup of water and 11 8 g / 120 ml /
We cut the broccoli into bite-size pieces so that the florets are enve loped
by the cheese sauce, just as pasta would be. Also try substituting cau li-
'/2 cup of dry white wine for the water. At step 2, whisk in the cheese rather
than using a blender so that the fondue is appropriately stringy. For a classic
flower, steamed finger ling potatoes, green beans, she ll ed edamame,
Swiss interpretation, use Emmental cheese, and add a dash of kirsch.
sauteed button mushrooms, baby bok choy, or Brussels sprouts.

144 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

PERFECTLY MELTING CHEESE SliCE

YIELD: 500 g/ 12-14 slices

TIME ESTIMATE: 2 ~ hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 2 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keepsfor 10 days when refrigerated or up to 2 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sodium citrate
USED IN: Modernist Cheeseburger (see page 91), Grilled Cheese Sandwiches (see page 150)

By using sodium citrate, an emulsifying salt, you can make any cheese sandwiches, vegetables, apple pie, or any other dish needing
cheese into slices that melt as perfectly as American-style sandwich a melted cheese that doesn't separate. You can either form the cheese
cheese does. These slices are perfect for cheeseburgers, grilled into a thin sheet, or mold it into a cylinder or block for slicing later.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Cold wh eat bee r
(or water)
Sodium citrate
see page 71 in the main volume
Gruye re cheese, grated
Sharp cheddar cheese,
grated
115g 115 mL /Yz cu p 57.5% @ Preheat the oven to its lowest temperature.
0 Line a baking sheet with a silico ne mat, or lightly o il the sheet, and pl ace
14g 7% it in the oven to warm wh ile you pre pare the cheese.
0 Co mbine in a pot, stir until dissolved, and then bring to a simme r over
me dium heat.
200 g 3 cu ps 100% 0 Add gradu a lly to the simm e ring liquid . Use an imme rsion ble nde r to
180 g 3 cups 90% blend in each add ition until it has melted and is comp letely smooth.
® Po ur the liquid cheese mixture onto the warm baking sheet. Tip the
sheet as needed to form an even layer. Alternative ly, pour the cheese
into a mold coated with cook ing spray.
® Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until fully set, at least 2 hours.
0 Cut into rounds or squares 7.5 cm / 3 in across. Place plastic w rap o r
parchment paper between the slices to prevent them from sti cki ng
together, an d store refrigerated or frozen .

We deve loped this cheese slice technique for the Mushroom Swiss Burger
reci pe in Modernist Cuisine. In that version, we added a lot of ad ditiona l
liq uid (beer!). We wanted the cheese to flow well, so we a lso added ca rra-
geenan, a thickener ex tracted from seaweed, to adj ust the viscosity of the
cold cheese. Since t he n, however, we have discovered that the carrageenan
isn't necessary if yo u add less liquid, as we do he re. The sod ium citrate, on
the othe r ha nd, is indispensab le for preventing the cheese from separating
when it me lts.

SPECIAL SCALING FOR THE SODIUM CITRATE

If you a re scaling the yie ld of this reci pe up or down, yo u ca n ca lculate how
much sod ium cit rate to use by weighing th e li qu id and the grated cheeses
together, a nd multiplying by 2.8% of the tota l weight. For examp le, when
making 750 g of cheese sli ces, use 21 g of sod ium citrate.

MAC AND CHEESE 145

BAKED MAC AND CHEESE
YIELD: five servings (900 g/ 5 cups)
TIME ESTIMATE: 45 minutes overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 15 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated before baking
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPEC IAL REQU IR EMENTS: sodium citrate, Cheese Crumble (see page 149)

The key to excellent baked mac and cheese is to parcook (partially undercooking and overcooking is incredibly fine. You can substitute
cook) the macaroni just long enough to ensure that it becomes any of the cheese combinations from the variations on page 144 for
tender rather than mushy during b aking. The threshold between the cheese mixture here.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Water as needed for cooking the pasta 0 Place a metal baking sheet in the freezerfor at least 30 minutes.
0 Preheat the oven to 260 •c; 500 •f.
® Bring a large potofwaterto a boil.
Dry macaroni 200g TY2 cu ps 44% 0 Parcook for 2Y2 minutes .
® Drain. Do not rinse the pasta.
® Spread the macaroni immediate ly into a single layer on the co ld baking
sheet. Coo l for 5 minutes, uncovered, and then measure 450 g / 3Y2 cu ps
for use in step 11.
Water or milk 185g 185 mL/:Y.. cup 41 % 0 Combine in a pot, whisk until disso lved, a nd then bring to a simm e r
Sodium citrate 13g 3% over medium heat.
Gruyere cheese, grated 200g 3y, cups 44% ® Gradually add to the simmering liquid, using an imm e rsion blenderto
Cream cheese 85g y, cup 19% blend each addition until it has melted and is comp lete ly smooth.
Sharp cheddar cheese, 65g y, cup 14% ® Cool slightl y; the cheese should re main fluid . Measure 450 g / 2 cups
grated of the cheese mixture for use in the next step.
Cheese mixture, 450 g 2cups 100% @ Comb ine.
from above
Dry musta rd powd er 0.5g pin ch 0.1%
Cayenne pep per to taste
(optional)
Parcooked maca roni, 450g 3y, cups 100% @ Fold the reserved macaroni into the warm cheese mixture, and season
from above it to taste.
Salt to taste @ Divide the mixture even ly into five ramekins, or pour it into one large
baking dish.
Cheese Crumble TOO g TY2 cups 22% @ Sprinkle generous ly over the mac and cheese.
see page 149 G Bake until golden brown a nd bubbly, 13-15 minutes. Serve hot.

TO MAKE AHEAD
After coo ling the maca roni in step 6, toss it in enough neutra l-tasting oil to
lightly coat the pasta, a nd refrigerate it until ready to use. Th e cheese sauce
will keep forT wee k when refrigerated and for up to 2 months when frozen .
Th e mac a nd cheese ca n be prepared through step 11, and then refrigerated
for up to 3 days. Keep in mind that the pasta wi ll co ntinue to abso rb moist-
ure, so it will soften over time . Do not top with the cheese crumb le until
just before baking. Baking th e mac a nd cheese from the refrigerator will
require an additional l0 -12 minutes.

146 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

1 Place a metal baking sheet in the freezer to chi ll for at least 30 minutes.

2 Preh eat the oven to 260 oc / 500 °F.

3 Bring a large pot of water to a boil.

4 Parboil the macaroni for 2Y2 minutes. Although the surface of the pasta
will be coo ked, the interior will still be raw and crunchy. The macaroni
wi ll fini sh cooking in the oven.

5 Drain the cooked pasta, but do not rin se it. Proceed immediately to
the next step.

6 Spread the pasta into a single layer on the ch ill ed baki ng sheet, and
allow it to coo l, uncovered, for 5 minutes. This technique efficiently
coo ls th e macaroni, but doesn't rins e any of the starch from its surface.
When it has coo led, meas ure 450 g/3Y2 cups of th e pasta for use in
step 11.

7 Whisk the sodium citrate into the water or milk in a pot until it has
dissolved, and then bring the liquid to a simmer over medium heat.

8 Add the cheeses into the liquid, one spoonful at a time, while the
mixture simm ers on the stove. Use an imm ersion blender to blend
each spoonful until it has melted and becomes comp letely smooth.

9 Cool t he cheese slightly- it sho uld remain fluid -and then measure
450 g/ 2 cups for use in the next step.

10 Comb ine the sp ices with the measured cheese mixture.

11 Fo ld the measured macaroni into the warm cheese mixture, and

season it w ith sa lt to taste.

12 Divide the mac and cheese eve nly into five ramekins, or pour it
into one large baking dish.

13 Sprinkle the cheese crumbl e ge nerous ly over the top of each

servi ng.

14 Bake until the cheese turns go ld en brow n and bubb ly, 13- 15 minutes.
Place the dish in a baking pan to catch any bubbling sa uce and
prevent burning. Serve hot.

MAC AND CHEESE 147

"FAT-FREE" MAC AND CHEESE

YIELD: five servings (750 g I 4 cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 1¥1 hours overall, including 30 minutes of preparation and 1~ hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately; cheese water keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or for up to
6 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup

The flavor compounds in cheese, much like those in tea leaves and
coffee beans, dissolve in water. We take advantage of that fact by
cooking pasta in cheese water, a technique that transfers flavor to
the macaroni and allows us to make a delicate, refined dish that
contains little fat yet retains much of the robust flavor of traditional
mac and cheese.
We also add pureed cauliflower, which mimics the rich mouth-
feel and color of cheese sauce but doesn't weigh it down. It is easy to
make cheese water, and once you've tasted it, you will probably want
to make extra to keep on hand. It freezes well and makes a wonderful
soup base. You can also use it as a broth for glazed spring vegetables
or braised winter greens.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 150 g 150 mL / o/s cup 30% 0 Combine the cau liflower and water in a pot, and simmer unti l very
Cauliflower, thinly sliced 100 g 1Y2cups 20% tender, about 30 minutes.
0 Drain.
® Puree until smooth.
@ Sieve, and measure 75 g / \4 cup of the cauliflower puree for use in
step12.
Water SOOg 500 mL / 2Va cups 100% ® Preheat a water bath to 80 ' C/ 176 ' F.
jack cheese, finely grated 275g 4cups 55% @ Combine together in a large (4 L/ 1 gal) zip-top bag, remove as much air
Gruyere cheese, finely 275g 4cups 55% as possible from the bag (see page 6), and seal it.
grated Q) Cook so us vide for 30 minutes.
® Cool for15 minutes at room temperature.
® Strain through a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth to collect the liquid.
Measure 500 g / 500 mL / 2Ya cups ofthe cheese water for use in the
next step. (See note below on uses for cheese solids.)
Sugar 2g y, tsp 0.4% @ Combine with the cheese water in a medium pot, stir to dissolve, and
bring to a boil over high heat.
Dry macaroni 180g 1\4 cups 36% @ Stir into the boiling cheese water, and reduce the heat to medium.
@ Cook until most of the cheese water has been absorbed and the
macaroni is just al dente, about 7 minutes. Fo ld the reserved caul iflower
puree into the mac and cheese.
Salt to taste @ Season the mac and cheese, and serve it warm.

VARIATIONS WHILE YOU'RE AT IT: Cheese Crisps

Mac and Fontina
Cheese: 550 g/ 6 cups of young Fontina, finely grated
Fold in: Pressure-Caram elized Onions (see page 45) or 75 g of
Mushroom Puree (see page 63)
Mac and Parmesan
Cheese: 550 g / 9 cups of Parmesan, finely grated
Fold in: Creamed Spinach (see page 82) or thinly sliced sun-dried
tomatoes
The cheese solids left over after straining the cheese water in step 9 have
lost some of their flavor, but they are very tasty when dri ed. Spread them
on a baking sheet, and bake them at 175 ' C/ 350 ' F until they turn golden,
about 45 minutes. Then break them up, and use them as a garnish for baked
potatoes or green salads, as part of a savory cracker, or as a substitute for
the cheese crumbs in step 9 of our recipe for Cheese Crumble (see the
next page).

Mac and Cheddar

Cheese: 550 g / 8 cups of sharp cheddar, finely grated
Fold in : broccoli puree or cubes of roasted app les

148 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

1 Combine the cauliflower and water in a pot, and simmer until the
cauliflower becomes very tender, about 30 minutes.
2 Drain the cau lifl ower.
3 Blend the cauliflower into a smooth puree .
9 Place a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth over a bowl, and strain
the cheese-water mixture, collecting the cheese water in the bowl.
Reserve 500 g/ 500 mL / 2Va cups of the cheese waterfor use in the
next step. Store the remaining cheese water in the refrigerator or
freezer for another use, and see the note on the previous page for
suggested ways to use the remaining cheese solids .

4 Pass the puree through a sieve, and measure 75 g / 1,4 cup of it for use
in step 12.
10 Combine the reserved cheese water and the sugar in a medium pot.
Stir until the sugar dissolves, and then bring the mixture to a boil
over high heat. A lot of the natural sweetness of the cheese was left
behind in the cheese solids, so the pinch of sugar helps to round out

5 Preheat a water bath to 80 °C/ 176 °F. the flavor.

6 Combine the cheeses and the water in a large (4 L/ 1 gal) zip-top

bag. Use the water-displacement method (see page 6) to remove 11 Stir the dry macaroni into the cheese water, and reduce the heat to
medium.
as much air as possible from the bag, and seal it.

7 Cook the cheeses sous vide for 30 minutes. Th e end result should look 12 Cook the pasta until it has absorbed most of the cheese water and is
just a l dente, about 7 minutes. Fold the reserved cauliflower puree
a bit like curdled milk. into the mac and cheese.

8 Remove the bag from the bath, and let it cool for 15 minutes at room
temperature.
13 Season the mac and cheese with salt to taste, and serve it warm.

CHEESE CRUMBLE
YIELD: 250 g/20 cups
TIME ESTIMATE: 1J4 hours overall, including 25 minutes ofpreparation and SO minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 2- 3 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF D IF FICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: food processor (optional), sodium citrate, tapioca starch
USED IN: Baked Mac and Cheese (see page 146)
INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 60g 60 mL /1,4 cup 30% CD Preheat the oven to 175 °C/ 350 °F.
Sod ium citrate 2.5g 1.25% ® Combine in a pot, whisk until dissolved, and bring to a simmer.
Gruyere cheese, 200 g 3 cups 100% 0 Add gradually to the simmering liquid . Use an immersion blender
finely grated to blend each addition unti l it is melted and completely smooth.
Tapioca starch 100g 7'a cup 50% 0 Add, one-third at a time . Stir well between additions to keep the mixture
smooth and moist throughout. The mixture turns thick very quickly and
resemb les a dough when it is finished.
® While the cheese mixture is still warm, scoop it onto a si licone mat,
and use a rolling pin to roll it into a thin, even sheet.
® Place the mat on a baking sheet, and bake until the cheese cracker is
comp lete ly dry and golden brown, 45-50 minutes.
0 Coo l the cheese cracker, and break it into pieces.
® Grind the cheese cracker in a food processor to make fine crumbs.
Alternatively, place p ieces in a zip-top bag, and crush them with a
ro lling pin or mallet.
Gruyere cheese, 40 g o/a cup 20% ® Combine with the ground or crushed cheese crumbs.
fine ly grated @ Store refrigerated.
Panko bread crumbs 20g 2Tbsp 10%

TO MAKE AHEAD
Top any au gratin dish with this cheese crumble: it goes well on scalloped For extended storage, keep the ground cheese crumbles from step 8 in
potatoes, green bean casserole, and Apple Betty. You can substitute other an airtight conta iner. Mix them with the grated Gruyere and panko bread
firm or hard cheeses, such as cheddar or Parmesan, for the Gruyere. crumbs just before you use them .

MAC AND CHEESE 149

GRILLED CHEESE SANDWICHES

To make a great grilled cheese sandwich, generously spread butter
on the exterior of the bread, assemble the sandwich, and panfry it
over medium heat until the bread is golden brown and the cheese
is fully melted, 2-3 minutes per side. We use a cast-iron skillet,
but a countertop sandwich grill (or panini press) works well, too.
The bread should not be so thick that it detracts from the filling,
but it also needs to hold the sandwich together; we slice ours
1-l.S em / 3/s-S/s in thick. To make the cheese slice recipes here,
use the instructions for the Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice on the
previous page with the ingredients and quantities given below. You'll
notice that some combinations call for less than half the water of
others; it may seem counterintuitive, but crumbly cheeses tend to
bind better with less water. If you need to finish many sandwiches in
one batch, toast the slices, assemble the sandwiches, and then bake
them in the oven at 190 •c / 375 •p until the cheese melts. These
recipes make four sandwiches.

Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Con fit and Basil
Sourdough bread 8 sli ces Baguette, split in half 4segments
Aged White Cheddar 8 slices and cut into segments
Cheese Slice 10 cm / 4 in long
Honeycrisp app le, 8 slices Goat Cheese Slice 8 slices
thinly sli ced Tomato Confit 120g y, cup
or Grilled Applesauce 120g Y2 cup see page 46
without mustard Pistachio Pes to 80 g 'A cup
see page 42 see page 22
ja lapenos, thinly sliced 30 g 3Tbsp Basil leaves 8-121eaves
Aged White Cheddar Cheese Slice: Goat Cheese Slice:
Water 115g 115 mL /Y2 cup Water 38g 38ml /
Sodium citrate 14 g 2Y, Tbsp
Aged white cheddar 380 g 6 cups Sodium citrate 11 g
cheese, grated Bucheron goat cheese, 380 g 3 cups
rind cut off, crumbl ed

Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with

Ham and Mushrooms Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot Marmalade
Brioch e 8 slices Walnut bread 8 slices
Camembert and Gruyere 8 sl ices Stilton Cheese Slice 8 sli ces
Cheese Slice Shallot and Port Wine 120 g y, cup
Black Forest ham 8 sli ces Marmalade
Button mushrooms, 100 g YJcup Pear, thinly sliced 8 slices
sliced and sauteed Celery, peeled and 40g YJcup
Dijon mustard 40 g 'A cup thinly sliced
Fried eggs 4eggs
Stilton Cheese Slice:
Camembert and Gruyere Cheese Slice: Water 38g 38 ml/ 2Y, Tbsp
Water 115 g 115 mL / Y2 cup Wondra 26g 3Y2Tbsp
Sodium citrate 14 g Sodium citrate 11 g
Camembert cheese, 190g JY, cups Stilton cheese, crumbled 380 g 3 cups
rind cut off
Gruyere cheese, grated 190 g 3y, cups Shallot and Port Wine Marmalade:
Shallots, minced 200 g l'/3 cups
Olive oil 30 g 35 ml / 2 Tbsp
Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Confit
Red port wine 130 g 130 ml / y, cup
Potato bread 8 slices Thyme 1 sprig
Feta Cheese Slice 8 slices
Sweat th e shallots in olive oil. Add the port and thyme, and then simme r
Mediterranean 120 g Y2 cup
Vegetable Confit over medium-low heat until tender and jam-like, about 20 minutes.
see variation on page 44 Season with salt to taste.
Basil 8-12 leaves
Feta Cheese Slice:
Water 38g 38 ml /
2Y, Tbsp
Sodium citrate 11g
Feta cheese, crumbled 380g 3 cups

150 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

HOW TO Pressure-Cook Risotto and Paella--- - - - - - - -- - - - - - - - - - --
1 Saute the aromati c ingredi-
e nts in oi l or butte r. Risotto
and paella rices are typical ly
coo ked in a base of sauteed
aromatics . In the case of
risotto, classic partners are
minced onion, fennel, and
celery; for paella, the usual
aromatic base is sofrito, a
combination of minced bell
pepper, seeded tomato,
and onion.
2 Add the rice to th e saute-
ing aromatics, and toast it
over medium-high heat for
1-2 minutes. The grains should
become sh iny, golden, a nd
slightly tra nslucent.
HOW TO Parcook and Finish Risotto and Paella
1 While sauteing the aromatic
ingredients as described in
step 1 above, freeze a metal
baking sheet (or several, if you
are making a large batch) for
use in step 5.
2 Add the rice, and toast it with
the sauteed aromatics until it
turns shiny, golden, and nearly
translucent.
3 Add liquid, and parcook for
the time indi cated in the table
at right, stirring frequently.
Alternatively, parcook in a
pressure cooker at a gauge
pressure ofl bar / 15 psi, for
the time indicated in the tab le,
and then quickly depressurize
the cooker by running tepid
water ove r the rim.
4 Working quickly, strain the
liquid from the parcooked
grain, and reserve it for use
in step 6.
3 Add a cooking liquid -
typically stock for pae ll a and
a combination of wine and
stock for risotto. You can in-
stead cook the rice in water,
or get creative and try com-
binations of vegetable juices,
fruit juices, and wine or other
kinds of alcohol. Whole
grains require more liquid
than hulled and polished
grains do.
4 Pressure-cook the rice in
liquid at a gauge pressure
of1 bar / 15 psi until it is just
al dente; see the tabl e at
right for cooking times.
Begin timing as soo n as the
cooker reaches full pressure.
5 Transfer the drained rice to
the frozen baking sheet, and
spread it into a thin layer to
cool. Cover, and refrigerate
the rice until you are ready
to serve it.
6 Just before serving, finish
cooking the grain by stirri ng
in the reserved liquid and
simmering it in a pot until it
becomes al dente. You may
need to add a little more
liquid.
7 Fold in any additional flavor-
ings, season, and serve. Th e
additions can be as simple
as a bit of grated cheese
and butter or as comp lex
as vegetab le purees and
braised meats.
RISOTTO AND PAELLA
5 Depressurize the coo ke r
quickly by running tepid 7 Season the ri ce with salt.
Finish risotto dishes with
water over the rim. butter and fres hly grated
cheese, or fo ld in cooked
vegetables, vegetab le purees,
6 Check the rice for done ness.
It shou ld be nearly cooked to or fresh herbs. For paellas,
chefs usually focus on the
a perfect al de nte . You may
need to add more liquid, as broth and garn ishes. In tradi-
directed in the recipes, or tiona I Va lencia-style paella,
to simmer it for1 - 3 minutes for examp le, rabbit and snai ls
more .
are added. Modern versions
ofte n emphas ize various kinds
offresh shellfish.
Cooking Times
If you don't have a pressure cooker, you can cook the risotto, paella, or
other grain stew the traditional way. Use the times in the table below and
the flavor ideas on pages 154-155 as guidelines . Batches that are larger
than those in our recipes will take longer to cook.
Cook on the
Pressure-cook stove top
(min) (min)
bomba rice 7 22
forbidden rice 12 25
risotto rices (Arborio, 6 18-20
Vialone Nano, carnaroli)
short-grain Japanese rice 4 13- 15
farro 15 22-25
pearl barley 20 28-30
quinoa
steel-cut oats, rinsed
4
7
15-1B
12-15
Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 5
ParcookingTimes
You ca n parcook rice and grains, and then refrigerate them for up to
3 days before finishing and serving. Use the times in the table below
for parcooking in a pressure cooker or on the stove stop. When you
a re ready to finish the dish, simmer it as described in step 6 above for
2-5 minutes as a rule of thumb.
In a pressure
cooker
(min)
On the stove top
(min)
bomba rice 4 8
forbidden rice 7 17
risotto rices (Arborio, 3 6
Vial one Nano, carnaroli)
2y,
short-grain Japanese rice 4
farro 10 20-22
pearl barley 12 25
quinoa 2 7
steel-cut oats, rinsed 5 7
Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 5
151
VEGETABLE RISOTTO

YIELD: Jour servings (500 g/ 2 cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 40 minutes overall, including 30 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately; parcooked rice and cooking liquid keep for up to 3 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: juicer

For traditional risotto, chefs insist that the rice requires constant
stirring and fussing until the very last minute. We agree that good
risotto should be al dente and is best served immediately, but we
prefer a quicker method that requires much less of the cook's atten-
tion: parcook the grains, and then chill them on a frozen baking
sheet, which stops the cooking without rinsing away the valuable
starches. Finishing, which can be done days later, then takes just
a few minutes before serving.
The results are just as good as the old-fashioned method. Good
stock, fresh vegetable juices, and aged Gouda cheese give this version
a bold vegetable flavor. Risotto is a wonderful base for a variety of
flavors; see pages 154-155 for suggestions.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Shallots, minced 40g 6 Tbsp 20% CD Place a baking sheet in the freezer for at least 30 minutes.
Neutral frying oil 20 g 20 mL /1'/2 Tbsp 10% 0 Sweat the sha llots in o il in a medium pot until tender and translucent,
see page viii about 2 minutes.
Carnaroli rice (or other 200g 1 cup 100% ® Stir into the shal lot mixture, and cook until shiny and slightly toasted,
short-grain rice for risotto, about 2 minutes.
such as Arborio or
Vialone Nano)
Vegetable stock 180 g 180 mL / 3,4 cup 90% @ Stir into the rice mixture, and simm er for 6 minutes to parcook the rice.
see page 13
® Drain, reserving the cooking liquid.
Fresh carrot juice 110g 110 mL/Y2 cup 55% ® Spread the rice in a single layer on the frozen baking sheet to cool.
from 2-3 carrots
Fresh celery juice
0 When you are ready to comp lete the risotto, combine the coo led rice
llOg 110 mL/ Y2 cup 55% a nd cooking liquid in a pot, and simmer the mixture over medium -high
(or additional stock) from 3-4 stalks
heat, stirring constantly, until the liquid has thickened and the rice is
Dry vermouth or 50 g 50 mL /3Y, Tbsp 25% al dente, 3- 5 minutes.
white wine
Aged Gouda cheese, 100g 1'/J cups 50% ® Stir into the warm risotto.
finely grated
Unsalted butter, cubed 12g 1 Tbsp 6%
Salt to taste ® Season the risotto, and serve it immed iately.

1 Place a baking sheet in the freezer, and allow it to ch ill for at least
30 minutes. 6 Quickly spread the rice in a single layer on the frozen baking sheet to
stop the cooking. You can speed the chilling process by putting the
baking sheet back in the freezer for 5 minutes.

2 Place the shallots and oil together in a medium pot, and sweat until the
shallots are tender and translucent but not brown, about 2 minutes.
7 When you are ready to finish the cooking, combine the cooled rice a nd
cook ing li quid, and simmer over medium-high heat, stirring constantly,
until the liquid has thickened and the rice is al dente, 3-5 minutes. Add
3 Stir the rice into the shallot mixture, and cook until the rice turns sh iny
and slightly toasted, about 2 minutes . liquid as needed.

4 Stir the vegetab le stock, vegetab le juices, and vermouth or wine into
the rice mixture, and simmer it for 6 minutes. This parcooks the gra ins,
8 Stir the grated cheese and butter into the warm risotto.

but they shou ld remain firm on the insid e.

9 Season the risotto with salt to taste, and serve it immediately.

5 Drain the rice, reserving the cooking liquid.

VARIATION: Pressure-Cooked Risotto

To make risotto even fa ster than this recipe does, cook it in a pressure
cooker. Follow steps 1- 6 in the recipe for Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco
(see the next page), but use the ingredients and quantities given for the
Vegetable Risotto recipe. Then continue at step 8.

152 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

PRESSURE-COOKED PAELLA DEL BOSCO

YIELD : jour servings (400 g/ 2 cups, excluding snails)

TIME ESTIMATE: 25 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately; cooked rice keeps for up to 3 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFF ICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker, bomba rice, piment6n dulce, piquillo peppers, Brown Chicken Stock (see variation
on page 9), So us Vide Braised Snails (optional, see page 135)

Paella has gained a reputation as a dish for special occasions because
it is so time-consuming to make. But it doesn't have to be: with little
more than 25 minutes of total labor, you can use this recipe to make
incredibly flavorful and creamy Valencia-style paella. We chose to
add snails because they are historically an original garnish for paella.
Cooked chicken, shrimp, crabmeat, or duck breast can all be folded
into the rice instead of, or along with, the snails. For an elegant
touch, finely shave some fresh porcini mushrooms, when they are
in season, over the finished dish.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

O live oil 40g 45 mL/3 Tbsp 27% CD Sweat the vegetab les in oi l in the base of a pressure cooker over med ium
Piquillo peppers 50g y, cup 33% heat until tender and translucent, about 3 minutes.
(store-bought), minced
Fennel, minced 25g Y.. cup 17%
Sweet onion, min ced 25g 3Tbsp 17%
Carrot, minced 20g 2Tbsp 13%
Garli c, minced 7.5g 1 Tbsp 5%
Bomba rice (or other 150g :Y., cup 100% 0 Stir into the vegetable mixture, and cook until the rice turns shiny a nd
short-grain paella rice) translucent, about 2 minutes.
Brown Chicken Stock 300 g 300 mL/ 1Y.. cups 200% ® Stir into the rice mi xture.
see variation on page 9 0 Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 7 minutes. Start
Dry sherry 70g 70 mL/Y' cup 47% timing when full pressure is reached.
® Depressurize the cooker.
® Check the rice for tenderness. It should be al dente . If necessary, simmer
uncovered for a minute or two longer.
Pime nt6n du lce (smoked, 7g 1 Tbsp 5% 0 Stir into the rice, and let rest for1 minute.
sweet paprika)
Thyme leaves 2g 1 Tbsp 1%
Saffron threads 5 threads
(optional)
Salt to taste ® Season.
Sous Vide Braised Snai ls 200g 24 snai ls 133% ® Fold into the paella, and serve it immediately.
(optional), cut in half
and warmed
see page 135
Lemon zest, fine ly grated to taste
Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 5

1 Sweat the vegetables in olive oil in the base of a pressure cooker over
medium heat until they become tender and translucent but not brown, 6 Check the rice for doneness. The grains shou ld be al dente: firm to the
bite but not hard or crunchy. If the rice is not quite done, simm er it for
about 3 minutes. 1-2 minutes more, uncovered. Stir it constantly.

2 Stir the rice into the vegetab le mixture, and cook until the rice turns
shiny and slightly translucent, about 2 minutes. 7 Stir the piment6n, thyme, and saffron into the rice. Let the paella rest
for1 minute so that the flavors infuse and the starch sl ightly coo ls and
thickens .

3 Stir the chicke n stock and sherry into the rice mixture.

8 Season the paella with sa lt to taste.

4 Pressure-cook the mixture at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for

7 minutes. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.
9 Fold the snails a nd le mo n zest into the paella. Garnish with additional
Larger amo unts of rice will need more time. snai ls, and serve it immediately.

5 Run tepid water over the rim of the cooke r to depressurize it quickly. To make ahead, see the instructions on page 326 in the main volume.

RISOTTO AND PAELLA 1 53

RISOTTO AND PAELLA VARIATIONS

Each of the variations below includes complete cooking instruc-
tions, but follows the general method for making Pressure-Cooked
Paella del Bosco on the previous page. In each case, use a gauge
pressure of 1 bar / 15 psi, start timing as soon as full pressure has
been reached, and depressurize the cooker quickly by running
tepid water over the rim before opening it; see the safety tips for
pressure-cooking on page 5. If the rice or grain is not quite done
after pressure-cooking, simmer it for 1-2 minutes more. To make
a dish having a drier consistency, simmer the mixture after pressure-
cooking; for a soupy, creamier dish, add more liquid. If parcooking
the grain, as described in the recipe on page 152, you may need to
increase the quantity of liquid by up to 25% to allow for increased
evaporation.
You can substitute finely minced sweet onions for the shallots in
these recipes, and use additional butter or olive oil to add richness.

Arborio Rice with Caramelized Squash and Saffron Forbidden Rice with Squid Ink and So us Vide Clams
Shallots, minced 20 g 2Tbsp Shallots, minced 30 g \4 cup
Neutral frying oil 20 g 20 ml / lY2 Tbsp Neutral frying oil 20g 20 mL / lY2 Tbsp
Arborio or similar short-grain 150g :Y.. cup Forbidden rice 150 g :Y.. cup
risotto rice
Pressure-Cooked 150g 150 ml /o/a cup
Fresh ca rrot juice 200g 200 ml /7's cup Crustacean Stock
Chardonnay or other 100 g 100 ml / 3/s cup see page 12
fruity white wine Fino sherry 75g 75 ml / STbsp
Butternut squash puree lOOg :Ys cup Squid ink
see variation on page 76
7.6g JY, tsp
Clam meat, cooked sous vide* 12 clams
Saffron 4-5 threads see page128
Grana Pad a no cheese, grated 90 g 1:Y.. cups Extra-virgin olive oil so g 55 ml /\4 cup
Salt to taste Salt to taste
Marcona almonds as needed Meyer lemon zest, grated as needed
Saute the sha ll ots in oil over medium heat in the base of a pressure cooker Saute the sha ll ots in oil over medium heat in the base of a pressure cooker
until translucent, about 3 minutes. Stir in the rice, and cook for1 minute until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add th e rice, and cook over medium
more. Add the carrot juice and Chardonnay, and pressure-cook for heat for1 minute more. Stir in the crustacean stock, sherry, and squid ink,
6 minutes. Stir in the squash puree, saffron threads, and cheese. Season and pressure-cook for 12 minutes. While the rice is cooking, remove the
with sa lt, and garn ish with a fine shavi ng of Microplaned almonds. bellies from the clams, and chop the remaining pieces. Fold the chopped
clams and olive oi l into the cooked rice. Season with sa lt, and garnish with
the clam bellies and grated lemon zest.
*Safety tips for lightly cookedfood: see page ix

Steel-Cut Oats with So us Vide Braised Snails Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine
Steel-cut oats 150 g 7's cup Wild mushrooms (ma itake, 140 g PA cups
Chicken stock 230 g 230 ml / 1 cup oyster, shiitake), minced
see page 9 Shallots, minced y, cup
40g
Pas tis or ouzo 50 g 65 ml /\4 cup Unsalted butter 3Sg 3 Tbsp
Pressu re-Cooked Garlic 60g /s cup
3
Neutral frying oil 20 g 20 mL / lY2 Tbsp
Con fit, sieved see page vi ii
see page44
Pearl barley 150 g :Y.. cup
Unsalted butter 50 g \4 cup Mushroom Stock, enhanced 180g 180 ml /:Y.. cup
Parmigiano-Reggiano 40g y, cup with crumbled dry porcinis
So us Vide Braised Snails 6Sg about 8 snai ls see pagelS
see page 135 Red wine (Syrah) 100 g 100 ml /:Ys cup
Salt to taste Gruyere cheese, grated 65g y, cup
Green apple, diced 2Sg \4 cup Salt to taste
Italian parsley, minced 8g 2Y' Tbsp Black pepper to taste
Combine the oats with the chi cken stock and past is or ouzo in a pressure Saute the wild mushrooms and sha llots in the butter and oil over medium
cooker, and pressure-cook for 7 minutes. Stir in the garl ic con fit, butter, heat in the base of a pressure cooker until trans lucent, about 3 minutes .
and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Fold in the snails gently. Season with salt, and Stir in the barley, and cook for1 minute more. Add the mushroom stock
garnis h with the app le and Itali an parsley. Garn ish with addition al snail s and wine, and pressure-cook for 20 minutes. Stir in the grated cheese
and grated cheese, if desired. until melted. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with additiona l cheese
and sauteed mushrooms, if desired.

154 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

Quinoa with Pistachio Pesto and Asparagus Farro with Chicken, Artichokes, and Black Olives
Quinoa, rinsed and drained 150 g ?'a cup Shallots, minced 30 g Y., cup
Neutral frying o il 10 g 10 ml / 2 tsp Neutral frying oil 28g 30 ml / 2 Tbsp
see page viii see page viii
Vegetable stock 275g 275 ml / 1Ye cups Farro 150 g :Y.. cup
see page 13 Vegetable stock 200 g 200 ml /?'• cup
Dry vermouth 75g 75 ml / 5 Tbsp see page 13
Asparagus, very thinly sli ced 70g 1 cup Dry white wine 80 g 80mL/Y3 cup
Pistachio Pesta 200 g 3)! cup So us Vide Chicken, diced 120g :Y.. cup
see page22 see page lOB
Unsalted butter, cubed 20 g 2Tbsp Microwave-cooked lOOg 2-3 hearts
Salt to taste artichoke hearts, sliced
see table on page 162
Ricotta salata, finely grated 40g :Y.. cup
Olive oil 40 g 45 ml/3 Tbsp
Saute the quinoa for1 minute in o il over medium heat in the base of a pres- Black olives, slivered 18 g 2Tbsp
sure cooker. Add the vegetable stock a nd vermouth, and pressure-cook
Salt to taste
for 4 minutes. Stir in the sl iced asparagus, pistachio pes to, and butter, and
then season with salt. Garnish with grated ricotta sa lata and some sauteed Saute the shal lots in o il over medium heat in the base of a pressure
asparagus tips. cooker until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the farro, and cook for
1 minute more. Stir in the vegetable stock and wine, and pressure-cook
for 15 minutes. Fold in the ch icken, artichoke hearts, o live o il, and ol ives.
Season with salt.

Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin and Cocoa Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli-Gruyere Puree
Shallots, minced 35g Y., cup Shallots, minced 50 g 6 Tbsp
Neutral frying oil 20g 20 ml/ 1Y2 Tbsp Neutral frying oil 40g 45 ml/ 3 Tbsp
see page vii i see page vi ii
Arborio or similar short-grain 150 g 3)! cup Spanish chorizo, casing 150 g :Y.. cup
risotto rice removed
Sous Vide Fish Stock 200g 200 ml /?'a cup Bomba or similar short-grain 150 g :Y.. cup
see pagell paella rice
Dry sake 60 g 60 ml / Y., cup Water 230 g 230 ml / 1 cup
Freshly squeezed grapefruit 40g 40 mL / Y.. cup Wheat beer 80 g 80 ml / Y3 cup
juice Broccoli-Gruyere Puree 150 g :Y.. cup
Sea urchin, pressed through 30 g 3Tbsp see variation on page 76
a sieve* Extra-virgin olive oil 70 g 80 mL /Y3 cup
Grapefruit zest, finely grated 4g 1 Tbsp Salt to taste
Cocoa powder as needed Garlic, thinly sliced and fried as needed
Tarragon leaves as needed until crisp
Saute the shallots in o il over medium heat in the base of a pressure cooker Saute the shallots in oi l over medium heat in the base of a pressure
until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the rice, and cook over medium cooker until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the chorizo and rice,
heat for1 minute more. Add the fish stock, sake, and grapefruit juice, and and cook over medium heatfor1 minute more . Stir in the water and
pressure-cook for 6 minutes. Stir in the sea urchin and grapefruit zest. beer, and pressure-cook for 7 minutes. Stir in the broccoli puree and
Season with salt, and garnish with tarragon leaves, a dusting of cocoa extra-virgin olive oil. Season with salt, and garnish with fried garli c,
powder, and sea urchin tongue. and a few blanched broccoli florets.
*Safety tips for lightly cookedfood: see page ix

RISOTTO AND PAEllA 1 55

 PRESSURE-COOKED POLENTA

YIELD: jour servings (450 g/ 2 cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 20 minutes overall, including 8 minutes ofpreparation and 12 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF D IFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker, two 500 mL/ 16 oz canning jars, ricotta salata or Cotija cheese
GOES WELL WITH: Strawberry Marinara (see page 33)

The traditional version of polenta can take more than an hour to We cook the polenta in corn stock for an incredibly intense corn
cook; a pressure cooker greatly reduces the time and effort required. taste.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Clarified, unsalted butter 15g 15 mL / 1 Tbsp 15% @ Heat in a pan over low heat.
or neutral-tasting oil
see page 37
Dry polenta (ground 100 g 5/a cup 100% 0 Add to the pan, and toast, stirring constantly, unti l golden brown, about
cornmeal, not instant) 4 minutes.
Toasted Corn Stock, 300g 300 mL/ 1\4 cups 300% ® Divide the toasted cornmeal evenly into two 500 mL / 16 oz canning jars.
vegetable stock,
0 Stir half of the corn stock or water into each jar. Tighten the lids fully, and
meat stock, or water
then unscrew one-quarter turn.
see page 14
® Place a metal rack or trivet on the base of a pressure cooker, add
2.5 cm / 1 in of water, and place the filled jars on the trivet.
® Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for12 minutes. Start
timing when fu ll pressure is reached.
0 Depressurize the cooker, and let the jars cool slightly before opening.
® Spoon the cooked polenta into a small pot.
Mascarpone or 20g 4tsp 20% ® Stir into the cooked polenta, over low heat, until fully incorporated.
cream cheese
Ricotta salata or 15g 3Tbsp 15%
Cotija cheese,
finely grated
Basil, julienned 1g 31eaves 1% @ Season the polenta, and garnish it with basil and grated cheese. It goes
Ricotta salata as needed well with marinara sauce (see pages 32 and 33).
Salt to taste
Safety tips far pressure-cooking: see page 5

1 Heat the clarified butter or oil in a pan over low heat. Using clarified
butter avo ids any specks of browned butter in the finished po lenta. 6 Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 12 minutes.
Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.

2 Add the cornmeal to the pan, and toast it, stirring constantly, until it
turns golden brown, about 4 minutes. This adds a nice, nutty flavor 7 Depressurize the cooker quickly by running tepid water over the rim.
Let the jars coo l slightly before opening them. This helps to avoid
to the polenta. sp lattering.

3 Divide the cornmeal evenly into two 500 mL/ 16 oz canning jars.
8 Spoon the cooked polenta into a small pot.

4 Stir half(150 g/ 150 mL /o/a cup) ofthe corn stock or water into each jar.
Tighten the lids ful ly, and then unscrew them one-quarter turn so that 9 Stir the mascarpone and the ricotta salata into the polenta over low
heat until the cheeses are fu lly incorporated . For special dinners,
the jars don't explode . we add even more mascarpone for a richer mouthfeel.

5 Place a metal rack or trivet on the base of the pressure cooker, pour in
water to a depth of2 .5 cm / 1 in, and then place the filled jars on
1Q Season the po lenta, and garnish it with marinara sauce (see
page 32), grated ricotta sa lata, and jul ienned basil.
the trivet.

TO MAKE AHEAD VAR IATION: Corn juice Grits

After step 7, you can refrigerate the polenta until you are ready to use it. For an even more intense corn flavor, substitute corn juice for the corn
To reheat the polenta, warm it in a saucepan over low heat, and stir in a stock. juice 1.5 kg / 10 cups offresh or frozen corn kernels, and allow
few additional tablespoons of water or cream. the juice to sit und isturbed until the natura l starch settles to the bottom,
about 2 hours. Use the juice in the recipe; discard the starch .

15 6 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

SHRIMP AND GRITS

YIELD: jour servings (950 g/ 4 cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 50 minutes overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 20 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup, pressure cookerj two 500 mL/ 16 oz canning jars, Pressure-Cooked Crustacean
Stock (see page 12), Redeye Gravy (see page 19)

You can make grits from course-ground cornmeal of nearly any the cost of a much blander flavor. Instead, use a pressure cooker
variety: white, yellow, or blue. The kind of corn and size of the grind and enjoy the real dish, quickly and without constant stirring. For a
affect the cooking time and the amount of water needed, however. slightly more traditional take, top a bowl of grits with prawns, either
Avoid instant grits, which offer shorter cooking times but only at seared or poached sous vide (see the table on page 128).

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Eggs 41arge CD Preheat a water bath to 65 •c / 149 •F.
0 Cook the eggs in their shells sous vide for45 minutes.
Pressure-Cooked 500 g 500 mL/ 2 cups 400% ® Stir well to combine, and then d ivide evenly between two 500 mL / 16 oz
Crustacean Stock canning jars. Tighten the lids fu lly, and then unscrew one-quarter turn.
(shrimp) 0 Place a rack ortrivet in the base of a pressure cooker, add 2.5 cm / 1 in
see page 12
of water, and place the fil led jars on the trivet.
Corn grits (coarse-ground 125g '14 cup 100% ® Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 20 minutes. Start
cornmeal)
timing when full pressure is reached.
® Depressurize the cooker quickly by running tepid water over the rim.
Let the jar contents cool slightly before opening to avoid splattering.
0 Spoon the cooked grits into a small pot, and stir them well.
Unsalted butter, cubed 50g 3Tbsp 40% ® Stir into the grits over low heat.
Salt to taste ® Season the grits, and divide them evenly into serving bowls.
@ Top each bowl with a peeled, soft-cooked egg.
Red eye Gravy, warm 80 g y, cup 64% @ Pour over the grits and eggs, and serve immediate ly.
see page 19
Safety tipsfar pressure-cooking: see page 5

1 Preheat a water bath to 65 •c / 149 • f.

5 Pressure-cook the grits at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for
20 minutes. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.
The grits cook slightly faster, in about 15 minutes, when vacuum
2 Cook the eggs so us vide in the ir shells for 45 minutes. This yie lds
poached eggs with a delicate, creamy texture . You can proceed sea led in a bag rather than placed in canning jars.
with steps 3-9 while the eggs cook.

6 Depressurize the cooker quick ly by running tepid water over the rim.
Allow the jar contents to coo l sl ightly before opening them so that
3 Stir the crustacean stock and grits to combine them. Divide the mixture
evenly between two 500 mL / 16 oz canning jars. Tighten the lids ful ly, they don't splatter.
and then unscrew them one-quarter turn; this prevents them from ex-
ploding. Alternatively, freeze the stock, and then vacuum seal it with
the grits in a bag rated fort he higher temperature of a pressure cooker.
7 Spoon the cooked grits into a small pot, and stir them well.

8 Stir the butter into the grits over low heat.

4 Place a metal rack or trivet in the base of a pressure cooker, add water
to a depth of2 .5 cm / 1 in, and then place the filled jars on the trivet.
9 Season the grits with salt. Divide them evenly into four serving bowls.

1Q Top each bowl of grits with a peeled, soft-cooked egg.

VARIATION: Cheese Grits

11 Pour warm gravy over the eggs and grits, and serve them
immediately.
Substitute mi lk, water, chicken stock, or vegetable stock for the crustacean
stock . At step 8, stir in 100 g/Y2 cup each of heavy cream and grated
cheddar cheese when you add the butter. Top with sliced scallions and
green chilies instead of gravy.

CORNMEAL 157
PRESSURE-COOK ED FRESH -CORN TAMALES
YIELD: six to 10 servings (1.5 kg/ about 20 tamales)
TIME ESTIMATE: 30 hours overall, including 1 hour ofpreparation and 20 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: stand mixer, food processor, pressure cooker, masa harina, dried corn husks
GOES WELL WITH: Pressure-Cooked Carnitas (see page 94), Salsa Verde (see page 31)

Tamales, made of steamed corn batter, are the Latin American ver-
sion of a set cornmeal mush popular in the American South or the
set polenta popular in Italy. These tamales are intensely flavored
of corn. They are a marvelous side dish. If you prefer more of an
entree, fill them with shredded meat such as carnitas (see page 94),
short ribs (see variation on page 95), or adobo (see page 98). Or
experiment with nontraditional fillings: vegetables or grated Cotija,
ricotta, or white cheddar cheese. Instead oflard, substitute rendered
pork, chicken, or bacon fat (see page 41) to add considerably more
flavor. Garnish with pickled chilies and Mexican salsa, either store-
bought or Salsa Verde (see page 31).

INGREDIENT WE IG HT VOLUME SCA LI NG PROCEDURE

Dried corn husks 20 husks 0 Soak in warm water unti l the husks are pliab le, at least 30 minutes .
Shake them dry.
Lard or unsalted butter 225g 1 cup 50% 0 Whip in a stand mixer, scraping the sides often, until light and airy,
about 5 minutes.
Masa harina (Maseca 450 g 3y, cups 100% ® Gradually add to the mixer, alternating between the two ingredients,
brand) until fu lly blended to make masa batter.
Toasted Corn Stock 300g 300 mL/ 11,4 cups 67%
or water, lukewarm
see page 14
Fresh corn kernels, 52Sg 3y, cups / 4 cobs 117% 0 Combine in a food processor, and blend to make corn puree.
cut from the cob 0 Fo ld the corn puree and masa batter together to make the tamale batter.
Unsalted butter, melted 22g 25 mL / 2Tbsp 4.9% 0 Place a dollop of tama le batter, about 70 g/ 5 Tbsp, in each corn husk,
Sour cream, creme 22g lY2 Tbsp 4.9% and wrap firm ly.
fraiche, or crema 0 Arrange the tamales, seam-side down, on a metal rack or trivet in a
Sugar 15g 1 Tbsp 3.3% pressure cooker, and then add 2.5 cm / 1 in of water.
Salt 14g 1 Tbsp 3.1 % ® Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 20 minutes. Start
timing when full pressure is reached.
® Depressurize the cooker.
@ Allow the tamales to cool unti l set, about 2 hours.
@ Steam over boi ling water for15 -20 minutes to reheat, and serve hot.
Safety tipsf ar pressure-cooking: see page 5

VAR IATI ON: Corn j u ice Ta m a les
For a more intense corn flavor, substitute Corn Juice (see variation on
page 156) for the water or corn stock in the tamale batter.
W HI LE YOU ' RE AT IT: H ush Pupp ies
Fo llow steps 2-5 above to make tamale batter. Deep-fry small (lS g / 1 Tbsp)
ba lls of the tamale batter in 175 ' C/ 350 ' F neutral frying oil (see page vii i)
until they turn brown and crispy, 3- 4 minutes . You might try a southern
Ohio trick we learned from the family of one of our research chefs: sub-
stitute lemon-lime soda for one quarter of the stock or water. Another
alternative we love is to lighten the batter by whipping 108 g /Y2 cup of
egg whites (from about3 eggs), and then stirring them in afte r step 5. Yet
anothe r option is to grind freeze-dried corn to a powder, and then ro ll
the batter in it to yield an extreme ly crunchy crust and an extra burst
of corn flavor. For deep-frying safety tips, see page 4.

158 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

1 Soak the dried corn husks in warm water until they become pliable,
at least 30 minutes. Shake them dry.

2 Whip th e lard or butter in a stand mixer, scraping the sides of the bowl
frequently, unti l it turns light and airy.

3 Add the masa harina and corn stock or water to the mixer gradually,
alternating additions of the two ingredients. Mix until fully blended to
make th e masa batte r. When the batter is properly whipped, a dollop
will float in a glass of water.

4 Combine the fresh corn kernels, melted butter, sour cream, sugar, and
salt in a food processor, and blend until evenly combined into a corn
puree . The puree doesn't have to be perfectly smooth; the chopped
corn kernels lend a nice texture to the tamales.

5 Fold the corn puree into the masa batter to ma ke the tamale batter.

6 Place a dollop (about 70 g/ 5 Tbsp) of the tama le batter in each corn

husk, and wrap each one firm ly. One side of each corn husk naturally
forms a cup shape. Place the batter in this cup, use the natural curl of
the co rn husk to enclose the batter, and then fold the top of the husk
down to seal the package. Tie it closed with a narrow strip of corn husk
or a piece of st ring, if necessary.

7 Stack the tamales, seam-side down, on a trivet or rack in a pressure

cooker. Pour in water to a depth of2.5 cm / 1 in.

8 Pressure-cook the tamales at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for

20 minutes. Start timing as soon as fu ll pressure has been reached.

9 Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.

1Q Cool the tamales completely, about 2 hours, to give the starches

time to gel.

11 Reheat the tamales by steaming them over boiling water for

15-20 minutes. Alternative ly, microwave them, a few at a time,
on full powerfor 1-2 minutes. Serve them hot.

CORNMEAl 159
MICROWAVED EGGPLANT PARMESAN

YIELD: four servings (850 g)

TIME ESTIMATE: 45 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for up to 3 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE
Panko bread crumbs 50 g Yo cup 15% @ Preheat the oven to 175 ' C/ 350 ' F.
Parmigiano-Reggiano, 50 g ~c up 15% 0 Toss together, spread eve nly on a baking sheet, and toast until the
grated cheese and bread crumbs turn golde n, about 10 minutes. Reserve the
crumbs for use in step 12.

Italian eggp la nt, 330g 12 slices 100% ® Arrange the eggp lant slices in a si ngle layer on a microwave-safe plate
peeled and sliced (from 1 eggplant) lined with paper towels, sprinkle with the salt, and cover with add itiona l
6 mm /Y.. in thick paper towels.
Salt 2g V2 tSp 0.6% @ Microwave at 1,100 W for 3 minutes. Work in batches if necessary.
Olive oil 50g 55 mL / Y.. cup 15% ® Brush the eggplant sli ces with olive oil on both sides, place them on
a clean plate, and seal them with microwave-safe plastic wrap.
® Microwave at 1,100 W until fully tender, about 4 minutes.
Marinara sauce 400g To/a cups 121% 0 Spread a generous spoonful of marinara sauce across the bottom of
see page 32 a microwave-safe dish that is 12.7 cm / 5 in sq uare.
Full-fat ricotta c heese 150 g 'I• cup 45% ® Lay four slices of the cooked eggpla nt over the sauce .
Fresh mozzarella, 150 g 1 cup 45% ® Top the eggp lant with one third of the basil and cheeses. Lightly salt
thinly s li ced if desired.
Basil leaves, torn lOg \12 cup 3% @ Top with a noth er ge ne rous spoonful of marinara sauce.
Salt to taste @ Repeat steps 8 -10 twice more, an d top with remaining marinara sauce.
@ Sprinkle the toasted bread and cheese crumbs over the assemb led dish.
@ Microwave at 1,100 W until hot in the center and bubbly on the sid es,
5- 6 minutes. Serve immediately.

1 Preheat the oven to 175 ' C/ 350 ' F.

7 Spread a generous spoonful of marinara sauce even ly across the
bottom of a microwave-safe dish that is 12.7 cm / 5 in square and
5 cm / 2 in deep.
2 Toss the bread crumbs and cheese together, spread them on a baking
sheet, and toast them until they turn golden, aboutlO minutes. Set the
cheesy bread crumbs aside for use in step 12.
8 Arrange four slices of cooked eggp lant on the sauce in a single layer.

3 Arrange the slices of eggp lant in a si ngle laye r on a microwave-safe

plate lined with paper towels. Sprinkle them with the salt, and then 9 Top the eggp lant with one third of the ricotta, sliced mozzarella, and
basil. Add a little salt to taste, but it may already be quite salty. You can
cover them with additional paper towels. use scissors to sn ip the basil.

4 Microwave the eggplant at 1,100 W for3 minutes; add more time if your
oven is less powe rful than this. The paper towels absorb steam, so the 10 Spread another generous spoonful of marinara sauce over the top.

eggp lant doesn't get soggy. Work in batches if necessary; do not stack
slices on top of one another. 11 Repeat steps 8-10 two more times to build three layers. Spread any
extra marinara sauce over the top.

5 Brush the cooked slices with olive oil on both sides, place them on
a clean microwave-safe plate, and seal them tightly with plastic wrap, 12 Sprinkle the cheesy bread crumbs generously on top.

which traps the steam produced during cook ing. Use only plastic
wrap specifically rated for microwaving.
13 Microwave again at 1,100 W until the food is hot in the center and
bubbly on the sides, 5-6 minutes. The sauce may bubble over, so it's
a good idea to place a plate underneath the dish .
6 Microwave the sli ces at1,100 W until they are tender all the way
through, about 4 minutes. If they are still slightly rubbery, cook
for up to 2 minutes more.

160 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

SICHUAN BOK CHOY

YIELD: jour servings (350 g/jour heads ojbok choy)

TIME ESTIMATE: 10 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: black bean and chili paste, Shaoxing wine, Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil (see page 36)

This is such a practical and fast way to cook vegetables perfectly. samba/ ulek, a salt-cured chili sauce (use a 2:1 ratio by weight). Alter-
Sealing the produce in a plastic bag captures steam to help the natively, use our Korean Wing Sauce (see page 116) or 100 g of our
microwave do the cooking. If you can't find black bean and chili Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce with some extra minced lemon-
paste, replace it with a combination of garlic black bean sauce and grass (see page 31) to obtain a different set of flavors.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Hoisin sauce 20g 20 mL / 4tsp 7% CD Combine in a pot, and bring to a simmer.
(Lee Kum Kee brand) 0 Set as id e to coo l sl ightly.
Fermented black 15g 1 Tbsp 5%
bean and chi li paste
(Lee Kum Kee brand)
Shaoxingwine Bg 9 ml/2 tsp 2.6%
Soy sauce 5g 4 mL / 1"• tsp 1.7%
Toasted-sesame oil 1g 1 mL/ Y., tsp 0.3%
Baby bok choy, cleaned 300 g 4 medium heads 100% ® Place in a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag,
and halved and seal it.
Water 50 g 50 mL / Y., cup 17% 0 Microwave it at1,100 W for 2 minutes, and then let it rest for 2 minutes
in the bag.
® Remove the bok choy from the bag, shake off any excess water, and
arrange it on plates.
Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil 10 g 10 mL/ 2\4 tsp 3.3% ® Season the bok choy with the spicy sauce, chili oi l, and salt. Serve it hot.
see page36
Salt to taste

Combine the hoisin sauce, black bean and ch ili paste, wine, soy sauce,
1 and sesame oil in a pot, and bring the mixture to a simmer.

2 Remove the sauce from the heat, and allow it to coo l sl ightly.

Place the cleaned bok choy halves a nd the water in a zip-top bag.
3 Remove as much air as possible from the bag, and sea l it. Alternatively,
arrange the bok choy on a microwave-safe plate, add water, and then
tightly cover the plate with microwave-safe plastic wrap.

4 Microwave the bok choy at 1,100 W for 2 minutes (or at full powerfor a
bit longer, if your oven is less powerful than this), and then let it rest for
2 minutes in the bag or plastic wrap. If you're using a microwave-safe
dish, cooking may take an extra minute. Microwave ovens vary widely
in their power output, so check the power of yours before cooking,
and adjust the power level or cooking time accordingly.

5 Remove the bok choy from the bag, shake off any excess water from it,
and arrange it on plates.

6 Season the bok choywith the spicy sauce, chili oi l, and salt. Serve
it hot.

DISHES FOR THE MICROWAVE 161

VARIATIONS
Bok Choy Medley Autumn Flavors Bok Choy
Baby bok choy, halved 300g 4 medium heads Baby bok choy, halved 300 g 4 medium heads
Pressure-Cooked Barley, warmed 60 g 4 Tbsp Broccoli-Gruyere Puree 60 g y., cup
see page 78 see variation on page 76
lb erico ham, sli ced paper thin 40 g 8 pieces Pickled Hon eycrisp apple, 24g 3Tbsp
Cauliflower florets 32g 8florets finely diced
see page 48
Romanesco cauliflower florets 32g 8florets
Comte cheese, grated 8g 4tsp
Brussels sprout leaves 12 g 12-16 leaves
Hazelnut oil 4g 4 ml/ 1 tsp
Spinach Butter, warm 12g 1Tbsp
see variation on page 39 Follow steps 3-5 on the previous page to cook the bok choy. Spoon the
Meyer lemon zest, grated 1g ltsp warm broccoli puree onto the plate, and garnish with the pickled apple.
Sprinkle the grated cheese and hazelnut oil over the top.
Deep-fry both kinds of cau liflower florets in 175 "C/ 350 "F neutral frying
oil until golden, aboutlO minutes. Blanch the Brussels sprout leaves for
60 seconds in boiling water, and then immediately plunge them into an Microwaved Potato Salad
ice-water bath. Follow steps 3- 5 on the previous page to cook the bok Small fingerling potatoes 400g 3cups
choy. Take apart the cooked bok choy leaves. Arrange the bok choy leaves, Water 15g 1 Tbsp
ham, barley, and vegetab les artfull y on plates. Drizzle the spinach butter Red onion, minced 55g y, cup
over the top, garnish with the lemon zest, and season with salt. Bacon Mayonnaise SSg Y., cup
see variation on page 25

Dijon mustard 15g 1\h Tbsp

Salt to taste
Place the potatoes and water in a zip-top bag, and microwave at1,100
watts until tender, abo ut 4 minutes. Allow to coo l, and sl ice into coins
1 in thick. Combine with the onion, mayonnaise, and mustard . Season
with sa lt to taste. Garnish with Pressure-Cooked Pickled Mustard Seeds
(see page 43) and crispy bacon bits.

Best Bets for Cooking Vegetables in the Microwave Oven

All of the recipes in this chapter were tested by usi ng a 1,100 watt micro- cut them, as well as on th eir density and water co ntent. Drier vegetables
wave oven at full power, unless indi cated otherwise. The time required to cook more evenly if you seal the vegetables in a bag or under microwave-
cook vegetables in a microwave depends on the thickness to which you safe plastic wrap on a plate with a little water.

Time
Technique Ingredients Preparation Procedure (min)
cooking root vegetables beets, carrots, celery root, whole vacuum seal, or arrange on a plate and seal with 3-7
potatoes, turnips microwave-safe plastic wrap; cook medium beets
for 6 minutes, and rub off the skin
cooking leafy greens bok choy, broccoli, cabbage whole place in azip-top bag with 50 ml / Y., cup of water; 2-5
alternatively, arrange in a microwave-safe dish with
2 mm /Y•• in of water, and cover with microwave-safe
plastic wrap
cooking bulbs and fibrous artichokes, cardoon, celery, whole vacuum seal 2-5
vegetables fennel, leeks, onions

162 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

MICROWAVED BLACK COD WITH SCALLIONS AND GINGER

YIELD: two servings (450 g)

TIME ESTIMATE: 15 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy

This recipe was adapted from Margaret Lu, the mother ofJohnny you can substitute halibut fillets or small whole snapper, rockfish,
Zhu, one of the development chefs at The Cooking Lab. Mrs. Lu trout, black sea bass, pomfret, or sole for the black cod. Fishes differ
originally made the dish with tilapia. Johnny adapted it to cod, but a bit in their densities, so you may need to adjust the cooking time.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Black cod, skin on 450 g / llb 2 fillets 100% @ Place each fil let in a separate, microwave-safe zip-top bag, and then
place each one, skin-side down, on a microwave-safe plate.
Scalli on, white parts only, 25g 5-6 scallions 5.6% 0 Combine, and mound half on top of each fi ll et in the bag.
julienned ® Pour half of the wine into each bag.
Ginger, peeled and lOg 2-3 coins 2.2% 0 Microwave each fillet at 800 W until the fish becomes opaque and flakes
cut into coins easily, 3Y2-5 minutes, and then remove it from the bag, and scrape off
Shaoxing wine 5g 5 mL / lY., tsp 1% the sca lli on and ginger. If your microwave oven is more powerful than
800 W, lower the power level accordingly.
Soy sauce 25g 20 mL / 4Y., tsp 5.6% ® Combine, and pour half of the mixture even ly over each fish fillet.
Toasted-sesame oil 2g 2 mL /'/a tsp 0.4%
Scallion, green parts lOg ',4 cup 2.2% ® Garnish each cooked fillet.
only, finely julienned
Ginger, pee led and 3g 1 Tbsp 0.7%
finely julienned
Peanut oil 50 g 55 ml/3Y' Tbsp 11 % 0 Heat in a small pan to 190 •c / 374 •F.
® Drizzle the hot peanut o il over the garn ished fish. Serve immediately.

1 Place each fillet in a separate, microwave-safe zip-top bag, and then

place each one, skin-side down, on a microwave-safe p late. The p late 5 Comb ine the soy sauce and toasted-sesame oil, and pour half of the
mixture even ly over each of the two cooked fillets.
makes it eas ier to handle the fish.

6 Garnish each fillet with the julienned ginger and scallion greens.

2 Combine the scallion whites and ginger coins, and mound them on
eac h fillet in its bag.
7 Heat the peanut oi l in a sma ll pan to 190 •c / 374 •F.

3 Pour half of the Shaox ingwine into each bag and around the fish.
8 Drizzle one half of the hot peanut oil slowly and even ly over the top of
each fillet. The oi l should sizzle and pop as it releases the aromas of the

4 Microwave each fi ll et at 800 W until the fish becomes opaque and

flakes easily, 3Y2-5 minutes, and then remove it from its bag, and
scalli o ns. Serve the fish immediately.

scrape off the sca llion and ginger. Use caution: t he bags contain very
hot steam. If your microwave ove n is more powerful than 800 W,
lower the power level accord ingly. Set the power leve l of an 1,100 W
oven, for examp le, to 75% or leve l 7.

VARIATIONS
Microwaved Sea Bass, Tilapia, Halibut, or Sole Aromatic Microwaved Cod
To make this recipe with other kinds offish, use the cooking times For a more intensely aromatic dish, combine the Shaoxing wine with
given below. 10 g / 4 tsp of minced ginger a nd 25 g/ 4 tsp of minced scallion, white
parts only. Rub the mixture gently a nd even ly a ll over the surface
Whole black sea bass (450 g): 6Y2 minutes of each fillet, and then place t he fillets in bags as directed in step 1.
Whole tilapia (800 g): 6 minutes Contin ue at step 3.
Halibut fillet (170 g) : 2Y., minutes
Dover so le fillet (170 g): l Y2 minutes

DISHES FOR THE MICROWAVE 163

MICROWAVED BEEF JERKY

YIELD: 310 g/ about 32 strips

TIME ESTIMATE: 5-25 hours overall, including 1 hour ofpreparation and 4- 24 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days when stored in an airtight container
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: 1 L whipping siphon and two cartridges of nitrous oxide (optional)

Making beef jerky involves two time-consuming steps: marinating
and drying, each of which can take a day or more when done the tra-
ditional way. Modernist techniques can cut the time to just S hours.
You can use a whipping siphon to pressure-marinate the beef, and
then dry it in mere minutes in a microwave oven.
Jerky should be made oflean meat because beef fat quickly turns
rancid at room temperature. Flank steak is ideal, but any lean cut of
red meat will do, including venison or lamb. We prefer thick jerky,
but if you are using a tougher cut, such as a flatiron steak, cut the
strips as thinly as possible. This recipe uses soy sauce and fish sauce
to impart a mild Asian flavor; see below for spicy, smoky, and South
African variations.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Beef flank steak, trimmed 715 g/ 1.Sib 100% 0 Slice, against the grain, into strips that are 10 em / 4 in long and
12 mm / y, in thick.
Soy sauce 60 g 50 mL / 3Y, Tbsp 8.3% 0 Combine, and stir until the sugar disso lves to make a marinade.
Asian fish sauce 30 g 25 mL/ 1Y, Tbsp 4.2% ® Stir the beef strips in the marinade until coated.
Sugar 40g 3Tbsp 5.6% @) Transfer the meat and marinade to a 1 Lsiphon, charge with two
Maple syrup (grade B) 15g 1 Tbsp 2.1% cartridges of nitrous oxide, and refrigerate it for 4 hours. Alternatively,
Worcestershire sauce combine the meat and marinade in a zip-top bag, remove as much
4g 3 mL/Y2 tsp 0.6%
air as possible from the bag, seal it, and refrigerate it for 15-24 hours.
Black pepper 0.2g 'Is tsp 0.03%
® Drain the beef strips, and patthem dry with papertowels.
Cayenne pepper 0.2g Yo tsp 0.03%
@ Place the strips on a microwave-safe plate, leaving ample space between
the pieces for proper air circulation.
0 Cover with plastic wrap, and microwave at 500 W for 2Y, minutes.
® Let the strips rest for1-2 minutes.
® Remove the plastic wrap, drain off the liquid, and blot the pieces dry.
Flip and rotate the pieces to place the rarer parts facing up and near
the outside ofthe plate.
@ Microwave the strips, uncovered, at 500 W for 30 seconds. Blot and
flip the pieces.
@ Continue cooking in short bursts atSOO W, blotting any liquid that
forms and rotating as needed until the pieces are dark brown and dry,
2- 3 minutes more.
@ Transfer the cooked jerky to a clean plate, and cover it with plastic wrap.
@ Repeat steps 7-12 with all of the remaining beef strips.
@ Serve the jerky at room temperature.

VARIATIONS
Spicy jerky
In step 2, add 4 g/ 2 tsp of red chili flakes to the marinade.

Smoky jerky
In step 2, add 1.7 g / y, tsp of liquid hickory smoke to the marinade.

Biltongjerky
In step 2, add 7.5 g / 1Y2 Tbsp of ground coriander to the marinade,
and increase the quantity of black pepper to 7.5 g / 1Y, Tbsp.

164 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

1 Sl ice the flank steak, cutting aga inst the grain, into strips that are
10 em / 4 in long and 12 mm / Y2 in thick . We like our je rk y quite thick,
but make the strips thinner if using a toughe r cut, such as flatiron steak.

2 Comb in e the soy sauce, fish sauce, sugar, maple syrup, Worcestershire
sauce, and peppers, and stir until dissolved to make a marinade.

3 Stir the strips of meat into the marinade until they are well coated.

4 Transfer the meat a nd marinade to a 1 Lsipho n, charge the siphon

with two cartridges of nitrou s ox id e, and refrigerate it for 4 hours.
The high pressure accelerates marination. Alternatively, combine
the meat and marinade in a zip-top bag, remove as much air as
possible from the bag, a nd sea l it. Then refrigerate the sealed bag
for15 -24 hours . Lay the bag flat, if possible, and flip it periodically
so that the strips brine even ly.

5 Drain the marinade from the beef strips, and use paper towels to pat
them dry.

6 Arrange as many of the beef strips as will fit on a microwave-safe plate

whi le spacing them well apart. Proper drying requires ai r circulation,
so don't crowd the strips; work in batches as needed.

7 Coverthe plate w ith microwave-safe plastic wrap, and microwave

at 500 W for 2Y2 minutes to cook the meat.

8 Let the strips rest for a minute or two. Cooking a nd rest ing the meat
he lps keep it tender a nd reduces the drying time.

9 Remove the pl astic wrap, drain off the liquid, and blot t he pieces dry
with paper towe ls. Flip a nd rotate the pieces to place the rarer parts
facing up a nd near the outsid e of the plate.

10 Microwave t he strips, uncovered, at 500 W for 30 seco nd s. Blot

a nd flip the pieces.

11 Continue cook ing in short bursts at 500 W, blotting any liquid

that forms and rotating as needed until the pieces are dark brown
and dry, 2- 3 minutes more.

12 Transfer the cooked jerky to a clean pl ate, and cover it with

plastic wrap. This helps to equa lize the remaining moisture
among the strips.

13 Repeat steps 7-12 as needed to coo k the rema ining beef strips.

14 Serve the jerky at room temperature.

DISHES FOR THE MICROWAVE 165

CRISPY BEEF STRANDS

YIELD: 80 g/2 cups

TIME ESTIMATE: 490 hours overall, including 10 hours ofpreparation and 48 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 5 days when stored in an airtight container
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate

This recipe, which uses a cooking and drying technique very simi- garnish steak (see page 79), braised short ribs (see page 99), or
lar to that used to make Microwaved BeefJerky, produces delicate, any other meat dish that benefits from a crisp texture and an intense
crispy strands of fried beef. We use them in a Thai-inspired beef burst of umami flavor.
and shallot salad (see the next page), but you can also use them to

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

BeefAank steak, trimmed 500 g/1.11b 100% @ Slice with the grain into strips that are 10 cm / 4 in long and 12 mm / y, in
thick. Long, uncut threads of beef make better strands.
Soy sauce 125g 110 mL/Y2 cup 25% 0 Combine, and stir to dissolve.
Asian fish sauce 85g 70 mL/ 4Y' Tbsp 17% ® Stir th e meat and brine together to coat.
Sugar 14 g 1 Tbsp 2.8% 0 Transfer to a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag,
Salt 5g 1\4 tsp 1% and sea l it.
® Refrigerate for 48 hours.
® Drain off the brine, and pat the beef strips dry with paper towels.
0 Place the strips of beef on a microwave-safe plate, leaving at least
2 cm / 3,/.! in between the pieces for proper air circulation.
® Microwave the strips, a few at a time, at 800 W for 3-5 minutes, Aipping
them every minute or two, and patting them dry. Cook the strips until
they become brown and dry; they should still be slightly Aexible.
Neutral frying oil as needed ® Fill a deep pot with oi l to a depth of2.5 cm / 1 in, and preheatthe oi l to
see page vi ii 180 •c / 356 · F.
@ Pull the strips of dried beef apart into long, very thin strands.
@ Fry the beef strands in the hot oil until dry and crispy, about1 minute.
@ Drain on paper towels.
@ Serve hot.
Safety tips fardeepfrying: see page 4

166 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

CRISPY BEEF AND SHALLOT SALAD

YIELD: four servings (200 g /3 cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 20 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: serve immediately; fried shallots keep for up to 5 days in an airtight container
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: Crispy Beef Strands (see the previous page); Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze (see page 33)

We developed this salad as a garnish to our recipe in Modernist To make the salad more substantial, try adding shredded pineapple
Cuisine for short ribs cooked sous vide. It was inspired by the Austra- and green papaya (available at Asian or Latin American markets),
lian chef David Thompson. The crispy beef strands are delicious or julienned jicama and cucumber. For a Western version, try baby
and set up a wonderful contrast with the Asian flavors of the salad. arugula, shredded fennel, and red onion.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Neutral frying oil as needed CD Preheatl em /% in of frying oil to 170 oc / 338 oF in a deep-sided ski llet.
see page vii i
0 Deep-fry unti l dry and golden, about 2 minutes.
Shallot, sliced 50 g y, cup 63% ® Drain on paper towels.
1 mm / '/32 in thick
Salt to taste 0 Season the fried shallots, and set them asid e.
Crispy Beef Strands BOg 2 cups 100% ® Toss together with the fried sha llots.
see the previous page
Cilantro stems, cut to 3g 1 Tbsp 3.8%
1 em /% in lengths
Scallion, finely julienned 2g 1 Tbsp 2.5%
Small cil antro leaves 2g 1 Tbsp 2.5%
Small mint leaves 2g 1 Tbsp 2.5%
Small Thai basil leaves 2g 1 Tbsp 2.5%
Lime zest, finely julienned l.Sg l'/2 Tbsp 1.8%
Thai chi li, seeded and 1g 1-2 chili es 1.3%
sliced paper thin
Thai Sweet, Sour, a nd lOOg y, cup 125% 0 Warm the glaze, a nd drizzle it into the sa lad.
Savory Glaze
see page33
Lime juice to taste 0 Season the sa lad, and serve it immediately.
Salt to taste
Safety tipsfor deep frying: see page 4

VARIATION: Crispy Shallots

After step 4, store the crispy, sa lted sha llots in an airtight container. Use
them on steaks, in salad s, or in Savory Cheese Pie (see variation
on page 183).

DISHES FOR THE MICROWAVE 167

M ICROWAVE-FRIED PARSLEY

YIELD: about 50 leaves

TIME ESTIMATE: 15 minutes overall
STORAGE NOTES: best served immediately, but keeps for 1 day when stored in an airtight container
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy

The microwave oven is the secret to making an impressive herb gar- basil, dill, carrot tops, baby spinach, and lovage work equally well.
nish quickly, without the mess offrying in oil. After microwaving, the Verbena and lemon balm, however, tend to brown and wilt too
Italian parsley remains a brilliant emerald green, the texture becomes quickly. Inexpensive PVC-based plastic wrap is not recommended;
intriguingly crisp, and the leaves lie perfectly flat. We find that sage, use plastic specifically designed for use in microwave ovens.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME PROCEDURE

Neutral-tasting oil as needed CD Stretch a piece of microwave-safe plastic wrap taut over a microwave-
or cooking spray safe plate. The plastic should seal tightly to the edge of the plate.
0 Brush the plastic wrap with a thin film of oil, or coat it with cooking spray.
Italian parsley about SO '/2 cup ® lay the parsley leaves on the prepared plastic wrap, leaving about
leaves 2 cm / :Y.. in between the leaves . Work in batches as needed.
0 Brush the tops of the leaves lightly with oil, or use cooking spray or your
fingers to dab on the oil.
® Microwave at 800 W until crisp, about 4 minutes. Check the leaves
every 90 seconds; do not let them burn .
Salt to taste ® Transfer the fried leaves to a tray lined with papertowels, and season
them.
0 Repeat with the remaining oil and parsley leaves. Change the plastic
wrap on every other batch to prevent overheating.
® Serve the fried herbs at room temperature.
(adapted from Heston Blumenthal)

1 Stretch a piece of microwave-safe plastic wrap taut over a microwave-

safe plate. The plastic should seal tightly to the edge of the plate. 5 Microwave at 800 W until crisp, about 4 minutes. Check the leaves
every 90 seconds to make certain that they don't burn .

2 Brush the plastic wrap with a thin fi lm of oil, or coat it with cooking
spray. 6 Transfer the crisp, fried parsley leaves to a tray lined with paper towe ls,
and season them.

3 Lay the parsley leaves on the prepared plastic wrap. Space the leaves
about 2 cm / 3A in apart. Work in batches as needed. 7 Repeat with the remaining oil and parsley leaves . Change the plastic
wrap on every other batch to keep it from overheating.

4 Brush the tops of the leaves lightly with oil, or use cooking spray or your
fingers to dab on the oil. 8 Serve the fried herbs at room temperature .

168 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

INSTANT CHOCOLATE SPONGE

YIELD: six to eight servings (650 g)

TIME ESTIMATE : 40 minutes overall, including 20 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: batter keeps for 24 hours when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS: 1 L whipping siphon, three cartridges of nitrous oxide, six to eight heavy-duty paper cups, Wondra,
xanthan gum (optional)

With a whipping siphon, you can prepare and cook a fluffy, warm If heavy-duty paper cups are not available, use pairs of stacked
cake in just minutes. It will have a rough, rustic texture unlike a con- regular cups. Never use waxed cups; they will melt. The xanthan
ventional cake-more like a coarse, steamed sponge. Serve it alone gum in this recipe helps bind the batter so that it stays lighter when
or with fruit, ice cream, or Sous Vide Lemon Curd (see page 174). it sets. But the recipe works fine without it.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Whole milk 150 g 150 mL /'/J cup 120% 0 Cut fo ur slits spaced equa ll y a round the bottom edge of a heavy-duty
Semisweet chocolate, 115g 3,4 cu p 92% paper cup; repeat fo r the remaining five to seven cups.
chopped 0 Comb in e the milk, choco late, and butter in a microwave-safe bowl,
Unsalted butte r, cubed 75g '/a cu p 60% and microwave at 1,100 W until melted, about 1 minute.
® Whisk until smooth. Coo l slightly.
Eggs, blended 100 g Y, cup / 80% 0 Whisk into the cooled choco late mixture.
about2 eggs
Wondra 125g 1 cup 100% ® Sift together.
Powdered suga r 125g 11,4 cups 100% ® Fold a third of the choco late mixture into the dry ingredients, and then
Dutch-processed 6g 2 tsp 4.8% stir in the remainder to form a smooth batter.
cocoa powder 0 Pour the batter into a 1 Lsiphon, and charge it with three cartridges
Salt 5.5g lV2 tsp 4.4% of nitrous oxide.
8akingsoda 0.6g Ya tsp 0.48% ® Allow the siphon to sit at room temperature for 20 minutes.
Xanthan gum 0 .3g 0.24%
(Bob's Red Mill brand),
optiona l
Cooking spray as needed ® Spray the inside of each paper cup with cooking spray, wiping away
any excess oil.
@ Dispense enough batter to fill a quarter of one paper cup.
@ Microwave the cake at 1,100 W for 50 seconds to cook through.
@ Let the cake rest for a few seconds, and then upend it onto a plate.
@ Repeat steps 10-12 with the remaining batter and cups. Serve warm.

VARIATIONS
In each of the variations below, first follow step 1 to prepare the cups. Then whisk together Raspberry Macadamia Nut Sponge
the first group of ingredients listed for the variation. Next, sift together the dry ingredients Raspberry juice 150g 150 mL / 2/J cup
listed in the second group. Then continue with steps 6-13. Macadamia butte r 115g '/a cup
Eggs, beaten 100 g 2 eggs
Macadamia o il 76g 80 mL /'/a cup
Peanut Butter Sponge Sesame Sponge
Egg wh ite, beate n 40g 3Tbsp
Whole milk 150g 150 ml/ 2/J cup Whole milk 150g 150 mL/ 2/J cup
Powdered suga r 187g lo/a cups
Natural peanut 115g Y, cup Tah ini 115 g Y2 cup
butte r, smooth Wondra 125g 1 cup
Eggs, beaten 100 g 2eggs
Eggs, beaten 2eggs Freeze-Dri ed 15g 2Tbsp
100 g Toasted-sesame oil 50g 55 mL/',4 cup Raspberry Powd e r
Hazelnut oil 76 g 80 mL /'/a cup Powd ered sugar 187g lo/a cups see page 182
Powd e red suga r 187g 1o/a cups Wondra 125g 1 cup Sa lt 9g 21,4 tsp
Wondra 125g 1 cup Salt 9g 21,4 tsp Powdered milk 5g 2 tsp
Salt 9g 21,4 tsp 8ak ingsoda 0.6g Ya tsp Baking soda 0.6g Yatsp
Baking soda 0.6g Ya tsp

DISHES FOR THE MICROWAVE 169

MAKING CUSTARD
The term "custard " spans so many possible ingredients and
techniques that it is most useful to think of custard as simply a
particular texture and mouthfeel. Custards have been made for
centuries by lightly cooking a blend of eggs and heavy cream,
but Modernist chefs have invented myriad new ways to make
them. These techniques offer greater consistency and more
contro l over the texture, wh ich can range from airy and fluid to
dense and firm. Many of the lighter varieties of custard can be
aerated in a whipping sip hon into smooth, creamy foams . The
one constant among custards is the use of plenty of fat, which
not o nl y provides that distinctive mouthfeel but also makes
custard an excellent carrier of fat-solub le flavors and aromas.

Thickening or gelling
Recipe process Texture Application or garnish Note See page
creme anglaise egg yo lks and heat light, pourable sauce for fruit salads or cook so us vide fo r a smoother 176
warm cakes; base for ice texture
cream or milk shakes
creme brt:llee, egg yolks and heat very rich, smooth stand-alone, single- avoid overcooking, weeping, 172
pot de creme portion desserts or bubbl ing by cooking in a
flan whole eggs and heat bouncy, brittle water bath; vary the ratio of
egg yolk to white to explore
a range of appealing textures
gelato nut milk, dairy or thicken- rich, si lky ice-cream sandwiches; fat co ntent should be 30%-50%; 177
ing gum, and cold composed desserts the finer the ice crystals, the
better; use hydrocolloid thick-
eners to make vegan gelato
panna cotta dairy, gelatin or agar, firm, springy, and very molded and cut desserts firms over time when made 175
and heat smooth; can be rubbery with gelatin; use agar to make
a vegetarian vers ion
pastry cream egg yolks and heat pudding-like pie fillings; napoleons; make as a fluid ge l to avoid 180
cream puff fillings; using starch as a thickener;
puddings blend the yo lks with liquid
whi le sti ll warm
posset dairy, acid, and heat very rich, dense sweet accompaniment to measure weights and tempera- 173
acid ic fruits and sauces lures accurately for consistent
results
sabayon egg yolks and heat foamy, airy pie topping; in savory use a whipping siphon to foam 176
form, an accompan im ent the custard instantly
to steamed vegetab les

17 0 MODERNI ST CUI SINE AT HOME

HOW TO Make a Milk or Cream Infusion- - - -- -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Many of our dessert recipes use a flavored liquid. Often the dominant to create variations of many of the recipes on pages 172- 176. You
flavor is infused into cream or milk. You can use the information below may need to a dju st t he yie ld to fit the recipe yo u are adapting.

INFUSIONS
1 Measure 300 g/ 300 ml / 1',4 cups of milk,
3 If the instructions say to sea l the ingredi-
cream, sugar syrup, or eq ual parts of cream
and milk.
2 Mix the ingredients into the liquid.
ents together, place them in a zip-top bag,
remove as much air from the bag as possible
by using t he water-displacement method
(see page 6), and seal it.
4 Infuse as instructed; typica ll y this requires
overnight refrigeration or cooking so us vide
in a preheated water bath.
5 Stra in the infusion, and substitute it in the
custard recipe for the flavored syrup, mil k,
or cream.

Bacon Brown Sugar Infusion
Replace the sugar in the recipe with
brown sugar. Seal the liquid with
60 g/ 3/s cup of thin ly sli ced bacon
in a zip-top bag, and cook so us
vide at 85 "C/ 185 "Ffor 2 hours.
Cool the infused liquid, and then
strain it.
Cinnamon Van ill a Infu sio n
Seal the liquid with 10 g / 2 sticks of
cinna mon and 1 g/Y.. tsp of van ill a
seeds (scraped from 1 pod) in a
zip-top bag. Infuse the mixture
overnight, refrigerated . Strain.
(Alternative ly, if time is limited,
simply add 2 g / 1 tsp offres hly
grated cinnamon and t he va nilla
seeds to the cream and milk
mixture, and sk ip the overn ight
infusion.)
Citrus Infu sion
Sea l the liquid with 3 g / 1 Tbsp of
grated lemo n zest, 3 g/ 1 Tbsp of
grated lim e zest, and 3 g / 1 Tbsp
of grated orange zest in a zip-top
bag. In fuse the mixture overn ight,
refrigerated. Stra in .
Coconut Infusion
Replace t he heavy cream with
coconut cream, and t he milk with
coconut milk. Sea l t he liq uid with
25 g / y, cup oftoasted coconut in
a zip-top bag. Infuse the mixture
overnight, refrigerated. Strain.
Fruity Pebble s Infusion
Seal t he liqui d with 50 g / 1',4 cups
of Fruity Pebbles brand cereal in
a zip-top bag. Infuse the mixture
overnight, refrigerated. Strain .
Middle Eas te rn Infu sion
Seal the liquid with 8 g/ lYz Tbsp of
ca rd amom seeds and 4- 5 threads
of saffron in a zip-top bag. Infu se
t he mixture overnight, refrigerated.
Strain. Add 3 g/ o/a tsp of orange
b lossom water and 3 g / o/s tsp of
rose flower water.
Mint Infu sio n
Seal the liquid with 32 g / 1 cup
of mint leaves in a zip-top bag,
and cook so us vide at 80 "C/ 176 "F
for1 hour. Coo l t he infu sed liquid,
and then strain it.
lemongrass Ginge r Infusion
Sea l th e liqu id with 100 g / 1',4 cu p
of thinly sliced lemongrass and
15 g/ 1 Tbsp of thinly sli ced ginger
in a zip -top bag. Infuse the mixture
overnight, refrigerated. Strain.
Popcorn Infu s ion
Combi ne the liqu id with 45 g /
2Yz cups of popped, butter-
flavored microwave popcorn.
Blend the mixture coarsely; an
immersion blender works well.
Seal the coarse puree in a zip-top
bag, and infuse the mixture over-
night, refrigerated . Strain. Use a
ladle to press all of the liquid from
the swollen popcorn.
Earl Grey Tea Infus ion
Sea l the liqu id with 15 g / 3 Tbsp of
loose-leaf Earl Grey tea in a zip-top
bag. Infuse the mixture overn ight,
refrigerated. Strain . Add 3- 5 drops
of bergamot essentia l oil (optional).

FLAVORINGS
The flavorings below a re ad a ptations of the Coffee Creme Brulee recipe
on the next page. You can use the techniques illustrated he re to c reate
a widge range of creamy desserts.

Hon ey Flavoring Almond Flavoring Chocolate Flavoring

Replace the sugar in the recipe
with 50 g / 2Yz Tbsp of honey.
Green Tea Flavoring
Add 4 g/ 2 tsp of matcha green
tea powder to the b lended
custard mixture.
Mandarin Fl avo ring
Add 15 drops of mandarin esse nti al
o il to the blended custa rd mixture .
Pistachio Flavoring
Use 160 g /r's cup of egg yo lks
and 80 g/ '/a cup of suga r. Add
80 g/ Y.. cup of smoot h pistachio
butter to t he blended custard.
When making t he custa rd,
use 80 g / 'Is cup of sugar and
160 g/r's cup of egg yo lks. Add
80 g / Y.. cup of roasted, smooth
almond butter and 1 drop of high-
quality bitter a lm ond extract to
the blended custard mixture.
Caramel Flavoring
Cook the sugar in a saucepa n to
a da rk ambe r. Add t he crea m a nd
milk; take care to protect yo ur face
and ha nd s from the steam. Whisk
to combi ne. Chill the mixture
before using it.
Melt100 g /o/s cup of finely
chopped, dark chocolate into
the liqui d. Cool it to room
temperature before using it
in the recipe .
Raspberry Fl avoring
Replace t he milk with 125 g/
Y, cup of fresh raspberry syrup
or sieved raspbe rr y puree. Use
175 g / 190 ml / :Y,. cup of heavy
crea m and 42 g/ 3 Tbsp of sugar
in the custa rd .

CUSTARDS AND PIES 171

 COFFEE CREME BRULEE

YIELD: four servings (330 g/ 10 cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 1534 hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 150 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for up to 2 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: so us vide setup, blowtorch, four 100 mL / 3 oz ramekins

The flavor of coffee custard is much brighter and more intense when
the coffee is infused cold than it is in the traditional, hot-infused
version. Cold-infusing retains many volatile aromas that would dis-
sipate quickly if the coffee were heated. And the technique could
hardly be easier: simply soak whole coffee beans in cream overnight.
As with most egg dishes, accurate temperature control is crucial
for making a custard with just the right texture. Use a thermometer
to check that your water bath or combi oven hits and holds the set
temperature. (If using a combi oven, set the oven to full steam at
82 'C / 180 'F in step 3.)

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Heavy cream 150g 165 mL/:Y,. cup 100% 0 Combine, and refrigerate for12 hours to infuse.
Whole milk 150g 150 mL / 2/J cup 100% 0 Strain, and measure 200 g/7'a cup of the infused cream for use in step 4.
Whole, dark-roast BOg :Y,. cup 53% ® Place four100 mL / 3 oz ramekins on a rack in a water bath, and fill with
coffee beans water to 1 em I :Y. in below the tops of the ramekins . Preheat the bath to
82 ' C/ 180 ' F.
Egg yolks 80 g 4-5 yolks 53% 0 Blend together with 200 g /7'• cup of the infused cream unti l fully
Sugar 50g Y.. cup 33% blended.
Salt 0.3g pinch 0.2% ® Sieve and let settle.
® Divide even ly among four ramekins.
0 Seal the ramekins tightly with plastic wrap.
® Cook to a core temperature of 80 ' C/ 176 ' F, about 1 hour.
® Remove the ramekins carefully from the water bath by using tongs .
@ Refrigerate the custards until they are fully chilled, about 2 hours,
and then remove the plastic wrap.
Sugar as needed @ Sprinkle onto the tops of the custards.
@ Melt and caramelize the sugar by using a blowtorch.
@ Let cool to a crisp crust, and serve.
Safety tips for blowtorching: see page 2

VARIATIONS
Pot de Creme
Skip steps 10-12, and serve the custard chilled. To reduce the cooking time, temper the yolks by heating the infused cream
before step 4. At step 4, whisk the warmed cream gently into the yolks.
Bain-Marie Creme Bru lee
To cook the custard traditionally, preheat the oven to 162 ' C/ 325 ' Fat
step 3. Place a kitchen towel in the bottom of a baking dish, fill it with water
to the level specified in step 3, and then proceed with step 4. At step 7,
cook for 25-30 minutes. Continue with step 8.

Flan
Flan has a more elastic texture than creme bru lee does, but it is made
similarly. Simply substitute whole milk for the heavy cream, and 100 g /
7 Tbsp of blended whole eggs (5-6 eggs) for the egg yolks. You can make
caramel (see the Finishing Variation on the next page) and pour it into the
ramekin before you fill it with custard .

172 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

1 Combine the cream, milk, and coffee beans. Refrigerate the mixture
for12 hours to infuse.
2 Strain the mixture, and measure 200 g/Ys cup of the infused cream to
use in step 4.
8 Cook the custard base in the water bath to a core temperature of
80 °( / 176 °F, about 1 hour. Use a thermometer to check the tempera-
ture. The cooking time depends on the size of the ramekins, the start-
ing temperature of the cream, and the bath design. The custards cook
faster in a bath heated from the bottom.

9 Lift the ramekins careful ly from the water bath . Use tongs.
3 Place four100 mL/3 oz ramekins (or smal l cups or bowls) into an
empty water bath, and fil l with eno ugh water to reach 1 em I Ya in below
the tops ofthe vessels. Use a rack or shelf to allow water to circu late
beneath the vesse ls. Preheat the water bath to 82 oC/180 °F. 10 Refrigerate the custards until they are fully chill ed, about 2 hours,
and then remove the plastic wrap.

4 Blend the 200 g/ )ls cup of infused cream with the egg yolks, sugar,
and salt. An immersion blender works well. This is the custard base. 11 Sprinkle sugar over the tops of the co ld custards .

12 Melt and caramelize the sugar by sweep ing the flame of a blowtorch

5 Sieve the mixture, and let it settle. Fewer air bubbles translates into
a richer, denser texture .
over it.

13 Let the sugar coo l to a crisp crust before serving it.

6 Divide the custard base evenly among the ramekins.

7 Seal the ramekins tightly with plastic wrap. FINISHING VARIATION

Instead ofb lowtorching the custards, you can make caramel by carefu lly
heating sugar in a shallow pan over medium heat until it turns dark brown;
remove it from the heat before it burns. After step 10, pour the carame l
over each custard, and al low it to cool to a crisp crust before serving it. If
you are making many servi ngs, this method is faster than using a blowtorch.

LEMON POSSET
YIELD: six servings (415 g)
TIME EST IMATE: 120 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 12 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 4 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: citric acid, So us Vide Lemon Curd (optional, see the next page)

Perhaps the oldest way to make a dairy gel is to add an acid, such as that Shakespeare refers to it in Macbeth. Our Modernist version uses
citrus juice (which contains citric acid). The acid causes the proteins citric acid, which is more consistent than lemon juice, but you can
in the milk to coagulate into curds. Fresh cheeses such as ricotta and substitute 57 g I 57 mL I 1/4 cup oflemon juice. Garnish the posset
paneer are made this way, and so is posset, a creamy delicacy so old with seasonal berries or a citrus salad, according to the season.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Heavy cream 300 g 330 ml/1'/s cups 100% CD Combine in a pot, and stir to dissolve the sugar.
Sugar 51 g '/t cup 17% 0 Heat to 88 °C/ 190 °Fwhile stirring constantly.
Citric acid 2.1 g 0.7% 0 Remove the pot from the heat, and stir in until the citric acid crysta ls are
comp letely dissolved and the mixture thickens to a thin custard.
0 Cool at room temperature for10 minutes so that condensation does not
build up in steps 5 or 7 and make the curd runny.
® Divide evenly into six ramekins o r other small dishes.
0 Cover the ramekins with plastic wrap, and place them in the refrigerator
forl2 hours.
So us Vide Lemon Curd 120 g /4 cup
3 40% 0 Pipe or spoon a thin layer onto each portion of possetwhile the custard
(optional) is sti ll soft; it firms as it coo ls.
see the next page
® Stir the posset to soften it, and serve it chill ed .

CUSTARDS AND PIES 173

SOUS VIDE LEMON CURD
YIELD: six to eight servings (850 g/ 3 cups)
TIME ESTIMATE: 4:34 hours overall, including 15 minutes of preparation and 41/z hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3-4 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: so us vide setup, citric acid, 1 L whipping siphon and two cartridges of nitrous oxide (optional),
lemon essential oil (optional)

By cooking the eggs in basic lemon curd sous vide, you can make curd to room temperature first to make a more fluid foam. You can
large amounts without the hassle of a double boiler or the risk of adjust the acidity of the curd without altering the texture by tailor-
overcurdling. If you have a whipping siphon, you can also foam the ing the amount of citric acid. You can substitute freshly grated lemon
curd by pouring it into the siphon before it has fully set; bring the zest for the lemon essential oil.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Egg yolks, blended 120 g y, cup / 8-10 yolks 30% G) Preheat a water bath to 65 •c / 149 •F.
0 Place in a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag by
using the water-displacement method (see page 6), a nd sea l it.
® Cook so us vide for 35 minutes .
0 Plunge the bag into ice water.
Sugar 300g lY2 cups 75% ® Combine in a medium saucepan, and boil until the sugar and citric acid
Water 40g 40 mL/ 2Y2 Tbsp 10% dissolve complete ly, about 2 minutes.
Citric acid Bg 2% @ Cool the syrup to room temperature.
0 Pourthe cooked egg yo lks into a blender. Add the syrup gradua lly whi le
blending.
Unsalted butter, room 400g 1:Y., cups 100% ® Continue blending, and drop cubes of butter into the mixture until all
temperature, cubed of the butter is comp lete ly incorporated.
Lemon essential oi l 1g 1 mL /Y., tsp 0.3% ® Stirin.
(opt ional)
@ Cover a nd refrigerate until thickened, about 4 hours.
Salt O.Sg Ya tsp 0.1% @ Serve co ld.

Temperature is key to combining the ingredients smooth ly: if the butter is

too cold, it will not blend in even ly. If the butter is too warm, the curds will
sepa rate or seem greasy.

VARIATIONS
Fruit Curds
Substitute fresh citrus juice, such as grapefruit, mandarin, orange, Meyer
lemon, or lime juice, for the water and citric acid in step 5. At step 9, add
the grated zest of th e fruit. Alternatively, use fresh pineapple juice that
has been simmered until reduced by half, fresh passion fruit puree, or
cranberry juice in place of the citrus juice.

Foamed Lemon Curd

After step 9, pour half of the curd into a 1 Lsiphon whi le it is sti ll runny,
charge the siphon with two cartridges of nitro us oxide, and then dispense
the foam. If you a re substituting lemo n zest for the essential oil, strai n the
curd before putting it into the siphon.

174 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

RASPBERRY PANNA COTTA
YIELD: six servings (350 g)
TIME ESTIMATE: 5~ hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 5 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for up to 2 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: gelatin (or agar and xanthan gum, or iota and kappa carrageenan, for vegetarian versions)

This panna cotta recipe illustrates how even a very simple dish can
be enhanced by one fundamental Modernist step-weighing the
gelatin! Don't dump in a whole envelope or teaspoonful; use a scale to
measure just enough gelatin to set the custard. If you scale the recipe,
use 0.8 g of Knox brand powdered gelatin for every 100 g of liquid.
Gels made with gelatin strengthen as they age, so the panna cotta
will be firmer if you make it a day or two in advance. Although panna
cotta is usually served cold, you can soften it slightly by warming it
to room temperature before serving. Gelatin melts at 37 •c / 100 •p,
so don't warm it too much.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Whole milk, cold 30g 30 ml / 2Tbsp 10% CD Sprinkle the gelatin over the cold milk.
Powdered ge latin 4.3 g 1.4% 0 Let stand for 5-10 minutes to soften the gelatin.
(Knox brand)
Heavy cream 300g 330 mL/ H'a cups 100% ® Blend together, and then mix with the softened ge latin and milk in a pot.
Fresh raspberry puree 200 g Va cup 67% 0 Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat until the gelatin dissolves.
Sugar 75g Yo cup 25% ® Strain through a fine sieve.
Salt 0.3g pinch 0 .1 % ® Cool to room temperature, and then divide it evenly into six small bowls .
0 Cover and refrigerate until fully set, at least 5 hours.

WORKING WITH GELATIN Kinds of Gelatin

Ge latin is the gelling agent used in many traditional dishes, from Fre nch pates Name Bloom st rength Grams per sheet
to British aspics to American je ii-O. It is so ld in sheet, granu le, and powder bronze 125-155 3.3
form, a ll of which come in a variety of gelling strengths, o r Bloom ratings. Th e
si lver 160 2.5
higher the Bloom rating, the stro nge rthe gel that forms when a give n a mo unt
of gelatin is dissolved in a fixed amount of water. gold 190-220 2.0
The recipe above ca ll s for Knox brand powdered gelatin, whi ch has a Bloom Knox brand 225 n/ a
strength of225. You can use sheet gelatin instead as long as the Bloom rating platinum 235-265 1.7
is comparable. Gelatins are sometim es labe led as bronze, silver, gold, a nd
platinum rather than with a Bloom rati ng; the table at right conn ects the two
rating systems. Go ld or platinum gelat in can be substituted directly for Knox Converting Bloom strengths
powdered gelatin . Alternative ly, substitute 1.3 g of bronze ge latin or 1.1 g of If you know both the weight MA and the Bloom strength BA
silver gelatin for every100 g of liquid . of gelatin A, you can calculate the equivalent weight MB of
Sheet gelatin is so ld at some specialty food markets. To use the sheets, soak gelatin B having a Bloom strength ofBB by using the formu la
them in water until they soften, a nd then drain and squeeze them gently to MB =MA x BA .,. BB.
remove excess moisture. The softened sheets can then be dissolved in hot For examp le, if a recipe ca ll s for 2.6 g of Knox gelatin, you
liquid as in steps 3 and 4. can instead use 2.6 x 225 .;. 160 = 3.7 g of sil ver ge latin .

1 Sprink le the gelatin over the cold milk.

5 Strain the mixture through a fine sieve.

2 Let stand for 5-10 minutes to soften the

gelatin.
3 Blend togetherthe cream, raspberry
puree, sugar, and salt, and then mix with
the softened ge latin and milk in a pot.
4 Bring the mixture to a simme r over
medium-low heat un til the gelatin
dissolves completely.
6 Cool the panna cotta to room tempera-
ture, and then divide it evenly into six
small bowls, about 60 g pe r serving.
7 Cover the bowls, and refrigerate them
until the pan na cotta is fu ll y set, at least
5 hours. Setting forB hours is prefer-
able. Garn ish with fres h raspberries o r
other seasona l fruit.
VARIATIONS
Fruit jellies
Use 0.8 g of Knox brand powdered ge latin with any fruit
juice to make a fun, colorfu l dessert.
Vegetarian Panna Cotta
Substitu te a mixture of0.8 g agar and 0.65 g xanthan gum
fo r the ge latin . Alternatively, use a mixture of 0.65 g of iota
carrageenan and 0.5 g of kappa carrageenan. These ge lling
agents are derived from seaweed o r bacterial fer mentation;
whereas ge latin is made from animal sources, such as pig or
fis h sk in . For more details o n making ge ls, see page 21.

CUSTARD S AND PIE S 175

SOUS VIDE VANILLA CREME ANGLAISE

YIELD: six to eight servings (775 g/ 3 cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 1 hour overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 45 minutes unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: so us vide setup

Creme anglaise is a thin custard that has myriad uses: transform
it into a rich milk shake, pour it over fresh berries, or churn it into
unctuous ice cream. The classic stove-top method for making it is
laborious; cook it sous vide instead, and you can do other things
while it cooks. The custard turns out just as smooth.
We chose vanilla seeds to use in this recipe because of the intense
flavor they lend to the custard. Vanilla lovers may even want to double
the amount of seeds used. But you can substitute many other kinds of
flavorings for the vanilla. Try foaming creme anglaise in a whipping
siphon to make an ethereal garnish to fresh fruit or apple pie.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Whole milk SOOg 520 mL/ 2Ys cups 100% 0 Preheat a water bath to 83 •c / 181 •F.
Egg yolks, blended 150 g o/a cup/8 -10 yo lks 30% 0 Whisk together, and spoon off any foam.
Heavy cream 63 g 70 mL / 5 Tbsp 13% ® Pour into a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag by
Sugar 63 g STbsp 13% using the water-displacement method (see page 6), and seal it.
Vanilla seeds 1.8g from 1- 2 pods 0.36% @) Cook so us vide for45 minutes.
® Remove the bag from the water bath, and immerse it in ice water until
the mixture has coo led completely.
® Puree the mixture until smooth by using an immers ion blender.
0 Pass the creme through a fine sieve, and serve it warm or cold.

1 Preheat a water bath to 83 •c / 181 •F. VARIATION: Sabayon

2 Whisk the milk, egg yo lks, cream, sugar, and vanilla seeds together.
Try not to create bubbles; if foam appears on the surface, spoon it off.
In Italian cuisine, a light foam stabilized by an egg yolk custard is called
a zabagli one and often contains marsala wine or another alcohol. In
France, it is ca ll ed sabayon and is made without alcohol. To make it, pour
150 g/o/a cup of blended egg yo lks (about 10 yolks) into a zip-top bag,
re move as much air as possible from the bag, and seal it. Cook so us vid e in

3 Pour the custard into a zip-top bag. Remove as much air as possible
from the bag by using the water-displacement method (see page 6),
and seal it.
4 Cook sous vide for 45 minutes.
a 70 •c / 158 •Fwater bath for 35 minutes. Blend the cooked yo lks while they
are sti ll warm with 50 g/'14 cup of sugar and 175 g / 180 mL / :Y.. cup of milk,
water, or fruit juice. Cool, and then pour into a whipping siphon. Charge
with three cartridges of nitrous oxide, and shake. Dispense the foam
immediately, or refrigerate it in the siphon.

5 Remove the bag from the water bath, and immerse it in ice water until
the mixture has coo led comp lete ly.

6 Puree the mixture until smooth by using an immersion blender.

7 Pass the creme through a fine sieve, and serve it warm or cold. The
vanilla seeds tend to settle over time, so stir or blend as needed
before serving.

176 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

PISTACHIO GELATO

YIELD: eight servings (1 kg / 4 cups)

TIME ESTIMATE: 5 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 40 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: best when served within 24 hoursj keeps for up to 1 week when frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: ice-cream machine, tapioca starch, xanthan gum, pistachio butter, pistachio oil

This gelato h as become a signature dish from Modernist Cuisine; we
serve it at most of our events. Vegans particularly enjoy it because
it is as smooth and intense as the best gelato, but contains no eggs
or dairy. A sid e benefit of that feature is that the gelato can be melted
and safely rechurned if it free zes too hard. You may find that you
need to warm the gelato for 10 minutes before serving it if it has
been in the freezer for 24 hours or more .
The recipe works with any kind of nut butter, whether you buy
it commercially or make your own by using a powerful blender,
such as a Vitamix. The variations listed below are just a starting
point; cashew and almond butters also make delicious gelati. Use
the highest-quality nut butter you can find . For pistachio gelato,
it is crucial to u se 100% pistachio butter that has no coloring or
other additives.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Cold water 680g 680 mL / 2i"a cups 100% CD Measure into a pot.
Sugar 155g :Y., cup 23% 0 Combin e.
Tap ioca starch 25g \4 cup 3.7% ® Blend into th e co ld water grad ually by using an imm e rsio n blender.
Salt 7g 1:Y., tsp 1% 0 Bring to a bo il whi le ble nding constantly.
Xanthan gum 0.3g 0 .04% ® Remove the pot from the heat.
(Bob's Red Mill brand)
Pistachio butter, pure 210 g :Y., cup 31% ® Blend into th e mixture until thoroughly combin ed.
(Bronte Sicilian, PreGel 0 Chill the mixture over an ice bath.
brand)
® Churn the mixture in an ice-crea m mach in e until it freezes and thickens,
Pistachio oil 102g 110 mL / V2 cup 15% a bou t 30 minutes.
(Castelmuro brand)
® Cover th e top of the gelato with pl astic wrap, and freeze it in a sea led
co ntain e r until firm, at least 4 hours.

VAR IATIONS
Hazelnut Gelato
Substitute hazelnut butter and hazelnut oil fo r
the pistachio butter and pistachio oil. Because
of its high fat content, hazelnut gelato does not
look as smooth as pistach io ge lato does, but its
mouthfee l is just as creamy.
Strawberry Macadamia Gelato
Substitute fresh strawberry juice for the water,
a nd substitute raw macadamia butter a nd raw
macadamia oi l for the pistachio butter and
pistachio oil. It is important to use raw nut butter
in this case because the fl avor of roasted nu t
butter clashes with that of the strawbe rr y juice.
P. B. & j. Gelato
Substitute peanut butte r a nd roasted peanut oil
for the pistach io butter an d pistachio o il, and
substitute either fresh strawberry juice or fresh
Concord grape juice for the wate r. Reduce the
amount of sugar used to 125 g/o/a cup.

1 Measure the water into a pot.

6 Blend the pi stach io b utter and pistachi o o il gradually into th e pot until
thorough ly combined. Use a n imme rsion blender.

2 Combine the suga r, tapioca starc h, salt, a nd xanthan gum .

Dry-blending the thickening age nts he lps to ens ure that they
are distributed even ly in the next ste p. 7 Chill the mixture over an ice bath. Whisk the mixture occasio na ll y to
he lp it cool even ly.

3 Blend the dry ingredients into the water by using an immersion

blender. 8 Transfer th e mi xture to an ice-cream machine, a nd churn it until it
thickens and freezes.

4 Bring the mixture to a boil whi le ble nding consta ntly.

9 Tra nsfer th e gelato to a con-tainer, press plastic wrap onto the surface
of th e ge lato, and sea l the co ntain e r. Then place it in the freezer until
the ge lato is firm , at least 4 hours. Th e pl astic wrap preve nts a sk in from
5 Re move the pot from th e heat.
formin g o n the ge lato. You may need to te mpe r th e ge lato at room tem-
perature slightly before serving it.

CUSTARDS AND PIES 1 77

FLAKY PIE CRUST

YIELD: 475 g of crust (enough for one 30 em/ 12 in pie or four 11 em/ 41;2 in tarts)
TIME ESTIMATE: 21;2 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 2 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for up to 3 days when refrigerated and 3 months when vacuum sealed and frozen
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: so us vide setup, food processor, almond flour

We tested more than 40 versions of sweet pastry crust (pate sucree) goes well with any tart or pie-although it pairs especially well with
and tart crust (pate sabiee). This recipe combines the advantages velvety custard fillings (see page 181). The recipe is easily adapted
of both kinds of dough and was the best by far. It includes a little to create exciting flavor variations; we've included some of our
almond flour and yields a sweet, delicate, and buttery crust that favorites below.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Egg yolks, blended
All-purpose flour
Unsalted butter,
very cold, diced
Powdered sugar
Almond flour
(Bob's Red Mill brand)
Salt
Baking powder
50g 3Y, Tbsp / 3-4yolks 25% @ Preheat a water bath to 67 · c / 153 • f.
0 Place the yolks in a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the
bag by using the water-d isplacement method (see page 6), and seal it.
® Cook the yolks sous vide for45 minutes.
200g 1Y2 cups 100% 0 Combine in a food processor, and pulse until blended to the texture
165 g :Y., cup 83% of cornmeal.
® Add the cooked egg yolks gradually while processing.
80g 'A cup 40% @ Continue processing in pulses until the dough begins to cohere.
30 g '/a cup 15% 0 Shape the dough into a thick disk, wrap it with plastic, and refrigerate
it for at least 1 hour.
4g ltsp 2% @ Preheat the oven to 190 •c / 375 • f.
2g Y, tsp 1% ® Roll the dough into a circle about 5 cm / 2 in wider than the diameter
of the pie pan. If making smaller tarts, divide the dough into four equal
pieces, and roll out each one separately.
@ Line the pan with the dough; allow excess dough to hang over the edges.
@ Prick the dough all over with a fork, and then cover it with parchment
paper, and fill it with baking beads or dried beans.
@ Bake until golden brown, about 12 minutes for a single piecrust or
8-9 minutes for four smaller tart crusts.
@ Remove the beans and parchment. Bake 2-3 minutes more if needed.
@ Cool to room temperature, and then trim excess crust from the edges.

VARIAT IONS
Double Almond Crust Carrot Crust Raspberry Crust
At step 5, add 2.5 g / :Y., tsp of almond extract. Increase the amount of egg yolks to 63 g / Increase the amount of blended egg yolks
~cup (about 4 yolks). Add 70 g /Ys cup of to 63 g / ~ cup (about 4 yolks). Add 70 g /
Brown Butter Crust
freeze-dried carrot powder at step 4. Ys cup of Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder
At step 4, substitute frozen chunks of brown
(see page 182) at step 4.
butter (see page 37) for half of the unsa lted Cheese Crust
butter. At step 4, add 60 g/ Ys cup of shredded Chocolate Crust
Parmesan cheese, and reduce the amount Increase the amount of blended egg yolks
Gingerbread Crust
of powdered sugar to 20 g / 3 Tbsp. to 68 g/ 4Y2 Tbsp (4-5 yolks). At step 4, add
At step 4, add 53 g/ 6Y2 Tbsp of Autumn Spice
186 g / lYs cups of finely chopped dark choco-
Mix (see page 55). Coconut Crust
late, 80 g/ 8 Tbsp of granu lated sugar, 34 g/
Increase the amount of blended egg yo lks to 3/s cup of Dutch-processed cocoa powder, and
Peanut Crust
63 g / ~ cup, and add 70 g /% cup of coconut
At step 4, substitute finely ground, roasted 2 g / ~ tsp of vanilla extract. Substitute baking
cream powder at step 4.
peanuts for the almond flour, and add soda for the baking powder. At step 12, add
40 g / 3 Tbsp of smooth peanut butter. 1-2 minutes to the baking time. Take extra care
when removing the parchment paper in step 13.

To keep a pie shell crisp, brush a thin coat of melted cocoa butter onto the
interior of the piecrust. and allow the fat to solidify at room temperature
before you fill the shell with pastry cream. The layer of cocoa fat forms a
moisture barrier that prevents the piecrust from getting soggy.

178 MODERNIST CU IS INE AT HOME

1 Preheat a water bath to 67 "C/ 153 "F.

2 Place the egg yo lks in a zi p-top bag. Remove as mu ch a ir as

possible from the bag by using th e water-displacement method
(see page 6), a nd seal it. You can skip this step and the next, but
usi ng raw yo lks will cause the crust to shrink an d tighten more
as it bakes.

3 Cook the egg yo lks so us vid e for 45 minutes.

4 Comb ine the flours, diced butter, powdered sugar, sa lt, a nd baking
powder in a food processor, a nd pulse until the mixture takes on the
texture of co rnmeal.

5 Drizzle in the egg yolks while pulsing the food processor.

6 Conti nu e process ing in pulses until th e dough sta rts to bind. Although
it loo ks very dr y, it will eve ntually co he re.

7 Form the dough into a ball, flatten it to a thick disk, and w rap it tightly
with p lastic wrap. Refrigerate it for at least 1 hour to a llow the gl uten
to rest a nd the butter to harden.

8 Preheat the oven to 190 "C/ 375 "F.

9 Roll the dough into a circle 3 mm /'/a in thick and about 5 cm / 2 in

larger than the pi e pa n. If ma king smaller tart crusts, divide the dough
into fou r equa l pa rts, and roll out each one sepa rately. If the dough
sticks, roll it out between two sheets of p lastic o r parchment, or ch ill
briefly in the refrigerator.

10 line the pan with the dough. Do not trim any excess dough; let
it drape over the edges of the pan. Press the dough firmly into
the interio r edges of the pan. If you will not be baking the crust
immediately, store it in the refrige rator.

11 Prick the dough all over with a fork. Press a protective layer of
parchment paper ove r it. Fill the pan with baking beads or dry
beans, a nd press them against the walls so that the dough does n't
droop whi le baking.

12 Place the ta rt pan on a ba king sheet, and bake the crust until it
turns gold en brown, a bout12 minutes for a si ngle piecrust or
8-9 minutes forfour sma ll e r tart crusts. Rotate the pie a half-turn
midway through baking.

13 Remove the beans and parchment carefu lly. If the crust sti ll looks
slightly wet, bake it for an additiona l2-3 minutes.

14 Coo l the crust to room tem pe rat ure, and then trim any excess crust
from t he margins of the pan .

CUSTARDS AND PIES 179

SOUS VIDE VANILLA-CINNAMON PASTRY CREAM
YIELD: 500 g/2 cupsJzlls one 23 em/9 in pieerust or four 11 em/ 41/2 in tart shells;
halfjzlls one 30 em/ 12 in pieerust
TIME ESTIMATE: 2~ hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 21/2 hours unattended
STORAGE NOTES: keeps for up to 2 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: sous vide setup

Pastry cream, or creme pdtissiere, is the workhorse of custards. Tradi- vide before they are blended into a cream infused with cinnamon
tional recipes for it are heavy on starch, which stabilizes the egg yolk and vanilla. Our approach eliminates the risk of curdling the custard
emulsion but dilutes the taste and coarsens the texture. and also opens up a virtually endless variety of flavor and texture
This recipe dodges those problems by cooking the egg yolks sous combinations, some of which are presented on the next page.

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Heavy cream 100g 110 mL/ Y2 cup 100% 0 Preheat a water bath to 80 •c / 176 •F.
Whole milk 100 g 100 mL / 3/a cup 100% 0 Com bine in a pot, and whisk over med ium-low heat until the suga r
Sugar 64g 5Tbsp 64% and salt dissolve comp lete ly.
Cinnamon stick 3g 1 stick 3% ® Refrigerate for 2 hours .
Vanilla seeds, scraped 1g )4 tsp / from 1 bean 1% 0 Remove and discard the cinnamon stick.
from the bean
Salt 0.3g pinch 0.3%
Egg yolks, blended 200g :Y, cup / 11-12 yolks 200% ® Place in a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag by
and strained using the water-disp lacement method (see page 6), and sea l it.
0 Cook sous vide for 35 minutes.
0 Puree immediately in a blender.
® Add t he infused milk and cream gradually while blending.
Unsalted butter, softened 50 g )4 cup 50% ® In crease the blender speed to high, add the softened butter, and blend
until smooth and creamy.
@ Serve the custard warm or cold.

1 Preheat a water bath to 80 •c / 176 •f.

7 Puree the yolks imm ed iate ly at low speed in a blender. If you cannot
puree the yo lks immediately, be sure to keep them warm, or e lse t he
pastry crea m will become slightly gra iny.
2 Combine the cream, milk, sugar, cinnamon stick, van illa seeds, and
salt in a pot, and whisk over medium-low heat until the sugar a nd sa lt
dissolve completely.
8 Add the mixture of infused milk and cream to the blender gradually
as it continues to run at low speed.

3 Refrigerate the mixture for 2 hours to infuse it with the cinnamon

and vani lla.
9 Increase the blender speed to high, and add the softened butter.
Scrape down the sides of the blender if necessary. Continu e blend -
ing until the mixture becomes smooth and creamy. You can optiona lly
4 Remove and discard the cinnamon stick. Optionally, sieve the liquid
to remove the vanilla seeds . sieve the custard after blending it.

5 Place the blended and strained egg yolks into a zip -top bag, re move
as much air as possible from the bag by using the water-disp lacement
10
method (see page 6), and sea l it.
The custa rd can be se rved warm or cold. It will thicken as it cools.
To prevent a sk in from forming, press plastic wrap directly onto the
custard before storing it.

6 Cook the egg yolks so us vide for 35 minutes. The yo lks wi ll be firm and
fully set after cooking.

Add the gelatin to the mi lk or cream while the liquid is co ld, and then melt
it over medium heat. For more information, see Working with Gelatin,
page175.

180 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

VARIATIONS
Amaretto Pastry Cream
Omit the cinn amon stick and vanilla seeds. At step 8, add 5 g / 6 ml / Y.. tsp
of amaretto liqu eur.

Lemon Pastry Cream

Substitute 7.5 g / 2Y2 Tbsp of grated lemon zest (from 2 lemons) for the
cinnamon stick and van ill a seeds. At step 8, add 4 g of citric acid.

Coconut Pastry Cream

Substitute unsweetened coco nut cream or coco nut milk for the heavy
cream and milk, increase the amount of sugar to 80 g/ Y2 cup, and omit the
cinnamon stick and vanilla seeds. At step 9, use just 20 g / 2 Tbsp of soft,
unsalted butter.

Ginger Pastry Cream

At step 2, om it the cinn amon stick and vanilla seeds, reduce the amount of
sugar to 57 g / SY2 Tbsp, and add 100 g / '/3 cup of minced candied ginger,
0.5 g/ y, tsp of ground ginger powder, and 0.1 g/ Ya tsp of freshly ground
black pepper. At step 4, sieve the infused milk a nd cream mixture before
adding it to the blender.

Cheese Pastry Cream

This savory variation makes an excellent cheese dip or unsweetened filling
for cream puffs. At step 2, omit the sugar, cinnamon stick, and vanilla
seeds, and use an immersion blender to gradually blend 200 g / 2 cups of
shredded Gruyere cheese into the hot milk and cream until it is smooth and
completely melted. Cool the cheese mixture just to room temperature; it
will solidify if refrigerated. Continue at step 5.

Pressure-Infused Coffee Pastry Cream

Pour150 g/ 165 ml / V.. cup of heavy cream and 150 g / 150 ml / '/ 3 cup of
whole milk into a whipping siphon, and add 120 g / lYa cups of whole, dark-
roast coffee beans. Charge the siphon with two cartridges of nitrous oxide,
and then refrigerate it for 4 hours. Release th e pressure on the siphon
slowly; do not dispense the cream . Strain the coffee-i nfu sed c ream into
a saucepan, and then continue with step 1, omitting the cinnamo n stick
and vani ll a seeds. If you do not have a siphon, simply refrigerate the coffee
beans in the co ld liquid for12 hours, stra in, and then continue at step 1.

Chocolate Pastry Cream

Omit the cinnamon stick, vanilla seeds, and butter. At step 2, comb ine
the milk, sugar, and sa lt (but not the cream) with 100 g /o/a cup of finely
chopped dark chocolate and 24 g / Y3 cup of Dutch-processed cocoa
powder in the top of a double boiler. Whisk the mixture over medium
heat until smooth and complete ly melted. Cool the mixture to room
temperature. Continue at step 5. At step 8, blend the choco late mixture
gradua ll y into the cooked egg yolks, and then gradually add the heavy
cream . Add additional cream as needed to adjust the consistency of
the custard.

Firm Pastry Cream

You can make a firmer custard by adding gelatin. Use 1 gofKnox brand
powdered gelatin for eve ry 500 g of pastry cream; the recipe on t he
previous page, for example, yields 500 g, so would require 0.9 g of ge latin .
To soften the gelatin, mix it into an additional20 g / 20 ml / 1Y, Tbsp of co ld
cream or milk, and then warm the mixture over low heat until the gelatin
melts comp lete ly. At step 9, add the melted ge latin mixture along with the
butter. If using as a pie filling, pour the custard into the crust immediately
after step 9, and then refrigerate the pie until fully set, at least3 hours.

CUSTARDS AND PIES 181

PIE TOPPINGS
Our approach to making pies is simple but powerful: we mix
and match different bases and toppings to create myriad deli-
cious combinations. The sweet garnishes described below can
be used to accentuate the pies on the next page or any of the
other desserts in this chapter.

Apple Foam Blowtorch-Caramelized Bananas

Granny Smith apple juice 200 g 200 ml/ % cup Banana, sli ced on the 120g llarge
Powdered gelatin 2.4 g bias 5 mm / \4 in thick
(Knox brand) Sugar 30 g 3Tbsp
Fresh lim e juice to taste
Arrange banana sli ces on a baking sheet, and freeze them until firm, about
Sugar to taste 20 minutes. Sprinkle with one quarter of the sugar. Melt and caramelize
Salt to taste the sugar by using a blowtorch (see page 2). Repeat three times to coat
Measure 20 g / 20 ml / 4 tsp of the cold apple juice in a small dish, and the banana in a layer of dark caramel, returning the bananas to the freezer
sprinkle the gelatin into it. Wait several minutes for the ge latin to soften, as needed to prevent them from softening and starting to cook. Store
a nd then warm the mixture over low heat until the ge latin melts. Add the frozen.
remaining app le juice, and seaso n with fresh lim e juice, sugar, and salt.
The mixture should be intensely flavored. Pour it into a whipping siphon,
a nd charge the si phon with two cartridges of nitrous oxide . For best re-
sults, refrigerate the mixture in the siphon for4 hours before dispensing
the foam. This recipe can be easily adapted to make a foam from virtua ll y
any flavorful fruit juice or other liquid.

Cocoa ib and Cardamom Dust Passion Fruit Glaze

Pulse 20 g /\4 cup of cardamo m seeds in a coffee grinder until the mixture Passion fruit puree 20g 4tsp
resemb les coarse co rnmeal. Add 20 g / 2Y' Tbsp of cocoa nibs, and con- (Perfect Puree of
tinue pulsing until they a re finely ground. Sift th e mixture to remove any Napa Valley brand)
hulls or large pieces. This topping also makes a nice garn ish for lattes and Xanthan gum l.Sg
cappuccinos. Blend together until thickened. You ca n also make the puree from scratch
by passing fresh passion fruit pulp through a sieve.

Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder Caramelized Almonds

Pulse freeze-dried raspberries to a powder in a coffee grind er, food Sliced almonds 50 g y, cup
processor, or blender. Sift to re move any seeds or large pieces. Sugar 25g 2y, Tbsp
Egg white, blended lOg 2Y2tsp
Salt pinch
Preheat the oven to 175 •c / 350 •F. Line a baking sheet with parchment
paper. Thoroughly combine all of the ingredients, and spread them in an
even layer on the parchment. Bake until golden brown, about 6 minutes .
Cool to room temperature, and then break into pi eces. Store in an airtight
container.

182 MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

CREAM PIES
The pie recipes here combine crust, filling, and topping
variations from the preceding pages of this chapter, and then
add a few extra flourishes to create stunning desserts that
are suitable for virtually any menu. First, make the crust indi-
cated; the recipes are on page 178. Next, prepare the filling,
using the instructions on page 180. (Note that you'll need
to double the quantities given there if you're making a large,
App le Cream Pie
Crust: Brown Butter Crust
Filling: So us Vide Vanilla-Cinnamon Pastry Cream
Topping: Top with Apple Foam just before serving.
Ginger Cream Pie
Crust: Gingerbread Crust
Filling: Ginger Pastry Cream
Topping: Top each tart with 15 g / 1 Tbsp of candied ginger (store-bought),
finely minced.
Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie
Crust: Raspberry Crust
Filling: Lemon Pastry Cream or So us Vide Lemon Curd (see page 174)
Topping: Dust with Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder.
Chocolate Cream Pie
Crust: Chocolate Crust
Filling: Chocolate Pastry Cream
Topping: Combine 200 g / 220 mL / 1 cup of whipping cream and
53 g / y, cup of whole, dark-roast coffee beans, and refrigerate for
12 hours to infuse. Strain, and pour the cream into a whipping siphon.
Charge the siphon with two cartridges of nitrous oxide, and dispense
the coffee wh ipp ed cream onto the tarts. Garn ish with Cocoa Nib
and Cardamom Dust.
CUSTARDS AND PIES
30 em / 12 in, pie.) Pour the pastry cream into the baked
crust, and refrigerate the pie until it becomes firm, at least
1 hour. Top the pie with the topping indicated (instructions
are on the previous page) or with whipped cream orfresh fruit.
The topping instructions here assume that you are making
four 11 em I 41/2 in tarts, but they are easily adapted to make
larger pies.
A lm ond and Cherry Cream Pie
Crust: Double Almond Crust
Filling: Amaretto Pastry Cream
Topping: Top each tart with six fresh cherries, halved, and 15 g / 1 Tbsp of
crumbled Carame lized Almonds.
Banana Cream Pie
Crust: Peanut Crust
Filling: 65 g / Y., cup of Pressure-Caramelized Banana Puree (see
page 76), smoothed and then covered with Pressure- Infused Coffee
Pastry Cream
Topping: Top with frozen Blowtorch-Caramelized Bananas just before
serving.
Savory Cheese Pie
Crust: Cheese Crust
Filling: 50 g / Y., cup of Pressure-Caramelized Onions (see page 45),
smoothed and then covered with Cheese Pastry Cream
Topping: Top each tart with 10 g / 2~ Tbsp of cheese bread crumbs
(see page 149), Crispy Shallots (see variation on page 167), a nd
chopped fresh thyme just before serving.
Coconut Cream Pie
Crust: Coconut Crust
Filling: Coconut Pastry Cream
Topping: Smooth the surface of the pastry cream, and then spread
5 g/1 tsp of Passion Fruit Glaze in a thin layer over each tart. Scatter
julienned young coconut over the glaze. For extra crunch, crumb le
toasted , shredded coconut over the tarts just before serving.
183
REFERE NCE TABLES c onver mg Temperat ure
Celsius to Fahrenheit Fahrenheit to Celsius
(' C) (' F) (' F) (' C)

Converting Temperature 28 82.4 28 - 2.2

29 84.2 29 - 1.7
To convert temperatures from Celsius to
Fahrenheit, multiply byl.8, and then add 32 30 86.0 30 - 1.1
to the product. 31 87.8 31 - 0.6
To convert from Fahrenheit to Celsius, subtract 32 89.6 32 0.0
32, and then multiply the result by 5/9 (0.56). 33 91.4 33 0.6
Celsius to Fahrenheit Fahrenheit to Celsius 34 93.2 34 1.1
(' C) (' F) (' F) (' C) 35 95.0 35 1.7
-196.0 - 320.8 - 200.0 - 128.9 36 96.8 36 2.2
- 78.5 -109.3 - 80.0 - 62.2 37 98.6 37 2.8
- 60.0 - 76.0 - 60.0 - 51.1 38 100.4 38 3.3
- 40 .0 - 40.0 - 40.0 - 40.0 39 102.2 39 3.9
- 20.0 - 4.0 - 20.0 - 28.9 40 104.0 40 4.4
0 32.0 0 -17.8 41 105.8 41 5.0
1 33.8 1 -17.2 42 107.6 42 5.6
2 35.6 2 -16.7 43 109.4 43 6.1
3 37.4 3 -16.1 44 111.2 44 6.7
4 39.2 4 -15.6 45 113.0 45 7.2
5 41.0 5 -15.0 46 114.8 46 7.8
6 42.8 6 -14.4 47 116.6 47 8.3
7 44.6 7 -13.9 48 118.4 48 8.9
8 46.4 8 -13.3 49 120.2 49 9.4
9 48.2 9 - 12.8 50 122.0 50 10.0
10 50.0 10 - 12.2 51 123.8 51 10.6
11 51.8 11 -11.7 52 125.6 52 11.1
12 53.6 12 - 11.1 53 127.4 53 11.7
13 55.4 13 -10.6 54 129.2 54 12.2
14 57.2 14 - 10.0 55 131.0 55 12.8
15 59.0 15 - 9.4 56 132.8 56 13.3
16 60.8 16 - 8.9 57 134.6 57 13.9
17 62.6 17 - 8.3 58 136.4 58 14.4
18 64.4 18 - 7.8 59 138.2 59 15.0
19 66 .2 19 - 7.2 60 140.0 60 15.6
20 68 .0 20 - 6.7 61 141.8 61 16.1
21 69 .8 21 - 6.1 62 143.6 62 16.7
22 71.6 22 - 5.6 63 145.4 63 17.2
23 73.4 23 - 5.0 64 147.2 64 17.8
24 75.2 24 - 4.4 65 149.0 65 18.3
25 77.0 25 - 3.9 66 150.8 66 18.9
26 78.8 26 - 3.3 67 152.6 67 19.4
27 80.6 27 - 2.8 68 154.4 68 20.0

184
c onvertmg Temperature converf mg Temperat ure
Celsius to Fahrenheit Fahrenheit to Celsius Celsius to Fahrenheit Fahrenheit to Celsius
(• c) (• F) (• F) (• c) (•c) (• F) (• F) (• c)

69 156.2 69 20.6 125 257 125 51.7

70 158.0 70 21.1 130 266 130 54.4
71 159.8 71 21.7 135 275 135 57.2
72 161.6 72 22.2 140 284 140 60.0
73 163.4 73 22.8 145 293 145 62.8
74 165.2 74 23.3 150 302 150 65.6
75 167.0 75 23.9 155 311 155 68.3
76 168.8 76 24.4 160 320 160 71.1
77 170.6 77 25.0 165 329 165 73.9
78 172.4 78 25.6 170 338 170 76.7
79 174.2 79 26.1 175 347 175 79.4
80 176.0 80 26.7 180 356 180 82.2
81 177.8 81 27.2 185 365 185 85.0
82 179.6 82 27.8 190 374 190 87.8
83 181.4 83 28.3 195 383 195 90.6
84 183.2 84 28.9 200 392 200 93.3
85 185.0 85 29.4 205 401 205 96.1
86 186.8 86 30.0 210 410 210 98.9
87 188.6 87 30.6 215 419 215 101.7
88 190.4 88 31.1 220 428 220 104.4
89 192.2 89 31.7 225 437 225 107.2
90 194.0 90 32.2 230 446 230 110.0

91 195.8 91 32.8 235 455 235 112.8

92 197.6 92 33.3 240 464 240 115.6

93 199.4 93 33.9 245 473 245 118.3

94 201.2 94 34.4 250 482 250 121.1

95 203.0 95 35.0 255 491 255 123.9

96 204.8 96 35.6 260 500 260 126.7

97 206.6 97 36.1 265 509 265 129.4

98 208.4 98 36.7 270 518 270 132.2

99 210.2 99 37.2 275 527 275 135.0

100 212 100 37.8 280 536 280 137.8
105 221 105 40.6 285 545 285 140.6
110 230 110 43.3 290 554 290 143.3
115 239 115 46.1 295 563 295 146.1
120 248 120 48.9 300 572 300 148.9

185
 Converting Weights Converting Weights
To convert we ights from grams to Gram s to ounces Ounces to grams
ounces, divide by 28.35. To convert (g) (oz) (oz) (g)
from ounces to grams, multiply by
45 1.587 45 1,275.8
28.35.
50 1.764 50 1,417.5
Grams to ounces Ounces to g rams
55 1.940 55 1,559.3
(g) (oz) (oz) (g)
60 2.116 60 1,701.0
0.1 0.004 0.1 2.8
65 2.293 65 1,842.8
0.2 0.007 0.2 5.7
70 2.469 70 1,984.5
0.3 0.011 0.3 8.5
75 2.646 75 2,126.3
0.4 0.014 0.4 11.3
80 2.822 80 2,268.0
0 .5 0.018 0.5 14.2
85 2.998 85 2,409.8
0.6 0.021 0.6 17.0
90 3.1 75 90 2,551 .5
0.7 0 .025 0.7 19.8
95 3.351 95 2,693.3
0.8 0.028 0.8 22.7
100 3.527 100 2,835.0
0.9 0.032 0.9 25.5
110 3.880 110 3,118.5
1 0.035 1 28.4
120 4.233 120 3,402.0
2 0 .071 2 56.7
130 4.586 130 3,685.5
3 0.106 3 85.1
140 4.938 140 3,969.0
4 0.141 4 113.4
150 5.291 150 4,252.5
5 0.176 5 141 .8
160 5.644 160 4,536.0
6 0.212 6 170.1
170 5.996 170 4,819.5
7 0.247 7 198.5
180 6.349 180 5,103.0
8 0 .282 8 226.8
190 6.702 190 5,386.5
9 0.317 9 255.2
200 7.055 200 5,670.0
10 0.353 10 283.5
250 8.818 250 7,087.5
11 0.388 11 311.9
300 10.582 300 8,505.0
12 0.423 12 340.2
350 12.346 350 9,922.5
13 0.459 13 368.6
400 14.109 400 11,340.0
14 0.494 14 396.9
450 15.873 450 12,757.5
15 0.529 15 425.3
500 17.637 500 14,175.0
16 0 .564 16 453.6
550 19.400 550 15,592.5
17 0.600 17 482.0
600 21.164 600 17,010.0
18 0.635 18 510.3
650 22.928 650 18,427.5
19 0.670 19 538.7
700 24.691 700 19,845.0
20 0.705 20 567.0
750 26.455 750 21 ,262.5
21 0.741 21 595.4
800 28 .219 800 22,680.0
22 0.776 22 623.7
850 29.982 850 24,097.5
23 0.811 23 652.1
900 31.746 900 25,515.0
24 0 .847 24 680.4
950 33.510 950 26,932.5
25 0.882 25 708.8
1,000 35.273 1,000 28,350.0
30 1.058 30 850.5
1 pound = 453.59 g / 16 oz; 1 kg = 2.2 lb
35 1.235 35 992.3
40 1.411 40 1,134.0

186
Common Conversion Factors Common Conversion Factors
To co nve rt from: To : Multiply by: To co nvert from: To : Multiply by:

ml tsp 0.203 kcal J 4,184

tsp ml 4.93 J kcal 0.000

ml Tbsp 0.068 w BTU/ h 0.001

Tbsp ml 14.787 BTU/ h w 1,055.04

ml cup 0 .004 w hp 0.001

cup ml 236.59 hp w 745.7

tsp cup 0.021 g/cm 3 oz/ in 3 0.578

3 3
cup tsp 48 oz/ in g/cm 1.73

Tbsp cup 0.063 N lb fo rce 0.225

cup Tbsp 16 lb force N 4.482

ml oz 0.034 mbar torr 0.75

oz ml 29.574 torr mbar 1.333

pint qt 0.5 mbar psi 0.015

qt pint 2 psi mbar 68.95

qt ga l 0.25 bar psi 14.5

gal qt 4 psi bar 0.069

qt L 0.946 Pa mbar 0.01

L qt 1.057 mbar Pa 100

L gal 0.264 bar atm 0.987

gal L 3.785 atm bar 1.013

oz lb 0.063
lb oz 16 Converting Volume Measures
g oz 0.035 Metric u.s. Imperi a l
oz g 28.35 (ml) (pint) (fl oz)
g lb 0.002 5 1 tsp 'A
lb g 453.592 10 2 tsp y,
oz kg 0.028 15 1 Tbsp y,
kg oz 35.274
20 4tsp 'I•
lb kg 0.454
30 2 Tbsp 1
kg lb 2.2
60 'A cup 2Ya
mm in 0.394
90 y, cup Y• 3Ya
in mm 25.4
120 y, cup 'A 4 'A
em in 0.394
150 5/a cup 'A 5 'A
in em 2.54
180 ~ c up y, 6Y,
m ft 3.3
240 1 cup 'Ia 8Y,
ft m 0 .305
300 1'A cups y, 10Y,
s min 0.017
480 2 cu ps 7'• 17
J BTU 0.001
600 2Y' cups 1 21
BTU J 1,055.10
1,000 4'A cups 1'/4 35
kcal BTU 3.966
BTU kcal 0.252

187
Converting Grams to Volum e for Common Ingredients

You can use th e table below to calculate the approximate
volume equivalent of a certain weight of an ingredient. For thin
liquids, multiply the number of ml in the rightmost column by
the number of grams to obtain the number of milliliters (ml).
For example, 75 g of vinegar is about 75 x 1.16 ~ 87 ml.
It is important to understand, however, that all of the recipes
in this book were developed and tested by weighing the in-
gredients. We did not use volume measurements, for good
reason: even when using calibrated spoon and cup measures,
it is nearly impossible to measure volumes with precision and
accuracy. How finely the food is chopped, how firmly it is
packed, how rounding was done to get to the nearest common
fraction-these factors and others routinely throw off volume
measurements by up to 15%, enough to dimin ish the quality of
some recipes. So we urge you to do as we do, and weigh your
ingredients when cooking from this book.
That said, we recognize that measuring volumes is often
faster and is in any case common practice, so we converted
our weights to volumes-except for certain ingredients, such
as emulsifiers or gelling agents, where the inherent imprecision
of volume measurement can ruin a recipe. To make these vol-
umes as precise as possible, we calculated the volumes of thin
liquids from their densities. For thi ck liquids and dry ingre-
dients, we scooped the ingredient and then leveled it with
a straight edge. All volumes have been rounded to the near-
est measures that are available from kitchen-supply stores,
including half tablespoons, thirds or eighths of cups, and
eighths of teaspoons. Metric volumes were rounded to the
nearest 1 ml for volumes up to 10 ml, to 5 ml for volumes
up to 100 ml, and to the nearest 10 ml or 25 ml above that.
Due to the effects of rounding, you may notice that, say,
20 ml is paired with 3V2 tsp in one recipe, but in another the
volume given is 20 ml / 1V2 Tbsp. That can happen if the con-
version from the weight resulted in 17.7 ml (rounded to 20 ml)
in the first case but produced 22.2 ml (also rounded to 20 ml)
in the second. When converted to spoon measures, 17.7 ml
and 22.2 ml yield different equivalents.
If you see 4 Tbsp given for a dry ingredient and wonder why
we did not simply write 1,4 cup, it is because the two are not
actually the same for ingredients, such as flours, that become
packed down at greater volumes. Try it yourself: measure 1,4 cup
of flour, and then remove four level tablespoons, one at a time.
You ' ll find that there is still flour left in the cup measure when
you are done. To avoid such complexity, weigh the ingredients.

COMMON LIQUIDS 1g 5g 25 g 100 g 450 g Equivalents

Water, stock, broth, and jus 1 ml /Y.. tsp 5 ml / 1 tsp 25 ml / 5 tsp 100ml/'/o cup 450 ml /2 cups 1 g =l.O ml
Wine, vermouth, sake, and beer 1 ml / Y.. tsp 5 ml / 1 tsp 25 ml / 5 tsp 100ml/'/o cup 450 ml / 2 cups 1 g =l.O ml
Thin fruit and vegetable juices, 1 ml / Y.. tsp 5 ml / 1 tsp 25 ml / 5 tsp 100ml/'/o cup 450 ml / 2 cups 1 g =1.0 ml
such as apple, lemon, and carrot
Vinegars 1 ml / Y.. tsp 6 ml / 1 tsp 30 ml / 2 Tbsp 120 mL /Y2 cup 525 ml/2\4 cups 1 g =1.16 ml
liquor, such as bourbon or vodka 1 ml /\4 tsp 6 ml / 1Y, tsp 30 ml /2 Tbsp 125 ml / y, cup 560 ml / 2'/8 cups 1g =l.25ml
Soy sauce, fish sauce 1 ml /\4 tsp 4 ml /'\4 tsp 20 ml / 4\4 tsp 85 mL /Y' cup 380 ml / 1'/• cups 1 g =0.84 ml
Purees and thick vegetable juices 1 ml / Y.. tsp 5 ml / 1 tsp 30 ml / 5 tsp 110 mL /Y2 cup 490 ml / 2 cups
OILS AND FATS
Refined oils, such canola, soy, 1 mL /Y.. tsp 5 ml / 1 tsp 25 ml / 2Tbsp 110 ml / y, cup 490 ml / 2 cups 1 g =l.08 ml
vegetable, and corn oil
Cold-pressed oils, such as olive, 1 ml / \4 tsp 6 ml / 1'14 tsp 30 ml / 2 Tbsp 110 mL /Y2 cup 500 ml / 2Y• cups 1 g =1.11 ml
grapeseed, nut, and sesame oil
Melted fats and butters 1 ml / \4 tsp 6 ml / 1'14 tsp 30 ml / 2 Tbsp 110ml / Y2Cup 500 ml / 2Y• cups 1 g =1.11 ml
Solid fats and butters \4 tsp 1V2 tsp 2Y2 Tbsp y, cup 2 cups 1Tbsp =15 g

188
DAIRY PRODUCTS 1g 5g 25 g 100 g 450 g Equivalents
Whole milk 1 ml / Y. tsp 5 ml / 1 tsp 25 ml / 2 Tbsp 100 ml /'/s cup 460 ml / 2 cups 1 g =1.03 ml
Heavy cream 1 ml / Y. tsp 6 ml / 1Y. tsp 30 ml / 2Tbsp 110 ml /Yz cup 495 ml / 2 cups 1 g =l.l ml
Creme fniiche, sour cream 1Y. tsp 2Tbsp 'Is cup 1Yz cups
Dry cheeses, such as Parmesan 5 tsp 6 Tbsp 2 cups 7 cups 1 cup =60 g
and Romano, finely grated and
packed
Semisoft cheeses, such as 1 Tbsp y, cup 1YJ cup 6Yz cups 1 cup =67 g
Gruyere, cheddar, and Gouda,
shredded
Soft cheeses, such as cream ltsp 5 tsp y, cup 1Yz cups 1 cup =230 g
cheese, mascarpone, and chevre
Dry cheeses, such as blue cheese y, Tbsp 2Yz Tbsp :Y.. cup 3')4 cups 1cup =115g
and feta, finely crumbled
EGGS (chicken, U.S. size large)
Whole eggs, blended 1Y. tsp 1Yz Tbsp 7Tbsp 45 g each
Egg whites, blended 1Y. tsp 1Yz Tbsp 7Tbsp 30 g each
Egg yolks, blended 1Y. tsp 1Yz Tbsp 6 Yz Tbsp 15 g each
PANTRY ITEMS (scoop to fill the measure, and then level it by using a straightedge)
Salt, kosher ("salt" in our recipes) Y. tsp 1Y. tsp 2Yz Tbsp 1tsp =4g
Salt, fine sea salt Y. tsp /.t tsp
3 5 tsp ltsp =5.5 g
Sugar, granulated white Y. tsp y, Tbsp 2Yz Tbsp y, cup 2'/s cups 1 cup =202 g
Sugar, powdered y, tsp 2Yz tsp 4 Tbsp 1 cup
Sugar, grated palm 2 tsp 3 Tbsp :Y.. cup
Finely ground spices, such as y, tsp 2Yz tsp 3Tbsp 1 tsp =2g
cinnamon, coriander, and
paprika
Chili flakes y, tsp 1 Tbsp 5 Tbsp 1 tsp =2.25 g
Vanilla seeds, scraped from 1g
1 large, moist bean
All-purpose flour 1 Tbsp 4 Tbsp :Y.. cup 3Ya cups 1 cup =llS g
00 wheat flour 2 tsp 3 Tbsp :Y.. cup 3Yz cups
Whole wheat flour 2Yz tsp 3 Tbsp :Y.. cup 3Ya cups
Masa harina 2 tsp 3 Tbsp :Y.. cup 3Yz cups 1 cup =130 g
Wondra 1Yz tsp 3Yz Tbsp :Y.. cup 1 Tbsp =10 g
Vital wheat gluten 1 Tbsp 4 Tbsp :y.. cup llbsp =S g
Baking soda Y. tsp 1 tsp 1Yz Tbsp 1 tsp =Sg
Gelatin, Knox's powdered Y. tsp 1Y. tsp 1envelope =7g
Gelatin sheets, silver (160 Bloom) 1 sheet =2.5 g
Yeast, instant dry Y. tsp 1Y. tsp 5 tsp 1 envelope =7 g
Whole coffee beans 9-12 beans 1 Tbsp y, cup lYz cups 1cup =67g
Dry macaroni, small elbow /.t cup
3 33,4 cups 1cup =125g
Coarse-ground cornmeal, 2Yz Tbsp o/a cup 3 cups 1cup =164g
polenta, and corn grits

189
PANTRY ITEMS, continued 1g 5g 25 g 100 g 450 g Equivalents
Panko bread crumbs 1y, Tbsp y, cup 2 cups 1 cup =76g
Short grain rice, such as Arborio, y, cup 23/a cups 1 cup =200 g
bomba, brown rice
Whole grains, such as barley and y, cup 2Y' cups 1 cup =200g
farro
Small grains, such as quinoa and y, cup 25/a cups
steel-cut oats
Whole dried beans, such as y, cup 2Y' cups 1 cup =200 g
garbanzo, pinto, and black beans
Dried lentils y, cup 2\4 cups
Chopped nuts 2y, Tbsp /4 cup
3

Nut butters, such as pistachio, ltsp 5 tsp Y, cup 1 cup =240 g

almond, and macadamia
Tomato paste ltsp 5 tsp YJcup
Honey ltsp 4tsp YJcup
Syrup, such as maple or agave ltsp 1Y2 Tbsp YJcup 1 cup=310 g
Dijon mustard 1\4 tsp 2Tbsp /a cup
3

Ketchup ltsp 2 Tbsp y,cup

Mayo nnai se 1Y' tsp 2Tbsp y, cu p
FRUITS AN D VEGETABLES
Parsley leaves y, cup 2 cups 1 sprig =3 g
Basil leaves \4 cup 1~ cups 1 sp rig =2g
Chives, minced 2 Tbsp :Y., cup 1 chive=0.3g
large-leaf herbs, such as parsley, ltsp 5 tsp 6 Tbsp 1 sp rig= 2.5 g
basi l, cilantro, and tarragon,
minced
Sm a ll-l eaved herbs, such as ltsp 5 tsp y, cup 1 sprig= 1 g
thyme and rosemary, minced
Fresh bay leaf 11eaf=0.2 g
Citrus zest, finely grated with ltsp \4 cup 1 le mo n =2.5 g
a Microplane
Fres h ja lapeno 2Y' Tbsp 1 pepper =30 g
Onion, small dice 2 tsp 3 Tbsp :Y., cup 3y, cups
Onion, thinly sliced (2 mm) \4 cup 1 cup 4 cups
Onion, grated ltsp 1y, Tbsp y, cup 2 2/J cups
Shallots, finely minced 2 tsp 3 Tbsp 7'a cup
Shallots, thinly sliced (1 mm) \4 cup 1 cup
leeks, thinly slice d (2 mm) ¥a cup 1Y' cups
leeks, diced (6 mm) 1 Tbsp 5 Tbsp 1 cup
Garlic clove, peeled, 1clove=3g
average size
Garlic, thinly sliced (1 mm) 1 Tbsp 5 Tbsp 1 cup
Garlic, minced \4 tsp 2 tsp 3 Tbsp

19 0
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES,
continued 1g 5g 25 g 100 g 450 g Equivalents

Ginger, sliced into coins (4 mm) 1coin =3 g

Ginger, peeled and minced ',4 tsp 2 tsp 3 Tbsp

Carrots, thinly sliced (2 mm) ',4 cup 1 cup 4',4 cups

Cauliflower or broccoli, ',4 cup 1 cup 4Y2 cups 1 head=500 g

small florets
Celery, thinly sliced (2 mm) ',4 cup 1 cup

Corn kernels 2V2Tbsp o/o cup 3 cups 1 ear=140 g of

kern els

Mushrooms, fresh button, ',4 cup 1 cup 4y, cups 1 mushroom =

minced 20g

Mushrooms, fresh shiitake caps, Y2cup 2 cups 10 cups

sliced (6 mm)
Scallions, whole trimmed 1 sca llion =15 g

Scallions, green parts only, thinly 1Y' Tbsp y, cup

sliced (1 mm)

Scallions, white parts only, thinly 2y, tsp ',4 cup

sliced (1 mm)
Fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded, 5 tsp y, cup 1Y2 cu ps
and diced
Canned tomatoes, crushed 5 tsp YJcup U'a cups

191
SOURCE S
Scientific Ingredients
Ingredient local Sourcing North America Europe Notes
agar (agar agar) widely availab le at Asian and chefrubber.com msk-ingredients.com Powder or granules are preferred.
specialty food markets, hea lth-food le-sanctuaire.com infusions4chefs.co.uk Flakes or strips can be ground
stores, gourmet supermarkets iherb.com so legraells.co m into powder. Avoid co lored sticks
and sweetened agar dessert
powders .
albumin powder widely availab le at superma rkets, kingarthurflour.com sosa.cat Pure albumin is preferred.
(powdered egg whites, health-food stores, cake decorating chefrubber.com infusions4chefs.co. u k
egg white powder, and craft shops lepicerie.com solegraells.com
meringue powder) modernistpantry.com

calcium chloride often avai lab le where pickling or chefrubber.com solegraells.com Powder or granules are preferred.
(Pickle Crisp: Ball cheese-making supplies are sold; cheesemaking.com infusions4chefs.co. u k liquid is ava ilable from cheese-
brand; Calcic: ask local cheese makers bulkfoods.com msk-ingredients.com making suppliers. Calcium lactate
Texturas brand) and calcium lactate glu co nate
work sim il arly.

carrageenan modernistpantry.com so legraells.co m Iota type creates soft, elastic gels.

chefrubber.com infusions4chefs.co. u k Kappa type creates firm, brittle
le-sanctuaire.co m gels. lambda type thickens
without gelling.
citric acid widely avai la ble at gourmet/ chefrubber.com infusions4chefs.co. u k
(sour salt) specialty food stores, health- lepicerie.com msk-ingredients.com
food and supplem ent stores, and le-san ctuaire.com solegraells.com
where kosher foods and canning/ iherb.com
preserving supplies are sold
diastatic malt powder widely avai lab le; ask at bakeries kingarthurflour.com Products labe led nondiastatic
(diastatic malt enzyme, and brewing-supply stores chefrubber.com have no active enzymes and are
diastatic malt flour) used for flavoring only. Brewers
measure e nzyme strength in
degrees Lintner (' l).
essential oils widely avai lable at herbal and essentialoil.com solegraells.com Organic, 100% pure, and
natural med icine shops; ask at pastry iherb.com sosa.cat food-grade oils are preferred.
shops, spas, aromatherapists, and lep icerie.co m
soap makers

freeze-dried fruits widely ava il ab le at supermarkets, chefrubber.com infusions4chefs.co.uk Buy whole fruits and vegetables
and vegetables health-food stores, and outlets justtomatoes.com lyofood.co m and grind into powd e rs as
selling survival goods; check at lepiceri e.com sosa.cat need ed for best resu lts. Spray-
camping and outdoor stores dried juice powders are also
useful, but often contain add i-
tiona! ingredie nts and may not
be as flavorful.
gelatin Knox's insta nt gelatin is available at chefrubber.com infusions4chefs.co.uk Strengths vary greatly. Knox's
supermarkets. Sheet gelatin can be modernistpantry.co m msk-ingredients.com instant gelatin and silver sheets
found at specialty food markets and pastrychef.com sosa.cat (160 Bloom) are most common.
import stores; ask at pastry shops Industrial strength gelatins and
and bakeries, and co nfirm the Bloom gelatins mad e specifically for
strength befo re using fish, beef, or pork are sold by
chefrubber.com.
honey powder widely available at Asian markets and chefrubber.com Honey powders may include
(powdered honey, health-food stores modernistpantry.com cane juice, agave syrup, and
honey granules) stabilizers. Check the label if
you have a preference.

192
Ingredient local Sourcing North America Europe Notes
lnsta Cure #1 widely available where sausage- sausagemaker.com lnsta Cure #2 contains additional
(Prague powder#l) making supplies are sold; also try sodium nitrate and should not be
sporting goods/ outdoor stores that used as a substitution.
cater to hunters, or ask your butcher

liquid soy lecithin avai lable at health-food stores and iherb.com Do not confuse with powdered
some soap- and candle-making lepicerie.com soy lecithin or lecithin powders
suppliers modernistpantry.com used for making light foams.

malic acid ask at brewing- and wine-making lepicerie.com infusions4chefs.co.u k Avoid capsules and tablets, as
supply stores; also try health-food modernistpantry.com they often include additional,
and supplement stores. chefrubber.com unnecessary ingredients.

sodium citrate le-sanctuaire.com infusions4chefs.co.u k

(Citras: Texturas modernistpantry.com
brand) chefrubber.com

specialty flours and widely ava ilable at gourmet super-
starches markets, international markets, and
natural foods stores
bobsredmill.com toutelabio.com The terms flour and starch are
kingarthurflour.com often used interchangeably, but
the products can differ greatly.
Review ingredients listed on the
packaging for clarification.

tapioca maltodextrin modernistpantry.com msk-ingredients.com Sold as fine, very light flakes or

(N-Zorbit: National lepicerie.com powder. Tapioca maltodextrin is
Starch brand) le-sanctuaire.com different from tapioca starch and
maltodextrin.

Ultra-Sperse 3 modernistpantry.com
willpowder.com
le-sanctuaire.com

vital wheat gluten availab le at supermarkets and bobsredmill.com toutelabio.com

health-food stores; ask at bakeries kingarthurflour.com
a nd vegetarian restaurants

whey protein isolate ava ilab le at health-food and ih erb.com Most common ly so ld in large
supplement stores, and at stores bulkfoods.com tubs. Avoid flavored or sweet-
specializing in sports nutrition ened whey protein powders or
pure powdered whey.

Wondra widely availab le at supermarkets Avoid instant thickening flours

(Robin Hood Easy or "gravy granules" made of
Blend flour) potato starch; they are not
interchangeable.

xanthan gum widely ava ilable at natural foods bobsredmill.com infusions4chefs.co.uk Always measure carefully to
(Xantana: Texturas markets and health-food stores chefrubber.com msk-ingredients.com avoid gumminess.
brand; Bob's Red Mill ih erb.com
brand)

193
Where to Buy Meat
Purveyor Address Phone Website Products
Heritage Meats 18241 Pendleton St. SW 360-273-2202 heritagemeatswa.com beef, veal
Rochester, WA 98579
Kapowsin Meats, Inc. 29401118th Ave. E 253-847-1777 pork
Graham, WA 98338
Mad Hatcher Farms 1437 DSt.SW 509-237-1351 poularde, pigeon, rabbit
Ephrata, WA 98823
Stokesberry Sustainable 7429 85th LaneSE 360-485-2558 stokesberrysustainablefarm.com chickens, roosters
Farm Olympia, WA 98513

Zoe's Meats Petaluma, CA 94952 707-763-9637 zoesmeats.com meats

Where to Buy Seafood

Purveyor
Browne Trading Company
Taylor Shellfish Farms, Inc.
True World Foods
Address Phone Website Products
Merrill's Wharf 800-944-7848 brownetrading.com caviar, other seafood
260 Commercial St.
Portland, ME 04101
130 SE Lynch Rd. 360-426-6178 taylorshellfishfarms.com shellfish, geoduck
Shelton, WA 98584
24 Link Dr. 201-750-0024 trueworldfoods.com shellfish, sashimi-grade fish ,
Rocke leigh, NJ 07647 other seafood

Where to Buy Produce

Purveyor Address Phone Website Products
The Chef's Garden 9009 Huron-Avery Rd. 800-289-4644 chefs-garden.com micro greens
Huron, OH 44839

Foraged & Found Edibles 866-951-1031 foragedandfoundedibles.com foraged mushrooms, other

produce
Full Circle Farm 31904 NE Eighth St. 425-333-4677 fullcircle.com organic produce
Carnation, WA 98014
Mikuni Wild Harvest 866-862-9866 mikuniwildharvest.com foraged mushrooms, other
produce, fish and seafood,
oils and vinegars, truffles
Sun Grown Organic San Diego, CA 800-995-7776 sungrownorganics.com micro greens
Distributors

Where to Buy Spices and Seasonings

Purveyor Address Phone Website Products
l ' Epicerie 106 Ferris St. 866-350-7575 lepicerie.com salts, vinegars, essential oils
Brooklyn, NY 11231
HMart various locations 800-648-0980 hmart.com Korean and international in-
gredients and specialty foods
My Spice Sage 5774 Mosholu Ave. 877-890-5244 myspicesage.com herbs, spices, and tea
Bronx, NY 10471
Penzeys 12001 W. Capitol Drive 800-741-7787 penzeys.com herbs, spices, and spice
Wauwatusa, WI 53222 mixes

194
INDEX

A
Achiote Paste, 96
almonds (continued)
Mughal Curry Sauce, 26-27
in Lamb Curry, 104
in Pressure· Cooked Lamb Shanks, 104
Spinach Pesta, 23
aromas
of shellfish, 128
of sourdough, 138
Aromat ic Chicken Broth, 120
in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119
in Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 94 Alsatian Omelet Filling, 57 Aromatic Microwaved Cod, 163
acids, in marinades, 51 Amaretto Pastry Cream, 181 artichokes
Aerated Blue Cheese Sauce, 117 in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 183 Artichoke Soup, 76
aerolatte amchoor, Chaat Masala, 53 Farro with Chicken, Artichokes, and Black Olives,
Clams in Chowder Sauce, 134 anardana, Chaat Masala, 53 ISS
variations, 134 anchovy fillets, white, in Napolitana Pizza, 140 arugula
Oyster Stew, 134 animal fats, viii Capicola Pizza, 143
Pistachio Clam Chowder, 134 annatto seeds, Achiote Paste, 96 in Green Salad with Romaine Dressing, 70
South of France Chowder, 134 in Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 94 Pizza Cruda, 143
agar apple cider vinegar Asian fish sauce. See fish sauce
for gels and fluid gels, 21 Barbecue Marinade, 51 asparagus, Quinoa with Pistachio Pesto and Asparagus,
Onion Fluid Gel, 21 Pressure-Cooked Pickled Mustard Seeds, 43 ISS
variation, 21 in Honey Mustard Sauce, 115 Autumn Flavors Bok Choy, 162
Strawberry Panna Cotta, 67 Apple Cream Pie, 182, 183 Autumn Spice Mix, 55
Vegetarian Panna Cotta, 175 Apple Foam, 182 in Gingerbread Crust, 178
agave nectar/ syrup in Apple Cream Pie, 183 avocado oil
Cilantro Vinaigrette, 35 applejack/apple brandy, Pork Shoulder Fricassee with smoke point of, ix
Pressure-Caramelized Ketchup, 30 Apples and Morels, 95 in Sous Vide Tuna Confit, 73
in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91 apple juice
Spiced Chili Dressing, 35 Apple Foam, 182
Aged White Cheddar Cheese Slice, ISO in Apple Cream Pie, 183
in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples, Kalbi Marinade, 51
ISO Pork Shoulder Fricassee with Apples and Morels, 95
Aioli,25 Pressure· Infused Celery, 49
ajowan seeds, Chaat Masala, 53 Strawberry Juice with Green Apple Foam, 67
albumin powder Sweet Brine for Meats, SO
Striped Mushroom Omelet, 60-61 Vacuum-Infused Celery, 49
Ultrafrothy Milk Shake, 89 in Lobster Roll, 130-131
almond butter, Almond Flavoring, 171 variation, 49
almond flour in Waldorf Salad, 49
Brown Butter Crust, 178 apples
in Apple Cream Pie, 183 Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples,
Carrot Crust, 178 ISO
Cheese Crust, 178 Apple and Parsnip Soup, 76
in Savory Cheese Pie, 183 Autumn Flavors Bok Choy, 162
Chocolate Crust, 178 Barley Salad, 78
in Chocolate Cream Pie, 183 Fruit Leather, 47
Coconut Crust, 178 Grilled Applesauce, 42
in Coconut Cream Pie, 183 in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with
Double Almond Crust, 178 Apples, ISO
in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie1 183 Mac and Cheddar, 148
Flaky Pie Crust, 178-179 in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 48
variations1 178 Waldorf Salad, 49
Gingerbread Crust 1 178 apricots, Fruit Leather, 47
in Ginger Cream Pie, 183 Arborio rice
Raspberry Crust, 178 Arborio Rice with Caramelized Squash and Saffron,
almond oil 154
smoke point of1 ix Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin and Cocoa, 155
Spinach Pesta, 23 cooking and parcooking times for, 151
almonds Pressure-Cooked Risotto, 152
Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 183 Vegetable Risotto, 152
Caramelized Almonds, 182 variation, 152
in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 183 argan oil, ix

195
 BABY BOK CHOY
B
baby bok choy. See bok choy, baby
beans (continued)
garbanzo
Pressure-Cooked Chickpea Salad, 72
in Refried Bean Foam, 97
gigante, in Refried Bean Foam, 97
bacon green, in Broccoli with Cheese Sauce1 144
Bacon Brown Sugar Infusion, 171 lima, in Refried Bean Foam, 97
Bacon Mayonnaise, 25 pinto. See pinto beans, dried
in Microwaved Potato Salad, 162 beef
in Pork Belly B.L.T., 102-103 bavette. See beefhanger steak
in Smoked Bacon B.L.T., 102 bavette de flanchet. See beef flank steak
Mushroom Jus, 15 beauty steak. See beef rib eye steak
in Cream of Mushroom Soup, 63 bife de vacio. See beef flank steak
in Mushroom Puree, 63 brisket, best bets for cooking, 99
in Mushroom Soup, 76 butcher's steak. See beef hanger steak
Raviolo Omelet Filling, 57 Chateaubriand. See beef, filet
Smoked Bacon B.L.T., 102 chuck. See beef chuck
Bain-Marie Creme BrUiee, 172 Delmonico steak. See beef rib eye steak
Baked Fish Skin Chips, 126 entrecOte. See beef rib eye steak
Baked Mac and Cheese, 146-147 filet
baking soda best bets for hamburger patties, 87
Apple and Parsnip Puree, 76 Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter, 118
Artichoke Puree, 76 filet mignon roast. See beef, filet
Bell Pepper Puree, 76 flank steak. See beef flank steak
Caramelized Carrot Soup, 75 flanken ribs. See beef short ribs
Cauliflower Puree, 76 flatiron steak. See beef flatiron steak
Corn Puree, 76 ground. See beef, ground
Dried Caramelized Onions, 45 hanging tender. See beef hanger steak
French Onion Soup, 45 hanging tenderloin. See beef hanger steak
Leek and Onion Puree, 76 London broil. See beef flank steak
Mushroom Puree, 76 market steak. See beef rib eye steak
Pressure-Caramelized Banana Puree, 76 oven-busters. See beef short ribs
in Banana Cream Pie, 183 Philadelphia steak. See beefhanger steak
Pressure-Caramelized Ketchup, 30 short ribs. See beef short ribs
in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91 sirloin, best bets for hamburger patties, 87
variation, 30 skirt steak. See beef hanger steak
Pressure-Caramelized Onions, 45 Spencer steak. See beef rib eye steak
variations, 45 tenderloin tip roast. See beef1 filet
Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat, 41 whole filet. See beef, filet
Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise, 68 beef, ground
Squash Puree, 76 best bets for hamburger patties, 87
baking trays, how to form a square hamburger patty in, Brown BeefJus, 16
87 Firm Burger Patty, 88
bananas Modernist Hamburger Patty, 88-89
Banana Cream Pie, 182, 183 in Modernist Cheeseburger1 91
Blowtorch-Caramelized Bananas, 182 variation1 88
in Banana Cream Pie, 183 Red Wine Glaze1 20
Pressure-Caramelized Banana Puree, 76 in Braised Short Ribs1 99
in Banana Cream Pie, 183 beef chuck
Barbecue Ketchup, 30 best bets for hamburger patties, 87
Barbecue Marinade, 51 Brown Beef Stock
barley, hulled1 Pressure-Cooked Barley1 78 in French Onion Soup, 45
in Barley Salad, 78 in Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps1 95
in Bok Choy Medley, 162 in Pho Soup, 121
barley, pearl in Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze, 33
Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine, 154 Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 92-93
cooking and parcooking times for, 151 Pressure-Cooked Brown Beef Stock, 10
barley flour, Barley Noodles, 123 variations, 10
Basic Brine for Whole Poultry, 50 White Beef Stock, 10
variation, SO beef flank steak
Basic Chili Oil, 36 best bets for hamburger patties, 87
basil BiltongJerky, 164
Fines Herbes Vinaigrette with Pistachio Butter, 35 Crispy Beef Strands, 166
Genovese Pizza, 143 in Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 167
Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan, 160 Microwaved BeefJerky, 164-165
in Microwave-Fried Parsley, 168 variations, 164
Pistachio Pesto, 22- 23. See also pistachios, Pistachio Smoky Jerky, 164
Pes to Spicy Jerky, 164
Pizza Margherita, 141 beef flatiron steak, Microwaved BeefJerky, 164-165
Sauce Verte, 23 variations1 164
beans beef hanger steak, 88-89
cannellini, Fruit Minestrone, 66-67 Modernist Hamburger Patty, 88-89
variations1 67 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91
flageolet, in Refried Bean Foam, 97 variation, 88
196
beef knucklebones, Red Wine Glaze1 20
in Braised Short Ribs, 99
beef rib eye steak, Modernist Hamburger Patty, 88-89
in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91
variation, 88
beef short ribs
Beef Short Ribs with Shiitake Marmalade, 118
best bets for cooking, 99
best bets for hamburger patties, 87
Braised Short Ribs, 99
Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps, 95
Modernist Hamburger Patty, 88- 89
in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91
variation1 88
beef strip steak
Frozen Steak, 81
Grilled Steak, 84-85
Low-Temp Oven Steak1 81
variation, 81
Sous Vide Steak, 79
Sous Vide Steak in a Cooler, 80
beer, Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice, 145
in French Onion Soup, 45
in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91
in Tuna Confit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 73
beets
Beet Salad, 70
in Pressure-Cooked Carrots and Leeks, 119
in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 48
bell peppers
Bell Pepper Butter, 39
Bell Pepper Soup, 76
Mediterranean Vegetable Confit, 44
in Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Confit1
150
roasted1 in Napolitana Pizza, 140
bergamot essential oil1 Earl Grey Tea Infusion, 171
berries. See specific types of berries
Best Bets
for cooking fish sous vide1 127
for cooking shellfish sous vide, 128
for cooking tender meat sous vide, 80
for cooking tender poultry so us vide, 109
for cooking tough cuts of meat, 99
for cooking tough poultry so us vide, 110
for cooking vegetables in the microwave oven, 162
for hamburger patties, 87
beverages
Strawberry Juice with Green Apple Foam, 67
Ultrafrothy Milk Shake, 89
Bibb lettuce, Pork Belly B.L.T., 102-103
Big Mac sauce, 27
BiltongJerky, 164
bisque, Pressure-Cooked Lobster Bisque 1 40
bitter almond extract, Almond Flavoring, 171
black butter, how to make, 37
black cod
Aromatic Microwaved Cod, 163
best bets for cooking sous vide, 127
Microwaved Black Cod with Scallions and Ginger,
163
variations, 163
in Sous Vide Tuna Confit, 73
black olives, Farro with Chicken, Artichokes, and Black
Olives, 155
black peppercorns
MCCurry Powder, 52. See also MCCurry Powder
Vindaloo Spice Mix, 52
black salt, Chaat Masala, 53
blender. See countertop blenders; immersion blenders
Bloom strengths, 175
blowtorches
Aromatic Chicken Broth, 120
in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119
 BUTTON MUSHROOMS

blowtorches (continued) brines. See also marinades butter (continued)

Bain-Marie Creme Bnilee, 172 Basic Brine for Whole Poultry, SO brown. See brown butter
Blowtorch-Caramelized Bananas, 182 variation, SO clarified. See also ghee
in Banana Cream Pie, 183 Fish Brine, 51 about, viii
Coffee Creme Brulee, 172- 173 variations, 51 how to make, 37
variations, 172 for Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon, 124 smoke and flash points of, viii
Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter, 118 Savory Poultry Brine, SO Coffee Butter, 39
Flan, 172 Seaweed Fish Brine, 51 Crustacean Hollandaise, 29
Korean Pork Belly Skewers, 118 Sweet Brine for Meats, 50 Foamed Lemon Curd, 174
Lamb Skewers with Mint Yogurt, 118 broccoli Fruit Curds, 174
safety tips for, 2 Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli-Gruyere Garlic Hollandaise, 29
Salsa Verde, 31 Puree, 155 Montpellier Butter, 38
Sous Vide Lamb Skewers, 86 Broccoli with Cheese Sauce, 144 in Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter, 118
So us Vide Steak, 79 Broccoli- Gruyere Soup, 76 Porcini Butter, 39
So us Vide Steak in a Cooler, 80 in Autumn Flavors Bok Choy, 162 Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter, 40
Whole Lamb Shank, 104 in Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli- in Crustacean Hollandaise, 29
blue cheese Gruyere Puree, 155 in Lobster Roll, 130 - 131
Aerated Blue Cheese Sauce, 117 Mac and Cheddar, 148 variations, 40
Blue Cheese Sauce, 117 Broccoli Raab Pizza, 143 smoke point of, ix
variation, 117 bromelain, in pineapple, 116 Sous Vide Crustacean Butter, 40
blueberries, Fruit Salad, 67 bronze gelatin, 175 Sous Vide Hollandaise, 28- 29
Blumenthal, Heston broths variations, 29
Onion Fluid Gel, 21 Aromatic Chicken Broth, 120 Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 174
Potato Puree, 100 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119 in Lemon Posset, 173
bok choy, baby Goulash Broth, 121 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 183
Autumn Flavors Bok Choy, 162 Herb and Romaine Broth, 70 variations, 174
Bok Choy Medley, 162 Brown BeefJus, 16 Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 34
in Broccoli with Cheese Sauce, 144 Brown Beef Stock, 86 Spicy Hollandaise, 29
Sichuan Bok Choy, 161- 162 in French Onion Soup, 45 Spinach Butter, 39
variations, 162 in Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps, 95 in Bok Choy Medley, 162
Bolognese Sauce, 32 in Pho Soup, 121 Stove-Top Carotene Butter, 39
bombarice in Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze, 33 in Caramelized Carrot Soup, 75
Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli-Gruyere brown butter variations, 39
Puree, ISS Brown Butter Crust, 178 Ultrastable Butter Sauce, 17
cooking and parcooking times for, 151 in Apple Cream Pie, 183 butter lettuce
Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 153 how to make, 37 Green Salad with Romaine Dressing, 70
Boneless Yakitori Wings, 114 Uovo Pizza, 143 variations, 70
bonito flakes, Yakitori Sauce, 116 Brown Chicken Jus, 16 Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps, 95
in Boneless Yakitori Wings, 114 in Home Jus Gras, 17 buttermilk powder, White Sandwich Bread, 90-91
in Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers, 118 in Shiitake Marmalade, 64 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91
in Tsukune, 118 variations, 16 in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 92-93
Boston lettuce, PorkBellyB.L.T., 102-103 Brown Chicken Stock, 9 butternut squash, Squash Soup, 76
Braised Duck with Steamed Buns, 95 in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 120 in Arborio Rice with Caramelized Squash and
Braised Short Ribs, 99 in Brown Chicken Jus, 16 Saffron, 154
bread in Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 153 button mushrooms
Breadsticks, 136 Brown Fish Stock, 11 in Broccoli with Cheese Sauce, 144
"Everything" Pretzels, 137 Brown Pork Stock, 10 Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Ham and
Garlic Knots, 137 in Goulash Broth, 121 Mushrooms, 150
White Sandwich Bread, 90- 91 in Pork Shoulder Fricassee with Apples and Morels, Mediterranean Vegetable Confit, 44
in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91 95 in Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Con fit,
in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 92- 93 in Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 95 150
bread crumbs, panko in Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 94
Cheese Crumble, 149 in Redeye Gravy, 19
in Baked Mac and Cheese, 146-147 in Refried Bean Foam, 97
Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan, 160 in Refried Bean Puree, 97
bread flour, Pool ish, 138 in So us Vide Carnitas, 94
in Rustic Pizza Dough, 137 in Whole Shoulder, 94
in Whole Wheat Pizza Dough, 137 brown sugar
Breadsticks, 136 Bacon Brown Sugar Infusion, 171
brine injectors and syringes Barbecue Ketchup, 30
Basic Brine for Whole Poultry, SO Brown Vegetable Stock, 13
variation, SO browning pizza crusts, 137
Combi Oven Roast Chicken, 107 Brussels sprout leaves, Bok Choy Medley, 162
Deep-Fried Chicken, 107 Brussels sprouts
Extra-Juicy Chicken, 107 in Broccoli with Cheese Sauce, 144
Pincushion Chicken, 107 Genovese Pizza, 143
Roast Chicken, 106-107 Buckwheat Pizza Dough, 136
variations, 107 Buffalo Sauce, 115
Savory Poultry Brine, SO in So us Vide Buffalo Wings, Ill
Slow-Baked Chicken with Onions, lOS bulbs (vegetables), best bets for cooking in the
Sous Vide Turkey Breast, 109 microwave oven, 162
Spatchcock Chicken, 107 butter. See also ghee
Sweet Brine for Meats, SO Bell Pepper Butter, 39
black, how to make, 37

197
 CAKE MOLDS

c
cake molds, how to form a square hamburger patty in,
87
carnitas
Braised Duck with Steamed Buns, 95
Korean Short· Rib Lettuce Wraps, 95
Lamb Leg Tajine, 95
Pork Shoulder Fricassee with Apples and Morels, 95
Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 95
charcoal grills (continued)
Grilled Pork Chop, 83
Grilled Steak, 84-85
Sous Vide Steak in a Cooler, 80
cheddar cheese
Aged White Cheddar Cheese Slice, ISO
cakes Pressure· Cooked Carnitas, 94 in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with
Instant Chocolate Sponge, 169 variations, 94 Apples, ISO
variations, 169 Pressure· Cooked Chicharr6n, 94,96 Baked Mac and Cheese, 146-147
Peanut Butter Sponge, 169 Sous Vide Carnitas, 94 Broccoli with Cheese Sauce, 144
Raspberry Macadamia Nut Sponge, !69 Whole Shoulder, 94 in Cheese Crumble, 149
Sesame Sponge, 169 carotenes, 39, 40 Cheese Grits, !57
Camembert cheese carrageenan, iota and kappa Fondue, 144
Alsatian Omelet Filling, 57 Strawberry Panna Cotta, 67 goat, Mac with Goat Gouda and Cheddar, 144
Camembert and Gruyere Cheese Slice, ISO Vegetarian Panna Cotta, 175 Mac and Cheddar, 148
in Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with carrot juice, Stove·Top Carotene Butter, 39 Mac and Cheese, 144
Ham and Mushrooms, 150 in Caramelized Carrot Soup, 75 variations, 144
cannellini beans, Fruit Minestrone, 66-67 variations, 39 Mac with Sharp Cheddar and Swiss, 144
variations, 67 carrot powder, Carrot Crust, 178 Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice, 145
canning jars carrot tops, in Microwave· Fried Parsley, 168 in French Onion Soup, 45
Buffalo Sauce, !IS carrots in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91
in Sous Vide Buffalo Wings, Ill Caramelized Carrot Soup, 75 in Tuna Con lit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 73
Caramelized Onion Gravy, 24 carotene pigment in, 39 cheese. See also specific varieties of cheese
Cheese Grits, 157 Pressure-Cooked Carrots and Leeks, 119 Cheese Course, 67
Dried Caramelized Onions, 45 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119 Cheese Crisps, 148
Fingerling Potatoes Confit, 44 variations, 119 Cheese Crumble, 149
French Onion Soup, 45 Pressure·Cooked Vegetable Jus, 77 in Baked Mac and Cheese, 146-147
Mediterranean Vegetable Confit, 44 Pressure·Cooked Vegetables, in Vegetable Stew, 78 Cheese Crust, 178
in Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Con fit, Vacuum· Pickled Vegetables, 48 in Savory Cheese Pie, 183
ISO cashews Cheese Grits, !57
Press ure-Caramelized Onions, 45. See also onions, Mughal Curry Sauce, 26-27 Cheese Pastry Cream, 181
Pressure-Caramelized Onions in Lamb Curry, 104 cheese slices
variations, 45 in Pressure·Cooked Lamb Shanks, 104 Aged White Cheddar Cheese Slice, ISO
Press ure-Cooked Drippings, 24 Roasted Red Pepper Pes to, 23 in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with
variation, 24 cast-iron skillets Apples, ISO
Pressure-Cooked Garlic Confit, 44. See also garlic, Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples, Camembert and Gruyere Cheese Slice, 150
Pressure·Cooked Garlic Confit ISO in Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with
Pressure·Cooked Polenta, 156 Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Ham and Ham and Mushrooms, 150
variation, 156 Mushrooms, 150 Feta Cheese Slice, ISO
pressure·cooking in, S Deep-Dish Fried Pi1:1:a, 142 in Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Confit,
Pressure· Rendered Chicken Fat, 41 Oven-Fried Piua, 142 ISO
in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119 variation, 142 Goat Cheese Slice, ISO
in Fingerling Potatoes Confit, 44 cauliflower in Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Con fit
in Home Jus Gras, 17 Bok Choy Medley, 162 and Basil, ISO
Provenr;al Garlic Confit, 44 in Broccoli with Cheese Sauce, 144 Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice, 145
safety tip for, 5 Cauliflower Soup, 76 in French Onion Soup, 45
Shrimp and Grits, !57 "Fat-Free" Mac and Cheese, 148- 149 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91
variation, 157 variations, 148 in Tuna Con fit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 73
So us Vide Tuna Conlit, 73 Pressure-Cooked Quinoa Salad with Cauliflower, 71 Stilton Cheese Slice, I SO
in Tuna Con fit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 48 in Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot
73 celery Marmalade, ISO
Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 48 Pressure-Infused Celery, 49 cheese water, from "Fat-Free"' Mac and Cheese, 148, 149
canola oil, smoke and flash points of, viii Vacuum-Infused Celery, 49 in Leek and Onion Soup, 76
Capicola Pizza, 143 in Lobster Roll, 130-131 cheeseburger, Modernist Cheeseburger, 91
Caramel Flavoring, 171 variation, 49 cherries
Caramelized Almonds, 182 in Waldorf Salad, 49 Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 183
in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 183 celery root Cherry Vinaigrette, 35
Caramelized Carrot Soup, 75 in Pressure-Cooked Carrots and Leeks, 119 chervil
Caramelized Onion Gravy, 24 Waldorf Salad, 49 Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pesto, 23
carbonating, with a whipping siphon, 3 Chaat Masala, 53 Sauce Verte, 23
cardamom pods, green chamber sealers. See vacuum sealers chicken
MC Curry Powder, 52. See also MC Curry Powder chamomile blossoms, dried, Fish Spice Mix, 54 breasts. See chicken breasts
Vindaloo Spice Mix, 52 in Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon, 124 Chicken Noodle Soup, 119
in Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 95 chanterelles feet. See chicken feet
cardamom seeds Broccoli Raab Pizza, 143 ground. See chicken, ground
Cocoa Nib and Cardamom Dust, 182 in Funghi Pizza, 140 legs. See also chicken thighs
in Chocolate Cream Pie, 183 Mushroom Puree, 63. See also mushrooms, best bets for cooking, 110
Middle Eastern Infusion, 171 Mushroom Puree skin. See chicken skin
carnaroli rice in Shiitake Marmalade, 64 whole. See chicken, whole
cooking and parcooking times for, 151 charcoal grills wings. See chicken wings
Pressure·Cooked Risotto, 152 fan or hair dryer to increase temperature of, 83 chicken, ground
Vegetable Risotto, I 52 Grilled Applesauce, 42 Brown Chicken Jus, 16
variation, 152 in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with in Home Jus Gras, 17
Apples, ISO in Shiitake Marmalade, 64
variations, 16

198

chicken, ground (continued)
Tsukune, 118
in Deep-Fried Tsukune Skewers, 118
chicken, whole
Basic Brine for Whole Poultry, SO
variation, SO
Combi Oven Roast Chicken, 107
Deep-Fried Chicken, 107
Extra-Juicy Chicken, 107
Pincushion Chicken, 107
Roast Chicken, 106-107
variations, 107
Savory Poultry Brine, SO
Slow-Baked Chicken with Onions, 105
Spatchcock Chicken, 107
chicken breasts
best bets for cooking, 109
Chicken Breast Satay, 118
Slow-Baked Chicken with Onions, 105
Sous Vide Chicken, 108
in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119
in Farro with Chicken, Artichokes, and
Black Olives, ISS
chicken fat
Fingerling Potatoes Confit, 44
Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat, 41
in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119
in Fingerling Potatoes Confit, 44
in Home Jus Gras, 17
smoke and flash points of, viii
chicken feet, Brown Chicken Jus, 16
in Home Jus Gras, 17
in Shiitake Marmalade, 64
variations, 16
chicken skin
Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers, 118
Crispy Chicken or Pork Skin, 126
Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat, 41
in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119
in Fingerling Potatoes Con fit, 44
in Home Jus Gras, 17
Puffed Chicken Skin, 113
chicken thighs
best bets for cooking, 110
Brown Chicken Stock, 9
in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 120
in Brown Chicken Jus, 16
in Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 153
Caramelized Onion Gravy, 24
Pes to C hicken Thigh Skewers, 118
Pressure-Cooked Drippings, 24
variation, 24
Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock, 9
in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 120
in Sous Vide Braised Snails, 135
variation, 9
Slow-Baked Chicken with Onions, 105
Sous Vide Chicken, 108
in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119
in Farro with Chicken, Artichokes, and
Black Olives, ISS
chicken wings
best bets for cooking, 110
Boneless Yakitori Wings, 114
Brown Chicken Jus, 16
in Home Jus Gras, 17
in Shiitake Marmalade, 64
variations, 16
Brown Chicken Stock, 9
in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 120
in Brown Chicken Jus, 16
in Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 153
Caramelized Onion Gravy, 24
Crispy Chicken Wings, Korean-Style, 112
COCONUT OIL
chicken wings (continued) cinnamon (continued)
Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings, 113 Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnut Holes, 137
Pressure-Cooked Drippings, 24 Gingerbread Crust, in Ginger Cream Pie, 183
variation, 24 Sous Vide Vanilla-Cinnamon Pastry Cream,
Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock, 9 180-181
in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 120 in Apple Cream Pie, 183
in Sous Vide Braised Snails, 135 variations, 181
variation, 9 citric acid
Sous Vide Buffalo Wings, 111 Crustacean Hollandaise, 29
chickpeas Foamed Lemon Curd, 174
Pressure-Cooked Chickpea Salad, 72 Garlic Hollandaise, 29
in Refried Bean Foam, 97 Lemon Pastry Cream, 181
chili Bakes, Basic Chili Oil, 36 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 183
chili peppers Lemon Posset, 173
chipotle Pressure-Infused Celery, 49
Mexican Marinade, 51 Sous Vide Hollandaise, 28-29
Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil, 36 variations, 29
green, Capicola Pizza, 143 Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 174
habafi.ero, Achiote Paste, 96 in Lemon Posset, 173
in Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 94 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 183
jalapeno. See jalapeno peppers variations, 174
Kashmiri. See Kashmiri chilies Spicy Hollandaise, 29
piquillo. See piquillo peppers Vacuum-Infused Celery, 49
red, dried in Lobster Roll, 130-131
Pressure-Cooked Spiced Chili Oil, 36 variation, 49
Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil, 36. See also sous vide in Waldorf Salad, 49
setup, Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil clam juice, substituting for fish stock, 11
Thai clams
Mango Chili Leather, 47 best bets for cooking sous vide, 128
Vietnamese Marinade, 51 buying fresh, 128
Chili Spice Mix, 55 Clams in Chowder Sauce, 134
in Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings, 113 variations, 134
Chinese Garlic Chili Condiment, 117 Forbidden Rice with Squid Ink and Sous Vide
Chinese Soup, 121 Clams, 154
chipotle chilies how to shuck, 129
Mexican Marinade, 51 Pistachio Clam Chowder, 134
Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil, 36 South of France Chowder, 134
chives clarified butter. See also ghee
Fines Herbes Vinaigrette with Pistachio Butter, 35 about, viii
garlic, Rye Noodles, 123 how to make, 37
Pistachio Pes to, 22-23. See also pistachios, Pistachio smoke and flash points of, viii
Pesta cloves, Autumn Spice Mix, SS
Sauce Verte, 23 cocoa butter, for keeping pie crust crisp, 178
chocolate Cocoa Nib and Cardamom Dust, 182
Chocolate Cream Pie, 182, 183 in Chocolate Cream Pie, 183
Chocolate Crust, 178 cocoa powder
in Chocolate Cream Pie, 183 Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin and Cocoa, ISS
Chocolate Flavoring, 171 Chocolate Crust, 178
Chocolate Pastry Cream, 181 in Chocolate Cream Pie, 183
in Chocolate Cream Pie, 183 Chocolate Pastry Cream, 181
Instant Chocolate Sponge, 169 in Chocolate Cream Pie, 183
variations, 169 Instant Chocolate Sponge, 169
chorizo, Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli- variations, 169
Gruyere Puree, ISS coconut cream
chowders Coconut Infusion, 171
Clams in Chowder Sauce, 134 Coconut Pastry Cream, 181
variations, 134 in Coconut Cream Pie, 183
Pistachio Clam Chowder, 134 Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce, 31
South of France Chowder, 134 in Chicken Breast Satay, 118
cider vinegar. See also apple cider vinegar South Indian Watercress, 82
Barbecue Marinade, 51 coconut cream powder, Coconut Crust, 178
Pressure-Cooked Pickled Mustard Seeds, 43 in Coconut Cream Pie, 183
in Honey Mustard Sauce, 115 coconut flour, Coconut Noodles, 123
cilantro in Thai Soup, 121
Cilantro Pesta, 23 coconut milk
Cilantro Vinaigrette, 35 Coconut Infusion, 171
Pistachio Pesta, 22-23. See also pistachios, Pistachio Coconut Pastry Cream, 181
Pes to in Coconut Cream Pie, 183
Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze, 33 Kerala Curry Sauce, 26
Tortilla Soup, 121 South Indian Watercress, 82
cinnamon Thai Soup, 121
Autumn Spice Mix, SS coconut oil
in Gingerbread Crust, 178 refined, smoke and flash points of, viii
Cinnamon Vanilla Infusion, 171 virgin, smoke point of, ix
199
 COD

cod condiments (continued) cornmeal (continued)

black. See black cod Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 48 Shrimp and Grits, 157
true, best bets for cooking sous vide, 127 confits variation, 157
coffee Fingerling Potatoes Con fit, 44 Cotija cheese
Bain-Marie Creme BrUiee, 172 Mediterranean Vegetable Confit, 44 Corn Juice Grits, 156
Coffee Butter, 39 in Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Confit, Pressure-Cooked Polenta, 156
Coffee Creme Brulee, 172-173 ISO variation, 156
variations, 172 Pressure·Cooked Garlic Con fit, 44. See also garlic, countertop, how to seal food in a zip-top bag on the
Flan, 172 Pressure·Cooked Garlic Con fit edge of, 6
Pot de Creme, 172 Proventyal Garlic Con fit, 44 countertop blenders
Pressure-Infused Coffee Pastry Cream, 181 Sous Vide Tuna Con fit, 73 Amaretto Pastry Cream, 181
in Banana Cream Pie, 183 in Tuna Confit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 183
coffee grinders 73 Chocolate Pastry Cream, 181
Autumn Spice Mix, 55 Tomato Confit, 46 in Chocolate Cream Pie, 183
in Gingerbread Crust, 178 in Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Con fit Coconut Pastry Cream, 181
Chaat Masala, 53 and Basil, !SO in Coconut Cream Pie, 183
Chili Spice Mix, SS in Tomato Leather, 47 Firm Pastry Cream, 181
in Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings, 113 Turkey Confit, 110 Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder, 182. See also
Cocoa Nib and Cardamom Dust, 182 containers, for cooking sous vide. See plastic bags; Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder
in Chocolate Cream Pie, 183 zip-top bags Ginger Pastry Cream, 181
Fish Spice Mix, 54 contamination in Ginger Cream Pie, 183
in Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon, 124 by digital thermometer probe, avoiding, 2 Grilled Applesauce, 42
Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder1 182. See also pasteuriz.ation to destroy pathogens and, 2 in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with
Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder conventional ovens Apples, ISO
Grilling Spice Mix, 53 Froz.en Steak, 81 Kerala Curry Sauce, 26
MCCurry Powder, 52. See also MCCurry Powder how to calibrate, 4 Lemon Pastry Cream, 181
Vindaloo Spice Mix, 52 Low·Temp Oven Steak, 81 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 183
in Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 95 Pressure·Cooked Chicharr6n, 94, 96 Modernist Vichyssoise, 68-69
cold soups cooking times variations, 68
Fruit Minestrone, 66 - 67 safe, 2 Mughal Curry Sauce, 26-27
variations, 67 temperature and, ix in Lamb Curry, 104
Modernist Vichyssoise, 68- 69 coolers, Sous Vide Steak in a Cooler, 80 in Pressure-Cooked Lamb Shanks, 104
variations, 68 core temperatures variations, 26
Raspberry Gazpacho, 65 how to check, 8 Muslim Curry Sauce, 26
Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise, 68 in a vacuum·sealed bag, 8 for pan gravy, 18
Vichyssoise with Potato Peel Reduction, 68 in a zip· top bag, 8 Pressure-Cooked Chickpea Salad, 72
color in sous vide cooking Pressure-Infused Coffee Pastry Cream, 181
of carrots, 39 for fish, 127 in Banana Cream Pie, 183
of crustacean shells, 40 for shellfish, 128 Raspberry Gazpacho, 65
oils and fats as vehicles of, 39 for tender poultry, 109 Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise, 68
combi ovens for tough cuts of meat, 99 Sous Vide Vanilla·Cinnamon Pastry Cream,
Combi Oven Roast Chicken, 107 for tough poultry, 110 180- 181
Steamed Herb Omelet, 58 coriander seeds in Apple Cream Pie, 183
Comte cheese Chaat Masala, 53 variations, 181
Autumn Flavors Bok Choy, 162 Fish Spice Mix, 54 Ultrafrothy Milk Shake, 89
Creamed Spinach, 82 in Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon, 124 Vichyssoise with Potato Peel Reduction, 68
in Florentine Omelet Filling, 57 MCCurry Powder, 52. See also MCCurry Powder crab shells and heads
in Mac and Parmesan, 148 Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil, 36. See also so us vide Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter, 40
variation, 82 setup, Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil in Crustacean Hollandaise, 29
condiments. See also ketchup; sauces; savory Vindaloo Spice Mix, 52 in Lobster Roll, 130-131
marmalades in Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 95 variations, 40
Chinese Garlic Chili Condiment, 117 corn Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Stock, 12. See also
Grilled Applesauce, 42 Corn Juice Tamales, 158 pressure cookers, Pressure·Cooked Crustacean
in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Corn Soup, 76 Stock
Apples, ISO Hush Puppies, 158 Sous Vide Crustacean Butter, 40
Pressure·Carameliz.ed Onions, 45. See also onions, Masa Harina Noodles, 123 crabmeat
Pressure·Carameliz.ed Onions in Tortilla Soup, 121 Crab Roll, 130
variations, 45 Popcorn Infusion, 171 in Lobster Roll, 130
Pressure· Cooked Garlic Confit, 44. See also garlic, Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales, 158-159 Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter, 40
Pressure· Cooked Garlic Confit variation, 158 in Crustacean Hollandaise, 29
variations, 44 corn grits. See cornmeal in Lobster Roll, 130- 131
Pressure· Cooked Pickled Mustard Seeds, 43 corn husks, dried variations, 40
inHoneyMustardSauce, 115 Corn Juice Tamales, 158 Sous Vide Crustacean Butter, 40
Pressure· Infused Celery, 49 Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales, 158-159 crayfish meat, shells, and heads
Tomato Confit, 46 variation, 158 Pressure· Cooked Crustacean Butter, 40
in Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Confit Toasted Corn Stock, 14. See also Toasted Corn Stock in Crustacean Hollandaise, 29
and Basil, ISO corn juice in Lobster Roll, 130-131
in Tomato Leather, 47 Corn Juice Grits, 156 variations, 40
Tomato Leather, 47 Corn Juice Tamales, 158 So us Vide Crustacean Butter, 40
in Lobster Roll, 130- 131 corn oil, smoke and flash points of, viii cream
variations, 47 cornmeal Amaretto Pastry Cream, 181
Vacuum-Infused Celery, 49 Cheese Grits, 157 in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 183
in Lobster Roll, 130-131 Corn Juice Grits, 156 Bain·Marie Creme BrUlee, 172
variation, 49 Pressure-Cooked Polenta, 156 Cheese Pastry Cream, 181
in Waldorf Salad, 49 variation, 156

200
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cream (continued) Crispy Shallots, 167
Chocolate Pastry Cream, 181 Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings, 113
in Chocolate Cream Pie, 183 cucumbers
Coffee Creme Bnilee, 172-173 Fruit Minestrone, 66-67
variations, 172 variations, 67 dates, Lamb Curry, 104
Cream of Mushroom Soup, 63 Fruit Salad, 67 Deep-Dish Fried Pizza, 142
Firm Pastry Cream, 181 in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 48 deep-frying
Ginger Pastry Cream, 181 culatello, Hawaiian Pizza, 140 safety tips for, 4
in Ginger Cream Pie, 183 cumin without a deep fryer, how to, 4
Lemon Pastry Cream, 181 Chaat Masala, 53 deep-frying setup
in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 183 MC Curry Powder, 52. See also MC Curry Powder Beef Short Ribs with Shiitake Marmalade, 118
Lemon Posset, 173 Vindaloo Spice Mix, 52 Bok Choy Medley, 162
Muslim Curry Sauce, 26 in Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 95 Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnut Holes, 137
Pot de Creme, 172 cures Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 167
Pressure-Cooked Lobster Bisque, 40 Fish Cure, 51 variation, 167
Pressure-Infused Coffee Pastry Cream, 181 salt in, scaling for amount of, 88 Crispy Chicken Wings, Korean-Style, 112
in Banana Cream Pie, 183 curry leaves, Kerala Curry Sauce, 26 Crispy Shallots, 167
Raspberry Panna Cotta, 175 curry sauces Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings, 113
variation, 175 Kerala Curry Sauce, 26 Deep-Fried Chicken, 107
Sous Vide Vanilla Creme Anglaise, 176 Mughal Curry Sauce, 26-27 Deep-Fried Tsukune Skewers, 118
variation, 176 in Lamb Curry, 104 Garlic Knots, 137
Sous Vide Vanilla-Cinnamon Pastry Cream, in Pressure-Cooked Lamb Shanks, 104 Hush Puppies, ISS
180-181 variations, 26 Korean Pork Belly Skewers, 118
in Apple Cream Pie, 183 Muslim Curry Sauce, 26 Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 92-93
variations, 181 custards Pressure-Cooked Chicharr6n, 94,96
Strawberry Panna Cotta, 67 Bain-Marie Creme BrUiee, 172 Sous Vide Steak, 79
Vegetarian Panna Cotta, 175 Coffee Creme Bnilee, 172- 173 dehydrators. See food dehydrators
cream cheese variations, 172 delicata squash, Squash Soup, 76
Baked Mac and Cheese, 146-147 Flan, 172 in Arborio Rice with Caramelized Squash and
Corn Juice Grits, 156 Pot de Creme, 172 Saffron, 154
Pressure-Cooked Polenta, 156 So us Vide Vanilla Creme Anglaise, 176 depressurizing pressure cookers, 5
variation, 156 variation, 176 Deviled Eggs, 62
cream infusions, how to make, 171 diastatic malt powder
Cream of Mushroom Soup, 63 Modernist Vichyssoise, 68-69
cream pies variations, 68
Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 183 Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise, 68
Apple Cream Pie, 182, 183 Vichyssoise with Potato Peel Reduction, 68
Banana Cream Pie, 182, 183 digital scales, how to tare, 2
Chocolate Cream Pie, 182, 183 digital thermometers
Coconut Cream Pie, 183 checking temperature while cooking sous vide with,
Ginger Cream Pie, 182, 183 avoiding contaminating food with probe and, 2
Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 182, 183 how to test accuracy of, 2
Savory Cheese Pie, 183 with oven probe. See digital thermometers, with
Creamed Spinach, 82 oven probe
in Florentine Omelet Filling, 57 digital thermometers, with oven probe
in Mac and Parmesan, 148 Combi Oven Roast Chicken, 107
variation, 82 Extra-Juicy Chicken, 107
creme anglaise Frozen Steak, 81
about, 170 Low-Temp Oven Steak, 81
Sous Vide Vanilla Creme Anglaise, 176 variation, 81
variation, 176 Pincushion Chicken, 107
creme brUlfe Roast Chicken, 106-107
about, 170 variations, 107
Bain-Marie Creme BrUlee, 172 Slow-Baked Chicken with Onions, !OS
Coffee Creme Bnilee, 172-173 Spatchcock Chicken, 107
variations, 172 dill, in Microwave-Fried Parsley, 168
creme pitissiere. See pastry cream Double Almond Crust, 178
crimini mushrooms. See also porto bello mushrooms in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 183
Mushroom jus, 15 dough
in Cream of Mushroom Soup, 63 fermentation of, to achieve flavor, 139
in Mushroom Puree, 63 how to knead by hand, 139
in Mushroom Soup, 76 pizza. See pizza dough
in Shiitake Marmalade, 64 doughnut holes, Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnut Holes,
crisps 137
Cheese Crisps, 148 dressings. See also mayonnaise; vinaigrettes
Parmesan Crisp, 70 Sesame Dressing, 35
Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 167 Spiced Chili Dressing, 35
variation, 167 Vietnamese-Style Dressing, 35
Crispy Beef Strands, 166 Dried Caramelized Onions, 45
in Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 167 drying food. See food dehydrators
Crispy Chicken or Pork Skin, 126 dry-rendering fats, 41
Crispy Chicken Wings, Korean-Style, 112 duck
Crispy Fish Skin, 126 breast, best bets for cooking, 109
variations, 126 Game Bird Jus, 16

201
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E
duck (continued) egg yolks (continued)
legs Raspberry Crust, 178
best bets for cooking, 110 Rouille, 25
Braised Duck with Steamed Buns, 95 in South of France Chowder, 134
duck fat Earl Grey Tea Infusion, 171 Sabayon, 176
smoke and flash points of, viii edamame, in Brocco1i with Cheese Sauce, 144 Scrambled Egg Pudding, 56
Turkey Confit, 110 edge sealers. See also vacuum sealers in Steamed Herb Omelet, 58-59
how to use,6 Sous Vide Ho ll andaise, 28-29
egg whites variations, 29
Deviled Eggs, 62 Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 174
Eggs Sunny-Side Up, 62-63 in Lemon Posset, 173
variation, 62 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 183
egg yolks variations, 174
Aioli,2S Sous Vide Vanilla Creme Anglaise, 176
Amaretto Pastry Cream, 181 variation, 176
in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 183 Sous Vide Vanilla-Cinnamon Pastry Cream, 180-181
Bacon Mayonnaise, 25 in Apple Cream Pie, 183
in Microwaved Potato Salad, 162 variations, 181
in Pork Belly B.L.T., 102-103 Spicy Hollandaise, 29
in Smoked Bacon B.L.T., 102 Striped Mushroom Omelet, 60- 61
Bain·Marie Creme BrUiee, 172 Tartar Sauce, 25
Barley Noodles, 123 eggplant, Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan, 160
Brown Butter Crust, 178 eggs. See also egg whites; egg yolks; eggs, whole
in Apple Cream Pie, 183 quail, Uovo Pizza, 143
Buffalo Sauce, liS eggs, whole
Carrot Crust, 178 Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Ham and
Cheese Crust, 178 Mushrooms, 150
in Savory Cheese Pie, 183 Cheese Grits, 157
Cheese Pastry Cream, 181 Deviled Eggs, 62
Chocolate Crust, 178 Eggs Sunny-Side Up, 62-63
in Chocolate Cream Pie, 183 variation, 62
Chocolate Pastry Cream, 181 Plan, 172
in Chocolate Cream Pie, 183 French Scrambled Eggs, 56
Coconut Crust, 178 in Striped Mushroom Omelet, 60-61
in Coconut Cream Pie, 183 variations, 56
Coconut Noodles, 123 Fresh Egg Noodles, 122
in Thai Soup, 121 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119
Coconut Pastry Cream, 181 variations, 123
in Coconut Cream Pie, 183 Green Salad with Romaine Dressing, 70
Coffee Creme Brulee, 172-173 variations, 70
variations, 172 Instant Chocolate Sponge, 169
Crustacean Hollandaise, 29 variations, 169
Double Almond Crust, 178 Masa Harina Noodles, 123
in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 183 in Tortilla Soup, 121
Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 21 Mini Egg Cups, 56
as emulsifiers, 35 Olive Oil Scrambled Eggs, 56
Firm Burger Patty, 88 in Espagnole Omelet Filling, 57
Firm Pastry Cream, 181 Peanut Butter Sponge, 169
Flaky Pie Crust, 178-179 Potato Noodles, 123
variations, 178 Raspberry Macadamia Nut Sponge, 169
Foamed Lemon Curd, 174 Raviolo Omelet Filling, 57
French Scrambled Eggs, 56 Rice Noodles, 123
in Striped Mushroom Omelet, 60-61 Rye Noodles, 123
variations, 56 Scrambled Egg Pudding, 56
Fruit Curds, 174 in Steamed Herb Omelet, 58- 59
Garlic Hollandaise, 29 Sesame Sponge, 169
Ginger Pastry Cream, 181 Shrimp and Grits, 157
in Ginger Cream Pie, 183 variation, 157
Gingerbread Crust, 178 Steamed Herb Omelet, 58-59
in Ginger Cream Pie, 183 Striped Mushroom Omelet, 60-61
Lemon Pastry Cream, 181 Whole Wheat Noodles, 123
in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 183 in Chinese Soup, 121
Mini Egg Cups, 56 Emmental cheese, Fondue, 144
Modernist Mayonnaise, 25 emulsifiers. See. also sodium citrate; soy lecithin, liquid;
in Sweet Onion Slaw, 69 soy lecithin powder
variations, 25 egg yolks as, 35
Montpellier Butter, 38 emulsions, mayonnaise as, 25
in Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter, 118 escolar1 in Sous Vide Tuna Con fit, 73
Olive Oil Scrambled Eggs, 56 Espagnole Omelet Filling, 57
in Espagnole Omelet Filling, 57 essential oils
Peanut Crust, 178 bergamot, Earl Grey Tea Infusion, 171
in Banana Cream Pie, 183 lemon. See lemon essential oil
Pot de Creme, 172 mandarin, as flavoring for milk or cream infusions, 171
Pressure-Infused Coffee Pastry Cream, 181 "Everything" Pretzels, 137
in Banana Cream Pie, 183 Extra-Juicy Chicken, 107

202
 FRU IT CURDS

F
flageolet beans, in Refried Bean Foam, 97 food processors (continued)
Flaky Pie Crust, 178-179 Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pesto, 23
variations, 178 Chocolate Crust, 178
flan in Chocolate Cream Pie, 183
fans, to increase temperature of charcoal grill 1 Grilled about, 170 Cilantro Pesto, 23
Pork Chop, 83 Flan, 172 Coconut Crust, 178
farro flash point, of oils, viii in Coconut Cream Pie, 183
cooking and parcooking times for1 151 flavorfu l oils, viii-ix Corn Juice Tamales, 158
Farro with Chicken, Artichokes1 and Black Olives, flavorings, for milk or cream infusions, 171 Double Almond Crust, 178
155 flavors in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 183
"Fat-Free" Mac and Cheese, 148-149 fermentation of dough to achieve, 139 Flaky Pie Crust, 178-179
variations, 148 in lobster shells, 40 variations, 178
fats. See also oils of sourdough, 138, 139 Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder, 182. See also
adding at last minute, 17 in stocks, 13 Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder
animal, viii. See also specific animal fats Florentine Omelet Filling, 57 Fresh Egg Noodles, 122
smoke and flash points of, viii flour in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119
dry-rendering, 41 almond. See almond flour variations, 123
wet-rendering, 41 barley, Barley Noodles, 123 Gingerbread Crust, 178
fennel, Finocchiona Pizza, 143 bread, Foolish, 138 in Ginger Cream Pie, 183
fermented black bean and chili paste, Sichuan Bok in Rustic Pizza Dough, 137 Green Onion and Sorrel Pes to, 23
Choy, 161-162 in Whole Wheat Pizza Dough, 137 for pan gravy, 18
variations, 162 buckwheat, Buckwheat Pizza Dough, 136 Peanut Crust, 178
feta cheese, Feta Cheese Slice, ISO coconut, Coconut Noodles, 123 in Banana Cream Pie, 183
in Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Confit, 150 in Thai Soup, 121 Pistachio Pes to, 22-23. See also pistachios, Pistachio
fibrous vegetables1 best bets for cooking in the potato, Potato Noodles, 123 Pes to
microwave oven, 162 quinoa, Quinoa Pizza Dough, 136 Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales, 158- 159
Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter, 118 rice, Rice Noodles, 123 variation, 158
Fines Herbes Vinaigrette with Pistachio Butter, 35 whole wheat. See whole wheat flour Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock, 9
Fingerling Potatoes Con fit, 44 Wondra. See Wondra in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 120
finishing nails, Pincushion Chicken, 107 00 flour. See 00 flour in Sons Vide Braised Snails, 135
finishing step fluid gels variation, 9
forrisotto,151 Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 21 Raspberry Crust, 178
for sauces, 17 how to make, 21 Roasted Red Pepper Pes to, 23
Finocchiona Pizza, 143 Onion Fluid Gel, 21 Sauce Verte, 23
fires. See also blowtorches; charcoal grills; open flame variation, 21 Spinach Pesto, 23
grease, extinguishing, 4 quick-set, 21 food safety. See also safety tips
Firm Burger Patty, 88 fluke, best bets for cooking sous vide, 127 oflightly cooked food, ix
Firm Pastry Cream, 181 Foamed Lemon Curd, 174 with meat tenderizer, 2
fish . See also specific varieties offish foams forbidden rice
cooking sous vide Apple Foam, 182 cooking and parcooking times for, 151
best bets for, 127 in Apple Cream Pie, 183 Forbidden Rice with Squid Ink and Sous Vide
core temperature for, 127 foaming with a whipping siphon and, 3 Clams, 154
varieties of, for making fish stock, 11 lightness of, water bath temperature and, 29 Fragrant Sons Vide Salmon, 124
fish bones powdered soy lecithin for, 17 Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder, 182
Brown Fish Stock, 11 Refried Bean Foam, 97 in Raspberry Crust, 178
Sous Vide Fish Stock, 11 variations, 97 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 183
in Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin and Cocoa, ISS Sabayon, 176 in Raspberry Macadamia Nut Sponge, 169
in Bell Pepper Soup, 76 Strawberry Juice with Green Apple Foam, 67 in Ultrafrothy Milk Shake, 89
variation, 11 fond, 18 freezing
Fish Brine, 51 Fondue, 144 of meat, before cooking, 84
variations, 51 fontina cheese of metal baking sheet, for cooling rice, 151, 152
Fish Cure, 51 Mac and Fontina, 148 French Onion Soup, 45
fish sauce Mac with Gorgonzola and Fontina, 144 French presses
Crispy Beef Strands, 166 food dehydrators Aromatic Chicken Broth, 120
in Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 167 Dried Caramelized Onions, 45 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119
Pho Soup, 121 Fruit Leather, 47 Chinese Soup, 121
Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly Adobo, 98 Mango Chili Leather, 47 Goulash Broth, 121
variation, 98 Onion Leather, 47 Pho Soup, 121
So us Vide Pork Belly Adobo, 98 Pressure-Cooked Chicharr6n, 94, 96 Thai Soup, 121
Spiced Chili Dressing, 35 Puffed Chicken Skin, 113 Tortilla Soup, 121
Thai Soup, 121 Tomato Leather, 47 French Scrambled Eggs, 56
Vietnamese Marinade, 51 in Lobster Roll, 130-131 in Striped Mushroom Omelet, 60-61
Vietnamese-Style Dressing, 35 variations, 47 variations, 56
fish skin, in fish stock, 11 food processors Fresh Egg Noodles, 122
Fish Spice Mix, 54 Brown Butter Crust, 178 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119
in Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon, 124 in Apple Cream Pie, 183 variations, 123
fish stock Brown Chicken Stock, 9 freshness, of shellfish, 128
bottled clam juice as substitute for, 11 in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 120 Frozen Steak, 81
Brown Fish Stock, 11 in Brown Chicken Jus, 16 fruit curds
fish skin in, 11 in Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 153 Foamed Lemon Curd, 174
Sous Vide Fish Stock, 11 Carrot Crust, 178 Fruit Curds, 174
in Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin and Cocoa, ISS Cheese Crumble, 149 Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 174
in Bell Pepper Soup, 76 in Baked Mac and Cheese, 146-147 in Lemon Posset, 173
variation, 11 Cheese Crust, 178 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 183
in Savory Cheese Pie, 183 variations, 174

203
 FRU IT JELLIES

G
Fruit Jellies, 175 ghee (continued)
Fruit Leather, 47 Muslim Curry Sauce, 26
Fruit Minestrone, 66-67 gherkins, Tartar Sauce, 25
variations, 67 Ghigiarelli family, 142
Fruit Salad, 67 galangal gigante beans, in Refried Bean Foam, 97
fruits. See also specific fruits about, 31 ginger
how to compress for vacuum sealing, 7 Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce, 31 Aromatic Microwaved Cod, 163
Fruity Pebbles Infusion, 171 in Chicken Breast Satay, 118 Ginger Cream Pie, 182, 183
frying. See deep-frying; deep-frying setup Thai Soup, 121 Ginger Oil, 36
frying pans. See cast-iron skillets; nonstick frying pans Game Bird Jus, 16 Ginger Pastry Cream, 181
Funghi Pizza, 140 garbanzo beans. See chickpeas in Ginger Cream Pie, 183
garlic Lemongrass Ginger Infusion, 171
Chili Spice Mix, 55 Microwaved Black Cod with Scallions and Ginger,
in Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings, 113 163
Chinese Garlic Chili Condiment, 117 variations, 163
Garlic Hollandaise, 29 Microwaved Sea Bass, Til apia, Halibut, or Sole, 163
Garlic Knots, 137 Gingerbread Crust, 178
Garlic Oil, 36 in Ginger Cream Pie, 183
Pressure-Cooked Garlic Confit, 44 glazes
in Achiote Paste, 96 Passion Fruit Glaze, 182
inAioli,25 in Coconut Cream Pie, 183
in Broccoli Raab Pizza, 143 Red Wine Glaze, 20
in Caramelized Onion Gravy, 24 in Braised Short Ribs, 99
in Creamed Spinach, 82 Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze, 33
in Garlic Hollandaise, 29 gluten. See vital wheat gluten
in Garlic Mashed Potatoes, 100 goat cheese
in Montpellier Butter, 38 Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pesta, 23
in Rouille, 25 Goat Cheese Slice, 150
in South Indian Watercress, 82 in Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Con fit
in Steel· Cut Oats with So us Vide Braised Snails, and Basil, 150
154 Mac with Goat Gouda and Cheddar, 144
variations, 44 gochujang
Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus, 77 Kalbi Marinade, 51
Provent;:al Garlic Confit, 44 Korean Wing Sauce, 116. See also Korean Wing
Rouille, in South of France Chowder, 134 Sauce
garlic black bean sauce, in Sichuan Bok Choy, 161 - 162 gold gelatin, 175
garlic chives, Rye Noodles, 123 Gorgonzola cheese
gaskets, of pressure cookers, 5 Mac with Gorgonzola and Fontina, 144
gazpacho, Raspberry Gazpacho, 65 Roasted Red Pepper Pes to, 23
gelatin Gouda cheese
Apple Foam, 182 goat, Mac with Goat Gouda and Cheddar, 144
in Apple Cream Pie, 183 Pressure· Cooked Risotto, 152
Firm Pastry Cream, 181 Spinach Pesto, 23
Fruit Jellies, 175 Vegetable Risotto, 152
gelling strengths of, 175 variation, 152
kinds of, 175 Goulash Broth, 121
measuring, 175 grains. See also specific grains
Montpellier Butter, 38 cooking and parcooking times for, 151
in Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter, 118 Grana Pad a no cheese, Arborio Rice with Caramelized
Raspberry Panna Cotta, 175 Squash and Saffron, 154
variation, 175 grape juice, P. B. & J. Gelato, 177
softening, 175 grapefruit
Strawberry Panna Cotta, 67 Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin and Cocoa, 155
gelato Fruit Curds, 174
about, 170 grapeseed oil
Hazelnut Gelato, 177 Basic Chili Oil, 36
P. B. & ]. Gelato, 177 Garlic Oil, 36
Pistachio Gelato, 177 Ginger Oil, 36
variations, 177 Lemon Oil, 36
Strawberry Macadamia Gelato, 177 Rosemary Oil, 36
gels smoke and flash points of, viii
dairy, acid for making, 173 Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 34
fluid. See fluid gels Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil, 36
how to make, 21 Thyme0il,36
posset as, 173 Vanilla Oil,36
quick-set method for, 21 gravy
semisolid, 21 Caramelized Onion Gravy, 24
Genovese Pizza, 143 pan, full.flavored, how to make, 18
ghee. See also clarified butter Pressure·Cooked Drippings, 24
how to make, 37 variation, 24
Kerala Curry Sauce, 26 Redeye Gravy, 19
Mughal Curry Sauce, 26-27 in Shrimp and Grits, 157
in Lamb Curry, 104 thickening with Wondra, 18
in Pressure· Cooked Lamb Shanks, 104 grease fires, extinguishing, 4
variations, 26

204
 HUSH PUPPIES

green beans, in Broccoli with Cheese Sauce, 144

green cardamom pods. See cardamom pods, green
green onions. See scallions
green peas, Quinoa with Pistachio Pes to and
Asparagus, ISS
H
habafiero peppers, Achiote Paste, 96
How To (continued)
poach salmon in a kitchen sink, 125
pressure-cook risotto and paella, 151
seal food in a zip-top bag, 6
shuck clams, 129
Green Salad with Romaine Dressing, 70 in Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 94 shuck mussels, 129
variations, 70 hair dryers, to increase temperature of charcoal grill, 83 tare a digital scale, 2
green tea, matcha, Green Tea Flavoring, 171 Grilled Pork Chop, 83 test the accuracy of a thermometer, 2
greens. See also specific greens halibut use an edge sealer, 6
leafy, best bets for cooking in the microwave oven, best bets for cooking sous vide, 127 use a handheld pump, 7
162 Microwaved Sea Bass, Tilapia, Halibut, or Sole, 163 use an impulse sealer, 6
Grilled Applesauce, 42 in Sous Vide Tuna Con fit, 73 use a pressure cooker, 5
in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples, ham. See also culatello; pancetta; prosciutto use a whipping siphon, 3
!SO Alsatian Omelet Filling, 57 humidity, poolish and, 138
Grilled Pork Chop, 83 Bok Choy Med ley, 162 Hush Puppies, 158
Grilled Steak, 84-85 Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Ham
grilling. See charcoal grills and Mushrooms, 150
Grilling Spice Mix, 53 hamburger, Modernist Cheeseburger, 91
grills, charcoal. See charcoal grills hamburger patties, square, how to form, 87
grits. See cornmeal handheld blenders. See immersion blenders
grouse, Game Bird Jus, 16 handheld pumps, how to use, 7
Gruyere cheese handheld whisks, Eggs Sunny-Side Up, 62-63
Baked Mac and Cheese, 146- 147 Hawaiian Pizza, 140
Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine, 154 hazelnut butter, Hazelnut Gelato, 177
Broccoli- Gruyere Soup, 76 hazelnut oil
Camembert and Gruyere Cheese Slice, 150 Hazelnut Gelato, 177
in Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Peanut Butter Sponge, 169
Ham and Mushrooms, 150 smoke point of, ix
Cheese Crumble, 149 in Sous Vide Tuna Confit, 73
in Baked Mac and Cheese, 146-147 hazelnuts
Cheese Pastry Cream, 181 Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pesto, 23
"Fat-Free" Mac and Cheese, 148-149 Fish Spice Mix, 54
variations, 148 in Fragrant So us Vide Salmon, 124
Mac and Gruyere, 144 Herb and Romaine Broth, 70
Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice, 145 herbs. See specific herbs
in French Onion Soup, 45 hoisin sauce, Sichuan Bok Choy, 161-162
in Modernist Cheeseburger,91 variations, 162
in Tuna Confit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 73 hollandaise sauce
Crustacean Hollandaise, 29
Garlic Hollandaise, 29
So us Vide Hollandaise, 28-29
variations, 29
Spicy Hollandaise, 29
Home Jus Gras, 17
variation, 17
Honey Flavoring, 171
Honey Mustard Sauce, 115
honey powder
Autumn Spice Mix, 55
in Gingerbread Crust, 178
Chili Spice Mix, SS
in Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings, 113
Grilling Spice Mix, 53
honey vinega r, Pressure-Cooked Quinoa Salad with
Cauliflower, 71
How To
bake salmon in a toaster oven, 125
brine salmon in a kitchen sink, 125
calibrate a conventional oven, 4
check the core temperature, 8
in a vacuum-sealed bag, 8
in a zip-top bag, 8
compress fruits and vegetables, 7
deep-fry without a deep fryer, 4
form a square hamburger patty, 87
grind meat like a pro, 87
kill and shell a lobster, 128
knead dough by hand, 139
make clarified butter and brown butter, 37
make full-flavored pan gravy, 18
make gels and fluid gels, 21
make a milk or cream infusion, 171
make a pizza, 140
parcook and finish risotto and paella, 151

205
 ICE CHESTS

I
ice chests, Sous Vide Steak in a Cooler, 80
immersion blenders (continued)
Hazelnut Gelato, 177
Home Jus Gras, 17
variation, 17
Mac and Cheese, 144
J
Jaccard meat tenderi ze r
ice-cream machines variation, 144 food safety with, 2
Hazelnut Gelato, 177 Mac and Gruyere, 144 Sweet Brine for Meats, SO
P. B. & ). Gelato, 177 Mac with Goat Gouda and Cheddar, 144 Jack cheese
Pistachio Gelato, 177 Mac with Gorgonzola and Fontina, 144 "Fat-Free" Mac and Cheese, 148- 149
variations, 177 Mac with Jack and Stilton, 144 variations, 148
Strawberry Macadamia Gelato, 177 Mac with Sharp Cheddar and Swiss, 144 Mac with Jack and Stilton, 144
ice-water baths Mini Egg Cups, 56 jalapeno peppers
Bok Choy Medley, 162 Modernist Vinaigrette, 35 Chinese Garlic Chili Condiment, 117
Braised Short Ribs, 99 in Pressure-Cooked Lentil Salad, 74 Salsa Verde, 31
Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pesto, 23 variations, 35 Tortilla Soup, 121
Cilantro Pesta, 23 Montpellier Butter, 38 Japanese rice, short-grain, cooking and parcooking
Com hi Oven Roast Chicken, 107 in Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter, 118 times for, 1S1
Deep-Fried Chicken, 107 Olive Oil Scrambled Eggs, 56 jellies, Fruit Jellies, 175
Extra-Juicy Chicken, 107 in Espagnole Omelet Filling, 57 jerky
freezing lobster, 128 Onion Fluid Gel, 21 BiltongJerky, 164
Green Onion and Sorrel Pesta, 23 variation, 21 Microwaved BeefJerky, 164-165
Grilled Applesauce, 42 Oyster Stew, 134 variations, 164- 16S
in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with P. B. & ). Gelato, 177 Smoky Jerky, 164
Apples, ISO for pan gravy, 18 Spicy Jerky, 164
Modernist Vichyssoise, 68 - 69 Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice, 145 Jerusalem artichokes {sunchokes)
variations, 68 in French Onion Soup, 45 Artichoke Soup, 76
Pincushion Chicken, 107 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91 in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 48
Pistachio Pesta, 22-23. See also pistachios, Pistachio in Tuna Confit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, juicers
Pes to 73 Fruit Minestrone, 66-67
Roast Chicken, 106-107 Pistachio Clam Chowder, 134 variations, 67
variations, 107 Pistachio Gelato, 177 Strawberry Marinara, 33
Roasted Red Pepper Pesto, 23 variations, 177 Vegetable Risotto, 152
Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise, 68 Popcorn Infusion, 171 variation, 1S2
Sauce Verte, 23 Porcini Butter, 39 juices. See also specific types of juices
Spatchcock Chicken, 107 Pot de Creme, 172 FruitJellies, 175
Spinach Pes to, 23 Pressure-Cooked Chickpea Salad, 72 juniper berries, Turkey Confit, 110
Ultrafrothy Milk Shake, 89 Salsa Verde, 31 jus
Vichyssoise with Potato Peel Reduction, 68 Scrambled Egg Pudding, 56 Brown BeefJus, 16
immersion blenders in Steamed Herb Omelet, 58-59 Brown Chicken Jus, 16
Aged White Cheddar Cheese Slice, ISO Sesame Dressing, 35 in Home Jus Gras, 17
in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Sous Vide Vanilla Creme Anglaise, 176 in Shiitake Marmalade, 64
Apples, ISO variation, 176 variations, 16
Bain-Marie Creme BrU.lee, 172 South of France Chowder, 134 Game Bird Jus, 16
Baked Mac and Cheese, 146- 147 Spiced Chili Dressing, 35 Home Jus Gras, 17
Bell Pepper Butter, 39 Spinach Butter, 39 variation, 17
Broccoli with Cheese Sauce, 144 in Bok Choy Medley, 162 Mushroom Jus, 15
Camembert and Gruyere Cheese Slice, 150 Steamed Herb Omelet, 58-59 in Cream of Mushroom Soup, 63
in Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Stilton Cheese Slice, 1SO in Mushroom Puree, 63
Ham and Mushrooms, 150 in Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot in Mushroom Soup, 76
Cheese Crumble, 149 Marmalade, ISO Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus, 77
in Baked Mac and Cheese, 146-147 Stove-Top Carotene Butter, 39
Cheese Pastry Cream, 181 in Caramelized Carrot Soup, 7S
Cherry Vinaigrette, 35 variations, 39
Cilantro Vinaigrette, 35 Strawberry Macadamia Gelato, 177
Clams in Chowder Sauce, 134 Ultrastable Butter Sauce, 17
variations, 134 Vietnamese-Style Dressing, 3S
Coffee Butter, 39 impulse sealers, how to use, 6
Coffee Creme BrU.Iee, 172-173 Infused -Cream Potato Puree, 100
variations, 172 infusions
Deviled Eggs, 62 infusing with a whipping siphon and. See
Eggs Sunny-Side Up, 62-63 pressure-infusing
variation, 62 milk or cream, how to make, 171
Feta Cheese Slice, ISO injectors. See brine injectors and syringes
in Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Con fit, Insta Cure #I, PorkBellyB.L.T., 102- 103
ISO Instant Chocolate Sponge, 169
Fines Herbes Vinaigrette with Pistachio Butter, 35 variations, 169
Flan, 172 instant-read thermometers, checking core temperature
fluid gels, 21 in a zip-top bag using, 8
French Scrambled Eggs, 56 iota carrageenan
in Striped Mushroom Omelet, 60- 61 Strawberry Panna Cotta, 67
variations, 56 Vegetarian Panna Cotta, 17S
Goat Cheese Slice, ISO iron frying pans . See cast-iron skillets
in Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Con fit Italian parsley, Sauce Verte, 23
and Basil, ISO Italian sausage, Finocchiona Pizza, 143

206
 LU, MARGARET

K
kala namak, Chaat Mas ala, 53
L
lactic acid, in sourdough starters, 138
lightly cooked food
safety tips for, ix
science of, ix
lima beans, in Refried Bean Foam, 97
lime leaves, Makrud, Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 34
Kalbi Marinade, 51 Lahey, Jim, No-Knead Country Bread recipe of, 139 limes/lime zest
kappa carrageenan lamb Citrus Infusion, 171
Strawberry Panna Cotta, 67 leg of Fruit Curds, 174
Vegetarian Panna Cotta, 175 Lamb Leg Tajine, 95 liquid smoke
Kashmiri chilies Lamb Skewers with Mint Yogurt, 118 Barbecue Ketchup, 30
MC Curry Powder, 52. See also MC Curry Powder loin, Sous Vide Lamb Skewers, 86 Smoky Jerky, 164
Vindaloo Spice Mix, 52 in Microwaved Beef jerky, 164-165 loaf pans
in Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 95 shanks how to form a square hamburger patty in, 87
Kerala Curry Sauce, 26 best bets for cooking, 99 White Sandwich Bread, 90- 91
ketchup Lamb Curry, 104 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91
Barbecue Ketchup, 30 Pressure-Cooked Lamb Shanks, 104 in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 92- 93
Pressure-Caramelized Ketchup, 30 Whole Lamb Shank, 104 lobster meat
in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91 shoulder, best bets for cooking, 99 claws, best bets for cooking so us vide, 128
variation, 30 lard, pork, smoke and flash points o~ viii Lobster Roll, 130-131
Kinch, David, Raspberry Gazpacho, 65 leafy greens. See also specific leafy greens variation, 130
kitchen sinks, how to poach salmon in, 125 best bets for cooking in the microwave oven, 162 Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter, 40
kneading dough, by hand, how to, 139 leathers in Crustacean Hollandaise, 29
Knox brand gelatin, 175 Fruit Leather, 47 in Lobster Roll, 130-131
kombu seaweed, Seaweed Fish Brine, 51 Mango Chili Leather, 47 variations, 40
Korean Pork Belly Skewers, 118 Onion Leather, 47 Sous Vide Crustacean Butter, 40
Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps, 95 Tomato Leather, 47 tails
Korean Wing Sauce, 116 in Lobster Roll, 130-131 best bets for cooking sous vide, 128
in Crispy Chicken Wings, Korean-Style, 112 variations, 47 Sous Vide Lobster Tail, 130
in Korean Pork Belly Skewers, 118 leeks lobster shells and heads
in Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps, 95 Finocchiona Pizza, 143 flavorin,40
in Sichuan Bok Choy, 161-162 Leek and Onion Soup, 76 pigment in, 40
in Spicy Hollandaise, 29 MC Special Sauce, 27 Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter, 40
kumquats, Fruit Salad, 67 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91 in Crustacean Hollandaise, 29
Modernist Vichyssoise, 68-69 in Lobster Roll, 130-131
variations, 68 variations, 40
Pressure-Cooked Carrots and Leeks, 119 Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Stock, 12. See also
in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119 pressure cookers, Pressure-Cooked Crustacean
variations, 119 Stock
Pressure-Cooked Vegetable jus, 77 Pressure-Cooked Lobster Bisque, 40
Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise, 68 Sous Vide Crustacean Butter, 40
Tsukune, 118 lobsters
in Deep-Fried Tsukune Skewers, 118 buying fresh, 128
Vichyssoise with Potato Peel Reduction, 68 freezing, 128
lemon balm, Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 34 how to kill and shell, 128
lemon essential oil juices from, 40
Foamed Lemon Curd, 174 meat of. See lobster meat
Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 174 shells and heads of. See lobster shells and heads
in Lemon Posset, 173 lovage, in Microwave-Fried Parsley, 168
in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 183 Low-Temp Oven Steak, 81
variations, 174 variation, 81
lemon thyme, Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 34 Lu, Margaret, Microwaved Black Cod with Scallions
lemon grass and Ginger, 163
Lemongrass Ginger Infusion, 171
Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 34
Thai Soup, 121
lemons/ lemon zest
Citrus Infusion, 171
Lemon Oil, 36
Lemon Pastry Cream, 181
in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 183
Lemon Posset, 173
Meyer, Fruit Curds, 174
in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 48
lentils, green, Pressure-Cooked Lentil Salad, 74
lettuce
Bibb, Pork Belly B.L.T., 102-103
Boston, Pork Belly B.L.T., 102-103
butter
Green Salad with Romaine Dressing, 70
Green Salad with Romaine Dressing variations,
70
Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps, 95
romaine. See romaine lettuce

207
 MAC AND CHEDDAR

M
Mac and Cheddar, 148
marinades
about, 51
Barbecue Marinade, 51
Kalbi Marinade, 51
Mediterranean Yogurt Marinade, 51
meat grinders (continued)
Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock, 9
in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 120
in Sous Vide Braised Snails, 135
variation, 9
Mac and Cheese, 144 Mexican Marinade, 51 Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat, 41
variations, 144 Vietnamese Marinade, Sl in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119
Mac and Fontina, 148 marinara sauce in Fingerling Potatoes Con fit, 44
Mac and Gruyere, 144 Marinara, 32 in Home Jus Gras, 17
Mac and Parmesan, 148 in Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan, 160 meat tenderizers
Mac with Goat Gouda and Cheddar, 144 variations, 32 food safety with, 2
Mac with Gorgonzola and Fontina, 144 Pineapple Marinara, 32 Sweet Brine for Meats, SO
Mac with jack and Stilton, 144 in Hawaiian Pizza, 140 meatballs, Tsukune, 118
Mac with Sharp Cheddar and Swiss, 144 Strawberry Marinara, 33 in Deep-Fried Tsukune Skewers, 118
macadamia butter marinating attachment, vacuum sealers with meatloaf, Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 92-93
Raspberry Macadamia Nut Sponge, 169 Vacuum-Infused Celery, 49 Mediterranean Vegetable Confit, 44
Strawberry Macadamia Gelato, 177 in Lobster Roll, 130-131 in Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Confit, ISO
macadamia nut oil variation, 49 Mediterranean Yogurt Marinade, 51
Pressure-Cooked Quinoa Salad with Cauliflower, 71 in Waldorf Salad, 49 Mexican Marinade, 51
smoke point of, ix Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 48 Meyer lemons, Fruit Curds, 174
in Sous Vide Tuna Confit, 73 marmalades, savory. See savory marmalades michiu rice wine, Crispy Chicken Wings, Korean-Style,
Strawberry Macadamia Gelato, 177 masa harina 112
macadamia nuts, Green Onion and Sorrel Pes to, 23 Corn Juice Tamales, 158 Microplanes, Parmesan Crisp, 70
macaroni and cheese Hush Puppies, 158 microwave ovens
Baked Mac and Cheese, 146-147 Masa Harina Noodles, 123 Aromatic Microwaved Cod, 163
"Fat-Free" Mac and Cheese, 148-149 in Tortilla Soup, 121 Autumn Flavors Bok Choy, 162
variations, 148 Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales, 158- 159 best bets for cooking vegetables in, 162
Mac and Cheddar, 148 variation, 158 BiltongJerky, 164
Mac and Cheese, 144 mascarpone cheese Bok Choy Medley, 162
variation, 144 Corn juice Grits, 156 Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 167
Mac and Fontina, 148 Creamed Spinach, 82 variation, 167
Mac and Gruyere, 144 in Florentine Omelet Filling, 57 Crispy Beef Strands, 166
Mac and Parmesan, 148 in Mac and Parmesan, 148 in Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 167
Mac with Goat Gouda and Cheddar, 144 variation, 82 Instant Chocolate Sponge, 169
Mac with Gorgonzola and Fontina, 144 Pressure-Cooked Polenta, 156 variations, 169
Mac with Jack and Stilton, 144 variation, 156 Microwaved BeefJerky, 164- 165
Mac with Sharp Cheddar and Swiss, 144 Mason jars. See canning jars variations, 164
mace blades match a green tea, Green Tea Flavoring, 171 Microwaved Black Cod with Scallions and Ginger,
MCCurry Powder, 52. See also MCCurry Powder mayonnaise 163
Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil, 36 Aioli,2S variations, 163
Vindaloo Spice Mix, 52 Bacon Mayonnaise, 25 Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan, 160
in Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 95 in Microwaved Potato Salad, 162 Microwaved Potato Salad, 162
mackerel, best bets for cooking sous vide, 127 in Pork Belly B.L.T., 102-103 Microwaved Sea Bass, Tilapia, Halibut, or Sole, 163
maitake mushrooms in Smoked Bacon B.L.T., 102 Microwave-Fried Parsley, 168
Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine, 154 Modernist Mayonnaise, 25 Peanut Butter Sponge, 169
Funghi Pizza, 140 in Sweet Onion Slaw, 69 Raspberry Macadamia Nut Sponge, 169
Makrud lime leaves, So us Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 34 variations, 25 Sesame Sponge, 169
malic acid Rouille,25 Sichuan Bok Choy, 161 - 162
Barbecue Ketchup, 30 in South of France Chowder, 134 variations, 162
Crustacean Hollandaise, 29 Tartar Sauce, 25 Smoky Jerky, 164
Fruit Minestrone, 66-67 MC Curry Powder, 52 Spicy Jerky, 164
variations, 67 in Kerala Curry Sauce, 26 Middle Eastern Infusion, 171
Garlic Hollandaise, 29 in Mugha l Curry Sauce, 26- 27 milk
Pressure-Caramelized Ketchup, 30 variations, 26 Amaretto Pastry Cream, 181
in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91 in Muslim Curry Sauce, 26 in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 183
variation, 30 variation, 52 Bain-Marie Creme Brlllt~e, 172
Pressure-Infused Celery, 49 MC Special Sauce, 27 Cheese Pastry Cream, 181
Sous Vide Hollandaise, 28-29 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91 Chocolate Pastry Cream, 181
variations, 29 McDonald's Big Mac sauce, 27 in Chocolate Cream Pie, 183
Spicy Hollandaise, 29 meat. See also specific varieties of meat Coffee Creme Brulee, 172- 173
Vacuum-Infused Celery, 49 how to grind like a pro, 87 variations, 172
in Lobster Roll, 130- 131 puncturing, hazards of, 2 Firm Pastry Cream, 181
variation, 49 Sweet Brine for Meats, SO Flan, 172
in Waldorf Salad, 49 tender cuts of, best bets for cooking so us vide, 80 Ginger Pastry Cream, 181
malt powder. See diastatic malt powder tough cuts of, best bets for cooking, 99 in Ginger Cream Pie, 183
Mandarin Flavoring, 171 meat grinders infusions of, how to make, 171
mandarin oranges Brown Chicken Stock, 9 Lemon Pastry Cream, 181
Fruit Curds, 174 in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 120 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 183
Fruit Leather, 47 in Brown Chicken Jus, 16 Onion Fluid Gel, 21
mandolines, Pressure-Cooked Quinoa Salad with in Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 153 variation, 21
Cauliflower, 71 Modernist Hamburger Patty, 88-89 Pot de Creme, 172
mango powder, green, dried, Chaat Masala, 53 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91 Pressure-Infused Coffee Pastry Cream, 181
mangoes, Mango Chili Leather, 47 variation, 88 in Banana Cream Pie, 183
Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 92-93

208
 N-ZORBIT

milk (continued)
Raspberry Panna Cotta, 175
variation, 175
Sabayon, 176
So us Vide Vanilla Creme Anglaise 1 176
Mughal Curry Sauce, 26-27
in Lamb Curry, 104
in Pressure-Cooked Lamb Shanks, 104
variations, 26
mushrooms
N
nails, Pincushion Chicken, 107
variation, 176 button. See button mushrooms Napolitana Pizza, 140
Sous Vide Vanilla-Cinnamon Pastry Cream, crimini. See crimini mushrooms Neapolitan Pizza Dough, 136
180 - 181 Mushroom Jus, 15 variations, 136
in Apple Cream Pie, 183 in Cream of Mushroom Soup, 63 needle -nose pliers, Turkey Confit, 110
variations, 181 in Mushroom Puree, 63 neutral oils, viii
Strawberry Panna Cotta, 67 in Mushroom Soup, 76 nonstick frying pans
Sweet Brine for Meats, 50 Mushroom Puree, 63 Eggs Sunny-Side Up, 62-63
Ultrafrothy Milk Shake, 89 in Cream of Mushroom Soup, 63 variation, 62
Vegetarian Panna Cotta, 175 in Mac and Fontina, 148 Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon, 124
milk shake, Ultrafrothy Milk Shake, 89 in Striped Mushroom Omelet, 60- 61 Steamed Herb Omelet, 58- 59
Mini Egg Cups, 56 variation, 63 Striped Mushroom Omelet, 60-61
mint Mushroom Soup, 76 noodles
Mediterranean Yogurt Marinade, 51 Mushroom Stock, in Barley with Wild Mushrooms Barley Noodles, 123
Mintlnfusion,l71 and Red Wine, 154 Coconut Nood les, 123
Mint Yogurt, 118 portobello, Mushroom Puree, 63. See also in Thai Soup, 121
in Lamb Skewers with Mint Yogurt, 118 mushrooms, Mushroom Puree Fresh Egg Noodles, 122
Napolitana Pizza, 140 in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 48 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119
Roasted Red Pepper Pes to, 23 wild. See chanterelles; morels; oyster mushrooms; variations, 123
Sauce Verte, 23 porcini mushrooms; shiitake mushrooms; wild Masa Harina Noodles, 123
mirin, Yakitori Sauce, 116 mushrooms in Tortilla Soup, 121
in Boneless Yakitori Wings, 114 yellow foot, Funghi Pizza, 140 Potato Noodles, 123
in Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers, 118 Muslim Curry Sauce, 26 Rice Noodles, 123
in Tsukune, 118 mussel juice, 132 Rye Noodles, 123
miso1 white, Mushroom Jus, 15 mussels Whole Wheat Noodles, 123
in Cream of Mushroom Soup, 63 best bets for cooking so us vide, 128 in Chinese Soup, 121
in Mushroom Puree, 63 buying fresh, 128 Nouvelle cuisine movement, 18
in Mushroom Soup, 76 debearding, 129 nuts. See also specific types of nuts
Modernist Cheeseburger, 91 how to shuck, 129 softening, 26
Modernist Hamburger Patty, 88-89 juices from, 132 N-Zorbit, Fish Spice Mix, 54
in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91 MusselsMariniere, 132-133 in Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon, 124
variation, 88 mustard, Honey Mustard Sauce, 115
Modernist Mayonnaise, 25 mustard seeds
in Sweet Onion Slaw, 69 black, Kerala Curry Sauce, 26
variations, 25 Pressure-Cooked Pickled Mustard Seeds, 43
Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 92-93 in Honey Mustard Sauce, 115
Modernist Vichyssoise, 68-69
variations, 68
Modernist Vinaigrette, 35
in Pressure-Cooked Lentil Salad, 74
variations, 35
monosodium glutamate
Aromatic Chicken Broth, 120
in Chicken Nood le Soup, 119
Chinese Soup, 121
Crispy Chicken Wings, Korean-Style, 112
Pho Soup, 121
Montpellier Butter, 38
in Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter, 118
morels
Infused-Cream Potato Puree, 100
Mushroom Puree, 63. See also mushrooms,
Mushroom Puree
Pork Shoulder Fricassee with Apples and Morels, 95
in Shiitake Marmalade, 64
mortar and pestle, Fish Spice Mix, 54
in Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon, 124
mother dough, 138
mounting step, 17
mouthfeel, of fluid gels, 21
mozzarella cheese
Finocchiona Pizza, 143
Funghi Pizza, 140
Genovese Pizza, 143
Hawaiian Pizza, 140
Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan, 160
Napolitana Pizza, 140
Pizza Margherita, 141
MSG. See monosodium glutamate
Muenster cheese, Alsatian Omelet Filling, 57

209
 OATS

0 onions, red
Sous Vide Lamb Skewers, 86
Sweet Onion Slaw, 69
in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 92-93
p
oats, steel-cut in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 48 P. B. & J. Gelato, 177
cooking and parcooking times for, 151 open flame. See also blowtorches; charcoal grills packaging food, for cooking sous vide. See sous vide
Steel-Cut Oats with Sous Vide Braised Snails, 154 Salsa Verde, 31 cooking, packaging food for; vacuum sealers
oils, viii- ix. See also essential oils; specific types of oils orange peel, dried, Autumn Spice Mix, 55 paella
Basic Chili Oil, 36 in Gingerbread Crust, 178 cooking and parcooking times for, 151
for deep-frying, 4 oranges/ orange zest how to parcook and finish, 151
flavorful, viii- ix Citrus Infusion, 171 how to pressure-cook, 151
Garlic Oil, 36 Fruit Curds, 174 Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 153
Ginger Oil, 36 mandarin variations, 154 - 155
Lemon Oil, 36 Fruit Curds, 174 palm sugar
for mayonnaise, 25 Fruit Leather, 47 Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce, 31
neutral, viii Mexican Marinade, 51 in Chicken Breast Satay, 118
Pressure-Cooked Spiced Chili Oil, 36 ouzo, Steel-Cut Oats with Sous Vide Braised Snails, 154 Thai Soup, 121
refined, viii oven probe thermometers. See digital thermometers, Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze, 33
Rosemary Oil, 36 with oven probe pancetta, Potato Noodles, 123
smoke and flash points of, viii Oven-Fried Pizza, variation, 142 panko bread crumbs
Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 34 ovens. See also combi ovens; conventional ovens; Cheese Crumble, 149
So us Vide Spiced Chili Oil, 36 microwave ovens in Baked Mac and Cheese, 146- 147
Thyme Oil, 36 toaster, how to bake salmon in, 125 Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan, 160
unrefined, viii oxtail panna cotta
Vanilla Oil, 36 Brown BeefJus, 16 about, 170
Old-Forge-style pizza, 142 Brown Beef Stock Raspberry Panna Cotta, 175
olive oil in French Onion Soup, 45 variation, 175
Mediterranean Vegetable Confit, 44 in Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps, 95 Strawberry Panna Cotta, 67
Olive Oil Scrambled Eggs, 56 in Pho Soup, 121 Vegetarian Panna Cotta, 175
in Espagnole Omelet Filling, 57 in Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze, 33 pans
Pressure-Cooked Garlic Con fit, 44 jointed, best bets for cooking, 99 frying. See cast-iron skillets; nonstick frying pans
variations, 44 Pressure-Cooked Brown Beef Stock, 10 loaf. See loaf pans
Provenpl Garlic Con fit, 44 variations, 10 paper cups, Instant Chocolate Sponge, 169
smoke point of, ix White Beef Stock, 10 variations, 169
Sous Vide Tuna Con fit, 73 oyster mushrooms, Barley with Wild Mushrooms paprika. See also piment6n, sweet (dulce)
in Tuna Con fit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 73 and Red Wine, 154 hot, Goulash Broth, 121
olives oysters parcooking risotto and paella, how to, 151
black, Farro with Chicken, Artichokes, and Black best bets for cooking sous vide, 128 Parmesan cheese
Olives, 155 Oyster Stew, 134 in Cheese Crumble, 149
Napolitana Pizza, 140 Cheese Crust, 178
omelets in Savory Cheese Pie, 183
fillings for Cilantro Peste, 23
Alsatian Omelet Filling, 57 Mac and Parmesan, 148
Espagnole Omelet Filling, 57 Parmesan Crisp, 70
Florentine Omelet Filling, 57 Pizza Cruda, 143
Raviolo Omelet Filling, 57 Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Steamed Herb Omelet, 58-59 Florentine Omelet Filling, 57
Striped Mushroom Omelet, 60-61 Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan, 160
onions Pistachio Pes to, 22- 23 . See also pistachios, Pistachio
Caramelized Onion Gravy, 24 Pes to
Dried Caramelized Onions, 45 Steel-Cut Oats with Sous Vide Braised Snails, 154
French Onion Soup, 45 parsley
green. See scallions Italian, Sauce Verte, 23
Leek and Onion Soup, 76 Microwave-Fried Parsley, 168
Onion Fluid Gel, 21 parsnips
variation, 21 Apple and Parsnip Soup, 76
Onion Leather, 47 in Pressure-Cooked Carrots and Leeks, 119
pearl. See onions, pearl passion fruit, Passion Fruit Glaze, 182
Pressure-Caramelized Onions, 45 in Coconut Cream Pie, 183
in Alsatian Omelet Filling, 57 pasta. See macaroni and cheese; noodles
in Caramelized Onion Gravy, 24 pasta machines
in Mac and Fontina, 148 Barley Noodles, 123
in Mac with Goat Gouda and Cheddar, 144 Coconut Noodles, 123
in Savory Cheese Pie, 183 in Thai Soup, 121
variations, 45 Fresh Egg Noodles, 122
Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus, 77 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119
Pressure-Cooked Vegetables, in Vegetable Stew, 78 variations, 123
red. See onions, red Masa Harina Noodles, 123
Salsa Verde, 31 in Tortilla Soup, 121
Slow-Baked Chicken with Onions, 105 Potato Noodles, 123
Sweet Onion Slaw, 69 Rice Noodles, 123
in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 92-93 Rye Noodles, 123
onions, pearl Whole Wheat Noodles, 123
Pressure-Cooked Vegetables, 78 in Chinese Soup, 121
in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 48

210
 POPPY SEEDS

pasta sheets, 122 pie crust (continued) pizza

pasteurization, to prevent foodborne illness, 2 Chocolate Crust, 178 Broccoli Raab Pizza, 143
pastis, Steel-Cut Oats with Sous Vide Braised Snails, in Chocolate Cream Pie, 183 Capicola Pizza, 143
154 Coconut Crust, 178 Deep-Dish Fried Pizza, 142
pastry comb, Striped Mushroom Omelet, 60-61 in Coconut Cream Pie, 183 dough for. See pizza dough
pastry cream Double Almond Crust, 178 Finocchiona Pizza, 143
about, 170 in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 183 Funghi Pizza, 140
Amaretto Pastry Cream, 181 Flaky Pie Crust, 178-179 Genovese Pizza, 143
in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 183 variations, 178 Hawaiian Pizza, 140
Cheese Pastry Cream, 181 Gingerbread Crust, 178 how to make, 140
Chocolate Pastry Cream, 181 in Ginger Cream Pie, 183 Napolitana Pizza, 140
in Chocolate Cream Pie, 183 keeping crisp, 178 Oven-Fried Pizza, 142
Coconut Pastry Cream, 181 Peanut Crust, 178 variation, 142
in Coconut Cream Pie, 183 in Banana Cream Pie, 183 Pizza Cruda, 143
Firm Pastry Cream, 181 Raspberry Crust, 178 Pizza Margherita, 141
Ginger Pastry Cream, 181 pie toppings Pizza Sauce, 32
in Ginger Cream Pie, 183 Apple Foam, 182 Uovo Pizza, 143
Lemon Pastry Cream, 181 in Apple Cream Pie, 183 well-cooked, blisters on crust of, 140
in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 183 Blowtorch-Caramelized Bananas, 182 pizza dough
Pressure-Infused Coffee Pastry Cream, 181 in Banana Cream Pie, 183 Breadsticks, 136
in Banana Cream Pie, 183 Caramelized Almonds, 182 Buckwheat Pizza Dough, 136
Sous Vide Vanilla-Cinnamon Pastry Cream, in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 183 how to knead by hand, 139
180-181 Cocoa Nib and Cardamom Dust, 182 Neapolitan Pizza Dough, 136
in Apple Cream Pie, 183 in Chocolate Cream Pie, 183 variations, 136
variations, 181 Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder, 182. See also No· Knead Pizza Dough, 139
peanut butter Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder other uses for, 137
P. B. & J. Gelato, 177 Passion Fruit Glaze, 182 Quinoa Pizza Dough, 136
Peanut Butter Sponge, 169 in Coconut Cream Pie, 183 Rustic Pizza Dough, 137
Peanut Crust, 178 pies, cream. See cream pies variation, 137
in Banana Cream Pie, 183 piment6n, sweet (dulce) troubleshooting tip for, 136
peanut oil Barbecue Marinade, 51 Whole Wheat Pizza Dough, 137
refined, smoke and flash points of, viii Chili Spice Mix, SS pizza peels
roasted, P. B. & J. Gelato, 177 in Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings, 113 Deep-Dish Fried Pizza, 142
unrefined, smoke point of, ix Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 153 Funghi Pizza, 140
peanuts Rouille, 25 Hawaiian Pizza, 140
Peanut Crust, 178 in South of France Chowder, 134 Napolitana Pizza, 140
Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce, 31 Pincushion Chicken, 107 Oven-Fried Pizza, 142
in Chicken Breast Satay, 118 pineapple variation, 142
pears, Fruit Leather, 47 Pineapple Marinara, 32 Pizza Margherita, 141
peas, Quinoa with Pistachio Pesta and Asparagus, 155 in Hawaiian Pizza, 140 Pizza Sauce
pecorino cheese, Raviolo Omelet Filling, 57 Yakitori Sauce, 116 in Capicola Pizza, 143
Pecorino Romano cheese, Uovo Pizza, 143 in Boneless Yakitori Wings, 114 in Funghi Pizza, 140
peppers. See bell peppers; chili peppers; jalapeno in Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers, 118 in Napolitana Pizza, 140
peppers; piquillo peppers in Tsukune, 118 in Pizza Margherita, 141
Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice, 145 pinto beans, dried plastic bags
in French Onion Soup, 45 Refried Bean Foam, 97 safety of, 168
in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91 variations, 97 sealing for cooking sous vide
in Tuna Con fit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 73 Refried Bean Puree, 97 compressing fruits and vegetables for, how to, 7
persimmons, Fruit Leather, 47 piquillo peppers on the edge of a countertop, how to, 6
pes to Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 153 vacuum sealers for. See vacuum sealers
Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pesta, 23 Raspberry Gazpacho, 65 zip-top. See zip· top bags
Cilantro Pesta, 23 roasted, Roasted Red Pepper Pesta, 23 plastic wrap, safety of, 168
Green Onion and Sorrel Pesta, 23 Tomato Sofrito, 32 plate-up and presentation
Pesto Chicken Thigh Skewers, 118 in Espagnole Omelet Filling, 57 Chicken Noodle Soup, 119
Pistachio Pesta, 22-23. See also pistachios, Pistachio pistachio butter, Pistachio Flavoring, 171 Modernist Cheeseburger,91
Pes to pistachio oil platinum gelatin, 175
Roasted Red Pepper Pes to, 23 Pistachio Gelato, 177 pliers, needle-nose, Turkey Confit, 110
Sauce Verte, 23 variations, 177 polenta. See cornmeal
Spinach Pesta, 23 roasted, Pistachio Pesta, 22-23. See also pistachios, polyethylene, safety of, 168
pheasant, Game Bird Jus, 16 Pistachio Pesta pomegranate seeds, dried, Chaat Masala, 53
Pho Soup, 121 smoke point of, ix pommes forestieres, 100
Piave Vecchio cheese, Green Onion and Sorrel Pesta, pistachios poolish
23 Pistachio Gelato, 177 care and feeding of, 138
pickles variations, 177 Poolish, 138
cucumber, spicy, MC Special Sauce, 27 Pistachio Pesta, 22-23 in Rustic Pizza Dough, 137
gherkin, Tartar Sauce, 25 in Genovese Pizza, 143 in Whole Wheat Pizza Dough, 137
pie crust in Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Confit sourdough, 138
Brown Butter Crust, 178 and Basil, 150 Popcorn Infusion, 171
in Apple Cream Pie, 183 in Pesta Chicken Thigh Skewers, 118 poppy seeds, white
Carrot Crust, 178 in Pistachio Clam Chowder, 134 Fish Spice Mix, 54
Cheese Crust, 178 in Quinoa with Pistachio Pes to and Asparagus, in Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon, 124
in Savory Cheese Pie, 183 ISS Mug hal Curry Sauce, 26-27
variations, 23 in Lamb Curry, 104
in Pressure-Cooked Lamb Shanks, 104

211
 PORCIN I MUSHROOMS

porcini mushrooms potatoes (continued) pressure cookers (continued)

Funghi Pizza, 140 in Pressure-Cooked Carrots and Leeks1 119 Fingerling Potatoes Confit, 44
Infused·Cream Potato Puree, 100 Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise, 68 Forbidden Rice with Squid Ink and Sous Vide
Mushroom Jus, IS Sweet Potato Puree, 100 Clams, IS4
in Cream of Mushroom Soup, 63 Vichyssoise with Potato Peel Reduction1 68 French Onion Soup, 45
in Mushroom Puree, 63 poultry. See also specific types of poultry Game Bird Jus, 16
in Mushroom Soup, 76 tender, best bets for cooking, 109 how to parcook and finish risotto and paella, 151
Mushroom Puree, 63. See also mushrooms, tough, best bets for cooking, 110 how to pressure-cook risotto and paella, 151
Mushroom Puree prawn shells and heads how to use,5
Porcini Butter, 39 Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter, 40 Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps, 95
Pork Shoulder Fricassee with Apples and Morels, 95 in Crustacean Hollandaise, 29 Lamb Leg Tajine, 95
in Shiitake Marmalade, 64 in Lobster Roll, 130-131 Leek and Onion Soup, 76
porcini powder variations, 40 Marinara, 32
Bolognese Sauce, 32 So us Vide Crustacean Butter, 40 in Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan, 160
Grilling Spice Mix, 53 prawns variations, 32
pork. See also culatello; ham; pancetta; prosciutto best bets for cooking sous vide, 128 Mediterranean Vegetable Confit, 44
belly. See pork belly Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter, 40 in Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Confit,
bones. See pork bones in Crustacean Hollandaise, 29 ISO
chops, Grilled Pork Chop, 83 in Lobster Roll, 130-131 Montpellier Butter, in Filet Mignon with
ground, Bolognese Sauce, 32 variations, 40 Montpellier Butter, 118
ribs. See also pork, spare ribs So us Vide Crustacean Butter, 40 Mushroom Jus, 15
best bets for cooking, 99 pre-ferment, 138 in Cream of Mushroom Soup, 63
sausage presentation and plate-up in Mushroom Puree, 63
chorizo, Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli- Chicken Noodle Soup, 119 in Mushroom Soup, 76
Gruyere Puree, 1SS Modernist Cheeseburger, 91 Mushroom Soup, 76
Italian, Finocchiona Pizza, 143 pressure cookers Oyster Stew, 134
shoulder. See pork shoulder Apple and Parsnip Soup, 76 parcooking times for rice and grains, 151
skin. See pork skin Arborio Rice with Caramelized Squash and Saffron1 Pineapple Marinara, 32
spare ribs, Brown Pork Stock, 10. See also Brown IS4 in Hawaiian Pizza, 140
Pork Stock Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin and Cocoa, ISS Pistachio Clam Chowder, 134
pork belly Artichoke Soup, 76 Pizza Sauce, 32
best bets for cooking, 99 Barbecue Ketchup, 30 Pork Shoulder Fricassee with Apples and Morels, 9S
Korean Pork Belly Skewers, 118 Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine, 1S4 Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 95
Pork Belly B.L.T., 102-103 Bell Pepper Soup, 76 Pressure-Caramelized Banana Puree, 76
variations, 102 Bolognese Sauce, 32 in Banana Cream Pie, 183
Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly, 102 Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli- Gruyere Pressure-Caramelized Ketchup, 30
Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly Adobo, 98 Puree, 155 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91
So us Vide Pork Belly Adobo, 98 Braised Duck with Steamed Buns, 95 variation, 30
pork bones, Brown Pork Stock, 10. See also Brown Broccoli-Gruyere Soup, 76 Pressure-Caramelized Onions, 45 . See also onions,
Pork Stock in Autumn Flavors Bok Choy, 162 Pressure-Caramelized Onions
pork lard, smoke and flash points of, viii in Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli- variations, 45
pork shoulder Gruyfre Puree, 155 Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce, 31
best bets for cooking, 99 Brown BeefJus, 16 in Chicken Breast Satay, 118
Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 92-93 Brown Beef Stock, 86 Pressure-Cooked Barley, 78
Pork Shoulder Fricassee with Apples and Morels, 95 in French Onion Soup, 45 in Barley Salad, 78
Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 95 in Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps, 95 in Bok Choy Medley, 162
Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 94 in Pho Soup, 121 Pressure-Cooked Brown Beef Stock, 10
Sous Vide Carnitas, 94 in Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze, 33 variations, 10
Whole Shoulder, 94 Brown Chicken Jus, 16 Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 94
pork skin in Home Jus Gras, 17 variations, 94
Crispy Chicken or Pork Skin, 126 in Shiitake Marmalade, 64 Pressure-Cooked Carrots and Leeks1 119
Pressure-Cooked Chicharr6n, 94,96 variations, 16 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119
port wine, Shallot and Port Wine Marmalade, ISO Brown Chicken Stock, 9 variations, 119
in Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot Marmalade1 in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 120 Pressure-Cooked Chicharr6n, 94,96
ISO in Brown Chicken Jus, 16 Pressure-Cooked Chickpea Salad, 72
portobello mushrooms, Mushroom Puree, 63. See also in Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco1 153 Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter, 40
mushrooms, Mushroom Puree Brown Pork Stock, 10. See also Brown Pork Stock in Crustacean Hollandaise, 29
posset Brown Vegetable Stock, 13 in Lobster Roll, 130- 131
about1 170 Buffalo Sauce, 115 variations, 40
Lemon Posset, 173 in Sous Vide Buffalo Wings, 111 Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Stock, 12
Pot de Creme, 172 Caramelized Carrot Soup, 75 in Cheese Grits, 157
potato flour, Potato Noodles, 123 Caramelized Onion Gravy, 24 in Forbidden Rice with Squid Ink and Sous Vide
potato ricers. See ricers Cauliflower Soup, 76 Clams, 154
potato starch Cheese Grits, 157 in Shrimp and Grits, 157
Boneless Yakitori Wings, 114 Clams in Chowder Sauce, 134 in Thai Soup, 121
Crispy Chicken Wings, Korean-Style, 112 variations, 134 Pressure-Cooked Drippings, 24
potatoes cooking times for rice and grains, 151 variation, 24
in Broccoli with Cheese Sauce, 144 Corn Juice Grits, 156 Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales1 158-159
Fingerling Potatoes Confit1 44 Corn Juice Tamales, 158 Pressure-Cooked Garlic Confit, 44. See also garlic,
Garlic Mashed Potatoes, 100 Corn Soup, 76 Pressure-Cooked Garlic Con fit
Infused-Cream Potato Puree, 100 depressurizing, 5 Pressure-Cooked Lamb Shanks, 104
Microwaved Potato Salad, 162 Dried Caramelized Onions, 45 Pressure-Cooked Lentil Salad, 74
Modernist Vichyssoise, 68-69 Farro with Chicken, Artichokes, and Black Olives, Pressure-Cooked Lobster Bisque, 40
Potato Puree, 99, 100-101 ISS Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco1 153

212
 QU INOA FLOUR

pressure cookers (continued)

Pressure-Cooked Pickled Mustard Seeds, 43
in Honey Mustard Sauce, 115
Pressure· Cooked Polenta, 156
variation, 156
purees (continued)
Mushroom Puree, 76. See also mushrooms,
Mushroom Puree
Potato Puree, 99, 100- 101
variations, 100
Q
quail breast, best bets for cooking, 109
Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly, 102 Pressure· Caramelized Banana Puree, 76 quail eggs, Uovo Pizza, 143
Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly Adobo, 98 in Banana Cream Pie, 183 quinces, Fruit Leather, 47
variation, 98 Refried Bean Puree, 97 quinoa
Pressure· Cooked Quinoa Salad with Cauliflower, 71 Squash Puree, 76 cooking and parcooking times for, 1S1
Pressure· Cooked Risotto, 152 in Arborio Rice with Caramelized Squash and Pressure·Cooked Quinoa Salad with Cauliflower, 71
Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus, 77 Saffron, 154 Quinoa with Pistachio Pes to and Asparagus, 1SS
Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Stock, 13 Sweet Potato Puree, 100 quinoa flour, Quinoa Pizza Dough, 136
Pressure· Cooked Vegetables, 77
Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock, 9
in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 120
in Sous Vide Braised Snails, 135
variation, 9
pressure·cooking in canning jars and, 5
Pressure· Rendered Chicken Fat, 41
in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119
in Fingerling Potatoes Confit, 44
in Home Jus Gras, 17
Provenc;al Garlic Con fit, 44
Quinoa with Pistachio Pesto and Asparagus, 1SS
Red Wine Glaze, 20
in Braised Short Ribs, 99
Refried Bean Foam, 97
variations, 97
Refried Bean Puree, 97
Roasted· Potato Vichyssoise, 68
safety tips for, S
Shrimp and Grits, 157
variation, 1S7
softening nuts and seeds in, 26
South of France Chowder, 134
Squash Soup, 76
in Arborio Rice with Caramelized Squash and
Saffron, 154
Steel· Cut Oats with Sous Vide Braised Snails, 1S4
Toasted Corn Stock, 14. See also Toasted Corn Stock
Tomato Sofrito, 32
in Espagnole Omelet Filling, 57
Vichyssoise with Potato Peel Reduction, 68
White Beef Stock, 10
Whole Shoulder, 94
pressure·infusing
Pressure· Infused Celery, 49
Pressure· Infused Coffee Pastry Cream, 181
in Banana Cream Pie, 183
with a whipping siphon, 3
produce. See fruitsi vegetablesi specific fruits and
vegetables
prosciutto
Hawaiian Pizza, 140
Pineapple Marinara, 32
in Hawaiian Pizza, 140
Pizza Cruda, 143
Proven~al Garlic Con fit, 44
Puffed Chicken Skin, 113
pumpkin seed oil, smoke point of, ix
pumpkin seeds, Cilantro Pesto, 23
purees
Apple and Parsnip Puree, 76
Artichoke Puree, 76
Bell Pepper Puree, 76
Broccoli·Gruyfre Soup
in Autumn Flavors Bok Choy, 162
Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli· Gruyere
Puree, I SS
Caramelized Carrot Puree, 7S
Cauliflower Puree, 76
Corn Puree, 76
Infused· Cream Potato Puree, 100
Leek and Onion Puree, 76

213
 RAD ISHES

R
radishes
Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus, 77
ricotta sa lata cheese
Corn Juice Grits, 156
Pressure-Cooked Polenta, 156
variation, 156
Quinoa with Pistachio Pes to and Asparagus, 155
risotto
s
sabayon
about, 170
Pressure-Cooked Vegetables, in Vegetable Stew, 78 cooking times for, 151 Sabayon, 176
in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 48 how to cook, 151 safety. See also food safety
ramekins how to parcook and finish, 151 of plastic bags and wrap in cooking, 168
Bain-Marie Creme BrUiee, 172 how to pressure-cook, 151 safety tips
Coffee Creme Bnilee, 172-173 Pressure-Cooked Risotto, 152 for blowtorches, 2
variations, 172 variations, 154- 155 for canning jars, 5
Plan, 172 Vegetable Risotto, 152 for deep-frying, 4
Pot de Creme, 172 variation, 152 for lightly cooked food, ix
rapeseed oil, smoke and flash points of, viii Roast Chicken, 106-107 for pressure-cooking, 5
raspberries variations, 107 for vacuum sealing, 6
Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder, 182. See also Roasted Red Pepper Pesto, 23 safflower oil, smoke and flash points of, viii
Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise, 68 saffron
Fruit Leather, 47 romaine lettuce Arborio Rice with Caramelized Squash and Saffron,
Fruit Salad, 67 Green Salad with Romaine Dressing, 70 154
Raspberry Flavoring, 171 variations, 70 Middle Eastern Infusion, 171
Raspberry Gazpacho, 65 Herb and Romaine Broth, 70 Muslim Curry Sauce, 26
Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 182, 183 Romanesco, Bok Choy Medley, 162 Tomato Sofrito, 32
Raspberry Macadamia Nut Sponge, 169 root vegetables. See also specific vegetables sage
Raspberry Panna Cotta, 175 best bets for cooking in the microwave oven, 162 in Microwave-Fried Parsley, 168
variation, 175 Rosemary Oil, 36 Uovo Pizza, 143
Raviolo Omelet Filling, 57 Rouille,25 sake, Yakitori Sauce, 116
recipes, scaling, for sodium citrate, 145 in South of France Chowder, 134 in Boneless Yakitori Wings, 114
red wine roux, 18 in Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers, 118
Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine, 154 Rustic Pizza Dough, 137 in Tsukune, 118
Red Wine Glaze, 20 variation, 137 salads
in Braised Short Ribs, 99 rye flour, Rye Noodles, 123 Barley Salad, 78
Redeye Gravy, 19 in Goulash Broth, 121 Beet Salad, 70
in Shrimp and Grits, 157 Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 167
refined oils, viii variation, 167
Refried Bean Foam, 97 Fruit Salad, 67
variations, 97 Green Salad with Romaine Dressing, 70
Refried Bean Puree, 97 variations, 70
reheating, of Braised Short Ribs, 99 Pressure-Cooked Chickpea Salad, 72
rhubarb Pressure-Cooked Lentil Salad, 74
Fruit Minestrone, 66-67 Pressure-Cooked Quinoa Salad with Cauliflower, 71
variations, 67 Sweet Onion Slaw, 69
Fruit Salad, 67 in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 92-93
rice. See also Arborio rice; bomba rice; carnaroli rice; Tuna Confit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 73
forbidden rice; Japanese rice, short-grain; risotto; Waldorf Salad, 49
Vialone Nano rice salmon
cooking and parcooking times for, 151 best bets for cooking sous vide, 127
parcooked, cooling, lSI, 152 Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon, 124
rice bran oil, Rice Noodles, 123 how to bake in a toaster oven, 125
rice flour, Rice Noodles, 123 how to poach in a kitchen sink, 125
in Pho Soup, 121 in Sous Vide Tuna Con fit, 73
rice vinegar salmon skin
Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly Adobo, 98 Baked Fish Skin Chips, 126
Sesame Dressing, 35 Crispy Fish Skin, 126
Vietnamese Marinade, 51 variations, 126
Vietnamese-Style Dressing, 35 Salsa Verde, 31
rice wine salt. See also brines; marinades
Crispy Chicken Wings, Korean-Style, 112 amount in cures, scaling for, 88
Yakitori Sauce, 116 black, Chaat Masala, 53
in Boneless Yakitori Wings, 114 Fish Cure, Sl
in Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers, 118 in marinades, 51
in Tsukune, 118 smoked. See smoked salt
ricers samba! ulek, in Sichuan Bok Choy, 161-162
Garlic Mashed Potatoes, 100 sandwiches
Infused-Cream Potato Puree, 100 Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples,
Potato Puree, 99, 100-101 ISO
variations, 100 Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Ham and
Sweet Potato Puree, 100 Mushrooms, 150
ricotta cheese Crab Roll, 130
Broccoli Raab Pizza, 143 Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Confit, ISO
Florentine Omelet Filling, 57 Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Con fit and
Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan, 160 Basil, ISO
Lobster Roll, 130- 131
variation, 130

214
 SMOKE PO INT

sandwiches (continued) scaling shiitake mushrooms (continued)

Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 92-93 for amount of salt in cures, 88 Shiitake Marmalade, 64
Pork Belly B.L.T., 102-103 of recipes, for sodium citrate, 145 in Beef Short Ribs with Shiitake Marmalade, 118
Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly, 102 scallions in Mini Egg Cups, 56
Shrimp Roll, 130 Aromatic Microwaved Cod, 163 in Striped Mushroom Omelet, 60-61
Smoked Bacon B.L.T., 102 Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pes to, 23 shrimp
Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot Marmalade, Fines Herbes Vinaigrette with Pistachio Butter, 35 best bets for cooking so us vide, 128
150 Green Onion and Sorrel Pes to, 23 in Lobster Roll, 130
Tuna Confit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 73 Microwaved Black Cod with Scallions and Ginger, Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter, 40
White Sandwich Bread, 90-91 163 in Crustacean Hollandaise, 29
in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91 variations, 163 in Lobster Roll, 130- 131
in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 92-93 Microwaved Sea Bass, Tilapia, Halibut, or Sole, I63 variations, 40
sardines, best bets for cooking sous vide, 127 Pistachio Pesta, 22- 23 Shrimp and Grits, 157
sauces. See also gravy; hollandaise sauce; pes to Sweet Onion Slaw, 69 variation, 157
Aerated Blue Cheese Sauce, 117 in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 92- 93 Shrimp Roll, 130
Blue Cheese Sauce, 117 scallops, best bets for cooking sous vide, 128 So us Vide Crustacean Butter, 40
variation, 117 schmaltz, 41 shrimp shells and heads
Bolognese Sauce, 32 Scrambled Egg Pudding, 56 Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter, 40
Buffalo Sauce, 115 in Steamed Herb Omelet, 58-59 in Crustacean Hollandaise, 29
in Sous Vide Buffalo Wings, 111 sea bass, Microwaved Sea Bass, Tilapia, Halibut, or in Lobster Roll, 130 - 131
Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 21 Sole, 163 variations, 40
finishing or mounting, 17 sea urchin, Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin and Cocoa, Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Stock, 12. See also
Home Jus Gras, 17 lSS pressure cookers, Pressure-Cooked Crustacean
variation, 17 seafood. See specific types of seafood Stock
Honey Mustard Sauce, 115 seaweed, Seaweed Fish Brine, 51 So us Vide Crustacean Butter, 40
Kerala Curry Sauce, 26 seeds. See also specific types of seeds Sichuan Bok Choy, 161- 162
Korean Wing Sauce, II6. See also Korean Wing softening, 26 variations, I62
Sauce sesame oil, toasted silicone mats
Marinara, 32 Sesame Dressing, 35 Aged White Cheddar Cheese Slice, !SO
variations, 32 Sesame Sponge, 169 in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with
MC Special Sauce, 27 smoke point of, ix Apples, !SO
in Modernist Cheeseburger, 9I Spiced Chili Dressing, 35 Baked Fish Skin Chips, 126
Mughal Curry Sauce, 26-27 Spicy Hollandaise, 29 Camembert and Gruyere Cheese Slice, 150
in Lamb Curry, 104 sesame seeds, Fish Spice Mix, 54 in Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with
in Pressure-Cooked Lamb Shanks, I04 in Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon, I24 Ham and Mushrooms, ISO
variations, 26 shallots Cheese Crumble, 149
Muslim Curry Sauce, 26 Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 167 in Baked Mac and Cheese, 146-147
Onion Fluid Gel, 21 variation, I67 Feta Cheese Slice, !SO
variation, 21 Crispy Shallots, 167 in Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Confit,
Pineapple Marinara, 32 MC Special Sauce, 27 !SO
in Hawaiian Pizza, 140 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91 Goat Cheese Slice, !SO
variations, 32 Mughal Curry Sauce, 26- 27 in Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Con fit
Pizza Sauce, 32 variations, 26 and Basil, 150
Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce, 31 Onion Fluid Gel, 21 Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice, 145
in Chicken Breast Satay, 118 variation, 21 in French Onion Soup, 45
Salsa Verde, 3I Onion Leather, 47 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91
sauce soubise, 21 Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce, 31 in Tuna Confit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich,
Sauce Verte, 23 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus, 77 73
Strawberry Marinara, 33 Shallot and Port Wine Marmalade, 1SO Stilton Cheese Slice, 150
Tartar Sauce, 25 in Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot in Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot
Tomato Sofrito, 32 Marmalade, 150 Marmalade, 150
in Espagnole Omelet Filling, 57 Shaoxing wine Striped Mushroom Omelet, 60-61
Ultrastable Butter Sauce, 17 Aromatic Microwaved Cod, 163 Tomato Confit, in Goat Cheese on Baguette with
Yakitori Sauce, 116 Chinese Soup, 121 Tomato Confit and Basil, ISO
in Boneless Yakitori Wings, I14 Korean Wing Sauce, 116. See also Korean Wing silver gelatin, 175
in Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers, 118 Sauce sinks, how to poach salmon in, 125
in Tsukune, 118 Microwaved Black Cod with Scallions and Ginger, skewers
sausage 163 Beef Short Ribs with Shiitake Marmalade, 118
chorizo, Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli- variations, 163 Chicken Breast Satay, 118
Gruyere Puree, ISS Microwaved Sea Bass, Tilapia, Halibut, or Sole, 163 Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers, I18
Italian, Finocchiona Pizza, 143 Sichuan Bok Choy, 161-162 Deep· Fried Tsukune Skewers, 118
Savory Cheese Pie, 183 variations, 162 Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter, Il8
savory marmalades sheetgelatin,17S Korean Pork Belly Skewers, 118
about, 64 shellfish. See also specificshelljish Lamb Skewers with Mint Yogurt, 118
Shallot and Port Wine Marmalade, !SO best bets for cooking sous vide, 128 Pesto Chicken Thigh Skewers, 118
in Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot buying fresh, 128 Sous Vide Lamb Skewers, 86
Marmalade, ISO smell of, 128 skillets. See cast-iron skillets; nonstick frying pans
Shiitake Marmalade, 64 shiitake mushrooms slaw, Sweet Onion Slaw, 69
in Beef Short Ribs with Shiitake Marmalade, 118 Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine, 154 in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 92- 93
in Mini Egg Cups, 56 Infused-Cream Potato Puree, 100 Slow-Baked Chicken with Onions, lOS
in Striped Mushroom Omelet, 60- 61 Mushroom Puree, 63. See also mushrooms, smoke point
Savory Poultry Brine, SO Mushroom Puree deep-frying and, 4
scales, digital, how to tare, 2 Mushroom Soup, 76 of flavorful oils, ix
Rye Noodles, 123 of neutral oils, viii

215
 SMOKED BACON B.L.T.

Smoked Bacon B.L.T., 102 sour cream, Sweet Onion Slaw, 69 sous vide setup (continued)
smoked salt in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 92- 93 Ginger Oil, 36
Grilling Spice Mix, 53 Sourdough International, 138 Ginger Pastry Cream, 181
Redeye Gravy, 19 sourdough starters1 138 in Ginger Cream Pie, 183
in Shrimp and Grits, 157 sous vide cooking Gingerbread Crust, 178
Smoky Jerky, 164 how to check the core temperature during, 8 in Ginger Cream Pie, 183
snails packaging food for Green Salad with Romaine Dressing, 70
Snails with Porridge dish of Heston Blumenthal, 154 how to compress fruits and vegetables for, 7 variations, 70
Sous Vide Braised Snails, 135 how to seal food in a zip-top bag and 1 6 Grilled Applesauce, 42
in Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 153 vacuum sealers for. See vacuum sealers in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with
in Steel-Cut Oats with Sous Vide Braised Snails, setup for. See sous vide setup Apples, ISO
154 water baths for. See water baths Grilled Pork Chop, 83
snapper, best bets for cooking sous vide, 127 so us vide setup Infused-Cream Potato Puree, 100
sodium citrate Aioli,2S Korean Pork Belly Skewers, 118
Aerated Blue Cheese Sauce, 117 Amaretto Pastry Cream, 181 Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps, 95
Aged White Cheddar Cheese Slice, ISO in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 183 Lamb Curry, 104
in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Bacon Brown Sugar Infusion, 171 Lamb Leg Tajine, 95
Apples, ISO Bacon Mayonnaise, 25 Lamb Skewers with Mint Yogurt, 118
Baked Mac and Cheese, 146-147 in Microwaved Potato Salad, 162 Lemon Oil, 36
Blue Cheese Sauce, 117 in Pork Belly B.L.T., 102-103 Lemon Pastry Cream, 181
variation, 117 in Smoked Bacon B.L.T., 102 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 183
Broccoli with Cheese Sauce, 144 Baked Fish Skin Chips, 126 Lobster Roll, 130-131
Camembert and Gruyere Cheese Slice, 150 Basic Chili Oil, 36 variation1 130
in Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Beef Short Ribs with Shiitake Marmalade, 118 Mac and Cheddar, 148
Ham and Mushrooms, ISO Beet Salad, 70 Mac and Fontina, 148
Cheese Crumble, 149 Boneless Yakitori Wings, 114 Mac and Parmesan 1 148
in Baked Mac and Cheese, 146-147 Braised Short Ribs, 99 Mini Egg Cups, 56
Feta Cheese Slice, 150 Brown Butter Crust1 178 Mint Infusion, 171
in Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Confit, in Apple Cream Pie, 183 Modernist Hamburger Patty, 88- 89
ISO Brown Fish Stock, 11 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91
Fondue, 144 Brown Vegetable Stock, 13 variation, 88
Goat Cheese Slice, ISO Carrot Crust, 178 Modernist Mayonnaise, 25
in Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Confit Cheese Crust, 178 in Sweet Onion Slaw, 69
and Basil, ISO in Savory Cheese Pie, 183 variations, 25
Mac and Cheese, 144 Cheese Grits, 157 Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 92-93
variation, 144 Cheese Pastry Cream, 181 Modernist Vichyssoise1 68-69
Mac and Gruyere, 144 Chicken Breast Satay, 118 variations, 68
Mac with Goat Gouda and Cheddar, 144 Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers1 118 Montpellier Butter1 38
Mac with Gorgonzola and Fontina, 144 Chocolate Crust, I 78 in Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter, 118
Mac with Jack and Stilton, 144 in Chocolate Cream Pie, 183 MusselsMarinihe, 132-133
Mac with Sharp Cheddar and Swiss, 144 Chocolate Pastry Cream, 181 Olive Oil Scrambled Eggs, 56
Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice, 145 in Chocolate Cream Pie1 183 in Espagnole Omelet Filling, 57
in French Onion Soup1 45 Coconut Crust, 178 Onion Fluid Gel, 21
in Modernist Cheeseburger1 91 in Coconut Cream Pie1 183 variation, 21
in Tuna Con fit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 73 Coconut Pastry Cream, 181 Peanut Crust, 178
scaling for, 145 in Coconut Cream Pie, 183 in Banana Cream Pie, 183
Stilton Cheese Slice, ISO Coffee Butter, 39 Pesto Chicken Thigh Skewers, 118
in Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot Coffee Creme Brulee, 172-173 Porcini Butter, 39
Marmalade, 150 variations, 172 Pork Belly B.L.T., 102-103
softening nuts and seeds, 26 Crispy Chicken or Pork Skin, 126 Pork Shoulder Fricassee with Apples and Morels, 95
sole Crispy Fish Skin, 126 Pot de Creme, 172
best bets for cooking sous vide1 127 variations, 126 Potato Noodles, 123
Microwaved Sea Bass1 Tilapia, Halibut, or Sole, 163 Crustacean Hollandaise, 29 Potato Puree, 99, 100-101
sorrel, Green Onion and Sorrel Pes to, 23 Deviled Eggs, 62 variations, 100
soups. See also chowders; stews Double Almond Crust, 178 Pressure-Infused Coffee Pastry Cream, 181
Apple and Parsnip Soup, 76 in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 183 in Banana Cream Pie, 183
Artichoke Soup, 76 Eggs Sunny-Side Up, 62-63 Puffed Chicken Skin, 113
Bell Pepper Soup, 76 Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 21 Raspberry Crust1 178
Broccoli- Gruyere Soup, 76 "Fat-Free" Mac and Cheese, 148- 149 Raspberry Gazpacho, 65
Caramelized Carrot Soup, 75 variations, 148 Rosemary Oil1 36
Cauliflower Soup1 76 Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter, 118 Rouille, 25
Chinese Soup, 121 Firm Pastry Cream, 181 in South of France Chowder, 134
cold. See cold soups Flaky Pie Crust, 178-179 Sabayon, 176
Corn Soup, 76 variations, 178 Scrambled Egg Pudding, 56
Cream of Mushroom Soup1 63 Plan, 172 in Steamed Herb Omelet, 58 - 59
French Onion Soup, 45 Foamed Lemon Curd, 174 Shrimp and Grits, I 57
Leek and Onion Soup, 76 Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon, 124 variation, 157
Mushroom Soup, 76 French Scrambled Eggs, 56 Smoked Bacon B.L.T., 102
Pho Soup, 121 in Striped Mushroom Omelet, 60-61 Sous Vide Braised Snails, 135
Pressure-Cooked Lobster Bisque, 40 variations, 56 in Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 153
Squash Soup, 76 Fruit Curds1 174 in Steel-Cut Oats with Sous Vide Braised Snails,
in Arborio Rice with Caramelized Squash and Garlic Hollandaise, 29 154
Saffron, 154 Garlic Mashed Potatoes, IOO Sous Vide Buffalo Wings, Ill
Thai Soup, 121 Garlic Oil, 36 Sous Vide Carnitas, 94
Tortilla Soup, 121

216
 STRIPED MUSHROOM OMELET

sous vide setup (continued) spice mixes stand mixers, with whisk
Sous Vide Chicken, 108 Autumn Spice Mix, 55 Corn juice Tamales, 158
in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119 in Gingerbread Crust, 178 Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales, 158-159
in Farro with Chicken, Artichokes, and Black Chaat Mas ala, 53 variation, 158
Olives, 155 Chili Spice Mix, 55 star anise
So us Vide Crustacean Butter, 40 in Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings, 113 Aromatic Chicken Broth, 120
So us Vide Fish Stock, 11 Fish Spice Mix, 54 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119
in Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin and Cocoa, 155 in Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon, 124 Autumn Spice Mix, 55
in Bell Pepper Soup, 76 Grilling Spice Mix, 53 in Gingerbread Crust, 178
variation, 11 MC Curry Powder, 52. See also MC Curry Powder Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly Adobo, 98
So us Vide Hollandaise, 28-29 Vindaloo Spice Mix, 52 So us Vide Pork Belly Adobo, 98
variations, 29 in Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 95 Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze, 33
Sous Vide Lamb Skewers, 86 spice pastes, Achiote Paste, 96 starch. See also flour
Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 174 in Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 94 potato
in Lemon Posset, 173 Spiced Chili Dressing, 35 Boneless Yakitori Wings, 114
in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 183 Spicy Hollandaise, 29 Crispy Chicken Wings, Korean-Style, 112
variations, 174 Spicy Jerky, 164 tapioca. See tapioca starch
Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 34 spinach starter cultures. See poolish
So us Vide Lobster Tail, 130 Cilantro Pesto, 23 Steamed Herb Omelet, 58- 59
So us Vide Pork Belly Adobo, 98 Creamed Spinach, 82 steel plates, Pizza Margherita, 141
Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil, 36 in Florentine Omelet Filling, 57 Steel-Cut Oats with Sous Vide Braised Snails, 154
in Deep-Fried Tsukune Skewers, 118 in Mac and Parmesan, 148 Steingarten,Jeffrey, Potato Puree, 100
in Sichuan Bok Choy, 161 - 162 variation, 82 stews
in Spiced Chili Dressing, 36 in Microwave-Fried Parsley, 168 Oyster Stew, 134
variations, 36 Pistachio Pesto, 22- 23 Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly Adobe, 98
So us Vide Steak, 79 Spinach Butter, 39 variation, 98
Sous Vide Steak in a Cooler, 80 in Bok Choy Medley, 162 Sous Vide Pork Belly Adobo, 98
Sous Vide Tuna Confit, 73 Spinach Pesto, 23 Stilton cheese
in Tuna Confit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, squab breast, best bets for cooking, 109 MacwithJackand Stilton, 144
73 squash Stilton Cheese Slice, 150
So us Vide Turkey Breast, 109 butternut, Squash Soup, 76 in Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot
Sous Vide Vanilla Creme Anglaise, 176 in Arborio Rice with Caramelized Squash and Marmalade, 150
variation, 176 Saffron, !54 stocks
Sous Vide Vanilla-Cinnamon Pastry Cream, delicata, Squash Soup, 76 Brown Beef Stock
180-181 in Arborio Rice with Caramelized Squash and in French Onion Soup, 45
in Apple Cream Pie, 183 Saffron, 154 in Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps, 95
variations, 181 zucchini, Mediterranean Vegetable Confit, 44 in Pho Soup, 121
Spicy Hollandaise, 29 in Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Confit, in Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze, 33
Sweet Potato Puree, 100 ISO Brown Chicken Stock, 9
Tartar Sauce, 25 squid ink, Forbidden Rice with Squid Ink and So us in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 120
Thyme Oil, 36 Vide Clams, 154 in Brown Chicken Jus, 16
Turkey Confit, 110 stand mixers in Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 153
Vanilla Oil, 36 with dough hook. See stand mixers, with dough hook Brown Pork Stock, 10. See also Brown Pork Stock
Vegetable Stock, 13. See also vegetables, Vegetable with meat-grinding attachment. See meat grinders Brown Vegetable Stock, 13
Stock Montpellier Butter, 38 fish. See fish stock
South Indian Watercress, 82 in Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter, 118 flavors in, 13
South of France Chowder, 134 with paddle. See stand mixers, with paddle Pressure-Cooked Brown Beef Stock, 10
soy lecithin, liquid with whisk. See stand mixers, with whisk variations, 10
Cherry Vinaigrette, 35 stand mixers, with dough hook Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Stock, 12. See also
Cilantro Vinaigrette, 35 Barley Noodles, 123 pressure cookers, Pressure-Cooked Crustacean
Fines Herbes Vinaigrette with Pistachio Butter, 35 Coconut Noodles, 123 Stock
Home jus Gras, 17 in Thai Soup, 121 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Stock, 13
variation, 17 Fresh Egg Noodles, 122 Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock, 9
Modernist Vinaigrette, 35 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119 in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 120
in Pressure-Cooked Lentil Salad, 74 variations, 123 in Sous Vide Braised Snails, 135
variations, 35 Masa Harina Noodles, 123 variation, 9
Sesame Dressing, 35 in Tortilla Soup, 121 Toasted Corn Stock, 14. See also Toasted Corn Stock
soy lecithin powder vs., 17 Neapolitan Pizza Dough, 136 Vegetable Stock, 13. See also vegetables, Vegetable
Spiced Chili Dressing, 35 variations, 136 Stock
Ultrastable Butter Sauce, 17 Potato Noodles, 123 White Beef Stock, 10
Vietnamese-Style Dressing, 35 Quinoa Pizza Dough1 136 Stove-Top Carotene Butter, 39
soy lecithin powder Rice Noodles, 123 in Caramelized Carrot Soup, 75
liquid soy lecithin vs., 17 Rustic Pizza Dough, 137 variations, 39
using, 17 variation, 137 strawberries
soy sauce Rye Noodles, 123 Cheese Course, 67
Crispy Beef Strands, 166 White Sandwich Bread, 90-91 Fruit Minestrone, 66-67
in Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 167 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91 variations, 67
Kalbi Marinade, 51 in Modernist MeatloafSandwich,92- 93 Fruit Salad, 67
Sesame Dressing, 35 Whole Wheat Noodles, 123 P. B.&]. Gelato, 177
Vietnamese-Style Dressing, 35 in Chinese Soup, 121 Strawberry Juice with Green Apple Foam, 67
soybean oil, smoke and flash points of, viii Whole Wheat Pizza Dough, 137 Strawberry Macadamia Gelato, 177
Spatchcock Chicken, 107 stand mixers, with paddle, White Sandwich Bread, Strawberry Marinara, 33
spice grinders. See coffee grinders 90-91 Strawberry Panna Cotta, 67
in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91 Striped Mushroom Omelet, 60-61
in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 92-93

217
 SUGAR

T
sugar toaster ovens, how to bake salmon in, 125
brown tomatillos, Salsa Verde, 31
Bacon Brown Sugar Infusion, 171 tomato juice
Barbecue Ketchup, 30 Barbecue Marinade, 51
Fish Brine, 51 tahini Sous Vide Lamb Skewers, 86
variations, 51 Cilantro Vinaigrette, 35 tomatoes
Fish Cure, 51 Sesame Sponge, 169 Barbecue Ketchup, 30
palm. See palm sugar tajine, Lamb Leg Tajine, 95 Bolognese Sauce, 32
Seaweed Fish Brine, 51 tamales Goulash Broth, 121
Sweet Brine for Meats, SO Corn Juice Tamales, 158 Kerala Curry Sauce, 26
sumac, Sous Vide Lamb Skewers, 86 Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales, 158 - 159 Marinara, 32
sunchokes (Jerusalem artichokes) variation, 158 in Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan, 160
Artichoke Soup, 76 tamarind, Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze, 33 variations, 32
in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 48 tapioca maltodextrin, Fish Spice Mix, 54 Mughal Curry Sauce, 26-27
sunflower oil, smoke and flash points of, viii in Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon, 124 in Lamb Curry, 104
Sweet Brine for Meats, SO tapioca starch in Pressure-Cooked Lamb Shanks, 104
Sweet Onion Slaw, 69 Cheese Crumble, 149 variations, 26
in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 92-93 in Baked Mac and Cheese, 146-147 Muslim Curry Sauce, 26
sweet potatoes, Sweet Potato Puree, 100 Hazelnut Gelato, 177 Pineapple Marinara, 32
Swiss cheese, Mac with Sharp Cheddar and Swiss, 144 P. B. &J. Gelato, 177 in Hawaiian Pizza, 140
swordfish, in Sous Vide Tuna Con fit, 73 Pistachio Gelato, 177 Pizza Cruda, 143
syringes. See brine injectors and syringes variations, 177 Pizza Sauce, 32
Strawberry Macadamia Gelato, 177 Pork Belly B.L.T., 102- 103
tarragon, Fines Herbes Vinaigrette with Pistachio Pressure-Caramelized Ketchup, 30
Butter,3S in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91
Tartar Sauce, 25 variation, 30
tea Strawberry Marinara, 33
Earl Grey Tea Infusion, 171 sun-dried, Mac and Parmesan, 148
green, matcha, Green Tea Flavoring, 171 Tomato Confit, 46
temperature in Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Confit
of conventional ovens, how to calibrate, 4 and Basil, ISO
cooking in Tomato Leather, 47
government agency guidelines for, ix Tomato Leather, 47
safe, 2 in Lobster Roll, 130-131
for cooking tender poultry, 109 variations, 47
cooking times and, ix Tomato Sofrito, 32
for cooking tough poultry, 110 in Espagnole Omelet Filling, 57
core. See core temperatures Tortilla Soup, 121
for deep-frying, 4 Tortilla Soup, 121
internal, for grilling steak, 85 tough cuts of meat
lightness of foams and, 29 best bets for cooking, 99
for making lemon curd, 174 core temperature for cooking sous vide, 99
poolish and, 138 tough poultry, best bets for cooking, 110
of water baths, lightness of foam and, 29 trumpet mushrooms, black, Mushroom Puree, 63 .
tender cuts of meat, best bets for cooking so us vide, 80 See also mushrooms, Mushroom Puree
tender poultry, best bets for cooking sous vide, 109 Tsukune, 118
Thai basil, Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze, 33 in Deep-Fried Tsukune Skewers, 118
in Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 167 tuna
Thai chilies best bets for cooking sous vide, 127
Mango Chili Leather, 47 Sous Vide Tuna Con fit, 73
Vietnamese Marinade, Sl in Tuna Confit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich,
Thai Soup, 121 73
thermometers Tuna Con fit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 73
for deep-frying, 4 turkey
digital. See digital thermometers breast
instant-read, checking core temperature in a zip-top best bets for cooking, 109
bag using, 8 So us Vide Turkey Breast, 109
oven probe. See digital thermometers, with oven legs
probe best bets for cooking, 110
thickening Turkey Confit, 110
with Ultra-Sperse 3, 82 wings, best bets for cooking, 110
with Wondra, 18 turmeric, fresh
Thompson, David, Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 167 Kerala Curry Sauce, 26
thyme Mughal Curry Sauce, 26-27
Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pesta, 23 in Lamb Curry, 104
lemon, Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 34 in Pressure-Cooked Lamb Shanks, 104
Thyme0il,36 variations, 26
tilapia, Microwaved Sea Bass, Til apia, Halibut, or Sole, Muslim Curry Sauce, 26
163 turnips
Toasted Corn Stock, 14 in Pressure-Cooked Carrots and Leeks, 119
in Corn Soup, 76 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus, 77
in Hush Puppies, 158 Pressure-Cooked Vegetables, in Vegetable Stew, 78
in Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales, 158-159
in Pressure-Cooked Polenta, 156

218
 VITAL WHEAT GLUTEN

u
Ultrafrothy Milk Shake, 89
Ultra-Sperse 3, 82
v
vacuum sealers
Baked Fish Skin Chips, 126
vegetables (continued)
Vegetable Stock, 13
in Cauliflower Soup, 76
in Farro with Chicken, Artichokes, and Black
Olives, ISS
in Pressure-Cooked Risotto, 152
Ultrastable Butter Sauce, 17 Barley Noodles, 123 in Quinoa with Pistachio Pes to and Asparagus,
Uovo Pizza, 143 Boneless Yakitori Wings, 114 ISS
U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), cooking Braised Short Ribs, 99 variations, 13
temperature guidelines of, ix Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers, 118 in Vegetable Risotto, 152
U.S. Food and Drug Administration, cooking Coconut Noodles, 123 Vegetarian Panna Cotta, 175
temperature guidelines of, ix in Thai Soup, 121 velveting, 112
Crispy Chicken or Pork Skin, 126 venison, in Microwaved Beef]erky, 164-165
Crispy Fish Skin, 126 Vialone Nano rice
variations, 126 cooking and parcooking times for, 151
Fresh Egg Noodles, 122 Pressure-Cooked Risotto, 152
in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119 Vegetable Risotto, 152
variations, 123 variation, 152
Lamb Curry, 104 vichyssoise
with marinating attachment. See vacuum sealers, Modernist Vichyssoise, 68-69
with marinating attachment variations, 68
Masa Harina Noodles, 123 Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise, 68
in Tortilla Soup, 121 Vichyssoise with Potato Peel Reduction, 68
Modernist Vichyssoise, 68 - 69 Vietnamese Marinade, 51
variations1 68 Vietnamese-Style Dressing, 35
Pork Belly B.L.T., 102- 103 vinaigrettes
Potato Noodles, 123 Cherry Vinaigrette, 35
Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly, 102 Cilantro Vinaigrette, 35
Rice Noodles, 123 Fines Herbes Vinaigrette with Pistachio Butter, 35
Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise, 68 Modernist Vinaigrette, 35
Smoked Bacon B.L.T., 102 in Pressure-Cooked Lentil Salad, 74
Sous Vide Buffalo Wings, Ill variations, 35
Tomato Confit, 46 Vindaloo Spice Mix, 52
in Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Confit in Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 95
and Basil, ISO vital wheat gluten
in Tomato Leather, 47 Barley Noodles, 123
Turkey Confit, 110 Buckwheat Pizza Dough, 136
Vichyssoise with Potato Peel Reduction, 68 Coconut Noodles, 123
Whole Wheat Noodles, 123 in Thai Soup, 121
in Chinese Soup, 121 Fresh Egg Noodles, 122
vacuum sealers, with marinating attachment in Chicken Noodle Soup, 119
Vacuum-Infused Celery, 49 variations, 123
in Lobster Roll, 130-131 Masa Harina Noodles, 123
variation, 49 in Tortilla Soup, 121
in Waldorf Salad, 49 Neapolitan Pizza Dough, 136
Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 48 variations, 136
vacuum sealing, safety tips for, 6 No-Knead Pizza Dough, 139
vacuum storage containers, Vacuum-Pickled Potato Noodles, 123
Vegetables, 48 QuinoaPizzaDough, 136
vacuum-sealed bags, checking core temperature in, 8 Rice Noodles, 123
vanilla seeds Rustic Pizza Dough, 137
Cinnamon Vanilla Infusion, 171 variation, 137
So us Vide Vanilla Creme Anglaise, 176 Rye Noodles, 123
variation, 176 Whole Wheat Noodles, 123
Sous Vide Vanilla-Cinnamon Pastry Cream, in Chinese Soup, 121
180- 181 Whole Wheat Pizza Dough, 137
in Apple Cream Pie, 183
variations, 181
Vanilla Oil, 36
vegetables. See also specific vegetables
best bets for cooking in the microwave oven, 162
Brown Vegetable Stock, 13
how to compress for vacuum sealing, 7
in Pressure-Cooked Carrots and Leeks, 119 •
Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus, 77
Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Stock, 13
Pressure-Cooked Vegetables, 77
in Vegetable Stew, 78
in Vacuum-Infused Celery, 49
variation, 49
Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 48
Vegetable Risotto, 152
variation, 152

219
 WALDORF SALAD

w
Waldorf Salad, 49
walnut oil, smoke point of, ix
White Sandwich Bread, 90-91
in Modernist Cheeseburger, 91
in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 92-93
white wine vinegar, Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 48
Whole Lamb Shank, 104
Whole Shoulder, 94
xanthan gum (continued)
Mango Chili Leather, 47
Onion Leather, 47
for pan gravy, 18
Passion Fruit Glaze, 182
in Coconut Cream Pie, 183
walnuts whole wheat flour P. B. & ). Gelato, 177
Sauce Verte, 23 Poolish, 138 Pistachio Gelato, 177
Waldorf Salad, 49 in Rustic Pizza Dough, 137 variations, 177
water baths. See also sous vide cooking; so us vide setup in Whole Wheat Pizza Dough, 137 Pistachio Pes to, 22-23. See also pistachios,
temperature of, lightness of foams and, 29 Whole Wheat Noodles, 123 Pistachio Pesta
water displacement, how to seal food in a zip-top in Chinese Soup, 121 Pressure-Caramelized Ketchup, 30
bag by, 6 Whole Wheat Pizza Dough, 137 in Modernist Cheeseburger,91
watercress, South Indian Watercress, 82 wild mushrooms. See also chanterelles; maitake variation, 30
wet-rendering fats, 41 mushrooms; morels; oyster mushrooms; porcini Pressure-Cooked Drippings, 24
wheat gluten. See vital wheat gluten mushrooms; shiitake mushrooms variation, 24
whey protein isolate Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine, 154 Raspberry Gazpacho, 65
Clams in Chowder Sauce, 134 Funghi Pizza, 140 Roasted Red Pepper Pesto, 23
variations, 134 wine Sauce Verte, 23
Oyster Stew, 134 port, Shallot and Port Wine Marmalade, ISO South Indian Watercress, 82
Pistachio Clam Chowder, 134 in Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot Spinach Pesto, 23
South of France Chowder, 134 Marmalade, 150 Strawberry Macadamia Gelato, 177
Ultrafrothy Milk Shake, 89 red Strawberry Panna Cotta, 67
whipping siphons Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine, 154 Tomato Leather, 47
Aerated Blue Cheese Sauce, 117 Red Wine Glaze. See red wine, Red Wine Glaze in Lobster Roll, 130-131
Apple Foam, 182 rice. See rice wine variations, 47
in Apple Cream Pie, 183 Shaoxing. See Shaoxing wine Ultrastable Butter Sauce, 17
BiltongJerky, 164 Wondra Vegetarian Panna Cotta, I 75
Chocolate Cream Pie, 182, 183 Aerated Blue Cheese Sauce, 117
Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings, 113 Blue Cheese Sauce, 117
Crustacean Hollandaise, 29
Foamed Lemon Curd, 174
foaming with, 3
French Scrambled Eggs, 56
variation, 117
Creamed Spinach, 82
in Florentine Omelet Filling, 57
in Mac and Parmesan, 148
y
in Striped Mushroom Omelet, 60-61 variation, 82 Yakitori Sauce, 116
variations, 56 Crispy Chicken Wings, Korean-Style, I 12 in Boneless Yakitori Wings, 114
Fruit Curds, 174 Instant Chocolate Sponge, 169 in Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers, 118
Garlic Hollandaise, 29 variations, 169 in Tsukune, 118
how to use, 3 pan gravy, 18 yellow foot mushrooms, Funghi Pizza, I40
Instant Chocolate Sponge, 169 Peanut Butter Sponge, 169 yogurt
variations, 169 Raspberry Macadamia Nut Sponge, 169 Mediterranean Yogurt Marinade, 51
Microwaved BeefJerky, 164-165 Sesame Sponge, 169 Mint Yogurt, 118
variations, 164 South Indian Watercress, 82

z
Mini Egg Cups, 56 Stilton Cheese Slice, ISO
Olive Oil Scrambled Eggs, 56 in Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot
in Espagnole Omelet Filling, 57 Marmalade, 150
Pressu re-Infused Celery, 49 thickening with, 18
Pressure-Infused Coffee Pastry Cream, 181 Tsukune, 263
in Banana Cream Pie, 183 00 flour
Refried Bean Foam, 97 Barley Noodles, 123

X
variations, 97 Buckwheat Pizza Dough, 136
Refried Bean Puree, 97 Coconut Noodles, 123
Sabayon, 176 in Thai Soup, 121
Smoky Jerky, 164 Masa Harina Noodles, 123
Sous Vide Hollandaise, 28-29 xanthangum in Tortilla Soup, 121
variations, 29 Bacon Mayonnaise, 25 Neapolitan Pizza Dough, 136
Sous Vide Lamb Skewers, 86 in Microwaved Potato Salad, 162 variations, 136
Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 174 in PorkBellyB.L.T., 102- 103 Potato Noodles, 123
in Lemon Posset, 173 in Smoked Bacon B.L.T., 102 Rice Noodles, 123
in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 183 Barbecue Ketchup, 30 Rye Noodles, 123
variations, 174 Caramelized Onion Gravy, 24 Zhu,Johnny, Microwaved Black Cod with Scallions
Spicy Hollandaise, 29 Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pesta, 23 and Ginger, 163
Spicy Jerky, 164 Cilantro Pesta, 23 zip-top bags
Strawberry Juice with Green Apple Foam, 67 Creamed Spinach, 82 for cooking so us vide
whisks in Florentine Omelet Filling, 57 checking core temperature in, 8
handheld, Eggs Sunny-Side Up, 62-63 in Mac and Parmesan, 148 how to seal food in, 6
stand mixers with. See stand mixers, with whisk variation, 82 limitations for long cooking periods, 99
White Beef Stock, 10 Fruit Leather, 4 7 zucchini, Mediterranean Vegetable Confit, 44
white miso, Mushroom Jus, 15 Green Onion and Sorrel Pesta, 23 in Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Confit, 150
in Cream of Mushroom Soup, 63 Hazelnut Gelato, 177
in Mushroom Puree, 63 Home Jus Gras, 17
in Mushroom Soup, 76 variation, 17
white poppy seeds. See poppy seeds, white Instant Chocolate Sponge, 169
variations, 169

220