Beruflich Dokumente
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Here is a partial listing of our Family of Gums and Resins utilized in many formulations.
For detailed paperwork on all of our items consult our web site at www.pentamfg.com
For a complete list of all our natural, natural identical and synthetic ingredients
visit us at our www.pentamfg.com
50 Okner Parkway, Livingston, New Jersey 07039-1604 Phone: (973) 740-2300 Fax: (973) 740-1839
E-Mail: sales@pentamfg.com Web: www.pentamfg.com
Frankincense
and Myrrh
Hexyl Butyrate
and Hexanoate
Woods, Gums
and Resins WANT MORE?
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2018-11971
FLAVOR
22 12 Flavor Bites: Hexyl butyrate and Hexanoate
By John Wright
Fresh and “fuzzy,” hexyl butyrate and hexanoate both have
complex fruity profiles that can be used in a range of orchard
fruit, tropical fruit, berry, dairy and other flavor applications.
FRAGRANCE
16 Frankincense and Myrrh and Its Socio-Economic Impact
By Peter Greenhalgh, IFEAT Study Tour Coordinator
For approximately 10,000 people in northern Somalia, the
coveted perfumery ingredients, frankincense and myrrh,
provide an economic opportunity and way of life.
INGREDIENTS
8 Product Roundup: Woods, Gums and Resins
16 INDUSTRY
6 Editor’s Note: A Conversation on Diversity
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76 Editor in Chief
Managing Editor
Assistant Editor
News Editor
Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com
Deniz Ataman | 1-630-344-6070/dataman@allured.com
Ryan Daily | 1-630-344-6058/rdaily@allured.com
Eden Stuart | 1-630-344-6053/estuart@allured.com
ADVERTISING SALES
Associate Publisher Paige Crist | 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com
Advertising Coordinator Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com
AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT
Marketing Specialist Bianca Esposito
Customer Service 1-847-559-7554/customerservice@perfumerflavorist.com
DESIGN
Design Manager Kim Fry
Senior Graphic Designer Hon Bannapradist
Production Manager Bryan Crowe
CORPORATE
Partner & CEO George Fox
Partner & President Janet Ludwig
CFO Rich Winters
DE1
Director of Events Maria Prior
Digital Products Director Rose Southard
Executive Assistant Maria Romero
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A Conversation on Diversity
I
t’s no coincidence
that the more the
F&F industry faces
the public, the
more initiative is placed
on improving corporate
culture and environmental
awareness. We’re seeing
more programs and
DENIZ ATAMAN
certifications in place by
Managing Editor
F&F companies to address
dataman@allured.com
corporate sustainability for employees, customers and the environment. As
the platform for the flavor and fragrance industry, it’s important for Perfumer
& Flavorist to address our readers’ concerns and ideas surrounding industry
P&F Magazine culture and innovation. One issue that couldn’t be timelier is addressing the lack
Editorial Advisory Board of women and diversity in leadership positions. While we receive submissions
for articles and talks from all around the world, which in and of itself creates a
diverse mix, we can always do more.
CARLOS BENAÏM The F&F industry is unique in that it’s self-regulated, creative, technologically
Master Perfumer, Vice President advanced and positioned as an advocate and protector of nature’s biodiversity
International Flavors and Fragrances and it’s wonderful to see many F&F companies expanding their corporate culture.
From start-ups to multi-nationals we are seeing companies in the industry
PATRICK DUNPHY, PH.D. embrace inclusivity, diversity and equal pay. The more diverse the workplace, the
Independent Vanilla and more authentically we can connect with our customers. And the more authenti-
Flavor Consultant cally we connect with our customers, the more our businesses can grow. It’s a
fruitful feedback loop – ending gender inequality in the workforce could boost
MATTHIAS GUENTERT, PH.D. productivity by 16%, according to stats from the World Economic Forum.
Independent Flavor and Food We’re seeing more certifications and acknowledgements towards gender
Consultant equality in F&F news. Most notably, Firmenich recently received the global
EDGE certification for gender equality in the workplace. In the spring, Laure
JUDITH MICHALSKI Moutet Manheimer was the first woman to receive the prestigious Eric Bruell
Senior Flavorist Distinguished Service Award during the Fragrance Creators Association spring
abelei Flavors dinner. IFF is tackling discrimination against lesbian, gay, bisexual, transsexual
and intersex (LGBTI) individuals by signing on to the United Nations Global
JOHN WRIGHT LGBTI Standards of Conduct for Business. Organizations like the Women in
Independent Flavorist and Author Flavor and Fragrance Commerce (WFFC) offer incredible opportunities for
members to grow professionally, as well as recognize women who have made
JOHN CAVALLO, PH.D. significant contributions towards the modernization of the industry. Givaudan’s
Senior Vice President of Technology
We Lead program offers a forum for budding female professionals to receive
& Commercial Development,
professional development and advancement. Yet, it’s 2019, and as an industry and
Citromax
as a society we still lack diversity in leadership positions. Once we stop having to
acknowledge these milestones, we know we’ve made it because then equality will
be the norm. What can we do to make sure we’re providing the tools to create a
broader platform to hold more dynamic voices in the industry?
And with all of this said, I’d like to hear from you on what we can do to
include individuals from all backgrounds who are making differences and blazing
trails in F&F. Tell us what your organization is doing. We want to hear from you.
If you have ideas or thoughts, please feel free to contact me directly:
dataman@allured.com.
Deniz Ataman
!
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Symrise AG Natural Advantage
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the ordinary and use Symroxane, one of our renewable specialties, as raspberry, woody, floral and sage aromas. Due to its woody, piney or citrus
your key for exclusive and lively creations. characteristics, it is widely used in fragrances as well as tobacco and tea
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US natural, kosher, non-GMO.
PF Full Page.indd 1
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5/21/19 10:45 AM
Industry
PEOPLE NEWS
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T
BY JOHN WRIGHT he complex families of related chemicals found in many
johnwrightflavorist@gmail.com natural foods gave rise to several different historical creative
approaches. One approach was to take the chemical that
was subjectively the most effective and use it alone at an
exaggerated level. This approach certainly worked. It may
not have resulted in the most subtle or authentic flavors, but it lay behind
many best-selling creations. The opposite approach was to assume
everything was there “for a reason” and had to be included. Creativity was
expressed by adjusting the levels of the different chemicals. This, rather
more academic, approach also worked, and resulted in many fine flavors.
The drawback was the higher than optimal level of complexity, which
reduced the impact of the flavor. Perhaps the best approach lies in between
these two extremes.
Last month, we looked at hexyl acetate (FEMA# 2565, CAS# 142-92-7).
It is often accompanied in nature by a very complex list of related hexyl
esters. Two of these stand out from the herd. Hexyl butyrate (FEMA# 2568,
CAS# 2639-63-6) and hexyl hexanoate (FEMA# 2572, CAS# 6378-65-0).
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.
Orchard Fruits
Apple: Hexyl butyrate and hexyl hexanoate both
work to round out the dominant notes of hexyl
acetate. Both should be used in the region of 1,000
ppm and add significantly to taste effects. flavors. Hexyl butyrate should be added at 1,000 ppm
Apricot and Nectarine: Apricot and nectarine and hexyl hexanoate much lower, around 100 ppm.
flavors are naturally quite deep in character. Hexyl Plum: Hexyl butyrate should take the lead in
butyrate is best used at around 500 ppm. Hexyl plum flavors. An ideal level of addition is 2,000 ppm.
hexanoate adds subtle realism to the taste profile at Hexyl hexanoate should be added at 500 ppm. The
100 ppm. use of the three esters in combination is especially
Cherry: Hexyl butyrate adds an attractive effect beneficial in this interesting flavor category.
of fresh fruit at 100 ppm in authentic style flavors.
Hexyl hexanoate also works to improve taste at Tropical Fruit Flavors
similar or slightly lower levels, nearer 50 ppm. Banana: Hexyl butyrate at 800 ppm, in conjunc-
Peach: Hexyl hexanoate functions very well in tion with around 100 ppm of hexyl hexanoate, work
fresh peach flavors and can be used at around 400 to improve any banana flavor by adding freshness
ppm. Hexyl butyrate can be used at the same level and depth of taste.
in many “skinny” peach flavors. Lower levels, nearer Guava: Hexyl butyrate is easily the most useful of
100 ppm, work better in more subtle, authentic, the three hexyl esters in guava flavors. A good start-
fresh flavors. ing point is 1,000 ppm. Hexyl hexanoate completes
Pear: This relative balance between the butyrate the picture at 500 ppm, adding freshness and cover-
and hexanoate is also effective in fresh, ripe pear ing cloying notes.
13
Kiwi: Hexyl butyrate is also the king of this com- butyrate should be used at around 500 ppm and
bination in kiwi flavors. A good level is 1,500 ppm. hexyl hexanoate at around 200 ppm.
Hexyl hexanoate should only be used at a low level,
around 100 ppm, to avoid tilting the delicate profile Berry Flavors
towards passionfruit. Blackberry: All three esters can be used in black-
Mango: The ideal combination of hexyl esters berry flavors at very similar levels, around 800 ppm,
to emphasize the juicy notes in mango flavors uses giving a lovely, juicy, fresh boost to the profile.
similar quantities, around 500 ppm, of all three. If Blackcurrant: Hexyl acetate should be the domi-
required, taste effects can be enhanced even further nant partner in realistic blackcurrant flavors. Hexyl
by raising hexyl hexanoate to 1,000 ppm. butyrate, at 400 ppm, and hexyl hexanaote, at 100
Melon, Cantaloupe: Cantaloupe melon flavors ppm, play useful, but distinctly secondary, roles.
happily incorporate even higher levels of all three Blueberry: The same comments apply to blue-
esters, in the range of 1,000-2,000 ppm, depending berry flavors. Hexyl butyrate should be used at one
on the degree of juiciness required. hundred ppm and hexyl hexanoate at a mere 50 ppm.
Papaya: Papaya flavors are better served by Cranberry: Similar levels, around 200 ppm, work
modest levels, around 20 ppm, of hexyl butyrate. best in cranberry flavors, a profile where fresh, juicy
Hexyl hexanoate can be used at slightly higher levels, notes are especially welcome.
up to 100 ppm. Raspberry: Hexyl acetate is slightly in the lead in
Passionfruit: Hexyl hexanoate really comes into realistic raspberry flavors, but hexyl butyrate, at 500
its own in passionfruit flavors. A good starting level ppm, and hexyl hexanoate, at 300 ppm, round out
is 5,000 ppm, paired with around 3,000 ppm of the profile nicely.
hexyl butyrate. Strawberry: A similar balance works for strawberry
Pineapple: The ideal ratio of the three hexyl esters flavors, adding hexyl butyrate and hexyl hexanoate,
is quite similar in pineapple flavors, but the levels both at around 200 ppm, to emphasize freshness.
are, understandably, much lower. Hexyl butyrate
should be added at around 500 ppm and hexyl hex-
anoate at around 1,000 ppm. This combination adds
Dairy Flavors
Butter and Cheese: Hexyl butyrate at 50 ppm
a fresh, tropical character and elusive sweetness.
and hexyl hexanoate at 20 ppm add subtle freshness
Pomegranate: Hexyl butyrate, at around 2,000
to cheese and butter flavors, especially Cheddar
ppm, and hexyl hexanoate, at around 1,500 ppm, help
cheese styles.
to overcome the dominant iso-amyl esters and their
Cream and Fresh Milk: Slightly lower levels,
combined effect enhances hexyl acetate immensely.
20 ppm of both hexyl butyrate and hexanoate are
Watermelon: Levels of all three esters are lower
helpful in cream and milk flavors.
in watermelon than in other melon categories. Hexyl
Other Flavors
Bacon and Ham: The effect of adding these three
esters to bacon and ham flavors is extremely subtle
but still useful. Hexyl butyrate and hexyl hexanoate
should both be added at 50 ppm.
Grape, Concord: Hexyl butyrate should be added
to Concord grape flavors at the same level as hexyl
acetate, 500 ppm. Hexyl hexanoate plays a lesser
role at 200 ppm.
Rum, Brandy and Whisky: Hexyl butyrate
and hexyl hexanoate serve to quietly lift all
spirit flavors, both at around 50 ppm.
Tea: Unlike hexyl acetate, both the butyrate
and the hexanoate are better suited to black tea
flavors than green tea flavors. Levels of use for
both esters are in the region of 100 ppm or lower.
Tomato, Fresh: Hexyl butyrate is the most
useful ester of the series in fresh tomato flavors
and can work well at 300 ppm. Hexyl hexanoate
is also helpful, but at a lower level of addition,
nearer 50 ppm.
*This report was published from the Socio-Economic Reports compiled by the International Federation of
Essential Oils and Aroma Trades (IFEAT). The research for this report was conducted in 2016/17 and published
in IFEATWORLD in July 2017.
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.
17
Most resin is obtained by the tapping of wild growing trees, which involves making deliberate incision into the back of the tree and letting resin exude and then harden.
Processing Frankincense and Myrrh cleaning, sieving, sorting and picking, the material
After the gum has been tapped and collected into finally ends up graded by color or size. After the
bags and packaging, the villagers or farmers collect material is cleaned, the trader comes to negotiate
the gum and store it in an excavation, cave or some the purchase and export of the product. Most of the
kind of camp, to accumulate for some time while product is exported in this form, although there is a
they are harvesting in a certain region. This probably local market for chewing frankincense.
contributes to the stabilization of the gum resin. Further processing is predominantly undertaken
Finally, after sufficient quantities have been col- in the importer’s country and depends on usage.
lected, they are brought to the village or town, where The resins are used in unprocessed form for both fra-
the material is classified, graded and traded. All this grance and flavor purposes, distilled to yield volatile
is done manually. The resin is stored for about 12 oils with characteristic and balsamic odors used
weeks to harden. The only processing undertaken in perfumery. Solvent extracts are also prepared as
after collection is the sorting and grading of the resin resinoids and absolutes used as fixatives in perfumes.
globules. This is usually done by the local merchant Although the bulk of processing was undertaken
to whom it is sold rather than by the collector. outside the gum-producing countries, processing
The cleaning process is undertaken in the collec- plants have been set up in Somaliland, Kenya and
tion centers where the primary material ranges from Oman. This indicates a clear evolution in the F&M
being as white as milk to a deep dark red. Following supply chain.
19
production to around 30 MT, with harvesting totally 6. Chikamai, B. and Casadei, E., 2005. Editors. Production
dependent upon immigrant Somali labor.5 Coppen and Marketing of Gum Resins: Frankincense, Myrrh and
in Chikamai and Casadei eds. stated: “Total world Opoponax. NGARA Publication Series 5/09/2005, pp. 97.
demand is estimated at around 2,500 tonnes/year
but this figure is subject to some qualification and * Paper presented at IFEAT Dubai Conference Sept. 25-29, 2016, “The Middle
East: Challenges at the Historical Crossroads of the F&F Trade
much uncertainty. China and Europe are the largest
markets but the Middle East, North Africa and
O
ver the last year, the flavor and Leffingwell cites the cosmetic ingredient sector as a
fragrance industry has seen sales expansion opportunity for natural fragrances.
unprecedented growth in business He added, “Whereas cosmetic ingredients are increas-
and cultural change. This year’s ingly being added to the sales areas, so also consumer
leaderboard takes a look at the desires for natural products [are] no longer just for
industry’s investments to further R&D and sales ‘natural flavors,’ but also [for] ‘natural fragrances.’”
in plant-based ingredients, functional ingredients, Trade restrictions paired with global political
meat substitutes and—though its legislation is in uncertainty are driving policy initiatives, which is
limbo—cannabis and CBD. Additionally, the industry’s exemplified by the Fragrance Creators Association
culture is evolving to address gender disparities and May 2019 federal fly-in in Washington D.C. This year’s
acknowledge the LGBTI community in order to Chinese and E.U. trade policies pose a significant
strengthen equality standards and thus cultivate more adverse impact on diversifying essential oil sourc-
voices to contemporize F&F. The industry’s efforts ing and the livelihood of farmers around the world.
to diversify portfolios and company culture are the Farah K. Ahmed, president and CEO of Fragrance
touchstones for this year’s leaderboard. Creators, testified against the United States Trade
Representative, advising the Administration not to
Sales are rising despite global uncertainties place trade or tariff restrictions on essential oils and
It’s difficult to give an approximate figure on the concentrates of essential oils classified in HTS heading
global F&F market’s growth—but it’s safe to say that 3301. “Restrictions on these products will lead to
sales are rising amidst stringent regulatory policies, higher costs for U.S. producers (many of which are
tariff and trade restrictions and a continuous price small businesses), retailers, and every person in every
and harvest volatility for natural raw materials, community in the nation—all without any accompany-
among others. Market data reports a range between ing benefit to U.S. industry ... In addition, hundreds of
$24-53 billion by 2025 a,b. As we’ve acknowledged in thousands of American jobs are dependent on scented
past issues, the industry continues to be more seg- products, which require these essential oil inputs, and
mented than ever, where F&F companies are targeting could be jeopardized,” said Ahmed.
non-traditional F&F territories within food, health
and beauty sectors. “In 2018 & so far in 2019 we have Pets, Cannabis and Technology
seen the most transformation in decades. Virtually all Most notably, Givaudan’s acquisition of Naturex
the major F&F players have been active in highly tar- in September 2018 and Albert Vielle in May 2019,
geted acquisitions—IFF-Frutarom being the largest,” indicates the company’s foray into becoming one of
commented John Leffingwell, Ph.D., president, the international leaders in plant extraction for food,
Leffingwell & Associates. Among these acquisitions, health and beauty. As one of the top three F&F com-
panies in the world, Givaudan saw significant sales
a Markets and Markets report: Flavors and fragrances market worth $24.13
growth from Naturex’s contributions in flavor and
billion by 2022
b Newson6 report: Flavors and fragrance market 2019 fragrance reaching a total of CHF 150 million.
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.
23
Givaudan
Geneva, Switzerland
2018 sales: CHF 5,527 milliona / $5,653 million
G
ood business momentum continued 2020 ambition of creating further value through
for Givaudan in 2018, the third year profitable, responsible growth.
of its 2020 strategy, demonstrating With sales of CHF 5,527 million, Givaudan’s top
what the company says is its ability to line growth in 2018 was a 5.6% increase on a like-
deliver on short-term objectives while for-like basis and 9.4% in Swiss francs, with a free
investing for long-term success. cash flow of 12.7% of sales. These numbers were in
This path to the long term included strategic line with the financial targets of the 2020 strategy
acquisitions during the year that included Naturex, and reflected growth in both of Givaudan’s business
Centroflora Nutra and Expressions Parfumées. The divisions: flavor sales were CHF 3,002 million, an
acquisition of Albert Vieille, a French company spe- increase of 4.6% on a like-for-like basis and 10.8%
cializing in natural ingredients used in the fragrance in Swiss francs; fragrance sales were CHF 2,525
and aromatherapy markets, was announced in late million, an increase of 6.6% on a like-for-like basis
2018 and completed in May 2019. Also, in 2018, and 7.8% in Swiss francs.
Givaudan entered into a strategic partnership with Despite good progress being made against all
Synthite, a global player in the supply of high-quality three of its strategic pillars – growing with customers,
botanical extract ingredients. The acquisitions last delivering with excellence, and partnering for shared
year were part of a total nine such investments since success – the company acknowledged that it faced
2014 that represented an additional CHF 1 billion of challenges in 2018. Raw material prices increased
annualized sales – acquisitions that fit the company’s significantly in all categories and price increases were
introduced to compensate. In common with others in
a https://www.perfumerflavorist.com/networking/news/company/Givaudan- the industry, there were also significant supply disrup-
Releases-2018-Full-Year-Results--504860321.html tions in fragrance ingredients.
Gilles Andrier
CEO, Givaudan
Louie D’Amico
President, Flavour Division
25
that specializes in active ingredients designed for to such challenges. Adverse events in 2018 tested
anti-ageing cosmetics. The move is in line with Givaudan’s response capabilities, but it was able to
Givaudan’s strategy of expanding the capabilities of meet all customer orders. “We all took great pride
its active beauty business. in the way we handled these crises. Feedback from
Spanning flavors and fragrances, Givaudan customers was particularly positive on our com-
identifies certain common themes such as naturals, pany’s performance during these difficult periods,”
health and well-being, the use of flavor concepts and says Volpi.
ingredients in fragrance applications (for example, It is difficult to predict extreme events in raw
in candles), and technology solutions for sustainable materials supply, although some defensive measures
natural ingredients (for example, enhanced fermenta- can be put in place. “We have been increasing our
tion). And while the company’s fragrance business is level of vertical integration over the past 10 years
more global, flavors is more regional mainly because when it comes to ingredients that we use ourselves,”
of local taste preferences and regulatory requirements. says Volpi. This integration is in naturals as well as
synthetic ingredients and involves acquisitions, joint
Securing Raw Materials Supply ventures and partnerships.
The company has placed an increasing emphasis Apart from adverse events, the growth in demand
in recent years on natural products that promote for natural products raises questions about supplies
health and well-being, and growth is being shaped that are sustainable, a pressure which Givaudan
through acquisitions, strategic partnerships and acknowledges. “Given this demand from consumers,
investments. This emphasis on naturals is in line we know that we must source consciously, working
with global megatrends and rapidly changing diligently in both our sustainability efforts and new
consumer behaviors that are bringing change to the areas of research to ensure a planet of plentiful
global flavor and fragrance industry. The demand supply in the future,” says D’Amico.
for more natural and organic products is seen by “In recent years the majority of our external
Givaudan as a real business opportunity and is partnerships have focused on naturals and over 90%
increasingly joining with other businesses to provide of our research efforts in flavors have focused on
strengthened offerings to its customers and become new natural solutions. We have been very successful
the market leader in naturals. in applying technologies such as enhanced fermen-
Within raw material supply, 2018 saw signifi- tation, using natural processes to create natural
cant increases of disruptions; not surprisingly, the ingredients, in a sustainable way. Such technologies
company has been trying to reduce its exposure provide a path to a sustainable future.”
27
29
International Flavors
and Fragrances
New York, New York
2018 sales: $4 billiona
A
t the time of the publication of the 2018 year of being a part of IFF, and the Frutarom deal is
Leaderboard, the news of IFF acquiring showing lucrative results.
Frutarom was relatively fresh. While Outside of the Frutarom deal, IFF continued its
there were some rumors of Frutarom’s sustainability efforts. After surpassing three out
acquisition prior to that, the news was of four of its 2020 environmental goals in 2017,
a surprise to the F&F industry. In October 2018, IFF the company launched EcoEffective+, a new set of
completed the acquisition of Frutarom. environmental goals focusing on emission reduc-
With contributions from Frutarom, the company tions, zero waste-to-landfill and responsible water
posted $4 billion in sales for 2018, an increase of stewardship. In addition to these new goals, IFF
17% from 2017’s $3.4 million. Of the sales, Frutarom has been recognized for its sustainability initia-
contributed $359.6 million with its core business, tives thus far. At the beginning of 2019, IFF made
excluding trade and marketing, and grew by 4% on the Carbon Disclosure Project’s (CDP) A List for
a like-for-like basis prior year. IFF’s scent business Climate Change for the fourth year in a row and
saw sales increase by 6%, or $114.1 million, to $1.9 was recognized as a 2019 Industry Mover by SAM,
billion, while its taste business saw sales increase a subsidiary of RobecoSAM which specializes in
6%, or $105.2 million, to $1.7 billion. Not even a providing environmental, social and governance
(ESG) data, benchmarks and ratings.
a https://www.perfumerflavorist.com/networking/news/company/IFF-Releases-Full-
2018-Results-505793821.html
31
is very much driven toward clean eating, natural demands, our industry must follow the regulations
ingredients and plant-based foods. In Latin America, put in place by the governmental authorities in all
recent regulations around processed foods have of the countries that we serve. Indirectly, NGOs and
brought a new range of natural beverages, juices and retailers require us to meet additional regulatory
a surge of vegetable-based products. In Greater Asia, requirements that are closely monitored by our global
texture in food and beverages is a massive trend, regulatory affairs, quality, environmental health and
seen by example in bubble tea. In Europe, the culi- safety and legal teams at the global level.
nary movement towards ethnic cuisines and meals We respond to these demands as we have done so
that have spice and heat are rising in popularity. historically, by maintaining close communication with
Through a combination of future-trends analysis, our customers and taking an integrated approach to
consumer insights and a sustainability-focused devel- providing solutions that meet both our customers’
opment process, our Re-Imagine programs help IFF requirements and government regulations.
serve unmet needs in the food and beverage market, In response to consumer demand for transpar-
while also contributing to positive environmental ency, we have several programs in place that allow
and social solutions. In addition, we believe certain us to provide sustainable solutions to our customers.
Frutarom capabilities will help drive improvement in One example is our responsible sourcing program.
this area as well. We proudly hold 11 For Life certifications, under-
Within our scent business, consumer trends scoring our commitment to responsibly sourcing
continue to shape our product portfolio. Across the ingredients throughout our supply chain. For Life
fragrance industry, the consumer demand for trace- certifications recognize an organization’s adherence
able, clean-label solutions affects all of our global to specific sustainability criteria, including transpar-
regions. Similar to better-for-you taste solutions, con- ency, environmental responsibility, fair working
sumers are looking for fine and consumer fragrances conditions and positive relationships with producers
that meet sustainability criteria, such as social and and local communities.
environmental responsibility. One example is our We see regulations playing the same role in the
capability to create Cradle to Cradleb certified fra- future, but in many cases, customer requirements are
grances. IFF’s proof-of-concept PuraVitac fragrance, now leading the way we create our products. Looking
launched in 2016, was the world’s first Cradle to ahead, we will continue to meet government require-
Cradle Certified fragrance. Cradle to Cradle certifica- ments, while serving the specific needs of our global
tion ensures that the scent meets stringent standards and regional customers with exceptional quality.
in the categories of material health, material reuti-
lization, renewable energy and carbon management, Increasingly, the F&F industry has looked at
water stewardship and social fairness. digital advancements, like AI and VR, as ways to
Working directly with our taste and scent custom- grow and improve its business. How have these
ers allows us to monitor consumer trends and in technologies inspired F&F and what role do
return, offer custom solutions that meet the needs these technologies play in its future?
of the global market. While flavor and fragrance
IFF is a pioneer in the area of analytics, algorithm
trends continue to vary by region, the consumer shift
and artificial intelligence in domains such as R&D,
toward healthier lifestyles is driving our approach to
procurement, operations and the technical optimi-
creating regenerative products.
zation of fragrances. For example, when modeling
fragrance formulas, we can employ AI technol-
While consumer demands are applying
ogy. This process allows us to explain fragrance
pressure to F&F companies for more transpar-
characteristics, such as consumer perception, by
ency and sustainability, regulations are adding
monitoring ingredient combinations, and our propri-
an extra obstacle to the flavor and fragrance
etary algorithms improve the quality and efficiency
industries. What role will regulations play in the
of our approach.
future of the industry and how is your company
Beyond the expertise of our talented scientists, we
responding to them?
have partnerships with industry-leading thinkers to
Demands currently come from a number of continuously improve the use of technology within
sources. In a direct fashion, consumer demand for our business. Additionally, our Scientific Advisory
better-for-you products continues to drive our taste Board (SAB), led by our executive vice president,
and scent businesses, as we improve our creation pro- chief global scientific and sustainability officer, bring
cesses and product offerings. In addition to consumer together world class, multi-disciplinary, external
experts to enhance our R&D programs. We believe
b-c Cradle to Cradle and PuraVita are registered trademarks of IFF. that digital advancements, coupled with expert-level
33
Firmenich
Geneva, Switzerland
2018 sales: CHF 3,700 million / $3,814 million*
O
ver the last year, the Geneva-based producers of natural ingredients. In May 2018,
F&F house expanded its portfolio with the company launched its third white biotech
technology-driven innovations, and perfumery ingredient: a more refined and sustain-
enhanced its company culture through able version of Z11. Additionally, the company
a renewed commitment to employee is expanding its R&D capabilities via artificial
diversity and equal pay. Overall, the company saw intelligence through a partnership with Ecole
a 9.6% (in Swiss francs) growth in sales with eight Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne to enhance
acquisitions over the last two years, expanding the fragrance creation process for perfumers. For
its presence in the U.S. West Coast (Agilex), sub- cleaning products, the company continues to focus
Saharan Africa (Flavourome) and Central and South on malodor solutions for cleaning products in
America (Nelixia). South Africa, India and Bangladesh. Most notably,
During the year, Firmenich’s flavor division Firmenich implemented its “Mobile Toilet for Her”
responded to consumers’ growing interest in healthy as part of India’s Swachh Bharat hygiene initiative.
food and beverage options surrounding plant-based The mobile toilets, which are operated by trained
ingredients. Most notably, Firmenich partnered with female attendants, provide a safe, hygienic and
Layn Natural Ingredients in China, which specializes enjoyable toilet experience for local women.
in plant-based sweeteners, flavors and botanicals. Firmenich is comprised of 7,600 employees and
In Sept. 2018, Firmenich announced its acquisition the company has announced several public initia-
of Senomyx, a sweet, cooling and bitter solutions tives to ensure equality, diversity and inclusion in its
specialists. Additionally, the company acquired corporate culture. It was recognized as the seventh
Italy's Campus, which focuses on natural functional company in the world as a globally certified gender
ingredients for protein applications, clean label, equality employer by EDGE, a leading gender equality
meat, dairy, sauces and plant-based foods. certifier. Mieke Van de Capelle, chief human resources
On the other side of the F&F equation, officer at Firmenich said, “Globally, our female col-
Firmenich’s fragrance division focused on leagues represent 40% of our senior management and
expanding its naturals portfolio through its workforce. This recognition confirms we are making
NaturalsTogether sourcing program, where the gender balance a priority, going far beyond equal pay.
company builds long-term relationships with We will not stop here, as we remain determined to
achieving the highest level of excellence in this area.”
*FY July 2017 – June 2018.
Gilbert Ghostine
CEO, Firmenich
Driving a New Era of Transformative Growth in key strategic markets from China and India to
Outpacing global GDP, the perfume and taste Brazil, Mexico and South Africa, just to name a few.
industry is experiencing positive growth with In parallel, as an innovation-driven organiza-
encouraging prospects ahead, fuelled by growing tion, we continued to invest in world-class science,
urbanization and rising consumer purchasing power. our engine of growth, with over 3,800 live patents
In this context, Firmenich continued its growth today. We are also developing a broad range of new
momentum with a 9.6% increase in Swiss Francs, technologies to amplify how we do business, from
reaching 3.7 billion Swiss Francs in net sales. data analytics to our new Digital Lab dedicated to
Alongside our consistent industry-leading organic augmenting our creation capabilities through artificial
growth, we completed nine strategic acquisitions over intelligence. In addition, we are investing significantly
the past two years, while also expanding our footprint in e-commerce platforms and digital tools.
35
Making Firmenich the Best Place to Work: report outlining what a universal healthy and sus-
Dialing up Diversity & Inclusion tainable diet looks like; demonstrating that what is
One area where we are making great strides is good for you, is also good for the planet.
diversity and inclusion. My ambition is to make sure This universal healthy diet is flexitarian, with bal-
Firmenich remains the most inspirational place to anced animal and plant-based proteins, a doubling of
work in our industry with a culture and working consumption of fruits, vegetables and nuts, as well as
environment that enables all our 7,600 colleagues a 50% reduction in added sugars.
to thrive. Offering equal opportunities for all our Considering that 2.1 billion adults are overweight
people, is not only rooted in our DNA as a family- or obese in the world today, we are committed to
owned company, it is the right thing to do! bringing this healthy diet to life and making it aspi-
Today, we are one of only seven companies, and rational and accessible to all.
the first in our industry, to be globally certified as More than a decade ago, we started investing
a gender equality employer by EDGE, the world’s in technologies to make healthier food and drink
leading business certification standard in this area. options taste delicious. These investments have
Building on this global certification, we are the paid off significantly. Today our latest technology
first Swiss company to join the Valuable 500, along- TastePRINTa can reduce up to 100% of added sugar
side global companies such as Unilever, Accenture, naturally without compromising on taste. Last year
Microsoft and Virgin Media. alone, we removed 150 metric tons of sugar from
We have been walking the talk on diversity and products that consumers love, removing 600 billion
inclusion for over four decades, and count hundreds calories from their diets.
of highly talented colleagues with different abilities Our partner Layn in China plays a critical role
within our operations globally. Partnering with the in enabling this platform, by giving us access to the
Valuable 500 will enable us to exchange best prac- world’s broadest source of natural sweeteners, such
tices with like-minded companies to accelerate this as monk fruit and stevia.
movement and make a difference to the 1.3 billion We are also actively involved in shaping green
people living with disability in the world. protein solutions to ensure their nutritional value
is matched by their deliciousness and appeal to
consumers. Building on the growing vegan and
Innovating For Wellbeing vegetarian movement, we have introduced a com-
Everyday our people are putting our innovation to
prehensive portfolio of “Smart Protein” solutions,
work to tackle some of today’s most pressing chal-
including ingredients and delivery technologies
lenges. Let me share some examples:
designed to create great-tasting plant-based food and
beverages. Combining our mastery of taste, with our
Making Healthy Taste Delicious world-class science and in-depth consumer under-
When it comes to taste, we want to make healthy standing, these capabilities enable our customers
taste delicious for all. to create delicious eating experiences across savory,
The world of food reached a historic landmark sweet goods and beverages.
this year, with the definition of healthy diets by
the EAT-Lancet Commission report in January 2019. Accelerating Access to Sanitation
Written by 37 scientists from 16 countries over a In line with our vision to accelerate access to sani-
three-year period, this is the very first scientific tation for all, we continue to focus on bringing our
breakthrough malodor control technologies to the
populations most in need. Today our solutions are
used with toilet cleaning products in South Africa,
India and Bangladesh. And this is just the beginning!
Actively championing India’s Swachh Bharat
initiative to “Clean India,” through a partnership
with the Pune Municipality, on World Toilet Day,
we opened the doors of our new “Mobile Toilet for
Her” providing a safe, hygienic and pleasurable toilet
experience for local women. The fully refurbished
bus features toilets, shower cubicles, a panic button,
as well as diaper changing and nursing stations, all
maintained by trained female attendants.
Firmenich was recognized by EDGE, the world’s leading business certification
standard in this area. a TastePRINT is a registered trademark of Firmenich
37
41
Symrise
Holzminden, Germany
2018 sales: €3,154 milliona / $3,726 million*
I
n 2018, Symrise continued its strong growth At the heart of Symrise’s growth is its efforts to
by registering e3,154 million in sales and an understand consumers’ demands for natural flavor
EBITDA of e631 million, an increase of 9% and fragrance ingredients that are both transparent
from 2018 fiscal year numbers. Marking the and sustainable. On the fragrance side, Symrise has
13th year of sales growth, the company has developed a sulfate turpentine oil, created from a
also continued to invest in sustainable raw materials, paper by-product, to be used in fragrance mixtures.
training and educating employees and expanding or For flavors, the company has done extensive research
optimizing production capabilities. in what consumers around the globe look for in
natural products, finding that regional demands for
a https://www.perfumerflavorist.com/networking/news/company/Symrise-
natural food and beverages vary greatly.
Releases-2018-Financial-Results--507083891.html
*FY ended June 2018
Heinz-Jürgen Bertram
Chairman and CEO
profitable companies in the industry. Thanks to our beverages so that they retain their original taste and
high level of innovation, we were able to expand our nutritional value.
market position while boosting our sustainability Also, we are increasingly utilizing the byproducts
performance. These definitely are achievements that that arise from raw materials processing for food
make us proud. production, replacing artificial cosmetic ingredients
with products from sustainable and renewable
Raw material shortages continue to challenge sources or using byproducts from the paper industry
the industry’s supply. What is the future of natural for the development of fragrances that are certified
ingredients and how do you propose a more stable as sustainable. Let me give you three examples:
supply chain for the future? How are synthetic • For instance, we are using food side streams from
ingredients playing a role in this stability? bananas. Just imagine, one third or 1.3 billion
We do see a very far reaching future for natural tons of global agricultural food production today
ingredients. In the flavor and nutrition segments, is lost or wasted along the food chain, and many
we place great emphasis on close cooperation with natural resources are not consistently used in
the producers of our natural raw materials. The food production. Our nutrition segment (Diana)
topic of “naturalness” can be illustrated by manifold has significant experience in turning these valu-
examples, such as our code of nature initiative. able ingredients into equally valuable products.
Symrise is meeting the global trend towards natu- These byproducts still contain many nutrients
ralness with this comprehensive concept and based such as proteins, antioxidants, minerals, fiber or
it on four pillars: the best naturals, applied science, other micronutrients, which are valuable from a
transparency and consumer-driven. The reason for nutritional point of view. For example, the pro-
this is simple. Consumers are placing increasing duction of our banana purees, flakes and powder
emphasis on naturalness. They want to understand —which are used in baby food and other products
exactly what the ingredients of their food are and —generates around 22,000 tons of banana peels a
where they come from. They expect products to year, which still contain a lot of dietary fiber and
come from sustainable agriculture. And they want health-promoting substances. If we extract and
carefully prepared and properly stored foods and recycle these and many other natural ingredients,
43
it will have a positive impact on the environment. which is supplemented by a wide-reaching external
In this way, we contribute to the conservation of network of research institutes and scientific facili-
natural resources while also creating new markets ties, forms the basis of our product development.
and economic advantages for our company. Our research centers around the globe work closely
• Or take our cosmetic ingredients that we are with the respective regional sales and application
increasingly basing on natural and renewable technology teams to offer customers and consum-
raw materials. These ingredients are trending ers tailor-made solutions and products for different
among global consumers a lot right now. As a regional requirements.
consequence, more and more cosmetics produc- With our knowledge about the versatile consumer
ers are responding to the wishes of consumers by preferences in mind, we regularly carry out intensive
using raw materials and ingredients that come research on a global level. We find that naturalness,
from nature and can be sustainably cultivated sustainability, trend-savviness, authentic regional
and harvested. At Symrise, we are offering the products and ethical aspects are common themes.
perfect fit for this demand. Among others, we At the same time, they want as few ingredients as
have developed Hydroliteb 5 green, which can do possible, and those they understand as additive and
all the same things as the traditional Hydrolite 5, preservative free.
but the ingredient is natural-based and sustain- Delivering true natural products is a complex
able. It is made from a by-product generated in task. Scent and taste preferences are as versatile and
producing sugar from sugar cane. It can be used diverse as the global concepts of naturalness. This
in numerous applications to moisturize the skin, depends on many things, such as region, legal status
enhance the efficacy of ingredients and improve and product categories. For example, in March 2017,
the appearance, consistency and protection of the we carried out a study in the United States. We found
product itself. that naturalness was most sought-after in the yogurt
• And my third illustration of our sustainable & category by 68% of consumers. We had the lowest
natural approach: Until now, only paper and figures in the ready-to-eat (RTE) meals category.
wood products had been certified with the Still, almost 47%, i.e. half of the consumers surveyed
globally recognized FSC certificate for protect- said that naturalness was a quality they looked for.
ing forests. In a joint project with one major We found it also interesting to compare yogurts
customer, Symrise has now become the first and RTE meals, because they highlight that natu-
company ever to receive this certification for ralness contains various meanings. For instance,
a liquid raw material: the raw sulfate turpen- consumers in the United States expect subtle
tine oil, a by-product from the paper industry differences from their brands in terms of most
that is used in numerous fragrant mixtures. impactful “clean labelling.” People are looking for
Turpentine-based ingredients, such as citronel- organic ingredients and freshness claims on yogurt
lol, geraniol, dihydromyrcenol or linalool, are packaging. In RTE meals, they are more interested
fundamental in the perfumer’s palette. These in respectful breeding of animals.
raw materials are indeed used in no less than an To add to this: No matter in which region of
average of 30 % of all Symrise fragrant mixtures the world our customers and their consumers are
sold to its customers. Turpentine oil is produced we are meeting their full array of wishes, such as
from the industrial processing of pine – the certain religious requirements or nutritional prefer-
trees come from the southeast United States, ences. Take vanilla, for example: Alcohol is typically
where they have been grown in certified renew- used in vanilla extraction. However, it is prohibited
able plantations. in the manufacture of halal products for Muslim
consumers. We have thus developed an alternative
What are some of the regional differences manufacturing process that extracts the same rich
you’re seeing across F&F categories? Are you vanilla flavor without the use of alcohol. We also
seeing any common themes between these dif- obtain this vanilla from our sustainable cultivation
ferences? If so, what are they and how is this cooperation in Madagascar, which in turn benefits
driving your business? local farmers.
Given strong differences in sensory preferences While consumer demands are applying pressure
from region to region, comprehensive consumer to F&F companies for more transparency and sus-
research forms an important part of our R & D activ- tainability, regulations are adding an extra obstacle
ities. The extensive R&D undertaken at the company, to the flavor and fragrance industries. What role
will regulations play in the future of the industry
b Hydrolite is a registered trademark of Symrise. and how is your company responding to them?
Regulations are a key driver in how we do busi- On the flavor side, the regulatory landscape for
ness and satisfy customer demand but are often a food including flavorings is rapidly changing around
lagging indicator of consumer demand and trends. the world. Many emerging economies are establish-
Whilst the impact of regulation cannot be ignored ing regulations as the eating habits in these countries
and accounted for, by working closely with custom- are changing dramatically from self-produced to
ers (who are directly and immediately influenced by ready-to-eat meals. Symrise is closely monitoring
consumer trends) we are able to position ourselves all these developments and active in the relevant
ahead of the curve and be prepared for the chal- associations to understand the business implications
lenges that regulations ultimately bring. of any change at a very early stage and to adjust the
An example of this is transparency in the fra- portfolio where necessary.
grance sector. By working closely with one of our
multi-national partners who were being pressured Increasingly, the F&F industry has looked at
to disclose more by NGOs and consumers, we were digital advancements, like AI and VR, as ways to
able to prepare an internal policy relating to public grow and improve its business. How have these
disclosure of fragrance ingredients and leverage that technologies inspired F&F and what role do these
position in further discussions with other multina- technologies play in its future?
tionals responding to their competitors’ increased We want to move from being a product developer
transparency. This positioning has prepared the and manufacturer to a comprehensive solutions
business for future regulatory impacts arising from provider – and for this purpose we are increasingly
the calls for greater transparency and has ensured a establishing digitized and networked processes. But
“soft landing” for this topic internally. when it comes to digitization, we can also come back
In addition to our own monitoring activities and to the innovations. Here’s one example: Together
trade association activities, the partnerships we with IBM’s Thomas J. Watson Research Center and
progress with our customers ensure we are well- with the help of artificial intelligence, we developed
positioned and prepared for regulatory changes. two market-ready perfumes for the Brazilian market.
45
The art and science of designing a winning we are focusing on more naturalness, which our
perfume has been something we at Symrise have customers and, above all, consumers want.
been doing for more than 200 years. Now our
perfumers can work with an AI apprentice by their Lastly, what are Symrise’s plans for 2019?
side that can analyze thousands of formulas and What are some of the categories your company is
historical data to identify patterns and predict novel focusing on and where do you think the future of
combinations, helping to make them more produc- F&F is heading?
tive, and accelerate the design process by guiding Years ago, we positioned ourselves well with our
them toward formulas that have never been seen strategy. It is based on the three pillars of growth,
before. Compared with other computer-aided models efficiency and portfolio; the three of these together
from IBM Research for other industry branches, make up the foundation of our long-term profit-
creating fragrances require highly detailed precision. able business. We will continue to focus on organic
In the fragrance business in particular, the market growth, and we intend to develop adjacent growth
demands new creations every season. AI identifies areas through combinations of our diverse skill sets.
existing fragrances and suggests complementary In addition, we are aligning the company closely to
additional components and formulas. Perfumers use market requirements. We are further expanding our
these suggestions and then tweak them, to empha- portfolio in the direction of innovative and high-
size a certain fragrance note, and improve how long margin products, diversifying it and at the same
it lasts on the skin. time achieving noticeable synergy effects. Last but
not least, we are becoming increasingly efficient and
One of the biggest challenges in the 21st sustainable. Furthermore, we want to continue to
century is the threat of global warming and the grow by making strategic acquisitions. This includes
ecological disasters associated with it. In terms of the agreement signed in January to acquire the
your own company, what specific initiatives have American company ADF/IDF to strengthen our nutri-
you taken part to become more sustainable? tion portfolio and our presence in the United States.
The commitment of Symrise to the sustain- This skill-set made us the company with the
ability of what we do and the preservation of our broadest range in the industry, and we also cover the
natural environment is inextricably linked to our most fields because we strategically moved beyond the
economic ambitions. As a signatory of the United traditional fragrance and flavor business at an early
Nations Global Compact, we actively support the stage. We now generate one-third of our sales with pet
principles of responsible business outlined therein. and baby food, probiotics, active cosmetic ingredi-
In December 2018, Symrise was recognized with ents and functional, health-promoting ingredients.
the German Sustainability Award in the category This share is to increase further until 2025, when we
“Germany’s most sustainable large corporation intend to generate about a quarter of sales each in the
2019.” We are delighted to receive this honor, and we areas of flavor, fragrance, care and nutrition. And take
are proud of our achievement and its recognition by our innovations: We can apply them in many busi-
the wider public. Our numerous employees all over ness areas. And our probiotics experts work together
the world are very dedicated to these goals. And for with colleagues from such diverse areas as cosmetic
me, the award also means that we are treading this ingredients, oral care and pet food. We always strive
path in exactly the right way: We have identified the to network as many parts of the company as possible
key areas in which we can make a difference for our and thus create added value.
stakeholders – and can thus combine sustainability With our diversified approach, we have laid the
with economic success and achieve the best results. foundations for a promising future and we have
In our sustainability goals, which we are develop- manifested this within our long-term goals for
ing in parallel with our new strategic goals, we have the year 2025: With continuous organic growth
stipulated that we want to procure 100% of our of 5-7%, we want to increase our sales to around
most important agro- and aquaculture raw materials e5.5-6 billion. Our EBITDA is expected to expand
from sustainable sources by 2025. Our efforts can be to 20-23%. We are driving forward our expansion
seen, for example, in the sustainable sourcing of raw in high-growth business areas with targeted invest-
materials that are so immensely important for per- ments – even beyond fragrances and flavorings. We
fumery, such as patchouli, in Indonesia, or lavender, are strengthening and securing our own natural raw
in France. We work closely with local producers to material base. We will convert our market-leading
promote sustainable agriculture while ensuring the innovative strength even more rapidly into innova-
availability of high-quality materials for us. This is tive, market-ready products. And we are supporting
particularly important to make us less dependent on our talented employees so that they learn to utilize
the volatile raw materials markets. At the same time, their full potential.
Mane
Le Bar-sur-Loup, France
2018 sales: €1,253 million / $1,480 million
C
ontinuing its growth from 2017, Mane While Mane saw solid growth in 2018, it wasn’t
has posted consolidated sales of e1,253 without challenges. In the year, a number of raw
million for 2018, an increase of 8.4% material crisis affected the company’s supply of
from previous year numbers. During aroma chemicals for its perfumery business. The
the year, the company made a number company utilized alternative syntheses to transform
of key investments to strengthen its beverage, essential oils components into the ingredients in dire
confection, savory and seasoning businesses. The supply, despite price increases. To address the chal-
company acquired Kancor, which expanded its lenges facing its fragrance business, the company
spices, oleoresins and extracts offerings. Additionally, opened a fragrance development center in New
it started a joint venture called Ethical Extracts that Jersey in September 2018 and continued its invest-
specializes in delivering sustainable and traceable ments in consumer insight.
coffee extracts and aromas for the beverage, food
and cosmetic industries.
Jean M. Mane
President and CEO
49
In terms of nutrition, consumers want healthier with our strategic customers to create more value
and nutritionally beneficial products. Our customers from our innovation, our creativity and our continu-
in the food industry are looking to reduce the sugar ous investments in building our R&D capabilities,
and salt content of their products. The challenge is to specifically including the grand opening of a brand
do this without drastically altering the taste consum- new, state-of-the-art Fragrance Development Center
ers are used to. To this end, Mane has developed a located in Parsippany, northern New Jersey in
range of products, Sense Captureb, to help its cus- September 2018. The 100,000 sq. ft. facility is home
tomers adapt to these behavioral changes and new to Mane’s commercial, creative and R&D teams
consumer expectations. To ensure the result meets the in the United States. The expansive space is fully
taste expectations of consumers in terms of organo- equipped with cutting-edge robotics, a 2,000 sq.ft.
leptic quality, Mane offers natural Sense Capture consumer insights testing center, sensory odor
solutions to decrease quantities of sugar and salt booths and extensive testing laboratories continu-
without changing the taste of the “lighter” products. ously replenished with 100% fresh air allowing for an
In savory as well, we are working every day from odor-free fragrance creation environment. Growing
farm to fork to deliver trustful and tasty solutions that our investments in consumer insight and leading
answer the growing demand for natural ingredients our teams to design consumer preferred fragrances
and full transparency. This approach has been applied have enabled us to strengthen our strategic position
to our spices sourcing initiatives, conducted under the with our major personal care partners and further
leadership of our Kancor teams, and we have added sustain our successes in the fabric care and air care
new varieties to our range of concentrated vegetable segments, particularly with our Freshplexc malodor
juices through our sourcing partnerships, which give solutions, which include proprietary molecules from
us direct access to information at every stage of the our Fundamental Research programs. In line with
process, in line with our full traceability objective for the growing demand for natural fragrances, we strive
our customers. Our snacks experts have focused on to enlarge the palette of our perfumers through sus-
gaining insight about today’s consumer expectations tainably sourced iconic naturals and new ingredients
and trend discovery platforms, how the trend scout- that spark their creativity.
ing is changing influenced by the internet and social As Mane consolidates its position in the fine
media in a digitalized world and how the food and fragrance world, we were proud that Cécile Matton,
flavor industry has to adapt to these changes. For whose creativity is nourished by the palette of Mane
the first time this year, we will showcase our meat ingredients, from high-end, iconic naturals to Jungle
capabilities at IFFA. By addressing the requirements Essenced extracts, was named “Perfumer of the Year
of the meat industry in a culinary way, Mane will 2018” by the editors of Cosmétique Mag.
share its outstanding expertise in creating the finest Meanwhile, our ingredients division has been
aromatic ingredients and tailor-made functional busy introducing a number of consciously sourced
solutions for meat businesses, including our Sense ingredients at the 2018 World Perfumery Congress
Capture Protein solution to tackle the inclusion of (WPC) in Nice, including new botanicals, magnified
vegetable proteins in meat products. We have also iconic perfumery ingredients and rectified citrus oils
developed a full range of Sense Capture Mask solu- thanks to our fractionation capabilities to cope with
tions to formulate for flexitarian, vegetarian and/or the furocoumarin concern.
vegan products adapted to typical soy, pea, wheat, Leveraging on our historical presence in
oat, and algae off-flavors, to secure consumer accep- Madagascar, and after reintroducing the cultiva-
tance, achieve the right taste, and the optimal flavor tion of Bourbon vetiver several years ago, we have
balance of the finished product. presented a superior quality of Bourbon geranium
2018 has been a challenging year for our fra- essential oil, chosen for its floral, aromatic and fresh
grance division, due to the numerous raw material notes, sourced under the supervision of Terres en
crises that have particularly affected the supply of Mêlées, an NGO, which promotes rugby among girls
aroma chemicals for the perfumery side of the busi- to give them a chance to pursue their studies abroad.
ness. This situation has triggered a complex domino After premiering Timur pepper at the previous
effect on the availability and the price of many raw WPC edition, we continued to explore new spicy
materials. Our high inventory policy, combined with notes with our Forest Pepper Jungle Essence.
our knowledge of alternative syntheses to transform This extract made from spicy-citrusy berries from
essential oils components into the ingredients in dire Thailand, locally named Makwaen, unveiled a new
supply were mobilized to overcome the shortages, kind of citrus notes with orange, pink pepper tonali-
even if price hikes could not be avoided. ties and aldehydic facets. We purchase the berries
Despite these challenges, the division performed directly from the farmers in the villages through
strongly thanks to our strengthened collaboration our local team, to ensure a full traceability of the
geographic origin and support the local farmers, and research and optimizing processes for the produc-
process them in our Bar-sur-Loup headquarters. tion of aroma chemicals through our safety process
Among the new botanicals presented, we featured laboratory, in line with the principles of Green
our Four Corners Alcoholic Resinoid: this everlast- Chemistry, enables us to enrich our capabilities for
ing, liquorous, dried fruit scent brings fruity, sweet innovative fragrance and flavor solutions. This year,
and balsamic tonalities. It is derived from a wild we commissioned a new chemistry plant in India
fruit from the tropical forest of Cameroon sourced with additional capacity which is key for the future
with the collaboration of the AAFEBEN NGO, as of our captive molecules, and to enable us to “make
part of a project for the preservation of the protected our own” aroma chemicals in dire supply conditions
reserve of Dja and improvement of local communi- further to the domino effect caused by the numerous
ties’ conditions. raw material crises.
In addition, for the first time, we presented to the Our commitment to sustainable innovation also
industry two specialties created with a selection of includes designing more eco-friendly chemical prod-
our captive molecules: Bigaflower, designed with a ucts and processes so as to reduce or eliminate the
high level of Bigaranee for its interesting soft green use of hazardous substances. In 2011, we designed
notes of petitgrain, this specialty exhibits a floral our own assessment tool named Green Motiong
addictive note with comforting facets to deliver a based on the 12 principles of Green Chemistry
delightful natural neroli scent; and driftwood, a introduced by P. Anastas and J. Warner. Green
radiant ambery scent with elegant facets reminiscent Motion rates the health, safety and environmental
of white woods created with Ambramonef to add impact of manufactured ingredients for the flavor
structure and style to fragrances. and fragrance industry on a 0 to 100 scale. The safer
Each year, we reinvest over 8% of our annual reve- and the less impactful the process, the higher the
nues in R&D, maintaining a high level of investment rating. Green Motion has been widely implemented
particularly in organic chemistry and biotechnology, within our organization as a tool to design more eco-
as well as in the development of new natural actives friendly flavors and fragrances and is gaining more
through our Kancor team. Supporting fundamental awareness at our customers, who are placing it at
51
the heart of their reflection about the environmental on specific naturals such as vanilla and iconic
footprint of their products. perfumery flowers produced in the Grasse region.
I am also proud to announce that, after being In Madagascar, we have developed strong ties with
awarded the 2017 CSR Challenges Trophy for our local communities and endeavor to constantly create
environmental approach, we accepted the Top shared value with all stakeholders involved in the
Sustainable Family Business award in 2018, which vanilla supply chain. Following initiatives in place
recognizes the efforts of the group towards sus- since 2009 to support the FITAMA cooperative to
tainability and ethics, particularly the setup of a produce fair trade certified vanilla, Mane renewed
whistleblowing hotline in 2016 and the creation of a its commitment by signing a tripartite agreement
group ethics committee which reports to me. with FANAMBY NGO and FLORIBIS in May 2014.
The aim was to implement an entirely traceable
Raw material shortages continue to chal- vanilla supply, from pollination to the flavor stage
lenge the industry’s supply. What is the future in order to ensure a stable supply while guarantee-
of natural ingredients and how do you propose ing complete traceability along the supply chain
a more stable supply chain for the future? How and ensuring the quality control of vanilla beans
are synthetic ingredients playing a role in this from farming communities in the north-western
stability? part of the great island. From a social perspec-
Raw materials shortages have particularly tive, the vanilla responsibly purchased by Mane in
affected the industry over the last years, making our Madagascar complies with ethical standards and
responsible purchasing policy ever more crucial: the positively impacts 10,000 farmers.
quality of our relationships with suppliers helps to Furthermore, we have implemented a five-year
sustain our supply chains in the long term. We are reforestation program in a protected area to limit
committed to building lasting relationships with forest destruction due to plantation expansion, and
suppliers all around the world based on balancing reintroduced several years ago the cultivation of
individual interests, trust, and reciprocal corporate vetiver Bourbon in collaboration with the communi-
social responsibility (CSR) commitments. We believe ties involved in the vanilla supply chain to generate
we have a responsibility to influence the actions a second source of income for the farmers, thus
of our suppliers in terms of both environmental strengthening the sustainability of this value chain.
and socio-economic impact. This ambition aims to For several years now, as part of its responsible
incorporate CSR as a key selection criterion for our purchasing policy, Mane has been committed to
suppliers, alongside aspects such as quality, cost and building special relationships with small growers of
deadlines. For this reason, our responsible purchas- perfume plants from Grasse and Provence such as
ing policy is an integral part of our CSR strategy narcissus, jasmine, Centifolia rose, mimosa, lavandin
and we expect our suppliers to adhere to the Group’s and cypress.
ethical and CSR principles. To achieve this aim,
we ensure suppliers are linked to a CSR policy and While consumer demands are applying
provide support to evaluate their practices and carry pressure to F&F companies for more transpar-
out on-site audits. ency and sustainability, regulations are adding
By the end of 2017, already more than 90% an extra obstacle to the flavor and fragrance
of the purchases made at MANE Bar-sur-Loup industries. What role will regulations play in the
were from suppliers committed to a CSR policy future of the industry and how is your company
(either by signing our Purchasing and Sustainable responding to them?
Development Charter, or by communicating a CSR On the regulatory front, our experts are actively
report verified by an independent third party), involved within national and international orga-
thereby exceeding our 2021 objective. In the future, nizations across the world to council and help
we will continue to work towards growing the shape the definition of regulations by govern-
proportion of significant suppliers to have undergone ments. Although we have been keen to encourage
a CSR assessment such as an on-site audit by Mane, common approaches in the definition of flavoring
Ecovadis evaluation or on-site audit by an indepen- and fragrance regulations, we have observed that
dent third party using the SMETA standard. We are the political changes that have happened over the
giving priority in our audit schedule to suppliers last years have moved governments away from a
identified as potentially most at risk, with a low self- global approach and pushed towards more national
evaluation score or presenting a potential CSR risk protectionism. As elected president of IOFI, I am
linked to their product or country of origin. responsible for guiding the board in strategy develop-
We particularly focus on building more stable ment and implementation of the global association’s
supply chains and sustainable sourcing projects initiatives in science, advocacy, communication
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World of Flavour & Fragrance
3/25/19 3:13 PM
2019 Flavor & Fragrance Leaderboard
and sustainability, and my main priority will be to creations move them. The continuous increase of
maintain and eventually extend a global approach data available from consumer research and new
to the safety evaluation and regulation of flavorings. possibilities offered by big data analysis, machine
In the case of dual ingredients, yet another layer of learning or deep learning can be applied to our
complexity is being added to an already extremely industry as opportunities to process data faster or
complex regulatory and certification environment. differently, like aggregating, modeling or predicting
As president and CEO of Mane, the quality and information from plural sources. At Mane, we want
safety of our products in compliance with regulations to utilize the power of AI to create new tools to help
wherever our flavors and fragrances are used, is and identify what will resonate with a specific data set,
always will be my utmost priority. To do so, we have such a particular age group in a particular geogra-
built a network of regulatory affairs experts around phy. We believe this power can be used as a tool to
the Group so that regulatory compliance becomes a direct our perfumers and flavorists’ work to deliver
key differentiation factor for Mane, not an obstacle. against a particular brief target but cannot replace
In line with our CSR commitments, we are also their creative impulse. The application of data
engaged on the key topics of transparency and analysis and AI can also be of great use at the source
sustainability. Transparency has become the hottest of our natural raw materials, helping farmers gather
topic in our industry, particularly on the fragrance numerous data sets to improve their agricultural
side. We partner with our customers in different practices depending on the weather conditions for
exercises of transparency aimed at giving more infor- instance, while blockchain technology can be used
mation to consumers about the composition of the as an efficient solution to prove the traceability from
fragrance used in their favorite branded products, farm to final product which is increasingly sought
yet believe that tackling the delicate subject of the by consumers.
protection of formulations and “business secrecy”
should be resolved in a global and harmonized way. One of the biggest challenges in the 21st
The consumer demand for more sustainability is century is the threat of global warming and the
a positive trend pushing the industry to find more ecological disasters associated with it. In terms
sustainable sources of raw materials, which has of your own company, what specific initiatives
always been at the heart of our concern at Mane. have you taken part to become more sustainable?
The issue posed by the demand for more sustain- Mane is committed to sustainable and profitable
ability stems from the various interpretations of development, driven by a long-term vision. With this
what is sustainable, which is why we were active in in mind, we have been developing our Corporate
the drafting of the sustainability charter of IFRA/ Social Responsibility (CSR) strategy for several years
IOFI and why we have conceived Green Motion now to find a balance between economic growth,
to be a comprehensive tool for the assessment of respect for people, and environmental protection, all
how sustainable an ingredient or a formula is. Our of which are essential for the long-term prosperity of
efforts have been acknowledged by professor Roger our company.
Sheldon, a recognized authority on green chemistry, The group is involved in various local and inter-
world widely known for developing the e-factor national associations and organizations that develop
concept, in the article he published for the 25th its economic framework to encourage sustainable
anniversary of this metric, in which he describes the development in partnerships with various company
rise of e-factor and more generally green chemistry’s stakeholders. Our international commitments include
global impact on environmental footprint minimiza- the United Nations’ Global Compact, of which we
tion in the chemical industry, quoting Mane and have been a signatory since 2003, hence being the
Green Motion as an exemplary application to assess first in our industry to adhere to this initiative.
the “greenness” of a process and product in the gate- As a signatory of the UN’s Caring for Climate
to-gate manufacturing domain. initiative since 2007, we have made a voluntary
commitment to help fight climate change, and set the
Increasingly, the F&F industry has looked at goal of reducing CO2 emissions per tonne of product
digital advancements, like AI and VR, as ways to by 15% between 2009 and 2021 and of increasing
grow and improve its business. How have these the percentage of renewable energy in total energy
technologies inspired F&F and what role do consumption to 10% by 2021.
these technologies play in its future? In 2015, we signed the Paris Pledge for Action,
Digital advancements such as the emergence of thereby committing to support all actions towards
artificial intelligence tools allow us to go further in ensuring the objectives of the Paris Agreement,
the understanding of consumers and the way our signed during the COP 21, are met or surpassed in
order to limit temperature increases to less than produce raw materials with a low environmental
2° Celsius. To demonstrate this commitment, we impact. This objective has been at the heart of the
revised our energy consumption objectives in 2018: development of Green Motion, which we have used
after surpassing our 2021 objective to reduce by as a continuous improvement tool to take a greener
20% the energy consumption per tonne of product approach to the production of aroma chemicals
compared to 2009, we now aim to reduce CO2 emis- and natural extracts. Mane has also developed
sions (Scopes 1 and 2) per tonne of product by 40% its own production of natural molecules through
by 2025 compared to 2016, increase the percentage the use of classical fermentation and enzymatic
of renewable energy in total energy consumption to reactions since 1987, the year of the establishment
33% by 2025 and reduce the absolute value of CO2 of our biotechnology department, as another way
emissions (Scope 3) by 20% by 2025 compared to to reduce our environmental impact. We comple-
2016. This year, we have decided to take things a step ment our approach by building more stable supply
further with a green electricity contract representing chains of natural raw materials by vertically
100% of the total electric consumption of our French integrating or establishing technical, economic or
production sites. societal partnerships with the growers, to ensure
In terms of waste management, we have already they receive a decent revenue from their crop or
exceeded our target for 2021 to recover over 80% from the development of additional cultures, and
of all our waste generated, both hazardous and by promoting the respect of good farming practices
non-hazardous, four years earlier than expected. We to reduce the use of pesticides for instance. In this
also made great strides towards achieving our goal respect, the acquisition of Kancor has opened new
to ensure that more than 90% of our total shipped horizons, not only in India, to actively include all
product tonnage is from ISO 14001 certified sites actors in the supply chain of the flowers, roots,
by 2021 as Mane’s two production sites in Indonesia fruits and spices processed by our Indian extrac-
(Cibitung and Cikarang) were certified ISO 14001 tion units. Our goal is to work towards improving
for their environmental management system in the livelihood of our upstream and downstream
October last year. partners, all the way to consumers.
Our commitment to sustainability has also been We will also maximize the use of the significant
embedded in our efforts to design and construct investments initiated in the past years to further
greener buildings as part of a holistic approach increase our global footprint and reach, with the
to sustainability. In France, our new reception addition or expansion of our research and develop-
center received the LEED Gold certification, one ment capabilities, including dedicated facilities for
of the world’s most demanding and recognized consumer insight and sensory research, as well as
certifications that rewards the high environmental our production capacity in strategic markets.
quality of buildings. And as announced in 2017, we In China, the construction of our new production
inaugurated a new manufacturing site in Medellin, hub in Pinghu, Zhejiang Province is well under way
Colombia, which did not simply double our pro- and is expected to start operations in 2020. The new
duction capacity: this intelligent construction was site will substantially increase our manufacturing
conducted under LEED standards built with con- capacity whilst maintaining best-in-class service
vergent, efficient and sustainable systems focused levels to its customers across Greater China and
on the respect and care for natural resources as part Korea. With a total investment of $60 million, it is
of our commitment to sustainability and the protec- our largest investment in China to date. This invest-
tion of the environment. Its bioclimatic design ment in this key high growth market is another
provides adequate lighting, ventilation and indoor significant milestone in achieving our ambitions.
air quality combined with a closed cycle of water By further building-up our capabilities in China, we
consumption with a rainwater and wastewater confirm our position as a strategic partner to our
treatment plant. customers on the mainland. We aim to continue
growing with them to anticipate and meet future
Lastly, what are Mane’s plans for 2019? What consumer needs and preferences.
are some of the categories your company is In the United States, we continue to build on the
focusing on and where do you think the future of added capacity in our flavors production plant, while
F&F is heading? planning major investments to our fragrances produc-
Looking ahead, we will continue to build on our tion facilities in New Jersey after the grand opening of
strategy to invest in fundamental research to fuel our Fragrance Development Center this year.
our capacity to innovate, putting a strong emphasis
on researching new technologies and processes to
Takasago
Tokyo, Japan
Total sales: ¥141,592 million* / $1,278 million
T
akasago’s consolidated net sales rose Regionally, net sales in Japan decreased by 0.3%
3.5% year over year to ¥141,592 year over year to ¥65,340 million, while operating
million, with its flavors business income grew by 5.1% to ¥2,631 million as a result of
growing 1.5% year over year to the strong growth in the aroma ingredients business.
¥83,312 million as a result of the Net sales in the Americas grew by 2.9% to ¥32,359
strong performance by its German subsidiary. Net million, while operating income decreased 45.7%
sales on the fragrance side rose 6.3% year over to ¥610 million due to increasing costs incurred to
year to ¥38,183 million as a result of the strong strengthen the US subsidiary’s infrastructure. In
performance by the French subsidiary. Aroma Europe, net sales grew by 21.2% to ¥22,083 million,
ingredient sales also rose by 8.4% to ¥11,409, with with operating income increasing by 92.8% to ¥1,224
growth attributed to the steady performance of million, with strong performance by the German
menthol, the business segment’s mainstay. subsidiary. Asia’s net sales rose by 1.2% to ¥21,809
million, while operating income fell by 32.9% to
¥1,771 million due to the shortcomings of the
*FY ended March 31, 2018. Source: Takasago's annual report
Singaporean subsidiary.
Satoshi Masumura
President and CEO
One-T is the mid-term management plan, and Raw material shortages continue to challenge
we are at the very stage of bringing its true success the industry’s supply. What is the future of natural
into fruition. However, many initiatives founded ingredients and how do you propose a more stable
in the five basic policies and corporate concept are supply chain for the future? How are synthetic
already underway at Takasago. In terms of business ingredients playing a role in this stability?
growth strategy for example, Takasago has not only I also feel customer awareness about natural
begun construction on a new factory in Indonesia ingredients is gradually growing. Even with regional
but is also looking into building a QC center and differences, this global trend will remain strong. We
logistics center in Germany. In technical innovation, can expect the demographic trends and economic
we are furthering both group cooperation as well development spoken of often, including an increas-
as open innovation to drive added value proposals ing population and growth of the middle class, to an
in fragrances and flavors though greater synergy, influence of greater consumption of natural ingredi-
while collaborating with other companies, different ents in foodstuff as well as fragrances. We can also
types of industries, research institutes and universi- see needs for natural raw materials, such as greater
ties. Takasago organically integrates three types of use of biofuel, to grow in various fields besides
innovations: “concepts” to generate new value by flavors and fragrances. This climate will make com-
scientifically analyzing and assessing the human petition to procure natural ingredients increasingly
senses, “products” to materialize those concepts fierce worldwide.
into original products, and “processes” to establish Takasago responded to these circumstances by
safe and efficient production technology with a low starting a program to sustainably procure strategic
environmental impact. Takasago will bring unique raw materials under the name Takasago Global
and effective technologies and products into reality, Procurement Sustainability Key Initiatives (TaSuKI).
which focus on our corporate philosophy to contrib- Specifically, we are (1) formulating and implement-
ute to society through technology. ing basic procurement policies for long-term, stable
59
procurement of strategic raw materials, (2) provid- responsibilities of suppliers with emphasis on safety
ing support to the producers and local communities and security are ever growing.
in various regions worldwide to preserve the
environment for sustainable procurement, (3) ensur- While consumer demands are applying
ing full compliance to practice ethical procurement pressure to F&F companies for more transpar-
activities through our supply chain and (4) vitalizing ency and sustainability, regulations are adding
communication with our outside stakeholders about an extra obstacle to the flavor and fragrance
our procurement activities in order to support the industries. What role will regulations play in the
above. In the research field, Takasago furthers the future of the industry and how is your company
development of alternative materials friendly to both responding to them?
people and the environment in addition to promot-
Flavors and fragrances are encompassed by a
ing activities that include the use of renewable raw
variety of regulations from the procurement of raw
materials to preserve the biodiversity of natural
materials to production and distribution. U.S. and
flavors and fragrances.
European countries have led in these regulations,
The use of synthetic ingredients could be a
but new emerging markets have been enacting a
major key to resolving the issues surrounding the
wide range of regulations in recent years. If we
procurement of natural raw materials including
consider the role required of flavors and fragrances
their limitation of resources and susceptibility to the
companies beyond these regulations, we find an
climate and political situations. Raising awareness
extremely broad range of requirements that include
in both client manufacturers and consumers about
environmental regulations, religious precepts and
the safety and functionality of synthetic ingredients
Sustainable Development Goals (SGDs).
is vital in order to further the use of these materials.
Regulations certainly limit freedom in scent
Takasago started its business as a synthetic perfume
creation. At the same time, they give a feeling of
and flavor manufacturer with a century of history.
safety to consumers and might lead to new creation.
We will continue working to research and develop
Flavors and fragrances companies must take a
synthetic aroma ingredients, and we hope to con-
positive approach to these trends as an opportunity
tribute to resolving the challenges involving natural
without reservation that such circumstances will
raw materials.
obstruct corporate activities. We must respond
proactively to protect and further our interests as
What are some of the regional differences you
well as those of all of our stakeholders from client
are seeing across F&F categories? Are you seeing
manufacturers to consumers. These activities should
any common themes between these differences?
earn people’s trust and peace-of-mind toward flavors
If so, what are they and how is this driving your
and fragrances and further enhance their presence.
business?
Takasago engages in various efforts toward regula-
If we compare flavors and fragrances, up until tions in all facets of its business from research and
now flavors are used to bring depth to things such development to procurement and manufacturing.
as food culture, palatability and even religion, while
creating diverse markets distinct to each region.
However, the expansion of globalization, social net- Increasingly, the F&F industry has looked at
working services and other communication tools is digital advancements, like AI and VR, as ways to
reducing the diversity between regions and bringing grow and improve its business. How have these
out common traits. Among these traits are natural technologies inspired F&F and what role do
consciousness that includes natural foods and clean these technologies play in its future?
label, and health consciousness that includes sugar Greater attention to Artificial Intelligence (AI) in
and salt reduction. These needs are not only shared recent years has incited some distinct features in the
in American and European markets but also other digital field unlike the repeated booms of the past. The
markets worldwide including new emerging markets. social environment referred to as an information-ori-
Even though the needs for easy-to-prepare meals ented society cultivates AI and AI in turn accelerates
gain greater traction due to changes in lifestyles, an information-oriented society to complete a timely
people’s desire for great taste is further expanding. cycle. Currently, digital technology more heavily
Even with fragrances, health consciousness and affects industries with images, audio and other data
needs for environmental friendliness have become which are easy to convert as big data, but the flavors
cross-regional trends. On the other hand, emerg- and fragrances industry is no different. Considering
ing markets show a strong demand for economic the development speed of digital technology today,
value. Flavors and fragrances companies must be all industries including the flavors and fragrances
able to respond to these diverse needs, and the will reap the benefits of this new development while
61
F
ollowing the restructuring of its flavor In addition to following consumer trends and
business in 2017, which included growth opportunities, the company has made prog-
divesting non-strategic and low margin ress on its sustainability initiatives. The company
business, Sensient maintained its flavor implemented the use of a forest product chain-
and fragrance business, while setting it of-custody certification for raw materials sourced
up for growth in 2019 and beyond. Focusing on the from sustainable forest operations and has found
consumer, the company is looking to capitalize on craft success with its SensiCaps line of microencapsu-
beverage and non-dairy markets, while also finding lated fragrances formulated without formaldehyde.
ways to tap into the fire and spicy trend, apparent in Additionally, the company has established a 10-year
spicy cocktails and Nashville hot chicken flavors. goal to reduce energy, water and hazardous waste
by 2025.
a http://investor.sensient.com/file/Index?KeyFile=396760728 (The numbers taken
for the leaderboard only include Sensients’ flavor and fragrance business.)
Paul Manning
CEO
Raw material shortages continue to challenge extend the efficiency of all the clean ingredients in a
the industry’s supply. What is the future of natural meaningful way.
ingredients and how do you propose a more stable
supply chain for the future? How are synthetic What are some of the regional differences
ingredients playing a role in this stability? you’re seeing across F&F categories? Are you
Flavors are integral to a brand’s success. On that seeing any common themes between these dif-
front, clean label is synonomous with products that ferences? If so, what are they and how is this
come with supply chain and raw material assur- driving your business?
ances. Whether it is vertical integration or “farm The consumer flavor palate is expanding, facili-
to formulation” guarantee, without this assurance, tated by immediate access to new and exciting foods.
there are very few ways left for brands to commit Digital platforms have created an ecosystem that
to this promise. Synthetic flavors cannot compete facilitates quick absorption of new trends. With that
in this environment. But this demand has to be met comes flavor migration and blurring of regional
and is only going to increase pressure to supply clean taste profiles. One observation is an exponential
ingredients as noted in the question. increase in acceptance of fiery flavors, ex. Nashville
Crop volatility and compromised supply chain hot chicken and spicy cocktails. Some categories
have historically hurt customers and their brands. are experiencing more changes versus others, but in
Our approach is to help our customers mitigate this general, this blending of flavors is creating an excit-
risk. Generic products like vanilla can be switched in ing time for consumers to experiment and satisfy a
a formula; however, for a specialized set of products wide array of their taste desires.
such as extracts, there is room for suppliers to bring Our primary intent in these efforts is to prepare
differentiation with a sustainable mindset from the our customers to be more agile and proactive in
crop itself. Starting with a healthy supply chain is the their product development process. This fact has
best assurance we can give to our customers. Vertical influenced how we service our customers with
integration is one obvious way; another is to leverage flavor concepts that are grounded in familiarity but
innovation in application science and technology to also stretches their taste experimentation. Sensient
63
With veganism and vegetarianism on the rise, Sensient hopes to tap into this growing market.
has not only been consistent in investing time and is our SensiCapsb line of microencapsulated fra-
resources towards understanding and predicting grances formulated without formaldehyde. We have
global flavor profiles, but also how these flavors are also implemented the use of a new forest product
incorporated into the various product formats, from chain-of-custody certification for raw materials
beverages to vegan products. sourced from sustainable forest operations.
These efforts are just some of the examples of
While consumer demands are applying our collective effort in safeguarding our resources
pressure to F&F companies for more transpar- and investing in people who ultimately are respon-
ency and sustainability, regulations are adding sible for cultivating a sustainable mindset in the
an extra obstacle to the flavor and fragrance organization.
industries. What role will regulations play in the
future of the industry and how is your company Increasingly, the F&F industry has looked at
responding to them? digital advancements, like AI and VR, as ways to
Sensient’s efforts on sustainability and tran- grow and improve its business. How have these
parancy are pillars of our success. Defining and technologies inspired F&F and what role do
taking ownership of sustainable efforts is the best these technologies play in the future?
way to comply with uncertain regulations. The Technology is integral to our business strategy,
long term health of the ecosystem of our farms and be it understanding the molecular genetics of the
supply wellbeing is reflected in our acquisition of ingredients or partnering with orgnanizations who
a clean botanical extraction company along with are using computer learning to make sense of the big
creating flavors with clean technology, provenance data universe.
and free of palm oil. Our sustainability efforts in That said, it is important to maintain a healthy
fragrance are reflected in using “green chemistry” balance between technology and how it gets imple-
principles to minimize chemical process; an example mented. It is too early to see how AI can shape the
flavor business, but early adoption is key to any
b SensiCaps is a registered trademark of Sensient Technologies. future success.
Lastly, what are Sensient’s plans for 2019? Sensient will strive to find the best balance
What are some of the categories your company is between creativity and functional needs to develop
focusing on and where do you think the future of flavors and fragrances with the highest acceptance
F&F is heading? and the best performance final product.
Expanding consumer taste and demand for
clean products are creating some interesting
65
Robertet
Grasse, France
2018 sales: €525 million / $620 milliona
I
n 2018, Robertet continued its growth by Similar to other F&F companies, Robertet has
posting e525 million in sales, an increase of faced raw material challenges in 2018, specifically
7.5%, led by growth with new and former in the case of synthetic ingredients. However, the
clients. In addition to focusing on natural company has responded with a range of business
flavor and fragrance ingredients, the initiatives and programs. Robertet also continued
company has expanded into new business segments, its work with Ginkgo Bioworks in order to deliver
including the health and beauty space. lactone products and is looking to grow in 2019
following emerging health and wellness trends.
a https://www.robertet.com/en/financial-information/figures-about-the-group/
Phillippe Maubert
Chairman and Global President
have shown strategic reconfigurations of their supply lifestyles to name a short few. For instance, con-
chains to offer better stability. From our perspective as sumers across the globe are concerned about their
a main reference in natural ingredients, we continue health and wellness but respond in varied behaviors
to invest in our global affiliates dedicated to specific across regions. Some regions see growth in “ancient
sourcings and our partner farms to continue to offer wisdom” and the traditional natural remedies of
unique natural raw materials as well as enhancing their ancestors while other regions may focus more
the supply positions of traditional raw materials. on healthy eating and weight loss products. What
Robertet’s long history and established position in is common across these differences is that natural
Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) will continue is perceived by a consumer as better-for-you, as
to guide our actions in those investments. evidenced by the clean label trend across F&F
Our work in cultured ingredients with our categories around the globe. With natural being a
partner, Boston-based Ginkgo Bioworks, has resulted key part of the DNA of Robertet, we are constantly
in the successful commercialization of products in harnessing our knowledge of natural products to
the lactone family. This joint achievement which bring healthy solutions to these wellness categories,
has opened a channel for new product development bringing value to our clients.
beyond our traditional sources.
While consumer demands are applying
What are some of the regional differences pressure to F&F companies for more transpar-
you’re seeing across F&F categories? Are you ency and sustainability, regulations are adding
seeing any common themes between these dif- an extra obstacle to the flavor and fragrance
ferences? If so, what are they and how is this industries. What role will regulations play in the
driving your business? future of the industry and how is your company
Differences in regional markets in F&F cat- responding to them?
egories can be driven by any number of factors, Transparency and sustainability are extremely
whether it is economical differences, regulatory/ important, even essential factors for the future
legality differences, or consumer preferences and of our industry. While regulations vary by region,
67
While natural disasters have impacted citrus and vanilla crops in the past, climate changes and global warming poses a direr challenge for flavor and fragrance
ingredient companies.
the main themes are indeed transparency and We have seen many ways in which the F&F
consumer safety. Regulation may seem like an industry has looked at utilizing technology across
obstacle, but we choose to view them as a protec- various parts of our business. Whether using
tion for our industry against lower quality products virtual reality (VR) to create more experiential
and long-term supply issues. These regulations demonstrations of smell and taste or using artificial
are just minor hurdles in a long list of challenges intelligence to help predict consumer behavior
that Robertet has had to successfully navigate through “big data” type analyses, companies have
through our continued leadership in the naturals worked to incorporate these technologies to benefit
industry to service our clients. We all know that their business. Just as in every other industry,
industry will be more regulated in the future and technology can help advance corporate objectives.
are actively engaged in our industry’s trade associa- However, if we envision a future where technol-
tions and research institutes at all levels. Consumer ogy is a given tool at every company’s disposal,
safety is a paramount objective as we proactively then the differentiation will always be the human
work to shape the regulations governing this part intelligence and ethos that directs and drives the
of our industry. technology towards a noble objective. No one can
contest that data collection and pattern analyses
Increasingly, the F&F industry has looked at are faster and more efficient because of technol-
digital advancements, like AI and VR, as ways to ogy, but we believe that true insight comes from
grow and improve its business. How have these human understanding and empathy—and for that
technologies inspired F&F and what role do there is no replacement. We are also seeing the tech
these technologies play in its future? industry come under fire for protecting the privacy
69
T. Hasegawa
Tokyo, Japan
2018 sales: ¥49.8 billion* / $451 million
Takao Umino
President and COO, T. Hasegawa Co., Ltd.
Tom Damiano
CEO, T. Hasegawa USA, Inc.
new market demands from an aging population responsibilities as a manufacturer to ensure cus-
and health-conscious consumers. Overseas strategy tomer satisfaction and loyalty. We proactively
focused on growing savory flavors and beverage monitor critical markets by working with our suppli-
flavors, while shifting away from synthetic ingredi- ers to gain market knowledge and continuously seek
ents to natural to respond to the heightened demand information from all sources including government,
for natural flavors. trade and research associations in order to build a
response to changes in market conditions. We aim
Since last year, what has T. Hasegawa done to for transparency throughout our supply chain and
maintain or raise its position on the leaderboard? share forecasts with our suppliers to better plan
What would you attribute to your success in 2018? material flow through contracted volumes and price,
Over the past year, T. Hasegawa has leveraged where possible.
additional partnership platforms and internal As the demand for natural ingredient transpar-
technological advancements to accelerate product ency increases, making sure the ingredients that
development so that we can meet the quick changing we’re using are both sustainably and ethically
consumer preferences beyond conventional products. sourced is paramount, however the pressure on
our team to use natural ingredients in our flavors is
Raw material shortages continue to challenge minimal given that we have been manufacturers of
the industry’s supply. What is the future of natural innovative natural flavors for over a century.
ingredients and how do you propose a more stable With customers responding favorably to prod-
supply chain for the future? How are synthetic ucts with natural flavors, we see that a barrier to
ingredients playing a role in this stability? purchase is usually paying a higher price for such
T. Hasegawa views delivering a stable supply of flavors. In overcoming this challenge, our custom-
products to customers as one of the most important ers must convince consumers of the value of the
71
improved, natural product, to justify the potentially in the interested country. We work with our custom-
higher price tag, or consider reformulating with ers to fulfill flavors that comply with demands. Over
synthetic flavors in which the supply chain can be the past century, T. Hasegawa has sold flavors for
optimized to allow price to be often less expensive. compliance in over 200 countries.
What are some the regional differences you’re Increasingly, the F&F industry has looked at
seeing across F&F categories? Are you seeing digital advancements, like AI and VR, as ways to
any common themes between these differences? grow and improve its business. How have these
If so, what are they and how is this driving your technologies inspired F&F and what role do
business? these technologies play in its future?
Middle Eastern and Mediterranean flavors are AI in the flavor industry has been more sophisti-
trending higher in popularity. We feel that the trend cated and functional leading to its use across various
to consume new international flavors will continue divisions including marketing and operations. In
as younger consumers are spearheading this appeal marketing we unlock data from algorithms that leads
to try new things. Innovation-inspired breakfast to stronger data which offers value for optimizing
options have trended more internationally such solutions to our customers and potential customers.
as chilaquiles and shakshouka which are creating In manufacturing, we use AI to assist in complex
diversity amongst breakfast flavors. decisions as well as automate tasks. We collect data
Consumers around the world use street food from sensors embedded in the processing equip-
markets as a way to try new flavors and you’re start- ment or other front-end inputs and able to monitor
ing to see that trend hit CPG companies taking street product quality issues. AI and blockchain are two
flavors straight to the shelves to attract consumer’s technologies that are catalyzing the pace of inno-
desire for authenticity. vation for future growth at T. Hasegawa. These
Lastly, we are seeing trends across regions of technologies will allow us to continue to achieve
blurred flavor profiles where innovation is winning results in scalability, security, privacy, conversational
out to allow bolder flavors meld with softer compan- platforms with our customers and continue to build
ion flavors giving us a unique twist of familiar flavors. our intellectual property platform.
There are many advancements in the digital
While consumer demands are applying space related to virtual reality and one that we are
pressure to F&F companies for more transpar- anticipating to be leading that charge for the flavor
ency and sustainability, regulations are adding industry is virtual reality’s effect on our percep-
an extra obstacle to the flavor and fragrance tions of food and investigating how smell and touch
industries. What role will regulations play in the could be added to VR to influence perception. There
future of the industry and how is your company is significant potential in the union of smell and
responding to them? VR, however technological improvements are still
Regulatory changes, product safety, and risk required and being developed.
analysis have been dominant topics within our Flavor industry influencers are expecting VR
regulatory team as we work with our customers and to become a game-changing advertising tool that
suppliers to build transparency. Being quick to adopt provides sensory experiences that are guided and
best practices in product safety and testing is vital to strategic messaging implanted into the program
our culture. to build nostalgic or new innovative techniques. T.
Risk management and adjusting processes to Hasegawa is currently exploring ways that we can
meet new regulatory challenges are currently key encompass these tools into future campaigns.
concerns for the industry. Our response is working
within our cross functional teams to fuel supply One of the biggest challenges in the 21st
chain initiatives that provide alternative solutions century is the threat of global warming and the
thereby providing our customers an organic certified ecological disasters associated with it. In terms
product that complies with new regulations well in of your own company, what specific initiatives
advance of regulatory deadlines. have you taken part to become more sustainable?
We continue to anticipate an increase in regula- T. Hasegawa USA, Inc. is committed to being a
tions and consumer driven third party certification leader in what it means to be a sustainable busi-
entities increasing the granularity of data needed ness within the flavor industry. Our ability to hold
by our customers. T. Hasegawa partners with our ourselves accountable to these standards positively
customers before or during exploration of a product impact the world through the choices we make
launch to research and determine the acceptability every day.
73
A
s the flavor and fragrance
industry braces for an
uncertain future with
increased global trade
tensions, rumblings of a
global economic downturn, stringent
regulations and shifting consumer
demands, many F&F companies are in
the midst of a transition. This is true
in the case of Huabao International
Holdings Limited.
In the opening comments of Huabao’s
2018 shareholder statement, Yiu said: “In
2018, the global economy and financial
markets were turbulent due to the rise
of trade protectionism, Brexit and risks
in emerging economies. In 2018, China’s economic customers and responded to the “Big Health” trend
growth rate reached 6.6%, the lowest growth rate in with the launch of sweet and scorch-type extracts
28 years. Against the backdrop of slowdown in the made from highland barley. On the fragrance side, its
macroeconomy, the group adhered to the strategy of personal care fragrance business recorded a single-
concentric diversification focusing on the taste-based digit increase in sales from 2017 numbers, due to
industry and successfully completed the strategic rising demand for shampoo and dye products.
adjustment of its business segment.” To adjust for the changes in the marketplace,
For the twelve months ending Dec. 31, 2018, the Huabao disposed of its VMR Products business,
company recorded revenue from its flavor and fra- which designed, produced and distributed elec-
grance totaling RMB 2,149 million, a slight decrease tronic cigarettes to Juul Labs for $31.3 million in
of about 1.7%. Additionally, the operating profit October 2018. Additionally, the company acquired
of the segment amounted to RMB 1,230 million, a foodservice company Jiahao Foodstuff in Sept. 2018,
slight decrease of approximately 1.8% from 2017 as a means to expand in the fast-growing Chinese
numbers. The stable operating profit was attributed foodservice market.
to the optimization of product mix, a revised market With the future in mind, Yiu said, in her 2018
strategy and development across new markets. shareholder statement: “With such [a] challeng-
In 2018, the company continued to focus on the ing macroeconomic environment, the Group will
stability and taste of its tobacco flavors by research- respond positively by consolidating its share in the
ing flavoring technologies, while also developing existing markets and identifying the problems and
non-combustible flavor products to meet the rising demands of customers and consumers while explor-
demand for e-cigarettes and electronic smoking ing potential new markets to help customers gain
devices globally. For its food and beverage flavors, success. Our management is of the view that with
Huabao maintained relationships with its domestic the advancement of structural shift, China’s economy
will progress amid stability and moves toward a
a http://huabao.todayir.com/attachment/2019032717020200033438659_en.pdf high-quality development path.”
(the financial results only account for Huabao’s flavor and fragrance business)
RECENT VIDEOS
RECENT PODCASTS
BY JUDITH MICHALSKI
Senior Flavorist, abelei flavors;
jmichalski@abelei.com
Organoleptic Evaluation Panelists
• Gerard Mosciano, Consulting Flavorist
• Deborah Barber, Senior Flavorist, FONA
• Cyndie Lipka, Master Flavorist, Prinova
• Tom Gibson, Director, Flavor Architect, Flavor First Flavors
• Robert Pan, Senior Flavor Chemist, T. Hasegawa USA Inc.
• Alpa Roman, Senior Flavorist, Flavor & Fragrance Specialties
• Bill Aslanides, Senior Flavorist, Synergy Flavors, Inc.
• Aparna Oak, Director of Flavor Innovation, Imbibe
Many thanks to Imbibe for generously hosting this session!
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articleisisstrictly
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76 Flavor Vol. 44 • July 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
77
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Xiamen Bestally Biotechnology Co., Ltd www.bestally.com.cn 11
Frankincense:
Scent of the Spirit Realm
Frankincense is a resin, but further, it is a binding of ritual and history: elastic in its
use and meaning, it has served in both religious and occult practices, rising and
falling with the hubris of mankind’s beliefs.
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.
DE1
A
heavy package arrives rust and once again resin: cloying, deep and warm
at my door, a present and notes of smoke and unmistakable frankincense
from my husband, who waft to my nose. I ride the fragrant wave away
knows I dearly love from Africa towards Europe, where I am heralded
surprises. I tear into it into a memory of Santa Maria Cathedral in Rome.
as I always do, making Its towering marble pillars support the Byzantine
my way through the tiled domed ceiling, ironically, I think, as they were
layers of onion skin pilfered from the ruins of Ancient Roman temples,
paper, each releasing a heady, dusty scent into
the air. When finally, I reach the center, I find an
African mask looking up at me; age coloring the
wood black, delicately carved birds swooping
along the contours of the cheek – an elegant beak
diving down the front, bisecting the abstract
features. And while the object itself is arresting,
beautiful and powerful in its own right, the scent
coming of it is equally compelling. I smell dust,
Varieties of frankincense are
smoke, delicate oils of aromatic wood, traces of found in Africa, India and the
herbs and the unmistakable heavy lingering resin.
It smells of frankincense and more…unknown saps Middle East (where it was
rendered into pastes and glazes: an aroma that
seems to reach out through time, telling the tale of
carried from Yemen along
sacred rituals, and magic throughout the eras. the incense trade road).
Turning this mask to peer at its underside, I see
rough-hewn carving marks that speak of the artist’s
unique touch. Here the scent is lighter, as resins do
not coat the surface as they do the front. Here is
the scent of wood, and something altogether more
human—a faint trace of the body—perhaps the echo where incense was burned to call forth the deities.
of the person who once wore the mask, perhaps the In Santa Maria, ornate braziers swing to and fro,
artist himself. releasing dragon puffs of incense along these ancient
I am reminded of a Minkisi power object in the columns, the faces of Isis and Osiris still visible in
Metropolitan Museum. This figure of the African the marble surfaces to the observant visitor. I’ve
Kongo tribe dates from the early 20th century, and is asked many times what secret ingredients are within
literally filled with sacred resins and magical matter. this incense, and always have been shooed away. Yet
Often anthropomorphic or zoomorphic, the hand on a recent visit, I found a kindly historian, who in a
carved Minkisi figures traditionally have a hollowed whispered voice told of the blend of myrrh, benzoin,
head or stomach, acting as the “spiritual focal point.” rosemary, and the ubiquitous frankincense, acting
Spiritually charged medicinal materials are placed as a fragrant intermediary between parishioners
inside these hollows, and sealed with resins, frank- and the divine. It was this unnamed historian who
incense among them. The medicinal core can vary, exclaimed excitedly, while gesturing to the smoke
though often it is associated with the dead, and thus creating a delicate haze within the large cathedral,
ingredients such as grave dirt, bone and clay will be “Imagine, this incense or something like it, was
used. Each Minkisi is adorned with varying materi- burned in the temples…and before that, in the
als: nails, hair, chicken blood, resin, shells, feathers, tombs of Egypt…we just borrowed it back.” Maybe, I
clothing and horn, depending on the owner’s needs. think now, it is an echo of paganism, and one which
The object is repeatedly used, its form added onto helped lead early Catholics to a place of worship
with more materials sealed with resin, rendering its with a familiar practice; the use of aromatic smoke
spiritual powers deeply personal.a to call forth the divine.
Turning my attention back to this remarkable gift This is the extraordinary nature of this resin
in my hands, I regard the mask, lift it, and release – marking time with its aroma. It is culturally
another cloud of scent. This time, dried flowers, immortal, and religiously significant. But the use
of frankincense within ritual goes much further
a https://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2015/kongo/blog/posts/materials-
back, and to understand it and its hold on a number
that-make-mangaaka of cultures, we must look to an ancient Egyptian
ruler, ritual burial practices and an expedition that Egyptian queen, Hatshepsut of New Kingdom who
changed the world. ruled from 1558-1085 BC. Hatshepsut was posted
as Queen Regent in place of her nephew, Thutmose
The Road to Frankincense III, who was too young to rule. As Thutmose III
was coming of age, The Queen walked amongst her
“I have led them on water and on land to explore
people dressed in the ceremonial beard and staff
the waters if inaccessible channels, and I have reached
of a Pharaoh, and claimed the gods had named her
the incense terraces” - Queen Hatshepsut 1558-1085 BC
Queen Pharaoh. Two decades of a fruitful, peaceful
Varieties of frankincense are found in Africa, rule under Queen Hatshepsut changed the face of
India and the Middle East (where it was carried from fragrance forever. Hatshepsut ordered expeditions
Yemen along the incense trade road). It is harvested to the Land of Punt, known today as Somalia, and
by making a deep incision in the bark of the tree, and Eastern Ethiopia, and exported an African species
five-inch pieces of bark are peeled away to allow the of frankincense trees (Boswellia papyrifera), to be
milky sap to be released. The sap must dry for three cultivated in her gardens of Amen-Ra.1 This species
weeks before setting, and harvested as frankincense is found today in Ethiopia, Eritrea and Sudan.
tears, the largest of these orbs full of essential oil. The expedition is beautifully carved in the walls
In the interest of this article, I will follow frankin- of her temple in Deir al-Bahari. Frankincense and
cense’s African path, and its allure for the ancient myrrh became an integral part of the Opening
DE3
of the Mouth burial ceremony, where the resins incenses and perfumes as pagan survival that had to
were burned to fumigate the body of the deceased be rejected if the soul was to be saved.”2
before being anointed with sacred aromatic oils and
wax-based unguents, containing both resins – thus “The perfumes of frankincense and myrrh that are
securing themselves within the ritualistic spiritual stilled burned in the great cathedrals of Latin Europe
realm of aromatics within this culture. Frankincense, make a heavenly scent, especially when they are
known as “perfume of the Gods,” was burned in inhaled along with the odor of beeswax candles and
large censors during a number of Egyptian cer- alter flowers. Incense was such heady stuff, that the
emonies accompanied by incantations to allow the early Christians hemmed and hawed before incorporat-
gods to inhale the aroma. The aromatic smoke was ing such pagan trappings into their rites, and it was
believed to create a protective pathway for the dead one of the first things banned by the reformers of the
to ascend to the spirit realm. sixteenth century.”
– Edwin T Morris, “Fragrance- The story of Perfume
Frankincense and Ritual from Cleopatra to Chanel”
It is this particular concept that has caught my
attention, and sent me running to the pages of
archeological histories and spell books recount-
ing the findings of delicate perfume vessels in the
tomb of Tutankhamen (1350 BC) containing frank-
incense-laden perfumes, the aroma still lingering.
In addition, I find myself surrounded by countless
European, 14-17th century magical grimoires, their
The spirit-summoning
pages etched with esoteric symbology, the invoking practices linked with
of spirits, and more than a few spells calling for the
use of frankincense in both oil and incense form. frankincense use found
Frankincense in our modern world has achieved the
balance Hatshepsut demanded of the material. It is
its way to America in the
perfume and incense, ritual and personal. It links mid-1800's, carring in the
these two concepts, and when worn on the body,
simply vibrates with history. belief and ritual of African
Perhaps it is this which so fascinates: that this
one particular resin has ridden the centuries within
slaves who were tethered
human ritual. Frankincense has been passed as to American soil, and thus
smoke along the swaddled bodies of Egyptian
mummies to render them more pleasing to the gods, in their enslavement,
and to clear the path to the underworld. In its oil
form, it has graced refined perfumes of the ancient
American religious beliefs.
world. It was employed in ancient Jewish temples
as the sole holy incense, and was said to burn in
the Temple of Babel, as well as ancient Greek and
Roman temples. Deemed too pagan, frankincense
fell out of favor with the advent of Christianity, “In one area of doctrine the Church seems to have
only to be pulled back into ritual use with the rise reached out and embraced a principal of perfumery
of Catholicism. At the same time, frankincense had somewhat reminiscent of the pagan world. This was
been employed in occult practices in Europe as seen in the theory of the odor of sanctity which could
in grimoires, and later in Hoodoo practices of the well have had its origins in the ancient belief that
19th century Southern slaves; who brought their if perfumes were indeed aspects of divinity, then
rituals with them from Africa, while binding their saintly individuals would at death give forth a sweet
magical work with the invoking of Christian saints. and pleasing odor.”3
Frankincense is a resin, but further, it is a binding
of ritual and history: elastic in its use and meaning, Frankincense and Magic
it has served in both religious and occult practices, The Grimoire Verum: A Handbook of Black
rising and falling with the hubris of mankind’s beliefs. Magic, is an 18th century book of occult spells
relayed from accounts of a 15th century work. With
“Averting their faces with horror from license and references to the much earlier Clavicula Salomonis
luxury, the pioneers of early Christianity condemned (Key of Solomon), the text concentrates on the
summoning of spirits and demons through a In yet another spirit conjuration within the
series of complicated, and often aromatic rituals. Grimoire Vernun, the rite calls once again for
Inevitably, ritual within these texts relies on fragrant frankincense to prepare the space for magical work,
elements to aid in the magical work, and this is “Before entering inside (your circle) it is necessary
where one sees a call for frankincense repeatedly. In to fumigate it with musk, amber, lingum aloes and
one invocation, the caster is instructed to create an frankincense. And for the incense needed for the
asperser, or bundle of “mint, marjoram and rose- invocations, that will only be frankincense.”5
mary tied with thread spun from a virgin girl under a Though thousands of years have passed since
waxing moon,” to be used as a tool for sprinkling of the tombs of Egypt were billowing with aromatic
charged water along with the following scents: “You smoke, and centuries since the initial publication
must use lignum aloe, frankincense, and mace… of the arcane Grimoire Verum, the spirit-sum-
over the scents recite the following oration, ‘God of moning practices linked with use of frankincense
Abraham, God of Isaac, God of Jacob, God of our found its way to America in the mid-1800’s, carried
fathers, blessed this paper and increase the power of in the belief and ritual of African slaves who were
these odors, so that they receive in them the virtue to tethered to American soil; and thus in their enslave-
attract the spirits that I will invoke’….Deign oh lord, ment, American religious beliefs. Hoodoo folk
to bless and to sanctify these scents, so that they are magic is of African origins, with blending of Native
a health-bringing remedy for us, bringing salvation American herbal lore and European folk magic;
to our bodies and spirits…”4 with texts like the Grimoire Verrum introduced to
DE5
the African community, and assimilated into their spices which rise with intoxicating delicacy, winding
folk magic practices.6 about the bright green notes. The fragrance promises
In Catherine Yronwode’s Hoodoo Herb and Root the repelling of negative energy and fostering protec-
Magic: A Materia Magica of African- American tion, and is sold exclusively at Catland Books in
Conjure, there is a particular ritual which calls for Bushwick Brooklyn, amidst ritual tools, spellbooks
frankincense in the summoning of a spirit. The spell and beautifully designed tarot cards
details the setting out a glass of water in which black Yet another perfume in which frankincense
salt has been dissolved—using it as a black mirror— is integral to the blend, is perfumer Mik Coyle’s
or scrying mirror. One is instructed to anoint a black “Vesper” of his Mikmoi fragrance line. This scent’s
candle “black arts oil,” light it, and burn a “large incense note wafts with heady abandon, lingering
amount of frankincense … on charcoal.” Once the with milky fig and green-tinted rose, a soft suede
spirit is called from within the water glass, it will note along with bittersweet lillet.
remain there to be questioned.7 The extraordinary story of frankincense continues
today. I have walked through mists of its aromatic
smoke on street corners in Manhattan, where the
frankincense tears, once regarded as precious as
gold, lie in unceremonious heaps upon a card
table. A veil of frankincense smoke still lingers in
the cathedrals of Europe, as well as esoteric magic
In modern magical ritual, shops in New York City, clinging to the hair and
clothes long after one’s visit. Its oils are in countless
frankincense is linked to the beauty products, promising youthful skin, and clarity
air element, and often used of complexion. Its compelling oil is in numerous
contemporary perfumes; scenting necks and wrists
to cleanse the ritual space. with its mysterious aroma, while whispering tales
of ancient ritual in its sillage. In our own way, we
celebrate the power of this resin as the ancients once
did. It is woven into the fabric of our culture, its long
winding history vibrating in its everyday use as we
In modern magical ritual, frankincense is linked embrace its sacred, cultural history and carry it into
to the air element, and often used to cleanse the a modern era.
ritual space – its aromatic smoke calling forth the
otherworldy realms, aiding in inducing visions, References:
and offering spiritual protection. Its oil anoints
ritual objects, or is added to others oils and organic 1. Edwin T Morris, “Fragrance- The story of Perfume from
Cleopatra to Chanel” (1984) Charles Scribner’s Sons P.
materials to fortify spell work. We see the resonance
of historical ritual within the modern, as well as the 2. Maple, E. The Magic of Perfume (1973)The Aquarian P.
resin’s revival in the use in beauty and fragrance in
3. Maple, E. The Magic of Perfume (1973)The Aquarian P.
our modern world.
A key ingredient in perfumer Maria McElroy’s 4. Peterson, J. H /Grimorium Verum : A Handbook of Black
beauty elixir, Camellia Face Oil, is frankincense. Magic ( 2007/ 1700s/1500’s) Createspace P.
Frankincense, she reveals, encourages new skin cell 5. Peterson, J. H /Grimorium Verum : A Handbook of Black
growth, healing scars and balancing complexion. Magic ( 2007/ 1700s/1500’s) Createspace P
In her fragrance of the same name, frankincense
6. Yronwode, C. “ Hoodoo Herb and Root Magic : A Materia
is paired with all natural oils of camellia, rose, Magica of African- American Conjure: Traditional Formulary
Moroccan jasmine, gardenia and neroli, with the Giving the Spiritul Uses of Natural herbs, Roots, Minerals, and
frankincense lifting as a whisper of incense within Zoological Curious” (2002) The Lucky Mojo Curio Co.
the mélange of delicate flowers.
7. Yronwode, C. “ Hoodoo Herb and Root Magic : A Materia
Asc Alchemical’s truly spellbinding fragrance, Magica of African- American Conjure: Traditional Formulary
Sephirot, embraces historical ritual practices by Giving the Spiritul Uses of Natural herbs, Roots, Minerals, and
blending frankincense with woods, verbena and Zoological Curious” (2002) The Lucky Mojo Curio Co.
Here is a partial listing of our Family of Gums and Resins utilized in many formulations.
For detailed paperwork on all of our items consult our web site at www.pentamfg.com
For a complete list of all our natural, natural identical and synthetic ingredients
visit us at our www.pentamfg.com
50 Okner Parkway, Livingston, New Jersey 07039-1604 Phone: (973) 740-2300 Fax: (973) 740-1839
E-Mail: sales@pentamfg.com Web: www.pentamfg.com