Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
SURNAME: BOLOFO
NAME: MAMELLO
STUDENT NUMBER: 217292380
SUBJECTS: APPLIED SCIENCE
DEPARTMENT: ENGENEERING
COURSE: DIPLOMA CLOTHING & TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY
LECTURERS: DR MOYO
DUE DATE: 04/10/19
I, Mamello Bolofo, 217292380, understand that plagiarism is wrong because it is pretending that
someone else’s work is my own. I declare that this assignment, is my own work. Where I have
used the thoughts, ideas, words and intellectual property of others, I have acknowledged them
by citing and referencing them according to the Harvard System of Referencing. I have not
copied any section of this work. I will not allow another person to copy our work or pass it off as
his or her own. This assignment has not previously been submitted for academic examination.
Signed: M Bolofo Date: 5/10/19
Mamello Bolofo 217292380
Table of Contents
Introduction ............................................................................................................................................ 3
Importance of textile testing .................................................................................................................. 3
Reasons for textile testing ...................................................................................................................... 3
Fiber identification .................................................................................................................................. 4
Introduction ........................................................................................................................................ 4
Methods .............................................................................................................................................. 4
Data and Sample ................................................................................................................................. 5
Results and Discussions ...................................................................................................................... 5
Conclusion ........................................................................................................................................... 5
Fabric structure and Count ..................................................................................................................... 6
Introduction ........................................................................................................................................ 6
Methods .............................................................................................................................................. 6
Results and Discussions ...................................................................................................................... 7
Conclusion ........................................................................................................................................... 8
Linear density of a yarn removed from the fabric .................................................................................. 8
Introduction ........................................................................................................................................ 8
Methods .............................................................................................................................................. 8
Data and Sample ................................................................................................................................. 9
Results and discussion ........................................................................................................................ 9
Conclusion ......................................................................................................................................... 10
Area weight ........................................................................................................................................... 10
Introduction ...................................................................................................................................... 10
Method ............................................................................................................................................. 10
Data and Sample ............................................................................................................................... 11
Results and discussion ...................................................................................................................... 11
Conclusion. ........................................................................................................................................ 12
Fabric dimensional stability .................................................................................................................. 12
Introduction ...................................................................................................................................... 12
Methods ............................................................................................................................................ 12
Data and Sample ............................................................................................................................... 13
Results and discussions ..................................................................................................................... 14
Conclusion ......................................................................................................................................... 14
Tensile strength .................................................................................................................................... 14
Introduction ...................................................................................................................................... 14
Method ............................................................................................................................................. 15
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Data/Sample ..................................................................................................................................... 15
Results and Discussion ...................................................................................................................... 16
Conclusion ......................................................................................................................................... 17
Seam Slippage ....................................................................................................................................... 17
Introduction ...................................................................................................................................... 17
Methods ............................................................................................................................................ 17
Data/Sample ..................................................................................................................................... 18
Results and Discussion ...................................................................................................................... 19
Conclusion ......................................................................................................................................... 19
Colour Fastness to Rubbing or Crocking ............................................................................................... 20
Introduction ...................................................................................................................................... 20
Methods ............................................................................................................................................ 20
Date/Sample ..................................................................................................................................... 20
Results and Discussions .................................................................................................................... 21
Conclusion ......................................................................................................................................... 22
Colour Fastness to washing .................................................................................................................. 22
Introduction ...................................................................................................................................... 22
Methods ............................................................................................................................................ 22
Data/Sample ..................................................................................................................................... 23
Results and discussions ..................................................................................................................... 24
Conclusion ......................................................................................................................................... 24
List of references................................................................................................................................... 25
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Introduction
Textile fabrics are manufactured for many different end uses, each of which has
different performance requirements. The chemical and physical structures of textile
fabric determine how it will perform, and whether it is suitable for a particular use.
Fabric testing plays a key role in determining product quality, ensuring regulatory
compliance and assessing the performance of textile materials.
Testing of textiles refers to numerous procedures for assessing countless fibre, yarn
and fabric characteristics such as fibre strength and fineness, yarn linear density and
twist and fabric weight, thickness, strength, abrasion resistance, colour fastness,
wrinkle resistance, stiffness and many more. Testing of textiles involves the use of
techniques, tools, instruments and machines in the laboratory for the evaluation of
the properties of the textiles (Grover and Hamby, 1960).
The main reasons for testing of textiles are control of product, control of raw
materials, process control and analytical information. Testing is actually a two-way
process, in which the incoming raw materials that will be needed to manufacture the
company’s products will be analysed to ensure that they meet the specifications.
That is, any manufacturing problems will be minimized while also ensuring that the
textile item made will not result in problems for the customers.
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Fiber identification
Introduction
Fibre identification is the process of determining fibre composition in various tests
method according to the standard. The knowledge of identifying the textile fibres
helps a producer of garments to identify the type of fibre and the care to be taken in
maintaining the fabrics made of a particular type of fibre. This is an important factor
for labelling of the garments, which includes specifying the fibre content in the
garment.
The aim of this report is to identify fibre identification of a fabric to be used in product
development. There are three basic testing methods namely: burning, chemical
solubility and the microscopic tests. The most reliable test is chemical test as it gives
an accurate and reliable results. Non-technical tests can be used which includes the
feeling test and the burning test. Chemical and microscopic test are regarded as
technical test.
Methods
Standard method that was used is Use ASTM D276- 12 standard test
method for identification of fibres in textiles.
For burning test, hold a piece of a fabric with a tweezer or stage clip and
burn it. Carefully observe the reactions and characteristics whilst burning
and record all the results.
Two string (warp and weft) of fibre are pulled from the fabric used and
placed on the stage of the microscopy. Under 40 magnifications.
Put one eye on the eyepiece to observe the characteristics of the fibre and
record all observation.
For chemical test, a piece of fabric is placed in a prepared chemical at a
known concentration and temperature for a specific period of time.
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Observations recorded during the burning test are as follows. The fibres ignited
rapidly leaving soft grey ash with an odour of a burning paper. These characteristics
shows that the fibre is cellulosic more or less cotton. But to make sure that the fibre
is really cotton chemical and microscopic tests are also conducted.
Under microscope the fibre showed a convoluted longitudinal structure. The fibre
was then dissolved in sulphuric acid which gave 100% assurance that the fabric is
made up from cotton yarns.
Conclusion
The knowledge of identifying the textiles fibres helps a producer of garments to
identify the type of fibre and the care to be taken I maintaining the fabrics made of
particular type of fibre. It is important that more than one test in identifying the fibre is
conducted. Burning test is regarded unreliable as many fibres specifically manmade
fibres would have or possess the same characteristics in flame. Chemical test is the
most reliable test that gives 100% accurate results when conducted carefully.
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Methods
The standard method that was used is SANS 7211-2:1984/ISO 7211-
2:1984 standard test method determination of number of threads per unit
length.
Take sample fabric and lay it out on a flat surface (table) and smoothen it
out.
Take a pierce glass.
Place the Pick glass on the fabric parallel to warp.
Count warps (length-wise) yarns per inch.
Count weft (cross-wise) yarns per inch.
Record all findings and calculate average.
Calculate the number of Warp and Weft threads per centimetre or inch
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= 47/2.54
= 19 per cm
= 66/2.54
= 26 per cm
The test was conducted according to ASTM standard and based on 100% cotton.
An average gives an exact measurement of yarns per inch and it is converted into
inches per centimetres. There is a slight difference in number of warps and wefts
calculated 5 times. There is 19 count difference between weft count and warp count.
This clearly shows that the fabric is not balanced. The fabric is not tightly woven and
is light.
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Conclusion
Warp count is necessary to determine how tight or loose is the fabric construction. It
helps determine whether the fabric is balanced or not. the count of yarns differs
accordingly throughout the fabric thus it is important to count more than 3 times in
different areas. The results must be presented in inches per centimetre.
Methods
The standard method that was used was SANS 7211-5: 7211-5: 1984
Standard test method determining linear density of yarn removed from
fabric
Unravel 60 strands of warp and weft
Prepare 3 sets of strands of 10 cm length from both weft and warp the
strand Measure the three sets of both warp and yarn using a ruler making
sure that they are 10cm.
Weigh the sets of three strands of both warp and weft separately
Then calculate the average for both warp and weft.
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=0.0318g x 1000
= 31.8 tex
= 32 tex
Weft yarn
=0.0279g x 1000
= 27.9 tex
= 28 tex
To calculate tex one need an average of the measure strands of both warp and weft
yarns, and multiply it by 1000 to convert grams into tex. Weight of warp yarns is
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different to that of weft yarns. The main difference is 4 (32-28). Direct system of
denoting density was used. Direct method is based on measuring the weight per unit
area of a yarn.
Conclusion
The density of any material is defined as its weight per unit volume. The aim of the
report was to determine the linear density for both weft and warp yarns. The sizes for
both yarns are not the same, weft yarns were more as indicated in table 1. Results
indicate that there are more warp insertions than weft yarns.
Area weight
Introduction
Fabric weigh is one of the most important factors to know and understand when
buying fabrics. The determination of fabric weight gives an idea on how light or
heavy is the fabric. This is to make sure that the fabric bought will accommodate the
end use results required from the fabric. The main aim of this report is to identify the
fabric weight of the given fabric with its purpose that is to determine how light or
heavy is the fabric by analysing results. The first part to discuss it the materials, then
the data/sample and lastly the results and discussions.
Method
Prior to testing specimen are required to be conditioned, this is to make sure that the
specimen is in good condition to be tested and give accurate results. It is advised
that more than two or more operators perform the same test or the same test must
be done more than once by the same operator. This is to eliminate any errors that
may occur during testing.
Five specimen were cut and measured using the following procedures.
Cut five specimens form the fabric (100% cotton) with a dial cutter.
The specimen must be cut from different areas of the fabric
Weigh all five specimens on a weighing scale
Record all findings and interpret the results
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An average of 5 specimen came to 1.870g/m square. these results shows that the
fabric is light and suitable for summer wear. The results are in favour of the intended
purpose of the fabric because it is bought to make summer wear.
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Conclusion.
Aim of this report was to check the consistency of fabric in terms of weight. Mass per
unit area is very important in the clothing industry as it is used to determine how thin
or thick the fabric is. This test is done to make it is for buyers in apparel when
choosing fabrics for garment that are suitable for specific weather conditions. The
tested fabric results show that it is suitable for summer and winter weathers.
Aim of this report is to discuss fabric dimensional stability of 100% cotton. The first
part of this report is to list apparatus, methods used, provide sample of the fabric,
and discuss results. Tailored garments are expected to have an immaculate
appearance and to retain that appearance through wear and the cleaning processes
which cohere with. In this report dimensional stability to washing is discussed.
Methods
standard method used is SANS 960:2005 (textiles dimensional stability during
washing and drying procedures.
Place the stability template on top of the fabric and mark the necessary points with
permanent marker.
Let the fabric dry for 24 hours and measure the fabric again and record all the
findings.
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Warp
Before washing the sample was measured 35cm warp, and after washing and drying
it measured 35.1cm. This means that the sample increased in size by 0.3%.
Weft
Before washing the sample measured 35cm on the weft direction and after washing
and drying it measured 34.5cm. This means that the fabric decreased in size by
0.5cm on the weft direction. Percentage shrinkage is 1.4%.
These results show that the fabric is not 100% stable. If it can shrink or increase in
size after just one wash, it will be bad for mass production whereby garment will be
washed more than once.
Conclusion
Sample is made 3 pairs of marks along the warp and weft direction. The space of
marks should be not less than 35cm; marks from the edge of cloth should be not less
than 50cm. When necessary, sample of 25cm*250cm can be used, and 3 pairs of
marks are made on the sample in the length and width direction, each pair of whose
space is 20cm. The tested fabric is not so stable. The fabric must be cold wash to
prevent shrinkage and it must not be tumble dried. It must be hand washed.
Tensile strength
Introduction
Strength is one of the tensile properties of the textile materials, comprising their
resistance to stretching or pulling forces. Tensile strength is defined as a stress,
which is measured as force per unit area. Maximum load that a material can support
without fracture when being stretched, divided by the original cross - sectional area
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of the material. Acceptable levels of tensile properties depend on the end use for
which the textile was produced.
Aim of this report is to measure tensile properties of the fabric using constant rate of
traverse tensometer. Force is expressed in units of length, time, and mass. The
fabric sample should be conditioned to moisture equilibrium as directed by the
standard (ASTM D1776).
Method
1. Use ASTM D5035-11 (2015) Standard test method for Breaking Force and
Elongation of Textile Fabrics (strip method) to prepare test specimen.
2. Prepare 5 weft and 5 warp specimen for the dry sample test. Cut the width to
60mm and fray to 50mm. Cut the length to 300mm.
3. Set the jaw-separation on the Titan Tensometer machine to 200mm.
4. Print out the results for analysis.
Data/Sample
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Conclusion
The aim of this test was determining the resistance of a material to breaking under
tension. Based on the results fabric strength differs in different areas of the fabric.
Tensile testing machine is provided by means to indicate or record the force applied
to the test specimen in strength to break. The result showed that the fabric for weft it
extended to 52.20 % and for the warp it extended to 14.05%. This shows that there
is a difference in extension of the warp and weft.
Seam Slippage
Introduction
seam slippage is the pulling away or separation of the fabric at the seam, causing
gaps or holes to develop. It is also a fabric problem especially fabrics that contain
slippery yarns or that have an open structure. It involves warp and weft threads
pulling apart meaning weft and warp interlacing is low. It is often seen that the fabric
is in good condition but seam failure make this fabric unusable. There are a number
of causes of seam failure but some of them are, yarns making up the fabric are
broken or damaged by needle during sewing, seam slippage occurs.
Warp slippage is defined as warp yarns slipping over weft yarns, where the warp
yarns are at right angles to the direction of pull. Weft slippage is defined as weft
yarns slipping over warp yarn in which weft yarns are at right angles to the direction
of pull. The aim of this report is to determine the slippage resistance of yarns when
apart using maximum force. The report will begin with method used when testing
colourfastness to dry cleaning. Finally, the results obtained during the test with
sample of the test will be provided.
Methods
Standard method (ASTM D1683/D1683M-11a, standard method for
determination of seam slippage).
First measure the thickness and the length of the template.
Indicate warp and weft yarn of the fabric.
cut speciman using the seam slippage template for both warp and weft.
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Fold each specimen face inwards 110mm from one end and parallel to the
threads of the 100mm side. Make a lockstitch seam at a distance of 20mm
from the fold line.
Draw a guideline 38mm from and parallel to one of the long edges of each
test specimen to enable the jaws to be aligned on the same threads in the
seamed and the unseamed test specimen during testing.
Set the clamps of the tensile testing machine to give a constant rate of jaw
separation of (100mm)mm then Clamp the unseamed test specimen in the
jaw ensuring that the seam is midway between and parallel to the jaws and
one has to do this three times for the warp and weft directions.
For warp slippage prepare five specimen each 100 mm wide in the warp
direction and 400 mm long in the weft direction.
For weft yarns prepare three specimens each 100 mm wide in the weft
direction and 400 mm long in the warp direction.
Fold each specimen 110 mm from one end and parallel to the threads of the
100 mm side (face to face).
Make a lockstitch seam at a distance of 20mm from the fold line.
Cut each seamed specimen 12 mm from the sewn seam line cuttin through
both layers of the fabric. The seam allowance shall be the same on each side
of the cut.
Data/Sample
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Seam slippage is a test used to determine the strength of the seam in a 100%
cotton. When test was conducted, warp was done over weft which warp over weft
and weft over warp. This means that the warp direction is used as the weft and the
weft direction as the warp but this is only done only for seam slippage. The warp
over weft direction did not meet the conformation standard of 200.00N, as the results
warp results show a mean of 63.70N at 200N for warp over weft. Weft over warp did
meet the conformation of the standard as the mean average is 192 at 200N. Mean
average must at least be above 200. The results show that weft over warp is
stronger than warp over weft. The results mean that the fabric seam will actually
withstand forces that the fabric seams will exposed to.
Results show that weft insertion is stronger than warp insertion. The report was also
to determine which one is stronger between seamed and un-seamed specimen.
Results showed that the unseamed specimen is actually stronger than the seamed,
this is determined by the time it took to break the specimen. For seamed it took
about 8.6 seconds and unseamed took 15.8
Conclusion
The aim of this report was to determine the strength of seam or the seam slippage of
the specimen. Since the fabric did not really break easily this means the seam or the
actual fabric is durable. Seam slippage usually occurs when the stitch depth is very
tight or the type of thread that is used is thin or thicker than the fabric used, this also
depends on the seam strength. The seams of the fabric used conforms to the
standard because the seam opening is 6mm for bot warp and weft.
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Methods
Standard method (SANS 105-X12:2006/ISO 105-X12:2002, Textiles-Tests for
colour fastness Part X12: Colour fastness to rubbing.
Cut the specimen using the 9x25 template.
Take the specimen put it on the crocking machine and clamp it.
Set crock metre to zero
Wind crock metre up to 20 and remove the specimen
Clamp the cotton piece wet and dry on the upper level of the crocking
machine.
Turn the lever 10 times to rub the wet or dry cloth against the fabric.
Let the wet fabric to dry out, in order to observe the results on the grey scale.
Analyse the results.
Date/Sample
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After the test has been carried out, the tested rubbing cloth should be evaluated
against the grey scale under decent light source. For both dry and wet crock cloths,
rating was 4/5 in a grey scale. These results means that the fabric does not crock or
bleed. This means the fabric can be worn with different colours it will not really bleed
or crock. There was no difference between both wet and dry, which means the fabric
stain the same when dry or wet.
This fabric can be recommended for bulk production because it exceeds the
minimum requirements of the standard which is 4, this is because the rating came to
4/5.
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Conclusion
No one wants to have a garment that get stained by another garment. This is why
colour fastness to crocking is important in manufacturing industry. The colour
fastness to crocking is categorised from 1 to 5. The higher the number, the better the
fastness. The tested fabric did meet the minimum requirements by the standard.
The aim of this report is to assess the amount or the degree of fading and staining of
dyed goods for washing of a textile material. Temperature for washing ranges
depending on the type standard method used. Multi strip must be used to determine
the degree of staining in different fabric. First part to discuss are the apparatus to be
used, methods, data and samples, results and discussions and lastly the conclusion.
Methods
Standard method (SANS 105-C10:2007/ISO 105-C10:2006/SANS 1166:2010,
Colour fastness to washing with soap or soap and soda).
Cut the fabric by 10cm-10cm
A specimen (Lab-dip) in contact with specified adjacent fabric or fabric
laundered, rinsed and dried.
The specimen sample is treated under appropriate condition in a chemical
bath for 30 minutes.
After 30 minutes take out the sample and dry it.
The abrasive action is accomplished by the use of liquor ratio and an
appropriate number of steel ball.
The change in colour of the specimen (Dyed sample) and the staining of the
adjacent fabric is assessed by recommend Grey Scales (1-5).
Discuss the results.
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Data/Sample
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Table 1 are the results or rating of the sample against other fabrics in a multi strip. All
ratings were 4/5 which means the fabric or sample does meet the minimum
requirements of the standard which is 4. This means the fabric can be machine
washed with unlike colours, but to avoid any complications the fabric must be cold
washed.
Conclusion
Colour fastness to washing means, a specimen of the textile, in contact with 6
adjacent fabrics, is mechanically agitated under described conditions of time and
temperature in a soap solution, then rinsed and dried. The change in colour of the
specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric are assessed with the grey scales.
The tested material did not washout, which means it can be washed with like
colours.
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List of references
Shen, Y. (2017). Comparisons and Evaluation of Test Methods for Fuzzing and
Pilling Resistance. Retrieved from Testex:
http://www.testextextile.com/comparisons-and-evaluation-of-test-methods-for-
fuzzing-and-pilling-resistance/
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